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Unit N2 (038): Provide manicure services

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Introduction to manicure

Many practical skills are required in order to perform manicure services. During your course you will also learn about the tools, cosmetic preparations used, hygiene, sterilisation, health and safety, client consultation, nail types, nail shapes, contra-indications, contra-actions, aftercare and home care advice and the anatomy and physiology that relates to the hands and nails.

These treatments are very popular, cost effective and require little space so are ideal in hairdressing salons, nail and beauty salons, tanning salons, mobile, large retail stores etc. These treatments are the best way for people to care for their natural nails. Our hands are constantly on show and well-groomed nails can finish an outfit off.

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Standards and reputation

• Standards are high in the industry so you must remain professional and courteous at all times. The nail technician can chat with the client during these treatments but remember to keep the conversation appropriate and not too personal. The nail technician should put any personal problems they may have aside. Make sure you are also concentrating on the treatment and work methodically; never cut corners. If a client is happy with a treatment they will tell one or two people but if a client is dissatisfied with a treatment they will tell on average ten people. A bad reputation is difficult to shake off!

• Sometimes clients may confide in the nail technician. It is vital that you do not offer an opinion or advice as this may backfire on you. You must try to remain neutral and be as tactful as possible..

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Punctuality and increasing revenue

• Punctuality is important and you must try to make sure that you don’t cancel clients’ appointments, for example through illness, if possible.

• Nail art can also be applied to the natural nails, which can help to bring in extra revenue. Retailing products and courses of treatments is also another way of raising your income.

• At the moment this can all seems like a daunting task but with time and practice it will become second nature.

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Manicure equipment

• Two bowls: one for clean cotton wool and one for jewellery

• Manicure bowl

• Bin: this should have a bin liner and a lid

• Nail clippers

• Nail files

• Towel

• Disposable covering

• Cotton wool

• Orange sticks

• Cuticle knife

• Cuticle nippers

• Nail buffer

• Nail brush

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Manicure productsProduct Properties Ingredients Effect on nail

plate/cuticleCOSHHRegulations

Enamel Carries the colour

Film former: nitrocellulose and resinSolvent: ethyl acetate butyl acetate Plasticisers: isopropyl myristate

Can stain if base coat not usedHas a drying effect

Nitro-cellulose is highly flammable

Base coat

Added protection to nail plate

Resins, higher%nitrocellulose, fewer plasticisers than enamel (gives harder coat), no pigments

Helps lacquer to adhere to nail plate

Highly flammable

Top coat

Protects nail enamel

Higher % of nitro-cellulose and plasticisers, less resin than enamel

Dries harder and quicker, gives greater resistance to chipping, extra gloss for shine, not needed on peal enamel

Highly flammable

Ridge filler

Disguises grooves in nail plate

All the above, plus fibres to make a thicker product

Gives smoother base to lacquer

Highly flammable

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Manicure products continuedNail polish remover

Removes nail enamel Acetoneethyl, butyl acetateglycerol (humectant)mineral oil

Dissolves enamelCounteracts drying effect if glycerol present

Highly flammable

Cuticle remover

Loosens and releases the cuticle

2.5% solution of potassium hydroxide or sodium hydroxide plus glycerine

If left on will dry nails and surrounding tissue

Caustic substance: alkali

Cuticle cream Softens cuticle so easier to push back

Oil in water mixture May contain bees wax, lanolin, cocoa butter, liquid paraffin

Helps to prevent brittle nails and dry cuticles

None

Buffing paste Reduces ridges, provides smooth base for varnish

Talc, kaolin stannic oxide Abrasive, gives a shine to nails if varnish is not worn

None

Nail hardenersandstrengtheners

Hardens weak nail Plastic coating under base coat or built in to base coat

Aluminium potassium sulphateformaldehyde, resins

Glycerol is added to the lotion to reduce drying of nail plate

Potential sensitizer

White pencil Reduces staining on free edge sometimes in form of pencil

Titanium dioxidewhite soft paraffin

Gives a natural healthy look to nail

None

Enamel quick dry

Speeds up drying time Mineral oils, silicone, natural oils, alcohol

Gives slip conditions cuticle speeds up drying process

Flammable

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Disinfection and sterilisation

Methods of disinfection

•Wash buffer in hot soapy water and place in ultraviolet (UV) cabinet

•Emery boards: a new one can be used for each client to prevent risk of cross infection, however disinfectant/sanitising spray can be used and then place it in UV cabinet

•Orange sticks can be washed and disinfected in UV cabinet

•Hoof stick: wash in hot soapy water and place in UV cabinet

•Manicure bowl: wash in hot soapy water and place in UV cabinet or wash in hot soapy water and spray with disinfectant spray

•Disinfect hands using an anti-bacterial hand wash or gel

Methods of sterilisation

•Metal cuticle knife and nippers: pre-wash and then sterilise in autoclave or chemical sterilising solution

•Tools only need to be sterilised if there is any contact with blood in line with the HABIA Codes of Practice

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Example of manicure desk set up

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Manicure procedure

1) Check the tools have been correctly disinfected

2) Check personal appearance and hygiene

3) Check workstation is set up neatly and correctly

4) Client consultation, assess the hands and check for contra-indications and record the findings along with client’s details on the record card

5) Wash your hands

6) Remove client’s jewellery

7) Cleanse client’s hands with sanitiser

8) Remove any traces of old nail enamel by using a cotton wool pad soaked in remover. Begin on the thumb, then onto the little finger and work along to the index finger. Hold the pad against the client’s enamel for a few seconds, this helps to dissolve the enamel and makes it easier to remove. Use the ‘squeak’ method to complete the removal. If there are any signs of stubborn enamel perhaps around the cuticle area this can be removed by using a cotton wool tipped orange stick, dipped in remover and gently worked around the area.

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Manicure procedure continued

If you are trying to remove a darkly coloured enamel remove the bulk of the colour and then use a fresh pad to clean off any residue.

Even if the client has no enamel on, still wipe the nails over with the remover to further cleanse the nails.

9) Assess the hands and nails and check for any contra-indications. Touch the nails along the surface by running your finger down the nail and check strength and flexibility by very gently squeezing them along the sidewalls and free edge. This will help you determine the nail type. Ask the client how they care for the nails and make a note of any extra information you may have gained.

10) Start working on the ‘working hand’, file nails from the thumb, then to little finger and working to index finger. Hold the emery board or shaping file at one end and file at a 30° angle to the nail plate by gently stroking the file across the nail plate in one direction. Finish the filling by beveling down the free edge to smooth the nail using either the smooth side of the emery board or finishing file. Never file the corners of the nail away as helps provide the nails with strength.

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Manicure procedure continued

11) Use an orange stick to take a small amount of cuticle massage cream out of the tub and replace the lid. Apply a small amount of cuticle massage cream to each finger and massage into cuticles using your thumbs in a circular motion. This will help to soften the cuticles and prepare them for further treatment. It will also increase the blood supply to the nail plate and bed thus bringing nutrients and oxygen to the area.

12) Soak working hand in the manicure bowl filled with warm soapy water. Do not overfill the manicure bowl otherwise the water will spill out, and check the water is not too hot.

13) Repeat steps 9-12 on non-working hand.

14) Remove first hand from soak, dry it thoroughly. As you do this gently push back cuticles using the towel and your thumbs in a circular motion. Soak non-working hand.

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Manicure procedure continued

15) Check the free edge of working hand by carefully running the orange stick under it. This will bring any loose bits of free edge to the surface and clean away any debris. Re-file to neaten the edge by using the smooth side of the emery board or finishing file.

16) Apply cuticle remover to the base of the nail plate by using the cotton wool tipped orange stick dipped into the bottle. If you need more product after you have touched the nail plate change the cotton wool so as not to cross-infect or contaminate the product.

This product will loosen any excess cuticle that has overgrown onto the nail plate, which can inhibit the growth of the nail. Be careful you don’t get any product onto the surrounding skin as it could burn it. Also check if your client has sensitive skin as this product can be an irritant. Once the product has been applied to all the nail plates on the hand, again starting at the thumb, use small gentle circles with the cotton wool tipped orange stick on the rounded end or hoof stick to push back the cuticles. This will help to ease and remove excess cuticle and dead skin from the nail plate.

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Manicure procedure continued

17) Very carefully use cuticle knife to remove excess skin adhering to the nail plate. Ensure the knife is damp at all times and it should be used flat to the nail plate working inwards with light pressure so as not to damage the nail plate.

18) Use cuticle nippers to remove any excess skin around the nail plate but NOT the eponychium. Only remove any excess on the nail plate. Work carefully using small movements. If the eponychium was completely clipped away the matrix could be left open to infection and it can encourage the cuticle to grow back thicker.

Rinse the hands to remove excess cuticle remover from the nail plate.

19) Apply a small amount of buffing paste by dipping the cotton wool tipped orange stick into the paste and apply to the nail plate. Gently buff the nails to shine using a gentle downward stroking action using about three strokes per nail. Incorrect or over-buffing can lead to separation of the layers of the nail plate.

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Manicure procedure continued

20) Repeat steps 14-19 on non-working hand.

21) Apply massage cream to the working hand and arm, remembering to warm the cream in your hands first. Commence with hand massage procedure on first hand. This should be slow and rhythmical. Ensure the client’s elbow is resting on the manicure station and the forearm is supported on the hand rest.

22) De-grease the nail plate by using the enamel remover and cotton wool. This is very important, as the nail enamel may not adhere to the nail plate.

23) Next base coat is used. Check the top is securely on the bottle and turn it upside down and roll it between your hands to mix it up. Open the product and wipe the back of the brush to remove excess product. Apply the base coat to the nail plate by starting in the center and allowing the product to spread a little. Push the product down towards the cuticle, being careful no to flood it then gently drag the brush towards the free edge using 4-5 strokes of the brush on the thumb then moving on to the little finger where 3-4 strokes can be used. Apply the product to the edge of the free edge using the side of the brush.

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Manicure procedure continued

24) Repeat steps 21 and 23.

25) The client may replace jewellery at this point. This is also a good time for the client to pay for the treatment and purchase any retail products.

26) Apply two coats of nail enamel and one topcoat in the same manner as described in step 23 (some product ranges use a separate fast finisher to dry the nails at this point).

27) ASK THE CLIENT TO SIT DOWN AND ALLOW THE NAILS TO DRY FOR AT LEAST 10 MINUTES BEFORE LEAVING.

28) Give aftercare and home care advice.

29) Rebook appointment if appropriate.

30) ALWAYS check that the nails are dry before the client leaves (some products may only be ‘touch dry’ after 10 mins, but not dent proof).

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Example of a hand and arm massage

1) Effleurage from finger tips to elbow. (3 times)

2) Zig zags on back of hand (gently). (3 times)

3) Thumb kneading on wrist. (3 times)

4) Thumb kneading from wrist to elbow. (3 times)

5) Finger twists. (3 times)

6) Finger rotation (make sure the joint is supported as the rotations are completed). (3 times)

7) Thumb kneading to palm. (3 times)

8) Wrist rotation (left and right circles making sure the joint is supported throughout). (3 times)

9) Effleurage (as in step 1) (3 times)

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Any questions?