Issue #95October 25th 2017

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Modern jewels, modern joys

pg. 5

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Calvin Klein confirms MarchonRenewal for licensing

agreement that began

in 1992

Interesting focus on consumers in the main European countries

The sixth edition of OMO

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| Issue #95 | October 25th 2017

The research surveyed buying habits for sun and optical eyeglasses as well as current trends in France, Italy, Spain, United Kingdom and Germany.

The half-yearly edition of OMO-Optical Monitor, the research commissioned jointly by MIDO and Silmo and carried out by GfK, was presented in Paris at the beginning of October. This combined initiative was strongly recommended by the two past presidents and will continue for the next two years under the aegis of the current presidents: Giovanni Vitaloni (MIDO) and Amélie Morel (Silmo).This updating was developed also with the aim of providing sector operators with an outline of consumers in the main European countries (France, Italy, Spain, United Kingdom, Germany) and the current trends in the sector.In Europe there has been moderate growth in gross domestic product accompanied by a positive mood among consumers. In this context, consumers are having increasingly interactive experiences and mobile devices have become the recognized catalysts behind buying. The result is an increasingly complex shopping experience.In our sector we are seeing a slight increase in online buying in all countries except Germany. Independent opticians and chains are still the cornerstones of buying.

Optical eyeglasses Stores are the most important sources of information about optical eyeglasses; but opticians’ retail websites are the most used digital sources and advice from friends, acquaintances and family member also plays a key role. Opticians are reputed to be vision wellbeing professionals, especially in the United Kingdom. The other good news is that buying frequency has not changed.The preferred materials are plastic and metal (Germans prefer the former but in Italy the opposite is the case). Even though full-rim eyeglasses are the most popular in all five countries, there has been a slight increase in the purchase of rimless eyewear.As to design, square frames are the preference, especially by Spanish men. Round eyeglasses are bought by 1 person in 5 in the countries surveyed, except Germany where the figure is 3 in 10.

Sunglasses The market is going through a good period and consumers are buying more than in the past, especially in Germany. Damage to lenses or frames is the most important reason for buying a new pair of sunglasses. In Italy attention to design is always strong.Square eyeglasses are the most popular, followed closely by round eyewear (chosen primarily by women) and aviators (the favorites with men). In general, full frames dominate; the only country that goes against this trend is Italy, where last summer there was a boom in sunglasses with lenses that covered the entire front and which consumers perceive as being rimless.Stores are the most important sources of information; friends, acquaintances and family members are frequently asked for advice. The most used sources of online information are the internet in general and the websites of opticians and brands in particular.In all five countries there has been an overall increase in online purchases of sunglasses. The best prices and discounts are the main reasons for buying by those who choose the Internet; but there is also an increase in some factors that should not be underestimated as they make a difference in the experience. An example is delivery.

Future trendsThe best price will be the most important reason for buying online in the future, followed by home delivery and online discounts. However, it should be noted that buyer attention span, like the time available, is falling sharply, so the online buying experience should be fast and easy to complete.The trump card for stores will be understanding future buyers and anticipating trends, starting from the axiom that for hyper-connected consumers the shopping experience has more value than possession.

The results of the next OMO research will be presented February 25, 2018, at MIDO.

The sixth edition of OMO

33© GfK | OMO Optical Monitor Wave 6 SILMO 2017 – Simone Cornelsen, Giampaolo Falconio

My optician offers products at appropriate prices.

My optician offers an enjoyable shopping experience.

My optician has appropriate opening hours.

My optician offers the latest product available.

My optician contacts me after the purchase in order to control my equipment and adaptation.

My optician proposes payment facilities (e.g. paying by instalments).

My optician has a children’s corner.

Q14c: To what extent is each of the following services important to you, when you shop for optical products in shops. Please rate according to a scale from 1 to 5, with 1 means: “not important at all” and 5 means: “very important”

Expectation towards optical servicesOwner of sunglasses in %; T2B

SE

RV

ICE

0% 20% 40% 60% 80% 100%

Francen= 577

Italyn= 821

Spainn= 798

UKn= 552

Germanyn= 647

The most important service aspects for sunglasses are an appropriate price and an enjoyable shopping experience. The offer of the latest product available is more important for Italian purchaser than for people in other countries in the EU5.

All the information contained within this report belong to MIDO and SILMO and may not be republished in any form without written consent from MIDO and SILMO.

36© GfK | OMO Optical Monitor Wave 6 SILMO 2017 – Simone Cornelsen, Giampaolo Falconio

Experiences aremore important

than possessions

These hyper-connected Shoppers will only engage and shop if it provides them an experience

360°

Previous retailer experience was

important factor in my shopping decision46%

Globally

50%

Globally

Source: GfK Consumer Life. Source Picture: fashionadexplorer website, March 2017

All the information contained within this report belong to MIDO and SILMO and may not be republished in any form without written consent from MIDO and SILMO.

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| Issue #95 | October 25th 2017

E-SunTM Kolor UpTM project: the winnersAs we announced in previous issues, Essilor Sun Solution and the IED-Istituto Europeo di Design in Turin have started a collaboration aimed at funding a project for the development of a “concept frame”, a communication campaign and marketing tools based on E-SunTM Kolor UpTM, a brand and lens technology of the company.Selected from among numerous entries presented by the thirteen students in their final year of the Jewelry and Accessories Design course (which also includes the Eyewear Design course), the three winning projects from IED were: First Prize to Denise Tatiana D’Orazio for Cycle; Second Prize to Juliana Vergara Rodriguez for Bulle Magnetique; and Third Prize to Arianna Gambino for Fragmenta.The three best projects were the subject of an additional study by Graphic Design and Advertising Communication students, who produced the images for the communication campaign.

Marcolin: changes in its governanceGiovanni Zoppas has been appointed Marcolin Group’s Executive Vice Chairman in charge of some strategic areas: Licenses, International Affairs, Human Resources, Legal and Institutional Communication. In the meantime, Giovanni Zoppas has been nominated CEO of the joint venture between LVMH and Marcolin Group announced last January (editor's note: the name of the new company is Thelios). The goal of these changes is to ensure the best possible results with

the alignment of interest of the different stakeholders. Marcolin Group’s CEO role will be covered by Massimo Renon, operating in Marcolin Group since January 2017 as Worldwide Commercial General Manager. Consistent with the spirit of these changes, Giovanni Zoppas will give Massimo Renon all the necessary support for his success in the new role.

Calvin Klein confirms Marchon

Marchon Eyewear and Calvin Klein have announced the long-term, multi-year renewal of a global eyewear licensing agreement.

It includes the design, development, manufacture and distribution of Calvin Klein sun and optical collections for the Calvin Klein 205W39NYC, Calvin Klein and Calvin Klein Jeans labels. The renewal coincided with the 25th anniversary of the first license agreement between the two companies signed in 1992.“We are incredibly proud to continue this long and successful collaboration with Calvin Klein and to be part of the exciting and reinvigorated brand under Raf Simons’ creative vision,” commented Nicola Zotta, president and CEO of Marchon Eyewear. “Our combined teams share an untiring commitment to excellence. We are convinced that we will continue to create innovative designs that will drive the Calvin Klein eyewear business even further.”

Massimo Renon

Giovanni Zoppas

Canali to make eyewear with L’Amy

L’Amy America, part of International Luxury Group, has entered into an exclusive multi-year license agreement with Canali to market and distribute a luxury collection of sunglasses and ophthalmic frames under the Canali brand. Canali is a known Italian brand specializing in luxury clothing for men.The new Canali sunglass and ophthalmic collections will preview at the MIDO Milan optical trade fair in 2018 by appointment only, and fully will be supported by a host of point-of-purchase materials including displays, lifestyle imagery, and product packaging. The eyewear collection will be made available in selected Canali boutiques and online on Canali.com as well as in carefully chosen high-level optical, department stores, and specialty eyewear stores around the globe in March, 2018.

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| Issue #95 | October 25th 2017

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ANFAO has announced the data for the eyewear industry relating to January-June of this year. The export figures for the first half-year of 2017 confirm the trend recorded in late 2016: that of a reduced growth in terms of numbers but, overall, stable, defined as “ordinary” compared to the previous three years, when double-digit export growth rates were recorded, marking historic records. The period from January to June 2017 has thus seen growth in the value of overall exports of Italian eyewear up by 3.6% on an annual basis. In more detail, the increase in value was 4.3% for frames and 3.2% for sunglasses. The domestic market, despite the hopes for a more concrete and convincing recovery, is still not outstanding in terms of performance and marks an increase in value of just one percentage point for both the eyewear segment (sunglasses+frames) and that of ophthalmic lenses, remaining essentially stable compared to the same period of the previous year.

Heidi Orlando Northeast Regional Sales Director WestGroupe USAShaleen Ratansi Marketing Director WestGroupe Jorg Reinhold CEO ic! berlinLaura Viscovich Vice President Corporate Communications Essilor

Vistatour 2017 organized by Commissione Difesa Vista Onlus began October 12 in Norcia, the city that is a symbol of post-earthquake reconstruction. Now at its fourth edition, Vistatour stopped off in Pescara, Giulianova and San Benedetto Del Tronto to provide free eyesight screenings for citizens – both adults and children – in areas affected by the severe earthquake of 2016. In their articulated truck opticians performed refraction and Amsler tests, while ophthalmologists assessed intraocular pressure, tone and the back of the eye to check for possible diseases. A note of the results that would be useful for more in-depth examinations was issued on completion of the screenings.

The 2017 edition of Vistatour

The “Lie féng in colours” project by Rosella Leanza has won the first edition of the Coco Song Award, the contest organised by Area98 in collaboration with Harim Accademia Euromediterranea to offer young talents in the world of design the opportunity to present their own take on the celebrated Coco Song collection. For her project, she drew inspiration from the art of ceramics, which reached stunning level of sophistication during the

Song dynasty, becoming one of the most emblematic facets of Chinese culture from the period. The unveiling of the winner was followed by a selection processes whereby prototypes made by the five final finalists were evaluated on the basis of their degree of uniqueness, wearability and marketability, as well as for their alignment with the brand’s target market and the overall quality of the frames, from design to production.

Giovanni Vitaloni, President of ANFAO and MIDO

First half-year of the Italian eyewear industry

Rossella Leanza wins the Coco Song Award

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Design, fashion & lifestyle

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This year, the Archmarathon Awards, the international architecture event held in Miami mid-October and now in its 4th edition, focused its attention on current architectural studies in the USA, Canada, and Central and Latin America. The Overall Winner for 2018 was the study by Rozana Montiel | Estudio de Arquitectura + Alin V. Wallach with Common Unit, a public space redevelopment project for a social housing unit. The reason given by the jury for its decision was the following: “the project solved the issue of segregation by transforming boundaries and barriers into opportunities for people to meet and into a good quality of life, creating a community building.”

| Issue #95 | October 25th 2017

The Lebole Active Wool collection’s new items are at the perfect crossroads between the classical world and textile tradition, and the sporting world and technological innovation. The Active Wool formal jacket and suit use CompAct technology, a new spinning system which makes the items crease-resistant, thermoregulating, breathable, naturally stretchable and comfortable in any situation.The suit’s inner lining is also of high quality, lined with Bemberg Cupro, a material prized for its breathable, thermoregulating, soft and lightweight properties, just like silk. Lightweight and elegant, resistant and comfortable, these new items combine the elegance of high quality tailoring with the comfort of technology.

Modern jewels, modern joys

Discovering CaravaggioMichelangelo Merisi, known as ‘Il Caravaggio’, is one of the most iconic and mysterious

painters in history, and Milan’s Palazzo Reale dedicates a major exhibition to him – called Dentro Caravaggio (Inside Caravaggio) – which is open until 28 January 2018.Merisi’s work was rediscovered and revered in the 20th century thanks to Roberto Lunghi’s studies, who in 1951 dedicated a landmark exhibition to him at Palazzo Reale. Now, after 66 years, Caravaggio returns to the palace with an exhibition which for the very first time brings together 20 of his masterpieces. Inside Caravaggio is a one-of-a-kind exhibition, displaying works from Italy’s major museums and from other equally important museums abroad to the public.

The thermoregulating, crease-resistant suit

A new collaboration between the accessories brand Maison 203 and award-winning designer Giulio Iacchetti has seen the light of day. The Bearing line presents a reinterpretation of the chic piece of jewellery par excellence: the string of pearls. The collection – comprising a necklace, a bracelet, two pairs of earrings and a ring – plays with the concept of pearl, based on experimenting around the motif of the mechanical joint. In this way, a smaller solid sphere is attached by a connecting piece to a second larger hollow sphere, with many diagonal cuts. From their interaction, a motion is developed which spreads to all the other spheres. In Bearing, the mechanical is brought together with the world of jewellery to create an astoundingly flexible pearl, which moulds to the body’s shapes and forms.

Architecture via Miami

© Roma, Sovrintendenza Capitolina ai Beni Culturali Ph. Giuseppe Schiavinotto, Roma