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Lemon Pots de CrèmeServes eight.

A base of pure cream gives these baked custards a decadent texture.

Finely grated zest of 4 lemons, plus 3⁄4 cup fresh lemon juice

3⁄4 cup granulated sugar31⁄2 cups heavy cream1⁄2 vanilla bean, seeds scraped and pod

reserved (or 2 tsp. pure vanilla extract)10 large egg yolksCandied lemon zest or candied flowers,

for garnish (optional)

Put a large pot of water on to boil for the water bath. Position a rack in the middle of the oven and heat the oven to 325°F. Put eight 6-oz. ramekins in a large roasting pan or baking dish with high sides.

Make the lemon syrup and heat the cream: In a small saucepan, combine the lemon zest, juice, and 1⁄4 cup of the sugar. Simmer until reduced to 1⁄2 cup, about 15 minutes; set aside. In a medium saucepan, combine the cream, 1⁄4 cup of the sugar, and the vanilla seeds and pod (if you’re using vanilla extract, don’t add it yet) and bring to just below boiling. Remove from the heat.

Make the lemon cream: In a medium bowl, beat the egg yolks with the remaining 1⁄4 cup sugar until smooth. Gently whisk a ladleful of the hot cream into the yolks and then whisk the yolk mixture into the saucepan with the rest of the cream. Cook slowly, stirring con-stantly, until the mixture reaches 170°F on

an instant-read thermometer, 3 to 4 minutes. Stir in the reserved syrup and strain immedi-ately through cheesecloth or a fine sieve. If you’re using vanilla extract, stir it in now.

Bake the custards: Divide the mixture among the ramekins in the roasting pan. Pull out the oven shelf, put the roasting pan on it (be sure it’s stable), and pour enough boiling water into the pan so that it comes halfway up the sides of the ramekins. Cover the ramekins with a sheet of foil (simply lay the sheet on top, don’t crimp the edges) and bake for 25 to 45 minutes—start checking

early—until the custards are set about 1⁄4 inch in from the sides, the centers respond with a firm jiggle (not a wavelike motion) when you nudge the ramekins, and the cen-ters of the custards register 150° to 155°F on an instant-read thermometer (the hole left by the thermometer will close up as the cus-tards firm). Let the custards cool to room temperature in their water bath. Remove the custards from the bath, cover them with plastic, and refrigerate for at least 8 hours and up to 2 days before serving. Garnish with candied lemon zest or flowers, if you like.

—Martin Courtman, Fine Cooking #56

Top Ten Lemon Desserts The bracing tartness of lemons is

the cure for spring fever, satisfy-ing a craving for bright flavors before true spring produce

appears. Our collection of favorite lemon desserts from past issues of Fine Cooking includes cakes, pud-dings, sorbet, and souffle. Any one of them will brighten up your day.

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Lemon Bars Yields sixteen 11⁄2-inch bars.

Lining the baking pan with parchment makes it easier to remove the bars once they’re baked. If you don’t have parchment, refer to the online version of this recipe at FineCooking.com, for instructions on substituting waxed paper.

FOR THE CRuST:4 oz. (8 Tbs.) unsalted butter, at room

temperature2 Tbs. granulated sugar1 Tbs. confectioners’ sugar1⁄2 tsp. pure vanilla extract21⁄4 oz. (1⁄2 cup) all-purpose flour21⁄2 oz. (2⁄3 cup) cake flour1⁄4 tsp. baking powder1⁄4 tsp. salt

FOR THE FILLInG:1 cup fresh lemon juice (from 4 to 6 lemons)2 oz. (4 Tbs.) unsalted butter, cut into

2 pieces2 Tbs. heavy cream1 cup granulated sugar4 large eggs2 large egg yolks1⁄4 tsp. salt1⁄4 tsp. pure vanilla extract

Make the crust: In a large bowl, cream the butter and both sugars with a hand- held mixer on medium speed (or mix by hand with a wooden spoon) until light and fluffy, about 5 minutes. Beat in the vanilla until thoroughly combined, scraping down the sides of the bowl.

In a medium bowl, sift together both flours, the baking powder, and the salt. With the mixer on low speed, slowly blend the dry ingredients into the wet ingredients, scraping down the sides, until the flour is completely blended and the dough is homogenous.

Bottom photo: Ellen Silverman

Lemon-Rosemary SorbetYields 31⁄2 cups.

Both tangy and herbal, this sorbet is a refreshing treat on warm summer evenings.

11⁄2 cups granulated sugar11⁄2 cups water1⁄2 cup finely chopped fresh rosemary11⁄3 cups fresh lemon juice3 Tbs. vodka

In a saucepan, combine the sugar and water over high heat. Stir occasionally until the sugar is completely dissolved and the syrup is simmering, about 5 minutes. Remove from the heat. You should have about 2 cups syrup.

Combine the warm syrup with the rose-mary, lemon juice, and vodka. Stir well to combine, and then let the mixture cool to room temperature. For faster freezing, trans-fer the cooled mixture to the refrigerator to chill there first.

Strain the mixture and then freeze it in an ice-cream maker, following the manufacturer’s instructions.

—Daniel Deville, Fine Cooking #16

Scrape the dough from the bowl onto a sheet of plastic. Wrap well and press down to form a 1⁄2-inch-thick square. Refrigerate the dough until it’s firm but still pliable, about 20 minutes. Heat the oven to 350°F. Have ready two sheets of parchment paper, each at least 11x11 inches.

When the dough is firm, unwrap it and put it between the sheets of parchment. Roll the dough to an approximate

square, slightly larger than 8x8 inches and about 1⁄4 inch thick. Remove the top sheet of parchment, trim the dough with a dull knife to an 8x8-inch square, and set the dough, parchment side down, in an 8x8-inch baking pan. Press the dough into the bottom of the pan, letting the excess parchment come up the sides (trim it to about 1 inch above the rim). The dough should be an even thickness all around, but it needn’t be perfectly smooth. Bake until the shortbread is light golden on top, 25 to 30 minutes; in a glass pan, look for a golden brown color on the bottom. Remove the pan from the oven, but keep the heat set to 350°F as you make the filling.

Make the filling: In a medium saucepan, heat the lemon juice, butter, and cream to just under a boil; the butter should be melted. Remove from the heat.

In a medium bowl, whisk by hand the sugar, eggs, and yolks until combined. Whisk in a bit of the hot liquid and then gradually whisk in a bit more until it’s all added. This technique, called tempering, heats the eggs slowly and gently so they don’t curdle.

Pour the mixture back into the saucepan and heat on medium, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon, scraping the bottom and sides of the pan to keep the eggs from scrambling. Cook until the mixture coats the spoon thickly enough to leave a line when you draw your finger through, 5 to 8 minutes. Remove from the heat and strain through a fine sieve. Stir in the salt and vanilla.

To finish: Pour the filling over the baked crust and smooth it evenly with a spatula, if needed. Bake until the filling has set and jiggles like firm jello, 15 to 20 minutes. Let cool to room temperature. Gently tug on the parchment on all sides to loosen the bars from the pan. Lift them out and onto a cutting board and refrigerate until the filling has com-pletely set, at least 4 hours. Trim the sides for a cleaner look and cut into 16 squares.

—Joanne Chang, Fine Cooking #49

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Lemon-Caramel Icebox CakeServes twelve.

The caramel and the lemon curd can be made ahead and refrigerated for up to 5 days. The caramel needs to be warmed to a pourable consistency before using.

FOR THE LEMOn CuRD:4 large eggs 4 large egg yolks (reserve the whites from

2 of the eggs for the meringue topping)3 Tbs. finely grated lemon zest (from about

3 lemons)1⁄2 cup granulated sugar2⁄3 cup fresh lemon juice5 oz. (10 Tbs.) unsalted butter, cut in pieces

FOR THE CARAMEL:3⁄4 cup granulated sugar2 Tbs. light corn syrup1⁄4 cup water1⁄4 cup plus 2 Tbs. heavy cream1⁄4 tsp. pure vanilla extract

FOR ASSEMBLY:5 oz. (about 11⁄2 cups) graham cracker

crumbs (from about 10 crackers), lightly toasted in a 350°F oven until they just take on some color, about 7 minutes

2 oz. (4 Tbs.) unsalted butter, melted11⁄2 cups heavy cream2 egg whites5 Tbs. granulated sugar; more for the pan

Make the lemon curd: Bring a medium pot filled half way with water to a simmer. In a medium stainless-steel bowl that fits over the pot without touching the water, whisk the eggs, yolks, zest, sugar, and lemon juice. Put the bowl over the simmering water and whisk until the mixture thickens and becomes smooth and custard-like, about 10 minutes; remove from the heat. Whisk in the butter a piece at a time. Strain the curd through a fine sieve into a bowl. Put plastic wrap directly on its surface and refrigerate.

Make the caramel: In a medium, heavy-based saucepan, combine the sugar, corn syrup, and water; stir until the sugar dissolves. Cook over high heat until the mixture turns dark amber. Don’t stir the caramel while it cooks; instead, swirl the pan gently to get an

Silky Lemon PuddingYields about 31⁄3 cups; serves four.

Taste the pudding while it’s still hot. If it’s too tart for you, whisk in a tablespoon or so of granulated sugar, but remember that chilling mutes flavors.

21⁄4 cups whole milk1⁄2 cup packed light brown sugar 1⁄2 cup granulated sugar1⁄4 cup cornstarch4 large egg yolks

even color. Remove from the heat and whisk in the cream (be careful: it will splatter). Return the mixture to the heat, whisk until smooth, and then whisk in the vanilla. Let cool to room temperature.

Assemble the cake: Spray a 9-inch springform pan with nonstick cooking spray or grease it lightly. Dust the pan with sugar and knock out any excess. Combine the toasted graham cracker crumbs and butter, rubbing them together with your fingertips to combine thoroughly. Sprinkle half the crumbs over the bottom of the pan and pat down; reserve the rest.

In a large bowl, whisk the cream to firm peaks. Fold in the cooled lemon curd. Spoon half the lemon cream over the cracker crust and spread it evenly to the edges of the pan. Sprinkle the remaining crumbs over the lemon cream. Spread the remaining lemon cream over the crumbs. Pour a little more than half the caramel over the lemon cream, reserving the rest in the refrigerator. Put the cake in the freezer while you make the meringue topping.

Whisk the egg whites and sugar in a double boiler over medium-high heat (as you did with the lemon curd) and cook until the mixture is warm and the sugar is dissolved, about 2 minutes. With an electric mixer, beat the whites to stiff peaks. Spread the meringue on the top of the cake. Freeze the cake, un-wrapped, overnight. (For longer storage, wrap it in plastic once the meringue has firmed up; unwrap before defrosting.)

About an hour before serving, transfer the cake to the refrigerator. Just before serving, reheat the remaining caramel sauce if you want to drizzle some on the plate. Brown the meringue by running it under a hot broiler, rotating the cake if necessary, until evenly browned (or brown it with a propane torch). Run a thin knife around the sides of the cake and remove the springform. Cut the cake into slices with a warm knife. If the cake seems very frozen, let the slices soften somewhat before serving. Serve with a drizzle of warm caramel sauce.

—Heather Ho, Fine Cooking #33

2 Tbs. lightly packed finely grated lemon zestPinch table salt1⁄2 cup fresh lemon juice3 Tbs. unsalted butter, at room temperatureWhipped cream and candied violets for

garnish (optional)

In a medium saucepan off the heat, whisk the milk, both sugars, and cornstarch until smooth. Whisk in the egg yolks, lemon zest, and salt. Set over medium heat and cook, whisking frequently at first and constantly toward the end, until thickened and the whisk leaves a very defined trail in the pudding, 9 to 12 minutes.

Remove the pan from the heat, add the lemon juice and butter, and stir until incorpo-rated. Pour through a coarse sieve into a large serving bowl or four individual serving dishes. Let cool to room temperature. Refrigerate, loosely covered, until set and thoroughly chilled, at least 2 hours or up to 2 days. Serve chilled with whipped cream and candied violets, if you like.

—Lori Longbotham, Fine Cooking #63

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Triple-Lemon Layer CakeServes eight to ten.

This light and tender cake flavored with lemon, layered with tangy lemon curd, and coated with a silky lemony butter frosting will make any birthday happy. But why wait until then?

FOR THE CAkE:91⁄4 oz. (21⁄3 cups) cake flour; more for the

pans23⁄4 Tbs. baking powder1⁄4 tsp. table salt13⁄4 cups granulated sugar 2 Tbs. lightly packed finely grated lemon

zest 6 oz. (3⁄4 cup) unsalted butter, completely

softened at room temperature; more for the pans

1 cup whole milk, at room temperature5 large egg whites, at room temperature1⁄4 tsp. cream of tartar

FOR THE FILLInG, FROSTInG, AnD GARnISH11⁄4 cups chilled lemon curd (preferably

homemade)8 oz. (1 cup) unsalted butter, completely

softened at room temperature2 Tbs. lightly packed finely grated lemon

zest31⁄2 cups sifted confectioners’ sugar3 Tbs. fresh lemon juice2 lemons, zested with a channel zester

(optional)Silver dragées (optional)

Make the cake: Position a rack in the middle of the oven; heat the oven to 350°F. Generously butter and flour two 8x2-inch round cake pans. Sift the cake flour, baking powder, and salt into a medium bowl. Pulse 1⁄4 cup of the sugar with the zest in a food processor until well combined.

In a large bowl, beat the butter and lemon sugar with an electric mixer on medium speed until light and fluffy (about 11⁄2 minutes). Add the remaining 11⁄2 cups sugar and beat until

smooth (about 11⁄2 minutes). Beat in a quarter of the milk just until blended. On low speed, add the flour mixture alternately with the milk in three batches, scraping the bowl with a rubber spatula; beat just until blended.

In another large bowl, beat the egg whites with an electric mixer (with clean beaters or the whip attachment) on medium speed just until foamy. Add the cream of tartar, increase the speed to medium high, and beat just until the whites form stiff peaks when the beaters are lifted. Add a quarter of the whites to the batter and gently fold them in with a whisk or a rubber spatula; continue to gently fold in the whites, a quarter at a time, being careful not to deflate the mixture.

Divide the batter evenly between the pre-pared pans. Smooth the tops with the spatula. Bake until a pick inserted in the centers comes out clean, 35 to 40 minutes. Let cool in the pans on a rack for 10 minutes. Run a table knife around the inside of the pans and carefully invert each cake out onto the rack. Flip them right side up and let cool completely.

Fill and frost the cake: With the palm of one hand pressed on top of a cake layer, cut each in half horizontally, using a long

serrated knife. Put one of the four cake layers on a serving plate, cut side up. With an offset spatula or a table knife, spread a generous 1⁄3 cup chilled lemon curd on top of the cake layer. Lay another cake layer on top, spread it with another generous 1⁄3 cup lemon curd, and repeat with the third cake layer, using the last 1⁄3 cup lemon curd. Top with the fourth cake layer.

In a medium bowl, beat the butter and lemon zest with an electric mixer on medium speed until light and fluffy. Add the confectioners’ sugar in batches and beat until light and fluffy. Add the lemon juice and beat for 1 minute. (You can make the frosting a couple of hours ahead and keep it, covered, at cool room temperature.)

up to a few hours before serving, spread a thin layer of frosting on the cake, filling in any gaps as you go. Chill until the frosting firms a bit, about 1⁄2 hour. Spread the remaining frosting decoratively over the top and sides of the cake. Scatter with bits of lemon zest and dragées, or garnish as you like.

—Lori Longbotham, Fine Cooking #63

Lemon Buttermilk Pound CakeYields one 8x5-inch loaf.63⁄4 oz. (11⁄2 cups) all-purpose unbleached

flour1 tsp. baking powder1⁄2 tsp. table salt4 oz. (1⁄2 cup) unsalted butter, slightly soft

(70°F)1 cup granulated sugar2 large eggs, at room temperature1⁄2 cup buttermilkZest of 1 lemon, finely chopped or grated

FOR THE SYRuP:Juice of 1 lemon3 to 4 Tbs. confectioners’ sugar

Heat the oven to 325°F. Spray a loaf pan that’s about 8x5x3 inches with a nonstick coating.

Whisk the flour, baking powder, and salt until well blended. With an electric mixer (I use the paddle attachment on my stand mixer), beat the butter until it’s very pale and little tails have formed. Sprinkle in the sugar and beat well until slightly fluffy. Scrape the sides of the bowl well. Add the eggs one at a time, beating until blended before adding the next. With the mixer on low, add about one-third of the flour and mix until almost combined; then add half the buttermilk and mix until just combined. Repeat with another third of the flour, and then the last half of the

buttermilk, ending with the last third of the flour. Just before all the flour is incorporated, switch from the mixer to a stiff rubber spatula, add the lemon zest, and slowly stir to blend in the flour and zest, taking care to scrape the bowl’s bottom and sides.

Scrape the batter into the prepared pan and bake until the cake is golden brown and a toothpick comes out with just a few crumbs clinging to it when inserted in the center, 45 to 50 minutes. Let the cake cool for about 10 minutes. As it’s cooling, stir together the lemon juice and confectioners’ sugar. Care-fully invert the loaf pan, tap it to release the cake, and then brush the syrup on the cake while it’s still warm. Cool completely on a rack before serving.

—Carolyn Weil, Fine Cooking #44

Bottom photo: Martha Holmberg

� www.finecooking.com Top left photo: Ellen Silverman

Lemon SoufflésYields eight individual soufflés.

FOR THE LEMOn CuRD 6 egg yolks3⁄4 cup granulated sugar1⁄2 cup fresh lemon juice11⁄2 tsp. finely grated lemon zest1 Tbs. unsalted butter

FOR THE SOuFFLES11⁄4 cups sugar3⁄4 cup fresh lemon juice6 egg whites (about 3⁄4 cup)1⁄8 tsp. cream of tartar1⁄4 cup confectioners’ sugar; more

for the ramekins and for sprinkling

Make the lemon curd: In a small double-boiler insert or a stainless-steel bowl over simmering water, combine the egg yolks, sugar, lemon juice, and zest. Stir the mixture over the simmering water until it becomes thick and creamy—the consistency of mayon-naise—3 to 5 minutes. Remove the bowl from the double boiler, whisk in the butter and stir until incorporated.

Butter eight individual ramekins or straight-sided coffee cups; dust the buttered surface with confectioners’ sugar and gently tap out the excess. Heat the oven to 400°F and set a rack in the lower third of the oven.

Make the meringue: Combine the sugar and lemon juice in a small heavy-based stainless-steel saucepan; bring to a boil. When the syrup reaches 220°F on a candy thermometer, begin beating the egg whites and cream of tartar in a standing mixer on medium speed. Gradually increase the speed to the highest setting. When the whites form soft peaks, add the confectioners’ sugar in a slow, steady sprinkle. Beat until the whites form stiff, shiny peaks. If this happens before the sugar syrup reaches 248° F, turn off the mixer.

Remove the sugar syrup from the heat as soon as it reaches 248°F. Turn the mixer back on to the highest speed if you have turned it off. Pour the hot syrup between the bowl and

Lemon TartServes ten to twelve.

FOR THE CRuST:41⁄2 oz. (1 cup) all-purpose flour;

more for dusting1⁄4 cup confectioners’ sugar1⁄4 tsp. table salt3 oz. (6 Tbs.) cold unsalted butter,

cut into 1⁄2-inch pieces1 large egg yolk1 Tbs. water

FOR THE FILLInG:3⁄4 cup granulated sugar1 Tbs. all-purpose flour1 tsp. finely grated lemon zestPinch table salt2⁄3 cup strained fresh lemon juice

(from about 3 lemons)3 large eggs, at room temperature1⁄4 tsp. pure vanilla extract

Make the crust: Combine the flour, con-fectioners’ sugar, and salt in a food proces-sor. Process briefly to blend. Add the chilled butter pieces and pulse until the butter is no bigger than small peas (about 1⁄4 inch). Add the egg yolk and drizzle the water over the mixture. Pulse briefly until the dough forms a loose ball. Dump the dough onto a large piece of plastic wrap and shape into a flat disk about 4 inches in diameter. Wrap the dough and refrigerate until well chilled, at least 1 hour or up to two days.

Lightly dust your work surface and rolling pin with flour. If your dough has been chilling overnight or longer, let it sit at room tempera-ture for about 10 minutes. Roll the dough into a 12-inch round. Lift and turn the dough sev-eral times as you roll to prevent sticking; dust the work surface and the rolling pin with flour as needed. use a dough scraper or a spatula to loosen the rolled dough; carefully roll it up around the pin and unroll it over a 91⁄4-inch tart pan with a removable bottom. Gently fit it into the pan. using lightly floured fingertips, gently press the dough into the corners and against the sides of the tart pan. Run the rolling pin over the top of the pan to trim the

dough so that it’s level with the top of the pan. Cover and freeze until the tart shell is very firm, at least 30 minutes.

Position a rack in the middle of the oven and heat the oven to 425°F. Line the frozen crust with foil and fill it with pie weights or a mix of raw rice and dried beans. Put the crust in the oven and immediately reduce the oven temperature to 400°F. Bake until the sides are golden and the bottom no longer looks wet, 15 to 20 minutes. Remove the foil, rice, and beans. Prick the bottom of the crust lightly with a fork (but don’t pierce through it) and continue to bake until the shell is golden brown, another 5 to 8 min-utes. Set the pan on a wire rack to cool while you prepare the filling. Reduce the oven temperature to 325°F.

Make the filling and finish the tart: In a medium bowl, whisk the sugar, flour, lemon zest, and salt. Pour in the lemon juice and whisk until blended and the sugar is dis-solved. In a small bowl, lightly beat the eggs and vanilla and then add to the lemon mixture. Whisk until just blended. (Don’t overwhisk or the filling will have a foamy top when baked.)

Pour the filling into the baked crust. Return the tart to the oven and bake until the filling jiggles slightly when the pan is nudged, about 20 minutes. Let cool on a wire rack until the tart is room temperature, about 1 hour. If not serving right away, chill it for 1 hour and then wrap it in plastic; refrigerate overnight or freeze. If serving immediately, remove the outer ring and run a long metal spatula under the tart to loosen. Carefully slide the tart onto a flat serving plate.

—Abigail Johnson Dodge, Fine Cooking #54

the beaters in a slow, steady stream. Continue beating until the mixing bowl feels cool, about 10 minutes.

Assemble and bake the soufflés: using a pastry bag or a spoon, fill the rame-kins halfway with the meringue, spreading it evenly. Add about 1 Tbs. lemon curd to each ramekin and lightly swirl it into the meringue with a knife. Fill the ramekins with more meringue to just below the rim and add the remaining curd. Divide the remaining me-

ringue among the ramekins and, using a butter knife or small offset spatula, smooth the top of each soufflé. At this point, the soufflés can be refrigerated for up to 3 days or frozen for up to a week.

Set the soufflés on a baking sheet and bake until the tops are light brown, 8 to 10 minutes. Remove them carefully from the oven and sprinkle with confectioners’ sugar if you like.

—Laurann Claridge, Fine Cooking #19

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Raspberry-Lemon Mousse TrifleServes eight.

use a 9-inch nonaluminum springform ring, a quiche pan that’s about 3 inches tall, or a bottomless cake ring (also called a vacherin) to assemble the trifle. Or use large wine-glasses to make individual trifles.

FOR THE SPOnGE CAkE:Butter for the pan 21⁄2 oz. (1⁄2 cup plus 3 Tbs.) cake flour11⁄4 oz. (5 Tbs.) cornstarch1⁄2 cup granulated sugar4 large eggs, at room temperature1 egg yolk1⁄2 tsp. fresh lemon juice1⁄4 tsp. table salt2 Tbs. melted unsalted butter

FOR THE LEMOn MOuSSE:6 large egg yolks3⁄4 cup granulated sugar1⁄2 cup fresh lemon juice4 Tbs. unsalted butter2 Tbs. finely grated lemon zestGenerous pinch table salt8 oz. mascarpone cheese11⁄2 cups heavy cream, whipped to

medium-firm peaks

FOR THE SOAkInG LIquID AnD ASSEMBLY: 3⁄4 cup granulated sugar1⁄2 cup water51⁄2 cups fresh raspberries1⁄4 cup plus 1 tsp. fresh lemon juice

Bake the sponge cake: Position a rack in the middle of the oven and heat the oven to 350°F. Lightly grease a 9-inch cake pan and line the bottom with parchment. Sift the flour, cornstarch, and 2 Tbs. of the sugar into a small bowl.

Crack the eggs and yolk into the bowl of an electric mixer. Whip on medium speed, adding the lemon juice, salt, and the remain-ing 6 Tbs. sugar. Increase the speed to high and whip until the eggs are very fluffy, at least tripled in volume, and form soft peaks, 3 to 4 minutes. Remove the bowl from the mixer. Sift the flour mixture over the eggs in three additions, gently incorporating with a hand whisk each time.

Put the melted butter in a small bowl, add a dollop of the batter, and stir gently. Add this to the mixing bowl, folding gently with a spatula to incorporate. Scrape the batter into the prepared pan. Bake until dark golden and springy when touched, about 40 minutes. Cool the cake in the pan on a rack.

Make the lemon mousse: In a heavy-duty, nonreactive saucepan, combine the egg yolks, sugar, lemon juice, and butter. Cook over medium heat, whisking constantly until the butter melts. Reduce the heat to medium low and stir constantly with a wooden spoon until the mixture thickly coats the back of the spoon, about 5 minutes. Strain into a clean bowl and stir in the zest and salt. Refrigerate, covered, until completely chilled. The mixture will be very thick.

In a medium bowl, mash the mascarpone with a rubber spatula. Add a little of the chilled lemon mixture and continue mash-ing until the mixture is lump-free. Stir in the rest of the lemon mixture, and then fold in the whipped cream. (If the mousse is too stiff, add a touch of unwhipped heavy cream to loosen it.) Refrigerate until it’s time to assemble the trifle.

Mix the soaking liquid: In a small sauce-pan, combine the sugar and water. Cook over medium heat, stirring constantly, until the mixture boils and the sugar has completely dissolved. Set aside. Pass 1 cup of the ber-ries through a food mill fitted with a fine disk or force them through a fine sieve, mashing with a wooden spoon, into a medium bowl. Discard the contents of the strainer and stir the purée (you should have about 1⁄2 cup) into the sugar syrup. Add the lemon juice and set aside until it’s time to assemble the trifle.

Assemble the trifle: With a serrated knife, slice the cake into three equal round layers. (If you’re using wineglasses, cut the layers into squares the approximate size of the glasses.) Set a 9-inch-diameter springform ring or cake ring that’s about 3 inches tall onto a flat serving plate. Put one cake layer on the bottom. With a pastry brush, moisten the cake with the soaking liquid (it should be well moistened but not sodden). Spread on one-third of the mousse and then arrange one-third of the remaining 41⁄2 cups berries over the mousse. Place the second cake layer on top, moisten it with more soaking liquid, and repeat with another third of the mousse and another third of the berries. Do a third layering, ending with the remaining berries arranged on top. Refrigerate the trifle until the mousse has firmed, at least 3 hours but no longer than a day. Remove the cake form or ring just before serving and cut the trifle into slices like a cake.

—Michelle Polzine, Fine Cooking #52

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Photo: Amy Albert