travel weekly: spain by rail

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Direct flights from the U.S. to Madrid on Iberia, Air Europe, Del- ta or American will put visitors at the country’s epicenter, and a quick transfer to the Madrid Atocha Train Station is the launching pad for a handful of lesser-known cities that offer insights into the country’s rich cultural heritage. Seville The high-speed train from Ma- drid to Seville transports passen- gers to the heart of this Moorish- influenced city in just over two hours, less than half the time it would take by car. Once there, be sure to visit the Royal Alcazar of Seville (www .alcazarsevilla.org). The site of the marriage of Charles V to Isabella of Portugal, the stunning compound features design details ranging from the Arabic period through the 19th century. Adjacent to the Alcazar is the Seville Cathedral (www.catedral desevilla.es). Built as a mosque in the 12th century, the ornate place of worship was converted to a church in 1248 when Ferdinand III conquered the city. After a day of admiring Seville’s sights, dine and take in a dynamic flamenco performance at Tablao el Arenal (www.tablaoelarenal .com), as well as the passionate sounds and movement of this time-honored tradition. Cordoba Nestled along the Guadalquivir River, Cordoba glows at night, il- luminated by the Great Mosque of Cordoba (www.catedraldecor doba.es). One of Spain’s grand- est examples of Muslim art, the mosque was converted to a cathe- dral upon the Christian conquest in 1523. A night tour is perhaps the most dramatic way to take in the majestic surroundings. To fill your day, Cordoba’s streets are dotted with shops featuring local artisans. Be on the lookout for innovatively designed leather goods by Curpay Studios or oth- er handcrafted items within the Cordoba Bazaar (www.artesania decordoba.com). Malaga Head south to take in the glori- ous vistas of this coastal town that resides on the northern side of the Alboran Sea. While visitors might be tempted to stroll along the city’s beach, Playa de la Malagu- eta, true beauty can also be found indoors. Malaga was the birthplace of Pablo Picasso, and some of the Via rail, immersing in Spain’s culture By Matthew Wexler F or the adventurous traveler with a penchant for his- tory, architecture and art, there is no better way to traverse Spain than by rail. artist’s most personal works are on exhibit at the Museo Picasso Malaga (www .museopicassomalaga .org). The collection spans eight decades, with galleries composed thematically. A visit to the Museo Carmen Thyssen Malaga (www .carmenthyssenmalaga.org), housed in a 16th century city pal- ace, reflects the wide-ranging scope of works from the Old Masters as well as naturalistic landscapes, cos- tumbrismo (paintings of everyday life) and late 19th century works. Do as the Spaniards do after a long day and settle in for a glass of wine and tapas at El Pimpi (www.elpim pi.com), a bodega that welcomes tourists and locals alike. EUROPE W W W . T R AV E LW E E K LY . C O M M AY 18, 2015 67 The Best of Europe The Best of Europe Call 800.720.6716 Visit www.centralholidays.com Make the most of your European vacation with Central Holidays, and encounter countries brimming with beauty and grandeur for which they are famous. When in Istanbul 6 Days from $594 (5) Istanbul Tuscany 6 Days from $611 (2) Montecatini Terme • (3) Siena When in Paris 6 Days from $616 (5) Paris Portugal’s Lisbon & Algarve 7 Days from $633 (3) Lisbon • (3) Algarve When in Dubrovnik 6 Days from $683 (5) Dubrovnik Highlights of Greece 7 Days from $787 (3) Athens • (3) Cruise When in Barcelona 6 Days from $863 (5) Barcelona Conditions: Prices are per person, land only based on double room occupancy. Additional restrictions may apply. Rail Europe (www.raileurope.com) is a one-stop shop for train travel throughout Spain and can also assist with hotels, attractions and even car rental if you want to go off the beaten path. Support is available via webinars, in-house training, live chat and phone to ensure the best possible options for booking. City Sightseeing Tours (www.city-sightseeing.com) may seem like a cliche choice for getting around town, but these centuries-old cities are filled with winding streets that can easily frustrate a newcomer. The hop-on/hop-off buses are a convenient shuttle between key points and leave plenty of time to ex- plore specific areas within each destination. If you’re looking for an authentic Andalusian- inspired day trip, head into the mountains for a visit to Yeguada Torrehermosa (www.torre hermosa.com). This fourth-generation, family- run horse farm breeds and sells what is known throughout the equestrian world as the “horse of kings.” You’ll feel like royalty after a pri- vate showing, lunch and flowing wine. Private groups only, by reservation. Throughout Andalusia, it’s not so much where you eat but how you eat. Cafes and bodegas abound, each serving its take on Spanish tapas. Eat like the locals and enjoy an- chovies either filleted and drizzled with olive oil or fried and served with a squeeze of lemon. Octopus with paprika oil appears on most menus, and with good reason. Iberian ham, shaved to order, is a salty, textural treat and can even be found in vending machines and train station kiosks. Fried padron peppers offer a mild kick of heat, while salmorejo riffs on gazpacho with a cool, garlicky puree of to- mato, bread and olive oil, often garnished with hard-boiled egg and, if you’re lucky, crispy bits of that famous ham. M.W. Authentic attractions ght osed useo tumbrismo (paintings of everyday The Yeguada Torrehermosa farm breeds the “horse of kings.” A view of the city of Malaga and har- bor from Gibralfaro. Inset: The first- class interior of the AVE high-speed train from Madrid to Seville. PHOTO BY MATTHEW WEXLER PHOTO BY MATTHEW WEXLER 67T0518;8.indd 67 67T0518;8.indd 67 5/13/15 4:35 PM 5/13/15 4:35 PM

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For the adventurous traveler with a penchant for history, architecture and art, there is no better way to traverse Spain than by rail.

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  • Direct flights from the U.S. to Madrid on Iberia, Air Europe, Del-ta or American will put visitors at the countrys epicenter, and a quick transfer to the Madrid Atocha Train Station is the launching pad for a handful of lesser-known cities that offer insights into the countrys rich cultural heritage.

    SevilleThe high-speed train from Ma-

    drid to Seville transports passen-gers to the heart of this Moorish-influenced city in just over two hours, less than half the time it would take by car.

    Once there, be sure to visit the Royal Alcazar of Seville (www.alcazarsevilla.org). The site of the marriage of Charles V to Isabella of Portugal, the stunning compound features design details ranging from the Arabic period through the 19th century.

    Adjacent to the Alcazar is the Seville Cathedral (www.catedraldesevilla.es). Built as a mosque in the 12th century, the ornate place

    of worship was converted to a church in 1248 when Ferdinand III conquered the city.

    After a day of admiring Sevilles sights, dine and take in a dynamic flamenco performance at Tablao el Arenal (www.tablaoelarenal.com) , as well as the passionate sounds and movement of this time-honored tradition.

    CordobaNestled along the Guadalquivir

    River, Cordoba glows at night, il-luminated by the Great Mosque of Cordoba (www.catedraldecordoba.es). One of Spains grand-est examples of Muslim art, the mosque was converted to a cathe-dral upon the Christian conquest in 1523. A night tour is perhaps the most dramatic way to take in the majestic surroundings.

    To fill your day, Cordobas streets are dotted with shops featuring local artisans. Be on the lookout for innovatively designed leather goods by Curpay Studios or oth-er handcrafted items within the

    Cordoba Bazaar (www.artesaniadecordoba.com).

    MalagaHead south to take in the glori-

    ous vistas of this coastal town that resides on the northern side of the Alboran Sea. While visitors might be tempted to stroll along the citys beach, Playa de la Malagu-eta, true beauty can also be found indoors. Malaga was the birthplace of Pablo Picasso, and some of the

    Via rail, immersing in Spains culture By Matthew Wexler

    For the adventurous traveler with a penchant for his-tory, architecture and art , there is no better way to traverse Spain than by rail.

    artists most personal works are on exhibit at the Museo Picasso Malaga (www.museopicassomalaga.org). The collection spans eight decades, with galleries composed thematically . A visit to the Museo Carmen Thyssen Malaga (www.carmenthyssenmalaga.org), housed in a 16th century city pal-ace, reflects the wide-ranging scope of works from the Old Masters as well as naturalistic landscapes, cos-

    tumbrismo (paintings of everyday life) and late 19th century works. Do as the Spaniards do after a long day and settle in for a glass of wine and tapas at El Pimpi (www.elpimpi.com), a bodega that welcomes tourists and locals alike.

    E U R O P E

    W W W . T R A V E L W E E K L Y . C O M M A Y 1 8 , 2 0 1 5 67

    The Best of EuropeThe Best of Europe

    Call 800.720.6716Visit www.centralholidays.com

    Make the most of your European vacation with Central Holidays, and encounter countriesbrimming with beauty and grandeur for which they are famous.

    When in Istanbul6 Days from $594(5) Istanbul

    Tuscany6 Days from $611 (2) Montecatini Terme (3) Siena

    When in Paris6 Days from $616(5) Paris

    Portugals Lisbon & Algarve7 Days from $633(3) Lisbon (3) Algarve

    When in Dubrovnik6 Days from $683(5) Dubrovnik

    Highlights of Greece7 Days from $787(3) Athens (3) Cruise

    When in Barcelona6 Days from $863(5) Barcelona

    Conditions: Prices are per person, land only based on double roomoccupancy. Additional restrictions may apply.

    Rail Europe (www.raileurope.com) is a one-stop shop for train travel throughout Spain and can also assist with hotels, attractions and even car rental if you want to go off the beaten path. Support is available via webinars, in-house training, live chat and phone to ensure the best possible options for booking. City Sightseeing Tours (www.city-sightseeing.com) may seem like a cliche choice for getting around town, but these centuries-old cities are filled with winding streets that can easily frustrate a newcomer. The

    hop-on/hop-off buses are a convenient shuttle between key points and leave plenty of time to ex-plore specific areas within each destination. If youre looking for an authentic Andalusian-inspired day trip, head into the mountains for a visit to Yeguada Torrehermosa (www.torrehermosa.com). This fourth-generation, family-run horse farm breeds and sells what is known throughout the equestrian world as the horse of kings. Youll feel like royalty after a pri-vate showing, lunch and flowing wine. Private groups only, by reservation. Throughout Andalusia, its not so much

    where you eat but how you eat. Cafes and bodegas abound, each serving its take on Spanish tapas. Eat like the locals and enjoy an-chovies either filleted and drizzled with olive oil or fried and served with a squeeze of lemon. Octopus with paprika oil appears on most menus, and with good reason. Iberian ham, shaved to order, is a salty, textural treat and can even be found in vending machines and train station kiosks. Fried padron peppers offer a mild kick of heat, while salmorejo riffs on gazpacho with a cool, garlicky puree of to-mato, bread and olive oil, often garnished with hard-boiled egg and, if youre lucky, crispy bits of that famous ham. M.W.

    Authentic attractions

    ght osed useo tumbrismo (paintings of everyday

    The Yeguada Torrehermosa farm breeds the horse of kings.

    A view of the city of Malaga and har-bor from Gibralfaro. Inset: The first-class interior of the AVE high-speed train from Madrid to Seville.

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    67T0518;8.indd 6767T0518;8.indd 67 5/13/15 4:35 PM5/13/15 4:35 PM

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