Thoroughly Modern Kittyby AnneLise Wilhelmsen

T iny Kitty will be a vision in T iny Kitty will be a vision in T this beaded Edwardian evening T this beaded Edwardian evening T gown, inspired by an antique T gown, inspired by an antique Tgown which was part of this year’s Special Exhibits at the annual convention. Keep in mind, the construction methods are modern since Kitty is a modern girl who’s simply enjoying a moment of “dress-up”. Since we’re not costuming an antique (or antique reproduction) doll there’s no need to use Edwardian sewing techniques for her dress.

Enjoy trying different combinations of fabric and lace, as well as being creative with belts and headbands. Tiny Kitty is a true fashionista and will love every gown you sew!

1. From main fabric cut one bodice and two overskirts.

2. From second fabric cut one bodice lining and one underskirt.

3. On bodice, machine stitch along underarm (1/4”) and shoulder (1/8”) seam lines. Clip to corners and turn to inside along stitching lines. Hand baste in place. Press. Repeat for bodice lining.

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4. With right sides together, pin bodice to bodice lining at center back and neck edges. Begin stitching at the lower center back edge of the doll’s right back, using a 1/8” seam allowance. Stop 1/4” from the neck edge and pivot. Stitch around entire neck edge using a 1/4” seam allowance and pivoting at each corner. Stop when you are 3/8” from the center back. Pivot, and then continue down the fi nal center back edge using a 3/8” seam allowance.

5. Trim all seam allowances to 1/8” and clip corners. Turn to right side and press.

6. Cut two pieces of lace for your sleeves, using the cutting guide provided with the patterns. Finish each of the four raw edges. (This is easily accomplished by laying the lace on top of some tissue paper and using a narrow zigzag stitch).

7. Match shoulder edge of bodice to lining and pin together. Top stitch close to the edge but do not continue past the folded underarm edges. Press.

8. Tuck lace sleeves between the bodice and the lining at underarms as shown, having raw edges of lace 1/4” in from fi nished edges of bodice and lining. Pin in place.

9. Using tiny, even stitches sew through all thicknesses of the underarms (trapping lace in between the layers). At shoulder, lace will not be between the layers but should be fl ush with the fi nished edge. Tack lace securely to the fi nished shoulder edge. Press.

10. Run long gathering threads between points indicated on the pattern for the bodice front and backs, just at the fi nished neck edges and then 1/8” below as shown.

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11. With right sides together, pin bodice front to backs at underarm and side seams. Using a 1/4” seam allowance, stitch from the wrist edge of the sleeve, curving your stitching line at the underarm, then continue down the side seam. Clip curves as necessary and press. Finish bodice seam allowances.

12. There are three sections to gather on the bodice. Working from the inside for each section, choose an end and pull the threads through from the front and tie off securely with a square knot. Pull the front threads through to the back for the remaining end of each section.

13. Pull up gathering threads on one back section until it measures 1/2”. Tie off and run threads between layers before clipping. Repeat for remaining back section. Repeat for the front, pulling up until the whole section is 1 1/4” wide and tying off same as for back. Set bodice aside.

14. Finish center back edges of underskirt and overskirt sections.

15. Cut a piece of insertion lace 7” long. Match the center of the lace to the center front of your underskirt and pin in place from the upper edge to the lower edge as shown. Hand baste in place and check that it hangs straight from the waistline. Tack lace in place along each long edge. Press.

16. With right sides together, stitch the center back seam of the underskirt from the marked point to the lower edge. Press seam allowance towards doll’s left side.

17. Repeat for overskirt, but press seam allowance open fl at, continuing the pressing above the stitching line as well.

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18. On front and lower edges of overskirt, turn in 1/4” and a second 1/4” and hand baste in place right at the edge. Keep this line of stitching as straight as possible, since this will be your guide for beading. When you get to the corners, miter them as shown. Press.

19. Match wrong side of overskirt to right side of underskirt at waist edge, having front edges of overskirt at marks. Hand baste in place. (Match center back seam lines as shown before basting).

22. Turn up lower edge of underskirt 1/4” plus a second 1/4” and hem in place. Press.

23. Tack narrow lace edging over bust line, turning in raw edges at center back. Attach beads as desired, to lace and as fringe.

24. Add beaded fringe to bottoms of sleeves as desired.25. From right side of overskirt, stitch a line of beads through

all thicknesses, just to the inside of your basting, to hold hems in place. Use a pattern to match your design for the fringes.

26. Create a beaded fringe at lower edge of overskirt. Repeat for center lace area of underskirt.

27. In order to keep the beading from causing the overskirt to pull away from the center front, measure up one inch from the lower edge as shown and tack overskirt to underskirt with a tiny stitch (take the stitch over the stitching for the front beading, hiding it behind the beads).

28. Create back closures using hooks and thread loops.29. Kitty’s dress is meant to be loose fi tting before belting.

Your belt can be a simple ribbon tied in a bow at the waist, or a more elaborate creation. Use your belt to fi t the dress to the doll, then arrange the excess fabric evenly around her waist.

30. Kitty’s headband is simply a second piece of ribbon tied into a bow, with a feather tucked behind.

20. Run long gathering threads 1/8” and 3/16” from the waist edge of your bodice, starting and stopping 1/2” from center back edges.

21. With right sides together, pin bodice to skirt at waist, having the fi nished raw edge of the underskirt even with the fi nished edge of the bodice on the doll’s right side (overskirt edge will not be even with the bodice edge). On the doll’s left side, the pressed edges of the underskirt and overskirt should both be even with the fi nished edge of the bodice. Pull bodice gathers up to fi t skirt, adjust evenly, and pin in place. Stitch using a 1/4” seam allowance. Press seam allowance towards bodice and fi nish raw edges.

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RequirementsTissue Silk or Voile (Main Color) - 16” W, 8” L

Tissue Silk or Voile (Lining & Underskirt) - 16” W, 8” LWide Lace Edging (for Sleeves) - 2” W, 6” L

Insertion Lace (for Underskirt) - 1 1/4” W, 7” LNarrow Lace Edging (for Bodice) - 3/8” W, 7” LRibbon (for Belt & Headband) - 3/8” W, 15” L

Beads as Desired for Embellishment and Feather for Headband

Tiny Hooks for Closure

Lace CuttingGuide

Lace CuttingGuide

Lace Cutting

For SleevesGuide

For SleevesGuide

Underskirt

Pattern by AnneLise Wilhelmsen

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Overskirt

Bodice & LiningBodice & Lining

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