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THE ROUGH GUIDE to the music of

New Orleans

Ask any inhabitant of New Orleans, Louisiana and they will tell you that they are part of the ‘New Orleans Nation’ – a country in its own right. It’s a strong argument, and an anecdote that captures the independent and uniquely creative vibe of the great city so well.

Historically New Orleans was a major port, a circumstance largely responsible for creating the vibrant multi-cultural society the city boasts. Consider Afro-American, Latino, European Creole and Cajun influences, and then add in the sounds of Mardis Gras Indian music, and you start to get the picture that this city is quite simply like no other.

During the sixteenth century Africans, both slaves and free, and American Indians shared their cultures and amalgamated them with that of the European settlers. The emergent Creole culture was actively encouraged by the then French government, and it is this durable multi-faceted culture that distinguishes New Orleans from anywhere else in the world. This melting pot of cultures influenced the development of the city in every sphere; art, literature, food, architecture, language, fashion and of course music. The very diversity of the city can prove quite disorientating for a visitor to New Orleans. To try to unpick exactly the deeply intricate context attached to every cultural expression is an arduous task, it is much more beneficial (and fun) to simply embrace each rich musical gumbo in all its complicated glory.

Music is everywhere in New Orleans; it’s the lifeblood of the city and of the people. It pulses throughout the vibrant French Quarter (the heart of the city) during the day, and at night can be heard being performed by amazing street performers or wafting out of the many venues, bars and clubs dotted all over the city. Walk round any corner and you can come across a honking brass band, a melancholy blues guitarist, a percussionist playing an upturned plastic bin, energetic street dancers or thoughtful folk singers.

Check out the bars like DBA’s, The Spotted Cat, The Blue Nile or Snug Harbour on Frenchman Street, to see incredible live music in intimate venues on any night of the week. For the real taste of the hidden local New Orleans scene, search out the Candlelight Lounge on a Wednesday night where the Treme Brass Band play a weekly residency, or Vaughan’s where you can catch Kermit Ruffins every Thursday with a free barbecue. A visit to Tipitina’s is a must, I love this venue and it is well worth the trip even though it is slightly off the beaten track. Likewise Howlin’ Wolf’s, with the fairly recent addition of an annexe called The Den, is a great venue showcasing many national and international artists. The other must visit is The Maple Leaf Bar situated next to my favourite restaurant Jacques-Imo’s, possibly the best night out with guaranteed great food, drink, music and dancing. There you can catch great bands such as Papa Grows Funk at regular weekly sessions. Residencies are an

important part of the live music programme in New Orleans and can make the decisions of what you are going to see a lot easier, given the incredible choice you will face.

So let’s get to the compilation you are listening to, The Rough Guide to New Orleans. Compiling the album was indeed a nearly impossible task, but I have personally selected sixteen tracks that I think showcase well the history, diversity and uniqueness of the New Orleans contemporary scene. The music fuses jazz, Latin, soul, funk, hip-hop, Mardi Gras Indians and brass bands.

Kicking off with some rhythm ’n’ blues and funk, it just doesn’t get any better than Jessie Hill, The Meters and Earl King backed by The Meters, (what would the musical world be like if it wasn’t for The Meters?). Then we move straight on to the music of the Mardi Gras Indians. Mardi Gras is one of the most important and internationally recognised festivals in New Orleans, a city that has a festival for just about everything – even the tomato! Also heard on this Rough Guide is Big Chief Monk Boudreaux, a New Orleans legend who is still keeping the tradition alive with his inspiring performances, as are brother duo, James & Troy ‘Trombone Shorty’ Andrews. Brass bands and second line (a tradition in brass band parades in New Orleans) are represented by Kermit Ruffins, Papa Grows Funk, New Orleans Nightcrawlers and the Hot 8 Brass Band, who all deliver music sure

put you in the party mood. Two of my absolute favourite contemporary artists follow with the incredibly funky band Dumpstaphunk, and Jon Cleary who was born in England but bred in New Orleans. A Latino influence is represented by the incredible Los Hombres Calientes. In a city teeming with incredible pianists, this compilation features two of the most influential, Professor Longhair and Dr John. The album finishes off with a track by clarinettist Dr Michael White, a man whose whole life is dedicated to keeping the jazz tradition alive and well.

Hopefully this selection will have you hungry for more and inspire you to really get into some of the incredible artists that have come from New Orleans, and have influenced the whole world. So let me name check just a few you should investigate further; Louis Armstrong, Kid Ory, Sidney Bechet, Jelly Roll Morton, King Oliver, Dave Bartholomew, Fats Domino, Louis Prima, Huey ‘Piano’ Smith, Snooks Eaglin, Lonnie Johnson, Irma Thomas, The Preservation Hall Jazz Band, James Booker, The Wild Magnolias, The Neville Brothers, The Marsalis Family, Dirty Dozen Brass Band and the ReBirth Brass Band, - and that is just the tip of the iceberg!

New Orleans is one unique city with a rich heritage and a population that loves music, and are some of the happiest people I have ever had the pleasure of encountering. If you enjoy this compilation, make sure to visit New

Orleans yourself and, as they say ‘laissez le bon temps rouler!’ (let the good times roll)!

Questionnez tout habitant de la Nouvelle-Orléans, en Louisiane, et il vous dira qu’il fait partie de la New Orleans Nation (la «nation de la Nouvelle Orleans») - un pays de plein droit. La déclaration est forte et l’anecdote capte bien la vibration autonome et singulièrement créative de la grande ville. Historiquement, la Nouvelle-Orléans était un port important, une situation qui explique largement la société multiculturelle dynamique qui s’est formée dans la ville. Prenez des influences afro-américaines, latinos, créoles européennes et cajuns, ajoutez des sons de la musique des Indiens du Mardi Gras, et vous commencerez à comprendre pourquoi cette ville ne ressemble à aucune autre. Dès le XVIème siècle, les Africains (esclaves et hommes libres) et les Indiens d’Amérique ont partagé leurs cultures et les ont fusionnées avec celle des colons européens à la Nouvelle-Orléans. La culture créole émergente a été activement encouragée par le gouvernement français de l’époque, et distingue aujourd’hui la Nouvelle-Orléans, par son caractère durable et protéiforme. Ce melting-pot de cultures a influencé le développement de la ville dans tous les domaines: art, littérature,

nourriture, architecture, langue, mode et, bien sûr, musique. La diversité même de la ville peut s’avérer très déroutante pour le visiteur. Tenter de démêler les fils profondément complexes de chaque expression culturelle est une tâche ardue, il est beaucoup plus avantageux (et plus amusant) de saisir chaque gombo musical dans sa glorieuse richesse et complexité. La musique est partout à la Nouvelle Orléans - c’est l’élément vital de la ville et du peuple. Durant la journée, elle imprègne le quartier français (le centre, très animé, de la ville); la nuit, on peut l’entendre jouée par des artistes de rue étonnants ou flotter dans les nombreux lieux, bars et clubs qui parsèment la ville. A tout moment de votre promenade, vous pouvez rencontrer une vibrante fanfare, un guitariste de blues mélancolique, un percussionniste s’acharnant sur un bac en plastique renversé, des danseurs de rue énergétiques ou des chanteurs de folk délicats. Entrez dans les bars - comme DBA, The Spotted Cat, The Blue Nile ou Snug Harbour sur Frenchman Street - pour goûter tous les soirs une musique live incroyable. Pour tester la scène locale cachée de la Nouvelle-Orléans, allez du côté du Candlelight Lounge, un mercredi soir: le Treme Brass Band y joue en résidence. Ou bien, rendez vous au Vaughan, où vous pouvez entendre Kermit Ruffins tous les jeudis, autour d’un barbecue gratuit. Une visite au Tipitina est un must:

j’aime ce lieu et il vaut bien le voyage, même s’il est un peu hors des sentiers battus. De même, Howlin ‘Wolf, avec l’ajout relativement récent d’une annexe (The Den), est un endroit idéal pour écouter de nombreux artistes nationaux et internationaux. L’autre must à visiter est le Maple Leaf Bar, situé à côté de mon restaurant préféré, Jacques-Imo - vous y passerez peut-être votre meilleure soirée, avec nourriture, boissons, musique et danse de qualité garanties. Là, vous pourrez entendre de grands groupes, tels que Papa Grows Funk, une fois par semaine. Les résidences sont une part importante de la musique live à la Nouvelle Orléans; elles peuvent vous aidez à choisir votre soirée, étant donné le choix incroyable existant. Passons maintenant à la compilation que vous écoutez, Le Rough Guide to New Orleans. Confronté à la tâche presqu’impossible de compiler cet album, j’ai personnellement choisi seize pistes dont j’estime qu’elles présentent bien l’histoire, la diversité et l’unicité de la scène contemporaine de la Nouvelle-Orléans. La musique opère la fusion du jazz, de la musique latine, de la soul, du funk, du hip-hop, des Indiens du Mardi Gras et des fanfares. Le coup d’envoi est donné avec quelques morceaux de rhythm and blues et de funk: rien de moins que Jessie Hill, The Meters et Earl King soutenus par The Meters (que serait le monde musical sans eux?). Ensuite,

nous passons directement à la musique des Indiens du Mardi Gras, l’un des festivals de la Nouvelle-Orléans les plus importants et les plus reconnus internationalement, même si la ville s’enorgueillit d’organiser des fêtes pour à peu près tout - et même la tomate! Outre le duo des frères James et Troy ‘Trombone Shorty’ Andrews, ce Rough Guide fait également entendre Big Chief Monk Boudreaux, une légende de la Nouvelle-Orléans dont les performances inspirées font vivre la tradition du jazz. Les fanfares et les deuxièmes lignes (une tradition dans les défilés à la Nouvelle Orléans) sont représentées par Kermit Ruffins, Papa Grows Funk, New Nightcrawlers Orléans et le Hot 8 Brass Band - leur musique saura vous transporter dans une ambiance de fête. Suivent deux de mes favoris absolus: le groupe funky Dumpstaphunk et Jon Cleary, né en Angleterre mais élevé à la Nouvelle-Orléans. L’influence latino est représentée par l’incroyable Los Hombres Calientes. La compilation retient deux pianistes incroyables, parmi les plus influents dans une ville qui en regorge- Professor Longhair et Dr John. Elle s’achève avec le clarinettiste Dr Michael White, un homme qui a consacré sa vie à faire vivre le jazz. Espérons que cette sélection vous aura donné envie d’en entendre davantage et de découvrir quelques-uns des artistes incroyables issus de la Nouvelle-Orléans et qui ont influencé le monde entier. Citons, parmi tant d’autres: Louis Armstrong, Kid Ory, Sidney Bechet, Jelly

Roll Morton, King Oliver, Dave Bartholomew, Fats Domino, Louis Prima, Huey ‘Piano’ Smith, Snooks Eaglin, Lonnie Johnson, Irma Thomas, le Preservation Hall Jazz Band, James Booker, les Wild Magnolias, les Neville Brothers, la famille Marsalis, Dirty Dozen Brass Band et le Rebirth Brass Band ... Et ce n’est là que la partie émergée de l’iceberg! La Nouvelle-Orléans est une ville unique, dotée d’un riche patrimoine. Ses habitants aiment la musique et ils sont parmi les gens les plus heureux que j’ai eu le plaisir de rencontrer. Si vous aimez cette compilation, prenez tout de suite un billet pour la Nouvelle-Orléans, comme on dit là-bas: «laissez le bon temps rouler!».

JESSIE HILL - Jessie Hill was originally a drummer before going on to be a successful R&B and blues singer. He wrote the lyrics and the melody for this infectious party anthem that gets you singing along from the start. It was initially a struggle to get it released, and was finally recorded in 1960 at the legendary Cosimo Matassa’s studio and produced by Allen Toussaint. It became a Mardi Gras favourite selling close to a million copies and reaching the top five in the US Billboard R & B chart, and the top thirty on the Billboard 100 pop chart. Jessie is the grandfather of James and Troy Andrews who continue to perform this great song to this day.

THE METERS – There is really nothing left to say about The Meters, arguably the greatest funk band of all time. The ensemble is made up of four incredibly musical individuals; Zigaboo Modeliste on drums, George Porter Jr on bass, Leo Nocentelli on guitar and Art Neville on the organ. The group have had an influence on everybody, from Allen Toussaint to Dr John, Paul McCartney and the Rolling Stones. The track ‘Look-ka Py Py’ is a New Orleans funk classic.

EARL KING –Earl Silas Johnson IV started out as a gospel singer, then changed his name to Earl King, and switched to the guitar and the blues in order to further his career. Influenced heavily by Guitar Slim (he actually deputized for his hero on one tour), he was the composer of ‘Come On’, a track later made famous by Jimi Hendrix. The track here was recorded for his comeback in 1972 with none other than The Meters as a backing band.

BIG CHIEF MONK BOUDREAUX – Joseph Pierre Boudreaux is one of the most famous and endearing leaders of a culture that is relatively unknown outside of New Orleans: he is the Big Chief of the Mardi Gras Indian tribe ‘The Golden Eagles’. Boudreaux is widely known for his long time collaboration with Big Chief Bo Dollis and The Wild Magnolias, whose 1974 self title album is an undisputed classic. Boudreaux is now in his seventies and is still performing with as much energy and passion as ever. This track is from his

Kermit Ruffins

latest album Won’t Bow Down (2011), a great record that showcases his eclectic influences, including everything from traditional chants to Jimi Hendrix.

JAMES & TROY ANDREWS – ‘Zulu King’ is taken from the album 12 & Shorty, the title of which reflects each brother’s nickname; trumpeter James is affectionately known as ‘12’ and Troy as ‘Trombone Shorty’. This track has stuck with me ever since I first heard it being played in the Louisiana Music Factory record shop in the French Quarter, and it has been a staple of my DJ sets ever since. Trombone Shorty has since gone on to become a world famous and Grammy nominated star, whose global touring helps to get the New Orleans message out to millions of people, whilst James Andrews has released a fantastic album, The Big Time Stuff and has earned himself a new moniker, ‘Satchmo of the Ghetto’.

KERMIT RUFFINS – ‘Treme Mardi Gras’ perfectly sums up life in the Treme neighbourhood in one song. Kermit Ruffins is the embodiment of the Treme and New Orleans. He is a talented trumpet player, singer and entertainer (his words), a founding member of the ReBirth Brass band, a bar owner and a barbecuing expert. This song is taken from the album Livin’ a Treme Life, which features Kermit lovingly eulogising about his life and experiences in the Treme. In the hugely popular HBO TV series Treme,

Kermit plays himself as nobody else could.

PAPA GROWS FUNK – Led by the incredibly funky and genial keyboard player John Gross, Papa Grows Funk are a band that take no prisoners whenever and wherever they play. ‘F.U. N.K.Y, funky till the day I die’ could easily be their motto. This track is from their 2003 album Shakin’, and is an attention-grabbing mix of second line rhythms, infectious horn riffs and their irrepressible funky attitude.

NEW ORLEANS NIGHTCRAWLERS – In a city renowned for brass bands it is very difficult to get noticed unless you make a genuinely innovative album. One band that succeeded in fulfilling the brief are the New Orleans Nightcrawlers, whose 2009 album Slither Slice is truly unique. The track ‘Hold ‘em Joe’ is based on a popular Indian chant. They are a top-notch outfit that really understand the funky street rhythms of New Orleans and bring it home every time.

HOT 8 BRASS BAND – The Hot 8 Brass Band are another band that are transmitting the New Orleans vibe out to a younger audience. Catch them live to hear them rip it up with a mixture of original songs and classic soul covers. This is the shorter re-edit of their cover of Marvin Gaye’s ‘Sexual Healing’.

DUMPSTAPHUNK – Dumpstaphunk’s mission statement is to make people dance whilst delivering top quality deep funk grooves.

Collectively they have played with The Neville Brothers, The Rolling Stones, Etta James, John Mayer, Angie Stone, Galactic and Harry Connick Jr. As a band they have an almost telepathic musical togetherness making them one of the tightest funk bands on the planet. ‘Sheez Music’ is a real funky joint with fantastic lyrics. The track is lifted from their acclaimed album Everybody Want Sum.

JON CLEARY & THE ABSOLUTE MONSTER GENTLEMEN – Jon Cleary was born in Kent, England but was bred in New Orleans. After a visit to see his uncle who was living in New Orleans, he decided to stay and has been there for the best part of thirty years. He is a brilliant pianist, singer and composer who has fully immersed himself in the music and the culture of the city.

LOS HOMBRES CALIENTES – Los Hombres Calientes were formed by trumpeter (and mayoral candidate) Irvin Mayfield, percussionist Bill Summers and drummer Jason Marsalis in order to explore the Caribbean and South American influence on New Orleans. ‘El Barrio’ is taken from their first album and features a hook based around Donny Hathaway’s classic track ‘The Ghetto’.

PROFESSOR LONGHAIR – ‘Fess’ as he was affectionately known was the greatest New Orleans rhythm and blues pianist ever to have lived. He was at the forefront of two important movements in New Orleans musical history;

the heyday of early rhythm and blues, and the resurgence of interest in traditional jazz after the founding of the New Orleans Jazz and Heritage Festival. According to folklore he was also responsible for naming the legendary bar, Tipitina’s. The track included on this Rough Guide is a live version of what is the unofficial national anthem of New Orleans.

DR JOHN – Probably the most well known internationally of all the artists on this compilation, the infamous Dr. ‘Mac’ Rebennack, as he is also known is famous for fusing blues, pop, jazz, zydeco, boogie woogie and rock ‘n’ roll with his own original song-writing style. The track here showcases just what an exceptional piano player he is and is steeped in the New Orleans tradition that he has been a major part of.

DR MICHAEL WHITE – The second ‘Doctor’ in this compilation is jazz clarinettist, bandleader, composer, jazz historian and musical educator, Dr. Michael White. He is dedicated to keeping traditional jazz alive in the twenty-first century. Unfortunately, Hurricane Katrina destroyed most of his personal collection of jazz artefacts, including a clarinet mouthpiece owned by Sidney Bechet and an estimated 5,000 records.

01 JESSIE HILL Ooh Poo Pah Doo from the album JESSIE HILL’S OOH POO PAH DOO (PART 1) (Hill) pub SBK United Partnership. Licensed from License

Music.

02 THE METERS Look-Ka Py Py from the album THE VERY BEST OF THE METERS (SNAP002CD) (Modeliste, Nocentelli, Porter, Neville) pub Screen Gems

Emi Music Ltd, Licensed from License Music.

03 EARL KING Street Parade - Part 1 from the album STREET PARADE (AIM1207CD) (King) pub Fairwood Music Ltd. Licensed from License

Music.

04 BIG CHIEF MONK BOUDREAUX Monk’s Mardi Gras from the album RISING SUN (FBCD-10007) (Boudreaux, Lisi) pub f.Boo Music (Robin Brennan).

Licensed from F-Boo Records.

05 JAMES AND TROY ANDREWS Zulu King from the album 12 & SHORTY (James Andrews) pub BMI. Licensed from Keep Swingin’

Records.

06 KERMIT RUFFINS Treme Mardi Gras from the album LIVIN’ A TREME’ LIFE (BSR01072) (Ruffins) pub The Kermit Ruffins Music Company (BMI), Nisab Publishing (BMI). Licensed from Basin Street

Records.

07 PAPA GROWS FUNK Soul Second Line from the album SHAKIN’ (803040001125) (Russell Batiste Jr.) pub Krewe of Funk (BMI). Licensed

from Funky Krewe Records.

08 NEW ORLEANS NIGHTCRAWLERS Hold ‘em Joe from the album SLITHER SLICE (8450113522) (New Orleans Nightcrawlers) pub Not So Serious Music

Publishing. Licensed from Threadhead Records.

09 THE HOT 8 BRASS BAND Sexual Healing (Re-Edit) from the album ROCK WITH THE HOT 8 (TRUCD141) (Gaye, Brown, Ritz.) pub Published by Ritz Writes/EMI April Music Inc/EMI Blackwood Music Inc & EMI Songs Ltd, Licensed from Tru Thoughts Records.

10 DUMPSTAPHUNK Sheez Music from the album EVERYBODY WANT SUM (Dumpstaphunk) pub Dumpstaphunk Records. Licensed

from Dumpstaphunk Records.

11 JON CLEARY & THE ABSOLUTE MONSTER GENTLEMEN When You Get Back from the album JON CLEARY AND THE ABSOLUTE MONSTER GENTLEMEN (BSR09012) (Cleary) pub FHQ Entertainment (BMI). Licensed from

Basin Street Records.

12 LOS HOMBRES CALIENTES El Barrio from the album LOS HOMBRES CALIENTES (BSR02012) (Neville, Summers, Mayfield) pub Bilsum Music (BMI), Irvin Mayfield Publishing (BMI), Slaughter Neville Music (BMI), Nisab Publishing (BMI). Licensed from Basin Street

Records.

13 PROFESSOR LONGHAIR Big Chief (Live) from the album PROFESSOR LONGHAIR LIVE (Quezergue, Gaines) pub Fairwood Music Ltd. Licensed

from License Music.

14 DR JOHN Mac’s Boogie from the album DR. JOHN PLAYS MAC REBENNACK (CCD720) (Rebennack) pub Clean Cuts Music. Licensed from Clean

Cuts Records.

15 DR MICHAEL WHITE Basin’ Street Blues from the album ADVENTURES IN NEW ORLEANS JAZZ, PART 1 (BSR05052) (Williams) pub Mpl Music Publishing, Inc. obo Edwin H. Morris & Co. (ASCAP). Licensed from Basin Street Records.

Jon Cleary Los Hombres Calientes DumpstaphunkDr Michael White New Orleans Nightcrawlers Papa Grows Funk

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