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HASLEMERE TRAVELLER INSIDE: SRI LANKA EGYPT ARGENTINA VALENCIA CRUISES 2018 T10640

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Page 1: TRAVELLER · Travel, in partnership with the county’s umbrella charity supporting the youth sector, ... long-haul catering and rolling out the “best wi-fi in the sky” is

H A S L E M E R E

TRAVELLERINSIDE: SRI LANKA EGYPT ARGENTINA VALENCIA CRUISES

2018

T10640

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CONTRIBUTORS

GEMMA & RAY [email protected]

Travel book I wish I had written… 1,000 places to see before you dieMy dream travel companion is… Marilyn Monroe – as two blonde gals I think we’d have a blast!

If I won the lottery… I’d buy a private plane, so I could jet off anytime, anywhere TERRY

[email protected]

Travel book I wish I had written… Three Men in a Boat by Jerome K Jerome

My dream travel companion is… Actress Margaret Rutherford

If I won the lottery… I would spend time touring South America and the South Pacific

SUSIE [email protected]

Travel book I wish I had written… The Beach by Alex Garland

My dream travel companion is… Johnny Depp

If I won the lottery… I would travel the world in first class

JACKIE [email protected]

Travel book I wish I had written… Around the World in 80 days by Michael Palin

My dream travel companion is… Ewan McGregor

If I won the lottery… Experience the thrill of a Schoeman’s Skeleton Coast flying safari; travel through South and Central America

HANNA F [email protected]

Travel book I wish I had written… Does a Good Pub Guide class as a travel book…?

My dream travel companion is… Liam Neeson, there’s something about his voice that I could listen to for hours

If I won the lottery… I would definitely travel the world with family

ALY [email protected]

Travel book I wish I had written… Paul Theroux’s first book, Great Railway BazaarMy dream travel companion is… Stephen Fry, Katharine Hepburn and Judi Dench for intelligent wit.

If I won the lottery… Hire Necker Island for a huge party for family and friends – and to write my novel

More than 40 deserving young people, aged from 7 to 18 years-old and from all areas of Surrey, were rewarded at our Surrey Young Superstars 2017 awards, in May. Trophies and certificates were presented by H.M Lord-Lieutenant of Surrey, Mr Michael More-Molyneux at a special ceremony at the Guildford Harbour Hotel.

The fifth annual awards recognised outstanding young people in several categories for their community work in Surrey. The scheme was founded and organised by Haslemere Travel, in partnership with the county’s umbrella charity supporting the youth sector, Surrey Youth Focus; the event was attended by more than 130 guests, families and friends of the winners.

For the first time, the 2017 Surrey Young Superstars awards were generously sponsored by NatWest. And we are thrilled to report that the bank is supporting the 2018 awards again, which will take place on May 6th 2018 in Guildford. Do watch out for news of how to enter - for free - on the Surrey Young Superstars 2018 facebook page, or follow our newsletter and website.

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W E L C O M E

As ever, it has been an exciting year in the world of travel, with plenty of new reasons to grab the passport.

Such as the eye-catching, Louvre Abu Dhabi’s multi-million dollar “universal” art museum in the desert, on Saadiyat Island. Only an hour’s drive from Dubai, it adds to the appeal of its F1 circuit and Ferrari World theme park. Dubai has also recently opened a fabulous opera house (see p10). Trekkers will also love the new, challenging Jordan Trail, which includes walks to the Red Sea at Aqaba, as well as stunning Petra.

In Europe, Paris is installing new drinking fountains around the capital, which provide fizzy water on tap for free! And in Billund in western Denmark, built of millions of the popular children’s plastic stackable bricks, the 130,000sqft Lego House opened in September as a museum/playspace, ideal for children (and adults!) Refreshingly, the commercial aspect of the venue is low key. And the 2nd century Roman ruins at Conimbriga, two hours north of Lisbon (see p12) are now ready for visitors, having been buried under hundreds of years of debris until now.

Singapore Airlines has launched its spectacular new first class suites and it plans to install fully flat double beds in business class onboard its entire Airbus A380 fleet. After its Club World revamp, BA’s newly announced £4.4bn investment towards procuring new aircraft, upgrading existing planes, improving long-haul catering and rolling out the “best wi-fi in the sky” is also welcome news for UK travellers. Back in the UK, we are now thrilled to offer unique VIP access for tours and experiences, entertainments and stays in ancestral and private homes (see p13). Perfect for that special occasion.

And excitingly, we will launch our very first Cruise Show on Sunday, January 28th at golf and spa hotel Old Thorns in Liphook, when we will be joined by a host of luxury cruise company representatives. A fun-packed day with exclusive deals, expert talks and top tips!

For further updates, do follow us on twitter, facebook and Instagram, check our website or send me an email to sign up to our regular newsletter and we can keep you informed of the very best holiday offers, travel news and forthcoming events.

GEMMA ANTROBUS Owner

CONTENTS

3 CONTRIBUTORS Find out more about our expert team of travellers

4 ARGENTINA & BRAZIL Jackie absorbs the amazing scenery and lively culture

5 PROVENCE & CRETE Gemma’s fun in France; Jackie samples Greek island life

6 MEDITERRANEAN & CENTRAL AMERICA Terry sails in style to Monte Carlo; Maureen’s island hops

7 EGYPT Gemma is enchanted by the treasures of this ancient land

8 SRI LANKA Aly & Susie both enjoy the wildlife, scenery & sights

11 VALENCIA Gemma is treated to a surprise birthday beach & city break

10 DUBAI & MAURITIUS Gemma finds new wonders: Hanna loves family beach time

12 LISBON & ROME Gemma’s festive stay; Aly enjoys her own Grand Tour

13 WHAT’S NEW Top award; launch of new cruise show; VIP tours

14 CALENDAR OF EVENTS 2018-19 Where to go worldwide from January to December...

15 CALENDAR OF EVENTS 2018-19 ...and more ideas from January to December

© COPYRIGHT HASLEMERE TRAVEL Whilst every effort has been taken in compiling this publication, Haslemere Travel cannot accept responsbility for any inaccuracies or omissions. Haslemere Travel reserves all rights including copyrights in this Guide. This Guide may not be copied, reprinted, reproduced or transmitted in any form or in part without prior written consent of Haslemere Travel. Haslemere Travel will take any necessary legal steps including issuing proceedings and seeking damages to enforce its rights in this Guide. Information correct at time of going to print. Subject to change without notice. Hotels and facilities featured are detailed only as a guide and not given as a recommendation or recommended above any other. Inclusion in this Guide should not be seen as a recommendation by Haslemere Travel.

Published in 2017 Haslemere Travel Ltd, 2/4 Petworth Road, Haslemere, Surrey, GU27 2HR Tel: 01428 658 777

DESIGN & PRODUCTION The Travel Network Group www.thetravelnetworkgroup.co.uk Printed on certified paper from managed forests using vegetable based inks.

Cover Image: A majestic Sri Lankan leopard, photographed at Chena Huts, Yala National Park. See pps 8-9

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A D V E N T U R E

ARGENTINA & BRAZIL

“ARGENTINA HAS WILDLY DIFFERING LANDSCAPES, FROM DESERTS TO GLACIERS”

A R G E N T I N A & B R A Z I LJACKIE ABSORBS THE AMAZING SCENERY AND LIVELY CULTURE

Argentina has wildly differing landscapes; deserts, lush farming countryside, lakes, the breath-taking Andes, and the mighty glaciers of Southern Patagonia. It is a huge country with a relatively small population and a culture based on agriculture and the cattle breeding of the Gauchos. There is a strong European heritage too, which is evident particularly in the capital of Buenos Aires.

My first stop in March was in the Las Pampas area, at La Bamba de Areco, only 2 hours from the airport. A great place to recuperate from the flight, it is in rich farming/horse country and my ‘estancia’ (estate) was typical of those which are polo-based. We were escorted down the drive by a horseback rider! The grounds were lovely with manicured lawns, a gorgeous pool and naturally we went riding.

The city of Buenos Aires has an almost European feel in places with its architecture and hosts a myriad of restaurants, shows and bars. We visited the Teatro Colon, a lovely building; it was a treat to see the world famous opera house in action. The Boca area is colourful, but can be busy; my favourite area was the Palermo Viejo district where I was staying, at the boutique, 11-bedroom Legado Mitico, with its spacious rooms and eclectic decor. I also recommend a small, relatively unknown (but authentic) tango show, Almacen in San Telmo.

Patagonia is a 3-hour flight away, but well worth the effort for the magnificent scenery; Moreno

Glacier is astonishing and reached easily from our base at Calafate. En route you get a glimpse of the vast Patagonian steppe before reaching the glacier on the edge of a long, narrow lake. A trek here is strongly advised, as it gives you a different perspective on the glacier; wearing ski wear, we were given crampons and a short lesson on how to walk on ice. A memorable trip. Next day we did further horse riding near to Eolo (which boasts a beautiful luxury lodge), an ideal way to enjoy more of the hills (inaccessible by vehicle), a special memory.

The extraordinary Iguazu Falls are an easy flight from Buenos Aires. Flowing between the Argentinian and Brazilian side, surrounded by tropical forest, the most dramatic location to enjoy the water is the Devils Mouth, exhilarating. I stayed at the Belmond Hotel das Cataratas on the Brazilian side, which is the only hotel in the Iguazu Park, within walking distance of the falls, with exclusive access in the evening and early morning before it opens; sunset was memorable.

Larger than the entirety of western Europe, Brazil’s vast Amazon basin with the world’s largest rain forest covers more than a third of the country, while the remaining two-thirds include the green, hilly state of Sao Paulo, the NE plains and beaches, the Pantanal birdwatching sanctuary and the sub tropical forest where the falls are located. And you cannot miss the Afro Brazilian rhythms. I loved the town of Paraty, with its 18th century colonial architecture, cobbled streets, white-washed houses and brightly painted windows. The harbour is dotted with colourful boats, which can take you to any one of the tropical islands which fringe the coastline.

There is a great selection of restaurants, art galleries and local craft shops. Here I stayed at my favourite hotel of the trip, Casa Turquesa, in the historic centre in front of the port. The welcome is genuine and personal from Tete the charming owner and the food was delicious, a never-ending offering! With only nine rooms, all are individual and decorated with a splash of colour. I particularly liked the pair of Havaianas flip flops for each guest, a nice touch.

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“I LOVED THE TOWN OF PARATY, WITH ITS 18TH CENTURY COLONIAL ARCHITECTURE”

Forty minutes away is Picinguaba, a traditional fishing village with a rugged, untamed coastline – this is a place to get away from it all. Its Pousada is set on a hillside surrounded by forest, with wonderful views. Next was the vibrant city of Rio de Janeiro, unique in having huge beaches (such as famous Copacabana and Ipanema) and a city side by side. Its dramatic setting is best enjoyed from either Corcovado (statue of Christ the Redeemer) or Sugarloaf Mountain, two must excursions. The colourful stairway of Lapa is also worth a visit, decorated with mirrors, mosaics and tiles. (A sea view is a must here and Porto Bay International is a modern hotel in a good location.) The Saint Teresa district hosts the best restaurants, with fabulous views of the city; I enjoyed Aprazivel especially.

P R O V E N C EGemma revels in a fun week in Provence

It may be only just over an hour’s flight to Nice, but Provence is such a pleasant shock to the British system; even in May, the sun was shining brightly and the skies were azure blue. During half-term we headed for the award-winning 5-star resort hotel of Terre Blanche, about 50 minutes drive from the airport, set in the rolling hills, close to the celebrated French Riviera.

Set on 750 acres and designed like a Provencal village, there are 115 suites and villas to choose from, as well as an amazing spa, four restaurants (one with a Michelin star) and two 18-hole championship golf courses designed by ex-professional and renowned golf course architect Dave Thomas. Brunch on Sunday was delicious and it appears

many travel from miles away to bag a table; it’s certainly the place to be seen. A real highlight for all of us was the buggy adventure, exploring the local countryside, both on the country roads and off-road, stopping midway at a small vineyard to sample local wines and olive oils. So much fun! (If buggies are not your scene, there are also electric bikes if you don’t want to venture too far.)

It’s an ideal location for children, who have their own separate check-in, and an excellent kids club; there is an excellent babysitting service too, with plenty of kids amenities in the rooms available. So the children will be well looked after when Mum and Dad enjoy the award-winning spa, a game of tennis or a round of golf.

F A M I L Y T R I P S

Jackie samples Greek island life in the luxury resort of Elounda

In June, I flew to the capital Heraklion and arrived at the welcoming resort of Elounda at Mirabello Bay, on the NE coast of Crete, after just a one hour and 15 minute transfer. In an area first developed by the Kokotos family, who still own and run the three hotels here, each property has their own style and attractions for different clients.

They also benefit from sharing their combined facilities, such as a range of dining options, four private beaches, a 9-hole golf course, tennis courts, watersports, diving and a Six Senses Spa.

The 5-star option is Elounda Peninsula, with its contemporary décor, artefacts and deluxe Residences, its newest rooms, set away from the main hotel with indoor plunge pools in some villas.

However, I stayed in a Beachfront Suite, which had lovely views in a good setting, with a spacious outdoor area. The pools are a good size and it’s a great location for beach access.

The Elounda Mare is the only Relais & Chateaux property on the island and is much more Cretan in style, with traditional décor. I particularly liked the bungalow rooms, with private pools and terraces, which are dotted around the gardens and much more private.

Porto Elounda is a bigger, four-star hotel, which sits back from the other two hotels behind the golf course; its views are lovely as it sits on a hillside, but access to the beach and most restaurants is excellent.

The 2-bedroom suites are a great option for families and some come with their own pool. This is also where the resort’s spa and its outdoor pool are located; as you would expect from a Six Senses spa, I had an excellent massage.

Happily each of my different dining experiences was excellent and there is a huge range of activities for children. Excursions are possible to Elounda village, the little town of Plaka and the mysterious island of Spinalonga – once home to a leper colony, made famous by Victoria Hislop’s bestselling novel ‘The Island’.

If you are looking for plenty of choice from your holiday resort, Elounda is a very good option and the food and choice of restaurants are a major plus.

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C R E T E

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M E D I T E R R A N E A NTerry sails in style from Rome to Monte Carlo

In May, on arrival in Rome I took a 40-minute airport transfer to the 127-room Bernini Bristol hotel. Located in the heart of this amazing city (see p12), just south of Villa Borghese Park, with its wonderful gallery, it is only a few minutes walk from the Trevi Fountain. A 5-star, historic property, it’s decorated in traditional style with the added benefit of a Michelin-star restaurant; the views from its roof terrace are breathtaking,

A 50-minute transfer from the city centre took me to Civitavecchia to board Silversea Silver Spirit, the second largest vessel in the company’s fleet. Everything about this ship exudes luxury – my cabin’s teak-decked verandah with patio furniture, its floor-to-ceiling glass doors, spacious sitting area and marbled bathroom with full-size bath and separate shower.

Dining on board is equally luxurious, with a choice of restaurants – from the informal Hot Rocks grill to the main Relais & Chateaux chefs’ dining option (but I advise booking via your butler.) Our first stop was Portofino, an Italian fishing village with a picturesque harbour. Due to its small size, it is easy to

visit during a short trip, and there is plenty to explore; from expensive clothes shops to pretty harbour cafes and cobbled squares.

A former monastery, hotel Belmond Splendido has 64 beautiful rooms and suites, most offering balconies with views of Portofino village, harbour or the castle. With just 16 rooms, decorated in blue and white, its sister property, Splendido Mare, includes a spectacular open-air pool and tennis courts. Its excellent restaurant Chuflay overlooks the square. The wellness centre offers a wide range of treatments and makes use of the gardens for massages. A complimentary shuttle operates between the two hotels.

My final stop was Monte Carlo, where I visited the principality’s largest hotel, the Fairmont Monte Carlo, with 600-plus rooms and suites. Ideally located on the waterfront in front of the famous Casino, some rooms also overlook the notorious “hairpin bend” of the Formula One circuit. Its many dining options include a Nobu restaurant. From here it was just a short car (or exhilarating helicopter) ride to Nice airport, where I was reluctantly homeward bound

For details of our exclusive Cruise Show, see p13.

O C E A N C R U I S E S

C E N T R A L A M E R I C AMaureen enjoys many varied, island vibes

A relaxing transatlantic flight in March aboard the top tier of a spacious A380 Airbus set the scene for my trip to Miami, where we stayed overnight at Biscayne Bay, before boarding our Oceania ship, MS Marina, for our voyage.

As ever, the ship’s crew were first class – many of whom we recognised from previous cruises and greeted us warmly as friends – nothing was too much trouble. Accommodation in every category is spacious and the elegant Lalique Grand Staircase is unforgettable. Its multiple dining venues include six open-seating gourmet restaurants and the culinary centre is the only hands-on cooking school at sea.Our first stop was Cozumel, Mexico, where it was possible to enjoy snorkelling, diving in the reefs or

just lazing by the beach after a trip to a fascinating Mayan temple.

Next was Belize and the 75-acre island of Harvest Caye. I loved this place – if you can imagine the most romantic island possible, with beautiful beaches, coral reefs, lush greenery and tropical rainforests, it has it all. The ship moored right by a canopied walkway where you can just walk, laze around the pool and beach or visit the local artisans’ village.

Honduras is very different, but the people won us over immediately, they were so friendly. The highlight was a visit to an iguana reserve; I was glued to the spot as they were everywhere, and some of them were 3ft long, but I managed to take some good photos!

But my fondest memory is of our 2-day stopover in Havana, Cuba - where I took a ride in a pink Cadillac! If you like vintage cars, this is the place for you. We also enjoyed a dancing show at a local nightclub and a ride in a horse and carriage, giving us the chance to see more of the (slightly crumbling) colourful architecture of the colonial squares, with their cool cafes and bars.

Our final stop was Nassau, on the largest island in the Bahamas; a former pirate capital until 1718. We took a taxi ride around the island to the plush Atlantis hotel, but we could have visited historic villages, beautiful gardens or tried any number of water sports.

Looking forward to booking my next cruise now!

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C U L T U R A L J O U R N E Y

A N I L E C R U I S E I N E G Y P TGEMMA IS ENCHANTED BY THE MEMORABLE TREASURES OF THIS ANCIENT LAND

Nothing you have ever read prepares you for the awesome Great Pyramids and Sphinx before setting sail down the Nile. Egypt is a country with some of the most memorable monuments on our planet; it’s had to face a fair amount of turmoil in the recent past, but it is now firmly back on the tourist map. And I couldn’t wait to go!

In October, Ray and I landed in Cairo and transferred to the luxury Four Seasons at the First Residence on the Nile’s west bank, in the prestigious First Place complex. It’s the perfect spot from which to take in the capital and surrounding areas.Cairo has so much to offer visitors. Our private Egyptologist took us on a trip to the Museum of Egyptian Antiquities, which houses (strangely fascinating) macabre mummies and exquisite, golden treasures found in Tutankhamen’s tomb. Afterwards, we headed to the bustling Khan el-Khalili Bazaar and got ready to haggle over rugs, food and spices. After sunset, there was the option to see the light show at the pyramids.

The extraordinary age of these amazing buildings is mind-blowing – historians estimate that the oldest, the Great Pyramid of Giza (the largest and the only one to remain largely in tact) was built, using an estimated 2.3million building blocks, nearly 4,000 years ago. At Giza Plateau you can also see the iconic figure of the Sphinx still standing guard, or pop into the Solar Boat Museum, which houses a beautiful, restored cedar barge found buried near the Great Pyramid. (Excitingly, The Grand Egyptian Museum, which is under construction between Cairo and Giza, is due to open in Spring 2018; it will house more than 100,000 artefacts from all pharaonic periods, including those of Tutankhamen.)

After a short flight to Aswan, it was time to climb on board: our Nile cruise on the opulent Sanctuary Sun Boat III awaited. This stylish ship exudes discreet elegance, with an intimate atmosphere and personalised service. You can choose between a Royal Suite with bathtub and balcony, a Presidential suite with a bathtub or 14 luxury cabins on either side, each with Nile views. The decks provide space for sunbathing and a heated pool.

Having stopped in a private dock, after lunch we explored the laid-back city of Aswan, once one of the most strategically important locations in Ancient Egypt. After lunch, we visited the Unfinished Obelisk – an incomplete monolith that still lies half hewn from the rock at the nearby granite quarries - before returning to our boat for dinner.

“THIS IS AN EXTRAORDINARY ITINERARY WHICH WOULD APPEAL TO ALL GENERATIONS”

The following day we headed south of Cairo to Memphis and the Step Pyramid of Djoser, thought to be the oldest stone structure in the world. Then it was off to the three Great Pyramids themselves, less than an hour away from Cairo.

We started the next day with a boat trip out to Philae Temple, an ancient pilgrimage site for followers of the god Isis, located on Agilkia Island. Later, back on board, it is possible to learn how to concoct some tasty Egyptian treats with the resident chef. Then while we were eating, the ship travelled to the unusual double temple to the crocodile god Sobek, at Kom Ombo in Edfu. You can also visit the Temple of Horus, dedicated to the falcon-headed god.

On the final day on board we sailed towards Luxor, where we spent the day exploring the banks of the Nile, disembarking on the East Bank. An Egyptologist took us around the famous Temple of Luxor and imposing Temple of Karnak, which took over 1,000 years to build. Luxor is the site of the ancient city of Thebes, and is often described as the “world’s greatest open-air museum”, with its many temples and monuments.

On the West Bank, there’s the Valley of the Kings, where, for nearly five centuries BC, many rock tombs were carved for the resting place of Pharaohs and leading nobles; including, most famously, that of young Tutankhamen, whose tomb was discovered - rarely unplundered - by Howard Carter in 1922.

This is an extraordinary itinerary, which would appeal to all generations.

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S R I L A N K A

SRI LANKA

“HIDDEN AWAY IN DENSE JUNGLE FOR MANY YEARS, ITS PALACES ARE ACCESSIBLE ONCE AGAIN”

C U L T U R A L T R I A N G L E BOTH SUSIE AND ALY INDIVIDUALLY VISITED THIS ENCHANTING ISLAND

Susie: The holy Temple of the Tooth is an ideal location to appreciate the culture of the city of Kandy, set on a plateau surrounded by mountains. The large, fascinating complex houses sacred relics and is on the banks of a beautiful lake; it is best experienced during one of the daily ceremonies, when crowds of worshippers make offerings to the sound of drums and conches blowing. Its grand, annual Esala Perahera procession also includes decorated elephants parading through the streets.

A retreat from the busy throng of Kandy, Kandy House hotel has a country house feel, with beautiful gardens and a large pool. The Ultra rooms have lounges and access to private verandahs; mine also boasted its own stone Jacuzzi in the middle of the room. Dining on the terrace here is excellent. The hotel also arranged a full performance of the traditional, acrobatic Kandyan dance, with fire-eating and drums beating.

The ruins of nearby Anuradhapura are one of the most evocative sights in Asia. Now a UNESCO World Heritage Site (one of 8 in Sri Lanka), the former political/religious capital city thrived for 1,300 years before being abandoned in 993AD. Hidden away in dense jungle for many years, its palaces, monasteries and monuments are now accessible once again. I stayed at Ulagalla Resort, where I loved the villas; there are 20 with pools to choose from,

located in its 58 acres. The villas have glass walls and are very large; there is also one 2-bedroomed villa. The main entrance of the hotel is in the old mansion, looking out over a large swimming pool. A great base for 3/4 nights to explore the surrounding area and nearby places to visit. While I was there, the hotel organised a Puja ritual blessing with a Buddhist monk. We all dressed in white and walked to a quiet area; memorably, Mother Nature put on a fantastic thunder and lightning show to accompany the ceremony.

Aly: The garden city of Polonnaruwa was built in the 11th and 12th centuries and replaced Anuradhapura as the capital; it is now another fascinating World Heritage Site. Here you can see the ruins of the royal palace, the Gal Viharaya (3 enormous and very splendid statues of the Buddha in different positions), the lotus bath and the audience hall – all of which are now populated by ubiquitous macaques monkeys.

My hotel for 3 nights was the stunning Water Garden: only a year-old, it has been designed to replicate the beautiful water gardens of the famous Sigiriya rock - just 6km away and in full view from all parts of the hotel. Our two-bedroom Duplex Villa was very spacious, had its own plunge pool and living area and was close to the spa, restaurant, bar and large hotel pool. A climb up the imposing, 200m high Sigiriya outcrop is a must, but do make the trip at 7am (when it opens) as the 1,200 steps up the vertical rock face are in the shade; it’s not for the faint-hearted or unfit, but the 360-degree views and the ruined city at the top are well worth the effort.

A short drive from Sigiriya are the five, beautifully painted cave temples at the market town of Dambulla, dating back to the 1st century BC.

Susie: The fortress city of Galle on the south coast is testimony to various invasions over the centuries; its 16th century fortifications and ramparts envelope Dutch colonial buildings, ancient mosques, grand churches, museums, shops and restaurants. It’s a delight to explore on foot. I visited Fort Bazaar, a chic 18-bedroom hotel, recently opened within the Fort walls. Rooms are based around a courtyard; the décor is calm and cooling, with four-poster beds and rooms for families. The pool, cinema and spa were being built when I was there. The Church Street restaurant and bar are already very popular and it is in a great location to walk out into Galle.

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“A CLIMB UP SIGIRIYA IS A MUST, BUT DO MAKE THE ASCENT EARLY MORNING”

W I L D L I F E O P T I O N S Aly: For a sense of adventure and to truly immerse ourselves in the wild in the most eco way possible, we headed for Neil Rodrigo’s Leopard Safaris, based in Yala National Park near Kataragama (famous for its temples). Our ranger was welcoming and extremely knowledgeable and on the first game drive, our sighting of a female leopard marking her territory and serenely strolling at sunset was truly awe-inspiring. We also saw a rare King’s Mongoose; lizards; an enormous python swollen by its latest meal (a deer); sunbathing crocodiles; many wild elephants with their young; water buffalo and a multitude of birdlife, including various eagles, hornbills and storks. A good camera is an absolute must for any safari here.

Home for three nights was a large, fully customised South African safari tent, which contained a bed with a comfortable mattress, zip-up wardrobe and adjoining separate, flushable toilet and hot water shower cubicle for starlit bathing. My teenage daughter was in seventh heaven – washing in terracotta bowls and lying in bed listening to the

jungle calls was her idea of bliss. Honeymooners (or those who seek every creature comfort) would love the luxury lodge tent option; a sizeable, canvas room furnished with a romantic four-poster, king-sized bed, stylish recycled furniture and even energy-saving air conditioning. The en-suite bathroom with twin washbasins and large hot water rain shower rivals any top hotel.

The big attraction of the camp for all of us – alongside its proximity to the less busy game drives and stunning wildlife - was its eco policies. Focussed on sustainability, it is firmly committed to reducing its carbon footprint and a deep respect for its surroundings – no trees were felled to build the camp, solar panels are used and a dual battery system operates on the jeeps. A highlight of our stay was when my daughter was asked to plant a young tree near to the dining tent, as part of its reforestation project, giving us an extra reason to go back one day, hopefully. Dining was al fresco, with pre dinner drinks and delicious canapés served in the jungle “bar” with hammocks, bean bags and

easy chairs. The menu is authentic, freshly prepared Sri Lankan food, using locally grown fruits and vegetables, some of which are grown in the camp’s own garden. Dining under a ceiling of sparkling stars, with a glass of good red wine in hand and a background of jungle noises was an experience I shall never forget.

Susie: Set in 7 acres of Yala National Park in the SE of the island, Chena Huts is an amazing lodge of 14 huts and all rooms and public areas are in keeping with the park. Each luxurious, rounded hut is 1130sq ft with every mod con required and has decking with a plunge pool to relax in between game drives. Rangers here are good at spotting wildlife and very conscious that other vehicles do not crowd the animals. Chena Huts also overlooks the beach, where you may see turtles or elephants wandering down to the waters’ edge. There is a central swimming pool and both the bar and restaurant are the hub of the evenings. A fire was lit on the beach and we had a lovely dinner by candlelight. I definitely want to go back!

S R I L A N K A

Susie: Perched on a hillside at more than 1,000 ft, the Tea Suite at the Rosyth Estate, Kegalle has amazing sunrise views from its balcony. With an excellent spa and yoga sessions, this hotel is a good base for a few days away from everything, with a good selection of rooms to accommodate couples and families. It boasts a relaxed, homely atmosphere, with friendly staff.

It also has a small pool and cooking classes can be arranged; all guests are asked for their chilli rating before arriving, so the chef does not overpower the curries. As a working, 62-acre tea and rubber plantation, you are welcome to see how tea is produced in the traditional ways. Three hours from Colombo, it is a good option for a base to visit the Cultural Triangle.

For beach lovers, Anantara Peace Haven Tangalle Resort hides away on a rocky outcrop along a secluded stretch of Sri Lanka’s southernmost coastline. The 152 rooms and villas with pools are an excellent size. I was in a deluxe ocean-facing room on the 3rd floor; I loved having tea from my own teapot in the room on my balcony in the morning. There is a good stretch of beach, with gardens leading down, as well as a large spa area and kids’ club, many areas to sit in and a choice of restaurants. Situated on the beach close to Mirissa (where blue whale watching is possible in season) and Galle, the 6-bedroom Last House, Tangalle was famous Sri Lankan architect Geoffrey Bawa’s final design and would be perfect for a family or group of 14 friends to book as a whole.

Aly: A scenic, slow train ride to Ella through elevated, verdant tea plantations was a highlight of my trip. A popular trekking destination, more adventurous travellers can climb Ella Rock, visit Ravana Falls or just enjoy the cooler climate and spectacular views.

Set amid the high mountain landscape, our home for two nights was a suite at a tea planter’s historic bungalow, Secret Ella, an enchanting 10-acre estate with a small pool and views of the photogenic Nine Arches Bridge. The perfect escape above the clouds.

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S C E N I C S T O P S

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M A U R I T I U SHanna F relaxes on a family trip to this island Eden in the Indian Ocean

In June, I flew off with the family to Mauritius for a fortnight’s break; for my first week, we drove about 1.5 hours from the airport to Mauricia Beachcomber Resort & Spa at Grand Baie in the north.

The hotel resort is set in a lively location, a short walk from the beach and the bustling village. It is packed with amenities, such as a kids club, large swimming pools, tennis courts, spa and gym. The food was delicious – the large dining area caters for all tastes from breakfast to dinner, including vegetarians. Entertainment in the evening is of a high standard and the bar is a great place to relax before and after a meal, with snacks available at no cost. All of the rooms face the sea, but family apartments are located near the village (and there are 3 honeymoon suites to choose from, with their own plunge pools). As it was technically winter when we visited, it was

occasionally overcast with some ‘liquid sunshine’, but there was plenty to do; such as explore the island, or marvel at the seven-coloured earth rock formation en route to the Casela Adventure Park.

We spent our second week at Victoria Beachcomber Resort & Spa, a transfer time of about 30 minutes. Although further from its local village, we loved this hotel; set amid a 25-acre garden it was spacious, laidback and welcoming. (It is due to open an adults-only area later this year, with its own a la carte restaurant; designed with couples in mind, it’s ideal for honeymooners, with 17 novel swim-up rooms where you can take a dip from your balcony into the 800 sqm pool.)

The seafood menu is huge, but there are other options too, such as an Italian restaurant and a buffet, which offered steaks, stews, curries, pizzas and salads.

There are plenty of sunbeds by the pool and we didn’t have to fight for a spot on the beautiful beach – but do take beach shoes, as there is coral by the shore. There is plenty for children to do, such as beach football, table tennis and water sports. I recommend that children aged 3+ would love it.

NOTE: Gemma also visited Mauritius again this year, staying at the recently refurbished 5-star Trou aux Biches Beachcomber Golf Resort & Spa – often described as the most romantic hotel on the island – and was there at the same time as US actor/director Matthew McConaughey and his family while he was filming Serenity! This large tropical resort (with 6 restaurants and access to 4 golf courses) is on the NW coast, which ensures the best climate and sunsets. Accommodation is in lavish chalet-style suites, with private villas hidden away in the tropical gardens. The perfect romantic getaway.

D U B A I B E A C H H O L I D A Y S

Gemma finds new wonders in this amazing city

In May I flew out with my young daughter to the audacious architecture and Arabian deserts of Dubai, for some welcome relaxation in the sunshine; it was my sixth visit, but still we managed to find new things to do and enjoy.

Our first port of call was the stunning, new 2,000-seat, $330m opera house; shaped like a futuristic dhow and located in the heart of downtown Dubai, this cultural institution hosts the biggest names in opera, ballet, theatre and classical music and should be a must-do on any itinerary. We saw Cameron Mackintosh’s “Mary Poppins”, which was as good as any West End performance.

I visited the Waldorf Astoria Palm Jumeirah Hotel during the trip; a great ‘boutique’ hotel by Dubai standards, with only 319 rooms, all of which have magnificent views of the Arabian Gulf and the shoreline beyond. It has an intimate atmosphere, which is rare for this city and boasts 6 bars and restaurants, one of which is Social by Heinz Beck (a 3-Michelin star chef). Spas are a must for me on any trip and this time I enjoyed a spa evening at

the elegant, 302-room Shangri-La, based only 15 minutes from the international airport. I revelled in a wonderful massage and treatments, followed by dinner and cocktails overlooking the famous Burj Khalifa, lit up at night; a special evening.

Another hotel I rated highly was the Ritz-Carlton on the marina’s waterfront, which has magnificent beaches; it also has a very elegant feel, as you might expect from this hotel group. The gardens were delightful, with separate pools for adults and children and 10 eating and drinking options.

As ever, I spent some obligatory time at the shopping mall (total area of 1,124,000sqm) and visited the Dubai aquarium with over 300 species of marine life. And Ski Dubai, the Middle East’s first snow park, is extraordinary – featuring an 85m high indoor mountain with 5 slopes of varying difficulty and steepness, including the world’s first indoor black diamond run.

This is a great destination for half term or Easter holidays for families of all ages, or as a stop off en route to the Indian Ocean or further afield.

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C U L T U R A L J O U R N E Y

V A L E N C I AGEMMA IS TREATED TO A BIRTHDAY CELEBRATION IN FASCINATING VALENCIA

Looking for an ideal way to spend my birthday in September, which combined both a bit of beach and culture, my husband Ray surprised me with a trip to Valencia. It proved to be a very wise choice.

Situated on Spain’s SE coast, where the Turia River meets the Mediterranean, September is one of the peak times to go, as it is a little cooler and less busy than the summer months. We stayed at the 135-room Westin Valencia, which is the best hotel in the city and decorated in Art Deco style; some rooms and suites feature private terraces with a Jacuzzi. It isn’t right in the centre (like some of the city’s smaller properties), but very close and well located and it’s easy walking across the beautiful flower bridge to the historic part of town. The hotel has a lovely, central courtyard where we took breakfast, had drinks and enjoyed dinner. It felt like a real oasis in the city.

Overall, the city is very flat, so it’s easy for walking about and we hardly took a taxi, but there is also a good bus and tram system.

Valencia has several beaches, including some within nearby Albufera Park to the south of the city, a wetlands reserve with a freshwater lagoon and walking trails. It’s an important stopover for migratory birds and a nesting area for resident birds too.

If you go to Valencia, a visit to the City of Arts and Sciences complex is a must – it is so vast and interesting, you can easily spend the whole day there, if not longer. Several of its buildings have become icons of the city. The Oceanografic is Europe’s biggest aquarium, with 500 different species, including walrus and shark. The Hemisferic is a digital 3D cinema with a huge 99m concave screen; several films are screened daily and ones suitable for children are always included (with translations available). The Principe Felipe Science Museum encourages visitors to touch exhibits and offers scientific workshops for the real enthusiasts. Finally, the surreal shape of the Palau de les Arts Reina Sofia opera house looms above the horizon and shows opera, concerts and ballet. And to recuperate from all that culture, the huge Umbracle garden is ideal for a stroll, through its Mediterranean plants and contemporary sculptures.

Recently restored, the Gothic church of San Nicolas de Bari and San Pedro Martir is amazing and much quieter than the big cathedral; its ceiling has frescoes which rival those of the Sistine chapel in Rome; it is only 5 euros for entry with an audio guide. Stunning!

“THE CITY IS THE PERFECT SHORT-STAY COMBINATION OF BOTH BEACH AND CULTURE”

We took a bus to the beach, hired sun chairs and loungers and drank mojitos, bliss. The weather was in the high 20s, so certainly good enough to comfortably sun bathe.

We found the central market fascinating, with its huge displays of fresh seafood and pork. Food, as ever in Spain, is important here, but the best treat was thick hot chocolate and churros at either of the two Chocolatieria Volor; you can have a beer instead if the weather is hot, or have your chocolate cold, fruits with chocolate or crepes.

There are some fabulous restaurants too; we particularly enjoyed Panorama which is out on a pier looking back at the city. Vuelve Caroline was ideal for its really unique tapas (and where I celebrated my actual birthday). Or try 120-year old La Pepica, home to the paella.

Other special sights include the Plaza de Toros, for some amazing shows and concerts (not necessarily for the bullfighting…); the IVAM, the first modern art museum in Spain, which has some fabulous and thought-provoking pieces and the National Ceramics Museum, housed in a 15th century palace which was refurbished in 1740 with a magnificent alabaster entrance.

And if you still have time, there is some great shopping to be done in Valencia too! A perfect location for that special weekend away.

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W H A T ’ S N E W . . .

In February, Haslemere Travel’s owner Gemma Antrobus was presented with a prestigious, international travel award at a gala dinner in Deauville, France – while the agency also received the top designation for luxury travel, one of only five in the UK to be awarded “1st Grand Designer” and the only agency outside London to be chosen for this special honour.

Gemma was awarded the title of “Most Creative Designer” of travel experiences at the luxury travel industry organisation Traveller Made awards - attended by more than 600 hoteliers and travel experts - beating agencies from as far afield as France, Brazil and India. The selection criteria demanded the winner should be renowned for “imaginative, knowledgeable, curious, inventive, ingenious and inspirational” ideas for travel experiences for their clients.

“1st Grand Designer” is the highest honour in this organisation, with only 101 agencies recognized as such, among a membership of selected luxury travel agencies from 58 countries. The agency may now use an official seal, recognised globally as a sign of excellence.

“This accolade is an amazing achievement for Haslemere Travel as a whole and I am also immensely proud to be recognized by my peers globally in the luxury travel industry,” said Gemma.

“Above all, the 1st Grand Designer accolade is excellent news for all our clients, as it ensures that they will be at the top of the list for any VIP benefits at partner luxury hotels worldwide; such as premium upgrades and complimentary amenities, ensuring we can truly provide the best travel experience possible.”

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TOP INTERNATIONAL AWARD WIN

CRUISESHOW

NEW VIP TOURS

In our latest bid to bring clients new VIP experiences for their vacations, we are delighted to announce that we are now able to offer unique access for tours and experiences, entertainment and stays in ancestral and private homes, hosted by the owners in both the UK and abroad. Tours of the secret gardens of London, a tour of the Palace of Holyroodhouse accompanied by a former member of the royal household, or unique access to castles such as Belvoir or Princess Diana’s childhood home Althorp House are also possible. Perfect for that special proposal, anniversary or big birthday treat - or just the ideal thank you…for more information and ideas, call Gemma on 01428 658 777.

CRUISE SHOW DATE

BAGS OF FUN!

Gemma and Ray pose by the Pyramids in Giza

The Brownrigg family bask in Barcelona’s sun

Hanna made a new, giant friend in Mauritius

Aly visits the sacred sights of Kandy

Gemma soaks up the sun in Provence

Email your photos with your Haslemere Travel Eco Bag to [email protected]

and we will print them in the next newsletter and feature them on our website!

L I S B O NGemma’s festive, family city break

Lisbon proved to be the perfect choice for a four-day family break the week before Christmas. Our luxury home for the duration was the 5-star Four Seasons Hotel Ritz Lisbon, which was beautifully decorated for the festive season and ideally situated next to the 26-hectare, public Parque Eduardo VII (the site of the annual book fair).

The downhill walk to the centre of the city took a pleasant 20 minutes, but I would advise a taxi back. The good value Lisbon card gains you free entrance to many of the museums and monuments, as well as all modes of transport – bus, tram and metro. Known for its situation on seven hills, Lisbon’s famous, vintage yellow Tram 28 is an ideal way to get to know the city, as it takes you to all the popular and historic districts such as Graca, Alfama, Baixa and Estrela.

A modern tram ride takes you to the banks of the river Tagus and the sights at Belem; such as the celebrated Monument to the Discoveries, the 16th century Tower of Belem and the magnificent Jeronimos Monastery, which took a century to build. If you prefer something more contemporary, the $20m, one year-old, ultra urban MAAT (Museum of Art, Architecture and Technology) - designed by award-winning British architect Amanda Levete CBE - is well worth a visit.

No trip here would be complete without sampling the delectable Pasteis de Belem, yummy traditional warm custard tarts made to a secret recipe since 1837, with a light, crunchy casing. The queue outside highlight the shop’s location, but it’s well worth the wait, especially accompanied by a glass of white port.

Other cultural highlights include Sao Jorge Castle, the Bairro Alto area with its cobbled streets, lovely shops and plentiful restaurants, especially those selling local seafood (choose your lobster!) and fresh fish and when you are in need of some recuperation after sightseeing, the hotel has a beautiful indoor pool and spa.

R O M E E U R O P E A N B R E A K S

Aly enjoys her own classic Grand Tour

A 3-night trip to Rome in March coincided with perfect weather for sightseeing and was the ideal introduction to the city for my student daughter.

There are Renaissance palaces and amazing shops, but it is the classical ruins that most of us want to see first. Walking is by far the best way to see the city, although the Metro system is reliable and frequent and a new line is currently being extended to the Colosseum.

This awe-inspiring arena was our introduction to ancient Rome and I recommend a private guide, as the site is vast; having someone paint a picture of what life was like for a gladiator was well worth the booking (and they can help you beat the long queues).

The Forum nearby is a labyrinth of ruined temples and essentially the excavated former heart of the Roman empire. Again, our local guide was

invaluable and transported us back to the daily lives of slaves and their owners.

No trip to the Eternal City would be complete without throwing in coins into the Baroque Trevi Fountain, sitting on the picturesque Spanish Steps or a visit to the Vatican. Once again, booking a personal guide in advance allows you - via a private entrance - to move straight through to see St Peter’s Basilica, having seen the glories of the Museum and the extraordinary Sistine Chapel, saving you from having to queue again.

Modern Romans love to eat and there is no shortage of excellent restaurants; we enjoyed several in the areas of Trastevere (while taking in the Castel Sant’ Angelo) and the Jewish Ghetto in particular.

And if all the frantic sightseeing finds you craving calm, then why not go out of the city and visit the stunning Ninfa gardens, or those at Tivoli, rich in art as well as greenery?

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Haslemere Travel is thrilled to announce that we will be launching our very first, bespoke Cruise Show on Sunday, January 28th at the exclusive golf and spa hotel Old Thorns in Liphook. Our expert team of travel consultants will be joined by a host of luxury cruise company representatives, such as Silversea, Tauck, Crystal, Oceania and SeaDream Yacht Club. This promises to be a fun-packed day with exclusive deals, expert talks and top tips – the perfect way to blow away those January blues and plan sunnier days aboard a luxury ship! For further updates, do follow us on twitter, facebook and Instagram, check our website or email [email protected] to be added to our regular newsletter.

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EGYPT Witness the extraordinary Sun Festival at sunrise at the ancient temples of Abu Simbel on February 22nd. See Gemma’s report, page 7.

January

MYANMAR January 4th is a national day of celebration, marking when Myanmar (formerly Burma) declared independence from Britain in 1948. March

INDIA On March 2, Delhi will be a mass of colour for the annual Holi Festival, a religious celebration of music and partying where coloured powders are thrown.

APRIL

NETHERLANDS King’s Day (April 27) in Amsterdam celebrates King Willem-Alexander’s birthday, with street vendors, boat parades and plenty of orange!

FRANCE Lights, camera, action! The world’s film industry poses in Cannes (May 9-20) and walks the red carpets. Perfect for celeb spotting. See Gemma’s report, page 5.

May

PORTUGAL The festivals of Lisbon (June 1-30) offer music, dancing and parades in the city’s oldest neighbourhoods. See Gemma’s report, page 12.

SOUTH AFRICA Indulge in all things seafood at the Knysna Oyster Festival (June 29 - July 8), and experience the spectacular Garden Route scenery.

August

SRI LANKA Join Kandy’s 10-day Esala Perahera, one of the oldest Buddhist festival, with fire-eaters and lavishly decorated elephants. See reports, page 8.

september

FRANCE Lovers of fireworks should book a grandstand seat with champagne for the biggest display in Europe, on the banks of the Seine in Saint-Cloud, outside Paris.

October

USA Watch hundreds of brightly coloured hot air balloons launch into the sky at the annual Albuquerque International Balloon Fiesta from October 6th to 14th. NOvember

CHILE On November 22 on Dia de la Isla, a regatta and races commemorate the discovery of the archipelago in 1574.

December

TURKEY Marvel at the Whirling Dervishes’ devotees in Konya, spinning in circles wearing white robes and tall hats, a true spectacle.

WORLDWIDE EVENTS CALENDAR 2018

Our exclusive round-up of exciting cultural and sporting events and festivals around the globe. Call us on 01428 658 777 for more information about

visiting these memorable events.

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FIRST CLASS

J A C K I Eray

m a u r e e nf i o n a

k at y

Terry

Aly

Susie

Hanna F

GEMMA

AMY

LIS

Muffy

Annie

HANNA K

Haslemere Travel Ltd 2/4 Petworth Road, Haslemere, Surrey GU27 2HR Tel: 01428 658777 Fax: 01428 651415 Email: [email protected] www.haslemeretravel.co.uk