twenty-secxdnd coastal engineering conference
TRANSCRIPT
P1990-7
Twenty-SecxDnd Volume 1 Coastal
Engineering Conference Proceedings of the International Conference VOLUME 1 TBWHISCHE UNWERSITHT
Laboratorium voor July 2-6,1990 Scheepshydromechanlc* Delft, The Netherlands Archief
Mekelweg 2, 2628 CD DeWl Conference held under the auspices of the J^. ^ . , 5 . 7 ^ 7 3 . Fax: 015 - 78183« Coastal Engineering Research Council of the American Society of Civil Engineers
Organized by the Royal Institution of Engineers in the Nethedands (Klvl), Division for Civil Engineering and co-sponsored by the Permanent International Association of Navigation Congresses and the International Association for Hydraulic Research.
Edited by Billy L. Edge
Published by the American Society of Civil Engineers 345 East 47th Street New York, New York 10017-2398
ABSTRACT This proceedings contains over 250 papers presented at the 22nd International Conference on Coastal Engineering which was held in Delft, The Netherlands, July 2-6,1990. The book is divided Into eight parts: 1) Characteristics of coastal waves and currents; 2) long waves and storm surges; 3) coastal structures; 4) the Dutch coast 5) coastal processes and sediment transport; 6) coastal, estuarine and environmental problems; 7) ship motions; and 8) case studies. The individual papers include such topics as the sedimentation and beach nourishment. Special emphasis is given to case studies of completed engineering projects. With the Inclusion of both theoretical and practical Information, these papers provide the civil engineer and related fields with a broad range of information on coastal engineering.
Library of Congress Cataloging-ln-Publlcation Data
Coastal Engineering Conference (22nd: 1990: Delft, Netherlands)
Coastal engineering 1990 proceedings: proceedings of the international conference. July 2-6, 1990, Delft, The Nether¬lands/Twenty-second Coastal Engineering Conference; edited by Billy L. Edge: organized by Ihe Royal Institution of Engineers in the Netheriands (Klvl), Division for Civil Engineering and co-sponsored by the Permanent International Association of Navigation Congresses and the International Association for Hydraulic Research,
p. cm. "Conference held under the auspices of the Coastal Engi
ne/•0eertng;Re5e9ijCh.-Cotjncil4)t,the American Society of Civil ''Engineers."' ^"^'--CU.fiTüi
Includes index. ; . ISBN 0-87262-776-4^
' i . Coastal engineering-^^ngresses. I. Edge, Billy L. II. Koninklijk Instlluuut van Ingenieurs (Netheriands). Division for Civil Engineering. III. Permanent International Association of Navigation Congresses. IV. International Association for Hydraulic Research. V. Title. TC203.5.C62 1990 ' 627—dc20 91-9069
CIP
The Society is not responsible for any statements made or opinions expressed in its publications.
Authorization to photocopy material for internal or personal use under circumstances not falling within the fair use provisions of the Copyright Act Is granted by ASCE to libraries and other users registered with Ihe Copyright Clearance Center (CCC) Transactional Reporting Service, provided that the base fee of $1.00 per article plus $.15 per page is paid directly to CCC, 27 Congress Street, Salem, MA 01970. The Identification for ASCE Books Is 0-87262/88. $1 + .15. Requests for special permission or bulk copying should be addressed to Reprints'Permis-slons Department.
Copyright 1991 by the American Society of Civil Engineers, All Rights Reservecl. Library of Congress Catalog Card No: 91-9069 ISBN 0-87262-776-4 ISSN 0893-8717 IVlanufactured In Ihe United States of America.
F o r e w o r d
The 22nd International Conference on Coastal Engineering was held in Del f l , The Netherlands. The 22nd ICCE, like the ones before it, was organized and managed by volunteers f r o m wi th in The Netherlands representing privale, industrial and governmental contributors. This Conference represented an opportunity to share scientific and engineering information and provided a forum for interaction with other engineers and scientists working on similar coastal problems. The time and effort contributed to ihe development and organizalion of each conference becomes more complex and diff icul t as ihcy continue to grow in size and content. The Local Organizing Committee worked on the planning for this Conference for nearly four years. A l l who attended the 22nd ICCE wi l l agree lhal i l was a tremendous success. The Proceedings of this Conference wil l represent a major step forward in the field of coastal engineering.
The chapters in this Proceedings have been prepared by the autiiors who were selected to make presentations at the 22nd International Conference on Coastal Engineering. The authors were asked lo make the presentations and submit the final papers based upon review of the abstracts which were submiilcd well in advance of the Conference. The Technical Review Committee included four professionals who are active in the field of coastal engineering. One of the members is a representative of the Local Organizing Committee, a second member was part of the technical program committee for a previous conference in his country and the olher two review members were selected for their broad understanding and recognition in lhe field. The papers included in this volume arc eligible for discussion in the Journal of the Waterways, Port, Coastal and Ocean Division of the ASCE. Al l papers are eligible for ASCE awards.
Venues for the upcoming conferences are lisled below:
23rd ICCE - Venice, Italy 1992 24lh ICCE - Kobe, Japan 1994 25lh ICCE - OrhuKlo, FL, USA 1996 26th ICCE - Copenhagen, Denmark 1998
Coastal engineers who would desire to host a future conference in their country should conlact the Secretary o f the Coastal Engineering Research Council to receive infonnation about submitting a proposal.
The continuing coordination o f the International Conferences on Coastal Engineering is through the Coastal Engineering Research Council of the ASCE. The Research Council began at the instigation of Professor Boris Bakhmeteff who as chairman of the Research Committee of the Engineering Foundalion suggested the formation of the Council on Wave Research. The Council was established in June 1950 under the Engineering Foundation.
Subsequently in 1963 the Council was transferred from the Foundalion lo the ASCE
and was renamed the Coastal Engineering Research Council which better described its expanded function.
Members of the Foundation and subsequently members of the Council recognized that coastal engineering problems required broad based research to better define the coastal and ocean phenomena with which they dealt. The Foundation felt that it was important that all disciplines working in the coastal area should have an opportunity and bc encouraged to communicate with one another through the mechanism of interdisciplinary conferences.
The first conference was held in Long Beach, CA in 1950. The papers which were delivered at that conference were published and became the first coastal engineering conference Proceedings. Although the conferences began with a national focus they quickly became intemational in scope. After planning and conducting 22 conferences on coastal engineering the Series has been established as the principal conference on coastal engineering in the worid. Contributors to the conference represent nearly all coastal nations and the numbers of abstracts which are submitted fo r consideration are generally twice as large as the available opportunity for presentations. The Proceedings of the conferences are all available f rom the ASCE.
Billy L . Edge, Secretary Coastal Engineering Research Council, ASCE
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
ORGANIZING C O M V i n T E E
Chaiiman: E.W. Dijker - formerly Dclfl University of Teciinology
Sccrctaiy; J . van der Wcide - Delft Hydraulics A.P.H. van Baardewijk - International Contracting J.A. Batijcs - Dclfl Univeisity of Technology P.HJ\. Hoogweg - Rijkswateislaat J.M. van dcr Kamp - Congiuss Office K l v l
S Q E N T I F I C C O M M r i T E E
Chairman: J.A. Balljes - Delft University of Technology W.T Bakker - Rijkswatcisuat J . van dc Graaff - Delft University of Technology K.W. Pilarczyk - Rijkswatostaal P.J. Visser - Delft University of Technology J.J. de Vriend - Dclfl Hydraulics
ACCOMPANYING PERSONS' CO.MMnTEE
Mrs. Fcnnekc d'Angremond-Pols Mrs. Lenie Bakker-Walter Mrs. Gcric Battjes-Hollandcr Mrs. GrcU Bijker-Jellema Mrs. Connie van de Graaff-Gocdcndorp
COASTAL ENGINEERING R E S E A R C H COUNCIL (ASCE)
Chairman: Robert L . Wiegel
Vicc-Chaiiman: OrvillcT. Magoon
Secretary: Billy L . Edge
Members: Eco W. Bijker Robert G . Dean Kyoshi Ilorikawa Ronald M. Noble Thomdikc SaWUc, Jr L.conardo Zccvaert
FINANCIAL SUPPORT
Financial Suppon has been given by: Nfuiistry of Transport and Public Works, Dept. Rijkswaterstaat Ministiy of Economic Affairs, Netiierlands Foreign Trade Agency C B . Association of Dutch Dredging Contractors D.H. Delft Hydraulics K & O Netherlands Coastal Works Association NAB U Netherlands Association of Intemational Contractois NTïDECO Netherlands Engineering Consultants V G B Dulch Association of Major Contractors
C O N T E N T S
OPENING ADDRESS His Royal Highness Prince Claus of The Nelherlands
K E Y N O T E ADDRESS
Rethinking Our Role in Coastal Zone Development
by J .E. Prins
Part I: CHARACTERISTICS OF COASTAL WAVES AND
CURRENTS
Chapter 1 - Disu-ibuiion Function Fitting for Storm Wave Data by Y. Coda and K. Kobunc 18
Chapter 2 - A Model for Surf Beat by P.I. van Leeuwen and J.A. Battjes 32
Chapter 3 - Evaluation of Empirical Model for Wave Runup Elevations by R. Hallermeier, K.B. Nosek and C.J. Andrassy 41
Chapter 4 - Model Predictions of Nonbreaking Shoaling Waves by S. Elgar, M.H. Freilich and R.T. Guza 55
Chapter 5 - Transition Zone Widih and Implications for Modelling Surfzone Hydrodynamics
by R.B. Nairn, J.A. Roclvink and H.N.Southgate 68
Chapter 6 - The Group Characteristics of Sea Waves by Y.-X. Yu and S.-X. Liu 82
Chapler 7 - Field Observation on Wave Sel-Up Near the Shoreline by S.-i. Yanagishima and K. Kaloh 95
Chapter 8 - Modelling Shoaling Directional Wave Spectra in Shallow Water
by J.T. Kirby 109
Chapter 9 - Modeling of Energy Transfer and Underiow in the Surf Zone
by A. Okayasu, A. Watanabe and M. Isobe 123
Chapter 10 - Numerical Simulation of Nonlinear Wave Transformation Over a Submerged Plate
by X.Yu, M . Isobe and A. Watanabe 136
Chapter 11 - Vertically 2-D Nearshore Circulation Model by T. Yamashita, Y. Tsuchiya and D.A. Suriamihardja 150
Chapter 12 - Violent Water Motion al Breaking-Wave Impact by M.J. Cooker and D.H. Peregrine 164
Chapter 13 - Wave Group Properties of Coastal Waves by H. Masc, T. Yamashita and K. Hayashi 177
Chapter 14 - Measurement and Compulation of Wave Induced Velocities on a Smooth Slope
by J.W. van dor Meer and M.K. Brctcler 191
Chapter 15 - A Numerical Model for Refraction Compulation of Irregular Waves Due lo Timc-Var>'ing Currents and Water Depth
by M . Yamaguchi and Y. Hatada 205
Chapter 16 - Extreme Storms in the Adriatic Sea by L. Cavaleri, L. Bertotti, P. Cancslrelli and R Lionello 218
Chapter 17 - Set-Up Driven Undertows on a Barred Beach by P.D. Osborne and B. Greenwood 227
Chapter 18 - Nearshore Circulation witli 3-D Profiles by I .A. Svendsen and U. Putrevu 241
Chapter 19 - Conditional Simulations in Laboratory Flumes by M.H. Ginienez, L.E. Borgman, R.T. Hudspeth, J.R. Medina, C. Sanchez-Carratalaand H.Tuah 255
Chapler 20 - The Effect of Wave Directionality on Nearshore Waves by M.J. Brifigs and J.M. Smith 267
Chapter 21 - Similarity of Velocity Profiles in Non-Uniform Longshore Currents
by H. El A.A. Refaat, Y. Tsuchiya and Y. Kawala 281
Chapter 22 - Time and Frequency Domain Analyses of Shallow Water Waves on a Slope
by D.H. Swart and J.G. Crowley 293
Chapter 23 - Extension of Mi ld Slope Equation for Waves Propagating Over a Permeable Submerged Breakwater
byT.Izumiya 306
Chapter 24 - Another Quasi-3D Model for Surf-Zone Flows by A. Sanchez-Arcilla, F. CoUado, M. Lemos and F. Rivcro 316
Chapter 25 - Wave Attenuation on an Offshore Coral Reef by T.A. Hardy, I.R. Young. R.C. Nelson and M.R. Gouriay 330
Chapter 26 - Application of Lognonnal Tmncatcd Distribution to Prediction of Long Term Sea State Using Visual Wave Height Data
by A. Gonzalez, J. Maninez and R. Blazquez 345
Chapter 27 - ExU-eme Waves and Wave Counts in a Hurricane by R.LSobey, B.A. Harper and B.D. Chandler 358
Chapter 28 - A Prediction Model of Irregular Wave Run-Up Height on Coastal Structures
byC.-RRyuandH.-YKang 371
Chapter 29 - Effects of the Gulf Stteam on Nearby Coastal Waves b y L . H . HolthuijsenandH.L.Tohnan 384
Chapter 30 - Improved Calculation of the Shoaling Wave Field by M . Hattori and T. Katsuragawa 396
Chapter 31 - A Model for Long Waves at Grazing Angle to a Rubble-Mound Jetty
by E. Melo and R.T. Guza 410
Chapter 32 - Movable Bed Friction Factors for SpecU-al Waves by O.S. Madsen, P.P. Mathi.sen and M . M . Rosengaus 420
Chapter 33 - Second Order Wave Generation and Application to Shoaling Investigations
by A. Gotschenberg and K.F. Dacmrich 430
Chapter 34 - Computation of 3-D Wind-Driven Currents by Response Function Method
by S.-K. Liu and J.J. Leendcrtse 444
Chapter 35 - Velocities and Bed Friction in Combined Flows by J.FA. Sleath 450
Chapter 36 - On the Fitting of Jonswap Spectra to Measured Sea States by E.P.D. Mansard and E.R. Funke 464
Chapter 37 - An Efficient Metiiod for the Reproduction of Non-Linear Random Waves
by G. Klopnian and RJ. van Leeuwen 478
Chapter 38 - An Experimental Study of Waves on a Sttongly Sheared Current Profile
by C. Swan 489
Chapter 39 - Wave Kinematics in ilie Surface Zone by J.E. Skjelbreia and A. Torum 503
Chapter 40 - Stochastic Modeling of Surfing Climate by W.R. Dally 516
Chapter 41 - Wave Model Applicalion in a Wadden Sea Area by L D . den Adel, H.D. Niemeyer. A.F. Franken N . Booij. J. Dekker and L A . Vogel 530
Chapter 42 - The Mass Transport of Waves Propagating on a Sloping Bottom
by H.H. Hwung and C. Lin 544
Chapter 43 - Turbulence Scales in the Surf and Swash by R.E. Flick and R.A. George 557
Chapter 44 - Reflection From Swash Zone on Natural Beaches by S. Kubota. M . Mizuguchi and M . Takezawa 570
Chapter 45 - Instabilities in the Longshore Current by N . Dodd, J. Olunan-Shay and E.B. Thornton 584
Chapter 46 - A Comparison of the Perfonnance of Three Mathematical Models of Wave Disturbance in Harbour Approaches
by J.V. Smallman and N.R Tozcr 597
Chapter 47 - Observations of Wind Wave Nonlinearity byT.H.C.HerbersandR.T.Guza 611
Chapter 48 - Applicability of a New Hybrid Parametric Wave Prediction Model
by Y. Hatada and M . Yamaguchi 623
Chapter 49 - Bottom Shear Sttcss and Friction Factor Due to tlie Asymmettic Wave Action
byC.-T.KuoandW.-J.Chen 637
Chapter 50 - Estimation of Directional Spectmm Expressed in Standard Form by M . Isobe 647
Chapter 51 - Characteristics of Oscillatory Flow Over Ripple Models by K. Horikawa and S. Ikeda 661
Chapter 52 - Sensitivity Analysis for Multi-Element Wavcmakers by G.S. Harkins, R.A. Dalrymple and M.A. Losada 675
Chapter 53 - A Model to Propagate Nonlinear Water Waves by J.M.C. Leitao and J.L.M. Fernandes 689
Chapter 54 - Wave Direction Measurement Using Marine X Band Radar by H. Hirakuchi and M . Ikeno 703
Chapter 55 - Variation of Surf Zone Turbulence bi a Wave Period by Y.Tada,T. SakaiandE.Obana 716
Chapter 56 - Wave Group Forced Nearshore Circulation by R.E. Fowler and R.A. Dakymple 729
Chapter 57 - Bore-Like Surf Beat on Reef Coasts by E. Nakaza, S. Tsukayama and M . Hino 743
Chapter 58 - Bragg Reflection of Waves by Artificial Bars by J.T. Kirby and J. Anton 757
Chapter 59 - Generation Mechanism of Abnormal Waves Along the Japan Coast
by T. Komaguchi, Y Tsuchiya and N. Shiraishi 769
Chapter 60 - Field Measurements and Analysis of Wave Induced Nearshore Currents
by H. Niemeyer 783
Chapter 61 - Directional Random Wave Propagation on Beaches by J.M. Gras.sa 798
Chapter 62 - Spatial Variation of Wave Group Statistics and Representative Wave-Heights of Swell
byA. Ukai.T. YasudaandK.Ito 812
Chapter 63 - Sea-Air Interactions in tlie Coastal Circulation Around Gran Canaria Island (Spain)
by B.Tcjedor, M . Alejo and L. Tejedor 826
Chapter 64 - A Numerical Method of Solitary Wave Forces Acting on a Large Vertical Cylinder
byT.Ohyama 840
Chapter 65 - A Numerical Model of the Rough Turbulent Boundary Layer in Combined Wave and Current Interaction
byH.-T.Sonand A.Temperville 853
Chapter 66 - Runup, Setup and tlie Coastal Watertable by P. Nielsen 867
Chapter 67 - Application of the Second-Order Mode Coupling Equation to Coastal Engineering Problems
by M . Tanaka 881
Chapter 68 - Full-Scale Measurements of Wave Run-up at Sea Dykes by U . Sparboom, J. Grune, S. Grosche and M . Haidekker 895
Chapter 69 - Statistical Characteristics of Offshore Currents by M . Ochi 909
Chapter 70 - Breaking and Reflection o f a Steep Solitary Wave Caused by a Submerged Obstacle
by T. Yasuda and M . Hara 923
Chapter 71 - Report from the NATO ARW on Water Wave Kinematics, May 1989
by A. Tomm and O. T. Gudmestad 935
Chapter 72 - Prediction of Ihe Dimensions of a Rip Current System on a Coast With Bars
by J. Zyserman, L Fredsoe and R. Deigaard 959
Chapter 73 - Scale Effects in Breaking Waves byA.D.ToumazisandK. Anastasiou 973
Chapter 74 - Comparison of Wave Hindcast Methods for Lower Gulf of Thailand
byS.Weesak-ulandS. Chanilakana 986
Chapter 75 - Developing Wave-Current Boundary Layers by R. Simons and A.G. Kyriacou 993
Chapter 76 - Incorporation of Wave Effects in a 3D Hydrostatic Mean Current Model
by H . de Vriend and N . Kitou 1005
Chapter 77 - Nonsteady Computations of Undular and Breaking Bores by A.F.T. da Silva and D.H. Peregrine 1019
Chapter 78 - Experimental and Numerical Study on Solitary Wave Breaking by H . Nishimura and S. Takewaka 1033
Chapter 79 - Wave Reflection by a Number of Thin Porous Plates Fixed in a Scmi-Infinitely Long Flume
byS.TwuandD.T.Lin 10^6
Chapter 80 - Modeling of Wave Transformation on Submerged Breakwater by S. Rojanakamthom, M . Isobe and A. Watanabe 1060
Chapter 81 - Wind-Induced Cross-Shore Water Flows by J.B. Crowley and D.H. Swart 1074
Chapler 82 - Irregular Waves on a Current by H.-H. Pmser and W. Zielke 1088
Chapter 83 - Wave Spectta Transformations by G. Chiaia. L. Damiani and A. Pettillo 1102
Part II: LONG WAVES AND STORM SURGES
Chapter 84 - Evolution of Infragravity Variance During a Storm by RA. Howd. J. Olunan-Shay, R. Holman andP.D.Komar 1118
Chapter 85 - Theory Versus Experiments in Two-Dimensional Surf Beats by H.A. Schaffer, I.G. Jonsson 1131
Chapter 86 - Bottom Pressures Due to Long Waves: Laboratory & Field Measurements
by E Raichlen. J.D. Ramsdcn and LR. Walker 1144
Chapter 87 - Sea Level Rise: A Probabilistic Design Problem by J.K. Vrijling and I.LC.A. van Beurden 1160
Chapter 88 - Nearfield Tsunamis Generated by Three Dimensional Bed Motions
by J.-J Leo and L L Chang 1172
Chapter 89 - Numerical 3-D Current Modelling of Sttatified Seas by E.B. Rasmussen, H.J. Vested and L.C. Ekebjerg 1186
Chapter 90 - Long Wave Interaction wilh Steeply Sloping Structures by S.T. Grilli and I .A. Svendsen 1200
Chapter 91 - North Sea Winds on Tides and Storm Surges by H.L. Tolman 1214
Chapter 92 - Decomposition and Interception of Long Waves by a Submerged Horizontal Plate
by H. Kojima, T. Ijima and A. Yoshida 1228
Chapter 93 - Observations of the Swash Expression of Far Infragravity Wave Motions
by R.A. Hohnan, RA. Howd, J.M. Oltman-Shay andP.D.Komar 1242
Chapter 94 - Safety Philosophy for Dike Design in The Netherlands
by A.W.C.M. Vrouwcnvelder and P Struik 1254
Part III: COASTAL STRUCTURES
Chapter 95 - Dynamic Stability of Armor Units - A BEM Approach
by C. Chian and F. Gerritsen 1270
Chapter 96 - Wave Forces on Cylindrical Members at Offshore Structure by Y. Mizuno, K. Tokikawa, M . Hirasawa, Y. Nagai andT. Kadono 1280
Chapter 97 - The Effect of Seawalls on Long-Term Shoreline Change Rates for the Southern Virginia Ocean Coastline
by D.R. Basco 1292
Chapter 98 - Rock Slopes Under Irregular Wave Attack by N . Kobayashi, A. Wurjanto and D.T. Cox 1306
Chapter 99 - Dynamic Analysis of Floating Breakwater Mooring Systems by J.R. Headland and Valhanos 1320
Chapter 100 - Wave Induced Pore Pressure In Rubble Mound Breakwaters by H. Oumeraci and H.W. Partenscky 1324
Chapter 101 - Reduction of Wave Forces and Overtopping by Submerged Structures in Front of a Vertical Breakwater
by B. Gonzales-Madrigal and J. Olwares Prud'Homme 1348
Chapter 102 - Stability of Breakwaters Consttucted on Dredged Sand Mound
by K. Yano, Y. Mizuno, N . Umezawa and T. Yanase 1362
Chapter 103 - Stability of Low-Crested and Reef Breakwaters by LW. van der Meer and K.W. Pilarczyk 1375
Chapter 104 - Forces on and Particle Motions Around Submerged Strucuires in Steep Waves
by LSkounip and I.G. Jonsson 1389
Chapter 105 - Reliability Analysis of Composite Breakwaters Protected with Armor Blocks
by M . Yamamolo, K. Mizumura, T. Endo and N . Shiraishi 1403
Chapter 106 - Stresses in Dolosse by H.R Burcharih, L.Zhou, G.L. Howell and W.G. McDougal 1417
Chapter 107 - Verification and Practical Use of Block Revetment Design Method
by A. Burger, A. Bezuijen, K.W. Pilarczyk and M.K. Breteler 1431
Chapter 108 - Rock Armour Stability Formulae - Influence of Stone Shape and Layer Tliickness
by A.R Bradbury. J-P Latham and N.W.H.AUsop 1446
Chapter 109 - Reflection Performance of Rock Armoured Slopes in Random Waves
by N.W.H. AUsop 1460
Chapter 110 - A Model for Breaking Wave Impact Pressures by M.L Cooker and D.H. Peregrine 1473
Chapter 111 - Overtopping of Solitary Waves at Model Sea Dikes by E. Ozhan and A.C. Yalciner 1487
Chapter 112 - Permeability Characteristics of Rubble Material -New Formulae
by R.W.K. Shih 1499
Chapter 113 - Morison Equation Coefficients and Data Condition by R.T. Hudspeth 1513
Chapter 114 - New Criteria for Granular Filters and Geotextile Fillers Under Revetments
by K.L Bakker. M.K. Breteler and H. den Adel 1524
Chapter 115 - Wave Forces on Breakwater Armour Units by L Juhl and O.L Jensen 1538
Chapter 116 - Effects of Wave Groups on the Stability of Rubble Mound Breakwaters
by J.R. Medina. C. Fassardi and R.T. Hudspeth 1552
Chapter 117 - Monitoring Hydraulic Loads on the Eastern Scheldt Storm Surge Barrier
by L. Klatter, J. Konter and T. Jongeling 1564
Chapler 118 - Stresses in Tetrapods: Results of Lirge Scale Model Tests
by W.W. Burger, H. Oumeraci and H.W. Partenscky 1578
Chapter 119 - Experiments on Coastal Protection Submerged Breakwaters: A Way to Look at the Results
by G. Gomez-Pina and J.M. Valdes Femandez 1592
Chapter 120 - Numerical Simulation of the Motion of a Loose Revetment Block
by A. Bezuijen, J. Wouters and H. den Adel 1606
Chapter 121 - Wave Pressure Attenuation in Breakwater Armour Layers byK.R.Hal l 1620
Chapter 122 - Concrete Armor Unit Structural Design Criteria by C D . Anglin, R.D. Scott and D.L Turcke 1634
Chapter 123 - A Fundamental Study on Construction Scheme for Rubble Foundation of Deep Water Breakwater from Hopper Barges
by Y. Matsumi 1648
Chapter 124 - Resistance of Grassmat to Wave Attack byJ.W. SeijffertandL. Philipse 1662
Chapter 125 - Practical Stndy on Larger-Scale Cylindrical Caisson Breakwater in Port of Kaohsiung
byS.-D. Kuo 1675
Chapter 126 - Arctic Slope Protection Methods by C B . Leidersdorf, RE. Gadd and W.G. McDougal 1687
Chapter 127 - Bragg Reflection Breakwater: A New Shore Proctection Method?
by L Ballard, J. DeVries, J.T. Kirby and R.T. Gu/.a 1702
Chapter 128 - Scale Effect of Wave Force on Armor Units by T. Sakakiyama and R. Kajima 1716
Chapter 129 - Trends in Stability of Dynamically Stable Breakwaters by J.S. Kao and K.R. Hall 1730
Chapter 130 - Forces on Vertical Walls Due to Obliquely-Incident Waves by C.-R Tsai and D.-S. Jeng 1742
Chapter 131 - Static and Dynamic Loading Tests on the Haro Armor Unit by L. Van Damme, J. de Rouck, L. Taerwe R. Dedeyne and L Degrieck 1755
Chapter 132 - Detennination of Coefficients in Morison Formula by a Kalman Filter
by P. Wilde, E. Sobierajski and W. Romanczyk 1769
Chapter 133 - Wave Forces on Vertical Breakwater on Reef Coasts by E. Nakaza, S. Tsukayama and M . Hino 1781
Chapter 134 - Local Scour Around a Large Circular Cylinder Due to Wave Action
byE. Saito, S.Sato andT. Shibayama 1795
Chapter 135 - Stability of Dolosse with Different Waist Thicknesses for Irregular Waves
by A.H. Holtzhausen and J.A. Zwambom 1805
Chapter 136 - Estimation of Peak Wave Stresses in Slender Complex Concrete Armor Units
by G.L. Howell, H.F. Burcharth and LR Rhee 1819
Chapter 137 - Research of Wave Forces of Breakwater in Deep Water Area
by H.-S. Hou 1827
Chapter 138 - Dynamic Reveunents byLAhrens 1837
Chapter 139 - Statistical Approach of Duration of Extreme Storms: Consequences on Breakwater Damages
byC.Teisson 1851
Part IV: THE DUTCH COAST
Chapter 140 - Coastal Defence Alternative in the Netherlands by C L Louissc and T.L Kuik 1862
Chapter 141 - Reconstruction of the Holocene Evolution ofthe Dutch Coast
by T.J. Zitman, M.LF. Stive and H.J. Wiersma 1876
Chapter 142 - Long Term Changes in Wind and Wave Climate on the North Sea
by F.M. Hoozemans 1888
Chapter 143 - Sand Budget of the Dutch Coast by R van Vessem and A. Stolk 1895
Chapter 144 - Sand Transport on the Shoreface of the Holland Coast by J.A. Roelvink and M.J.E Stive 1909
Chapter 145 - Cross-Shore Transport During Storm Surges by H.J. Steetzel 1922
Chapler 146 - Prediction of Coastline Evolution for the Holland Coast by M.J. Dijkman, W.T. Bakker and J.H. de Vroeg 1935
Chapler 147 - Morphologic Response of Tidal Basins lo Changes byW.D. Eysink 1948
Chapler 148 - Large-Scale Coastal Evolution Concept by M.J.F. Stive. J.A. Roelvink and H.L de Vriend 1962
Chapter 149 - Research on Large-Scale Coastal Behaviour by J.H.L Terwindt and J.A. Battjes 1975
Chapter 150 - Beach and Dune Nourishment in the Netherlands byRRoelse 1984
Chapter 151 - Offshore Sand Extraction and Nearshore Profile Nourislmienl
by J.S.L.J. van Alphen, ER Hallie, J.S. Ribbcrink J.A. Roelvink and C L Louisse 1998
Chapter 152 - Seaward Coastal Defence for the Dutch Coast byM.Pluijm 2010
PaitV: COASTAL PROCESSES AND SEDIMENT TRANSPORT
Chapter 153 - The Effect of Shore-Parallel Offshore Breakwater on tlic Beaches at Ocean City. New Jersey
by LR. Weggel and S.C. Farrell 2020
Chapter 154 - Shoreline Response to a Single Transmissivc Detached Breakwater
by H. Hanson and N.C. Kraus 2034
Chapter 155 - Flow-Fine Sediment Hysteresis in Sediment-Stiatified Coastal Waters
by R.G. Costa and A.J. Mehta 2047
Chapter 156 - Nearshore Current Patterns on Barred Beaches by D.G. Hazen. B . Greenwood and A.J. Bowen 2061
Chapter 157 - Berm Erosion Due to Long Period Waves by K. Katoh and S.-i. Yanagishima 2073
Chapter 158 - A Field Experiment on Breach Growth in Sand-Dikes by PJ. Visser, J.K. Vrijling and H.J. Verhagen 2087
Chapter 159 - Multi-Scale Nearshore and Beach Changes by R. Ostrowski, Z. Pruszak and R.B. Zeidler 2101
Chapter 160 - Laboratory Study on Beach Processes Due to Random Waves by R. Nishi. M . Sato and K. Nakamura 2117
Chapter 161 - A Quasi-3D Model for Suspended Sediment Transport by Currents and Waves
by I . Katopodi and J.S. Ribbcrink 2131
Chpatcr 162 - Method of Prediction of Bar Formation & Migration by S.H. Houston and R.G. Dean 2145
Chapter 163 - A Micro-Computer Ba.sed QUASI 3-D Sediment Transport Model
by M.H.G. Briand and J.W. Kamphuis 2159
Chapter 164 - Decoupled Numerical Model of Three-Dimensional Beach Change
by M . Larson, N.C. Kraus and H. Hanson 2173
Chapter 165 - Oscillatory Flow and Sediment Motion Over a Rippled Bed by P. Blondeaux and G. Vittori 2186
Chapter 166 - Wave Entrainment of Sand from a Rippled Bed by M.O.Green and C.E.Vincent 2200
Chapter 167 - Modelling of Multicomponent Sandy Beds Evolution Under Shallow Water Waves
by G. Chapalain and B. Boczar-Karakiewicz 2213
Chapter 168 - Nearshore Sediment Flux and Bottom Boimdary Dynamics: The Canadian Coastal Sediment Transport Programme (C-Coast)
by B. Greenwood, P.D. Osborne, A.J. Bowen, D.G. Hazen and A.E. Hay 2227
Chapter 169 - Nearshore Nourishment Implementation, Monitoring and Model Smdies ofthe 1.5 M m^ at Kirra Beach
by L.A. Jackson and R.B. Tomlinson 2241
Chapter 170 - A New Approach to 3D Flow and Transport-Modeling by J.C.M. Dijkzeul and J.J. Leendertse 2255
Chapter 171 - The Analysis and Role of Bars on the Protection of a Beach System, Gold Coast, Queensland, Australia
by B. Boczar-Karakiewicz and L.A. Jackson 2265
Chapter 172 - Sea Bottom Topography with Imaging Radar by J. Vogelzang, G.L Wensink, D. van Halsema and G. van der Burg 2279
Chapter 173 - Application of Equilibrium Beach Concepts to Sandy Great Lakes Profiles
by M . Stockberger and W.L. Wood 2291
Chapter 174 - Advances in Numerical Modeling of Dune Erosion by D.L. Kriebel 2304
Chapter 175 - Bedforms, Sediment Concentrations and Sediment Transport in Simulated Wave Conditions
by J.S. Ribbcrink and A. Al-Salem 2318
Chapter 176 - The In Situ Measurements of Sediment Transport and Bottom Topography Changes
by Y. Kawata, H. Yoshioka and Y. Tsuchiya 2332
Chapter 177 - Single-Phase Fluid Modelling of Sheet-Flow Toward the Development of "Numerical Mobile Bed"
by K. Nadaoka and H. Yagi 2346
Chapter 178 - Site Investigation on Sand Concentration in the Sheet-Flow Layer
by Z. Yu, H.D. Niemeyer and W.T. Bakker 2360
Chapter 179 - Two-Phase Flow Model on Oscillatory Sheet-Flow byT. Asano 2372
Chapter 180 - Abrasion at the Tanah Lot Temple - Bali - Indonesia, and Its Counter Measures
by Syamsudin and Kardana 2385
Chapter 181 - Man-Made Beaches: More Than 20 Years On by E Rouch and B. Bellessort 2394
Chapter 182 - Littoral Transport Rate by J.W. Kamphuis 2402
Chapter 183 - Causes of Damage to Saldanha Sand Breakwater by J.S. Schoonees, LW.J. Kluger and L A . Zwambom 2416
Chapter 184 - Numerical Modelling of the Dredged Spoil Disposal by C. Zude and W. Guifen 2430
Chapter 185 - Modeling of Wave-Current Interaction and Beach Change by S. Ohnaka and A. Watanabe 2443
Chapter 186 - Validation of Movable-Bed Modeling Guidance by S.A. Hughes and J.E. Fowler 2457
Chapter 187 - Large Scale Laboratory Tests of Dune Erosion by M.F. Overton, J.S. Fisher and A.L. Stone 2471
Chapter 188 - Practical Application of the Three-Dimensional Beach Evolution Model
by T. Shimizu, H. Nodani and K. Kondo 2481
Chapter 189 - Sand Transport Rate Under Wave-Current Action by A. Watanabe and M . Isobe 2495
Chapter 190 - Dynamic Numerical Models for Sand Waves and Pipeline Self-Burial
by C. Staub and R. Bijker 2508
Chapter 191 - Even/Odd Analysis of Shoreline Changes Adjacent to Florida's Tidal Inlets
by RA. Work and R.G. Dean 2522
Chapter 192 - Behaviour of Mobile Beds at High Shear Stress By K.C. Wilson and EN. Nnadi 2536
Chapter 193 - To Retreat in Order to Better Fight: Littoral Protection of Shingle Beaches in the North of France
by B. Manoha and C. Tcisson 2542
Chapterl94 - Experimental Results on the Sediment Grain Threshold Under Short-Wave Action
by C. Moutzouris 2552
Chapter 195 - Movable Bed Modeling Criteria for Beach Profiie Response by H . Wang, T. Tone and H. Dette 2566
Chapter 196 - Storm Erosion on the Sandy Beach by M . Martinez, R. Alvarez and I . Alonso 2580
Chapter 197 - A Regional Study of Coastal Morphology by I .H. Townend, C.A. Fleming, P. McLaren and A. Hunter-Blair 2589
Chapter 198 - Function of Detached Breakwater to Control Longshore Sediment Transport
by T. Sawaragi, I . Deguchi and G.-Y. Kim 2603
Chapter 199 - Oscillatory Flow Investigations in Porous Media by G.M. Smith and K.R. Hall 2616
Chapter 200 - Instantaneous Sediment Concentration Due to Wave Action at Prototype Scale
by K. Uliczka 2630
Chapter 201 - Underground Water Table and Beach Face Erosion by M . Sato 2644
Chapter 202 - A Numerical Model for Sand Transport Under Compound Waves
by S. Sato and N . Mitsunobu 2658
Chapter 203 - Dike Failure Calculation Model Based on in Situ Tests by C. Laustrup, H.T. Madsen, J. Jensen and L. Poulsen 2671
Chapter 204 - How To Analyse Beach Profile Measurements? by L van de Graaff 2682
Chapter 205 - Grain-Grain Interaction in Oscillating Sheetflow by W.T. Bakker, W.G.M. van Kesteren and W.H.G. Klomp 2696
Chapter 206 - Evaluation of Radioactive Sand Tracers to Measure Longshore Sediment Transport Rates
by G. Drapeau. B. Long and LW. Kamphuis 2710
Part V I : C O A S T A L , E S T U A R I N E A N D E N V I R O N M E N T A L PROBLEMS
Chapter 207 - Beach Erosion Due to Large Coastal Sttucture and Its Conttol
by Y. Tsuchiya, T. Yamashita and R. Silvester 2726
Chapter 208 - Beach Erosion Conttol by Submerged Floating Sttucture by N . Shimoda, N . Murakami and K. Iwata 2740
Chapter 209 - Function of Sand Fence Placed in Front of Embankment by S. Hotta and K. Horikawa 2754
Chapter 210 - Recent Perforniance of Linked Concrete Mat Armor Under Wave and Ice Impact
by RE. Gadd and C B . Leidersdorf 2768
Chapter 211 - Three Dimensional Effects of Seawall on the Adjacent Beach
by T. Tone and H. Wang 2782
Chapter 212 - Predicting Damage Benefits of Shore Protection Projects by K.R. Bodge 2796
Chapter 213 - The Impacts of Shoreline Protection Structures on Beaches Along Monterey Bay, California
by G.B. Griggs, J.E Tait and K. Scott 2810
Chapter 214 - Fate of Dredged Material Dumped Off tlie Dutch Shore by R. Spanlioff. T j . van Heuvel and J.M. de Kok 2824
Chapter 215 - Development of Water Level Changes in the German Bight, An Analysis Based on Single Value Time Series
by J. Jensen, H.-E. Mugge and W. Schonfeld 2838
Chapter 216 - Day Visitor Pontoon - Great Barrier Reef, Australia by A.A.C. Grummiit 2852
Chapter 217 - Salt Intmsion in Tideless Estuaries by E. Jasinska 2866
Chapter 218 - Coastal Lagoon Entrance DjTiamics by A.D. Gordon 2880
Chapter 219 - Extent of Contaminated Marine Sediments and Cleanup Methodology
by J.B. Herbich 2894
Chapter 220 - Designing for Slorm and Wave Damage in Coastal Buildings
by S.M. Rogers, Jr. 2908
Chapter 221 - Cross-Sectional Stability of Estuary Charmels in the Nelherlands
by F. Gerritsen, H. de Jong and A. Langerak 2922
Chapter 222 - Variations in Rheological Properties of Muds in tlie Gironde Esmary
by P. Galichon, A. Feral, J. Granboulan and L Viguier 2936
Chapler 223 - Hydraulic Aspects of the Construction of lhe Eastern Scheldt Stonn Surge Barrier
by J. Konter and L. Klatter 2950
Chapter 224 - Investigation on Improvement of Yangtze Estuary by Y. Kai and Y. Yixin 2964
Chapter 225 - Consolidation and Rheological Properties of Mud Deposits by C. Migniot and L. Hamm 2975
Chapler 226 - Integrated Coastal Research in die SVV Netherlands by J.RM. Mulder. T. Louters. RP Hallie, R. Posuna J.A. Craeymeersch and O. Hameriynck 2984
Chapter 227 - Numerical Simulations of Mud Transport by a Mul l i -Layered Nested Grid Model
by H. Tsuruya, K. Murakami and I . Irie 2998
Chapter 228 - Modelling of Cohesive Sediment Tran.sport. A Case Study: The Westem Scheldt Esmary
by H.P.J. Mulder and C. Udink 3012
Chapter 229 - The Great Belt Link - How to Achieve Zero Envu^onmental Impact on the Baltic Sea
by J.S. Moller and N.-E.G. Hansen 3024
Chapter 230 - Mud Transport Rate In Mud Layer Due to Wave Action by T. Shibayama. M . Okuno and S. Sato 3037
Chapter 231 - Estuary Geometry as a Function of TOal Range by B. O'Connor. J. Nicholson and R. Rayner 3050
Chapter 232 - Flow Area Prediction of Tidal Inlets After Sea Level Rise by H. Kondo 3063
Part VB: SHIP MOTIONS
Chapter 233 Criteria for Ship Movements in Harbours by O.J. Jensen. G. Viggosson, J. Thomson, S. Bjordal and J. Lundgren 3074
Chapter 234 - Navigability in Channels Subject to Siltation - Physical Scale Model Experiments
by C. Brossard, A. Delouis, P. Galichon, J. Granboulan and R Monadier 3088
Chapter 235 - Integration of Marine Simulation in Harbour Design by S.E. Sand and O.L Jensen 3102
Chapter 236 - Extension of the Boussinesq Equations to Include Wave Propagation in Deeper Water and Wave-Ship Inter-ation in Shallow Water
by P.A. Madsen and O.R. Sorensen 3112
Chapter 237 - Safe Underkeel Allowances for Vessels in Navigation Channels by J.M.A. Spencer, E.C. Bowers and G.H. Lean 3126
Chapter 238 - Numerical Model of the Nonlinear Interaction of Waves and Floating Bodies
by M . Brorsen and H.I . Bundgaard 3140
Part V I D : C A S E S T U D I E S
Chapter 239 - Ria De Foz: Works Behaviour by J. Diez Gonzalez and V. Escobar 3154
Chapter 240 - Emergency Situation in the Shoreline Reach of an Offshore Oilfield Pipeline and Remedial Measures
by LV. Bandeira, L.C. Araujo and A.B. do Valle 3171
Chapter 241 - Sand Bypassing to "Playa de Castilla" (Huelva-Spain) by J. Femandez, G. Gomez Pina and A. Munoz 3183
Chapter 242 - Berm Breakwater Contamination Study Sergipe Marine Terminal, Brazil
by C R Fournier. O J . Sayao and L E Caldas 3194
Chapter 243 - Offshore Breakwater for the Sergipe Marine Terminal. Brazil
by M . Malcolm and O.J. Sayao 3207
Chapter 244 - St. Paul Breakwater, Phase I (Tlie Project, the Failure and the Subsequent Investigations)
by T. Sorensen and O.L Jensen 3222
Chapter 245 - The Durban Beach Restoration Scheme After 30 Years by W. Laubscher, D.H. Swart, J.S. Schoonees. W.M. Pfaff and A.B. Davis 3227
Chapter 246 - Design and Constmction of Pleasure Craft Harbour -Club Mykonos Langebaan
by D.E. Bosman, G. de E Relief, J.E Kapp, M . Kloos and A. B. Ridge 3239
Chapter 247 - Artifical Beach Nourishment on Nordemey, A Case Study by H. Kunz 3254
Chapter 248 - Design and Installation of Scour Protection for the Acosta Bridge to Protect Against Hurricane Conditions
by B.L. Edge, D.K. Crapps, S. Jones and W. Dean 3268
Chapter 249 - Influence Functions
by H.G. Wind 3281
Subject Index 3295
Author Index 3301
