The Perennial Word

May 2012

A Publication of Cedar Mountain Perennials

Volume 2, Issue 1

Editor’s Note: Welcome to the third issue and second season of the

Perennial Word. We had a lot of fun assembling,

publishing and sharing this newsletter with you last

year and look forward to providing our readers with

more timely tips about gardening with native plants

this year.

This month finds us busily getting ready for the up-

coming season. Some new things for this year, we

finished up a shade house last year which will allow

us to increase our growing space as well as provide a

good finishing area for our plants. At the present

time it is already almost full! We have a number of

new plants we are trying this season and hope to have

available a bit later this spring. Our demonstration

garden is still growing. We are currently in the

process of planting. The purpose of this garden is to

showcase some of our plants as well as to try plants

we have not grown before to see how they do when

grown under cultivation.

As in the past we have some feature articles this issue:

The Water Wise Garden

Plant of the Month: Asters and Fleabanes

What’s Bugging Me: Deer

We hope you enjoy this issue of the Perennial Word!

Cedar Mountain Perennials :

Specializes in native

plants for the Inland

Northwest Garden.

Offering a wide selection

of native perennial wild-

flowers grown from seed

or cuttings at our nursery

outside Athol, Idaho. We

also feature a limited selection of

trees and shrubs.

Our plants have been selected to be

ideally suited for climate, soils, and

moisture regimes of the Inland North-

west.

Inside this Issue:

Editor’s Note .............................. 1

The Water Wise Garden ............. 2

Plant of the Month: Asters and

Fleabanes .................................... 4

What’s Bugging Me ................... 5

Spokane Garden Expo ................ 7

Products and Services ................. 8

Retail Locations .......................... 8

Calendar of Events ..................... 8

May 2012 The Perennial Word 2

The Water Wise Garden

By Jill Wilson

In researching this article many of the “hits” that I came up with when I googled “drought tolerant or water

wise landscaping” were for California, Arizona, New Mexico, and Texas, areas traditionally associated with

low moisture and hot summers. A search of drought tolerant plants also came with extensive lists of plants for

California and Southwestern gardens. But creating a water wise garden is not only for areas that we tradition-

ally think of as having a climate that may be hot and or desert-like. Many areas throughout the west are sus-

ceptible to drought, including the inland Northwest and though at times our water supply seems vast, it is far

from inexhaustible. Something that becomes very evident during a succession of hot dry years and may be-

come more important as the population of the area grows.

The concept of xeriscape was developed in Denver, Colorado in response to water shortages. Xeriscape comes

from the word “Xeros” that means dry. Xeriscape refers to a landscape that uses little supplemental water. A

xeriscape is not a barren or dry looking landscape, it is beautiful, one that is in harmony with the local environ-

ment. A xeriscape is not a particular design, but rather a garden concept that can take in a variety of garden

styles. What xeriscape gardens share is an attention to the local climate, soil, and micro site. A xeriscape fits

in very well with the idea of living locally. Native plants are perfect for a xeriscape. They occur locally, are

adapted to local climate and soils, require little to no supplemental water after their establishment.

Let’s look at some of the important principles associated with xeriscape. Xeriscape incorporates seven water-

conserving principles:

Planning and design

Efficient irrigation systems

Use of mulch

Soil Preparation

Appropriate turf

Water-efficient plant material

Appropriate maintenance

Design

A good water-wise garden begins with a good design. Divide the garden up into zones with different water

requirements. Most use three zones, high, moderate and low. Most gardeners place the highest water use

zone around areas where people focus more time and attention such as an entry or patio area. But a higher

water use zone may also be a moister micro site in the landscape, an area where water drains from a roof etc.

The moderate use zone are areas with less use and where the gardener will spend less time in maintenance.

Low use zones require little or no supplemental water. Plant plants with similar water and maintenance re-

quirements within each zone..

Irrigation

Irrigation may be necessary in a xeriscape, particularly in the first few years after the garden has been estab-

lished. Irrigation may still be necessary after establishment based on the garden’s design and plant selection in

the highest water use zones. The idea of xeriscape is not to completely eliminate the need for irrigation but to

irrigate wisely, thus conserving water. Over half of residential water use is in irrigation of yards. Through a

well thought out irrigation system in combination with a well thought out landscape, water use in the yard may

be reduced dramatically. The irrigation system, whether automatic, manual, or hoses that are moved around is

integral to the landscape plan. Water use zones should be managed independently.

May 2012 The Perennial Word 3Apply water as efficiently as possible. Use drip irrigation systems or soaker hoses around shrubs, trees, and

annual and perennial plantings, time sprinklers to run in the morning when evaporation is least.

Mulch

Mulch stabilizes the soil environment, reducing evaporation, soil temperature and erosion. It also reduces

weed growth and competition for water and nutrients. There are many materials that are suitable for mulch-

ing. Permeable mulches such as bark, gravel, straw, compost etc are ideal as they allow water and oxygen ex-

change with roots. Keep the type of plant in mind when choosing the best mulch for the site. Plants adapted

to low water often grow better with gravel or rock mulches. Apply mulch to 2 to 4 inches deep.

Soil Preparation

Soil Preparation is an important in establishing a water wise garden. First look at your soil so you have some

understanding of what plants may be best adapted to it and to see which if any amendments might be needed.

Loosening the soil prior to planting improves root development and allows better infiltration of water and air

needed for root growth and function. Keep in mind when doing this that any soil disturbance will promote

germination of weed seeds so confine tilling to those areas being planted. Addition of compost or manure may

be appropriate in high water use zones to increase the soil’s water holding capacity.

Appropriate use of Turf

Turf provides an ideal surface for children and pets to play on. It is relatively easy to care for though it re-

quires maintenance such as mowing and watering. It cools the urban environment, reduces erosion and pre-

vents glare from the sun. There are several lawn grasses suitable for the Inland Northwest, some of which

require much less irrigation. These include certain varieties Kentucky Bluegrass, fine fescues (creeping and

spreading), Chewings fescue, hard fescues and turf type tall fescues. There are several drought tolerant varie-

ties of bluegrass such as Touchdown, Banff, Baron and Adelphi. Bluegrass is susceptible to necrotic ring spot

disease and in shade powdery mildew. Some of the other turf grasses mentioned are more resistant to these

diseases. In some areas in the garden a ground cover that may use less water may work as well as turf, incor-

porating this concept into the garden design is an important in reducing water use.

Low Water Use Plants

There are a wide variety of annuals, perennials, shrubs and trees appropriate for a water wise garden in the

Northwest. Since we specialize in native plants I will focus on those. Native plants are by their very nature

well adapted to the local area. They are also becoming more and more available in the market place as more

gardeners discover their beauty and hardiness. There are native plants that can be used for almost every garden

setting, from the perennial border, rock garden, theme gardens such as hummingbird or butterfly gardens and

more. There are also many hardy shrubs and trees. Be sure to ask the provider what type of setting the plant

will grow in, some are more suited for full sun or shade, some require more moisture than others, but that said

there is a native plant for just about every garden setting.

Maintenance

Maintenance is necessary in just about every garden. Some designs may require much more than others. For

example the more turf that is used, the more mowing, fertilizing etc. Using native plants can reduce the

amount of maintenance in the garden since they tend to have fewer pest problems and be better adapted to the

local climate therefore requiring less water etc. Using an appropriate mulch will greatly reduce the amount of

weeding required.

Creating a water wise landscape makes our gardens much more compatible with our Inland Northwest environ-

ment. By paying attention to the seven principles discussed here it is possible to create a beautiful, livable gar-

den landscape that is in harmony with our climate.

May 2012 The Perennial Word 4

Featured Plant:

Asters and Fleabanes

Asters and fleabanes are members of the family Asteraceae, formerly

known as compositae. The latter refers to the type of flower found

in this group, in which each inflorescence consists of multiple tiny

flowers. Most bear two types of flowers in each inflorescence, ray

flowers are what we often think of as the “petals” on the daisy (but

each is actually a tiny flower in itself. The disc flowers are the flow-

ers in the center each consisting of a tiny tubular corolla. The ray

flowers are usually purple, blue or violet. The disc flowers are usu-

ally yellow.

The Asters take their name from the Greek word for Star, referring to

the shape of the flower. Many are prized in the garden as they tend

to bloom in late summer or early fall, when few other flowers are

blooming. Not all species are fall bloomers however, in fact both of

the native species we grow bloom are spring blooming.

Asters and Fleabanes are hardy, easy to grow and add much beauty to

the landscape. They are outstanding for attracting both butterflies

and bees and useful for planting in a wide variety of garden settings,

from the perennial border, rock garden to butterfly garden. In our

own experience planting these species in our own garden we have

found them to be relatively resistant to deer feeding though some-

times deer will munch on the flowers.

Several species are native to the Inland Northwest. We offer two

species, both found in the mountains in our local region, Subalpine

Fleabane and Leafy Bract Aster. Both of these species possess pur-

ple/lavender ray flowers and yellow disc flowers. Both occur locally

in wet meadows at higher elevations but are very adaptable to gar-

dens in the valleys as long as sufficient moisture is provided. Plant

in good garden soil, in full sun or part shade in an area that receives

some irrigation or located in a moister site. Both species are spring

blooming.

May 2012 The Perennial Word 5

What’s Bugging Me?

Deer Without a doubt, the most common question we receive from people

looking for plants for their gardens in the Inland Northwest is: what

do you have that the deer don't eat? In truth the only deer proof

plants are those they haven’t found or can’t reach, thus a deer fence or

other barrier is the best insurance against damage. Landscaping with

deer-resistant plants can be a more aesthetic alternative and may be

the best option in areas where a deer fence isn’t practical.

Whether or not a particular plant will be eaten depends upon several

factors: the deer’s nutritional needs, its previous feeding experience,

plant palatability, time of year, and availability of wild foods. When

deer populations are high, and preferred foods are scarce, there are

few plants that deer will not eat. Still some plants are not as palat-

able as others. There are a number of lists of deer resistant plants,

Two that would be most applicable to local gardeners would be avail-

able from WSU Extension (Deer Resistant Plants, a fact sheet C063

compiled by Tonie Fitzgerald http://www.spokane-county.wsu.edu/

spokane/eastside/Fact%20Sheets/C063%20Deer%20Resistant%

20Plants.pdf ) and Washington Department of Fish and Game

(“Living with Wildlife: Deer” prepared by the Washington Depart-

ment of Fish and Game http://wdfw.wa.gov/living/

deer.html#conflicts ).

We have tried to use our own experience as well as that gathered by

others to note which plants among those we grow and sell are more

resistant than others. Keep in mind, these are guides, not absolutes.

To completely protect valuable plants, nothing works like a well con-

structed fence. A well constructed 6 to 8 foot welded wire fence can

last 20 years. Electric fence can also be effective. Hot wire fences

are less expensive to construct but require more maintenance and will

not last as long. Mini barriers, barriers to protect small areas or indi-

vidual plants may also be used. These can be less expensive and ob-

trusive. Some swear by the use of 100 pound test monofilament fish-

ing line, tied to 5 foot states on a 12 inch spacing. This strategy

works best in protecting small areas. (Continued on page 6)

May 2012 The Perennial Word 6

Another strategy that be may be used separately or in combination with some the other methods dis-

cussed previously is the use of repellants. Deer repellants use a disagreeable odor or taste or both

to discourage deer from eating plants that have been treated. There are several commercially made

products or one can make a homemade concoction. The following recipe is from the Washington

Department of Fish and Game:

An All-in-One Homemade Deer Repellent

Mix the following in a 1-gallon tank sprayer: 2 beaten and strained eggs— strain them to remove the white strings surrounding the yolk, which

otherwise will plug up your sprayer).

1 cup milk, yogurt, buttermilk, or sour milk

2 tsp. Tabasco sauce or cayenne pepper

20 drops essential oil of clove, cinnamon, or eucalyptus, found in small bottles at health food stores

1 tsp. cooking oil or dormant oil

1 tsp. liquid dish soap

Top off the tank with water and pump it up. Shake the sprayer occasionally and mist onto dry foli-

age. One application will last for 2 to 4 weeks in dry weather.

Repellants are most effective for short-term use and in areas experience low to moderate deer dam-

age. They also work best when applied before deer develop a habit of visiting your garden and a

taste for your plants!

Some people have also employed the use of various scare tactics to move deer out of an area. This

method involves connecting bright lights, radios or water sprinklers to motion detectors. This

method, like the use of repellants, is best used for short periods of time and with low to moderate

deer pressure.

We hope you have found this article helpful, good luck in the coming season in gardening with deer.

in the Inland Northwest.

(Continued from page 5)

May 2012 The Perennial Word 7

13th Annual Spokane Garden Expo

May 12, 2012

9 a.m.—5 p.m

1810 N. Greene St—Spokane CC Lair

This year’s theme:

Adventures in Gardening

The show will have many wonderful highlights: Specialty Plants for Sale

Seminars

Demonstrations

One-of-a-Kind Garden Art

Door Prizes

Children’s Activities

Garden Accessories & Décor

Unique Gifts

Food

Music

Come See Us: at the Expo:

Cedar Mountain Perennials

We’ll have a lot of great plants for you to choose from

May 2012 The Perennial Word 8

Cedar Mountain

Perennials

Products and Services

Wildflowers: Our selection includes over 60 species of local,

regional and western native wildflowers.

Shrubs and Trees: We carry a broad selection of native shrubs and

some trees.

Pricing: We offer retail sales through the Kootenai

County, Sandpoint Farmer’s Markets and the

Six Rivers Market. Volume discounts are

available to landscapers and those purchasing

in quantity

Consulting:

Site Evaluations

Plant Identification

Plant Selection

Pest and Disease Diagnosis

Training

Hwy 95

Hwy 54

to Sandpoint

to Coeur d’Alene

to Bayview

Athol

Cedar Mountain Perennials

How

ard

Rd.

1 mile east of Highway 95 on Hwy. 54

RETAIL LOCATIONS:

Saturdays: Kootenai County Farmer’s Market Highway 95 and Prairie Ave. Hayden, Idaho Note new time 9:00 AM to 1:30 PM

Wednesdays: Farmer’s Market at Sandpoint Farmin Park, Sandpoint, Idaho 3:00 to 5:30 PM

Wednesdays: Six Rivers Market

www.sixriversmarket.com

By Appointment: The Nursery 7875 E Highway 54 Athol, Idaho Please call first

Calendar of Events

We start selling plants at the May 9

Sandpoint Farmer’s Market

Spokane Garden Expo May 12

Spokane Community College

We start selling plants at the May 19

Kootenai County Farmer’s

Market

Kinnikinnick Native Plant June 2

Society Native Plant Sale

Lakeview Park, Sandpoint

To Find the Nursery:

Place

Stamp

Here

Cedar Mountain Perennials

7875 E Highway 54

Athol ID 83801

If you would like to receive this newsletter, please

send us an email at: botanybob@frontier.com