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P

Stugun

Pink Church

Stugun

P

DirectionStugun

DirectionMårdsjön

Stora Berget

Bräsväggen Lilla Berget

Film 2väggen Väggen i

skogen

Gömdaväggen

Glömdaväggen

Bouldercrag

1416

Musväggen

Copyright coronn AB, Sweden

Bouldercrag

Sightseeing spot

Road 87

E14directionSuindsvall

E14directionÅre

Stugun

Road

70

Östersund

In the middle of Sweden, 600 km north of Stockholm,you will find Östersund, a city near the mountains.

To find Stuguberget: From Östersund, drive in thedirection of Sollefteå, on road no. 87. After 50 kmyou will reach Stugun, a small village just by theriver Indalsälven.

When you have passed the bridge, turn left. After100 metres you will reach a T-junction, turn left again.Continue about 1 km. At the outskirts of the village,turn right to reach the last group of houses locatednear the big crag on your right. You will see a signpost,“Stuguberget”.

Park at a car park by a kindergarden where you willsee a track that leads into the wood.

Walk about 500 metres on that track and you willreach an open place where the climbing club hasbuilt a small cottage and arranged the ground so thatclimbers could camp.

Take the track to the right in the T-junction to reachthe “Lilla Berget” or one of the other smaller cragsin the wood. Take the left track to reach the “StoraBerget” and the boulder crag. The boulder crag is abig stone that has been digged, chipped and gluedby two entusiatic members of the club.

By the cottage, the “Stora Berget” and the “Vitaväggen” you will find fire-places and during summerthe club have arranged with water just by the cottage.

For rainy days, take the car back to Östersund. Visitthe museum where they present the history aboutthe Laplanders. Take a beer at a bar or visit theChurch at Frösön with a nice view over the mountains.

The area is family friendly.

Approach “Stora Berget”:

When you reach the club cottage, take the left trackand head for the crag. About half way you will finda track that turns left down to the big boulder crag inthe wood. Continue straight forward and you willpass a small boulder crag.

Approach “Musväggen”:

Pass the cottage on the left side, continue on thetrack that leads up in the wood between the“Musväggen” and the “Stora Berget”.

Approach “Bräsväggen”:

Pass the cottage on the right side. A step track leadyou up to “Lilla Berget”. Turn left and follow the cragfor about 50 metres and you will find this part of thecrag.

Approach “Lilla Berget” and “Vita väggen”:

Pass the cottage on the right track. A step track willlead you straight up to the “Lilla Berget”. In a T-junction, turn right to reach “Vita Väggen”.

Approach “Film 2 väggen”:

From “Vita Väggen” and the fire-place, walk to theright and follow a small track. In the T-junction, taketo the right to walk down to “Film 2 väggen”. Takeleft to reach the small crag above “Film 2 väggen”.

Approach “Glömda väggen”:

From “Vita Väggen” and the fire-place, walk to theright and follow a small track. In the T-junction, holdleft, pass the small crag above “Film 2 väggen” andcontinue into the wood. Sometimes you will find ithard to find the track but the area is small and you

CLICK ON THE HEADLINE TO RETURN will find this crag. CLICK ON THE HEADLINE TO RETURN

Approach “Väggen i skogen”:

Follow the approach description to reach “Film 2väggen”. Pass this crag and continue on the trackuntil you reach a open space where you will see thevillage Stugun, the bridge an the river. Abseil fromthe pine-tree to reach route number 3 to 7 (a 50metres rope will do). To reach route number 1 and2, walk down on the right side of the crag or walkdown in the wood direct from “Film 2 väggen”. If youhave a GPS the possition is given on the TOPOS.

Approach “Gömda väggen”:

Walk down from the club cottage in the direction ofthe car park. Where the track turns sharp to the righta small track leads to the left. Follow that and afterabout 150 metres you reach an area with houses.When you reach the road, turn left, continue and turnstraight to the left between house number 14 and 16,just by an electric cupboard. Continue approximately300 metres in the wood (no track) and head slightlyto the right to reach this sand stone crag. If you havea GPS the possition is given on the TOPOS.

Routes that neads gear have there names writenin Italic style.

1 3

5

4

6

7 8 9,10

9

11

12

13

14,1516

1819

21,23

20

22

24

25

27 29 30 31

33

34

35

36

32,33,34,35,36,37

32

37

38,39

40,41

42

43 4847464544

Stugun,Stora Berget

South85 m

14a

26

1. Sorry 6+2. ? ?3. Slem-Olas Rute 5-4. Åtåten 6+5. Dansk fylletant 66. Mr Beam 5+7. Milda makter 6-8. No name 6+

9. Myrsten 4+10. Vänsterextremisten 4+11. Direkta Myrsten 5+12. Ellens led 6-13. Smurfleden 6+14. Mette mera 5+14a. Mette ännu mera 6+15. Öneväggen 6-16. La Det Skutte 617. Isabelle 618. ? ?19. Onda ögat 620. Ho Chi Minh leden 5+21. Jochen 522. Moster Olgas utmaning 5+

23. Spinning Wheel 5+24. Arreten 625. Direkt Spinning Wheel 6-26. Önevägen 5-27. Oktobergalaxen 6+28. Kruppskaja 629. Ett steg i taget 630. Ljunglöfs 6-31. Tre i Ett 5-32. Två steg i taget 6-33. Demokrati och valfrihet 5

34. Märta Brodén 435. Röde Orm 436. Svarta Tupp 5+37. Eigils Nordvägg 5+38. Bjällerklang 439. Vått och Torrt 640. Lurige Laban 641. Cirka Nitti 5+42. Harige Harry 643. Raka Ruben 4-44. Krångliga Krulle 6-45. Ville direkt 6-46. Velige Ville 5-47. Smultronstället 448. Släktleden 5

Approach


2

17

Routes in Italic style neads gear.

28

Stugun,Musväggen

South13 m

Approach


431,2

8765

109

1. Gröna mattan 32. Balla Bullar 33. Fontainbleau 5+4. Fina Stina 45.6. Musgruppen 4-57.8. Mossiga musen 4+9. Skogskalle 410. Mulliga Maj 5+11. Startsvårigheter 612. Kort spricka 4


11

12

Stugun,Bräsväggen

South25 m

Approach


1

2 74

314

10,11

8

13

1. Peanuts 5+ 11. Hävstäcket 6+2. ? ? 12. Bräsvecket 6-3. Tutande Tiljor 6- 13. Örnnästet 8-4. Autostrada 7- 14. 7.20 7-5. Byvägen 7 15. 6.40 66. Estrella 8- 16. ? ?7. ? ?8, Naturell 89. ? ?10. ? ?

6

12

15

16

5

9

Stugun,Lilla Berget and Vita Väggen

South15-45 m

1 2 3

5

4

Approach


1

Stugun,1. Lilla Berget

South15-45 m

SeeBräsväggen

74,5,6

32

8

9,10 11 12,13

1. Bagar Berta 72. Svarta Katten 4+3. Lummigt läskpapper 5-4. Georgs grind 5+5. Gummicksnodden 6+6. Huva Huva 57. Neverest 7+8. Hornbein 6+9. Everest 7-10. Huva 511. Bjox 6-12. Hickande Giraffen 4-13. Lingon för blåbär 5


Cop

yrig

ht c

oron

n A

B, S

wed

en

Approach


South15-45 m

See route no. 111. Lilla Berget

1 4327,865

9

7,7

11

1213

14

1. Hörnet på hörnet 5-2. Kajmani 6+3. Stånkande Örnen 4+4. Luftiga Lisa 55. ? ?6. ? ?7. Hängande hunden 58. Byrackan 6-9. Hängande hunden var. 510. Cecilias insteg 5+11. Direkta diagonalen 5+12. Syster yster 7-13. Jubileumsleden 7+14. Irén Desperation 815. Paradontos 8-16. Matrix 8+17. Diagonalen 4+ Traverse, Boulder 5


15

17

10

Cop

yrig

ht c

oron

n A

B, S

wed

en

Approach

16



1

32

4

5

5

6

108

9 12

11

1413

15

14

1817

19

2120

24,25,26

13. Lottaleden 7+14. Varanen 7-15. Varianen 6

1. Olmo 6- 16. Varianten ?2. Sailors delight 6 17. Populärleden 6+3. Klämmiga leden 6 18. Kajmaanen 54. Två och nittio 7 19. Sämpiga Sune 4+5. Enok nittio 6+ 20. Viva España 8+6. ? 8 21. Liten och torr 77. Skuckuskräcken 7+ 22. Intenet 8+8. Direkta krokodilen 5+ 23. Pojken 7+9. Ullmekotten 7- 24. ? ?10. Bättre grepp 6 25. Roliga Rune11. Runda rabatter 8 Traverse (4+)12. Höstsonaten 8+ 24. Stor och blaut 6-

7See5. Lilla Berget


South15-45 m

You will reach routes no.4,9,12,15 and 19 by a longtraverse, start at the start ofroute 22 and 23, traverse tothe left. Name of the route:Krälande krokodilen (4+).

The boulder traverse starts atTOPOS number 2 and finishat TOPOS 4, this part isgraded 6-.

Cop

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n A

B, S

wed

en

Approach


16

22 23


South15 m


1

2,34

98

7

65

1. Ståre Sture 7 8. Sopa Zeke 5-2. Studsande granen 5 9. Gäddede Ede 5+3. Hoppande tallen 6- 10. Lederlappen 4+4. Jurassic cliffhanger 6- 11. Utan vidare 5+5. Åteln 56. Alfons tak 5+ Traverse, boulder 5+7. Variant Alfons tak 5+


Approach


1110

Stugun,5. Lilla Berget, Vita väggen

South15 m

1

4,5

3

2

10,118,9 13

15

14

171618,19

12

1. Mental Kalops 5- 9. Glasstuten 5- 17. Talgoxen 6-2. Varglaven 5 10. Rätt över 5+ 18. Varför 4-3. Hjorten 5 11. Flyttsträcket 6- 19. Sopa Zeke 5-4. Svanen 3 12. Klädstrecket 6+5. Albatrossen 5- 13. Brant och tunn 6 Routes in Italic style neads gear.6. ? ? 14. Skarven 77. Lige 5+ 15. Broilern 68. Dammiga strutsen 5- 16. Pippin 6+

6,7

Approach


Approach


Stugun,Film 2 Väggen

South8 m

1

3

4,5

6,7

5

1. ? 7-2. ? 7-3. Enoks övertag 64. Orkabarko 8-5. ? ?6. ? ?7. ? ?8. Teachers special 5-

2

8

Above “Film 2 väggen” you will find a small crag with one boulted route,graded 7-.

Approach


Stugun,Väggen i skogen

South15 m

GPSN 63 10.321’EO 15 35.001’

1,2

34 5 6

7

1. Aqua Minerale 7+2. Guiness 6+3. Svälj huvet 64. Redundans 7-5. ? ?6. ? ?7. Sprickan 7

Route in Italic style neads gear.

To the right, on the backside of this crag, you will findmore routes.

8. Överhäng 8-9. ? ?10. Great lake flake 611. ? ?12. Hejsan Hoppsan 7- 8

12

11

10

9

Stugun,Glömda Väggen

South20 m

Approach


13

2

1. Jägermeister 6+2. ? 6-3. ? ?4. Bröllopsdagen (no TOPOS) 6

Route 4

Approach


Stugun,1. Gömda Väggen

South15 m Take me to the left part

GPSN 63 10.390’EO 15 35.254’

1. Måndagsbörsen 5+ 8. Direkta Lill-Babs 6+2. Hylands Hörna 6 9. Hasse Tellemar 6-3. Ledmotivet 5+ 10. Ring så spelar vi 6-4. Vi Föräldrar 6- 11. El Camino 45. Levande livet 66. Alice Babs 67. Lill-Babs 5+

Routes in Italic style neads gear

1

109

87654

3

2

11

Approach


Stugun,2. Gömda Väggen

South6-15 m Take me to the right part

GPSN 63 10.390’EO 15 35.254’

1

4,53

2

6

To the main crag.

1. Diggelo Diggelej 5+2. Vandrande liljor 43. Sega Limpan 5+4. Bill och Bull 45. Knoll och Tott 46. Premiaärleden 4+

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