Break out the champagne w

e announce the Golden Backpa

ck Award winners!

Chatting to indie rock outfi t The Cribs

Swimming with bull sharks in Fiji

ROCKING THE CRADLE

IN THE FLESH

+ NEWS & SPORT WHATS ONFILM REVIEWS TRAVELLERS TIPS

BEST OF THE BEST

WINA SWEET BUN

CH

OF TASMANIAN

TRAVEL EXPERIENCES

November 19-25 2012 Issue 708 tntdownunder.com

A HHH

A SWEET BUNCH

OOOOOF TASMANIAN

TRAVEL EEEEXXXEXPERIENCES

Explore over 12,000 kms of Western Australias coastline in just one day

Grey Nurse Shark,AQWAs shipwreck coast

Australias largest aquarium and underwater tunnel Giant sharks, stingrays and turtles Beautiful living coral reefs Interactive fun Licensed caf and exclusive gift shop

From the icy waters of the Southern Ocean to the tropical wonderland of coral reefs in the Far North, AQWA takes you on an underwater journey to discover the amazing marine life of Western Australia.

Hillarys Boat Harbour | Open Daily 10am -5pmTel: 08 9447 7500 | www.aqwa.com.au

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TNTDOWNUNDER.COM 3

FEATURES

WINNERS LIST 6We look back at the winners from this years Golden Backpack Awards

CRADLE TO CRIB 16Ryan Jarman from UK band The Cribs chats to us ahead of their Aussie tour

GREAT SOUTHERN LAND 26Tassie month rolls on with a look at the states beautiful north west

JAWESOME 34We get a little submerged when we go diving with some bull sharks in Fiji

THIS WEEK

EDITORS LETTER

Its not often you see members of the backpacking industry dressed up, in fact youre lucky if theyre wearing shoes or even pants. And yet, this week the Aussie and New Zealand industry converged on Sydney to celebrate the Golden Backpack Awards. Want to see how they scrubbed up, and how your favourite tours, hostels and websites fared? Turn to pg6 to read all about the winners and grinners.

ALEX HARMONEDITOR editor@tntdownunder.com

34

6

16

OZ DIARY 4

CHATROOM 12

FILM 14

TRAVEL 20

WIN 32

WEEKENDER 38

NEWS 40

OPINION 42

SPORT 44

LISTINGS NSW 46

LISTINGS QUEENSLAND 49

LISTINGS VICTORIA 54

LISTINGS SA 56

LISTINGS NT 57

LISTINGS WA/TAS 58/60

LISTINGS NEW ZEALAND 61

WORK 65

TRIVIAL PURSUITS 74

26

TNTDOWNUNDER.COM4

OZDIARY

MAIN EVENTGOURMET ESCAPE 2012MARGARET RIVER

One of Western Australias most extraordinary food and wine shows kicks off with this inaugural event. One of the worlds top restauranteurs and chefs, Heston Blumenthal, (pictured) will be making a special guest appearance at the show. He might be the biggest name, but theres a huge list of renowned chefs and industry icons from Oz and abroad. Its held on the beautiful grounds of Leeuwin Estate, one of the regions best wineries. Live music, as well as food and wine tastings will showcase the best Margaret River has to offer.

Nov 22-25. Margaret River, WA gourmetescape.com.au

ROLLER DERBY XTREME

TBA The best roller girls from across the

world descend on Melbourne to battle it out. This event will pitt Americas East and West coasts against one another when the LA Derby Dolls take on the New York City Gotham Girls in a fi erce and fun contest.

Nov 23 Hisense Arena, Melbourne rdxtreme.com.au

DESTROY THE JOINT

$29 A fundraiser for the promotion for

equality and the advancement of women in society and a great night out rolled into one. Sultry burlesque performers vie with wonderful musicians and a fully stocked bar to fi ght for women rights.

Nov 25 The Standard, Sydney wearethestandard.com

SPANK EIGHTIES NIGHT

$30 One of the biggest dance parties all

year. A great night for 80s enthusiasts, as well as party animals in general. Some of the biggest DJs on the circuit will be putting on their best fl uro numbers and black fi ngerless gloves and spinning the tunes.

Nov 24 Bobbie McGees, Melbourne greentix.com.au

Heston (the mentalist) urges you all to get to Margaret River

follow us on @tnt_downunder

TNT Magazine is printed on paper from sustainable forests. There is no business connection between

the proprietors of this magazine and TNT Ltd, the worldwide transportation group. Copyright here and abroad of all original materials is held by TNT Magazine. Reproduction in whole or part is forbidden, except with permission of the publishers. Registered by Australia Post.

EDITORIAL Editor Alex HarmonStaff writer Hugh RadojevContributors Andrew WestbrookInterns James Beasenvalle, Amelia Gray, Caitlin Stanway

DESIGN AND PRODUCTIONDesign and production manager Lisa Ferron

SALES Account manager Justin SteinlaufSales Executive Mike Ramsden

MARKETING & EVENTS Business development manager Tom Wheeler

DISTRIBUTION Lee Sutherland

ACCOUNTS Financial controller Trish BaileyAccountant Hannah Waters

TNT MULTIMEDIA LTDCEO Kevin Ellis Chairman Ken Hurst

PUBLISHER TNT Multimedia LimitedPRINTED BY Rural PressNEWS AAP PICTURES Getty Images | Thinkstock | AAP | TNT Images | Tourism Australia | Tourism Victoria | Tourism New South Wales | Tourism NT | Tourism Queensland | Tourism Tasmania | South Australia Tourism | Tourism Western Australia | Tourism New Zealand | Tourism Fiji | Justin Steinlauf COVER Sydney Event Photography

TNT Magazine, 126 Abercrombie Street, Chippendale, Sydney, NSW 2008 tntdownunder.comGeneral enquiries Phone 02 8332 7500 Fax 02 9690 1314Email enquiries@tntdownunder.com

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PHONE 02 8332 7511EMAIL tom@tntdownunder.comWHERE TO GET TNT

SEE tntdownunder.com/magazine-location.html for pick-up points

s#AMPERSFROMPERDAY!53 s#AMPERSFROMPERDAY.:

Campers

Most include fuel allowances. Take a look at the 100s of deals we have on our website www.standbyrelocs.com

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TNTDOWNUNDER.COM6

If you spotted a mistake or two in last weeks magazine, we apologise. We had a big (ahem, read boozy) week you see, as TNT Magazine hosted the cream of the Australian and New Zealand backpacking industry at a fancy do in Sydney (with none other than Dr Karl Kennedy providing the entertainment), as we were announcing the winners of our prestigious Golden Backpack Awards.

If youre new to the country, you might not be too sure what the Golden Backpacks are, but we can guarantee youll fi nd their results useful.

The reason for this is that theyre kind of like the Oscars for the budget travel industry (only with a couple of

Golden ticketsThe winners have been announced for TNTs annual Golden Backpack Awards, celebrating backpackings best Down UnderWORDS ALEX HARMON

MojoSurf make it a night to remember

extra goon stains on the red carpet). However, unlike the Oscars, the Golden Backpacks celebrate the best hostels, tour companies and travel agents Down Under and, most importantly, they are voted for by you, our readers.

Indeed, over a 10-week period between July and September, we received almost 80,000 votes from your good selves, so thanks to all those who took the time. We love you.

And thats what makes the results youll fi nd over the next few pages so important. These arent some mutual appreciation back-slapping industry gongs handed out by the travel industry to itself. These are Australia and New Zealands only consumer-

voted awards for the independent travel sector.

Afterall, when looking to book anything from a bed to a tour, who are you going to trust more the travel agent who will earn a commission from your booking, or your new-found buddy whos just got back from where youre heading? Word of mouth is king, which is why we decided to set up these annual awards a few years back, to give you a helping hand. Arent we nice?

So read on and check out the names on the following few pages, as these are the companies deemed the best of the best at what they do, as chosen by you.

TNTDOWNUNDER.COM 7

TAS: BEST HOSTEL

WINNER: The Pickled Frog, HobartFINALISTS: Launceston Backpackers, Bicheno Backpackers, The Pickled Frog, Central City Backpackers, Cradle Mountain Lodge

TAS: BEST BACKPACKER NIGHT

WINNER: The Pickled Frog (Hobart)FINALISTS: BBQ night Strahan YHA, Pickled Frog, Backpacker Hub, Lloyds Hotel, Republic Bar & Cafe

TAS: BEST TOUR/ACTIVITY

WINNER: Jump ToursFINALISTS: Adventure Tours, 6-day Taste of Tasmania, Under Down Under, Jump Tours, Tours Tasmania One Day Tour, Cradle Mountain Canyon Tours

BEST BACKPACKER WEBSITE

WINNER: Hostelworld.comFINALISTS: Hostelbookers, Hostelworld, Stayatbase.com, Peterpans.com.au, TNTdownunder.com

AUSTRALIA: BEST SMALL TRAVEL AGENT

WINNER: Cairns Tribal TravelFINALISTS: Cairns Tribal Travel, Ultimate OZ, Duck Travel Shop Sydney, Mr Travel.com, Airliebeach.com

AUSTRALIA: BEST RECRUITMENT SERVICE

WINNER: Travellers at Work FINALISTS: Travellers at Work, The Job Shop, Down Under Jobs (Hotel Discovery), TNT Down Under Jobs, Australian Backpacker Jobs

AUSTRALIA: BEST TOUR OPERATOR

WINNER: Oz Experience FINALISTS: Mojosurf Australia, Oz Experience, Adventure Tours Australia, Topdeck, Wildlife Tours Australia

AUSTRALIA: BEST LARGE TRAVEL AGENT

WINNER: Peterpans Adventure TravelFINALISTS: Adventure Travel Bugs, Backpackers World Travel, Peterpans Travel Adventure, Tribal Travel, Mad Travel Shop

AUSTRALIA: BEST CAR/CAMPERVAN RENTAL

WINNER: SpaceshipsFINALISTS: Hippie Camper, Jucy Rentals AUS, Spaceships, Travellers Auto Barn, Wicked Campers

NSW: BEST HOSTEL

WINNER: Wake Up! Sydney FINALISTS: Bounce, Art Factory Byron Bay, Sydney Harbour, YHA Woodduck (Boomerang), Wake Up!

NSW: BEST BACKPACKER NIGHT

WINNER: Scary Canary (Sydney)FINALISTS: Spot X Mojo Surf, Oz Party Bus, Scary Canary, Side Bar, Scubar

NSW: BEST TOUR/ACTIVITY

WINNER: MojoSurfFINALISTS: BridgeClimb, Mojosurf, Australia Skydive Group, Oz Snow Adventures, Surf Camp Australia

+61 2 9472 2000 www.vintech.com.au

TNTDOWNUNDER.COM8

VICTORIA: BEST BACKPACKER NIGHT

WINNER: The Offi cial Neighbours NightFINALISTS: The Offi cial Neighbours Night, Habitat HQ Open Mic Night, Turf Bar (Hit The Turf), Blue Moon Bar, Red Eye Bar

WA: BEST TOUR/ACTIVITY

WINNER: Western Xposure, 10-day Perth-BroomeFINALISTS: Red Earth Safaris, Aussie Wanderer, Nullabor Traveller, Western Xposure, Easy Rider Tours

WA: BEST HOSTEL

WINNER: Old Swan BarracksFINALISTS: Billabong Backpackers Resort, Witches Hat, Emperors Crown, The Old Swan Barracks, Perth City YHA

VICTORIA: BEST TOUR/ACTIVITY

WINNER: Groovy Grape, Great Ocean Road FINALISTS: Bunyip, Great Ocean Road, Autopia Tours, Great Ocean Road, The Offi cial Neighbours Tour, Wildlife Tours, Great Ocean Road

VICTORIA: BEST HOSTEL

WINNER: Habitat HQ (Melbourne)FINALISTS: Greenhouse Backpackers, Space Hotel, Urban Central, Habitat HQ, Coffee Palace

NZ: BEST TOUR/TRANSPORT OPERATOR

WINNER: Kiwi ExperienceFINALISTS: Kiwi Experience, Stray, Magic Travellers Network, Jucy Cruise

NZ: BEST TOUR/ACTIVITY

WINNER: AJ Hackett Bungy, QueenstownFINALISTS: JUCY Cruize Milford Sound, Shotover Canyon Swing, Zorbing Rotorua, MojoSurf NZ, AJ Hacket Bungy

NZ: BEST CAR/CAMPERVAN RENTAL

WINNER: JucyFINALISTS: Escape Rentals, Mighty Cars and Campers, Jucy Rentals NZ Hippie Camper, Spaceships

BEST INDIGENOUS CULTURAL EXPERIENCE

WINNER: Tamaki Maori Village (Rotorua, NZ)FINALISTS: Tjapukai Aboriginal Cultural Park, Mitai Maori Village, Rotorua, Whakarewarewa Thermal Village Tours, Rotorua, Tamaki Maori Village, Daintree Dreaming

NZ: BEST HOSTEL

WINNER: Nomads QueenstownFINALISTS: Base Queenstown, Jucy Hotel, Auckland, Nomads Wellington, Nomads Queenstown, Downtown Backpackers Wellington

NT: BEST TOUR/ACTIVITY

WINNER: The Rock Tour, Alice Springs FINALISTS: Rock Tour, Adventure Tours, Crocosaurus Cove, Topdeck, Wayoutback Kakadu

NT: BEST BACKPACKER NIGHT

WINNER: The Rock Bar (Alice Springs)FINALISTS: Bojangles Saloon & Dining Room, Annies Place, The Rock Bar, Melaleuca On Mitchell, Shenanigan

WA: BEST BACKPACKER NIGHT

WINNER: Mustang BarFINALISTS: Mustang Bar, Hip-E Club, Kimberley Club Broome, Old Swan Barracks, Night Cruiser Party Bus

NT: BEST HOSTEL

WINNER: Toddys Backpackers (Alice Springs)FINALISTS: Annies place, Youth Shack, Melaleuca On Mitchell, Toddys Backpackers, Banyan View Lodge

NZ: BEST BACKPACKER NIGHT

WINNER: Big Night Out, QueenstownFINALISTS: Base Queenstown, Globe Bar (Base Auckland), The World Bar, Queenstown, Big Night Out, Queenstown, Minus5 Ice Bar

Includes:+RSRnKRSRIIcRDcKWUDYelEeWZeen6\dne\!&DLUns6uUIDnd6WD\DW6SRW;ZLWKPRsWPeDlsLncluded1LPELn'D\7RuU)DUP6WD\DW.URRPELW

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T&Cs: Prices are subject to change without notice. Local payments are to be paid to the tour operator directly. For full terms and conditions visit www.ozexperience.com.

VISIT OZEXPERIENCE.COM OR CALL 1300 300 028

Bruce Cobber

Includes:'ULYeU*uLded7UDYel6WD\Dnd6uUIDW6SRW;1LPELn'D\7RuU)DUP6WD\DW2uWEDcN&DWWle6WDWLRn

SYDNEY < > CAIRNS $669Package

+ Local

$564 + $105

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$1398 + $105

SA: BEST BACK PACKER NIGHT

WINNER: Backpack OZ (Adelaide)FINALISTS: Adelaide Pub Crawl, Adelaide Central YHA, Bar 108, P.J.OBriens Irish Pub, BackpackOZ

SA: BEST TOUR/ACTIVITY

WINNER: Groovy Grape, Barossa ValleyFINALISTS: Groovy Grape, Adventure Bay Charters, Sealink SA, Nullarbor Traveller, Shark Cage Diving Calypso Star Charters

QLD: BEST TOUR/ACTIVITY

WINNER: AJ Hackett Bungy CairnsFINALISTS: Whitsunday Sailing Adventures, True Blue Sailing, AJ Hacket Cairns, Passions of Paradise, Pro Dive Cairns

QLD: BEST BACKPACKER NIGHT

WINNER: Full Moon Down Under (Base)FINALISTS: The Woolshed, Birdee Num Nums, Full Moon Down Under (Base), Gilligans, The Down Under Bar and Grill, Airlie Beach

QLD: BEST HOSTEL

WINNER: Bunk (Brisbane)FINALISTS: Gilligans, Bunk, Greenhouse Backpackers Cairns, Base Airlie Beach, Nomads Cairns

AUSTRALIA: BEST TRANSPORT COMPANY

WINNER: Greyhound AustraliaFINALISTS: Great Southern Rail, Greyhound Australia, Jetstar, Oz Experience, Premier Motor Service, Virgin Australia

SA: BEST HOSTEL

WINNER: Shakespeare International Backpackers (Adelaide)FINALISTS: Barossa Backpackers, Shakespeare Backpackers, BackpackOz Adelaide, Nomads Travellers Inn Adelaide, Adelaide Central YHA

INNOVATION AWARD

PRESENTED TO: Hostelworld.com

OUTSTANDING ACHIEVEMENT AWARD

PRESENTED TO: Peter Ovenden

Terms and conditions: Discounted rates apply to standard brochured rates on the Sheepdog pass only. Bookings must be made between 2 Nov-29 Nov 2012. Standard 12 month travel validity applies. Offer not valid in conjunction with any other offer. Kiwi Experience reserves the right to withdraw this offer at anytime and without notice. Prices are in Australian dollars. Standard Kiwi Experience travel and booking terms and conditions apply. KX1050-10/12-AUDTNT

www.kiwiexperience.com

BOOK NOW! SAVE$240$AU$559

SHEEPDOG PASS

TNTDOWNUNDER.COM10

TNTDOWNUNDER.COM 11

CHATROOM follow us on @tnt_downunder

12 TNTDOWNUNDER.COM

Daniel Merriweather The RnB singer talks about living the high life in LA, returning home to Melbourne for Christmas, and why telling Jay Z to fuck off was actually a good ideaINTERVIEW CAITLIN STANWAY

So Dan, youre in LA at the moment?Yeah, Im living down here in LA and I love it! But Melbourne has to take the cake for places to live. Its my hometown, its where my family is. Whenever I go back there Ive always got a smile on my face. Youre back for Foreshore, wheres your fi rst stop when you touch down?My friend is a designer so I usually see him and stock up on the new gear hes been cooking up. Then hang out with my brothers and get a beer. Whose on the Foreshore must-see list?Im just really looking forward to seeing everyone. I always discover new artists and get inspired to see everyone there, so it will be really good fun. Im really looking forward to catching Sam Sparrows set at Homebake as well.

Homebake is in December, will you hang around for Christmas?Yeah Ill defi nitely stick around and hang with the fam. I havent seen them for a while so it will be good to hang out with them.

Whats a Merriweather Christmas like?Weve never been big into celebration you know.

We enjoy each others company, so well just hang out.

Has living in the US changed your sound?Living in LA with the sun and fresh air, well not real fresh actually, its probably changed, if anything, my mentality. So you know, mentality is music, so who knows what this next album will sound like. Paint me a picture of your next album?I cant. I really cant, at the moment its a collection of songs in really rough forms. Im defi nitely going to get into the studio soon and get a band together to try fi nd a sound that fi ts these songs. I really wanna go back to the 90s and early 2000s infl uences like RnB and soul. Any collaborators for the new album?Ive been working on other peoples music projects at the moment, so havent really got into the realm of collaborations for mine. But Ive been working with this guy called Justyn Pilbrow who used to be in this band called LMNOP from New Zealand. Hes incredibly talented, so that would be the fi rst collaboration for the album probably.

Jay Z was moving in on my girl

Catch Daniel Merriweather at the Foreshore Festival in Canberra (Nov 24) foreshorefestival.com.au, and Homebake Festival in Sydney (Dec 8) homebake.com.au

Who would be your ultimate artist to write for?There are some great, talented artists in the charts at the moment. I think Rhiannas an amazing artist. The way she expresses her personality, I think is really cool, so Id like to write something for her.

Living in LA, have you been star-struck?The only time Ive ever really been properly star-struck was when I fi rst met Jay Z, that would probably be the only time. I dont think you can walk into a room and not be star-struck, he sort of has this presence about him, but Ive slowly gotten over.

Any embarrassing celeb encounters? Yeah actually, I had a shocker with Jay Z. I went to Beyonces birthday a couple of years ago and Jay Z was there. It was this kind of intimate setting in the Hamptons and I got a bit drunk and thought Jay Z was moving in on my girl. So I sort of aggressively told him to fuck off, but in that kind of Australian way, you know? You dont mean to sound rude, but it comes out as rude. Some introduction! How did he take that?He kind of just stood there absolutely shocked, and I stormed off. Then I walked back into the room and he was playing chess and I said something weird like how can you be playing chess after four shots of Patron? and he looked at me again dumbfounded. Since then weve been actually a lot closer than we normally probably would have been because we went through this awkward introductory stage.

Youve done well, its gotta be hard to make an impression on Jay Z![Laughs] I have, I have! Sometimes youve gotta get into arguments with people before they take you seriously!

DUB DAY AFTERNOON

2012

SATURDAY 24TH NOVTHE JUBILEE HOTEL

470 ST PAULS TERRACE, THE VALLEY, BRISBANE5 MINUTES FROM FORTITUDE VALLEY TRAIN STA

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Entry: $18 presold or online / $20 on the doorOnline: www.oztix.com.au 1300 762 545 or oztix retail outlets (+ booking fee)

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OUTSIDE AREA CONTROLLED AND POWERED BY CHAMPION SOUND SYSTEM

FOOD AND DINNERS AVAILABLE

Fed up of carrying heavy guidebooks?Then TNT has the answer

AUSTRALIA, NEW ZEALAND & FIJI

THE INDEPENDENT TRAVELLERS' GUIDE

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Weve published our 2012 Independent Travellers Guide to Australia, New Zealand and Fiji.

Its free, its online and its full of tips on where to go, what to do and how to fi nd work.

Its also got listings for all the best hostels, tour companies and job agencies for all three countries, complete with links that will take you straight to their websites.

If youre travelling on, theres also sections on Papua New Guinea and Samoa.

To check it out, just head to tntdownunder.com and click the link on the right hand side.

AUSTRALIA, NEEEWWWWWWWWWW W W ZZEA

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TNTDOWNUNDER.COM 13

FILMREVIEW follow us on @tnt_downunder

TNTDOWNUNDER.COM14

THE INTOUCHABLES FILM review by Hugh Radojev

STARRING: Francois Cluzet, Omar Sy, Audrey Fleurot | M | 112 min

This fi lm became something of a cultural phenomena in France when it was released in 2011, and now it has begun to capture the hearts of audiences worldwide. It follows the heartbreaking, yet humorous, story of a disenfranchised Senegalese man living just above the poverty line on the mean outskirts of Paris who becomes the carer of a fabulously wealthy quadriplegic.

While this description may not sound like a barrel of laughs, trust me when I say that this really is an amusing fi lm. The humour oozes from the two main characters the paralysed Phillipe (played wonderfully well by Cluzet) and the strapping young Driss (played by an equally magnifi cent Omar Sy). The genuine affection they come to have for one another plays out beautifully in their laugh-out-loud banter.

The secondary characters, who also care for the invalid Phillipe, similarly play great supporting roles, particularly the fi ery and beautiful Magalie (Audrey Fleurot) the object of Driss desires.

Other reviewers have been less charitable to the fi lm, some going as far as to label it a Driving Miss Daisy without the excuses for the black character being in servitude to the rich, white benefactor. Without going into the delicate race relations that exist within modern French society, the fi lm portrays the relationship between the two men black and white in a sensitive and engaging way.

Such a view might be grounded in post-colonial academic discourses, but it detracts from what is a very well made, and generally lovely fi lm.

GOOD FOR: Anyone in the mood for a laugh and a warm fuzzy feeling at the end

MAN WITH THE IRON FISTSFILM preview. Released December 6

Russell Crowe, Lucy Liu, RZA | TBA | 95 mins

On the hunt for a fabled treasure of gold, a band of warriors, assassins, and a rogue British soldier descend upon a village in feudal China, where a humble blacksmith looks to defend himself and his fellow villagers. This looks to be a sort of neo-noir take on the classic outrageous Kung Fu movie. Looking forward to seeing director/actor/rapper DZA smashing fools. HR

dKKK

TNTDOWNUNDER.COM16

Ryans work on The Cribs newest album In the Belly of the Brazen Bull proves if nothing else that the guy can clearly play a guitar.

In the Belly of the Brazen Beast is arguably the clearest summation yet of what The Cribs are really about; this is guitar driven punk-pop laden with hooks and catchy choruses. Album opener Glitters like Gold has fuzzy distortion and rounded edges, whilst lead single Come on, Be a No-One struts and swaggers its way through two and a half minutes, pivoting unashamedly around the brash call to arms for the faceless proletariat that gives the song its name. It doesnt matter that the verses in this song dont really go anywhere you could hang half a tonnes worth of prime steer carcass off the hook.

Whilst the music might sound, at times, kind of shallow (if thats the right word) the lyrical content of the songs, in some cases at least, came from dark places. On face value, the song Chi-Town is a fairly unremarkable three-chord punk banger, and yet on closer inspection proves to be much more than that. Written by Ryan, Chi-Town details a story of love lost that he had not felt comfortable discussing, let alone writing about, for the best part of a decade.

The song is about a very great regret of mine, I was supposed to move to Chicago a long time ago and marry this girl but it didnt work out, says Ryan, speaking honestly about the experience. Thats what punk rock is though, its all about emotion. Why cant a love song be short, fast and loud? Why does it have to be quiet and slow?

It is a very consistent and coherent record, remarkably so, in fact. Along with producing a song on the album

Band of brothersYorkshire cult band The Cribs will soon be knocking on Aussie doors hoping to win over new fans with their punk-rock stylings WORDS HUGH RADOJEV

MUSICFOCUSlike us on facebook/tntdownunder

TNTDOWNUNDER.COM 17

Why can't a love song be short fast and loud? The Cribs have toured the world, released several critically acclaimed albums, and until recently, counted legendary guitarist Johnny Marr amongst their members. And yet, the Yorkshire band have always fl own a bit under the radar here in Australia. Comprised of three brothers: twins Gary (vocals and bass) and Ryan Jarman (lead guitar and vocals) and younger brother Ross (drums), The Cribs have, for a number of years now, been a huge deal in the UK. In 2008, they were labeled The biggest cult band in the UK, after releasing perhaps their best known album, Mens Needs, Womens Needs, Whatever in the same year.

The band started as a recording project for the brothers in 2001 when Gary and Ryan set up their own analogue studio in an ancient mill in the north of England and recorded and produced their fi rst demos. This hands on attitude was inspired by the punk rock movement in the late 1970s and has, in a sense, come to defi ne The Cribs sound. Yet as Ryan Jarman explains, it is not an image thing for the band so much as it is just a matter of convenience.

We absolutely do stick to that punk ethos still, but not for any dogmatic reasons, it just makes more sense that way. Those are the ethics that were instilled in us when we were growing up. Gary and I kind of grew up in that sort of Fanzine culture and weve always tried to eschew all that rock star bullshit.

This is a band who, at the very beginning, would pack all their gear into a van and drive up and down the UK offering to play warehouses and house parties for free just to refi ne their craft and spread the word.

It is clear by talking to Ryan that he is a man without pretension and is very reserved when it comes to talking about himself. When asked how long he has been playing the guitar for he pauses and says Oh, I dunno, maybe since I was a teenager. I never really learnt properly though, I try not to be too academic about it.

This from a man who has stood shoulder to shoulder on stages around the world with one of alternative musics most celebrated lead guitarists former Smiths legend Johnny Marr for four years. Combine that with the evidence of

Photos: Steve Gullick, G

etty Images

The Cribs will play the Pyramid Rock Festival (Dec 29-Jan 1), Sydney (Jan 2), Melbourne (Jan 4). See: thecribs.com

around the world was a concern for the band at the time Ryan Jarman insists it was a deliberate choice.

It was just good being back together as a trio and we thought to ourselves, why dont we just do what we want? It was sort of a case of being like, we love Pinkerton so why dont we see if we can work with Dave Fridmann? Or Im a huge fan of Steve Albinis so why dont we see if hes available? Thats kind of how it happened.

It was the sessions with Fridmann that seem to have proven the most fruitful as nine of the songs from In the Belly of the Brazen Beast emanated from the band's work with the American producer in New York State. Hes very, very open, said Jarman. In the studio hes just like 'do what you want.' It was all about using sounds that you never hear, using different pedals and stuff. The freedom afforded to the Yorkshire lads in the studio does come across in the album, it is a slightly less sonically polished album than their last effort, 2009's Ignore the Ignorant, but it doesnt suffer for it. If anything, it actually makes the album sound stronger and perhaps a little bit more honest.

Armed with their new album The Cribs will be visiting our shores early next year playing the Pyramid Rock Festival in Victoria as well as a few shows on the east coast. With Come on, Be a No-One getting plenty of love on Triple J, The Cribs stocks are surely set to rise in Australia.

So, if The Cribs haven't surfaced on your radar yet, it's best to take note now and get on board.

From the cradle to the crib: the brothers are glad to be a trio again

TNTDOWNUNDER.COM18

themselves, The Cribs ended up using tracks from sessions with two producers, Steve Albini of Nirvana and Pixies fame, and David Fridmann whose producing credits include Pinkerton by Weezer and The Soft Bulletin by The Flaming Lips. They also started session work with former Queen producer David Richards, sessions that, in the end, were abandoned.

However, when asked whether or not working with so many different producers and in so many different studios

The brothers at this year's Q Awards

TNTDOWNUNDER.COM 19

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Email us at tom@tntdownunder.com with Spotted in the subject line, email must include a photo of yourself! Boom - Youve won yourself a $50 bar tab at Sidebar.

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WINNER

WEEKLY WINNERINTO THE BLUE: Charmaine Blanch, UKCHARMAINE SAYS: This is a photo I took at Turquoise Bay Its a picture of the crystal clear waves crashing on a sand bar with Ningaloo Reef in the background! WE SAY: A lovely photograph of the crystal clear waters that give one of WAs most visited tourist attractions its well earned name. The power and majesty of the sea wonderfully captured and juxtaposed against the serenity of the sandbank. Well done Charmaine!

Get a tripod! In sports photography for instance, the common perception is to zoom in to get as much action as possible into one tight frame. In some cases, this isnt possible: perhaps you are too close to your subject or you dont have the right equipment. When using your wide angle lens, the trick is to be creative so that your subject doesnt become a tiny dot in a huge wide frame. A tripod will help you here, allowing the camera to either stand or pan steadily allowing you to keep your subject in focus without blurring anything or missing the action. Love them or hate them, tripods are a necessity.

HOT TIPS: Wide angles WINSend high-res (300 dpi) jpegs with name, age, nationality and a description to:hugh@tntdownunder.com. Photos are judged by the TNT team at their own discretion. Photos will also be placed on TNTs Facebook page. For terms and conditions, see tntdownunder.com.

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WHERE HAVE YOU BEEN IN OZ?We have just fi nished the biggest part of our road trip that started in Sydney and up the east coast, Savannah Way over to Darwin and from there down the middle and south Australia. WHERE ARE YOU GOING NEXT? The fi nishing line will be the great ocean road over to Melbourne and after that fl y to Tasmania.

FAVOURITE PLACE IN OZ?Ive seen to many good places to mention one but I would say Alice Springs. Loved the atmosphere and the surprisingly trendy cafs!.

MOST MEMORABLE EXPERIENCE?I have to say that S.S Yongala was one of the most amazing dives Ive ever done. Even if getting out there was pretty rough.

HOW ARE THE LOCALS?The locals are so friendly! Back at home its not like you invite people home when youve just met them but here it is totally different.

ADVICE FOR TRAVELLERS?Do your own thing, go mental, and avoid the crowded places.

Q I want to get away from all the hustle and bustle of Sydney, whats there to do outside the city limits? Gertrud Adler, Germany

A Were glad you asked that Gertrud because theres loads to do outside Sydneys busy city! Make your way out west to Sydneys second CBD in Parramatta for a variety of different foods and fl avours. If youre feeling adventurous, head towards the Blue Mountains for a romantic little getaway in a quaint cottage and then make sure you see the Three Sisters (pictured) the rock formation near the town of Katoomba. If the outback is more your thing, head towards Broken Hill for a look into the heart of NSWs outback community. Alternatively, Newcastle in the north is beautiful this time of year or maybe a relaxing beach trip in Nelson Bay would be more your style? There are plenty of things to do outside of Sydneys city and weve only hit the tip of the iceberg here. Hop on a train or coach and just see where the wind takes you the best adventures are always the ones you never plan.

Q Im a keen surfer, where are the best beaches? Sebastian Duroy, FranceA Australia is renowned as one of the worlds premier surfi ng destinations. So you will

fi nd yourself very spoilt for choice. You really cant go past Sydneys northern beaches, from Manly to Palm Beach, this coastline will keep you entertained for hours. It really sums up the Australian dream summer at its fi nest. Let the pristine sand, sun and surf whisk you away. Its worth a visit to Torquays Bells Beach located in Australias southern state Victoria. It is home to Australias most prestigious professional surfi ng event, the Rip Curl Pro. Swells from the Southern Ocean break over the shallow reefs to produce outstanding surf that can rise to fi ve metres or more, so when it gets big, most of us are best advised to think of surfi ng Bells as a spectator sport. Last but not least is Snapper Rocks, this world renowned surfi ng spot on the Gold Coast is home to the world-famous Super Bank, regarded in surfi ng circles as the longest, most consistent hollow wave in the world.

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CHECKING INCOOL BANANASAGNES WATER

OVERVIEW Cool Bananas is a friendly hostel in the middle of the Town of 1770. Just a fi ve minute walk from the beach, you can use boogie boards and surf boards for free. Greg the owner knows

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While trying to drive across the Simpson Desert, LIZZIE JOYCE and her partner were forced to hitch a ride with some dodgy truckers.

My boyfriend Dan and I were attempting to cross the Simpson Desert on our way to Alice Springs from Sydney. We set off in our 4WD loaded with equipment, including 60 litres of water, a double swag and a laser beam.

After 10 hours of driving, watching the landscape turn from highways and tall buildings to red earth and eternal horizons, we glided past an old mining town called Cobar, stopped for a wee and drove on through, thankful that this Hicksville town was not our destination. But while driving at an average speed of 120km per hour, the trusty car (which I was assured had just had a full service and was made for driving across such terrain) was disintegrating and the entire wheel was about to fall off.

Suddenly the brakes started to fail and smoke started pouring out of the front passenger tyre. We were 120km from the last town and with at least 100km to the next, Dan decided we should drive on (without brakes) and see if we could make it to our destination. Luckily it didnt last long anyway as the car stopped in defi ance and we were forced to pull off the

road in the middle of nowhere. Within minutes two semi-trailers ,driven in convoy by brothers, pulled up to offer us help. They werent exactly the knights in shining armour I had hoped for, these two ugly truckers. Freaky Brother One began to undress me with his eyes, almost frothing at the mouth at coming in such close proximity to someone of the opposite sex, while Freaky Brother Two was pretending to be a mechanic, baffl ing Dan with his bullshit. It was turning into Wolf Creek.

Nothing could be done with the car, and we had no choice but to accept a lift from Freaky Brother One to the nearest roadhouse 13km up the road. But then he said there wouldnt be enough room in the cab so Dan should travel with his brother and I should hop into his cab by myself. I was close to hysteria. There was no way I would be getting in that lorry by myself.

So we both hopped in with Brother Number Two. Dan settled in the middle of the very spacious cab which had enough room to house a small Albanian family!

I thought it would be plain sailing from here. But after a couple of minutes, Brother Number One starts becoming agitated he thinks he has lost his keys as he cant use the radio to contact his brother. He pulls onto the

side of the road and asks me to hop out to see if he had left them in the door lock. This forced me into ungraceful acrobatic maneuvers in order to hang myself out the door and reach round to grab the keys, with Freaky Brother One more than enjoying the view of my ass in the air. The keys were there, so off we set again in stilted silence.

Finally we caught sight of the roadhouse and saw our escape was only minutes away we made a sharp exit from the freaky brothers. The roadhouse turned out to be a petrol pump and a shop that was about to close. They had a phone though and we arranged for a tow truck to pick us up and take us back to the nearest town: Cobar (the Hicksville town wed previously scorned) where we would have to wait for the next three days for the car to be repaired. How ironic that the town we were laughing at turned out to be our refuge.

DESTINATION: HICKSVILLE

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Send us your scary, funny or embarrassing travel tale (preferably about Australia or New Zealand) and if we like it well publish it in TNT and on our website! Email your stories (700 words max), to hugh@tntdownunder.com

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26 TNTDOWNUNDER.COM

The north-westTASMANIA

Photos: Tourism Tasm

ania, Justin Steinlauf, Tarkine Forest Adventures

27TNTDOWNUNDER.COM

OZTRIP

Im in a sack with a helmet strapped to my head about to slide 110 metres down into the worlds only known Blackwood sinkhole. Reaching speeds of 45km/hr on what appears to be a water slide (sans water), I let out a ghoulish scream, twisting and turning, almost spinning out of control until I reach the bottom. Luckily I am not propelled into the abyss, but come to a halt above a wooden walkway in the Dismal Swamp Forest. Around me are bizarre doors, gothic signposts and just when Im about to say this reminds me of Alice in Wonderland, our guide Graham announces that weve just fallen down the rabbit hole.

Although the Tasmanians are pretty spot on with the naming of their towns (usually named after an explorer, a ship, or an anglicized Aboriginal word), Dismal Swamp does not live up to its name. Its actually quite beautiful. Well, in a weird way, like a French Bulldog or a loved one in the morning.

The swamp is in the middle of the stretch of wilderness in Tasmanias northwest known as the Tarkine. Graham has created Tarkine Forest Adventures above the swamp, where visitors can explore the swamp fl oor and see the unique eco-system at work. The area is home to sixty rare and endangered species of fl ora and fauna, among them the soaring Tasmanian wedge tailed eagle and giant freshwater crayfi sh. The forest is peaceful, quaint and engulfs you in its cool, damp air. Graham tells us its some of the cleanest air in the world.

Like Alice, I explore the curious forest, breathing in Tasmanias native woods and oak. Local artists have created works like the Living Room which looks like a giant ribcage; the Giants Door which has a giant peephole (very CS Lewis), and Crayfi sh Craters which have been inspired by the burrowing crayfi sh in the area.

Once youve taken the slide to the bottom and walked

Garden of earthly delights Tasmanias north-west is referred to as the edge of the world, but theres nothing isolating about their food, wine and natural beauty WORDS ALEX HARMON

around, its a windy walk up-hill to return to the visitors centre.

Before we hit the road we use the bathrooms which have wonderful views over the forest. It seems XXXX Island werent the fi rst people to come up with a loo with a view.

Magic on every corner

We are on a road trip around Tasmanias north west. The beauty of Tasmania is that youre never far from your next adventure. Its compact, with diversity on every corner of the map. You can spend the morning in the surf and then within an hour you can be scaling a mountain. After a bacon and egg roll at the farmers market, we leave the sleepy city of Launceston and head west. But its not long before we are hungry again. This could have something to do with the signs for chocolate

factories, cheese, and raspberry farms in Elizabeth Town. We rock, paper, scissors it and settle on the cheese farm.

Pulling up to the driveway, we are met with brightly painted cows who watch over the 700 strong herd in the farm. The fi breglass life-sized cows were decorated by students and we learn once were inside of one who was stolen, never to be seen again.

Cheese, wonderful cheese

The cheesemakers honed their skills in England, and while they make a mighty fi ne Chedder and Lancashire, they also create some pretty unique and mouth watering fl avours like wasabi or lavender cheese. There are samples in the factory and if you think backpackers are bad, you should see the Grey Nomads stocking up on cheese like they dont know when their next meal will be.

After a cheese hit we get back on the road but its not long before were tempted by the Christmas Hills Raspberry farm up ahead. Go on then, I say to my travel buddy, pull over and lets see if Tassie can produce decent berries.

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WHAT TO DO: Entry to Tarkine Forest Adventures costs $25pp including two slides (adventureforests.com.au). Ashgrove Cheese Farm has free entry (ashgrovecheese.com.au). Stanley Nut Chairlift costs from $10. Stanley Tour Co do penguin tours from Oct-May (stanleytourco.com.au). WHERE TO STAY: Stanley Cabin Park has hostel beds from $26p/n. (stanleycabinpark.com.au)GETTING THERE: Virgin fl ies from Sydney to Launceston daily. See virginaustralia.com.auSEE MORE: discovertasmania.com.au

Photos: Tourism Tasm

ania, Justin Steinlauf, Tarkine Forest Adventures

Naturally, like all the other food and wine Ive tried in the state, the raspberries are outstanding. We have some chocolate covered raspberries, raspberry hot chocolates and raspberry waffl es and then roll out of the farm cursing Tassie and their divine produce.

Going absolute nuts

Further north past seaside towns, the harbour city of Devonport and a quick detour to the beautiful tulip plantations in Wynyard, we arrive in Stanley.

We know were in Stanley because as we approach we see The Nut jutting out into Bass Straight. This huge rock is the plug of an extinct volcano, which stands approximately 150 metres high with a fl at top. In fact Matthew Flinders thought it looked like a fruit cake which it kind of does.

The reason its called the nut, though, has nothing to do with cake, or anything else that may spring to mind when looking a big round rock, but because of the shortened Aboriginal word for it Moo-Nut-Re-Ker.

The quaint little town is a little bit like a English fi shing village with rows of brightly coloured cottages dotted around the bay. I fi nd that walking around the town is like visiting a fi lm lot from the early 1900s. The old bank, the hotel, even the phone box is antique. There are no signs of commercialism, instead we see several craft shops, tea houses, potteries and galleries. Later that evening we dine at the Stanley Hotel (which also featured in an episode of Masterchef) and overlooks the sea. We devour local oysters, steak, and wine from the original cellar downstairs as the sun goes down over the bay.

But theres no time to sink into a quiet Stanley evening,

because were going on a penguin walk. Every sunset the cute feathery creatures emerge from the

sea and waddle across the rocks and up the shore to their burrows. We pile on layers of clothes and get down to the rookery where we see the nesting birds and chicks waiting for their parents to return.

It wouldnt be a penguin tour without a few stories of penguin love. These creatures mate for life and upon hearing this, the couples in the tour squeeze their partners hands, giving each other the look of love. Penguins have the ability to make you feel all warm and fuzzy inside, like attending a wedding. I sleep well that night thinking of feathery love. Did I just say that?

The next day were up early to take on The Nut. Luckily there is a chairlift that takes us to the summit. Like being on a grassy ski fi eld we hop on and ascend the volcanic plug. Once were at the top its an easy walk around the plateau spotting wildlife and taking in the panoramic views of the coast. There is the option to walk down the nut, but weve got to get back on the road and return to Launceston, so we hop back on the chairlift and sail down the face of The Nut.

March of the penguin

Although weve got to make haste, we manage to make time to pull into the little seaside town of Penguin. Named after, yes, you guessed it, the birds that live in the rookeries along the coast. As is tradition in Australia, the town have created their own big thing the Big Penguin

We take photos posing like penguins, our feet out-turned and our arms held tense against our bodies.

Not quite as cute as last nights creatures, I conclude.

28 TNTDOWNUNDER.COM

Break me off a slice of that!

Just a short flight from Melbourne or Sydney and you could be visiting Tasmania, the southern island state of Australia, where 1.38 million hectares of luscious wilderness will ignite your passion for mountain biking adventure. Pedal through pristine rainforest single track, across wild rivers, jaw-dropping bridges, and along deserted beachscapes beside the southern ocean. With terrain this diverse you can tailor your ride to feature cruisy country bends, thrilling downhill runs or challenging climbs. Visit www.discovertasmania.com.au or www.backpacktassie.com for local backpacking info.

Sydney

Melbourne

TASMANIA

T H E R E A R E P L A C E S I N Tasmania W H E R E Y O U C A N E X P E C T

spectacular falls.

. . . A N D I T S O N L Y A S H O R T R I D E F R O M H O M E .

30 TNTDOWNUNDER.COM

Hidden beneath the picturesque farmland of Guns Plains is a fascinating world of caves, sinkholes and underground streams. Located in the Gunns Plains State Reserve, the caves are around 30 kilometres south of Ulverstone in north-west Tasmania. This 10 hectare area was one of the earliest cave reserves in Tasmania, being proclaimed a State Reserve in 1918.

The cave was discovered in 1906 by local Gunns Plain man, Bill Woodhouse during a hunting trip. It is reputed that one of his dogs fell into a hole that formed part of the cave. These days it is renowned for its magnificent formations, including calcite shawls and flowstones, and has a glow-worm display.

The cave was formed by an underground river that still flows and contains freshwater crayfish, fish and eel. Platypus sleep and nest in the sandy banks along the river. Camping, accommodation and refreshments are also available nearby.

If youre wanting to enjoy this rare gem, see the stunning cave formations, the rich colours and the sparkling crystals which are all equally breathe taking then make sure to pack your most comfortable shoes. The cave consists of a series of caverns and short passages through which visitors are escorted along well lit concrete pathways. Upon entry a steep flight of 54 concrete steps are descended and from this point the pathway is fairly level apart from a short ladder to be climbed down. The tour route through the cave is some 275 meters long.

The cave is renowned for its magnificent shawl and flowstone formations and the recent improvements will assist visitors to enjoy the cave experience.

Interpretive guided tours of the cave are run daily at 10am, 11am, and 12pm, 1.30pm, 2.30pm and 3.30pm.

See: gunnsplainscaves.com.au for more info.

TOTES UNDERGROUND: EXPLORING GUNNS PLAINS CAVE BY AMELIA GRAY

DISCOVER THE MAGIC!Enjoy spectacular shawl formations, stalactites, and stalagmites. In this mysterious subterranean world witness GlowWorms. Maybe spy Freshwater Lobster and Platypus in a rushing underground stream.

Open Daily. Closed Christmas Day Guided tours @ 10am, 11am, 12pm, 130pm, 230pm & 330pmEntry only $15 per person.

Caves RdGunns Plains TAS 7315Phone 03 64291388info@gunnsplainscaves.com.auwww.gunnsplainscaves.com.au

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AMAZING STORIES, EPIC HISTORY

Discover more for yourself! www.portarthur.org.au Port Arthur, Tasmania Tel: 1800 659 101

He was in a most dreadful state to pass from this world He was in a most dreadful state to pass from this world to another. to another. REPORT OF WILLIAM RILEYS TRIAL IN THE COLONIAL TIMES REPORT OF WILLIAM RILEYS TRIAL IN THE COLONIAL TIMES

WILLIAM RILEY WAS A CONVICT WILLIAM RILEY WAS A CONVICT

WHO WAS ABANDONED AS A CHILD WHO WAS ABANDONED AS A CHILD

AN INOFFENSIVE, ORDERLY BOY AN INOFFENSIVE, ORDERLY BOY

TRANSPORTED AT FOURTEEN, TRANSPORTED AT FOURTEEN,

A DRUNK BY SIXTEEN, A MURDERER A DRUNK BY SIXTEEN, A MURDERER

BY TWENTY-NINE WHAT HAPPENED BY TWENTY-NINE WHAT HAPPENED

TO WILLIAM RILEY? TO WILLIAM RILEY?

No road trip around the north west should be complete without a trip to a brewery (note: we do not condone drink driving, make sure you have a friend willing to play DD for the day!)

Seven Sheds Brewery Meadery and Hop Garden in Railton Tasmania is not just perfectly placed for a post-Cradle Mountain refresher, it also makes for a great afternoon of beery history, where visitors have the chance to meet the brewers and try a few of the flavours.

Owners Willie Simpson and Catherine Stark opened the Seven Sheds brewery in May 2008 and today their meadery and hop garden provides a purpose built tasting room, brewery tours and cellar door sales.

The couple are one of the smallest beer producers in the country and thus have the luxury of being able to use 100 per cent estate-grown hop flowers.

We stopped by during our Tassie road trip and were treated to a tour of the brewery, where they brew some of their beer in milk vats! We even went out into the garden and picked some hops in the sunshine. We were also treated to a few different tastings of Sheds brew. I must say the Razzamatazz was my favourite with its raspberry infused, happy, hoppy flavour.

For more on Seven Sheds, head to: sevensheds.com

THIRSTY WORK FOR SOME: SEVEN SHEDS BREWERY

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No doubt youve ticked the crazy eastcoast off your list, perhaps youveeven been to Uluru, maybe evenexplored the west, but have you beento Tasmania? The little green state down under sometimes gets forgotten, but were here to tell you that you are crazy to neglect Australias Apple Isle.

Tasmania is great for escaping theeveryday. Its an unspoilt playground for abundant wildlife, with scenery unlike anywhere else on Earth,certainly not a place that you shouldskip on past. Which is why TNT hasteamed up with a whole bunch ofour Tassie friends to put together this fantastic package allowing you and a

mate the chance to sample some ofwhat the state has to offer.

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Diving with sharksFIJI

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BIGTRIP

Remember when sex was safe and diving was dangerous? reads one of the endless dive stickers that dot our boat. I stare at it in awe. After all, Im about to jump in the water, without a cage, to meet dozens of large sharks. Bull sharks in particular, with an outside chance of also spotting tigers. In other words, Ill be in open water with the sort of tooth-heavy predators that are commonly labelled maneaters. Wed only need a great white to complete the big three that, on a normal day, you really dont want to see in the water. If this insanity is safe, then what the hell do these guys get up to in their sex lives?

Im in Pacifi c Harbour, a sleepy little community a few hours drive east along the coast from Nadi, on Fijis Viti Levu Island. The area is home to little more than a small village and a few resorts, but these hotels are thriving thanks to two water-based attractions the highly rated Frigates Passage surf break and the big shark feeding in Beqa Lagoon, which has rapidly earned a reputation for being one of the worlds most exciting dives. That reputation is born out, it seems, by the inhabitants of my boat all experienced divers hailing from as diverse a group as nations as the USA, Slovenia, the UK, South Africa, New Caledonia, Australia, New Zealand and Panama.

The dives began back in 1999. They were started, as all such craziness seems to be, by a South African.

All the resorts thought I was mad and didnt want to get involved at fi rst, the man himself, Brandan Paige, tells me. And, in a way, the so-called shark whisperer is mad. But theres also no denying the Beqa dive industry owes it all to him. The other resorts entered the market a year and a half after me, continues Brandan. Theyd decided it was safe. Aqua Trek customers had been the guinea pigs. And with not a single incident in all those years so far, that analysis seems fair. However, edging towards the back of the boat, theres only one thought going through my mind. Theres a fi rst time for everything.

Shark talesFiji might be famous for its perfect beaches, but it also boasts some of the most exciting underwater experiences on the planet WORDS ANDREW WESTBROOK

Under the water it quickly becomes clear were no longer in the land of Fiji Time. Brandan has plenty of troops and theyre well in control. Taken down to around 24 metres, we hang onto a rope and form a line, waiting for the show to begin. The bins of bait are lowered into the arena as the circus masters take their positions while sentries patrol behind and above us. And then the frenzy begins.

The water clouds with activity. A huge groper hovers right in front, while sicklefi n lemon, grey reef and whitetip reef sharks zip left and right, fi lling my vision. Sparkling tropical fi sh cower right in front of my mask, closer than Ive ever experienced, clearly realising Im the least of their worries right now.

At one point a dive master calmly taps me on the shoulder to make me aware

of the disturbed moray eel right behind me, halfway out of his hole and snapping around like a snarling rottweiler straining against its lead. A sight like that would often be the highlight of a dive, but here its just the sideshow, a circus

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WHAT TO DO: Beqa Lagoon shark dive with Aqua Trek (aquatrek.com) costs FJD$270. Awesome Adventures (awesomefi ji.com) offer various packages for Yasawa Flyer transport and island accommodation (fi ve-day trips, including food, start at FJD$797). Manta ray swim costs FJD$35. Naqalia shark swim costs FJD$50.CURRENCY: Fijian dollar.$1 = 1.85 FJDACCOMMODATION: Nadi Bay Resort Hotel (fi jinadibayhotel.com) has beds from FJD$37.SEE: For an overview of what Fiji has to offer, go to tourismfi ji.com

Found you!

freak vying for a part amongst the lion tamers and acrobats.

The running of the bullsThe running of the bulls

Some of the stars, a few big bull sharks, have arrived. The giant ball of feasting sways left and right, every now and then dissected by a bull lunging in, prompting panicked fl urries of escape in every direction.

And the bulls are most defi nitely big. Without my phalanx of protectors, I wouldnt stand a chance if they fancied a go. But they dont seem bothered. They swim right past, only a couple of metres away, and pay no attention. Several times one emerges from the swarm and heads straight for me, its giant frame, with its hulking shoulders and mean, frowning face, a picture perfect example of an untameable predator.

Each time it gives me a derisory sneer before veering off to terrify some other hapless creature. Strangely enough, however, its more exhilarating than terrifying. In fact, it really does feel safe, as well as absolutely mesmerising and engrossing. Indeed, having dived across the world, including having jumped into a couple of cages to see great whites, this is the best Ive experienced. I simply dont want to leave.

Yet soon enough we hear the tapping on tanks that is the signal for our departure, which is also the most unnerving part of the dive. We head back up through the open water, and hover for our three minute rest stop, knowing that no small number of large sharks are very close.

But that, we soon learn, was just the warm-up act. An hour on the boat to refuel, chatter excitedly and let yet more big sharks work out theres food in the area and were back in, this time heading to a different location where we all perch behind a small wall. This, it soon becomes clear, is where the main show takes place. And soon enough, a dozen or more bull sharks have joined the party, ducking in from the sides, swimming straight at us once more.

Movement is everywhere. Fins, teeth, fl esh, fi sh heads.

Theres no doubt that danger is all around, but its never felt, the troops marshalling both the divers and sharks in a way that is under control, the maniacs even hand-feeding giant heads to the bulls before darting out of the way.

The scene in front of us is nature at its most brutal and beautiful, hectic and somehow harmonious. There must be hundreds, if not thousands of creatures just metres away, all with senses on full alert, and yet from our position, Im

surreally calm, as though David Attenboroughs soft tones are easing me through the experience in my head. No tigers show up (it had been a week since the last appearance), but I dont even realise until long after the dive, when I can fi nally begin to comprehend what Ive been lucky enough to witness.

Meeting mantasMeeting mantas

Its not just travellers who love visiting the paradise islands of the Yasawas, but manta rays too

Bom, bom, bom, bom! The sound of drumming echoes through the trees as I stir in my bunk. That means either breakfast or manta rays. Both good options, but what to take snorkel or appetite? Pausing a moment I hear the rubbery sounds of people scurrying past. Manta rays it is then.

Im on Nanuya Balavu Island, home to the cunningly-

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The maniacs are hand-feeding giant heads to the bull sharks

named Mantaray Resort, having island hopped for three hours through the Mamanucas and halfway up the Yasawas. Here, almost daily during the right season (May to October), mantas are spotted in the channel round the corner from the resort. And each time that eyes are laid on one of these giant beauties, which can grow up to 7 metres wide, the drum call goes out and weve got a few minutes to get to the beach and make the departing boat. So on we get and off we go.

A few swift minutes ride and were there. Almost immediately we spot the fi rst small fi n atop a large shadow and, splash, were in. And there it is, right below us. Massive, elegant, playful, it fl oats through the powerful current like a magic carpet. Flapping its wings, it mouth agape. It soars past at a speed impossible to compete with, dragging its long spear-like tail behind it. I try not to think about Steve Irwin.Having been lured into the current by our fi rst sighting, we hitch a lift back to the top of the channel and go in search once again. We spot a few more, each several metres wide. One of them sits below us for a good fi ve minutes, contentedly devouring the plankton which the current delivers straight into its mouth while I swim frantically above it, desperately fi ghting the current to stay in position. Once it fi nally decides to move on, Im knackered, which means one thing back to the beach.

Fin fetishFin fetish

Fed up of crowds and, er, safety precautions? Escape the masses with a more hands-on shark experience.

Its straight after breakfast and three of us join our Fijian hosts Fish and Si to head off, straight out to sea. Behind us were leaving Wayalailai Island. Naqalia Lodge to be more precise. Its a small, family-run place, a lodge where the handful of bures were tents only a few years ago and where

37TNTDOWNUNDER.COM

getting to know the family is as important as sipping cocktails in a hammock. Its also happens to offer experiences the larger resorts would be terrifi ed of running such as shark feeding snorkel trips.

After about 15 minutes, with land a long way off in every direction, we come to a stop. Si suddenly strips off, grabs his spear (basically a metal rod with a big rubber band) and jumps into the water. It turns out were right on top of Mouya Reef. We wait several minutes until Si reappears, victorious, with a parrot fi sh skewered on his spear. The gleaming parrot fi sh is handed over and duly ripped in two. No sentimentality for beauty here, its once stunning body now a crushed mess.

Its now our turn to jump in. Skirting the edge of the reef, Fish soon points out the fi rst whitetip reef shark. And then another. And another. Theyre not big, perhaps 1-1.5m, but theyre sharks, sharks with teeth, and our guide Fish (this could get confusing) is carrying a dead fi sh.

Paddling around above them, its hard not to feel vulnerable, unsure of whats about to happen. They begin circling us, fi ve of them in total. Starting a few metres below us, Fish gives them a sight of the bait, held close to his chest until now, and their interest steps up a notch. Theyre suddenly at our level. I keep an eye on one as it passes me to my left, only to have a second bump past me on the right. Keeping track of them all is near impossible. Fish starts stroking them on the back of the neck as they pass, so I follow suit. The skin is leathery and the shark picks up speed, but seems to crane upwards like a cat. It seems to like it. The food gone, the sharks hang around, wondering if more will come. Either that or theyre just trying to work out what sort of crazy creatures we are, dropping out of the sky, useless in the water and giving them food in return for a sly grope.

Do they feel used? Do they feel dirty? Probably just a bit less hungry.

easygoing suburb is also famous for its cafes and bohemian lifestyle. With plenty of places to either eat, drink or just sit and watch the sun set over one of the West's great beaches. 18:00: Feeding time! Perth has one of the best new restaurant scenes in the country, so watch out Sydney and Melbourne! Indulge in a variety of unique restaurants but keep a close watch on the prices if youre on a budget. Perth can be quite expensive when it comes to food. Red Teapot (redteapotrestaurant.com.au) might just be what youre looking for. The broad range of Chinese food is reasonably priced and very tasty. 20:00: Greenhouse (greenhouseperth.com) is the only rooftop bar in town and defi nitely worth a visit. Its not just the rooftop that makes it so special, its the herbs and veggies that actually grow there. As fresh as it can get from the rooftop, straight to the kitchen. They didnt call it the Greenhouse for nothing, obviously. 21:30: The Amplifi er (amplifi ercapitol.com.au) is the place to go to for good live music. Great for catching the latest in local and international indie bands. DAY 2: 9:00: Head over to trendy Fremantle and explore the edgy and creative surrounds. Youll know what Im talking about once you set foot in Moore & Moore (mooreandmoorecafe.com). This caf in Freo offers breakfast that will fi ll you just fi ne and leave feeling dandy at least thats what they say. Everybody deserves a treat every now and then, so go on and order one of their

DAY 1: xGorgeous weather, loads of adventure, action and entertainment, an easygoing mentality and beautiful beaches. Perth really does have a perfect combination of big attractions in relaxed surroundings. 8:00: Start the day of adventure with a big breakfast in a teeny tiny place in trendy Northbridge: Little Willys. The food is simple, yet delicious and, unlike the name suggests, size does matter the servings are huge! 9:00: Since youre in the neighbourhood already, wander around the Art Gallery of Western Australia (artgallery.wa.gov.au) and check out the huge variety of work. Its especially worth a visit from August to December, as youll be able to catch the annual WA Indigenous Art Awards entrants on display. Whats even better is its free to enter. 12:00: Whilst visiting a mint probably isn't high on most people's agenda when on holiday, The Perth Mint (perthmint.com.au) is surely the exception to the rule. Establish in 1899 the Mint is packed with a huge amount of things to see and do. Apart from watching legal tender being minted, you can design and make your very own coins, whether you'd prefer silver or gold is entirely up to you. 15:00: Ever wanted to give windsurfi ng a go? Try it at Port or Leighton beach. Rather stay high and dry? Hiring a bike is a good alternative to be active and explore the city and the beaches at the same time. 17:30: Make sure you head over to Cottesloe Beach for a magnifi cent sunset. Next to the beautiful beach, this

Freedom cityThis is Perth in 48 hoursWORDS MICHLE GIEBING

TRAVELWEEKENDER

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tempting cakes that will make you drool. 12:00: The Fremantle Prison (fremantleprison.com.au) is a dominant feature in town. There are different tours you can take, varying from the Doing Time Tour, the Great Escapes Tour, Torchlight Tours and last but not least, The Tunnels Tour. Only taking a quick look? The Prison Gallery, gift shop and Convict caf are free of charge. 14:00: Ginos (ginoscafe.com.au) is Fremantles most famous caf, attracting both locals and visitors. Ginos is known for its delicious coffee, but it also has a good lunch menu, including focaccias, paninis, bagels and wraps. 15:00: Coffee buzz? Good! Lets go for a walk. You can pick up some trail cards at the visitor centre or the library (or check fremantletrails.com.au) and choose from the eleven self-guided walking tours. 18:00: About time for a Perth staple fi sh and chips at Cicerellos (cicerellos.com.au). Youre never too old to be fascinated by aquariums and this restaurant has quite a few. Hint: dont forget to check the toilets. 20:30: Unwind and grab a beer at Norfolk Hotel (norfolkhotel.com.au). Its a refreshing place for an ale and most nights they have gigs in their basement. 21:30: Dont lose your mojo at Mojos (mojosbar.com.au), especially not on a Monday night. Its open mic night after all! Dont worry, you can just chill in the beer garden too. The small venue hosts local and national bands. Dont forget to bring your dancing shoes.

Touring the historic Fremantle Prison

The Perth Mint gives visitors the opportunity to share in the splendour

of pure gold through its unique combination of dazzling attractions.

See the largest coin in the world, weighing a record breaking one tonne of pure gold.

Watch as 200 ounces of pure molten gold is poured to form a gleaming, solid gold bar.

Handle more than $700,000 worth of pure gold bullion.

Purchase unique treasures from The Perth Mint Shop including exquisite Kailis Jewellery and Argyle Pink Diamonds.

Tax free sales available.

The Perth Mint precious metals, precious memories.

Open 7 days 9am - 5pm 310 Hay Street, East Perth WA 6004

Telephone 1300 366 520 www.perthmint.com.au/visit

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MUGGLER SWALLOWS 220 DIAMONDSSOUTH AFRICA

A suspected smuggler swallowed 220 diamonds worth 1.4m before a fl ight from Johannesburg to Dubai.

The unnamed Lebanese man, 25, was stopped at O.R. Tambo International Airport, and given laxatives to fl ush the valuable stones out of his system.

Spokesman Paul Ramaloko said: Our offi cers were tipped off about his activities and detained him at the airport. He was then taken for examination and we found around 220 pieces of diamond inside him.

The suspect was detained by the elite Hawks investigations unit and is due to appear before a magistrate on Thursday.

BREACHING WHALE LANDS ON BOATSOUTH AFRICA

Three men were injured after a breaching whale leapt out of the sea off South Africa, landing on their boat.

The vessel was motoring slowly about 1km off Port Elizabeth when the mammal crashed into it.

The boat and all three men went under the water as the whale

sunk back into the sea, Ian Grey, National Sea

Rescue Institute Port Elizabeth station commander, said. The victims were rescued and taken to hospital. One, a 41-year-old man, was seriously hurt, with suspected rib fractures and injuries to his arm, leg and soft tissue.

While the species of whale is unknown, Grey said breaching humpback whales have been spotted in the area.

In 2010, a couple whale-watching in waters off Cape Town got a shock when a southern right whale jumped out of the water, snapping the mast on their boat.

South Africa is on the humpbacks migratory route, with the ocean giants returning to Antarctic waters toward the end of the year.

50 SHADES OF DIVORCEUNITED KINGDOM

A woman has fi led for divorce after her husband refused to recreate scenes from racy, novel Fifty Shades Of Grey.

The 41-year-old banker, who earns 400,000 a year, wanted to spice up their love life after buying the book.

However, her husband wasnt up for it, so the woman fi led for divorce. Lawyer Amanda McAlister said the couples sex life had deteriorated: She told him he had a boring attitude to sex and she was fed up.

The husbands lack of adventure and unreasonable behaviour counts as one of the fi ve grounds for divorce.

Smelly haul: digested gems

Naked ambition: Contestants in the Body Art Fashion bare all during the NZ Trotting Cup Day at Addington Raceway, Christchurch, New Zealand

40 TNTDOWNUNDER.COM

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QUOTE OF THE WEEK

2368FAR OUT, MAN. NZ TO LEGALISE WEED?NEW ZEALAND

Kiwis could soon be left to toke in peace as cannabis campaigners urge the government to relax weed laws.

They want Northland to trial marijuana liberalisation to increase tourism after US states Colorado and Washington voted to legalise the drug.

A new website, conversation.org.nz, has been spreading on social media, urging Kiwis to have their say.

A National Organisation For The Reform Of Marijuana Laws spokesman said: Northland, which is the cannabis capital of New Zealand, could vie for the opportunity to be the fi rst in the trial.

ADELAIDE TO KEEP JEEP ON STICKAUSTRALIA

Paris has the Eiffel Tower, New York has the Statue Of Liberty, and Adelaide has ... a Jeep on a stick.

And the four-wheel-drive, placed on top of a 12-metre pole by a Jeep franchise, has been allowed to stay.

Planning Minister John Rau said in a tongue-in-cheek comment made in parliament had become such a talking point with customers he was considering putting other cars on the stick.

It appears this innovative form of marketing may well become a distinctive feature of Adelaides inner north, he said

SCHOOL BANS PUPILS FROM HUGGINGNEW ZEALAND

Students at an intermediate school spent so long hugging during breaks they were late for classes, so the practice has been banned.

Takapuna staff told pupils embracing each other should be kept to a minimum and outside school hours.

Principal Sue Cattell said: It got out of hand towards the end of morning teatime. There would be groups back to class 10 to 15 minutes late because they were making sure theyd hugged the whole group before they got back to class.

Parent Lorna Subritsk said: Its like using a sledgehammer to squash an ant. I thought it was pretty bizarre..

Number of addicts rounded up as police targeted Rios biggest open-air crack market in pre-Olympic clean-up

Weight, in stone, lost by Janice Rodgers, 46, from Manchester, who was hyp-notised into believing she had a gastric band

Likes on Facebook Evelyn and Remi Urbano got after their dad promised them a cat for their US home if their photo attracted 1,000

Species of bacteria 1458 of which may be new to science found after American researchers studied bellybuttons

THIS WEEKIN NUMBERS

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etty

Legal weed? Sweet as, bro

Outlawed: hugging

I dont think being an idiot is against the law. Thats what it comes down toRicky Gervais defends freedom of speech on Twitter

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OUR VIEW

Oh Melissa, you know that you and H&A belong togetherShould Melissa George be allowed to clip the Angel wings?

They say you shouldnt bite the hand that feeds you, even if that hand does belong to Alf Stewart. Melissa George, who you might remember as Angel from Home and Away, returned home last week and was doing her very best to shed her past. She launched a tirade on the Australian media when a breakfast show host had the audacity to reference her braided-hair character from Summer Bay.

Although she was in town to promote her new BBC TV show, Hunted, the station thought shed be best referenced by a montage of Angel (were not sure if it was the scene where she is carried down the aisle by her high school principal who was also her Dad) but whatever it was, it was Nineties footage, so it was guaranteed to be tacky as all hell. Anyway, here is what George had to say on the introduction:

Right behind my head was [sic] pictures of Angel and on the montage they called me Home & Away actress Melissa George. Now its because its Channel Seven so my next call will be to Home & Away to ask them to pay me because nobody does more promotion for that fucking show than me.

And before you can say fl amin galah, George continued her rant, so full of hyperbole and self-righteousness that the producers of the breakfast show actually thought she was playing out some sort of elaborate prank.

Id rather be having a croissant in Paris or walking my French bulldog in New York City, she said. Im not going to be a good Aussie anymore. Im going to speak out. Ive just had it. Its disgusting. Ive never spoken out about it because I have to be the loyal good Aussie who goes away and comes home but Im really hard-working and people have to respect me for what Ive done.

And if you dont believe in karma, check this: it has just been announced that her spy drama has been canned after one series by the BBC. Enjoy your French pastries in hell, George.

NAME THEM, SHAME THEM, PLACARD THEM

Its an old-fashioned punishment (and one that has no proven merit), but public shaming is still alive and kicking in the US.

A 32-year-old woman from Cleveland was c