the role of polymers in cosmetics formulations: november ......is a polymer made of two different...

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The Role of Polymers in Cosmetics Formulations: Robert Lochhead, Professor Emeritus of Polymer Science November 13, 2018. SCC Southwest Chapter

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Page 1: The Role of Polymers in Cosmetics Formulations: November ......is a polymer made of two different monomers in the same molecular chain. • Terpolymer is a polymer consisting of 3

The R

ole o

f Pol

ymer

s in

Cosm

etics

For

mul

atio

ns:

Robe

rt Lo

chhe

ad, P

rofe

ssor

Em

eritu

s of P

olym

er S

cienc

eNo

vemb

er 13

, 201

8. S

CC S

outhw

est C

hapte

r

Page 2: The Role of Polymers in Cosmetics Formulations: November ......is a polymer made of two different monomers in the same molecular chain. • Terpolymer is a polymer consisting of 3

Poly

mer

?

•Pol

y=

man

y •M

er =

mem

ber

•Pol

ymer

s are

form

ed b

y lin

king

man

y sm

all m

olec

ules

toge

ther

into

ve

ry la

rge

mol

ecul

es

•Th

is gi

ves r

ise to

new

phy

sical

pro

pert

ies

•Et

hyle

ne is

a g

as :

poly

ethy

lene

is a

toug

h so

lid

•Gl

ucos

e is

wat

er-s

olub

le: c

ellu

lose

is w

ater

-inso

lubl

e

•Cop

olym

eris

a po

lym

er m

ade

of tw

o di

ffere

nt m

onom

ers i

n th

e sa

me

mol

ecul

ar ch

ain.

•T

erpo

lym

eris

a po

lym

er co

nsist

ing

of 3

diff

eren

t mon

omer

s in

the

sam

e m

olec

ular

chai

n.

SCC

SW C

HAPT

ER 1

118

Pol

ymer

s in

Cosm

etics

2

Page 3: The Role of Polymers in Cosmetics Formulations: November ......is a polymer made of two different monomers in the same molecular chain. • Terpolymer is a polymer consisting of 3

Poly

mer

Pro

duct

For

ms

•Pol

ymer

solid

s •

Pow

der,f

lake

s, pr

ills,

pelle

ts, f

oils,

chun

ks,

•Am

orph

ous,

crys

talli

ne o

r sem

i-cry

stal

line

•Po

rous

par

ticle

s •P

olym

er so

lutio

ns

•Pol

ymer

latic

es

•Reg

ular

and

Inve

rse

em

ulsio

ns a

nd m

icro

emul

sions

•D

isper

sions

•S

elf a

ssem

bled

ord

ered

stru

ctur

es

SCC

SW C

HAPT

ER 1

118

Pol

ymer

s in

Cosm

etics

3

Page 4: The Role of Polymers in Cosmetics Formulations: November ......is a polymer made of two different monomers in the same molecular chain. • Terpolymer is a polymer consisting of 3

Poly

mer

Cla

ssifi

catio

n

•Sol

ubili

ty

•W

hich

sol

vent

s?•I

onic

char

ge :

•An

ioni

c.no

nion

ic, ca

tioni

c.

•Pol

ymer

izatio

n m

etho

d •

Cond

ensa

tion

(ste

p-gr

owth

) •

Addi

tion

(cha

in g

row

th -f

ree

radi

cal o

r ion

ic p

olym

eriza

tion

•Nat

ural

or s

ynth

etic

SCC

SW C

HAPT

ER 1

118

Pol

ymer

s in

Cosm

etics

4

Page 5: The Role of Polymers in Cosmetics Formulations: November ......is a polymer made of two different monomers in the same molecular chain. • Terpolymer is a polymer consisting of 3

Poly

mer

Fun

ctio

ns

in C

osm

etic

For

mul

atio

ns

•Fi

lm-fo

rmer

s•

Hair

fixat

ives

, Mas

cara

, Nai

l ena

mel

s,Tra

nsfe

r-res

istan

t col

or co

smet

ics•

Thic

kene

rs a

nd R

heol

ogy-

mod

ifier

s.

•Em

ulsio

n-st

abili

zers

, Gel

s, Bi

nder

s, Ha

ir co

lora

nts,

Hair-

rela

xers

Emul

sifie

rs

•Lo

tions

, Sun

scre

en, H

air-C

olor

Cond

ition

ers

•M

oist

urize

rs

•Em

ollie

nts

•Di

sper

sers

Wat

erpr

oofe

rs•

Mic

ropo

re sp

onge

s SCC

SW C

HAPT

ER 1

118

Pol

ymer

s in

Cosm

etics

5

Page 6: The Role of Polymers in Cosmetics Formulations: November ......is a polymer made of two different monomers in the same molecular chain. • Terpolymer is a polymer consisting of 3

Film

For

mer

s.

•Non

ioni

c •

PVP

[Pol

y(vi

nylp

yrol

idon

e)],

PVP/

VAC

opol

ymer

•Po

lyvi

nylc

apro

lact

am•

Poly

(vin

ylal

coho

l),Po

ly(v

inyl

alco

hol-c

o-vi

nyla

ceta

te)

•Po

lyur

etha

ne-2

,Pol

yure

than

e-5

•PP

G-1

7/IP

DI/

DM

PAC

opol

ymer

•PV

P/D

imet

hico

nyla

cryl

ate/

Poly

carb

amyl

Poly

glyc

olE

ster

•PE

G-2

00 H

ydro

gena

ted

Cas

tor

Oil/

IPD

I Cop

olym

er

•Po

lygl

ycer

yl-2

Diis

oste

arat

e/IP

DI C

opol

ymer

•V

inyl

capr

olac

tam

/PV

P/D

imet

hyla

min

oeth

ylm

etha

cryl

ate

Cop

olym

er [p

oly-

(vin

ylpy

rrol

idon

e-vi

nylc

apro

lact

am-d

imet

hyla

min

oeth

ylm

etha

cryl

ate)

]•

VP/

Vin

yl C

apro

lact

am/D

MA

PA A

cryl

ates

Cop

olym

er•

Cellu

lose

Ace

tate

, Cel

lulo

se A

ceta

te B

utyr

ate,

Cel

lulo

se A

ceta

te P

ropi

onat

e•

Nitr

ocel

lulo

se

SCC

SW C

HAPT

ER 1

118

Pol

ymer

s in

Cosm

etics

6

Page 7: The Role of Polymers in Cosmetics Formulations: November ......is a polymer made of two different monomers in the same molecular chain. • Terpolymer is a polymer consisting of 3

Film

For

mer

s •

Ani

onic

•Sh

ella

c •

Acr

ylat

es C

opol

ymer

•Ac

ryla

tes/

C 1-2S

ucci

nate

s/Hy

drox

yacr

ylat

es C

opol

ymer

•A

cryl

icE

ster

s(an

d)M

etha

cryl

icE

ster

sCop

olym

er•

AM

P-A

cryl

ates

/Ally

l Met

hacr

ylat

e Cop

olym

er•

Dig

lyco

l/Cyc

lohe

xane

dim

etha

nol/I

soph

tala

tes/S

ulfo

isoph

tala

tes C

opol

ymer

D

igly

col/I

soph

tala

tes/

Sulfo

isop

htal

ates

Cop

olym

er•

Isob

utyl

ene

Eth

ylm

alei

mid

e/H

ydro

xyet

hylm

alei

mid

eCop

olym

er•

Gly

ceri

n an

d D

igly

col/C

yclo

hexa

nedi

met

hano

l/Iso

phta

late

s/Su

lfoiso

phta

late

s Cop

olym

er•

Met

hacr

ylat

eAci

d/So

dium

Acr

ylam

idom

ethy

lPro

pane

Sulfo

nate

Cop

olym

er•

Oct

ylac

ryla

mid

e/A

cryl

ates

/But

ylam

inoe

thyl

met

hacr

ylat

eC

opol

ymer

•Po

lyur

etha

ne (a

nd) A

cryl

ates

Cop

olym

er•

PVM

/MA

Cop

olym

er•

PVP/

Eth

ylM

etha

cryl

ate/

Met

hacr

ylic

Aci

dT

erpo

lym

er•

PVP/

Poly

carb

amyl

Poly

glyc

olE

ster

•A

mph

oter

ic•

Acry

late

s/La

uryl

Acry

late

/Ste

aryl

Acry

late

/Eth

ylam

ine

Oxi

deM

etha

cryl

ate

Met

hacr

yloy

lEth

ylBe

tain

e/Ac

ryla

tesC

opol

ymer

SCC

SW C

HAPT

ER 1

118

Pol

ymer

s in

Cosm

etics

7

Page 8: The Role of Polymers in Cosmetics Formulations: November ......is a polymer made of two different monomers in the same molecular chain. • Terpolymer is a polymer consisting of 3

Film

For

mer

s A

nion

ic•

VA/C

roto

nate

sCop

olym

er•

VA/C

roto

nate

s/Vin

yl N

eode

cano

ate

Cop

olym

er

VP/

Acr

ylat

es/L

aury

l Met

hacr

ylat

e C

opol

ymer

SCC

SW C

HAPT

ER 1

118

Pol

ymer

s in

Cosm

etics

8

Page 9: The Role of Polymers in Cosmetics Formulations: November ......is a polymer made of two different monomers in the same molecular chain. • Terpolymer is a polymer consisting of 3

Thic

kene

rs

•N

onio

nic

•H

ydro

xyet

hylc

ellu

lose

,Hyd

roxy

met

hylc

ellu

lose

•M

ethy

lhyd

roxy

ethy

lcel

lulo

se,H

ydro

xypr

opyl

cellu

lose

•H

ydro

xypr

opyl

met

hylc

ellu

lose

•C

etyl

Hyd

roxy

ethy

lcel

lulo

se•

Cor

nSt

arch

,Hyd

roxy

prop

ylSt

arch

Phos

phat

e•

Dis

tarc

hPh

osph

ate,

Dis

tarc

hdi

met

hyle

neur

ea•

Alu

min

umSt

arch

Oct

enyl

Succ

inat

e•

Gua

rgu

m,H

ydro

xypr

opyl

Gua

r•

Loc

ustB

ean

Gum

•R

osin

,Scl

erot

ium

Gum

•M

alto

dext

rin,

Dex

tran

•Po

ly(a

cryl

amid

e)•

PEG-

150

Dist

eara

te,P

EG-1

50/D

ecyl

Alco

hol/

SMDI

Copo

lym

er•

PEG-

150/

Stea

rylA

lcoho

l/SM

DICo

poly

mer

,•

PEG-

180/

Laur

eth-

50/T

MM

GCo

poly

mer

,Pol

yeth

er-1

SCC

SW C

HAPT

ER 1

118

Pol

ymer

s in

Cosm

etics

9

Page 10: The Role of Polymers in Cosmetics Formulations: November ......is a polymer made of two different monomers in the same molecular chain. • Terpolymer is a polymer consisting of 3

Thic

kene

rs

•An

ioni

c •

Acr

ylic

Aci

d/A

cryl

amid

omet

hylP

ropa

neSu

lfoni

cAci

dC

opol

ymer

•Ac

ryla

tes/

C 10-3

0Al

kylA

cryl

ate

Cros

spol

ymer

•A

cryl

ates

/Beh

enet

h-25

Met

hacr

ylat

eC

opol

ymer

•A

cryl

ates

/Ste

aret

h-20

Met

hacr

ylat

eC

opol

ymer

•Ac

ryla

tesC

opol

ymer

(and

)Ste

aret

h-20

•Ac

ryla

tes/

VACr

ossp

olym

er•

Acr

ylic

Aci

d/A

cryl

onitr

ogen

sCop

olym

er•

Am

mon

ium

Acr

yloy

ldim

ethy

ltaur

ate/

Beh

enet

h-25

Met

hacr

ylat

e C

opol

ymer

•A

mm

oniu

mA

cryl

oyld

imet

hylta

urat

e/V

PC

opol

ymer

•C

apry

lic/C

apri

cTri

glyc

erid

e(a

nd)S

odiu

mA

cryl

ates

Cop

olym

er•

Car

bom

er•

PVM

/MA

Dec

adie

neC

ross

poly

mer

SCC

SW C

HAPT

ER 1

118

Pol

ymer

s in

Cosm

etics

10

Page 11: The Role of Polymers in Cosmetics Formulations: November ......is a polymer made of two different monomers in the same molecular chain. • Terpolymer is a polymer consisting of 3

Thic

kene

rs

•Ani

onic

Alg

inic

aci

d •

Prop

ylen

e G

lyco

l Alg

inat

e•

Car

agee

nan

gum

(Kap

pa,I

ota,

Lam

bda)

•C

ellu

lose

Gum

(Car

boxy

met

hylc

ellu

lose

)•

Gum

Ara

bic/

Gum

Aca

cia

•K

aray

agu

m•

Xan

than

gum

SCC

SW C

HAPT

ER 1

118

Pol

ymer

s in

Cosm

etics

11

Page 12: The Role of Polymers in Cosmetics Formulations: November ......is a polymer made of two different monomers in the same molecular chain. • Terpolymer is a polymer consisting of 3

Oil

Thic

kene

rs

•D

imet

hico

ne (a

nd) D

imet

hico

ne C

ross

poly

mer

Silic

a D

imet

hyl S

ilyla

te

SCC

SW C

HAPT

ER 1

118

Pol

ymer

s in

Cosm

etics

12

Page 13: The Role of Polymers in Cosmetics Formulations: November ......is a polymer made of two different monomers in the same molecular chain. • Terpolymer is a polymer consisting of 3

Emul

sifie

rs

•Tr

agac

anth

gum

•Po

ly(a

cryl

amid

e-b-

acry

licac

id)(

Hyp

anSS

201)

SCC

SW C

HAPT

ER 1

118

Pol

ymer

s in

Cosm

etics

13

Page 14: The Role of Polymers in Cosmetics Formulations: November ......is a polymer made of two different monomers in the same molecular chain. • Terpolymer is a polymer consisting of 3

Cond

ition

ers

•C

hito

san

•C

ocod

imon

ium

Hyd

roxy

prop

ylH

ydro

lyze

dC

olla

gen

•C

ocod

imon

ium

Hyd

roxy

prop

yl H

ydro

lyze

d H

air

Ker

atin

•C

ocod

imon

ium

Hyd

roxy

prop

yl H

ydro

lyze

d K

erat

in•

Coc

odim

oniu

m H

ydro

xypr

opyl

Hyd

roly

zed

Whe

at P

rote

in•

Coc

odim

oniu

m H

ydro

xypr

opyl

Oxy

ethy

l Cel

lulo

se•

Stea

rdim

oniu

mH

ydro

xyet

hylC

ellu

lose

•St

eary

ldim

oniu

mH

ydro

xypr

opyl

Hyd

roly

zed

Oxy

ethy

lCel

lulo

se•

Gua

r H

ydro

xypr

opyl

trim

oniu

m C

hlor

ide

•St

arch

Hyd

roxy

prop

yltr

imon

ium

Chl

orid

e•

Lau

ryld

imon

ium

Hyd

roxy

prop

ylH

ydro

lyze

dC

olla

gen

•L

aury

ldim

oniu

mH

ydro

xypr

opyl

Hyd

roly

zed

Whe

atpr

otei

n•

Stea

ryld

imon

ium

Hyd

roxy

prop

ylH

ydro

lyze

dW

heat

Prot

ein

•Po

lyqu

ater

nium

-4,

Poly

quat

erni

um-1

0,Po

lyqu

ater

nium

-24

SCC

SW C

HAPT

ER 1

118

Pol

ymer

s in

Cosm

etics

14

Page 15: The Role of Polymers in Cosmetics Formulations: November ......is a polymer made of two different monomers in the same molecular chain. • Terpolymer is a polymer consisting of 3

Cond

ition

ers

•A

cryl

amid

e/A

mm

oniu

mA

cryl

ateC

opol

ymer

•Po

ly(m

etha

cryl

oxye

thyl

trim

ethy

lam

mon

ium

met

hosu

lfate

)

•Po

ly(N

-met

hylv

inyl

pyri

dini

umch

lori

de)

•O

nam

erM

(pol

yqua

tern

ium

-1),

PEI-

1500

(Pol

y(et

hyle

nim

ine)

•Po

lyqu

ater

nium

-2

•Po

lyqu

ater

nium

-5-p

oly(

acry

lam

ide-

co-m

etha

cryl

oxye

thyl

trim

ethy

lam

mon

ium

etho

sulfa

te)]

•Po

lyqu

ater

nium

-6po

ly(d

imet

hyld

ially

lam

mon

ium

chlo

ride

)

•Po

lyqu

ater

nium

-7•

poly

(acr

ylam

ide-

co-d

imet

hyld

ially

lam

mon

ium

chlo

ride

)

•Po

lyqu

ater

nium

-8

•Po

lyqu

ater

nium

-11

•[p

oly-

(N-v

inyl

-2-p

yrro

lidon

e-m

etha

cryl

oxye

thyl

trim

ethy

lam

mon

ium

etho

sulfa

te)]

•Po

lyqu

ater

nium

-16

[Co(

viny

lpyr

rolid

one-

viny

lmet

hylim

idaz

olin

ium

chlo

ride

)

•Po

lyqu

ater

nium

-17

•Po

lyqu

ater

nium

-18

•Po

lyqu

ater

nium

-22

•po

ly(s

odiu

mac

ryla

te–

dim

ethy

ldia

llyla

mm

oniu

mch

lori

de)

SCC

SW C

HAPT

ER 1

118

Pol

ymer

s in

Cosm

etics

15

Page 16: The Role of Polymers in Cosmetics Formulations: November ......is a polymer made of two different monomers in the same molecular chain. • Terpolymer is a polymer consisting of 3

Cond

ition

ers

Poly

quat

erni

um–2

7•

Poly

quat

erni

um-2

8_•

poly

viny

lpyr

olid

one-

met

hacr

ylam

idop

ropy

ltrim

ethy

lam

mon

ium

chlo

ride

)•

Poly

quat

erni

um-3

1•

Poly

(N,N

-dim

ethy

lam

inop

ropy

lacr

ylat

e-N

-acr

ylam

idin

e-ac

ryla

mid

e-ac

ryla

mid

ine-

acry

licac

id-

acry

loni

trile

)eth

osul

fate

•Po

lyqu

ater

nium

-39

•po

ly(d

imet

hyld

ially

lam

mon

ium

chlo

ride

–so

dium

acry

late

–ac

ryla

mid

e)•

Poly

quat

erni

um-4

3•

poly

(acr

ylam

ide-

acry

lam

idop

ropy

ltrim

oniu

mch

lori

de-2

-acr

ylam

idop

ropy

lsul

fona

te-D

MA

PA)

•Po

lyqu

ater

nium

-44

•Po

ly(v

inyl

pyrr

olid

one-

co-im

idaz

olin

ium

met

hosu

lfate

)•

Poly

quat

erni

um-4

6•

Poly

(vin

ylca

prol

acta

m-v

inyl

pyrr

olid

one-

imid

azol

iniu

mm

etho

sulfa

te)

•Po

lyqu

ater

nium

-47

•po

ly(a

cryl

icac

id-m

etha

cryl

amid

opro

pyltr

imet

hyla

mm

oniu

mch

lori

de–

met

hyla

cryl

ate)

SCC

SW C

HAPT

ER 1

118

Pol

ymer

s in

Cosm

etics

16

Page 17: The Role of Polymers in Cosmetics Formulations: November ......is a polymer made of two different monomers in the same molecular chain. • Terpolymer is a polymer consisting of 3

Cond

ition

ers

•Po

lyqu

ater

nium

-53

•Po

lyqu

ater

nium

-55

•po

ly(v

inyl

pyrr

olid

one-

dim

ethy

lam

inop

ropy

lmet

hacr

ylam

ide-

laur

yldi

met

hylp

ropy

lmet

hacr

ylam

ido

amm

oniu

mch

lori

de)

•PV

P/D

imet

hyla

min

oeth

ylM

etha

cryl

ate

Cop

olym

er•

VP/

DM

APA

Acr

ylat

eC

opol

ymer

•PV

P/D

imet

hyla

min

oeth

ylm

etha

cryl

ate

Poly

carb

amyl

Poly

glyc

olE

ster

•PV

P/D

imet

hico

nyla

cryl

ate/

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carb

amyl

Poly

glyc

olE

ster

•Q

uate

rniu

m-8

0(D

iqua

tern

ary

poly

dim

ethy

lsilo

xane

)•

Poly

(vin

ylpy

rrol

idon

e-co

-dim

ethy

lam

idop

ropy

lmet

hacr

ylam

ide)

•V

P/V

inyl

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rola

ctam

/DM

APA

Acr

ylat

esC

opol

ymer

•A

mod

imet

hico

ne

•PE

G-7

Am

odim

ethi

cone

•Tr

imet

hylsi

loxy

amod

imet

hico

ne

SCC

SW C

HAPT

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Pol

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etics

17

Page 18: The Role of Polymers in Cosmetics Formulations: November ......is a polymer made of two different monomers in the same molecular chain. • Terpolymer is a polymer consisting of 3

Cond

ition

ers

•Io

nene

s•

Poly

(adi

pic

acid

-dim

ethy

lam

inoh

ydro

xypr

opyl

diet

hyle

netr

iam

ine)

•po

ly(a

dipi

cac

id-e

poxy

prop

yldi

ethy

lene

tria

min

e)(D

else

tte

101)

•Si

licon

eQ

uate

rniu

m-8

•Si

licon

eQ

uate

rniu

m-1

2

SCC

SW C

HAPT

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Pol

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s in

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etics

18

Page 19: The Role of Polymers in Cosmetics Formulations: November ......is a polymer made of two different monomers in the same molecular chain. • Terpolymer is a polymer consisting of 3

Hum

ecta

nts

•PE

G-p

oly(

ethy

lene

oxid

e)•

PPG

-po

ly(p

ropy

lene

oxid

e)•

Poly

(eth

ylen

eox

ide-

co-p

ropy

lene

oxid

e)•

Hya

luro

nic

acid

•Po

lygl

ycer

ylm

etha

cryl

ate

•G

lyce

rylP

olym

etha

cryl

ate

•G

lyce

rylp

olym

etha

cryl

ate

and

Prop

ylen

egl

ycol

•G

lyce

rylp

olym

etha

cryl

ate

and

prop

ylen

egl

ycol

and

PVM

/MA

Cop

olym

er•

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cery

lpol

ymet

hacr

ylat

e(a

nd)C

yclo

pent

asilo

xane

(and

)Cyc

lote

tras

iloxa

ne(a

nd)

Poly

sorb

ate

81(a

nd)P

EG

-51

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oam

ine

(and

)Dim

ethi

cono

l(an

d)L

aure

th-9

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lyce

rylP

olym

etha

cryl

ate

(and

)But

ylen

eG

lyco

l(an

d)PV

M/M

AC

opol

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•Po

lype

rflu

oroe

thox

ymet

hoxy

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uoro

ethy

lPE

GPh

osph

ate

SCC

SW C

HAPT

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Pol

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s in

Cosm

etics

19

Page 20: The Role of Polymers in Cosmetics Formulations: November ......is a polymer made of two different monomers in the same molecular chain. • Terpolymer is a polymer consisting of 3

Hum

ecta

nts

•Am

phot

eric

and

Zw

itter

ioni

c Po

lym

ers

•H

ydro

lyze

d C

olla

gen,

Sol

uble

Col

lage

n•

Hydr

olyz

edEl

astin

•So

lubl

eKe

ratin

,Hyd

roliz

edKe

ratin

PG-P

ropy

lmet

hylsi

lane

diol

•Hy

drol

ized

Milk

Prot

ein,

Hydr

olize

dPr

otei

n(a

nd)H

yalu

roni

cAci

d•

Hydr

olize

dSi

lk,H

ydro

lized

Silk

PG-P

ropy

lmet

hylsi

lane

diol

•Hy

drol

ized

Soy

Prot

ein/

Dim

ethi

cone

PEG-

7Ac

etat

e•

Hydr

olize

dSo

yPr

otei

nPG-

Prop

ylm

ethy

lsila

nedi

ol•

Solu

ble

Whe

atPr

otei

n•

Hydr

olize

dW

heat

Prot

ein/

Dim

ethi

cone

PEG-

7Ac

etat

e•

Hydr

olize

dW

heat

Prot

ein/

PEG-

20Ac

etat

eCo

poly

mer

•Hy

drol

ized

Whe

atPr

otei

nPG

-Pro

pylm

ethy

lsila

nedi

ol•

Hydr

olize

dW

heat

Prot

ein

(and

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atO

ligos

acch

arid

es•

Hydr

olize

dW

heat

Prot

ein

Poly

silox

ane

Copo

lym

er•

Hydr

olize

dW

hole

Oat

s•

Isos

tear

oylH

ydro

lized

colla

gen

•So

dium

Lau

royl

Hyd

roly

zed

Silk

SCC

SW C

HAPT

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Pol

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s in

Cosm

etics

20

Page 21: The Role of Polymers in Cosmetics Formulations: November ......is a polymer made of two different monomers in the same molecular chain. • Terpolymer is a polymer consisting of 3

Emol

lient

s •

Bis

-PE

G-1

5 M

ethy

l Eth

er D

imet

hico

ne, B

is-P

EG

/PPG

-20/

20 D

imet

hico

ne•

Dim

ethi

cone

Cop

olyo

l, D

imet

hico

ne C

opol

yol A

ceta

te•

Dim

ethi

cone

Cop

olyo

l N-A

ceta

te T

aura

te (a

nd) S

odiu

m S

alt

•D

imet

hico

ne C

opol

yol P

hosp

hate

, Dim

ethi

cone

PE

G-7

Pho

spha

te•

Dim

ethi

cone

PE

G/P

PG-7

/4 P

hosp

hate

Dim

ethi

cone

PE

G-7

Pht

hala

te, D

imet

hico

ne P

ropy

l PG

-Bet

aine

•M

etho

xy P

EG/P

PG-7

/3 A

min

opro

pyl D

imet

hico

ne

•PE

G-12

Dim

ethi

cone

, PEG

/PPG

-17/

18 D

imet

hico

ne•

PEG/

PPG-

20/6

Dim

ethi

cone

, PEG

/PPG

-25/

25 D

imet

hico

ne•

PVP/

Eico

sene

Cop

olym

er•

Beh

enox

y D

imet

hico

ne

Bis

-PE

G/P

PG-1

4/14

Dim

ethi

cone

(and

) Cyc

lope

nta-

Silo

xane

•B

is-P

EG

/PPG

-16/

16 P

EG

/PPG

-16/

16 D

imet

hico

ne (a

nd) C

apry

lic/C

apri

c Tri

glyc

erid

e

SCC

SW C

HAPT

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Pol

ymer

s in

Cosm

etics

21

Page 22: The Role of Polymers in Cosmetics Formulations: November ......is a polymer made of two different monomers in the same molecular chain. • Terpolymer is a polymer consisting of 3

Emol

lient

s •

C24

-28

Alk

yl M

ethi

cone

, C30

-45

Alk

yl M

ethi

cone

, C24

-28

Met

hico

ne

•C

etyl

Dim

ethi

cone

•C

etyl

Dim

ethi

cone

Cop

olyo

l

•C

etyl

Met

hico

ne

•C

etyl

PE

G/P

PG-1

0/1

Dim

ethi

cone

•C

etyl

PE

G/P

PG-1

5/15

But

yl E

ther

Dim

ethi

cone

•C

yclo

hexa

silo

xane

•C

yclo

met

hico

ne

•C

yclo

met

hico

ne (

and)

Dim

ethi

cone

Cro

sspo

lym

er

•C

yclo

met

hico

ne (

and)

Tri

met

hylsi

loxy

silic

ate

•C

yclo

pent

asilo

xane

•C

yclo

pent

asilo

xane

(an

d) C

apry

lyl D

imet

hico

ne E

thox

y G

luco

side

•C

yclo

pent

asilo

xane

(an

d) D

imet

hico

ne/V

inyl

trim

ethy

lsilo

xysi

licat

e C

ross

poly

mer

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yclo

pent

asilo

xane

(an

d) D

imet

hico

nol

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yclo

pent

asilo

xane

(an

d) P

EG

-12

Dim

ethi

cone

Cro

sspo

lym

er

•C

yclo

pent

asilo

xane

(an

d) P

EG

/PPG

-18/

18 D

imet

hico

ne

•D

imet

hico

ne

•D

imet

hico

ne (a

nd) T

rim

ethy

lsilo

xysi

licat

e

•D

imet

hico

ne C

opol

yol

•D

imet

hico

ne (a

nd) D

imet

hico

nol

•D

imet

hico

ne N

F

•D

imet

hico

ne P

EG

-6 A

ceta

te

•D

imet

hico

ne P

EG

-1 I

sost

eara

te

•D

imet

hico

ne P

EG

-7 C

ocoa

te

•D

imet

hico

ne P

EG

-7 O

livat

e

•D

imet

hico

ne P

EG

-8 B

eesw

ax

•D

imet

hico

ne (a

nd) T

rim

ethy

lsilo

xysi

licat

e

•D

imet

hico

ne/V

inyl

dim

ethi

cone

Cro

sspo

lym

er

•D

imet

hico

nol (

and)

Cyc

lom

ethi

cone

(an

d) D

imet

hico

ne

•D

imet

hico

nol (

and)

Cyc

lope

ntas

iloxa

ne

•D

imet

hico

nol (

and)

Dim

ethi

cone

•D

imet

hico

nol F

luor

oalc

ohol

Dili

nole

ic A

cid

•D

imet

hico

nol/I

PDI

Cop

olym

er

•D

isilo

xane

SCC

SW C

HAPT

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Pol

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s in

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22

Page 23: The Role of Polymers in Cosmetics Formulations: November ......is a polymer made of two different monomers in the same molecular chain. • Terpolymer is a polymer consisting of 3

Emol

lient

s •

Dim

ethi

cone

, Dim

ethi

cone

(and

) Tri

met

hylsi

loxy

silic

ate

•D

imet

hico

ne C

opol

yol,

Dim

ethi

cone

(and

) Dim

ethi

cono

l

•D

imet

hico

ne N

F

•D

imet

hico

ne P

EG

-6 A

ceta

te, D

imet

hico

ne P

EG

-1 I

sost

eara

te

•D

imet

hico

ne P

EG

-7 C

ocoa

te, D

imet

hico

ne P

EG

-7 O

livat

e

•D

imet

hico

ne P

EG

-8 B

eesw

ax

•D

imet

hico

ne (a

nd) T

rim

ethy

lsilo

xysi

licat

e

•D

imet

hico

ne/V

inyl

dim

ethi

cone

Cro

sspo

lym

er

•D

imet

hico

nol (

and)

Cyc

lom

ethi

cone

(an

d) D

imet

hico

ne

•D

imet

hico

nol (

and)

Cyc

lope

ntas

iloxa

ne, D

imet

hico

nol (

and)

Dim

ethi

cone

•D

imet

hico

nol F

luor

oalc

ohol

Dili

nole

ic A

cid,

Dim

ethi

cono

l/IPD

I C

opol

ymer

•D

isilo

xane

•L

aury

l Dim

ethi

cone

•L

aury

l PE

G/P

PG-1

8/18

Met

hico

ne, P

EG

-7 D

imet

hico

ne A

voca

doat

e

•Ph

enyl

Dim

ethi

cone

, Phe

nyl T

rim

ethi

cone

•Po

lym

ethy

lsils

esqu

ioxa

ne

•St

earo

xy D

imet

hico

ne

•St

earo

xy D

imet

hico

ne (a

nd) D

imet

hico

ne

•St

earo

xy T

rim

ethy

lsila

ne (

and)

Ste

aryl

Alc

ohol

•St

eary

l Dim

ethi

cone

•St

eary

l Met

hico

ne

•G

raft-

copo

ly(d

imet

hyls

iloxa

ne/i-

buty

l met

hacr

ylat

e)

• •

SCC

SW C

HAPT

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Pol

ymer

s in

Cosm

etics

23

Page 24: The Role of Polymers in Cosmetics Formulations: November ......is a polymer made of two different monomers in the same molecular chain. • Terpolymer is a polymer consisting of 3

Emol

lient

s •

Stea

roxy

Dim

ethi

cone

•St

earo

xy D

imet

hico

ne (a

nd) D

imet

hico

ne•

Stea

roxy

Tri

met

hyls

ilane

(and

) Ste

aryl

Alc

ohol

•St

eary

l Dim

ethi

cone

•St

eary

l Met

hico

ne•

Gra

ft-c

opol

y(di

met

hyls

iloxa

ne/i-

buty

l met

hacr

ylat

e)•

Graf

t-cop

oly

(IBM

A; M

eFO

SEA/

PDM

S) P

erflu

oron

onyl

Dim

ethi

cone

•Pe

rflu

oroe

ther

s•

Poly

perf

luor

oeth

oxym

etho

xy D

ifluo

rohy

drox

yeth

yl E

ther

•Po

lype

rflu

oroe

thox

ymet

hoxy

Difl

uoro

met

hyl D

iste

aram

ide

•H

ydro

gena

ted

Poly

dece

ne, H

ydro

gena

ted

Poyi

sobu

tene

•Po

lyde

cene

/Pol

ybut

ene

Cop

olym

er

SCC

SW C

HAPT

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Pol

ymer

s in

Cosm

etics

24

Page 25: The Role of Polymers in Cosmetics Formulations: November ......is a polymer made of two different monomers in the same molecular chain. • Terpolymer is a polymer consisting of 3

Emol

lient

Pow

ders

•Si

lk P

owde

r•

Nyl

on –

6, N

ylon

-6/1

2, N

ylon

-12

•Po

lyet

hyle

ne, O

xidi

zed

Poly

ethy

lene

•Tr

imet

hyls

iloxy

silic

ate

SCC

SW C

HAPT

ER 1

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Pol

ymer

s in

Cosm

etics

25

Page 26: The Role of Polymers in Cosmetics Formulations: November ......is a polymer made of two different monomers in the same molecular chain. • Terpolymer is a polymer consisting of 3

Disp

ersi

ng A

gent

s

•Sod

ium

pol

ysty

rene

sulfo

nate

•Sod

ium

poly

met

hacr

ylat

e•S

odiu

mpo

lyna

phth

alen

esul

phon

ate

SCC

SW C

HAPT

ER 1

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Pol

ymer

s in

Cosm

etics

26

Page 27: The Role of Polymers in Cosmetics Formulations: November ......is a polymer made of two different monomers in the same molecular chain. • Terpolymer is a polymer consisting of 3

Wat

erpr

oofe

rs

•A

cryl

ates

/Oct

ylac

ryla

mid

e Cop

olym

er•

Acr

ylic

/Acr

ylat

e C

opol

ymer

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ryla

tes/

C 12-2

2Al

kylm

etha

cryl

ate

Copo

lym

er•

Ethy

lene

/Acr

ylat

e Co

poly

mer

, Eth

ylen

e/Vi

nyl A

ceta

te C

opol

ymer

•PV

P/Ei

cose

ne C

opol

ymer

, PV

P/H

exad

ecan

e C

opol

ymer

SCC

SW C

HAPT

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Pol

ymer

s in

Cosm

etics

27

Page 28: The Role of Polymers in Cosmetics Formulations: November ......is a polymer made of two different monomers in the same molecular chain. • Terpolymer is a polymer consisting of 3

Mic

ropo

re sp

onge

s •

Met

hyl M

etha

cryl

ate

Cro

sspo

lym

er (a

nd) D

imet

hico

ne•

Met

hyl M

etha

cryl

ate

cros

spol

ymer

(and

) Gly

ceri

n•

Met

hyl M

etha

cryl

ate

Cro

sspo

lym

er (a

nd) V

itam

in A

Pal

mita

te (a

nd)

Cor

n O

il

Styr

ene/

DV

B C

opol

ymer

(and

) Min

eral

Oil

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uryl

Met

hacr

ylat

e/Gl

ycol

Dim

etha

cryl

ate

Copo

lym

er

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uryl

Met

hacr

ylat

e/Gl

ycol

Dim

etha

cryl

ate

Copo

lym

er (a

nd)

Cycl

omet

hico

ne•

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yl M

etha

cryl

ate/

Glyc

ol D

imet

hacr

ylat

e Co

poly

mer

(and

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met

hico

ne•

Laur

yl M

etha

cryl

ate/

Glyc

ol D

imet

hacr

ylat

e Co

poly

mer

(and

) Di

met

hico

ne

(and

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rola

tum

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uryl

Met

hacr

ylat

e/Gl

ycol

Dim

etha

cryl

ate

Copo

lym

er (a

nd)

Min

eral

Oil

SCC

SW C

HAPT

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Pol

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s in

Cosm

etics

28

Page 29: The Role of Polymers in Cosmetics Formulations: November ......is a polymer made of two different monomers in the same molecular chain. • Terpolymer is a polymer consisting of 3

Pion

eers

of P

olym

er S

cien

ce

SCC

SW C

HAPT

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Pol

ymer

s in

Cosm

etics

29

Page 30: The Role of Polymers in Cosmetics Formulations: November ......is a polymer made of two different monomers in the same molecular chain. • Terpolymer is a polymer consisting of 3

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incl

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to th

ink

that

the

deve

lopm

ent o

f po

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big

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thin

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hem

istry

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as h

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gges

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on

ever

yday

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SCC

SW C

HAPT

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Pol

ymer

s in

Cosm

etics

30

Page 31: The Role of Polymers in Cosmetics Formulations: November ......is a polymer made of two different monomers in the same molecular chain. • Terpolymer is a polymer consisting of 3

“Pla

stic

s”

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a w

onde

rful l

ife –

plas

tic:

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SCC

SW C

HAPT

ER 1

118

Pol

ymer

s in

Cosm

etics

31

Page 32: The Role of Polymers in Cosmetics Formulations: November ......is a polymer made of two different monomers in the same molecular chain. • Terpolymer is a polymer consisting of 3

Her

man

n St

audi

nger

•Cha

lleng

ed F

ritz H

aber

on

‘gas

war

fare

”•C

halle

nged

the

idea

that

pol

ymer

s wer

e m

erel

y ag

greg

ated

–•

Publ

ished

evi

denc

e in

192

0’s f

or la

rge

cova

lent

ly b

onde

d m

olec

ules

and

term

ed

them

‘mac

rom

olec

ules

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926:

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er d

ebat

ed th

e id

ea o

f m

acro

mol

ecul

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ark

supp

orte

d th

e id

ea:

HABE

R W

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udin

ger o

stra

cized

dur

ing

WW

II•1

953

: Nob

el P

rize

in ch

emist

ry

SCC

SW C

HAPT

ER 1

118

Pol

ymer

s in

Cosm

etics

32

Page 33: The Role of Polymers in Cosmetics Formulations: November ......is a polymer made of two different monomers in the same molecular chain. • Terpolymer is a polymer consisting of 3

Her

man

Fra

ncis

Mar

k 18

95-1

992

•M

ost d

ecor

ated

Aus

tria

n of

ficer

in W

W I

•Do

ctor

ate

from

U. V

ienn

a 19

21•

Mem

ber o

f Kai

ser W

ilhel

m In

stitu

t•

Join

ed IG

Farb

enin

192

7•

X-ra

y cr

ysta

llogr

aphy

“ •

cellu

lose

is a

gia

nt m

olec

ule”

•De

velo

ped

the

met

hod

to m

easu

re p

olym

er m

olec

ular

size

fro

m E

inst

ein’

s visc

osity

theo

ry. [

ή] =

KM

a•

Pion

eere

d PV

C, p

olys

tyre

ne a

nd sy

nthe

tic ru

bber

s•

1936

; ret

reat

ed to

Vie

nna

•19

38 e

scap

ed to

Sw

itzer

land

and

then

Can

ada

and

then

USA

•Es

tabl

ished

the

poly

mer

pro

gram

at B

rook

lyn

Poly

tech

nic

Inst

itute

•M

any

Amer

ican

poly

mer

chem

ists c

an tr

ace

thei

r aca

dem

ic or

igin

s to

this

prog

ram

SCC

SW C

HAPT

ER 1

118

Pol

ymer

s in

Cosm

etics

33

Page 34: The Role of Polymers in Cosmetics Formulations: November ......is a polymer made of two different monomers in the same molecular chain. • Terpolymer is a polymer consisting of 3

Wer

ner K

uhn

Swiss

Phy

sical

Che

mist

–18

99-1

963

•193

0 –

Karls

ruhe

Tech

nica

l Uni

vers

ity

•Fi

rst a

pplic

atio

n of

stat

istica

l the

ory

to p

olym

er sc

ienc

e•

Show

ed th

at ce

llulo

se m

acro

mol

ecul

ar ch

ains

in so

lutio

n ar

e co

iled

rath

er

than

rigi

d•

Appl

ied

stat

istica

l the

ory

to e

xpla

in ru

bber

ela

stici

ty

•Pr

edict

ed th

e M

ossb

auer

effe

ct 2

9 ye

ars b

efor

e M

ossb

auer

disc

over

ed it

.

SCC

SW C

HAPT

ER 1

118

Pol

ymer

s in

Cosm

etics

34

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Wal

lace

Hum

e Ca

roth

ers 1

896-

1937

•Rec

ruite

d to

Du

Pont

from

Har

vard

In

stru

ctor

ship

•To

inve

stig

ate

poss

ibili

ty o

f syn

thet

ic ru

bber

from

ace

tyle

ne ch

emist

ry

•19

30 A

rnol

d Co

llins

disc

over

ed

chlo

ropr

ene

•Sp

onta

neou

s pol

ymer

izatio

n to

Ne

opre

ne•

Julia

n Hi

ll sy

nthe

sized

firs

t pol

yest

ers

•19

34: d

iscov

ered

Nyl

on (

“New

York

Lo

ndon

”)

•19

37 B

olto

n co

mm

ercia

lized

nyl

on a

s a

fash

ion

fiber

•W

W II

–Ny

lon

Para

chut

es

SCC

SW C

HAPT

ER 1

118

Pol

ymer

s in

Cosm

etics

35

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Poly

(vin

ylpy

rrol

idon

e) th

e w

orld

’s fir

st

synt

hetic

wat

er-s

olub

le p

olym

er•I

nven

tion

of th

e el

ectr

ic lig

ht•

deva

stat

ed th

e ac

etyl

ene

indu

stry

•I.G

. Far

benf

abrik

en sc

ient

ists s

ough

t oth

er u

ses

for a

cety

lene

•I.G

. Far

benf

abrik

en p

osse

ssed

the

Habe

r Pro

cess

fo

r the

synt

hesis

of a

mm

onia

from

nitr

ogen

and

hy

drog

en•

In 1

938

Paul

Rep

pe sy

nthe

sized

N-2

-vi

nylp

yrro

lidon

e fro

m a

cety

lene

and

am

mon

ia

SCC

SW C

HAPT

ER 1

118

Pol

ymer

s in

Cosm

etics

36

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Poly

(vin

ylpy

rrol

idon

e) [

PVP]

•Rep

pe w

ent h

ome

and

left

the

flask

with

the

viny

lpyr

rolid

one

on

the

win

dow

sill

•On

his r

etur

n he

foun

d a

whi

te

solid

in th

e fla

sk•T

he su

nlig

ht h

ad p

olym

erize

d vi

nylp

yrro

lidon

e to

PVP

SCC

SW C

HAPT

ER 1

118

Pol

ymer

s in

Cosm

etics

37

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Poly

(vin

ylpy

rrol

idon

e) [

PVP]

•Thi

s am

azin

g po

lym

er d

issol

ved

in w

ater

and

the

solu

tion

was

ve

ry v

iscou

s SCC

SW C

HAPT

ER 1

118

Pol

ymer

s in

Cosm

etics

38

Page 39: The Role of Polymers in Cosmetics Formulations: November ......is a polymer made of two different monomers in the same molecular chain. • Terpolymer is a polymer consisting of 3

Poly

(vin

ylpy

rrol

idon

e) [

PVP]

•Thi

s am

azin

g po

lym

er d

issol

ved

in w

ater

and

the

solu

tion

was

ve

ry v

iscou

s SCC

SW C

HAPT

ER 1

118

Pol

ymer

s in

Cosm

etics

39

Page 40: The Role of Polymers in Cosmetics Formulations: November ......is a polymer made of two different monomers in the same molecular chain. • Terpolymer is a polymer consisting of 3

Poly

(vin

ylpy

rrol

idon

e) [

PVP]

•Thi

s am

azin

g po

lym

er d

issol

ved

in w

ater

and

the

solu

tion

was

ve

ry v

iscou

s•U

nlik

e na

tura

l gum

s thi

s pol

ymer

ha

d a

wid

e ra

nge

of so

lubi

lity

in

orga

nic s

olve

nts

SCC

SW C

HAPT

ER 1

118

Pol

ymer

s in

Cosm

etics

40

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Poly

(vin

ylpy

rrol

idon

e) [

PVP]

•Thi

s am

azin

g po

lym

er w

as

foun

d to

be

safe

in th

e bo

dy•i

t cou

ld b

e ad

ded

to th

e bl

ood

with

out a

ny o

bser

vabl

e ill

effe

cts

SCC

SW C

HAPT

ER 1

118

Pol

ymer

s in

Cosm

etics

41

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Poly

(vin

ylpy

rrol

idon

e) [

PVP]

•Dur

ing

Wor

ld W

ar II

•G

erm

an R

ussia

n Fr

ont

•PVP

use

d as

a b

lood

pl

asm

a su

bstit

ute

to sa

ve

man

y Ge

rman

sold

iers

’ liv

es

SCC

SW C

HAPT

ER 1

118

Pol

ymer

s in

Cosm

etics

42

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Poly

(vin

ylpy

rrol

idon

e) [

PVP]

•194

5 GA

F re

ceiv

ed th

e rig

hts t

o PV

P up

on

cess

atio

n of

hos

tiliti

es

•The

y bu

ilt a

pro

duct

ion

facil

ity in

Cal

vert

City

KY

-to

prov

ide

PVP

for K

orea

n W

ar

SCC

SW C

HAPT

ER 1

118

Pol

ymer

s in

Cosm

etics

43

Page 44: The Role of Polymers in Cosmetics Formulations: November ......is a polymer made of two different monomers in the same molecular chain. • Terpolymer is a polymer consisting of 3

Poly

(vin

ylpy

rrol

idon

e) [

PVP]

•Kor

ean

War

ceas

ed•

Mar

ket f

or P

VP d

ried

up•

Wha

t to

do?

44SC

C S

W C

HA

PTER

111

8 P

olym

ers

in C

osm

etic

s

Page 45: The Role of Polymers in Cosmetics Formulations: November ......is a polymer made of two different monomers in the same molecular chain. • Terpolymer is a polymer consisting of 3

Poly

(vin

ylpy

rrol

idon

e) [

PVP]

•195

0’s -

Hairs

tyle

s asc

end

•Hai

rspr

ay b

ecom

es n

eces

sary

•She

llac i

s use

d as

the

fixat

ive

poly

mer

•bu

t she

llac i

s ins

olub

le in

wat

er

•ca

nnot

be

rem

oved

by

sham

poos

45SC

C S

W C

HA

PTER

111

8 P

olym

ers

in C

osm

etic

s

Page 46: The Role of Polymers in Cosmetics Formulations: November ......is a polymer made of two different monomers in the same molecular chain. • Terpolymer is a polymer consisting of 3

Euge

ne G

uth

1905

-199

0•H

unga

rian

–Na

tura

lized

US

1942

•Pro

fess

or U

. Vie

nna

1932

-37

•Dire

ctor

, Offi

ce o

f Rub

ber R

esea

rch

Proj

ect 1

943-

44•O

RNL P

rofe

ssor

of P

hysic

s-No

tre

Dam

e •D

evel

oped

mod

ern

theo

ry o

f rub

ber

elas

ticity

•Ru

bber

is a

n ‘e

ntro

py sp

ring’ SC

C SW

CHA

PTER

111

8 P

olym

ers i

n Co

smet

ics46

Page 47: The Role of Polymers in Cosmetics Formulations: November ......is a polymer made of two different monomers in the same molecular chain. • Terpolymer is a polymer consisting of 3

Paul

J. F

lory

191

0-19

85

•Ph

D Ph

otoc

hem

istry

Ohi

o St

ate

U. 1

934

•19

34 -1

937

Du P

ont

•W

orke

d un

der C

arot

hers

•19

43-4

8 Go

odye

ar T

ire &

Rub

ber C

o.•

1948

–In

vite

d by

Deb

ye to

Cor

nell

U.•

Laid

dow

n pr

incip

le o

f exc

lude

d vo

lum

e•

Intr

oduc

ed th

e id

ea o

f The

ta co

nditi

ons

•W

rote

“ Pr

incip

les o

f Pol

ymer

Che

mist

ry”

•19

57 M

ello

n In

stitu

te•

1961

–St

anfo

rd U

. •

Deve

lope

d th

eorie

s of c

hain

stat

istic

s.

SCC

SW C

HAPT

ER 1

118

Pol

ymer

s in

Cosm

etics

47

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Mau

rice

Loya

l Hug

gins

189

7-19

81

•191

9; C

once

ived

the

idea

of h

ydro

gen

bond

ing

•W

hile

doi

ng P

hD u

nder

G.N

.Lew

isat

UC

Berk

eley

•Pro

duce

d th

e m

odel

of t

he a

lpha

-hel

ix in

194

3•F

lory

–Hu

ggin

s The

ory

1948

SCC

SW C

HAPT

ER 1

118

Pol

ymer

s in

Cosm

etics

48

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Wat

er S

tock

may

er19

14-2

004

•Lai

d fo

unda

tions

for t

he

stat

istica

l the

ory

of p

olym

er

solu

tions

•Fou

nded

the

jour

nal

‘Mac

rom

olec

ules

SCC

SW C

HAPT

ER 1

118

Pol

ymer

s in

Cosm

etics

49

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Robe

rt S

imha

1912

-200

8

•Doc

tora

te –

U. V

ienn

a 19

37•

Exte

nded

Ein

stei

n’s v

iscos

ity

theo

ry to

elli

psoi

ds a

nd h

ighe

r co

ncen

trat

ions

•M

ajor

cont

ribut

ions

to th

e st

atist

ical t

heor

y of

pol

ymer

s •

Broo

klyn

, NIS

T, US

C, C

ase-

Wes

tern

SCC

SW C

HAPT

ER 1

118

Pol

ymer

s in

Cosm

etics

50

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Pier

re-G

illes

de

Gen

nes

•Pro

fess

or a

t the

Col

lege

de

Fran

ce•L

iqui

d Cr

ysta

ls•C

ritica

l ove

rlap

conc

entr

atio

n•“

Blob

” The

ory

•i.e

. Cor

rela

tion

Leng

th

SCC

SW C

HAPT

ER 1

118

Pol

ymer

s in

Cosm

etics

51

Page 52: The Role of Polymers in Cosmetics Formulations: November ......is a polymer made of two different monomers in the same molecular chain. • Terpolymer is a polymer consisting of 3

Sam

Edw

ards

Cam

brid

ge U

.•D

evel

oped

theo

ries f

or

poly

mer

s, ge

ls, co

lloid

s and

gl

asse

s•

The

impo

rtan

ce o

f cor

rela

tion

leng

th

SCC

SW C

HAPT

ER 1

118

Pol

ymer

s in

Cosm

etics

52

Page 53: The Role of Polymers in Cosmetics Formulations: November ......is a polymer made of two different monomers in the same molecular chain. • Terpolymer is a polymer consisting of 3

Sum

mar

y

•The

idea

s tha

t wer

e in

trod

uced

in th

is le

ctur

e•

Poly

mer

s dom

inat

e m

ater

ials

in o

ur m

oder

n w

orld

•Th

e in

trod

uctio

n of

the

conc

ept o

f gia

nt m

olec

ules

•Po

lym

er co

nfor

mat

ion

in so

lutio

n •

Coile

d m

olec

ules

•Ho

w to

mea

sure

mol

ecul

ar si

ze

•Co

nden

satio

n an

d ad

ditio

n po

lym

eriza

tion

•Th

e in

trod

uctio

n of

synt

hetic

wat

er-s

olub

le p

olym

ers

•Ru

bber

ela

stici

ty•

The

impo

rtan

ce o

f exc

lude

d vo

lum

e an

d in

tram

olec

ular

forc

es•

Corr

elat

ion

leng

th a

nd o

ur u

nder

stan

ding

of t

he se

mi-d

ilute

dom

ain.

SCC

SW C

HAPT

ER 1

118

Pol

ymer

s in

Cosm

etics

53

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SCC

SW C

HAPT

ER 1

118

Pol

ymer

s in

Cosm

etics

54

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Boltz

man

n

SCC

SW C

HAPT

ER 1

118

Pol

ymer

s in

Cosm

etics

55

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SCC

SW C

HAPT

ER 1

118

Pol

ymer

s in

Cosm

etics

56

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SCC

SW C

HAPT

ER 1

118

Pol

ymer

s in

Cosm

etics

Poly

mer

Sol

ubili

ty

Poly

mer

solu

bilit

y an

d in

solu

bilit

y ar

e of

ten

not a

bsol

ute

Phas

e Se

para

tion:

Bin

odal

sand

Spi

noda

ls

57

Page 58: The Role of Polymers in Cosmetics Formulations: November ......is a polymer made of two different monomers in the same molecular chain. • Terpolymer is a polymer consisting of 3

Poly

mer

Sol

utio

n Th

eory

Flor

y Hu

ggin

s an

d So

lubi

lity

Para

met

er

58

Page 59: The Role of Polymers in Cosmetics Formulations: November ......is a polymer made of two different monomers in the same molecular chain. • Terpolymer is a polymer consisting of 3

Solu

bilit

y Pa

ram

eter

On

the

basis

of “

like

diss

olve

s lik

e”,

Hild

ebra

nd h

ypot

hesiz

ed th

at so

lven

ts

diss

olve

d so

lute

s whe

n th

e fo

rces

be

twee

n th

e m

olec

ules

mat

ched

•Ho

w to

com

pare

the

‘cohe

sive

forc

es’

betw

een

liqui

ds•

Com

pare

thei

r hea

ts o

f vap

oriza

tion

•O

n th

e ba

sis o

f ene

rgy

per u

nit v

olum

e•

Not m

olec

ular

size

.

SCC

SW C

HAPT

ER 1

118

Pol

ymer

s in

Cosm

etics

59

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SCC

SW C

HAPT

ER 1

118

Pol

ymer

s in

Cosm

etics

Solu

bilit

y Pa

ram

eter

•Hild

ebra

nd In

trod

uced

the

conc

ept t

hat s

pont

aneo

us m

olec

ular

m

ixin

g oc

curs

whe

n th

e co

hesiv

e en

ergy

den

sitie

s mat

ched

. •

Ener

gy p

er u

nit v

olum

e•

Joul

es/c

ubic

met

reor

jou

les/

cubi

c cm

.

•Hild

ebra

nd d

efin

ed th

e so

lubi

lity

para

met

er a

s the

squa

re ro

ot o

f the

co

hesiv

e en

ergy

den

sity.

•=c

1/2

= (U

/V) ½

= (

g lU/V

) ½

•=

[(g lH

-RT

) /V½

]

•Thi

s wor

ks w

ell f

or m

ater

ials

with

onl

y di

sper

sion

forc

es•

Such

as a

lkane

s.

60

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SCC

SW C

HAPT

ER 1

118

Pol

ymer

s in

Cosm

etics

Solu

bilit

y Pa

ram

eter

•Hild

ebra

nd S

olub

ility

doe

s not

wor

k so

wel

l for

subs

tanc

es th

at a

re

pola

r or L

ewis

acid

s and

Lew

is ba

ses

•Be

caus

e it

does

not

acc

ount

for t

he e

ntro

py lo

ss d

ue to

orie

ntat

iona

l or

derin

g in

thes

e m

ater

ials

•G

=H

-TS

•To

acc

ount

for t

his H

anse

n in

trod

uced

thre

e co

mpo

nent

s of t

he so

lubi

lity

para

met

er:

•Di

sper

sion

•Po

lar

•H-

bond

ing

61

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SCC

SW C

HAPT

ER 1

118

Pol

ymer

s in

Cosm

etics

Solu

bilit

y Pa

ram

eter

•Ho

y in

trod

uced

the

Idea

of f

ract

iona

l sol

ubili

ty p

aram

eter

s •

f disp

ersig

n=

disp

ersig

n/to

tal

•f po

lar

= po

lar /

tota

l•

f H-b

ondi

ng =

H-

bond

ing /

tota

l

•He

show

ed th

at m

olec

ular

mix

ing

was

spon

tane

ous w

hen

the

thre

e fra

ctio

nal r

atio

s mat

ched

Solu

bilit

ies o

f pol

ymer

s cou

ld b

e m

appe

d •

Mat

chin

g co

uld

even

be

achi

eved

by

mix

ing

two

non-

solv

ents

Raisi

ng th

e m

olec

ular

wei

ght o

f the

solu

te

•Re

stric

ts th

e so

lubi

lity

scop

e

62

Page 63: The Role of Polymers in Cosmetics Formulations: November ......is a polymer made of two different monomers in the same molecular chain. • Terpolymer is a polymer consisting of 3

SCC

SW C

HAPT

ER 1

118

Pol

ymer

s in

Cosm

etics

Disp

ersio

n Fo

rces

Pola

r For

ces

Hydr

ogen

Bon

ding

100 80

20

60

40

2010

0

80

60

40

4060

8010

020

= Al

kane

s

Hans

en-H

oy S

olub

ility

Par

amet

ers

63

Page 64: The Role of Polymers in Cosmetics Formulations: November ......is a polymer made of two different monomers in the same molecular chain. • Terpolymer is a polymer consisting of 3

SCC

SW C

HAPT

ER 1

118

Pol

ymer

s in

Cosm

etics

Solu

bilit

y Di

agra

ms

0.00

0.25

0.50

0.75

1.00

0.00

0.25

0.50

0.75

1.00

0.0

0.2

0.4

0.6

0.8

1.0

f pf h

f d

Solv

ents

sel

ecte

d

Wat

erKe

tone

s

Alco

hols

Hyd

roca

rbon

sH

alog

enat

ed H

ydro

carb

ons

DM

SO

DM

F

Barto

n, A

.F.M

. H

andb

ook

of S

olub

ility

Par

amet

ers

and

Oth

er C

ohes

ion

Par

amet

ers.

C

RC

Pre

ss: B

oca

Rat

on, F

lorid

a (1

983)

.64

Page 65: The Role of Polymers in Cosmetics Formulations: November ......is a polymer made of two different monomers in the same molecular chain. • Terpolymer is a polymer consisting of 3

SCC

SW C

HAPT

ER 1

118

Pol

ymer

s in

Cosm

etics

PCL

Solu

bilit

y in

Pur

e So

lven

ts

0.00

0.25

0.50

0.75

1.00

0.00

0.25

0.50

0.75

1.00

0.0

0.2

0.4

0.6

0.8

1.0

Sol

uble

Hig

hly

Swol

len

Lig

htly

Sw

olle

n In

solu

ble

Car

bon

Tetra

chlo

rideTo

luen

eBe

nzen

eD

ioxa

ne

Chl

orof

orm

Die

thyl

Eth

er

THF

Ethy

l Ace

tate

Met

hyle

ne C

hlor

ide

Pyrid

ine

MEK

Acet

one

DM

F

DM

SO

Prop

ylen

e G

lyco

lAc

etic

Aci

d

Gly

cerin

eFo

rmic

Aci

dM

etha

nol

Wat

erPoly

(Cap

rola

cton

e) 2

5°C

Hydrogen Bonding

Polar Forces

Dis

pers

ion

Forc

es65

Page 66: The Role of Polymers in Cosmetics Formulations: November ......is a polymer made of two different monomers in the same molecular chain. • Terpolymer is a polymer consisting of 3

SCC

SW C

HAPT

ER 1

118

Pol

ymer

s in

Cosm

etics

PVAm

-11

Solu

bilit

y in

Pur

e So

lven

ts

0.00

0.25

0.50

0.75

1.00

0.00

0.25

0.50

0.75

1.00

0.0

0.2

0.4

0.6

0.8

1.0

Sol

uble

Hig

hly

Swol

len

Lig

htly

Sw

olle

n In

solu

ble

Car

bon

Tetra

chlo

rideTo

luen

eBe

nzen

eD

ioxa

ne

Chl

orof

orm

Die

thyl

Eth

er

THF

Ethy

l Ace

tate

Met

hyle

ne C

hlor

ide

Pyrid

ine

MEK

Acet

one

DM

F

DM

SO

Prop

ylen

e G

lyco

lAc

etic

Aci

d

Gly

cerin

eFo

rmic

Aci

dM

etha

nol

Wat

erPoly

(Vin

ylam

ine-

pH 1

1.04

) 25°

C

Hydrogen Bonding

Polar Forces

Dis

pers

ion

Forc

es

66

Page 67: The Role of Polymers in Cosmetics Formulations: November ......is a polymer made of two different monomers in the same molecular chain. • Terpolymer is a polymer consisting of 3

SCC

SW C

HAPT

ER 1

118

Pol

ymer

s in

Cosm

etics

Poly

(-C

apro

lact

one)

So

lubi

lity

Diag

ram

0.0

0.2

0.4

0.6

0.8

1.0

0.0

0.2

0.4

0.6

0.8

1.0

0.0

0.2

0.4

0.6

0.8

1.0

Sol

uble

Sw

olle

n In

solu

ble

f hf p

f d

OO

n

67

Page 68: The Role of Polymers in Cosmetics Formulations: November ......is a polymer made of two different monomers in the same molecular chain. • Terpolymer is a polymer consisting of 3

SCC

SW C

HAPT

ER 1

118

Pol

ymer

s in

Cosm

etics

Poly

(4-V

inyl

phen

ol)

Solu

bilit

y Di

agra

m

0.0

0.2

0.4

0.6

0.8

1.0

0.0

0.2

0.4

0.6

0.8

1.0

0.0

0.2

0.4

0.6

0.8

1.0

Sol

uble

Sw

olle

n In

solu

ble

f hf p

f d

OH

n

68

Page 69: The Role of Polymers in Cosmetics Formulations: November ......is a polymer made of two different monomers in the same molecular chain. • Terpolymer is a polymer consisting of 3

SCC

SW C

HAPT

ER 1

118

Pol

ymer

s in

Cosm

etics

Poly

(Eth

ylen

e ox

ide)

Solu

bilit

y Di

agra

m

0.0

0.2

0.4

0.6

0.8

1.0

0.0

0.2

0.4

0.6

0.8

1.0

0.0

0.2

0.4

0.6

0.8

1.0

Sol

uble

Sw

olle

n In

solu

ble

f hf p

f d

On

69

Page 70: The Role of Polymers in Cosmetics Formulations: November ......is a polymer made of two different monomers in the same molecular chain. • Terpolymer is a polymer consisting of 3

SCC

SW C

HAPT

ER 1

118

Pol

ymer

s in

Cosm

etics

Poly

(Vin

ylpy

rrol

idon

e)So

lubi

lity

Diag

ram

0.0

0.2

0.4

0.6

0.8

1.0

0.0

0.2

0.4

0.6

0.8

1.0

0.0

0.2

0.4

0.6

0.8

1.0

Sol

uble

Sw

olle

n In

solu

ble

f hf p

f d

NO

n

70

Page 71: The Role of Polymers in Cosmetics Formulations: November ......is a polymer made of two different monomers in the same molecular chain. • Terpolymer is a polymer consisting of 3

SCC

SW C

HAPT

ER 1

118

Pol

ymer

s in

Cosm

etics

Com

posit

e So

lubi

lity

Diag

ram

0.0

0.2

0.4

0.6

0.8

1.0

0.0

0.2

0.4

0.6

0.8

1.0

0.0

0.2

0.4

0.6

0.8

1.0

Sol

uble

Sw

olle

n In

solu

ble

f hf p

f d

NO

n

OO

n

OO

n O

H

n

On

71

Page 72: The Role of Polymers in Cosmetics Formulations: November ......is a polymer made of two different monomers in the same molecular chain. • Terpolymer is a polymer consisting of 3

SCC

SW C

HAPT

ER 1

118

Pol

ymer

s in

Cosm

etics

Hyd

roge

n Bo

ndin

g Pa

ram

eter

(C)

•Spe

ctru

m o

f CH 3

OD in

sa

mpl

e liq

uid

com

pare

d w

ith re

fere

nce

spec

trum

•CH

3OD

in b

enze

ne•

OD

stre

tch:

268

1 cm

-1

•is

the

OD

stre

tch

abso

rptio

n sh

ift (c

m-1

)•N

itrob

enze

ne:

•26

53 cm

-1

•C

= 2.

8

C10

Barto

n, A

.F.M

. H

andb

ook

of S

olub

ility

Par

amet

ers

and

Oth

er C

ohes

ion

Par

amet

ers.

C

RC

Pre

ss: B

oca

Rat

on, F

lorid

a (1

983)

.72

Page 73: The Role of Polymers in Cosmetics Formulations: November ......is a polymer made of two different monomers in the same molecular chain. • Terpolymer is a polymer consisting of 3

SCC

SW C

HAPT

ER 1

118

Pol

ymer

s in

Cosm

etics

H-B

ondi

ng P

aram

eter

(C)

Dia

gram

1214

1618

2022

2426

2830

05101520

C

(MPa

1/2 )

Hyd

roca

rbon

sH

alog

enat

ed H

ydro

carb

ons

Este

rs

Keto

nes

Alco

hols

DM

FD

MSO

CH

3CN

Solv

ents

sel

ecte

d

Barto

n, A

.F.M

. H

andb

ook

of S

olub

ility

Par

amet

ers

and

Oth

er C

ohes

ion

Par

amet

ers.

C

RC

Pre

ss: B

oca

Rat

on, F

lorid

a (1

983)

.73

Page 74: The Role of Polymers in Cosmetics Formulations: November ......is a polymer made of two different monomers in the same molecular chain. • Terpolymer is a polymer consisting of 3

SCC

SW C

HAPT

ER 1

118

Pol

ymer

s in

Cosm

etics

Poly

(-C

apro

lact

one)

H

-bon

ding

Inte

ract

ion

Diag

ram

1214

1618

2022

2426

2830

05101520

c

(MPa

1/2 )

Sol

uble

Sw

olle

n In

solu

ble

OO

n

74

Page 75: The Role of Polymers in Cosmetics Formulations: November ......is a polymer made of two different monomers in the same molecular chain. • Terpolymer is a polymer consisting of 3

SCC

SW C

HAPT

ER 1

118

Pol

ymer

s in

Cosm

etics

Poly

(Lac

tic a

cid)

H

-bon

ding

Inte

ract

ion

Diag

ram

1214

1618

2022

2426

2830

05101520

c

(MPa

1/2 )

Sol

uble

Sw

olle

n In

solu

ble

OO

n

75

Page 76: The Role of Polymers in Cosmetics Formulations: November ......is a polymer made of two different monomers in the same molecular chain. • Terpolymer is a polymer consisting of 3

…bu

t we

also

mus

t con

side

r the

ent

ropy

of

mix

ing…

SCC

SW C

HAPT

ER 1

118

Pol

ymer

s in

Cosm

etics

76

Page 77: The Role of Polymers in Cosmetics Formulations: November ......is a polymer made of two different monomers in the same molecular chain. • Terpolymer is a polymer consisting of 3

SCC

SW C

HAPT

ER 1

118

Pol

ymer

s in

Cosm

etics

77

Page 78: The Role of Polymers in Cosmetics Formulations: November ......is a polymer made of two different monomers in the same molecular chain. • Terpolymer is a polymer consisting of 3

SCC

SW C

HAPT

ER 1

118

Pol

ymer

s in

Cosm

etics

78

Page 79: The Role of Polymers in Cosmetics Formulations: November ......is a polymer made of two different monomers in the same molecular chain. • Terpolymer is a polymer consisting of 3

Conf

igur

atio

nsSC

C SW

CHA

PTER

111

8 P

olym

ers i

n Co

smet

ics79

Page 80: The Role of Polymers in Cosmetics Formulations: November ......is a polymer made of two different monomers in the same molecular chain. • Terpolymer is a polymer consisting of 3

SCC

SW C

HAPT

ER 1

118

Pol

ymer

s in

Cosm

etics

The

Flor

y-H

uggi

ns In

tera

ctio

n Pa

ram

eter

•Flo

ry-H

uggi

ns ca

lcul

ates

the

conf

igur

atio

nal e

ntro

py o

f pla

cing

the

poly

mer

s in

solu

tion

(on

a la

ttice

)•

Then

F-H

det

erm

ines

the

enth

alpi

cco

ntrib

utio

n re

quire

d fo

r m

olec

ular

mix

ing

•Th

is En

thal

py is

the

Flor

y-Hu

ggin

s Int

erac

tion

Para

met

er,

•=i V

(i-j

)2 /RT

•If

<0.5

, the

syst

em w

ill b

e co

mpa

tible

If >2

.0 th

e sy

stem

will

be

inco

mpa

tible

80

Page 81: The Role of Polymers in Cosmetics Formulations: November ......is a polymer made of two different monomers in the same molecular chain. • Terpolymer is a polymer consisting of 3

SCC

SW C

HAPT

ER 1

118

Pol

ymer

s in

Cosm

etics

The

Flor

y-H

uggi

ns In

tera

ctio

n Pa

ram

eter

•Flo

ry-H

uggi

ns ca

lcul

ates

the

conf

igur

atio

nal e

ntro

py o

f pla

cing

the

poly

mer

s in

solu

tion

(on

a la

ttice

)•

Then

F-H

det

erm

ines

the

enth

alpi

c co

ntrib

utio

n re

quire

d fo

r m

olec

ular

mix

ing

•Th

is H

is th

e Fl

ory-

Hugg

ins I

nter

actio

n Pa

ram

eter

, •

=i V(i

-j)2 /

RT•

If <0

.5, t

he sy

stem

will

be

com

patib

le

•If

>2.0

the

syst

em w

ill b

e in

com

patib

le

81

Page 82: The Role of Polymers in Cosmetics Formulations: November ......is a polymer made of two different monomers in the same molecular chain. • Terpolymer is a polymer consisting of 3

SCC

SW C

HAPT

ER 1

118

Pol

ymer

s in

Cosm

etics

Flor

y H

uggi

ns T

heor

y

•Th

e th

erm

odyn

amic

s of p

olym

er so

lubi

lity

are

class

ically

des

crib

ed b

y th

e Fl

ory-

Hugg

ins e

quat

ion:

ΔGm

ix/R

T =

x sol

vent

lnΦ

solv

ent+

x pol

ymer

ln Φ

poly

mer

+ χ

x sol

vent

Φpo

lym

er

•w

here

; ΔGm

ix is

the

free

ener

gy o

f mix

ing

of th

e po

lym

er a

nd so

lven

t•

xsol

vent

is th

e m

ole

fract

ion

of so

lven

t in

the

solu

tion

•xp

olym

er is

the

mol

e fra

ctio

n of

pol

ymer

in th

e so

lutio

n•

Φso

lven

t is t

he v

olum

e fra

ctio

n of

solv

ent i

n th

e so

lutio

n•

Φpo

lym

er is

the

volu

me

fract

ion

of p

olym

er in

the

solu

tion

•χ

is th

e Fl

ory-

Hugg

ins i

nter

actio

n pa

ram

eter

for p

olym

er-s

olve

nt

inte

ract

ion.

82

Page 83: The Role of Polymers in Cosmetics Formulations: November ......is a polymer made of two different monomers in the same molecular chain. • Terpolymer is a polymer consisting of 3

SCC

SW C

HAPT

ER 1

118

Pol

ymer

s in

Cosm

etics

Flor

y-H

uggi

ns T

heor

y

ΔG m

ix/R

T =

x sol

vent

lnΦ

solv

ent

+ x p

olym

erln

Φpo

lym

er

x sol

vent

Φpo

lym

erM

ixin

g En

trop

y co

ntrib

utio

n:Al

way

s fa

vora

ble

to

mix

ing

Mix

ing

Enth

alpy

co

ntrib

utio

n83

Page 84: The Role of Polymers in Cosmetics Formulations: November ......is a polymer made of two different monomers in the same molecular chain. • Terpolymer is a polymer consisting of 3

SCC

SW C

HAPT

ER 1

118

Pol

ymer

s in

Cosm

etics

Flor

y-H

uggi

ns T

heor

y

x sol

vent

Φpo

lym

erM

ixin

g En

thal

py

cont

ribut

ion

poly

mer

and

solv

ent a

re co

mpl

etel

y m

iscib

le o

ver t

he e

ntire

com

posit

ion

rang

e if[

i],[ii

],[iii

], [iv

]:

χ<

½( 1

+ (V

poly

mer

/ Vso

lven

t) -1

/2)2

[i]Fl

ory,

P. J.

“The

rmod

ynam

ics o

f hig

h po

lym

er so

lutio

ns”,

J.Che

m. P

hys.,

194

2, 1

0, 5

1.[ii

]Flo

ry, P

.J.; “

Prin

ciple

s of P

olym

er C

hem

istry

,” Co

rnel

l Uni

vers

ity P

ress

, Ith

aca,

N.Y.

, 195

3.[ii

i]Pa

tters

on, D

; Mac

rom

olec

ules

, 196

9, 2

, 672

[iv]B

arto

n, A

llan,

F. M

.; “H

andb

ook

of S

olub

ility

Par

amet

ers a

nd O

ther

Coh

esio

n Pa

ram

eter

s;

CRC

Pres

s, Bo

ca R

aton

, Flo

rida,

198

3.84

Page 85: The Role of Polymers in Cosmetics Formulations: November ......is a polymer made of two different monomers in the same molecular chain. • Terpolymer is a polymer consisting of 3

SCC

SW C

HAPT

ER 1

118

Pol

ymer

s in

Cosm

etics

Flor

y-H

uggi

ns T

heor

y

•A p

olym

er a

nd so

lven

t sho

uld

be co

mpl

etel

y m

iscib

le if

the

valu

e of

the

Flor

y-Hu

ggin

s in

tera

ctio

n pa

ram

eter

, χ, i

s les

s tha

n 0.

5.

85

Page 86: The Role of Polymers in Cosmetics Formulations: November ......is a polymer made of two different monomers in the same molecular chain. • Terpolymer is a polymer consisting of 3

SCC

SW C

HAPT

ER 1

118

Pol

ymer

s in

Cosm

etics

Draw

back

s of t

he F

lory

-Hug

gins

The

ory

•χ

is no

t a co

nsta

nt; i

t var

ies w

ith p

olym

er co

ncen

tratio

n an

d te

mpe

ratu

re.

•χ

can

not b

e ea

sily

foun

d ex

perim

enta

lly.

•χ

is ch

arac

teris

tic o

f onl

y a

poly

mer

-sol

vent

pai

r and

it is

not

eas

ily e

xten

ded

to

mul

ticom

pone

nt fo

rmul

atio

ns.

•χ

is no

t a si

mpl

e te

rm; i

t has

to b

e m

odifi

ed to

inclu

de te

rms f

or m

olec

ular

or

ient

atio

n an

d sp

ecifi

c bin

ding

such

as h

ydro

gen

bond

ing.

•If

the

syst

em b

ecom

es m

ore

orde

red

whe

n a

solu

tion

is fo

rmed

, χca

n ha

ve

anom

alou

s lar

ge p

ositi

ve va

lues

.•

Fina

lly, c

lass

ical F

lory

-Hug

gins

theo

ry ca

n no

t exp

lain

the

fact

that

pol

ymer

so

lutio

ns ca

n se

para

te in

to tw

o ph

ases

upo

n he

atin

g or

cool

ing

beyo

nd ce

rtai

n cr

itica

l tem

pera

ture

s.3 [i][

ii]•

This

is es

peci

ally

per

tinen

t for

ther

mo-

asso

ciativ

e po

lym

ers.

•[i]

Patte

rson

, D.;

“The

rmod

ynam

ics o

f non

-dilu

tee

poly

mer

solu

tions

”; R

ubbe

r Ch

em. T

echn

ol.,

1967

, 40,

1.

•[ii

]Pat

ters

on, D

., De

lmas

, G.;

Som

cyns

ky, T

; “A

Com

paris

on o

f low

er cr

itica

l so

lutio

n te

mpe

ratu

res o

f som

e po

lym

er so

lutio

ns”,

Poly

mer

, 196

7, 8

, 503

.

86

Page 87: The Role of Polymers in Cosmetics Formulations: November ......is a polymer made of two different monomers in the same molecular chain. • Terpolymer is a polymer consisting of 3

Gen

eral

ized

Phas

e Di

agra

m fo

r a

Poly

mer

in S

olut

ion

SCC

SW C

HAPT

ER 1

118

Pol

ymer

s in

Cosm

etics

87

Bin

odal

Page 88: The Role of Polymers in Cosmetics Formulations: November ......is a polymer made of two different monomers in the same molecular chain. • Terpolymer is a polymer consisting of 3

Tie

Line

s

SCC

SW C

HAPT

ER 1

118

Pol

ymer

s in

Cosm

etics

88

XY

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SCC

SW C

HAPT

ER 1

118

Pol

ymer

s in

Cosm

etics

Free

Ene

rgy

of M

ixin

g

•A sy

stem

reac

hes c

hem

ical e

quili

briu

m (a

nd th

is in

clud

es p

hase

eq

uilib

ria) w

hen

the

free

ener

gy o

f the

syst

em re

ache

s a m

inim

um.

•Th

e ch

ange

in G

ibbs

free

ene

rgy

(ΔG)

is re

late

d to

the

chan

ges i

n en

thal

py (Δ

H) a

nd e

ntro

py (Δ

S) o

f a p

roce

ss a

t tem

pera

ture

, T, b

y th

e fa

mili

ar e

quat

ion:

ΔG =

ΔH

–T

ΔS•P

hase

sepa

ratio

n be

low

the

UCST

requ

ires a

sign

ifica

nt n

egat

ive

enth

alpy

of m

ixin

g, a

nd p

hase

sepa

ratio

n ab

ove

the

LCST

requ

ires

both

a n

egat

ive

enth

alpy

and

ent

ropy

of m

ixin

g.

89

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SCC

SW C

HAPT

ER 1

118

Pol

ymer

s in

Cosm

etics

Cond

ition

s for

M

iscib

ility

and

Pha

se S

epar

atio

n

The

Exc

ess

Free

Ene

rgy

and

Pha

se S

epar

atio

n

Pol

ymer

con

cent

ratio

n

exce

ssG

mix

One

-pha

se

Pol

ymer

con

cent

ratio

n

exce

ssG

mix

Two-

phas

eA

B

C1

C2

X

(a)

(b)

The

exce

ss fr

ee e

nerg

y as

a fu

nctio

n of

pol

ymer

conc

entr

atio

n fo

r (a)

a

misc

ible

solu

tion

and

(b)

a ph

ase-

sepa

rate

d sy

stem

90

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SCC

SW C

HAPT

ER 1

118

Pol

ymer

s in

Cosm

etics

Met

asta

ble

Equi

libria

and

Ther

mal

Gel

ling

Diff

usio

n O

bsta

cles

to P

hase

Sep

arat

ion

Pol

ymer

co

ncen

trat

ion

exce

ssG

mix

Tw

o-ph

ase

AB

C 1

C 2X

Infle

ctio

n po

int

Diffu

sion

to p

hase

sepa

ratio

ndi

sfav

ored

Diffu

sion

to p

hase

sepa

ratio

nfa

vore

d

Expl

oded

vie

w o

f a se

gmen

t of t

he fr

ee e

nerg

y cu

rve

show

ing

the

infle

ctio

n po

int.

91

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SCC

SW C

HAPT

ER 1

118

Pol

ymer

s in

Cosm

etics

Spin

odal

s an

d Bi

noda

ls S

pino

dalD

ecom

posi

tion

Poly

mer

Con

cent

ratio

n

Tem

p.

LCS

T

UC

ST

This

locu

s of

po

ints

defin

esth

e sp

inod

al

Spi

noda

lD

ecom

posi

tion

Reg

ions

92

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SCC

SW C

HAPT

ER 1

118

Pol

ymer

s in

Cosm

etics

Spin

odal

s an

d Bi

noda

ls S

pino

dalD

ecom

posi

tion

Poly

mer

Con

cent

ratio

n

Tem

p.

LCS

T

UC

ST

This

locu

s of

po

ints

defin

esth

e sp

inod

al

Spi

noda

lD

ecom

posi

tion

Reg

ions

Diffu

sion

driv

en

phas

e se

para

tion

favo

red

Diffu

sion

has

to g

o up

hill

agai

nst

Chem

ical

pote

ntia

l

93

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SCC

SW C

HAPT

ER 1

118

Pol

ymer

s in

Cosm

etics

Sum

mar

y of

Po

lym

er S

olub

ility

The

orie

s

•Flo

ry –

Hugg

ins a

ttem

pts t

o in

clude

ent

ropy

of m

ixin

g•

It is

diffi

cult

to ca

lcula

te th

e to

tal e

ntro

py o

f mix

ing

for p

olym

er so

lutio

ns a

nd

blen

ds•

But F

lory

-Hug

gins

The

ory

is us

eful

for c

once

ptua

l und

erst

andi

ng

•Sol

ubili

ty P

aram

eter

theo

ry co

nsid

ers o

nly

enth

alpy

of m

ixin

g•

But i

t is u

sefu

l pra

ctica

lly a

nd re

lativ

ely

easy

to u

se•

if th

e in

tera

ctio

ns a

re d

ivid

ed in

to d

isper

sion,

pol

ar a

nd h

ydro

gen

bond

ing

94

Page 95: The Role of Polymers in Cosmetics Formulations: November ......is a polymer made of two different monomers in the same molecular chain. • Terpolymer is a polymer consisting of 3

Poly

mer

Cha

ins

The

Basic

s

SCC

SW C

HAPT

ER 1

118

Pol

ymer

s in

Cosm

etics

95

Page 96: The Role of Polymers in Cosmetics Formulations: November ......is a polymer made of two different monomers in the same molecular chain. • Terpolymer is a polymer consisting of 3

The

Fund

amen

tal P

aram

eter

s

C1

C2

C3

C4

(RO

TAT

ION

AL

AN

GL

E)

( hin

dran

ce a

ngle

)

aB

ond

leng

th

SCC

SW C

HAPT

ER 1

118

Pol

ymer

s in

Cosm

etics

96

Page 97: The Role of Polymers in Cosmetics Formulations: November ......is a polymer made of two different monomers in the same molecular chain. • Terpolymer is a polymer consisting of 3

The

Fund

amen

tal P

aram

eter

s

C1

C2

C3

C4

(RO

TAT

ION

AL

AN

GL

E)

( hin

dran

ce a

ngle

)

aB

ond

leng

th

SCC

SW C

HAPT

ER 1

118

Pol

ymer

s in

Cosm

etics

97

Page 98: The Role of Polymers in Cosmetics Formulations: November ......is a polymer made of two different monomers in the same molecular chain. • Terpolymer is a polymer consisting of 3

The

Fund

amen

tal P

aram

eter

s

C1

C2

C3

C4

(RO

TAT

ION

AL

AN

GL

E)

( hin

dran

ce a

ngle

)

aB

ond

leng

th

SCC

SW C

HAPT

ER 1

118

Pol

ymer

s in

Cosm

etics

98

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Dilu

te S

olut

ions

, c’

•The

pol

ymer

chai

n be

have

s as a

smal

l sph

ere

•a

singl

e bl

ob, w

ith ra

dius

, r•E

xam

ple:

•Ea

ch p

olym

er ch

ain

is an

isol

ated

chai

n at

c’•

The

leng

th sc

ale

Lis r

epre

sent

ed b

y th

e ra

dius

rand

is e

qual

to th

e co

rrel

atio

n le

ngth

, •

ther

efor

e, r

=

•th

e co

ils a

re se

para

te fr

om o

ne a

noth

er

SCC

SW C

HAPT

ER 1

118

Pol

ymer

s in

Cosm

etics

99

Page 100: The Role of Polymers in Cosmetics Formulations: November ......is a polymer made of two different monomers in the same molecular chain. • Terpolymer is a polymer consisting of 3

Sem

idilu

te S

olut

ions

•As c

once

ntra

tion

incr

ease

s•

blob

s ove

rlap

•ch

ains

inte

ract

and

inte

rpen

etra

te•A

bove

c*•

coils

bec

ome

enta

ngle

d an

d fo

rm a

net

wor

k of

mes

h •

isth

e di

stan

ce b

etw

een

two

enta

ngle

men

t poi

nts

SCC

SW C

HAPT

ER 1

118

Pol

ymer

s in

Cosm

etics

100