trail magazine - december 2011

LIVE FO

R THE O

UTD

OO

RS D

ECEM

BER

20

11

TLake District summits... by night! p32 The Brecon Beacons for thrill-seekers p54

Scotland’s secret wilderness p20

BRITAIN’S BEST-SELLING HILLWALKING MAG

CairngormsUltimate weekenderSore feet?Banish those aches

NEW LOOK!

HILL SKILLS

HILLWALKING MAG

GET YOUR MITTS ON

TOP-SPEC GLOVES: p30

DECEMBER 2011 £3.99 WWW.LIVEFORTHEOUTDOORS.COM

Bothying 6 secrets to a cosy

night in a hill shelter

Snowdon safety7 deadly dangers revealed

6000m altitude: could you cope?New £30 test to � nd out

MASTERCLASS

Fancy getting this famous peak to yourself? p32

WWW.LIVEFORTHEOUTDOORS.COM

Adventures

Instant classic?New tent that’s light, a bargain and fab: p68PLUS New Rab jacket

Routes + maps13 expert guides to mountain walks in the UK’s wild places p103

AdventuresGREAT BRITISHAdventures in the mountains!

� � � � �

AdventuresWIN

GEAR PRIZES WORTH

£ 800!

£100 hillwalking boots! 3-4 season boots!

BOOTSGEAR SPECIAL

BOOTSGEAR SPECIAL

TESTEDthe one that alm

ost got picked up from the sum

mit and blow

n away like a Gore-Tex-clad kite

front cover dec11 sw.indd 1 10/10/2011 12:08

Memory map 10A snapshot of a bygone mountain age...

Update 12Happenings from high places

Dream peak 16 All hail the rather regal Rhinog Fach

Happenings from high places

Dream peak 16All hail the rather regal Rhinog Fach

CONTENTS Where this month’s issue will take you...

Bothying 40 How to fi nd and use these remote shelters

Ask Trail 44 Using poles, sleeping bag ratings, bog hopping

Boot fi tting 50A footwear masterclass from our expert

Snowdon safety 52Seven of this winter peak’s danger spots

Trail Talk 16

Subscribe to Trail 30

Win! French Jura trip 101

The Trail tall tale 146

Scotland’s big secret 20If 1000 sq km of nothing appeals, head north with Trail to this people-free Scottish plateau

Lakes peaks by night 32 Hitting the hills in the wee small hours: a great way to see the mountains in a new, er, light

Thrills in the Beacons 54Think the Brecon Beacons are best suited to school trips? Think again!

A DV E N T U R ES

Y O U R T R A I L

S K I L L SO U T T H E R E

Watching the sunrise from the Coniston Fells after a night on the hoof: read about the whole adventure.

Subscribe and get a pair of winter mitts or gloves!

A GARMIN GPSWORTH £600!

p32

p30

8 TRAIL DECEMBER 2011 DECEMBER 2011 TRAIL 9

TOM

BA

ILEY

TOM

BA

ILEY

Pooped pair mistake signpost for bus stop – page 20.

contents dec11 sw.indd 8 10/10/2011 13:05

Gear news 64 The latest products, the greatest inventions, the stuff you need to know about

Rab Stretch Neo 66 New Polartec fabric promises top performance Wild Country Zephyros 1 68The budget tent which smashes expectations 3-4 season boots 70Year-round, crampon-compatible and costing between £140 and £230

£100 3-season boots 82 If you have a ton to spend on hillwalking footwear, which is worth a second look?

Hill-walking apps 94 Our buyer’s guide features a selection of the best phone apps for hill-goers

Used and abused 98All manner of outdoor kit gets its bum kicked in Scotland’s Monadhliath Mountains

Distance 19.3km (12 miles)Total ascent 900mTime 7-8 hoursStart/� nish Keswick, NY263235Terrain high-level fell-walk over one main peak, with clear paths throughout and

long steady ascents and descents Maps OS Explorer (1:25,000) OL4; OS Landranger (1:50,000) 89; Harvey Walker (1:40,000) and Superwalker (1:25,000)

Lakeland NorthPublic transport railway station at Penrith with regular bus services to Keswick, from where bus services

extend along the A591 – tel. 0870 608 2608; www.cumbria.gov.ukGuidebooks The Northern Fells by A Wainwright, pb Frances Lincoln

19.3km/12 miles

TRAIL ROUTE LAKE DISTRICT

7ULTIMATE WEEKEND

Always take a map on the hill

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Trail Routes in association with Mapyx A digital revolution in digital mapping for the outdoors.

www.mapyx.com

Skiddaw

dd

Finish

4

Pen yr Ole Wen

to Millbeck, where a footpath on the right climbs steeply

alongside woods and up the southern slopes of Carl Side.

You can see the path winding steeply up the slopes and

it is clear from the start that this is a tough climb. But

throughout this section the view back over Keswick to

Derwentwater in Borrowdale and the surrounding peaks

provides plenty of reason to stop and drink in the view.

Manchester

MiddlesbroughKendal

Skipton

Sheffield

Peterborough

Birmingham

Derby

Betws-y-Coed

Pembroke

Brecon

Bristol

Plymouth

PooleBodmin

Minehead

Brighton

Southampton

Oxford

Berwick-upon-Tweed

Newcastle-upon-Tyne

Edinburgh

Glasgow

Aberdeen

Inverness

Fort William

Oban

MallaigInverie

Shiel Bridge

Ullapool

Braemar

Killarney

Tralee

Dingle

Kenmare CorkWaterford

Dublin

Belfast

LondonderryDonegal

Hay-on-Wye

Llangollen

IngletonBenthamLancaster

Stranraer

Ballantrae

Ayr

Dumfries

Portree

MULL

ISLE OF SKYE

ISLE OF LEWIS

Lairg

Thurso

Invergarry

Aviemore

Newton Stewart

Jedburgh

Leeds

York

Northallerton

Barmouth

RhylConway

Cardigan

Aberystwyth

SwanseaCardiff

Gloucester

Exeter

ISLE OF ARRAN

JURA

ISLAY

HARRIS

Bodelwyddan

Liverpool

Carlisle

Penrith

Windermere

Keswick

FACTS

GRADIENT PROFILE

2

METRESABOVE SEALEVEL

140012001000800600400200

MILESKILOMETRES

Start

Finish0

0

Skiddaw

Carl Side

Applethwaite

Skiddaw House1

2

3 45

6

2 2

4 46

68

810

1012

12

1416

18

Lakes’ 4th highestpeak

128 TRAIL SEPTEMBER 2011

SEPTEMBER 2011 TRAIL 129

1 NY263235 Leave Keswick by walking along the main road away

from the centre of town and cross the River Greta. At the

next road junction a footpath on the right can be traced

through Great Crosthwaite, past Keswick School and then

over the A66. The footpath continues through fi elds to

Applethwaite.

NY264255 Quiet lanes lead from Applethwaite

NY254281 The long climb ends gradually as the angle of the slopes

decreases and you take the fi nal few steps onto Carl Side.

Carlside Tarn nestles in the saddle ahead, while Skiddaw

dominates the scene. A clear

path climbs the western slopes of Skiddaw and this

brings fi ne views west across Southerndale to the long

arm of Longside Edge, one of Skiddaw’s most shapely

features and a great way to approach the mountain.

The path onto Skiddaw is another long haul; it’s loose underfoot thanks to the crumbly Skiddaw slate.

Finally you reach the summit ridge and a short walk north

leads to the summit.NY260290 At 931m/ 3,054ft Skiddaw is

the fourth highest peak in the Lake District. Return south for 500 metres and

then descend in an easterly direction down the slopes

to Sale How and onward downhill to Skiddaw House.

NY287291 Skiddaw House lies at 1,550ft above sea-level. A clear path

continues south around the lower contours of the

steep, crumbly slopes of Lonscale Fell and high above

Glenderaterra Beck, with spectacular views. The path

leads easily back to the car park at Latrigg.

NY281253 A path now descends around the slopes of Latrigg through

woods at fi rst before crossing the A66 and leading back

into Keswick.

3

6

Autumnal slopes of Skiddaw rise above the car park on Latrigg.

YoSkiddaw

Pic 1 Autumnal slopes of Skid-daw rise above the carpark on

Latrigg.

High SeatPic The vast moorland extend-

ing south from High Seat.Cat BellsPic The clear path to Cat Bells provides an easy start.

Tags:Ideas:

Skiddaw Lakes 4th highest peakBag a Lakeland 3000 footerHigh SeatMassive moorland among the

mountainsRough and wild moorland chal-

lengeBig views from mountain

moorlandClassic views from moorland traverseMore than just moorlandCat BellsQuintessential Lakeland Fells

The ultimate classic walkKeswick's classic walk

The greatest views of KeswickIncredible views from Lakeland

Classic

1

2

3

4

5

6

STRENUOUSNESSNAVIGATIONTECHNICALITYTRAIL 1OO

��1

7-9 lake district sep11 swhlps.indd 128

14/07/2011 15:46


140012001000800600400200

MILESKILOMETRES Finish0

0

112

33 45

6

2 2

4 46

68

810

1012

14


is another long haul; it’s loose underfoot thanks to the crumbly Skiddaw slate.













into Keswick.

Distance 19.3km (12 miles)Total ascent 900mTime 7-8 hoursStart/� nish Keswick, NY263235Terrain high-level fell-walk over one main peak, with clear paths throughout and

long steady ascents and descents Maps OS Explorer (1:25,000) OL4; OS Landranger (1:50,000) 89; Harvey Walker (1:40,000) and Superwalker (1:25,000)

Lakeland NorthPublic transport railway station at Penrith with regular bus services to Keswick, from where bus services

extend along the A591 – tel. 0870 608 2608; www.cumbria.gov.ukGuidebooks The Northern Fells by A Wainwright, pb Frances Lincoln

19.3km/12 miles

TRAIL ROUTE LAKE DISTRICT

7ULTIMATE WEEKEND


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Trail Routes in association with Mapyx A digital revolution in digital mapping for the outdoors.

www.mapyx.com

Skiddaw

dd

Finish

4

Pen yr Ole Wen

to Millbeck, where a footpath on the right climbs steeply

alongside woods and up the southern slopes of Carl Side.

You can see the path winding steeply up the slopes and

it is clear from the start that this is a tough climb. But

throughout this section the view back over Keswick to

Derwentwater in Borrowdale and the surrounding peaks

provides plenty of reason to stop and drink in the view.

Manchester

MiddlesbroughKendal

Skipton

Sheffield

Peterborough

Birmingham

Derby

Betws-y-Coed

Pembroke

Brecon

Bristol

Plymouth

PooleBodmin

Minehead

Brighton

Southampton

Oxford

Berwick-upon-Tweed

Newcastle-upon-Tyne

Edinburgh

Glasgow

Aberdeen

Inverness

Fort William

Oban

MallaigInverie

Shiel Bridge

Ullapool

Braemar

Killarney

Tralee

Dingle

Kenmare CorkWaterford

Dublin

Belfast

LondonderryDonegal

Hay-on-Wye

Llangollen

IngletonBenthamLancaster

Stranraer

Ballantrae

Ayr

Dumfries

Portree

MULL

ISLE OF SKYE

ISLE OF LEWIS

Lairg

Thurso

Invergarry

Aviemore

Newton Stewart

Jedburgh

Leeds

York

Northallerton

Barmouth

RhylConway

Cardigan

Aberystwyth

SwanseaCardiff

Gloucester

Exeter

ISLE OF ARRAN

JURA

ISLAY

HARRIS

Bodelwyddan

Liverpool

Carlisle

Penrith

Windermere

Keswick

FACTS

GRADIENT PROFILE

2


140012001000800600400200

MILESKILOMETRES

Start

Finish0

0

Skiddaw

Carl Side

Applethwaite

Skiddaw House1

2

3 45

6

2 2

4 46

68

810

1012

12

1416

18

Lakes’ 4th highestpeak


SEPTEMBER 2011 TRAIL 129

1 NY263235 Leave Keswick by walking along the main road away

from the centre of town and cross the River Greta. At the

next road junction a footpath on the right can be traced

through Great Crosthwaite, past Keswick School and then

over the A66. The footpath continues through fi elds to

Applethwaite.

NY264255 Quiet lanes lead from Applethwaite

NY254281 The long climb ends gradually as the angle of the slopes

decreases and you take the fi nal few steps onto Carl Side.

Carlside Tarn nestles in the saddle ahead, while Skiddaw

dominates the scene. A clear





The path onto Skiddaw is another long haul; it’s loose underfoot thanks to the crumbly Skiddaw slate.













into Keswick.

3

6

Autumnal slopes of Skiddaw rise above the car park on Latrigg.

YoSkiddaw

Pic 1 Autumnal slopes of Skid-daw rise above the carpark on

Latrigg.

High SeatPic The vast moorland extend-

ing south from High Seat.Cat BellsPic The clear path to Cat Bells provides an easy start.

Tags:Ideas:

Skiddaw Lakes 4th highest peakBag a Lakeland 3000 footerHigh SeatMassive moorland among the

mountainsRough and wild moorland chal-

lengeBig views from mountain

moorlandClassic views from moorland traverseMore than just moorlandCat BellsQuintessential Lakeland Fells

The ultimate classic walkKeswick's classic walk

The greatest views of KeswickIncredible views from Lakeland

Classic

1

2

3

4

5

6

STRENUOUSNESSNAVIGATIONTECHNICALITYTRAIL 1OO

��1

7-9 lake district sep11 swhlps.indd 128

14/07/2011 15:46

VE SEALEVEL

1000800600400200

MILESKILOMETRES Finish0

0

Skiddaw

Carl SideSkiddaw House

112

33 452 2

4 46128 TRAIL SEPTEMBER 2011

as the angle of the slopes decreases and you take the

fi nal few steps onto Carl Side. Carlside Tarn nestles in the

saddle ahead, while Skiddaw dominates the scene. A clear

House lies at 1,550ft above sea-level. A clear path







into Keswick.

6

Distance 8.9km

(5½ miles)

Total ascent 960m

Time 5 hours

Start/� nish Glen Etive,

NN111454

Nearest town

Fort William

Terrain pathless rough

hill and wet, boggy paths

Maps OS Landranger

(1:50,000) 50

Accommodation

Kingshouse Hotel

(below), Glencoe Youth

Hostel (01855) 811219

Public transport none

Guidebooks The

Corbetts & other Hills by

Milne & Brown, pb SMC

Tourist info Fort William

0845 225 5121

Best pub Kingshouse

Hotel (01855) 851259

FACTS

8.9km/5½ miles

TRAIL ROUTE WEST HIGHLANDS

4

120 TRAIL OCTOBER 2011


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Trail Routes

in association

with Mapyx

A digital revolution in digital

mapping for the outdoors.

www.mapyx.com

Manchester

Middlesbrough

Kendal

Skipton

Sheffield

Peterborough

Birmingham

DerbyBetws-y-Coed

Pembroke

Brecon

Bristol

Plymouth

Poole

Bodmin

Minehead BrightonSouthampton

Oxford

Berwick-upon-Tweed

Newcastle

-upon-Tyne

EdinburghGlasgow

Aberdeen

Inverness

Fort William

Oban

MallaigInverie

Shiel Bridge

Ullapool

Braemar

Killarney

TraleeDingle

KenmareCork

Waterford

Dublin

Belfast

Londonderry

Donegal

Hay-on-Wye

Llangollen

Ingleton

Bentham

Lancaster

Stranraer

Ballantrae

Ayr

Dumfries

Portree

MULL

ISLE OF SKYE

ISLE OF LEWISLairg

Thurso

Invergarry

Aviemore

Newton Stewart

Jedburgh

Leeds

York

Northallerton

Barmouth

RhylConway

Cardigan

Aberystwyth

SwanseaCardiff

Gloucester

Exeter

ISLE OF ARRAN

JURA

ISLAY

HARRIS

Bodelwyddan

Liverpool

Carlisle

Penrith

Windermere

Keswick

GRADIENT PROFILE

Meall nan Gobhar

METRESABOVE

SEALEVEL

140012001000800600400200

MILES

KILOMETRES

Start

Beinn Trilleachan

Meall nan Gobhar

Finish

00

1 23

1

12

23

3

4

4

5

5

67

8

Trilleachan

4

NN111454 Start from

the car park at the end

of the public road (a little

short of that represented on

the Landranger map). Go

along the start of the track

by the side of Loch Etive and

head immediately uphill

by the side of the forestry

plantation. This is currently

in the process of being felled,

and the timber shipped out

from a jetty a short distance

along the loch. The path up

beside the fence is often very

wet and boggy, and diffi cult

to follow in places. Continue

uphill until the terrain levels

off at about 200m above

sea-level.

NN104463 Now head

in a south-westerly

direction up a very rough

hillside with frequent

rocky outcrops and boggy

areas. There is no path so

you will need to pick your

way upwards though the

outcrops. As you gain

height the ridge becomes

better-defi ned and

the vegetation less

troublesome! Aim

towards the steep

south-easterly fl ank

of the mountain

and you will

pick up a faint

path leading

to the top (pt 767m). This

is a superb vantage point

with a dramatic

setting.

NN096447

The next section

is potentially tricky in

poor visibility. A series of

rocky ledges leads down to

a narrow col at the head of

a dramatic gully. There is no

path on this section and it

would be easy to miss

the col and end up

too far down

the slope. Once at

the col a path leads

uphill onto a much

broader grassy

section of ridge.

The path is diffi cult

to follow and in mist

it is possible to miss the

summit cairn, which is set in

the middle of a plateau.

NN086438 The only

feasible option for an

enjoyable return to the start

is to retrace the outward

route – although if it’s been

very dry you may want to

descend north-east from

The view from the col between the two principal tops (pt 767 and the main summit).

If the weather closes in

you can escape to the

north-east and lower

ground, but the going is

rough and pathless with

frequent rocky slabs and

small crags. You may

need the experience

of a competent route

fi nder to safely negotiate

a route back to lower

levels. This hill is a good

all-round introduction

as it offers some

challenging bogs, as

well as some superb

and readily accessible

panoramas. It contains

enough positives to

make up for the tough

slog early on in the day. It

is also not too long a day

and it is possible to bail

out at any stage given a

competent mate!

LEADER TIP

the narrow col, aiming for

Lochan na Saobhaidhe. In

all but the driest conditions

this would prove to be

a rather masochistic

extension. It is also a viable

bail-out route should severe

conditions force you off the

main ridge line.

2

3

4

1

2

3

4

4 west highlands oct11 swlpcmja.indd 120

12/08/2011 10:19

Where this month’s issue will take you...

Southern Uplands 105Route 1 Striding ArchesA ‘walk of art’ around Dumfriesshire’s Cairnhead

Lake District 107Route 2 GrasmoorExplore the peaks above Crummock Water

Snowdonia 109Route 3 Moel SiabodA short, sharp assault on a north Wales favourite

Dartmoor 111Route 4 Merrivale Stone RowsA route with Bonze Age stone circles and more

Lake District 113Route 5 Great RiggGet up above Grasmere for captivating views

Peak District 115Route 6 Win HillTackle Derbyshire’s most famously perky peak

Aviemore 119Route 7 Meall a’ BhuachailleRoute 8 Cairn Gorm via the Fiacaill RidgeRoute 9 Braeriach via the Chalamain GapStay in one place and walk for three days! This month’s fi rst Ultimate Weekend gives three routes from this popular Cairngorm base

Dolgellau 125Route 10 Cadair Idris ridge-walkRoute 11 Rhinog Fach & Y LlethrRoute 12 Gwernan Lake Check out what north Wales has to offer! Here‘s a southern Snowdonia town with plenty to offer the hill-walker, plus a trio of top routes

Lake District 131Route 13 Mardale Round This issue’s Classic Route involves a circular walk from Haweswater reservoir, taking in High Street and Harter Fell to name two highlights

ROUTES

DECEMBER 2011

Need boots, but short on cash? Check out our £100 3-season boot test...

We put 3-4 season boots through their paces.

Always take





The path onto Skiddaw is another long haul; it’s loose underfoot thanks to



Skiddaw House lies at 1,550ft

5




GRADIENT PROFILE

Start

Beinn Trilleachan

Meall nan Gobhar

Finish

Trilleachan

a narrow col at the head of

p82

p70

GEAR

DECEMBER 2011 TRAIL 9

Classic Route

with 3D maps

TOM

BA

ILEY

costing between £140 and £230

£100 3-season boots If you have a ton to spend on hillwalking footwear, which is worth a second look?

Hill-walking apps Our buyer’s guide features a selection of the best phone apps for hill-goers

Used and abused All manner of outdoor kit gets its bum kicked in Scotland’s Monadhliath Mountains

We put 3-4 season boots through their paces.

p70

contents dec11 sw.indd 9 10/10/2011 16:42

CENTRAL SCOTLAND


Between the River Spey and Loch Ness lies a big nothing: around 1,000 square km of it. But with four Munros and an average elevation of 2,000ft, the Monadhliath Mountains may be a nothing worth getting to know…

T H E G R E A T B E Y O N D

Where? Monadhliath MountainsWhat? Exploring Scotland,s wildest wilderness

new monadliliath.indd 20 10/10/2011 08:23


Into the blank: the Monadhliath plateau looms,

north of A' Chailleach.

T H E G R E A T B E Y O N D WORDS SIMON INGRAM PHOTOGRAPHS TOM BAILEY


central scotland

december 2011 Trail 29

It was agreed. One more Munro, one more chance to get our feet under some of the blankness of that map, and then home – come reward or ruin.

It’s as if the landscape heard us. Over the next 20 minutes, something wonderful happened. Blue sky broke through. Spotlights of sun filled our surroundings with gold and green, deep shadows bringing a landscape into high definition around us. We saw yesterday’s Munro, not as a grey smudge of dangerous wind, but an elegant ridgeline, tall and steep, with crags and height and status and everything a mountain should have. Behind us, A’ Chailleach began to uncurl with distance, no longer the slope we were slogging up or huddled on top of, but in context a fine objective and a proud tick – not vulgar and spiky, just stately and commanding.

The hill we were aiming for wasn’t much to speak of in these terms: it was, to be frank, a bump – but it did deliver something.

As we crested the ridgeline we were greeted with the rusted boundary markers signifying the extreme northern edge of the Cairngorms National Park. They seemed forlorn, embarrassed almost – in point of fact, the Cairngorms and their infrastructure ended way back to the south-east. But there was something special up here. It’s from here the Monadhliath drops

28 Trail december 2011

Considering the Monadhliath, just beyond the border of the Cairngorms National Park. Below: riding out a squall on A' Chailleach's summit.



its cloak, and we were finally treated to the view I’d been desperate to see ever since I came across that map. There it was: the Monadhliath Plateau, featureless, bog-veined, the colour of moss and the size of Singapore.

I was pleased that both my companions seemed to appreciate it too; though pretty soon they had left me to my grin and turned their attention to the rest of the hills around us, some of which we’d climbed, some of which were just now popping out of the cloud to say hello.

We hadn’t really got to explore the Monadhliath. We’d climbed three of its four Munros, which was brilliant – but the weather had banned us from any deeper forays onto the plateau, so we had to make do with just the view.

I was in two minds about this: part of me was gutted that, having come so close to striking out into it, we now had to turn back; but part of me was cheered by the fact that I still had that great big, blank map sheet to cling on to if I ever start running out of places to have an adventure. And at least now I could take this image away with me.

Of course, this view might have the opposite effect on some people. Steep, craggy and deadly it is not. There isn’t a single pub in there. A large amount of it is probably boggy and the amount of swear words that will

cross your lips would probably turn the whole area blue. You’ll be miles from anywhere, for ages. The high, exposed summits studding it will be marvellous places to catch a breeze stiff enough to blow you through the sound barrier. By winter, it will be a high, arctic plateau crunchy to the foot and boundless to the eye. In summer, if it’s been raining, you’ll emerge looking like you’ve just sprinted drunk through a midden.

Sound horrible? Yes? Best go and watch telly, then. Let’s Unnecessarily Survive! is on in a bit. They’re turning mole ribs into toothpicks tonight.

But for those of you who are smiling in a deranged and earnest fashion? OS map sheet 35. It’s right there, slid quietly and unadorned between more illustrious map sheets. If you’re still not sure it’s for you, just remember this: if you think you’ll love it here, you will.

And with that, I enjoyed my long-awaited view of magnificent nothingness for a few more seconds, vowed to one day return with a stronger tent, then stepped back across the National Park boundary and headed for home. T


LAKE DISTRICT

WALK

DUSK'TILDAWN

What kind of person gets up at one in the morning just to watch the sun rise? A hill-walker on a mission, that’s who. WORDS HANNA LINDON PHOTOGRAPHS TOM BAILEY


Where? The Coniston Fells, Lake DistrictWhat? Night walking to see sunrise

night walking V4 dec11 lppsswsi.indd 32 10/10/2011 09:46

It’s 5.23am. Dead time. The crossover between the night shift and the day shift, when the clubs have closed and the greasy spoons are not yet open. On Coniston Old Man, 800m

above the Lake District dales, the grass is slowly turning the colour of hot coals. A ribbon of red runs across the horizon, delineating the giants of the Cumbrian mountain scene. There’s Helvellyn, frozen in a one-shoulder shrug behind the mottled crater of Wetherlam. Over to the west the notched V of the Scafells is half hidden by the ghost of a cloud inversion. The seconds tick past. The hills hold their breath. And then, to the strains of a silent fanfare, an orange sun boils over the horizon, spilling light down into the steaming valley. “Tea’s up!” says Jeremy.

WALK

DUSKDAWN

Proof that the early bird catches the sunrise: on Coniston Old Man.

27/07/2011 05:34


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The routeWe climbed Coniston Old Man via South Rake, Buck Pike and Dow Crag, making a 12km/7½ mile circuit past Goat's Water tarn.

WANT TO TRY IT YOURSELF?

Do a walk you knowPick an easy, familiar walk as things look di� erent in the dark. With timings (using Naismith’s rule –see p47), add 10 per cent – you'll walk slower at night.

Check the weatherThere's no point doing a night walk in bad weather – it's hard, miserable and you won't get a great sunrise, so check the forecast � rst: www.mwis.org.uk

Gain night visionUnless you need to map-read,try not to rely on your headtorch. Let your eyes get accustomed to the dark.

Don't cause a panicA torch bobbing about or camera � ashes might look like a signal for help.Notify the local Mountain Rescue Team before you go.

Pack rightTake a � ask of co� ee and warm clothing (duvet jacket, hat, gloves) plus a headtorch and a spare!

NIGHT WALKSAFELY

Best for beginners: Try the small Pendle Hill in Lancashire (SD804414) – a great starter night walk that's said to be haunted by those hung here in the 1612 witch trials

Best for sunrise: try Ingleborough (SD741745) or Helvellyn (NY341151). Both have obvious paths and you'll get great sunrise views from the plateau.

Best for star-gazing: climb Merrick (843m/2,800ft) from Bruce’s Stones (NX414803) in Galloway Forest Park – as Europe’s � rst designated Dark Sky Park, it enjoys extremely low levels of light pollution.

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Mission accomplished: summit and sunrise in the bag.


27/07/2011 05:23


Three-Peakers on Great Moss, but otherwise it was just us and this wraparound panorama of pink-tinged perfection. Why were we alone? Why weren’t the dark fells swarming with mountain connoisseurs? Okay, so one in the morning isn’t the most sociable time to be up and about, but when the reward is this…

3.40am. Our route dipped in a Cheshire cat smile, down from Dow Crag and then up again towards Coniston Old Man. It was light enough now to walk without headtorches: most of the stars had been swallowed by a blanket of navy blue sky and the Eastern Fells glowed like sulphur. I was just thinking that it couldn’t be too long now until sunrise when the temperature suddenly skydived. We went from sweating in base layers to shivering under layers of insulation within the space of a few minutes. “It may not be darker before dawn,” I muttered as we reached the summit of the Old Man. “But it certainly is colder, for sure.”

“There’s a remedy for that,” said Jeremy, whipping out the Jetboil. Cradling cups of spicy lemon tea, we leant against the summit cairn and watched the sun rise. After half an hour of dawdling just below the horizon it came fast: a line of fire that swelled to a fat pink grapefruit and then shrank again to a concentrated star of light too bright to look at. Everything turned pink all at once – it was like looking at the Lake District through beer goggles. She’s a beautiful beast at any time of day, but add the rose-tinted spectacles of sunrise and she’ll steal your heart before you can finish your cuppa.

5.23am. Dead time. There would be a price to pay for being in the hills here and now; we all knew that. In a few minutes we would stumble off the summit feeling like the living dead, but by God was it worth it. For some things, no price is too high. And I’d sell my soul twice over for a hot cup of lemon tea and half an hour of stolen sunshine. T


top outdoor advice from our hillwalking experts

trail skills

Defining a bothy

Not easy! ‘Shelter’ is really the only term that applies to all bothies. The organisation which maintains most of the UK’s bothies is the Mountain Bothies Association (MBA), and on their website their description of the shelters they maintain errs on the side of caution. “Holiday homes they are not. Camping without a tent is closer to the mark.” What this means in practice is that bothies can be anything from fairly well-appointed and very solid stone cottages – with sleeping platforms, fireplaces, candles and even sofas – to rudimentary tin huts with few or no amenities. Due to their committing locations, it’s worth presuming the latter unless you know better.

1

40 Trail DECEMbEr 2011 DECEMbEr 2011 Trail 41

How to find and spend the night in these remote mountain shelters.

Bothying

it’s difficult to imagine a more noble resource for walkers: abandoned cottages secreted in the UK’s wild places, left unlocked and gently

maintained for use as overnight shelters. As the winter months creep in, the days become shorter and camping starts to lose the more universal aspects of its appeal, the idea of using a bothy as an overnight shelter to aid you in your quest for a summit becomes more and more appealing (see page 20 for Trail’s recent bothy-assisted adventure).

But bothying, for all its practical simplicity, can be a bit of a black art when it comes to planning...

Sleep in shelter in

a place like this...for free!

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finding shelter

On the MBA website (www.mountainbothies.org.uk) you’ll

find the locations of bothies they maintain, and usually a description. The MBA maintains 10 bothies in northern England, seven in Wales and 78 in Scotland. It’s best to check here first as it’s the place where closures, repairs or changes in bothy status – as can happen – are reported.

In Scotland there are also some bothies on private estates that are maintained by the estate owners or rangers, or left unmaintained. Some are locked and private, but some are left open. Finding information on these is more difficult, but your first port of call should be the estate itself to find out what condition the building

is in and whether it is possible to use it. A bit of detective work can help: spotting a building symbol (a box) on an OS map – usually near a water source and a path or track, and often with a name – followed by a bit of time on the Internet and Google Earth, might take you closer to establishing the nature of the building.

Beware: if you take a punt on a bothy you’re unsure about, be fully prepared to wild camp.

Packing for a bothy

With the above in mind – and given the fact that the bothy you’re aiming for could already be full of similarly minded people – you need to pack a tent or bivvy for a bothy trip, just in case.

This aside, in addition to your normal walking kit, you’ll need: › sleeping mat› sleeping bag› dry clothes for the evening› stove for cooking› toilet paper› matches or a lighter› headtorch› hat and extra insulation layer

Optional extras to augment your bothy experience could include the following:› tealights› firelog if the bothy has a fireplace (available at most DIY stores)› washing line for drying kit› book, game or entertainment› hipflask with some warming ‘refreshment’ › a smile: you may be sharing, so be prepared to socialise!

2 Finding a bothy

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Camasunary bothy nestles below the Bla Bheinn

massif on Skye.

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52 TRAIL DECEMBER 2011

MASTERCLASSTOP OUTDOOR ADVICE FROM OUR HILLWALKING EXPERTS

TRAIL SKILLS

Snowdon danger spots


Come winter, Wales’ highest mountain turns into a hazardous wasteland – and some of the most dangerous spots lie in the most unexpected places. Here we highlight the principal areas where extra concentration is required…

Crib Goch 1SH627552 The fi rst major rock step on Crib Goch. A surprising number of folk who arrive at this point think they are heading for Snowdon – which they are eventually, if they are fortunate and prepared; but if they are unprepared for the exposure of Crib Goch, they could be climbing themselves into a trap they may fi nd it very diffi cult to retreat from.

Crib Goch 2SH617551 This is where Crib Goch rears up again with an imposing rock tower that defl ects folk to the left (south). Several small footpaths also develop in this area, which cross some steep and unpleasant ground.

Crib Goch 4 SH615552 In poor weather some people pick up the top of the Clogwyn y Person arête. They mistakenly think this is the main ridge and continue descending until they either realise what they are doing, or it becomes too late.

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Beautiful but potentially deadly: Wales’ highest under snow.

skills snowdon dec11 swpssi.indd 52 10/10/2011 10:51

With thanks to the Llanberis Mountain Rescue Team; www.llanberismountainrescue.co.uk

masterclass


Watkin PathSH609542 At the top of the Watkin Path there are several paths. Due to the nature of the terrain they are often confusing as they appear and disappear. This area is very loose, and the ground is sloppy, slaty and quite steep – so a mistake can be costly.

South-east ridgeSH610543 near the summit, to SH614541 near Bwlch Saethau. People often try to descend this as they can’t find the start of the Watkin Path. It is possible either in descent or ascent – but the ground is loose and dangerous with a big drop to the north.

Llanberis PathSH609557 This is the railway cutting off the Llanberis descent, which can fill with snow and then freeze. This route is often seen as an easy-to-follow descent in poor conditions in winter – but where it passes above a convex slope, it is very dangerous. There have been fatalities here. A safer option if you find yourself here may be to detour and descend via the Snowdon Ranger path (seen heading west off the bottom left of this square), rather than trying to re-find the Llanberis Path.

Crib Goch 3SH614552 Here is another area that tends to deflect folk away from the ridge and to the south – very loose, rocky and unpleasant.

skills snowdon dec11 swpssi.indd 53 10/10/2011 10:51

GEAR

CRAMPONS: THE FUTURE?

Christmas gift alert! Landing with a heavy ‘thunk’ in the offi ce, this block of useful history immediately asserts itself as Something You Really Want. All seven Wainwright

guides and the additional ‘Outlying Fells’ volume, originally and lovingly penned by Lake District afi cionado Alfred Wainwright in the Sixties and Seventies, have been fully revised

by former OS cartographer Chris Jesty and now strike a pleasing balance between the covetable and the contemporary. Aside from a more useful red dotted line distinguishing

paths, their iconic line drawings appear otherwise unchanged, and – while useful elements like grid references and units in

metres instead of feet would make the books even more seamless with modern

mapping – this is a wonderful package. Plus if the new photographic dust jackets

don’t appeal, you can remove them for instant vintage class.

www.franceslincoln.co.uk

WAINWRIGHT Box Set £110

64 TRAIL DECEMBER 2011

Product of the month

NEWSGe

ar

New to the UK this winter is the Hillsound Trail Crampon (£50). Trail’s had a pair for a year now, on the feet of our lightweight expert Peter Macfarlane. “A new wave of winter traction has emerged lately: lightweight aluminium crampons, traditional styles with fewer and shorter spikes and more fl exible pull-on styles,“ he says. “The Hillsounds bridge the gap between the fully fl exible pull-on styles and solid crampons. An elastomer ring grips your footwear while underfoot, attached by chains, are plates that resemble a mini regular crampon. The front plate is hinged to allow movement in almost any footwear but the multiple spikes bite into the ice without fl ex.“ So what’s the verdict? “In use, the crampons were grippy, especially in harder snow and ice. The short spikes also meant they can be worn to cross grass and rock without feeling like you’re wearing heels or worrying about your £100+ crampons getting worn out.“ So how much punishment can they take? Watch out for a full test in Trail this winter...

www.hillsound.com

PETER MA

CFA

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gear news dec11 swps.indd 64 10/10/2011 15:12

All you have to do to be in with a chance of winning one of these fab prizes is go to www.greatcompetitions.co.uk/trail

BIZARRE BUT BRILLIANT?

The hill-going person – absolute gentleman or otherwise – can, given time and exposure to the elements, develop a face like an old boot. It would make sense to take precautions, which is where Mrs White’s lotion comes in. Boasting a charming name, simple label and hefty price tag, and described as a weatherblock to guard against what the y splendidly term ‘facial corrosion’, it’s full of natural ‘Edwardian cures’ like beeswax, rose, sandalwood, lavender, butter and zinc, which treat the skin and give

it SPF 28 protection, while organic cider vinegar helps maintain the skin’s pH. So does it work? Early impressions are a tentative ‘yes’ – though the unique smell (sort of half honey, half burning nylon) takes some getting used to. ›› www.roullierwhite.com

After a chequered past, with the Nomad 7 you get the sense solar chargers are coming of age. Both power pack and direct solar charger, it offers a charging interface for USB, 12V and a supplied pack of AA rechargeable batteries. It takes 6 hours to fully charge it ready to use with USB, or just 2 hours using the sun – impressive fi gures. It’s not mega-light (360g) but it’s worthwhile if you’re heading into the hills with your iPod/phone/Kindle/headtorch and need some extra juice. ›› www.goalzero.com

Mrs White’s Absolute Gentleman Protective Barrier Cream £20

GoalZero Nomad 7 £130

NEWS

GADGET OF THE MONTH

Two pairs of Brasher Kenai/Kiso GTX boots worth £100 each Tested on page 88

One pair of Scarpa SL Activ boots worth £220 Tested on page 76

Memory-Map Adventurer 3500 GPS worth £380Tested in the October issue

GEAR PRIZES WORTH £800!

Win

Boot cleaningThis month’s gear tests (starting on page70) include all you need for buying your perfect pair of boots; but after spending so much time and money on getting the right pair for you, it’s a waste to not spend a little bit of time and effort keeping them in good condition. Here are a few tips to help them stay in shape for longer...

›› www.grangers.co.uk

LacesRemove the laces to help get into the nooks and crannies.

BrushGet the stubborn dirt off fi rst. You mustn’t leave boots encrusted with dirt for long periods. We recommend walking through long wet grass at the end of a walk to brush the worst off before it dries. Otherwise, brush the worst off.

RinseRinse the boots in clean water. Avoid dunking them in a bucket: this won’t do leather any good.

SoapUse a boot cleaner, such as Granger’s G-Max Footwear Cleaner, on the wet boot. As you rub it in, it will foam up and lift dirt away from the surface.

RinseClean off the suds with running water.

DryNatural drying is best. Never dry boots on a radiator or near a fi re as this can damage the leather.

ConditionFull-grain leather boots need some conditioning. Applying Granger’s G-Max Leather Conditioner will keep the leather supple and waterproof.

Clean insideEvery so often it’s a good idea to clean out the inside of your boots. Salty sweat deposits can block the inside of membranes and impede breathability.

ADVERTISING FEATURE

gear news dec11 swps.indd 65 10/10/2011 16:47

BOOTS These boots can be used with crampons on easier snowy ground, and are ideal for rock and scree. Yet they are comfortable on paths too – making them the perfect year-round choice.TEST & STUDIO PHOTOGRAPHS GRAHAM THOMPSONOUTDOOR PHOTOGRAPHS TOM BAILEY

3-4 season


GROUP TESTWHAT WE TESTED

BERGHAUS TARAZED GTX £140ZAMBERLAN BALTORO £170TREZETA TOP EVO £175ALT-BERG MALLERSTANG £180MAMMUT APPALACHIAN GTX £185SCARPA SL ACTIV £220LA SPORTIVA TRANGO S EVO GTX £225MEINDL HIMALAYA MFS £230

3-4 boots dec11 swsi.indd 70 07/10/2011 12:43


3-4 SEASON BOOTS

If you want one pair of boots to carry you from warm rock to

snowy slopes, check out this test...

3-4 boots dec11 swsi.indd 71 07/10/2011 12:42

3-SEASON BOOTSWith the cost of outdoor gear set to increase further in 2012, we consider just how far £100 of your hard-earned cash can go on boots suitable for the mountains.WORDS PHOEBE SMITH PHOTOGRAPHS TOM BAILEY

£100

REGATTA ALPHA PRO VXT £95 CONTOUR NEW NAVIGATOR £100JACK WOLFSKIN CROSSHIKE MID TEXAPORE £100 BERGHAUS EXPLORER LIGHT GTX £100BRASHER KENAI GTX £100HI-TEC ALTITUDE ULTRA LUXE WPI £100LOMER GARDENA MTX £100TREZETA JULIETTE £100

WHAT WE TESTED


GROUP TEST

3-season boots dec11 swpssi.indd 82 07/10/2011 15:08


£100 3-season boots

A pair of 3-season boots will be great for all your mountain

adventures below the snowline.

3-season boots dec11 swpssi.indd 83 07/10/2011 15:08

RoutesTrail Routes use OS mapping and gradient profiles, and are written by walking experts. This month we feature six trips designed to make the most of the available winter daylight – and don't forget to look out for the handy ‘cut out the faff’ tips to help make these walks short and sweet! Download these routes and GPS waypoints at lfto.com/routes

1 StridingArcheS 15km p105 2 grASmoor 12.5km p107 3 moelSiAbod 8.8km p109 4 merrivAleStonerowS 13km p111 5 greAtrigg 14.5km p113 6 winhill 14km p115

ultimate weekend – aviemore 7 meAllA'bhuAchAille 16km p120 8 cAirngorm 9.6km p121 9 brAeriAch 20.5km p122

ultimate weekend – dolgellau 10 cAdAiridriS 24km p126 11 rhinogFAch&Yllethr 11.8km p127 12 gwernAnlAke 5.8km p128

classic route 13 mArdAleround 11.6km p131

P119

P127 P131

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routes cover dec11 sw.indd 103 10/10/2011 13:19

trail magazine - december 2011

Documents

p32p308 trail

hillwalking boots

season boots

trail tall tale

aches new look

remote sheltersask trail

new tent thats light

new polartec fabric