tuscany - marc de grazia · 38 tuscany tuscany vies with piedmont for the laurels of the best red...

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TUSCANY

Tuscany vies with Piedmont for the laurels of the best red wine region of Italy. Best known for its Chianti, Tuscany boasts a complex spectrum of red wines ranging from Brunello di Montalcino - one of the world’s most engaging and longest lived wines - to excellent everyday wines from lesser known appellations which will reward the consumer with fine quality at very affordable prices. Common to all red wines of Tuscany is the ubiquitous Sangiovese varietal. As will be clarified by the estate descriptions that follow, the Sangiovese grape is present in all red wines in percentages running from 65% to 100%. This remarkable and versatile varietal will yield - according to the area, appellation, cru and exposure in which it is grown, and to the percentages in which it is used along with other varietals - an array of stunningly diverse fine wines. An ample oenological portfolio that ranges from wines of great elegance and aristocratic suppleness, to wines of rich gracefulness and engratiating bouquets - each with specific characteristics for which one may successfully search. When in the 60’s mass replanting was encouraged and subsidized, no effort was made at the time towards clonal selection. Luckily, from the 1990s onwards, many high quality clonal selections have been planted throughout the region. The estates which I represent are in the forefront of clonal experimentation, their wines recapturing the wealth of flavours and intensity of the past with the added know-how of modern winemaking. Although Tuscany as a whole has remarkable soils and climates which allow for decent wine to be made almost anywhere below prohibitive altitudes, just decent wine simply leaves me rather unsatisfied. To find, make and release great wines is, and always has been, my goal. As such the great crus and climates of Tuscany are of the essence, for these are the small and rare geophysical loci which nature has gifted with the choicest soils and microclimates with respect to grape growing. Italy has never given its crus a formal status of recognition, but winemakers and growers alike know them only too well: they are too important in winemaking to be neglected. Finally, as crucial as the clones and the crus is the actual estate which produces the wines - for the experience, will and imagination of the winemaker are what will exalt the superior qualities of the great raw material into its finest expression: the great wine. At the beginning of the 1960s and 1970s, when the DOC and DOCG classifications were established, crop allowances were permitted to be too high and enforced varietal standardization had virtually destroyed nearly one hundred autochthonous varieties that abounded less than a century ago. Today the production regulations have been revised and, although foreign varietals including international grapes are allowed in the blends, many estates, and the ones which are part of our portfolio in particular, are experimenting with and recovering autochthonous varietals and clones from old vineyards such as Foglia Tonda, Pugnitello, Canaiolo Nero, Colorino, Ciliegiolo and many others. Our aim has always been and is to really and fearlessly express terroir in the multifaceted panorama of Tuscany. For example, what can Sangiovese do in a few crus of Carmignano or of Montepulciano? And believe me, it is unspeakably exciting, and it shoulders you with pride and awe when, sipping a wine from a barrel, along with the novel flavours you feel a little, but precious drop of wine truth is being re-established. In the following section you will find estates described which combine the best grapes, the best crus and the finest winemakers of Tuscany - in essence, the very special and unique creations of one of the outstanding wine regions of the world. ◊

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Main indigenous varietals

SangioveseCanaiolo NeroColorino

VernacciaTrebbiano

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TuscanyAzienda Agricola

Andrea Cortonesi, owner of Uccelliera, is a person who could be described as “salt of the earth”: the only son of a farming family, he has worked in the fields since he was a teenager helping his father. Andrea is not only an extremely talented winemaker, but he is also a fine entrepreneur who managed to purchase in 1986, entirely thanks to his own devices, the initial four hectares of the estate, consisting of an ancient homestead and half a hectare of old vineyards. He immediately planted two hectares of vines and in 1987 the first half hectare for the production of Brunello was planted. The name Uccelliera, meaning aviary in Italian, probably dates back to the Middle Ages when falcons where raised in this specific area. In the following years more vineyards, standing in different positions in respect to the homestead, were added so to reach the present extension of 6 hectares. To produce Brunello and Rosso by blending vineyards with different exposures and soils is a specific choice so that the character of each vintage and of the terroir can be expressed following a “mimimum handling” philosophy. This is pursued through natural vineyard management, the vines are sprayed only with copper and sulphur based products, the use of insecticides is very rare, the vineyards are tilled so no weedkillers are necessary. Depending on the age of the vines, vineyard density is 3,000-5,000 plants per hectare. The work in the vineyards, carried out entirely by hand, is focussed on obtaining perfectly balanced vines that yield fully ripe and flawless clusters. Andrea’s efforts continue in the cellar (a new cellar has been added to the old one and they are both built underground) where the wines rest at a constant and natural temperature. At present Uccelliera is without any doubt one of the top estates of Montalcino, the Brunello and Rosso are complex, intense, extemely supple and drinkable. An IGT/proprietary wine, Rapace, is also produced and a new release is a selection of Sangiovese, aged in French oak (from ultracentenarian trees) and exclusively bottled in magnums. The volcanic owner is not only a vigneron, he is also on the board of institutions for the management of the territory of Montalcino and he has recently opened a very good restaurant near the lovely Piazza il Campo of Siena: the high level cuisine of the creative chef can be considered part of the family’s tradition as Andrea’s mother is a wonderful cook and to have lunch at the estate is an unforgettable experience! ◊

In 2006 Andrea started a new project, together with other producers of the area friends of his, with the aim of enhancing the different aspects of the extraordinary terroir of Montalcino, and a Rosso and a Brunello are bottled under the brand-name of “Voliero”. The vineyards stand at an altitude of 250-450 meters above sea level with various exposures and the vines are between 10 and 20 years old. These wines are the expression of this terroir and show finesse rather than complexity. The style is traditional: the wine rests in large Slavonian and French oak casks , the Brunello for 30 months and the Rosso for four months. The wines are vinified at the estates of the friends of Andrea’s while bottling takes place at Uccelliera. The touch of Andrea is unmistakable in these two lovely wines! ◊

41Type of Viticulture: Integrated / Sustainable

Montalcino100% Sangiovese6 hectares20,000-22,000 bottles

Brunello di Montalcino DOCGZone:Varietal:Vineyard Ext.:Average Prod.:

Brunello di Montalcino DOCG Riserva

Zone: MontalcinoVarietal: 100% Sangiovese

Vineyard Ext.: selection over 1 hectare (older vines)

Average Prod.: 5,000-6,000 bottles

Rosso di Montalcino DOC Zone: Montalcino

Varietal: 100% SangioveseVineyard Ext.: 5 hectares


Toscana IGT Rapace Zone: Montalcino

Varietals: 70% Sangiovese,10% Cabernet, 20% MerlotVineyard Ext.: 6.3 hectares


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My first encounter with Brizio wines was at the end of an exhaustingly long day of bopping around Montalcino tasting big fat Brunelli. The devious devil of dropdead drearyness was whispering to me how easy it would be to call and cancel, after all, with my mojo running on empty and a seriously diminished interest therefore, what kind of a tasting would it be and wouldn’t it be unfair to judge this producer in my lethargic condition? In my other ear, the archangel of earnest enterprise blasted and chastised me for my laziness, shaming and rallying me into showing up. Taking the weight off my feet in Brizio’s office I sighed and mechanically dragged the first glass across the table and hefted up to my mouth. Whoa! It was all vibrancy and it energized me immediately. Not knowing, I asked what I was tasting. The 2003. Really? Well, that was remarkable given how most 2003 Brunelli were born tired and overcooked (much like I was feeling 30 seconds before). Then I learned it wasn’t even the Brunello, it was the Rosso di Montalcino 2003! It was now beyond wanting to taste Brizio wines, I needed to taste them and five vintages of Brunello later this was clear: Brizio Brunello is unrivalled for elegance and vigor. Is phat! Roberto Bellini, from a northern Italian family of agricultural entrepreneurs, purchased Azienda Agricola Chiesa di Santa Restituta in the 1970s and used to also manage the vineyards of Podere Brizio. Chiesa di Santa Restituta was then sold to Angelo Gaja in 1996. Mr Bellini bought 50% of Podere Brizio and established a partnership with the Cannoni-Mazzi family who had owned the estate since 1960. A modern and well equipped vinification and ageing cellar of an extension of 1,000 square meters was finished in 2002: the ageing section is built underground in order to have an even temperature all year round, all the stainless steel vats are equipped with temperature control and automatic devices to punch down the cap, the presses are pneumatic. The wines mature in large French oak casks. The total vineyard extension is 11.5 hectares of which 7 hectares of Sangiovese registered for the production of Brunello di Montalcino, 1 hectare registered for the production of Rosso di Montalcino. 3.5 hectares are planted with grape varieties for the production of IGT/proprietary wines.The excellent south-west exposure, the ideal type of soil and climate (in fact the area is protected from hail and storms by Monte Amiata a mountain south east of Montalcino and 1,740 meters high) make the zone of Santa Restituta, where the vineyards of Podere Brizio stand, one of the best areas of Montalcino. The clones of Sangiovese were selected from the oldest vines of Podere Brizio. Yields are well below what the appellation allows. Only the best clusters are chosen for the wines. The estate is certified organic.In 2013 Podere Brizio changed its ownership and is now part of IAG Toscana Srl, together with Fattoria Dievole in Chianti Classico. The well known and talented oenologist Alberto Antonini now supervises all the phases of winemaking together with the on-premise oenologist Giovanni Alberio, while the agronomist Lorenzo Bernini supervises the work in the vineyards. ◊

Tuscany

43Type of Viticulture: Certified Organic

Montalcino100% Sangiovese7 hectares13,000 bottles



Zone: MontalcinoVarietal: 100% Sangiovese

Vineyard Ext.: 7 hectaresAverage Prod.: 12,000 bottles

Rosso di Montalcino DOC Zone: Montalcino

Varietal: 100% SangioveseAverage Prod.: 17,000 bottles

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The winery was started and vineyards were planted in 1978 by Federigo Abbarchi, a Milanese pilot. The first oenologist was Attilio Pagli, an old friend of ours, who, with an assist from his mentor Giulio Giambelli, brought us the first bottled wines in the mid 80s. We knew the area, Scarnacuoia, up at 4-500 meters just below the town of Montalcino overlooking Montosoli. Historically it is known as the location of Ferruccio Biondi Santi’s first Sangiovese planting in the 1870s. When we were introduced to Scopetone the total production was about 4,000 bottles, mostly Brunello from about 1.5 sparcely planted hectares. The estate got noticed quickly and we easily sold the production out every year. Unfortunately Federigo died suddenly and in 2009 Loredana Tanganelli and her husband Antonio Brandi became partners of Federigo’s widow, Angela Abbarchi, and finally proprietors. Loredana is a passionate beekeeper and Antonio is a passionate viticulturist (he has previously worked for a local estate), together they decided to embark on this project supported by the Sangiovese champion Maurizio Castelli and by the agronomist Luca Felicioni.The vineyard extension is now 4.5 hectares in total: 1.5 hectares of Sangiovese for the production of Brunello in Montalcino and 3 hectares of Sangiovese in Montecucco (Tuscan Maremma).The brand of the estate has been maintained so that the three wines – Brunello di Montalcino, Rosso di Montalcino and a Toscana IGT (also 100% Sangiovese made from the vineyards in Montecucco) have kept the label of Scopetone. A new cellar has been completed in 2015: 300 square meters equipped with steel vats with temperature control and with large Slavonian oak casks (capacity 33 and 10 hectolitres). Though 300 square meters is small, it seems massive compared to the tiny space – less than 100 square meters – at the nearby old farmhouse where the wines were vinified and aged since the late 1970s. Environment friendly practices in the vineyards have always been pursued (so not to harm the bees) and the estate is now in the conversion phase to be certified organic. Brunello 2009 was the first vintage produced by Loredana and Antonio and the wines of Scopetone are as lovely as ever! ◊

Tuscany

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Type of Viticulture: in the conversion phase to Certified Organic

Collina di Montalcino100% Sangiovese1.5 hectares4,500 bottles


Rosso di Montalcino DOC Zone: Collina di Montalcino


Sangiovese di Toscana IGT Zone: Montecucco

Varietal: 100% SangioveseVineyard Ext: 3 hectares

Average Prod.: 10,000 bottles

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Tuscany

Gianni Brunelli, a man of many interests, established “Osteria Le Logge” in Siena (which has become one of the top restaurants of the city). In 1987 Gianni returned to Montalcino and purchased Le Chiuse di Sotto, an estate that had belonged to his father Dino, with two hectares of vineyards standing at 200 meters above sea level in the northern part of the area. In 1989 Sangiovese for the production of Brunello and of Rosso started being grown again. The vines of a small plot are still the original ones planted by Dino in 1947. The “Podernovone” estate was subsequently purchased. The property has a magnificent view on Monte Amiata and it is endowed with 4.5 hectares standing at 350 meters above sea level, mainly Sangiovese with a small percentage of Merlot (that goes into the blend of the IGT/proprietary wine “Amor Costante”). The soil of Podernovone, made up of calcareous-marly schists, reflects light and heat thus favouring the ripening of the grapes. Four different vineyards stand on this property: “Olmo”, “Oliva”, “Quercia” and “Gelso”. The different climate of the two properties (fresh and airy at Le Chiuse di Sotto with a lot of rain in the summer and warmer and ventilated at Podernovone) results in complex and elegant wines, as they are made from the vineyards of both estates.After Gianni passed away in 2008, his wife Laura, who already used to work with him at the estates and at the restaurant, takes care of the production and of the marketing of the wines. Paolo Vagaggini, one of the major experts of Sangiovese, is the winemaker. The vineyards are followed directly by Laura Brunelli with the supervision of an agronomist, a friend of hers. Sustainable viticulture is pursued, no weed killers are used, grass cover is left on the aisles between the rows of vines where vigour must be kept in check, the training system is strictly cordon spur which also makes the grape yield lower. Manual labour reaches 500 hours a year for each hectare of vineyard. Clusters are carefully selected at harvest and placed into small crates. The Brunello and the Brunello Riserva are classic and traditional: long maceration on the skins (20-25 days) in steel, malolactic in steel, maturation in large 30-35 hectolitre Slavonian oak casks. These wines improve after a few years in the bottle. The Rosso is fresh with a well preserved fruit. It is very pleasant and drinkable when young, but also after four or five years in the bottle. Only 2,000 bottles of the IGT/proprietary wine “Amor Costante”, a blend of 20% Merlot and 80% Sangiovese, are released each year. This is an extremely enjoyable and fresh wine with red fruit and wild berry tones. The estate also produces an excellent olive oil. ◊

47Type of Viticulture: Practicing Organic

MontalcinoPodernovone, Canalicchio100% Sangiovese4.3 hectares10,000 bottles

Brunello di Montalcino DOCGZone:Cru:Varietal:Vineyard Ext.:Average Prod.:


Zone: Montalcino Cru: Podernovone, Canalicchio

Varietal: 100% SangioveseVineyard Ext.: 4.3 hectares


Rosso di Montalcino DOCZone: Montalcino

Cru: Podernovone, Canalicchio Varietal: 100% Sangiovese


Toscana Rosso IGT Amor Costante

Zone: Montalcino Cru: Podernovone

Varietals: 80% Sangiovese, 20% MerlotAverage Prod.: 2,000 bottles

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Podere Il Palazzino, owned by Alessandro and Andrea Sderci, and now managed by the young generation, Claudia and Edoardo, is located in Monti in Chianti, 20 km northeast of Siena, in the southern part of Chianti near Gaiole. The estate is part of a network of farms and of country residences built or restored in the eighteenth century during the land reform enacted by Leopold Hapsburg-Lorraine, Grand Duke of Tuscany.The Sderci family became owners of the estate in the mid nineteenth century. But wine started being produced and sold more recently, at the beginning of the 1970s, when Alessandro and Andrea took over the management. The first vineyards were planted then, replacing the earlier system of interspersing grapevines with olive trees and planting crops on the aisles between the rows of trees and vines. As the original cellar was not large enough, a new underground cellar was built under the garden of the homestead.Il Palazzino is an estate with a traditional style, but with a firm organic approach to viticulture, which has received a strong boost from the young Claudia and Edoardo. Environment friendly practices are particularly meticulous here and are carried out through canopy management, soil management and grape yield management. In some vineyards, as an experiment, sulphur and copper base products are not sprayed any more (although it is allowed by the regulations for organic viticulture) and a special mixture of seaweed, bee propolis and other natural compounds that increase the defenses of the vines are utilised.The estate is not only certified organic but wines are produced with the highest respect for the different characters of the soils and vineyards and with a natural attitude in vinification. In the cellar SO2 is reduced to a minimum and nothing else is added to the wine. Only wild yeast is responsible for the alcoholic fermentation aided by some additives in order to favour natural fermentation. All types of filtering have been eliminated.The flag wine of the estate, Chianti Classico Grosso Sanese, started being produced in 1981 as a “Super Tuscan”, but after a few years it became one of the two Chianti Classico wines of Il Palazzino. Grosso Sanese is now is considered a benchmark of this area for its traditional style and its combination of elegance, finesse, equilibrium, intensity and complexity. The ageing in wood depends on the type of soil of the vineyards so to maintain the character of the wines: the elegance of Chianti Classico Grosso Sanese and the floral and aromatic quality of Chianti Classico Argenina. In addition to the two Chianti Classico wines, the estate produces a Vin Santo del Chianti Classico of extraordinary complexity and length, aged for more than ten years before bottling. Other IGT/proprietary wines complete the range of products: Rosso del Palazzino (95% Sangiovese, 5% other indigenous red berry varietals), Bertinga (60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot) and Stagi (100% Colorino). The Sderci family is supported by the oenologist Luciano Bandini and by the agronomist Ruggero Mazzilli who specialises in organic/sustainable viticulture. ◊

Tuscany

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Type of Viticulture: Certified Organic

Monti in ChiantiGrosso Sanese, Ortolino100% Sangiovese3 hectares10,000 bottles

Chianti Classico DOCG Grosso SaneseZone:Crus: Varietal:Vineyard Ext.:Average Prod.:

Chianti Classico DOCGArgenina

Zone: Monti in ChiantiCrus: Argenina, Cipriani, Orto Modesto

Varietals: 95% Sangiovese, 5% Canaiolo, Colorino


Toscana IGTRosso del Palazzino Zone: Monti in Chianti,

San Martino al VentoCrus: Casina Girasole,

Orto ModestoVarietals: 95% Sangiovese,

5% Canaiolo, ColorinoVineyard Ext.: 2 hectares

Average Prod.: 13,000 btls

Toscana IGTBertinga

Zone: Lecchi in Chianti, Argenina, Monti in Chianti

Cru: BertingaVarietals: 60% Cabernet Sauvignon,

40% MerlotVineyard Ext.: 1 hectare


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TuscanyAzienda Agricola

The estate is located within the heart of the Chianti country, in Gaiole, and the homestead dates back to 1056. Monterotondo was established in 1959 by the grandfather of the present owner, Saverio Basagni, after which it became a hobby for Saverio’s father.Saverio and his wife Fabiana now manage the property as their principal activity. All the vineyards were replanted and now the vineyard extension is 3.9 hectares. 3 hectares are planted with Sangiovese and 0.5 hectares are planted with Canaiolo, Malvasia Nera and Colorino (these 3.5 hectares are all within the Chianti Classico appellation). An extension of 0.4 hectares is planted with white grape varieties, Malvasia del Chianti, Malvasia di Candia Aromatica and Trebbiano Toscano. The philosophy of Saverio is to make excellent wine without the use of chemicals: in fact organic viticulture has been pursued for 13 years and the estate has been certified organic since 2003.The owner also firmly believes that the quality of the wine is exclusively determined by the quality of the grapes it is made from. In fact the vineyards are carefully tended: specific plants are sown on the aisles between the rows of vines, the grape yield per vine is kept at just 1-1.2 kilograms. The cellar has been completely renovated over the years and it is equipped with stainless steel vats and a bottling plant. Only Slavonian oak barrels and casks are used and the capacity is never below 5 hectolitres. Slavonian oak is preferred to French oak as it is less “aromatic” and does not cover the fruit in the wine. Only the indigenous yeasts present on the grape berry skins are responsible for fermentation and only, very little, SO2 is added to the wine.The Chianti Classico Vaggiolata is named after the slope facing south/south-east of the estate (Poggio Vaggiolata). The altitude (530-570 meters above sea level), the soil which is loose and “poor” and the exposure are the ideal conditions for Sangiovese and for the other indigenous varietals (Canaiolo and Malvasia Nera) which make up the blend of this interesting, quite unique and “full blooded” Chianti Classico, similar to a Brunello or to a Barolo with a character that greatly reflects the terroir. The wine then rests in Slavonian oak casks (7.5-10 hectolitre capacity) for 12-14 months and it is not filtered before bottling. Chianti Classico Riserva Seretina is made from a tiny plot facing south, just 3,000-4,000 square meters, planted with 20 rows of vines which are carefully tended and harvested directly by the Basagni family. The blend is mainly Sangiovese with a small percentage of Malvasia Nera. The clone is a clone of Sangiovese da Brunello that is particularly suited for the soil rich in galestro (clayey schists) and with a very good drainage and which yields very pleasant wines with spicy tones and that will age for a very long time. Slavonian oak casks (of a capacity of 7.5-10 hectolitres) are also preferred for this riserva where it matures for 24-28 months. Both wines area perfect match with “bollito misto” (mixed boiled meat), with “stracotto” (beef stew), with very seasoned cheese or with Parmigiano Reggiano that has been aged for 30 months. Saverio suggests to drink Vaggiolata during a meal, but to drink the riserva Seretina afterwards with friends, he also says that one must make great wines, but they must be drinkable and in the case of Monterotondo it is certainly true! ◊


Gaiole in Chianti (Siena)85% Sangiovese, 10% Canaiolo, 5% Malvasia Nera3.5 hectares10,000 bottles

Chianti Classico DOCG VaggiolataZone:Varietals:

Vineyard Ext.:Average Prod.:

Chianti Classico DOCG Riserva Seretina

Zone: Gaiole in Chianti (Siena)Varietals: 95% Sangiovese, 5% Malvasia Nera

Vineyard Ext.: 3.5 hectaresAverage Prod.: 3,000 bottles

Sassogrosso Malvasia di Toscana IGTZone: Gaiole in Chianti (Siena)

Varietals: 75% Malvasia del Chianti, 15% Malvasia di Candia aromatica,

10% Trebbiano ToscanoVineyard Ext.: 0.4 hectares


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When it was announced in November 2012 that Alejandro Bulgheroni had purchased the expansive Dievole estate in Chianti Classico along with a 141 hectare property in Montalcino in December 2013, we barely noticed. Why would we? Experience has taught us that the aims and results of such international investments in Italy have little in common with our interests at Marc de Grazia. However, it most definitely caught our attention when the same company, just six months later, also acquired Podere Brizio in Montalcino, an estate part of our portfolio. Then we learned that our old friend Alberto Antonini was chosen to oversee the winemaking of both.Dievole had built its reputation in the USA as more a marketing phenomenon than as a top-level Chianti Classico producer. As such, it appeared to have worn out its welcome and has been without representation there for a number of years. This is quite a squandered potential, given that Dievole is an important producer in the region, farming over 50 hectares of vineyards for Chianti Classico with 30 more to come. The property totals nearly 400 hectares situated in Vagliagli in the Castelnuovo Berardenga township. Dievole can be considered a small town in itself: pools and playgrounds, hiking paths and gardens, and within a complex of recently renovated medieval structures there are restaurants and a luxury lodging consisting of 26 suites. The property is astounding!Dievole can document over 900 years of viticultural history on the property, but what is important, of course, is what they are doing now. Our meeting with Dievole’s Presidente Enrique Almagro was a pleasant surprise: barriques have been ousted and stacked high outside the winery. Inside, after passing through a long gallery of truncated conical fermenting casks, we emerged into the main aging cellar lined on both sides with large oak casks, some Slavonian, some French. Alberto Antonini and agronomist Lorenzo Bernini undertook the project with the clearest of visions for Dievole Chianti Classico, respecting and nurturing the exceptional vineyards and applying the least intrusive methods of vinification (for details click on Dievole at www.marcdegrazia.com). Giovanni Alberio, the on-premise winemaker, guided us through a dozen examples of Dievole’s 2013 Chianti Classico from various vineyard sites, all the while laying out the new vision for both winemaking and viticulture. There was the proof, taste after taste, that they are already producing astonishingly pure and classic Chianti Classico.The extraordinary opportunity to work with them quickly became apparent to us. After meeting the new Dievole team, we recognized that today at Dievole there exists a very special confluence of history, investment, and experience, all supporting Bulgheroni’s passion to produce distinctly pure, expressive, and compelling territorial wines such as Chianti Classico. ◊

Tuscany

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Castelnuovo Berardenga (Siena)90% Sangiovese, 6% Canaiolo, 4% Colorino230,000 bottles

Chianti Classico DOCGZone:Varietals: Average Prod.:

Chianti Classico DOCG Riserva Novecento

Zone: Castelnuovo Berardenga (Siena)


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The fine microclimate and unique soil characteristics surrounding the medieval town of Lucignano, only a mile outside the western border of the Chianti Classico, make it without a doubt the finest cru of the Chianti Colli Fiorentini appellation. The wines of Lucignano are extremely consistent in quality, achieving remarkable results even in the least favourable vintages. Its soils, moreover, (totally unlike those of the Chianti Classico), seem to be responsible for the unusual resilience of the complementary Canaiolo varietal grown there, the quality of which I have never seen equalled elsewhere, and whose relatively abundant presence in Lucignano’s Chianti certainly contributes to its unerringly fine quality. Under these auspices, Niccolò, Ilaria, Angelica and Desideria Guicciardini (after their father, Count Lodovico, passed away in 2003), together with oenologist Federico Staderini and agronomist Riccardo Galli, perpetuate the reputation that has made the wines of Lucignano among the most sought after products of the Florentine hillsides. Since 1988 (when I decided to add the Estate to my selections), Lucignano cultivates only the finest vineyards, having rented out the ones that they no longer felt were up to the quality they required. The Chianti from this estate is a remarkably fine, fruity and soft wine gifted with a notable bouquet, floral and berry-like, it is unlike any other Chianti I have encountered in this appellation - a sign of the unique characteristics of its cru. Significantly enough, Count Guicciardini was piqued at having to call his wine Chianti - in his, and history’s, opinion, a ridiculous misnomer which appellation laws have fostered upon it. There was a time, before the advent of mass media, when the cru of Lucignano was as well known and sought after as the best of the Chianti Classico. Those were the days! With its appealingly reasonable price it is my answer to the overwhelming output and encroaching presence of cheap and cheaply made wines that have invaded the markets of the world. The estate also offers a lovely Vin Santo and a Chianti Riserva. ◊

Tuscany


S. Casciano Val di PesaLucignano85% Sangiovese, 10% Canaiolo, 5% other red berry varietals32 hectares140,000 bottles

Chianti Colli Fiorentini DOCGZone:CruVarietals:


Vin Santo del Chianti DOC Zone: S. Casciano Val di Pesa

Varietals: 80% Trebbiano, 20% Malvasia Bianca Toscana

Vineyard Ext.: 2.5 hectaresAverage Prod.: 5,000 half-bottles

Chianti Riserva DOCG Zone: S. Casciano and Montespertoli

Varietals: Sangiovese, Colorino, CanaioloAverage Prod.: 6,000 bottles

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Fattoria

In Italy the name of Carmignano, a small hillside town northwest of Florence, has been synonymous with fine wines since the 13th century, and documents attest to a sale of Carmignano in 1396 at four times the price of other contemporary prestigious wines. So great was its reputation that Cosimo III de’ Medici, Grand Duke of Tuscany, decreed in 1716 that the appellation be strictly controlled, as well as the harvests and the sales, whether local or abroad. The confines of the ancient appellation remain identical to this day, making it one of the smallest D.O.C.G. areas of Italy. The wine itself has a physiognomy all of its own for, although its varietal makeup is similar to that of the Chianti (high percentage of Sangiovese), a minimum of 10% of Cabernet Sauvignon and Franc is compulsory in its blend. These varietals were introduced in the area by Caterina de’ Medici in the XVI Century and called Uva Francesca (French grape). In addition there is an allowance of 20% of Canaiolo Nero and up to 10% of other varietals including Merlot, Syrah and such native Tuscan vines as Colorino, Mammolo, and even some Occhio di Pernice. Thus, in Carmignano we find wines characteristically richer than those of the Chianti: of more obvious structure and colour, more prodigal in their longevity and of better defined character. And yet Carmignano is not what one would call a big or tannic wine, nor does it have the rigour of a Brunello di Montalcino. Its richness is smooth and accessible and its bouquet expresses itself in finesse rather than in power. It likes wood, but not too much of it and, rightly (for once!), the laws governing its production demand only eight months in wood, twelve months for the Riserva. The Ambra estate has its vineyards in four of the best crus of Carmignano: Santa Cristina in Pilli, Montalbiolo, Elzana and Montefortini, close to the Etruscan tomb bearing the same name. Giuseppe Rigoli, the agronomist who owns the estate, mainly employs Sangiovese, Cabernet and Canaiolo Nero. Thus, Ambra’s Carmignano has a concentration and deep aristrocratic “robe” quite unique among its leaner siblings. The estate is small, the total vineyard extension 20 hectares. The total output is only about 800 hectolitres which is a yield of only about 40 hectolitres per hectare; an indication of the rigid grape selection that goes into the making of this wine. Since the 1985 vintage, a Carmignano riserva has been produced, aged in small French oak (500 and 350 litre tonneaux) and from the estate’s vineyards of highest elevation, called Montalbiolo, producing a wine of unmatched elegance. 1995 brings the debut of a second Riserva, Vigna Elzana: still Galestro soil but here clay is a defining component and the resulting wine is powerful, warm-natured and opulent. The other wines of the estate are Carmignano S. Cristina in Pilli and Carmignano Montefortini Podere Lombarda (made from the vineyards standing in the homonymous crus); a fruity and fresh Barco Reale, the young version of Carmignano; a Barco Reale di Carmignano Rosato made with Sangiovese grapes harvested early and vinified in a separate vat (with maceration with the skins for 4 hours at a low temperature); a 100% Trebbiano white and a Vin Santo di Carmignano (aged for 6 years in oak “caratelli”, small barrels of a capacity of 50-100 litres). ◊

Tuscany

57


CarmignanoMontalbiolo70% Sangiovese, 20% Canaiolo Nero, 10% Cabernet1.5 hectares5,000 bottles

Carmignano DOCG Riserva MontalbioloZone:Cru:Varietals:


Carmignano DOCGSanta Cristina in Pilli

Zone: CarmignanoCru: S. Cristina in Pilli

Varietals: 75% Sangiovese, 10% Canaiolo Nero,

10% Cabernet, 5% other red berry varietals


Carmignano DOCGRiserva Elzana Zone: Carmignano

Cru: ElzanaVarietals: 90% Sangiovese,

10% CabernetVineyard Ext.: 1 hectare


Barco Reale di Carmignano DOC Zone: Carmignano

Varietals: 75% Sangiovese, 10% Canaiolo Nero, 10% Cabernet, 5% other red berry varietals


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Azienda Agricola

The estate was established in 1964 when Alibrando Dei, the grandfather of Caterina, purchased Bossona where he planted a vineyard (from which Dei’s top wine, Vino Nobile Riserva Bossona, is made). In 1973 the Martiena property was added together with the beautiful villa which was restructured in the 1930s by the well known architect Piacentini. During the first years the grapes were sold. The family then decided to start making wine and in 1985, which was an exceptional vintage, a cellar was rented in the centre of the town of Montepulciano and the first bottles of Vino Nobile di Montepulciano were produced. In 1989 a cellar with modern equipment was built next to the villa. Caterina has personally managed the estate since 1991 when she left her career in the theatre. The vineyard extension is 55 hectares, divided between the zones of Martiena, Bossona, La Ciarliana and La Piaggia on the slopes of the hill of Montepulciano. The varietals grown are mainly the ones utilized in the blend of the estate’s Vino Nobile: Sangiovese and Canaiolo. A small percentage of the varietals is international and these grapes go into the blend of the red proprietary wine “Sancta Catharina”. Another small percentage is made up of white varietals (Grechetto, Malvasia and Trebbiano) for the production of Bianco di Martiena (a second proprietary wine) and of Vin Santo di Montepulciano. All the phases of wine production now take place in the impressive new cellar entirely built in Travertino marble (from the Dei’s quarries) and glass. Energy is produced by photovoltaic panels and the temperature is kept even by a geothermal system. The cellar was built excavating the slope of a hill under the old cellar and it resembles one of the fossil shells that are found in the soil of the azienda. Dei produces a Vino Nobile di Montepulciano of truly superior breeding. Powerful and austere, its rich, elegant warmth betrays a firm underlying structure.This estate is certainly a reference for Vino Nobile di Montepulciano worldwide due to the extremely high quality of the wines. ◊

Tuscany


MontepulcianoBossona, Martiena90% Sangiovese, 10% Canaiolo Nero 44 hectares110,000 bottles

Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCGZone:Cru: Varietals:


Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG Riserva BossonaZone: Montepulciano

Cru: BossonaVarietal: 100% Sangiovese

Vineyard Ext.: selection over 13 hectaresAverage Prod.: 13,000 bottles

Rosso di Montepulciano DOC Zone: Montepulciano

Cru: Bossona, MartienaVarietals: 90% Sangiovese,

5% Canaiolo Nero, 5% MerlotAverage Prod.: 100,000 bottles

Toscana Rosso IGTSancta Catharina Zone: Montepulciano

Varietals: 30% Sangiovese, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon,

30% Merlot, 10% Petit VerdotVineyard Ext.: 2.5 hectares


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Vernaccia di San Gimignano is the only Tuscan white wine with a historical identity and, at its best, with a wonderful and lively personality. Its reputation dating back to the Middle Ages, the wine’s ebullience was duly noted by Michelangelo who with a perceptive poetical flight described it as a wine that “kisses, bites, stings and caresses”, perfectly capturing its delicate yet sinewy character. This wine was the first in Italy to be awarded the DOC status in 1966, which was then upgraded to DOCG in 1993.The parents of Franco Troiani (the talented owner and manager of the estate who tragically passed away in June 2014 and whom we all miss) moved from the Marche to Tuscany in 1959 and purchased the estate. In the 1990s a large part of the vineyards were replanted. The Vernaccia clones were collected, and still are today, from the the oldest vineyard of the property, planted in 1980. Two or three hectares of vineyards are replanted every year. An extremely modern and partially underground cellar was built in 2001. To have modern and sophisticated equipment is particularly important for Vernaccia as this grape has a delicate nature and a very very fragile skin that breaks easily when reaching full ripeness.Fontaleoni’s vineyards stand on a prevalently calcareous soil (originating from the Pliocene Epoch) at the ideal altitude of 200-250 meters above sea level. The vine training systems are guyot and cordon spur, the traditional ones of the area, vineyard density is 4,500 plants/hectare. Vineyard management is meticulous and carried out entirely by hand: only sulphur and copper base products are used, very little and only organic fertilizers are spread, grass is left on every other aisle. Grape yield is kept low by thinning the buds during the budding phase and the clusters at veraison (the phase when the berries change colour) and before harvest. The estate is in the conversion phase to be certified organic.The touch of Paolo Caciorgna, who consults for Fontaleoni, is evident in the lovely wines. Three Vernaccia di San Gimignano are made: two “base” versions and a Vernaccia made from a selection of the best clusters grown in the best vineyards. A Chianti and a Chianti Colli Senesi are also produced. Franco’s son and daughter now run the estate: Matteo, an agronomist, manages the cellar and the vineyards and Simona, who has a degree in foreign languages, takes care of the marketing issues. ◊

Tuscany

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S. Gimignano100% Vernaccia15 hectares70,000 bottles

Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCGZone:Varietal:Vineyard Ext.:Average Prod.:

Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCGCasanuova

Zone: S. GimignanoVarietals: 95% Vernaccia, 5% Chardonnay

Vineyard Ext.: selection over 13 hectaresAverage Prod.: 6,000 bottles

Chianti Colli Senesi DOCG Zone: S. Gimignano

Varietals: 95% Sangiovese, 5% Canaiolo


Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCGRiserva

Zone: S. GimignanoVarietal: 100% VernacciaVineyard Ext.: 2 hectares



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Tenuta Le Calcinaie is a beautiful small estate just three kilometres from the town of San Gimignano (in the province of Siena). It is named after the composition of the soil of this zone: in fact layers of limestone, originating from marine deposits of the Pliocene epoch, are found at half a meter underground (“calce” means lime in Italian). Simone Santini, a wine technician, is the owner: he planted his first hectare with Vernaccia vines, the “Vigna ai Sassi” vineyard, in 1986 and in 1989 he planted 7,000 square meters with red grape varieties. At the time he was also working as a bricklayer. The 1993 vintage of Teodoro, 100% Sangiovese, was the first wine he released (only one barrique was bottled) followed by the 1995 vintage of Vernaccia di San Gimignano. At first Simone contracted vineyards then he gradually bought plots of land. The total vineyard extension is now 12 hectares and the average production is 70,000 bottles/year. Since 1995 viticulture follows the organic protocol, the vineyards are certified organic since 1998 and since 2012 also the wines are certified organic (according to the EU regulation). At first the wines were vinified and matured in a small cellar, then a new cellar was completed in 2006. It is built underground so that the temperature is kept even. Furthermore, an optimal level of humidity is obtained as the front part is insulated and the back walls are made with reinforced concrete which is permeable and lets the moisture from the ground seep through. The composition of the soil – layers of limestone topped by layers of clay, sand and fossils – yields mineral, structured and flavourful whites. The delicate skin of the Vernaccia grapes is protected from the sun by the north-eastern exposure of the vineyards. The reds are grown on the higher part of the property and the soils are skeletal and made up of brown clay: this enhances the colour and power in the wines. The altitude of the vineyards is between 200 and 250 meters above sea level. A Vernaccia di San Gimignano, a Vernaccia di San Gimignano Riserva, a Chianti Colli Senesi, a Chianti Colli Senesi Riserva and three IGT/proprietary wines are made. Two 100% Sangiovese and one 100% Merlot. “Ingredienti Uva” is a 100 % Sangiovese proprietary wine made without the use of sulphites. The Vernaccia di San Gimignano of Le Calcinaie is a prime example of why this appellation was the first to deserve formal D.O.C recognition in 1966 (it was then awarded the DOCG status in 1993). Simone describes his Vernaccia as a young girl, who is full of life and happy, running in a meadow covered with flowers in April. This wine is fresh, fragrant and enticing. The Vernaccia Riserva (Vernaccia di San Gimignano is one of the few Italian white wines which is made in the “riserva” version), instead, is described as a fascinating woman who has reached her maximum physical and intellectual (good) qualities. This Riserva is made from the oldest vineyard of the Tenuta and matures for two years on the lees in steel. The reds are equally remarkable: the Sangiovese and Merlot show the power, flavour and elegance given by the terroir and climate of this zone of Tuscany. The philosophy of Simone: the vines must acquire the wisdom of an old vigneron. This means that the vines must have energy and health and also the awareness of when to concentrate on the ripening of the grapes instead of on the development of the canopy. ◊

Tuscany

63


S. GimignanoLe Calcinaie100% Vernaccia6 hectares35,000 bottles

Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCGZone:Cru: Varietal:Vineyard Ext.:Average Prod.:

Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCGRiserva Vigna ai Sassi

Zone: S. GimignanoCru: Vigna ai Sassi

Varietals: 90% Vernaccia, 10% ChardonnayVineyard Ext.: 1 hectare


Chianti Colli Senesi DOCG Zone: S. Gimignano


Toscana Rosso IGTTeodoro

Zone: S. GimignanoCru: Le Calcinaie

Varietals: 75%Sangiovese, 20% Merlot , 5% Cabernet Sauv.

Vineyard Ext.: 0.6 hectaresAverage Prod.: 2,000 bottles

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The estate was established at the beginning of the 1900s, but viticulture started being the main activity in the 1960s. The first bottling was in 1996. The vineyard extension is 20 hectares grown with Sangiovese, Ciliegiolo and Vermentino (2 hectares within the province of Massa Carrara). Azienda Agricola Leonardo Salustri is in the heart of Tuscan Maremma on the slopes of Monte Amiata near the medieval town of Cinigiano, and between Montalcino (the estate is just 15 kilometers from Montalcino) and Scansano. The hills of Poggi del Sasso, where the vineyards stand, have a particularly favourable microclimate for viticulture, due to the altitude and to the sea breezes, due to the concentrated sun on the top of these hills and due to the composition of the soil. In fact this area is ideal for organic farming, as there are very few problems with disease and pests. The Salustri family has used environment friendly practices for three generations and Leonardo and Marco only perfected them.Furthermore, the DOC Montecucco was established in 1998 by Leonardo Salustri together with another estate. The clones of Sangiovese, Vermentino and Ciliegiolo have been selected in the old vineyards of the estate with the collaboration of the University of Pisa and have been classified, by the University, as “Salustri biotypes”. Leonardo Salustri and his son Marco manage the azienda directly, without consultants, following the tradition of Maremma and of their family.The grapes are monitored closely throughout the vegetative cycle and the clusters are selected carefully during harvest so that only the best grapes are vinified.The cellar was built in 1996 and enlarged in 2006 and it is equipped with steel vats with temperature control and with large oak casks. The practices in the cellar follow a minimum handling philosophy, no chemical products are added to the wine, wines are stabilized through decantation and the alcoholic and malolactic fermentations are spontaneous. The wines mature in large oak casks (25-50 hectolitre capacity). The estate is certified organic since 1994. The range of wines consists of Montecucco DOC, Montecucco Sangiovese DOCG and of an IGT/proprietary wine made exclusively with Vermentino. The wines are all remarkable, elegant and with a lot of personality. ◊

TuscanyAzienda

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Poggi del Sasso, Cinigiano (Grosseto)90% Sangiovese, 10% Ciliegiolo 6 hectares30,000 bottles

Montecucco Rosso DOC MarleoZone: Varietal:Vineyard Ext.:Average Prod.:

Montecucco Sangiovese DOCG Grotte Rosse

Zone: Poggi del Sasso, Cinigiano (Grosseto)Varietal: 100% Sangiovese


Montecucco Sangiovese DOCG Santa Marta

Zone: Poggi del Sasso, Cinigiano (Grosseto)Varietal: 100% Sangiovese


Toscana IGT Vermentino Narà Zone: Poggi del Sasso, Cinigiano (Grosseto)

and Massa CarraraVarietal: 100% Vermentino


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After many years working in the family business, Marco decided to establish his own estate in 2010 and to develop a project to value the indigenous grape varieties of the area. The azienda is in the heart of Tuscan Maremma on the slopes of Monte Amiata near the medieval town of Cinigiano, and between Montalcino and Scansano. The hills of Poggi del Sasso, where the vineyards stand, have a particularly favourable microclimate for viticulture, due to the altitude (400 meters above sea level) and to the sea breezes (the coast is just 25 kilometres away), due to the concentrated sun on the top of these hills and due to the composition of the soil. In fact this area is ideal for organic farming, as there are very few problems with disease and pests. The vineyards extend for 7 hectares. The grape varieties planted are mainly Ciliegiolo together with a small quantity of Sangiovese. The age of the vines is from 7 to 50 years. The exposure is south/east. The composition of the soil is sandstone. The clones of Ciliegiolo and of Sangiovese have been selected in the old vineyards of the Salustri Leonardo estate (Leonardo is Marco’s father) with the collaboration of the University of Pisa and have been classified, by the University, as “Salustri biotypes”. The estate is certified organic since 2012. Marco utilises the modern and well equipped cellar of his father’s neighbouring estate. The main wine, an IGT/proprietary wine called “L’Ideale”, is exclusively made with Ciliegiolo. The total annual production at present is 25,000 bottles/year, but Marco would like to increase it to 40,000 bottles/year. ◊

Tuscany


Poggi del Sasso, Cinigiano (Grosseto)100% Ciliegiolo6.5 hectares20,000 bottles

Toscana IGT Ciliegiolo L’IdealeZone:Varietal:Vineyard Ext.:Average Prod.:

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Fattoria

Fattoria Casa di Terra is a family run estate in the heart of Bolgheri on the Tuscan coast (Maremma).The Fattoria was purchased in 1956 when the grandparents of the present owners moved to Maremma from the Marche. At first mainly fruit trees and vegetables were grown, as in most of the local farms, then in the 1990s vineyards gradually started being planted reaching 45 hectares (33 of which are within the Bolgheri DOC appellation) from the initial 3 hectares. The present vineyards were planted in 2002, 2003, 2004, 2011 and 2013. Vineyards for an extension of 12 hectares were planted in the area of Cecina (a nearby town on the coast) in 2006 and in 2007. An additional 3.5 hectares are being planted at the moment. The grape varieties are mainly French, typical of Bolgheri: Merlot, Syrah, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot, Malbec, Rebo (a cross between Merlot and Teroldego), Vermentino, Viognier, Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay. The management of the owners Giuliano and Gessica Frollani, brother and sister, is truly “hands on”. Giuliano worked for many years as a farm contractor for the neighbouring estates and he directly follows all the agricultural operations in the vineyards and the cellar. Gessica, who was a professional football player in the Italian “serie A” (premier league), follows the administration. The staff is young and very motivated. Diego Mugnaini is the on-premise oenologist and agronomist. Diego has worked with the well known oenologist Alberto Antonini and has had experience abroad in Australia and in New Zealand. Emiliano Falsini, who consults for other estates of our portfolio, is the consultant oenologist. Stefania Brunetti and Alberto Rossi, previously employed by one of the largest Tuscan estates, follow the marketing issues. The vineyards are kept as a garden. In one area of the property, the rows of vineyards are perpendicular to the coast and divided by rows of olive trees, a really beautiful sight! Specific vegetation is sown on most of the aisles and no herbicides are used. Viticulture is strictly sustainable. The vine training system is cordon spur. The soil is typical of Bolgheri: sandy-clayey, clayey with pebbles, red ferrous clay with sand.The new and modern 7,500 square meter cellar is built following eco-sustainable principles and it is designed so to blend in the landscape. There is a lot of glass in order to use natural light and the colours are soft brown and greys as the soil of Maremma. The cellar is equipped with 107 steel vats and with 400 French oak barriques that are gradually being substituted with tonneaux. The practices in the cellar are aimed at keeping the integrity of the wines as much as possible and the fermentation of the reds is spontaneous.The wines are Bolgheri DOC Rosso, Bianco and Rosato and IGT/proprietary wines. The classical wine of the estate is Bolgheri Rosso DOC Moreccio (a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah) which was included amongst the best 100 wines in the world by Wine Spectator with the 2007 vintage. The Vermentino Bolgheri DOC is mineral, elegant and extremely pleasant, Bolgheri DOC Mosaico (a blend of Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot) shows how well these French varieties have adapted to this beautiful Tuscan terroir. The total average production is 350,000 bottles/year.The philosophy of the estate is to produce elegant and drinkable wines that are accessible to the professional and private customer alike. ◊

Tuscany


Bolgheri50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot, 10% Syrah120,000 bottles

Bolgheri DOC MoreccioZone:Varietals:

Average Prod.:

Vermentino Bolgheri DOC Zone: Bolgheri

Varietals: 85% Vermentino, 15% Sauvignon Blanc


Bolgheri DOC Mosaico Zone: Bolgheri

Varietals: 60% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Franc,10% Petit Verdot


Toscana Rosso IGT Lenaia Zone: Bolgheri

Varietals: 50% Merlot, 25% Malbec,25% Cabernet Franc


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