The Role of the Ecolabel in textiles2011

Nicholas Paxevanos June 7th 2011Latvia

EU Ecolabel Workshop 2011

Topics

Current situation

Why the ecolabelSupport/BenefitsGPP/Retailer trendsCase Examples

CriteriaApplication process

Common sense and responsibility

EU Ecolabel Workshop 2011

Current situation

C L CB C L

AT 4 5 AU 1

BE 1 1 CN 1

CZ 4 4 EG 2

DE 5 5 HK 1

DK 19 37 ID 2

EE 1 1 IN 2

GR 2 2 KR 1

ES 1 1 MY 1

FR 1 2 NZ 1

LT 1 1 TR 3

UK 3 3 TH 4

IT 14 14

NO 2 2

PL 2 2

PT 4 4

SE 10 11

Total products = 1353

Textile licences: EU / International

EU Ecolabel Workshop 2011

Why the EcolabelSupport

The Ecolabel is moving ahead and it is an important instrument for…

Supporting the SCP and SIP Action plans“Promoting sustainable products and reducing Environmental damage”

Work on promoting the Ecolabel is carried out through

Marketing initiatives, fairs, Brochures GPP, etc. on both

National level Competent Bodies and stakeholders

EU level The EU commisssion - EUEB is the administrator Internationally Unep – 5 year project

EU Ecolabel Workshop 2011

Why the Ecolabel Benefits Improve your company image

Differentiate your products Competitive Advantage Retain Customers and employees

satisfaction/loyalty Access to marketing events/on-line catalogue

A tool for GPPStay ahead of the competition – meet public sector

environmental purchasing demandsExpand your market – do business with public

authorities across EuropeReduce the burden of responding to public tenders –

use the Flower as an easy proof of environmental compliance

Put your products on a short list

A Tool in other areas: CSR, Env. Management, LCA

Gain new customers

Save money in the long run

EU Ecolabel Workshop 2011

Why the EcolabelGPP and the Ecolabel

Public Procurement accounts for 17% of EU wide (GDP) Gross Domestic Product equivalent to 2 trillion Euros

European Commission “Europe 2020 strategy” (growth strategy– sustainable -reducing Co2 emissions). GPP an important instrumentOn 27 January, the European Commission has launched a public consultation on the modernisation of EU public procurement policy. The results of the consultation will provide input to the Commission for the preparation of the future legislative proposal on the reform of the EU public procurement rules. 

GPP made easier for Public Purchasers• No expert knowledge required• Fully compatible with the principles of the international market • Easy identification• GPP Training Toolkit• Handbook on Green Public Procurement• Leaflet on GPP and the EU Ecolabel• Ready made Criteria: Uniform throughout the member states

EU Ecolabel Workshop 2011

Why the EcolabelGPP Member states situation

GPP element Member State implementation (June 2010)

National Action Plan or equivalent document adopted

21: Austria, Belgium, Cyprus, Czech Republic, Denmark, Finland, France, Germany, Italy, Latvia, Lithuania, Luxembourg, Malta, Netherlands, Poland, Portugal, Slovakia, Slovenia, Spain, Sweden, UK

NAP in process of preparation 6: Bulgaria, Estonia, Greece, Ireland, Hungary, Romania

Targets/criteria adopted 21 MSMarket analysis conducted 9 MSCommunication and dissemination activities

9 MS

Training activities 18 MSMonitoring 11 MSGPP - Legally binding Portugal, Germany (for wood and LCC use), Czech

Republic (IT)Mandatory political obligation 18 MS

EU Ecolabel Workshop 2011

Examples of GPP in Denmark GPP is flourishing in Denmark

Public sector: There are 97 municipalities: 16% of GNP, 270 billion DKKHospitals, municipalities, ministries, post, police, army etc. Set requirements for textile products: Technical,Quality, environmental, etc. Offer a Tender

Award criteria %: Price = 50/60% Environment = 15% (changing constantly)

Elderly care has about 600,000 employees: All denim for these employees must adhere to Flower criteria

Almost 80% of all cleaning products and services procured in Denmark are certified by an ISO type I Ecolabel. CO2 reduction of 43%. Cost reduction of 3%There is a network for GPP consisting of municipalitiesThe Competent Body is active and offers consultancy services for GPP

EU Ecolabel Workshop 2011

Why the EcolabelRetailer Trends

The Retail sector represents about 11% of EUs GDP

Individual chains: Want to be seen as Environmentally concerned

The Retail Forum: Launched 2009 – support SCP/SIP Action plans - Includes the biggest chains

Benefits for Retailers/Customers• Easy to choose a product• Environmental• Health• Quality

Internationally: Wal-Mart, Levi Strauss, Esprit, H&M … are working together to find a common standard for sustainable clothing

Retail Forum Promote sustainable products

Reduce environmental footprint of retail sector Green supply chains Share best practice

not an exclusive club: Wider participation encouraged

Working with RetailersWorking with Retailers

EU Ecolabel Workshop 2011

Case Examples Textiles:Private Sector

Examples Private sector

KRENHOLMEstonian

Winning tenders

The process supply chain is controlled for

PENFABRIC

Actively promoting the Ecolabel

Keeping customers loyalty

Promoting through their work zone rangeLithuanian

Australian meeting demand

Supplying various EU customers

EU Ecolabel Workshop 2011

Case Examples Textiles:Private Sector

High QualityConsumer

Health SafeEnvironmental performance

Thong Thai Textile

EU Ecolabel Workshop 2011

Textile Criteria

• Development of Textile Criteria• Responsible CB• Development process (CB /stakeholders)

• Criteria overview• Fibres: Natural fibres, man made fibres …. (pesticides, toxic residues,

emissions)• Chemicals and processes: Spinning, weaving, dyeing/printing…

(Harmful substances: environment/health)• Fitness for use (Quality: dimensional change, colour fastness .. ) • Waste Water Treatment: Ph 6-9, COD > 20 g/kg• Energy use

The process supply chain is controlled for

EU Ecolabel Workshop 2011

The Application Process Textile Manual:

Part A: Are the general application forms Part B and Part C: : Consist of different forms/declarations that must be properly filled in with the right

documentation attached.

Important things to remember in the Application process1. Make a flow chart2. Determine what documentation should be sent to whom3. Check waste water4. Inform the suppliers5. Collect and check the documentation sent 6. Organise/file and complete the documentation 7. Fill out the application forms (Part A,B) and send them to the selected CB

Where to apply

EU Ecolabel Workshop 2011

Application process GuideIt is very important to start with making a flow chart of the

products life cycle.

• A flow chart tells us who does what. This is step 1.

EU Ecolabel Workshop 2011

Application process Guide Step 2 is to research the suppliers

Does the textile supplier have a flower licence? • YES: Ask the textile supplier to send their licence number and a letter stating

that qualities in question are covered by the licence. Fill in application forms (Part A of the Users manual) and send the application to the competent body. 

• NO: Has the textile supplier previously provided flower documentation for another customer?

• If YES, then ask them to send the same documentation relevant to your quality. Check to see that the documentation is up to date, fill in the application forms and send them to the competent body.

• If NO, proceed to step 3.Are the suppliers in the flow chart European, Asian or other?• European: proceed to step 3.• Asian or other: Find out if they treat the waste water • If YES: send waste water treatment pages to them so they can read and fill in

(this is to make sure that they conform to the waste water criteria).Proceed to step 3.

EU Ecolabel Workshop 2011

Application process Guide Step 3.  • Sort out what pages (users manual) apply to the fibre supplier, the spinner, the knitter and dyer. • Find out whether to contact them directly or whether an agent or any other supplier will do it. • Find out if there is any wet process other than the dyer and who it is. GET Waste water

documentation before any other documentation.• Send the relevant criteria and accompanying pages to whom they apply. This way they only get

some pages rather than the whole users manual.• Make a folder with an index. Place documentation received in the appropriate place in the folder

and check it in the index. • When all the documentation is received, send your product for the fitness to use tests, fill in the

application forms and send it to the competent body. If a supplier is not responding, find out the reason. It could be because:  • they don’t understand what is required of them• they don’t want to pay for a test• They are just not interested in the flower for one reason or another It is easier to get a supplier to cooperate if the reason is known. • Remember to always check if the declaration sheets are filled in correctly (date, ticked

boxes, stamped and signed). Check that the tests, safety data sheets and documentation asked for are attached to the declaration.

EU Ecolabel Workshop 2011

The Application Costs

Where to apply

Fees Min Max Reductions

Application fee covers the costs of processing the application.

EUR 200 EUR 1 200 Max. EUR 600 for SMEs and applicants from developing countries

Max. EUR 350 for micro-enterprises

20% reduction for companies registered under EMAS or certified under ISO 14001

Annual fee for the use of the Ecolabel equals

EUR 1500 Max. EUR 750 for SMEs and applicants from developing countries

Max. EUR 350 for micro-enterprises

Thank you for the attention

Bucharest17.2.2011

Questions

Comments

Sense for your CompanyResponsibility to the Environment

EU Ecolabel Workshop 2011

Work Group Discussion topicsWhich of the areas below are relevant/important for your

company

o Export Private sector o B2Bo Retailers/Chain shopso Retailo Public sector

How can the Ecolabel benefit your company/organisation in the areas of importanceo Make a list List in groups:

Application process General discussion