undiscovered patagonia binational circuit (english - lo res)

w w w . u n d i s c o v e r e d p a t a g o n i a . c o m

Escape the ordinary, journeying a Patagonia, still undiscovered.

Written and Illustrated by Dr. Trace Gale

Bi-national Circuit Capitan Prat Province of Aysén, Chile & Santa Cruz Province of

Argentina

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GUIDE TO AN UNDISCOVERED PATAGONIA

Undiscovered Patagonia was created by Patagonians.

It is a collection of hundreds of stories, places, legends, knowledge, and flavors. A resource and personal guide that provides the tools and context

for an amazing journey. We invite you to leave behind the increasingly frenetic pace of modern-day life. Discover a place where slowing down

permits the discovery of marvelous, unexpected experiences.

Funding for this project was provided from the Aysén Regional Government (GORE) Innovation Fund, program N˚30108949-0. No part of this book may be reproduced in any form, or by any electronic, mechanical, or other means, without permission in writing from the publisher. The project was developed under the leadership of the Research Center for the Ecosystems of Patagonia (CIEP). Valuable support was provided by the professional tourism organizations within the Capitan Prat Province of Aysén, Chile, and the Santa Cruz Province of Argentina, as well as from the Aysén, Chile, Regional Offices of the National Tourism Service (SERNATUR), the Aysén Territorial Integration Program of the National Economic Agency of Chile (PTI - CORFO), and the National Forestry Corporation (CONAF).

This book was written and illustrated by Dr. Trace Gale, a Resident Investigator in the Department of Sustainable Tourism of CIEP, [email protected]. Trace is a native of the United States of America. She adopted the Aysén Region of Chile as her home more than a decade ago. Her work centers on helping local destinations tell the world their unique and special stories through Sustainable Destination Development and Management. Her leadership and vision are reflected by both the printed and web-based outcomes of this project. The Spanish version of the text was translated and edited by Anabel Reis, [email protected]. Born in France, the Aysén Region is also her adopted home. Anabel moved to the Region to assist with

Territorial Integration and Productive Tourism Development. After building successful programs with CORFO, she joined the CIEP family and is now the Coordinator of the Sustainable Tourism Department and the Manager of the Center.

Content was informed by the results of visitor studies, which examined the motivations, experiences, doubts, and desires, of three test groups of travelers who planned and traversed the circuit in late 2011 and early 2012, during the investigation phase of the project. Special thanks to the University of Montana in Bozeman, USA and the early contributions of Dr. Keith Bosak and his students. Numerous and invaluable chapter contributions were provided by Chilean Travel Writer and Photographer, Evelyn Pfeiffer. Creative assistance was provided by Patrick McGarry of West Virginia University, Morgantown, USA; Cristian Solis, owner of GeoSur Expediciones, a regional tourism provider, and Rodrigo Merino, a project manager within CIEP. Technical guidance and editing were provided by the Guide’s School of Patagonia, Ian Farmer, Lee Gale, Lilli Schindele, and Hernan Velásquez.

Design, baseline maps, logos, and development support were provided by SURDIGITAL Ltda., This local Service Provider also provided the developed the on-line platform which complements this text. Photographic credits are attributed under each photo in the text.

© 2012, Centro de Investigación en Ecosistemas de la Patagonia (CIEP). All rights reserved. Published by the Centro de Investigación en Ecosistemas de la Patagonia (Research Center for the Ecosystems of

Patagonia) - CIEP, Ignacio Serrano 509, Coyhaique, Chile. www.ciep.cl.

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GUIDE TO AN UNDISCOVERED PATAGONIATable of contentsGuide to an Undiscovered Patagonia

4 Introduction

• A note to prospective visitors.• How to Use this Guide.

• The Route of the Circuit.• Map of the Undiscovered Patagonia Circuit.

11 Chapter 1: Planning for Safe Travels.

29 Service Directory Before & After the Circuit.

37 Chapter 2: Meander within the Patagonia Grasslands (188.5 Km).

• Section 1A: Cochrane - Patagonia Park Visitor Center (28.2 Km).• Section 1B: Patagonia Park Visitor Center - Casa de Piedra Camping Area (26 Km).

• Section 1C: Casa de Piedra Camping Area - Chilean Military Post (32.7 Km).• Section 1D: Chilean Military Post - Ghio Lake & Suyai Estancia Sector (33.3 Km).

• Section 1E: Ghio Lake & Suyai Estancia Sector - Bajo Caracoles (68.3 Km).

98 Service directory for Stage 1.

113 Chapter 3: Follow the Sun through Austral Steppe (605 Km).

• Section 2A: Bajo Caracoles - Crossing RN 40, RP35, RP37, Las Horquetas Sector (101 Km).• Section 2B: RN 40, RP35, RP37, Las Horquetas Sector - Gobernador Gregores (117 Km).

• Section 2C: Gobernador Gregores - Crossing RP27, RN288 (115 Km).• Section 2D: Crossing RP27, RN288 - Tres Lagos (148 Km).

• Section 2E: Tres Lagos - El Chaltén (122 Km).

150 Service directory for Stage 2.

171 Chapter 4: Traverse the Andes to the Ice Fields (123.5 Km).

• Section 3A: El Chaltén - Northern Shore of Laguna/Lago del Desierto (44.6 Km).• Section 3B: Northern Shore of Laguna/Lago del Desierto - Candelario Mansilla (20.5 Km).

• Section 3C: Boat travel, Candelario Mansilla - Villa O’Higgins (58.4 Km).

207 Service Directory for Stage 3.

219 Chapter 5: Dwell within Glaciers, Fiords, and Rivers (274.7 Km).

• Section 4A: Villa O’Higgins – Camp Pioneer (43.1 Km).• Section 4B: Camp Pioneer – Puerto Bravo Dock at Mitchell Fiord (55.2 Km).

• Section 4C: Puerto Bravo Dock at Mitchell Fiord - Caleta Tortel (51.4 Km).• Section 4D: Caleta Tortel - Los Ñadis Sector (80.7 Km).

• Section 4E: Los Ñadis Sector – Cochrane (44.3 Km).

272 Service Directory for Stage 4.

285 Topic Index.

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INTRODUCTION

A note to prospective visitors.

This Circuit invites you to escape the ordinary, meandering and exploring a Patagonia, still undiscovered.

Patagonia. Majestic mountains, glaciers, crystal clear waters, ancient forests, and immense Grasslands that stretch as far as the eye can see. Pacific fiords filled with thousands of unexplored islands, dominated by rainforests and wildlife. Landscapes and weather that refuse to be tamed.

Local villages, full of stories, music, art, and the daily life of peoples who are forging a connection with these remote and isolated landscapes; a connection that depends on their love of a place and the ability to be self-dependent, resourceful and above all, patient.

Within the following pages and our website, you’ll find information and tools to help you plan a unique journey through the small towns and natural areas of Patagonia, which form the Undiscovered Patagonia circuit. We share ways to explore and meet people, learn about what life is like here, navigate your way through our trails, waters, and back roads, and truly immerse yourself in this incredible region we call home.

The Undiscovered Patagonian Circuit is constantly growing and evolving, in keeping with Patagonia herself. To keep up with the changes, we need your support. If you’ve ever tried to plan a trip to Patagonia, you know that accurate and reliable information is hard to find! That’s because until this project, the amazing experiences that

comprise this Circuit had never been formally compiled in a clear manner so that they could be shared in guidebooks or websites. And every day, the small businesses involved in this Circuit are thinking about ways to improve their experiences and offer new services. So, being a new circuit in an area of the world that it only recently opening its doors to tourism, we know that a lot of information will change between the printing of this first edition and the next.

Our commitment is to keep the on-line tools at www.undiscoveredpatagonia.com, updated and as complete as possible. So, as you plan and travel, be sure to check for new content and news.

And after your trip. Our wish is for you to leave Patagonia with new friends, great memories and tons of pictures and videos! Start a blog and join our on-line communities in Twitter, Facebook, You-Tube, and our own platform, www.undiscoveredpatagonia.com. Your contributions help us improve our data and recommendations, complementing their content with your expert advice on what you like and what we need to improve. So please, tell us and other travelers, about your amazing experiences and adventures!

Thanks for visiting us and sharing our Undiscovered Patagonia!

Chilean flamingo (phoenicopterus chilensis). Evelyn Pfeiffer

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INTRODUCTION

How to Use this Guide.

This guide is divided in five main chapters. At the beginning of each you will find a complete list of the content,

which is divided into short, easy-to-read articles.

Chapter 1 helps you get ready for your adventure. It provides advice to help you plan a safe and relaxing trip, guiding you through the selection of your transportation and preparing you to explore the remote areas of the Circuit.

Chapters 2-5 provide the tools to create your unique adventure. The Undiscovered Patagonia Circuit is divided between four main Stages. Each Stage is comprised of various Sections, eighteen in total. These can be biked or driven in a single day. Each Chapter focuses on one of the four main Stages of the Undiscovered Patagonia Circuit, detailing the route and adventures. First, you’ll find a brief summary of the Stage and its Sections; along with maps for the route. Then, you will find a series of short articles, providing all the details for “must-see” adventures and experiences within the Chapter’s Stage.

Arranging your tourism services. There is a comprehensive Tourism Service Directory at the end of each Chapter. This will help you arrange and reserve your travels. We provide listings for Banking Services, General Tourism Information, Safety and Health Care Providers, Postal Services, Transportation Providers and Services, Lodging, Gastronomy and Activities. Chapter 1 provides the details for the Services you’ll need Before and After the Circuit. The final pages of each of the remaining Chapters provide geographically relevant Directories for each of the 4 Stages, and 18 Sections. These Directories are an important tool that will enable

you to match the articles and activities of each Chapter with the companies and organizations that can support your journey.

This is your guide! YOU play the fundamental role. Pick and choose between the articles that grab your interest. They will help you plan a personal itinerary, tailored to your style, time, budget, and dreams. We’ve left you plenty of places to jot down notes and new discoveries. Sketch in the margins. Write a review for Trip Advisor. Whatever suits your style.

Understanding the Symbols and Tools: There are a number of symbols, abbreviations and tools within the guide. For example, we refer to Kilometers using Km, and Meters with m. We have included the scientific names for native flora and fauna, in parentheses and italic fonts, after their common names in the text. Currency is described in Chilean Pesos (CLP), Argentinean Pesos (AR) , and at times, US Dollars (USD). The prices are offered as references and are often not precise. Confirm final rates and payment terms, at the time of reservation.

Within the Service Directory Sections, you will find common abbreviations including “f/ which we have used as a shortened form of for”, “baths for bathrooms”, “& for and”, etc.

If you can’t find what you are looking for, within the listings of articles, check the Subject Index at the end of the book.

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INTRODUCTION

The Route of the Undiscovered Patagonia Circuit.

The Undiscovered Patagonia Circuit is divided between four main Stages. Each Stage is comprised of various Sections, eighteen in total. These can be biked or driven in a single day. Our recommendations

for traveling the circuit are based on the feedback and stories we have received from visitors, describing their incredible experiences.

The Route of the Undiscovered Circuit. The Undiscovered Patagonia Circuit is comprised of approximately 1,190 Km, an amazing exploration along the highways and back roads of the most pristine and remote sectors of Patagonia; the Capitan Prat Province in Chile and the Santa Cruz Province in Argentina. The circuit is organized around four Stages, based on the prevailing ecosystems each crosses: 1) The Patagonian Grasslands, 2) the Austral Steppe, 3) the Andes, to the Southern Ice Field, and 4) an endless array of Glaciers, Fiords, and Rivers.

The Circuit begins in the town of Cochrane, Chile. When you arrive in town you will find many opportunities to relax and enjoy your new surroundings. When you have taken them in, you will be ready to set out and discover. The first Stage, Meander within the Patagonian Grasslands (188.5 Km), winds through the Patagonia Grasslands of the Chacabuco Valley, a cool temperate Grassland ecosystem which provides the transition from the lush deciduous forests that border the fiords and the cool arid

desert Steppe in Argentina. There are a total of five Sections within this Stage. The second stage, Follow the Sun through the Austral Steppe (603 Km), takes you deep within the sun-filled, arid desert Steppe of Argentina, traveling through the Santa Cruz Province from Bajo Caracoles to El Chaltén, including hikes in Los Glaciares National Park. Again, Stage 2 features five Sections. The third stage, Traverse the Andes to the Ice Fields (123.5 Km), is the shortest of the four stages; with only three Sections. However, for most, this Stage offers the biggest adventure, with a back country Border Crossing that offer you choices of combining biking, hiking, boat rides, 4x4s, horses and a spectacular grand finale visit to the O’Higgins Glacier, originating in the Southern Patagonian Ice Field. The final stage invites you to slow down a bit and Dwell within Glaciers, Fiords and Rivers (274.7 Km), as you leisurely make your way back to the starting point. Within its final five Sections, you will traverse high mountain passes, hanging glaciers, the fiords of the Pacific, lush native forests and raging rivers.

Evelyn Pfeiffer

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Each of the Sections of the Stages were based on the kilometers that can be traveled by bicycle in one day. If you are traveling in a motorized vehicle, you may be tempted to combine Sections, covering several in one day. This approach is absolutely feasible; however, if your time allows, we encourage you to travel slowly, uncovering the secrets and treasures of each Section at a pace that allows you the time to relax. Side of road camping is still quite common in Patagonia; thus, while many are not within formalized Campgrounds, each Section ends in a place where you can camp.

We have talked to a number of travelers who have explored the Circuit. They note many advantages in starting from Cochrane and crossing the Patagonia Grasslands toward the Argentinean Steppe. First, as Cochrane provides you valuable options for final logistics and supplies. Then, after crossing east, you will travel south through Argentina’s vast desert-like landscape, with the wind at your back. Mid-way through, you’ll be able to pamper yourself, taking time to fully enjoy the city of El Chaltén, with its incredible views of Mt. Fitz Roy, numerous trails, and groovy outdoor scene. Finally, travelers tell us they love returning to Chile to “slow down” and finish their trip immersed in the greens and blues of the ancient forests, glaciers, fjords and rivers that comprise the final Stage.

Of course, there are no hard-fast rules! Follow your spirit and meander through the Circuit in the way you prefer. Join or skip Stages and Sections, depending on the time you have available, your budget, and your modes of transportation. The only rule is that you travel in the direction that best suits your dreams.

Getting Here. To get to Cochrane, Chile, the recommended start point for the circuit, you can fly into Balmaceda Airport (BBA), Chile, traveling nationally, from the cities of Santiago and Puerto Montt. From the airport, you can rent a car (4x4s are suggested) or hop a transfer and head into

Coyhaique, the Regional capital (58 Km). In Coyhaique, you can arrange transportation for your adventure; there are bike rental outfitters, bus terminals, and several local guiding services which provide full-service, including transportation and coordination of all your logistics (recommended).

You’ll travel 345 Km south, along the Carretera Austral (Route 7), through amazing landscapes and small towns, which offer interesting side excursions along the route. These include, in order of passing, Cerro Castillo, home of the Cerro Castillo National Reserve, Puerto Tranquilo, home of the Capillas de Marmol and gateway to the Exploradores Glacier and San Rafael Lagoon National Park, and Puerto Bertrand, origin of the Baker River. Arriving in Cochrane, you will find a variety of welcoming options for accommodation, food, and adventure.

If you prefer to start the Circuit in Argentina, the routes will depend on where you start. From the north, follow National Route 40 and Begin the circuit at the start of the Second Stage, in Bajo Caracoles. From the Atlantic coast or El Calafate, head to El Chaltén, where you can join the Circuit at the end of Stage 2, in Section 2E.

When to Come? The best months are November through April, if your dream includes completing the entire Circuit, including Stage 3, which crosses the Frontier between Argentina and Chile in the back-country. The rest of the Circuit can be visited whenever your time allows!

We hope that after your trip, you’ll also share stories, experiences and lessons, so that we can constantly improve the information we provide and the quality of our services.

¡Buen viaje!

INTRODUCTION

Map of the Undiscovered Patagonia Circuit.

Patrick McGarry

CHAPTER 1

PLANNING FOR SAFE TRAVELS

PRE & POST CONSIDERATIONS UNDISCOVERED PATAGONIA CIRCUIT

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GUIDE TO AN UNDISCOVERED PATAGONIALIST OF ARTICLESCHAPTER 1: Planning for Safe Travels.

13 The fundamental philosophy for travel in Patagonia? Self-sufficiency.

15 Consideration, prevention and management of risk and accidents during your trip.

17 Driving the roads of Patagonia on your own.

20 Bike touring along Patagonia roads.

22 How to travel the Undiscovered Patagonia Circuit using Public Transportation.

24 Communication and medical services.

27 Thinking of traveling with a pet?

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CHAPTER 1: Planning for Safe Travels.

The fundamental philosophy for travel in Patagonia? Self-sufficiency.

The Undiscovered Patagonia Circuit travels through remote areas of Patagonia where the services and infrastructure are basic. It is important to

adopt a self-sufficient philosophy to ensure a fun, comfortable and secure experience. Planning and preparation are key factors. The steps include:1) developing knowledge of the route and the activities you will be doing, and

2) preparing yourself, your equipment and your protocols ahead of time.

Having the right knowledge is important for a self-sufficient trip. At least one person in your group should have training in:

• Basic mechanics for the types of transportation that you are going to use, e.g.,changing tires, or chains, using jumper cables, and checking oil and water levels.

• Basic survival skills required for obtaining safe shelter, fire, and water, as well as orientation techniques.

• First aid knowledge, including identification of life threatening conditions, like hemorrhages, hypothermia, heat stroke, asphyxia, anaphylaxis, etc, and the capacity to treat common discomforts like minor cuts, mosquito bites, foot blisters, sun burns, among others.

What if your group doesn’t have the expertise? We suggest using a professional guide or transport/logistic service to assist your travels and provide the specialized knowledge that will let you concentrate on the fun!

Proper equipment and tools are important when a problem arises. We recommend that you prepare kits to assist your problem solving. Kit contents will differ from group to group, according to your specific plans and means of transport.

Examples of the contents for a Spare Parts Kit:

• For motorized vehicles: a Jack for changing tires, lug wrench, spare tire, fire extinguisher, air pump, 20 L spare fuel tank, jumper cables, spark-plugs,

Patrick McGarry

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fuses, and tools to change them, motor oil, set of warning triangles, regular and slip-joint pliers, flat and Phillips-head screwdrivers, flashlight and batteries, socket-wrench set, sizes 9 - 24, water container, duct tape and thin wire.

• For bicycles: 2 inner tubes for each bike and wheel size, a spare tire for each bike and wheel size, patch kit and glue, spare chain, full set of ball bearings, full set of cables, spokes, chain rivets, wrench set according to sizes, chain breaker, regular pliers and slip-joint pliers, adjustable spanner and Allen key set, straps to secure the luggage, bolt, screw-bolt and screws, oil and WD-40, duct tape and thin wire, pump, flashlight and batteries, and brake pads.

Examples of the contents for a Survival Kit: A a plastic tarp, spare sleeping bag, container for collecting water, spare sleeping pad, lighter and matches, spare tent, flashlight and batteries, spare portable stove, 15 m (50’) cord, spare pot, white gas, food supply for a complete day for the group, pocket-knife, duct tape, and large plastic trash bags.

Examples of the contents for a First-Aid Kit:

Biosecurity & Personal Protection Materials: Disposable gloves, plastic bags, lighter or matches, note pad and pencil, flashlight and batteries, wet hand-wipes, first-aid manual, rounded scissors or Swiss army knife.

Cleaning Materials: Clean water (preferably sterile and distilled), liquid soap, sterile sponges, and gauze bandages. It also may come in handy to have tweezers to remove stones or superficial thorns from injuries.

Treatment Material: Povidone iodine (liquid or foam), silver sulfadine cream and furazolidone, sterile gauze bandages, compresses, (2 to 3 cm wide) and micropore, adhesive bandages, cotton applicator.

Protection and Immobilization Materials: Elastic, rigid and triangular bandages to immobilize specific areas, such as the neck or an arm. Immobilizing materials can also be improvised, utilizing sleeping pads, pencils, tools, paper rolls, etc.

Other: Any prescription medications taken by travelers in your group, common medicines for head-aches, fever, colds, flu and diarrhea, after-sun lotion for sun burns, re hydration salts or ionized water for dehydration, moleskin for blisters, note paper and a pen, and duct tape.

Patrick McGarry

NOTES

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Consideration, prevention and management of risk and

accidents during your trip.

Remote and wilderness area travel requires a positive attitude towards unexpected situations, good adaptation skills and improvisation. This article will help you understand and prepare for the risks that could

arise when traveling through the Undiscovered Patagonia Circuit.

Patagonia is CHALLENGING! Weather here is complicated; constantly changing - in fact, as we always say, prepare to experience all four seasons in one day! The roads are in rough shape, communication (phones and Internet) is hit or miss, and you will likely encounter more local wildlife than people. The Undiscovered Patagonia Circuit passes through remote areas, far from cities, mechanical services, fuel supplies, and medical assistance. Infrastructure development is basic; both along the route and within population centers. These challenges provide opportunities for unique and rewarding experiences, in which you will interact directly with the dramatic landscapes of Patagonia, and perhaps, learn a tip or two from her rugged, self-sufficient inhabitants.

In fact, all adventures in natural and remote places involve risks; which, often result in unexpected changes to your travel itinerary or route. Some of these risks can lead to accidents; at times, with serious consequences. It is important to understand these risks and accept the responsibility to manage them during your travels. The following paragraphs present three fundamental terms related with risk planning and management. We suggest you incorporate these terms and concepts into your trip planning - with the goal of helping you have a safe and amazing trip!

The first term you need to understand is danger. Dangers are the conditions and circumstances within an environment that increase the possibility of harm. There are two types of dangers;

objective dangers, which are attributed to nature, e.g., frozen roads, and anthropic or subjective dangers, which are attributed to individuals, e.g., speeding on frozen roads. It is important to be informed and prepared before traveling in Patagonia.

The second term to learn about is Risk. Risk occurs when objective and subjective dangers are present simultaneously, creating the possibility of an event that causes harm to people, equipment, or the environment. Risks can be anticipated and managed through planning and prevention. After identifying the dangers associated with your travel plans, you should analyze the risks they present and develop a plan for prevention and management of the risks, during your trip.

Patrick McGarry

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When a problem occurs and it is not possible to continue your activities without taking a series of actions, this is considered an incident, the third fundamental term.

It is important to gauge the severity of an incident so that you can determine the appropriate and necessary response. Minor accidents may require the treatment of wounds or minor injuries, mechanical repairs, help or advice, but, in a minor accident, urgent medical attention is NOT required, as the severity of harm does not represent a danger to the life or physical integrity of individuals. When an accident is serious, it is not possible to continue travel activities without taking a series of immediate actions; that require professional assistance. Serious accidents include all medical conditions which put peoples’ health and well-being at risk, if professional assistance is not obtained. The following situations, while not life-threatening , are also considered to be serious accidents: 1) Loss of documents (passport, money, ID, birth certificate, driver’s license, insurance policy); 2) vehicle damage that is beyond local repair (flipped vehicles, frame damage,,

mechanical damage, etc.); 3) Loss of essential equipment (medicines, bicycle); or being arrested.

Please consider these concepts and possibilities in your planning. Your preparations should incorporate protocols for how to obtain professional assistance along the route and what to do if assistance is not available. Also, it is important to purchase adequate medical and emergency evacuation insurance.

Your safe travel plans do not need to be complicated or constrictive; just effective.

All travels within remote and wilderness areas require a positive attitude towards unexpected situations, the ability to adapt, and good improvisation skills. When problems arise, the best resources and tools are often available nearby, along the road. No one knows this better than the professional guides and drivers available to support your travels. Beside lightening your load, they provide specialized knowledge of the dangers and risks present in Patagonia and experience with incident response and management.

Before you leave home it is important to make a travel plan and provide copies to friends and authorities, detailing:

• Your itinerary. This should include the dates and locations along your planned route, accommodations, and activities. Communicate any revisions to “those in the know” about your travels.

• Participant personal data list. This should include full names, birth dates, passport or ID numbers, permanent addresses, medical conditions, and insurance data.

• Equipment & technical skills of the group. This includes knowledge and certification in first aid, back-country skills, information about who will do the driving, specialized equipment, like Satellite phones, etc.

Patrick McGarry

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Driving the roads of Patagonia on your own.

There are three main ways of exploring the Undiscovered Patagonia Circuit; driving your own or a rental vehicle, bike

touring, and public transport. Here we present some important considerations for driving the roads of Patagonia, on your own.

Driving the dirt roads of Patagonia requires you to take some general precautions and to drive slower and more carefully. The surface of dirt and gravel roads is not stationary; conditions change constantly. Small stones can build up, forming an unstable surface in which speeding vehicles can skid. Rain can form large puddles; for which, depth is impossible to discern. Bumpy roads can produce vibrations resulting in a loss of control of the vehicle. Give yourself time to stop, rest, and enjoy your adventure.

Services along the route are limited. Fuel supply is essential and must be considered before setting out. As a general rule, fill up with fuel whenever possible. Food supplies are also limited. We recommend that you travel with enough provisions for a complete day, taking advantage of opportunities to resupply, when you are in bigger towns.

Travel times are always longer than expected. Estimate that you will have an average speed of between 45-70 Km/h (30-45 mph) for dirt roads. Plan your itinerary according to this speed. Be prepared for delays due to road maintenance activities, detours or closures. In many sections, road signs are infrequent.

Depending on the time of year and weather conditions you encounter, it is very likely that you will need to be prepared for driving in snow and ice. We strongly suggest driving a 4x4 vehicle equipped with chains and other equipment for driving in these types of situations.

You'll also want to watch out for wildlife. It’s very probable that you will round a corner and find yourself face to face with cattle, sheep and horses. It’s just as likely that you will encounter huemul (hippocamelus bisulcus), guanaco (lama

Cody Stekley

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guanicoe), a band of ñandú (pterocnemia pennata) or maybe even a pudú (pudu puda). Always be prepared for these surprises by driving defensively. If you run into cattle blocking the road, stop, beep your horn and wait for them to pass. The same is true with horses. If gauchos are moving livestock, stop and allow them to control the movement of the herd. If you encounter wildlife, stop and observe. Please do not harass them or beep your horn. These animals are part of the natural heritage of Patagonia and it’s up to all of us to protect and care for them. It is especially probable that you will encounter wildlife in the following sectors:

• Just outside Cochrane, on the northern side of town, CH

• The Rio Bravo Sector near Mitchell Fiord, CH

• The Mountainous Pass on the way to Yungay, CH

• The Caiquenes Lagoon Sector (Road to Yungay), CH

• The El Vagabundo Sector (Road to Caleta Tortel), CH

• Route 40, AR• Valley Chacabuco, CH• The crossing area between Lagoon/

Lake del Desierto and Candelario Mansilla, AR/CH.

Before travel, check that your vehicle is equipped with a functional jack, a lug nut wrench or wheel nut wrench, a spare wheel, and a fire extinguisher. Consider the distances between the places you want to visit. Carry extra food and fuel.. Before leaving, ask about route problems at the Police Posts. Make sure that equipment is properly covered, tied and secured, e.g., bikes, kayaks, luggage, and especially, hazardous materials. To minimize bouncing and discomfort, do not over-inflate your tires when driving on gravel roads.

During travel: always drive with the lights of your vehicle illuminated. Keep a good distance from the vehicle in front of you to avoid loose rocks, which may break your windshield or mirrors. Be cautious about the sides of the roads, gorges are

very frequent. Sometimes, it is helpful to drive in the center of the road since it is more solid; however, always remain in the proper lane on uphill slopes, curves, and other areas where you do not have good visibility. Be a defensive driver. Pass only in straight stretches with enough space and good visibility. Always signal to announce your maneuver. If another vehicle is about to pass you, give way; slow down and give as much space as you can.

In the event of mechanical problems or minor accidents in Patagonia, you can normally flag down the first passing vehicle and they will give assistance. It is important to know your position in relation to help. Consider whether is it more efficient to go ahead or backtrack. Make sure that the position of your vehicle does not represent a danger for other travelers. Use warning triangles. If you need to change a tire, secure the vehicle with rocks or logs around the other tires to be sure it remains stationary. Make sure the jack is stable. If you run out of fuel, you can often buy it from other drivers, farmers and Estancias, or work crews in the route. It is unlikely they will approach you and offer fuel so, approach them and ask. If you require a wrecker or assistance, remember

Keith Bosak

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that services are limited and take time to arrive. You will need to decide whether to stay with your vehicle or leave it and go for help. Factors to consider include the severity of the situation, weather conditions, your supplies and the spirit of the group, in relation to the distance and the likely wait time for assistance. In the event of an accident, you are legally required to file a police report (Constancia) in the nearest Police Post. This is also a requirement of insurance claims.

In the event of a serious accident,

implement the plans and protocols you developed prior to your travels. Make sure you have a plan and protocol for the management of serious accidents. If other options are not available, you can often communicate with professional services via UHF radio. Many rural homes and farms are equipped with UHF radios that can help. It is important to know the exact location of your vehicle. Look for road signs indicating the closest kilometer number, bridge names, etc, and if you have a GPS, take a reading. Note as many geographic references as possible to help assistance services find you.

Evelyn Pfeiffer

NOTES

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Bike touring along Patagonia roads.

There are three ways of moving through the Undiscovered Patagonia circuit: traveling in private motorized vehicles, bike touring, and public transport.

Each offers distinct advantages and disadvantages along with special safety considerations. In this article, we’ll talk a bit about biking through Patagonia.

One of the popular options for traveling through Patagonia and the Undiscovered Patagonia Circuit is bike touring. There are service providers in both Argentina and Chile to support your trip with information, rental equipment, maintenance and repairs. You can even arrange for logistical support who can travel with you, providing assistance and breaks along the way.

Safe bike touring on dirt roads requires some practice. The surface of dirt roads is constantly changing, Small stones may build up, forming an unstable surface in which speeding vehicles and your bicycle can skid. Rain can form large puddles whose depth is impossible to discern. Bumpy roads can produce vibrations resulting in a loss of control of vehicles and

bikes. Services along the route are limited. In most communities, you will only find the most basic services. Food supplies are also limited. Carry enough provisions for at least one or two complete days. Travel times are always longer than expected and can vary due to climate, road conditions, events, how you are feeling, mechanical issues, etc. Wind is a particularly important variable. Your itinerary must allow for the flexibility of these factors.

When traveling by bicycle it is very important to always remember to ride defensively. In Patagonia, there are no bike lanes for cyclists and the sides of the road are narrow to non-existent. The roads are always full of adventure and surprise. You might encounter dust, rain, wind, blind curves, animals in the road, large trucks, vehicles who drive in the center of the road, etc. Maximize the chances that other drivers will see you by wearing reflective clothing, installing little flags, and using flashing front headlights and reflectors. Always keep to your right and be prepared to get off the road to avoid collisions. On hills and in curved areas, it is important to always be visible from both directions. Keep alert for livestock which often escape their fencing and can behave unexpectedly. You are also likely to encounter wildlife, including guanaco (lama guanicoe), huemul (hippocamelus bisulcus), and ñandú (pterocnemia pennata).

We suggest that you completely take apart and reassemble your bicycle, yourself, before the trip, (even if it is rented). This is the best way to familiarize yourself with the parts and assembly and to prepare for dealing with problems in the route. Also, there are

Evelyn Pfeiffer

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few places to buy spare parts or repair your bicycle during your travels. Therefore, we recommended to bring specialized parts with you.

Before traveling, check your bicycle, especially the chain, bearings, brakes and tires. Make sure that your luggage is covered and secured in the pannier or cart. Wear high visibility clothing and reflective gear on your bicycle. Wear suitable clothing, for the weather conditions and the physical effort. Eat and drink sufficiently, before setting out. Pack high-energy foods and enough water or liquids in a place that is easily accessible. Plan your travel day around your distance goals and the places you wish to visit. Apply sunblock.

During travel, drink and eat enough and frequently. Use sunblock regularly. Use a helmet. Keep to your right. Be prepared to get off the road to avoid collisions. In curved areas and on ascents, it is particularly important to always be visible from both directions of the road. Downhill, especially in bumpy roads, keep a low speed to avoid losing control of your bicycle. Sometimes it is better to walk. Be aware of animals in the road. Check your luggage regularly.

In the event of mechanical problems or minor accidents: Make

sure that your position does not represent a danger for yourself or other travelers. When you repair your bike it is advisable to look for shade or shelter from the wind, sun, and other elements. Make yourself comfortable and enjoy the experience, as an opportunity to relax. In the event of an accident with another vehicle, animal or person, you must file a police report (Constancia) in the nearest Police Post. This is a legal requirement and a document you will need for insurance claims.

If you need help, you can usually flag down the first passing vehicle. If you do not have mobile phone reception or a satellite phone, you can often communicate by radio. Many rural homes and farms are equipped with UHF radios that are able to contact assistance sources. If you need assistance, are leaving equipment or will need to return, it is important to know the exact location. Take a GPS reading and note any traffic signs indicating kilometer numbers, bridge names, etc. Take down as many references as possible to help assistance services to find you.

In the event of a serious accident, activate your emergency protocol. Before traveling make sure you have a plan and protocol for the management of serious accidents.

Cody Stekley

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How to travel the Undiscovered Patagonia Circuit using Public Transportation.

You can use public buses, transfers and ferries, to travel the route of the Undiscovered Patagonia Circuit. In fact, for the crossings of the Mitchell Fiord

and O’Higgins Lake, it is the only option. Public transportation has its advantages, disadvantages and special considerations. This article provides guidance and tips.

If public transportation is your choice, be prepared for the realities of the experience. When setting your expectations, it is important to remember, the main objective of public transport is not tourism, but transportation. Moreover, public transportation options in Patagonia are very limited; and often are operating at full capacity, filled by residents, tourists and workers. Unless your schedule allows several weeks for travel, the constraints of public transportation schedules can be a frustration. Be prepared to make sacrifices in order to synchronize activities and plans with the schedules between companies and places.

On the other hand, public transportation offers savings; both in terms of money and carbon use. Normally, the drivers have considerable experience with the route and the road conditions in Patagonia. And public transportation provides the opportunity to relax and enjoy the incredible scenery outside.

Before your travel, please refer to the information we have provided on public transportation providers within the Service Directory section of this guide. Pre-book the most popular routes. Notify the driver about personal equipment, e.g., bicycles, oversized bags, etc, so that you know there is space and that your content will arrive intact. Pack your bag or backpack as neat as possible –loose and untidy things increase the risk of lost or damaged belongings. Wear suitable clothing according to the weather conditions. Keep your essential travel items handy. Make sure that you are carrying your

important documents and money with you; do not leave them in your bag. Eat and drink enough, and use the rest room before setting out.

During your travels, we suggest you obtain updated schedules, pre-book your reservations, notify services if you have special cargo, such as bicycles and equipment, and be prepared for changes to itineraries and conditions, delays, and even, cancellations. This is especially possible when taking boat transportation, as weather conditions often close ports in this part of the world. You can gather great information about public transportation options in your place of accommodation, restaurants, tourist information offices, municipalities, Police Posts (Retén de Carabineros in Chile,

Cámara El Chaltén - El Huemul Transfer

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Puesto de Gendarmería in Argentina), and of course, at the bus stations. Once on- board, relax and enjoy your travel. Take the opportunity to talk with other travelers. Watch your belongings. When the bus stops, use the opportunity to stretch, use the rest room, and take photographs.

In the event of mechanical problems, chauffeurs and bus drivers are prepared. They are acquainted with fixing issues and have a well developed contact network along the route. So, if you have a mechanical problem, relax and enjoy the opportunity to get out, stretch your legs and take some pictures. In the event of a minor accident, give assistance as requested. If you require help, make sure that others are aware of this situation. Keep your documentation handy. It is common that the police ask for documentation from passengers or persons injured in an accident. In the event of an accident with another vehicle, animal, or person, in which you are injured or your equipment is damaged, you must personally file a police report (constancia) in the nearest Police Post; even if the chauffeur chooses not too.. This is required by law and for insurance claims. Even though other parties are responsible for the driving and management of public

transportation, it is important to be prepared for a serious accident. Before traveling make sure you have a plan and protocol for the management of serious accidents. Gather contact information you might need in the case of an emergency and purchase adequate medical and emergency evacuation insurance.

Rodrigo Merino

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Communication and medical services.

The Undiscovered Patagonia Circuit travels through remote areas which are far from cities, mechanical services, fuel supplies and medical assistance. This

article provides an overview of the health care service providers along the route and tips for communicating in situations where you require assistance.

Should you be faced with a situation in which someone in your group needs professional assistance, you will need to know how to communicate and where to go for help, from the remote areas of the circuit.

Telephone communications in Chile:

The country code for Chile is +56. Land line telephone numbers consist of 6 digits and cell lines have 8 digits. When in Chile, dialing numbers in the Aysén Region of Chile, the prefix for cellular lines is +09, and the prefix for land lines: is +672.

The emergency numbers in Chile are the following:

• 133 Police Emergencies (Carabineros);• 131 Ambulance;• 132 Fire;• 134 Police Investigations• ONEMI (National Office of

Emergencies) – (0672) 215665

Many rural homes and farms, construction and road repair companies, border posts and municipalities communicate through UHF and VHF radios. They manage their own protocols. The best emergency contact via radio in Chile is ONEMI. The call sign to ONEMI is “echo once”. They provide 24-hour assistance.

Cochrane, Chile

Cochrane has Internet, land lines and cell service (provided by both Entel and Movistar). Most lodging options offer Internet for their clients, via WiFi. Internet is also available in the public library, and from Internet cafes.

Cochrane has a hospital with four general

medics who care for patients from the towns of Caleta Tortel, Villa O’Higgins, Puerto Bertrand, and surrounding areas.

In the event of accidents, the emergency response protocol is activated through the Cochrane Police (Carabineros), who inform the hospital as soon as they arrive on an accident scene. The hospital has two ambulances equipped with paramedics. If the patient’s condition requires transfer to the Regional Hospital in Coyhaique, there are two travel options: by plane (about 45 min.) or by ambulance (about 5 hours).

Near the Paso Roballos border crossing you will find the Entrada Baker Police Post; which, coordinates emergency responses for the route through Valley Chacabuco.

Caleta Tortel, Chile

Evelyn Pfeiffer

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In Caleta Tortel, telephone and Internet are available via cellular connection, provided by Entel. The only land lines are within the municipality and the Police Station. Internet is available in the public library and in the municipality (in event of emergency) and many lodging facilities will have WiFi through their cellular. Many smart phones will also have access to Internet. There is a Rural Health Post near the parking lot. Radio communications are common in Caleta Tortel, often via Marino VHF radio, using open channel 10. Tour and Lodging operators and the Tourism Information Office use this channel. The police and fire department use other frequencies.

In case of emergency, the fastest way to obtain assistance is through cellular or the offices of the municipal government (“la muni”). Call, radio, or go directly to the municipal government offices located in the central area of town, referred to as the Base Sector of the boardwalks. To obtain a radio, consult at any house or business. Other assistance options include the Tourism Information Center, the Police Post and the Rural Health Post.

Villa O’Higgins, Chile

In Villa O’Higgins, there is mobile phone reception (Entel), a Rural Health Post, and a Police Station (Carabineros de Chile). Rural Health Post paramedics and the police coordinate emergency responses with the hospital in Cochrane. According to the severity, they decide whether to evacuate the patient by plane to the regional hospital in Coyhaique (about 1 hour and 15 minutes with good weather) or via ambulance to the hospital in Cochrane (3 - 5 hours).

Telephone communications in Argentina:

Dialing a phone number in Argentina can seem complicated. These simple tips will help:

Land Lines

If you are dialing from a land-line to a land-line phone within a different area code, you must dial the local area code and the

number: (02962) 000-000. If you are calling from the same area code, you can simply dial, 000-000. If you are dialing a land line phone in Argentina, from outside Argentina, begin with the international access code (three digits; check with your service provider), add 54 for the country code, 0 and the 4 digit area code, and the number = 000 54 (02962) 000-000.

Cell Phones

All cell phone numbers start with a 15, e.g., (02962) 15 000-000. If you are dialing from a cell phone to a cell phone you don’t need to dial the 15, e.g., (02962) 000-000.

If you are dialing from a land-line to a cell phone you must dial the 15, e.g., (02962) 15 000-000. If you are calling from the same area code, e.g., 02962, you can simply dial, 15 000-000.

If you are dialing a cell phone in Argentina, from outside Argentina, begin with the international access code (three digits; check with your service provider), add 54 for the country code, remove the 0 from the area code, replace with a 9, then take out the 15 before the number = 000 54 (92962) 000-000.

If you still experience problems, we suggest

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calling your service provider for further assistance. Local Call Centers (Centros de Llamadas) can also assist.

There are three prefix options for the Santa Cruz Province. In the northern part of the Circuit, including Hipolito Yrigoyen (Lago Posadas), Perito Moreno, and Bajo Caracoles, the prefix is +02963. In the southern part of the Circuit, including Gobernador Gregores, Tres Lagos and El Chaltén the prefix is +02962. The prefix for El Calafate is +02902.

Emergency numbers in Argentina:

• 101 Police• 100 Fire• 107 Hospital• These are toll-free numbers (including

from cellphones).

Hipólito Yrigoyen (Lago Posadas), Argentina

There are land lines and Internet in Hipólito Yrigoyen (Lago Posadas), but no cellular phone signal. Some lodging providers offer Internet to their guests. Health emergencies are treated in the puesto sanitario, which is equipped with medics, dentists and nurses. Ambulances can transfer patients to the district hospital in Perito Moreno, if required.

Bajo Caracoles, Argentina

In Bajo Caracoles, you can find a mechanic, basic provisions, and a public phone, which is located in the Bajo Caracoles Hotel. The closest bigger city is Perito Moreno, 128 Km to the north, via Route 40, where there is a district hospital.

Gobernador Gregores, Argentina

In Gobernador Gregores, there is cellular service, land line service, and Internet. The majority of lodging options offer WiFi for their customers. There is a district hospital, a fire department, and a police department.

El Chaltén, Argentina

Land lines and Internet are available in El Chaltén; however, there is currently no cellular service. There are public call centers and Internet cafés, and most lodging services provide Internet for their guests. Basic medical services are provided in the Puesto Sanitario. More serious cases are transported via ambulance to Gobernador Gregores or El Calafate. There is a local police department, a Justice of the Peace, and the administration for the National Park Service located in town.

NOTES

Evelyn Pfeiffer

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Thinking of traveling with a pet?

In Patagonia, traveling with pets is possible, but for many reasons, it is not the norm. Before inviting your beloved four-legged friend

to travel with you, consider the difficulties involved with border crossings, the rules of National Parks and Reserves, the probability

of an encounter with wildlife, and the limited services available.

We don’t recommend traveling the Undiscovered Patagonia Circuit with your pets. Consider that in most places, you will need to walk your dog or cat with a collar and leash. Pets are not allowed in National Parks and Reserves in Chile and Argentina, including the back-country crossing between El Chaltén and Villa O’Higgins. Therefore, if you want to include visits to these places in your trip you will need to plan a solution for the care and transport of your pet. Most hotels do not accept pets; therefore, you will need to contact them in advance and make reservations with those that agree to accept your four-legged friend.

Some travelers opt to hire a driver / guide who drops them off in El Chaltén and reunites with them in Villa O’Higgins. The driver transports vehicles, luggage and potentially, pets. This is a possible solution; however, your pet must meet the regulations for international export and transport of

household animals. To cross the border between Chile and Argentina with pets, you need to remember the following policies:

Entering Chile with dogs and cats is controlled by the Agricultural and Livestock Service (SAG), whose role is to prevent the introduction of communicable diseases. SAG authorizes entry for household pets provided that the animals meet applicable health requirements. Owners must: 1) present a Health Certificate issued by the health authority of the country of origin for the pet. This document must be in Spanish and also in the language of the country of origin (if other than Spanish). It must have been issued no more than 10 calendar days prior to travel. The certificate must show that:

1. The animal underwent a clinical examination by a veterinarian within 10 days of departure, and was determined to be free of infectious

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and parasitic diseases.

2. The pet was vaccinated against rabies at least 1 month and less than 12 months prior to travel, or a test was conducted to detect the presence of antibodies against the rabies virus (with minimum score of 0.5 IU / ml), within the last 3 - 24 months.

3. The animal received an internal and external broad spectrum anti-parasitic treatment within 30 days prior to travel.

Additionally, the certificate must include:

• Background information about the owner and transporter (Name, ID, Permanent Address),

• Background information for the pet (vaccinations, examinations and treatments), and the

• Address where you will stay in Chile.

If an owner fails to comply with the documentation and certification requested, the SAG is entitled to take sanitary measures it deems appropriate. People, who leave Chile with their pets for a period exceeding

21 days must also meet these requirements upon their return. If people leave the country for less than 21 days, they only need to submit a copy of the export health certificate and rabies vaccination certificate or test that determines antibodies against rabies virus, upon their return.

To enter Argentina with dogs or cats, the Argentine government requires complete information about the owner and the animal (breed, sex, birth date, size, weight, description of color and appearance particulars of the pet), a rabies vaccination certificate for animals over three months of age and an exportation document issued from the health authority official in Chile, (SAG), certifying that, prior to shipment, the pet has no signs of infectious or parasitic diseases typical of the species. In case of suspected pathologies, the National Animal Health Service of Argentina, (SENASA), has the right to determine the means to ensure the isolation of the animal and take sanitary measures. In case of other species of pets, consult with SENASA about specific requirements.

Cristian Solis

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Service Directory for Before and After the Circuit.

Service DirectoryBefore & After the Circuit..

BANKING SERVICES

Banks & Automatic Teller Machines (ATMs)Coyhaique, CH.Along Condell, between the Plaza & Av Baquedano, there are a number of banks w/ATMs. There are very few options for getting cash once you travel south; thus we suggest visiting an ATM or Exchange House while in Coyhaique. Most banks accept international ATM network cards (CIRRUS, etc.),, & VISA/MASTERCARD.

Turismo Prado Money ExchangeCoyhaique, CH, 22 de Mayo 417, (0672) 231271, [email protected]. This travel agency provides Money Exchange Services. (09h00-13h00 & 15h00-18h00, Mondays-Saturdays).

ATM, Banco de Santa Cruz (Bank)El Calafate, AR, Inside the International Airport “Comandante Armando Tola” (FTE), 23km east of town, along RP 11. The Banco de Santa Cruz (bank) has an ATM (Red Link) in the airport.

Thaler Money ExchangeEl Calafate, AR, Avenida 9 de Julio, in the Paseo de los Pajaros gallery. (02902) 493245, www.cambio-thaler.com.This Money Exchange Agency is open Mondays-Saturdays 10h00 - 13h00 & 15h30-20h00, & Sundays from 17h30-20h00.

GENERAL – TOURISM INFORMATION

Aumen Foundation On the Internet at www.aumen.cl.

The Aumen Foundation is a Non-Governmental Organization (NGO), focused on the conservation & management of fiscal lands & support of local communities; including the Laguna Caiquenes Conservation Area, which is managed as a Conservation Area, used for protection, education, research, & low impact, nature-based tourism.

Chamber of Tourism of Coyhaique, Tourism Information KioskCoyhaique, CH, Corner of the Plaza of Arms (Yellow Kiosk), (0672) 211253, www.aysenpatagonia.cl, [email protected]. Provider of Tourism Information for the Region of Aysén, w/emphasis on the area in & around Coyhaique & their members.

House of Rural Tourism Information CenterCoyhaique, CH, Corner of the Plaza of Arms (Yellow Kiosk), (0672) 524929 / 214031, www.casaturismorural.cl, [email protected] Rural Tourism House is a Tourism Information Center located in the city of Coyhaique, which promotes their network of tourism service providers, the Regional Association of Rural Tourism. They work all year, helping connect visitors w/rural families who offer services combining rural activities & nature.

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National Fishing & Aquaculture Service (SERNAPESCA)Aysén Region, Puerto Aysén, CH, Eleuterio Ramírez N° 1423, (0672) 333134 / 333753, www.sernapesca.cl.Information on laws, regulations & practices for recreational fishing, w/an on-line portal in which you can purchase licenses via the web.

National Forestry Corporation of Chile (CONAF)Aysén Region, Coyhaique, CH, Av Ogana 1060, (0672) 212125 / 212225. www.conaf.cl. The regional offices for CONAF can provide maps, brochures, & general information on the Region´s Parks & Reserves (09h00-20h00 Mondays - Saturdays, 10h00-18h00 Sundays).

Padre Ronchi Works FoundationCoyhaique, CH, (09), 85807576 / 95169088, www.fundacionronchi.cl, [email protected] non-profit foundation created in the Aysén region, w/headquarters in Coyhaique, whose main purpose is to perpetuate, promote, & honor the memory & work that Padre Antonio Ronchi developed in the Regions of Aysén & Los Lagos, Chile.

Tourism Information Office, Region of Aysén, National Tourism Service of Chile (SERNATUR)Coyhaique, CH, Bulnes 35, (0672) 231752, www.recorreaysen.cl, [email protected] is the National Agency responsible for tourism development in Chile. Their Regional Tourism Information Office (Mon-Fri 08h30-20h30, Sat-Sun 08h30-17h30) offers helpful advice (multiple languages spoken), maps, brochures, & up to date bus information.

GENERAL – SAFETY

National Highway Department of ChileCH, Internet Site: www.vialidad.gov.cl.Website w/information on road conditions in Chile & the Region of Aysén, including construction.

National Office of Emergencies of Chile (ONEMI)Coyhaique, CH, Freire 450, (0672) 215665, www.onemi.cl, The National Emergency Office of the Ministry of Interior & Public Security, is Chile´s technical agency responsible for the coordination of the National Civil Protection System. Its mission is to plan, promote, coordinate, & implement preventive measures, response & recovery actions, relating to public risk situations, emergencies, disasters & catastrophes, resulting from natural or human action.

General Administration of Roads for the Province of Santa CruzAR, Internet Site: www.agvp.gov.ar.Web-based information for road conditions in the Santa Cruz Province of Argentina, including construction projects.

GENERAL – HEALTH

Aysén Hospital RegionalCoyhaique, CH, Ibar 68, (0672) 219100, www.hospitalregionalcoyhaique.cl.The only Complete-care Medical Facility within the health care network of the Aysén Region. Provides safe, quality diagnosis & treatment, w/services for both preventative & emergency care. Emergency room is open 24 hours a day, 7 days a week.

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J. Formenti Regional HospitalEl Calafate, AR, Julio A. Roca 1488, (02902) 491173.Performs minor surgeries, & administers antibiotics & medications. 24 hour Emergency Services.

GENERAL – POSTAL SERVICES

Correos de Chile (Post Office)Coyhaique, CH, Cochrane 227, (600) 502020.Full service branch office w/office hours Monday - Friday, from 09h00 -13h30 & 15h00 - 18h00; Saturday hours from 10h00 - 13h00.

GETTING AROUND – AIR TRANSPORT

Balmaceda National Airport (BBA)Aysén Region, Balmaceda, CH, Carretera Austral, 58 Km from Coyhaique, in the small town of Balmaceda, which sits on the border w/Argentina.The Balmaceda (BBA) airport is located 58 Km from Coyhaique, the capital city of the Region of Aysén. This small, but modern airport, is the major regional transportation hub for this part of Patagonia. Major jet service from Santiago, Puerto Montt & Punta Arenas, via Lan Airlines & Sky Airlines. There is a Tourist Information Booth in the airport, a small gift/snack kiosk, an ATM & a cafe. In front of the airport you will find many shuttle services offering transfers to Coyhaique for about $4.000 pesos. Several rental car agencies have offices in the airport.

LAN Chile AirlineCoyhaique, CH, General Parra 402, (0672) 231188, www.lan.com.Several daily flights (most leaving in the morning) to Puerto Montt (CH$96.500+/-) & Santiago (CH$203.000+/-) from the Balmaceda airport. Tip: Rates can be much lower if purchased in-country.

Sky AirlineCoyhaique, CH, Arturo Prat 203, (0672) 240827, www.skyairline.cl. National Airlines w/itineraries between Santiago, Balmaceda & Punta Arenas, among others.

Don Carlos Air TransportCoyhaique, CH, Subteniente Cruz 63, (0672) 231981.Flies small aircraft to Villa O’Higgins (CH$36.000) on Mondays & Thursdays. Charter flights are available to Caleta Tortel & Cochrane.

International Airport “Comandante Armando Tola” (FTE)El Calafate, AR, 23 Km east of the town, along RP 11, (02902) 432232, www.aeropuertoelcalafate.com.The International Airport “Comandante Armando Tola”, (IATA: FTE, ICAO: SAWC) serves the city of El Calafate, in the province of Santa Cruz, Argentina. The airport is located 23 km from the city center, heading east. 3 Argentine airlines offer service from the airport (Southern Airlines, LAN Argentina & LADE) to Buenos Aires, Bariloche, Ushuaia, & other national destinations. Also, the Chilean airline, Aerovias DAP, operates charter flights to Puerto Natales & Punta Arenas, in Chile.

LADE AirlineEl Calafate, AR, on the corner of Jean Mermoz 160 & Vcom. Marambio, (02902) 491262, www.lade.com.ar, [email protected] flies between Perito Moreno & El Calafate on Thursdays, each week. LADE also offers connections between Esquel, Com. Rivadavia, Ushuaia, & Bariloche, amongst other destinations.

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GETTING AROUND – BUS TRANSPORT

Buses Acuario 13Coyhaique, CH, Municipal Bus Terminal, corner of Lautaro & Magallanes, (0672) 255726.Buses Acuario 13 offers scheduled transportation between Coyhaique & Cochrane w/departures most days. They also provide transfers between Cochrane, Villa O’Higgins, & Caleta Tortel, 2-3 times a week. Confirm times & make reservations in advance by visiting their office in Coyhaique or Cochrane, in person. In other communities, we suggest you visit the Tourist Information Office to obtain updated schedules & details on how to make your reservations.

Buses Águilas PatagónicasCoyhaique, CH, Corner of Lautaro & Magallanes, in front of the Municipal Bus Terminal, (0672) 211288, www.aguilaspatagonicas.cl, [email protected] Águilas Patagónicas offers scheduled transportation between Coyhaique & Cochrane w/departures on alternate days. They also provide transfers between Cochrane, Villa O’Higgins, & Caleta Tortel, 2-3 times a week. Confirm schedules & make reservations in advance by visiting their office, in person, in Coyhaique or Cochrane. In other communities, we suggest you visit the Tourist Information Office to obtain updated schedules & details on how to make your reservations.

Buses Don CarlosCoyhaique, CH, Subteniente Cruz N° 64, (0672) 231981.Buses Don Carlos offers scheduled transportation between Coyhaique & Cochrane w/departures on alternate days. Confirm schedules & make reservations in advance by visiting their office, in person, in Coyhaique or Cochrane. You can also visit the Tourist Information Office in either city, to obtain updated schedules & details on how to make your reservations.

Buses Sao Paulo CoyhaiqueCH, Municipal Bus Terminal, corner of Lautaro & Magallanes, (0672) 255726Buses Sao Paulo offers scheduled transportation between Coyhaique & Cochrane w/departures on alternate days. Confirm schedules & make reservations in advance by visiting their office, in person, in Coyhaique or Cochrane. In other communities, we suggest you visit the Tourist Information Office to obtain updated schedules & details on how to make your reservations.

Chaltén Travel TurismoCoyhaique, CH Av. Ogana 1147, (0672) 246113, www.chaltentravel.com, [email protected] November 15 to April 4, Chaltén Travel offers bus service between El Calafate & El Chaltén, as well as El Chaltén & points north, including Bajo Caracoles, Perito Moreno, Los Antiguos & Bariloche. You can contact 1 of their offices (El Calafate, AR; El Chaltén, AR; or Coyhaique, CH), for details, days of departure & arrival, & reservations. They are the only company specializing in Patagonia transfers along the legendary Route 40, linking Bariloche, Perito Moreno, El Chaltén & El Calafate through a journey of adventure & amazing scenery. Recently they have incorporated the renowned Carretera Austral in Chile into their itineraries, linking the towns of Chile Chico, Chaitén & Coyhaique.

Coyhaique Bus TerminalCoyhaique, CH, cnr Lautaro & Magallanes, (0672) 258203Buses operate from the terminal where each bus line has a separate office & information posted about their destinations & schedules. There are buses traveling throughout the region, to national destinations north & south, & to Argentina. Schedules change continuously; it is best to go in person for the latest information.

Buses TaqsaEl Calafate, AR, Avenida Libertador 1150, (02902) 492531, www.taqsa.com.arBuses Taqsa runs the entire stretch of RN 40 between El Calafate & Bariloche several times a week beginning in late October, stopping at El Chaltén, Bajo Caracoles, Perito Moreno & Esquel.

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Chaltén Travel Turismo, El CalafateAR, Av. Libertador 1174, (02902) 492212 / 492480, www.chaltentravel.com, [email protected] November 15 to April 4, Chaltén Travel offers bus service between El Calafate & El Chaltén, as well as El Chaltén & points north, including Bajo Caracoles, Perito Moreno, Los Antiguos & Bariloche. You can contact 1 of their offices (El Calafate, AR; El Chaltén, AR; or Coyhaique, CH), for details, days of departure & arrival, & reservations. They are the only company specializing in Patagonia transfers along the legendary Route 40, linking Bariloche, Perito Moreno, El Chaltén & El Calafate through a journey of adventure & amazing scenery. Recently they have incorporated the renowned Carretera Austral in Chile into their itineraries, linking the towns of Chile Chico, Chaitén & Coyhaique.

GETTING AROUND – CHAUFFEURS & TRANSFERS

Anulén ExcursionsCoyhaique, CH, 21 de Mayo 417, (09) 95973403 / 65956553. [email protected]én Excursions provides logistics & personalized tours in the Region of Aysén. They can help to support your plans to travel the Undiscovered Patagonia Circuit w/vans, support vehicles, & guides to accompany your group. Contact them for a personalized quote.

Cabot Travel AgencyCoyhaique, CH, General Para 177, (0672) 230101, www.cabot.cl, [email protected] agency offering a wide range of tourist services, from simple guided hikes to programs of 10 days or more. Cabot can help arrange rentals, reservations, & chauffeurs for the Circuit.

GeoTurismo PatagoniaCoyhaique, CH, José de Moraleda No. 480, (0672) / (09) 233439 / 66367733 / 83565342, www.geoturismopatagonia.cl, [email protected] travel advisory service provided by a team of advisers who are familiar w/experiences along the Carretera Austral & Route 40 in Argentina. They are Patagonians who’ve been to the lesser known corners that you’ll have the opportunity to explore, providing advice to save you time & a lot of worries.

Pura Patagonia AgencyCoyhaique, CH, General Parra 202, (0672) 246000, www.purapatagonia.cl, [email protected] them about your interests & your budget, they’ll help you arrange the rest.... Pura Patagonia offers customized services & itineraries to meet all your needs, both for individual travelers & for those traveling w/a group of friends or relatives. Whether your group is small or large, w/Pura Patagonia you have the opportunity to choose the locations you want to visit & build your own route!

T y T Tourism & TransfersCoyhaique, CH, Calle Lord Cochrane 387, (0672) 256600, [email protected] shuttle service (CH$4.000) to Balmaceda airport, 58km southeast of town, leaves 2 hours before flight departure. T & T also has chauffeurs that provide charter services & could provide your transportation for the Circuit for a special fee.

Transfer ValenciaCoyhaique, CH, Lautaro 848, (0672) 233030, [email protected] shuttle service (CH$4.000) to Balmaceda airport, 58km southeast of town, leaves 2 hours before flight departure. Valencia also has chauffeurs that provide charter services & could provide your transportation for the Circuit for a special fee.

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Transfer VelasquezCoyhaique, CH, Los Cipreses 1970, (0672) 250413Door-to-door shuttle service (CH$4.000) to Balmaceda airport, 58km southeast of town, leaves 2 hours before flight departure.

GETTING AROUND – RENTAL CARS

Automundo AVR RentacarCoyhaique, CH, Francisco Bilbao 510, (0672) 231621, [email protected] rental car agency. Book in advance!

Budget Rental CarCoyhaique, CH, Balmaceda Airport & in Coyhaique, Errázuriz 454, (0672) 255171, www.budget.clInternational rental car agency w/airport pick-up / drop-off. Book in advance!

Hertz Rental CarCoyhaique, CH, Balmaceda Airport, (0672) 231648, www.hertz.clInternational rental car agency w/airport pick-up / drop-off. Book in advance!

Traeger RentacarCoyhaique, CH, Baquedano 457, (0672) 231648, www.traeger.cl, [email protected] car agency that offers emergency roadside assistance. Has their own mechanic shop & tow trucks. Book in advance!

Turismo Prado Rental CarCoyhaique, CH, 22 de Mayo 417, (0672) 231271, [email protected] travel agency provides Car Rental Services. (09h00-13h00 & 15h00-18h00, Mondays - Saturdays).

Avis Rental CarEl Calafate, AR, Avenida del Libertador Gral. San Martín 1080 & in the International Airport, 23km east of the town, along RP 11, (02902) 492877, www.avis.com.arRental cars & 4x4 vehicles, a variety of models, drop-off & legal entry/exit w/Chile. We accept credit cards. Airport & the City Center offices.

Hertz Rental CarEl Calafate, AR, Libertador 1822 y in the International Airport, 23km east of the town, along RP 11, (02902) 493033, www.milletrentacar.com.arFree Unlimited Miles & Full Coverage Insurance available. Rental cars & 4x4s in El Calafate & across the country. Airport & City Center offices. Discounts on Hotels, Restaurants & Shops.

GETTING AROUND - BICYCLES & OTHER ALTERNATIVES

Anulén ExcursionsCoyhaique, CH, 21 de Mayo 417, (09) 95973403 / 65956553, [email protected]én Excursions can help to support your plans to bike the Undiscovered Patagonia Circuit w/ support vehicles & guides to accompany your group. You can rent equipment from their fleet of TREK 3700 bikes & accessories. Contact them for a personalized quote.

Evo Sports StoreCoyhaique, CH, 21 de Mayo 417, (09) 95973403 / 65956553, [email protected] & sales of TREK Bicycles & other equipment for bike touring & adventure sports.

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Figón Bicycle ShopCoyhaique, CH, Almirante Simpson 888, (0672) 234616, [email protected] Bicycle Shop rents bicycles & other associated equipment, provides repair services, & sells some parts & accessories.

Pura Patagonia AgencyCoyhaique, CH, General Parra 202, (0672) 246000, www.purapatagonia.cl, [email protected] Patagonia offers customized services & itineraries to meet all your needs, including rental of bikes, accessories, & provision of guides & support vehicles. They specialize in bike trips on the Carretera Austral from Balmaceda or Coyhaique, until Villa O’Higgins.

La BarracaEl Calafate, AR, Emilio Amado 833, (02902) 491999, [email protected] Rental per hour & day. Rental of outdoor clothing, jackets, pants, boots, gloves, goggles, trekking poles, hats, tents, sleeping bags, heaters & everything you need for camping. Special tours, like mini-trekking, “everything glacier”, BIG ICE & visits to El Chaltén.

Patagonia ShopEl Calafate, AR, 9 de Julio 29, (02902) 492767, www.facebook.com/patagoniashopcalafate.Mountain Gear Store that sells & rents bikes & sports gear (footwear, apparel, accessories). Accepts all credit cards. Get in touch through their site on Facebook. (Mondays – Sundays, 10h00 – 22h00).

NEW FINDS

Evelyn Pfeiffer

CHAPTER 2

MEANDER WITHIN THE PATAGONIA GRASSLANDS

STAGE 1 UNDISCOVERED PATAGONIA CIRCUIT

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GUIDE TO AN UNDISCOVERED PATAGONIALIST OF ARTICLESCHAPTER 2: STAGE 1 - Meander within the Patagonia Grasslands.

40 Meander within the Patagonia Grasslands.

47 Cochrane has always been a city on the move.

50 Take a walk through Cochrane’s past and present.

53 Sip the flavor of Patagonia.

54 Heat up your journey.

56 Serving a perfect yerba mate starts with the water.

57 Check out beautiful views in Tamango National Reserve.

58 Support the critical work of the Tamango National Reserve.

60 Tips for hiking in Patagonia.

63 Explore the Tamango National Reserve with this day hike.

65 Planning your water-based activities in Patagonia.

67 Kayak the Cochrane River.

68 Land the big one on Cochrane’s waters.

69 Preparing for the climate of Patagonia.

70 Discover Patagonia with your kids.

71 Explore the Tamango National Reserve with this great multisport day-circuit!

73 Experience the Baker River.

75 Introducing Patagonia’s newest Park.

76 A new legacy for an ancient Valley.

78 Hiking in Valley Chacabuco.

79 A walk to the Cisnes Lagoon in Patagonia Park.

80 Walk the cemetery circuit in Patagonia Park.

81 Hike the Altas Lagoons circuit in Patagonia Park.

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GUIDE TO AN UNDISCOVERED PATAGONIALIST OF ARTICLESCHAPTER 2: STAGE 1 - Meander within the Patagonia Grasslands.

82 Celebrate the Route of the Huemul Festival.

83 Backstage with Hippocamelus bisulcus.

85 Backpacking through Huemul country.

86 Explore the Casa de Piedra Area in Patagonia Park.

88 Crossing borders between Chile and Argentina.

91 Back roads tour of the Austral Steppe.

93 Posadas, pastas, and petroglyphs await in Hipolito Yrigoyen.

95 Celebrate Argentina’s National Gnocchi Day.

96 Cooking on the road Argentinean style, “Gnocchi with Salsa Tuco”.

Patrick McGarry

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CHAPTER 2: Stage 1 - Meander within the Patagonia Grasslands.

Meander within the Patagonia Grasslands. Overview of Stage 1 of the Undiscovered Patagonia Circuit.

The first Stage of the Undiscovered Patagonia Circuit, (188.5 Km), meanders through the Patagonia Grasslands of the Chacabuco Valley. This cool temperate

Grassland ecosystem provides the transition from the lush deciduous forests that border the fiords and the cool arid desert Steppe, in Argentina.

After exploring Cochrane and the many activities nearby, you will begin your travel through the Undiscovered Patagonia Circuit. The first Stage of the Circuit is divided into five Sections, which can be traveled at the pace you desire. This article describes the route and each of the five Sections of this Stage. The Sections can be traveled

by bike in a single day, assuming average abilities and climate conditions, and end at a place where it is possible to camp. For motorized vehicles, it is possible to travel through several Sections in a single day, in accordance with your plans and preferences.

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Section 1A: Cochrane - Patagonia Park Visitor Center (28.2 Km).

Leaving Cochrane, head north along the Carretera Austral (Ruta 7), winding your way through the mountains high above the Chile’s powerful Baker River. Approximately 17 Km from the Plaza in Cochrane, you’ll take a right along Route X-83, a transversal road which meanders the length of Valley Chacabuco. Most of the Valley is owned by a non-profit conservation foundation, Conservación Patagónica, which manages the lands as Patagonia Park. Section 1A ends after another 11 Km, upon reaching the Administration Area of the Park. This first Section totals 28 Km and has some

fairly steep elevation changes in the first 17 Km, leveling off when you enter the Valley. The journey offers great photography opportunities; the turquoise waters of the Baker River, the distant glaciers of the Northern Patagonia Ice Fields and later, the first shots of guanaco (lama guanicoe) and other native wildlife. A stop in the Visitor Center will help you to learn more about the ecosystem of the Patagonia Grasslands and the Park. There are great options for hiking nearby and the Westwinds Campground is only a brief distance from the Administration Area.

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Section 1B: Patagonia Park Visitor Center - Casa de Piedra Camping Area (26 Km).

The second Section of this Stage travels along Route X-83, one of the best kept roads in the Region. You’ll travel through an amazing valley, filled with Grasslands, lakes, lagoons, and long, curving rivers. You’ll depart from the Administration Area of Patagonia Park heading due east for 26 Km, ending at a sector called Casa de Piedra (stone house), in honor of a structure used by gauchos for their ranch work, during the times when these lands were an Estancia. In this sector, the Park is developing a new camping area, Stone House Campground, which is scheduled to open in 2013. Located near the confluence of the Aviles and Chacabuco Rivers, this campground will serve as the jumping off point for explorations in the Aviles Valley and Jeinimeni mountains.

As you travel through this Section of the Circuit, you will be immersed in the ecosystem of the Patagonia Grasslands. As you make your way, you will most definitely be accompanied by the presence of herds of guanaco (lama guanicoe). The guanaco is commonly mistaken for a llama. In fact, they are a separate species, although both belong to same family (Camelidae). These mammals roam the Grasslands and Steppe of Patagonia in both Chile and Argentina. Here in Patagonia Park they are protected and you will find them in large numbers. You’ll have the unique opportunity to observe them as they move about their

habitat, uninhibited by fencing or dogs.

It is also likely that you will encounter one of several varieties of fox or a hairy armadillo (ahaetophractus aillosus), all native to Patagonia, and a grand variety of bird life. The combination of climate and flora produce the perfect conditions for many varieties of birds. For example, while passing one of the many lagoons of this zone, you might be lucky enough to see the Chilean flamingo (phoenicopterus chilensis), which is the largest member of the flamingo family. It can be spotted because

Patrick McGarry

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of its bright pink coloration! You’ll also likely spot Andean condors (vulture gryphus), eagles (geranoaetus melanoleucus), kestrels (falco sparverius), ruddy-headed geese (chloephaga rubidiceps), flying steamer ducks (techyeres patachonicus), and more!

Although hard to spot, some lucky visitors might encounter the only large predator of the Region, the cougar, or puma, as it is known locally (puma concolor). The puma is a legend in Patagonia, known for its quick attack and stealthy lifestyle. It is typically between 1 and 2 meters with a large tail of up to 1 meter. A full-grown male puma can weigh up to 90 kilos. Females tend to be around 55 kilos. This large feline lives a solitary life; it only interacts with others during the short mating season.

A puma attack is extremely unlikely. It’s rare that you encounter their tracks, much less see them. However, as they are protected within Valley Chacabuco and Patagonia Park, there is a slightly higher chance of an encounter ; thus, you should consider these tips:

• Do not walk alone or allow children to stray away from you.

• Do not bring pets with you.• In case of an encounter, do not panic

or run. Running away may facilitate an attack.

• Move away slowly without turning away from the animal. Always keep your eyes on the puma.

• Talk to children in advance about pumas and teach them how to act if they encounter one.

• Take small children in your arms, calming them to prevent panic or sudden movement.

• Never approach a puma, especially if they are feeding or with their young.

Patrick McGarry

NOTES

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Section 1C: Casa de Piedra Camping Area - Chilean Military Post (32.7 Km).

Section 1C of the Circuit continues through Patagonia Park; however, after approximately 10 – 12 Km, you will leave the Park and pass through a series of private Estancias and ranches. You are likely to note the presence of livestock and more introduced varieties of flora, once you leave Patagonia Park. Conservación Patagónica has been working actively for a number of years to restore their Grasslands to a more natural state, after more than 50 years of ranching by former owners. They have removed the livestock and fences from almost all of their lands and are in the constant process of removing introduced plants, replanting with native grasses. While you will still spot native flora and fauna throughout the rest of this Stage of the Circuit, it will likely be in lesser numbers and concentrations, as introduced species tend to win the competition for the natural resources of the zone.

The lush green valley you travel through in this Section is the result of the climatic conditions created by the warm air of the Pacific constantly pushing up against the mountain range separating the Grasslands from the Steppe of Argentina. As this warm air rises and meets the cooler air above, it

forms massive rain fronts which stall over the mountains, dumping their rain on the valley below. This dynamic provides the valley with fresh rainwater and snow, year round, promoting a more abundant and diverse flora than that of the Patagonian Steppe.

After traveling approximately 26 Km, you will reach the Chilean Police Post for the Paso Roballos border crossing. You will need to conduct the transactions required on the Chilean side of the border here. If you plan on camping at the end of this Section it is important to let them know, as the Section ends between the Chilean and Argentinean Posts. After completing the Chilean crossing process, you’ll travel another 7 – 8 Km before noting a road diverting to the left. This road leads to a small Chilean Military Post which monitors the border lands. There is a small staff here and a gaucho who is responsible for raising a flock of 1000+ sheep for military consumption. You can camp near the road, where there is access to a river and fresh water. In all areas of the Circuit, unless specifically indicated, fire is prohibited.

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Section 1D: Chilean Military Post - Ghio Lake & Suyai Estancia Sector (33.3 Km).

After traveling the first 4 – 5 Km of Section 1D, you’ll arrive at the Argentinean Military Post, which is the Rodolfo Roballos crossing point into Argentina. You’ll need to conduct the Argentinean side of the border crossing transactions before continuing your travels along Provincial Route 41 (same road, new name). You’ll quickly note that the area on this side of the mountains does not receive the same amount of rainfall. The ecosystem is more arid, sandy, and desert-like; characteristic of the Patagonian Steppe.

Here, trees will virtually disappear, with the exception of Alamos, or Poplars, and other introduced varieties which are planted to provide shelter from the winds. Small thorny shrubs characterize the landscape, along with tussock grass, a low lying grass with a large intricate root system, enabling its survival in places where water is infrequent. The Patagonian Steppe extends from Argentina’s coast along the Atlantic Ocean to the border of Chile, which is defined by the Andes mountain range. The topography is composed of plateaus, plains, and some low-lying mountains. It is an arid region; desert-like, with average annual precipitation of no more than 200 mm.

The Austral Steppe of Patagonia encompasses 699,297 Km². More than 95% of these lands are privately owned; originally

purchased and developed as massive Estancias. Nevertheless, this is one of the most sparsely populated regions in the world. Overgrazing of domesticated animals, e.g., sheep, during the 1900s, resulted in massive desertification of this already arid ecosystem. These damages, along with other economic and development forces, have largely rendered the Estancia model as unsustainable; however, a number of smaller, local Estancias survive. As you travel through the remainder of this Section, you will note the signs for these local Estancias. Imagine living on one of these remote ranches amongst the harsh winds and dry climate of Patagonia! Yet, locals call these lands home, and in fact, tradition and beauty abound in these isolated lands. Surprisingly, there is a diversity of flora and fauna, which only presents itself to visitors willing to slow down and take a closer look! This Section ends after 33.3. Km, in the sector of Ghio Lake at the entrance to the northern installations of the Suyai Estancia. Camping is possible along the side of the road.

For those who wish to include a visit to Hipolito Yrigoyen – Lago Posadas in their itinerary, be sure to look for the article explaining the route! You can rejoin the Circuit without back-tracking and will want to begin your detour

within this Section of the Circuit.

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Section 1E: Ghio Lake & Suyai Estancia Sector - Bajo Caracoles (68.3 Km).

Ghio Lake is one of the larger lakes of this area, providing important habitat for its abundant bird life and an important source of water. You’ll continue traveling east along Provincial Route 41 for 59 Km, through rolling terrain and private Estancias, before arriving at the intersection of Provincial Route 41 and National Route 40. Here, you’ll head south for 9.3 Km, arriving at the tiny outpost of Bajo Caracoles; which marks the end of this Section and the first Stage of the Circuit. Bajo Caracoles appears, on first glance, as little more than a truck-stop. However, as with most aspects of the Patagonian Steppe, it’s important to look a bit deeper and find the hidden gems. Bajo Caracoles has a bit of a cult following amongst bikers and independent travelers, offering a quirky historic hotel, food, great coffee, a mechanic that can make miracles, gas pumps, and access to UNESCO World Heritage Site, the Cueva de las Manos (Cave of the Hands).

Bajo Caracoles was originally developed as one of a series of rest-stops for weary gauchos traveling with herds of sheep or cattle. Here, one could stop, spend a night and re-supply, before continuing toward the larger towns and markets. The historic Bajo Caracoles Hotel was built in the 1940s, at the height of The Wool Route. Today, most of these pop-up towns have disappeared;

however, Bajo Caracoles lives on. The hotel is still functional and is a very popular stop for travelers adventuring on the famous National Route 40. Reservations are suggested, especially during peak times!

NOTES

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Cochrane has always been a city on the move.

Though the lifestyle of people in Cochrane has changed, it proudly maintains close links to its ranching heritage and gaucho customs.

To understand this community and its people, you must sift through its history and discover the events that have marked its evolution. The Cochrane River Valley, where Cochrane is located today, was first charted in 1899, by the explorer Hans Steffen. Later, the Chilean government offered these lands as a concession, to promote their settlement and development. In 1908 the lands were awarded to the Baker River Operating Society, as a concession for livestock production and ranching, transforming the area into an enormous Estancia. Soon, workers began to settle, supporting the needs of the growing operation.

Cochrane traces its history to the year 1929, when public records show the petition for the first town plans. It originated in a sector of the Chacabuco Valley called, Las Latas, (The Cans), perhaps a reference to the common custom of paying workers

for each sheep sheared, by dropping a coin in a tin can beside their work station. This area was easily accessible for workers and their families, as it was close to the main infrastructure of the Chacabuco Valley Cattle Company, also located in the Entrada Baker Sector.

But, having a town spring up so close to the headquarter area did not suit the shareholders of the company. Company officials negotiated with the government of the time to have the people moved to a valley northeast of Cochrane Lake, beside the river of the same name. Thus, in 1929, when the mayor, Don Marchant, commissioned a layout of plans for the town developing in Las Latas Sector, the surveyor conducted the work at the site he named Pueblo Nuevo instead, located 7 Km from the shores of Cochrane Lake.

Twenty-five years later, on March 17, 1954, the town of Cochrane was officially

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founded. By this time, residents were well-settled into the Pueblo Nuevo location.

The Estancia heritage of this area remains deeply interwoven within local lives and identities. Ranching and gaucho customs continue to the current day, despite the arrival of modern technologies and a more urban way of life. Today, there is a new generation of Cochraninos reviving and maintaining this heritage; finding their medium within the music of this sector. Look for popular local musicians like Francisco Soto (pictured on left below), Nicasio Luna, Danilo Cruces, and Sebastián Barra, during Cochrane’s annual folklore and heritage festival, which takes place in February.

Historic Pioneer Era Photos, Solis Family CollectionNOTES

Patrick McGarry

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Evelyn Pfeiffer

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Take a walk through Cochrane’s past and present.

This brief walking tour through downtown Cochrane provides the opportunity to discover some important moments in the founding and development of the town.

This tour is self-guided, beginning at the Cochrane’s Plaza of Arms and ending at the Museum. You can choose your own route, based on your personal interests and the list of interesting places provided below. Download the accompanying Geo-references from the Undiscovered Patagonia Website, to build your own map.

• Activity Type: Walking or bike tour• Circuit Sector: Downtown

Cochrane• Starting Point: Plaza of Arms• Ending Point: Museum of

Cochrane• Suggestions: Download the KMZ

points available on line to make a personalized tour map.

• Distance: Depends on you!• Duration: 1 – 3 hours• Seasonality: Year round.• Difficulty: Suitable for all.

Interesting Places:

The Plaza of Arms: Welcome to the town of Cochrane and the beautiful Plaza of Arms, where you can sit, relax, and watch the passersby. Pay a visit to the Tourism Information Center located in the southeast corner for answers to your questions, helpful brochures and maps.

Lord Cochrane Southern High School: Cochrane's first school dates from the year 1931, when Don Lucas Bridges, owner of the concession developing ranching in the Baker River basis, built it to fulfill a commitment to the settlers of the area. The original school was built at the confluence of the Tamango and Cochrane rivers, setting the course for development of Pueblo Nuevo, which was first surveyed at the same time. The creation of Southern Lord Cochrane High

School, in 1984, represented a significant advance for education in the area. This school has focused on quality programming and curriculum, becoming one of the most prestigious educational establishments in the Region. It provides a local option for children throughout the Province to remain close to home for their high-school years. Today, you can find Lord Cochrane High School on the north side of the Plaza, between the streets of Las Golondrinas and Esmeralda.

Cochrane’s Post Office: Historically, courier services delivered mail to Cochrane by horse, traveling through the treacherous, Canyon of the Lioness, which separated Cochrane from Chile Chico. The Town of Cochrane was officially founded on March 17, 1954, with the inauguration of the building intended to be the first post office. The site of this building had been donated to the city, by Don Luis Baez Barra, who was the deputy of Cochrane at the time.

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The bricks and tiles were made by Don Enrique Barria and Don Zenobio Mansilla. As with many growing frontier towns, plans changed and the building was given to the Air Force of Chile instead. It took another 6 years to officially establish the postal service (Correos de Chile), in Cochrane, in 1960. Today, you will encounter the Correos Chile Branch at Esmeralda Street N° 199.

Offices of the Municipal Government: At the time of its founding in 1954, the town of Cochrane had ten houses. The final plans for the blocks of the original town were determined in 1955, within the work of a commission composed of three surveyors, Don Carlos Pizarro Araneda, Don Germán Pozo and Don Fernando Malagueño. On October 26, 1970, the town of Cochrane, which had formerly pertained to the Department of Chile Chico, became a Department of its own. Its first Governor was Don Esteban Ramírez Sepúlveda. Shortly thereafter, in 1974, the Region of Aysén was established, along with four Provinces; one of which was the Province of Capitán Prat. The establishment of this Province represents an important milestone in the realization of residents’ dreams to be able to access public services and government institutions within their local community. Today you will find the offices

of the Municipality on Esmeralda Street, N°398, at the corner with Dr. Steffen.

Cochrane’s Police Headquarters: In 1955, the first Police Station of Cochrane was relocated from the Entrada Baker sector to the area where the Balsa Baker Ferry currently crosses the Baker River. The responsibility for this important advance in the town’s infrastructure fell on Don Rodolfo Stange, a man who left a permanent impression on the history of these lands. Today, the Police Headquarters for Cochrane is under the direction of Don Juan Marcelo Baeza Gaete, and located at Calle Esmeralda Nº522, along the perimeter of the Plaza of Arms. Amongst other things, this Commissary, as they are referred to in Chile, is authorized to conduct transactions related to the crossing of borders.

Cochrane’s Hospital: The earliest health care services in this zone were informally supplied by “Meicas”, elder women who would travel the long distances between ranches to help ailing settlers. Thus, the creation of the Cochrane Hospital was another important chapter in the development of the city of Cochrane. This facility replaced the old Rural Health Post in 1979, providing citizens of the Province

Evelyn Pfeiffer

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with much better access to modern health care services. Today, the hospital, located at Av. Bernardo O’Higgins N° 755, is equipped with four general medics who care for patients from the towns of Caleta Tortel, Villa O’Higgins, Puerto Bertrand, and surrounding areas. This hospital provides general and emergency care, minor surgeries, antibiotics and medications.

The ECA (Agricultural Commerce Stores) of Cochrane: Early residents of Cochrane ate diets consisting mostly of beans, potatoes, pasta, rice, tea and yerba mate. At times settlers also had access to meat, eggs, milk, fruits, vegetables and fish; however, surveys conducted in the region in 1938, revealed that rural families in Chile faced grand difficulties related to nutrition. Almost ¾ of the families in Chile were living in conditions where they did not receive adequate levels of nourishment. A number of government programs were implemented in Chile in response to these findings. One of these programs involved the development of a network of Rural Grocery-General Stores, subsidized and supported by the state as part of a strategy to establish a reliable and affordable supply of food and basic goods in remote areas. The Commercial outlets had various names through the years. If you have the opportunity to talk with an old-timer in Cochrane, you’ll find that they remember the INACO store (National Institute of Commerce). Almost all residents

will remember the next name of these stores, the ECA (Agricultural Commerce Stores). The current name for these stores is EMAZA, which stands for Supply Stores for Isolated Zones; however, for Cochraninos, the store remains known as the Almacén ECA, and is a local institution. You can visit the ECA at Rio Colonia N°85.

The Museum of Cochrane: Many of the interesting characters that founded the city of Cochrane are no longer among us, but you can find evidence of their contributions and sacrifices in the local museum, located at Calle San Valentín N°555, next to the Cultural Center. The Museum contains two permanent exhibits. The first relates to the geomorphology of the area, the natural environment, flora and fauna, local economic activities and the evolution of the population. The second exhibit focuses on the history of human occupation of the area, with a dual focus on the indigenous history of the Tehuelche, or Aoniken, pre-Columbian hunter-gatherers, and the history of modern colonization.

From the Collection of the Municipality of Cochrane

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Sip the flavor of Patagonia.

Drinking yerba mate with loved ones and friends is a custom that has been shared for generations within Patagonia. You’ll see this traditional drink being sipped by just about everyone in the

small towns along the Undiscovered Patagonia Circuit.

In fact, the drink is extremely popular in many Latin and South American countries, and exported throughout the rest of the world. Yerba mate is the national drink of Argentina, where, during the latter part of the 1800s, it quickly made its way down from Buenos Aires to the Estancias of Patagonia, becoming a popular warm beverage for farmers working long days in the fields. It provided energy and helped hold off their appetites as they worked. Yerba mate made its way to the Aysén Region of Chile with the migration of early settlers; many of which spent years in Argentina as they worked their way south.

Yerba mate is an infusion made from dried leaves of a cousin of the holly tree, the liex paraguayensis. Yerba mate has been used for thousands of years amongst the indigenous groups of the Southern Cone. The modern tradition dates back to the 1650s, when Jesuit priests first arrived in Paraguay. They noticed indigenous groups harvesting the plants on a small scale, from wild stands. Seeing the potential, they quickly established yerba mate (liex paraguayensis) tree plantations, with intentions of commercializing the drink as a source of stable income. Their efforts spread yerba mate throughout the Andean regions and beyond. Today, yerba mate is grown in southern Brazil, Argentina, and Paraguay and sold throughout South America, the Middle East, and many other regions of the world.

All along the Undiscovered Patagonia Circuit, you’ll notice locals drinking yerba mate. The custom involves people sharing rounds of yerba mate, served hot in a small gourd with a metal or bamboo straw. Don’t be surprised if you are invited to join in, as drinking yerba mate is not only a way to

warm up and wake up; it’s a social event! Offering yerba mate when guests arrive is a common tradition in Patagonia and a great way to break the ice or set the stage for conversation. Yerba mate is rarely sold in restaurants; rather, it is usually served in people’s homes, campsites, farms, and even along the road or trail.

It takes a while to get used to the bitter flavor of yerba mate, but be forewarned, if you are one of the many to acquire the taste, you may find it hard to put down!

Patrick McGarry

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Heat up your journey.

During your travels in the Undiscovered Patagonia Circuit, you’ll encounter what seems a rather strange cultural phenomenon involving people sharing a drink at just about any time of the day – in almost any place - from a small gourd with a straw. What you are witnessing is the cultural habit of drinking

yerba mate, and it’s big in this part of the world! In this activity we’ll help you make your own yerba mate kit, with everything you’ll need to take yerba mate on the road. Once your travels end, your kit will make a great souvenir.

Drinking yerba mate is a huge part of local culture in Patagonia; so much so that during your travels you will encounter entire monuments dedicated to the drink. As you explore Cochrane, you may find yourself in front of a giant hand holding a yerba mate. Or maybe, you’ll make your way to the strange house built in the design of what we have to assume is the owner’s favorite drink!

In this activity we’ll help you make your own yerba mate kit, with everything you’ll need for taking yerba mate on the road. As you travel, gas stations and stores along the route will be happy to fill your new thermos with water perfect for sipping yerba mate.

Your portable kit for drinking yerba mate consists of four key components: 1) a calabaza, or mate cup, 2) a bombilla, or mate straw, 3) a thermos, and 4) yerba mate. Some people carry their components in a stylish leather bag, customized especially for taking yerba mate on the road.

You can find all the components for your kit in Cochrane, before setting out on your journey. We suggest you head to Casa Melero, perhaps Patagonia’s greatest general store, located at Las Golondrinas N°148, on the west side of the Plaza of Arms. In this amazing store, you’ll find everything you need to assemble your portable yerba mate kit. You’ll also find a great variety of fresh fruits and vegetables, a bakery, and a deli. It’s a one-stop shop to buy camping gear, canoes, chain saws, chocolate, fine wines, fishing gear, and almost anything you could ever want or need!

We suggest a thermos fitted with an inside top designed especially for serving yerba mate (yes, they actually make these). Most of the thermoses are fitted with glass insides, but don’t worry; if your inside breaks, almost all the gas stations and stores along the route sell inexpensive replacements. Next, you need to choose your calabaza or mate cup. This can be as simple as a small tin cup covered in colored enamel or as elaborate as a hollowed out gourd, adorned with an infinite variety of hand-crafted copper and silver accents. What if you don’t find the perfect option in Casa Melero?

We suggest you opt for the tin cup version and keep searching for a

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special “keeper” version amongst the artisan shops and kiosks you’ll encounter throughout the Circuit.

The third ingredient of your kit is a metal or bamboo bombilla. Ask for help locating Melero’s selection and if possible, opt for one with a head that can be removed for easy cleaning. Finally, you’ll need your yerba mate. There are a variety of brands and sizes to choose from, but the most popular by far is “Taragüi”, produced in Argentina, by Las Marias. Start with 1 kilo. You can find yerba mate at every store and most gas stations along your route.

Want to learn more about the history and customs surrounding yerba mate? We suggest that you pay a visit to Estancia La Quinta, as you reach the entrance to the town of El Chaltén in Argentina. The owners, the Halvorsen family, have a large collection of historical artifacts related to yerba mate. Mrs. Patricia Halvorsen, the owner, is the granddaughter of one of the original pioneers of the area, Halvor Halvorsen. She is an historian and the author of several books about the history of Argentine Patagonia. She will provide a tour of the Estancia during your stay, during which she’ll share the story of her family and the settlement of this sector of Patagonia. Her tour also includes stories and artifacts from the early explorers and mountaineers in the area of Fitz Roy and

the formation of El Chaltén.

Rodrigo Merino

Evelyn Pfeiffer

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Serving a perfect yerba mate starts with the water.

More than a hot beverage, yerba mate is a grand tradition in Patagonia. This article will teach you all you need to know to

prepare a great mate for yourself and your friends.

It all begins with the water. You’ll need to heat your water to between 70 - 80˚C, or for those without a thermometer handy, the point just BEFORE boiling. Never use water that has boiled! Use the freshest water available, preferably without a lot of added chlorine. Fill your thermos and set it to the side. Next, fill your mate cup or calabaza ¾ full with yerba mate. Fill the cup with the water and place the bombilla into the yerba mate so that it extends to the bottom and rests against one edge. From this point on, the bombilla will remain stationary.

The person who is the server has an important job, which begins with drinking the first cup or two, often called the mate del zonzo (mate of the fool). The goal of drinking these first cups is to test the water temperature and flavor before refilling and passing the hot beverage on to the first person on their right. Each person drinks the entire serving of water before passing the cup back to the server to refill for the next person. This process goes around

and around until the yerba begins to lose its flavor (usually around ten fills, depending on the age of the yerba). At this point the yerba is said to be washed, and the server should dispose of it and refill the mate cup with a new round of yerba.

Some Practical Advice: Yerba Mate is known and loved (by many) for its bitter flavor. Nevertheless, some prefer to add sugar or other flavorings to their yerba mate, which is also quite tasty. Typically when drinking yerba mate with others, the person with the cup will take several quick sips to finish the gourd, and promptly pass it back to the server so that others who are waiting can also have a turn. When a person is done drinking mate, but the group is still passing it around, it is customary to say “thank you” to the server as you return it, indicating that you are done. Once you say thank you, the host will not offer you another round of yerba mate. Nevertheless you are welcome to remain for more conversation!

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Check out beautiful views in Tamango National Reserve.

Tamango National Reserve, just outside Cochrane, is a must amongst the sites within the Undiscovered Patagonia Circuit! Nestled within mountains and bordered by Cochrane Lake and River, this Reserve

offers incredible views and nature, just moments from town.

Tamango National Reserve is a beautiful protected area of 6,925 hectares, nestled between three mountains, Cerros Tamango (1,722 m), Tamanguito (1,485 m), and Húngaro (1,214 m). Cochrane Lake and River form natural limits along the Reserve’s southeast corner.

There are a variety of trails to hike and access to the waters, where you can take boat rides, learn to kayak or simply relax amongst the incredible natural setting. If you like to fish, you will encounter crystal clear waters packed full of rainbow trout (oncorhynchus mikiss). Purchase a license and get in touch with a local guide who can make sure you find the best areas!

The Reserve provides vital habitat for native fauna, assisting the conservation of several threatened and endangered species. Tamango National Reserve plays a critical role in the survival of the endangered huemul deer, (hippocamelus busuicus), which is indigenous to Chile and Argentina, and has an important population within the Reserve. Other native fauna present in the reserve include the red fox (pseudalopex culpaeus), guanaco (lama guanicoe), puma or cougar (puma concolor), hairy armadillo (ahaetophractus aillosus), Patagonic skunk (conepatus humboldtii), chinchilla (lagidium viscacia), and a great variety of small rodents.

Tamango is also the haven for many birds, including Andean condors (vultur gryphus), eagles (geranoaetus melanoleucus), queltehues or southern lapwing (vanellus chilensis) and forest-dwelling birds, like Magellanic woodpeckers (campephilus magellanicus) and Austral parakeets

(enicognathus ferrugineus). In summer, the lakes, rivers and lagoons of the Reserve are visited by migratory birds, including bronze-winged duck (speculanas specularis), yellow-billed teal (anas flavirostris), Chilean or brown pintail (anas georgica spinicauda), flightless steamer duck (tachyeres pteneres), flying steamer duck (tachyeres patachonicus), ruddy-headed goose (chloephaga rubidiceps), and black necked swan (cygnus melancoryphus), which share the waters and shoreline with non-migratory birds, including the great grebe (podiceps major), black-crowned night heron (nycicorax nycticorax) and characteristic ringed kingfisher (ceryle torquata).

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Support the critical work of the Tamango National Reserve.

Tamango National Reserve offers visitors year-round opportunities to hike and enjoy nature, sit and relax, and observe huemul (hippocamelus

bisculus) in their natural habitat. Learn to respect the needs of these unique animals to help the Reserve ensure their conservation and survival.

The Tamango National Reserve is a unique and marvelous spot amongst the Undiscovered Patagonia Circuit. It’s a “must see” when planning your trip. Located in the outskirts of the town of Cochrane, this Reserve offers a range of recreational opportunities, including boat trips, recreational fishing, and exploring the trails.

The most important role of the Reserve is to provide a safe haven for the endangered huemul (hippocamelus bisculus), an endemic Andean deer, whose population has been greatly impacted by centuries of human intervention in their natural habitat. In Chile, the range of the huemul once stretched from Santiago to the Straits of Magellan, but, today it is only found in the Aysén Region, and to a lesser extent, in the Regions of Los Lagos and Magallanes.

The huemul is a short, stocky, brown deer with large ears that can reach 25 cm. The male has horns that regenerate every year. With short legs and strong muscles, the huemul is well-equipped to reach the most remote and wild spots in their Patagonian habitat. Huemules live alone or in small packs, including the edges of the Ice Fields. Their young are born in the summer and remain with their mothers a full year before weaning.

There is a long-standing relationship between huemules and humans, evidenced by Tehuelche Petroglyphs and the discovery of various hunter-gatherer tools crafted from bones and antlers. Archaeologists now believe that huemules were important in the diet of early Patagonian hunter-gatherer groups, including the Tehuelche, Ona, and Aónikenk, who also used bones, antlers and skins to make utensils, jewelry, clothing and shelter.

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The problems between huemules and humans began during the time of colonization. With the use of guns and dogs in hunting, huemules became easy targets. The expansion of ranching, fencing, and especially, the use of fire to clear fields, resulted in less and less natural habitat. To make matters worse, in the early twentieth century, red deer (cervus elaphus) were introduced in some areas, producing further stress within an ever-decreasing territorial space. The red deer were more aggressive and territorial; thus, the habitat of the huemul was reduced further, to small and hidden spaces in the Andes mountains. Today, the huemul is a protected, endangered species. Hunting, trapping, enclosing, possession, transportation and marketing, are all prohibited by law and treaty in Chile, Argentina, and the rest of the world.

The Tamango National Reserve plays a critical role in the protection of remaining habitat and is home to one of the larger remaining populations. In the Visitor Reception Office, you can find more information about this huemul population and learn about the studies and protective measures being taken by CONAF.

It’s important that you join the efforts. Take special care that your presence on the trails and waterways of the Reserve do not interrupt the daily life and habits of the huemul! Remember to limit your interactions to photos, taken at a distance, so that you do not cause stress or shock. Armed with these simple tips you’ll be prepared to enjoy the incredible scenery and special fauna of the Reserve in a responsible and respectful manner.

NOTES

Ian Farmer

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Tips for hiking in Patagonia.

In this article, we offer some suggestions to help make sure your hikes within the mountains and forests of Patagonia are both fun and safe.

The Undiscovered Patagonia Circuit is chock-full of mountains and forests where opportunities for hiking abound! As you are planning, be sure to explore the hiking possibilities in the following sectors:

• Tamango National Reserve• Patagonia Park• Perito Moreno National Park• Los Glaciares National Park• Los Huemules Estancia Nature Reserve• The Crossing between Laguna/Lago del

Desierto and Candelario Mansilla• Laguna Caiquenes Conservation Area• Villa O’Higgins and its Surroundings • Areas Surrounding Caleta Tortel• Monte San Lorenzo

Before heading out, we suggest a little risk management planning and preparation. Hiking in natural and remote locations involves risks that can effect your travels. Frequently the effects produce inconveniences and unexpected changes, however, hiking also involves risks that could lead to accidents with serious consequences. It is important for you to

understand and accept the responsibility for managing these risks.

First, consider the dangers of the activity and environment. Dangers are environmental conditions and circumstances, which increase the likelihood of harm to people. There are two types of dangers: objective and subjective. Objective dangers are those associated with nature; e.g., ice on the road. Subjective dangers are associated with actions taken by people; e.g.,, driving a car at a high speed along this icy road.

The objective dangers associated with hiking in forests and mountainous areas include the presence of forests, canyons, cliffs, snow or ice, avalanches, mud slides, loose rocks, rotten logs, holes, meadows, slippery surfaces, weather conditions, and rivers. Subjective dangers include inexperience, inadequate physical condition or sense of balance, fatigue or illness, lack of knowledge, inadequate equipment, or a bad attempt at crossing a river.

Identification and analysis of risk

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is the second component of your preparation. When you enter the mountains and forests of Patagonia, you mix the objective dangers present in the environment with the subjective dangers you and others add. This combination increases the risk, or probability, of an event that could be damaging to people, equipment, or the environment.

When hiking in Patagonia, some of the risks include the possibility of getting lost, falling from a height, being hit by a falling object, spending the night in the back-country, or being carried down-river. You may think of others, as you consider your plans.

The third dimension involves consideration of the possible consequences associated with the risks you have identified. Some of the consequences related with the risks we’ve presented include damage or loss of your equipment, personal injury, including severe injury or even fatal consequences, delays, changes or an early end of the trip, and even the possibility of drowning. These things are not fun to consider, especially when you are planning a vacation.

The good news is risk can be anticipated and managed! Once

you've taken the time to identify the dangers, risks, and possible consequences, you can decide on, and implement, strategies to minimize the chances of their occurrence. There are a multitude of simple measures for planning, prevention and management of risk associated with hiking in the forests and mountains of Patagonia.

Here's a list to get you started with your safe hiking strategy:

• Hike at a calm pace, without rushing. Plan your distances and routes, with ample time to hike at a relaxed pace.

• Examine rocks and logs before stepping on them. Make sure they are firm and not slippery.

• Use trails where they exist and pay attention to markers and cairns.

• Do not enter forests in high winds. 40 Km/h is a suggested threshold.

• Use a GPS to mark your car, point of departure from established trails, landmarks, etc.

• Do not cross rivers on foot if you are alone, do not have experience, or are not with an experienced guide.

• Carry a trail map. If possible, we suggest having a topographic map that includes contour lines to show the shape and elevation of the area.

Cristian Solis

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One of the possible strategies you can implement is to shift some of the responsibility to an expert! Consider using a professional guide or support service; they will take charge of the logistics and risk management, making your experience more relaxed and enjoyable. Normally, they are experienced with the areas you will be hiking and can provide great information about the resources and history, along with technical skills.

Match appropriate knowledge and equipment with the activity and environment. For example, if you plan on being in the back-country for multiple days, you should have someone in your group with knowledge of weather forecasting. Whether you will be back-packing or day-hiking, always bring appropriate clothing for the changing weather conditions in Patagonia. Some of the equipment you should consider includes a GPS, food, and versions of the kits mentioned in the article about self-sufficient traveling.

Cristian Solis

NOTES

Cristian Solis

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Explore the Tamango National Reserve with this day hike.

This hike, in the Tamango National Reserve, provides a nice sample of the incredible scenery and challenges within the Reserve. It is a simple trekking

circuit that will take you to a scenic overlook of the Cochrane River and Lake, and can be adapted to your preferences of time and distances.

• Type of activity: Trekking• Circuit sector: Tamango National

Reserve• Starting Point: Visitor Reception

Office in the entrance of the Reserve • Ending point: Visitor Reception

Office in the entrance of the Reserve • Considerations: The Tamango

National Reserve is open year-round, with hiking dependent on weather and snow cover. Check trail conditions with rangers. In Cochrane you can arrange for a taxi ride or other transportation. You must pay an entrance fee for Tamango National Reserve.

• Distance: Option 1 is 4 Km, out & back. Option 2 is 8 Km, out & back.

• Duration: From 2 to 6 hours, depending on the selected route.

• Seasonality: Year-round• Difficulty: Suitable for all hikers.

The Hike: Start at the Visitor Reception Office in the entrance area, where you will need to sign in and pay a minimal entrance fee. Leaving the office, continue along the road until reaching the signs marking the trails. Follow the south trail leading to the Cochrane River. It passes through a mixture of forest and clearings and is easy to follow, although in places, it is not clearly marked. At the River, turn toward the west. The trail merges with the gravel road coming from Cochrane and leading to CONAF’s boat dock. When you arrive at the River, you will encounter CONAF’s boat dock (Sector Embarcadero) and camping area, equipped with toilets, tables and a beautiful area for resting and having lunch. This is the turn-around point for Option 1.

Option 2 is to keep following the trail until you reach the Las Correntadas Campground. The trail between the docks and Las Correntadas follows the River’s

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edge with ascents and descents to avoid rock walls. The route highlights details of the river, and is bounded by lots of interesting riparian flora and fauna. After approximately 3½ Km, you will reach the Camping Area, located beside an area of rapids. This is an excellent place to try your hand at fishing and a beautiful place to relax and enjoy. You can spend this night here, tent-camping, if you would like to lengthen your excursion.

In Cochrane, you can encounter several local guides who are experts in the terrain of the area and well versed with the trails of the Reserve. Experiencing Tamango with one of these guides is a great option; they can share insights about the terrain and natural history of the park that are sure to enhance your experience!

Trace Gale Ian Farmer

Trace Gale Trace Gale

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Planning your water-based activities in Patagonia.

This article will help you prepare for a wide range of activities in the incredible waters of Patagonia. We offer some considerations for safely

crossing rivers and streams by foot, vehicle, bicycle or horse.

One of the hallmarks of the Undiscovered Patagonia Circuit is water. You will be amazed at the beauty and absolute abundance of rivers, streams, lakes, ponds, waterfalls and fjords!

The waters of Patagonia offer visitors unique and unforgettable experiences; a wide range of activities and sports. However,

these activities involve risks that can effect your travels. Many times these effects simply produce unexpected inconveniences; however, there are also risks related to water-based activities that could lead to accidents with serious consequences. It is important for you to understand and accept responsibility to manage these risks.

First, consider the dangers of the activity and environment. Dangers are environmental conditions and circumstances that increase the likelihood of harm to people. There are two types of

dangers; objective and subjective. Objective dangers are those associated with nature; e.g., ice on the road. Subjective dangers are associated with actions taken by people; e.g., driving a car at a high speed along this icy road.

The objective dangers associated with water-based activities in Patagonia include deep water, low water temperatures, and

strong currents, obstacles in the water, turbidity and climatic conditions. The subjective dangers include inexperience, inadequate physical condition or sense of balance, fatigue or illness, lack of knowledge, inadequate equipment, or a bad attempt at crossing a river.

Identification and analysis of risk is the second component of your preparation. When you enter into the waters of Patagonia, you mix objective dangers and hazards with the subjective dangers you and others add.

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This combination increases the risk, or probability, of an event in which there could be damage to people, equipment or the environment. The typical activities that take place in the waters of Patagonia include crossing rivers and streams on foot, bicycle, or horse, and other activities like fishing and kayaking. Some of the risks of these activities include the possibility of getting lost, falling into deep water, being carried away by the current, getting your kayak wedged in between rocks or other debris of the river, falling from a height, being hit by a falling object, piercing yourself with a fishhook, or spending the night in the back-country. You may think of others, as you consider your plans.

The third dimension of your planning involves consideration or the possible consequences associated with the risks you have identified. Some of the consequences related with the risks we’ve presented include, damage or loss of equipment, personal injury, including severe or even fatal injury, hypothermia, drowning, delays, changes or an early end of the trip. These things are not fun to consider, especially when you are planning a vacation.

The good news is these risks can be anticipated and managed! Once you've taken the time to identify the dangers, risks, and possible consequences, you can decide on and implement strategies to minimize chances of their occurrence. Here are some tactics and measures to consider in your water-based activity strategy. Always bring appropriate clothing for the changing conditions in Patagonia. With water-based activities, you’ll also want dry-clothes, tools for making a fire and hot water, walking sticks or poles, and the proper equipment,

in good condition. Some of the equipment you should consider includes a GPS, food, and the kits described in the self-sufficient travel article of this guide.

When Crossing Streams & Rivers:

• Carefully evaluate the need to cross.• NEVER cross alone.• Station a person with experience on

the downstream side of the group, where they can help with the crossing.

• Use trekking poles for support as you cross.

• Cross as a group, holding the back or backpack of the person in front of you.

• Loosen the straps and belt pack of your backpack. If you slip, you can remove it.

• Take off your socks and remove the insoles of your boots or shoes, but leave your shoes on.

• If you fall into the water, change into dry clothes immediately. Make a fire to provide warmth, and drink warm liquids.

• Do not attempt new techniques without an experienced guide.

• Do not attempt crossing rivers or streams on horseback, without the assistance of experienced horse guides who are familiar with the route.

• When crossing streams by bike, check the depth and determine your route, before crossing your equipment. When you cross, carry the bike on your shoulder.

When Swimming, Fishing & Kayaking:

• Use proper clothing and technical equipment, e.g., life jackets, wet suits, windbreaker jackets, waders, gloves, walking sticks, helmets, etc.

• Stay close to shore and stick with your group or guide. Never swim, fish, or kayak, alone.

• When fishing in waders, ALWAYS wear a belt so that, if you are carried downstream by the current, your waders will not fill up with water and become a weight.

• It is a good idea to travel with a GPS and map, marking landmarks, as you go.

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Kayak the Cochrane River.

Crystalline waters and an abundant aquatic life make the Cochrane River one of the most beautiful in the area. This activity is technically simple, with only 2 waterfalls on the lower part of the river, posing a fun challenge for kayakers.

• Type of activity: Kayaking• Circuit sector: Cochrane Lake and

River in the Tamango National Reserve• Starting point: Download KMZ

points from the Circuit website.• Ending point: Any of the 3 take-

outs indicated on-line.• Considerations: There is an

entrance fee for the Reserve.• Distance: 6-8 Km• Duration: 5 to 6 hours• Seasonality: October-April• Difficulty: Easy circuit, but requires

instruction or prior knowledge.

The Circuit: This is a simple circuit with different length options and the possibility to paddle through the rapids of the lower part of the river. Build your own route according to your skill level and needs. Depart from CONAF’s boat dock or one of the other river accesses indicated in www.patagoniapordescubrir.com. From your put-in, you can paddle upstream to the lake or downstream, passing through class 2 - 3 rapids. Watch for huemules (hippocamelus

bisulcus) at the river’s edge during your excursion. The first section of the river has practically no current and feels more like a lake. You will only feel stronger currents when you hit the narrows. If you prefer to avoid the white water, you can reach the lake by using the pools and a short 200 m take-out near the dock at Camping Las Correntadas.

There are also possibilities for people with no equipment or kayaking experience. For the past 12 years, Cochrane’s Kayak Club Escualos has taught kids between the ages of 4 and 18 to kayak on the Cochrane and Baker Rivers. During Chile’s summer they offer courses for beginners at their Base, from 18h00 to 20h00, Mondays, Wednesdays, and Fridays. Normally, travelers can join in. The Club has the necessary equipment and instructors to teach beginners and help advanced kayakers develop new skills. It is also possible to contact a guide/instructor for private sessions. Check with the Club for a list of guides.

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Land the big one on Cochrane’s waters.

Cochrane Lake and River border the Tamango National Reserve and are excellent places for practicing recreational fishing.

Your hardest decision is finding the perfect spot!

• Type of activity: Recreational fishing from land or by boat.

• Circuit sector: Cochrane River and Lake in the Tamango National Reserve

• Starting point: Cochrane River• Ending point: Cochrane River• Considerations: In the Region of

Aysén, you must have a valid fishing license. Visit www.sernapesca.cl, to purchase a license on-line. There is an entrance fee for fishing within the Tamango National Reserve, payable at CONAF’s office, when you enter. Make sure you properly disinfect your equipment to prevent the spread of the Didymo. Learn more at www.didymo.cl.

• Distance: Depends on preferences.• Activity: Variable, up to a whole day.• Seasonality: mid-September - April.• Difficulty: Suitable for all.

The Circuit: Fishing is a fun way to explore the area and learn more about the ecosystem. Fishing provides great opportunities for entomology observation, combining sport with science. You can spend a great afternoon searching for the places where mayfly and caddisfly nymphs appear during the spring and summer to tempt the trout that inhabit these waters.

Cochrane Lake is located 10 Km east of Cochrane. The Cochrane River begins at the lake and runs southeast. Both offer great land and boat fishing opportunities.

Before you go, familiarize yourself with the rules and limits established for recreational fishing; which, you can find in the website of Sernapesca (www.sernapesca.cl). We suggest you contact one of the many guides in Cochrane that specialize in recreational fishing. These guides can arrange and lead your excursion and normally have

equipment to rent, for small groups. And, if you want to arrange a multi-day fishing trip, there are many campsites and cabins available.

When changing between waterways or at the end of each fishing day, please remove, clean, and dry equipment in the repositories available in the Reserve’s Administration Area. This protocol helps protect the waters of Patagonia against the spread of the Didymo Algae (didymosphenia geminata), an invasive species that has taken over many rivers around the world. The Didymo plankton puts a green slime on rocks in the river and depletes the oxygen available for fish; thus reducing biodiversity.

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Preparing for the climate of Patagonia.

The weather in Patagonia is unpredictable – it changes rapidly and is prone to numerous conditions in short periods of time, prompting the popular local saying,

“Be prepared to experience all four seasons in one day.” Here are some pointers!

When hiking, biking or practicing water sports in Patagonia, it is important to be prepared with layers of clothing that allow you to add or subtract, based on the ever-changing conditions.

For most activities, including hiking, you’ll first want a thin, inner-layer of polyester or polypropylene to help insulate and keep you dry. Next, we suggest a layer of fleece or wool, for warmth, and finally, an outside layer to protect you from water, wind and rain. You’ll want good, well broken-in boots, wool or polypropylene socks, extra shoes for time in camp, a wool cap, sunglasses and gloves.

If you are back-packing, horse-trekking, kayaking, or canoeing, the goal for keeping safe is staying warm and dry. Line backpacks and dry-bags with an extra plastic trash bag and then pack your clothes, sleeping bags, etc, in smaller plastic bags inside. Be prepared with the following items: first aid kit, whistle, head lamp, map and compass, gators, specialized gear for your chosen activity, a water bottle and snacks.

In Patagonia, people partake in outdoor activities year-round; but always with respect and consideration of weather, including wind and snow cover. Check the latest forecasts, trail, and water conditions with experts, e.g., rangers, port authorities, or police, before starting your activities. Always be prepared to put activities on hold, if the conditions aren’t suitable. Register your plans with Park or Reserve officials and a friend back home; especially if you will be out of contact for multiple days.

The amount of daylight you will encounter varies significantly in these latitudes (49˚ 20’ S). For example, towards the end of September, you are likely to encounter around 12 hours of daylight each day. Just three months later, around Christmas, you will experience approximately 18 hours of sunlight. Daily sunlight hours gradually shorten during the fall months in Patagonia, reaching a low in midwinter (July) of approximately 8 hours per day. This variable affects outdoor activities and should be considered when forming your plans.

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Discover Patagonia with your kids.

If you are hiking as a family, there are some tips to keep in mind, suggested by Miguel A. Alonso in his book, “Trekking en Chaltén

& Lago del Desierto”. (2003, www.LosGlaciares.com)

Touring the Undiscovered Patagonia Circuit as a family? We suggest picking up a copy of Miguel A. Alonso’s book, “Trekking en Chaltén & Lago del Desierto” (2003, www.LosGlaciares.com Publishers). He has great tips and pointers, including overviews of the popular hikes around the northern sector of Los Glaciares National Park. Until your copy arrives, here is a sample of the great pointers he suggests for hiking with kids:

• With kids, it’s important to take frequent rests.

• For children between 2 and 4 years of age, you need to rest every 10 to 15 minutes and not plan on hiking more than 3 Km.

• For children 5 to 7 years of age, you should plan hikes of no more than 5 to 7 Km and plan to stop for a rest every 30 to 45 minutes.

• For kids between 8-10 years of age, hike no more than 13 Km per day, stopping at least once each hour.

• Children need to put on warm layers sooner than adults – they lose body heat faster and even though you may not yet feel the cold, they need to layer up! A wool cap is essential for kids – 20% of body heat is lost through their heads.

• Lastly, remember that if your kids are carrying a backpack, the weight of the pack should not exceed 20% of their total body weight.

NOTES

Daniel Torres

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Explore the Tamango National Reserve with this great multisport day-circuit!

This activity presents a multisport experience which combines a boat trip down the Cochrane River and a return trek through the Tamango National Reserve.

During the circuit, you will have a great chance to spot huemules and other native wildlife. There are options for recreational fishing and camping, if desired.

• Activity Type: Multisport circuit, combining a boat tour, trekking in the Tamango National Reserve and options for camping & recreational fishing.

• Circuit Sector: Tamango National Reserve

• Starting Point: Main dock of the Reserve (Embarcadero)

• Ending Point: Main dock of the Reserve (Embarcadero)

• Reservations: There are different guides that can accompany you or you can complete it yourself, with the CONAF Park Ranger assisting for the boat trip portion. We strongly advise reserving the boat service the day before, through your choice of service providers.

• Considerations: At the entrance, you will need to pay the Reserve’s fee.

• Distance: Approximately 5 Km by boat and a hike of 4.5 - 11 Km, depending on your preferences.

• Duration: 2 - 8 hours• Seasonality: October – April• Difficulty: This activity can be

tailored to a variety of limitations and interests of each group.

The Route: From Cochrane, take the side road heading to the Tamango National Reserve. The road ends at the CONAF docks, 6 Km from the city. Begin the multisport circuit with a boat trip down the Cochrane River, guided by a CONAF ranger or a local guide. The boat trip is both fun and safe, providing a unique perspective of the Reserve that will connect you with the river at a more personal level. You’ll follow the course of the river, enjoying the vibrant

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blues and turquoise tones of the crystal clear waters and the native forests along the shores. If you are lucky, you may spot the “star” inhabitant of the reserve, the huemul (hippocamelus bisulcus). Remember to bring your camera so you can take advantage of the trip to capture some unforgettable shots. Ask the captain to let you off in the Sector Las Correntadas, alongside the CONAF Camping Area. This is a great place to practice your fishing skills and a beautiful spot for a rest. If you’d like, you can arrange to camp here for the night.

When you are ready, hit the trail for your return hike, following the shoreline of the river. There are some brief ascents and descents along the trail, which lead over rocky areas. The trail will provide an entirely different experience of the Reserve, affording up-close views of the flora and fauna. After approximately 3.5 Km, you’ll be back at the starting point of the circuit, in the Embarcadero Sector. This version of the circuit is perfect for families!

If you want a bit more exercise, you can opt to end your boat trip a bit further down river (7.5 Km) in the Paleta Beach sector of Cochrane Lake, where CONAF has some cabins. This is an outstanding site to spot huemules. This longer trip provides you with the option of an 11 Km return hike, following a trail which climbs to a small Ranger Station, called El Húngaro. From this

Station, you can either hike down to the Visitor Reception Center in the Entrance to the Reserve, or make your way back to Cochrane along the gravel road you will encounter.

The views of the lake and the river, plus the opportunity of spotting huemules along the trail, make this option an excellent alternative for those looking to combine a bit more exercise with the special landscapes and milestones of Tamango. Although both of the trails for these hikes are clearly marked, you should be attentive to where you are and stay on the trail.

NOTES

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Experience the Baker River.

This 55 Km biking or driving circuit combines views from both banks of the Baker River making use of the historic hand-operated ferries and suspension

bridges, still essential for people living nearby. The tour covers one of the sectors that could eventually be flooded by the proposed hydroelectric projects.

The Baker River has its source in the southern end of Bertrand Lake. It is the second-longest and most powerful river in Chile (the longest being the Loa River). The surface of its hydrographic basin is 26,726 Km² and creates a unique and important ecosystem where endemic plants grow and reproduce in pristine and diverse landscapes.

The turquoise color of the river's water is due to the sediments that come from the impressive glaciers of the Northern Patagonian Ice Fields, which give birth to the rivers that flow into General Carrera and Bertrand Lakes. As the Baker River makes its way to the fiords it is fed by a number of other rivers, including the Cochrane, Chacabuco, Nef, Ñadis, Del Salto, Vargas and Colonia Glaciers.

• Activity Type: Vehicle or Bike Tour• Sector: Baker River, near Cochrane• Starting Point: City of Cochrane• Ending Point: City of Cochrane• Considerations: The circuit crosses

the Baker River via a ferry which is dependent on the operator's schedule and conditions of the River. You should plan to cross from 10h00 to 12h00 or from 15h00 to 17h00. Contact the municipality or the police in Cochrane to check current road conditions. The circuit travels through gravel back roads which can be in rough shape at times. On the west bank of the river, there are no services. Help, in the event of a flat tire or other difficulties, depends on you and/or the good will of passersby. Plan on being self-sufficient.

• Distance: 55 Km• Duration: 2 - 6 hours.• Seasonality: All year, depending on

weather, river, and road conditions.• Difficulty: This is a great driving

circuit for 4x4 vehicles. For cyclists this is a challenging one-day route but there are places along the way where you can stop and camp for the night.

The Circuit: Departing north from Cochrane on the Carretera Austral, travel

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8 Km before turning off to the left (there is a sign indicating Balsa Baker), and heading down to the riverside. At the crossroads, you will encounter panoramic views of the Baker River, Valley Grande, and Colonia Glacier.

Due to the great force of the Baker River, the construction of bridges to connect rural areas is costly and can only be accomplished in certain places. In many cases a more feasible solution involved building a pair of docks and installing a ferry and operator. Such was the case with the Baker Ferry, which you will encounter in the sector named Balsa del Baker. Here, government ferries provide transport for vehicles from one side of the river to the other.

The ferry operators are experts in the River and their job, allowing you to simply enjoy the experience and marvel at how ferries with no motors can cross using only the force of the River's flow. It is interesting to see how the operator handles the cables that join the raft to the main cable hanging across the river.

Once you reach the other side, continue upriver, following the road along the shores for 16½ Km, towards El Manzano Bridge. During the journey there are spectacular views of the Baker River, Valley Chacabuco, and all the surrounding mountains. Some parts of the road can be rough so relax and take your time. There are several places to get out of the car, take pictures, and enjoy the landscape.

Along the south bank of the Baker River, after crossing El Manzano Bridge, you will pass through La Violeta farm. This farm is rich in native species of flora, mainly ñire (nothofagus antarcticus), lenga (nothofagus pumilio) and coigüe (nothofagus dombeyi). It offers great spots for observing fauna, like the red fox (lycalopex culpaeus), eagles (geranoaetus melanoleucus) and Andean condors (vultur gryphus). The side road leads back to the Carretera Austral, (Route 7), where you can head south (right) for 28 Km, returning to your starting point in Cochrane.

This is a great first excursion when you begin to travel through the Circuit. Returning along the Carretera Austral towards Cochrane, watch for Route 83 on the left, after around 11 Km. Taking this turn-off connects you with the middle of Section 1A of the first Stage of the Undiscovered Patagonia Circuit and the Chacabuco Valley.

Trace Gale

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Introducing Patagonia’s newest Park.

As you begin your journey through Undiscovered Patagonia, you will soon find yourself meandering through Valley Chacabuco, an immense track of privately protected lands, marked for restoration, conservation and

creation of the future Patagonia National Park. Conservación Patagónica, the owner, has been working since 2004 to restore massive stretches

of Grasslands, build camping areas and trails, and a state-of-the-art Visitor Center powered with energy derived from renewable sources.

The landscape includes vast expanses of Patagonian Grasslands, magnificent Austral Steppe, dense beech forests and high Andean peaks. There are countless rivers and streams, wetlands, lagoons and lakes. Together, these varied natural features offer a safe haven for a vast diversity of fauna, ranging from the nearly extinct huemul (hippocamelus bisulcus), a prolific guanaco population (lama guanicoe), and all kinds of smaller creatures, e.g., the large four-eyed frog (pleurodema bufonina).

Over the centuries, these lands have had a variety of human inhabitants, including indigenous hunter–gatherer tribes and more recently, large ranching companies. These caretakers have intertwined their enormous anthropological legacy with the natural history of the area. For example, during most of the 1900s, this area was utilized as an enormous (70,000 ha) Estancia to raise sheep and cattle. The ranching operations took a heavy toll on the ecosystem, leaving massive impacts, e.g., erosion, deforestation, road-building, fencing,, fire damage, non-native animal species, and invasive plants.

In 2004, former Patagonia Clothing Company CEO, Kristine Tompkins, bought the Estancia through the non-profit foundation, Conservación Patagónica. Her aim was to restore the natural ecosystem’s balance and permanently protect it. Since that time, the Foundation, helped by thousands of volunteers, has been working to restore the lands to pre-Estancia conditions. They have removed 20,000 sheep, 3,000 head of cattle and more than 540 Km of fencing.

Their protection strategy includes you. By establishing the area as Patagonia Park, they hope to generate a new and more sustainable economic engine in the sector. They are building state-of-the-art camping areas, trails, and a Visitor's Center powered with energy derived from renewable sources.

Their vision extends further than the massive boundaries of their own lands. Patagonia Park, aka, Valley Chacabuco, sits in between two existing Chilean National Reserves; Lago Jeinimeni National Reserve and Tamango. Once the Valley Chacabuco work is complete, the vision is to join these lands with the two Chilean National Reserves through a donation of historic proportions that would create one enormous National Park with nearly 245,000 protected and connected hectares for wildlife conservation and wilderness style recreation.

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A new legacy for an ancient Valley.

The history of the Chacabuco Valley has intertwined nature and human for millenniums. First, hunter-gatherer tribes roamed the area in search of food and refuge. Later, ranching consumed almost the entire length of the valley with an enormous Estancia spreading across 70,000 hectares! Today, a new chapter is being written. And, what of the future? Your visit could play an important role.

Preliminary archaeological study has identified more than three hundred sites of interest in the Chacabuco Valley. These sites provide evidence that hunter-gatherer groups moved through the Valley for thousands of years, using this area as a transit route from the eastern steppe to the southwest shores of General Carrera Lake.

Millenniums later, in 1915, Don Lucas Bridges began a new chapter for the Chacabuco Valley, moving thousands of sheep from the Steppe in Argentina to establish Estancia Valley Chacabuco, which soon became one of the largest livestock ranches in Chile.

Like most large ranchers of his generation, he was armed with great determination, but little ecological awareness. He implemented a series of management actions for the Estancia. They provided economic growth for the local area for a number of decades. But, like many “empires”, his actions left devastating impacts on the local environment; their scope only now being

understood.

Bridges and his workers widened and improved an existing path connecting the Steppe with the Pacific coast. This enabled the passage of mules that transported thousands of kilos of wool, each year. Interestingly, theorists are considering the possibility that this same path was used by the hunter-gatherer groups in earlier millenniums.

To protect the Estancia’s investments (30,000+ sheep), employees hunted the native cougars that frequently preyed on flocks. Hunting eventually put this animal in danger of extinction.

To keep their livestock contained and organized, they constructed an elaborate maze of fencing, using more than 6,000 strands of wire. Unfortunately, this maze was a significant hurdle for native species like huemul (hippocamelus bisulcus) and guanaco (lama guanicoe), who thrived on

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free range. Encroachment forced native fauna into ever smaller areas, pressuring their populations. Stresses were further accentuated by hunting and the dogs that worked the ranch.

During most of the twentieth century, ranching was the dominant activity in the Chacabuco Valley. Ranching provided jobs for 100s of people in the area during those years. However, when increasing wool production in Australia began to lower international prices for wool, Patagonia ranching became increasingly less profitable. Strategies for recovering losses were based on the accumulation of yet more sheep; thus, improving the efficiency of the lands in producing wool. Unfortunately, this practice resulted in overgrazing of the lands and further degradation of the soils and ecosystems. The practice proved unsustainable, and by the late 1990s, the Estancia was no longer a viable proposition.

In 2004, a new legacy began for the Chacabuco Valley. Conservación Patagónica, an international non-profit conservation organization, purchased the Valley Chacabuco Estancia. They gradually sold off the livestock and began work to restore the soils, native plants and wildlife. Their vision is

to eventually link this site with two adjoining National Reserves, Tamango and Jeinimeni, so that together, these three Protected Areas can form one enormous Patagonia National Park. To support this vision, they are creating critical park infrastructure, including camping areas, a restaurant, and hiking trails.

As progress continues toward the creation of their vision for a Patagonia National Park, the scars created by fences, livestock trails, and overgrazing, have begun to close. Visitation is creating a new economic future for both Valley Chacabuco and the surrounding areas. Former Estancia workers, scientists, and Park managers are now joining forces around the changing land management strategies of Valley Chacabuco. Your visit is important to their mission.

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Hiking in Valley Chacabuco.

Conservación Patagónica has completed three official hiking routes, which provide visitors the opportunity to experience a variety of areas within Patagonia Park. Hiking off-trail is also permitted. Check-in with

the Administration team to share your plans and obtain permission.

Hiking in Valley Chacabuco provides unique opportunities to observe the changes in an ecosystem as it is restored to its natural state. Patagonia Park has, as of October 2012, completed three official hiking routes. These trails provide visitors a variety of hiking experiences within the western end of the Chacabuco Valley. You will be immersed in the landscapes of the Patagonian Grasslands and native transitional forests. Breathtaking views of the valley and the high Andean peaks fill the horizon. You will encounter infinite rivers and streams, wetlands, lakes and lagoons. A variety of fauna make their home in this sector, including the huemul (hippocamelus bisulcus), a native deer in danger of extinction, and hundreds of herds of guanaco (lama guanicoe).

Your walks will take you through both the natural and anthropological history of the Park. You’ll pass through the historic areas of the ranch, where you will see examples of a typical Estancia family cemetery; yet, be constantly surrounded by the now-thriving

characteristics of the Patagonian Grassland ecosystem in its natural state. And this is only the beginning. Check with the Park Visitor Center when you arrive to see what new trails have been completed.

The developed routes include a short hike to a historic cemetery; a slightly longer hike passing through wetlands and lagoons, and the more challenging Laguna Altas Trekking Loop, which provides a longer, more physical, full day hike. Trails depart from either the Patagonia Park Visitor Area or at the Westwinds Campground, a nearby area designed for tent camping, with hot showers and an area for washing dishes. The trekking season is year-round, depending on weather and snow cover. We recommend checking on the trail conditions with the Administration Center before starting each hike.

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A walk to the Cisnes Lagoon in Patagonia Park.

Great 2-3 hour walking trail with lots of native fauna and bird life. Perfect for the whole family. It’s close to the road – but you’ll

feel like you’ve escaped into wilderness and pure nature!

• Activity Type: Hiking & Birding• Sector: Area surrounding the

Patagonia Park Visitor Center in the Chacabuco Valley

• Starting Point: Park Visitor Center • Ending Point: Park Visitor Center• Considerations: Visitors should

check-in with park administration staff, let them know you are hiking, learn about the Conservación Patagónica project, inquire about trail conditions and request a complimentary trail map.

• Distance: 7 Km• Duration: 2 – 3 hours• Seasonality: Year Round• Difficulty: Apt for all, including kids.

The Route: From the Visitor Center, follow the main road, passing along the airstrip. After crossing the field, the road starts to climb slightly and on the left side, you will see a low rock fence. As you climb, the road passes through wetlands and lagoons until you reach a small, unnamed lagoon. From the shores of this lagoon, you’ll have a great view of the Cisnes Lagoon, where you can always spot birds. We recommend you bring along binoculars, a field guide and patience! The birds in this area include the yellow-billed teal (anas flavirostris), Chilean or brown pintail (anas

georgica spinicauda), bronze-winged duck (speculanas specularis) and black-necked Swans (cygnus melancoryphus), which build their nests along the shore. On the way back, you’ll pass the area where the lagoon drains into a brook, and follow alongside for a while, before heading across the grassy field, to the Visitor Center.

Rodrigo Merino

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Walk the cemetery circuit in Patagonia Park.

This easy 2 hour walk provides the opportunity to observe wildlife and gain an interesting perspective of pioneer heritage.

• Activity Type: Hiking• Sector: Area surrounding the

Patagonia Park Visitor Center in the Chacabuco Valley

• Starting Point: Park Visitor Center• Ending Point: Park Visitor Center• Considerations: Visitors should


• Length of trail: 6 Km• Duration of Activity: 2 hours• Season: All year.• Difficulty: This is a route for

everyone, including young children.

The Route: This simple circuit can be done on foot or bicycle; even with a baby carriage. Leaving the Visitor Center, take the road that crosses the creek. During this first part of the route you will be able to see the Park infrastructure being developed, including a state-of-the-art Visitor Center, Administrative Center, and restaurant. Sustainable construction practices used durable materials that require with minimal maintenance. Many of the materials are native to the area, e.g., rocks from the same valley. Other sustainable choices include the election of copper roofs, radiant heating systems, passive solar lighting and water treatment using non-conventional energy options.

A few meters from the Lodge at Valley Chacabuco, you will encounter the old cemetery for the Estancia. During the early days of ranching in this area, the town of Cochrane was still being constructed. Many of the workers of the Estancia lived with their families, here in the valley. During these

years, the Estancia functioned similar to a town; it provided stores, housing, meeting areas and even a small school. The historic cemetery is one of several burial sites in the Valley; some more formal than others. It contains the graves of some of the Estancia employees and their families.

Today the cemetery is no longer used; however, some of the earlier traditions remain. For example, employees of the Park still have the option of sending their children to a small school, here in the Valley, enabling them to be much closer and even come home for lunch as a family, which is a custom in this sector of Patagonia. The current school uses an Estancia building, which was once a barn for sheep-shearing. It is one of the few original buildings still standing.

Opposite the cemetery you'll notice a grouping of workshops that assist the work of the park. Behind these facilities, the trail continues, passing through an open area of Grasslands and streams, heading up to the Westwinds Camping Area. This is a good place to see guanaco (lama guanicoe), and several species of birds, including buffed-neck Ibis (theristicus caudatus), southern lapwing (vanellus chilensis), and ruddy-headed goose (chloephaga rubidiceps). From the camping area, the route follows the gravel road, along the base of Cerro Tamanguito, returning to the Visitor Center.

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Hike the Altas Lagoons circuit in Patagonia Park.

This challenging full-day trail provides spectacular views and the chance to see huemul (hippocamelus bisulcus) and guanaco (lama guanicoe).

• Activity Type: Hiking• Sector: Chacabuco Valley• Starting Point: Park Visitor Center • Ending Point: Park Visitor Center• Considerations: Visitors should


• Length of trail: 20 Km• Duration of Activity: 6 - 8 hours• Season: All year• Difficulty: A full day of hiking with

steep ascents and descents. Hiking shoes and poles are recommended.

The Route: This is a great trail for experienced hikers seeking a full day of exercise. We recommend camping in the Westwinds Camping Area so you can get an early start and take the entire day for this hike. The route is a loop. You can start from either the Visitor Center or the Westwinds Camping Area and go in either direction; we recommend doing it counterclockwise.

Download the KMZ points for this hike from the Undiscovered Patagonia Website or pick up a map when you are in the Visitor Center. About 3 Km from the Center, the trail begins a steep ascent up the north slope of Cerro Tamanguito through areas of scrub forest. You can add an ascent to the summit of Cerro Tamanguito (1560 m) if you like; but, allow an extra hour or two for this detour. Passing Cerro Tamango to the east, the route winds between lakes, huge boulders, rock walls and forests. It's a beautiful sector and a great place to take a break and have lunch. Don’t be surprised to see guanaco (lama guanicoe), eagles (geranoaetus melanoleucus), and Andean condors (vultur gryphus), during your break. Leaving the sector of forests and lagoons, you will have a spectacular view of the Chacabuco Valley. From here the route has a steep descent for a bit before leveling off with a gentler slope, through forests and then open areas of Grasslands. As you reach the Valley, you'll enter a wetland area before meeting up with the road between Westwinds Camping and the Visitor Center.

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Celebrate the Route of the Huemul Festival.

Each year, on the third weekend of January, a festival is held to celebrate the huemul (hippocamelus bisulcus) and the critical habitat of Valley Chacabuco

and the Tamango and Tamanguito mountains. The main event is a 2 day group trek called the “Route of the Huemul”. The hike attracts local, national and international participants who love ecotourism and nature.

Patagonia Park, in Valley Chacabuco, lies on the other side of the Tamango/ Tamanguito mountains from the Tamango National Reserve and the town of Cochrane. From the vantage point of the huemul (hippocamelus bisulcus), the joined territory of the two protected areas represents one of the largest ranges of habitat remaining in Patagonia.

The Route of the Huemul Festival was created to celebrate and promote understanding of this endangered animal, which is of high priority for Conservación Patagónica and emblematic of the Tamango National Reserve and the Cochrane Municipality. Normally, the event takes place during the third weekend in January and includes a variety of activities, like film

premiers, lectures, cultural events, typical gastronomy and music. The main event of the festival is a 2 day, 26 Km trek that travels between Patagonia Park and the Tamango National Reserve.

Each year the hike gains in popularity, gathering together a large number of national and international participants who love ecotourism and outdoor life. In 2012, close to 100 people participated in the trek. This is the upper limit imposed by the conservation entities involved in the event. So, if you are interested in joining the group, we suggest contacting the Municipality of Cochrane well in advance, to reserve your limited space. You can hike the Route of the Huemul independently during the rest of the year ; many of the area’s specialized guides are experts in the route.

This brief passage, written for the Conservación Patagónica blog provides a good perspective of the spirit of the 2012 hike:

“Seven-year-old Juanjo, the youngest to hike this year, had never gone hiking before he set out on the 26 Km trek. Neither had his mother, who was eager to introduce her son to the nature around their hometown but had little outdoor experience herself. Both of them, along with numerous others, ended the route with sore muscles but newfound interest in exploring the nature reserves out their back door. For hikers with more experience, the Ruta represents less a physical challenge than a unique chance to make new friends and share stories. We split the hundred hikers into eight groups, which hike together both days.”

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Backstage with Hippocamelus bisulcus.

Just who is this guy and what’s his story? Read this “tell-all” to find out the real deal.

The Huemul, or South Andean Deer, (hippocamelus bisulcus), is a mammal of the family Cervidae. Its primary habitat is the Andes, in Chile and Argentina. The huemul has a stocky build and short legs. Bucks can

reach 165 cm in length, while does are a little smaller. Their thick and dense coat is beige or dark-brown, depending on the season. Their ears and tail are from 4 to 8 cm in length. The bucks have forked antlers that can reach 30 cm in length. They weigh between 40 and 100 Kg. The huemul is an herbivorous animal which feeds on bushes, grasses and tree sprouts, as well as the lichen found on rocks in mountainous areas. During much of the year, the male huemul ranges alone, while the does and their fawns live in small family groups of 2 or 3; however, this depends on the time of year and the mating cycle.

In the 16th century, huemules inhabited the entire southern region of South America, beginning at latitude, 34º S, within the Mendoza Province in Argentina and the Metropolitan Region of Chile. Their habitat extended all the way to the Strait of Magellan. Over the next 400 years, human encroachment within the huemul’s natural habitat produced profound impacts. Human settlement was the

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catalyst for deforestation, fragmentation of habitat following the construction of roads, and further threats resulting from the introduction of non-native species like white-tailed deer (odocoileus virginianus) and red deer (cervus elaphus) for sport hunting, the presence of livestock, dogs, and poaching.

By the end of the 20th century, scientists estimated the total huemul population to be between 1000 and 2000 animals, which are concentrated in large part, in the Andean or sub-Antarctic forests of Patagonia. Currently, the huemul is classified as endangered in the Chilean and Argentinean Red Data Books of Vertebrates and is also listed in the Appendix I of CITES and UNEP/CMS Conventions. This species has been protected by law since 1929 in Chile, and 1989 in parts of Argentina; however, experts believe that further action must be taken. While huemul conservation and study are primary objectives for 13 national parks of Chile and 6 in Argentina, resources are extremely limited. More research is needed and in particular, Visitor Use Plans must be implemented for priority Protected Areas. Thus, the efforts taking place in Patagonia Park and the Tamango National Reserve are of paramount importance for the survival of the huemul species. Source: Jiménez, J., Guineo, G., Corti, P, Smith, J.A., Flueck, W., Vila, A., Gizejewski, Z., Gill, R., McShea, B. & Geist, V. 2008. Hippocamelus bisulcus. In: IUCN 2012. IUCN Red List of Threatened Species. Version 2012.1. www.iucnredlist.org.

NOTES

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Backpacking through Huemul country.

You can hike the Route of the Huemul at any time during the season, alone or with a specialized guide. This article

explains the basic route for this great 2 day hike.

• Activity Type: Overnight Trekking• Sector: Valley Chacabuco y the

Tamango National Reserve• Starting Point: Patagonia Park,

Valley Chacabuco• Ending Point: Visitor Reception

Office, Tamango National Reserve • Considerations: We recommend

that you register your plans with the Patagonia Park Visitor Center in Valley Chacabuco and also with the CONAF offices in Cochrane, where you will need to pay the entrance fees for the Reserve. You should carry all your equipment and food and coordinate transport to return to Cochrane from the Visitor Reception Office, Tamango National Reserve.

• Distance: 25 Km (Day 1 - 14 Km + Day 2 - 11 Km.)

• Duration: 2 days hiking, 1 night camping

• Seasonality: November - April• Difficulty: You should be in good

health and have experience with back country trekking and charting routes for unmarked trails.

Day 1 (14 Km): The hike starts from the Westwinds Camping area or the Visitors Center and follow the same trail as the Altas Lagoons Hike, ascending along the edge of Cerro Tamanguito. In this area it is common to see herds of guanaco (lama guanicoe). After hiking approximately 4 Km, you will the see a sign which reads “Km 16”. Head east, at this sign, following the route toward the Escondida Lagoon.

You’ll pass through meadows, healthy forests and burnt forests, generally making your way south. During this section, you will be in the heart of huemul (hippocamelus bisulcus) habitat. Remember to tread lightly.

If you observe huemul, do not approach or disturb their natural activities. As you descend to Cochrane Lake the horizon will be filled with spectacular views of Cerro San Lorenzo and Argentina. Toward the end of the day you will reach the Paleta Beach, along the shores of the lake, where you can camp or stay in the CONAF cabins (arrange your reservation in advance). It is very common to share this camping area with huemules.

Day 2 (11 Km): Follow the trail which climbs to a small shelter and then levels off on the way to the Visitor Reception Center in the entrance of the Reserve. When you reach the Center, you can keep going along the gravel road back to Cochrane. You can also coordinate a taxi or other transport to meet you at the Reserve.

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Explore the Casa de Piedra Area in Patagonia Park.

As you make your way down the Valley, take a break from the road for this off-trail trek to the top of the mountain near the Casa de Piedra Puesto (Stone House)

that affords a distinct vantage point, making it easy to imagine the ancient movements of the hunter-gatherer tribes who hunted and traversed these lands.

• Activity Type: Off-trail Hiking • Circuit Sector: Near the

confluence of the Aviles and Chacabuco Rivers, where the Park is developing Stone House Camping Area, which is scheduled to open in 2013.

• Starting Location: Stone House Camping Area

• Ending Location: Stone House Camping Area

• Considerations: Register with the Park’s Visitor Center, informing them of plans to hike and/or camp. KMZ reference points are available in the Undiscovered Patagonia website.

• Distance: Approximately 6 Km• Duration of Activity: 3 - 6 hours• Seasonality: All year• Difficulty: This hike involves steep

ascents and descents. There is no marked trail. Hikers should be in good physical condition & have experience with GPS or compass hiking.

The Route: The route begins at the stone bridge over the Chacabuco River near the new Stone House Camping Area, projected to be ready in 2013. Keep in mind, this is not an established or marked trail; it is simply a GPS Route, which provides a reference for off-trail hikers. After parking your car or bike out of the way of traffic, orient yourself, take a starting point on your compass or GPS and begin hiking, diagonally up, on the east side of the hill, following the natural paths created by wildlife and ancient glaciation.

The glaciation tracks begin faintly as you climb through scrub and erratic trees; but, become increasingly clear, allowing you to easily imagine a time when this hill and the entire Valley were covered by slowly moving ice. The top, (1,050 m), affords a privileged view of Valley Chacabuco, foreshadowing secrets to be revealed in the next Sections and Stage 2 of the Circuit.

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As you look out over the Valley, consider the possibility that thousands of years before, a young hunter stood in the same place as you, hoping to spot guanaco or huemul. Evidence indicates the presence of hunter-gatherer tribes in the Valley between 800 and at least 3,000 years ago. Little is known of their life in these sectors. Archaeologists have conducted surface surveying and a few excavations, but much work is still pending. Their studies have uncovered several Tehuelche camps; but, it is unclear whether they were simply passing through looking for a route to the sea, hunting, or using the Valley as a permanent camp.

As you move into the next Sections of the Undiscovered Patagonia Circuit, you can visit and learn more about the ancient Tehuelche culture through important archaeological sites, including the UNESCO World Heritage Site, the Cueva de las Manos, near Bajo Caracoles, Argentina. Hipolito Yrigoyen, Argentina (or Lago Posadas, as it is popularly referred), is home to another important rock art and archaeological site, the Cerro de los Indios, which many argue is pivotal for the understanding of ancient hunter-gatherer cultures in Patagonia. Its red rock walls change color with the light of dusk, providing dramatic sunset views

and great photography. Cerro de los Indios provided shelter for hunter gather tribes, who left their mark, through paintings and petroglyphs, painted more than 3,800 years ago.

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Crossing borders between Chile and Argentina.

There are two border crossings within the Circuit: Paso Roballos - Rodolfo Roballos and Paso Laguna/Lago del Desierto - Paso Hito IV-0-B (Paso

Dos Lagunas). Crossing the border between Chile and Argentina is not complicated and this guide will help avoid delays and frustrations.

There are four components to consider with regard to the border crossing protocols between Argentina and Chile: 1) Security, 2) Immigration, 3) Customs, and 4) Animal-Agricultural Control.

1) The role of Security Control is to collect and verify the identification and legal histories of travelers as they leave one country and enter another. In Chile, these protocols are managed by the Investigations Police, (PDI), however, PDI staffs are only present in the busiest border crossings. In smaller, rural crossings like the ones in this Circuit, local Police Personnel support the protocols. Although there is an agreement between these entities to share data, we advise Chilean travelers to begin the process in one of the nearest towns; specifically, in Cochrane or Villa O'Higgins. In town, the authorities will review your documents, provide you with a Safe Conduct Certificate and ensure that everything is in order so that you can travel to Argentina. If you are a foreigner to Chile

and Argentina, you'll need your passport and the Immigration Form issued in Chile (if coming from there).

2) Immigration Control seeks to control the entry and exit of people through an immigration form and display of proper identification. For citizens or residents of countries within the MERCOSUR agreement, (Argentina, Brazil, Chile, Colombia, Ecuador, Paraguay, Uruguay, Bolivia and Peru), a National Identity Card or passport can be used. For other countries, visitors must have a passport and comply with visa regulations.

Upon entering Chile one must complete an immigration form, (one form for each person in the group). Keep these papers; you will be required to present them when you leave!

If not traveling in the presence of both parents, children under the age of 18 must present notarized authorization from the parent not traveling with the child. Be

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prepared with at least 4 extra, officially notarized and authorized, copies of this consent, as you will need to leave copies with both the Chilean and Argentinean Immigration Control staff, when you cross the border. In Chile, you'll want to start this process in the Police Offices in Cochrane or Villa O'Higgins, before reaching the crossing. You'll also need to bring a birth certificate certifying the paternity of the child and their national identification, in the proper form.

3) Customs Control monitors goods and vehicles entering and exiting the country. During your crossing, you will be required to declare goods with customs controls, and likely be subject to a review of goods by the Police, Gendarme, and Agricultural Service. Plant and animal products, chemicals, etc, are subject to approval of these Control Services and must comply with the laws and codes of each country. You should use the forms provided during the crossing process to declare personal goods, e.g., I-Phones, notebook computers, cameras, etc, as you leave one country and enter the next. This will help avoid misunderstandings and the possibility of having to pay taxes for these products, by clarifying that they were not purchased during your time abroad. On your return crossing, only declare goods purchased during your travels that are not a part of your original personal baggage. You are allowed to bring in goods purchased during your trip without paying a tax, within the limits established by each country.

To cross a border in a private vehicle, you must:

• Provide the Green Card, (Argentina), or the Certificate of Registration in the National Registry of Motor Vehicles, (Chile), commonly called a Patron, which proves vehicle ownership.

• Provide the Compulsory Insurance Policy covering damages to third parties, with international coverage. You can buy short-term policies of this type, in Coyhaique and Chile Chico, Chile.

• Argentina requires Argentine vehicles to have the automotive alphanumeric number of the chassis engraved on the

glass of the windows of the car.• If you do not own the vehicle, you must

have the authorization of the owner, including rental cars, certified by a notary public.

• Make sure the Rental Car Company has the paperwork for crossing the border complete and in order, before accepting the vehicle.

• Possess and display a valid driver's license.

The Argentina-Chile Agreement regarding the Temporary Admission of Motor Vehicles mandates that drivers complete and submit a Temporary Output and Admission of Vehicles form.

In Chile, to prevent money laundering, persons who leave the country carrying a sum in excess of $10,000 (US), in cash, must declare these actions. Failure to comply with this order could result in a fine of 30% of the undeclared money.

4) Animal and Agricultural Control provides disease prevention and control mechanisms to protect native flora and fauna and prevent the introduction of pests and diseases through the interception of hazardous goods. The protocols include a signed declaration from all adult travelers and a revision of vehicles and baggage,

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overseen by the National Customs Service, Gendarmería or Border Police. To enter Chile, this form is called a Declaration Form for the Agriculture and Livestock Service (SAG) and the National Customs Service. It lists the products that are banned from entering the country.

Some Practical Advice:

• We suggest making a list of all of the items you are carrying in your luggage. This will make your crossing easier.

• Carry local currencies (both Chilean and Argentine pesos). This is necessary

for the payment of any taxes or tolls at the borders.

• Be very clear about the terms of compulsory insurance policies purchased in Chile, particularly in regards to third party liability. Once in Argentina it is not possible to extend or amend coverage.

• If you wish to bring any food into Chile from Argentina, you must declare that you are transporting a plant or animal product. The process is clear. On the form, you can read a list of products that are banned to enter.

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Back roads tour of the Austral Steppe.

This self-guided full day tour travels along country roads through the Patagonian Austral Steppe, providing opportunities to see plenty

of the flora and fauna, and to visit important Tehuelche sites, like the Cerro de los Indios in Hipolito Yrigoyen - Lago Posadas.

Take your time during this great adventure. Enjoy a picnic, a walk on the beach, and a visit to the small town of Lago Posadas, where you can enjoy a great lunch and learn about pre-Columbian history of this zone.

• Activity Type: Back roads tour by 4x4, or bike.

• Sector: Between Paso Roballos, Lago Ghio, Hipolito Yrigoyen (Lago Posadas) and Bajo Caracoles.

• Starting Point: Leaving the Argentine Border Post in Paso Roballos, travel 17.7 Km along Provincial Route 41, until you come to a turn-off to the south (right). This turn off is the starting point for this adventure.

• Ending Point: Crossroads of Provincial Route 39 and National Route 40, at Bajo Caracoles, which begins Section 2A of the Undiscovered Patagonia Circuit.

• Considerations: This circuit travels through gravel back roads which can be in rough shape at times. There are no services, so in the event of a flat tire or

other difficulties, help depends on you and/or the good will of the ranchers who live on the Estancias in the area. Plan on being self-sufficient. The gravel

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roads between Lago Ghio and Lago Posadas are not clearly marked. If you get lost, ask for directions at one of the many Estancias in the area.

• Distance: 175 Km, depending on your choice of routes.

• Duration: Depends on the visitor. Min. 6 hours, Max. 2 or 3 days.

• Seasonality: October – May• Difficulty: This is a great day

driving circuit for 4x4 vehicles. While challenging as a one-day route for cyclists, there are places along the way where you can stop and camp.

The Route: The back roads sector, between Paso Roballos, Lago Ghio, Hipolito Yrigoyen (Lago Posadas), and Bajo Caracoles, offers visitors a great opportunity to explore the Austral Steppe. That said, it’s important to keep in mind that the gravel roads between Lago Ghio and Lago Posadas are not well marked. Follow the directions and when in doubt, stick to the road most-traveled, which will be evident during your adventure.

Leaving the Argentine Border Post in Paso Roballos, travel 17.7 Km along Provincial Route 41, until you come to a turn-off to the south (right). Turn, and follow this road for 1 Km, until you see the buildings of an Estancia and another crossroad. Here, turn right again, (south), and follow the winding country road for 42 Km, when you will reach its crossing with Provincial Route 39 (3 Km from Hipolito Yrigoyen - Lago Posadas). Turn west, (right), on Provincial Route 39. Once you’ve had a break in town, you may decide to keep exploring. There are many Tehuelche rock-painting sites in the area and the lakes are just another 30 Km. When leaving, you can reconnect with the Circuit at the beginning of Section 2A, by following Provincial Route 39 east for

approximately 102 Km, to National Route 40, in Bajo Caracoles.

During the trip, you’ll observe the flora and fauna of the Austral Steppe, amazing rock colors and formations, turquoise lakes, pebbled beaches, and much more. The tiny town of Hipolito Yrigoyen, (Lago Posadas), is full of hidden secrets, including boutique hotels, beautiful camping spots, gourmet Italian food, and GASOLINE! We recommend visiting Restaurant del Posada, for great Italian food, like gnocchi. The owner is an expert guide for the pre-Columbian Tehuelche history that prevails in this zone. His stories, collection of artifacts, and tours are amazing! We also suggest a visit to the Tourism Information Office, which you’ll find a block away, both on the main street in town, Av. San Martin.

Continuing west, past the town, you’ll start seeing the views of the beautiful lake sector, in approximately 34 Km. Watch for signage indicating the short side road leading to the Arco de Piedra, a rock arch in the middle of the lake, formed from crashing waves over thousands of years. Further down the main road, (approximately 10 Km), you’ll arrive at a rocky lake front beach along the natural land bridge that cuts between Posadas and Pueyrredón lakes. The beach offers options for swimming, hiking, or simply basking in the raw beauty of the lakes’ colors.

We suggest incorporating this excursion into your plans after you cross into Argentina, at Paso Roballos. Consider the option of spending the night in Hipolito Yrigoyen, (Lago Posadas), where there are great little hotels and options for dining, refueling, and buying all the supplies you’ll need for the route toward El Chaltén.

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Posadas, pastas, and petroglyphs await in Hipolito Yrigoyen.

Hipolito Yrigoyen, also known as Lago Posadas, is a tiny town in the northwest corner of the province of Santa Cruz, Argentina, just 70 Km from National

Route 40 and Bajo Caracoles. The town is a hidden gem; known only to those who leave the beaten path on the quest for new discoveries.

Like many small towns in Patagonia, the first settlers arrived in the area of Lago Posadas during the early twentieth century, establishing large sheep Estancias. The town of Lago Posadas naturally emerged during the 1920s to support the activities of the Posadas Estancia. Things began with a general store, belonging to rancher, González Pedroso, who later donated one of his bunkhouses, so that the Province of Santa Cruz could open a tiny school. And so things went until 1959, when the town was officially founded, under the name of Hipólito Yrigoyen, (although local folks still call it Lago Posadas).

A strategic position along the border with Chile afforded Lago Posadas its place along the trade route for movement of animals and bales of wool across the pampa to waiting boats on the Atlantic coast, now known as The Wool Route. Lago Posadas, along with other small towns, like Bajo Caracoles and Tres Lagos, became obligatory stopping points for weary travelers, who could spend the night at government supported hotels and restaurants.

While the peak of movement from the Estancias has come and gone, the quiet village of Lago Posadas continues to live in rhythm with the seasons of the Steppe, happy to be isolated from the frenetic pace of large urban centers. As you walk through Hipolito Yrigoyen - Lago Posadas, you will sense the relaxed feel of this slower paced lifestyle, and perhaps, even experience the sensation of being a pioneer. How? Use the inspirations around you and step back a century in your mind. Here, its easy to connect with the ranching heritage.

Actually, the roots of Lago Posadas go much

deeper. Imagine yourself into the mysterious world of the pre-Columbian Tehuelche, whom have left evidence of their ways of life within the hills and caves surrounding the area. Through their artifacts and their art, they reveal clues about their culture and the Steppe ecosystem, providing links to a much earlier period in the history of this sector.

Like most of Argentina, Lago Posadas has Italian influences in their local culture, which are deliciously evidenced in the gastronomy in town. You can find great home-baked Italian-style bread, charcuterie, gnocchi and other home-made pastas, and sauces using fresh vegetables from local greenhouses and gardens. But, you have to know where to look! We suggest starting with the Directory of Services of the Undiscovered Patagonia Circuit.

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Place to Visit & Things to Do:

Posadas and Pueyrredón Lakes: 34 Km west of town, you’ll encounter the peninsula of Lakes Posadas and Pueyrredón (which, on the Chilean side is Lake Cochrane). The first, Posadas Lake, is a beautiful turquoise and the second, Pueyrredón, a deep blue. The land-bridge running between the two lakes provides the unique opportunity to immerse yourself in these intensely contrasting colors.

Monte San Lorenzo: Mt San Lorenzo, with 3,700 m, is the second highest peak in the Southern Patagonian Andes and visible on the horizon as you gaze west toward Chile.

Cerro de los Indios (Mountain of the Indians): Lago Posadas is the home of one of the most important petroglyphic and archaeological sites in the Province; one which many argue is pivotal for the understanding of ancient hunter-gatherer cultures of Patagonia. Its red rock walls rise up just 3 kilometers from the village, changing color with the light of the setting sun. This mountain provided shelter for hunter-gatherer tribes, who left their mark, through petroglyphs, painted more than 3,800 years ago.

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Celebrate Argentina’s National Gnocchi Day.

Partake in this celebration and you’ll understand the Argentine expression: “A full belly means a happy heart”.

Argentine culture has been greatly influenced by Italy, the result of early immigrations to this New World nation, from Sicily, Fruiti and Genoa. Some people even jokingly characterize Argentineans as “Italians who happen to speak Spanish”. You’ll note Italian influences everywhere; politics, religion, education, fashion, language, and definitely, FOOD!

Prepare for a rich selection of gastronomic treats, combining both Spanish and Italian roots with a heavy dose of Argentina’s own local flavors and styles. While an Argentine Asado is not to be missed, you’ll also want to try the pizzas, pastas and Milanesas. (Milanesas are a popular treat consisting of thinly sliced cutlets, dipped in egg and Italian bread crumbs and then sautéed or baked and served as a sandwich or main dish. In Patagonia, you’ll find them in many varieties, including beef, chicken, fish, cheese and even, guanaco!)

One of the most popular Argentine dishes is gnocchi, which is a homemade pasta typically made from potatoes. You’ll encounter plenty of creativity though; gnocchi can also be made from ricotta, spinach, sweet potato, pumpkin, and all kinds of other flavors! Almost every restaurant in Argentina features some form of gnocchi on their menu and you can find pre-prepared versions in most food stores.

Gnocchi are so popular in Argentina, there’s even a monthly holiday dedicated to their enjoyment. On the 29th day of every month National Gnocchi Day is celebrated. (Yep, that’s right, one day a year just wasn’t enough. Argentineans needed eleven days each year dedicated to GNOCCHI!!! Why eleven and not twelve? Think about it.)

In fact, the 29th was strategically selected.

Typically the 29th is the “poorest” day of the month for Argentine households; the last day before payday; which, only comes once a month. Gnocchi, being inexpensive but hearty, was the perfect answer to maintain “bellies full and hearts happy”. There’s more! Traditionally, when eating gnocchi on National Gnocchi Day, one peso is placed underneath the dish as a good luck charm. In return for the luck this gesture brings to the eater, the peso is left for the hostess to pay for the gnocchi ingredients for the following month.

Regardless of your superstitious beliefs or the day of the month, we encourage you to enjoy a delicious plate of gnocchi during your travels. Almost all of the restaurants in Argentina, and most in Chile, serve gnocchi. You can also find freshly prepared gnocchi in many supermarkets along the route! And keep in mind, Gnocchi is easy and fun to make; even in the back country.

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Cooking on the road Argentinean style, “Gnocchi with Salsa Tuco”.

Gnocchi is fun and easy to make, using simple ingredients available in any Patagonian market. With a few simple tricks, you can even prepare

homemade Gnocchi in the back country. Here’s all you’ll need to know for making a batch of homemade Argentine Potato Gnocchi with Tuco Sauce.

Making gnocchi is a fun activity that will result in a delicious meal. In just three simple steps, you can make a yummy plate of Gnocchi with Tuco Sauce during your trip or, to share at a celebration party when you get home.

Step 1: Head into town to purchase ingredients. The ingredients for making Gnocchi are very basic. No matter how small or remote the town, this dish is a great option.

Shopping List: To make a batch of gnocchi that will serve 4 – 6 people, all you’ll need is 3 potatoes, a small bag of flour (½ kilo) and a couple of eggs. For the Tuco sauce, you’ll need a small bottle of olive or vegetable oil, an onion, a red or green pepper (or both), a couple of carrots, a couple of cans of chopped tomatoes, parsley, small packets of laurel leaves and nutmeg and optionally, ½ kilo of stewing beef, (there are also pre-prepared canned

or pouched Tuco sauce options for those in a hurry). While you’re at it, pick up a bottle of wine, some Parmesan cheese and a loaf of fresh baked bread, to make the dinner complete!

Step 2: Prepare the Sauce: Heat 4 T. of olive oil in a sauce pan at medium-low heat. Chop the onion and peppers and sauté for about 5 minutes. Add and brown the meat and stir in the laurel leaves. Grate and add the carrots and stir. Add the tomatoes and season with a pinch of nutmeg. Simmer until the meat is tender (about 2 hours, depending of the kind of meat you are using). Turn off the heat and add chopped parsley to taste.

Step 3: Prepare the Gnocchi: While the sauce is simmering, bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Peel potatoes and add to the pot. Cook until tender but still firm, about 15 minutes. Drain, cool and mash with a fork or potato masher. Combine

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1 cup mashed potato, flour and egg in a large bowl. Knead until the dough forms a ball. Shape small portions of the dough into long "snakes". On a floured surface, cut the snakes into half-inch slices. Bring another large pot of lightly salted water to a boil. Drop in your gnocchi and cook for 3 to 5 minutes or until they rise to the top. Drain and serve, topped with Tuco sauce and grated Parmesan cheese. Buen provecho (Enjoy)!

P.S. Taking Gnocchi into the back country: Gnocchi is the perfect dish for camping as it can be made using only dry ingredients, water, oil, and basic cooking gear. To make gnocchi in the back country for 2-4 persons, use a pre-packaged sauce, (often sold in lightweight plastic pouches), and the following recipe, based on the backpacker staple, and dehydrated instant potato flakes.

Ingredients:

• 1 Cup instant mashed potato flakes• 1 Cup flour• 1 Cup boiling water• Pinch salt• Extra ¼-½ Cup flour for rolling the

dough Preparation: In a bowl, mix the instant potato flakes, salt and about half of the flour. Pour the boiling water into the bowl and mix vigorously. Then, add in the rest of the flour and combine until you’ve formed a sticky dough. Place the dough on a clean floured surface and divide into four pieces. Roll each piece in the remaining flour, making a long snake shape. Cut into gnocchi using a knife and then toss them into a bowl with flour to keep them from sticking together. Add a tablespoon of olive or vegetable oil to a pot of water and bring to a boil on your camp stove. Drop the gnocchi into the boiling water, a few at a time, and stir periodically until most float to the top (3 – 5 minutes). Drain and serve with your sauce and grated Parmesan cheese.

Please remember that campfires are strictly prohibited almost everywhere in Patagonia!

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Stage 1 Service Directory Service directory for Stage 1 Meander within the Patagonia Grasslands.

GENERAL – BANKING SERVICES

1A BancoEstado (Bank)Cochrane, CH, Esmeralda 460.The BancoEstado is the State owned Bank of Chile & offers services primarily for Chilean citizens. This branch office conducts all bank services for its clients & has an ATM which accepts its own bank cards, some international network cards (e.g. Cirrus) & MasterCard (only).


1A CONAF, CochraneCochrane, CH, Río Nef 417, (0672) 522164. www.conaf.cl/conaf/seccion-conaf-aysen.html. CONAF´s office in Cochrane has a coverage area that includes all the Capitan Prat Province, w/emphasis on the Tamango National Reserve. They have information on the Region´s Protected Areas, especially those they manage. They can provide expertise regarding native (& introduced) flora & fauna, including the huemul (hippocamelus bisulcus), which is the prime conservation focus within the Tamango National Reserve, & helpful tips for visitors. Their office is open 10h00 - 18h00, Monday to Saturday.

1A Tourism Information Office, CochraneCochrane, CH, Kiosk in Southeastern corner of the Plaza de Arms. (0672) 522326, [email protected] Tourism Information Office can provide maps, brochures, & information about tourism services & public transportation, including the latest bus schedules & taxi information (Mondays – Saturdays, 09h00-13h00 & 14h00-21h00 January & February).

1B Conservación Patagónica´s Private Nature Reserve, Patagonia ParkCochrane, CH, Administration & Information Center for Conservación Patagónica & Patagonia Park in the Chacabuco Valley, www.conservacionpatagonica.org, [email protected] Explore a Park-in-Progress! Interested in seeing a national park in the making? Eager to explore the rugged landscapes of the Chacabuco Valley? You’re welcome to visit the Patagonia National Park project, but please keep in mind that the park is still several years from completion. Many of the key facilities are not yet open, & they’re still in the trial phase of operating others. Please bear w/them, & treat the park w/respect. The park-in-progress is free & open to the public, but they ask visitors to understand that they are focused on completing the park. Please plan to be as self-sufficient as possible during your visit.

1D Department of Tourism, Hipolito YrigoyenHipolito Yrigoyen - Lago Posadas, AR, Corner of Av. San Martin & Amancay, (02963) 490260, [email protected] Tourist Information Office is helpful, w/a surprising number of pamphlets & brochures.

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Stage 1 Service Directory

GENERAL – SAFETY

1A Police Commissary, CochraneCochrane, CH, Calle Esmeralda Nº 522, on the perimeter of the Plaza of Arms, (0672) 567164 / 133 (emergencies).In addition to normal police functions, this Commissary, as they are referred to in Chile, is authorized to conduct transactions related to the crossing of borders.

1C Border Control Police, Entrada BakerCochrane, CH, Paso Roballos, Entrada Baker Sector, (0672) 567183.This police post coordinates emergency responses for the route through the Chacabuco Valley to Cochrane. You will find the Entrada Baker police post near the Paso Roballos border crossing.

1D Argentine Administrative Offices, Roballos Border Crossing, Hipolito YrigoyenHipolito Yrigoyen - Lago Posadas, AR, San Martin, (02963) 490260, www.gendarmerianacional.gov.ar/pasos/fichroballos.html.The Argentine side of the Roballos Rodolfo border crossing is in the northeast corner of the province of Santa Cruz, Argentina, connecting w/Chile, through Provincial Route 41, which travels to the international boundary. Administrative offices are located in the village of Hipolito Yrigoyen-Lago Posadas, where staff can assist w/questions & special procedures.

1D Police Department, Hipolito YrigoyenHipolito Yrigoyen - Lago Posadas, AR, San Martin, (02963) 490220.Investigation & response management in the case of incidents or accidents, & assistance w/other aspects of travel logistics.

GENERAL – HEALTH

1A Provincial Hospital, CochraneCochrane, CH, Bernardo O’Higgins 755, (0672) 261346 / 261330 / 261337.Equipped w/4 general medics who care for patients from the towns of Caleta Tortel, Villa O’Higgins, Puerto Bertrand, & surrounding areas. Performs minor surgeries & administers antibiotics & medications. 24 hour Emergency care.

1A Rural Health Post, Hipolito YrigoyenHipolito Yrigoyen - Lago Posadas, AR, RP 39, (02963) 490267 / 490216.This Rural Health Post, run by the Provincial Government, provides Basic Medical Services, including general medicine, ambulance services, & preventative health services.


1A Correos de Chile (Post Office)Cochrane, CH, Esmeralda 199, (600) 502020.Local agency w/basic postal services & office hours Monday - Friday, from 09h30 -13h00 & 15h00 - 19h00, & Saturday hours from 09h30 - 13h00.

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1A Buses Acuario 13Cochrane, CH, Río Baker 349, (0672) / (09) 522143 / 98748022.Buses Acuario 13 offers scheduled transportation between Coyhaique & Cochrane w/departures most days. They also provide transfers between Cochrane, Villa O’Higgins & Tortel, 2-3 times a week. Confirm times & make reservations in advance by visiting their office in Coyhaique or Cochrane, in person. In other communities, we suggest you visit the Tourist Information Office, to obtain updated schedules & details on how to make your reservations.

1A Buses Águilas PatagónicasCochrane, CH, Las Golondrinas N° 339, (0672) 522020, www.aguilaspatagonicas.cl, [email protected] Águilas Patagónicas offers scheduled transportation between Coyhaique & Cochrane w/departures on alternate days. They also provide transfers between Cochrane, Villa O’Higgins & Tortel, 2-3 times a week. Confirm schedules & make reservations in advance by visiting their offices, in Coyhaique or Cochrane, in person. In other communities, we suggest you visit the Tourist Information Office, to obtain updated schedules & details on how to make your reservations.

1A Buses Don CarlosCochrane, CH, Arturo Prat N° 335, (0672) 522150. Buses Don Carlos offers scheduled transportation between Coyhaique & Cochrane w/departures on alternate days. Confirm schedules & make reservations in advance by visiting their offices, in Coyhaique or Cochrane, in person. In other communities, we suggest you visit the Tourist Information Office, to obtain updated schedules & details on how to make your reservations.

1A Buses Sao PauloCochrane, CH, Río Baker 349, (0672) / (09) 522143 / 98748022. Buses Sao Paulo offers scheduled transportation between Coyhaique & Cochrane w/departures on alternate days. Confirm schedules & make reservations in advance by visiting their offices, in Coyhaique or Cochrane, in person. In other communities, we suggest you visit the Tourist Information Office, to obtain updated schedules & details on how to make your reservations.

ID Public Transport between Perito Moreno & Hipolito YrigoyenAR, Hipolito Yrigoyen - Lago Posadas, AR, San Martin, (02963) 490260, www.lagoposadas.com. The Development Commission offers public transport between Perito Moreno & Hipolito Yrigoyen, AR, free, Tuesdays during summer. 19 spots available. Contact the Commission to reserve a space.

GETTING AROUND –CHAUFFEURS & TRANSFERS

1A Minibuses AldeaCochrane, CH, Las Golondrinas N° 339, (09) 81801962. Minibuses Aldea offers scheduled transportation between Cochrane y Caleta Tortel w/4 departures each week. Confirm times & make advance reservations, visiting their office in Cochrane or Caleta Tortel, in person.

1A Las Loicas TransporteHipolito Yrigoyen - Lago Posadas, AR, Corner of Las Lengas & Cóndor Andino, (02963) 490272, www.lasloicas.com, [email protected]. Overland tours offered throughout the Santa Cruz Province, including Route 40, Perito Moreno & Los Glaciares National Park. Focus on providing a personalized service, w/small groups of approximately 10 passengers. Accommodations within Inns, Guest houses & Estancias, all of which are very warm & welcoming places, usually maintained by their owners.

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GETTING AROUND - GAS STATIONS & MECHANICS

1A El PatagónCochrane, CH, Tte. Merino, (09) 77627026. Mechanic - Tire patching, welding, lubrication, etc.

1A Marvin ArriagadaCochrane, CH, Av. Bdo. O’Higgins, (09) 92127663. General mechanic, welding.

1A Rolando WellmannCochrane, CH, San Valentín, (0672) 522139 / 522139. General mechanic.

1A Servicentro CochraneCH, Carretera austral km 2, (0672) / (09) 522133 / 81833682, [email protected]. Gas Station w/public bathrooms & a small Tourism Information Kiosk.

1A Servicentro COPECCochrane, CH, A. Prat N º275, (0672) 522190.Gas Station w/diesel, unleaded gas, & motor oil.

ID YPF Gas StationHipolito Yrigoyen - Lago Posadas, AR, Corner of Chacay w/San Martin, (02963) 490267, www.lagoposadas.com. Operated by the Development Commission of Hipolito Yrigoyen, Santa Cruz. If you cannot find a pump operator when you arrive, visit their office in San Martin Ave, to request service.

GETTING AROUND-BICYCLES & OTHER ALTERNATIVES

1A MejorenbiciCochrane, CH, Av. Esmeralda 464, behind Café Tamango, (09) 82094957, www.mejorenbici.cl, [email protected]. Bike rental service, guided bike tours, information for self-guided tours, technical revisions & bike repairs. Fleet includes mountain bikes (aluminum frames, front suspension, 24 speeds, disc brakes), children’s bicycles, accessories for long trips (saddlebags, grills, pumps), racks to carry bikes on vehicles, & baby seats. Leases include bike, helmet, gloves, pump, etc. Support for multi-day bike trips.

WHERE TO SLEEP - TRADITIONAL LODGING

1A Hospedaje CatitaCochrane, CH, Arturo Prat 536, (09) 99312781. Lodging w/breakfast ($8.000) in a comfortable, family atmosphere, run by the owner. Spacious rooms, excellent service & parking.

1A Hospedaje CochraneCochrane, CH, Steffen 451, (0672) / (09) 522377 / 77664752, [email protected] bedrooms, singles, rooms w/2 twins, & matrimonial rooms w/shared bathrooms. $6.000 per person, per night, without breakfast; $8.000 w/breakfast. ½ block from the plaza, family atmosphere, w/parking.

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1A Hospedaje El BomberoCochrane, CH, Doctor Steffen 623, (0672) 522221, [email protected]. Capacity for 20 people within 9 rooms ($7.000 - $15.000) configured in a mixture of doubles, triples & matrimonials, w/shared bathrooms & parking. Laundry service; guests have access to the kitchen.

1A Hospedaje PaolaCochrane, CH, Lago Brown 150, (0672) 522215. This comfortable Hospedaje offers 9 rooms ($9.000/person), including options for singles, doubles & a matrimonial. Service includes breakfast.

1A Hotel Ultimo ParadiseCochrane, CH, Lago Brown 455, (0672) 522361, [email protected] w/native woods, this hotel features 6 comfortable rooms w/private baths, cable TV, & central heating.

1A Hotel WellmanCochrane, CH, Las Golondrinas 565, (0672) 522171, [email protected]. Hotel ($44.000 / $52.000) w/22 rooms on 2 floors, a spacious living room & dining room. Located 1 block from Cochrane’s Plaza, close to hopping district. Breakfast is included in the rate.

1A Latitude 47Cochrane, CH, Lago Brown 564, (09) 88290956, [email protected]. This guest house has several upstairs rooms w/single beds, & a recent addition, w/more spacious options & a separate bathroom, in an adjoining area. Singles & Doubles ($20.000/ $30.000), or per person ($10.000), without a private bathroom.

1A Residencial Cero a CeroCochrane, CH, Lago Brown 464, (0672) 522158, [email protected]. Cero a Cero is a comfortable option w/good beds, plenty of windows, a warm, cozy interior & a mix of room types w/options for a private bathroom. Singles, Doubles ($15.000 / $22.000), or per person, without a private bathroom ($9.000).

1A Residencial El FogónCochrane, CH, San Valentín 650, (09) 76447914 / 82612017. El Fogón offers lodging ($8.000) in their guest house, adjacent to the restaurant. Includes breakfast.

1A Residencial La SureñaCochrane, CH, Teniente Merino 698, (09) 88294171 / 77646689, [email protected]. This hostel offers a pleasant atmosphere w/capacity for 6 persons, divided between 3 doubles & 2 singles ($6.000). They provide breakfast for an extra cost ($1.500).

1A Residencial Lago EsmeraldaCochrane, CH, San Valentín 141, (0672) / (09) 522621 / 97186805, [email protected]. Hostel w/capacity for 10 visitors, divided between 9 rooms ($15.000 single, $30.000 double). Rooms include a mixture of singles, doubles & a matrimonial. They offer breakfast & lunch services in a small restaurant, & cable TV.

1A Residencial HorstmeyerCochrane, CH, Alfredo Stange 9, (0672) 522263, [email protected]. Hostel offering 9 rooms ($12.000), for up to16 guests, divided between singles, doubles & triples, w/a

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shared bathroom. Guests have access to the lounge, TV, hot water & dining area.

1A Residencial RubioCochrane, CH, Teniente Merino 871, (0672) 522173.7 comfortable rooms; 1 single & 6 doubles ($15.000 double occupancy or $ 10.000 per passenger). 4 of the rooms have private bathrooms. Parking is available.

1A Residencial Sur AustralCochrane, CH, Arturo Prat 334, (0672) 522150. The Residencial Sur Austral has 17 rooms ($10.000 - $25.000), configured as singles, doubles & matrimonials, w/options for private & shared bathrooms. They offer cable TV & breakfast, & provide optional lunch service.

IB Patagonia Park The Lodge at Chacabuco ValleyCochrane, CH, Near Visitor Information Center in Valley Chacabuco, http://www.conservacionpatagonica.org, [email protected]. If you seek a regal experience during your time in the circuit, arrange a reservation at this beautiful lodge filled w/hand-crafted woodwork & accents, patterned tiles, an enormous lounge area w/a gigantic fireplace, & walls of windows overlooking green spaces, often visited by fox & other wildlife. There are six guest rooms, mostly doubles, w/some bunk beds for families. The lodge plans to operate using a donations-only payment system; Recommended donation $125.000 /night.

ID Bungalows - La Posada del PosadasHipolito Yrigoyen - Lago Posadas, AR, Av. San Martin, (02963) 490250, www.delposadas.com.ar, [email protected]. La Posada offers 10 new bungalows, which can accommodate a range of group sizes, set within a park like setting, w/an incredible view. Each room is spacious & bright, offering great comfort & warmth. It is an ideal retreat for rest.

ID Hospedaje Los PionerosHipolito Yrigoyen - Lago Posadas, AR, Sector de Lago Pueyrredón, (02963) 490209. Rural Hospedaje offering basic accommodations, hot showers & food services for guests.

ID Hospedaje Tres LagosHipólito Yrigoyen - Lago Posadas, AR, Av. San Martin, (02963) 490233.Basic lodging within a local couple’s home. They offer 2 bedrooms w/queen-size beds & hot showers.

ID Hostería La Posada del PosadasHipolito Yrigoyen - Lago Posadas, AR, Av. San Martin, (02963) 490250, www.delposadas.com.ar, [email protected]. Consists of 5 new hotel rooms (in addition to the 10 bungalows offered), available for those looking for more upscale lodging. The cozy rooms are set within the same building housing the reception area. Each room is spacious & bright, offering great comfort & warmth.

ID Río Tarde Casa PatagónicaHipolito Yrigoyen - Lago Posadas, AR, Calle Las Lengas 450, (02963) 490209, www.riotarde.com.ar, [email protected]. Comfortable rooms in an atmosphere of simple luxury. This boutique hotel offers incredible architecture, great views, healthy food w/local touches, & a wonderful upper floor lounge, where guests can relax & unwind in the peaceful setting.

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WHERE TO SLEEP – CABAÑAS

1A Cabañas BrellenthinCochrane, CH, Las Golondrinas Nº 52, (0672) / (09) 522275 / 91392413, www.turismorutapatagonia.cl, [email protected] complex consists of 3 cabins located on the banks of the Cochrane River, all fully equipped, w/barbecue grills & a Jacuzzi made of cypress wood. Capacity for 4, 5 or 6 people, w/values of $40.000, $50.000, $60.000, respectively.

1A Cabañas Choike HuapiCochrane, CH, Arturo Prat N°100, (09) 98885256 / 91388250, [email protected]. 3 fully equipped, 2 bedroom cabins, w/satellite TV, & wood-stoves in a peaceful setting, close to downtown.

1A Cabañas Don LinoCochrane, CH, Road to Lago Cochrane, Km 3, (0672) / (09) 522438 / 81866323. Cabin located 3 km from Cochrane in a rural environment near Cochrane Lake, equipped for 4 people w/light provided by propane gas, a fishing pier, horseback riding, & preparation of Asados al Palo, on request.

1A Cabañas El BamboCochrane, CH, North Entrance to Cochrane, Lot 23, (09) 91391780 / 91391840. Fully equipped cabañas in a rural setting w/a quincho for Asados & access to the Cochrane River.

1A Cabaña El ÑirrantalCochrane, CH, Bernardo O’Higgins 650, (09) 78782621, [email protected] or [email protected]. Fully equipped cabaña, which sleeps 6, in a relaxing environment, just steps from downtown Cochrane.

1A Cabañas HervilaCochrane, CH, Lot 28, northern entrance to Cochrane, (09) 84041342 / 97872698, [email protected]. 2 fully equipped cabañas, w/kitchens, wood-burning stoves, & baths w/hot water. Each accommodates up to 4 people. Daily Value, $35.000 to $40.000.

1A Cabañas KonaikenCochrane, CH, Carretera Austral, Northern Route, Km. 30. [email protected]. Comfortable cabañas located on the bank of the Baker River, just 6 km south of the town of Puerto Bertrand.

1A Cabaña La SureñaCochrane, CH, Teniente Merino 698, (09) 88294171 / 77646689, [email protected]. Cabaña ($30.000) equipped for 4 people, w/cable TV & indoor parking.

1A Cabañas María InésCochrane, CH, North Entrance to Cochrane, Km 1.5, (09) 76481405, [email protected]. Fully equipped cabañas w/a nice green space area for recreation & a quincho for Asados.

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1A Cabañas Rio CochraneCochrane, CH, Avenida Bernardo O’Higgins, (0672) / (09) 522622 / 94921787 / 96136762. Located just south of Cochrane, this resort has 14 well-appointed cabins w/a total of 54 beds, showers w/hot water, heating, & gas stoves. Each cabaña has capacity for 2 - 6 persons. Rates from $30.000 to $70.000.

1A Cabañas Rio MaitenCochrane, CH, Río Maitén 331, (0672) 522619 / 522264, [email protected]. 4 fully equipped cabañas w/cable TV, heating & private parking. Each cabaña has capacity for 5 people.

1A Cabañas RogeriCochrane, CH, Teniente Merino 385, (0672) 522264, [email protected]. 4 fully equipped cabaña for 3 - 5 people each, located 1 block from the city center, w/values ranging from $30.000 to $50.000.

1A Cabañas Sol y LunaCochrane, CH, Road to RN Tamango, Lot N° 1, (09) 81579602 / 65710763, [email protected]. Nice, new, well equipped, 4 person cabañas ($45.000) w/a sauna & hot tubs.

1A Cabañas PaolaCochrane, CH, Lago Brown 150, (0672) 522215. 3 fully-equipped cabins ($25.000, $30.000, $35.000), for 3, 5 & 6 persons, respectively. Private parking area & fogón for Asados.

1A Cabaña Sur AustralCochrane, CH, Arturo Prat 334, (0672) 522150. Fully equipped cabaña ($45.000) for 6 persons.

ID Cabañas at Estancia Suyai, Sector Pueyrredón LakeHipolito Yrigoyen - Lago Posadas, AR, Southern Sector of the Estancia, close to Lago Pueyrredón, (02963) / (02974) 490242 / 480225, www.suyaipatagonia.com.ar, [email protected] or [email protected]. The Estancia offers lakeside cabañas for 4 to 6 persons each & a restaurant for up to 20 people in the sector located near the Oro River Valley & San Lorenzo Plateau, only 6 Km from the border w/Chile, on a small peninsula of the Pueyrredón Lake. Access via Hipolito Yrigoyen - Lago Posadas.

ID Cabañas El TioHipolito Yrigoyen - Lago Posadas, AR, Pueyrredón Lake Sector, (02963) 490241, www.eltiocamping.com.ar, [email protected]. Cabañas equipped for 6 people on the shores of the Pueyrredón lake, surrounded by nature in this beautiful corner of Patagonia.

WHERE TO SLEEP – CAMPING & SHELTERS

1A Camping CochraneCochrane, CH, Steffen 451, (0672) / (09), 522377 / 77664752, [email protected]. Located half a block from the square, w/an extended patio area, friendly atmosphere, & parking. The camping area has access to bathrooms w/hot showers, grills, & more.

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1A Camping, CONAF Boat Dock AreaCochrane, CH, Tamango National Reserve, Boat Docks Sector, (0672) 522164. Start at the Visitor Reception Office in the Entrance of the Park, where you will need to sign in & pay a minimal entrance fee. Leaving the Office, continue along the road until you see the signs marking the entrance for the trails. Follow the south trail leading to the Cochrane River. It heads down to the river & then turns toward the west, where it merges w/the gravel road coming from Cochrane & leading to CONAF’s boat dock sector. The camping area is equipped w/toilets, tables & a beautiful area for resting & having lunch.

1A Camping El BamboCochrane, CH, North Entrance to Cochrane, Lot 23, (09) 91391780 / 91391840. Camping area w/a quincho for Asados & access to the Cochrane River.

1A Camping HorstmeyerCochrane, CH, Alfredo Stange 9, (0672) 522263, [email protected]. Horstmeyer camping is located in a beautiful natural setting w/access to electricity & water, as well as the services offered by their hostel. Ask for more information about their fishing trips, meals & laundry services.

1A Camping, Las Correntadas Beach AreaCochrane, CH, Tamango National Reserve, Las Correntadas Sector, (0672) 522164. The Correntadas Camping Area is located within the Reserve, along the Cochrane River. It is an excellent place to try your hand at fishing & a beautiful place to relax & enjoy the incredible natural surroundings. You can spend the night here, tent-camping. Hike in required.

1A Camping Rio CochraneCochrane, CH, San Sebastian Farm, Just before the Tamango National Reserve, (09) 84872384 / 98164954. Camping area adjacent to the Tamango National Reserve w/access to the Cochrane River.

IB Camping WestwindsCochrane, CH, Patagonia Park, Near Visitor Information Center in Valley Chacabuco, www.conservacionpatagonica.org, [email protected]. This large, grassy campground is located 4Km from the Administrative Area of Patagonia Park in Valley Chacabuco. The campground has full bathrooms that include hot showers, flushing toilets, & sinks. Eight cook shelters offer visitors a protected space to eat & relax regardless of weather. Numerous private tent sites accommodate up to 60 tents. Sites are first-come, first-served; operated on a pay by donation, basis.

IC Camping at the Casa de Piedra (Stone House) in Valley ChacabucoPatagonia Park, Cochrane, CH, 27 Km from the Administration of Patagonia Park in the Chacabuco Valley, www.conservacionpatagonica.org, [email protected]. At this site, Patagonia Park is developing the St1 House Campground, which is scheduled to open in 2013. For now, temporary facilities are available w/bathrooms housed in a historic st1 outpost left over from the park’s days as a sheep estancia. The area is located near the confluence of the Aviles & Chacabuco Rivers & will serve as the jumping off point for explorations in the Aviles Valley & Jeinimeni mountains. Sites are first-come, first-served; operated on a pay by donation, basis.

ID Camping at Estancia Suyai, Sector Pueyrredón LakeHipolito Yrigoyen - Lago Posadas, AR, Southern Sector of the Estancia, close to Pueyrredón Lake. (02963) / (02974) 490242 / 480225, www.suyaipatagonia.com.ar, [email protected] or [email protected]. The Estancia offers a camping area w/outdoor grills & access to bathroom facilities, & a restaurant for up to 20 people in the sector located near the Oro River Valley & San Lorenzo Plateau, only 6 km from the border w/Chile, on a small peninsula of the Pueyrredón Lake. You can access the estancia

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via Hipolito Yrigoyen - Lago Posadas.

ID Camping at Estancia Suyai, Sector Ghio LakeHipolito Yrigoyen - Lago Posadas, AR, Northern Sector, close to Ghio Lake, (02963) / (02974) 490242 / 480225, www.suyaipatagonia.com.ar, [email protected] or [email protected]. This sector of the Suyai Estancia is near Lake Ghio & has no formal facilities. However, there is a roadside area where you can tent camp in rustic conditions.

ID Camping El TioHipolito Yrigoyen - Lago Posadas, AR, Sector Pueyrredón Lake, (02963) 490241, www.eltiocamping.com.ar, [email protected]. Camping El Tio offers a private camping area w/grills & bathrooms, on the shores of the Pueyrredón Lake, protected from the wind, but surrounded by nature in this beautiful corner of Patagonia!

GASTRONOMY - RESTAURANTS & PUBS

1A Café Nación PatagoniaCochrane, CH, Las Golondrinas 198, (09) 85500713 / 76622891, www.nacionpatagonia.cl, [email protected]. Cafeteria w/a welcoming atmosphere, good espresso & coffee, fresh juices, cakes, pies & other sweets. Café Nación Patagonia offers a variety of handicrafts & a broad knowledge about the history, local culture, & development of the Cochrane sector.

1A Café KonaikenCochrane, CH, Carretera Austral north of town, Km. 300 (Between Puerto Bertrand & Cochrane), [email protected]. Famous for their exquisite jams & kuchen made from fruits of Patagonia, served along w/a good espresso or a glass of fresh juice. We also offer soups & sandwiches.

1A Café TamangoCochrane, CH, Esmeralda 464, (09) 91584521, [email protected]. Modern, open & airy café w/a great atmosphere, outdoor seating area, friendly staff, & tasty menu. Feature innovative twists on regional flavors, including vegetarian options, salads, sandwiches, crepes, quiches, homemade ice cream & baked goods ($4.000+/- 09h00-21h00, Mondays - Saturdays).

1A El Arriero RestaurantCochrane, CH, San Valentín 750, (0672) 522137. Restaurant ($3.500+/-) w/homemade roasts & other dishes, & daily menu specials. Serving breakfast, lunch & dinner, from 08h00 to 11h30.

1A El Fogón RestaurantCochrane, CH, San Valentín 650, (09) 76447914 / 82612016. El Fogón (The Hearth) is Cochrane’s original restaurant, offering a daily menu ($4.500) & a la carte. Specials include red meat, shellfish & fish. It has a full bar. El Fogón is open every day of the week. Hours: 11h00 to 24h00.

1A El Ñirrantal Café & RestaurantCochrane, CH, Bernardo O’Higgins 650, (09) 78782621, [email protected] or [email protected]. Located 1 block from the Plaza de Arms, Cafe Restaurant Ñirrantal is open every day of the week from 10h00 to 23h00. Daily menu & a la carte, w/bar.

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1A Pub & Restaurant El TehuelcheCochrane, CH, Doctor Steffen 5998, (09) 79991025 / 93576426, [email protected]. Pub & restaurant, live music, pleasant atmosphere & great variety of drinks, disco & karaoke.

1A Restaurant Ada, CochraneCH, Teniente Merino 374, (09) 83995889 / 88274613, [email protected]. Great values & delicious lunches & dinners ($4.500+/-), including seafood & beef options, wine, salads & desserts. Attentive service in a clean atmosphere.

1A Restaurant at Patagonia ParkPatagonia Park, Cochrane, CH, Visitor Information Center Area in Chacabuco Valley, http://www.conservacionpatagonica.org, [email protected]. A new restaurant is planned to open in time for the 2012-13 season in Valle Chacabuco, within the private reserve, Patagonia Park. It will be located in the first large st1 building at the entrance of the Park Administration Area & open for lunch, snacks, tea, & dinner. The menu will feature fresh produce grown in greenhouses, on the grounds.

ID Restaurant del PosadaHipolito Yrigoyen - Lago Posadas, AR, Av. San Martin, (02963) 490250, www.delposadas.com.ar, [email protected]. The La Posada Restaurant has a great, lodge-style atmosphere & a complete service including lunch, snacks, dinners, & banquets. They offer a variety of regional specialties, homemade pastas, & local vegetables, grown in their greenhouses.

1D Restaurant at Estancia SuyaiHipolito Yrigoyen - Lago Posadas, AR, Southern Sector of the Estancia, close to Lago Pueyrredón. (02963) 490242, www.suyaipatagonia.com.ar, [email protected] or [email protected]. This sector of the Suyai Estancia is located near the Oro River Valley & San Lorenzo Plateau, only 6 km from the border w/Chile, on a small peninsula of the Pueyrredón Lake. You can access the estancia via Hipolito Yrigoyen - Lago Posadas. The Estancia offers a restaurant - lounge for up to 20 people.

GASTRONOMY – SUPERMARKETS

1A Casa Melero Supermarket & MoreCochrane, CH, Calle Las Golondrinas Nº148, middle of block, western side of Plaza de Arms. In this amazing store, you’ll not only find everything you need to assemble your portable Yerba Mate Kit, you’ll also find a great supermarket, bakery, deli, & 1-stop shop to buy camping gear, canoes, chain saws, chocolate, fine wines, fishing gear, & almost anything else you could ever want or need!

1A ECA (Agricultural Commerce Store)Cochrane, CH, Rio Colonia 85, (0672) 522227. A small supermarket that offers the opportunity to buy basic supplies such as cold cuts, cheese, bread, coffee, tea, mate & a limited variety of vegetables & fruits.

ID La Posada ProvisionsHipolito Yrigoyen - Lago Posadas, AR, Av. San Martin, (02963) 490250, www.delposadas.com.ar, [email protected] quaint grocery store has a surprising number of goodies for the road, including a variety of deli meats & cheeses, fruits & vegetables, breads & crackers. Stock up while you’re in town!

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GASTRONOMY – BAKERIES (PANADERIAS)

1A Lahuen Artisan PanaderíaHipolito Yrigoyen - Lago Posadas, AR, Calle Las Calandrias.The Lahuen Bakery offers an assortment of artisan breads & facturas.

THINGS TO DO – HIKING & MOUNTAIN SPORTS

1A Excursions Rio CochraneCochrane, CH, San Sebastian Farm, Just before the Entrance to the Tamango National Reserve, (09) 84872384 / 98164954. Guided hiking circuit for watching huemules (hippocamelus bisulcus).

1A Regional Guide, Oscar Verdugo CerónCochrane, CH, Luís Báez Nº840, (09) 96724812. Guided hiking excursions, which offer the possibility to observe huemules (hippocamelus bisulcus) within the Tamango National Reserve.

1A MejorenbiciCochrane, CH, Av. Esmeralda 464, behind Café Tamango, (09) 82094957, www.mejorenbici.cl, [email protected]. Cycle/hike multi-activity tour that lasts a full day ($45.000) & visit the Tamango National Reserve. Equipment included in the price.

THINGS TO DO – BOAT EXCURSIONS

1A Escualos Nautical Club (Kayak School)Cochrane, CH, Francisco Bascur 15. For the past 12 years, Cochrane’s Kayaking Club “Escualos” has taught kids between the ages of 4 & 18, to kayak on the emerald waters of Cochrane River & the nearby Baker River. During the summer holidays (January & February), they offer courses for beginners at their base, between 18h00 & 20h00 on Mondays, Wednesdays & Fridays, both for locals & tourists. The Club has the necessary equipment & instructors to teach beginners, & help advanced kayakers to develop new skills.

1A Excursions Rio CochraneCochrane, CH, San Sebastian Farm, Just before the Entrance to the Tamango National Reserve, (09) 84872384 / 98164954. Boating & fishing on Lake Cochrane.

1A Park Guard & GuideCochrane, CH, Boat Docks of the Tamango National Reserve, (0672) 522164. The Park Guards at the Tamango National Reserve also act as tour guides for the boat excursion down the Cochrane River from the Dock of the Tamango National Reserve to the Paleta beach, in Cochrane Lake.

THINGS TO DO – OVERLAND TOURS

ID Las Loicas Excursions & TransporteHipolito Yrigoyen - Lago Posadas, AR, Corner of Las Lengas & Condor Andino, (02963) 490272, www.lasloicas.com, [email protected]. Overland tours throughout the province of Santa Cruz, including Route 40, Perito Moreno & Los Glaciares National Parks, as well as archaeological & traditional Estancia tours. They focus on providing a personalized service w/small groups of approx. 10 passengers. The accommodations are within

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Inns, Guest houses & Estancias, all of which are very warm & welcoming places, usually maintained by their owners.

THINGS TO DO – HISTORY & CULTURE

1A Mini-Museum of CochraneCochrane, CH, San Valentín Nº 555. This local museum is located next to the Cultural Center. The Museum contains 2 permanent exhibits. The first relates to the geomorphology of the area, the natural environment, flora & fauna, resources, economic activities & the evolution of the population. The second focuses on the human history of the area, w/a dual focus on the indigenous history of the Tehuelche, or Aoniken, pre-Columbian hunter-gatherers & the history of modern colonization & the founding of the town.

ID El Tio QuinchoHipolito Yrigoyen - Lago Posadas, AR, Sector Lago Pueyrredón, (02963) 490241, www.eltiocamping.com.ar, [email protected]. El Tio offers a quincho where your group can celebrate during their travels w/the preparation of a traditional Patagonian cultural event, an Asado al Palo. (They´ll do all the work, for an additional cost).

ID La Posada Guided ToursHipolito Yrigoyen - Lago Posadas, AR, Ave. San Martin , (02963) 490250, www.delposadas.com.ar, [email protected] Posada offers guided hikes to nearby archaeological sites, including visits to the Cerro de los Indios, Paso Roballos, Columno & Ghío Lakes, & the Oro River Valley, among others.

ID Las Loicas TransporteHipolito Yrigoyen - Lago Posadas, AR, Corner of Las Lengas & Condor Andino, (02963) 490272, www.lasloicas.com, [email protected]. La Loicas offers small group overland tours w/personalized service, throughout the province, including tours focuses on pre-Columbian Archeology & the traditional Estancias.

THINGS TO DO – FLORA & FAUNA

1A Excursions Rio CochraneCochrane, CH, San Sebastian Farm, Just before the Tamango National Reserve, (09), 84872384 / 98164954. Guided circuit for watching huemules (hippocamelus bisulcus).

1A Regional Guide, Oscar Verdugo CerónCochrane, CH, Luís Báez Nº840, (09) 96724812.Guided hiking excursions, which offer the possibility to observe huemules (hippocamelus bisulcus) within the Tamango National Reserve.

ID Las Loicas Excursions, Hipolito YrigoyenHipolito Yrigoyen - Lago Posadas AR, Corner of Las Lengas & Cóndor Andino, (02963) 490272, www.lasloicas.com, [email protected]. Organize trips & tours according to the characteristics, interests & expectations of each group. Activities include bird watching.

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THINGS TO DO – FISHING

1A Excursions Rio CochraneCochrane, CH, San Sebastian Farm, Just before the Tamango National Reserve, (09), 84872384 / 98164954. Boating & fishing on Cochrane River & Lake.

1A Regional GuideOscar Verdugo Cerón, Cochrane, CH, Luís Báez Nº840, (09) 96724812. Guided fly-fishing within the waters of the Tamango National Reserve.

THINGS TO DO – BIKING

1A MejorenbiciCochrane, CH, Av. Esmeralda 464, behind Café Tamango, (09) 82094957, www.mejorenbici.cl, [email protected] rental service, guided bike tours, information for self-guided tours, technical revisions & bike repairs, in the city of Cochrane & Capitan Prat Province. Their fleet includes mountain bikes (aluminum frames, front suspension, 24 speeds, & disc brakes), children’s bicycles, accessories for long trips (saddlebags, grills, etc), carrying racks for vehicles, & baby seats. Leases include bike, helmet, gloves, pump. There are 3 programs: 1) Bike Rental (1 Hour $3.000, Half Day $10.000, Full day $15.000). 2) Guided Tours (Ranging from a historical or city tour (1½ hours - $10.000) to a full day cycle/hike multi-activity tour ($45.000). 3) Self-Guided Tours: They provide maps w/fun routes detailed so that clients can do their own rides. You can also consult about multi-day bike trips.

ID Las Loicas ExcursionsHipolito Yrigoyen - Lago Posadas, AR, Corner of Las Lengas & Cóndor Andino, (02963) 490272, www.lasloicas.com, [email protected]. Las Loicas organizes trips & tours according to the characteristics, interests & expectations of each group. Activities include mountain biking.

NEW FINDS

Evelyn Pfeiffer

CHAPTER 3

FOLLOW THE SUN THROUGH AUSTRAL STEPPE


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GUIDE TO AN UNDISCOVERED PATAGONIALIST OF ARTICLESCHAPTER 3: STAGE 2 - Follow the Sun through the Austral Steppe.

115 Follow the Sun through Austral Steppe.

122 The roads of Patagonia are much more than JUST an ingredient in the adventure!

125 Discover the earliest human societies in South America.

127 Searching for solitude and pristine wilderness? This detour’s for you.

128 Reach the summit of Cerro Leon in Perito Moreno National Park.

129 Recharge in the heart of the Austral Steppe.

132 Treat yourself to a bit of high cuisine in the middle of the Austral Steppe.

133 Enjoy a Tabla at the Piedra Clavada.

134 Welcome to El Chaltén, the Trekking Capital of Argentina.

137 Craving a yummy breakfast and a great Java fix?

138 Trekking in the northern zone of Los Glaciares National Park.

139 Chorrillo del Salto Waterfall Hike.

140 Hike to Capri Lagoon, Poincenot Camping and the Blanco River.

141 Hike to De los Tres Lagoon (Extension of the Trek to Capri Lagoon).

142 Day Hike to the Piedras Blancas Glacier Overlook.

143 Hike to the Cerro Torre Lagoon and Overlook.

144 Seeking solitude and pure nature? Head to Los Huemules.

145 Explore Viedma Lake & Glacier.

146 Indulge in the Grand Empanada Tour.

148 Prepare your own Empanadas with a Patagonian style.

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CHAPTER 3: Stage 2 - Follow the Sun through the Austral Steppe.

Follow the Sun through Austral Steppe.Overview of Stage 2 of the Undiscovered Patagonia Circuit.

The second Stage of the Undiscovered Patagonia Circuit (603 Km), explores the Austral Steppe of Patagonia, traveling through the Santa

Cruz Province of Argentina, from Bajo Caracoles to El Chaltén.

The second Stage of the Undiscovered Patagonia Circuit is set within the Santa Cruz Province of Argentina, providing travelers with the opportunity to explore the Austral Steppe of Patagonia. This Stage is divided into five Sections which, can be traveled at the pace you desire. This article describes the route and each of the five Sections of this Stage. Due to the differences in terrain and road conditions, you will notice that the Sections of Stage 2 are comprised of many more kilometers.

Until you reach El Chaltén, the terrain of Stage 2 is relatively flat and you will have tailwinds; which, if your are biking, enable you to cover a much greater distance each day. Many riders choose to porter their bikes through some of the Sections of this Stage, preferring to maximize time in the natural settings and towns, over long hours on isolated roads. For motorized vehicles, it is possible to travel through several Sections in a single day, in accordance with your plans and preferences.

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Section 2A: Bajo Caracoles - Crossing RN 40, RP35, RP37, Las Horquetas Sector (101 Km).

Depart Bajo Caracoles with ample gas, food, and water to cover you for the next several hundred kilometers of your trip. We suggest bringing along the supplies you’ll need for picnic stops and your Yerba Mate kit for sharing along the way. You’ll also want plenty of good music and your camera handy; you never know what kind of interesting, quirky, or rare sights you’ll encounter as you travel down National Route 40. Don’t be surprised to see packs of motorcyclists waving flags from far off countries, or giant overland vehicles nomading their ways through the entire South America continent. Whenever the chance presents itself, do some story swapping with these people. Route 40 attracts many adventure travelers from far off lands! On the flip side, despite the described popularity of Route 40, it is also possible to drive all day and

see virtually no people! We look forward to your road stories, either way. You’ll be traveling this Section on pavement; enjoy it while you can! Section 2A ends at the crossroads of Route 40, 35, and 37, which is known as Las Horquetas sector. Here, you’ll need to decide if you would like to make the 94 Km detour (each way) to Perito Moreno National Park. Nestled way off the beaten path, along the border with Chile, this park receives little visitation, leaving its lands in pristine condition. Nevertheless, it is fully staffed and offers a range of camping, trail, and lodging options.

Should you decide not to detour toward the park, other options include camping along the roadside or pushing on to the end of Section 2B, where you will encounter Gobernador Gregores.

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Section 2B: Crossing RN 40, RP35, RP37, Las Horquetas Sector - Gobernador Gregores

(117 Km).

Follow National Route 40 for another 55 Km before detouring onto Provincial Route 25 to finish the 117 Km of this Section at the

Intersection of Provincial Route 25 and Provincial Route 27, in one of the larger towns amongst the Circuit, Gobernador Gregores.

If you look at a map of the Santa Cruz Region, you’ll note that the most direct route for reaching El Chaltén is to continue following Route 40; however, our Circuit takes a longer series of roads. Here’s why: as of July, 2012, there were more than 45 construction and improvement projects running simultaneously in the 5,000+ Km that comprise Route 40. Thankfully, only two of these projects have potential affects for the Undiscovered Patagonia Circuit; one which extends 45 Km, in the sector between Perito Moreno and Bajo Caracoles and the other, for 55 Km, between Las Horquetas and the Access Bridge over Rio Chico. Construction in these two areas involves re-routing of the road, building culverts, adding

and changing signage, etc. It is important to note that a road under construction is less stable, more susceptible to be compromised by severe weather conditions, subject to detours and delays, and less likely to have adequate signage. Driving through these sectors requires special knowledge and skills on the part of the driver.

It is for these reasons that our circuit is routed to avoid these areas of Route 40. We suggest that until these works are completed, you plan your route in accordance with the defined Sections, which detour around the construction area, along Provincial Route 25 to join with Provincial Route 27 and later, National Route 288. The route is longer; but, it provides a better road

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and the opportunity to take a break halfway to enjoy the small city of Gobernador Gregores. If you choose to go directly to El Chaltén via Route 40, be prepared for extreme conditions, floods, loose gravel, and a lack of services and signage, until the road construction is completed.

Section 2B ends in Governor Gregores, the largest city in the Circuit, with 7,000 inhabitants and the opportunity for

rest and recreation amongst charming surroundings. There are opportunities nearby for recreational fishing, sightseeing and excursions in the Steppe. Within the city, there are several small museums and a great park. We suggest taking a break in Gobernador Gregores. Enjoy the local sites, recharge your batteries, and stock up on fresh fruits, veggies, cheeses and cold cuts, to accompany you along the next Sections of the Circuit.

Evelyn Pfeiffer

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Section 2C: Gobernador Gregores - Crossing RP27, RN288 (115 Km).

Section 2C offers plenty of opportunities to spot Darwin’s rhea (pterocnemia pennata), commonly called ñandú. This long legged bird cannot fly, but it can run! It can reach speeds of up to 60 Km/h to keep just out of reach of predators (and cars!). These birds run in packs feeding on seeds, fruits, plants, small insects, and even small pebbles! Section 2C involves long, straightaways with little change in elevation; perfect conditions for the strong Patagonian crosswinds to gain force. Stay alert as you head south. Can you imagine gauchos crossing these very same plains years ago, before roads, with 1,000s of sheep? The Section ends

at the crossing of Provincial Route 27 and National Route 288, where you will find options for roadside camping and a river nearby. Those who decide to end the day here are asked to please respect the area by not making a campfire; use a camp stove instead, and clean up any trash. Bikers, this Section might be the place to invest in a transport service. You can contract a driver in Gobernador Gregores to porter you and your gear, providing the means to continue to Tres Lagos or El Chaltén the same day. Combining multiple Sections in one day is very feasible, if you are traveling in a motorized vehicle.

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Section 2D: Crossing RP27, RN288 - Tres Lagos (148 Km).

During this Section of the Circuit, you will be traveling good quality gravel roads over relatively flat terrain, heading due west. You are likely to see herds of wild horses, guanaco (lama guanicoe) and ñandú (pterocnemia pennata) throughout your travels, as well as the signposts for a number of surviving Estancias. The 148 Km go fast and before long, you’ll arrive in the tiny town of Tres Lagos, which offers a few lodging options,

restaurants, shops and a full-service gas station; your last before El Chaltén. There is a nice municipal camping area in town and the El Condor Estancia, is located nearby, at the crossroads of Routes 40 and 31. Here, you will find hot showers and comfortable beds for a low price. The Estancia also offers meals and horseback rides, providing the opportunity to ride through the beautiful Austral Steppe of Patagonia in gaucho style!

NOTES

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Section 2E: Tres Lagos - El Chaltén (122 Km).

The final Section of Stage 2 involves a beautiful drive or ride, on paved segments of National Route 40. Although bikers will face a headwind, the magnificent sight of Mt.. Fitz Roy, which comes into view after about 60 Km, provides the motivation needed to push on! The shoreline of Lake Viedma will accompany you to the left, for 50 Km of your approach, giving you the time and inspiration to imagine why so many climbers are drawn to this giant, granite spike shooting out of the flat landscape in front of you!

The small town of El Chaltén is your final destination for this Section and Stage 2 of the Circuit. El Chaltén is located inside the Los Glaciares National Park, at the foot of some of the most famous peaks in the world. The Park’s Visitor Center is located a few kilometers outside the entrance to the town. The area surrounding El Chaltén is known as the Hiker’s Capital of Argentina, and has a seemingly endless number of trails.

There is also some interesting history associated with this sector of Patagonia. On a day-off from hiking, we suggest visiting La Quinta Estancia to learn more from Patricia Halvorsen, daughter of Otto Halvorsen and granddaughter of one of the original pioneers in the area, Halvor Halvorsen.

Patricia is a historian, renowned for her knowledge of Argentine Patagonia. An avid story-teller, she loves sharing legends and facts about the area and provides tours of her family’s beautiful Estancia which offers lodging, a restaurant, and lots of activities. The Halvorsen family are the only with pioneer heritage and an uninterrupted residency in the area for the past century.

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The roads of Patagonia are much more than JUST an

ingredient in the adventure!

The Undiscovered Patagonia Circuit takes you along two world famous National Routes which afford access to the amazing natural areas of this part of the world. Upkeep of these engineering wonders, within the climate and nature of Patagonia,

requires constant improvement and maintenance, as you will see for yourself.

In Chile, you will encounter Route 7, known worldwide as the Carretera Austral; in English, the Southern Highway. The road begins in Puerto Montt, in the Region of Los Lagos and ends 1,240 Km further south, in Villa O'Higgins, in the Region of Aysén. Construction began in 1976, under the direction of the military regime. It was one of the most expensive and ambitious projects of the twentieth century for the country. Most of the work took place during the 1980s and 1990s, by a mix of civilians and members of the Chilean Army, connecting Patagonia with the rest of the country via national routes, after a long history of isolation.

In 2007, the Ministry of Public Works announced upgrades of the road, paving 330 Km, north of the Undiscovered Patagonia Circuit, between Chaitén and Coyhaique.

Construction was also completed for the overland route between Hornopirén and Caleta Gonzalo, crossing the Pumalín Park. Yet, the road is not complete; several sections must be traversed by ferry, including the crossing of the Mitchell Fiord, in Stage 4 of the Circuit.

In the future, the entire Carretera will be paved; however, today, much of the route is gravel, especially in the southern sectors, where you will be traveling. The complicated geography and weather make realization of these goals an enormous challenge and contribute to the reality that the Carretera Austral will always be in constant repair. As you travel, be prepared for changing conditions, detours, and waits.

Argentina’s National Route 40, created in 1935, originates in Cabo Virgenes, Santa Cruz, and travels more than 5,000

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Km, before reaching La Quiaca, in the Jujuy Province. The road provides incredible adventure; a few of its features include:

• Climbing from sea level to almost 5,000 meters,

• Crossing 236 bridges while passing 18 major rivers and lakes, including 13 large salt lakes,

• The chance to visit 20 National Parks and Reserves, and

• The crossing of 27 mountain passes! Perhaps the most amazing aspect of National Route 40 is the opportunity to travel in the comfort of your automobile, motorcycle or bicycle, immersed in natural landscapes with no human distractions; many days you may not even come across another vehicle!

Similar to the Carretera Austral in Chile, Route 40 is not yet entirely paved. In fact, Route 40 had very little pavement until it received a boost, in 2004. After receiving recognition as an outstanding national tourism product, funds were allocated to improve the route of the road, its signage, and its conditions. By 2006, 48% of the route was paved; owing in large part to the projects implemented in the Santa Cruz Province. Routing was changed in some sections to focus the course through paved alternate roads that allowed visitors better views of the Andes. Today, the Neuquén and Rio Black Provinces are 100% paved, in contrast to the Salta and Jujuy Provinces, which offer the most "rustic" road conditions. In Santa Cruz, where the Undiscovered Patagonia circuit is concentrated, you'll encounter a mix of road conditions, allowing you to experience a bit of everything!

As of July 2012, there were more than 45 road improvement projects taking place simultaneously along the 5,000+ Km of Route 40. Two of these projects have the potential to effect your travels. The first project is a stretch of 40 Km, between Perito Moreno and Bajo Caracoles, which provides access to the UNESCO World Heritage Site, The Cueva de las Manos (Cave of the Hands). The second stretch runs 55 Km, from the Las Horquetas Sector,

within Section 2A of the Circuit and the bridge over the Chico River. Both projects involve re-routing of the road, installation of new culverts and signage, and the accompanying delays and discomforts that are hard to avoid.

Without a doubt, road work in Patagonia adds additional elements of adventure and risk to your trip. A road under construction is less stable, more susceptible to weather conditions, more apt to take detours or have intermittent closures, has no permanent signage and thus; presents conditions that require special knowledge and skills on the part of the driver.

We recommend that you consider using a professional driver for your trip, who has experience driving within the context and conditions of Patagonia. These professionals are well prepared to face the challenges and problems that often arise. Also, having someone else do the driving allows you to relax, unwind, and immerse yourself in the incredible scenery.

Until the completion of the projects we have mentioned for Route 40 in the Santa Cruz Province, you should plan your route according to the defined Sections, which

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include a detour from the most direct route, along Provincial Routes 25 and 27, and National Route 288. While this option travels more kilometers, it will take you less time; it is much more relaxed with less risk. Moreover, it provides you with the opportunity to visit Governor Gregores, an interesting town with hotels and shops, historical routes, hiking, and a unique local industry; tulip farming! Imagine fields of brightly colored tulips as a colorful surprise, amongst the yellows and golds of the Patagonian Pampa.

If you decide to go directly to El Chaltén on Route 40, be prepared for extreme conditions, flooding, loose debris, lack of services and signage.

Consider these suggestions:

• Check that your vehicle is equipped with the following obligatory equipment: a functional jack, a lug nut wrench or wheel nut wrench, a spare wheel, and a fire extinguisher.

• Plan your travel, considering the distances between places of interest.

• Carry extra food and fuel.• Before leaving, ask about route

problems at local Police Posts. • If you are carrying equipment or gear

outside your vehicle, make sure that is properly covered, tied and secured.

• On gravel roads, do not over-inflate

your tires (25 lbs recommended).• Consider carrying an extra drum of

back-up fuel, in accordance with local laws and regulations.

• Maintain a speed below 80 Km / hour in straightaways and 40 Km / hour in curves, as a general rule.

• Drive defensively and obey road signage, resting every couple of hours, especially in graveled sections of the Circuit.

• If you stop, pull your vehicle off the road in a place where it is visible from both directions and make sure to engage the emergency brake.

• Use a GPS and carry maps.• Pack the kits we describe in the

Self-sufficient Travel article of the Undiscovered Patagonia Circuit.

Evelyn Pfeiffer

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Discover the earliest human societies in South America.

Visit the Tehuelche petroglyphs at the Cueva de las Manos (Cave of the Hands) World Heritage Site, in the Pinturas River Canyon. The site contains an impressive collection of cave art, drawn between 13,000 and 9,500 years ago.

• Activity Type: Guided Tour• Sector: Río Pinturas Canyon• Starting Point: Parking Lot, Pinturas

River Canyon• Ending Point: Parking Lot of

UNESCO Site, Pinturas River Canyon• Considerations: To access the

site, travel northeast (4x4 vehicle suggested), on Provincial Route 37, from Bajo Caracoles, to the parking lot for the Cueva de las Mano Site

• Distance: The Cueva de las Manos site tour involves 1 Km of easy walking.

• Duration: The tour lasts approximately one hour.

• Seasonality: The Site is open year round however, guides work during the tourism season, November - April.

• Difficulty: This tour is apt for all.

The Route: This remarkable Canyon can be accessed from two different locations; Ruta 37 from Bajo Caracoles or on dirt paths from the adjoining Estancia “Cueva de los Manos”. The first option involves traveling northeast (4x4 vehicle suggested), on Provincial Route 37, from Bajo Caracoles, to the parking lot for the Cueva de las Manos (Cave of the Hands), to begin the guided tour. The second option is to travel north on National Route 40 from Bajo Caracoles to the Estancia, Cueva de las Manos, where you can contract a guide to provide a 4x4 tour 18 Km across the Steppe and then hike 2.5 Km through the Canyon to the start of the tour. The guide will meet you at the end to return to the Estancia, where you have the option to incorporate a night’s stay.

The UNESCO description for this World Heritage Site reports:

“The artistic sequence, which includes three main stylistic groups, began as early as the 10th millennium BP [Before Present]. The sequence is a long one: archaeological investigations have shown that the site was last inhabited around AD 700 by the possible ancestors of the first Tehuelche people of Patagonia.

The Cueva is considered by the international scientific community to be one of the most important sites of the earliest hunter-gatherer groups in South America. The paintings on the rock shelters and caves are located in an outstanding landscape, with the river running through a deep canyon. The hunting scenes depict animals and human figures interacting in a dynamic and naturalistic manner. Different hunting strategies are shown, with animals being surrounded, trapped in ambushes, or attacked by hunters using their throwing

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weapons, round stones known as bolas. Some scenes show individual hunters and others groups of ten or more men.

The entrance to the Cueva is screened by a rock wall covered by many hand stencils. Within the rock shelter itself there are five concentrations of rock art, later figures and motifs often superimposed upon those from earlier periods. The paintings were executed with natural mineral pigments - iron oxides (red and purple), kaolin (white), natrojarosite (yellow), manganese oxide (black) - ground and mixed with some form of binder.

Travelers have been visiting the Cueva de los Manos since the mid-19th century and recording their impressions of the paintings. They were first mentioned in the scientific literature during the 20th century, but it was not until the 1960s that they became the subject of serious study.

The work of Carlos J. Gradin and his coworkers established the importance of the Cueva de los Manos as a prehistoric rock-art site of international scientific importance. The favorable conditions (very low humidity, no water infiltration, stable rock strata) at the rock shelter have ensured that the state of conservation of all but the most exposed paintings is excellent.”

(Source: UNESCO/CLT/WHC, www.whc.unesco.org/en/list/936/).

Trace Gale

Patrick McGarry

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Searching for solitude and pristine wilderness? This detour’s for you.

The wilderness of Perito Moreno National Park is one day’s drive from the Las Horquetas Sector at the intersection of Routes 40, 37, and 35.

The detour rewards you with beautiful landscapes, forests, lakes, glaciers and incredible views of Mt.. San Lorenzo. It’s well worth taking!

• Activity Type: Self guided back- road exploration

• Sector: Section 2A ends at the Las Horquetas Sector; the crossroads of Routes 40, 35, and 37. Here, you’ll make the 94 Km detour (each way) to Perito Moreno National Park.

• Starting Point: Las Horquetas• Ending Point: Las Horquetas• Considerations: The Park has an

entrance fee which must be paid in Argentinean pesos.

• Distance: 200 Km, variable.• Duration: 2 days or longer.• Seasonality: October - March• Difficulty: Apt for cyclists and 4x4s.

The Route: Perito Moreno National Park protects more than 115,000 hectares of Patagonian Steppe, sub-Antarctic forest, glacial lakes and rivers, and high Andean plateau. During the 100 Km drive, you’ll be surrounded by desert-like landscapes,

brimming with local fauna and flora, characteristic of the Patagonian Steppe ecosystem. Once in the Park, visit the Information Center to pay your entrance fee and get information on the numerous trails, free camping areas, and archaeological sites. The Estancia La Oriental, located inside the Park, offers additional options for camping with hot showers, a hostel and restaurant. The Estancia caters to groups and has a two-night minimum stay.

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Reach the summit of Cerro Leon in Perito Moreno National Park.

If you´re searching for solitude, wilderness, fauna, and pristine nature, the Cerro Leon trail hike is your answer. This 9.5 Km hike leads to a windy, but generally,

sun-covered summit, yielding views of the surrounding mountains and vividly colored lakes spreading out in an array of yellows, greens, turquoise and blues.

• Activity Type: Hiking• Sector: Perito Moreno National Park• Starting Point: Trail head located in

the El Rincón free Camping Area.• Ending Point: El Rincón Camping• Considerations: The trail is very

well marked. Watch for guanacos (lama guanicoe) running wild on the flats, often right in front of you on the trail. The marked summit has high winds. Wear good hiking shoes that are well broken in, to avoid blisters. Pack more than enough water & snacks.

• Distance: 9½ Km round trip• Duration: ½ day, (3-4 hours),

depending on pace & time at summit.• Seasonality: October - March• Difficulty: Significant portions of the

trail have steep elevation climbs with no switchbacks.

The Route: The Cerro Leon Hike can be accessed approximately 12 Km from the main Visitor Information Center, in the sector known as El Rincón. The hike begins by crossing the field leading to the foot of Cerro Leon. It’s common to pass herds of guanaco (lama guanicoe) so have your cameras ready! Keep a look out for Andean condor (vultur gryphus) as well. You will pass several gathering places on your ascent!

The trail begins a steep climb to the Cerro Leon ridge line. Reaching this ridge line, you’ll head to the right and pass through a brief forested area before leaving the tree line and hiking on the rocky terrain. Here, there are small wooden planks marking the trail. Be prepared for high winds as you approach the summit. Inexperienced hikers are advised to slow down and take care with every step.

The trail is not extremely steep; however, use caution, especially if hiking with children. If the wind puts you outside of your comfort zone, descend. Your judgment is your best guide. A large rock cairn and a sign mark the summit; which is the perfect spot for a rest break. The windy peak provides incredible views, filled with the breathtaking colors of the surrounding lakes and mountains!

After the hike, we suggest spending the night at the El Rincón Free Camping Area, at the foot of Cerro Leon. The site includes a bathroom and stone shelters where you can pitch your tent and get out of the wind. There is a small Museum with information on the history of the area. Be advised that campfires are illegal; cooking is only allowed on camp stoves!

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Recharge in the heart of the Austral Steppe.

Gobernador Gregores is the largest town in the Undiscovered Patagonia Circuit, with 7,000 inhabitants. This charming oasis

provides ample opportunities for great recreational fishing, sightseeing, and excursions in the Austral Steppe of Patagonia.

Gobernador Gregores was originally named Cañadón León (Lion Canyon), a name chosen by residents for the town's proximity to a canyon where many puma lived. By 1958, the town was modernizing and locals were ready for a new name. So, at their request, Gobernador Gregores became the permanent name, in honor of Lieutenant-Commander Juan Manuel Gregores, governor of the Province.

Gobernador Gregores is a great stop along the Undiscovered Patagonia route, providing a charming setting for rest and recreation. The city has supermarkets, restaurants, options for shopping, and a variety of lodging. You can choose between hotels and hostels, Estancia stays, cabañas, and camping areas. In the city, you will encounter important logistical and assistance services, a Tourist Information Center, a great city park, museums, churches, and much more.

In town, we recommend visiting:

The Municipal Park, which offers great places for relaxing, enjoying local life, and catching some sun. There is also a nice Municipal Camping Area.

José Kuney Posne's home, the Herreria and the Old Smithy: In March of 1922, Austrian, José Kuney Posne built the first house in what would later become the town of Gobernador Gregores. It was a wooden structure, covered with the sheet metal re purposed from 20 liter gas cans. This site presents a great example of pioneer ingenuity. You’ll find it at the intersection of the streets, Alberdi and 9 de Julio.

The Old Tractor: At the intersection of Av. San Martin and O'Higgins, rests an old tractor that was imported to Patagonia in 1917. Of British origin, the tractor was used by Thomas Hospitaliche, a pioneer who

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arrived in the area in 1890, to move loaded carts, wool bales and farm equipment.

The Municipal Exposition Center: Rotating shows and displays are offered in this small Museum, located in the House of Culture, between Ruperto Barrenechea and Av. San Martin.

The Provincial Agricultural School Museum is a free Museum, managed by the students of the school. You can enjoy guided tours of their collections of old photos, rural

storytelling, antique collections and a mini botanical garden.

Facón Grande Center of Traditional Dressage: Established in 1996, this center is home to various heritage festivals, folklore events, and dressage competitions each year.

La Noria: This was the first irrigation system used by small farms in the area. It is located on the left bank of the Chico River. In 1992, this system was declared an Historic Landmark.

The Surrounding Area:

Sector Ugly (Fea) Island: Despite its name, this island is lush, green, and fertile, surrounded by the waters of the Chico River, just 1 Km from town. It is the heart of local agriculture. You can visit the farms and purchase fresh foods produced in the zone, including garlic, vegetables, strawberries, cherries, and beautiful tulips, a local specialty. The sheep’s milk cheeses are exquisite!

Tour the Estancias outlying Gobernador Gregores: Between October and March you can visit the various Estancias in the area, which offer a range of fun activities including hiking, horseback riding, and recreational fishing. Sure bets include:

• Explore History: The Granaderos Estancia, founded in 1916, offers a well-researched heritage tour. You can access from Provincial Route 12.

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• World Renowned Bird watching: The Angostura Estancia, located in Santa Cruz's central plateau, in the valley of the Chico River is surrounded by Tulip groves and famous for its bird watching. You’ll find it 55 Km from Gobernador Gregores, on National Route 40.

• Fly-fishing Adventures: Estancia Laguna Verde offers fishermen the chance to experience wild Patagonia at its best. It’s surrounded by beautiful untouched landscapes and unparalleled flora and fauna. Here, you’ll have the opportunity to battle against huge and strong fish during the day and return to the comfort of an exclusive lodge, each evening.

Visit beautiful Lake Cardiel: Located 69 Km from Gobernador Gregores via Route 29, at the junction with Route 40. Turquoise water and great fishing make this a recreational paradise.

Guided Heritage Tour: Rebellious & Tragic Patagonia – Following the Strikers’ Path. This tour visits sites central to the Rural Worker Strike of 1921, which culminated in tragedy. The important events proved pivotal for human rights of Patagonian workers in Argentina. The tour takes you behind the scenes of the tragedy and includes interpretation by local historians. Schedules are coordinated through the Municipal Museum or the Tourist Information Office.

Visit Cerro La Ventana: This 460 m Cerro of volcanic origin, is close to Gobernador Gregores, along Provincial Highway 27. It offers the opportunity for a ½ day of hiking, where you can see native flora and fauna to the Patagonian Steppe. The best views (of course) are from the top of the hill, where you can set your imagination free. Picture what it must have been like, standing in this same spot, in the time of the Tehuelche or of explorers like George Chaworth Musters, who has been deemed the “Marco Polo” of Patagonia.

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Treat yourself to a bit of high cuisine in the middle of the Austral Steppe.

Traveling along the Undiscovered Patagonia Circuit, you’ll find yourself in a part of the world undiscovered by fast-

food chains. Here’s a much better slow-food option!

Here’s the secret for preparing a delicious gourmet snack anytime, anywhere! We promise that your traveling partners will be pleased and amazed when you serve this great snack during your travels in the Undiscovered Patagonia Circuit.

Traveling through Undiscovered Patagonia includes long days on the road. Not too long ago, these days would have been spent on horseback, but your trip is likely to include wheels of some sort. In the days of gauchos and horse travel, meals were packed into saddle bags and eaten under a tree, beside a river, or maybe, at a remote puesto.

Today, simple, on-the-go eating within the natural landscapes of Patagonia is maintained, in the tradition of an Argentine picoteo, or more commonly, the Tabla.

Basically, a Tabla is the Argentine version of a picnic. Throughout the small towns and outposts of Patagonia, you can find small stores that have basic supplies. In Argentina, the concept of basic supplies includes a rich array of fiambres (cold cuts), cheeses, fresh baked breads, crackers, jams, jellies, olives, pickles and some sorts of fresh fruits and vegetables.

Here’s how it works; take a few minutes to stop at small markets you encounter. Relax, enjoy the break and treat the visit as a sort of culinary treasure hunt. Add a few items to your Tabla Supply Cooler as you go. Then, when you’re ready for a great snack, take a break from your travels, open your treasure chest, and whip up an amazing Tabla.

You’ll need a wooden cutting board, a knife, and your creative culinary energy.

In Argentina, the popular form of serving Tablas involves the same round wooden cutting boards used for serving Asado. Incidentally, these make great souvenirs to take home. They come in a variety of sizes and can be found in almost any small town. You can also find great artisan knives in Argentina, ranging from simple sets for eating Asados, to elaborate bone-handled versions, popular with the gauchos.

Once you’ve elaborated your Tabla, the idea is to share with your entire group, enjoying the simple food family-style. Many use the ingredients to make their own sandwiches but, there are no rules! Tablas are a great answer for special preferences within the group; vegetarians and gluten-intolerant travelers can tailor their Tablas to their individual needs. And don’t forget to include a bottle of wine or some artisan beer. Both Chile and Argentina offer some great varietal wines and home-brews, which perfectly complement Tabla-style eating! Sorry drivers, you’d better stick to a warm cup of coffee or yerba mate with your snack.

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Enjoy a Tabla at the Piedra Clavada.

The Piedra Clavada (Hammered Stone) is a great place to take a break and enjoy a picnic with an Argentine Tabla. Here, amidst open skies and

sweeping landscapes, take a few moments to “slow down” and appreciate the cultural and natural heritage of this corner of the Steppe.

La Piedra Clavada Hotel dates back to the 1930s, when the Suarez family, originally from Spain, built the installations from local stone using traditional hammer and chisel techniques that they brought from their homeland. In back of the hotel, you can still see the ruins of their original homestead, built with these same local stones. This rural hotel is typical of those built along The Wool Route. These refuges provided much needed breaks for travelers and important meeting places for the rural inhabitants spread across the Estancias of the Austral Steppe. This hotel reached its heyday in the 1950s and 1960s, when the family added a second installation, doubling the capacity of their offer. In the 1970s, sheep farming declined due to lower wool prices, overgrazing, and resulting desertification of the fields.

Today, as you will surely note, the countryside in this Sector of the Circuit is especially isolated; ironic, considering that road conditions have greatly improved. The combination of being able to travel greater distances in a single day, and limited economic options, makes the future of this piece of Patagonian Heritage uncertain. At the time of this edition, the hotel is in process of restoration and “for sale”.

The Piedra Clavada is the namesake for the Hotel and Farms. It is a large vertical rock that seems to be hammered into the ground, and is an iconic Menhir (or standing stone) of Patagonia. Its discovery dates back to 1786, when Antonio Viedma explored the coast

of Patagonia. He was on a mission for the Viceroy of Spain, with the objective of and establishing new settlements. Viedma set out from San Julián, Argentina, to explore the course of the Santa Cruz River.

In error, he followed the course of another river, which the Tehuelche referred to as the Chalía River. When the explorer reached this sector, he spotted the Stone, recording its discovery in his journals. In this same exploration, he reached the sector which is now El Chaltén and the shores of the lake, which today, bears his name.

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Welcome to El Chaltén, the Trekking Capital of Argentina.

There’s no doubt that the Trekking Capital of Argentina offers incredible nature, but there is much more awaiting visitors. Get ready

to discover historical secrets, gourmet flavors and recipes, options to relax and pamper yourself, and lots of great shopping!

El Chaltén is a small village situated at the foot of impressive Mount Fitz Roy. Located in the northern part of Los Glaciares National Park, the area has been designated the Trekking Capital of Argentina. It is filled to the brim with great hiking trails that attract thousands of visitors every year.

Walk Patagonia, a small company that specializes in trekking inside the Park and the Southern Ice Fields, describes their hometown saying: “El Chaltén is located on the northern shore of Lake Viedma, at the confluence of rivers “De las Vueltas” and “Fitz Roy”, in the northern sector of Glacier National Park. This spot combines the magic of glaciers and hidden lagoons, with rich Estancia history, Lake Viedma, and the magnetic presence of Mount Fitz Roy. The unmistakable, omnipresent silhouette of Fitz Roy is almost always covered by a blanket of clouds. In fact, the indigenous Tehuelche thought these clouds

were smoke, an error that resulted in their naming the mountain, Chaltén, which means "mountain that smokes".

The village is of El Chaltén is located near the shores of Viedma Lake, approximately 220 Km from El Calafate, and has about 400 permanent inhabitants. Each year, during the months of October through March, it becomes the center of activity for thousands of trekkers and climbers from around the world. Due to the popularity of hiking, we suggest making your reservations at least one month in advance for the January - February high season. This is a place in high demand!

El Chaltén was founded October 12, 1985, which makes it the youngest town in Argentina. It was created as a service and support center for National Park visitors. It didn’t take long, before young entrepreneurs began to arrive, with the dreams of living and sharing this incredible natural area.

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Among the many things to do, we recommend:

Hitting some trails. There are 100s, but here’s a few for inspiration:

• Chorrillo del Salto Waterfall Trail• Hike to Capri Laguna, Poincenot

Camping and the Blanco River• Hiking to Laguna de los Tres• Trail to the Piedras Blancas Glacier

Overlook• Hike to the Laguna and Cerro Torre

Overlook• Lago del Diablo Trail Embark on other Adventures. The possibilities are practically endless. A few of our favorites include:

• Viedma Lake and Glacier Multisport Excursion: The Viedma Glacier is the second largest in Patagonia and one of the few with easy access for visitors. Just 15 Km from El Chaltén, this full day excursion offers a boat excursion, hiking, and ice-trekking.

• Visit the La Quinta Estancia, located in the entrance of the city, where you can relax and learn the history of the area with Patricia Halvorsen, granddaughter of one of the original pioneers of the area, Halvor Halvorsen. Patricia is a renowned historian and storyteller who loves sharing legends and stories about the area. She offers an entertaining tour of the Estancia, which is a great option for lodging during your visit. It offers comfortable accommodations, a restaurant, and lots of activities. The Halvorsen family is the only with permanent residence in El Chaltén, since the pioneer era. Their heritage spans over a century in this sector.

• Browse the boutiques and fairs, where you’ll find a wealth of hand crafted souvenirs to remember your trip. From chocolates to technical mountain gear, El Chaltén has it all.

• Splurge on an incredible Gastronomic Experience. There are 30+ restaurants in the village offering a wide range of flavors and styles, most of which

incorporate local elements. • Relax and unwind in one of the

town’s spas, which offer a wide range of services including saunas, massage treatments, manicures, pedicures and facials.

Some Festivals to Keep in Mind:

• Celebration of the Town’s Anniversary: Every October 12, El Chaltén celebrates the town anniversary with dancing in the school gym, barbecues and live music.

• The National Trekking Festival takes place each year during the last week of February. Popular with rock climbing and bouldering enthusiasts, this festival combines climbing competitions with traditional cultural events; even woodcutting. The festival also includes running and mountain-bike races.

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Craving a yummy breakfast and a great Java fix?

Stop by any bakery or bread shop (panaderia) to purchase a dozen or two assorted facturas. These small pastries and croissants

(medialunas) are incredibly popular in Argentina. The perfect complement to a rich cup of fresh-ground espresso or coffee!

Look no further, we have your answer! Facturas come in an endless variety of sizes and flavors, ranging from super sweet to savory. Why not surprise your group, with a morning version of Tablas, by arranging a delicious array of treats for all to share.

Some of the favorites include:

• Medialunas, (think croissant), the most common factura, shaped like a half-moon. There are two basic types, the “medialuna de manteca”, made with rich buttery dough and the savory “medialuna de grasa”, made with animal fat. You can also find both savory and sweet versions of medialunas filled with a variety of delicious fillings.

• Facturas con Membrillo are usually

oblong shaped or formed in a twist, with a garnish of membrillo or other fruit jams. Sometimes these also have a dab of pastry cream.

• Palmeritas are a large, flat, circular, crusty piece of pastry coated in sugar.

• Scones are small buns, sometimes filled with colorful dried fruit.

• Churros are deep fried and cylindrical in shape. Some are coated in chocolate and some filled with dulce de leche.

In El Chaltén, you will find endless variety of Facturas! Explore to your belly’s content in the cafés, bread shops (Panaderias), bakeries, and supermarkets in town.

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Trekking in the northern zone of Los Glaciares National Park.

Put Los Glaciares National Park at the top of your Bucket List and start making plans! Awarded UNESCO’s World Heritage Site designation in

1981, this Park is home to incredible peaks like Fitz Roy and Torres, enormous glaciers, and the aquamarine waters of Viedma Lake.

Los Glaciares (The Glaciers) National Park was created in 1937 and awarded UNESCO’s “World Heritage Site” designation in 1981. This incredible Park is home to the Perito Moreno Glacier, the Upsala Glacier, Roca, Lake, Mount Fitz Roy, the Viedma Glacier, Laguna/Lago del Desierto, the community of El Chaltén, and much more.

The Park is named for the Southern Patagonia Ice Fields which are the largest outside of Antarctica and Greenland. The fields feed 47 large glaciers; of which 13 flow toward the Atlantic Ocean and Argentina, and the rest, 34, toward Chile. The Park is divided in two main sectors, each associated with one of two lakes. The northern zone of the Park consists of Viedma Lake and Glacier, a few smaller glaciers and a

number of important peaks, such as Mount Fitz Roy and Cerro Torre, which are world renowned sites for climbers and hikers. Comprehensive information, including trail conditions, fishing and mountaineering permits, camping area availability, etc, are available at the Park’s Visitor Information Center in the sector of Viedma Lake, just outside the entrance to El Chaltén.

The trekking season extends from October through April, depending on weather and snow cover. Even in the peak periods, you are likely to encounter snow in higher altitudes; we recommend checking on trail conditions with the rangers before starting each hike.

El Chaltén is home to a large number of professional guides; experts in the terrain of the northern end of Los Glaciares National Park. Experiencing the Park with one of these guides is a great option. They are trained in first aid and mountain safety and can share insights about the terrain and natural history of the Park that will enhance your experience. Look for guides who are certified by the Argentine Association of Mountain Guides (AAGM). Check our Service Directory or the Tourism Information Office in El Chaltén for details.

Evelyn Pfeiffer

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Chorrillo del Salto Waterfall Hike.

This is a great short hike, (11 Km ), when first arriving to El Chaltén, that will help you warm up for longer treks in days to come. Just

outside of town, the hike takes no more than 2 hours.

• Activity Type: Hiking• Sector: El Chaltén• Starting Point: Northern end of

Av. San Martin• Ending Point: Northern end of Av.

San Martin• Considerations: The trails in El

Chaltén are all very well marked and only for hiking. If you passion is mountain biking, there are separate options just for you, nearby this trail. Check for details in town.

• Distance: 11 Km• Duration: 2 hours.• Seasonality: October – April• Difficulty: Easy. Great for everyone. The Route: Like many hikes in El Chaltén, you can walk right from your cabaña or hotel to the trail head. Head to the top of the main street, Av. San Martin. Turn right onto the road to Laguna/Lago (Lagoon/Lake) del Desierto. You’ll walk 5 Km on this

winding gravel road to reach the trail head. Around the 5 Km mark, you will find a small clearing and a sign marking the Chorrillo del Salto trail. The trail passes through native lenga, (nothofagus pumilio), and ñire, (nothofagus antarcticus), forests, and is well formed from years of hiking. The trail leads uphill alongside the Chorrillos del Salto River (gain of 10 m). It then flattens out for a brief walk, leading you to the Chorrillo de Salto waterfall. The trail is marked with indicators on the trees alongside, and with rock cairns (small piles of rocks) with arrow indicators. This hike is an out and back, returning along the same trail. Depending on time spent at the waterfall, the total hike will take about 2 hours.

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Hike to Capri Lagoon, Poincenot Camping and the Blanco River.

If you are hoping to get up close to the famed peaks of Mt.. Fitz Roy, we suggest this 6-8 hour, 20 Km hike. You can break the hike into two segments,

camping at the Capri Lagoon or Poincenot Campgrounds, along the trail (free).

• Activity Type: Hiking• Sector: El Chaltén• Starting Point: Northern end of El

Chaltén, Av. San Martin• Ending Point: Northern end of El

Chaltén, Av. San Martin• Considerations: Although listed as

easy, many hikers are tired by the end of a day in the sun, on this hike. We recommend that families with small children turn-around at Capri Lake. Remember that this camping is on a first-come, first-served basis and tends to fill up quickly, especially during peak months.

• Distance: 20 Km, out and back.• Duration: 6-8 hours.• Seasonality: October – April• Difficulty: A long day for families;

but, suitable for all.

The Route: Head north 1 Km toward Laguna/Lago del Desierto and the Los Glaciares National Park sign marking the trail head. The trail begins with a fairly steep ascent, climbing for roughly 20 minutes, before rewarding you with an overlook of the De Las Vueltas River.

From here, the trail climbs along the foot of Mount Rosado. You’ll cross a few open areas before arriving at a small lagoon which provides prime photography opportunities, with Mt.. Fitz Roy in the background. 200 meters after the lagoon, hikers will find a rock out-cropping that provides another fantastic overlook of Fitz Roy, Saint-Exupery, Poincenot, Mermoz, and Guillaument.

This overlook is a turnaround spot for hikers seeking a shorter day; only a 1½ hour hike from El Chaltén. Continuing another 20 minutes through rolling hills, hikers will turn left at the signs indicating the Capri Lagoon Camping Area. Here, you will have great views of the massif and the first of two options for camping.

The final section follows the banks of the Chorrillo del Salto River for a while, before crossing. On the other side, you will soon encounter a second campground called the Poincenot Campground. Afterwards the trail steeply climbs on its way to the swift moving, Blanco River. The wooden footbridge crossing this river leads to a climber-only campground which provides another great vista and optional turn-around point, if you plan to complete this hike in one day.

Check out the option to extend this hike, described in the article about hiking to De los Tres Lagoon.

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Hike to De los Tres Lagoon (Extension of the Trek to Capri Lagoon, Poincenot

Camping and the Blanco River).

After reaching the climber only campsite at the Blanco River, we highly suggest pushing on to the De los Tres Lagoon, an area which provides

some of the most spectacular views around, on clear days.

• Activity Type: Hiking• Sector: El Chaltén• Starting Point: Climber only

campsite at the Blanco River• Ending Point: Climber only

campsite at Blanco River• Considerations: This route is an

extension of the hike to Capri Lagoon, Poincenot Campgrounds, and the Blanco River.

• Distance: 5 Km (out and back)• Duration: 2 hours.• Seasonality: November – March• Difficulty: Challenging; not

recommended for small children.

The Route: This extension of the hike to Capri Lagoon, Poincenot Camping, and the Blanco River, is especially recommended on clear days when the spectacular views at the top make the extra climbing truly worthwhile. Starting from the climber only campsite at the Blanco River, begin hiking uphill for approximately 2½ Km, until reaching the old frontal moraine of the De los Tres Glacier. Here you’ll encounter a panoramic view of the De los Tres Lagoon. Continue down to the natural drainage point of the De los Tres Glacier, where you will reach your true reward. On this terrace, above the Sucia Lagoon you’ll find views of the glacier spilling down and the Poincenot and Saint-Exupery Needles. This extension hike will take roughly 2 extra hours, so, if you are planning on doing the entire distance from El Chaltén in one day, plan on leaving early, and allow plenty of time.

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Day Hike to the Piedras Blancas Glacier Overlook.

Day hike, with various route options, leading to an overlook for the Piedras Blancas Glacier, one of the lowest hanging glaciers in the zone of Mount Fitz Roy.

• Activity Type: Hiking• Sector: El Chaltén• Starting Point: 15 Km from El

Chaltén along Provincial Route 23, at the bridge over the Blanco River. Alternate route leaves from north end of El Chaltén, Av. San Martin.

• Ending Point: Bridge over the Blanco River or north end of El Chaltén, Av. San Martin.

• Considerations: There are several routes possible for this hike. Read the descriptions below and obtain a map of the zone from the Park Visitor Information Center.

• Distance: 12 Km, out and back, to reach the overlook from the most direct route. 16 Km, out and back, if you continue to the Camping Area or access via the alternative route.

• Duration: 3 - 6 hours.• Seasonality: October – April• Difficulty: Apt for all.

The Route: From the bridge over the Blanco River along Provincial Route 23, take the trail that goes alongside the river. After approximately two hours, you will reach an overlook with a westerly view of the Piedras Blancas Glacier. You cannot cross the river here. Continue to the Poincenot Camp and from there; head back to El Chaltén or camp overnight.

Another alternative is to take the trail from El Chaltén to the De los Tres Lagoon and cross the footbridge over the Blanco River. After crossing the footbridge, at the mountaineering camp, detour right, heading down river. Continue on this path to the Piedras Blancas Stream, descending west, a little less than an hour's walk from Camp Poincenot. Turn 90° west, in front of the glacier, on the trail that traces the right bank of the stream. Cross, just before the river’s start. Once on the other side of the river, follow it down, almost to the lake, where you will have an excellent view of the northeast face of Fitz Roy and its glacier.

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Hike to the Cerro Torre Lagoon and Overlook.

This day hike offers spectacular views of Cerro Torre, one of the most acclaimed mountaineering mountains in the world. The 18½

Km trek will take 4 - 5 hours, leading you through dense Patagonian forests to the glacial moraine of the Cerro Torre Lagoon.

• Activity Type: Hiking• Sector: El Chaltén• Starting Point: Corner of Av. San

Martin and Ricardo Arbilla• Ending Point: Corner of Av. San

Martin and Ricardo Arbilla• Considerations: During sunny,

hot summer days, we suggest getting an early start to avoid the heat. Carry a backpack with enough water for the day and clothing for weather changes.

• Distance: 18 Km• Duration: 3-4 hours.• Seasonality: October – March• Difficulty: Challenging with steep

climbs and slippery moraine. The Route: Turning onto Ricardo Arbilla from San Martin, there are several dirt paths that lead uphill to the trail head. Once on the trail, you will wind slowly uphill for the first few kilometers, with great views of town. The trail continues alongside the Fitz Roy River as it winds along the mountainside.

You’ll climb over rolling hills leading to a long, final climb that rewards with the first of many overlooks of Cerro Torre. This is a good stopping point for families hiking with children.

Continuing, the trail descends to cross a flat leading up to the glacial moraine. Here, the trail changes to rock. The hiking becomes difficult as you traverse the large, tilled rocks, caused during the formation of the Torre Lagoon, but the short challenge ends with a remarkable view. Here, break, for lunch and the opportunity to soak in Cerro Torre and the lagoon. The glaciers themselves can only be reached with a professional guide, as access requires crossing the river using a harness system. There are several mountaineering schools and outfitters that provide ice climbing, trekking, and glacial walks located in the town of El Chaltén. Most of these operators also offer guided hikes to the overlook; a great way to learn more about natural history of the area.

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Seeking solitude and pure nature? Head to Los Huemules.

A short drive north to the Estancia Los Huemules Nature Reserve will put you in the middle of great trails, incredibly varied landscapes and lots of opportunities for solitude as you hike. Try this wonderful day hike to Lago de Diablo (Devil’s Lake).

• Activity Type: Hiking• Sector: Estancia Los Huemules

Private Reserve, 20 Km north out of Chaltén

• Starting Point: Estancia Los Huemules Private Reserve

• Ending Point: Estancia Los Huemules Private Reserve

• Considerations: There is a small entrance fee and you will need to hire a transport service to reach the Estancia Los Huemules Private Reserve.

• Distance: 12 Km, out & back• Duration: 3 - 5 hours• Seasonality: October – April• Difficulty: Great for everyone. The Route: Seeking a little solitude? Estancia Los Huemules Private Reserve is the perfect refuge. Hire a transfer service in to drop you at Los Huemules, where you can access 25 Km of trails and a variety of landscapes and challenges. This trail leads towards Del Las Vueltas River. Once at the River, the trail turns northwest climbing alongside the River for 6 Km to the rocky moraine of Del Diablo Lake. The trail is very well-marked, allowing you to focus on the rich flora of this area.

We suggest spending the full day trekking in Los Huemules. Pack a lunch for an unforgettable picnic on the lake shore and extra clothing in case you choose to join the brave souls who dare to enter the frigid glacial waters!

Evelyn Pfeiffer

Magellanic or black woodpecker (campephilus magellanicus), Evelyn Pfeiffer

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Explore Viedma Lake & Glacier.

“Perhaps the best way to experience and learn about a glacier is walking through it. What you have seen from a distance, suddenly becomes ‘up

close and personal’, when you are walking within the giant ice-filled terrain, enjoying its array of hues, transparent clear tones, whites and blues.”

(Modified text of Evelyn Pfeiffer, Travel Writer and Photographer, www.evelynpfeiffer.com)

• Activity Type: Multisport Excursion• Sector: Viedma Lake, El Chaltén• Starting Point: El Chaltén • Ending Point: El Chaltén • Considerations: Check the Service

Directory for tour operator details.• Distance: 60 Km• Duration: 8 hours.• Seasonality: October to March• Difficulty: The boat trip and hike

to the overlook are suitable for all; the glacier hike only for adults with the proper level of physical fitness.

The Excursion: If you are seeking a full-on experience with the natural environment of the area, we recommend this day-long excursion which includes boating, trekking, and glacial hiking at Viedma Lake and Glacier. There are numerous tour operators who offer full day trips to the Glacier, which normally include transfers to and from El Chaltén, the boat ride to the Glacier, and equipment for the guided glacial trek.

The day typically begins around 08h30, with a short 15 Km drive from El Chaltén to Bahia Túnel on the northern shore of Lago Viedma. Here, you’ll board the Fonrouge, a boat with capacity for up to 60 persons, for a 09h00 departure. The boat excursion lasts two hours, sailing from Bahia Tunel to the southern end of the lake, where a multitude of icebergs gather in the waters surrounding the rocky shore.

You’ll have the opportunity to disembark and hike a short distance to an overlook where you can take in the grand expanse of the Viedma Glacier, against the backdrop of Cerro Huemul’s peaks (2,677 m). Viedma is the second largest of the Southern Ice

Field’s 48 outlet glaciers (978 Km²) and one of the few with easy access. Adventurers can join bilingual guides, who will provide crampons and other ice-hiking gear before heading onto the glacier. The trek typically takes 2 to 2½ hours, before concluding at the rock cropping where you will re board the boat for the return trip.

Some practical advice: Dress for warmth with multiple layers of clothing. It is easier to peel off layers than to attempt to compensate for too little clothing. Prepare with layers for all weather conditions; in Patagonia it is common to experience many forms of weather in the same day!


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Indulge in the Grand Empanada Tour.

Are you one of the many people who learn about local culture using your taste buds? If so, give this gastronomic experience a try. It’s a fun and delicious way

to try out traditions and tastes of Patagonia after a great day on the trails.

• Activity Type: Self-guided tour through El Chaltén on a quest to encounter the best empanadas!

• Sector: El Chaltén• Starting Point: Northern end of

Av. San Martin• Ending Point: El Chaltén Welcome

Sign on Av. San Martin• Considerations: Bring an appetite

and don’t forget your camera!

• Distance: Up to you…• Duration: Again, up to you…• Seasonality: Year Round.• Difficulty: Perfect for everyone.

The Tour: Revealing the secrets of an Undiscovered Patagonia includes trying our typical dishes. Empanadas are a mainstay in Patagonia; our version of fast food. Baked or fried, they are the perfect self-contained snack; great to purchase or prepare ahead and gobble up during a break from work in the fields, or in your case, at a picnic spot alongside one of our many trails.

Almost all cultures have some version of empanadas; which, in their essence, are hand-held bread pies stuffed with an infinite variety of fillings. In actuality, this precursor to Kellogg’s “pop-tart” dates back to ancient times. Examples from other parts of the world include Italian calzones, Polish-Russian pierogis, English turnovers, Cornish pasties, Middle-Eastern/Indian sanbusaq, aka, samosa, Italian-American strombolis,

Louisiana Natchitoches, (deep south U.S.A.), and countless variations of Tamales tracing back to the Indigenous cultures of the Americas. Our own Patagonian empanadas are believed to have originated in Spain, probably migrating to South America with the first European settlers.

The name derives from the Spanish word, emanar, which means, to coat with bread. The traditional Patagonian fillings include: 1) traditional beef filling, containing ground beef, onions, raisins, hard-boiled eggs, cumin, and a little aji sauce; 2) ham and cheese, or more frequently, simply good old gooey

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cheese, and 3) a sweet version containing spiced apples and raisins.

These days our empanadas are filled with all sorts of flavors, influenced by trends coming from all around the world. Hot spots in El Chaltén serve both the basics and new fusion versions of empanadas. They’re great as part of a tapas-style meal, a snack, or an appetizer, almost always accompanied by dipping sauces and your choice of a tasty, cold beverage.

We suggest a Grand Tour de Empanadas, in which you visit the restaurants and pubs of town in search of your favorite versions! Your route might begin at the northern end of town and proceed south, stopping to sample at each of the many restaurants with empanadas on their menu. Of course, detours and side routes are permitted; basically, the final route is up to you and your stomach! After you’ve had your fill, wrap up your tour at the southernmost part of town with a classic photo stop at the El Chaltén Welcome Sign!

Though we doubt you need it, here’s a tip; although it is fun touring alone, the tour is best enjoyed with friends who will join in on an endless variety of possible side games.

Need ideas to get you started? Okay, who can eat the most? Grand Tour of Empanada fun, captured on video for sharing on You Tube? Three-legged races between stops? You get the idea; so we’ll wish you, Buen provecho. Go out there and find those empanadas! P.S. Here’s a space for your first Trip Advisor Review notes.

NOTES

Patrick McGarry

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Prepare your own Empanadas with a Patagonian style.

Introducing the Trekking Capital of Argentina’s newest trail! You’ll find the trail head for this adventure at the closest market in town. From there, follow

this path through the creation of a batch of Patagonian empanadas!

Empanadas are fun and easy to make. You can even prepare a simple version while camping or backpacking. Here’s all you’ll need to know, in five easy steps.

Step 1: Wander into town to purchase ingredients. Information on local supermarkets is included in the Service Directory.

Shopping List: To make a batch of empanadas (15 medium sized, or 25 small), your shopping list for the crust will include a small bag (1 Kilo) of flour, a small packet or shaker of salt, 500 cc of Butter, and 1 egg.

You’ll also need to purchase the ingredients for the filling you wish to use. Here’s the list for each of the three basic Patagonian versions:

Version 1 - Traditional Beef Filling (Pino): ½ kilo lean ground beef, 2 onions, a small bottle of vegetable oil, a small packet or box of Pimenton Rojo (Sweet paprika), 1 small bottle of Aji or hot sauce, (put a touch in

the filling and reserve the rest for dipping), a small packet of ground Cumin, a small bottle of White Vinegar, a small packet of raisins, a small pouch of Black or Kalamata Olives, and 3 eggs.

Version 2 - Ham and Cheese or Cheese Only Filling: ½ kilo of a semi-hard cheese (Gouda, Chancho, etc), and optionally, 1 or 2 pre-packaged packets of sliced ham.

Version 3 - Sweet Cinnamon Apple Filling: Leftover butter from the 500 cc you’ll use for the crust, 4-5 firm, green apples, e.g., Granny Smith, a small bag of white sugar, a packet of cinnamon, a small bag of brown sugar (if you can’t find this, don’t worry; you can use a bit more white sugar), a small box of corn starch, some of the salt you’ve already purchased for the crust, 1 small jar of dulce de leche (optional), and 1 egg.

Step 2: Prepare the Crust: Mix 3 cups flour and ¼ teaspoon salt thoroughly and then add 1 egg, ¾ cup of cold butter,

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cut into small pieces, and 4 - 5 Tablespoons of water. Mix until a clumpy dough forms. Knead the dough well, (5 – 8 minutes), on a floured surface. Once kneaded, form a ball and chill in the refrigerator for about 30 minutes.

Step 3: Prepare the Filling:

Version 1 - Traditional Beef Filling (Pino): Sauté 2 chopped onions in ½ cup of vegetable oil, until they are transparent. Add ½ kilo lean ground beef, 2 teaspoons Pimenton Rojo (Sweet paprika), 1 teaspoon Aji or hot sauce, 1 teaspoon ground cumin, and 1 Tablespoon of White Vinegar. Cook for approximately 20 minutes until the beef is browned and the flavors have had time to blend together. Salt to taste. Remove from heat and allow to cool. (Patagonians swear that you should make this filling, called pino, at least one day in advance, and store it in the refrigerator to allow the flavors to properly blend). Soak the raisins in a bowl of water, allowing them to plump. Remove the pits from the olives and reserve in a small bowl. Hard-boil the eggs; then peel and chop and reserve in a small bowl.

Version 2 - Ham and Cheese or Cheese Only Filling: Cube cheese in squares of approximately 1½ – 2 oz each. If you are using ham, chop and reserve in a small bowl.

Version 3 - Sweet Cinnamon Apple Filling: Peel and core the apples, then cut them into small cubes. Add to a saucepan with 2 tablespoons butter, ½ cup white sugar and ¼ cup brown sugar (or ¾ cup white sugar), a pinch of salt, and 1 – 2 teaspoons of cinnamon. Cook apples over medium heat, until they are just tender. In a small bowl, mix a tablespoon or two of water into 2 tablespoons of corn starch until smooth. Add cornstarch mixture to the apples and cook, stirring, until mixture starts to thicken. Remove the apples from the heat and if desired, stir in 3 tablespoons of dulce de leche. Chill apple mixture for at least an hour, stirring occasionally.

Step 4: Assemble the Empanadas: Roll out the dough into a thin sheet, about 2 mm in thickness, and cut out round disc

shapes (You can use a small bread plate as a pattern and cut around the outer rim). Wet the edge of a dough circle slightly, all around the perimeter.

Version 1 - Traditional Beef Filling (Pino): Place one scant tablespoon of filling, 2 olives, 3-4 raisins, and 1/2 teaspoon of chopped hard-boiled eggs in the middle of the dough.

Version 2 - Ham and Cheese or Cheese Only Filling: Place one cube of cheese and ½ teaspoon of chopped ham (optional) in the middle of the dough.

Version 3 - Sweet Cinnamon Apple Filling: Place one scant tablespoon of filling in the middle of the dough.

Fold the circle in half, enclosing the filling, and pinch the edges together firmly to seal, flattening and extending them slightly as you pinch them. Fold and crimp the flattened edge over itself decoratively. Repeat with remaining empanadas.

Step 5: Cook the Empanadas: For any of the three versions, there are two options for cooking. First, you can bake your empanadas on a baking sheet in a preheated 180˚C oven, for 20-30 minutes until browned. If you choose to bake, use a fork to poke a few holes in the tops for steam to escape and brush with whipped egg yolk before baking. Special note: Fruit empanadas are famous for leaking in the oven. It helps to chill the formed empanadas overnight before baking. The second option is to deep-fry your empanadas in hot vegetable oil for 5 – 7 minutes, until golden brown. Allow to cool a bit before eating!

P.S. Preparing empanadas in the back-country: Empanadas can be prepared and eaten almost anywhere. For use in the back-country, we suggest that you prepared the version which is deep fried. You can prepare these using portable back-country stoves; however, please take care with the use of hot oil! Alternatively, pack in your empanadas, already prepared.

Buen provecho!

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Stage 2 Service DirectoryService Directory for Stage 2

Follow the Sun through the Austral Steppe.


2A ATM, Banco de Santa Cruz (Bank)Perito Moreno, AR, Corner of San Martín & Rivadavia. Banco de Santa Cruz w/ATM (Red Link) & basic services, including Traveler Check Exchange.

2B ATM, Banco de Santa Cruz (Bank)Gobernador Gregores, AR, San Martín 402, (02962) 491006.Banco de Santa Cruz w/ATM (Red Link) & basic services, including Traveler Check Exchange.

2E ATM, Banco de Santa Cruz (Bank)El Chaltén, AR, Perito Moreno 28 (Inside the Bus Terminal). Banco de Santa Cruz, ATM (Red Link), situated in the Bus Terminal. No branch.


2A Tourism Information Office, Perito MorenoPerito Moreno, AR, San Martín, (02963) 432732, [email protected] 07h00 - 18h00, Monday - Fridays, & 08h00-15h00 Saturdays & Sundays, this Tourism Information Office is helpful, w/a surprising number of pamphlets & brochures.

2B Tourism Information Office, Gobernador GregoresGobernador Gregores, AR, San Martín 514, (02962) 491259, [email protected] town of Gobernador Gregores has a Tourism Information Office which can provide brochures, maps & advice. Office hours are 08h00-14h00, Mondays - Fridays.

2B Perito Moreno National Park Administrative OfficesGobernador Gregores, AR, San Martín 882, (02962) 491477, www.parquesnacionales.gov.ar/parques, [email protected] Office f/Perito Moreno National Park in Gobernador Gregores, which is the closest town (09h00-16h00, Mondays - Fridays). Once in the park, visit the Information Center to pay entrance fees, get information on the numerous trails, free camping areas, archaeological sites, & nearby Estancias.

2D Tourism Information Office, Tres LagosTres Lagos, AR, San Martin, Block 13, (02962) 495031. The Tourism Information Office is located in the Development Commission of Tres Lagos, AR, & can provide maps, brochures & advice to travelers.

2E Tourism Information Office, El ChalténEl Chaltén, AR, 28 Perito Moreno (Inside the Bus Terminal), (02962) 493370, [email protected] or [email protected]. The Tourism Information Office is in the Bus Terminal has a good supply of brochures, maps & helpful information.

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2E Los Glaciares National ParkEl Chaltén, AR, Viedma Lake Sector, (02962) 493004, www.parquesnacionales.gov.ar/parques, [email protected] Los Glaciares National Park Information Center, named for Park Guard Ceferino Fonzo, provides maps, brochures & interpretative exhibits about the resources within the Park & its flora & fauna. If you want to access the remote areas of the Park, visit the center & meet w/a ranger to obtain permits & comply w/requirements.

2E Los Huemules Private Nature ReserveEl Chaltén, AR, Provincial highway 23, 17 Km north of El Chaltén, (011 SAT), 41525300. www.loshuemules.com, [email protected]. The Private Reserve at Estancia Los Huemules (AR $ 50 entry) is located 17 Km beyond El Chaltén, just after the Electrico River. The Natural Reserve occupies about 5,500 hectares & a range of natural environments; great mountains, glaciers, beech & ñire forests, rivers, lakes, lagoons & wetlands. There are 25 Km of marked trails providing a quiet alternative to the neighboring National Park. Stop by the Visitor Center to learn about the fauna, flora, topography & climate of the region, as well as the accounts of the first explorations, the early inhabitants & pioneers of the area.

GENERAL – SAFETY

2B Police Station, Gobernador GregoresGobernador Gregores, AR, San Martín 1087, (02962) 491055. Investigation & response management in the case of incidents or accidents & assistance w/other aspects of travel logistics.

2D Police Station, Tres LagosTres Lagos, AR, Av San Martín 18, (02962) 495058. Investigation & response management in the case of incidents or accidents & assistance w/other aspects of travel logistics.

2E Police Station, El ChalténEl Chaltén, AR, Av. San Martín 14, (02962) 493003. Investigation & response management in the case of incidents or accidents & assistance w/other aspects of travel logistics.

GENERAL – HEALTH

2A Oscar H. Natale District Hospital, Perito MorenoPerito Moreno, AR, Colón 1237, (02963) 432040. Perito Moreno, 128 Km to the north of Bajo Caracoles, via Route 40, has a small hospital. Services include general medicine, an emergency room, ambulance service & preventative care.

2B District Hospital, Gobernador GregoresGobernador Gregores, AR, Paradelo 1025, (02962) 491027. Services include general medicine, emergency room, ambulance & preventative care.

2D Rural Health Post, Tres LagosTres Lagos, AR, Av San Martín (unnumbered), (02962) 495074. First-aid Center that offers Basic Medical Services including first-aid, general medicine, outpatient care, & preventive medicine.

2E Rural Health Post, El ChalténEl Chaltén, AR, De Agostini (unnumbered), (02962) 493033,

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www.puestosanitarioelchalten.blogspot.com, [email protected]. This is the Provincial medical care establishment f/the community of El Chaltén. It provides primary health care, emergency & basic preventative care. Medical Office Hours: Monday to Friday from 08h00 to 19h00, Saturday from 10h00 to 13h00, & Sundays, from 10h00 to 13h00. In the remaining hours medical care is only f/emergencies.


2B Correo Argentino (Post Office)Gobernador Gregores, AR, Alberdi 490, (02962) 491034. Local branch of Argentina’s national postal service.

2E Correo Argentino (Post Office)El Chaltén, AR, Andreas Madsen 22, (02962) 493172. Local branch of Argentina’s national postal service.


2A LADE Airline, Perito MorenoPerito Moreno, AR, San Martín 1065, (02963) 432055, www.lade.com.ar, [email protected]. LADE flies between Perito Moreno & El Calafate on Thursdays, each week. LADE offers other connections between Esquel, Com. Rivadavia, Ushuaia, & Bariloche, amongst other destinations.

2C LADE Airline, Gobernador GregoresGobernador Gregores, AR, Cristobal Colon 544, (02962) 491008, www.lade.com.ar, [email protected] flies between Perito Moreno & El Calafate on Thursdays, each week. LADE offers other connections between Esquel, Com. Rivadavia, Ushuaia, & Bariloche, amongst other destinations.


2A Buses TaqsaPerito Moreno, AR, Bus Terminal, (02963) 432675, www.taqsa.com.ar. Buses Taqsa, runs the entire stretch of RN 40 between El Calafate & Bariloche several times a week starting at the end of October, stopping at El Chaltén, Bajo Caracoles, Perito Moreno & Esquel.

2C Cerro San Lorenzo Bus StationGobernador Gregores, AR, Beruti 970, (02962) 452403. Taqsa & other bus lines use the Cerro San Lorenzo Bus Depot as their headquarters in Gobernador Gregores. You can go to the Depot f/details, schedules & reservations.

2E Terminal de ÓmnibusEl Chaltén, AR, Perito Moreno 28, (02962) 493370. Bus terminal, which has an ATM Machine and the Tourism Information Office for El Chaltén.

2E Buses TaqsaEl Chaltén, AR, Av Antonio Rojo 88 or in the Omnibus Terminal: Perito Moreno Nº28 loc 2, (02962) 493068 / 493294 / or in the Terminal: 493370 ext. 22, www.taqsa.com.ar. Bus service between El Chaltén & Calafate, as well as to points north in the Province of Santa Cruz.

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2E Cal-tur ÓmnibusEl Chaltén, AR, Av. San Martín 451 or Bus Terminal: Perito Moreno Nº28 loc 3, (02962) 493150, [email protected]. Bus service between El Chaltén & Calafate, as well as to points north in the Santa Cruz Province.

2E Chaltén Travel TurismoEl Chaltén, AR, On the corner of Güemes & Lago del Desierto & in the Bus Terminal: Perito Moreno 28, Location 4, (02962) 493092 or in the terminal: 493392, www.chaltentravel.com, [email protected]. From November 15 to April 4, Chaltén Travel offers bus service between El Calafate & El Chaltén, as well as El Chaltén & points north, including Bajo Caracoles, Perito Moreno, Los Antiguos & Bariloche. You can contact 1 of their offices (El Calafate, AR; El Chaltén, AR; or Coyhaique, CH), f/details, days of departure & arrival, & reservations. Chaltén Travel is the only company specializing in Patagonia transfers along the legendary Route 40, linking Bariloche, Perito Moreno, El Chaltén & El Calafate through a journey of adventure & amazing scenery. Recently they have incorporated the renowned Carretera Austral in Chile into their itineraries, linking the towns of Chile Chico, Chaitén & Coyhaique.


2A Las Lengas TransportationEl Chaltén, AR, Antonio de Viedma 95 or in the Omnibus Terminal, Perito Moreno 28, (02962) 493023 or in the Terminal: 493370 ext. 26. Shuttles directly to El Calafate Airport (AR$120) in high season. Also has minivans to Lago/Laguna del Desierto (AR$130), Hostería El Pilar (AR$50) & Eléctrico River near Los Huemules (AR$50).

2E Walk Patagonia TransportationEl Chaltén, AR, 62 Antonio Rojo Ave. Office 2, (02962) 493275, www.walkpatagonia.com, [email protected]. Transfers in the sector of El Chaltén: El Pilar, Laguna/Lago del Desierto, Bahia Tunel, & special or private trips to & from the El Calafate Airport, in 4x4 vehicles or 15 person minibus.


2A Petrobras La RotondaPerito Moreno, AR, Crossroads of RP 43 & 45, (02963) 432063. Gasoline & diesel fuel sales.

2A YPF Gas StationPerito Moreno, AR, Corner of 9 De Julio & Rivadavia, (02963) 432017. Gasoline & diesel fuel sales.

2B YPF Gas StationGobernador Gregores, AR, Ant Argentina, (02962) 491934. Gasoline & diesel fuel sales.

2D YPF Gas StationTres Lagos, AR, National Route (RN) 40 - 3Kms from Tres Lagos, (02962) 495031. Gasoline & diesel fuel sales. Fresh-baked empanadas & other snacks are often available.

2E El AbueloEl Chaltén, AR, Cerro Solo 27, (02962) 493051. Tire Repair Shop.

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2E El Manto Mechanic & Tire RepairsEl Chaltén, AR, Antonio de Viedma, (02962) 493061. Mechanic & Tire Repair Services.

2E La Estación Gas StationEl Chaltén, AR, Corner of Av Güemes & Perito Moreno, (02962) 493366. Sale of fuels (Nafta), gasoline & diesel.


2E Patagonia Hikes Rentals & Mountain Equipment StoreEl Chaltén, AR, 250 Lago Del Desierto Ave, (02962) 493359, www.patagoniahikes.com. This store allow you to buy or rent equipment f/you mountain adventure in El Chaltén. Top quality national & international brands, which offer a combination of value & quality; all under 1 roof. Don’t freak out if you forget something – they have everything you need.

2E Viento Oeste StoreEl Chaltén, AR, Av. San Martín 898, (02962) 493200, www.elchalten.com/vientooeste. Since 1993, the source f/rental & sale of equipment & clothing (new & used) & the best souvenirs, including rock & ice climbing equipment, jackets, boots, tents, backpacks, sleeping bags, gas canisters & solvent, regional crafts & souvenirs. They also sell books, guides, maps, postcards, posters & technical clothing f/trekking & mountaineering.


2A Hospedaje at the Cueva de las Manos EstanciaBajo Caracoles, AR, Cueva de las Manos Sector, S47 1.4121 - W70 38.517, (011SAT) / (02963) 52374043 / 432319, www.cuevadelasmanos.net, [email protected]. The Guest House of the Estancia has 1 bedroom w/2 single beds, 1 matrimonial room, & 3 triple rooms (1 w/a queen bed & single bed). All are carpeted, w/private baths. The Guest House has a living room area f/relaxing & a restaurant. Everything w/a unique petroglyph style.

2A Hotel Bajo CaracolesBajo Caracoles, AR, Bajo Caracoles, (02963) 490100. The historic Bajo Caracoles Hotel (AR$280) was built in the 1940s, at the height of The Wool Route. Still functional, this is a popular stop f/travelers adventuring on the famous RN-40. Reservations are suggested! A tip: The telephone number provided is a public telephone, located inside the hotel.

2B Estancia El MenelikGobernador Gregores, AR, Traveling south on RN40, at the crossroads in Sector Las Horquetas, take RP 37, west f/80 Km until you reach the Estancia. (011 SAT) 47658085 / 47080217, www.cielospatagonicos.com. Near Perito Moreno National Park & majestic Cerro San Lorenzo, the Menelik Estancia opens its arms to travelers hoping to discover the life of the Patagonian Estancias. There are 2 bedrooms, 1 double & 1 quadruple, w/private baths. 2 shelters f/large families or groups, up to 30 people, access to grills & a kitchen. Typical cuisine featuring home-grown vegetables from the greenhouse, & meats from the Estancia. They also sell gasoline.

2B Estancia La OrientalGobernador Gregores, AR, RP 37, 1 Km from Belgrano Lake, inside Perito Moreno National Park, (02962) 452445 / 452196. Within the Perito Moreno National Park, La Oriental Estancia offers camping, hot showers, lodging, meals, guided horseback trips, & food service f/groups. Minimum 2 night stay. 4 triples & 1 double, w/

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private baths, 1 single w/shared bath & 1 quad room w/a shared bath.

2B Hostería AlberdiGobernador Gregores, AR, Alberdi 678, (02962) 491174. Comfortable fully furnished, equipped apartments, w/breakfast included. Amenities include cable TV, microwave, refrigerator, private bath, dishes, linens, etc. Strategically located on Alberdi Street between Belgrano Avenue & Perito Moreno, just 100 meters from the shopping center of town.

2B Hostería KaikenGobernador Gregores, AR, Belgrano 251, (02962) 491157, www.kaiken-gregores.com.ar, [email protected]. Comfortable lodging; a mix of apartments & rooms w/private baths, breakfast, cable TV, refrigerator, microwave, shuttle service, Wi-Fi, room service & laundry service. Friendly, personalized attention, provided by the owners. The owners write, “We hope you leave w/fantastic memories of our hostería & Gobernador Gregores, where you’ll receive typical Patagonia style hospitality.

2B Hotel Cañadón LeónGobernador Gregores, AR, Roca 397, (02962) 491082, [email protected]. 11 rooms that are ample & spotless (s/d/tr AR$230/280/370). Reserve ahead.

2C Estancia Laguna VerdeGobernador Gregores, AR, Located 115 kilometers from Gobernador Gregores. Following RP 29, heading southwest, you’ll take an Estancia Road to the right, a few Km after crossing over RN 40 & a few Km before reaching Lago Cardiel. More precise coordinates & directions provided by lodge. (02954) 454216, www.Estancialagunaverde.com, [email protected]. The Lodge is located beside the beautiful Laguna Verde (Green Lagoon), named f/its particularly colorful waters. You’ll be just a cast away from fantastic rainbow trout fishing, w/average catches of 2-4 Kilos. The Lodge is a typical “Estancia house” w/3 double bedrooms w/“en suite” baths, accommodating only as many as 6 anglers per week. The Lodge offers Satellite & IP telephone & free unlimited WiFi access. Electricity 24 hours a day (220 volt.), provided by wind generators w/fuel generators as back up. Estancia Laguna Verde offers excellent cuisine, preparing typical Argentinean food, including great Asados of the famous Patagonian lamb, & great wines.

2C Estancia La AngosturaGobernador Gregores, AR, RP 29, Km 91.5, (02962) 491501, http://www.Estanciariocapitan.com.ar.This Patagonian ranch located in the Chico River Valley, is surrounded by tulip groves. It was founded by the Piñero-Kusanovic family during the colonization of this sector. 5 rooms w/private baths, & camping f/a total capacity of 23 guests. There Camping area has hot water & baths. The Angostura Estancia is 55 Km from Governor Gregores, along Route 40. It’s a “must-do” f/birdwatchers, home to birds not often spotted, including the austral rail (rallus antarcticus) & the hooded grebe (podiceps gallardoi).

2C Estancia Los GranaderosGobernador Gregores, AR, RP 77 www.ealosgranaderos.com.ar, [email protected] Granaderos Estancia, located near the Chico River, was founded in 1916 during a time when the high demand f/wool, driven by WWI, was creating a small gold rush of sorts, in the Estancias of Patagonia. Guests can sleep in the ranch facilities; 1 double w/2 beds, 1 matrimonial & 1 triple. Each equipped w/a spacious living room, terrace & bath.

2D Estancia El Cóndor Tres Lagos, AR, From the YPF, take RP 31 f/72 Km until you reach the top of Cerro Kach Aike, veer left, turning onto RP 33. Travel another 48 Km; you’ll cross through various gates of neighboring Estancias, following the shoreline of San Martin Lake. 011 (SAT)

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47658085 / 47080217, www.cielospatagonicos.com.The Estancia has 2 doubles & 1 quad, all w/private baths. Typical meals are served, featuring home-grown vegetables from the greenhouse & meats from the Estancia.

2E Albergue PatagoniaEl Chaltén, AR, Av San Martín 493, (02962) 493019, www.patagoniahostel.com.ar, [email protected]. Located in the heart of Chaltén, on the main avenue, just 300 meters from the start of the trails of Glacier National Park. (Doubles & matrimonials, w/o private baths AR $ 60/190; singles, doubles, triples, $ 270/320/360; September - May). Member of Hosteling International. Everything you need f/a comfortable stay, at affordable prices. They make great efforts to be sustainable & minimize negative ecological impacts of hostel. Provide materials to inform guests how to reduce their impacts during the amazing hiking the area has to offer. The Hostel has a fleet of Mountain Bike Zenith available to rent so you can roam around the area, including Lake Viedma & Laguna/Lago del Desierto.

2E B & B NothofagusEl Chaltén, AR, Corner of Hensen & Riquelme, (02962) 493087, www.nothofagusbb.com.ar, [email protected]. This quaint B & B (AR$190/200/280, s/d/tr October – April) offers 3 rooms w/private baths & 4 w/shared baths. The house has central heating, individually controlled in each room. Full breakfast is included w/lodging. The owners offer a book exchange, places to store equipment, a non-smoking environment, & friendly service.

2E Estancia La QuintaEl Chaltén, AR, Entrance to El Chaltén, RP 23, (02962) 493012, www.Estancialaquinta.com.ar, [email protected]. La Quinta Estancia offers comfortable rooms, a cozy atmosphere, & unique special touches like a second floor living area w/panoramic views, where you can relax w/a good book from the Estancia’s historical library of 1,000+ Patagonia-themed books. Check out the small exhibit of antiques & memorabilia dedicated to Yerba Mate, in the breakfast nook. In the dining room located in the main house of the Estancia, you can try local favorites including breads, pastas, jams, cakes, fine fruits & cheeses, & meats from the Estancia. The owners offer a guided tour through the Estancia, filled w/stories & history of the 100+ years their family has spent in this sector of the world. It’s a lot of fun & filled w/fascinating tales of gauchos, explorers & adventurers.

2E Hostería B & B SenderosEl Chaltén, AR, Perito Moreno, (02962) 493336, www.senderoshostería.com.ar, info@senderoshostería.com.ar. Senderos Hostería is the ideal place to live during your adventures in Patagonia. This hostería borrows design inspiration from the 1920s in Patagonia, & combines w/modern hotel comfort. The Inn offers guests 20 comfortable rooms & a Family Suite. They provide guests w/the following services: American-style breakfast buffet, wine bar, study w/a log burning fireplace corner, reading room, bilingual receptionists, room service, boxed lunches, laundry service, transfers in/out.

2E Hostería Cóndor de Los AndesEl Chaltén, AR, cnr Río de las Vueltas & Halvor Halvorsen, (02962) 493101, www.condordelosandes.com. Cozy, quiet atmosphere, & excellent attention are why you should choose this hostería. Cóndor de los Andes (double queen/double AR$90/310Week; October - April) services include: a fully equipped kitchen f/guests, central heating, private baths, luggage storage, a laundry, living room w/fireplace, personal safes, a library, breakfasts, boxed lunches, & dinners. Member of Hostelling International.

2E Hostería Confín PatagónicoEl Chaltén, AR, Av. Lago del Desierto 436, (02962) 493094, www.elchalten.com/confinpatagonico, [email protected]. Enjoy the comfort of Hostería Confín Patagónico, w/4, fully equipped brand new rooms, each w/private bath, & a warm friendly style, typical of Patagonian hospitality. You’ll be taken care of personally,

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by the owners, w/lots of special care. The tiny inn has a maximum capacity of 8 guests in 4 double rooms, & a family atmosphere. During your visit, try some of the authentic flavors of Patagonian; sample homemade sweets & cakes, served w/stories of life in El Chaltén.

2E Hostería El PumaEl Chaltén, AR, Lionel Terray 212, (02962) 493095, www.hosteríaelpuma.com.ar, info@hosteríaelpuma.com.ar. Hostería El Puma is located in the village, at the convergence of the area’s trail heads, providing perfect accommodations f/visitors who appreciate a relaxing & comfortable place to call home during their stay. “Member of Ten Rivers & Ten Lakes Lodges & Boutique Hotels”.

2E Hostería KoonekEl Chaltén, AR, Lionel Terray 415, (02962) 493304, www.hosteríakoonek.com.ar, consultas@hosteríakoonek.com.ar. Great service in an environment that lets you feel at home, taken care of, & able to relax after your long trip or a hike. Inn (d/tr AR$280/320; October - May) is located meters away from the main trekking trail accesses in town. Includes singles, doubles, triples, & quadruple rooms; all clean & comfortable, w/private baths & central heating. Our inn has a living room w/satellite TV, WI-FI Service, free continental breakfast each day, & laundry Service. The inn is managed by the owners.

2E Hotel Los CerrosEl Chaltén, AR, Av San Martín 260, (02962) 493182, www.loscerrosdelchalten.com, [email protected]. Hotel (s / d AR $ 1174/1384; November - April) offers 44 rooms, conveying a warm simplicity that blends w/the environment. Each habitation boasts contemporary design & neutral tones, accentuating the view outside the large windows. Restaurant offers a varied menu that surprises even the most demanding gourmet. The kitchen combines the best flavors of the region & traditions of the pioneers w/the innovations of new international cuisine.

2E Posada InlandsisEl Chaltén, AR, Lago del Desierto 480, (02962) 493276, www.inlandsis.com.ar, [email protected]. Relax in this cozy inn w/8 double rooms & private baths (small/large d AR $ 210/280, October - April). Enjoy the unique & breathtaking views of Fitz Roy & Torre & De las Vueltas River Valley. Delicious breakfast featuring homemade products. Internet access w/separate terminal f/guests.

2E Posada La BaseEl Chaltén, AR, Calle 10, No 16, (02962) 493031, www.elchaltenpatagonia.com.ar. 6 rooms, (d/tr/q AR$320/360/400), w/garden access, private baths & shared kitchen, where you’ll find the elements f/breakfast. Above reception area, there’s a loft w/satellite TV, DVDs, books & Internet connection. Great choice f/travelers who enjoy self-service & making themselves at home.

2E Posada LunajuimEl Chaltén, AR, Trevisán 45, (02962) 493047, www.lunajuim.com, [email protected]. Located downtown, Lunajuim (s/d/tr AR$574/701/838) offers views of Fitz Roy & Torre, proximity to restaurants, shopping & trails + a great breakfast buffet & DIY boxed lunches. Casually elegant, w/a lovely dining-living room, w/fireplace & library to make you feel at home. 26 comfortable doubles & 4 triples, private baths, central heating, in-room lock boxes, full comfort mattresses, Egyptian cotton blankets (the essence of comfort & softness) & goose down quilts.

2E Youth Hostel Rancho GrandeEl Chaltén, AR, Av San Martín 724, (02962) 493092, www.ranchograndehostel.com, [email protected]. Mainstay f/youth groups & independent travelers (double queen/double/triple AR$70/270/290). Quads & Sextuples w/shared baths, doubles w/private baths. Quads can also be reserved as triples. Relax w/friends in big central lounge filled w/giant windows. Member of Hostelling International.

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2A Cabaña at the Cueva de las Manos EstanciaBajo Caracoles, AR, Cueva de las Manos, (011 SAT) / (02963) 52374043 / 432319, www.cuevadelasmanos.net, [email protected]. Nice, clean cabaña f/6 people, carpeted, w/a private bath & heating. Guests have access to the living room area & restaurant located in the Guest House.

2B Cabañas Las NoriasGobernador Gregores, Cañadón León 208, (02962) 491016, www.lasnorias.com.ar, [email protected]. Comfortable accommodations & friendly service in a forested grove near Chico River. Crafted from Lenga, native to Patagonia forests. Heated & fully equipped f/4 people w/great kitchens & views of the park. Services include: cable TV, Wi-Fi & ample parking, a few meters from town’s center.

2B Cabañas María AbrilGobernador Gregores, AR, Av. Cañadón León 608, (02962) 491011, www.mariabril.com, [email protected]. 4 fully equipped cabañas, f/2-5 people, each.

2D Huentru Niyeu CabañasTres Lagos, AR, General Valley, (02962) 495006, [email protected]. Cabañas,w/private baths, laundry service & boxed lunches.

2E Cabañas Anita’s HouseEl Chaltén, AR, Av San Martín 249, (02962) 493288, www.anitashouse.com.ar, [email protected]. Cluster of cabañas (2/3/4 persons, AR$380/400/450), perfectly located in the center of El Chaltén, just 200 m from the trails. Service provided by the owners, ensuring extra special care.

2E Cabañas Aires del FitzEl Chaltén, AR, Av Ricardo Arbilla 124, (02962) 493134, www.airesdelfitz.com.ar, [email protected] of cabañas with options for 2-3 persons or up to 6. Totally equipped with TV, DVD, hair-dryers, daily cleaning service, and views of Fitz Roy.

2E Cabañas El RelinchoEl Chaltén, AR, Av San Martín 505, (02962) 493007, www.elrelinchopatagonia.com.ar.Conveniently located on a large site close which includes a playground, grills, a multipurpose room & breakfast area. Fully equipped f/4 to 6 people, w/2 bedrooms, kitchen & bath.

2E Cabañas InlandsisEl Chaltén, AR, Lago del Desierto 480, (02962) 493276, www.inlandsis.com.ar, [email protected]. Cozy split level cabañas f/2/3/4 or 6 people (AR$400/430/460/530; October - April). Fully equipped w/2 bedrooms, bathtubs, central heating, great kitchens, TV, DVD & Wi-Fi.

2E Eco Camp, Fitz Roy ExpeditionsEl Chaltén, AR, 17 Km north of El Chaltén, (2494) / (02962) 496424 / 493178, www.fitzroyexpediciones.com.ar, [email protected] Km north of el Chaltén. This cozy timber lodge is built on the shore of the de Las Vueltas River, w/unique views of Fitz Roy’s north face. Fabulous dining room, wrapping w/beautiful wood crafted interior. 8 wilderness cabañas, each w/2 beds, wood burning stoves, & private decks. Separate bathing

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area offers hot showers. In between camping & a hotel. The restaurant offers a variety of regional dishes & house specialty, grilled meats.

WHERE TO SLEEP – CAMPING

2A Sleeping Shelter at the Cueva de las Manos EstanciaBajo Caracoles, AR, Cueva de las Manos Sector, 011 (SAT) / (02963) 52374043 / 432319, www.cuevadelasmanos.net, [email protected]. Sleeping shelter divided into 2 separate rooms; each w/shared bath. Each side accommodates 20 people. Guests have access to the living room area & restaurant located in the Guest House.

2B Camping (Free) at the Information Center, Perito Moreno National ParkGobernador Gregores, AR, Administration Sector, (02962), 491477, www.parquesnacionales.gov.ar/parques/, [email protected]. Free however, site is barren & exposed. Pit toilets, no shower facilities. Fires are not permitted.

2B Camping El Rincón (Free), Perito Moreno National ParkGobernador Gregores, AR, Sector El Rincón, (02962) 491477, www.parquesnacionales.gov.ar/parques, [email protected]. Free camping area, El Rincón Sector, at foot of Cerro Leon. Includes pit toilets (no shower) & stone shelter wind breaks. Small Museum features history of area. Campfires prohibited; only camp stoves.

2B Camping Lago Burmeister (Free), Perito Moreno National ParkGobernador Gregores, AR, Sector Lago Burmeister, (02962) 491477, www.parquesnacionales.gov.ar/parques/, [email protected]. Free campgrounds at Lago Burmeister, 16 Km from information center, scenic & well sheltered sites among dense Lenga forest & campfires allowed. No showers but there are pit toilets.

2B Camping Municipal Nuestra Señora del ValleGobernador Gregores, AR, Corner of Roca & Chile, (02962) 491398, [email protected]. Municipal summer-only campground, free campsites, hot showers & grilling areas.

2B Dormis María AbrilGobernador Gregores, AR, Av. Cañadón León 608, (02962), www.mariabril.com, [email protected]. 3 “dormis” which are private havens, where 2 people can sleep in a bed, protected from the weather, w/heating (way, way, way better than camping!). The “dormis” have a shared bath & towels. They also have a place f/breakfast, dining, & just “hanging around”, fully equipped f/cooking.

2D Camping of Tres LagosSanta Cruz, Tres Lagos, AR, On the corner of Pte. Aramburu & Fausto Ballina, (02962) 495031. Low cost (US$2.50/tent + US$1/vehicle) municipal camping. Electricity & hot showers (US$0.50).

2E Camping Capri Lagoon (Free, Spaces Limited), Los Glaciares National ParkEl Chaltén, AR, Sector Capri Lagoon, (02962), 493004, www.parquesnacionales.gov.ar/parques.Free Primitive Camping - No services. No fires. Camp only where permitted, do not cut/carve trees, pitch tent 50+ m from water courses. Do not to leave any signs of your presence. Do not dig ditches or litter. Campground has 1 pit toilet. Wash downstream from campground & pack out all trash. Campsites accessible between September & May, depending on climatic conditions.

2E Camping Confluencia (Free, Spaces Limited), Los Glaciares National Park

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El Chaltén, AR, Confluence of the Fitz Roy & De Las Vueltas Rivers, (02962) 493004, www.parquesnacionales.gov.ar/parques. Free Primitive Camping - No services. No fires. Camp only where permitted, do not cut/carve trees, pitch tent 50+ m from water courses. Do not to leave any signs of your presence. Do not dig ditches or litter. Campground has 1 pit toilet. Wash downstream from campground & pack out all trash. Campsites accessible between September & May, depending on climatic conditions.

2E Camping El Blanco River (Free, Climbers-only, Spaces Limited), Los Glaciares National ParkEl Chaltén, AR, Blanco River Sector, (02962) 493004, www.parquesnacionales.gov.ar/parques.Free Primitive Climber-Only Camping - No services. No fires. Camp only where permitted, do not cut/carve trees, pitch tent 50+ m from water courses. Do not to leave any signs of your presence. Do not dig ditches or litter. Campground has 1 pit toilet. Wash downstream from campground & pack out all trash. Campsites accessible between September & May, depending on climatic conditions.

2E Camping El RefugioEl Chaltén, AR, Calle 3, (02962) 493221. Private campground (per person AR$25, double matrimonial AR$50) w/simple sleeping refuge within walking distance of downtown El Chaltén. Next to the De Las Vueltas River, an easy spot to enjoy the beauty of Patagonia on a budget, w/grassy areas, trees, & views of the mountains. Hot showers & BBQ pits are provided f/campers. Most sites are exposed & there is sparse firewood (fires OK).

2E Camping El RelinchoEl Chaltén, AR, Av San Martín 505, (02962) 493007, www.elrelinchopatagonia.com.ar.Enjoy nature in the heart of El Chaltén. Meters from De las Vueltas River, in site w/native trees that provide shelter & BBQ areas equipped w/fireplaces & / or grills, spaces f/trailers & tents.

2E Camping Madsen (Free, Spaces Limited) - Los Glaciares National ParkEl Chaltén, AR, Northern Limit of town, (02962) 493004, www.parquesnacionales.gov.ar/parques. Free Primitive Camping - No services. No fires. Camp only where permitted, do not cut/carve trees, pitch tent 50+ m from water courses. Do not to leave any signs of your presence. Do not dig ditches or litter. Campground has 1 pit toilet. Wash downstream from campground & pack out all trash. Campsites accessible between September & May, depending on climatic conditions.

2E Camping Poincenot (Free, Spaces Limited), Los Glaciares National ParkEl Chaltén, AR, Sector Poincenot, (02962) 493004, www.parquesnacionales.gov.ar/parques. Free Primitive Camping - No services. No fires. Camp only where permitted, do not cut/carve trees, pitch tent 50+ m from water courses. Do not to leave any signs of your presence. Do not dig ditches or litter. Campground has 1 pit toilet. Wash downstream from campground & pack out all trash. Campsites accessible between September & May, depending on climatic conditions.


2A Restaurant at the Cueva de las Manos EstanciaBajo Caracoles, AR, Cueva de las Manos, (011 SAT) / (02963) 52374043 / 432319, www.cuevadelasmanos.net, [email protected]. Serving breakfast, lunch, dinner, coffee & bar services. Voted “the best breakfast in Argentina!”

2B Restaurant Cañadón LeónGobernador Gregores, AR, Roca 397, (02962) 491082, [email protected]. Regional specialties & local atmosphere. Check to see if they are serving Gnocchi, a popular local dish.

2B Restaurant El Criollo

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Gobernador Gregores, AR, 12 De Octubre 525, (02962) 491210. Pleasant atmosphere, grilled local meats, pastas, beef sausage, milanesas, & other dishes from Patagonia.

2D Restaurant AhonikenkTres Lagos, AR, Downtown area. Regional specialties & local atmosphere. Helpful information about town, lodging & things to do.

2E Café & Ice Cream Domo BlancoEl Chaltén, AR, Av. San Martín 164, (02962) 493368, www.domoblancoheladeria.com.ar. The first artisan ice creams manufactured in El Chaltén. Made w/fresh & natural products, (local as often as possible). The best thing going in southern Patagonia! Also serve sandwiches, crepes, boxed lunches, coffees, teas & tempting baked goods. Definitely worth a visit!

2E Café Del BosqueEl Chaltén, AR, San Martin 99, (02962) 493093. Cafe in the center of El Chaltén w/sandwiches, cakes, alfajores y waffles.

2E Café La LucindaEl Chaltén, AR, Av San Martín 175, (02962), 493202, www.facebook.com/lalucinda.lucinda, [email protected]. This artsy, sky-blue cafe is friendly & almost always open & breakfast is served too! In the words of the founder, “I thought of a warm & friendly atmosphere in which to rest, listen to good music, drink coffee, read stories & travel accounts. A place to do what I like: look at the landscape, paint a picture, eat something delicious & tie a fly.” Homemade soups & stews, hot sandwiches (including good vegetarian options) & a selection of coffees, teas & wine.

2E Café La WafleríaEl Chaltén, AR, Av San Martin 640, (02962) 493093. Customers rave over both the waffles, which come in a mind boggling variety of forms & flavors, & the sandwiches at La Wafleria. This El Chaltén must-taste is great before & after days on the trail.

2E Chocolate Shop & Café Josh AikeEl Chaltén, AR, Av. Lago del Desierto 107, (02962) 493008, www.elchalten.com/lachoco, [email protected]. You will find this chocolate shop overflowing w/the finest artisan chocolate bars, candied fruits, alfajores & cakes, like your grandmother would make. All other sorts of richness that will turn a bad weather day into a wonderful day! They also serve delicious pizzas & fondue (cheese or chocolate)!

2E Pub & Music ZafarranchoEl Chaltén, AR, Lionel Terray 330, behind Rancho Grande Hostel, (02962) 493022, www.guiachalten.com.ar/zafarrancho. Located 20 m from Hostel Rancho Grande, Zafarrancho offers great local cuisine & superb home-made pasta in a cozy atmosphere. Tuesdays, Thursdays & Saturdays, the latest films are shown in their theater. Also indulge in their delicious home-made cakes, served w/tea, coffee or hot chocolate. Quality wines & varied drinks complete the tempting offer.

3E Restaurant & Pub El MuroEl Chaltén, AR, Av. San Martin 912, (02962) 493248, [email protected]. Inviting indoor & outdoor restaurant/bar serving homemade pastas, pizzas, grilled lamb, home-made beers & boutique wines. Music. Climbing wall to practice on before you try the beer.

2E Restaurant & Pub EstepaEl Chaltén, AR, Corner of Cerro Solo & Antonio Rojo, (02962) 493069, [email protected], [email protected].

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Local favorite; flavorful dishes like Lamb w/Calafate Sauce, Trout Ravioli & Spinach Crepes.

2E Restaurant & Pub La CerveceriaEl Chaltén, AR, Av. San Martin 564, (02962) 493109, www.elchalten.com/cerveceria, [email protected]. 2 traditional beers, a dark, turbid bock & a blond pilsner. Both brews, follow traditional recipes from the Bohemian Region of Czechoslovakia, free of additives & preservatives & served from barrels in which they are aged. Warm, rustic setting filled w/great music. Attended by the owners. Specialties including Locro, a traditional stew, empanadas, pizzas, sandwiches & dessert pies in a variety of flavors. If you find yourself w/the inspiration, guitars & traditional drums are always available to be played.

2E Restaurant & Pub La TaperaEl Chaltén, AR, Corner of Antonio Rojo & Cabo García, (02962) 493195. Mountain lodge setting w/varied menu. Specialties include tapas, soups & unique twists on regional traditions like Wild Mushroom Gnocchi & Lamb Ravioli. Several creative & delicious vegetarian offerings. Great local beers & Argentinean wines. Personal attention from beginning to end.

2E Restaurant Como Vaca ParrillaEl Chaltén, AR, Lago del Desierto 410, (02962) 493086. The majority of visitors to Como Vaca Parilla report having eaten 1 of the best steaks of their travels. Grilled steaks are the specialty at this restaurant which also offers grilled chicken & lamb, enormous salads, Provençal french fries, homemade pastas & soups. The wines are a value.

2E Restaurant Fonda AhonikenkEl Chaltén, AR, Av. M. Güemes, (02962) 493070. Daily menu w/entree & drink. Good collection of Argentine wines. Reasonable prices.

2E Restaurant Fuegia BistroEl Chaltén, AR, Av. San Martin 342, (02962) 493243, [email protected]. Favored f/a warm ambiance & savory main dishes, this upscale eatery has veggie options & a reasonable wine list. Try Pasta w/Ricotta, Spinach & Fresh Mushrooms, or Trout w/Lemon.

2E Restaurant La CasitaEl Chaltén, AR, Av San Martin 430, (02962) 493042. Located in a house & the family serves you in their large living/dining room. The chef & hostess provides excellent regional dishes including pastas, lasagnas, empanadas, milanesas & much more. According to her own accounts, she gets up very early every day to cook these delicious plates so as to delight her hungry guests. Prices are reasonable & the quality is very good. Do not pass this one by!

2E Restaurant Mi Viejo ParillaEl Chaltén, AR, San Martin 780, (02962) 493123. Grill & restaurant a la carte. Lamb, roast meat, trout, pasta, fast food & a great selection of the best Argentine wines. Run by the owners.

2E Restaurant PatagonicusEl Chaltén, AR, Bv. Güemes 54, (02962) 493025, [email protected]. The best pizza in town, w/20 kinds of pie, salads & wine served at sturdy wood tables surrounded by huge picture windows. Cakes & coffee are also worth trying.

2E Restaurant Ruca MahuidaEl Chaltén, AR, 55 Lionel Terray, (02962) 493018, www.altamontpatagonia.com/ruca, [email protected]. Innovative recipes elaborated by passionate chefs using heritage South American & local ingredients, are what they describe as their local Patagonian gastronomy. Recommended as 1 of the best options in El Chaltén, w/a creative menu & fine selection of excellent Argentinean wines in a cozy atmosphere.

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Dedicated staff will make you feel at home. Open from late October through March.


2B Supermarket El ChanguitoGobernador Gregores, AR, San Martín 698, (02962) 491073. A visit to the Changuito Supermarket provides a contrast to chain stores & a look into daily life in small towns of Patagonian Argentina. Check out their cheeses & cold cuts, as well as fresh breads.

2B Supermarket La AnónimaGobernador Gregores, AR, San Martin 680, (02962) 491073 / 491100, www.laanonima.com.ar. A visit provides you w/the opportunity to stock up on provisions at reasonable prices & to see a typical Argentine Supermarket. This national chain has over 122 stores in 69 cities & is woven into the fabric of most residents’ lives. The Anónima in Gobernador Gregores offers dry goods, beverages, wine & beer, delicatessen w/cheeses & meats, fresh vegetables & fruits, a bakery, butcher’s shop, etc. You can also find personal care items & even a thermos, bombilla & calabaza f/drinking yerba mate. Open daily, 09h00 – 13h30 & afternoons from 17h00 – 21h30.

2E Supermarket El GringuitoEl Chaltén, AR, Cerro Solo 108, (02962) 493065. A small supermarket that offers the opportunity to buy basic supplies such as cold cuts, cheese, bread, coffee, tea, yerba mate & a limited variety of vegetables & fruits.

2E Supermarket El SúperEl Chaltén, AR, Corner of Güemes & Lago del Desierto, (02962) 493039. A small supermarket that offers the opportunity to buy basic supplies such as cold cuts, cheese, bread, coffee, tea, yerba mate & a limited variety of vegetables & fruits.

2E Supermarket La Tostadora ModernaEl Chaltén, AR, Corner of Av. San Martín 36 & Av. Lago del Desierto, (02962) 493174. A small supermarket that offers the opportunity to buy basic supplies such as cold cuts, cheese, bread, coffee, tea, yerba mate & a limited variety of vegetables & fruits.

GASTRONOMY - BAKERIES (PANADERIAS)

2E Panadería La NieveEl Chaltén, AR, Güemes, (02962) 493035. Facturas & breads, baked goods, coffee, tea, chocolates, sandwiches, drinks. Boxed lunches.

2E Panadería Los SaltenosEl Chaltén, AR, Av. San Martin 948. Facturas & breads, baked goods, coffee, tea, chocolates, sandwiches, drinks. Boxed lunches.

2E Panadería Que rikaEl Chaltén AR, Güemes 120, (02962) 493107. Facturas & breads, baked goods, coffee, tea, chocolates, sandwiches, drinks. Boxed lunches.

2E Panadería Que rika (2nd Location)El Chaltén, AR, Av San Martin 91, (02962) 493107. Facturas & breads, baked goods, coffee, tea, chocolates, sandwiches, drinks. Boxed lunches.

2E Panadería & Confiteria Lo de Haydee

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El Chaltén, AR, Lago del Desierto 250, (02962) 493272. Facturas & breads, baked goods, coffee, tea, chocolates, sandwiches, drinks. Boxed lunches.

GASTRONOMY – TO GO

2D YPF Gas StationTres Lagos, AR, National Route (RN) 40 - 3Kms from Tres Lagos, (02962) 495031. Very good fresh-baked empanadas & other snacks are available at this YPF station.

2E Domo Blanco Ice Cream & CaféEl Chaltén, AR, Av. San Martín 164, (02962) 493368, www.domoblancoheladeria.com.ar. First artisan ice creams manufactured in El Chaltén. Made w/fresh & natural products, (local as often as possible), these ice creams are the best thing going in southern Patagonia. Domo Blanco also serves sandwiches, crepes, boxed lunches & a variety of coffees, teas & tempting baked goods.

2E Nipo Nino Rotisserie & Food to GoEl Chaltén, AR, Avenida San Martin 872, (02962), 493100, [email protected], boxed lunches, & rotisserie offering authentic Patagonia tastes & culinary knowledge. Famous f/empanadas in a variety of flavors like beef, chicken, vegetables & ham & cheese. Other specialties include beef milanesas & chicken supreme sandwiches, pastas & lasagna, gnocchi, dumplings & noodles, pizzas & traditional dishes, like locro, lentil stew, & soups. All homemade using family recipes.


2A Cueva de las Manos Estancia ToursBajo Caracoles, AR, Cueva de las Manos, (011 SAT) / (02963) 52374043 / 432319, www.cuevadelasmanos.net, [email protected]. 18 Km journey (4x4 vehicle or horseback), & hiking through Canyon (2½ Km) to Cueva de las Manos. Other tours: Charcamata Overhang Petroglyphs, (60 Km 4X4, Horses, Hiking), Laguna Honda (80 Km, 4X4, Hiking) Cave of the Condors (50 Km, 4X4, Horses, Hiking). Tours include SUV, transport, bilingual guide, explanation of landscapes & archeology & boxed lunch.

2A GuanaCondor ToursPerito Moreno, AR, Perito Moreno 1087, (02963) 432303, [email protected] excursions to the Cueva de las Manos, w/hike through Canyon to access Site. Great twist! Stop by their offices in Perito Moreno, (Mondays, Wednesdays, Saturdays:10h00 - 12h00 & 16h00 - 20h00; Sundays: 17h00 - 20h00). The price is approximately AR$250 per person.

2A Alta MontañaEl Chaltén, AR, 104 Lionel Terray, (02962) 493018, www.altamontpatagonia.com, [email protected] commitment to mountaineering & skiing, love f/nature, & lifetime exploring Patagonia, the Andes & the endless diversity of spectacular landscapes in Argentina & Chile.

2A Casa de GuíasEl Chaltén, AR, San Martín Ave, (02962) 493118, www.casadeguias.com.ar, [email protected]. Specialized in Trekking & Mountaineering, authorized Tour Operator f/Los Glaciares National Park. Offer selection of itineraries f/day trekking, multi-day campsite to campsite trekking, backcountry expeditions, mountaineering, rock & ice climbing, & a range of other activities.

2E El Chaltén Mountain GuidesEl Chaltén, AR, 218 San Martín Ave, (02962) 493329, www.ecmg.com.ar, [email protected].

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Main activities include continental ice cap traverse, ice climbing & rock climbing seminars, glacier management & crevasse rescue courses, & ascents of Guillaumet Needle, Cerro Gorra Blanca, & Cerro Solo. Offer backcountry skiing, intro mountaineering courses & hiking.

2E Fitz Roy ExpeditionsEl Chaltén, AR, 56 San Martín Ave, (02962) 496424 / 493178, www.fitzroyexpediciones.com.ar, [email protected]. Operating the best trekking programs in southern Patagonia since 1985. Always looking f/new itineraries, unique expeditions, little known spots, etc, in constant quest to offer the highest quality outdoor activities in the area, e.g., their Ice Field Expeditions, running w/great success f/years.

2E Los Huemules Private Nature ReserveEl Chaltén, AR, State highway 23, 17 Km north of El Chaltén, (011 SAT) 41525300, www.loshuemules.com, [email protected]. Located 17 Km beyond El Chaltén, just after the Electrico River. 5,500 hectares, mountains, glaciers, beech & ñire forests, rivers, lakes, lagoons & wetlands. 25 Km of marked trails; a quiet alternative to National Park. Stop by Visitor Center to learn about fauna, flora, topography, climate & accounts of the first explorations, the early inhabitants & pioneers of the area. (AR $ 50 entry)

2E Mountaineering PatagoniaEl Chaltén, AR, 16 San Martín (02962) 493194, www.mount-patagonia.com.ar. An official service provider f/the Los Glaciares National Park, specializing in mountain excursions & adventure tourism. Diverse activities offered w/high quality service. Specialized guides that adapt their skills & styles to each type of excursion & group, w/an emphasis on personalized service.

2E NYCAEl Chaltén, AR, Cabo García 122, (02962) 493185, www.nyca.com.ar, [email protected]. NYCA offers a range of extreme activities w/maximum safety & fun. Adventures include climbing tours & trekking in the mountains, the Southern Ice Field & the glaciers.

2E Oscar Pandolfi ExpeditionsEl Chaltén, AR, Av. Santa Cruz, (02962), 493043, [email protected] worked w/more than 4,000 trekkers around the world. Standard & custom packages, group & individual rates, day trips, travel arrangements & just plain advice (free!). Contact them f/details!

2E Patagonia AventuraEl Chaltén, AR, 56 San Martín, (02962) 493110, www.patagonia-aventura.com. The Viedma Glacier is the second largest in Patagonia & one of the few w/easy access f/visitors. This full day multisport Glacier & Lake Excursion offers a catamaran trip, hiking, & ice trekking.

2E Patagonia Hikes Excursions & ExpeditionsEl Chaltén, AR, 250 Lago Del Desierto Ave, (02962) 493359, www.patagoniahikes.com.Official Mountain Guide Company f/Los Glaciares National Park w/programs & itineraries f/all levels of experience. Full & multi-day treks, ice-climbing & rock-climbing schools, expeditions across the Southern Ice Field & Ascents.

2E Patagonia MágicaEl Chaltén, AR, Fonrouge, (02944) 486261, www.patagoniamagica.com, [email protected]. Mountain expeditions, logistics, guided mountaineering ascents, trekking & hiking trips, rock & ice climbing workshops, touring & backcountry ski excursions & expeditions in the Andes & volcanoes. Guides are AAGM (Argentine Mountain Guide Association) certified & licensed to work in the National Park.

2E Serac Expeditions

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El Chaltén, AR, 175 San Martín Ave, (02962) 493371, www.serac.com.ar, [email protected]. Serac Expeditions offers adventure programs in mountain environments. Ten years+ experience & focused, values-based approach, based on Commitment, Quality Services & Safety.

2E Walk Patagonia Expeditions & ExcursionsEl Chaltén, AR, 62 Antonio Rojo Ave. N°2, (02962) 493275, www.walkpatagonia.com, [email protected]. Discover Patagonia through all 5 senses! This Glaciares National Park trekking service provider offers various trekking options f/discovering glaciers, lagoons & mountains w/specialized Mountain Guides. If you are seeking something a bit more extreme, try their amazing expedition to 1 of the most remote areas in the world, the Southern Patagonia Ice Field. Prepare f/the trek of a lifetime!


2E NYCAEl Chaltén, AR, Cabo García 122, (02962) 493185, www.nyca.com.ar, [email protected]. NYCA offers a range of extreme activities w/maximum safety & fun. Adventures include kayak & rafting on the area’s many rivers.

2E Patagonia AventuraEl Chaltén, AR, 56 Av. San Martín, (02962) 493110, www.patagonia-aventura.com.ar, [email protected]. The Viedma Lake & Glacier Multisport Excursion includes a catamaran trip, hiking, & ice trekking to the second largest Glacier in Patagonia, 1 of the few w/easy access f/visitors.

2E Serac ExpeditionsEl Chaltén, AR, 175 San Martín Ave, (02962) 493371, www.serac.com.ar, [email protected]. Offer kayaking activities in the area surrounding El Chaltén, w/over ten years’ experience & an approach based on our values: Commitment, Quality Services & Safety.


2A Cueva de las Manos Estancia ToursBajo Caracoles, AR, Cueva de las Manos Sector, (011 SAT) / (02963), 52374043 / 432319, www.cuevadelasmanos.net, [email protected] tour from the Estancia to the Roballos Frontier & the Los Antiguos Sector (360 Km, 4x4). Tours include SUV, transport, bilingual guide, explanation of landscapes & archeology & boxed lunch.

2C Los Granaderos Estancia Heritage Tour, A Rebellious Patagonia: Evolution of Human Rights in Patagonia ArgentinaGobernador Gregores, AR, Chico River - RP 77, www.ealosgranaderos.com.ar, [email protected]. Full day 160 Km overland tour crossing the Steppe. Rare chance to get off the main roads & learn about how life has evolved in this sparse, rugged land. Optional side trip to Petrified Forest. Theme: Exploring the historic struggle f/human rights fought by workers on the s of Patagonian Argentina. Arrange through the , Municipal Museum or Tourism Office of Governor Gregores.

2E Alta MontañaEl Chaltén, AR, 104 Lionel Terray, (02962) 493018, ww.altamontpatagonia.com, [email protected] MONTAÑA was born as a result of enthusiastic commitment to mountaineering & skiing, a love f/nature, & a lifetime exploring Patagonia, the Andes & the endless diversity of spectacular landscapes

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in Argentina & Chile. This travel agency provide inbound services & destination management f/specialized agencies & independent travelers, w/focus on tailor-made trips to the most remote & best hidden places of the Andes, Argentina & Chile. Highly qualified personnel & agreements w/excellent providers are the base f/outstanding travel services in all their destinations & cities.


2A Cueva de las Manos Estancia ToursBajo Caracoles, AR, Cueva de las Manos Sector, (011 SAT) / (02963) 52374043 / 432319, www.cuevadelasmanos.net. 18 Km journey (4x4 vehicle or horseback), & hiking through Canyon (2½ Km) to Cueva de las Manos. Other tours: Charcamata Overhang Petroglyphs, (60 Km 4X4, Horses, Hiking), Laguna Honda (80 Km, 4X4, Hiking) Cave of the Condors (50 Km, 4X4, Horses, Hiking) & Paso Roballos - Los Antiguos Sector (360 Km, 4x4). Tours include SUV, transport, bilingual guide, explanation of landscapes & archeology & boxed lunch.

2A GuanaCondor ToursPerito Moreno, AR, Perito Moreno 1087, (02963) 432303, [email protected]. Guided excursions to the Cueva de las Manos (AR$250), departing from Perito Moreno. Visit to Estancia Cueva de las Manos, Canyon hike to access Site. A unique twist! Offices in Perito Moreno, (Mondays, Wednesdays, Saturdays:10h00 - 12h00 & 16h00 - 20h00; Sundays: 17h00 - 20h00).

2A Hugo CampañoliPerito Moreno, AR, Perito Moreno, AR, (02963) 432336. Perito Moreno based local guide who takes groups of 3+ to Cueva de las Manos on day trips.

2A La Cueva de las ManosBajo Caracoles, AR, Cañadón Rio Pinturas. Visit Tehuelche petroglyphs at the Cueva de las Manos (Cave of the Hands), UNESCO World Heritage Site, in the Pinturas River Canyon. Site contains an impressive collection of petroglyphs, painted between 1,300 & 9,500 years ago (AR$50; 09h00-19h00).

2A Zoyen TravelPerito Moreno, AR, Peron 1008, (02963) 432207, [email protected]. Good local travel agency w/trips to Cueva de las Manos in high season.

2C Los Granaderos Estancia Heritage Tour, A Rebellious Patagonia: Evolution of Human Rights in Patagonia ArgentinaGobernador Gregores, AR. Chico River - RP 77, www.ealosgranaderos.com.ar, [email protected]. Full day 160 Km heritage tour exploring the historic struggle f/human rights fought by workers on the Estancias of Patagonian Argentina. Rare chance to get off the main roads & learn about how life has evolved in this sparse, rugged land. Travel w/local guides to now-abandoned Estancias, providing you w/an “insider’s” view of the events of the Strike of 1921, which resulted in great tragedy, memorialized through this fascinating journey. Optional side trip to Petrified Forest. Arrange through the Estancia, Municipal Museum or Tourism Office of Governor Gregores.

2D Hotel de Campo Piedra ClavadaTres Lagos, AR, RN 288, (01115) 52599358, www.chacrapiedraclavada.com.ar, [email protected]. Along RN 288, 4 kilometers to the northeast of the Chalía River, crossing the bridge, you will come across a unique natural monument, a huge stone, which seems hammered in the ground at the foot of the cliff wall. The Piedra Clavada forms a curious backdrop f/the Historic “Wool Route” hotel which shares its name.

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2E La Quinta EstanciaEl Chaltén, AR, Entrance to El Chaltén - RP 23, (02962) 493012, www.Estancialaquinta.com.ar, [email protected]. In the Estancia’s second floor living area, you can sit & relax w/a good book from their historical library of1000+ Patagonia themed books or simply enjoy panoramic views. Check out the small exhibit of antiques & memorabilia dedicated to Yerba Mate in the breakfast nook of the hotel. Main House dining room offers local favorites including breads, pastas, jams, cakes, fine fruits & cheeses, & meats from the Estancia. Guided tour by owners, filled w/stories & history of the 100+ years their family has spent in this sector of the world. Fascinating tales of gauchos, explorers & adventurers.

2E El Relincho Estancia Visits & Horseback RidingEl Chaltén, AR, Av San Martín 505, (02962) 493007, www.elrelinchopatagonia.com.ar. In addition to horseback riding & hiking, visitors have the possibility to visit Estancia & take part in rural activities like herding sheep, confining them in the corrals, working w/horses, learning about the importance of dogs in farm work, sheep shearing, sharing mate w/tortas fritas & even a delicious Patagonian Asado al Palo. Activities led or demonstrated by members of the family. Stay the night, enjoying the sounds of nature & the silence of the countryside. An unforgettable experience.

2E Los Huemules Private Nature ReserveEl Chaltén, AR, State highway 23, 17 Km north of El Chaltén, (011 SAT) 41525300, http://www.loshuemules.com, [email protected]. The Private Reserve at Estancia Los Huemules (AR $ 50 entry) is located 17 Km beyond El Chaltén, just after the Electrico River. Stop by the visitor center to learn about the first explorations of this area, w/accounts of the early inhabitants & pioneers.


2C La Angostura Estancia, Bird WatchingGobernador Gregores, AR, RP 29, Km 91.5, (02962) 491501, www.Estanciariocapitan.com.ar.Authentic & rustic Patagonian Estancia located in the wide valley of the Chico River, surrounded by tulip groves. A “must-do” f/birdwatchers, w/habitat f/rarely sighted birds, including the austral rail (rallus antarcticus) & the hooded grebe (podiceps gallardoi), among others. You can observe birds in sites only meters from the main house!

2E Los Huemules Private Nature ReserveEl Chaltén, AR, State highway 23, 17 Km north of El Chaltén, (011 SAT) 41525300, http://www.loshuemules.com, [email protected]. The Private Reserve at Estancia Los Huemules (AR $ 50 entry) is located 17 Km beyond El Chaltén, just after the Electrico River. 5,500 hectares w/diverse natural environments; mountains, glaciers, beech & ñire forests, rivers, lakes, lagoons & wetlands. 25 Km of marked trails provide a quiet alternative to the neighboring National Park. Stop by the Visitor Center to learn about native fauna, like the huemul (hippocamelus bisulcus), flora, topography & climate of the region.

THINGS TO DO – HORSEBACK

2A Cueva de las Manos Estancia ToursBajo Caracoles, AR, Cueva de las Manos Sector, (011 SAT) / (02963) 52374043 / 432319, www.cuevadelasmanos.net, [email protected]. Cueva de las Manos Tour includes 18 Km horseback trip & hiking through the Canyon (2½ Km). Tours to the Charcamata Overhang Petroglyphs (60 Km, 4X4, Horses, Hiking), the Cave of the Condors (50Km , 4X4, Horses, Hiking) Tours include SUV, transport, bilingual guide, explanation of landscapes & archeology & boxed lunch.

2E El Relincho Estancia Visits & Horseback Riding

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El Chaltén, AR, Av San Martín 505, (02962) 493007, www.elrelinchopatagonia.com.ar. Estancia visit w/horseback riding & possibility to take part in rural activities like herding sheep, confining them in the corrals, working w/horses, learning about the importance of dogs in farm work, sheep shearing, sharing mate w/tortas fritas & even a delicious Patagonian Asado.


2C Estancia Laguna Verde Fly-fishingGobernador Gregores, AR, Located 115 Km from Gobernador Gregores. Southwest on RP 29, you’ll take an Estancia road to the right, a few Km after crossing over RN, a few Km before reaching Cardiel Lake. Lodge can provide precise coordinates & directions. (02954) 454216, www.Estancialagunaverde.com, [email protected] renowned Strobel Lake, aka Jurassic Lake, is a 65 Km² lake w/crystal clear waters of extraordinary biological characteristics & conditions that allow amazing growth of trout. Possibly the best wild rainbow trout fishery in the world. Estancia Laguna Verde, located on the south coast of this incredible lake, offers fishermen the chance to experience wild Patagonia at its best, surrounded by beautiful untouched landscapes & unparalleled flora & fauna. You’ll have the opportunity to battle against huge, strong fish & the comfort of an exclusive lodge, unique in the Strobel Sector.

2E Chaltén FishingEl Chaltén, AR, Av Antonio Rojo 88, (02962), www.chaltenfishing.com.ar. In the word of guides at Chaltén Fishing, “We love nature & the surroundings of El Chaltén, our adopted home. To us, fishing is an activity that permits relaxing & immersing yourself in the beauty of natural places like Patagonian Argentina”. These specialized fly-fishing guides, committed to caring f/the amazing natural environment in which they live & work, offer ½ day trips to Laguna/Lago del Desierto or full-day excursions that include a few hours at Larga Lagoon. Equipment is provided; call f/current rates & information on fishing licenses.

THINGS TO DO – SPA & RELAXATION

2E KouSeki, Mountain SpaEl Chaltén, AR, Cerro Solo 136, 2-story wooden house, corner w/St. N°10. www.kou-seki.com.ar, [email protected] or [email protected]. The trails surrounding El Chaltén invite your entire being to absorb the immensity of the mountains & glaciers. KouSeki Mountain Spa invites you to relax after the trails, adding another dimension to your experience in Patagonia. They provide the space f/you to connect w/what your body has absorbed from the landscape & channel that energy, enhancing your experience. They offer a variety of therapeutic & relaxing massages, complemented by Thai herbal sauna & steaming compresses.

2E Los Cerros SpaEl Chaltén, AR, San Martín 260, (02962), 493182, www.loscerrosdelchalten.com, [email protected] is a small spa in the Hotel Los Cerros, w/a sauna & whirlpool facilities, as well as massage services (very welcome after a long day of walking!)


2E Serac ExpeditionsEl Chaltén, AR, 175 San Martín Ave, (02962) 493371, www.serac.com.ar, [email protected]. Serac Expeditions offers adventure programs in mountain environments. Ten years+ experience & focused, values-based approach, based on Commitment, Quality Services & Safety. If your favorite activity is mountain biking, they’re the company to call.

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CHAPTER 4

TRAVERSE THE ANDES TO THE ICE FIELDS


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GUIDE TO AN UNDISCOVERED PATAGONIALIST OF ARTICLESCHAPTER 4:: STAGE 3 - Traverse the Andes to the Ice Fields.

Evelyn Pfeiffer

173 Traverse the Andes to the Ice Fields.

178 Trekking the shores of Laguna/Lago del Desierto in route to Chile.

180 Cruise O’Higgins/San Martin Lake to the O’Higgins Glacier.

181 Raise your glass and celebrate reaching the heart of Patagonia!

184 Hike to the Overlook of Cerro Santiago.

185 Day Hike to the Mosco River Glacier.

187 Answers to your questions about the science of ICE.

191 Taste traditions that stand the test of time.

192 Prepare Patagonian-style tortas fritas and Chilean pebre on your own.

194 Join the elite few who have biked the Carretera Austral of Chile.

196 Inform yourself about the Bird Lifezones in the Circuit.

198 Calling the curious! It’s time to break out those binoculars.

200 Rise to the challenge with these bird watching basics.

202 Enter Father Antonio Ronchi’s world where anything is possible and everyone pitches in.

204 Ride along with Father Ronchi.

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CHAPTER 4: Stage 3 - Traverse the Andes to the Ice Fields.

Traverse the Andes to the Ice Fields.Overview of Stage 3 of the Undiscovered Patagonia Circuit.

The third Stage of the Undiscovered Patagonia Circuit (123.5 Km) is the shortest of the four Stages; however, it offer a variety of adventures. There

are no roads through this Stage of the Undiscovered Patagonia Circuit. If you are using a rental or private vehicle, make advance plans to send it around

to Villa O’Higgins using one of the professional drivers or logistics services mentioned in the Service Directory of www.UndiscoveredPatagonia.com.

During the three Sections of this Stage you will complete a back country border crossing that offers a combination of biking, hiking, boat rides, 4x4s and horses; plus, a visit to glaciers originating in the Southern Patagonian Ice Fields. It’s a one-of-a-kind experience! While roads haven’t reached

this Stage of the Undiscovered Patagonia Circuit, hundreds of travelers cross the Andes between El Chaltén and Candelario Mansilla each year. They tell us it is one of the most unique and incredible travel adventures ever!

This article describes the route and each of

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the three Sections of this Stage. The highlight of this Stage is the unique experience of crossing the border between Argentina and Chile, in the back country sectors of Laguna/Lago (Lagoon/Lake) del Desierto in Argentina and Candelario Mansilla, in Chile.

The crossing can easily be made in two days and will involve an agenda based on pure nature. You’ll be assisted by a short bus transfer, one or two ferries, incredible trekking or horseback riding, and, if the stars align, even a ride in the back of an old pick-up truck! All while immersed amongst the native forests of the Andes, with their hanging glaciers sending pristine streams down into turquoise lagoons that feed into the enormous bi-national lake, O’Higgins-San Martin. This profound body of water has been measured with depths reaching 836 meters, making it the deepest in the Americas and fifth deepest in the world.

Currently, there is not an option for crossing from El Chaltén, AR, to Villa O’Higgins, CH, with vehicles. If you are in a private vehicle and wish to complete Stage 3 of the Circuit, you will need to arrange a driver to bring your vehicle from El Chaltén to Villa O’Higgins. It is also important to plan this Stage of the circuit in accordance with the Ferry schedules of the L/M Quetru which will provide your passage across O’Higgins - San Martin Lake. When operating, there is a small ferry that runs the length of Laguna/Lago del Desierto. When not, a beautiful trail crosses the 17 Km span, rewarding

adventurers with views of the lake shore and the El Huemul Glacier. Check about the ferry status in El Chaltén so you can prepare.

You will cross O’Higgins/San Martin Lake via the L/M. Quetru, a modern, fully-equipped boat, with seating for 70 passengers. The boat has a predefined schedule for the trip from Candelario Mansilla to Villa O’Higgins, which it maintains without fail, provided the weather conditions permit. Refer to the Service Directory for their website, where, you can obtain the latest schedule and reserve your passage.

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Section 3A: El Chaltén - Northern Shore of Laguna/Lago del Desierto (44.6 Km).

Section 3A begins with a farewell to El Chaltén, as you take gravel roads 34 Km north to the south shore docks for Laguna/Lago del Desierto. You can contract a transfer service in El Chaltén. If you are biking the route, plan this ride as a day trip and camp along the shore, beginning your crossing the following day. The final 10.4 Km of Section 3A are via ferry or trail. The trail follows the shores of the western side of the lake and is suitable for hiking or mountain bikes. Distance bikers may have trouble riding this section with all their gear on bikes. Prepare to remove pedals and push in some sections.

When operating, the ferry, El Huemul, crosses Laguna/Lake del Desierto, providing transport via a 45 minute ride and will porter bikes. There is a fee for the crossing. Check for details and status of the boat in

the Tourism Information Office in El Chaltén. If the ferry is operating and you want to take this option, make your reservations in advance. You will find plenty of great options for back-country camping, or press on to the next Section of this Stage.

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Section 3B: Northern Shore of Laguna/Lago del Desierto - Candelario Mansilla (20.5 Km).

Section 3B begins with border crossing transactions in the post of the Gendarme in Argentina. After receiving the green light for crossing into Chile, you’ll hike along a single-track trail that leads uphill for 5 Km, winding through dense forest, until the path opens up into a single lane, 4x4 track. On days that the L/M. Quetru is running, there is a 4x4 truck that shuttles visitors the remaining 16 Km to Candelario Mansilla, for a small fee.

Bikers, and those willing to make the hike, will follow the gravel road directly north. The hike is mainly downhill leading towards O’Higgins Lake, ending at the Chilean border station, Paso Hito IV-0-B (Dos Lagunas), in Candelario Mansilla. Here, you’ll conduct the Chilean border transactions and be accepted into Chile. Most visitors end their day 3 Km down the road, at the rural hostel and campground of the Candelario Mansilla Estancia.

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Section 3C: Boat travel, Candelario Mansilla - Villa O’Higgins (58.4 Km).

Section 3C crosses O’Higgins/San Martin Lake from Candelario Mansilla to Puerto Bahamondes and Villa O’Higgins. The L/M. Quetru has trips several days each week during the season, November through March. You can see the precise dates and make reservations on-line. The L/M. Quetru makes two stops at the docks of Candelario

Mansilla; the first around 11h30, and the second, around 16h00. Travelers coming from Argentina can board during either stop and travel to Puerto Bahía Bahamondes, 7 Km south of Villa O’Higgins. The morning trip (CH$65.000), accompanies the day-trip to the O’Higgins Glacier. You can also opt to can spend the day in Candelario Mansilla and take the afternoon trip directly to Puerto Bahía Bahamondes. (CH$40.000).

The boat takes bikes for no extra fee! There are several small transport vehicles that offer rides to town (7 Km) for around CH$2.000. Reservations are advised.

Villa O’Higgins is a tiny frontier town with a population hovering around 500. It is the end of the road for the Carretera Austral and an

authentic Chilean town with an economy based on ranching and forestry. Tourism is a recent phenomenon, which began to develop in 1999, with the completion of the Carretera Austral. There are no ATMs and few, if any, places to exchange money. You should already have Chilean pesos on-hand, in sufficient quantities to last until you reach the end of the Circuit in Cochrane. There are a growing number of options for lodging and eating-out.

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Trekking the shores of Laguna/Lago del Desierto in route to Chile.

This hike along the shores of Laguna/Lago (Lagoon/Lake) del Desierto with views of the Huemul Glacier begins the journey back from

Argentina to Chile, in much the same fashion as the early explorers. The route is also a great day hike for visitors to El Chaltén; especially on

rainy days, as most of the trail is sheltered by dense forest cover.

• Activity Type: Through-hike crossing the border from Argentina to Chile or day hike from El Chaltén.

• Sector: Laguna/Lago del Desierto• Starting Point: El Chaltén• Ending Point: Candelario Mansilla

or El Chaltén• Considerations: This hike crosses

the 17 Km span of Laguna/Lago del Desierto, offering a more active and economical alternative for crossing Laguna/Lago del Desierto. However, when operating, visitors have the alternative to pay and travel via the Argentine ferry, El Huemul. Take a transfer service from El Chaltén to the southern tip of Laguna/Lago del Desierto, unless you are REALLY hard core about hiking (34 Km). For day hikers, arrange a return transfer as well. The trail is hard to maneuver with a bike loaded with gear. Distance bikers should remove pedals and push in some sections. We suggest carrying your gear in a backpack, hiring a porter service or, when in operation, you can send your bike along ahead on the ferry, El Huemul, for a fee.

• Distance: 34 Km if you are crossing all the way to Candelario Mansilla. For day-hikers, 21 Km, out and back, with the Argentine border post as the turn-

around point.• Duration: 10 - 14 hours.• Seasonality: November to March• Difficulty: Easy; however, plan for

a long day and coordinate your plans with the hours and availability of transfers, daylight, and boats.

The Route - Part 1: Approximately 2 kilometers before the Laguna/Lago del Desierto dock, you’ll encounter a small

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wooden footbridge, which serves as the trail head for this hike. The single-track trail begins by wrapping its way along the lake shore, giving a good glimpse of what is to come for the day. At the beginning of the trail there are several small stream crossings before climbing a ridge line across what was once a glacial moraine. Hikers will find metal arrows marking the trail at points of possible confusion.

Around 6.5 – 7 Km in, after a long climb, the trail arrives at a rocky vista with a breathtaking view of Mt.. Fitz Roy and Laguna/Lago del Desierto. This stop serves as a good place for an early lunch break. Next, the trail gradually descends rolling hills returning to the shores of the Lagoon. After hiking on the rocky shoreline for a few hundred meters, the trail opens up, passing through a small field to the Argentine border crossing station. Day hikers can head back along the same trail or opt to return by the ferry, when operating, for a fee. For those crossing to Chile, you will need to process your paperwork here and be able to access your personal identification, passports, visas, and other relevant paperwork.

The Route - Part 2: Continuing north to Candelario Mansilla, the trail heads uphill for 5 Km, where you’ll actually leave

Argentina and unofficially, enter Chile. The welcome signs marking your departure/entry are a great spot for photos! The trail widens into a road and most hikers decide to hitch a ride across the 17 Km which remain before the Chilean Guard station for the fee of around CH$5.000, per person.

This shuttle (pick-up truck) only runs on days that the L/M. Quetru crosses O’Higgins/San Martin Lake. Check schedules on-line to arrange your plans. At the Argentine guard station, ask one of the guards to radio the shuttle so you can coordinate your timing with their routine. Bikers, save your money; the single lane road is easy going as it’s all downhill to the guard station. Riding on the small airstrip is not allowed; instead, take the path just to the right of the airstrip.

Pack clothing for warmth, rain, and wind, and extra, in case of bad weather, which often comes in quickly and unexpectedly. Hike in shoes that are well broken in and can handle multiple terrains. Be sure to pack extra water and food. Care for the environment and show respect for the wildlife and flora.

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Cruise O’Higgins/San Martin Lake to the O’Higgins Glacier.

For the lucky few who cross borders between Laguna/Lago del Desierto and Candelario Mansilla and all who visit the town of Villa O’Higgins, the cruise aboard

the L/M Quetru to Glacier O’Higgins is a full day excursion, not to be missed!

• Activity Type: Boat tour & Glacier• Sector: O’Higgins/San Martin Lake• Starting Point: Candelario Mansilla

or Bahía Bahamondes Docks • Ending Point: Bahía Bahamondes

Docks • Considerations: Strong winds

or storms mandate cancellations of this passage. If you REALLY want to experience the Glacier, plan a two-day grace period in your itinerary, to accommodate for this the possibility.

• Distance: 91 Km, round trip from/to Bahía Bahamondes dock.

• Duration: 10 hours (8 hours from Candelario Mansilla)

• Seasonality: November - March• Difficulty: If you are prone to sea-

sickness, bring medication. The Circuit: Glacier O’Higgins forms a frontal wall for the Southern Patagonia Ice Field, the third biggest extension of continental ice, after Antarctica and Greenland. It is the fourth largest in Patagonia, with wall widths over 3 Km, and heights greater than 80 meters. This excursion provides the unique opportunity to approach the frontal wall of Glacier O’Higgins in the bay where it descends the Southern Ice Fields, joining the lake. You’ll travel aboard the L/M. Quetru, a modern well-equipped vessel, which accommodates up to 70 persons and is capable of sailing in a variety of weather conditions.

The L/M. Quetru leaves from the Bahía Bahamondes dock, 7 Km south of Villa O’Higgins, at 08h30, on scheduled tour days. The round trip from Bahía Bahamondes to Glacier O’Higgins and back, is approximately CH$80.000. There are discounts for children; ages 0-6 are free, and ages 6-12

receive a discount of 40%. Group rates are also available, depending on group size. It’s best to make advance reservations on-line, or in the offices of Hielo Sur.. From there, you can also access a shuttle to the docks for approximately CH$2.000.

Around 11h30, the boat stops briefly, at Candelario Mansilla, to accommodate passengers crossing from/to Argentina. From there, you’ll navigate towards the bay of the Glacier, where, you will have the opportunity to approach the front wall and plenty of time to indulge your photographic fantasies. After learning more about the glacier, filling the memory of your camera, having lunch, and sharing a whiskey on glacial rocks, the boat returns, making a second brief stop at Candelario Mansilla, before crossing to the Bahía Bahamondes docks.

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Raise your glass and celebrate reaching the heart of Patagonia!

Welcome to Villa O'Higgins, the heart of Patagonia, the end of the Carretera Austral, and the remote gateway to the Southern Ice Fields. It is a land of

pioneers, explorers, adventurers and sailors, where nature is at its most pristine.

So...Just how remote is it? Villa O'Higgins has around 400 inhabitants and is the only urban area within 110 Km. The nearest towns in Chile are Caleta Tortel (150 Km) and Cochrane (230 Km), and access to either requires taking the ferry across the Mitchell Fiord. The closest town is actually on the Argentine side, El Chaltén (110 Km), but, as you know firsthand, to get there you must walk A LONG WAY! So, here, in the heart of Patagonia, you can truly disconnect a while; tranquility rules.

It is probable there were indigenous groups living in this area for thousands of years; however, more recent settlements emerged between 1914 and 1918, when a mixture of Chilean and European families began to settle in the sectors surrounding Rio Mayer and Lago O’Higgins. For more than fifty years, the area remained extremely rustic and remote; inhabited by only a few dozen families. Goods and services flowed primarily through Argentina, where, the topography made travel more feasible.

In 1965, to support efforts towards the formal creation of the town, residents constructed a runway to establish more regular access within Chile. Work was completed during the winter of 1966 and later that year, on September 20, various authorities from both the Aysén and Magallanes Regions of Chile, landed on the new airstrip, to recognize their efforts. The town was formally established in 1980, at which time it had already built a primary school and a health post. 1983 was another big year for Villa O’Higgins. Electricity, a radio station, a church, and a gym arrived; all catalyzed by Father Antonio Ronchi. Perhaps the biggest change came, with the opening of the southernmost section of the

Carretera Austral, in 1999, which allowed overland access through Chile.

As opposed to El Chaltén, which was created expressly for tourism; ranching and forestry are the productive activities supporting the economy of Villa O'Higgins. Because of this, daily life for the residents of Villa O'Higgins is still closely tied with that of their ancestors, who settled the area. Many pioneer traditions remain intact, including the daily dependence on horses, woodworking, using native woods and rustic tools, knitting, smoking meats, etc.

Being a remote community limits access to modern luxuries, but if you are prepared for that, you'll find Villa O'Higgins full of simple comforts, including excellent options for lodging, cellular service and Internet, a rural first-aid post, grocery and hardware stores, great restaurants, travel companies and

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guiding services.

In fact, you can even find some creative luxuries, like a wood-burning stove assisted sauna, at the El Mosco hostel and the wood-burning hot tubs at the Robinson Crusoe Lodge. The important thing to consider is that in Villa O'Higgins there are no banks or ATMs, and no one takes credit cards - so bring cash. The nearest bank is in the town of Cochrane, and again, only caters to national ATM networks and credit card companies.

Many visitors ask, so we offer a brief bit of context to help you understand a Patagonian reality. The seemingly high prices of goods in town are not the result of greed. High prices for basic goods are a reality of life for both residents and visitors in Villa O’Higgins and other points in this sector of Patagonia. Transporting goods from far away cities, like Santiago or Puerto Montt, to such a remote place, literally situated at the end of the road, is a costly proposition, producing higher costs for all. That’s one big reason that life seems much simpler here. We live with the basics, we fix things when they break, and we reuse everything that we can. We welcome you to the heart of Patagonia and raise a toast to your visit!

Here are some places to visit and things to do in town:

O'Higgins Glacier Tour: Full day boat excursion aboard the L/M. Quetru to the O'Higgins Glacier, fourth largest in Patagonia, with a wall extending 3+ Km and heights in excess of 80 M..

Father Ronchi Museum: This museum located in the church built by Father Antonio Ronchi, contains exhibits demonstrating the history of the area, the life and works of Padre Ronchi, and antiques from the pioneers of the town.

Mosco Glacier Trail: Full day trek winding through native forests above town and the Mosco River Valley, to a fantastic overlook of the Mosco Glacier.

Trail to Cerro Santiago: Easy, one hour hike

through native forests of Villa O'Higgins to an overlook above town with an impressive view of surrounding valleys, lakes, and rivers.

Road trip to Mayer River & Lake Christie Sector: This valley is still one of the most remote in Patagonia, maintaining an atmosphere of pioneers and frontiers.

Bird watching: Just outside of town you’ll find wonderful settings for wildlife and bird watching.

Recreational Fishing: The many rivers, streams, and lakes of this sector are brimming with an abundance of fish. Find a local guide and head to the water!

Cycling Routes: You can rent bikes in town and enjoy several short circuits that will create your own experiences and memories of cycling on the Carretera Austral.

El Tigre Glacier Hiking: 24 Km north of town, you can partake in a 7 Km guided hike to the El Tigre Glacier which affords spectacular views of both the Glacier, and the Cisne Lake Valley.

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Hike to the Overlook of Cerro Santiago.

This short and easy hike takes about an hour, and is suitable for everyone. From the height of the overlook, you can enjoy a wonderful 360° panoramic view

of Villa O’Higgins and the surrounding valleys, mountains, lakes and rivers.

• Activity Type: Hiking• Sector: Cerro Santiago, Villa

O’Higgins• Starting Point: Municipal Park,• Ending Point: Municipal Park• Distance: 1 Km• Duration: 1 hour• Seasonality: October to April• Difficulty: Easy The Route: This short trek will provide you with a 360° panoramic view of the town of Villa O’Higgins, the Mayer River valley, O’Higgins, Ciervo and Cisnes Lakes (from left to right), and the end of Carretera Austral. Begin from the trail head at the municipal park. The route is very well developed and marked, a great start to any day!

Rodrigo Merino

Rodrigo Merino

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Day Hike to the Mosco River Glacier.

This great 1 or 2 day trekking route climbs Cerro Santiago on trails which follow the banks of the Mosco River, passing through lush native forest and a series of lookout points, to the foot of the Mosco Glacier.

This is a great hike to do on your own or with one of the local guides in Villa O’Higgins, who can teach you about local flora and fauna you will observe along the trail. This hike provides a range of physical and technical challenges; the first sections are suitable for everyone, including families. The biggest challenge you’ll find in these first sections is forcing yourself to turn back as the going gets a bit more technical; the beauty of the area is sure to tempt you to keep going. If you do, please make safety a priority as you will be required to cross streams and slippery areas of moraine in later sections of the hike.

• Activity Type: Hiking• Sector: Villa O’Higgins• Starting Point: The main entrance

point is from the CONAF guard station just outside of town. The trail head can also be accessed outside of town to the north along the Carretera Austral, marked by a small roadside sign.

• Ending Point: Cerro Santiago,• Considerations: Along the route

there are some shelters, that can be used for camping or to get out of bad weather. If you plan to overnight hike, check in at the CONAF guard shelter, to make sure the shelters are not already reserved.

• Distance: 20.8 Km, out and back• Duration: 5-6 hours• Seasonality: October to March• Difficulty: Families are

recommended to turn back to Villa O’Higgins when the slope becomes steep, before the river crossings.

The Route: The hike begins at the Cerro Santiago trail head in the town’s center and heads east. Once you reach the CONAF Guard Post, look for the trail head markers. This trail is well marked, using various mechanisms, including horizontal red and yellow bars painted on trees, rock cairns, and wooden pegs in the ground. The trail ascends through a series of switchbacks for roughly 3 Km, merging with the alternative entrance coming from the Carretera Austral. You’ll pass burned tree trunks from

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historic forest fires before reaching an overlook offering impressive views of the Mosco and Mayer River Valleys.

The trail continues to climb, entering an extremely dense area of lenga, (nothofagus pumilio), and coigüe, or beech, (nothofagus dombeyi), forest. In this section it’s important to keep alert for trail markers every ten to twenty meters to confirm the trail. When the trail levels off, you will begin to encounter several river and stream crossings, which are assisted by rustic bridges, made by CONAF from trees. When they are wet, they can be extremely slick so use caution, especially with children.

The path soon descends to the edge of the Mosco River. Although there is a wooden walkway over the river, DO NOT TAKE THIS, if wishing to see the Mosco Glacier. Instead, continue on the trail that is clearly marked with horizontal red and yellow bars painted on trees, rock cairns, and wooden pegs in the ground, winding to the Claro River. Here, a marked section indicates a short, but technical, river crossing. Use judgment in this section; if the water is high and powerful, turn around and head back to Villa O’Higgins. NEVER CROSS ALONE. If you do not have previous experience with

river crossings, we suggest hiring a guide in town who can assist and teach you the techniques.

Once across the river, the trial begins to climb steeply over large rocks and boulders. This section may require crawling and scrambling, as you maneuver up the steep slope. Use extreme caution when doing this, as the rock can be loose. A technique to use is to spread out your group, allowing a safe distance between members, in case a rock falls. At the top of this climb, you need to cross the Mosco River. As before, use good judgment and technique.

The next section leads to the 25 m, Mosco River waterfall. Look for signage, which will be posted on the north side of the cliff from which this waterfall descends. This indicates your route for the final climb. Again, you’ll employ a hands and knees scramble to safely maneuver the slope. It’s worth the work. At the summit of this hike, you’ll be rewarded with views of the Fria Lagoon, fed by glacial melt coming off the Mosco Glacier and draining into the headwaters of the Mosco River. Some surrounding peaks include Cerro Mirador (1,788 m), Cerro Catalina (1,894 m), and Cerro White Huemul (2,230 m), which is the highest peak in the Mosco Valley. Return to town along the same path, following the markings, which can be found on both sides of trees and rock cairns.

NOTES

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Answers to your questions about the science of ICE.

Without a doubt, one of the most amazing aspects of the Undiscovered Patagonia Circuit is its abundance of glaciers. In this article, we share some answers to questions frequently received by visitors to the area.

Q. What is a glacier?

A. A glacier is a thick mass of ice that forms on the earth's surface from the accumulation, compaction and re crystallization of snow.

Q. How are glaciers formed?

A. Gradually, year after year, snow is transformed into ice. New layers of snow fall on top of existing layers of snow and ice; creating pressure, and a phenomenon known as firnification. This process transforms the snow into firn, which is much more dense and granular. As the firn is further compressed by additional layers of fresh snow, it becomes ice. Over the years, the ice becomes thicker and heavier, forming a field of ice. The forces of gravity take over and slowly, the ice field naturally begins to move, flowing down into the valleys and lower slopes of the mountains, and forming the tongues of the glaciers. In flatter areas,

or areas with little surface melting, like Greenland and Antarctica, the formation of glacial tongues can take hundreds, or even thousands, of years.

Q. Why do glaciers move?

A. The enormous pressure placed on the ice crystals, as more and more layers amass, produces a plastic-like texture, and a composition which begins to move slowly, under the force of gravity. To be a bit more precise, the ice moves through two different processes:

• Internal flow takes place when the structure of the ice crystals changes and heavier ice begins to place pressure on lighter ice. In some parts of the ice field, internal flow causes the ice surface to become more fragile, and produce cracks that can be very dangerous for hikers. Inside, the behavior is more plastic and the ice crystals slide over


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each other.• Basal slip movement results when the

entire mass of ice turns over. When the base of the glacier takes on a liquid water film, this reduces the internal friction that naturally facilitates the movement of ice over the bedrock, causing basal slip. This happens frequently in temperate glaciers.

Q. Are there many glaciers in the world? Where are they?

A. Glaciers form in regions where the annual precipitation exceeds the amount of snow that melts and evaporates, in summer. This phenomenon is most often associated with areas near the North and South Poles, but glaciers can also be found in many mountainous areas, including mountains of Africa and South America. Today, only 10% of the Earth is covered with glaciers, but during the last ice age, that percentage rose to 30%. Currently, 91% of the total volume of glaciers, and 84% of the total area of glaciers, are within the Ice Fields of Antarctica.

The Antarctic Ice Sheet is huge! It covers almost 14 million Km² and contains 30 million Km³ of ice. The Antarctic Ice sheet represents almost 61% of all the fresh

water reserves in the world! The next highest concentration is the Greenland Ice Sheet, which extends from the latitudes of 60° to 80°, covering approximately 1.7 million square Km. This ice sheet represents approximately 8% of the world's total glacier volume, and 14% of the glacier area.

In Patagonia, there was once a third Ice Sheet, extending from Puerto Montt through all of southern Chile, into Argentina. This ice formation reached its largest mass between 17,500 and 18,000 years ago, covering 480,000 Km² of land, with a mass of more than 500,000 Km³ Today, only about 4% of that mass remains; contained within the Northern and Southern Ice Fields that you can visit within the Undiscovered Patagonia Circuit. These Ice Fields comprise the third largest extension of continental ice in the world. The Northern Patagonia Ice Field consists of approximately 4,200 Km2 of ice, with 28 outlet glaciers; all within the boundaries of the San Rafael Lagoon National Park, in Chile. The Southern Patagonia Ice Field consists of 16,800 Km2 of ice, with 48 outlet glaciers entering the Patagonian channels of the Pacific Ocean, and lakes and rivers extending to the Atlantic. This natural wonder is protected through the Chilean National Parks of Bernardo O'Higgins and Torres del Paine, and Los Glaciares National Park, in Argentina.

Q. Why is glacier ice blue?

A. Despite the common belief, the blue color of glacier ice is not a result of age; at least not directly. The various shades of blue you can see in a glacier originate from the high compression of ice under the weight of snow, which prevents the formation of air bubbles. Over time, this pressure builds and more weight is added. The dense, heavy ice absorbs all of the colors of the visible light spectrum, including yellows and reds; transmitting only the blue. Of course, you cannot always appreciate this blue because, often, the densest, bluest ice, is hidden under a layer of snow, airier, white-colored firn, or the dirt and debris of the moraine.

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the glaciers?

A. In general, the size and melt rate of glaciers depends on the climate of the region in which they are situated. Part of glacier mass loss is due to the natural dynamics of the ice, in relation with this climate.

However, in climates with prolonged warming trends, ice melt has intensified. In recent decades, there have been increases in average temperatures and trends, as well as differences in rainfall patterns, produced in part by climate change. These changes have had a strong impact on the glaciers. Scientific studies indicate that almost all glaciers in the Southern Patagonia Ice Field are receding. For example, Glacier O'Higgins, the fourth largest in Patagonia, has experienced dramatic losses of ice mass in recent times. The front of this glacier remained in a stable position until the early twentieth century, when it began to decline at an increasingly rapid rate. By 1995, the front wall has receded approximately 14.6 Km; 11.5 Km of which, were lost between 1945 and 1980 (Casassa et al., 1997).

Q. Are all glaciers the same?

A. Each and every glacier is unique, but there are similarities that allow them to be categorized; normally, according to their size and relation to the topography. Here are some typical classifications:

• Large Ice Sheets or Caps: Large masses of ice that completely cover the terrain on which they stand, except, at times, the very edges of the land mass. There are two large Ice Sheets; one in Greenland and the other in Antarctica.

• Small Icecaps: Also cover large areas, but less than 50,000 km2 in size. The best known are those of Iceland and Svalbard.

• Ice Fields: Unlike the ice sheets or caps, ice-fields have a surface that is dome-shaped. Their flow is controlled by the topography of the land they cover. Examples include the Northern and Southern Patagonian Ice Fields, and parts of the Canadian Rocky Mountains.

• Valley Glaciers: Here, the ice does not completely cover the topography; rather, it is channeled through it. Valley Glaciers are found in mountainous areas, occupying the bottoms of some of the valleys, and discharging melts and freshwater releases to warmer areas.

• Cirque Glaciers: Small masses of ice that are located in the headwaters of mountain valleys and occupy depressions called cirques.

• Alpine Glaciers: The combination of the presence of Valley and Cirque glaciers forms another larger category, known as alpine glaciers.

Q. What are the effects produced by glaciers?

A. Glaciers have an enormous impact on the world in which we live; both locally, in the areas where they are situated, and globally. Worldwide, glaciers store almost 33 million Km³ of fresh water. This giant “ice cube”, helps regulate world sea levels. Imagine if all of that ice melted overnight. Water would flood down, through rivers and lakes, and the oceans of the world would rise dramatically!!! In fact, much of the current land mass would disappear under the rising tides.


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In ice ages, more of the annual rainfall is held as ice, and the glaciers grow. Conversely, in periods with warmer climate trends, the ice sheets melt, raising the sea level worldwide, This is called eustatic change. Think of the world's glaciers like systems, with inputs and outputs, that interact with other natural systems, such as atmosphere, oceans, rivers, topography, and landscape.

At a local level, glaciers also influence other natural systems. In fact, you will probably experience one of these interactions during your time in Patagonia. Probably, when you are close to the Ice fields, you will notice that weather behaves "differently" than in the rest of Patagonia, or at your home. You will notice localized pressure changes that produce erratic rain and wind patterns. These weather patterns are being influenced by the outputs of the glacier systems nearby.

Also, glaciers are important geomorphic agents; which leave a giant footprint on their local environment. As the ice moves slowly over the terrain, behaving as a plastic material, it carves U-shaped valleys, bowl-shaped cirques, pyramidal horns, and jagged ridge lines. It grinds up and erodes the rock below, transporting and abandoning it in the form of sediment. As you travel through areas where the glaciers have disappeared, look you can often notice their footprints from the configuration of the land and the presence of erratic boulders and large rocks, left behind by ancient ice.

Still have questions? Talk to the guides and rangers you meet during your trip and look for these resources:

• Benn, Douglas I. and Evands, David J.A. 1998. Glaciers and glaciation. Arnold. Page 66-90

• Knight, Peter G. 1999. Glaciers. Stanley Thornes Ltd.

• Formation and Characteristics of glacier ice. Encyclopedia Britannica. Academic Edition. Revised. August 10, 2011.

• Glacier hydrology. Encyclopedia Britannica. Academic Edition. Revised. August 2, 2011.

• Derruau, Max. "The system of glacial erosion." In Geomorphology. Section 3, Chapter 2. Barcelona: Ariel, 2nd Ed., 1991.

• Hambrey, Michael, Alean, Jürg. Glaciers. Cambridge University Press, 2004. ISBN 0-521-82808-2

• Mattern, Joanne. Antarctica: The world's largest glacier. The Rosen Publishing Group, 2004. ISBN 0-8239-6874-X

• Strahler, Arthur N. (1992, reprinted 1997) Physical Geology, chap. 18: Glaciers and glaciations of the Pleistocene, Barcelona: Ed ISBN 84-282-0770-4 Omega

• Tarbuck, E., 1999, Earth Sciences: An Introduction to Physical Geology, Madrid, Prentice Hall.

And for younger readers:

• Icebergs, Ice Caps, and Glaciers. Allan Fowler. 1997.

• Learning about the Earth: Glaciers. Colleen Sexton. 2008.

• Exploring Glaciers. Melody S. Mis. 2009.• Glaciers. Larry Dane Brimner. 2000.• Icebergs and Glaciers. Seymour Simon.

1999.• Glaciers. Isaac Nadeau. 2006.• Icebergs. Stuart A. Kallen. 2003.


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Taste traditions that stand the test of time.

Tortas fritas are a special homemade bread, which you fry, like a doughnut. In Patagonia, since the days of the pioneers, Tortas Fritas have commonly been

served when guests arrive for yerba mate. They go hand in hand with a popular relish called Chilean Pebre, and are always present at Patagonian Asados.

Pioneers in Patagonia needed easily made foods that could be transported in any situation; from saddlebags to snow storms, food had to be basic, durable, and filling. One of the foods that met the criteria is still indispensable today; the sopaipilla, or torta frita. Like the empanada, local versions of these simple, fried breads, are served in cultures throughout the world. Tortas fritas are great in a pinch, like when neighbors stop by unannounced to share a yerba mate! In reality, they’re a welcome addition to any occasion. And of course, they go hand in hand with a Patagonian Asado al Palo, lamb or beef barbecued over an open fire!

In Chile, simple fried breads are known to have been eaten since, at least, 1726. In the central regions, of the country, they are called sopaipillas, and usually include pumpkin as one of their ingredients. In Patagonia, we make a simpler version, without pumpkin, and call them Tortas Fritas. Our version is more similar to those made in Uruguay and Argentina, and probably migrated into Chilean Patagonia along with settlers coming to work on the large Estancias. In those days, they were fried in sheep fat, giving them a heavy, rich consistency and the ability to keep you going for long days

on the trail. Today, most restaurants offer a healthier version of tortas fritas, fried in pure vegetable oil; however, old-timers swear that “it’s just not the same” as the heritage version, which is often still served in country homes and quinchos.

The toppings you use with your tortas fritas depend on whether you are in the mood for something sweet or something savory. Sweet options might include manjar, honey or marmalade; while savory choices tend toward hot butter, or Chilean pebre.

Chilean pebre, a relish-like sauce, was one of the first “fusion” foods of Chile. It was created during the time of the Conquistadors, blending new ingredients, brought from Spain, like cilantro, and green onions, with native tomatoes, green peppers, and hot chilies.

Today, pebre is a common sauce in Chile, part of our national culinary heritage which is served with a variety of dishes and as an appetizer, with tortas fritas and other breads. Ask for tortas fritas and Chilean pebre in restaurants during your time in the Circuit. If they don’t have any ready, get them to prepare some for the coming day.

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Prepare Patagonian-style tortas fritas and Chilean pebre on your own.

Tortas fritas and pebre are a great snack to make and take with you as you travel the Undiscovered Patagonia Circuit. You can even prepare them in the back country, while camping or

backpacking. Here is all you need to know, in a few quick steps.

Patagonian-style tortas fritas and Chilean pebre are delicious, highly portable snacks; great additions to any Tabla on the road or trail. A fun way to explore this culinary tradition is to make a batch for yourself.

Step 1: Buy your ingredients. The ingredients for making Patagonian-style tortas fritas with Chilean pebre are very basic. No matter how small or remote the town, you’ll be able to find what you need.

Shopping List: To make a batch (approximately 15-20 medium sized tortas fritas), head to the closest store and purchase: a kilo of all-purpose flour, a small packet of dry yeast, salt, a one liter bottle of vegetable oil, and, optionally, a small packet of manteca (animal fat).

Chilean Pebre can be a little trickier in remote areas where there is sometimes limited access to fresh vegetables. One option is to shop for these ingredients in one of the larger towns, like Cochrane or El Chaltén and bring them with you. Another is to opt for other toppings, like marmalade or Ají Chileno (Chilean hot sauce). To make fresh Chilean pebre, you will need 3-4 medium tomatoes, one bunch of fresh cilantro, one bunch of chives, leftover vegetable oil from the tortas fritas, a fresh lemon, a head of garlic, salt, a small bottle of white wine vinegar, and green chilies.

Step 2: Prepare your Chilean Pebre: Peel, seed and finely chop the tomatoes, and blend with 2 teaspoons of vegetable oil, a teaspoon of white wine vinegar, the juice of one lemon, 2 minced garlic cloves, ½ cup of chopped cilantro, 1/2 cup of finely chopped scallions, and 1 finely chopped green chili. Add ¾ cup of cold water and salt to taste. It’s best to let your Chilean pebre sit for an hour to give time for the flavors to blend.

Step 3: Prepare your Dough: Dissolve 1 heaping Tablespoon of dry yeast in 1/3 cup of lukewarm water. Blend 1½ cups of flour with 1½ teaspoons of salt and ½ cup of vegetable oil OR melted animal fat, as you prefer. Mix until a dough is formed. If necessary, add a few more tablespoons of water until the dough holds together. Turn the dough onto a floured surface and knead for 8 -10 minutes, until it is not sticky and springs back when poked. Form into a ball and dust with flour. Place into a bowl and cover with a clean, slightly humid towel. Allow to rise in a warm area for about 45 minutes.

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Step 4: Prepare your Torta Fritas: There are several ways to roll out and cut tortas fritas. One method is to roll the dough to about 1/4 inch thickness, and use a round cookie-cutter or a turned over drinking glass to make small circles. Poke a hole in the center of each with your finger, (like a doughnut). Pour enough oil in a small skillet to have a depth of about an inch. Heat, until it sizzles when the dough is added. Fry your tortas in small batches, until golden brown on both sides, turning them once. Drain on paper towels and let them cool a bit before eating with your fresh Chilean pebre (or other yummy toppings)! Buen provecho!

P.S. A note about preparing tortas fritas in the back country: Tortas fritas can be prepared and eaten almost anywhere. You can even prepare them using portable back-country stoves; however, please take care with the use of hot oil! Make sure your camp stove is on a stable surface and do not let children play near cooking area. Alternatively, you can opt to pack-in your tortas fritas, already prepared, and eat them when you’re ready for a break. We’d have to say, this is much more in keeping with the gaucho tradition!

NOTES

Evelyn Pfeiffer

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Join the elite few who have biked the Carretera Austral of Chile.

Chile’s Carretera Austral is an international icon for distance cycling. Biking the entire route takes months of training, precise planning, and expensive gear;

however, we’ve got a plan that allows everyone to sample a bit of the experience.

By this point in the Undiscovered Patagonia Circuit, you’ve likely passed almost as many cyclists as sheep. With fully loaded bikes that carry all their supplies, these hard-core road warriors travel the world over, on multi-month, or in some cases, multi-year journeys. Chile’s Carretera Austral is the distance cycling holy grail. Most bikers begin their journey through this part of Patagonia some 1,240 kilometers north of Villa O’Higgins, in the city of Puerto Montt and follow the Carretera Austral south for its entirety, stopping only for obligatory crossings in ferries. As these bikers descend, the world surrounding them becomes wilder and more remote, and the road degrades from pavement to gravel. They press on, in their quest for the ultimate prize; reaching the docks of Puerto Bahamondes where they can pose for a picture under the sign indicating “The end of the Carretera Austral” before boarding El Quetru, to take them across Lago O’Higgins for passage into Argentina.

Biking the entire route takes months of training, precise planning, and expensive gear ; however, everyone can get a feel for the experience. Bike day rentals are available in Villa O’Higgins, from the Robinson Crusoe Lodge and we have three great routes that will help you make your own memories of biking the Carretera Austral. Your challenge is to enjoy the beautiful sights, sounds, and aromas, as you chart your course toward the end of this world-famous ride.

Circuit 1: Villa O’Higgins to Puerto Bahamondes.

• Distance: 14 Km out and back.• Duration: 1-3 hours.• Seasonality: Year round.• Difficulty: All bike-riders.

The Route: Head south along the Carretera Austral, passing the Los Corrales sector and the shores of the Mosco River. You’ll cross over the Grosse Bridge, and then follow the shore of the river, which

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soon empties into O’Higgins Lake. You’ll pass several shipyards during the ride, some of which are historical milestones for the settlement of the lake and surrounding areas. Your ending point is the Bahamondes dock, where you will find boats offering transport and tourism services for the lake. Remember to look for the sign that marks the end of the Carretera Austral!!! Like other bikers around the world who have reached this point on two-wheels, you need your picture to commemorate this special ride! On the way back, there is a great short hike just before the Grosse Bridge. Here, you can leave your bike and walk the short Alta Vista, trail; the trail head is notable on the left side of the road. Above, there are great views of the Los Ciervos and O’Higgins Lakes and the length of the Mosco Valley.

Route 2: Villa O’Higgins to Cisnes Lake.

• Distance: 32 Km out and back.• Duration: 2-4 hours.• Seasonality: Year round.• Difficulty: All bike riders. The Circuit: Head north along the Carretera Austral, passing through beautiful native forests and over the Mayer River, via the Van Schouwen Bridge. Continue along the road to the shores of Cisnes Lake. Here you can explore the southeast shore of the lake, turning around at the bridge that crosses the river, which is the drainage of the lake. This route is great for combining bird watching or fishing activities. There are many places where you can leave your bike and approach to the lake or advance into the forest.

Circuit 3: Villa O’Higgins to the Chapel Built by Padre Ronchi and the Mayer River.

• Distance: 52 Km out and back.• Duration: 5-6 hours.• Seasonality: Year round.• Difficulty: All bike riders. The Route: Ride north from town on the Carretera Austral for 7.5 Km to the crossroad for Entrada Mayer, just before the

Van Schouwen Bridge. Turn right to follow this side road. The route passes forests, wetlands and many lagoons alongside the road. You will have good chances to spot Huemules (hippocamelus bisulcus) and a variety of Patagonian birds, including the ringed kingfisher (ceryle torquata) and the Magellanic or black woodpecker (campephilus magellanicus). This route ends at the emblematic chapel, built by Father Antonio Ronchi, about 18 Km from the crossing. You’ll see this charming little chapel, set back in a small meadow, on the right side of the road.

When traveling by bike, it is important to remember that on gravel roads it is more difficult for other vehicles to see you, because of the dust. In Patagonia, there are no bike lanes for cyclists and the sides of the roads are narrow to non-existent. Therefore, as a general rule, cyclists must increase the chances that other drivers will see them by wearing reflective clothing, using headlights and reflectors, etc. Always keep your right and be prepared to get off the road to avoid collisions. Uphill, and in curved areas, it is important to be visible always from both directions of the road. Finally, be alert for animals; they can cross unexpectedly.

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Inform yourself about the Bird Lifezones in the Circuit.

This article will help you predict the types of birds you are likely to see as you travel through the Undiscovered Patagonia Circuit.

“The birds of Chile represent about 5% of the world’s total species, which is calculated at approximately 8,600. To date, 448 species of birds representing 56 avian families have been recorded in Chile. Of these, approximately 296 species nest here. The major families represented are Procellariids, with 32 species of seabirds, and Tyrannids, with 35 species of tyrant flycatchers. Endemic species, that is to say, birds found only within Chilean borders, number 6 mainland species and 5 insular ones.” (Source: “The Birds of Chile”, Araya & Chester, 1993).

Geographic distinctions and associated climate differences are the main factors which produce the tremendous variety of avian species observed in Patagonia. They habitat distinct lifezones, which have been classified by ornithologists (Goodall, Johnson

and Philippi, 1965; Araya & Sharon Chester, 1993) assisting birdwatchers with predicting the types of birds they are likely to see.

Within the Undiscovered Patagonia Circuit, there are two avian lifezones, the Feugian Zone and the Patagonian Zone.

Villa O’Higgins and the rest of the areas within Stages 3 and 4, lies within the Feugian Lifezone, which includes the channels, fjords, glaciers, forests and islands of southwestern Chile and by extension, southwestern Argentina. Birds that are characteristic of this lifezone include the Magellanic diving petrel (pelecanoides magellani), imperial cormorant (leucocarbo atriceps or phalacrocorax atriceps), flying steamer duck (tachyeres patachonicus), flightless steamer duck (tachyeres pteneres),

Magellanic woodpecker (campephilus magellanicus), Evelyn Pfeiffer

Ruddy-headed goose (chloephaga rubidiceps), Rodrigo Merino

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Strickland's snipe (gallinago stricklandii), Austral parakeet (enicognathus ferrugineus), Magellanic or black woodpecker (campephilus magellanicus), black necked swan (cygnus melancoryphus), and short-billed miner (geositta Antarctica).

Stages 1 and 2 of the Circuit lie within ecosystems characteristic of the Patagonian Lifezone, which includes Grasslands, scrub, steppe and pampa. Here, you are likely to see the lesser rhea (rhea Americana), ruddy-headed goose (chloephaga rubidiceps), crested caracara (caracara cheriway), Austral or Chilensis flamingo (phoenicopterus chilensis), and Patagonian yellow finch (sicalis lebruni).

The majorities of Patagonia’s birds migrate during the year, so don’t be surprised to also spot some winged visitors during your travels. As Patagonia has a temperate climate within the southern hemisphere, summer is from December through February. The main breeding season for birds is during late spring and summer, especially those in the southern regions. Thus, the main time of arrival for migratory birds is between October and December, and their autumn departure occurs between late February and April (Source: “Birds of Chile”, Jaramillo, 2003).

NOTES

Austral or Chilensis flamingo (phoenicopterus chilensis), Rodrigo Merino

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Calling the curious! It’s time to break out those binoculars.

This is a beautiful and relaxing, guided interpretive walk, for bird lovers and those curious to learn more. You’ll go deep into the native forest surrounding

Villa O'Higgins to observe and understand the relationship between the various species which habitat the forests of Patagonia, and the Andes.

• Activity Type: Guided Bird watching and Nature Hike

• Sector: Villa O’Higgins• Starting Point: Tsonek Eco-camping• Ending Point: Tsonek Eco-camping• Considerations: This excursion is

offered by Mauricio Melgarejo, Tsonek Eco-camping & Expeditions. Contact details in the Service Directory.

• Distance: 3 – 7 Km• Duration: 2 – 7 hours• Seasonality: Year round.• Difficulty: Suitable for anybody

interested in understanding the ecosystem better, including children ages 8 and up. Not suitable for large or noisy groups.

The Circuit: If you enjoy bird watching, or are curious to learn more, you are in for

a great experience. Mauricio Melgarejo, the Director of Tsonek Expeditions, describes his team’s experience and approach: “We combine the disciplines of ornithology, botany and fly-fishing. We invite you to get to know the fascinating ecosystems that surround us, to breathe the freshest air of the planet, and to discover the wonder in every step we take”.

The walking circuit begins within the Tsonek Eco-camping Area, where your guide will evaluate the conditions and interests of the group, provide you with binoculars, scopes, and field guides, to facilitate better observation and identification of the bird species typically found in the forest, valley bottoms, wetlands, and lagoons. The excursion is intended not only for bird watching; but also, for exploring the interrelationships between different bird species and the rest of the ecosystem.

Birds usually spotted during this excursion include: carancho (caracara plancus), kestrel (falco sparverius), harrier (buteo polyosoma), chercán (troglodytes musculus), cometocino Patagónico (phyrgilus patagonicus), churrín del sur (scytalopus magellanicus), Andean condor (vultur gryphus), southern hued hued (pteroptochos tarnii), cachudito (anairetes parulus), diucón (xolmis pyrope) and Magellanic or black woodpecker (campephilus magellanicus), among others. Apart from the species inhabiting the region, you can also find various migratory species, depending on the season and the conditions.

Dress properly for cold weather, with layers you can take on or off, as the temperatures rise during the morning. Trips generally head Cristian Solis

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out early, around 06h00, in order to capture the best hours of bird activity. Groups are normally comprised of 2 – 4 persons, of ages 8 and up.

Black necked swan (cygnus melancoryphus) Evelyn Pfeiffer

Carancho (caracara plancus) Rodrigo Merino

Andean condor (vultur gryphus) Public Use

Magellanic or black woodpecker (campephilus magellanicus)

Evelyn Pfeiffer

Southern hued hued (pteroptochos tarnii) Rodrigo Merino

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Rise to the challenge with these bird watching basics.

Part of the fun of bird watching is the challenge of identifying each variety. You have to be ready to observe a variety of details in a quick

period of time, since birds tend to be always on the move. The pre-dawn shadows of early morning hours, the arrival of the sun, tree cover

and bushes; all of these factors add to the challenge and fun.

Ready to try your hand at bird watching? There’s no better place than Patagonia, with it’s grand diversity of ecosystems and habitat. You can improve your chances of success by paying attention to these simple tips:

Watch the Bird – not the book! When you spot a bird, take the time to watch the bird, making mental notes of its songs, habits, size and markings. Take advantage of your time with the bird and once it leaves, jot down notes and sketches of everything you remember.

Listen closely. Sometimes, surrounded by the sounds of nature, you forget to pay attention to the unique vocalizations of birds. Remember to listen to the bird’s song as you watch; this is one of the best tools for identification.

Size and Shape are the place to

start. Basic characteristics of your bird include their general size and shape. These aspects are important to note and will help you to determine the correct family. In comparison with the common birds you are used to seeing, how would you classify your new friend? Is it bigger than a sparrow? A duck? An ostrich!?! Next, imagine the outline of the bird as a silhouette. What is the shape of its body? Does it fly? How does it move when on the ground? Would you describe it as being agile or unsteady?

Note the details; bills and marks. Once you’ve got the basics, begin to focus in on the details. Just like with humans, start with the face. What does the bill look like? Would you describe it as straight or curved? Flat or cone shaped? What kinds of markings are on the face of the bird? Look for unique details relating to color bands, outlines around the eyes, neck color and

Here’s a practice case provided by www.destinopatagonia.cl.

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markings, arcs around the eyes, hoods, a crest of feathers, etc.

Move on down…wings and tails. Once you’ve finished with the head, begin to move along the body of the bird, noting distinctive characteristics of shape, color and marking relating to the body, wings and tail. You are likely to notice important distinctions when the bird begins to fly away. Note the color of its back and body, as well as distinctive stripes or color bands. Is the tail of the bird forked, rounded or squared? How long is it in relation to the body of the bird? Is it held upright or straight back?

Study the bird's legs. What is their length and color? The feet of the bird are important tools that provide clues as to its primary behaviors. If you have the chance to view the bird’s feet, notice if they are webbed or if they have talons.

Remember that old saying, “You are what you eat”. Hopefully, you will have an opportunity to see some of the birds you observe as they eat. Notice whether they search for their food within the bark of the trees or instead, fish for food by swaying their beaks or diving in water, forage for insects and seeds on the ground, forage for food amongst already dead animals they encounter or hunt and kill small animals such as rodents.

Put it in context. Where did you see this bird? Jot down a few notes about the place where you spotted your specimen, the type of natural features that were around, the weather, and the date.

Solve the case! By now, you’ve captured all the critical clues to solve your grand mystery. Utilize your notes and observations, with a bird guide of the region, to determine the type of bird you have observed.

A couple of good guides include:

• Jaramillo, 2003. Birds of Chile, printed by Princeton Field Guides

• Costa y Punta, 2009. Field Guide to the Flora & Fauna of the Glaciares National

Park. [email protected].• On the Internet, we recommend www.

avesdechile.cl.

BIRDS SIGHTED

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Enter Father Antonio Ronchi’s world where anything is possible

and everyone pitches in.

The inspiring life and works of this self-proclaimed “rascal priest” provide a window into the culture and history of our unique corner of the world.

Father Antonio Ronchi arrived in Chile in 1960, at the age of 30, and dedicated the remainder of his life to work within her most rural and isolated communities. He helped them improve basic infrastructure and build social capital, with a unique style that enabled ALL to participate. At times, it is hard to separate the legend from the historical facts; perhaps that is the essence of Father Ronchi’s special style. He described himself as the “rascal priest”.

Born February 3, 1930, in Balsamo, Milan, Italy, Father Antonio Ronchi first traveled to Chile in 1960, with the Mother of the Divine Providence mission. After a year, he was sent south to Puerto Cisnes, a small coastal town in the north-central area of Aysén. During this assignment, he spent 7 years in the rural communities of the Region, visiting communities and rural households, conversing with local authorities and business interests, searching for ways in which he could garner resources and assistance to improve rural living conditions.

Father Ronchi’s second assignment in the Region of Aysén began in 1972 and lasted approximately 20 years. Rural areas in the Region were still very isolated. Imagine a place surrounded by dense forests, mountains and fiords; perhaps the very place you are in now, while reading this article. But this was 1972; before roads or cell phones or WiFi. In fact, access to electricity was still fairly uncommon for many families in the Region in 1972; the infrastructure was extremely sparse.

There were few roads, schools, medical facilities, and churches. Communication largely occurred through news passed along from farm to farm. There was UHF radio; however, only the government or Rural Health Posts had equipment. Residents needed to reach these posts and ask permission, in order to send a message.

Father Ronchi worked tirelessly over the next 20 years, traveling to corners in the Aysén Region that were considered

Ida Vasquez, Community Church Building Project, Lago Verde, CH, late 1970s.

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Elias Munoz

unreachable. He helped communities build small churches, workshops, boats, docks and schools. He helped them obtain small water turbines for electricity and installed a considerable number of FM radio antennas to improve communication.

One of the unique aspects of Father Ronchi’s style was his use of what is called a “minga” approach within his community projects and work. This approach was borrowed from the Island of Chiloe, a bit further north in Chile, where many of the Aysén settlers had ties. When communities in Chiloe had challenges or problems to address, people came together to solve them as a community; each making a personal contribution to the project, based on their individual talents and resources.

In Aysén, Father Ronchi would go door to door, calling on each and every person in the entire community in which he was working, often walking the long distances from farm to farm, and asking for their aid in the development of each particular project. From donating wood and supplies to putting in hours of hard labor in construction to providing food for the workers; everyone in the town would help in some way or another. This was one of the main reasons

why Father Ronchi is still so highly praised; beyond helping build infrastructure, he helped connect communities.

In 1994, Father Ronchi received Chilean nationality, in recognition of his extensive work for the isolated and impoverished inhabitants of the southern regions. This official recognition went beyond his achievements, also emphasizing his austere, enterprising approach and dedication to the communities he served. On December 17, 1997, Father Ronchi passed away at the age of 67. His remains lie in the cemetery of Puerto Aysén, Chile.

While in Villa O’Higgins you can visit the small museum in the former church, which borders the Plaza of Arms. Here, you can learn more about Father Ronchi and his work. You will see more examples of his projects and influence as you travel through the final Sectors of the Undiscovered Patagonia Circuit,. Many of the people who live in these areas had the opportunity to interact personally with Father Ronchi. They recount fond memories of his many travels through Patagonia and his time spent in their communities.

Solis Family Collection, Lago Verde, CH

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Ride along with Father Ronchi.

Immersed amongst glaciers, fiords, and rivers, imagine coming upon a friendly sort, walking between towns, along the Carretera Austral. He’s

Father Ronchi, on his way to visit friends and assist them with the work in their villages. When you stop to greet him, he tells you he's just a “rascal

priest”. Why not bring him along and let him show you some of his work?

During Stages 3 and 4 of the Undiscovered Patagonia Circuit, you can visit some of the chapels, churches, and other projects undertaken by Father Ronchi, with the local communities. And don’t stop there! Many of the people who live in these areas knew Father Ronchi, and worked alongside him, in some of his many projects! If you find yourself with the chance to chat, ask about their memories of Father Ronchi's many travels through Patagonia, and the time he spent in their communities. Here are some specific places to look for, as you make your way through the Undiscovered Patagonia Circuit:

Villa O’Higgins: On the northern side of the Plaza of Arms, you will spot a yellow church, which has been converted into the Father Ronchi Museum. The original church was built by Father Ronchi, with the

community, in 1977. Today, exhibits honor his years of development work in the Region. You can peek inside his sleeping quarters, to the side of the chapel, where he had private possessions and reading materials, and see a number of other historical objects that portray the local traditions of this sector.

Canogas Chapel: 7 Km from Villa O'Higgins, just before you reach the Van Schouwen Bridge over the Mayer River, you will encounter a road leading to your right. Turn right to follow this side road, which follows the course of the Mayer River for 47 Km, before arriving at the Mayer River Border Control Post. About 18 Km from the crossing, you’ll encounter the emblematic chapel, built by the Father Antonio Ronchi, set back in a small meadow, on the right side of the road. The Chapel makes use of a pioneer building practice, called Canogas, which consists of hollowing out tree trunks and interweaving them to form a roof. The Chapel was built by Father Antonio Ronchi with help from residents of the communities of Villa O'Higgins and the Mayer River Valley.

Mitchell Fiord – Puerto Yungay: While crossing Mitchell Fiord by ferry, you will notice that the boat bears the name “Padre Antonio Ronchi”. This modern vessel

Sector Villa O’Higgins, Cristian Solis

Solis Family Collection, Lago Verde, CH

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was christened in 2005, after a contest was held to name the boat and determine the paint scheme. If you look at the framed artwork hanging in the main cabin, you will find the winning entry, on which the scheme was based. We encourage you to take a minute to sign the guest register on board, where you can browse the entries of other travelers from all over the world.

After your arrival in Puerto Yungay, you’ll have the opportunity to

discover a treasure, hidden to most travelers through the area, as well as the chance to explore “what could have been”. Stop by the small cafe and kiosk, El Peregrino, and speak with Don Francisco Velásquez and his wife, Marta Inés Nahuel. You may have to wait for the crowd to disperse, but as others rush off, you will be rewarded with rich treats from the kitchen and stories of life in such a remote corner of the world. Don Francisco and his wife live in one of the four houses constructed here, seemingly in the middle of nowhere, by Father Ronchi in the 1980s. Father Ronchi not only built houses in Puerto Yungay; he built a school, a chapel, and workshops in which inhabitants could work. In fact, his project even included installation of an indispensable turbine, to produce the energy necessary for this would-be town.

Ronchi’s vision was that families living in Caleta Tortel would leave their houses and relocate to Yungay. He felt it offered more options for access, as the Carretera Austral was connected as far as Yungay. He argued that in fact, Yungay provided important access to the Pacific, through the Mitchell Estuary and was a more feasible location to build a town.

At the time, Caleta Tortel had no road reaching town; access was only by light plane or boat. Travelers left from a sector named Puerto Vagabundo and navigated

Sector Caleta Tortel, Trace Gale

Solis Family Collection, Lago Verde, Chile

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the Baker River to arrive through the Bay. Ronchi’s plan never materialized, and it took until 2003, almost 20 more years, for roads to finally reach the isolated town of Caleta Tortel; which, in spite of these challenges, developed its own system for expansion, based on beautiful, but quirky, mazes of cypress boardwalks, connecting houses and buildings, suspended above the fiords.

As you explore the area, you can try to envision Ronchi’s reasoning, see the remnants of his project in Yungay, and even, take a heritage boat excursion down the

Baker River, to arrive in Caleta Tortel the traditional way. Then you can decide; should Caleta Tortel have moved down the road to Puerto Yungay?

Caleta Tortel: The works of Padre Ronchi and the community of Caleta Tortel can best be discovered, meandering along the many boardwalks of the town. You’ll encounter a full sized wooden statue of Padre Ronchi standing outside of one of his famous chapels. In addition to this small church, which is still in active use, Padre Ronchi supported the creation of the first FM radio and television antennas for the town. Although the satellite dish you see today is a much later addition, it’s a constant reminder of the efforts Padre Ronchi made to connect Caleta Tortel with the outside world. As in Puerto Yungay, Padre

Ronchi helped the community build their first hydroelectric turbine, providing much needed power for this isolated town. He also constructed a boat to help transport residents through the fiords and assist with their economic development. Today, the boat is no longer in use and its condition has deteriorated; but, its shell is still intact and can be seen next to the main docks of Caleta Tortel.

Sector Los Ñadis: Approximately halfway between Caleta Tortel and Cochrane, you will enter the sector known as Los Ñadis. If you keep a close eye, you will spot yet another of Padre Ronchi’s rustic chapels, built with the farmers of this sector. If you would like to learn more about the life and work of Father Padre Ronchi, you can visit the Undiscovered Patagonia Website, where you will find links to 12 radio-theater pod-casts that bring his many stories and legendary adventures to life. If you can understand Spanish, they make great company for the road! These pod-casts were developed as part of a project, paid for by the Chilean Government, through their FONDART program, the Padre Ronchi Foundation and the Achen Theater Company. Initially, the series was broadcast throughout the small towns, rural areas and farms of the region as a weekly radio theater program. Now, you can download them to your MP3 or Smart phone before your trip so you will have them with you during your travels to accompany you on the road.

Sector Los Ñadis, Padre Ronchi Works Foundation

Sector Caleta Tortel, Trace Gale

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Stage 3 Service DirectoryService Directory for Stage 3

Traverse the Andes to the Ice Fields.


3C BancoEstado “Neighbor Fund” for Bank Card Customers. Villa O’Higgins, CH, Av. Lago Christie, www.cajavecina.cl.The BancoEstado (State Bank of Chile), has an auxiliary ATM-like cash box called its “Neighbor Fund” for bank card customers. This cash box has a limited supply of cash on-hand, and customers can only withdrawal small amounts of money each day. To use this service you must have a current account with BancoEstado. Services offered to clients of the bank include: withdrawals, cash deposits, BancoEstado transfers between customer’s accounts & third party accounts, loan payments, BancoEstado cash advances and BancoEstado credit card payment, BancoEstado line of credit operations, balance inquiries and password changes, reloading of mobile phones & payment of utility bills. Plan accordingly!


3C Tourism Information Office, Villa O’HigginsVilla O’Higgins, CH, Kiosk, southwest corner of the Plaza of Arms. (0672) 431805, [email protected]. This Tourism Information Office can provide maps, brochures, & information about tourism services & public transportation, including the latest bus schedules & transfer information.

GENERAL – SAFETY

3C Police Commissary, Villa O’HigginsVilla O’Higgins, CH, Carretera Austral, Southern end of Town, (0672) 567196. Investigation & response management in the case of incidents or accidents & assistance w/other aspects of travel logistics.

GENERAL – HEALTH

3C Rural Health Post, Villa O’HigginsVilla O’Higgins, CH, Carretera Austral, middle of the block between Rio Pascua & Rio Mayer, (0672) 431883. 2 paramedics work at this rural health post, which provides basic outpatient care & medications along w/emergency & ambulance coordination.


3C Correos de Chile (Post Office)Villa O’Higgins, CH, Corner of Río Mayer & Lago Christie, (600) 502020. Local agency w/basic postal services & office hours Monday - Friday, from 09h00 -13h00 & 15h00 - 19h00, & Saturday hours from 09h00 - 13h00.

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3C Don Carlos Air TransportVilla O’Higgins, CH, Av. O’Higgins, between Rio Pascua & Mayer, (0672) 231981, [email protected]. Villa O’Higgins Sales office. Flies small aircraft to Villa O’Higgins (CH$36.000) Mondays & Thursdays. Charter flights are available to Caleta Tortel & Cochrane.


3C Cordillera Bus StationVilla O’Higgins, CH, Lago Salto 302, (0672) 431829, [email protected]. Buses Acuario 13 provides transfers between Cochrane & Villa O’Higgins Tortel, 2-3 times a week. In Villa O´Higgins, obtain updated schedules & reservations in the “Cordillera” Bus Station.

3C “Hospedaje Patagonia” Bus Stop & Local OfficeVilla O´Higgins, CH, Corner of Lago Christie & Rio Pascua, (0672) 431818, www.aguilaspatagonicas.cl, [email protected]. Buses Águilas Patagónicas provides transfers between Cochrane & Villa O’Higgins Tortel, 2-3 times a week. Visit their website for helpful information. In Villa O´Higgins, you can obtain updated schedules & details on how to make your reservations in the “Hospedaje Patagonia” Bus Station.

GETTING AROUND – BOAT TRANSPORT

3A El Huemul Ship - Ferry for Crossing of Laguna/Lago del DesiertoEl Chaltén, AR, Tourism Information Office, El Chaltén, AR, 28 Perito Moreno (Inside the Bus Terminal), (02962) 493370, [email protected] or [email protected]. When operating, the privately managed ferry “El Huemul” provides transport the length of Laguna/Lago del Desierto, (45 minutes) & will take bikes. There is a fee for the crossing. Operations depend on the availability of operating companies. Check w/the Tourism Information Office in El Chaltén for the most up to data status & schedules for this service. If the boat is not in operation or you simply prefer to walk (which has the added bonus of saving some money) please refer to the description of the Laguna/Lago del Desierto hike. Many report the hike is the best option!

3C L/M Quetru Ship - Ferry for Crossing Lago O’Higgins/San MartinVilla O´Higgins, CH, Carretera Austral Km. 1240, (0672) 431821, www.robinsoncrusoe.com or www.villaohiggins.com/hielosur, [email protected] or [email protected]. The L/M Quetru makes trips several days each week during the months of November – March, between Candelario Mansilla & Puerto Bahamondes, your gateway to Villa O’Higgins. You can see the precise dates & make your reservations on-line at the Robinson Crusoe site listed here. The boat makes 2 stops at Candelario Mansilla Dock on sailing days; the first at around11h30 & the second around 16h00. You can board during either stop for the crossing to Puerto Bahía Bahamondes, 7 Km south of Villa O’Higgins. The morning stop ($65.000) offers you the opportunity to join the day-long excursion to the O´Higgins Glacier, offered by Robinson Crusoe - Deep Patagonia. If you don´t wish to visit the Glacier, you can spend the day in Candelario Mansilla & board the ferry in the afternoon, around 16h00, to go directly to Villa O´Higgins for $40.000. Upon arrival at the Puerto Bahía Bahamondes, there are several small transport vehicles that offer rides to town (7 Km) for around $2.000 Chilean Pesos. Reservations are advised.

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3A Las Lengas TransportationEl Chaltén, AR, Antonio de Viedma 95 or Omnibus Terminal, Perito Moreno 28, (02962) 493023 or 493370 ext. 26. Las Lengas Transports offers (minivan) transfers to Laguna/Lago del Desierto (AR$130), Hostería El Pilar (AR$50) & Río Eléctrico - Los Huemules Private Reserve (AR$50).

3A Walk Patagonia TransportationEl Chaltén, AR, 62 Av. Antonio Rojo N2, (02962) 493275, www.walkpatagonia.com, [email protected]. Transfers (4x4 vehicles or 15 person minibus) around El Chaltén Sector: El Pilar, Laguna/Lago del Desierto, Bahia Tunel, & special or private trips to/from El Calafate Airport.

3C El Mosco Passenger TransportVilla O’Higgins, CH, Carretera Austral Km 1240, (0672) 431819, www.patagoniaelmosco.com, [email protected]. El Mosco (15-passenger van) offers shuttle service for passengers & bicycles from Villa O’Higgins to Pto. Bahia Bahamondes/Lago O’Higgins ($2.000 +/-), round-trip, & trips from Villa O’Higgins to Tortel ($ 10.000 +/-) & back, during the months of December through March, in a. They also offer special trips in the region. Check for prices.

3C Robinson Crusoe - Deep Patagonia TransfersVilla O’Higgins, CH, Carretera Austral Km. 1240, (02) / (02) / (0672) 3341503 / 3341504 / 431909, www.robinsoncrusoe.com, [email protected]. Robinson Crusoe offers top quality transfers (coach) between Villa O’Higgins & the Bahia Bahamondes port ($2.000) & between Villa O’Higgins & Caleta Tortel (Tuesdays & Thursdays: $15.000 1 way; $25.000 round trip).


3C Gas Station, Villa O’HigginsVilla O’Higgins, CH, Lago Christie Ave. - On the north end in the curve. Diesel & Gasoline sales. This is your last gas station until Cochrane!


3B Rural Logistics Services - Estancia Candelario MansillaVilla O´Higgins, CH, Candelario Mansilla Sector, (0672) 431805. At the end of the crossing between El Chaltén, AR, & Candelario Mansilla, CH, (Section 3-B), Don Ricardo, of the Estancia Candelario Mansilla, can coordinate horse packing & pick-up truck transport for the Chilean sections of the crossing ($5.000+/-). The Argentine Patrol Officers can radio him to coordinate times. Once you arrive, he can help you explore the area´s trails, lakes & rivers.


3B Rural Hostel - Estancia Candelario MansillaVilla O´Higgins, CH, Candelario Mansilla, (0672) 431805. At the end of the crossing between El Chaltén, AR, & Candelario Mansilla, CH, (Section 3-B), the Estancia Candelario Mansilla offers a small, basic, rural hostel ($6.000 per/person), dinner service ($5.000) & breakfast ($3.000), prepared by the family.

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3C Albergue o Hostel El MoscoVilla O’Higgins, CH, Carretera Austral Km 1240, (0672) 431819, www.patagoniaelmosco.com, [email protected]. The Hostel accommodates 24 people & features 4 large bedrooms; each w/6 beds (3 bunk beds), a large lounge area, well equipped kitchen available to guests, maps, a library w/book exchange, games, laundry service & bicycle storage. There is free Internet access w/a common terminal & Wi-Fi. ($9.000/person w/o breakfast; $12.000, w/breakfast). 19% Taxes is included in prices.

3C Hospedaje CordilleraVilla O’Higgins, CH, Lago Salto 302, (0672) 431829, [email protected]. Welcoming, centrally located hospedaje offering 2 doubles w/private baths ($18.000/person w/breakfast), 2 doubles w/shared baths ($10.000 /person w/breakfast), 1 double w/shared bath ($18.000 w/breakfast) & 1 single w/shared bath ($10.000 w / breakfast). Food service is available for guests.

3C Hostería El MoscoVilla O’Higgins, CH, Carretera Austral Km 1240, (0672) 431819, www.patagoniaelmosco.com, [email protected]. Hostería El Mosco has 6 comfortable rooms w/capacity for up to 15 people. 3 are configured w/private baths, a double bed & a single bed (2p - $45.000, 3p - $55.000). The other 3 have an oversized single bed, a single bed, & share a bath ($18.000 single, $30.000 double), The hostería shares the large living room w/kitchen access, library, book exchange, full information on the Patagonia, laundry, free Internet access & Wi-Fi w/the Hostel. American-style breakfast & 19% Taxes included in prices.

3C Hospedaje FabianaVilla O’Higgins, CH, Lago O´Higgins 98, (0672) 431824, [email protected]. This residential hospedaje ($8.000 w/breakfast) stands out for its family atmosphere & friendly personalized attention provided by the owners, who are available to help their visitors 24 hours a day. Located on the southwest corner of the Plaza of Arms, w/a beautiful view of Cerro Santiago. Hospedaje is located in the family’s house & has 1 bedroom w/a double bed & 1 w/3 single beds, parking, use of the kitchen, Internet & laundry. Lorena cooks for her guests, when asked, w/lunch or dinner for $3.500/person.

3C Hospedaje La CascadaVilla O’Higgins, CH, Pasaje Lago Salto, corner w/Río Mosco, (0672) 431833. Traditional hospedaje in the center of town, serving families & independent travelers. La Cascada offers 5 spacious, double rooms w/3 shared baths ($6.000/person). There is free access to their kitchen for independent travelers. Breakfast service is offered ($2.500) w/homemade bread.

3C Hospedaje PatagoniaVilla O´Higgins, CH, Corner of Rio Pascua & Lago Christie, (0672) 431818. Established in 1997, this is the most traditional of the Hospedajes of Villa O’Higgins, located on the corner of the Plaza. The Hospedaje ($10.000) has 9 rooms: 1 Single & 7 Doubles, w/shared baths, & 1 matrimonial w/a private bath. They also offer meals for their guests ($2.500 Breakfast, $5.000 Lunch & Dinner).

3C Hostería RunínVilla O’Higgins, CH, Pasaje Vialidad, Villa O’Higgins (Access north Carretera Austral), (0672) 431821 / 431822, [email protected]. Hostería Runín is located in the northern access to Villa O’Higgins amongst ñire forests, overlooking the Cordón Nevado, only 500 m from the center of the town. There are a total of 4 spacious double rooms w/private baths ($28.000+/-) . There is a cozy family-style living room and the price includes an American breakfast w/fruits, cereal, homemade bread & local produce. Hostel-style services are also available in 4 double rooms w/shared baths. ($8.000 per/person without breakfast). Guests of the hostel can purchase breakfast, if desired..

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3C Lodge Robinson Crusoe - Deep PatagoniaVilla O’Higgins, CH, Carretera Austral Km 1240, (02) / (02) / (0672) 3341503 / 3341504 / 431909, www.robinsoncrusoe.com, [email protected]. Lodge Robinson Crusoe was inspired by the legend of the adventurer Robinson Crusoe. 12 beautiful rooms w/private baths & breakfast style “buffet”. (Single w/double bed - $101.150, Matrimonial bed or 2 singles - $119.000; Triple w/Matrimonial bed + single bed, or 3 single beds - $154.700). Through their architecture & decor creates a mystique & ambiance that allows guests to unwind from their travels, relax, & contemplate the beautiful natural surroundings. The Lodge & its services are available for independent travelers & for those who opt for all-inclusive programs. The facility includes a clubhouse, outdoor, wood-burning hot tubs, private parking facilities, & a small gift/gear kiosk.

3C Residencial Carretera AustralVilla O’Higgins, CH, Río Colorado 212, (0672) 431880, [email protected]. Cozy accommodations w/family atmosphere & 6 double rooms w/2 shared baths. ($6.000 w/breakfast) Food service provided for guests.


3C Cabaña El MoscoVilla O’Higgins, CH, Carretera Austral Km 1240, (0672) 431819, www.patagoniaelmosco.com, [email protected]. Nicely built & decorated, warm, comfortable & fully equipped to accommodate up to 7 people. It has a bedroom w/double bed & 1 w/tone oversized single beds, & regular single bed. Living room w/2 sofa beds & a wood stove. For up to 4 people, the price is $45.000/day; 5 people = $50.000, & 6 or 7 people (only if the others are children) is $ 60.000. 19% taxes are included in our prices.

3C Cabañas Entre Patagones CabañasVilla O’Higgins, CH, Carretera Austral, near the north access of Villa O’Higgins, (0672) / (09) 431810 / 66215046, www.entrepatagones.cl, [email protected]. Local family business offering cabañas within a beautiful forested setting ($60.000/night) for groups of 4 - 5 people & a “cabaña Jr.” which accommodates 2 adults & 1 child ($40.000). Cabañas are made of native materials, & decorated in a comfortable style that incorporates elements of the history & culture of the area. Feature top quality mattresses, down comforters, fully equipped kitchen areas, a dining area & living room, clean, comfortable baths, large wooden porches outside, wood burning stoves, & cable TV. Full-service restaurant w/local flavors & traditions, serves breakfast, lunch & dinner.

3C Cabañas FabianaVilla O’Higgins, CH, Lago O´Higgins 98, (0672) 431824, [email protected]. In addition to their family hospedaje, the Fabiana has a lovely cabaña ($30.000) to offer their visitors, w/a double bed & 3 single beds, kitchen, bath, living room, parking, Internet & laundry.

3C Cabaña PatagoniaVilla O´Higgins, CH, Corner of Rio Pascua & Lago Christie, (0672) 431818. The owners of Hospedaje Patagonia also offer a cabaña ($40.000) for up to 4 persons, set amongst a beautiful lenga forest along the way to Puerto Bahía Bahamondes.

3C Cabañas QuiyangoVilla O’Higgins, CH, Carretera Austral, (0672) 431865, [email protected]. 2 fully furnished cabañas for 4-6 people each near the north entrance to Villa O’Higgins on a site w/ample room for parking. Walk around & enjoy the greenhouses & beautiful forests nearby. Mix of matrimonial & single rooms, nice baths, kitchen & living area. Valeska Sambrano, the owner, is a painter (& quite good). The cabañas showcase her work. Optional homemade breakfast w/regional jams & freshly baked bread, served in the main guest house.

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3C Cabañas San GabrielVilla O’Higgins, CH, Lago O’Higgins 300, (0672) 431821, [email protected]. Cabañas San Gabriel ($35.000 - $90.000) offers 6 fully equipped cabañas accommodating 2 - 8 people. Each is equipped w/all the amenities for a comfortable & satisfying break. 4 cabañas located in Villa O’Higgins Center & 2 alongside the Mosco River, where, you can wake up in the morning & see mountains & glaciers. It’s a great way to begin the day! Wood-stove heating, hot water, & fully equipped kitchens for self-service. All cabañas have parking on the premises.

WHERE TO SLEEP – CAMPING & SHELTERS

3B Camping - Estancia Candelario MansillaVilla O´Higgins, CH, Candelario Mansilla, (0672) 431805. At the end of the crossing between El Chaltén, AR, & Candelario Mansilla, CH, (Section 3-B), the Estancia Candelario Mansilla offers a Camping Area ($2.000 per/person), dinner service ($5.000) & breakfast ($3.000), prepared by the family.

3C Camping El MoscoVilla O’Higgins, CH, Carretera Austral Km 1240, (0672) 431819, www.patagoniaelmosco.com, [email protected], Huge site with plenty of space & access to facilities of the hostel: baths, kitchen, lounge, Internet. ($5.000 per/person). 19% Taxes included in prices.

3C Camping Los ÑirresVilla O’Higgins, CH, Northern entrance to Villa O’Higgins, turn off the Carretera Austral & follow Hernan Marino, (0672) 431221, [email protected], Camping area ($3.000) w/baths & hot water. Shelter facilities & self-service kitchen.

3C Camping RunínVilla O’Higgins, CH, Pasaje Vialidad, Villa O’Higgins, Access north Carretera Austral, (0672) 431821 / 431822, [email protected]. Beautiful forested Camping Area, close to town, w/quincho. Meal service possible, upon request.

3C Eco-camping Tsonek “El Parador del Carpintero”Villa O’Higgins, CH, Carretera Austral, 1 mile north of the entrance to Villa O’Higgins, (09) 78929695, www.tsonek.cl, [email protected]. Stay warm & sustainable on 5 wooden tent platforms located 5 min from town. Staff inform: “During the year that it took us to develop, we decided to build using wood from fallen trees & other recycled materials. We protected every tree & plant. Camping Area located deep w/i the Patagonian forest. Eco-camp harmonizes w/incredible scenery, birds, sun, & camaraderie”. Sustainable practices: Solar, properly treated runoff water, hot water showers, heated by kitchen-furnace-oven. Composting toilets.

3C Shelter La FloridaVilla O’Higgins, CH, Sector Río Mosco, Carretera Austral south of town, (0672) 431815, [email protected]. Rural setting w/plenty of lenga forest. Quincho & sleeping shelters; 1 for 3 persons ($20.000 per/day); & another for up to 7 persons ($25.000). Equipped cabin for up to 6 persons ($30.000).


3B Rural Gastronomy - Estancia Candelario MansillaVilla O’Higgins, CH, Candelario Mansilla Sector, (0672) 431805. At the end of the crossing between El Chaltén, AR, & Candelario Mansilla, CH, (Section 3-B), the Estancia Candelario Mansilla offers dinner ($5.000) & breakfast ($3.000), prepared by the family.

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3C Café & Restaurant CampanarioVilla O’Higgins, CH, Lago O’Higgins 72, (0672) 431830, [email protected]. In this small cafe, you’ll have an authentic experience where you can interact w/people who helped build Chilean Patagonia & share a rich dish, prepared w/ingredients & recipes of the area.

3C Restaurant Entre PatagonesVilla O’Higgins, CH, Carretera Austral, near the north access of Villa O’Higgins, (0672) / (09) 431810 / 66215046, www.entrepatagones.cl, [email protected]. Warm, welcoming restaurant with authentic Patagonian dishes including stews, roasted meats, freshly caught local fish, & house specialty, spit roasted lamb (Asado). Great wines & both Chilean & imported beers. Breakfasts serving homemade breads fresh from the oven, local marmalades & eggs from the free-range chickens roaming the grounds.

3C Restaurant San GabrielVilla O’Higgins, CH, Lago O’Higgins 300, (0672) 431821, [email protected]. Delicious breakfasts, lunches & dinners, using regional products. Many of the vegetables & meats are from their farm, next to Mosco River. Great selection of regional & imported beers!


3C Almacén BrunyVilla O’Higgins, CH, Corner of Los Ñadis & Rio Bravo, (0672) 431805, [email protected]. A small supermarket that offers the opportunity to buy basic supplies such as cold cuts, cheese, bread, coffee, tea, yerba mate & a limited variety of vegetables & fruits.

3C Almacén CordilleraVilla O’Higgins, CH, Lago Salto 302, (0672) 431829, [email protected]. A small supermarket that offers the opportunity to buy basic supplies such as cold cuts, cheese, bread, coffee, tea, yerba mate & a limited variety of vegetables & fruits. Bus station inside store.

3C Almacén Don PepeVilla O’Higgins, CH, Lago O’Higgins, middle of the block between Los Ñadis & Rio Bravo, (0672) 431805, [email protected]. A small supermarket that offers the opportunity to buy basic supplies such as cold cuts, cheese, bread, coffee, tea, yerba mate & a limited variety of vegetables & fruits.

3C Almacén VentisqueroVilla O’Higgins, CH, Lago Christie, middle of the block between Rio Pascua & Rio Mayer, (0672) 431805, [email protected] small supermarket that offers the opportunity to buy basic supplies such as cold cuts, cheese, bread, coffee, tea, yerba mate & a limited variety of vegetables & fruits.

3C Provisions San GabrielVilla O’Higgins, CH, Lago O’Higgins 300, (0672) 431821, [email protected] Gabriel Provisions, located next to San Gabriel restaurant, offers food & other supplies for consumption in cabañas or for preparing a picnic or box lunch to take on your excursions in the area.

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3C Adolfo Segundo GuinaoVilla O’Higgins, CH, Río Bravo, Cnr Lago Christie 206, (0672) 431873, [email protected]. Adolfo Segundo is a local guide w/hiking excursions to Cerro Santiago w/up to 4 people ($10.000).

3C Entre Patagones ExcursionsVilla O’Higgins, CH, Carretera Austral, near the north access of Villa O’Higgins, (0672) / (09) 431810 / 66215046 www.entrepatagones.cl, [email protected]. Alonso Díaz (Coya), of Entre Patagones Cabañas & Restaurant, is also a long-time trekking guide in the area. Having grown up here, he knows the routes for climbing to glaciers, like the El Tigre Glacier. Check out details of this great hike in the article on the route of the El Tigre Glacier. Transportation included.

3C Robinson Crusoe - Deep Patagonia ExcursionsVilla O’Higgins, CH, Carretera Austral Km 1240, (02) / (02) / (0672) 3341503 / 3341504 / 431909, www.robinsoncrusoe.com, [email protected]. The Robinson Crusoe Lodge offers open & all-inclusive adventure programs. Their trekking programs include “Patagonian Corridor & Trekking”. Check out their website for details.

3C The Native Trout - Nelson HenríquezVilla O’Higgins, CH, Lago Cisnes 105, (0672) 431820, [email protected]. The Native Trout offers hiking tours of the El Mosco Sector. (1-4 persons) Food services included.

3C Tsonek ExpeditionsVilla O’Higgins, CH, Carretera Austral, 1.6 Km north of the entrance to Villa O’Higgins, (09) 78929695, www.tsonek.cl, [email protected]. Treks to popular O’Higgins trail destination, such as El Tigre Glacier trekking. Email for details.

3C Villa O’Higgins ExpeditionsVilla O’Higgins, CH, Camino Austral Km 1240, (0672) 431821 / 431822, www.villaohiggins.com, [email protected] O’Higgins Expeditions is a travel agency & tour operator whose philosophy is to support adventure, comfort & knowledge. Offer a wide range of hiking tours & expeditions, including day hikes, wildlife tours, mini-trekking on ice, intense trekking & camping & customized tours.


3C Robinson Crusoe - Deep Patagonia Kayak RentalsVilla O’Higgins, CH, Carretera Austral Km 1240, (02) / (02) / (0672) 3341503 / 3341504 / 431909, www.robinsoncrusoe.com, [email protected]. Daily kayak rentals. Arrange from reception area of lodge or their local Villa O’Higgins agency, Villa O’Higgins Expeditions.

3C Deep Patagonia Excursions on the L/M QuetruVilla O’Higgins, CH, Carretera Austral Km 1240, (02) / (02) / (0672) 3341503 / 3341504 / 431909, www.robinsoncrusoe.com, [email protected]. The Robinson Crusoe Lodge offers a Deep Patagonia full day boat excursion sailing O’Higgins Lake. “Villa O’Higgins & the Great Glacier” gets you to the heart of the action along the frontal wall of the O´Higgins Glacier on the edge of the Southern Patagonia Ice Field. You’ll travel aboard the L/M Quetru, equipped for up to 70 passengers. Check out the article describing the details for this amazing tour! ($65.000 from Candelario Mansilla / $80.000 from Puerto Bahamondes)

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The Native Trout - Nelson HenríquezVilla O’Higgins, CH, Lago Cisnes 105, (0672) 431820, [email protected]. Excursions include boat rides & food services during the tour. Groups of 1 - 4 persons.

3C Villa O’Higgins ExpeditionsVilla O’Higgins, CH, Camino Austral Km 1240, (0672) 431821 / 431822, [email protected]. Get up close to incredible vistas of the glaciers, mountains & lakes of the area. This local agency helps you to have truly incredible moments in these amazing natural surroundings. Wide range of tours & expeditions, including navigation to the glaciers & customized tours.


3C Deep Patagonia Excursions - Robinson CrusoeVilla O’Higgins, CH, Carretera Austral Km 1240, (02) / (02) / (0672), 3341503 / 3341504 / 431909, www.robinsoncrusoe.com, [email protected]. Overland programs include “From Mount Fitz Roy to Deep Patagonia” & “Patagonian Corridor & Trekking”. Open & all-inclusive adventure programs. Website has all the details.


3C Padre Ronchi Museum of Villa O’HigginsVilla O’Higgins, CH, North side of the Plaza of Arms, middle of the block. This village’s Museum is located in the former Catholic chapel, built in the late seventies by the Italian priest Fr. Antonio Ronchi. For the community, this church represents more than a building; it captures the spirit of Villa O’Higgins. Most of the community had a personal role in the building of this rustic little church, which used local materials, including lenga & coigüe shingles, donated by residents. Inside, the Museum houses a collection of antiques donated by the founding families of the zone, samples of local handicrafts & farm implements, articles & documents from Padre Ronchi’s private collection, & a historic photograph exhibit.

3C The Native Trout - Nelson HenríquezVilla O’Higgins, CH, Lago Cisnes 105, (0672) 431820, [email protected]. The Native Trout is a small business that focuses on fly-fishing activities, trekking, & horse-back riding; all with an emphasis on local culture and traditions. Says Nelson, “I help my clients feel comfortable & confident. I guide them in what they want; showing them what we really do, like the typical food of the Patagonia. I suggest places where they can have low-priced, tasty & healthy meals. When camping, I like to treat my clients to an Asado al Palo [spit roasted lamb], tortas fritas [fried breads], etc. We provide good service & affordable prices to every customer. In my business everybody is welcome & there are no favorites”. Excursions are normally for Groups of 1 - 4 persons.


3C Tsonek ExpeditionsVilla O’Higgins, CH, Carretera Austral, 1.6 Km north of Villa O’Higgins, (09) 78929695, www.tsonek.cl, [email protected]. If you enjoy Bird Watching, you are in for a great experience. Mauricio Melgarejo, the Director of Tsonek Expeditions, describes his team’s experience & approach, saying, “We are a group of nature lovers w/15 years of experience in the world of ecotourism. We specialize in ornithology, botany & entomology; the sciences relating to bird watching, observation of flora & fauna, and fly-fishing. We have a deep love & respect for our planet & the environment. Get to know the fascinating ecosystems that surround us. Breathe the freshest air on the planet. Discover the wonder in every step we take.” Groups of 2 – 4 persons, ages 8 & up. Costs between $15.000 - $25.000/person. Trips generally head out early, around 06h00 in order to capture the best hours of bird activity.

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3C Villa O’Higgins Expeditions & ExcursionsVilla O’Higgins, CH, Camino Austral Km 1240, (0672) 431821 / 431822, www.villaohiggins.com, [email protected]. Enjoy the adventure of exploring unique natural areas, discovering native vegetation & wildlife. Get up close to incredible vistas of the glaciers, mountains & lakes of the area for incredible moments in these amazing natural surroundings. Villa O’Higgins Expeditions offers a range of wildlife tours.


3C Adolfo Segundo GuinaoVilla O’Higgins, CH, Río Bravo 206, on the corner w/Lago Christie, (0672) 431873, [email protected]. Adolfo Segundo is a local horseback guide w/excursions to the Alta Vista Glacier ($15.000), Negro Lake ($15.000) & the Mosco Glacier ($15.000).

3C The Native Trout - Nelson HenríquezVilla O’Higgins, CH, Lago Cisnes 105, (0672) 431820, [email protected]. The Native Trout is a small business that offers horse-back riding for groups of 1 - 4 persons.

3C Villa O’Higgins ExpeditionsVilla O’Higgins, CH, Camino Austral Km 1240, (0672) 431821 / 431822, www.villaohiggins.com, [email protected]. Horseback riding for the day & multi-day trips. You can customize your tour, to make it your own!.


3C Adolfo Segundo GuinaoVilla O’Higgins, CH, Río Bravo 206, on the corner w/Lago Christie, (0672) 431873, [email protected]. Recreational fishing at Cisnes, Ciervo & Negro Lakes ($60.000/day).

3C Entre Patagones ExcursionsVilla O’Higgins, CH, Carretera Austral, near the north access of Villa O’Higgins, (0672) / (09) 431810 / 66215046, www.entrepatagones.cl, [email protected]. Alonso Díaz (Coya), of Entre Patagones Cabañas & Restaurant, is a long-time fly-fishing guide in the area. Having grown up here, he knows spectacular fishing spots. He has a cataraft & vehicle & gear for 2 fishermen.

3C The Native Trout - Nelson HenríquezVilla O’Higgins, CH, Lago Cisnes 105, (0672) 431820, [email protected]. The Native Trout is a small business that focuses on fly-fishing activities. Excursions include boat rides, tours of the El Mosco Sector, & food services during the tour. Groups of 1 - 4 persons.

3C Tsonek ExpeditionsVilla O’Higgins, CH, Carretera Austral, 1.6 Km north of the entrance to Villa O’Higgins, (09) 78929695, www.tsonek.cl, [email protected]. In addition to bird watching or hiking, Mauricio Melgarejo, the Director of Tsonek Expeditions, offers other tours such as fishing with an emphasis on entomology. Ask for details.

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3C Villa O’Higgins ExpeditionsVilla O’Higgins, CH, Camino Austral Km 1240, (0672) 431821 / 431822, www.villaohiggins.com, [email protected]. Villa O’Higgins Expeditions offers a wide range of tours & expeditions, including fishing tours.

THINGS TO DO – SPA & RELAXATION

3C El Mosco Mini Spa “Patagon”Villa O’Higgins, CH, Carretera Austral Km 1240, (0672) 431819, www.patagoniaelmosco.com, [email protected]. Imagine a “rustic” Patagonian-style spa; using woods & technologies from the local area, in order to produce fun, relaxing & rejuvenating experiences, HERE, near the end of the world! Curious? Well, head to El Mosco for some down time in their Finnish style sauna, a dry sauna, heated w/wood. It has capacity for up to 5 people ($15.000/group/session). They also offer a hot tub (Jacuzzi), made of native wood, filled w/3,500 liters of some of the purest water on the planet, & heated w/a wood-burning stove. It also has a system of filters, aeration, & Jacuzzi - basically, it rocks! Capacity up to 8 people ($30.000/Group/Session). Book your times in reception area of hostería.

3C Lodge Robinson CrusoeVilla O’Higgins, CH, Carretera Austral Km 1240, (0672) 431819, www.patagoniaelmosco.com, [email protected]. Guests of Robinson Crusoe can relax in the Jacuzzis of the lodge, enjoying the twilight of a Patagonian afternoon immersed in the views of the Nevada Mountain Range. It’s the perfect ending to a day on the trails!


3C Robinson Crusoe - Deep Patagonia Bike RentalsVilla O’Higgins, CH, Carretera Austral Km 1240, (02) / (02) / (0672) 3341503 / 3341504 / 431909, www.robinsoncrusoe.com, [email protected]. The Robinson Crusoe Lodge offers daily bike rentals. Arrange from their reception area in or at the offices of their local agency, Villa O’Higgins Expeditions. Check out the article about short bike circuits in the Villa O’Higgins Sector and you’ll be set to hit the Carretera Austral!

3C Villa O’Higgins ExpeditionsVilla O’Higgins, CH, Camino Austral Km 1240, (0672) 431821 / 431822, www.villaohiggins.com, [email protected]. Guided mountain biking programs promise truly incredible moments in amazing natural surroundings, & provide opportunities to share these experiences w/new friends you’ll make along the way.

NEW FINDS

CHAPTER 5

DWELL WITHIN GLACIERS, FIORDS, AND RIVERS.


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GUIDE TO AN UNDISCOVERED PATAGONIALIST OF ARTICLESCHAPTER 5: Stage 4 - Dwell within Glaciers, Fiords, and Rivers.

221 Dwell within Glaciers, Fiords and Rivers.

229 Wind through the valleys of gauchos.

231 Catch a Tiger by the Tail.

233 Encounter Hidden Treasures.

235 Sail turquoise waters through history.

237 Welcome to Caleta Tortel – Unique Patagonian Heritage.

241 “Orienteer” your way along the boardwalks.

244 Summit Cerro La Bandera in a snap!

246 A boat ride to the Dark Side.

247 Tour the Southern Patagonia Ice Field and the Jorge Montt Glacier.

249 Explore the Northern Patagonia Ice Field and the Steffen Glacier.

251 Visit Fundo Los Cipreses at Los Ñadis.

252 Prepare your own home-baked bread, Patagonia style.

254 On horseback, to El Saltón and Corte San Carlos.

256 Best practices for horse riding in Patagonia.

261 Summer in Patagonia means it’s time for an Asado al Palo.

263 How to prepare a Patagonian Asado al Palo.

267 You’re finally ready. Meet marvelous Mt. San Lorenzo!

268 Day hike to Cerro Mirador in the San Lorenzo Range.

269 Multisport adventure to the Calluqueo Glacier.

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CHAPTER 5: Stage 4 - Dwell within Glaciers, Fiords, and Rivers.

Dwell within Glaciers, Fiords and Rivers.

Overview of Stage 4 of the Undiscovered Patagonia Circuit.

The final Stage of the Undiscovered Patagonia Circuit (274.7 Km), traverses high mountain passes, hanging glaciers, the fiords of the Pacific, lush native forests, and raging rivers, making its way through some of the most incredible natural settings

on Earth. Although this entire Circuit offers amazing natural beauty, if you are a lover of the colors green and blue, you have definitely saved the best for last!

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CHAPTER 5 Stage 4 - Dwell within Glaciers, Fiords, and Rivers.

The setting for this final Stage of your adventure is the Capitan Prat Province of Chile, her eighth largest Province, but the most sparsely populated on the continent. That means large tracks of uninterrupted nature, in its purest form! This Stage of the Circuit is home to Chile’s most powerful river, the mighty Baker, portions of the Northern and Southern Patagonia Ice Fields, San Rafael Lagoon National Park, Bernardo O’Higgins National Park, Tamango National Reserve, Laguna Caiquenes and San Lorenzo Conservation Areas, the private Patagonia Park, historic monuments such as Caleta Tortel and the Isla de los Muertos and much more. Some of the dozens of major glaciers in the Province include El Tigre, El Mosco, Bernardo O’Higgins, Jorge Montt, Steffen, Calluqueo, San Lorenzo, Bravo, and Chico. There are also a number of important cultural sites in this Stage of the Circuit. Here, amongst such immense natural wonder, these places and their stories can easily fade into the setting. Seek them out!

In Stage 4 of the Undiscovered Patagonia Circuit, you will be traveling along some of the newest segments of the Carretera Austral, opened in the final years of the 20th century and the first years of the 21st. You may observe new teams of military personnel, arriving to continue their work with transversal roads that are slated to open up new areas, such as the

area leading to Glacier Jorge Montt and the Rio Mayer Border area Take time to explore this unique area; truly one of the last frontiers. Consider how amazing it is to be able to travel along roads through a geography marked by the whims of a not-so-ancient glacier cap, which has left behind an incredible legacy, filled to overflowing, with glaciers, fiords, and rivers.

This article describes the route and each of the five Sections of this final Stage. These Sections can be traveled by bike in a single day, assuming average abilities and climate conditions. Each ends at a place where it is possible to camp or lodge. For motorized vehicles, it is possible to travel through several Sections in a single day, in accordance with your plans and preferences.

When your adventure within the Undiscovered Patagonia Circuit ends and you return to your home, we ask you to leave a small gift for this place and her people. Please, share your stories, experiences and lessons from your Undiscovered Patagonia adventures via our website. It’s important that we, and other future travelers, have your perspective, so we can constantly improve our information and the quality of our services!


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Section 4A: Villa O'Higgins – Camp Pioneer (43.1 Km).

Taking the Carretera Austral north out of Villa O’Higgins, you’ll travel through a beautiful forested area before passing the road which heads to the Mayer River Frontier area. (This road is an interesting detour, if you have the time.) Crossing over the Van Schouwen Bridge, you’ll continue on, through the Lago Cisnes Valley, which offers great access to sandy beaches, fantastic fishing spots, and almost always, the chance to see black necked swan (cygnus melancoryphus), native to this area.

After passing through the Cisnes Lake Valley, you’ll begin to steadily climb through forested areas, passing the trail head for the El Tigre Glacier hike on the left side of the road. If you’d like, you can arrange for one of the guides in Villa O’Higgins to follow you to this point, and take the opportunity to hike this beautiful trail. This Section ends at a logging camp, which we call Camp Pioneer. You’ll note an area historically used for harvesting firewood and building materials. Although this area does not have formal infrastructure, there is a nice, flat area, where you can get well off the road and have access to plenty of fresh water.

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Section 4B: Camp Pioneer – Puerto Bravo Dock at Mitchell Fiord (55.2 Km).

The ride from the Antique Pioneer Camp to the Southern Shore of the Mitchell Fiord transverses through the mountains; however, in general, you will descend from the heights traveled in the previous Section, as you make your way to the Fiords. The scenery is magnificent, surrounding you with views of the mountains, jetting up from the valley floor. You’ll be immersed in ancient forests, and accompanied by rivers, waterfalls, and small lagoons, at every turn. The Section ends at the Puerto Bravo Dock, on the southern end of the Mitchell Fiord, where there is a small visitor shelter you can use to get out of the elements, while waiting for the free ferry, named for Padre Antonio Ronchi, which transports vehicles and passengers the length of the Fiord.

The boat leaves the southern Puerto Bravo Dock for Puerto Yungay at 11h00, 13h00, and 17h00. The boat leaves the northern

Puerto Yungay Dock for Puerto Bravo at 10h00, 12h00, and 15h00. In the off-season, the boat travels less often. Specific times can be confirmed with the Transportation Service in Cochrane (Departamento de Vialidad) or via the web at www.barcazas.cl.

A quick safety tip: Motorized traffic on the section of the Carretera Austral, between Villa O’Higgins, and the Puerto Bravo Dock, of the Mitchell Fiord, is mainly determined by the schedules of the ferry. Anticipate that for the hour before each ferry, it is much more likely you will have vehicles along the road, traveling in both directions; first, from the north, as ferry passengers begin their drive to the Villa, and next; from the south, as drivers attempt to make the ferry in time. These vehicles are often running late and in a hurry; not thinking of the potential to encounter other vehicles or bicycles! Drive defensively.

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Section 4C: Puerto Bravo Dock at Mitchell Fiord - Caleta Tortel (51.4 Km).

Crossing the Mitchell Fiord aboard the free, forty-five minute ferry, provides a wonderful break, with the opportunity to experience the fiords from the perspective of the water. Have your camera handy and take a moment to sign the boat’s guest book, enjoying the stories and comments left by other travelers. Arriving in Puerto Yungay, on the north shore of the Mitchell Fiord, you’ll notice a small kiosk, El Peregrino (The Pilgrim) to the left hand side. The owners, Don Francisco Velásquez and Doña Marta Inés Nahuel are a local couple, who are working hard to build their dream of offering a small hostel and café in this remote corner of the world. Marta is famous for her homemade baked goods and crafts and Francisco is an expert on the local history. It’s a great place to take a short break before continuing on your way. Trace Gale

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The Carretera Austral continues north, winding through the mountains, passing through the Laguna Caiquenes Conservation area and then down to the crossroads leading to Caleta Tortel, (left), or Cochrane, (right).

Until 2003, the only option for travelers seeking to reach Caleta Tortel from this point was to descend the final 23.6 Km of the route, on board a boat, which transported them to the docks of town. There was no road; only rough trails traveled by horses, livestock, and loggers. Despite the inconvenience, both locals and visitors enjoyed the unique experience of descending the Baker River from Puerto Vagabundo to the sea, astounded by the local flora and fauna, and the exceptional scenery around in the Bay. Arriving by boat allowed them to greet the charming small town made of cypress, from an organic perspective, in contact with the waters.

Today, the majority of visitors arrive to Caleta Tortel by the road, which ends at a parking area. Here, the historic town of Caleta Tortel is literally “perched” on the hillside below, with its homes, stores, and boardwalks, all constructed by hand and chain saw, from local cypress wood, facing out toward the fiords. Naturally, most development in Caleta Tortel is shifting to the parking lot above, where it is easier to transport materials and people.

Nevertheless, it’s still possible to embark on the historical river journey, which will provide you and your travel mates with an entirely different perspective on what Caleta Tortel “was” and “is”, and the significance of the Baker River for this tiny town. We highly recommend arranging the heritage boat trip with one of the guides listed in our Service Directory. They will transport your gear and luggage, and arrange the shuttle of your vehicle. When you arrive to town by vehicle and reach the parking area, it’s much harder to understand the environment through which you have traveled or put the town’s strange orientation in the proper context.

Patrick McGarry

NOTES

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Section 4D: Caleta Tortel - Los Ñadis Sector (80.7 Km).

After exploring Caleta Tortel and the surrounding Fiords, you’ll head northeast on the Carretera Austral. Beginning Section 4D, you’ll make a steady climb through the mountains, on your way towards its ending point, at a sector along the Ñadis and Barrancoso Rivers. As you pass over the Barrancoso River Bridge in this sector, you’ll note a side road to the left, with signage for several local camping areas.

Here, one of your final surprises has been waiting. You can visit one of the local farms along this country road, for a relaxing and rejuvenating visit, providing a perspective on the simple, laid-back lives of rural Patagonia. For example, a short 10 Km side trip along this road, rewards you with a visit to Fundo Los Cipreses. At this farm, they offer camping, a small sleeping and cooking shelter, activities like hiking and horseback rides, a quincho where you can arrange for a Patagonian Asado al Palo, and a rural kiosk, with fresh-baked breads, homemade jams and other “essentials” you might enjoy.

Pauline Symonds

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Section 4E: Los Ñadis Sector - Cochrane (44.3 Km).

You’re only 44.3 kilometers from where this whole adventure began! But, not so fast; we have one of the best treasures of the whole Undiscovered Patagonia Circuit to unveil in this final Section. After a steep initial climb leaving Los Ñadis sector, you’ll gradually wind down through farmland and native forests, alongside streams and rivers that pour down into lakes nearby. Approximately 39 kilometers into this Section, you’ll note a side road leading toward the right, with signage to Cerro San Lorenzo.

This incredible mountain has been visible to you during much of your trip; from Cochrane, Valley Chacabuco, the Mayer River sector, and for many kilometers traveling down National Route 40, Mount San Lorenzo, with its impressive 3,706 M peaks, has been in your sights. But, we’ve

been saving it for last. It is the 2nd highest peak in Patagonia and one of the most beautiful places along the border between Chile and Argentina. This mountain is very popular with expert mountaineers, who prepare for months and then wait in base camps (sometimes for weeks), hoping for a window of suitable weather that will permit them to summit.

Now you have the chance to see its beauty up close through a side trip to visit Glacier Calluqueo or the high mountain base camp at the San Lorenzo Farm. We suggest arranging as Asado here, with Don Luis Soto and his wife Lucy, as a final celebration before you leave us. And upon arrival in Cochrane, be sure and spend a few days relaxing and enjoying the small town atmosphere. You’ve earned it!

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Wind through the valleys of gauchos.

This ½ day touring circuit travels through amazing countryside along the road that will eventually connect Villa O’Higgins to Argentina, through

the Mayer River border crossing. The valley remains the exclusive turf of gauchos and Estancias, transporting you to another time.

• Activity Type: 4x4 or bike tour.• Sector: Road to Entrada Mayer• Starting Point: From Villa O’Higgins,

head north on the Carretera Austral. Just before the Van Schouwen Bridge over the Mayer River (7 Km), turn right on the side road, indicating the route to Las Margaritas Estancia.

• Ending Point: Villa O’Higgins• Considerations: Carry sufficient

fuel for the trip. Currently, you cannot cross to Argentina at the border, by vehicle. There is no bridge over Carrera River.

• Distance: 47 Km to Entrada Mayer Frontier Control Post; 7 more to Christie Lake. Round-trip 108 kilometers.

• Duration: 4 - 6 hours In vehicle, 2 days by bike.

• Seasonality: All Year, depending on road conditions

• Difficulty: Appropriate for all with a 4x4 vehicle or good biking skills.

The Route: This self-guided tour travels the entire length of the Mayer River Valley, ending at the Entrada Mayer Frontier Post, an area known as the Valley of Pioneers. Optionally, you can continue 7 Km more, along a nearby side road, which leads to Christie Lake. If you opt for this detour, be sure you have a 4x4 and off-road experience; you’ll need to cross the Pérez River and depending on the time of year, it can be pretty deep!

Early in your journey, you'll surely notice the wonderful hues of blue and green shining through crystalline waters, in the narrows of La Clara Lake. These unique hues are produced by the bright sands along the rocky bottom of the lake. A few hundred meters before the access gate to the Estancia las Margaritas, you'll notice a small rustic chapel set back amongst a clearing on one side of the road. This chapel was built with Canogas, an interesting architectural technique, commonly used in the early days

Trace Gale

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of the Region; trees were split lengthwise, hollowed out, and layered in an alternating pattern, to form a roof line. The chapel is one of Father Antonio Ronchi's community projects, built with the help of the settlers of Villa O’Higgins and the Mayer River. It is located at the edge a beautiful virgin lenga (nothofagus pumilio) forest, beside a small freshwater stream.

The road continues through the rockier hillsides of the valley, where you can spot the evidence of recent glaciation, (c. 12,000 years), within the striations on the rocks. Also, you will note slowly emerging layers of vegetation that will eventually form small forests. Along the route, you'll cross two bridges over the Mayer River, a short land bridge through a wetland area, and a remote airstrip, before arriving at the Frontier Border Post. Imagine how hard it must have been to travel through this rough and wild territory, before these kinds of infrastructure were in place!

The infrastructure at the Chilean Border Post seems almost to be “overkill”, considering only a few hundred people cross here each year. Yet, much is required to maintain a remote frontier in the middle of Patagonia. There are storehouses for hay, which is harvested in late summer and used all winter to feed the horses used for patrol trips. The border control officers at the Rio Mayer Post make regular visits to the isolated farms of the settlers who make their lives in the surrounding mountains. At least once a month, they try to visit each settler, sharing news, giving them information about weather conditions and bringing mail or messages from town.

Leaving the Frontier Post, you can return toward Villa O'Higgins or detour along the completed portion of the future road between Rio Mayer and the area around Cerro San Lorenzo, near the town of Cochrane. The Frontier Post officers can instruct you where to turn and advise you on the conditions and feasibility for crossing the Pérez River with your vehicle. Beyond the crossing, you'll follow the Pérez River west, passing several beautiful waterfalls and small lagoons, before the road ends (7 Km)

at an overlook, along the shore of Christie Lake. This is a great place to camp, and, for now, your turnaround point. Head back to Villa O’Higgins along the same roads, which will undoubtedly seem different, with the changing intensity of Patagonia sunlight during the day. As you head back, imagine the hard-working pioneers and adventurers who first crossed the borders here, charting the relief of the area’s geography, and opening paths across these rugged, wild peaks.

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Catch a Tiger by the Tail.

This 7 Km, round-trip, guided hiking excursion, climbs up to the El Tigre Glacier, along a trail which begins 24 Km north of Villa O’Higgins.

This hike allows you to develop first-hand understanding of the footprint, left by glaciers, as they move through a landscape.

• Activity Type: Hiking• Sector: Lake Cisnes Valley• Starting Point: Villa O’Higgins• Ending Point: Villa O’Higgins• Considerations: This route is not

well-marked. We recommend hiking this route with a guide, from Villa O’Higgins, who can direct you and interpret the natural history of the area, including the glacial tracks that are visible during the entire hike.

• Distance: 6 Km, out and back.• Duration: 7 hours• Seasonality: November to April• Difficulty: The trail is not technical,

but it is very steep the entire way, until you reach the top.

The Route: The trail head, marked with a sign, is along the Carretera Austral, 24 kilometers north of Villa O’Higgins. The hike begins by traversing upward, along a wide, steep trail. Although the ascent is a steep, constant slope, there are plenty of spots to rest and look out over the Lake Cisnes

Valley, with its beautiful landscapes. The trail becomes less clear as you reach the mid-mountain; however, the area is open and clean, and your guide should be very familiar with the route.

It takes around 2½ hours to reach the top, (1,000 M), where you be rewarded with views of the El Tigre Glacier and its turquoise lagoon. Here, the hike levels off. As you get closer to the glacier, you will see the striations, or stripes, that have formed on the rock walls on one side of the narrow valley, marking the direction that the glacier’s ice followed, as it descended along its course.

Throughout this hike, there are great photo opportunities, wonderful landscapes, and plenty of places for resting. When you feel it is time to return, you can go back using the same trail. The going is faster, as you'll be descending the entire route, accompanied by spectacular 360° views of the valley and memories of the ice, hidden above.

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During your time in this Stage of the Undiscovered Patagonia Circuit, you will see many geographical features; which, have been formed by glaciation; especially on the higher areas of the mountains, where the granite is scared with gigantic stretch marks, left by the ice. You can also spot random boulders and rocks, in the middle of fields or forests, called erratics; left behind during the ice’s retreat after the last glacial period.

As you descend down into the Valley, notice the signs of the changes that have occurred in this ecosystem over the previous 12,000 years. The trail you used for reaching the El Tigre Glacier was formed by the ice as it slowly carved its route across the hillside. As you descend, leaving the ice, you will notice a gradual change from bare rocks to rocks covered by lichen and moss. Next, you'll reach areas with tiny flowers, and then, stunted lenga (nothofagus pumilio) trees, which will get bigger as you continue. By the time you reach the valley, you will be surrounded by enormous coigües, (nothofagus dombeyi), thick forest undergrowth, ferns, and mosses. Always, the presence of water is nearby, carrying rich glacial sediments that provide the nutrients and base for biodiversity of the wetlands.

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Encounter Hidden Treasures.

The area surrounding the Caiquenes Lagoon is a public Nature Reserve and Conservation Area, managed by the AUMEN Foundation, which puts

heavy emphasis on scientific research. Located on the road between Puerto Yungay and Caleta Tortel, this is a landscape that merits a closer look!

• Activity Type: Observation Walk• Sector: Laguna Caiquenes, along the

road from Puerto Yungay• Starting Point: Puerto Yungay or

Caleta Tortel• Ending Point: Puerto Yungay or

Caleta Tortel• Considerations: Aumen has great

information and guides for the Flora and Fauna of the Conservation Area on their website. It is important to let them know that you visited, so that they can monitor public interest. There are no marked paths in the reserve and a large part of the area consists of wetlands, and therefore is very fragile. It is extremely important that you tread lightly in this Conservation Area; leaving a minimal impact on nature, hopefully, not even a trace. Please, limit your visit to the places, indicated here, if you are not accompanied by a guide who works with the Conservation Area.

• Distance: 1 Km walk

• Duration: 1 – 3 Hours• Seasonality: September to May• Difficulty: Apt for all.

Encountering Treasures: Leaving Puerto Yungay, the route climbs the mountain, to its pass. After 11.5 Km, you will cross a bridge, marking the southern limit of the Reserve. This is an excellent place to spot huemules (hippocamelus bisulcus), right from the road. Another 1.4 Km, at the top of the pass, there are wonderful views of the Valley in both directions. On a clear day, you can see to the Mitchell Fiord to the south, and the Valley of the Baker River to the north.

This is another good place to stop. Here, you can leave your vehicle, and continue on foot for around 200 M, where you will find an observation tower, on the east of the road. This tower can accommodate up to 4 people, and offers the possibility to spot huemules (hippocamelus bisulcus),

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Andean condors (vultur gryphus), and diverse waterfowl. Vegetation, in the wetlands around the lakes, is composed of a mix of astelia (astelia pumilia), donatia moss (donatia fascicularis), mirto (myrteola nummularia), murtilla (empetrum rubrum), and flowering junco grass (juncul grandiflorus). Surrounding these areas you will find coigüe (nothofagus dombeyi) forests, in the valley, and a stunted ñire (nothofagus antarcticus) forest, high above. These habitats are home for approximately 23 species of birds, mainly forest and lake birds, which can be observed from the tower, the road or, if you are with a guide, by advancing some steps into the forest.

North of the pass, and west of the road, there are three connected lakes. The marshy conditions, mix of wetland plants, and abundant forest streams, are ideal for amphibian life. At least four uncommon species can be found here; the Puerto Edén frog (bufo variegatus), the southern patted frog (alsodes australis), the white lagoon creeper (atelognathus antartantica), and the speckled frog (batrachyla antartandica). They are not easy to spot, and surprisingly, the strategic position is right next to the road, in the ditches and drainages. If you see them, avoid touching them. Listening, is another fun way to observe the amphibians. If you

visit at night, it is very easy: just park, turn off the engine, and walk along the road. You will hear a variety of interesting songs and sounds.

The Bosque Encantado, (Enchanted Forest) Sector is a very fragile forest, home to diverse varieties of fungus and moss. You’ll especially want to help conserve these important plants, as they absorb tremendous amounts of carbon, helping to offset the impacts of travel and other human energy use. There are more than 75 species in total, and more than 30 are endemic of Southern Chile. To see some, you can explore the area between the road and the north end of the lake, maintaining care not to damage the vegetation. The use of magnifying glasses in this forest provides a gateway into another world filled with shapes and colors, very difficult to see without the glass’s help.

From the Bosque Encantado, head a bit further down the road and you will pass a beautiful stream, forming the northern limit of the Conservation Area. From here, it’s 18 Km to the crossroads, and the route to Caleta Tortel.

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Sail turquoise waters through history.

There were no roads to Caleta Tortel until 2003. Thus, settlers relied on the mighty Baker River to arrive. Recreate this historic tradition, by traveling the final kilometers to Caleta Tortel, aboard a wooden,

locally-crafted launch. The luxury of having your luggage transported to the dock, closest to your lodging, is a welcome bonus!

The tiny coastal town of Caleta Tortel has been isolated from mainland Chile for almost its entire history. The Baker River has been its main connection to the rest of the Aysén Region and the country. This River has played a central role in the settlement of Caleta Tortel, from initial 19th century explorations, to the present day.

Why would settlers choose to establish their entire pueblo built on wooden walkways, hanging out over the fiords? Because, the Baker River was their first Carretera Austral. Until 2003, there were no roads connecting this the Caleta with the inland. Nevertheless, for almost 100 years, development and survival has depended on efficient transportation. Caleta Tortel exists for a single, special, slow-to-decay wood, harvested from the ciprés of the Guaitecas (pilgerodendron uviferum), native to this sector of the Fiords. This wood has been used throughout recent history in Patagonia; for artwork, for construction; and especially; for the posts supporting thousands of kilometers of fencing, telephone poles, and power lines, throughout the Regions of Aysén and Magallanes. These posts were cut from forests throughout this area and

transported by oxen or floated down the Baker River, to wait on the docks of the Caleta. Later, they were transferred through the fiords, aboard military barges and hand-crafted, wooden boats, built by local residents.

As loads piled up, awaiting transfer, owners wanted to be close by. This wood was valuable, and it was hard to differentiate between one post and another! Thus, a town began to slowly emerge, perched high above the Caleta, in position to keep a close eye on precious inventories, amassing on the docks below. The only way to facilitate movement through the steep, marshy terrain, was through wooden walkways, suspended along the mountainside.

Now, things are changing in Caleta Tortel. The Carretera Austral extends to the Caleta’s edge, ending in a parking lot. This new access has replaced the need for much of the waterway transportation, and the town is adjusting to new ways of life. Increasingly, families are investing in vehicles; turning their attention beyond the fiords, boardwalks, and STAIRS, to the road and growing infrastructure above. When you visit Caleta Tortel, you will encounter this unique culture in transition, and be able to

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understand why they made the choice to position their town so strangely.

We suggest going a step further ; arriving to Caleta Tortel aboard a wooden launch, in much the same way that you would have arrived, a few decades back. This cultural experience, will provide an intimate connection with the heritage of the Caleta. Several local captains offer this excursion; you’ll park your car at one of the docks before town and load your luggage, or bikes, aboard. The guide will arrange to bring your car around to the lot above town; secure and waiting, when you are ready to leave.

• Activity Type: Heritage River Tour• Sector: Rio Baker, between Puerto

Vagabundo and Caleta Tortel• Starting Point 1 - Puerto

Vagabundo: 1.6 Km north of the junction between Puerto Yungay and Caleta Tortel. 23.6 Km north of Caleta Tortel. From here, the cruise lasts 3 - 4 hours.

• Starting Point 2 - Sector La Cabaña: 1 Km south of the junction between Puerto Yungay and Caleta Tortel. 19.5 Km north of Caleta Tortel. 400 meters west of the road. From here, the cruise lasts 3 - 4 ½ hours.

• Starting Point 3 - Caleta Tortel’s Airstrip: 1 Km north of Caleta Tortel. Take the side road to the right, just before reaching the final slope and entrance to the parking area. From here, the trip lasts 1 - 2 hours.

• Ending Point: The dock in Caleta Tortel, closest to your Lodging.

• Considerations: Coordinate your plans ahead of time, to confirm availability and timing, with one of the captains in the Service Directory.

• Distance: On the waterways, the distances are approximate, as follows: from Puerto Vagabundo = 42 Km; from Sector La Cabaña = 38 Km; from the Airstrip = 15 Km.

• Duration: See Starting Point Information listed above. These times are approximations and depend on river and weather conditions.

• Seasonality: Year Round

• Difficulty: An unforgettable experience for everyone.

The Circuit: Moving to the rhythm of the River helps frame Caleta Tortel’s development and culture. Life here is closely related to the weather, the seasons, and the natural rhythm of the environment. On the cruise, you can spot a variety of birds, including the ruddy-headed goose (chloephaga rubidiceps), yellow-billed teal (anas flavirostris), Andean condor (vultur gryphus), and other coastal and wetland species. You will also observe the River’s interaction with the area, through the erosion of the shore, and the formation of islands and beaches. Entering the Fiord, you will observe salinity, and water color changes, as well as the formation of large beaches.

The route normally includes a visit to the Isla de los Muertos, (Island of the Dead), and the Bajo Pisagua - Punta Casas, area; both legendary within the history of Caleta Tortel. Ask your guide to explain!

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Welcome to Caleta Tortel – Unique Patagonian Heritage.

With its quirky architecture and picturesque boardwalks, Caleta Tortel is sure to be one of the milestones of your journey through

Undiscovered Patagonia. Caleta Tortel is a magical village, which almost hangs from the slopes of the mountains rising around it.

Leave you vehicle above and head down the stairs. There are more than 15 Km of pedestrian boardwalks and stairways, winding their way through the maze of houses and shops in Caleta Tortel, all made from native wood, from the ciprés (cypress) de las Guaitecas (pilgerodendron uviferum). Its incredibly sweet scent, rich aesthetic beauty, and special durability, have all contributed to the demand for native cypress harvesting and export; the basis of the local economy in Caleta Tortel. In fact, it is perhaps the only coastal town in the fiords of Patagonia, that does not base it’s livelihood on fishing.

Caleta Tortel is located 462 kilometers southwest of the city of Coyhaique, and 2,237 kilometers south of Santiago, in the lush, ancient forests, between the Northern and Southern Patagonia Ice Fields. The village

began to develop in 1955, when pioneers migrated to the area in search of new farming and fishing opportunities. Instead, they found a more profitable business; the extraction of Guaitecas Cypress timber, exported south to the region of Magallanes where it was used for telegraph poles and fence posts. The Chilean Navy moved the timber between the areas; establishing the town of Caleta Tortel, which is named for Naval Officer Juan José Tortel, (1763-1842).

Caleta Tortel is enveloped in a heavy wrapping of flora; generally sprinkled with forested areas, comprised of ciprés of the Guaitecas (pilgerodendron uviferum), coigüe (nothofagus dombeyi), notro (embothrium coccineum) and a mix of short leafed mañío (saxegothaea conspicua) and needle Leaf mañío (podocarpus nubigenus). Add in a LOT of small, and not so small, ferns,

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mosses, lichens, and forest undergrowth, and you have all the ingredients needed, to generate the lush natural environment you will encounter along the boardwalks and trails of Tortel, filling your sight with every hue of green imaginable.

SO, here’s a big question...How do they maintain all of those kilometers of wooden walkways and stairs? Well, it’s a year-round, full time effort to be sure. As with anything else, the Municipality forms contracts with companies; however, many local residents work for these firms, in the construction and care of the boardwalks. And, from time to time, they have volunteer help, from places you might never imagine! For example, in 2000 and 2001, both Prince William and Kate Middleton, spent time in Caleta Tortel, as part of their gap-year experiences, working alongside Tortelinos, to repair and expand, this unique heritage. If your interested in pitching in during you’re trip, stop by the Municipality in the center of town and ask for a paintbrush. JUST KIDDING.

Prior to 2003, when Caleta Tortel was finally connected with the Carretera Austral, the only option for accessing town from the

interior of the country was to travel by boat. Traditionally, wooden ferries floated the lower sections of the Baker River, leaving from a section called Puerto Vagabundo, and sailing down river into the fiords, rounding the inlet to reach the docks of Caleta Tortel.

Things to do:

Explore the boardwalks: At a minimum, you should walk the entire length once. You’ll travel through the waterfront area of town, providing opportunities to immerse yourself in the beautiful surroundings

Bernardo O'Higgins National Park: This is territory dominated by the mysterious, still largely uncharted, Southern Patagonia Ice Field. The park begins in the Aysén Region and extends into the Magallanes Region, spanning 3.524.648 hectares, to be precise. It is of great scientific interest, due to the diversity of its wildlife, its glaciers and its indigenous settlements. One of the last Kawéskar communities lives along the border of these protected lands.

Baker River: The most powerful river in Chile, and one of the most beautiful in the world. You can navigate the Baker River and arrive to the Caleta by boat. The historic ½ day trip travels through landscapes, rich in flora and fauna, and puts you right in the middle of this wonderful River, with its wide range of recreational opportunities, including kayaking, fly-fishing, wildlife observation, and rafting.

Steffen Glacier: Located in San Rafael Lagoon National Park, on the western edge of the Northern Patagonia Ice Field. Possibilities include a 2½ hour boat trip, combined with a 2 hour hike through the forested edge of the Park.

Katalalixar National Reserve: This National Reserve, with an area of 624,500 hectares, is one of the most pristine wilderness areas left in the world, filled with scrub forests, composed of the Chiloe coigüe (nothofagus nitida), short leafed mañío (saxegothaea conspicua), needle leaf mañío (podocarpus nubigenus), and tepú (tepualia stipularis). Within the Reserve,

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you will find a CONAF (National Forest Corporation) shelter for camping. Check with Noel Vidal, captain of the Paz Austral, who offers this excursion. He transports sea kayaks aboard, providing an added twist.

Pascua River: Originating on the eastern side of O'Higgins Lake, this river eventually empties into the Calen Fiord, where you can access Quetru Lake and the Jorge Montt Glacier. The sector is surrounded by lush vegetation, providing the perfect surroundings for back-country water and land excursions. Local farmers provide rustic accommodations and services on an informal basis, including the chance to try local flavors, and traditional recipes for jams, and cheeses. You can access this sector by boat from Caleta Tortel, during a trip, which last approximately 5 hours.

Quetru Lake: Quetru Lake is known for its calm waters, sheltered from the wind, and very good recreational trout fishing. It has steep banks, and dense native forests, comprised of ciprés of the Guaitecas (pilgerodendrum uviferum) and Magellan coigüe (nothofagus betuloides), making access a challenge. Local farmers offer informal accommodations in their homes and traditional Patagonian Asados, featuring lamb, beef, and fresh salmon. The sector offers boating, sport fishing, horseback riding, hiking, wildlife observation, and photography.

Jorge Montt Glacier: This Glacier descends into the fiords from the Southern Ice Field, the largest ice mass in the southern hemisphere, excluding Antarctica. It comprises more than 14,000 Km2 and measures 350 Km in length. The Jorge Montt Glacier is part of Bernardo O'Higgins National Park. This coast, in this sector, has been inhabited by nomadic peoples, called Kawéskar, for more than 6,000 years. While only small populations of Kawéskar descendants remain, near the tiny village of Puerto Eden, in the Magallanes Region, they maintain much of their people’s traditional ways of life. You can visit the Jorge Montt Glacier by boat, leaving from Caleta Tortel. Once there, you can enjoy kayaking, trekking, and camping; observe the wildlife

and the ice; and of course, practice your photography.

Island of the Dead: Located on the banks of the Baker River, this historic site was declared a National Monument in 2001. The Island houses a hidden graveyard; shrouded in mystery. According to legend, the 100+ graves on the Island were all established at roughly the same time, during the winter of 1906, indicating some sort of terrible tragedy; which, to this day, remains a secret. It is accessible from Caleta Tortel through short 2 – 3 hour navigation circuits.

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“Orienteer” your way along the boardwalks.

This fun game provides you with an interesting morning or afternoon of sightseeing in Caleta Tortel. You’ll visit 18 different local places of interest,

leading you along the boardwalks of town, in a geographical scavenger hunt.

Walking through the boardwalks and stairways of Caleta Tortel is the best way to understand this small town, its people, and how they managed to develop their unique culture, and style. This activity is provides some direction for exploring the walkways and natural surroundings of Caleta Tortel. It is very similar to the sport known as Orienteering, or, Geo-caching; which consists of completing a certain route, individually or in groups, looking for places of particular interest, by using geographic orientation tools, such as maps, or a GPS device.

In this particular circuit, there are 18 identified places (buildings, natural areas, cultural spots, and other curiosities). You set your rules; choose to visit just some of the recommended spots, or cover the whole circuit. The challenge is to learn more about each particular place you will visit. The answers will be evident in some spots. In others, you will have to be more observant. We encourage you to look around, to read,

to talk with locals, to ask questions, etc, in order to get your answer.

• Activity Type: Exploring, using clues and GPS orientation.

• Sector: Caleta Tortel• Starting Point: Any place in Tortel.• Ending Point: Any place in Tortel.• Considerations: The circuit follows

the boardwalks and public trails. You’ll need access to a GPS, or map.

• Distance: Up to 7 Km• Duration: 1 – 4 hours.• Seasonality: Year Round• Difficulty: Great for families!

The Game: Begin anywhere along the boardwalks in Caleta Tortel. Choose one of the challenges below, and using your GPS, or a map, find the place. Work together to try and answer the questions. You'll need to look around for clues, ask a passerby, and pay attention!

Here are some fun twists you can

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incorporate to make your own version of the Orienteering game:

• Take pictures of each place and post them on the Undiscovered Patagonia website.

• Buy a sample of local wooden handicrafts somewhere along the way.

• Count the number of stairs you walk.• Feel the sea with your hands.• Spot the highest walkway in town.• Count or try to identify the different

birds you see along the way. A fun way to finish the game is to hike the Las Bandera Trail, which takes you way up to the top of the mountain behind town, providing a new perspective on the sector, with great aerial views. If you decide to take this hike, you should plan things, so that you have at least 3 hours of daylight, some water, and snacks. Bring a small backpack for extra layers of clothing and dress for Patagonia weather. You can adjust the circuit and the physical demands to for your group’s capacities.

The Challenges:

Challenge #1: Why is Father Antonio Ronchi such a popular character in Caleta Tortel? What did Father Ronchi call

himself? Hint: Look for the monument carved in wood at these coordinates: LAT: S 47°48'03''& LON: W073°32'11''.

Challenge #2: What is the most important tree for the people living in Caleta Tortel? Hint: Look for the dock and sign, with Caleta Tortel’s historical description, at these coordinates: LAT: S 47°48'14'' & LON: W073°32'13''.

Challenge #3: What was the main transportation for the Kawéskar and, how many tiles are there on the roof of the “Plaza”? Hint: Look for the Kawéskar sculpture and Plaza Kawéskar at these coordinates: LAT: S 47°48'14'' & LON: W073°32'18''.

Challenge #4: What does ECA stand for? Hint: Look for the ECA grocery store at these coordinates: LAT: S47°48'13'' & LON: W073°32'17''.

Challenge #5: Who built this beached barge? Hint: Look for the name on the remains of a typical barge, in the sand at these coordinates: LAT: S47°48'13'' & LON: W073°32'19''.

Challenge #6: Can you identify at least 5 different plants or trees? Hint: Look for the boardwalk sector with abundant vegetation and flora, at these coordinates: LAT: S47°48'13'' & LON: W073°32'19''. (and bring a book on flora!)

Challenge #7: How many steps lead to the antennae area? Hint: Look for the boardwalk junction and the long stairway leading straight up, at these coordinates: LAT: S47°48'14'' & LON: W073°32'21''.

Challenge #8: What is the purpose of so many antennae, and, can you spot the Isla de los Muertos and Rio Baker’s mouth? Hint: Look for the overlook and mossy area, near the antennae, at these coordinates: LAT: S47°48'11'' & LON: W073°32'27''. From here, you can discover the answers to the antennae mystery and spot the Island of the Dead. It’s the most distant island in the same sector as the mouth of the Baker River.

Challenge #9: Can you spot a tiny

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carnivorous plant, named the Violetilla of the Marshes, (Drosera Uniflora)? Hint: Look close to the ground for red plants with tiny teeth, near the boardwalk sector, with abundant vegetation, at these coordinates: LAT: S47°48'14'' & LON: W073°32'20''.

Challenge #10: What does CIEP stand for and why are they in Caleta Tortel? Hint: Look for the CIEP Laboratory, at these coordinates: LAT: S47°48'13'' & LON: W073°32'19''. Stop in and ask about their research!

Challenge #11: Who were some of the original families in Caleta Tortel, to make a living out of cypress? Hint: Look for the Square commemorating important families, for the cypress industry, at these coordinates: LAT: S47°48'18'' & LON: W073°32'26''.

Challenge #12: In this house, clothes and blankets are made from local materials. Can you identify the materials? Also, there is another thing being made nearby, that uses local materials. Can you identify this item? Hint: Look for the wooden house, at these coordinates: LAT: S47°48'18'' & LON: W073°32'25''.

Challenge #13: A canoga is a hollowed out tree trunk cut lengthwise. In the early days of Patagonia, roofs were built by overlapping conogas. Can you find an example of Canogas in Caleta Tortel? Hint: Look for the old house, at these coordinates: LAT: S47°48'16'' & LON: W073°32'48''.

Challenge #14: Can you identify what makes the ground in this area, so moist? Hint: Look for the end of the Junquillo Sector walkway, at these coordinates: LAT: S47°48'11'' & LON: W073°32'52''.

Challenge #15: A ciprés of the Guaitecas (cypress) tree can reach a maximal height of more than 20 meters; and, in some exceptional cases, even as tall as 40 meters, with a diameter of approximately one meter. The Guaitecas Cypress is currently a protected species, and as a result, it is illegal to cut down healthy cypresses. The cypresses obtained in Caleta Tortel are recycled. Harvesters only cut cypress that are damaged and dead, from the fires that

burned through this area many decades ago. How many cypress trees can you observe, in the sector of the coordinates: LAT: S47°48'06'' & LON: W073°32'51''? Also, what other species of flora can live in the same area as cypresses?

Challenge #16: Can you estimate the height of Cerro La Bandera? Hint: Walk to the summit, located at these coordinates: LAT: S47°47'38''& LON: W73°32'13", and take an altitude reading, on your GPS.

Challenge #17: How many houses are there in Caleta Tortel? Hint: You can count the houses in Caleta Tortel from the Cerro la Bandera overlook, at these coordinates: LAT: S47°47'42'' & LON: W073°32'14''.

Challenge #18: Can you identify some of the community services and agencies, present in Caleta Tortel? Hint: Look around you, at the buildings and signs, at these coordinates: LAT: S47°47'45'' & LON: S47°47'45''.

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Summit Cerro La Bandera in a snap!

This is a beautiful, short, self-guided hike, that leads you high above Caleta Tortel, to the top of Cerro La Bandera, offering

great views of the Baker River, and Tortel Bay.

• Activity Type: Hiking• Sector: Cerro La Bandera• Starting Point: You can access this

trail from the boardwalks, 200 meters from the school, along the walkway; which, leads to the airstrip, or at the Junquillos Sector, on the far end of town, where the municipal walkway ends.

• Ending Point: The trail descends back to the boardwalk at the opposite end of town from where you started. You can make your way back along the boardwalks to your start point.

• Considerations: In the spring, the higher altitudes of Cerro La Bandera become a giant “sponge” absorbing tremendous amount of water, and providing a natural filtering system. Walking conditions, during these times, are “bog like”. Some of the bed & breakfasts in town have rubber boots

for guests to borrow. We suggest their use during this time of year.

• Distance: 2 Km, 600 M.• Duration: 2 – 3 hours• Seasonality: Year-round, if you have

rubber boots!• Difficulty: Suitable for all hikers. The Circuit: After a while on the boardwalks of Caleta Tortel, the beauty of the natural environment may have you yearning to be in closer contact. This hike is the perfect mix of both. It takes visitors past the main areas of town, and then sends them way above, to the top of Cerro La Bandera, along a well-marked trail that provides breathtaking panoramas, and fascinating up-close views, of the unique flora. The circuit is circular, which is why, it can be started at any point in Caleta Tortel, and walked in either direction. We recommend starting in the area near the school and the parking lot, and hiking in a clockwise manner, because the trail head is easier to encounter. You’ll walk along the boardwalk leading to the airstrip, and approximately 200 meters after the school, you will find the signage indicating the trail which heads up to the left. It's well marked.

The trail begins and ends, with sections of raised wooden planks, which help you navigate the particularly boggy areas. Once you reach the top, the area becomes rocky and flat, making it easier to navigate via trails on the ground. Arrows mark the route, and several different overlooks, from which you can spot the Baker River Delta, lots of islands and canals, the Pisagua waterfall and the airstrip, by the river. Once you complete the trail portion, you will descend back to the boardwalk, on the opposite side of town from where you began. Complete your circuit, returning along the walkways, until

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reaching your starting point.

The route travels through very humid peat areas, where there are enormous ferns, and plants with giant, umbrella-type leaves, called nalca, or pangue, (gunnera tinctoria). There are also cypress forests, and moss fields. You will see lots of bird life and hear tiny frogs croaking. There are four frog species found in the area: Puerto Edén frog (bufo variegatus), southern patted frog (alsodes australis), white lagoon creeper (atelognathus antartantica), and the speckled frog (batrachyla antartandica). These little critters are not easy to spot, but if you should be lucky enough to see one, please avoid touching them.

An attentive eye can spot small carnivorous plants called violetillas of the marshes (drosera uniflora), the bright red flowers of the coicopihue (philesia magellanica), which are very similar in shape to the national flower of Chile, the copihue (lapageria rosea), and a wide variety of lichens, mosses, and small fosforitos (senecio candicans),

In the Junquillo Sector, you'll pass through a second-growth forest of ciprés of the Guaitecas (pilgerodendron uviferum), where you might be lucky enough to spot a unique variety of night butterflies. Considering the amazing flora, fauna and sightseeing this area offers, we suggest that you take binoculars and maybe even a magnifying glass, if you

can find one, and definitely, a flora-fauna field guide.

Practical tips: Dress properly for rainy weather. Please, do not throw your garbage in the cans located at the overlooks, as it can blow away, or be eaten by wild animals. Carry your garbage down with you and dispose of it, in the receptacles in town.

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A boat ride to the Dark Side.

Wish to see a little more of Caleta Tortel than the boardwalks? This short, 2 hour, boat excursion, explores one of the “darker” moments in the history of the Sector.

• Activity Type: Boat Tour with a short walk through the forest along boardwalks.

• Sector: Rio Baker and Caleta Tortel• Starting Point: Caleta Tortel Docks• Ending Point: Caleta Tortel Docks• Considerations: Make reservations

in advance with one of the captains listed in the Service Directory.

• Distance: 10 Km• Duration: 2 hours.• Seasonality: Year round.• Difficulty: Easy. Great for everyone. The Route: The Isla de los Muertos, (Island of the Dead), is a National Historic Monument, that marks the graves of approximately 120 workers of the Explotadora del Baker logging company, who died under a “cloud of controversy”, in 1906. Many believe the workers were victims of foul play, on the part of the

company; however, the official cause of death has never been determined. There are several captains in Caleta Tortel offering this trip, aboard traditional wooden boats built in the pueblo, from native ciprés of the Guaitecas (pilgerodendron uviferum). Normally, these boats take groups of up to 10 people to visit this tiny island, south of the Tortel’s Bay.

During your visit, you’ll walk through a dense forest of cypress, along a raised boardwalk, which leads to the cemetery, hidden in a dense undergrowth of ferns, nalca, (gunnera tinctoria), and other native flora. You will find about 120 graves, marked with carved crosses of ancient cypress and the names and dates of the deceased. No one knows who is responsible for the burials, markers, or carvings; this adds yet another layer to the dark mystery, shrouding the Isle. Normally, after visiting the Island, the excursion makes a side trip to the mouth of the Baker River, where you’ll get an excellent view of the Pisagua waterfall, before, returning to the docks in Caleta Tortel.

Photography buffs will want to bring all your lenses, especially zooms, to document your experience, and capture the words carved by mysterious, unknown persons, so many years ago. The crosses don’t yield the answers to the secrets of this island, but they do document the brevity of the lives, of several of the workers, who lived only 15 brief years.

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Tour the Southern Patagonia Ice Field and the Jorge Montt Glacier.

The Jorge Montt Glacier is one of the fastest-receding glaciers in the world, documented at a rate of about 1 Km per year. This one or two

day trip involves a boat tour and options to visit a remote farm settled during the days of the pioneers of the Zone. During the trip you will

have close up views of the icebergs floating in the drainage area.

Caleta Tortel is the gateway to access many of the natural attractions of the Northern and Southern Patagonia Ice Fields, through the San Rafael Lagoon, and Bernard O’Higgins, National Parks. This one or two day trip visits Glacier Jorge Montt, in the Southern Patagonia Ice Fields. A bit of trivia: the Jorge Montt Glacier made news recently, when regional authorities discovered thieves, removing ice from the glacier, to sell in upscale restaurants and bars, in the northern part of Chile!

• Activity Type: Navigation and optional visit to a remote farm.

• Sector: Bernardo O’Higgins National Park

• Starting Point: Docks, Caleta Tortel• Ending Point: Dock, Caleta Tortel• Considerations: Proximity of

access is determined by the boat

captains; foul weather will prevent a safe passage to the glacier. In order to increase odds of having a successful visit, allow at least two days in your itinerary, to accommodate bad weather cancellations. You can reserve your trip through one of the captains listed in the Service Directory.

• Distance: approximately 100 Km in boat, round trip.

• Duration: 12 - 36 hrs.• Seasonality: November - April• Difficulty: Trip is suitable for all.

The Excursion: The boat trip through the fiords surrounding Caleta Tortel, takes 3 to 4 hours, each way. You are likely to spot a variety of bird life and sea mammals. As you approach the bay, you will enter a surreal land of icebergs and the isolated area where


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the Landeros rural farm is located. As you arrive at the beach, it is likely that you will be met by Don Iryan Landeros and his wife Delia Sepuveda, who still live in their farm on the edge of Bernardo O’Higgins National Park, where they raise a small herd of cattle. Up to 7 guests are welcome to stay with them, in their rural hospedaje, overlooking the Fiords.

Here, you can explore the farm, looking for all of the best overlooks for the glacier. You can pitch in with the daily chores, learn to prepare homemade breads and enjoy other local meals cooked by Delia, or simply disconnect and immerse yourself in the surreal landscapes.

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Explore the Northern Patagonia Ice Field and the Steffen Glacier.

Caleta Tortel is the gateway to many natural attractions within the Northern Ice Field and Laguna San Rafael Lagoon National Park. This trip explores

the Steffen Glacier Valley, located at the southern corner of the park.

The Northern Patagonian Ice Field covers an area of 4,200 Km², and is completely protected, within the San Rafael Lagoon National Park, in the Aysén Region of Chile. Its largest section of ice is 120 Km wide, and 70 Km long! The Park is home to some of the Region's most important mountain peaks and glaciers, like Mount San Valentín, the highest peak of Patagonia, and the Steffen, Exploradores, Nef, Leones, Solar, and San Rafael Lagoon Glaciers. From Caleta Tortel, you can access the southernmost corner of this vast expanse of ice within a few hours; specifically, the Steffen Glacier, and Valley, named for the German explorer and geographer, Hans Steffen, who was one of the first to explore the Region, around 1900.

• Type of Activity: Boat trip with options for hiking (exploration style)and camping.

• Sector: San Rafael Lagoon National Park

• Start Point: Docks, Caleta Tortel

• End Point: Docks, Caleta Tortel• Considerations: You will need

to register your visit and pay the National Park entrance fee in the CONAF offices in Tortel. Proximity of access is determined by the boat captains; foul weather will prevent a safe passage to the glacier. In order to increase odds of having a successful visit, allow at least two days in your itinerary, to accommodate bad weather cancellations. You can reserve your trip through one of the captains listed in the Service Directory. If you are prone to motion sickness, consider bringing medication.

• Distance: 35 Km in boat. Hiking is variable, based on trail conditions and time of year. It is feasible to hike between 6 - 20 Km.

• Duration: 10 hours - 2 days.• Seasonality: November to April• Difficulty: The boat trip is apt for

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bush-whacking, wetlands and moraine. The Route: You’ll spend a full-day boating, aboard a partially covered vessel, which protects visitors from the rains and winds, often encountered in this area. The 35 Km round-trip takes around 10 hours, depending on the style of boat. Optional hiking requires more time; so, if you are interested in exploration, you should consider two days for this adventure.

On your approach, you will be surrounded by thousands of icebergs that now fill the waterway. These provide your first indications of a unique world, receding from the ice after thousands of years. Hiking depends on the weather and the changing conditions of the terrain, due to weather and glacier retreat. If the mouth of the river is flooded, you will take a wooden rowboat to higher ground, and begin your journey at an alternative starting point. If the water level is low, you will start at the trail origin, a dirt road that borders the Vargas farm.

The trail leads along the road bordering the Huemul River floodplain, and is indicated by markers on the trees, and cairns, strategically placed, so visitors can stay on track. You’ll walk approximately 3 Km along this road, before coming to the clearly marked location for crossing the River.

If you cannot safely make the crossing, due to high water levels, the Vargas family has a rowboat that visitors can use, to cross in the wider sections of the river, nearby. After crossing, the trail travels through dense forests, making the markers a bit harder to spot. Keep a close watch. When the trail reaches a pronounced rock formation, you’ll climb a small rise, which leads to the viewpoint for the Steffen Glacier, the moraine field, and the open Valley.

In this changing landscape, foliage is extremely dense. The soils are often bog-like and mixed with rocky moraine. These conditions make hiking difficult so base your turn-around point on the conditions. You are extremely likely to encounter huemul (hippocamelus bisulcus) so have your camera handy and remember not to stress the huemul with sudden movements or loud noises. Note potential camping locations along the way. It can be difficult to find level sites with soil and foliage conditions apt for tents. You may need to return several kilometers to establish camp. Make sure you give yourself sufficient time.

The local CONAF staff in Caleta Tortel are a good source of current information regarding the trails, the landscape, presence of huemules, and options for camping. Stop in to their office to pay the National Park Entrance Fee and gather information that can be helpful in planning your exploration.



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Visit Fundo Los Cipreses at Los Ñadis.

Traveling the final Sections of the Undiscovered Patagonia Circuit, you will find yourself crossing a bridge over Barrancoso River, in a sector

called Los Ñadis. A short 10 Km side trip along a gravel country road will reward you with the perfect place to relax, unwind, and experience

a bit of Patagonian farm life, in an incredible natural setting.

In the bend of the road, just past the bridge over the Barrancoso River, you'll notice signage for Camping at Fundo Los Cipreses. Turn off along this gravel country road, and take the detour 6 Km, passing through livestock gates, to the small bridge over the Ñadis River. Cross the suspension bridge and continues 3 Km to this beautiful farm, which offers a small shelter, complete with an equipped kitchen and area to relax. The shelter has four single beds, and great spaces outside if you prefer camping. There is food for purchase in their “rural kiosk”, and hot showers. The farm has also a quincho, which is a traditional type of building in Patagonia, built so that people have shelter from the weather while barbecuing, which here, means having an Asado al Palo.

Fundo Los Cipreses offers a place where you can truly relax and unwind after your adventures on the Carretera Austral. Here, you will discover a bit of what it is like to live in such a rural corner of the world. Surrounded on all sides by the high peaks of the Andes, hanging glaciers, and stunning waterfalls, the farm rests in a valley, bordering the confluence of the Baker and Ñadis Rivers, which wind and bend along the edges of their fields.

The Sanchez-Schindele family offers tourism services through the Ñadis River Refuge & Camping, from December through March each year. Don Rosendo Sanchez was born in the area, and is the grandson of one of the first settlers of the Baker River sector. Elisabeth Schindele, was born in Germany, and decided to settle in Cochrane 15+ years ago, after discovering the area, during a backpacking trip. Through one of life's

odd turns, they met, married and began a family. They have two children, Lorena and Bernardo. Several years ago, they began to open up their farm to visitors, offering lodging, and horseback riding. Elisabeth bakes delicious white and whole-grain bread loaves, in a wood burning clay oven her father built during one of his annual visits from Germany. She offers them for sale, along with homemade jams prepared from the fruits and berries harvested on the farm, as well as several other regional food items. Elisabeth also offers Bread Kits, which provide all of the raw ingredients for making your own bread, within the wood-burning oven of the shelter.

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Prepare your own home-baked bread, Patagonia style.

Perhaps, your experience within Patagonia has sparked something inside and

you’d like to try making homemade bread for yourself. It’s really not so hard; many find it to be a relaxing way to unwind. Go ahead and unleash the baker within.

Traveling the Undiscovered Patagonia Circuit affords plenty of opportunities to try all sorts of homemade, fresh-baked , breads and rolls. In this corner of the world, making homemade bread still plays a central role in the daily life of many families. For many, baking their bread involves choosing not only the right ingredients and recipes; but also, using the right sized logs in their wood-burning stove, to get the temperature to exactly the point, so bread will bake, but not burn.

Perhaps, your experience within Patagonia has sparked something inside and you’d like to try making homemade bread for yourself. A great place to practice is in the shelter at Ñadis River Refuge & Camping. There, you will find a fully equipped kitchen and a “rural

kiosk” where you can buy jars of home-made jam, and “make your own” bread kits, with everything you need to prepare bread, including an authentic, Patagonia style, wood-burning oven.

Step 1: Obtain your Ingredients: Talk with Elisabeth Schindele if you are staying at Fundo Los Cipreses, or head to the nearest market, to obtain these ingredients:

• ½ Kilo all-purpose or bread flour• Small package of salt, at least 200 grams• Small pouch of dry yeast• Small package of sugar, at least 500

grams• ½ Liter of Vegetable Oil

Step 2: Prepare your Dough: Pour 1/2 cup of warm water into a small bowl, add 2 tablespoons of dry yeast and 1/2 teaspoon of sugar, and stir. Place the bowl in a warm spot, but not directly on a heat source, and let it sit for 5 minutes, to activate the yeast. In a separate bowl, place ½ kilo of flour and 200 grams of salt, and mix well. Form the flour into a small, hill shape, and make a hole in the middle. (Yes, like a volcano.) Pour ¼ cup of oil into the hole, and then slowly add the yeast/water mix. Next, begin adding the remaining 1 ½ cups of warm water.

Step 3: Work the dough: Use your hands to begin folding the flour, and the mixture of ingredients in the hole, together. You’re going to do this until everything is well blended, and the consistency of the dough is such that, it’s not too sticky. Add more water, if it’s too dry; and more flour, if you feel it’s too sticky. Continue kneading

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the dough, until soft. Total blending and kneading should take you 10-15 minutes. This blending and kneading process is the key factor that will give your bread a light, airy consistency, and determine its potential to properly rise. Form the kneaded dough into a ball, and place into a bowl. Cover with a clean, slightly damp dishtowel, and set in a warm place to rise. Rising will take approximately 45 minutes.

Step 4: Baking your bread: You’ll need to have a clean work surface, that is large enough to roll out the dough, approximately 1 square meter, in surface area, will work great. Use a clean wooden table, or a counter top. Roll the dough into a large circle of about ¾ inch, thickness. Cut rolls from the dough, using a upside-down drinking glass, or a round cookie cutter, as your mold. Place on a baking sheet with at least 1 inch of separation, and allow to rest for another 15 minutes, before baking. Preheat your oven to 180º C. Bake your rolls for 10 - 12 minutes. Turn one of your rolls over to see if the bottom has turned a golden brown. When this is the case, turn all of the rolls over on the tray, returning them to the oven for 3 -5 minutes more, so that both sides develop this color. When they have browned to your taste, remove them from the oven, and let them cool a few minutes, before starting to enjoy. ¡Buen provecho!

A note about baking bread in a wood-burning stove: You’ll want to fill the firebox with logs and allow it to get quite hot. There are no thermometers involved - baking bread in a wood-burning oven is an art, rather than a science; and one that is mastered through practice. Each oven is different, as is the case with types and cuts of wood. Even the weather affects the way bread bakes. As a novice, you will want to keep a close eye on your bread as it's baking to monitor the color and adjust the heat accordingly.

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On horseback, to El Saltón and Corte San Carlos.

This 7 hour horse trek begins from the Los Cipreses Farm, 55 Km south of Cochrane, in the Los Ñadis sector of the Circuit. The excursion combines

landscapes and local history with the experience of traveling with a local expert.

• Activity Type: Horseback Riding • Sector: Los Ñadis Sector, along the

Circuit, between Caleta Tortel and Cochrane.

• Starting Point: Fundo los Cipreses• Ending Point: Fundo los Cipreses• Considerations: Reserve your

ride in advance, with Ñadis River Refuge & Camping, or one of the other Service Providers listed in the Service Directory.

• Distance: 18 Km• Duration: 7 hours• Seasonality: December to March• Difficulty: Children under the

age of ten should have prior riding experience and opt for a shorter route, of 2 hours or less. Fundo Los Cipreses can accommodate families, with a route exploring their ranch.

The Route: After a brief orientation introducing the horses and principles for safe riding, you’ll leave the ranch,

accompanied by your guide, along a trail used by settlers in the sector. You’ll travel through forests of coigüe (nothofagus dombeyi) and ñire (nothofagus Antarctica), open meadows, and streams, as you follow the trail along the shores of the Baker River. In the distance, you will have views of the mountains, covered with snow and glaciers.

This is a great area for bird watching. Expect the company of buffed-neck ibis (theristicus caudatus), southern lapwing (vanellus chilensis), and other native, and migrating birds, as you ride. After approximately 2 hours, you’ll start hearing, and feeling, the thunder of the Baker River, as water crashes against the rocks nearby. Here, you'll leave the horses in the woods, and approach the rapids on foot. You’ll have plenty of time to relax, take pictures and enjoy the breathtaking scenery of The Saltón. If you are very lucky, you might spot huemul (hippocamelus bisulcus); which inhabit this area.

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The Saltón was officially discovered in 1898, on an expedition of the German geographer, Hans Steffen, who was exploring the Baker River, from its mouth near Caleta Tortel, to its source in Lago Bertrand. A few years later, the lands surrounding the Baker, were conceded to a cattle company, for ranching. One of the biggest challenges facing the company, was the need to move livestock from the grazing lands, to the Pacific. They needed to build a trail, and pass through this fierce section of the Baker River. Other Estancias shared this need, and eventually, the project to construct infrastructure to maneuver through El Saltón, was undertaken by Don Lucas Bridge, the Administrator and co-owner of Estancia Baker, in the Chacabuco Valley. Along with a team of workers, they built El Corte San Carlos, which you will have the opportunity to see.

You'll walk 15 minutes to visit this impressive work, that culminates with a short tunnel, suspended high above. The River rewards your efforts with a wonderful panorama of white water. And, with luck; you’ll spot Andean condors (vultur gryphus), which frequent the area, often coming as close as a few meters. If you’d like, you can walk another 10 minutes to see an exceptional view of the next stretch of the river, which eventually, leads to the sea. Afterwards, you'll return to the horses, and the trail leading back to the corral at Fundo Los Cipreses.

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Best practices for horse riding in Patagonia.

For many visitors and residents, the words, Horse and Patagonia, are almost synonyms. You will definitely encounter many opportunities to ride

during your time in the Undiscovered Patagonia Circuit. In this article we offer some tips from the manual, “Best Practices for horse riding

in Protected Areas”, developed by The Guide's School of Patagonia.

The Chilean riding style is very easy to learn, due to the generally submissive nature of MOST Chilean horses. The Chilean riding style does not use special horse gaits, nor special leg movements, to prompt the horse to go forward, or move sideways.

If you don't have prior experience with horses, keep in mind that the horses in Patagonia, and most of the world, are handled from their left hand side. You must put the saddle on the horse from the left side. Likewise, you should mount, dismount, and lead the horse, on the left-hand side, unless you are in terrain that prevents safely doing so. This custom traces back to the days when horsemen carried a sword while riding.

On long journeys, make sure your stirrups

are neither too long, or too short; sitting comfortably is very important. If you notice that your stirrups do not have the appropriate length, as you are riding, ask the guide, or assistant, to help you properly adjust them. Otherwise, you may experience knee problems.

Proper footwear is very important when riding. Trekking shoes usually have large and thick soles; for horseback rides, it is better to wear smooth soled shoes.

Reins in Patagonian style riding, are carried together, in one hand. You should switch the reins between hands, on long rides. Reins shouldn't be held too loose; it is important that they impose some control over the horse. However, it important not to place too much pressure on the horse’s mouth,

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as a result of having the reins too taught. Having the reins firm, and balanced, will do the trick. Let your hand move forward on the reins, until you have them in a place where you can easily maneuver them to stop, and change paces, with the horse. Pulling on the reins, in a quick movement, backwards, performs both commands.

Riding means working with impulses, using your leg muscles to help you communicate with your horse about what you want him, or her, to do. Your legs should not press constantly; as this would prompt the horse to step forward; just stretch them out, allowing them to rest in a relaxed position, with your knees slightly bent and a bit forward. If you want to move forward, or to begin a faster pace, just press both legs briefly against the horse's body and tap his sides gently, with your heels. You may have to do so two or three times, if your horse is not so responsive, until he figures out what your are asking.

Chilean horses know the three basic paces: walking, trotting, and galloping. The most important pace, for long horse-treks, is the walk. This is for two good reasons. First, because your horse needs to conserve his energy, to carry you safely for the entire trek. Second, in many places you will be riding in Patagonia, the terrain doesn't allow horses to travel at other

paces. Walking is relaxing for both you, and your horse; however, make sure your horse doesn't begin to drowse. This happens at times, and could be really dangerous on difficult terrain. Therefore, you should make sure that your horse is always attentive by maintaining control and nudging it along, constantly.

For inexperienced riders, trotting is the most uncomfortable pace. One tactic that can help is posting; although this is not commonly used amongst gauchos. Posting works with the horse's

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rhythm during the movement of the trot. You become more active during posting, standing up briefly in the saddle, every two steps, so that, as the rhythm of the horse’s gait moves his back up and down, you do not feel the bumpy ride. It's a good idea to choose one of the horse’s forelegs, and use the movement of that leg as your “cue”.Every time the horse steps forward with this leg, you should stand up briefly, and then immediately sit again, so you are ready for the next step. On longer distance trots, you should change the “cue” leg every five minutes or so, to avoid overtaxing one side of the horse. (It's a bit hard to explain on paper, but easy to understand if you watch. There are lots of videos showing the basics of posting available on You Tube!)

The gallop is a more comfortable pace; since, once you find a good balance, it is easier to relax into the natural movement of the horse. While galloping is much more comfortable for riders, it is also much faster than trotting, so it requires the horse to expend a lot more energy, and beginning riders generally feel a bit "out of control". One trick is to gallop in a light position. This is less demanding for the rider and more comfortable for the horse. Just lean forward a little and stand down on the

stirrups until you’re, just barely, not touching the saddle. Your knees must remain tight against the saddle to keep your balance.

If you are lucky, you will have one of the Chilean horses capable of performing a fourth pace, called a march, which is a combination of walking and trotting. The march is much faster than a walk; yet very comfortable for riders, and less demanding for horses. It is ideal for long horse treks!

It is very important to stop and check that your saddle is properly adjusted, especially before going up or down a steep hill. As your horse exercises, the saddle can loosen, so keep alert. Uphill climbs are far more demanding on your horse, than riding on flat terrains. For this reason, you should bend forward, in accordance with the slope, and relax a little bit on the reins. This does not mean you should let the reins be loose! If the climb is steep and you and/or the horse start to slip back, hold on to the mane; never pull the reins as a form of supporting yourself.

Going downhill, especially in uneven and mountainous terrain, demands a lot of concentration on the part of your horse, so as

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to avoid stumbling or slipping. It is important to relax the reins a bit, allowing the horse the freedom to better sort out his (and your) balance. Basically, the two of you need to work together, as a team. If your horse is descending too fast, pull the reins slightly to slow him down. Lean back, using the degree of the slope as your guide, stretch your legs forward in a straight position, firm in the stirrups, and trust that your horse, and your guide, have ample experience moving through the mountains of Patagonia. Chilean horses are used to going downhill in groups, and keeping close to one another. Do not attempt trotting or galloping downhill, unless the slope is very slight and the surface is firm.

If, when going up or downhill, you feel scared or that the terrain is dangerous, choose a safe place to stop, and if possible, communicate with your guide that you need his assistance. Often, your guide will remain on horseback, even in difficult terrain, and drive the other horses downhill by whistling and shouting.

If, for some reason, there is not a guide with you, find a safe place to stop, get off your horse, and choose one of the following alternatives. If the path is broad enough to lead the horse, walking on his left side, while maintaining a safe distance on both sides of

your body (from the horse and from the edge), lead your horse to a place you feel more comfortable. If the path is too narrow for this method, lead the horse from in front, making the reins as long as possible, so as to keep a good distance between you and the horse. The risk involved with leading a horse in this manner, on a steep slope, is that the horse can fall, and injure you, as well.

Other obstacles that you may encounter, include low hanging tree branches, overhanging rocks, or boulders. Horses do not compensate their spacial judgment based on the added requirements of riders. For this reason, you must guide him. You should always remain attentive to obstacles, steering around when possible, and bending down when needed. Be careful going through forested areas, watching the space you will pass through, between tree. Maintain sufficient control so your can stop the horse, if needed.

We highly encourage you to wear a helmet, if available, whether your guide chooses to, or not. Bridges also present risks; particularly, old wooden bridges. After rainfall the surface of these bridges tends to be water-soaked and slippery. Lead your horse or cross carefully; deferring to your judgment and the directions of your guide. If you are crossing an unstable or suspension-style bridge, that produces movement, it is better

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to cross one horse at a time.

In general, remain aware of the environment in which you are riding, and try to recognize possible dangers early. Groups are generally composed of people with various riding levels and expectations; therefore, before heading out, your group should talk briefly, and reach some agreements around basic topics, including the order of horses/riders, and the gaits you are going to use.

When riding on roads, always remain aware of the possibility that you will encounter approaching vehicles, animals, and/or people. Only pass, or change the order of horses, in wide open stretches, where you are sure there is no oncoming traffic or sudden barriers. Be prepared and in position so that you can efficiently move to a single file order, or stop at the side of the road, if needed. If you have the option, it is better to ride along the side of the road that does not have a drop-off, or cliff.

It is important to keep a safe distance between horses, when riding in a group. As a general rule, you should keep a horse's length distance, between each rider/horse. When you are riding on a level surface, you should be able to look out over the ears of your horse and, see the bottom section, of the back legs, of the horse in front of you. If you can see their

rear hooves, it's even better. When riding down or uphill, it is better to keep a distance of two or three horses between riders, to avoid hurting other horses or riders, in the event that one horse falls or slips.

If you are required to cross a river on horseback, make sure your guide takes charge of the group. He should provide you with clear instructions about the line of the river he wants you to cross, the order of riders, and other situational factors. A more experienced horse should be in front of the group, to serve as a guide for the others. At times, riders can get dizzy when crossing; if this happens, look to the horizon, and if possible, allow your feet to get wet. You can dry them out when you get to the other side. During the crossing, you should allow the reins to be loose, so that your horse can walk at his own rhythm and find his way through the river bottom. You should never ride your horse through water, where he cannot touch the bottom and must swim!

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Summer in Patagonia means it’s time for an Asado al Palo.

An Asado al Palo is a very important part of Patagonian culture and cuisine. It’s a great summertime celebration which combines all the things we love the most: love, family and friendship; jokes and stories;

music, wine and dancing; and of course, great food! Don’t pass up the chance to join in at some point during your travels.

Written by Sr. Cristian Solis, son of pioneer, Don Eduardo Solis, from the small town of Lago Verde, Chile, which is in the northern part of the Region of Aysén. ([email protected])

I have lived here all my life. I grew up working with my father and my cousins, on our farm, which is in the northern part of the Region. Now, I work in tourism, which gives me the opportunity to share my beautiful home and its many traditions with visitors from all over. My hope is that you will come to love Patagonia like I do; that you will share in our celebrations and traditions, and help us to conserve and protect our Region, so that it remains intact for future generations.

When our grandfathers and great-grandfathers came to settle Patagonia, they quickly discovered that working these lands, amongst the mountainous terrain and harsh

climate, required a lot of help. The easiest and fastest way to tackle the hard work of settling a farm in Aysén, was to join hands with our family and neighbors, and work as a team. Today, it’s a tradition in the Region; for the big jobs, like branding, shearing, and ear-tagging, we all join in, moving from farm to farm, working together, to get the work done.

And on each farm, when we finish our work, we celebrate with a typical Patagonian barbecue, which we call an Asado al Palo. So, what’s on the menu? I thought you’d never ask! Spit roasted lambs, tortas fritas with fresh pebre, two or three different kinds of salads, boiled potatoes, and of course, red wine!

And so things go summer after summer, farm after farm, working HARD and then celebrating, with a great countryside feast.

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And its more than food. The best Asados are accompanied by the sounds of a guitar and an accordion, guests joking and dancing, and the gauchos passing around a leather canteen, which we call a bota, filled with red wine. And, of course, a great quincho or fogón always helps, if the Patagonia weather creeps in. What are they? Well, with the crazy weather of Patagonia, we needed an option for barbecuing inside. So, we invented quinchos. They are sorts of rustic party-shacks, often round, complete with an indoor fire pit! Fogóns are the same, but usually even more rustic. I’ve probably helped by sisters and my cousins build 10 or 15 quinchos in my days.

My father always maintained, (and he still does), a portion of his sheep, for our family’s personal consumption during the year. Asados were almost a staple while I was growing up, our own sort of "party plan", so for all of the birthdays and holidays, we would come together, with our parents, and share in this great tradition. The only hard part was making the “family consumption” sheep, last the whole season, from December to October.

During early spring in Patagonia, in the latter days of September, the first lambs are born.

As soon as they reach a weight of 11 Km, everyone in Patagonia begins to long for an opportunity to enjoy a delicious Patagonian Asado al Palo. During the summer months, the demand for lambs rises 300%, especially in December and January, when families come together to celebrate Christmas and New Years. A traditional, Patagonian-style Asado al Palo, is the essential feast!

A great way to celebrate your time in Patagonia and the end of Undiscovered Patagonia Circuit, is to take part in a traditional Patagonian Asado. In our Service Directory, you can find listings for the many Farms, Quinchos, Fogóns, and restaurants, that offer the service of an Asado al Palo for visitors! Everyone offers their own special twist, some with music and dancing included! And, if your group isn’t large enough to warrant a whole lamb, which typically feeds 12 -13 people, you can opt for a rack of beef ribs, or farm-made chorizo sausages, cooked beside a campfire.

Trace Gale

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How to prepare a Patagonian Asado al Palo.

Believe it or not, this happens a lot. We’re gathered around the stove, early in the morning, sharing some yerba

mates with our visitors. One of them tells us about a strange dream they’ve had; usually it involves their great-great-grandmother’s wood-

stove, a purple accordion, and fresh cilantro. Weird. We put down the mates and take them out to the barn to show them THE BIG SECRET.

Chickens don’t live on Styrofoam trays wrapped in plastic! After the shock wears off and they think about it a while, they start to get curious about a lot of new things. The process of preparing a lamb for an Asado seems to always come up. So, here’s the whole story, from start to finish. And, if this topic makes you a bit nervous, we want you to know, here in Patagonia, we have a saying: “Try on whatever you want when you’re in the store, BUT, you don’t have to buy and take them all home! So, read on if you’ve also had strange dreams about your great-great grandmother lately. Then relax and enjoy having a Patagon prepare a party in your honor. After all, this is your vacation. Buen provecho and salud!

To prepare a typical Patagonian Asado al Palo, with roasted lamb, for 13 - 15 people, the first step is to buy the ingredients. They are the key to success!

Ingredients:

• 1, 13-15 Kg Patagonian lamb, from the special stock set aside for family and celebrations.

• 1 corked wine bottle of brine, (salmuera). Take an empty Pisco bottle and fill it with hot PATAGONIA freshwater, add 1 bulb of chopped garlic, 3 Tablespoons of salt, 2 Tablespoons of crushed oregano, 1 Tablespoon of pepper, a 1 Tablespoon of Aliño Completo. You can find this spice mix in any supermarket or food shop. Next, carve out four “corners” on your cork so it looks like an “X”, and a tiny bit of liquid can get through

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when you turn the bottle upside down. You’ll use your salmuera to marinate the lamb as it cooks.

• 5 kg locally grown potatoes and 1 bulb of garlic. It’s better if you can see the actual field where these were grown, from the quincho where you will be eating.

• A bunch of coriander, cut fresh, from the invernadero (greenhouse), in back of the kitchen.

• ½ kg lemons and 1 Tablespoon Salt (these can come from Santiago or the ECA)

• Salads: You’ll want at least 2 or 3 options. Begin with something simple, like fresh lettuce from the invernadero, mixed with lemon, vegetable oil, and salt. Moving on, the options run the culinary spectrum, depending on what’s fresh and ripe, and what we’re in the mood for. In Patagonia we like to eat salads made from grated vegetables, like carrots and beets, and sliced vegetables, like cucumbers and tomatoes.

• Tortas fritas and Chilean Pebre (Remember, we told you these were perfect with Asados!)

• Chilean red wine: merlot, cabernet or carmenere. Must be served in a "bota" (a leather canteen). Pick up

several liters, and don't bother with bottles. Instead, fill your bota with our everyday boxed wine; it's cheaper, and for some reason, the leather from the bota really brings out great flavor from the boxed wine.

• At least one Accordion (purple, if available), and 1 Guitar.

Preparation: It is advisable to sacrifice the lamb at least 9 hours before roasting it, so that the meat dries and becomes cold. This will make it much easier to put the lamb on the asador and sear its meat, so that once put over the fire, it keeps a stronger flavor.

The first step is to sacrifice the lamb: Slaughtering a lamb is one of the oldest activities in the history of humanity; it has existed since biblical times. If done properly and humanely, no one should suffer! PLEASE, if you do not know how to humanely slaughter an animal, do not pick your Patagonian vacation as the time to experiment! Find a gaucho and let him, or her, show you how it’s done. When it's time, make sure you have a well-sharpened knife and a flat-bottomed Pyrex glass dish, containing chopped coriander, a tablespoon of salt, and 4 lemon halves.

1. Hold the snout of the lamb with your left hand. Support yourself and the lamb, by placing your right knee on the ground and your left knee pressing slightly against the base of the lamb’s shoulder and ribs. This will help you to maintain a grip on the animal. Hold the knife with your right hand and place it on the curve of the jaw. Insert it firmly and quickly, until it reaches, and cuts, the jugular vein. That's it.

2. Let the blood empty into the Pyrex dish, making sure not to spill. Once you have collected enough blood, you will be ready to start preparing lamb “Ñachi”. This is a typical Patagonian dish, or maybe, it's more of a custom; but, whatever it is, you make it with freshly clotted blood. You prepare Ñachi while the blood is still in its liquid state, mixing it with coriander and salt. To "cook" the

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preparation, you add lemon juice, which adds acid. Let the dish rest for no longer than 10 minutes. Once the blood has clotted, it forms a gelatin consistency and can be sliced into cubes, put onto a dish and served, to brave souls, while the lamb is being roasted. A side note: Eating Ñachi, especially for novices, has the tendency to make you REALLY sleepy, due to its high Iron content. Don’t sit too near the fire!

3. Finish draining the blood from the meat, and then you’ll begin to prepare the lamb for the asador. Remove the skin, beginning with the legs, chest and genitalia. Make a slit to open these areas and remove the skin away from the flesh with both fists. Hang the lamb from its shank, so the flesh does not come in contact with the ground. Once the lamb has been hung, remove the rest of the skin. To make sure the skin does not tear, leaving fat stuck to the flesh, slit the skin a bit with your knife, and pull down to remove it.

4. With your lamb hanging from the shank, it is easy to open its center cavity and remove the guts. Start by making a slit with the knife, from the abdomen down to the genitalia. Remove everything inside, except the kidneys, which are stuck behind the ribs. Cut the head off, slice along the ribs, part way through, so

that you can open them wide, and leave the lamb hanging, so that the meat cools.

Next, you need to put the lamb on the asador: Once the meat is cool, put the lamb on a table, with the open ribs facing up. An asador is a tool made of two metal bars. The longer of the two is approximately 170 cm in height, and the shorter, which is equipped with small hooks on the ends, is around 90 cm. They two bars are assembled in the form of a cross.

In order to make sure that the lamb will cook evenly, you'll want to trim the thicker areas of flesh, so that all of the meat is around the same thickness. Both the forequarters and hindquarters should be opened, so that the meat cooks properly, without leaving any raw parts. You should also cut from the third rib, down to the last one. Then, turn the ribs so that they face down and thin the shoulders.

Once all your cuts are ready, you should put the lamb on the asador, by placing and plunging one of the ends of the long bar, between the spine and the skin, so that it comes out again, around the neck. Hook both quarters to the ends of the horizontal bar, so that the lamb stays open. Then, tie the lamb to the asador using a piece of wire to prevent the meat from slipping off, while it is being roasted. Put a horizontal stake across the lamb toward the bottom of the asador, in order to keep the shoulders open

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and another, to keep the ribs wide. Once all stakes have been placed and the lamb has been put on the asador, you are ready for the fire.

Finally, it’s time to roast the lamb. It is very important to light your fire about 30 minutes in advance, so that it produces the embers that provide the heat you need, to cook the lamb evenly. Avoid roasting the lamb over direct flames; you will burn it and dry it out! Start with the lamb ribs, facing the fire, and plunge the asador into the ground, approximately 70 cm from the fire. Tilt the top of the asador toward the fire, at an angle of around 60° or 70°.

Make sure you constantly check on the fire temperature by putting your hand as close as possible to the side of the lamb facing the fire. Hold your hand in that position for 3 seconds, if possible. It should feel hot but not burn you. If that's the case, the fire is at an adequate temperature. Keep in mind that the rib-side is the thinnest part of the lamb, which means that it is the most delicate and the one that burns most easily. You should keep constant watch on the fire, making sure that the ribs do not turn brown.

Another of the challenges for the person in charge of the roasting, is making certain that both quarters cook evenly, as well as the shoulders. To monitor this, put your hand behind the lamb from time to time: when you feel warmth coming through the meat, the lamb is ready to be turned around. Remove the asador, and rotate it so that the other side is near the fire. Reaffirm it into the ground.

When you turn the lamb over, you should start boiling the potatoes, so that both are ready, in unison. The meat cooks faster after the lamb has been turned over, since most of the work has already been done. During the whole cooking process, make sure you stoke the fire regularly, in order to distribute heat homogeneously, with the embers. The whole cooking process takes 3 to 4 hours, depending on the size of the lamb and the quality of the fire.

Enjoy your Asado Patagon! Like

many other parts of the world, the barbecuing is left to the guys, who hang out by the fire and "guy talk". Meanwhile, the gals share yerba mate or wine, catching up on all the news, and prepare the salads and other accompaniments. But, when the lamb is ready, everybody comes together. In fact, the camaraderie built up among the guests of this feast, during the cooking time, is an essential ingredient for a Patagonian Asado al Palo, To help, there are always some gauchos playing accordion and guitar, couples dancing to the sound of chamamé or ranchera Patagona, and generous sharing of wine, from a "bota" . The side dishes, like potatoes, salads, tortas fritas, and pebre, are usually passed around family-style, or served from a buffet; and, the person in charge of roasting, cuts the meat, making sure the portions suffice for everyone.

So, now you know. Tonight, when you dream, tell your great-great-grandmother all about it - she’ll approve!

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You’re finally ready. Meet marvelous Mt. San Lorenzo!

Mount San Lorenzo, with a height of 3706 meters, is the second highest mountain in Patagonia and one of the most beautiful places

along the Undiscovered Patagonia Circuit. This incredible mountain is an almost constant beacon during the circuit, visible to you from Cochrane,

Valley Chacabuco, the Mayer River sector, and for many kilometers traveling down National Route 40. But, we’ve been saving it for last.

Finally, it’s time to get close to this marvelous mountain range! Access the Mt. San Lorenzo Sector from the final Section of the Undiscovered Patagonia Circuit, in route to Cochrane from the Ñadis River. Head to Fundo San Lorenzo, an important base camp for mountaineers seeking to summit. The high mountain base camp offers protected campsites, with hot showers, and a great quincho, for cooking. They also have another shelter high on the mountain, at Base camp de Agostini. Don Luis Soto and his wife, Lucy Gómez, offer guided hikes, horse treks, and Asados al Palo, complete with accordion.

The best way to navigate the back roads to their camp, is to radio ahead, from Fundo Los Cipreses, or one of the other farms, in the Ñadis Sector. Don Luis can meet you at the marked cross road, on the right side of the Carretera Austral, around 33 Km into Section 4E, just 6 Km before Cochrane. You can throw your bike in his pick-up or follow him in.

Experienced mountaineers train for months, and wait at base camps for days, hoping for the right weather to start climbing. The official name of the mountain, in Chile, is Cerro Cochrane, but this is not a very popular denomination; everyone calls it Cerro or Monte San Lorenzo. As an isolated massif, to the east of the Andes, this range serves as a reference point for the border between Chile and Argentina. On the eastern face, the wide pampa and steppe, produce a micro climate and some of the most amazing lenticular clouds

in Patagonia. This same micro climate produces special elements of risk and challenge for mountaineers, compared to other mountains of similar height and scale, in other areas of the world.

The first ascent of Mt. San Lorenzo was completed in 1943, by a group from Bariloche, AR, They were led by Fr. Alberto de Agostini, a Salesian priest. The first winter ascent was completed only in 2004 by a group of young Chileans, led by Pablo Besser. If you’d like to learn more about this range, we recommend the books, Andes Patagónicos, written by Alberto M.. De Agostini; and Patagonia, written by Gino Buscaini and Silvia Metzeltin.

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Day hike to Cerro Mirador in the San Lorenzo Range.

This 6 hour guided trek starts at the beautiful and remote high-mountain farm, Fundo San Lorenzo, which sits at the foot of Mount San Lorenzo. The hike leads to an overlook, on an unnamed mountain that we call, Cerro Mirador,

offering magnificent views of the glaciers and mountain peaks of San Lorenzo.

Meet Don Luis Soto in Cochrane or at the cross roads to San Lorenzo, just 6 Km from town, and head to Fundo San Lorenzo, a famous mountaineering base camp, where you can relax for the day or stay longer, trekking and horseback riding with Don Luis and his wife Lucy, or one of the other authorized guides who work in the Sector. During your stay, we suggest arranging an Asado al Palo, complete with Don Luis’s accordion and his son Francisco’s guitar.

• Activity Type: Guided Hike.• Sector: Monte San Lorenzo• Starting Point: Cochrane, or the

Carretera Austral Cross Road.• Ending Point: Fundo San Lorenzo• Considerations: To coordinate this

adventure, we suggest, contacting Don Luis Soto, to make reservations and coordinate a meeting place. Details are provided in the Service Directory.

• Distance: 8 Km, round trip.• Duration: 4 - 6 hours• Seasonality: November to May• Difficulty: The weather can be very

windy and cold. It is important to be well prepared and complete this hike with a guide, expert in this terrain.

The Route: The trek climbs the southeast face of Cerro Mirador, ascending approximately 1,000 M, over a distance of 4 kilometers. It is challenging, but the views from the overlook, which include the wide open valleys, enormous glaciers and jetting peaks of the San Lorenzo Range, are breathtaking - be sure to have your camera ready!!! In good weather, your view extends further ; to the main peaks of the Northern Ice Field and the wide valleys surrounding Cochrane and the Tamango National Reserve.

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Multisport adventure to the Calluqueo Glacier.

Calluqueo is the main Glacier descending from Mt. San Lorenzo, situated about 50 Km southeast of Cochrane. This excursion includes

a 4x4 tour, a river crossing by foot, and a short hike (3 Km) to an amazing overlook for the Calluqueo Glacier, with its pro glacial lake

below and the peaks of Mt. San Lorenzo in the background.

Visiting the Calluqueo Glacier is the perfect farewell adventure, as you wind up your time along the Undiscovered Patagonia Circuit. Calluqueo Glacier is the main glacier coming down from Mt. San Lorenzo, in Chile. The opening of the road that will eventually connect Cochrane to Villa O’Higgins, has made access to Calluqueo Glacier much more feasible; not long ago, it could only be reached after hours of horse riding along rustic trails.

• Activity Type: Self-guided 4x4 or bike tour, river crossing and short hike.

• Sector: San Lorenzo• Starting Point: Marked cross road,

on the right side of the Carretera Austral, around 33 Km into Section 4E, just 6 Km before Cochrane

• Ending Point: Carretera Austral, 6 Km south of Cochrane.

• Considerations: This excursion requires crossing the Calluqueo River on foot and is not advisable for travelers without prior experience. If you lack the proper experience, please arrange a guided excursion, with one of the guides listed in the Service Directory.

• Distance: 66 Km in vehicle and 6 Km hiking, round trip, from Carretera Austral crossing.

• Duration: 4 hours with Vehicle; 2 Days Biking, You can camp at the end of the road, beside the river.

• Seasonality: October to March• Difficulty: Technical, due to river

crossing. Expertise required.

The Circuit - Part 1: 4x4 Driving Tour: The road to the Calluqueo Glacier departs from the Carretera Austral, 6 Km south of Cochrane, marked with a sign

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indicating Monte San Lorenzo. This road follows the edge of Esmeralda Lake until its junction with El Salto River. You’ll pass through several ranches and old-growth forests, following along the course of the River. The peaks of San Lorenzo will be visible, in the distance. Shortly after the confluence of the San Lorenzo and El Salto Rivers, you will cross a bridge over the River narrows. Proceeding south of the San Lorenzo River, you’ll pass a meadow and wetland area, which borders Confluence Lake.

The road to Calluqueo Glacier takes you along a marked detour, 2 kilometers after the Bridge, following the edge of Confluence Lake, and later, the El Salto and Calluqueo Rivers. Keep driving until the road ends at the edge of the River, approximately 12½ Km after turning onto the detour. When you reach the river, park your car. Do not try to cross the river by car. Leave your car parked to the north bank of the river and continue on foot.

The Circuit - Part 2: The River Crossing and Hike: The hike to the Calluqueo Glacier is a brief 3 Km, along the wide open gravel road being built through the area. The technical aspect of the excursion is attributable to one simple factor, the crossing on foot, of the Calluqueo River. Crossing the river is not advisable

for travelers without prior experience in similar conditions. If you lack the proper experience, please do not attempt the crossing without a guide. The Calluqueo River is fed directly from the glacier and is very cold, with temperatures between 4° and 6°C. In summer, especially when it rains or when temperatures are high, glacier thaw increases and produces high, rapidly changing waters in the section you must cross. While Calluqueo Lake absorbs some of the variation, the River’s level can quickly and considerably increase, within the course of each day, reaching its highest daily level around 16h00 in the afternoon.

Please consider these variations when planning the timing of your excursion. In summer, during periods of high temperatures, the river will probably increase its level, especially in the afternoon; thus, its level may differ considerably between your two occasions for crossing. If you experience trouble crossing the river in the morning, do not continue, since it will likely be higher and faster in the afternoon!

Using caution and good judgment, the river crossing, though wide, is not complicated, provided you have the proper knowledge and prior experience. It is advisable to wear sneakers that you can leave at the opposite edge of the River and pick back up on your return. Change into hiking boots for the 3

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Km hike. You’ll follow the gravel road, along an easy route, with great views as you go. As you advance, you’ll notice more and bigger rocks along the sides of the road, remnants of the Glacier’s moraine, debris pushed aside by the ice, as the Glacier advanced. Reaching the overlook, you will encounter magnificent views of Calluqueo lake, the Calluqueo River and Valley, and the enormous tongue of the Glacier winding down from Mt. San Lorenzo’s peaks, high above.

Helpful tips:

• Do not cross the river on your own.• Use trekking poles to cross the river

and check how deep the river is.• Always wear sneakers or boots to cross

the river, do not try crossing the river barefoot. Bring a spare pair of shoes.

• Do not cross the river, if the level is higher than your knees.

• Remember that the water level will get higher in the afternoon, especially when it is warm or rains.

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Stage 4 Service Directory Service Directory for Stage 4.Dwell within Glaciers, Fiords, and Rivers.


4A BancoEstado “Neighbor Fund” f/Bank Card Customers. Villa O’Higgins, CH, Av. Lago Christie, www.cajavecina.cl.The State Bank of Chile, has an auxiliary ATM-like cash box called its “Neighbor Fund” f/bank card customers. This cash box has a limited supply of cash on-hand, & customers can only withdrawal small amounts of money each day. To use this service you must have a current account w/BancoEstado. Services offered to clients of the bank include: withdrawals, cash deposits, BancoEstado transfers between customer’s accounts & third party accounts, loan payments, BancoEstado cash advances & BancoEstado credit card payment, BancoEstado line of credit operations, balance inquiries & password changes, reloading of mobile phones & payment of utility bills. Plan accordingly!

4C BancoEstado “Neighbor Fund” f/Bank Card Customers.Caleta Tortel, CH, Boardwalk, Sector Base, El Rincón, www.cajavecina.cl.The BancoEstado (State Bank of Chile), has an auxiliary ATM-like cash box called its “Neighbor Fund” f/bank card customers.


4A Tourism Information Office, Villa O’HigginsVilla O’Higgins, CH, Kiosk in the southwest corner of the Plaza of Arms. (0672) 431805, [email protected]. Maps, brochures & info about tourism services & public transportation, including latest bus schedules.

4C CONAF Offices, Caleta TortelCaleta Tortel, CH, Boardwalk, Sector Rincón Alto, (0672) 211876, www.conaf.cl/conaf/seccion-conaf-aysen.html, [email protected]. The Caleta Tortel office of CONAF covers: southwestern sector, Laguna San Rafael National Park, northwest sector, Bernardo O’Higgins National Park & Katalalixar National Reserve. They have information & tips f/visitors, related to Regional Protected Areas, (especially those they manage), local flora & fauna & Patagonian Ice Fields. Be sure to visit the boardwalk behind the office, where you can enjoy their botanical garden which includes several trees, ferns & other native plants.

4C Tourism Information Office, Caleta TortelCaleta Tortel, CH, Parking Lot Sector, www.municipalidaddetortel.cl, [email protected]. Maps, brochures & info about tourism services & public transportation, including latest bus schedules.

GENERAL – SAFETY

4A Police Station, Villa O’HigginsVilla O’Higgins, CH, Carretera Austral, Southern end of Town, (0672) 567196. Investigation & response management in the case of incidents or accidents & assistance w/other aspects of travel logistics.

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4A Entrada Mayer Border Post, Villa O’HigginsVilla O’Higgins, CH, Entrada Mayer Border Control, (0672) 567189. 7 Km north of Villa O’Higgins, you will encounter a road which bears off to the right. This road follows the Mayer River Valley f/47 Km, ending at the confluence of the Mayer & Carrera Rivers & the Entrada Mayer Border Post. Officials are responsible f/controlling crossings of this border, which are infrequent & only possible if the stars align & river conditions allow crossings by horse, bicycle or on foot. Trust the officer’s advice & info about current river conditions. Officials provide accident or emergency response f/the sector; thus need to be informed of any back-country travel plans.

4C Police Station, Caleta TortelCaleta Tortel, CH Boardwalk, Sector Base, (0672) 567184. Investigation & response management in case of incidents or accidents & assistance w/other aspects of travel logistics.

GENERAL – HEALTH

4A Rural Health Post, Villa O’HigginsVilla O’Higgins, CH, Carretera Austral, middle of the block between Rio Pascua & Rio Mayer, (0672) 431883. 2 paramedics work at this rural health post, which provides basic outpatient care & medications along w/emergency & ambulance coordination.

4C Rural Health Post, Caleta TortelCaleta Tortel, CH, Parking Lot Sector, (0672) 211876 – Municipality, [email protected]. Basic Medical Services including general medicine, first-aid, outpatient care, & preventive medicine.


4A Correos de Chile (Post Office)Villa O’Higgins, CH, Corner of Río Mayer & Lago Christie, (600) 502020. Local agency w/basic postal services & office hours Monday - Friday, from 09h00 -13h00 & 15h00 - 19h00, & Saturday hours from 09h00 - 13h00.

4C Correos de Chile (Post Office)Caleta Tortel, CH, Boardwalk, Sector Base, (600) 502020. Local agency w/basic postal services & office hours Monday - Friday, from 09h00 -13h00 & 15h30 - 19h30, & Saturday hours from 09h00 - 13h00.


4A Don Carlos Air TransportVilla O’Higgins, CH, Lago O’Higgins, middle of the block between Rio Pascua & Rio Mayer, (0672) 231981, [email protected]. Local sales office. Flies small aircraft to Villa O’Higgins (CH$36.000) on Mondays & Thursdays Charter flights available to Caleta Tortel & Cochrane.

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4A Cordillera Bus StationVilla O’Higgins, CH, Lago Salto 302, (0672) 431829, [email protected]. Buses Acuario 13 provides transfers between Cochrane, Villa O’Higgins & Caleta Tortel, 2-3 times a week. In Villa O’Higgins, you can obtain updated schedules & details on how to make your reservations in the “Cordillera” Bus Station.

4A Hospedaje Patagonia Bus Stop & Local OfficeVilla O’Higgins, CH, Corner of Lago Christie & Rio Pascua, (0672) 431818, www.aguilaspatagonicas.cl, [email protected]. Buses Águilas Patagónicas provides transfers between Cochrane, Villa O’Higgins & Caleta Tortel, 2-3 times/week. In Villa O’Higgins, obtain schedules & reserve spots in “Hospedaje Patagonia” Bus Station.

4D Bus Stop & Local OfficeCaleta Tortel, CH, Parking Lot Sector, Beside the Tourism Information Kiosk. There are 3 bus companies, Buses Águilas Patagónicas & Buses Acuario 13 (both based in Coyhaique) & Minibuses Aldea (based in Cochrane), offering regular transport between Cochrane & Tortel. Among the 3, the possibility exists to travel between these towns, almost every day. Confirm current schedules & make advance reservations by visiting their offices in Coyhaique or Cochrane, in person. As well, you can visit the local Tourist Information Office to obtain updated schedules & details on how to make reservations from Caleta Tortel.

GETTING AROUND – BOAT TRANSPORT

4B Somarco Ferry, The Padre Antonio RonchiPuerto Yungay, CH, Carretera Austral S/N, Ruta 7 Sur, Ferry Terminal (02) 1966552, www.barcazas.cl, [email protected]. On the southern end of Mitchell Fiord (Puerto Bravo) there is a small visitor shelter f/travelers to escape elements. There are rest rooms. The ferry, “Padre Antonio Ronchi”, transports vehicles & passengers the length of the Fiord, dropping them at the Puerto Yungay Dock, where the Carretera Austral resumes. This ferry is free & runs 3 times/day. Arrive in plenty of time to assure space. Boat leaves south Puerto Bravo docks f/Puerto Yungay: 11h00, 13h00, & 17h00. Boat leaves north Puerto Yungay docks f/Puerto Bravo: 10h00, 12h00, & 15h00. Boat travels less often in off season when you can confirm schedule through their website.

4C The Boat, Cruz del Sur, Santiago GangaCaleta Tortel, CH, Boardwalk, Sector Rincón Bajo, (09) 56346080. Water Taxi & Special Services.


4A El Mosco Passenger TransportVilla O’Higgins, CH, Carretera Austral Km 1240, (0672) 431819, www.patagoniaelmosco.com, [email protected]. El Mosco offers shuttle service (15 passenger van), Villa O’Higgins - Caleta Tortel ($10.000+/-), December - March. Bikes are allowed. Also offer special trips in Region. Check f/prices.

4A Robinson Crusoe - Deep Patagonia TransfersVilla O’Higgins, CH, Carretera Austral Km 1240, (02) / (02) / (0672) 3341503 / 3341504 / 431909, www.robinsoncrusoe.com, [email protected] Crusoe offers top quality bus service (Private Coach) between Villa O’Higgins & Caleta Tortel (Tuesdays & Thursdays: $15.000 1-way; $25.000 round trip).

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4D Minibuses AldeaCochrane, CH, Las Golondrinas N° 339 (09) 81801962. Minibuses Aldea offers scheduled transportation between Cochrane y Caleta Tortel w/4 departures each week. Confirm times & make reservations at office in Cochrane or Caleta Tortel, in person.


4A Gas Station, Villa O’HigginsVilla O’Higgins, CH, Lago Christie Ave. - On the north end in the curve. Diesel & Gasoline sales. This is your last gas station until Cochrane!


4C Hospedaje Águilas PatagónicasCaleta Tortel, CH, Boardwalk, Sector Rincón Bajo (09) 74953251, www.aguilaspatagonicas.cl, [email protected]. Ideally situated in Rincón Bajo Sector, w/8 rooms (single, twin & double) w/private &/or shared baths. Breakfast included in price. Options for meals, regional dishes that celebrate local flavors.

4C Hospedaje Brisas del SurCaleta Tortel, CH, Boardwalk, Playa Ancha Sector, (0672) / (0672) / (09) 524929 / 214031 / 82367697, [email protected]. In Playa Ancha sector, you will find this inn w/central heating, perched on the hill. Comfortable rooms w/options f/private & shared baths. Dining room where you can enjoy Señora Valeria’s delicious recipes. Great view of the bay, relaxing family atmosphere. Here, you can share in traditions & culture of the town ($12.000/person f/triple w/shared bath; $35.000+tax f/matrimonial w/private bath).

4C Hospedaje del RíoCaleta Tortel, CH, Boardwalk, Sector Rincón, (09) 99403478, [email protected]. Family lodging ($8.000 w/o breakfast), ($10.500 w/breakfast). Parking close. Panoramic views of bay.

4C Hospedaje Don AdanCaleta Tortel, CH, Boardwalk, Sector Rincón Bajo (09) 95719474, [email protected]. Strategically located hospedaje offers singles ($9.500), doubles ($9.500/person) & matrimonials ($19.000) w/shared baths & views overlooking the Fiords of Tortel.

4C Hospedaje El ChanitoCaleta Tortel, CH, Parking Lot Sector, (09) 81819839. Small residential hospedaje ($6.000/person) that provides meals.

4C Hospedaje GiselleCaleta Tortel, CH, Boardwalk, Sector Rincón Bajo, (09) 87535554. Family hospedaje ($8.000) w/breakfast service.

4C Hospedaje PorvenirCaleta Tortel, CH, Boardwalk, Sector Junquillo, (09) 76521937, [email protected]. Family hospedaje ($6.500 to $16.000 w/breakfast), at end of boardwalks. Walk from parking lot rewards you w/the privacy of being near the beach & peaceful scenery of this secluded sector. Options f/lunch & dinner f/guests & laundry service. Near the trail head for Cerro La Bandera hike.

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4C Lodge Entre HielosCaleta Tortel, CH, Boardwalk, Sector Base, (02) / (09) 1960271 / 95793779, www.entrehielostortel.cl, [email protected] Entre Hielos Lodge ($65.000 - $70.000/night), you will enjoy a warm family atmosphere, comfortable rooms, gourmet meals prepared w/local produce, a small library brimming w/national & regional literature & w/all the information & support needed to coordinate excursions around area. Entre Hielos Lodge has 6 suites, each uniquely adorned w/art & textures that complement the natural environment. Each suite has its own bath. Reservation includes breakfast service.

4C Residencial CostaneraCaleta Tortel, CH, Boardwalk, Sector Base, (09) 66770236. Comfortable lodging ($8.000 - $10.000 w/breakfast), family atmosphere, beautiful area full of gardens & local culture. Options f/lunch & dinner.

4C Residencial EstiloCaleta Tortel, CH, Boardwalk, Sector Base, (09) 82558487, [email protected] or [email protected]. Clean accommodations, family atmosphere ($8.000 -$10.000 w/breakfast), located in heart of Caleta Tortel. Options f/lunch & dinner f/guests, locals & other visitors.

4C Residencial Hielo SurCaleta Tortel, CH, Boardwalk, Sector Rincón Bajo, (09) 5w6346080, [email protected]. If you’ve had a hard day on the road & are in need of good rest & warm soup, think of Senora Silvia as your grandmother in Patagonia. Comfortable residential lodgings ($7.500) w/typical food that incorporates traditions, knowledge & flavors of Chilean Patagonia. Offers home-made crafts & goodies she makes during winter. Can coordinate taxi boat services.

4C Residencial La SureñaCaleta Tortel, CH, Boardwalk, Sector Playa Ancha, (0672) / (0672) / (09) 214031 / 524929 / 92149807, [email protected]. Señora Berta Muñoz awaits in Sector Playa Ancha w/rural accommodations & breakfast ($7.500), plus options f/lunch & dinner. Friendly service, spectacular view of bay & the boardwalks.


4C Cabaña del RíoCaleta Tortel, CH, Boardwalk, Sector Rincón, (09) 99403478, [email protected]. Cabaña ($35.000) f/4 people, w/a living room & fully equipped kitchen, near the parking lot.

4C Cabañas Bajo PisaguaCaleta Tortel, CH, Boardwalk, Parking Lot Sector, [email protected]. For 4-6 people ($25.000 - $40.000) Living room & fully equipped kitchen. Convenient to parking.

4C Cabañas JaviCaleta Tortel, CH, Boardwalk, Sector Rincón, (09) 97907742, [email protected]. Cabaña f/6 people ($35.000 - $45.000) crafted from local ciprés de Guaitecas, near the parking lot.

4C Cabañas Río de los CiervosCaleta Tortel, CH, Boardwalk, Parking Lot Sector, (09) 95050425. Cabaña, crafted from local ciprés de Guaitecas, equipped f/6 people, near the parking lot.

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4C Cabañas ScarlettCaleta Tortel, CH, Boardwalk, Sector Rincón, (09) 82960076. Cabañas f/4-6 people w/living room & fully equipped kitchen.

WHERE TO SLEEP – CAMPING

4C Camping at the Beach (Free)Caleta Tortel, CH, Boardwalk, Sector Junquillo, (0672) 573203, www.municipalidaddetortel.cl, [email protected]. Free Municipal Camping Area on wide beach w/playground, grills, swimming area & public bathroom (no showers). Beautiful panoramic view of the fiord.

4D Shelter & Camping La AraucariaCochrane, CH, Los Ñadis Sector, Barrancoso River Bridge, take the road to the right, 3 Km, until the Camping Area. Radio HF frequencies: 3.789 & 4.580, (0672) / (09) 522326 / 81812887, [email protected]. Camping Area w/a sleeping shelter, baths w/hot showers, & access to a kitchen f/cooking. Offer crafts, fresh produce, Asado al Palo & horseback excursions to El Saltón del Baker & Corte San Carlos.

4D Shelter & Camping Fundo Los CipresesCochrane, CH, Los Cipreses Ranch, Ñadis River Sector, Carretera Austral, Radio HF frequencies: 3.789 & 4.580. (0672) 522326, [email protected]. Small shelter w/living room, fully equipped kitchen, quad-style bedroom (2 bunk beds) bath w/hot water showers, & beautiful meadow f/camping. The Fundo also offers a unique service to its visitors; a “rural kiosk” where you can buy jars of homemade jam, beverages, freshly baked bread, vegetables & “make your own” break kits w/everything you need to prepare bread in the wood-burning oven of their refuge.. Patagonia-style quincho (covered cooking/party hut); in this case, built around a tree w/great artistic touches. Settle into the relaxing beauty of the 100% natural landscape.

4E Camping, Fundo San LorenzoCochrane, CH, Sector San Lorenzo, Radio HF frequencies: 3.789 & 4.580. (0672) / (09) 522326 / 95619963 / 75618719, [email protected], [email protected]. You can meet Luis Soto at his son’s house in Cochrane or the crossing of the side road to the San Lorenzo sector with the Carretera Austral. The high mountain Base Camp at Fundo San Lorenzo is about 90 minutes by vehicle, from Cochrane. Protected Camping Area, w/hot water showers, & use of their Patagonia-style quincho, which provides a covered cooking pavilion. Base-camp de Agostini mid-mountain Sleeping Shelter at base of San Lorenzo. Contact prior to arrival to make reservations.


4C Café & Snack Kiosk El PeregrinoPuerto Yungay, CH, Beside the Dock in Puerto Yungay, (09) 84434320. Francisco Velásquez & Marta Inés Nahuel are the owners of the tiny café & kiosk beside the docks in Puerto Yungay. While many travelers simply follow other vehicles departing the ferry after crossing the Mitchell Fiord, we suggest you pull to the side & park f/a few minutes, giving traffic time to disappear so you can experience the road ahead w/o distractions. Visit El Peregrino & try delicious homemade treats, e.g., a pie, similar to lemon meringue, but made w/Nalca, also called Pangue (gunnera tinctoria). This plant with huge ears resembling umbrellas or elephant ears are prolific in the wetter areas of this zone. Don’t miss it! Clean rest rooms, great views, handmade crafts, delicious sandwiches & interesting conversations to be had, all at this easily missed treasure within an Undiscovered Patagonia.

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4C Café & Bakery del RíoCaleta Tortel, CH, Boardwalk, Sector Rincón Bajo, (09) 99403478, [email protected]. Small family restaurant w/daily menu. Reservations appreciated (stop by during the morning) so that they can be well prepared. Fresh-baked bread f/take-out.

4C Café El ChanitoCaleta Tortel, CH, Parking Lot Sector, (09) 81819839. Señora Ana will prepare & sell simple meals (typical dishes) from her small residential hospedaje.

4C Gastronomy at the Lodge Entre HielosCaleta Tortel, CH, Boardwalk, Sector Base, (02) / (09) 1960271 / 95793779, www.entrehielostortel.cl, [email protected] room with open kitchen concept, distributed in typical Patagonian style. Cozy atmosphere surrounds you in Guaitecas Cypress. Boxed lunches ($6.000), & the option f/guests to join us f/gourmet dinner ($15.000), based on local bounty: organic vegetables from Caleta Tortel greenhouses, house specialty marmalades & jams using native fruits from local orchards. Frequent features: Baker River salmon, merluza from the Fiords, local Bravo River mutton & beef & Puerto Edén king crab. Check availability in advance. Spaces limited & guests of Lodge have first options!

4C Restaurant El MiradorCaleta Tortel, CH, Boardwalk, Sector Base, [email protected]. Centrally located restaurant w/water views offers opportunity to share Tortelino culture, w/menu based on rural Patagonian tastes & dishes typical of area, and a mix of visitors & locals.

4C Restaurant El PeregrinoCaleta Tortel, CH, Boardwalk, Sector Yungay. Regional cuisine, w/dishes such as beef tenderloin, stews, pastas & sandwiches. Daily specials. Reservations appreciated (stop by during the morning) so that they can be well prepared.

4C Restaurant El Rey del CiprésCaleta Tortel, CH, Boardwalk, Sector Base, (67) 211876, [email protected]. Daily menu. Reservations appreciated (stop by during the morning) so that they can be well prepared.

4C Restaurant El Rincón del VentisqueroCaleta Tortel, CH, Boardwalk, Sector Rincón Alto, (09) 77585961, [email protected]. Opportunity to share Tortelino culture, enjoying a daily menu w/meals typical of the area. Reservations appreciated (stop by during the morning) so that they can be well prepared.

4C Restaurant Sabores LocalesCaleta Tortel, CH, Boardwalk, Sector Rincón Bajo, (09) 90873064, [email protected]. Favorite w/both visitors & Tortelinos! Casual atmosphere. Innovative use of Patagonian flavors. Tip: Sign is hidden in bushes. Keep close watch & don’t pass entrance leading up to restaurant! Mix of local dishes & original modern, healthy recipes, developed by owner, Maritza Reyes. Options f/vegetarians, using organic vegetables from Caleta Tortel greenhouses.

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4A Almacén BrunyVilla O’Higgins, CH, Corner of Los Ñadis & Rio Bravo, (0672) 431805, [email protected] small supermarket that offers the opportunity to buy basic supplies such as cold cuts, cheese, bread, coffee, tea, yerba mate & a limited variety of vegetables & fruits.

4A Almacén CordilleraVilla O’Higgins, CH, Lago Salto 302, (0672) 431829, [email protected]. A small supermarket that offers the opportunity to buy basic supplies such as cold cuts, cheese, bread, coffee, tea, yerba mate & a limited variety of vegetables & fruits.

4A Almacén Don PepeVilla O’Higgins, CH, Lago O’Higgins, middle of the block between Los Ñadis & Rio Bravo, (0672) 431805, [email protected]. A small supermarket that offers the opportunity to buy basic supplies such as cold cuts, cheese, bread, coffee, tea, yerba mate & a limited variety of vegetables & fruits.

4A Almacén VentisqueroVilla O’Higgins, CH, Lago Christie, middle of the block between Rio Pascua & Rio Mayer, (0672) 431805, [email protected]. A small supermarket that offers the opportunity to buy basic supplies such as cold cuts, cheese, bread, coffee, tea, yerba mate & a limited variety of vegetables & fruits.

4A San Gabriel ProvisionsVilla O’Higgins, CH, Lago O’Higgins 300, (0672) 431821, [email protected]. San Gabriel Store, located next to the restaurant, offers food & prepares picnics & boxed lunches to take with you on the road.

4C Almacén Rio BakerCaleta Tortel, CH, Boardwalk, Sector Rincón Bajo, (09) 56544346.A small supermarket that offers the opportunity to buy basic supplies such as cold cuts, cheese, bread, coffee, tea, yerba mate & a limited variety of vegetables & fruits.

4C ECA (Agricultural Commerce Store)Caleta Tortel, CH, Boardwalk, Sector Base, (09) 77585961. A small supermarket that offers the opportunity to buy basic supplies such as cold cuts, cheese, bread, coffee, tea, yerba mate & a limited variety of vegetables & fruits.

GASTRONOMY - BAKERIES (PANADERIAS)

4C Café & Bakery del RíoCaleta Tortel, CH, Boardwalk, Sector Rincón Bajo, (09) 99403478, [email protected]. This small café offers fresh, home-made bread f/takeout.

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GASTRONOMY – TO GO

4C Café & Snack Kiosk El PeregrinoPuerto Yungay, CH, Beside the Dock in Puerto Yungay, (09) 84434320. Don’t miss it! Clean rest rooms, great views, handmade crafts, delicious sandwiches & interesting conversations to be had, all at this easily missed treasure within an Undiscovered Patagonia.

4C Foods To Go (Al Paso) el PatagónCaleta Tortel, CH, Boardwalk, Sector Base, (09) 56002560. Comida al Paso el Patagón offers fast food take-out, w/sandwiches, empanadas, hot dogs, tortas fritas & chaparitas (hot dogs wrapped in pastry dough - think “pig in the blanket”).

4D Fundo Los Cipreses Rural KioskCochrane, CH, Los Cipreses Ranch, Ñadis River Sector, Carretera Austral, Radio HF frequencies: 3.789 & 4.580. (0672) 522326, [email protected]. The Fundo offers a unique service to its visitors; a “rural kiosk” where you can buy jars of homemade jam, beverages, bread, vegetables & “make your own” break kits w/everything you need to prepare bread in the wood-burning oven of their refuge.


4A Entre Patagones ExcursionsVilla O’Higgins, CH, Carretera Austral, near the north access of Villa O’Higgins, (0672) / (09) 431810 / 66215046, www.entrepatagones.cl, [email protected]. Alonso Díaz (Coya), of Entre Patagones Cabañas & Restaurant, is also a long-time trekking guide in the area. Having grown up here, he knows the routes for climbing to glaciers, like the El Tigre Glacier. Check out details of this great hike in the article on the route of the El Tigre Glacier. Transportation included.

4A Tsonek ExpeditionsVilla O’Higgins, CH, Carretera Austral, 1.6 Km north of Villa O’Higgins, (09) 78929695, www.tsonek.cl, [email protected] to popular O’Higgins trail destination, such as El Tigre Glacier trekking. Email for details.

4A Villa O’Higgins ExpeditionsVilla O’Higgins, CH, Carretera Austral Km 1240, (0672) 431821 / 431822, www.villaohiggins.com, [email protected]. Travel agency & tour operator who offers day hikes to the El Tigre Glacier.

4C Pedro Rodriguez, Regional GuideTortel, CH, Parking Lot Sector, (09) 97892489, www.aumen.cl, [email protected]. Official guide f/the Laguna Caiquenes Conservation Area. Check out the article on this hidden gem and arrange f/him to meet your group at the site when traveling to Caleta Tortel from Puerto Yungay. You can also find him in Tortel & travel the short distance to Laguna Caiquenes together for this day full of hiking, learning & immersion in the incredible nature in the area.

4E Fundo San LorenzoCochrane, CH, Sector San Lorenzo, Radio HF frequencies: 3.789 & 4.580. (0672) / (09) 522326 / 95619963 / 75618719, [email protected] or [email protected]. Meet Luis Soto at his son’s house in Cochrane or the crossing of the Carretera Austral with the side route to Sector San Lorenzo to head for this high mountain Base Camp at Fundo San Lorenzo, about 90 minutes by vehicle, from Cochrane. Luis & his wife, Lucy Gómez, offer trekking around the San Lorenzo base & to their mid-mountain sleeping shelter. Contact prior to your arrival for reservations.

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4E Kalem Adventure OutfittersPuerto Guadal, CH, Los Alerces 557 , (0672) / (09) 431289 / 88112535, www.facebook.com/kalem.turismoaventura, [email protected]. Regional hiking & mountaineering Specialist w/San Lorenzo summits & Calluqueo Glacier expeditions.


4C Excursions aboard the “Aqua 1” Juan RuizCaleta Tortel, CH, Boardwalk, Sector Base (09) 82477140, [email protected]. Captain Juan Ruiz offers these excursions aboard the Aqua : Isla de los Muertos, Ventisquero Montt, Ventisquero Steffen, Bay of Tortel, Historic Descent of the Baker River.

4C Excursions aboard the “Delia del Carmen”, Paulo LanderosCaleta Tortel, CH, Boardwalk, Sector Playa Ancha, (09) 82386781, [email protected]. Captain Paulo Landeros offers these excursions aboard the Delia del Carmen: Isla de los Muertos, Bay of Tortel, Ventisquero Montt, Ventisquero Steffen, Tortel - San Carlos.

4C Excursions aboard the “El Mordelón”, Miguel JaraCaleta Tortel, CH, Boardwalk, Sector Playa Ancha, (09) 56379774, [email protected]. Captain Miguel Jara offers these excursions aboard the Mordelón: Isla de los Muertos, Ventisquero Montt, Ventisquero Steffen, Bay of Tortel.

4C Excursions aboard the “Libertad”, Luis LanderosCaleta Tortel, CH, Boardwalk, Sector Base, (09) 66835392, [email protected] Luis Landeros offers these excursions aboard the Libertad: Isla de los Muertos, Ventisquero Montt, Ventisquero Steffen, Bay of Tortel, Historic Descent of the Baker River, Pascua River.

4C Excursions aboard the “Paz Austral”, Noel VidalCaleta Tortel, CH, Administration in the Entre Hielos Lodge, Boardwalk, Sector Base, (09) 95995730 / 95793779, www.entrehielostortel.cl/pazaustral/index.html, [email protected]. Captain Noel Vidal offers, “Our family has been offering tourism services in the community of Caleta Tortel for 5+ years. We provide excursions aboard the Paz Austral, which was designed & built, by hand, by our family, entirely in ciprés of the Guaitecas. We provide a comfortable & cozy vessel, to tour the lush nature of the channels & islands, protected from the rain & wind that are characteristic of this part of the world. We have a number of regular circuits developed, including the historic Baker River descent, a visit to the Isla de los Muertos, exploration of the Ventisquero Steffen & a trip to the amazing Katalalixar National Reserve. You may incorporate some sea kayaking into your tour or design a special itinerary, based on your interests. We have all the safety equipment required by the maritime authority & solar energy to charge our satellite communications equipment.”

4C Excursions aboard the “Relámpago” Eladio FloresCaleta Tortel, CH, Boardwalk, Sector Playa Ancha, (09) 84615833. Captain Eladio Flores, offers these excursions aboard the Relámpago: Isla de los Muertos, Ventisquero Montt, Ventisquero Steffen, Bay of Tortel, Historic Descent of the Baker River.

4C Excursions aboard the “Tempano” Claudio LanderosCaleta Tortel, CH, Boardwalk, Sector Playa Ancha, (09) 77042651, [email protected]. Captain Claudio Landeros, offers these excursions aboard the Tempano: Isla de los Muertos, Ventisquero Montt, Ventisquero Steffen, Bay of Tortel.

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4E Kalem Adventure OutfittersPuerto Guadal, CH, Los Alerces 557, (0672) / (09) 431289 / 88112535, www.facebook.com/kalem.turismoaventura, [email protected]. Regional mountaineering specialist offering boating around the Calluqueo Glacier sector.


4E Fundo San LorenzoCochrane, CH, Sector San Lorenzo, Radio HF frequencies: 3.789 & 4.580. (0672) / (09) 522326 / 95619963 / 75618719, [email protected] or [email protected]. Spend the morning on this overland 4x4 tour from Cochrane through the Sector of San Lorenzo to the high mountain base camp at Fundo San Lorenzo. Here, Luis & his wife, Lucy Gómez, offer trekking & horseback riding & can arrange & prepare a Patagonian Asado al Palo, complete with accordion.


4C Excursions aboard the “Aqua 1”, Juan RuizCaleta Tortel, CH, Boardwalk, Sector Base (09) 82477140, [email protected]. Cultural/History Excursions aboard the Aqua 1, captained by Juan Ruiz, to the following sectors: Isla de los Muertos, Historic Descent of the Baker River.

4C Excursions aboard the “Delia del Carmen”, Paulo LanderosCaleta Tortel, CH, Boardwalk, Sector Playa Ancha, (09) 82386781, [email protected]. Cultural/History Excursions aboard the Delia del Carmen, captained by Paulo Landeros, to the following sectors: Isla de los Muertos.

4C Excursions aboard the “El Mordelón”, Miguel JaraCaleta Tortel, CH, Boardwalk, Sector Playa Ancha, (09) 56379774, [email protected]. Cultural/History Excursions aboard the Mordelón, captained by Miguel Jara, to the following sectors: Isla de los Muertos.

4C Excursions aboard the “Libertad”, Luis LanderosCaleta Tortel, CH, Boardwalk, Sector Base, (09) 66835392, [email protected]. Cultural/History Excursions aboard the Libertad, captained by Luis Landeros, to the following sectors: Isla de los Muertos, Historic Descent of the Baker River.

4C Excursions aboard the “Paz Austral”, Noel VidalCaleta Tortel, CH, Reception Area, Entre Hielos Lodge, Boardwalk, Sector Base, (09) 95995730 / 95793779, www.entrehielostortel.cl/pazaustral/index.html, [email protected]. Cultural/History Excursions aboard the Paz Austral, designed & hand built by Vidal - Hargreaves family, entirely in ciprés of the Guaitecas. Circuits offered by Captain Noel Vidal include: Historic Baker River Descent & a Visit to the Isla de los Muertos. Boat equipped w/all safety equipment required by maritime authority & solar energy to charge satellite communications equipment.

4C Excursions aboard the “Relámpago”, Eladio FloresCaleta Tortel, CH, Boardwalk, Sector Playa Ancha, (09) 84615833. Cultural/History Excursions aboard the Relámpago, captained by Eladio Flores, to the following sectors: Isla de los Muertos, Historic Descent of the Baker River.

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4C Excursions aboard the “Tempano”, Claudio LanderosCaleta Tortel, CH, Boardwalk, Sector Playa Ancha, (09) 77042651, [email protected]. Cultural/History Excursions aboard the Tempano, captained by Claudio Landeros, to the following sectors: Isla de los Muertos.

4D Shelter & Camping La AraucariaCochrane, CH, Los Ñadis Sector, Barrancoso River Bridge, take the road to the right, 3 Km, until the Camping Area. Radio HF frequencies: 3.789 & 4.580. (0672) / (09) 522326 / 81812887, [email protected]. The owners of this rural camping area sell crafts & produce, grown on their farm. Ask about their options for a Patagonian Asado al Palo & horseback rides to El Saltón del Baker & Corte San Carlos.

4D Fundo Los CipresesCochrane, CH, Los Cipreses Ranch, Ñadis River Sector, Carretera Austral, Radio HF frequencies: 3.789 & 4.580. (0672) 522326, [email protected]. At Fundo Los Cipreses you will find a unique quincho built around a tree w/great artistic touches. It’s a great place to take a rest after your adventures, discover a bit of farm life near the end of the earth & celebrate your adventures with a great Asado al Palo Patagon. Surrounded by high Andean peaks, hanging glaciers & amazing waterfalls, Fundo Los Cipreses is situated in a valley bounded by the confluence of the Baker & Ñadis rivers which wind along the edges of the landscape. Reserve the refuge, Asados & horseback riding at least 12 hours in advance!

4E Fundo San LorenzoCochrane, CH, Sector San Lorenzo, Radio HF frequencies: 3.789 & 4.580. (0672) / (09) 522326 / 95619963 / 75618719, [email protected] or [email protected]. Luis Soto & wife, Lucy Gómez, offer horseback riding around their sector of Cerro San Lorenzo with a mixture of true gaucho & hauso styles. They prepare Patagonian Asado al Palo at their Base Camp’s quincho, complete with accordion. Contact prior to your arrival to make reservations.


4A Adolfo Segundo GuinaoVilla O’Higgins, CH, Río Bravo 206, on the corner w/Lago Christie, (0672) 431873, [email protected]. Recreational fishing at Cisnes, Ciervo & Negro Lakes ($60.000/day).

4A Entre Patagones ExcursionsVilla O’Higgins, CH, Carretera Austral, near the north access of Villa O’Higgins, (0672) / (09) 431810 / 66215046, www.entrepatagones.cl, [email protected]. Alonso Díaz (Coya), of Entre Patagones Cabañas & Restaurant, is a long-time fly-fishing guide in the area. Having grown up here, he knows spectacular fishing spots. He has a cataraft & vehicle & gear for 2 fishermen.

4A The Native Trout - Nelson HenríquezVilla O’Higgins, CH, Lago Cisnes 105, (0672) 431820, [email protected]. The Native Trout is a small business that focuses on fly-fishing activities. Excursions include boat rides, tours of the El Mosco Sector, & food services during the tour. Groups of 1 - 4 persons.

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4A Tsonek ExpeditionsVilla O’Higgins, CH, Carretera Austral, 1.6 Km north of the entrance to Villa O’Higgins, (09) 78929695, www.tsonek.cl, [email protected]. In addition to bird watching or hiking, Mauricio Melgarejo, the Director of Tsonek Expeditions, offers other tours such as fishing with an emphasis on entomology. Ask for details.

4A Villa O’Higgins ExpeditionsVilla O’Higgins, CH, Camino Austral Km 1240, (0672) 431821 / 431822, www.villaohiggins.com, [email protected]. Villa O’Higgins Expeditions offers a wide range of tours & expeditions, including fishing tours.


4C Pedro Rodriguez Regional GuideTortel, CH, Parking Lot Sector, (09) 97892489, www.aumen.cl, [email protected]. Official guide f/the Laguna Caiquenes Conservation Area, assisting ongoing scientific research including a study of huemul (hippocamelus bisulcus) behavior, identification & characterization of new amphibian species, & a census of mosses, fungi, lichens, & other native flora. Organize a trip w/Pedro to experience this hidden treasure. Arrange f/him to meet your group as you are traveling from Puerto Yungay or find him in Tortel & travel the short distance to Laguna Caiquenes together. Promises to be a day full of hiking, learning & immersion in the incredible nature in the area.


4D Shelter & Camping La AraucariaCochrane, CH, Los Ñadis Sector, Barrancoso River Bridge, take the road to the right, 3 Km, until the Camping Area. Radio HF frequencies: 3.789 & 4.580. (0672) / (09) 522326 / 81812887, [email protected]. Horseback rides to the sector of El Saltón del Baker & Corte San Carlos.

4D Fundo Los CipresesCochrane, CH, Los Cipreses Ranch, Ñadis River Sector, Carretera Austral, Radio HF frequencies: 3.789 & 4.580. (0672) 522326, [email protected]. At Fundo Los Cipreses you can arrange horseback rides to the sector of El Saltón del Baker & Corte San Carlos. Reserve at least 12 hours in advance so that they will be prepared f/your arrival!

4E Fundo San LorenzoCochrane, CH, Sector San Lorenzo, Radio HF frequencies: 3.789 & 4.580. (0672) / (09) 522326 / 95619963 / 75618719, [email protected] or [email protected]. Luis Soto & wife, Lucy Gómez, offer horseback riding around their sector of Cerro San Lorenzo. Contact prior to your arrival to make reservations.

4E Kalem Adventure OutfittersPuerto Guadal, CH, Los Alerces 557, (0672) / (09) 431289 / 88112535, www.facebook.com/kalem.turismoaventura, [email protected]. Regional mountaineering specialist w/horseback riding in San Lorenzo Sector & Calluqueo Glacier.

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AActivities & Excursions [See also: Route of the Undiscovered Patagonia Circuit; Safe Travels].

A boat ride to the Dark Side. 246 A walk to the Cisnes Lagoon in Patago-nia Park. 79 Backpacking through Huemul country. 85 Back roads tour of the Austral Steppe. 91 Calling the curious! It’s time to break out those binoculars. 198 Catch a Tiger by the Tail. 231 Celebrate Argentina’s National Gnocchi Day. 95 Chorrillo del Salto Waterfall Hike. 139 Cochrane offers fantastic recreational fishing. 68 Cooking on the road Argentinean style, “Gnocchi with Salsa Tuco”. 96 Craving a yummy breakfast and a great Java fix? 137 Cruise O’Higgins/San Martin Lake to the O’Higgins Glacier. 180 Day hike to Cerro Mirador in the San Lorenzo Range. 268 Day Hike to the Mosco River Glacier. 185 Day Hike to the Piedras Blancas Glacier Overlook. 142 Discover the earliest human societies in South America. 125 Encounter Hidden Treasures. 233 Enter Father Antonio Ronchi’s world where anything is possible and every-one pitches in. 202 Experience the Baker River. 73 Explore the Casa de Piedra Area in Patagonia Park. 86 Explore the Northern Patagonia Ice Field and the Steffen Glacier. 249 Explore the Tamango National Reserve with this day hike. 63 Explore the Tamango National Reserve with this great multisport day-circuit! 71 Explore Viedma Lake & Glacier. 145

Heat up your journey. 54 Hike the Altas Lagoons circuit in Pata-gonia Park. 81 Hike to Capri Lagoon, Poincenot Camping and the Blanco River. 140 Hike to De los Tres Lagoon (Extension of the Trek to Capri Lagoon, Poincenot Camping and the Blanco River). 141 Hike to the Cerro Torre Lagoon and Overlook. 143 Hike to the Overlook of Cerro Santi-ago. 184 Indulge in the Grand Empanada Tour. 146 Join the elite few who have biked the Carretera Austral of Chile. 194 Kayaking on the Cochrane River. 67 Multisport adventure to the Calluqueo Glacier. 269 On horseback, to El Saltón and Corte San Carlos. 254 “Orienteer” your way along the board-walks. 241 Prepare Patagonian-style tortas fritas and Chilean pebre on your own. 192 Prepare your own Empanadas with a Patagonian style. 148 Prepare your own home-baked bread, Patagonia style. 252 Reach the summit of Cerro Leon in Perito Moreno National Park. 128 Ride along with Father Ronchi. 204 Sail turquoise waters through history. 235 Searching for solitude and pristine wilderness? This detour’s for you. 127 Seeking solitude and pure nature? Head to Los Huemules. 144 Summer in Patagonia means it’s time for an Asado al Palo. 261 Summit Cerro La Bandera in a snap! 244 Take a walk through Cochrane’s past and present. 50 Tour the Southern Patagonia Ice Field and the Jorge Montt Glacier. 247 Treat yourself to a bit of high cuisine in the middle of the Austral Steppe. 132 Visit Fundo Los Cipreses at Los Ñadis. 251

Topic Index

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Walk the cemetery circuit in Patagonia Park. 80 Wind through the valleys of gauchos.

Air Transport 31, 152, 208, 273

BBajo Caracoles, AR. 46, 115, 116, 125 Bakeries (Panaderias) 109, 137, 163, 279 Banking Services 29, 98, 150, 207, 272 Bernardo O’Higgins National Park [See also: Birds; Glaciers; Guides & Excursions; Huemul; Safe Travels].

Boat Excursions to the Jorge Montt Glacier 281 CONAF Offices Caleta Tortel 272 Cruise O’Higgins/San Martin Lake to the O’Higgins Glacier. 180 L/M Quetru Ship - Ferry for Crossing Lago O’Higgins/San Martin 208 Robinson Crusoe - Deep Patagonia Excursions 214 Tour the Southern Patagonia Ice Field and the Jorge Montt Glacier. 247 Welcome to Caleta Tortel - Unique Patagonian Heritage. 237Bike (Guides & Rentals) 111, 169, 217 Bike (Logistics, Supplies, Services & Repairs) 34, 101, 154, 209 Bike Touring [See also: Bike Guides & Rentals; Bike Logistics; Safe Travels; Route of the Undiscovered Patagonia Circuit]. Bike Considerations for the Laguna/Lago del Desierto trail in route to Chile. 178 Bike touring along Patagonia roads. 20 Services Before & After the Circuit - Bicycles 34 Side Routes & Tours. 73, 91, 125, 127, 144, 194, 229, 251, 267, 269

Birds (Life Zones)Feugian Lifezone 196 Patagonian Lifezone 197

Birds (Watching) 57,63, 73, 79, 130, 183, 195, 198, 200, 215, 254 Birds (Resources)

Costa y Punta, 2009. Field Guide to the Flora & Fauna of the Glaciares National Park. 201

Inform yourself about the Bird Life-zones in the Circuit. 196 Jaramillo, 2003. Birds of Chile, printed by Princeton Field Guides 201 Rise to the challenge with these bird watching basics. 200 “The Birds of Chile”, Araya & Chester, 1993 196 www.avesdechile.cl. 201

Birds (Species)Andean condor (vultur gryphus) 128, 198, 199, 236 austral parakeet (enicognathus ferru-gineus) 57, 197 austral rail (rallus antarcticus) 155, 168 black-crowned night heron (nycicorax nycticorax) 57 black necked swan (cygnus melancory-phus) 57, 197, 199, 223 bronze-winged duck (speculanas specu-laris), 57, 79 buffed-neck ibis (theristicus caudatus) 80, 254 cachudito (anairetes parulus) 198 carancho (caracara plancus) 198, 199 Chilean flamingo (phoenicopterus chilensis) 4, 42, 197 Chilean or brown pintail (anas georgica spinicauda) 57, 79 churrín del sur (scytalopus magellani-cus) 198 cometocino patagónico (phyrgilus patagonicus) 198 crested caracara (caracara cheriway) 197 diucón (xolmis pyrope) 198 eagle (geranoaetus melanoleucus) 43, 57, 74, 81 flightless steamer duck (tachyeres pteneres) 57, 196 flying steamer duck (tachyeres pata-chonicus) 57, 196 great grebe (podiceps major) 57 harrier (buteo polyosoma) 198 hooded grebe (podiceps gallardoi) 155, 168 imperial cormorant (leucocarbo atri-ceps or phalacrocorax atriceps), 196 kestrel (falco sparverius) 198 lesser rhea, Darwin’s rhea, ñandú, or rhea Americana (pterocnemia pennata) 18, 20, 120

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Magellanic diving petrel (pelecanoides magellani) 196 Magellanic or black woodpecker (cam-pephilus magellanicus) 57, 144, 195, 196, 198, 199 Patagonian yellow finch (sicalis lebruni) 197 ringed kingfisher (ceryle torquata) 57, 195 ruddy-headed goose (chloephaga rubidiceps) 43, 57, 80, 196, 197, 236 short-billed miner (geositta antarctica) 197 southern hued hued (pteroptochos tarnii) 198, 199 southern lapwing (vanellus chilensis) 57, 80, 254 Strickland’s snipe (gallinago stricklandii) 197 yellow-billed teal (anas flavirostris) 57, 79, 236

Boat ExcursionsA boat ride to the Dark Side. 246 Cruise O’Higgins/San Martin Lake to the O’Higgins Glacier. 180 Experience the Baker River. 73 Explore the Northern Patagonia Ice Field and the Steffen Glacier. 249 Explore the Tamango National Reserve with this great multisport day-circuit! 71 Explore Viedma Lake & Glacier. 145 Kayaking on the Cochrane River. 67 Planning your water-based activities in Patagonia. 65 Sail turquoise waters through history. 235 Tour the Southern Patagonia Ice Field and the Jorge Montt Glacier. 247 Trekking the shores of Laguna/Lago del Desierto in route to Chile. 178

Boats & Captains (Excursions) 109, 166, 214, 281 Boat Transport 274 [See also: Route of the Undiscovered Patagonia Circuit - Stages 3 & 4].

El Huemul Ferry 178, 208 El Quetru 178, 208 Padre Antonio Ronchi Ferry 204, 274

Borders & Border CrossingsAnimal and Agricultural Control 89 Communication and medical services.

24 Crossing borders between Chile and Argentina. 88 Crossing borders in private vehicles 89 Customs Control 89 General Safety Services for Stage 1 99 Immigration Control 88 Overview of Stage 1 40 Overview of Stage 3 173 Role of Security Control 88 Some Practical Advice for Border Crossings 90 The Route of the Undiscovered Pata-gonia Circuit. 6 Thinking of traveling with a pet? 27 Trekking the shores of Laguna/Lago del Desierto in route to Chile. 178

Bus Transport 22, 32, 100, 152, 208, 274

CCabañas 104, 158, 211, 276 Caiquenes Lagoon Conservation Area [See also: Birds; Guides & Excursions; Huemul; Safe Travels].

Encounter Hidden Treasures. 233 Pedro Rodriguez Regional Guide 284 Caleta Tortel, CH [See also: Route of the Undiscovered Patagonia Circuit - Stage 4]. A boat ride to the Dark Side. 246 Encounter Hidden Treasures. 233 Explore the Northern Patagonia Ice Field and the Steffen Glacier. 249 “Orienteer” your way along the board-walks. 241 Map of the Town 240 Ride along with Father Ronchi. 204 Summit Cerro La Bandera in a snap! 244 Tour the Southern Patagonia Ice Field and the Jorge Montt Glacier. 247 Welcome to Caleta Tortel - Unique Patagonian Heritage. 237 Camping & Shelters 105, 159, 212, 277

Chauffeurs & Transfers 33, 100, 153, 274 Chilean National Fishing & Aquaculture Service (SERNAPESCA). 30 Cochrane, CH [See also: Route of the Undiscovered Patagonia Circuit - Stage 1].

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Celebrate the Route of the Huemul Festival. 82 Check out beautiful views in Tamango National Reserve. 57 Cochrane has always been a city on the move. 47 Cochrane offers fantastic recreational fishing. 68 Day hike to Cerro Mirador in the San Lorenzo Range. 268 Experience the Baker River. 73 Heat up your journey with a touch of authentic Patagonian culture. 54 Introducing Patagonia’s newest Park. 75 Kayaking on the Cochrane River. 67 Map of Town 49 Multisport adventure to the Calluqueo Glacier. 269 On horseback, to El Saltón and Corte San Carlos. 254 Summer in Patagonia means it’s time for an Asado al Palo. 261 Take a walk through Cochrane’s past and present. 50 Visit Fundo Los Cipreses at Los Ñadis. 251 You’re finally ready. Meet marvelous Mt. San Lorenzo! 267

Communication and medical services. 24 CONAF (National Forestry Corporation of Chile)

CONAF Caleta Tortel 272 CONAF Cochrane 98 CONAF Regional Offices in Coyhai-que 30

Conservación Patagónica [See Patagonia Park]. Conservation Areas [See Caiquenes Lagoon Conservation Area; San Lorenzo Conservation Area]. Coyhaique, CH 7, 29 Cueva de las Manos. [See UNESCO World Heritage Site Cueva de las Manos]. Culture & Cultural [See History & Culture].

DDay Driving Circuits & Short Detours

Back roads tour of the Austral Steppe. 91

Discover the earliest human societies in South America. 125 Experience the Baker River. 73 Multisport adventure to the Calluqueo Glacier. 269 Ride along with Father Ronchi. 204 Searching for solitude and pristine wilderness? This detour’s for you. 127 Seeking solitude and pure nature? Head to Los Huemules. 144 Visit Fundo Los Cipreses at Los Ñadis. 251 Wind through the valleys of gauchos. 229 You’re finally ready. Meet marvelous Mt. San Lorenzo! 267

Didymo Algae (didymosphenia geminata) 68

EEl Calafate, AR 7, 29 El Chaltén, AR [See also: Route of the Undiscovered Patagonia Circuit - Stage 2].

Craving a yummy breakfast and a great Java fix? 137 Indulge in the Grand Empanada Tour. 146 Seeking solitude and pure nature? Head to Los Huemules. 144 Trekking in the northern zone of Los Glaciares National Park. 138 Map of Town 136 Trekking the shores of Laguna/Lago del Desierto in route to Chile. 178 Welcome to El Chaltén, the Trekking

Capital of Argentina. 134 Estancias [See Farms (Fundos) & Estancias].

FFarms (Fundos) & Estancias [See also: Route of the Undiscovered Patagonia Circuit].

Candelario Mansilla Estancia 176, 209 Cueva de los Manos Estancia 125, 154 Cueva de las Manos Estancia Tours 167 El Cóndor Estancia 120, 155 El Menelik Estancia 154

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Fundo La Araucaria 277, 283 Fundo Los Cipreses 227, 251, 252, 254, 277, 283, 284 Rural Kiosk 280 Fundo San Lorenzo 267, 268, 277, 280, 282, 283, 284 La Angostura Estancia 130, 155 Laguna Verde Estancia 131, 155 La Oriental Estancia 127, 154 La Quinta Estancia 55, 121, 135, 156 Las Margaritas Estancia 229 Los Granaderos Estancia 130, 155 Heritage Tour, A Rebellious Patagonia: Evolution of Human Rights in Patagonia Argentina 166 Los Huemules Estancia Nature Reserve 60, 144, 151 Posadas Estancia 93 Suyai Estancia 45, 46 Valley Chacabuco Estancia 75, 76, 77, 78, 80

Farms (Fundos) y Estancias (Related Articles & Activities)

A new legacy for an ancient Valley. 76 Back roads tour of the Austral Steppe. 91 Cochrane has always been a city on the move. 47 Enjoy a Tabla at the Piedra Clavada. 133 How to prepare a Patagonian Asado al Palo. 263 On horseback, to El Saltón and Corte San Carlos. 254 Posadas, pastas, and petroglyphs await in Hipolito Yrigoyen. 93 Prepare your own home-baked bread, Patagonia style. 252 Recharge in the heart of the Austral Steppe. 129 Summer in Patagonia means it’s time for an Asado al Palo. 261 Welcome to El Chaltén, the Trekking Capital of Argentina. 134 Wind through the valleys of gauchos. 284 You’re finally ready. Meet marvelous Mt. San Lorenzo! 267

Father Antonio Ronchi 181, 230Achen Theater Company Radio Theatre Podcasts 206 Enter Father Antonio Ronchi’s world

where anything is possible and every-one pitches in. 202 “Orienteer” your way along the board-walks. 241 Padre Ronchi Museum of Villa O’Hig-gins 183, 215 Padre Ronchi Works Foundation 30 Puerto Yungay 205 Ride along with Father Ronchi. 204 Sector Los Ñadis 206 Short Bike Circuit: Villa O’Higgins to the Chapel Built by Padre Ronchi and the Mayer River. 195 Somarco Ferry, The Padre Antonio Ronchi 224, 274 Villa O’Higgins 204

Fiords [See also: Route of the Undiscovered Patagonia Circuit - Stage 4].

A boat ride to the Dark Side. 246 Calen Fiord 239 Explore the Northern Patagonia Ice Field and the Steffen Glacier. 249 Jorge Montt Glacier 239 Mitchell Fiord 204, 233 Mouth of the Baker River 236 Padre Antonio Ronchi Ferry 224 Pascua River 239 Puerto Bravo Dock 224 Puerto Yungay 204, 205, 224 El Peregrino 225 Ride along with Father Ronchi. 204 Sail turquoise waters through history. 235 Steffen Glacier 238 Tour the Southern Patagonia Ice Field and the Jorge Montt Glacier. 247 Welcome to Caleta Tortel - Unique Patagonian Heritage. 237

Fish & Fishing [See also: Route of the Undiscovered Patagonia Circuit].

Chilean National Fishing & Aquaculture Service (SERNAPESCA). 30 Cochrane offers fantastic recreational fishing. 68 Didymo Algae (didymosphenia gemi-nata) 68 Guides & Excursions 111, 169, 216, 283 Planning your water-based activities in Patagonia. 65 Raise your glass and celebrate reaching the heart of Patagonia! 181 Recharge in the heart of the Austral

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Steppe. 129 Villa O’Higgins to Cisnes Lake Bike & Fishing Route 195 Fishing Licenses 30

Flora & Fauna Tour Providers 110, 168, 215, 284 Food To-Go 164, 280

GGas Stations 101, 153, 209, 275 Gastronomy (Articles & Activities)Celebrate Argentina’s National Gnocchi Day. 95 Craving a yummy breakfast and a great Java fix? 137 Enjoy a Tabla at the Piedra Clavada. 133 Heat up your journey. 54 Indulge in the Grand Empanada Tour. 146 Posadas, pastas, and petroglyphs await in Hipolito Yrigoyen. 93 Serving a perfect yerba mate starts with the water. 56 Sip the flavor of Patagonia, yerba mate. 53 Summer in Patagonia means it’s time for an Asado al Palo. 261 Taste traditions that stand the test of time. 191 Treat yourself to a bit of high cuisine in the middle of the Austral Steppe. 132 Welcome to El Chaltén, the Trekking Capital of Argentina. 134

Gastronomy (Recipes)Cooking on the road Argentinean style, “Gnocchi with Salsa Tuco”. 96 How to prepare a Patagonian Asado al Palo. 263 Prepare Patagonian-style tortas fritas and Chilean pebre on your own. 192 Prepare your own Empanadas with a Patagonian style. 148 Prepare your own home-baked bread, Patagonia style. 252

Gastronomy (Where to Eat & Drink)Bakeries (Panaderias) 284 Restaurants & Pubs 284 Supermarkets 284 To-Go 284Getting Around

Air Transport 31, 152, 208, 273 Boat Transport 208, 274 Bus Transport 32, 100, 152, 208, 274 Chauffeurs & Transfers 33, 100, 153, 274 Gas Stations & Mechanics 101, 153, 209, 275 How to travel the Undiscovered Pata-gonia Circuit using Public Transporta-tion. 22 Rental Cars & Vehicles 34

Getting Here 7, 29 Glacial Footprint 190, 232

Explore the Casa de Piedra Area in Patagonia Park. 86 Wind through the valleys of gauchos 229

Glaciers [See also: Bernardo O’Higgins National Park; Guides & Excursions; Los Glaciares National Park; Route of the Undiscovered Patagonia Circuit; Safe Travels; San Rafael Lagoon National Park; San Lorenzo Conservation Area].

Antarctic Ice Sheet 188 Bravo Glacier 222 Calluqueo Glacier 222, 269, 270, 271 Cerro Torre Glacier 143 Chico Glacier 222 Colonia Glacier 73 De los Tres Glacier 141 Del Salto Glacier 73El Tigre Glacier 183, 222, 223, 231

El Tigre Glacier Trail 183, 231 Entre Patagones Excursions 214

Exploradores Glacier 249 Greenland Ice Sheet 188 Jorge Montt Glacier 222, 239, 247 Leones Glacier 249 Mosco Glacier 183, 185, 222 Mosco Glacier Trail 183 Nef Glacier 249 Northern Patagonia Ice Field 188, 222, 238, 249O’Higgins Glacier 180, 183, 189, 222

Hielo Sur 180 L/M Quetru 180 Robinson Crusoe - Deep Patagonia 214 Tsonek Expeditions 214 Villa O’Higgins Expeditions 214

Piedras Blancas Glacier 135, 142

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San Lorenzo Glacier 222 San Rafael Lagoon Glacier 249 Solar Glacier 249 Southern Patagonia Ice Field 188, 189, 222, 238, 239 Steffen Glacier 222, 238, 249 Torres Del Paine National Park 188 Vargas Glacier 73 Viedma Glacier 135

Glaciers (Articles & Activities)Answers to your questions about the science of ICE. 187 Catch a Tiger by the Tail. 231 Cruise O’Higgins/San Martin Lake to the O’Higgins Glacier. 180 Day hike to Cerro Mirador in the San Lorenzo Range. 268 Day Hike to the Mosco River Glacier. 185 Day Hike to the Piedras Blancas Glacier Overlook. 142 Experience the Baker River. 73 Explore the Northern Patagonia Ice Field and the Steffen Glacier. 249 Hike to the Cerro Torre Lagoon and Overlook. 143 Multisport adventure to the Calluqueo Glacier. 269 Tour the Southern Patagonia Ice Field and the Jorge Montt Glacier. 247 Trekking the shores of Laguna/Lago del Desierto in route to Chile. 178 Viedma Lake and Glacier Multisport Excursion 145Welcome to Caleta Tortel - Unique Patagonian Heritage. 237 Welcome to El Chaltén, the Trekking Capital of Argentina. 134

Glaciers (Resources & Additional Reading)Benn, Douglas I. and Evands, David J.A. 1998. Glaciers and glaciation. Arnold. 190 Derruau, Max. “The system of glacial erosion.” In Geomorphology. Section 3, Chapter 2. Barcelona: Ariel, 2nd Ed., 1991. 190 Exploring Glaciers. Melody S. Mis. 2009. 190 Formation and Characteristics of glacier ice. Encyclopedia Britannica. Academic Edition. 190 Glacier hydrology. Encyclopedia Britan-nica. Academic Edition. 190

Glaciers. Isaac Nadeau. 2006. 190 Glaciers. Larry Dane Brimner. 2000. 190 Hambrey, Michael, Alean, Jürg. Glaciers. Cambridge University Press, 2004. ISBN 0-521-82808-2 190 Icebergs and Glaciers. Seymour Simon. 1999. 190 Icebergs, Ice Caps, and Glaciers. Allan Fowler. 1997. 190 Icebergs. Stuart A. Kallen. 2003. 190 Knight, Peter G. 1999. Glaciers. Stanley Thornes Ltd. 190 Learning about the Earth: Glaciers. Colleen Sexton. 2008. 190 Mattern, Joanne. Antarctica: The world’s largest glacier. The Rosen Publishing Group, 2004. ISBN 0-8239-6874-X 190 Strahler, Arthur N. (1992, reprinted 1997) Physical Geology, chap. 18: Gla-ciers and glaciations of the Pleistocene, Barcelona: Ed ISBN 84-282-0770-4 Omega 190 Tarbuck, E., 1999, Earth Sciences: An In-troduction to Physical Geology, Madrid, Prentice Hall. 190

Glaciers (Terminology)Alpine Glaciers 189 Basal slip 188 Cirque Glaciers 189 Climate change 188 Compression of ice 188 Eustatic change 190 Firnification 187, 188 Geomorphic agents 190 Glacial Footprint 190 Ice Fields 189 Internal flow 187 Large Ice Sheets or Caps 189 Moraine 188 Natural systems 190 Outlet glaciers 188 Plastic 187 Recrystallization of snow 187 Sediment 190 Small Icecaps 189 Valley Glaciers 189

Gobernador Gregores, AR [See also:Route of the Undiscovered Patagonia Circuit - Stage 2].

Recharge in the heart of the Austral Steppe. 129

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Searching for solitude and pristine wilderness? 127 Treat yourself to a bit of high cuisine in the middle of the Austral Steppe. 132

Guides & ExcursionsBike Guides & Rental 111, 169, 217 Captains & Boats 109, 166, 214, 281 Fishing Guides 111, 169, 216, 283 Flora & Fauna 110, 168, 215, 284 Hiking & Mountain Sports 109, 164, 214, 280 History & Culture 110, 167, 215, 282 Horses & Horseback Riding 168, 216, 284 Logistics & Porter Services - Stage 3 209 Overland Tour Providers 109, 166, 215, 282

HHikes & Hiking [See also: Guides & Excursions; Protected Areas, Safe Travels; Route of the Undiscovered Patagonia Circuit].

Hikes & Hiking (Routes)A walk to the Cisnes Lagoon in Patago-nia Park. 79 Backpacking through Huemul country. 85 Calling the curious! It’s time to break out those binoculars. 198 Catch a Tiger by the Tail. 231 Chorrillo del Salto Waterfall Hike. 139 Day hike to Cerro Mirador in the San Lorenzo Range. 268 Day hike to Lago de Diablo (Devil’s Lake) 144 Day Hike to the Mosco River Glacier. 185 Day Hike to the Piedras Blancas Glacier Overlook. 142 Discover the earliest human societies in South America. 125 Encounter Hidden Treasures. 233 Explore the Casa de Piedra Area in Patagonia Park. 86 Explore the Northern Patagonia Ice Field and the Steffen Glacier. 249 Explore the Tamango National Reserve with this day hike. 63

Explore the Tamango National Reserve with this great multisport day-circuit! 71 Explore Viedma Lake & Glacier. 145 Hike the Altas Lagoons circuit in Pata-gonia Park. 81 Hike to Capri Lagoon, Poincenot Camping and the Blanco River. 140 Hike to De los Tres Lagoon (Extension of the Trek to Capri Lagoon, Poincenot Camping and the Blanco River) 141 Hike to the Cerro Torre Lagoon and Overlook. 143 Hike to the Overlook of Cerro Santi-ago. 184 Multisport adventure to the Calluqueo Glacier. 269 “Orienteer” your way along the board-walks. 241 Reach the summit of Cerro Leon in Perito Moreno National Park. 128 Summit Cerro La Bandera in a snap! 244 Trekking the shores of Laguna/Lago del Desierto in route to Chile 178 Villa O’Higgins to Puerto Bahamondes Bike & Hike. 194 Walk the cemetery circuit in Patagonia Park. 80

Hikes & Hiking (Safety Tips & Articles)Hiking in Patagonia with your kids. 70 Tips for hiking in Patagonia. 60 When Crossing Streams & Rivers 66

Hikes & Hiking ( Guides & Excursions) 109, 164, 214, 280 Hipolito Yrigoyen - Lago Posadas, AR [See also: Route of the Undiscovered Patagonia Circuit - Stage 1].

Back roads tour of the Austral Steppe. 91 Celebrate Argentina’s National Gnocchi Day. 95 Posadas, pastas, and petroglyphs await in Hipolito Yrigoyen. 93 Summer in Patagonia means it’s time for an Asado al Palo. 261

History & CultureA boat ride to the Dark Side. 246 A new legacy for an ancient Valley. 76 Celebrate Argentina’s National Gnocchi Day. 95 Celebrate the Route of the Huemul

293


Festival. 82 Cochrane has always been a city on the move. 47 Cooking on the road Argentinean style, “Gnocchi with Salsa Tuco”. 96 Craving a yummy breakfast and a great Java fix? 137 Discover the earliest human societ-ies in South America. 125 [See also UNESCO World Heritage Site Cueva de las Manos]. Enjoy a Tabla at the Piedra Clavada. 133 Enter Father Antonio Ronchi’s world where anything is possible and every-one pitches in. 202 Experience the Baker River. 73 Explore the Casa de Piedra Area in Patagonia Park. 86 Heat up your journey. 54 How to prepare a Patagonian Asado al Palo. 263 Indulge in the Grand Empanada Tour. 146 Join the elite few who have biked the Carretera Austral of Chile. 194 On horseback, to El Saltón and Corte San Carlos. 254 “Orienteer” your way along the board-walks. 241 Padre Ronchi Works Foundation 30 Posadas, pastas, and petroglyphs await in Hipolito Yrigoyen. 93pre-Columbian Cultures 52

and Yerba Mate 53 Aoniken 52, 76, 86, 93, 94 Cerro de los Indios 94 Chalía River 133 Cueva de las Manos UNESCO World Heritage Site 125 Kawéskar 239 Perito Moreno National Park 127 petroglyphic and archaeological sites 94 Tamales 146 Tehuelche 52, 76, 86, 92, 93, 94, 125, 133, 134

Prepare Patagonian-style tortas fritas and Chilean pebre on your own. 192 Prepare your own Empanadas with a Patagonian style. 148 Prepare your own home-baked bread,

Patagonia style. 252 Raise your glass and celebrate reaching the heart of Patagonia! 181 Recharge in the heart of the Austral Steppe. 129 Ride along with Father Ronchi. 204 Sail turquoise waters through history. 235 Serving a perfect yerba mate starts with the water. 56 Sip the flavor of Patagonia, yerba mate. 53 Summer in Patagonia means it’s time for an Asado al Palo. 261 Take a walk through Cochrane’s past and present. 50 Taste traditions that stand the test of time. 191 Treat yourself to a bit of high cuisine in the middle of the Austral Steppe. 132 Visit Fundo Los Cipreses at Los Ñadis. 251 Walk the cemetery circuit in Patagonia Park. 80 Welcome to Caleta Tortel - Unique Patagonian Heritage. 237 Welcome to El Chaltén, the Trekking Capital of Argentina. 134 Wind through the valleys of gauchos. 229 History & Culture Tour Providers 110, 167, 215, 282

Horses & Horseback Riding [See also: Farms (Fundos) & Estancias; Route of the Undiscovered Patagonia Circuit; Safe Travels].

Best practices for horse riding in Pata-gonia. 256 Horseback Riding at Quetru Lake 239 Horseback Riding Guides 168, 216, 284 Horseback Riding in Fundo San Loren-zo 268 Horseback Riding Service Providers 168, 216, 284 On horseback, to El Saltón and Corte San Carlos. 254 Raise your glass and celebrate reaching the heart of Patagonia! Welcome to Villa O’Higgins, the heart of Patagonia. 181 Visit Fundo Los Cipreses at Los Ñadis.

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251 Wind through the valleys of gauchos. 229

Huemul (hippocamelus bisulcus) 57A new legacy for an ancient Valley. 76 Backpacking through Huemul country. 85 Backstage with Hippocamelus bisulcus. 83 Celebrate the Route of the Huemul Festival. 82 Check out beautiful views in Tamango National Reserve. 57 Driving the roads of Patagonia on your own. 17 Encounter Hidden Treasures. 233 Explore the Northern Patagonia Ice Field and the Steffen Glacier. 249 Explore the Tamango National Reserve with this day hike. 63 Explore the Tamango National Reserve with this great multisport day-circuit! 71 Introducing Patagonia’s newest Park. 75 On horseback, to El Saltón and Corte San Carlos. 254 Seeking solitude and pure nature? Head to Los Huemules. 144 Support the critical work of the Taman-go National Reserve. 58

IIce and Ice Fields [See: Glaciers].

KKatalalixar National Reserve 238 [See also: Birds; Guides & Excursions; Huemul; Safe Travels]. Kids & Families [See also: Route of the Undiscovered Patagonia Circuit; Safe Travels]. Kids & Families (Activities & Excursions)

A boat ride to the Dark Side. 246 A walk to the Cisnes Lagoon in Patago-nia Park. 79 Back roads tour of the Austral Steppe. 91 Calling the curious! It’s time to break out those binoculars. 198

Celebrate the Route of the Huemul Festival. 82 Chorrillo del Salto Waterfall Hike. 139 Cochrane offers fantastic recreational fishing. 68 Cooking on the road Argentinean style, “Gnocchi with Salsa Tuco”. 96 Craving a yummy breakfast and a great Java fix? 137 Cruise O’Higgins/San Martin Lake to the O’Higgins Glacier. 180 Day Hike to the Piedras Blancas Glacier Overlook. 142 Discover the earliest human societies in South America. 125 Encounter Hidden Treasures. 233 Experience the Baker River. 73 Explore the Tamango National Reserve with this day hike. 63 Explore the Tamango National Reserve with this great multisport day-circuit! 71 Explore Viedma Lake & Glacier. 145 Heat up your journey. 54 Hike to Capri Lagoon, Poincenot Camping and the Blanco River. 140 Hike to the Overlook of Cerro Santi-ago. 184 Horseback Ride Around Fundo los Cipreses 254 Indulge in the Grand Empanada Tour. 146 Join the elite few who have biked the Carretera Austral of Chile. 194 Kayaking on the Cochrane River. 67 “Orienteer” your way along the board-walks. 241 Prepare Patagonian-style tortas fritas and Chilean pebre on your own. 192 Prepare your own Empanadas with a Patagonian style. 148 Prepare your own home-baked bread, Patagonia style. 252 Recharge in the heart of the Austral Steppe. 129 Ride along with Father Ronchi. 204 Sail turquoise waters through history. 235 Seeking solitude and pure nature? Head to Los Huemules. 144 Summer in Patagonia means it’s time for an Asado al Palo. 261

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Summit Cerro La Bandera in a snap! 244 Take a walk through Cochrane’s past and present. 50 Treat yourself to a bit of high cuisine in the middle of the Austral Steppe. 132 Trekking the shores of Laguna/Lago del Desierto in route to Chile. 178 Walk the cemetery circuit in Patagonia Park. 80 Crossing borders between Chile and Argentina. 88 Kid-friendly Tourism Information 29, 98, 150, 207, 272 Places to Visit Check out beautiful views in Tamango National Reserve. 57 Trekking in the northern zone of Los Glaciares National Park. 138 Visit Fundo Los Cipreses at Los Ñadis. 251 Welcome to Caleta Tortel - Unique Patagonian Heritage. 237 Welcome to El Chaltén, the Trekking Capital of Argentina. 134 Welcome to Villa O’Higgins, the heart of Patagonia. 181 You’re finally ready. Meet marvelous Mt. San Lorenzo! 267

Kids & Families (Things to Learn About)A new legacy for an ancient Valley. 76 Answers to your questions about the science of ICE. 187 Backstage with Hippocamelus bisulcus. 83 Celebrate Argentina’s National Gnocchi Day. 95 Enjoy a Tabla at the Piedra Clavada. 133 Enter Father Antonio Ronchi’s world where anything is possible and every-one pitches in. 202 How to prepare a Patagonian Asado al Palo. 263 Inform yourself about the Bird Life-zones in Aysén. 196 Rise to the challenge with these bird watching basics. 200 Support the critical work of the Taman-go National Reserve. 58 Taste traditions that stand the test of time. 191

LLodging [See Where to Sleep]. Logistics & Porter Services - Stage 3 209 Los Glaciares National Park [See also: Bird Species; Guides & Excursions; Glaciers; Huemul; Safe Travels].

Camping in the ParkCamping Capri Lagoon (Free, Spaces Limited) 159 Camping Confluencia (Free, Spaces Limited) 159 Camping El Blanco River (Free, Climb-ers-only, Spaces Limited) 160 Camping Madsen (Free, Spaces Limited) - Los Glaciares National Park 160 Camping Poincenot (Free, Spaces Limited) 160

El Huemul Ship - Ferry for Crossing of Laguna/Lago del Desierto 208 Lodging in El Chaltén 154 Park Guard Ceferino Fonzo Informa-tion Center, 151 Trails & Excursions:

Chorrillo del Salto Waterfall Hike. 139 Day Hike to the Piedras Blancas Glacier Overlook. 142 Explore Viedma Lake & Glacier. 145 Hike to Capri Lagoon, Poincenot Camping and the Blanco River. 140 Hike to De los Tres Lagoon (Extension of the Trek to Capri Lagoon, Poincenot Camping and the Blanco River). 141 Hike to the Cerro Torre Lagoon and Overlook. 143 Trekking the shores of Laguna/Lago del Desierto in route to Chile. 178

Trekking in the northern zone of Los Glaciares National Park. 138 UNESCO World Heritage Site 138 Welcome to El Chaltén, the Trekking Capital of Argentina. 134

Los Huemules Private Nature Reserve 151 [See also: Bird Species; Glaciers; Guides & Excursions; Huemul; Safe Travels].

Seeking solitude and pure nature? Head to Los Huemules. 144

296


MMechanics 101, 153, 209, 275 Medical Services 30, 99, 151, 207, 273

Communication and medical services. 24

Mountain Sport Guides & Excursions 109, 164, 214, 280

NNational Fishing & Aquaculture Service of Chile (SERNAPESCA). 30 National Forestry Corporation of Chile (CONAF)

Caleta Tortel Office 272 Cochrane Office 98 Regional Offices in Coyhaique 30

National Parks [See: Bernardo O’Higgins National Park; Los Glaciares National Park; Perito Moreno National Park; San Rafael Lagoon National Park]. National Reserves [See: Tamango National Reserve; Katalalixar National Reserve].

ÑÑadis Sector 251 [See also: Route of the Undiscovered Patagonia Circuit. Stage 4].

Best practices for horse riding in Patagonia. 256 Camping in the Sector 277 On horseback, to El Saltón and Corte San Carlos. 254 Prepare your own home-baked bread, Patagonia style. 252 Ride along with Father Ronchi. 204 Summer in Patagonia means it’s time for an Asado al Palo. 261 Visit Fundo Los Cipreses at Los Ñadis. 251

OOverland Tour Providers 109, 166, 215, 282

P

Padre Antonio Ronchi [See: Father Anto-nio Ronchi]. Patagonia Park 98 [See also: Bird Species; Guides & Excursions; Huemul; Safe Travels].

A new legacy for an ancient Valley. 76 A walk to the Cisnes Lagoon in Patago-nia Park. 79 Backpacking through Huemul country. 85 Backstage with Hippocamelus bisulcus. 83 Camping at the Casa de Piedra (Stone House) in Valley Chacabuco 106 Camping Westwinds 106 Celebrate the Route of the Huemul Festival. 82 Explore the Casa de Piedra Area in Patagonia Park. 86 Hike the Altas Lagoons circuit in Pata-gonia Park. 81 Hiking in Valley Chacabuco. 78 Introducing Patagonia’s newest Park. 75 Restaurant at Patagonia Park 108 The Lodge at Valle Chacabuco 103 Walk the cemetery circuit in Patagonia Park. 80

Perito Moreno, AR 7, 98 Perito Moreno National Park [See also: Bird Species; Guides & Excursions; Safe Travels].

Camping El Rincón (Free) 159 Camping (Free) at the Information Center 159 Camping Lago Burmeister (Free) 159 Estancia La Oriental 154 Perito Moreno National Park Adminis-trative Offices 150 Reach the summit of Cerro Leon in Perito Moreno National Park. 128

Searching for solitude and pristine wilderness? 127 Police 31, 99, 151, 207, 272 Postal Services 31, 99, 152, 207, 273 Pre-Columbian [See: History & Culture]. Private Parks & Nature Reserves [See: Los Huemules Private Nature Reserve; Patagonia Park]. Protected Areas [See: Bernardo O’Higgins National Park; Caiquenes Lagoon Conservation Area; Katalalixar National

297


Reserve; Los Glaciares National Park; Los Huemules Private Nature Reserve; Patagonia Park; Perito Moreno National Park; San Lorenzo Conservation Area; San Rafael Lagoon National Park; Tamango National Reserve; UNESCO World Heritage Site Cueva de las Manos]. Public Transportation

Air Transport 31, 152, 208, 273 Boat Transport 208, 274 Bus Transport 32, 100, 152, 208, 274 How to travel the Undiscovered Pata-gonia Circuit using Public Transporta-tion. 22

Puerto Yungay, CH. [See: Route of the Undiscovered Patagonia Circuit - Stage 4].

Encounter Hidden Treasures. 233 Ride along with Father Ronchi. 204

RRecipes

Cooking on the road Argentinean style, “Gnocchi with Salsa Tuco”. 96 How to prepare a Patagonian Asado al Palo. 263 Prepare Patagonian-style tortas fritas and Chilean pebre on your own. 192 Prepare your own Empanadas with a Patagonian style. 148 Prepare your own home-baked bread, Patagonia style. 252

Rental Cars & Vehicles 34 Restaurants & Pubs 107, 160, 212, 277 Road Conditions & Information 30

Driving the roads of Patagonia on your own. 17 The roads of Patagonia are much more than JUST an ingredient in the adventure! 122

Route of the Undiscovered Patagonia Circuit. 6

Service Directory for Before & After the Circuit 29 Stage 1 - Meander Within the Patagonia Grasslands. 37, 40Section 1A: Cochrane - Patagonia Park Visitor Center (28.2 Km). 41

Section 1B: Patagonia Park Visitor Center - Casa de Piedra Camping

Area (26 Km). 42 Section 1C: Casa de Piedra Camping Area - Chilean Military Post (32.7 Km). 44 Section 1D: Chilean Military Post - Ghio Lake & Suyai Estancia Sector (33.3 Km). 45 Section 1E: Ghio Lake & Suyai Es-tancia Sector - Bajo Caracoles (68.3 Km). 46 Service directory for Stage 1. 98

Stage 2 - Follow the Sun throughAustral Steppe. 113, 115 Section 2A: Bajo Caracoles - Crossing RN 40, RP35, RP37, Las Horquetas Sector (101 Km). 116 Section 2B: Crossing RN 40, RP35, RP37, Las Horquetas Sector - Gober-nador Gregores (117 Km). 117 Section 2C: Gobernador Gregores - Crossing RP27, RN288 (115 Km). 119 Section 2D: Crossing RP27, RN288 - Tres Lagos (148 Km). 120 Section 2E: Tres Lagos - El Chaltén (122 Km). 121 Service Directory for Stage 2 150

Stage 3 - Traverse the Andes to the IceFields. 171, 173 Section 3A: El Chaltén - Northern Shore of Laguna/Lago del Desierto (44.6 Km). 175 Section 3B: Northern Shore of Lagu-na/Lago del Desierto - Candelario Mansilla (20.5 Km). 176 Section 3C: Boat travel, Candelario Mansilla - Villa O’Higgins (58.4 Km). 177 Service Directory for Stage 3. 207

Stage 4 - Dwell within Glaciers, Fiords and Rivers. 219, 221

Section 4A: Villa O’Higgins - Camp Pioneer (43.1 Km). 223 Section 4B: Camp Pioneer - Puerto Bravo Dock at Mitchell Fiord (55.2 Km). 224 Section 4C: Puerto Bravo Dock at Mitchell Fiord - Caleta Tortel (51.4 Km). 225 Section 4D: Caleta Tortel - Los Ñadis Sector (80.7 Km). 227 Section 4E: Los Ñadis Sector - Co-chrane (44.3 Km). 228

298


Service Directory for Stage 4. 272

SSafe Travels

Best practices for horse riding in Pata-gonia. 256 Bike touring along Patagonia roads. 20 Communication and medical services. 24 Consideration, prevention and manage-ment of risk and accidents during your trip. 15 Crossing borders between Chile and Argentina. 88 Discovering Patagonia with your kids. 70 Driving the roads of Patagonia on your own. 17 How to travel the Undiscovered Pata-gonia Circuit using Public Transporta-tion. 22 Planning your water-based activities in Patagonia. 65 Preparing for the climate of Patagonia. 69 The fundamental philosophy for travel in Patagonia? Self-sufficiency. 13 The roads of Patagonia are much more than JUST an ingredient in the adventure! 122 Thinking of traveling with a pet? 27 Tips for hiking in Patagonia. 60 Safety & Health Services 30, 99, 151, 207, 272

San Lorenzo Conservation Area [See also: Birds; Glaciers; Guides & Excursions; Huemul; Safe Travels].

Answers to your questions about the science of ICE. 187 Backstage with Hippocamelus bisulcus. 83 Best practices for horse riding in Pata-gonia. 256 Camping, Fundo San Lorenzo 277 Day hike to Cerro Mirador in the San Lorenzo Range. 268 Multisport adventure to the Calluqueo Glacier. 269 Summer in Patagonia means it’s time for an Asado al Palo. 261 You’re finally ready.

Meet marvelous Mt. San Lorenzo! 267San Rafael Lagoon National Park [See also: Birds; Glaciers; Guides & Excursions; Huemul; Safe Travels].

CONAF Offices Caleta Tortel 272 Explore the Northern Patagonia Ice Field and the Steffen Glacier. 249 Welcome to Caleta Tortel - Unique Patagonian Heritage. 237

Spas & Relaxation 169, 217 Stage 1 - Meander Within the Patagonia Grasslands [See: Route of the Undiscovered Patagonia Circuit]. Stage 2 - Follow the Sun through Austral Steppe [See: Route of the Undiscovered Patagonia Circuit]. Stage 3 - Traverse the Andes to the Ice Fields [See: Route of the Undiscovered Patagonia Circuit]. Stage 4 - Dwell within Glaciers, Fiords and Rivers [See: Route of the Undiscovered Patagonia Circuit]. Supermarkets 108, 163, 213, 279

TTamango National Reserve 57, 77, 82, 84, 98 [See also: Birds; Huemul; Guides & Excursions; Safe Travels].

Backpacking through Huemul country. 85 Backstage with Hippocamelus bisulcus. 83 Camping, CONAF Boat Dock Area 106 Camping, Las Correntadas Beach Area 106 Celebrate the Route of the Huemul Festival. 82 Check out beautiful views in Tamango National Reserve. 57 Cochrane offers fantastic recreational fishing. 68 Explore the Tamango National Reserve with this day hike. 63 Explore the Tamango National Reserve with this great multisport day-circuit! 71 Kayaking on the Cochrane River. 67 Park Guard & Guide (Boat Excursion) 109

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Support the critical work of the Taman-go National Reserve. 58

Tourism Information 29, 98, 150, 207, 272 Towns along the Circuit [See: Bajo Caracoles, AR; Caleta Tortel, CH; Cochrane, CH; Coyhaique, CH; Gobernador Gregores, AR; El Calafate, AR; El Chaltén, AR; Hipolito Yrigoyen - Lago Posadas, AR; Perito Moreno, AR; Tres Lagos, AR; Villa O’Higgins, CH]. Traditional Lodging. See Where to Sleep Transfers & Chauffeurs 33, 100, 153, 274 Tres Lagos, AR [See also: Route of the Undiscovered Patagonia Circuit - Stage 2].

Enjoy a Tabla at the Piedra Clavada. 133 Service Directory for Stage 2 150

UUNESCO World Heritage Site Cueva de las Manos 125.

Cabaña at the Cueva de las Manos Estancia 158 Cueva de las Manos Estancia Tours 164 Discover the earliest human societies in South America. 125 Hospedaje at the Cueva de las Manos Estancia 154 Restaurant at the Cueva de las Manos Estancia 160 Sleeping Shelter at the Cueva de las Manos Estancia 159 Tours 164

VVilla O’Higgins, CH. [See also: Route of the Undiscovered Patagonia Circuit - Stages 3 & 4].

Calling the curious! It’s time to break out those binoculars. 198 Catch a Tiger by the Tail. 231 Cruise O’Higgins/San Martin Lake to the O’Higgins Glacier. 180 Day Hike to the Mosco River Glacier. 185 Enter Father Antonio Ronchi’s world where anything is possible and every-one pitches in. 202 Hike to the Overlook of Cerro Santi-ago. 184 Join the elite few who have biked the

Carretera Austral of Chile. 194 Map of Town 182 Raise your glass and celebrate reaching the heart of Patagonia! 181 Ride along with Father Ronchi. 204 Summer in Patagonia means it’s time for an Asado al Palo. 261 Taste traditions that stand the test of time. 191 Trekking the shores of Laguna/Lago del Desierto in route to Chile. 178 Wind through the valleys of gauchos. 229

WWhere to Sleep

Cabañas 104, 158, 211, 276 Camping & Shelters 105, 159, 212, 277Traditional Lodging 101, 154, 209, 275

w w w . u n d i s c o v e r e d p a t a g o n i a . c o m

undiscovered patagonia binational circuit (english - lo res)

Documents

aysn region of chile

sustainable tourism

project manager

regional tourism provider

productive tourism development

ecosystems of patagonia

ciep family

regional offices