times of india sunday 10th oct 2010 poetry in stone

1
TIMES CITY SUNDAY TIMES OF INDIA, CHENNAI 2 OCTOBER 10, 2010 CMYK N e e n u I t t y e r a h H aving grown up with a mortal fear of mathematics and physics, I al- ways sank to my knees when a physicist, mathematician or engineer passed me by. I was convinced that the reason why these subjects induced trepi- dation and torpor in me was because I had judgmental teachers, a genetic disinclina- tion for the sciences, and in- adequate cuddling during my growing years. I was therefore surprised when I read on the net that the Duke University Talent Identification pro- gramme had discovered that boys had higher abilities in maths and scientific reason- ing while girls had higher abil- ities in verbal reasoning and writing skills. See, that ex- plains why women can argue their way out of any situation, while men can calculate (at the speed of light) whether there is anything to be gained in ar- guing at all. But jokes apart, what is it about these subjects? Why are thousands of kids tying them- selves up in reef knots to make it into engineering school? Do so many people really like en- gineering? Probably not. It’s just that we have to choose our careers at an age when all we care about is whether the peach fuzz on our chins will ever turn into John Abraham stubble or whether we should get that tattoo on the shoulder or the hip. You make this cru- cial decision at a time when you are pretty clueless and, sadly enough, your parents could be too. Most of us pre- sume that our kids should pur- sue the subjects he scores high marks in, forgetting that marks are often a reflection of com- prehension, and not interest. Many homes have witnessed complete meltdowns when an offspring who has been scor- ing 90% in physics announces that he wants to do a BA in his- tory. That is as bad as declar- ing that you plan to earn a liv- ing playing the harpsichord. If the parents go into acute shock it’s simply because they are scared witless that their child could end up as a 42-year- old who still needs an al- lowance. Fields such as medi- cine and engineering guaran- tee you jobs. This is because you can always count on peo- ple to live irresponsibly and keep your hospitals full, and we are always going to need better bridges, locomotives, and computers because chances are that we didn’t do a very good job on them in the first place. It takes time for a child to figure out what interests him or her, and we don’t give our children that time, probably because it’s not ours to give. Every year, millions of youngsters come bursting out of engineering, medical and management schools and snap up the jobs. Can we let our children flower slowly in the sun learn- ing sociology or political sci- ence, or deciding between ecol- ogy and the visual arts? But ‘Will they just keep flowering or will they eventually bear fruit?’ is an apprehension par- ents don’t want to have to face. I guess teenagers need to wake up and smell the coffee. It’s a tough world, and that guy who made it into engineering school is going to be driving a Honda Civic before you hail your next autorickshaw. So if that sight is going to upset you, then think again. It takes longer to be the best wildlife photographer than an engineer. Trying to get a tiger to pose for you, without be- coming its dinner, is actually easier than selling that pho- tograph to buy your own din- ner. Some soul searching re- garding career choices is worth it because getting paid to do something you love is as good as it gets. (The writer is a government official who lives in Thiru- vananthapuram) A touch of Bengal in Chennai S a n d h y a S o m a n | TNN T he ideas are from Singapore and Chennai, the planning done over the internet, pho- tographs taken in the Cauvery belt and the final product published in the virtual world. That’s the story of poetryinstone.in, a bilingual blog on south Indian temple architecture run by a group of professionals scattered across the globe. “We have no formal degrees in art,” says S Vijay Kumar, who runs the non-profit site. All the group has is a passion for ancient history, sculp- ture, and Tamil literature. “We were brought together by the lively narration in Kalki Krishna- murthy’s historical novel ‘Ponniyin Selvan’,” he says. After numerous discussions on the novel, Vijay start- ed writing about sculptures on a Tamil e-group. Drawn by his writ- ing, IT professional Thirumalai V asked Vijay to start a blog to reach out to more people. The site, designed by Thiru- malai, has text in both Tamil and English. “We mostly write about pil- lars, gopurams and other fringe structures,” says Vijay. The narration is simple, almost story-like, and supported by visu- als. “Our objective is to attract youngsters,” says Satheesh Kumar R, a Kuwait-based engineer, who chips in with technical expertise. “Vijay picks interesting anecdotes to keep the reader hooked. He uses props like key chains to show the relative size of a sculpture or a structure,” says Satheesh. The effect is quite dramatic at times. A post on ‘How Big is the Big Temple in Thanjavur?’ has a pho- tograph showing an elephant next to a traditional door guardian. The animal is dwarfed by the huge sculp- ture, bringing out the mammoth scale of the temple. Each post takes a few hours to 15 days to create, says IT professional Arvind V.“Once Vijay gets an idea, we discuss it over chat or mail,” says builder-scholar Sundhar Bharadwaj. Writer V Dhivakar, IT profes- sional Shriram Rajaram and in- dustrial photographer Ashok Kr- ishnaswamy are part of the core group. Once an idea is finalised, the research starts. The group finds time during hectic workdays to read tomes on art history. Photos are shot and complex points fine-tuned by seniors Dhivakar and Bharadwaj before the information is turned into a blog post. They don’t leave any stone un- turned to get what they want –– whether it means carrying a fellow volunteer on the shoulder to get a bet- ter shot of a sculpture or setting aside vacation plans with family to go scouting temple ruins in interior Tamil Nadu. The efforts have paid off, says Dhivakar. “We discuss old hymns and construction techniques daily,” he says. A post on a cave in Magalra- japuram got a comment from a Swiss national who sent a geo-tagged map of similar sites across India. Young readers not only post comments but also send in photographs of neigh- bourhood temples. Shriram says readers have start- ed looking at temples as more than just pilgrimage spots. “They are places where one can learn about engineering, architecture, mythol- ogy, history, and ancient ways of life,” he says. [email protected] Durga Puja Would Be Incomplete Without These Idolmakers Who Bring Clay From The Ganga D e v p a r n a A c h a r y a | TNN he auditorium is abuzz with ac- tivity. A few men decorate the en- trance with flowers while others put up signboards. Amidst the commotion, a group of men work in utter concentration. They paint the eyes of goddess Lakshmi, their eyes moving back and forth from the idol to the palate of colours. Jiban Krishna Pal and his team of sculptors have been coming from Hooghly in West Bengal to Chennai every year since 1994 to make idols for Durga puja. “An ac- quaintance referred me to the Ben- gal Association here,” says Jiban, who is busy at work in T Nagar. “I have been every year since then.” For three months every year, Chennai is home to sculptors like Jiban, who are brought down by the Bengali communi- ty in the city. “We want the idols to look authentic,” says Dr An- jan Chakraborty, president of the association. “Durga’s idol can’t be made with any mati (clay). You need Ganga’s mati or else it will crack,” says Jiban, adding that they bring 20 to 25 bags of it every year to fashion the idols. “Paint, hair, clothes — everything is brought from Kolkata,” he says. Not far away, Rinku and Deven Pal, idol-makers from Baghda, are hard at work. “Our father Kishori Mohan Pal first came to Chennai 30 years ago and we are continu- ing the tradition,” says Deven. “We were not ready to take on this order but the association mem- bers insisted and we have just a day to finish it,” he adds, before he goes back to shaping the fin- gers of the goddess. Making an idol takes about 15 days. “We start by shaping the idols with bamboo sticks and hay. Then they are given a clay coating and left to dry. A coat of clay is applied after a day or two,” says Jiban. According to him, this is the trickiest part. “We coat it with plas- ter of paris only if the shape is flawless,” he says. “And we pay great attention to the facial fea- tures — eyes, cheeks and nose — to ensure they are perfect,” he adds. Then the idols are painted. “Every goddess has a different colour. Kali can be only blue while Durga is always painted pink. Sim- ilarly, we have colours for Ganesh, Lakshmi and Saraswati,” says Rinku. The paints and dyes are made by the sculptors. “After all, it is for the goddess and her fami- ly,” they say, with reverence. The demand for idols has gone up in the last five years. “In 1994, the demand was only for a few idols. This year, I have made 30,” says Jiban, whose idols are sup- plied to Kalpakkam, Kolathur and Tiruchi. “My father, who is in Coimbatore, will visit Vellore and Tiruchi as the Bengali communi- ties have invited him,” says Rinku. Apart from the money they make, working on the idols is also a matter of great pride for these artisans. “When I first came here in 1994, I was learning to sculpt. Then there was the excitement and adrenaline rush in making the best idols,” says Jiban. “Now I am so sure of my strokes that I can paint the goddess’ eyes with my eyes closed.” Once the Durga idols are moved out of their sheds and into the various pandals across the city, these men are forgotten. But the goddess comes again next year, and so do the artisans. devparna.acharya@timesgroup Making career choices is difficult at an age when you are agonising over whether to get a tattoo T DESIGNS IN CLAY: An artisan gives final touches to a Lakshmi idol at Bengal Association office; (below left) Jiban Krishna Pal and Rinku Pal (second picture from right) have been coming down regularly during Durga puja as their traditional skills are sought after by the Bengali community here WINDOW TO THE PAST: Volunteers go on field trips to collect information THE DEMAND FOR IDOLS HAS GONE UP IN THE LAST FIVE YEARS. IN 1994, ONLY A FEW IDOLS WERE NEEDED. THIS YEAR, ARTISANS LIKE JIBAN KRISHNA PAL HAVE MADE 30. From pillar to post A group of professionals pursue their passion for ancient architecture through poetryinstone.in, a bilingual blog Pics: C Sueresh Kumar Finding your place in the sun with clarity Varghese Kallada know of are in medical college, and more than 40 doing engineering cours- es. Dharavi is inclusive and cosmopoli- tan, home to the poor and the better- off , and most people are self-employed. Dharavi stands as testimony to the sweat and toil of the poor and the pul- sating energy of entrepreneurs. This is not a tale of despair and humiliation. It is an inspiring sto ry of poor people who have risen through grit and determination, seizing urban opportunities. It’ s another matte r that the government has been woefully remiss in providing infrastructure and social services. But these are govern- ment failures everywhere , not just in slums. In the 1 9th centur Charles Dickens painted horrendous pictures of Londons slums, and America n writers bemoaned the slums of New York. These writers failed to see that the fun- dament al dynamism of slums would in time convert shanty-towns into prize real estate. Many Indians make the same mista ke about our own slums. Some prefer the Chinese route of bull- dozing slums and forcing migrants to return to villages. But I agree with SPARC that slum redevelopment must be done in democratic consultation with slumdwellers. The government has failed to do much to uplift the poor , but slums have done so. Land reforms have failed wide- ly to legally distribute land to the poor. But by si mply allowing and often l egal- ising unauthorised encroachments, st ate governments have distributed land to millions of poor people. This is obviously far from ideal: efficient, benevolent governments would have done the job much better. But since governments are neither efficient nor benevolent, this is a way forward. The economist, Hernando de Soto, said the real problem of the poor was lack of l egal title to their unauthorised plots. Without title, they fear demolition, lack the confidence to build pukka structures, and cannot mortgage their land to get loans. But in India, democra- cy ensures that governments rarelyrarely demolish shanty towns; indeed they regularize many encroachments before every election. More land has been dis- tributed to the poor by governments through this route than through formal poverty alleviation schemes. I am oversimplifying, of course. Many slum-dwellers have been moved to new sites far from their workplaces. In other cases slums are controlled by mafia slumlords. Nevertheless, slums have been dynamos of preductivit social mobility and poverty reduction. So, by all means let us have structur- al reforms that yield better-governed , better-run cities. We need better roads, electricity and water supply. But if cities are to perform their critical function of social mobility we also need more slums like Dharavi. These should be improved, upgraded slums, but slums nevertheless. more slums. These are the entry points of the poor into urban havens of oppor- tuni ty. When urban land costs crores per plot, the poor can’t dream of buying land. Cities lack the funds for even basic facilities, let alone massive public housing. So, rura l migrants encroach on public land, creating shanty towns. These slums are eyesores: just looking at them makes urban folk shudder. Yet this should drive home to the elite how truly wretched rural India must be if poor people see more hope in filthy urban shanties than in the countryside. Many visitors think the slums of Kolkata are hell-holes. On the other hand, visitors are enthralled by the beauty of Naxalbari, full of green paddy fields , bamboo groves and ponds. Yet , i nvisible to the elite eye , conditions in Naxalban were horrendous enough to spark a massive Maoist uprising in 1967. Many poor folk from Naxalbari migrated to Kolkata: for them, its supposed hell- holes were refuges from rural oppres- sion and a path to prosperity. If we provide infrastructure to all small towns, many will become mag- net s for rural migrants. we must not have migration to metropolitan cities alone. Indeed, many large villages will turn into towns if only we provide them infrastructure. This will be urbanisation without migration. Some optimists think that the answer is to make rura l areas prosper- ous. This is escapism. India has 160 mil- lion hectares of cultivable land for 1 , 250 million people, one-eighth of a hectare acre per person. Even if the urban share of the population doubles from todays 30 per cent to 60 per cent, rural land availability will be just one-third of a hectare per person. This is a recipe for endless poverty, and cannot be fixed by endless subsidies. The rural poor know this and so migrate, but urban elites remain in denial. They want the poor to somehow remain rura l and not inundate their cities. That, to put it sim- ply, is both callous and escapist. some people see slums as hubs of sub-human existence and humiliation. But it is necessary to see beyond the surface filth. Dharavi in Mumbai has long been called the world’ s biggest slum, with six Iakh people crammed into 175 hectares of swamps. Far from being a hub of despair , it is now Mumbai’ s biggest industrial centre, humming with activi ty afte r all its famed textile mills have closed. Dharavi has 15, 000 one-roomed factories, pro- ducing $ 600 million of goods and serv- ices. FUTURE LAVASA CITIES m association ith THE TIMES OF INDIA SPARC , an NGO dealing with slums, describes Dharavi well. Here you will find an astonishingly wide range of eco- nomic activity — — from those who make idlis to potters to tanners to manufac- turers of airline cutlery and crockery. In Dbaravi , there is a place for everybody and there is always always work to be found. There are workers who make only Rs. 300 a month and there are a few few entre- preneurs who even earn Rs. 300, 000 a month. Today, 21 children of Dharavi we _______ W hat constitutes the perfect city? ______ Ii’ s easy to make ______ a list of utopian must- haves: electricity and water round the clock; __________ unpolluted air; plentiful road space for cars, bicy- cles and pedestrians; good educational and health facilities; lots of parks and museums. Those with an institutional mind-set will argue for elected mayors with strong t ax and administrative powers, giving them inde- pendence from callous st ate capitals. No matter how desirable, such utopian longings fail to place cities in the context of a poor , overwhelmingly rura l society. Cities must not be elite islands in a rural sea of despond. They must provide income and social ladders for the poor and unskilled to climb up. Cities must be havens of opportunity for those without opportunity in rura l and tribal settings. This has an implication that will make many blanch — — we must have FUTURE LAVASA CITIES > Swaminathan S Anklesana Ai yar is known for his ability to demystify eco- n omics, and he does so mm ost effectively in his STOI column, SwarninomicsHe is the regular Bud get expert on Times Now and ET Now. Stephen Cohen of the Brookings Ins titution anointed him Indi a s leading economic journalist . He has been editor of The Economic Times and Financial Express , and was also the In dia correspondent of The Economist for two decades. He has frequentl y been a consultant to the World Bank and Asian IJevelopment Bank. A A TOl and LAVASA Special Feature This thought leadership series aims to present the views of thinkers and opinion makers on why India needs new cities. > URBAN LONGINGS - 10 No , Sir , slums are not j ust eyeso res Many large villages will turn into towns if only we provide them the infrastructure for job creation. But migration cannot be wished away either. And it is equally specious to think that the slums which grow as a result are hell-holes of despair. Dharavi is now Mumbai’s biggest industrial centre, humming with activity after all its famed textile mills have closed. It has 15, 000 one-roomed fa ctories, producing $ 600 million of goods and services. More important , it is inclusive and cosmopolitan. > Swam inathan S Ankles aria Aiyar more slums. These are the entry points

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TIMES CITYSUNDAY TIMES OF INDIA, CHENNAI

2 OCTOBER 10, 2010

CMYK

Neenu Ittyerah

Having grown upwith a mortal fearof mathematicsand physics, I al-

ways sank to my knees whena physicist, mathematician orengineer passed me by. I wasconvinced that the reason whythese subjects induced trepi-dation and torpor in me wasbecause I had judgmentalteachers, a genetic disinclina-tion for the sciences, and in-adequate cuddling during mygrowing years. I was thereforesurprised when I read on thenet that the Duke UniversityTalent Identification pro-gramme had discovered thatboys had higher abilities inmaths and scientific reason-ing while girls had higher abil-ities in verbal reasoning andwriting skills. See, that ex-plains why women can arguetheir way out of any situation,while men can calculate (at thespeed of light) whether thereis anything to be gained in ar-guing at all.

But jokes apart, what is itabout these subjects? Why arethousands of kids tying them-selves up in reef knots to makeit into engineering school? Doso many people really like en-gineering? Probably not. It’sjust that we have to choose ourcareers at an age when all wecare about is whether thepeach fuzz on our chins willever turn into John Abrahamstubble or whether we shouldget that tattoo on the shoulderor the hip. You make this cru-cial decision at a time whenyou are pretty clueless and,sadly enough, your parentscould be too. Most of us pre-sume that our kids should pur-sue the subjects he scores highmarks in, forgetting that marks

are often a reflection of com-prehension, and not interest.Many homes have witnessedcomplete meltdowns when anoffspring who has been scor-ing 90% in physics announcesthat he wants to do a BA in his-tory. That is as bad as declar-ing that you plan to earn a liv-ing playing the harpsichord.

If the parents go into acuteshock it’s simply because theyare scared witless that theirchild could end up as a 42-year-old who still needs an al-lowance. Fields such as medi-cine and engineering guaran-tee you jobs. This is becauseyou can always count on peo-ple to live irresponsibly andkeep your hospitals full, andwe are always going to needbetter bridges, locomotives, andcomputers because chances arethat we didn’t do a very goodjob on them in the first place.

It takes time for a child tofigure out what interests himor her, and we don’t give ourchildren that time, probablybecause it’s not ours to give.Every year, millions ofyoungsters come bursting outof engineering, medical andmanagement schools andsnap up the jobs.

Can we let our childrenflower slowly in the sun learn-ing sociology or political sci-ence, or deciding between ecol-ogy and the visual arts? But‘Will they just keep floweringor will they eventually bearfruit?’ is an apprehension par-ents don’t want to have to face.

I guess teenagers need towake up and smell the coffee.It’s a tough world, and that guywho made it into engineeringschool is going to be driving aHonda Civic before you hailyour next autorickshaw.

So if that sight is going toupset you, then think again.It takes longer to be the bestwildlife photographer than anengineer. Trying to get a tigerto pose for you, without be-coming its dinner, is actuallyeasier than selling that pho-tograph to buy your own din-ner. Some soul searching re-garding career choices isworth it because getting paidto do something you love is asgood as it gets.

(The writer is a governmentofficial who lives in Thiru-vananthapuram)

A touch of Bengal in Chennai

Sandhya Soman | TNN

The ideas are from Singaporeand Chennai, the planningdone over the internet, pho-

tographs taken in the Cauvery beltand the final product published inthe virtual world. That’s the story ofpoetryinstone.in, a bilingual blog onsouth Indian temple architecture runby a group of professionals scatteredacross the globe.

“We have no formal degrees inart,” says S Vijay Kumar, who runs

the non-profit site. All the group hasis a passion for ancient history, sculp-ture, and Tamil literature.

“We were brought together by thelively narration in Kalki Krishna-murthy’s historical novel ‘PonniyinSelvan’,” he says. After numerousdiscussions on the novel, Vijay start-ed writing about sculptures on aTamil e-group. Drawn by his writ-ing, IT professional Thirumalai Vasked Vijay to start a blog to reachout to more people.

The site, designed by Thiru-

malai, has text in both Tamil andEnglish. “We mostly write about pil-lars, gopurams and other fringestructures,” says Vijay.

The narration is simple, almoststory-like, and supported by visu-als. “Our objective is to attractyoungsters,” says Satheesh KumarR, a Kuwait-based engineer, whochips in with technical expertise.“Vijay picks interesting anecdotesto keep the reader hooked. He usesprops like key chains to show therelative size of a sculpture or astructure,” says Satheesh.

The effect is quite dramatic attimes. A post on ‘How Big is the BigTemple in Thanjavur?’ has a pho-tograph showing an elephant nextto a traditional door guardian. Theanimal is dwarfed by the huge sculp-ture, bringing out the mammothscale of the temple.

Each post takes a few hours to 15days to create, says IT professionalArvind V. “Once Vijay gets an idea,we discuss it over chat or mail,” saysbuilder-scholar Sundhar Bharadwaj.

Writer V Dhivakar, IT profes-sional Shriram Rajaram and in-

dustrial photographer Ashok Kr-ishnaswamy are part of the coregroup. Once an idea is finalised, theresearch starts. The group findstime during hectic workdays to readtomes on art history. Photos are shotand complex points fine-tuned byseniors Dhivakar and Bharadwajbefore the information is turnedinto a blog post.

They don’t leave any stone un-turned to get what they want ––whether it means carrying a fellowvolunteer on the shoulder to get a bet-ter shot of a sculpture or setting asidevacation plans with family to goscouting temple ruins in interiorTamil Nadu.

The efforts have paid off, saysDhivakar. “We discuss old hymns andconstruction techniques daily,” hesays. A post on a cave in Magalra-japuram got a comment from a Swissnational who sent a geo-tagged mapof similar sites across India. Youngreaders not only post comments butalso send in photographs of neigh-bourhood temples.

Shriram says readers have start-ed looking at temples as more thanjust pilgrimage spots. “They areplaces where one can learn aboutengineering, architecture, mythol-ogy, history, and ancient ways oflife,” he says.

[email protected]

Durga Puja Would Be Incomplete Without These Idolmakers Who Bring Clay From The GangaDevparna Acharya | TNN

he auditorium is abuzz with ac-tivity. A few men decorate the en-trance with flowers while othersput up signboards. Amidst thecommotion, a group of men workin utter concentration. They paintthe eyes of goddess Lakshmi, theireyes moving back and forth fromthe idol to the palate of colours.

Jiban Krishna Pal and his teamof sculptors have been comingfrom Hooghly in West Bengal toChennai every year since 1994 tomake idols for Durga puja. “An ac-quaintance referred me to the Ben-gal Association here,” says Jiban,who is busy at work in T Nagar. “Ihave been every year since then.”

For three months every year,Chennai is home to sculptors

like Jiban, who are broughtdown by the Bengali communi-ty in the city. “We want the idolsto look authentic,” says Dr An-jan Chakraborty, president ofthe association.

“Durga’s idol can’t be madewith any mati (clay). You needGanga’s mati or else it will crack,”says Jiban, adding that they bring20 to 25 bags of it every year tofashion the idols. “Paint, hair,clothes — everything is broughtfrom Kolkata,” he says.

Not far away, Rinku and DevenPal, idol-makers from Baghda, arehard at work. “Our father Kishori

Mohan Pal first came to Chennai30 years ago and we are continu-ing the tradition,” says Deven.“We were not ready to take on thisorder but the association mem-bers insisted and we have just aday to finish it,” he adds, beforehe goes back to shaping the fin-gers of the goddess.

Making an idol takes about 15days. “We start by shaping the idolswith bamboo sticks and hay. Thenthey are given a clay coating andleft to dry. A coat of clay is appliedafter a day or two,” says Jiban.

According to him, this is thetrickiest part. “We coat it with plas-ter of paris only if the shape isflawless,” he says. “And we paygreat attention to the facial fea-tures — eyes, cheeks and nose —to ensure they are perfect,” headds. Then the idols are painted.

“Every goddess has a differentcolour. Kali can be only blue whileDurga is always painted pink. Sim-ilarly, we have colours for Ganesh,Lakshmi and Saraswati,” saysRinku. The paints and dyes aremade by the sculptors. “After all,

it is for the goddess and her fami-ly,” they say, with reverence.

The demand for idols has goneup in the last five years. “In 1994,the demand was only for a fewidols. This year, I have made 30,”says Jiban, whose idols are sup-plied to Kalpakkam, Kolathur andTiruchi. “My father, who is inCoimbatore, will visit Vellore andTiruchi as the Bengali communi-ties have invited him,” says Rinku.

Apart from the money theymake, working on the idols is alsoa matter of great pride for these

artisans. “When I first came herein 1994, I was learning to sculpt.Then there was the excitementand adrenaline rush in makingthe best idols,” says Jiban. “NowI am so sure of my strokes that Ican paint the goddess’ eyes withmy eyes closed.”

Once the Durga idols aremoved out of their sheds and intothe various pandals across the city,these men are forgotten. But thegoddess comes again next year,and so do the artisans.

devparna.acharya@timesgroup

Making careerchoices isdifficult at anage when youare agonisingover whether to get a tattoo

T

DESIGNS IN CLAY: An artisan gives final touches to a Lakshmi idol at Bengal Association office; (below left) Jiban Krishna Pal and Rinku Pal (secondpicture from right) have been coming down regularly during Durga puja as their traditional skills are sought after by the Bengali community here

WINDOW TO THE PAST: Volunteers go on field trips to collect information

THE DEMAND FOR IDOLS HAS GONEUP IN THE LAST FIVE YEARS. IN 1994,ONLY A FEW IDOLS WERE NEEDED.THIS YEAR, ARTISANS LIKE JIBANKRISHNA PAL HAVE MADE 30.

From pillarto postA group of professionals pursue theirpassion for ancient architecture throughpoetryinstone.in, a bilingual blog

Pics: C Sueresh Kumar

Finding yourplace in the

sun with clarity

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know of are in medical college, andmore than 40 doing engineering cours-es. Dharavi is inclusive and cosmopoli-tan, home to the poor and the better-off, and most people are self-employed.Dharavi stands as testimony to thesweat and toil of the poor and the pul-sating energy of entrepreneurs.”

This is not a tale of despair andhumiliation. It is an inspiring story ofpoor people who have risen throughgrit and determination, seizing urbanopportunities. It’s another matter thatthe government has been woefullyremiss in providing infrastructure andsocial services. But these are govern-ment failures everywhere, not just inslums.

In the 19th centur Charles Dickenspainted horrendous pictures ofLondon’s slums, and American writersbemoaned the slums of New York.These writers failed to see that the fun-damental dynamism of slums would intime convert shanty-towns into prizereal estate. Many Indians make thesame mistake about our own slums.Some prefer the Chinese route of bull-dozing slums and forcing migrants toreturn to villages. But I agree withSPARC that slum redevelopment mustbe done in democratic consultationwith slumdwellers.

The government has failed to domuch to uplift the poor, but slums havedone so. Land reforms have failed wide-ly to legally distribute land to the poor.But by simply allowing and often legal-ising unauthorised encroachments,state governments have distributedland to millions of poor people. This isobviously far from ideal: efficient,benevolent governments would havedone the job much better. But sincegovernments are neither efficient norbenevolent, this is a way forward.

The economist, Hernando de Soto,said the real problem of the poor was

lack of legal title to their unauthorisedplots. Without title, they fear demolition,lack the confidence to build pukkastructures, and cannot mortgage theirland to get loans. But in India, democra-cy ensures that governments rarelyrarelydemolish shanty towns; indeed theyregularize many encroachments beforeevery election. More land has been dis-tributed to the poor by governmentsthrough this route than through formalpoverty alleviation schemes.

I am oversimplifying, of course. Manyslum-dwellers have been moved to newsites far from their workplaces. In othercases slums are controlled by mafiaslumlords. Nevertheless, slums havebeen dynamos of preductivit socialmobility and poverty reduction.

So, by all means let us have structur-al reforms that yield better-governed,better-run cities. We need better roads,electricity and water supply. But if citiesare to perform their critical function ofsocial mobility we also need moreslums like Dharavi. These should beimproved, upgraded slums, but slumsnevertheless.

more slums. These are the entry pointsof the poor into urban havens of oppor-tunity. When urban land costs croresper plot, the poor can’t dream of buyingland. Cities lack the funds for evenbasic facilities, let alone massive publichousing. So, rural migrants encroach onpublic land, creating shanty towns.These slums are eyesores: just lookingat them makes urban folk shudder. Yetthis should drive home to the elite howtruly wretched rural India must be ifpoor people see more hope in filthyurban shanties than in the countryside.

Many visitors think the slums ofKolkata are hell-holes. On the otherhand, visitors are enthralled by thebeauty of Naxalbari, full of green paddyfields, bamboo groves and ponds. Yet,invisible to the elite eye, conditions inNaxalban were horrendous enough tospark a massive Maoist uprising in 1967.Many poor folk from Naxalbari migratedto Kolkata: for them, its supposed hell-holes were refuges from rural oppres-sion and a path to prosperity.

If we provide infrastructure to allsmall towns, many will become mag-nets for rural migrants. we must not

have migration to metropolitan citiesalone. Indeed, many large villages willturn into towns if only we provide theminfrastructure. This will be urbanisationwithout migration.

Some optimists think that theanswer is to make rural areas prosper-ous. This is escapism. India has 160 mil-lion hectares of cultivable land for 1,250million people, one-eighth of a hectareacre per person. Even if the urbanshare of the population doubles fromtoday’s 30 per cent to 60 per cent, ruralland availability will be just one-third ofa hectare per person. This is a recipefor endless poverty, and cannot be fixedby endless subsidies. The rural poorknow this and so migrate, but urbanelites remain in denial. They want thepoor to somehow remain rural and notinundate their cities. That, to put it sim-ply, is both callous and escapist.

some people see slums as hubs ofsub-human existence and humiliation.But it is necessary to see beyond thesurface filth. Dharavi in Mumbai haslong been called the world’s biggestslum, with six Iakh people crammedinto 175 hectares of swamps. Far from

being a hub of despair, it is nowMumbai’s biggest industrial centre,humming with activity after all itsfamed textile mills have closed. Dharavihas 15,000 one-roomed factories, pro-ducing $ 600 million of goods and serv-ices.

FUTUREL A V A S A C I T I E Sm association �ith THE TIMES OF INDIA

SPARC, an NGO dealing with slums,describes Dharavi well. “Here you willfind an astonishingly wide range of eco-nomic activity — — from those who makeidlis to potters to tanners to manufac-turers of airline cutlery and crockery. InDbaravi, there is a place for everybodyand there is always always work to be found.There are workers who make only Rs.300 a month and there are a few few entre-preneurs who even earn Rs. 300,000 amonth. Today, 21 children of Dharavi we

_______ W

hat constitutes��� the perfect city?

______ Ii’s easy to make

______ a list of utopian must-haves: electricity andwater round the clock;

__________

unpolluted air; plentifulroad space for cars, bicy-cles and pedestrians; good

educational and health facilities; lots ofparks and museums. Those with aninstitutional mind-set will argue forelected mayors with strong tax andadministrative powers, giving them inde-pendence from callous state capitals.

No matter how desirable, suchutopian longings fail to place cities inthe context of a poor, overwhelminglyrural society. Cities must not be eliteislands in a rural sea of despond. Theymust provide income and social laddersfor the poor and unskilled to climb up.Cities must be havens of opportunityfor those without opportunity in ruraland tribal settings.

This has an implication that willmake many blanch — — we must have

FUTUREL A V A S A C I T I E S

> Swaminathan S Anklesana Aiyar isknown for his ability to demystify eco-nomics, and he does so mmost effectivelyin his STOI column, Swarninomics’ He isthe regular Budget expert on Times Nowand ET Now. Stephen Cohen of theBrookings Institution anointed him‘India’s leading economic journalist’. Hehas been editor of The Economic Timesand Financial Express, and was also theIndia correspondent of The Economist fortwo decades. He has frequently been aconsultant to the World Bank and AsianIJevelopment Bank.

A A TOl and LAVASA Special FeatureThis thought leadership series aims to

present the views of thinkers and opinionmakers on why India needs new cities.

> URBAN LONGINGS - 10

No, Sir, slums arenot j ust eyesoresMany large villages will turn into towns if only we provide them theinfrastructure for job creation. But migration cannot be wished away either.And it is equally specious to think that the slums which grow as a result arehell-holes of despair. Dharavi is now Mumbai’s biggest industrial centre,humming with activity after all its famed textile mills have closed. It has15,000 one-roomed factories, producing $ 600 million of goods andservices. More important, it is inclusive and cosmopolitan.

> Swam inathan S Ankles aria Aiyar more slums. These are the entry points