the real south africa

A SPECIAL SUPPLEMENT INASSOCIATION WITH

A DIARY OF CULTURE ANDSPORT MOUTHWATERINGCUISINE SOUTH AFRICAN

WINERIES SEE THE BIG FIVEON SAFARI A GUIDE FOR

THRILL-SEEKERS THE TOP GOLF COURSES

CHILL OUT IN A SPA

September 2009

THE REALSOUTH AFRICA

Mount Nelson HotelCape Town

Mount Nelson Hotel is Cape Town’s legendary luxury resort

and the hotel of choice of discerning global travellers since

1899. Conveniently located within the city’s cultural centre,

ideally situated for guests to explore the heart of the city, the

V&A Waterfront and the Atlantic Seaboard’s pristine beaches,

the sprawling garden estate setting is an urban sanctuary.

Two heated swimming pools, rolling lawns, a palms and rose gardens

lend themselves to romance, and abundant space makes families feel

at home. Seven distinctive accommodation wings offer a variety of 201

individually styled, elegantly appointed rooms and suites.

A world famous Afternoon Tea buffet takes place daily in the hotel lounge

and is a not to be missed experience, and Planet Champagne and

Cocktail Bar is an idyllic sundowner spot, popular with the slick set.

Librisa Spa is a destination day spa boasting eight oversized treatment

and shower rooms, manicure and pedicure rooms, and a sun-splashed

conservatory. Treatments are based on the healing power of touch and

incorporate local product ranges.

www.mountnelson.co.za

The Westcliff HotelJohannesburg

Set on the historic Westcliff Ridge amongst flowering gardens with

meandering pathways, the Westcliff Hotel provides spectacular

views across the lush forested suburbs of Johannesburg and the

Zoological Gardens.

As one of Johannesburg’s most iconic hotels, The Westcliff offers 115

individually decorated and spacious rooms and suites, including thirty

executive rooms which are dedicated exclusively to its business guests. In

addition, all rooms and public areas also have wireless Broadband connectivity.

But the Westcliff is also a haven for families, with personalised children’s

amenities and other child-friendly services. These include babysitting and

‘turndown’ bedtime stories with hot milk, as well as cots, baby baths, bottle

warmers, movies and children’s menus.

Leisure facilities at The Westcliff Hotel include two heated swimming pools, a

floodlit tennis court, a fully-equipped modern gym and the Botanica Spa. It also

has a complimentary Business Centre as well as excellent Conference and

Banqueting facilities.

Dining and drinking options include the Polo Bar, vibrant and buzzing from

morning until late at night, and the adjacent pool deck which is a must for

afternoon tea and sundowners. In addition, the La Belle Terrasse restaurant

offers a beautiful terraced setting in which you can enjoy the best of South

Africa’s local produce.

And if that’s not enough, the hotel also offers a frequent complimentary

shuttle service to neighbouring restaurants, bars, cafes,

cinemas, galleries, shops and business hubs.

www.westcliff.co.za

Legendary Luxury andIconic Elegance

SEPTEMBER 2009 2 AFTERHOURS 3

It’s almost impossible to leave South Africadisappointed. Over the following pages you’ll find outwhy. It’s a truly diverse country, not just in terms ofculture and heritage (the townships are as much a part ofthe experience as the safaris), but also in its immenselyvaried natural terrain and range of activities. Even ourchief journalist for this guide, who left the UK to live andwork in South Africa some years ago, is still intoxicatedby everything there is to see and do there.

On a recent trip to the bush, for instance, sherapturously reported back on how she’d seen a lionessflirting with a male, and then saw a whole pride up close,including five male cubs. Beat that, BBC Big Cat Diary.

It’s no wonder that South Africa is so popular—it’s anaffordable, all-year destination and just two hours ahead ofGreenwich Mean Time, so no bothersome jet lag. And it hassomething for everyone—from cosmopolitan cities suchas Johannesburg, and the chic waterfront bars of CapeTown to fascinating architecture, fine beaches and bush.

And though we’re all buzzing about the World Cup inJune and July 2010, there’s plenty more sport andadventure to get involved in, including year-round golf,hiking, or just exercising your taste buds in thewinelands. We hope this guide inspires you to discoverthe real South Africa for yourselves.

Amy Duff, Deputy Editor

Contents

>Group Editor Richard Cree >Deputy Editors Amy Duff, David Woodward >Art Director John Poile >Sub Editor Robert Sly >Associate Editors SarahHanson, Tina Nielsen >Editorial Assistant Elizabeth Knights-Ward >Contributors Lesley Malachowski, Claire Coleman, Hugo Rose

>Advertising Director Jo Appleyard >Advertising Manager Ben Hammond >Client Sales Manager Fiona O’Mahony >Senior Sales Manager TanuKurien >Production Manager Lisa Robertson >Production Controller Emma Bowen >Chief Operating Officer Andrew Main Wilson

Published by Director Publications Ltd for the Institute of Directors, 116 Pall Mall, London, SW1Y 5ED.Opinions expressed do not necessarily reflect IoD policy. The IoD accepts no responsibility for views expressed by contributors.Editorial 020 7766 8950 [email protected] Advertising 020 7766 8900 [email protected] Production 020 7766 8960 [email protected] Subscriptions 020 7766 8866

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For more After Hours content visit www.director.co.uk/afterhours

4 WHAT’S ONYour guide to the main sporting and cultural events in 2009 and 2010

8 FOODFrom Michelin-star dining to barbecues under the stars, we discover what South African food is all about and pick some of the best places to eat it

10 WINEFine wining and dining is popular in the lush valleys around Franschhoek,Paarl and Stellenbosch, but there are gems off the beaten track, too

12 WILDLIFEIt has some world-renowned safari destinations, but there’s more to South Africa’s animal kingdom than the Big Five.The whale-watching isn’t bad, either

16 ADVENTUREWe seek out six of the best thrills in the adventure capital of the world

17 GOLFThe great weather means golfers can enjoy their sport all year round. From courses located near national parks to those by the sea, the choice is immense

18 WELLNESSIt’s not all about the adrenaline rush and getting active outdoors—we guide you to the best spas and treatments to help you unwind and relax

4 THE REAL SOUTH AFRICA 2 SEPTEMBER 2009

SportOctober 3-12 Bloemfontein, Free State The Macufe Festival As well as music,theatre and arts and crafts, this festival alsoincludes highly popular football and golftournaments. Infectious fun for all.November 13 Johannesburg, Gauteng Cricket Before the 2010 Fifa World Cup inJune (see page 6 for dates) it’s cricket season.From October to April, the England team willplay two Twenty20 internationals, five one-

day internationals and four Test matchesduring their tour of South Africa.The firstTwenty20 international against South Africa ison November 13. Having already played theAussies, it promises to be an exciting tour.November 20 Johannesburg, Gauteng Cricket: First one-day international, SouthAfrica versus England.December 16 SuperSport Park, Centurion Cricket: The eagerly anticipated first Testbetween South Africa and England.

Travel informationGETTING THEREOR Tambo InternationalAirport in Johannesburg isSouth Africa’s major air hub.It is serviced by more than 70airlines, including thenational carrier, South AfricanAirways. Cape Town Airport also receives a limited number ofinternational flights.

WHEN TO GOSouth Africa’s seasons are thereverse of the northernhemisphere. Spring starts inlate August and summer inNovember. Winters aregenerally mild. The best timeto go on safari is June toSeptember (dry season); forrafting, pick December toFebruary (rainy season); andto go whale watching June toDecember is ideal.

HEALTHMost of the main touristdestinations are malaria-free,making it a good destinationto travel to with children.Typhoid and injectionsagainst hepatitis A and B areboth recommended.

CURRENCYThe rand is divided into 100cents. Due to favourableexchange rates, South Africa iscurrently an affordable traveldestination.

VISASVisitors from most westernEuropean countries, Japanand the US don’t require visasas long as their stay doesn’texceed 30-90 days (variable).

SAFETYAs recommended in mostcountries, especially in bigcities, travellers should takecommon-sense safetyprecautions. For instance,don’t carry a camera openlyin cities; don't carry largesums of money about; don'tput your wallet in your backtrouser pocket; and don'tleave valuables unattended.

LANGUAGEEnglish is one of 11 officiallanguages and is widelyspoken across the country.Learning how to say “hello”in the local language is anobvious way to engage.

CONTACTSouthern Africa [email protected]+44 (0) 1483 428 162

2009-2010Dazzling dates for your diary


WWHHAATT’’SS OONN

March 14 Cape Town,Western Cape Cape Argus Cycle Challenge You don’t haveto live in South Africa to take to your bikewith more than 35,000 other cyclists on the109-kilometre tour through Cape Town andthe Peninsula. A must for keen cyclists.June See page 6 for 2010 Fifa World Cup details

NatureSeptember 24-27 Hermanus, Western CapeHermanus Whale Festival Every year,southern right whales travel thousands ofmiles to the Cape to mate and calve in thebays. Join Hermanus locals for what they say isthe world’s best land-based whale watching.September Namaqua National Park,NamaqualandNamaqua Spring Flowers From July to theend of September, visitors to the vastNamakwa region get to see the previouslyrugged wide-open plains and rocky outcropsexplode with colourful wildflowers. Starting inthe Sandveld strip around Springbok andSteinkopf to the west, move eastwardstowards the mountainous areas.

Rocking the Daisies Three days of livebands, DJ sessions and art performancesattract festival-goers more at home in a tentthan a hotel. Just an hour’s drive from CapeTown, there’s more than just music, withcomedy, cinema, a gaming arena and theatrealso on the programme.November 19-21 Ficksburg, Free StateFicksburg Cherry FestivalWhat attracts around 20, 000 visitors to thissmall town every November? The scenery ismagnificent, but the area’s cherries are themain draw.Visitors get to enjoy cherry andasparagus tastings, tours, picnics, music, andcompetitions. Cherry pie, anyone?From December Kirstenbosch National Botanical Gardens, Western CapeKirstenbosch Summer Concerts Heldwithin spectacular botanical gardens, theseoutdoor concerts take place every Sundayfrom December until April.They’re specialmainly thanks to the breathtaking setting.Part of the charm also lies in the warm,friendly and relaxed atmosphere, withconcertgoers picnicking on the grass banksthat slope downwards towards the stage.Thecandlelight performances are magical.From December 12 Mossel Bay, Western CapeThe Summersun Festival The biggest eventof its kind in South Africa attracts more thanone million visitors a year. From food, wine,beauty competitions and live music, to touchrugby and star-spotting, most bases arecovered.This festival is based at the DiazStrand Hotel & Resort until January 3, 2010.From February 20, 2010 Cape Town,Western Cape Cape Town Pride Thousands flock to thisgay festival each year to enjoy everythingfrom drag pageants and beach parties toplays, poetry, film and book events. Over 10days, the variety of activities is immense. Ahighlight is the full-moon hike up TableMountain. And there are lots of lively debatesfor those who want to exercise their brain.April, 2010 Cape Town, Western CapeCape Town International Jazz FestivalThis annual festival promotes the best inSouth African and international jazz music.Since 2000 it has been bringing internationaland local artists to perform over two days onfive stages.With its workshops andoutstanding music performances it’s now animportant event in the world jazz calendar.

September 25-27 Simon’s Town,Western CapePenguin Festival Since an influx of Africanpenguins in the mid-1980s, the residents oftranquil Simon’s Town have chosen tocelebrate their presence rather than evictthem.This popular festival places a bigemphasis on conservation.There areinteractive environmental displays, artexhibitions and children’s activities.

FestivalsSeptember 24-27 Drakensberg, KwaZulu-NatalWhite Mountain Folk Festival For acousticmusic lovers everywhere, the annual White

Mountain Folk Festival is held near Giant’sCastle in the idyllic Central Drakensbergregion of KwaZulu-Natal.There areperformances by well known and up-and-coming South African artists, while otherattractions include hiking, boating andfishing, arts and crafts, a beer market, assortedfood stalls and children’s entertainment.September 24-27 University ofJohannesburg, Soweto Campus, GautengSoweto Festival While this event celebratesold local traditions, its main purpose is toempower young people. Held around SouthAfrica’s Heritage Day, there are artperformances, including music, comedy,poetry readings and storytelling as well ashealth and beauty areas and fashion shows.October 9-11 Cloof Wine Estate, Western Cape

Hot tickets:Siphokazi, left, the

First Lady of Afro-pop, performs

at the MacufeFestival in

Bloemfontein inOctober. Top:

Wanderers Stadiumin Johannesburg

hosts the firstone-day

internationalbetween South

Africa and Englandon November 20.

Below: whalewatchers at

Hermanus, wherea festival is heldevery September


WWHHAATT’’SS OONN

to watch the coverage on TV.The hosts arePretoria, Polokwane, Durban, Port Elizabeth,Cape Town, Johannesburg, Bloemfontein,Nelspruit and Rustenburg.

Five major stadiums are being renovatedfor the finals—Soccer City (the jewel in SouthAfrica’s crown, with a 94,700 capacity), andEllis Park in Johannesburg; Loftus Versfeld inPretoria; Rustenburg’s Royal BafokengStadium; and the Free State Stadium inBloemfontein. Soccer City will host both theopening match and the final on July 11.Thefive new, or rebuilt, arenas are the NelsonMandela Bay in Port Elizabeth; the Mbombelaat Nelspruit; the Peter Mokaba Stadium inPolokwane; the Durban Stadium; and CapeTown’s Green Point.Two multi-sport facilitiesin Cape Town will remain, much like theLondon 2012 Olympic stadiums in east

London, as a legacy to sport development.Tomake sure the event is enjoyed by as manylocals as possible, FIFA will give 120,000 matchtickets on a complimentary basis to low-income South African residents.

South Africans see the tournament as anopportunity to show the world the progressthat the country has made since the end ofapartheid in 1994. And the fans fortunateenough to get their hands on tickets will beable to combine their love of football with anexceptional value for money holiday before orafter the great event to discover the country’sbeauty and attractions.

Southern Africa Travel has a World Cup package:5 nights accommodation at the Pepper Club in aDeluxe Suite + 2 nights at Sanbona WildlifeReserve and car hire throughout.Costs from £1,899.00 per person sharing.Contact +44 (0) 1483 425 533 or visitwww.southernafricatravel.co.uk

coverage of 32 teams playing in 64 matches,including heavyweights such as holders Italyand legendary five-time winners Brazil, as wellas the “minnows”. South Africa (or BafanaBafana) were joined in June by Japan,Australia, South Korea, North Korea and theNetherlands. If England—top of World CupGroup Six—beat Croatia on September 9,they’re through to the finals as well.

The nine host cities across eight provincesare preparing themselves for an influx ofaround half a million football fans not content

Remember the moment when London beatParis to host the 2012 Olympic andParalympic Games? There were jubilantcelebrations across the country. SouthAfricans were similarly ecstatic when it wasannounced that their country would play hostto the 2010 FIFA World Cup.

On June 11 next year the sportingspectacle that is the FIFA World Cup finalsbegins in South Africa. It’s the first time thatthe finals have been played on the continent.And if the recent Confederations Cup successis anything to go by, visiting fans from aroundthe world can expect a month-long carnivalof football.The countdown has begun.

Held once every four years, hundreds ofmillions of fans around the world enjoy TV

2010 FIFA World Cup

Carnival of football:the iconic Soccer Cityin Johannesburg,below, will host theWorld Cup final.Right: the newDurban Stadium

ADVERTISEMENT FEATURE

service is provided within the price, which startsat £1,200 for a fortnight. Worldwide Experiencealso guides volunteers with selecting the mostsuitable placement. And it will assist those whoneed help with travel arrangements and offeradvice on sponsorship and fundraising options.

Volunteers, most of whom come from theUK, are attracted to the project for a variety ofreasons. Some are conservation enthusiasts;others are seeking a different way to spend theirsummer break. But for everyone, the experienceof being involved in the preservation andmaintenance of the reserve and its animalpopulation is extremely fulfilling. All leaveimbued with a new outlook on the environment,an expanded set of life skills and, often, newfriendships that have taken root along the way.

The Shamwari volunteer placement projectis the largest programme offered by Worldwide Experience in South Africa, but thereare other options. These include a 16-day VetsGo Wild veterinary medicine programme, theTiger Shark Research Programme, based at theAliwal Shoal Marine Protected Area in KwaZulu-Natal and the Ocean Research ConservationAfrica Marine Foundation’s ongoingdevelopment of a “marine park”, which

A truly rewarding way to taste SouthAfrica is to become involved in aconservation programme or community

project. Worldwide Experience has developedseveral such initiatives that are available toanyone aged 17 and over.

At Shamwari Game Reserve in the EasternCape, game are being continually monitored andintroduced. Conservation volunteers assist itswildlife department, which holds the GlobalNature Fund Award for Best ConservationPractice. Typical tasks include predator, elephantand rhino identification, game monitoring andcounts, alien vegetation clearing andinfrastructure maintenance, such as mendingfences and upgrading roads.

The department is headed by leadingconservationist Dr Johan Joubert, who treats thereserve’s animals at the recently opened animalhospital. Volunteers also help with the care ofthese species and can observe operations anddarting procedures.

There are only 20 volunteers on theprogramme at any one time, and they can booka stay of between two weeks and three months,although the ideal length is regarded as beingsix weeks. Accommodation, meals and a laundry

GETTING INVOLVED Worldwide Experiencewww.worldwideexperience.com

01483 860560

[email protected]

Experience the raw beauty of SouthAfrica by volunteering on a gamereserve.You’ll acquire new life skills andhelp protect remarkable wildlife

encompasses several initiatives around thesustainability of resources within the PlettenbergBay area.

Volunteers can combine conservation workwith creativity at the Wildlife Film Academy, atNzikazi, a tented wilderness camp in the southof Kruger National Park. And, for the not soadventurous, there is a sculpture course run byBruce Little, a veteran conservationist who’snow a photographer and sculptor.

For people wanting to focus on communityprojects, Worldwide Experience partners withWilling Workers in South Africa (WWISA),which is a community-focused group based inKurland, in the Eastern Cape. The organisationrelies on outside helpers to assist withcommunity services, such as health clinics,education provision and skills development.

GIVING SOMETHING BACK


SSouth Africans are passionate about manythings—sport, music, the naturalenvironment, and even theirconstitution. But they are especially

enthusiastic about food. And, it is easy to seewhy. Historically, the influx of foreign cuisineshas been linked to the country’s development.

Spices attracted the Dutch in droves in themid-16th century. And, when the Dutch EastIndia Company wanted a resting stage for itslong-haul ships, the large farm it planted forthat purpose at the tip of the southern coast setthe nation on course for the great wealth ofdifferent menus that are now offered by SouthAfrican restaurants.

The workers brought in to the farmintroduced their own cuisines, most famouslythe Cape Malay, with its sumptuous fruitycurries. Add to the mix, the French Huguenotsand their ingenious ways of planting vines, theBritish in search of gold, and the Indianlabourers required by the sugar cane farms, and

Moroccan, Portuguese, Greek, Brazilian,Congolese, Korean, Vietnamese and Swissdishes of high quality. In recent years, highlyacclaimed international chefs such as GordonRamsay have flocked to the major cities, addingnew layers of creativity and expertise to analready vibrant food culture. Even better, eatingout is good value and affordable thanks to thefavourable exchange rate at the moment .

A country that did not have a grip on its ownculinary identity would have long ago beenoverwhelmed by these overseas influences. Butat the centre of all the variety on offer, there isa strong tradition of indigenous cooking—bothAfrican and Afrikaner. Visitors should try tosample both. African dishes include pap, (stiff

WORLD ON A PLATEYou can’t separate history from cuisine in the rainbow nation.Lesley Malachowski guides you through a richly varied menu

a clearer picture emerges as to why SouthAfrica’s history is bound up with food.

And, it is still embellishing this picture. Plantyour feet in some parts of Johannesburg, andwithin walking distance you will be able to find restaurants serving Chinese, Japanese,

Glorious food: fish bobotie, above, is a favourite CapeMalay curry, while Boerewors sausage and mushrooms,right, are classic ingredients of any successful barbecue


FFOOOODD

corn meal mix), a staple food; morogo (Africanspinach); and amadumbe (a potato-like tuber).They can be sampled in an authentic ethnicsetting, such as Wandies Place in Soweto, or inone of the city restaurants, such as Africa Caféin Cape Town. Watch out, too, for creativecombinations of international and traditionalAfrican ingredients such as the Zulu sushiserved at Bean Bag Bohemia in Durban.

Afrikaner food is closely linked to hunting(all kinds of game, with the accent onspringbok, kudu, and various kinds of hung andcured meat); fishing (look out for the catch ofthe day, tagged as “line fish” on the menu,shellfish, or the delicious crayfish); and farming(Boerewors—a spicy, hand-made farm sausage).Expect to find all of these foods cooked toperfection on the braais, or barbecues, thatevery South African seems to have been bornknowing how to use.

The country is famous for its hospitality, so ifa local invites you to “a braai”, prepare yourselffor a feast of good food and entertainment,washed down by copious amounts of alcohol.Restaurants across the country like to servefresh ingredients (gastronomes appreciate theexceptional quality of the food), butincreasingly they are turning towards localproduce and seasonal menus. The superb winelists are also being refined to take this intoaccount. First-time visitors will soon find thatthey have discovered a food utopia.

CAPE TOWNLa ColombeAward-winning La Colombe at Constantia Uitsig issituated 20 minutes away from Cape Town on aworking wine farm in the Constantia Valley and isfamous for its excellent mix of classic andcontemporary French cuisine. Executive chef LukeDale-Roberts has recently added some Asianinfluences that have led to further accolades in 2009,including three stars in the prestigious Rossouw’sRestaurants guide.

mazeMaze, at the One&Only hotel, is Gordon Ramsay’s firstrestaurant in Africa. It showcases local seafood andtraditional South African recipes, including game aswell as fresh organic farm produce. Overseen byaward-winning chef Jason Atherton, it has SouthAfrica’s only imported American broiler.

FRANSCHHOEKReuben’sA popular place for an al fresco lunch, the varied menuincludes signature dishes such as salmon fish cakes,steak and frites with sauce béarnaise, and chilli saltedsquid. Award-winning chef Reuben Riffel has created amodern, airy diner with a regularly changing menuthat makes use of locally sourced, seasonalingredients. Portions are generous, prices are modest.

DURBANHarvey’sAn institution in Durban, Harvey’s is the place to go ifyou like your decor flamboyant and arty and yourflavours mixed up and exotic.The menu groups dishesby price (great value, by the way) and encouragessharing.The wine list is extensive and the staff areattentive and knowledgable.Well worth a visit.

The Cargo HoldIf it’s a novel dining experience you’re looking for,head to the Phantom Ship in uShaka Marina. A glasstank forms one of the walls to a shark aquarium soyou’ll be eating your food against a pretty uniquebackdrop. Opt for the seafood—the flaming prawnsand shellfish grill and platters tend to score highly.

JOHANNESBURGThe Butcher Shop & GrillIdeally located on Nelson Mandela Square in SandtonCity, this restaurant is a popular meeting place forlocals and tourists alike. It celebrates the South Africanfood heritage of braaivleis and biltong—alfrescobarbecuing and snacking on dried salted meat.Withits prime-cut beef, ostrich fillets and venison pies, it’s ameat-eater’s heaven. But along with the rest of thenation’s food industry, it still caters for vegetarians.

RootsWith its unique and beautifully crafted combination ofwood and glass, Roots, on the Letamo Game Farm, 40minutes outside Johannesburg, immediately creates asoothing, natural atmosphere. Its menu pays tribute toAfrican and Asian influences that are then blendedwith French cuisine.This results in dishes that arecommonly described as “soulful” and “passionate”.

Where to eat…


WINE

IIcannot recall a single visitor toSouth Africa’s wine regionswho has not returned enthusingover the sheer beauty of the

vineyards. The landscape isstunning—picturesque mountainranges, swooping valleys and,close to the coast, the blue shadesof not one but two oceans. Factorin the vines’ lush deep greenduring summer, vast open skiesand the exotic fynbos flora, and avisual feast is in store.

Fifteen years after the rebirth ofthe nation, the wines themselveshave come of age, offering atasting experience to match themajesty of the countryside. Theonce-experimental plantings ofsauvignon blanc, viognier andshiraz now stand shoulder toshoulder with the long-established

be sure to establish your preferreditinerary in advance.

So which are the best “winefarms” to visit? One basic ruleshould be borne in mind: if thecellar is large enough to cope withbus-sized groups, then the winesare likely to be mainstreamcommercial offerings, probablyalready available in UKsupermarkets. Self-directed toursare more satisfying, offering a realsense of discovery of the greatwines on offer and, occasionally,the prospect of getting to know awinery at the dawn of itscommercial life. Conversely, manysmall producers can trace theirroots back through two andsometimes three centuries.

A logical starting point is theCape Winemakers Guild(www.capewinemakersguild.com),a producer association comprisingmany of the Cape’s most respectednames. The guild’s roster of 37members includes Beyerskloof

varieties of cabernet sauvignon,merlot, pinotage, chardonnay andchenin blanc. Export success,driven in part by the favourableexchange rate of the rand againsteven the pound, has given thesector renewed confidence and thebenefits of both economic andsocial development are tangible.

Wineries themselves areembracing the visitor, even thesmallest offering structuredtastings and picnic areas, thelarger outfits equipped withrespectable restaurants. Localauthorities have established clearlymarked Wine Routes to steer

Spectacular scenery, a warm welcome at the cellardoor and good-value vintages… master of wineHugo Rose samples the best Cape vineyards

visitors, tasting room openinghours are signalled on producers’websites and a homely welcome ison offer at many a cellar door. Asmall charge may be made for thetasting, but its cost will be quicklyoffset as most restaurants allowyou to bring your own bottle.

A little basic planning is neededto enjoy deep access to the heartof the wine country. You will needa good road map of the WesternCape and an up-to-date copy ofJohn Platter’s South African Wines,but little more. If you don’t wantto drive, then hire a registeredwine guide for a day or more, but

CAPE CRUSADERS

AADDVVEERRTTIISSEEMMEENNTT FFEEAATTUURREE

(www.beyerskloof.co.za), aprominent exponent of pinotage,South Africa’s distinctive home-grown variety. Look out for Diesel,its new high-end bottling.

Jordan (www.jordanwines.com)is stunningly located with views ofTable Mountain and False Baywhile Hartenberg(www.hartenbergestate.com), inthe Bottelary Hills 10 miles northof Stellenbosch, can chartwinegrowing on the property backto 1700. The winery oozestranquillity, with a wetlands trailand a garden in which the estate’s

cold lunch (pre-ordering essential)can be enjoyed.

Other members includeSimonsig, Boekenhoutskloof,Thelema, Waterford, Kanonkop, ineffect the aristocracy of the Cape’swine industry. Grangehurst(www.grangehurst.co.za) offers aself-catering, gîte-style cottage inaddition to tastings.

The larger wineries should notbe ignored. Vergelegen and Spier

offer a visual treat for visitors andhigh-quality wines. Andenthusiasts would not want tomiss tasting at Meerlust, whoseBordeaux-inspired Rubicon is acelebrated South African wine.

The Cape winelands lie withinthe Cape Floral Kingdom, one ofthe world’s richest plant regions,and many wineries subscribe tothe Biodiversity & Wine Initiative,a conservation programme linkedto sustainable winegrowing.

Ethical trading is high on theagenda, too, with top producerssupporting educational and health

projects for their employees. Thereis a small but growing band ofmajority-owned wineries. M’hudi(www.mhudi.com), founded in2003 by the Rangaka family, runsa vineyard, with tasting room andcellar, at Koelenhof, betweenStellenbosch and Paarl.

For travel information and advicevisit www.southernafricatravel.co.ukor call +44 (0) 1483 425 533

Top 10 uncorkedFIVE TO TASTE BEFORE YOU GO...2007 Beyerskloof Pinotage £6.992006 M’hudi Wines Merlot £7.992008 Iona Sauvignon Blanc £9.992006 Jordan Winery Cabernet Sauvignon £9.992005 Meerlust Estate Rubicon £21.99

... AND FIVE TO TRY IN SOUTH AFRICA2007 Solms-Delta Lekkerwijn Rosé R71.502007 Warwick First Lady Cabernet Sauvignon R722008 Nitída Cellars Sauvignon Blanc 2008 R83.502001 Vergenoegd Estate Wine (blended) R1622006 Kleine Zalze Family Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon R188

Grape escape:one of theCape’s largestwineries,Vergelegen,offers a visualfeast forvisitors both interms of theDutch Capearchitectureand high-calibre wines

THE TABLE BAY HOTEL does colonialstyle with gracious ease. Its vastreception area sprawls into a double-storey, glass-fronted lounge where highteas are served each afternoon. Freshorchids, soft, oversized sofas, polishedwooden floors and the gentle bustlecreated by the comings and goings ofguests ensure elegance aplenty.

With 329 rooms, the Table Bay isone of Cape Town’s largest hotels and isoften first choice for large groups fromcruise ships, conferences and high-endpackage holidays, as well as privateindividuals.There are three eateries,including the Atlantic restaurant, whichhosts the à la carte dinner and amulticultural breakfast buffet.

Cape Town has more than its fairshare of high-quality accommodation.What sets the Table Bay apart from itscompetitors is, first and foremost, thelocation. Situated at the end of theVictoria & Albert Waterfront, guestscan be in the midst of the waterfrontofferings within minutes. It’s perfect forthose seeking retail therapy, sunsetcruises or wanting to visit historiclandmarks such as Robben Island.

The upmarket beaches at Cliftonand Camps Bay and the TableMountain Aerial Cableway are all easilyreachable within 10-15 minutes. Onthe land side, the view is of theharbour, with the city and Table

CLASS ACT

Cape Town’s elegant Table Bay Hotel blends colonial stylewith easygoing charm and offers unforgettable views

Mountain as the backdrop, and on thesea side the eyeline is dominated bythe stark silhouette of Robben Island,looking deceptively near to shore butwhich is far removed from city life.

Rooms are generously sized and allexude understated opulence. Staff arefriendly and efficient, but unobtrusive.This counts in a city that prides itselfon its laidback attitude.

For further details, call 01491 419 600or visit www.suninternational.com

Star attraction: the Table Bay Hoteloozes opulence and offers sensationalviews of Table Mountain


WILDLIFE

South Africa is a vast country, much ofwhich abounds with natural splendour.Millions of acres of land are preservedfor wildlife conservation. And there are

more than 1,000 private game reserves, as wellas 22 national parks, providing open access toone of the largest animal and bird communitieson the planet.

The national parks offer the most open-ended, and often awe-inspiring, means ofenjoying these riches. Kruger National Park, forexample, allows visitors to drive at their ownpace over its huge 2,600km road network.Alternatively, they can join one of the organisedactivities, such as wildlife drives or bush walks.Kruger has the biggest and most diversewildlife population on the continent, including147 mammal species, 507 types of bird, and

and great white shark) and the most extensivecoastal dune field in the southern hemisphere.

South Africa’s private game reserves delivermore specialised access to wildlife (see pages14-15). One of the largest, Madikwe, on theBotswana border, has entered new territory inthat it is run as a joint venture between thestate, private sector, and local communities. Itslarge, open grasslands and woodlands, brokenup by rocky hills, support more than 60 speciesof mammals, including the “big five”, andaround 300 species of birds.

Established in 1895, Hluhluwe-Imfolozi GameReserve is the oldest game park in Africa andincredibly scenic. The north of the park(Hluhluwe) is rugged and mountainous withforests and grasslands, while the south is opensavannah. If it’s rhinos you’re particularly

114 reptile species. On a smaller scale, NorthWest Province’s Pilanesberg National Park, inan extinct volcano’s crater, enables visitors toview more than 8,000 animals. These includeseveral prides of lions, nearly 100 elephants,and the world’s third-largest white rhino herd.And there are many bush experiences to choosefrom, such as scavenger hides and self-guidedgeological auto-tours.

Moving south-east, the famous AddoElephant National Park in the Eastern Cape, is home to one of the most dense Africanelephant populations worldwide. There areplans to expand Addo into a mega-park thatembraces 296,500 acres of marine reserve aswell as more than 100,000 acres of additionalland. For now, it boasts the “big seven”(elephant, rhino, lion, buffalo, leopard, whale,

South Africa offers a wealth of natural wonders, as Lesley Malachowski discovers for herself

CLOSE ENCOUNT


interested in, this is the park for you—it’s hometo 1,600 white rhino and 370 black rhino,meaning the odds of a sighting are high. It alsocontains the rest of the “big five”.

Shamwari Private Game Reserve in theEastern Cape (see page 7) is one of the world’sleading wildlife sanctuaries. It represents thepinnacle of luxury game viewing, with five-staraccommodation, cuisine, and amenities. Here,also, the staff are dedicated to wildlifeconservation, taking every opportunity todemonstrate its importance to guests.

Luxury and comfort can also be enjoyedwithin the boundaries of the Sabi Sand GameReserve, which houses several smaller privatereserves: Singita, Djuma, MalaMala, Londolozi,Lion Sands, Sabi Sabi, and Ulusaba. All haveexceptional safari lodge accommodation and

catering. The unique game viewing is mademore likely by the absence of fences betweenSabi Sand and Kruger National Park, whichallows animals to roam freely between the two.

With its wealth of natural resources, SouthAfrica offers innovative ways of experiencingthese beyond traditional game viewing, such ashot-air ballooning and treetop tours. And thereare other wonders to discover away from thegame parks, including walking trails, bothcoastal and inland. Walk in Africa operatesguided walks for small groups. Its most populartrek is a five-day hike that starts by ascendingTable Mountain and finishes 60km away atCape Point, covering mountains, forests,beaches and clifftops along the way.

A major offshore tourist attraction is thesouthern right whale. These huge marine

mammals can be viewed close up, either fromthe ocean itself or the cliffs surrounding thebays in which they like to shelter. Hermanus, inthe Western Cape, is the country’s whale-watching capital, and holds a celebratoryWhale Festival every September. Throughoutwhale season—June to October—the town’swhale criers signal optimum sightingopportunities with a blow of a horn.

South Africa’s spring (August-October) is alsowhen Namaqualand, in the Northern Cape,comes alive as wild flowers carpet the usuallybarren wastelands, creating a spectacular arrayof vivid oranges, pinks and yellows. The arrivalof this brief but glorious display is dictated bythe winter rains and spring sunshine, so cannotbe pinpointed to a specific date. You should getthe latest from locals before setting out.

ERS IN THE WILD

endangered mammal in the world. This malaria-free reserve has fourluxurious lodges, each designed for a different clientele. Gondwana, forexample, is a family-oriented lodge that accommodates families withchildren of all ages, while Khanni Lodge promises an amazing gameviewing experience.

The Shamwari Game Reserve, in the Eastern Cape, supports a vastrange of wildlife and plant life within its five eco-systems. Located 60kmnorth of Port Elizabeth, this malaria-free reserve is easily accessible by airand road. Alongside the main reserve, Shamwari is renowned for itsaward-winning conservation projects and for its association with the BornFree Foundation, whose rehabilitation centre sits within the perimeter.

The reserve has seven lodges, which vary in size and style to ensurethat guests are accommodated within an environment that suits theirpreferences. For example, the luxury tented accommodation at Bayethe, inthe northern part of the reserve, mainly attracts a more mature age group,which wants an African-bush type of experience. By contrast, Sarili, in the

W ith luxury private game reserves, you really can have it all, assmall parties of guests are taken by professional rangers on awildlife exploration before being welcomed into the sanctuary

of their upmarket lodge accommodation.Staying at any one of the Mantis Group’s private game reserves is a

rewarding adventure. Each one offers an unparalleled level of personalservice, a choice of accommodation styles and expert staff who are onhand to help you get the most out of your stay.

Sanbona Wildlife Reserve, in the Western Cape, stretches 54,000hectares across the Klein Karoo. Located only three hours’ drive from CapeTown, Sanbona is the perfect choice for anyone who wants to combine asafari holiday with some beach relaxation, or gastronomic indulgence inthe nearby winelands and Franschhoek regions.

As well as boasting the “big five”, it is also home to the only free self-sustaining white lions in the world and is famed for being the onlyconserved habitat for the riverine rabbit, which is the 13th most

SAFARI SENSATIONS

ADVERTISEMENT FEATURE

A holiday at a Mantis Group private game reserve is an awe-inspiring African experience.Whether you stay in luxury tented accommodation or an elegant, colonial-style lodge, it puts you right at the heart of an extraordinary wilderness

Born free: clockwise from left, up closewith a white lion on the Sanbona WildlifeReserve; a splash of luxury at Bayethe;the old-world elegance of Jock; giraffespotting on the Shamwari Game Reserve;and a pool with a view at Sanbona

south, is ideal for guests who prefer a home from home. Modern, airy andstylishly appointed, this lodge appeals to couples and small parties, withdinner served around one long table.

Jock Safari Game Lodge was the first private game lodge to beestablished in Kruger National Park. It has exclusive traversing rights to6,000 hectares within the south-western corner of the park and offersdaily game drives and walks into the wild.

Colonial in style, Jock reflects the elegance of a bygone era. It is splitinto two five-star luxury lodges, with the main lodge offering 12 thatchedsuites with riverbed frontages for game viewing. All have air conditioning,their own private plunge pools and an outdoor lounge area. There’s also asmall business centre and a library.

Little Jock, the latest addition to the range of accommodation, hasthree suites—all with sweeping views of unspoilt bushveld. This lodge caneither be booked as a private safari camp, with its own personal chef andgame ranger or as individual suites.

A stay at any one of these reserves is the stuff of dreams. Where elsecan you combine the sight of frolicking elephants, with sensuous spatreatments, mountain-top sundowners and theextraordinary dawn cry of a hungry lion.

For further information, call +44 1483 425 465 orvisit www.mantiscollection.com

The Last Word is a collection of fiveluxury boutique retreats within theCape Town area. Each has a specialappeal and style, but all sharebreathtaking views, and elegance andcomfort in prime locations. For citydwellers who want a comfortablebolthole, but still be close enough tothe action, these beautifully appointedproperties are ideal.

The Constantia (right), situated inCape Town’s oldest wine valley, is the largest, with eight generouslyproportioned and beautifully designedsuites.Typical features include open-planbathrooms, with tasteful mosaics androll-top baths and private patios.TheConstantia offers tranquillity, relaxationand privacy. Extras include an in-housechauffeur service and turndown treats,such as individual crème brûlées.

Whichever property you choose,Last Word caters for your everycomfort. The Bishops’ Court islocated in Cape Town’s most beautifuland exclusive suburb, and boasts fiverooms, a lush terraced garden with atennis court and an infinity pool.

Meanwhile, The Long Beach,(below) at Kommetjie, sits right on thebeachfront. Its guests can unwind andappreciate the charm and culture of aspectacular natural setting. In keepingwith its location, its spacious suites aredecorated with New England-styledécor. Beyond Cape Town itself, TheFranschhoek sits in the heart of itspicturesque namesake village.The

six luxurious suites boast all thecharacteristic amenities of Last Wordproperties. Award-winning restaurantsare no more than minutes away inwhat has become known as the“gourmet capital” of South Africa.

The Fusion Stay offers guests thechoice of sampling each retreat.

For an altogether differentexperience, the latest addition to TheLast Word experience is the luxury85ft charter yacht, Princess Emma,moored at the V&A Marina. Fourluxurious en-suite cabins, all air-conditioned, accommodate eight guests.The aft deck offers alfresco dining andthe swimming platform provides easyaccess to the water.Why not hire it asa wedding venue, for private parties oran unforgettable board meeting?

Call +27 21 7946561for moreinformation or visitwww.thelastword.co.za

HEAVENLYHIDEAWAYS

ADVENTURE

1. Hiking in the mountainsThe Drakensberg mountains are a243,000 hectare world heritage site andone of South Africa’s most outstandingattractions.With awe-inspiring basaltcliffs, bush, yellowwood forests andwaterfalls, the adventure activities arediverse. Experienced climbers go for thesheer rock or ice-climbing but there arealso stunning hiking routes of varyingdegrees of difficulty on both lower (tryGiants Castle Nature Reserve) andupper (try the Sentinel) slopes.Kamberg offers the most spectacularexamples of rock art in South Africa.

2. Elephant-back safariSouth Africa is famous for its safaris, butwhy sit in the back of a jeep when youcan sit astride one of the big game thatyou’d normally aim to spot through apair of binoculars? At the KapamaPrivate Game Reserve, which sits

5. Whale watchingWhen it comes to wildlife, the coast isalmost as spectacular as the inlandsafari parks. From seals and rare birds topenguins, dolphins and great whitesharks, there’s a wealth of activityoffshore. But some of the biggest drawsare the whales. A two to three-hourboat trip offers the opportunity to getclose to these magnificent mammals intheir natural habitat, and maybe catch aglimpse of other amazing marine life.R850 (£63)

6. Hot-air ballooningIf you want a better idea of what thisstaggering nation really looks like, taketo the skies.Watch the sun rising fromone of Bill Harrop’s Original BalloonSafaris. Catch the start of a new daywith an early morning flight while yousip champagne and slowly wend yourway over the Magalies River Valley.From R,1,965 (£147)

For more information on these activitiesvisit: www.southernafricatravel.co.uk

between the northern Drakensbergmountains and the Greater KrugerNational Park, you can take a safari onan elephant and spend an hour walkingthrough the jungle.R1,350 (£100)

3. Sleep-out in the wildRemember the thrill of sleep-outs in thegarden? Now imagine how it would feelto sleep-out in the South African bushand experience the thrill of hearing alion roar or the rumble of elephants.Game lodges throughout the countryoffer this experience, and theaccommodation ranges from luxurytreehouses to more basic platforms.The choice is yours.

4. Orange River raftingOutdoor explorers will love the prospectof a four-day trip along the OrangeRiver, which winds through the

PARADISE FOUND FOR THRILL-SEEKERSFrom rapid-riding to an elephant safari, Claire Coleman selects six exciting holiday adventures

breathtaking Richtersveldt mountaindesert. Combining fishing, swimming,hiking, rapid-riding and canoeing withcamping and nights around an openfire, the experience is unforgettable.R2,550 (£190)

Licence to thrill: from rafting to ballooning, adventurers are spoilt for choice


GGOOLLFF

SSouth Africa is a magnet for golfers. Ithas an ideal climate for spending timeon the fairways and boasts the standardof courses befitting a country that has

produced such all-time greats as Gary Playerand Ernie Els.

Leopard Creek has been consistently votedthe nation’s best course. But it stands out forreasons other than sheer technical excellence.Situated on the border of Kruger National Park,it was conceived by Player to provide a uniquegolfing experience.

Taking full advantage of the awesomenatural environment, the design even managesto incorporate the “big five”—lion, leopard,elephant, rhino and buffalo. Don’t worry,though, players are protected by innovativearchitectural and landscaping techniques.

Equally at home in nature, but offering a

completely different experience, ArabellaCountry Estate in the Western Cape hostsanother top course, complete with five-starhotel and spa. Immaculately laid out alongsidethe country’s largest natural lagoon, thischallenging course has the ninth, 17th, and18th holes running parallel to the water.

Water also features prominently at Pezula’sundulating course on the Garden Route. Onlythis time, it is the sea. The back-nine holes takeplayers along the cliffs to give them superbviews of the Indian Ocean. Also on the GardenRoute, the four courses at the Fancourt Hoteland Country Club are popular. And at Dainfernin Johannesburg—another of Player’s nature-inspired masterpieces—the rock-strewn JukskeiRiver crosses and runs alongside several holes.

To complete the natural sequence, thecourse at Champagne Sports resort in the

SWING TIMELesley Malachowski guides you to the best places to tee off in a nation of golfing legends

central Drakensberg region is poised against thebackdrop of the Champagne and Catkin peaks,offering golfers a full view of the magnificentmountain scenery. For more unusual, but noless inspiring golf challenges, visit courses suchas the Jack Nicklaus-designed St Francis Linksthat can be conveniently paired with the easier-going, parkland style of the St FrancisBay Golf Club.

South Africa is highly geared to golftourism and offers a wealth of flexible andattractive packages. But, with a little research,it is not difficult to plan your own tour. Indeed,the country makes it easy for you. Stay, forexample, at KwaZulu-Natal’s Marina Beach, andyou will soon see why. The area is famous forits warm weather and palm tree-lined expansesof sand, but within 45 minutes’ drive, you willbe able to play at nine top-class courses.


If you want to be wowed while beingsoothed and pampered, the Arabella Spa atthe five-star Arabella Western Cape Hotel &Spa, near Hermanus, offers a unique African

Rain Forest treatment that’s the perfect antidoteto the stress of city life.

Inspired by African rains, the therapy ismade up of 15 “steps”—mini treatments thatuse water, lights, colours, exotic sounds, smells,pressure and temperature. It begins with an

invigorating all-over aromatic salt scrub,followed by an aromatherapy sauna, a soft,cool mountain mist and a session in the steamroom, with eucalyptus-infused steam.

The idea of alternating hot and cold is totire the body. And having been suitably fatiguedyou retreat to special relaxation beds to calmand refresh your limbs. The most sensationalstep, though, must be the rainforest showerbed. Lying face down as warm water cascades,you really do feel as if you’re caught in atropical downpour. As an escape from themadding crowd, it takes some beating.

AND SIX MORE OF THE BEST

The Sanctuary Spa at the TwelveApostlesPrestige hotels own many of the country’spremium spas. The Sanctuary in Camps Bay,Cape Town, is one such offering. The spa mustscoop the award for best location, flanked byTable Mountain and the Twelve Apostlesmountain range, and with the wide expanse ofthe Atlantic in front. It’s been designed to takefull advantage of the situation. Split into two

Lesley Malachowski pampers herself at a top spa and picks six otherhealing havens where urbanites switch off, relax and rejuvenate

BLISSFUL ESCAPES


WELLNESS

distinct areas, you access the Sanctuary via aglass walkover that leads you into a grotto witha waterfall and a series of hot and cold-waterplunge pools. The second area, known as theUpper Sanctuary, consists of five dry-therapyrooms (with heated massage beds) and twoareas for hydrotherapy and Vichy showertreatments. And for those who want tomaximise their proximity to the ocean, thereare two secluded gazebo-style rooms forpampering. Many therapies here are based onthe indigenous fynbos flora.

Fordoun Spa at the Fordoun HotelThis award-winning spa in the picturesqueMidlands of KwaZulu-Natal really pushes theboat out. Alongside its extensive list of moreusual facilities—flotation pool, heatedswimming pool, gym and sauna—it has abioenergy centre, which offers therapiesfocusing on our energy system, includingbioenergy rebalancing, reiki, kinesiology,lymphology treatments and thermal auriculartherapy, or Hopi ear candles in layman’s speak.The spa lists Dr Elliot Ndlovu—a sangoma(traditional spiritual healer) and inyanga(medicinal healer)—as one of its directors.Ndlovu treats guests in two African therapyrooms that have been built in Zulu style.

One&Only Cape TownIn April, leading entrepreneur Sol Kerzneropened this glitzy resort hotel along theVictoria & Albert Waterfront to much fanfare.

One&Only boasts a spa located on its own man-made island and comprising 12 privatetreatment villas as well as a full-service salon, arelaxation room, sauna and steam facilities, two18 sq m vitality pools and a separate teen spa.The signature treatment here is the Essence ofEarth and Ocean Experience, which makes useof therapeutic plants, seaweed and salts tosoothe, hydrate and nourish the skin.

ONEwellnessThis award-winning spa at the Radisson SASHotel is also located at the V&A Waterfront.Among its key features are 10 multi-functionaltreatment rooms and a sleeping area.ONEwellness is spacious enough to include aunisex fitness centre that incorporates the latestTechnogym equipment and a vitality pool. Itssignature treatment, which can be conductedon two people at once, is a combination oftraditional and modern spa techniques, usingheat, ice, steam and light therapy.

The Saxon Boutique Hotel and SpaSitting in six acres of beautifully landscapedgardens in Johannesburg, The Saxon is aluxurious but welcoming bijou hotel, pridingitself on its hospitality and impeccable service.The spectacular infinity pool is a centrepoint,while the Spa encourages weary travellers tounwind after a city break or safari. There are arange of traditional treatments (from pedicuresto facials). Of the signature treatments, theSound Therapy is popular. If the gongs and bellsare a bit leftfield for you, the Imvula Ya Makhositreatment combines massage with a luxuriousmud wrap and is wonderfully soothing.

The Waters of Royal Malewane Bush SpaAnother stylish haven characterised by aspectacular natural setting. Located in theRoyal Malewane private game reserve withinKruger National Park, this luxury spa is whereindulgent splendour meets the raw beauty ofthe surrounding bush. All hydrotherapytreatments, for example, use mineral-rich watertaken from the reserve’s own undergroundstream. The Waters also prides itself on using rare indigenous oils and traditional ingredients,and integrating local healers within its mix of therapists.

To book or find out more call Southern AfricaTravel +44 (0) 1483 425 533

Spa gazing: clockwise from left, the Waters ofRoyal Malewane Bush Spa, set within KrugerNational Park; Cape Town’s ONEwellness; andthe Arabella Spa at Hermanus

Southern Africa Travel is an award-winning, fully-bonded specialist tour operator that offers the highest standards of quality travel to South Africa,Botswana, Namibia, Mozambique, Zambia, Tanzania,Kenya, the Seychelles, the Maldives and Mauritius.

For further details on the hotels, trips andtours mentioned in this supplement, or to requestour latest brochure, please call 01483 428 162,email [email protected] or visitwww.southernafricatravel.co.uk

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