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Increase Quality Through Interaction with the Field

The Oreck Manufacturing Company 8146 Steemer Tune-Up & Service Guide

7/20/2005

Compiled by Clark DeNoble

Increase Quality Through Interaction with the

Field 1


Table of Contents

Tune-Up Pages 3-10 Troubleshooting Extraction Pages 11-13 Troubleshooting Plumbing Pages 14-22 Normal Flow Path Pages 14-16 Water Dispensed/No Shampoo Page 16 Shampoo Dispensed/No Water Pages 16-17 No Fluids Dispensed Pages 17-20 Upholstery Hose Handle 1 Leak at Quick Connect Page 21 Power Nozzle Page 22 Troubleshooting Electrical Pages 23-27 Initial Checks Pages 23-4 Switch ON/Nothing Works Page 24 Main Motor and Power Nozzle Work-Pump Doesn’t Work Page 25 Pump and Power Nozzle Work-Main Motor Doesn’t Work Pages 25-26 Main Motor and Pump Work-Power Nozzle Doesn’t Work Page 26 Notes: Reconnecting Power Nozzle Motor Page 26 Notes: Pump and Power Nozzle Don’t Work Page 26 Notes: Pump and Main Motor Don’t Work Page 26 Notes: Power Nozzle and Main Motor Don’t Work Page 26 Trouble with Handle Installation Page 27 Disassembly Pages 28-31 Remove Rear Housing, Motor/Separator and Mainframe Assemblies Without Disconnecting Everything S800 Power Nozzle & Motor Particulars Pages 31-33 Brush & PN Motor removal and Main Motor Gasketing

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Tune-Up 1. Functional Checks

a. Remove Tank, Shampoo Bottle and Power Nozzle

b. Slide the Handle switch slide to the back/Floor position

1 2 3

c. Plug the cord into an AC

d. Perform the ALCI function

Press Test Button (White) will shut OFF unit

Increase Quality Throu

FYI In the back position (1) the pump is OFF. The pump is turned ON manually by pushing down (2) on the back of the slide. Use with powered floor nozzle. In the forward position (3) the pump is always ON. Use with upholstery nozzle. Caution: Spraying moves the solution. If the solution isn’t moved, the pump will heat it up and damage the output tubing. Place the slide in the back position if you do not intend to spray for and period > 5 minutes.

outlet and turn Main Power Switch On

test

Press Reset Button (Red) will turn unit ON

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e. Feel for a strong exhaust at the mainframe exhaust port

FYI No exhaust means either the separator inlet was clogged

or the motor fan was damaged. Clean the inlet or replace the motor.

f. Cover the Separator opening with the back of one hand and (g)

g. Feel for a strong suction at the mainframe neck opening with the other

FYI Strong suction here and little or none at the neck (g) means there is a clog in the mainframe between the neck and the separator. Snake, suck or blow the clog out.

FYI Minimal suction at both the neck and separator means either the mainframe Y plate weld has failed or the motor/fan is failing. Replace the mainframe or motor. If you hear a “raspberry” sound when performing this check, the Y plate weld may have failed at the inner part of the Y. Seal this with epoxy.

h. Turn Main Power Switch Off i. Check the tank port o’rings and separator seal for

FYI Lubricating with either soft soap or hand lotion will ease tank installation.

j. Install Tank w/Water to unit



k. Rinse-A-Matic: Turn the Detergent Knob to Rinse. XLS465: Plug the bottom hole of the Dock Seal with your finger

l. Turn Main Power Switch On m. Press down on the handle switch slide

n. Check that water is dispensed when you press down

FYI No Spray?

1. Handle misassembled to unit. 2. Handle plug damaged. 3. Receptacle unseated/damaged.

See Troubleshooting Electrical section See Troubleshooting Plumbing section

o. Slide the Handle switch slide to the forward/Upholstery position and

remove your hand from the handle. Check that water is dispensed continuously.

FYI If it worked in step n but not in this step then the switch slide isn’t functioning correctly. The handles of the early 465 models were susceptible to switch displacement if the unit was dropped. This was not a manufacturing defect. Improvements were made to better endure dropping. Handle replacement is the only fix.



p. Turn Main Power Switch Off (Leave the switch slide forward)

q. Remove the Tank and install the shampoo bottle w/shampoo (XLS700: turn the detergent control valve to Shampoo).

r. Cover the rear hole of the Tank Block with your finger

s. Turn Main Power Switch On t. Check that shampoo is dispersed continuously (will be less volume

than the water test) u. Turn Main Power Switch Off v. Install Tank w/Water to unit

w. Fit Upholstery Hose/Handle Assembly to unit

x. Turn Main Power Switch On



y. Squeeze the upholstery handle trigger until it sprays then release the trigger. Check for leaks at the Quick Connect

z. Squeeze the Trigger and check for solution dispersal. and suction

aa. Turn Main Power Switch Off bb. Remove the Upholstery Hose/Handle Assembly

cc. Fit the Power Nozzle to the unit and connect the Power Nozzle cord

plug to the Rectifier Receptacle in the rear housing.

dd. Turn Main Power Switch On

ee. Check that the Brushroll sweeps towards the nozzle opening

FYI No Spray

1. Tip clogged 2. Pinch tube stuck together3. Clog in hose tubing

Broken Pattern 1. Tip partially clogged 2. Fiber in spray tip hole 3. Damaged spray tip

Clear debris from assembly.

Unbroken Pattern

FYI If you hear the nozzle motor but the brushroll doesn’t move:

1. Remove the belt cover and check the belt If the brushroll doesn’t move and you don’t hear the motor:

1. Check the receptacle output DC voltage See Troubleshooting Electrical

If the Voltage is correct then troubleshoot the nozzle.



ff. Check that the spray pattern is present at both tips

gg. Turn Main Power Switch Off

hh. Slide the Handle switch slide to the back/Floor position

ii. Clean and Inspect

a. Power Cord

b. Separator Screen

c. Tank (Clean and Empty)

d. Mainframe

e. Wheels & Strut Assembly

f. Handle Assembly

g. Front and Rear Housings



h. Power Nozzle

1 2

Loosen the bottom clamp screw until the clamp falls out of the way.

3

5

Remove the brush roll: remove the belt cover and top clamp screws.

4

Remove 3 screws holding the motor cover in place. Move the cover to expose the motor shaft and belt.

Push the belt off the motor shaft with a screwdriver.

6

Manufacturing Method of Belt Installation: Using a tool with a 90° hook, pull the belt back over the motor shaft and release.

Manufacturing Method of Belt Installation: Fit the belt around the pulley/drive end of the brush roll and slip the belt through the slot into the motor housing as shown by the arrow.

7 8

Field Method of Belt Installation: Fit the belt over the motor shaft and slip the rest through the slot and into the brush chamber. Hook the belt with the pulley end of the brush roll and pull the brush roll outward and seat the ends in the mounts.

After using either installation method, the belt will probably look like this. Turn the brush roll manually until the belt centers. See picture #9. Securely fasten the motor cover, belt cover and brush roll clamp. See picture #1.



9

Installed

i. Remove Power Nozzle Front Cover (4 screws)

j. Upholstery Hose/Handle Assembly

jj. Recommended Replacements

a. Separator Seal b. Quick Connect O’ring c. Tank Port O’ring d. Shampoo Bottle

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eld 10


Troubleshoot Extraction The motor/fan assembly supplies the dynamics to move air and extract water. The normal air/extracted water flow path starts through either the power nozzle or upholstery hose/handle assembly. Then up through the mainframe and into the separator body. The extracted water flows into the recovery tank and the air is drawn through the inlet screen into the fan chamber. Air is blown out of the fan chamber into the mainframe and exhausted behind the tank. No or Poor Suction: 1. Either clogged Floor Nozzle or Upholstery Hose/Handle Assembly.

a. Remove whichever assembly is on the unit. b. Turn the unit on and feel for suction at the nozzle neck opening.

2. Improper Tank Installation: A poor seal between the tank and separator body will eliminate the suction power at the nozzle neck opening. This is the most likely caused by increased friction between the separator seal and tank and between the tank o’rings and tank block. Application of a little soft soap or hand lotion (no grease or Vaseline) to the rubber parts will alleviate the friction and improve the seal.

a. Check that the rubber separator seal is complete and in place around the opening of the separator. b. Using the lever latch lock the tank in place. Check that the tank is properly seated to the separator and not caught up on the raised lip of the tank top.

Rubber Seal Unseated Tank Latch Up Tank Properly Seated

Opening

Nozzle Neck



While in this configuration we can check for catastrophic tank weld failure. With the supply (top) tank filled with clean water, turn the unit on and block the nozzle neck opening. If the water transfers to the recovery (bottom) tank, then there is an internal weld failure that requires a new tank. 3. Check the Source: Problems in the areas of separator weld, inlet screen and motor fan assembly can reduce suction power.

a. Check for and if necessary clear debris clogging the Inlet Screen. b. Flex the inlet cover 360 degrees to check the separator weld. Equal

tension should be felt in all directions. c. Turn the motor fan assembly on and block the inlet cover opening

with your hand and feel for a powerful suction. If we have a good suction at the inlet cover opening then we have eliminated the motor fan assembly, clogged inlet screen and separator weld from the list of possible causes. 4. Separator/Mainframe Fit and Mainframe Clog

a. To check for a clog in the mainframe, turn the unit on and cover the separator opening with your hand or cardboard. If your hand or cardboard is sucked hard against the separator opening then the mainframe is clogged.

Fan

Mainframe Suction

Air/Water Separator

Clog

Mainframe Exhaust

b. If the suction is light, cover the nozzle neck opening with your other hand, feel for increased suction and listen for squeaks, squeals, raspberries and other noises. If the suction is still weak only two possibilities remain; either poor fit between the separator and mainframe or a bad Y plate weld. The noises often indicate a bad Y plate weld.



Separator Mainframe Fit

To correct a seating error, loosen two screws holding the separator to the mainframe and reseat the mainframe outlet into the separator receptacle. Tighten the screws.

Suction Side

Exhaust Side

Bad welds aren’t often this noticeable.

Most raspberries happen on the suction side when the area indicated didn’t weld.

If everything else checks out good but you still don’t get a strong suction at the nozzle neck opening, then the problem may be that the weld between the exhaust/suction divider and Y plate has separated allowing exhaust air to be recirculated to the suction side.



Troubleshoot Plumbing Normal Flow Path: 1. Shampoo is drawn from the bottle via the lower port of the bottle dock seal and tubing to the control valve (700) or T connector (465)

Upper/Equalizing Air Port

Lower/Shampoo Port

2. Water is drawn from the supply tank via debris screen, tube and rear port, through the check valve to the control

valve or T connector. a. The check valve prevents shampoo from siphoning into the supply tank when the unit is stored with the

shampoo bottle still docked. b. The control valve or T connector is where the shampoo and water mix. The valve on the newer units

serves the same purpose with the added advantage of shutting off the shampoo and spraying water only. This feature allows owners to flush the system of shampoo, which improves long-term performance reliability.

c. The mixture is drawn from the valve/T connector into the pump and sent to the quick connect at 710 cc/minute and 10.15psi (43.5psi static).

d. The mixture goes into either the power nozzle or upholstery hose handle assembly and out the spray tips/tip.

Water This tube is used for shampoo containment in the event the unit falls over otherwise it acts as a duct for air pressure equalization.

Shampoo



Picture of the actual installation to show the tube butted up against the quick connect and the o’ring fitted to the nipple end. Water Dispensed/No Shampoo in the Solution:

1. Rinse-A-Matic valve, if equipped, in Rinse position.

2. Pinched/clogged shampoo dock to valve/T connector tube. 3. Pinched/clogged shampoo bottle tube.

Shampoo dispensed/No water in solution

1. Tube from the tank block port to check valve pinched.

Care must be taken when handling this tube to prevent putting too much tension on it.

O’Ring

2. Check valve installed in reverse.



The white side must be towards the tank block as shown.

3. Check valve clogged or diaphragm stuck. 4. Tube from check valve to T connector/Rinse-A-Matic valve pinched.

5. Misrouted tubes.

No fluids dispensed *Air leaks in the plumbing prior to the pump will prevent solution from being dispensed. An indication of a small air leak is bubbles seen in the solution prior to the pump.

Steemer spray function is affected by:

a. Loose electrical interconnections (handle to mainframe &

wiring) b. Pump operation c. Air in plumbing (tubes, connectors, tank, shampoo bottle &

seals) d. Cleaning solution

1. *Shampoo bottle empty.

2. *Bottle dock rubber seal missing/defective.

Rubber Seal

3. *Shampoo bottle half empty. Bottle siphon tube installed in wrong

direction.



The siphon tube should be configured in the bottle as shown in the picture; the end of the tube positioned in the lower right hand corner of the instruction side of the bottle.

The safest way to fix/finish the bottle is to push the locking mechanism over to the front side of the bottle.

Normal Pushing it to thefront side. Ready to use.

4. If you troubleshoot with your own bottle it is possible you won’t find a

problem with the function of the unit. The customer returns home, plugs in the defective bottle and the unit won’t work. Your credibility with this customer may be damaged even though you did all you could do.

5. To prevent a problem like this ask the customer to bring in the

carpet/upholstery shampoo bottle that was in use at the time of failure!

6. If this isn’t convenient for the customer then demonstrate that the unit works and advise them that the likely problem is a defective bottle if the unit doesn’t perform at their residence.

7. Checks:

Insert nipples straight and parallel.



Insert tube positioned in lower right hand corner of Instruction side.

Insert tube fully connected to insert. To test this function, face the instruction side towards you. Cover the left nipple with your finger and give the bottle a little squeeze. If the tube is connected shampoo should come out as shown.

8. *No water in supply tank, no solution in bottle. 9. *Tank tube (internal) loose, missing or not positioned correctly.

10. *Tank not seated in separator and tank block correctly.

This picture shows a correctly fitting tank; very little gap between the tank and housings.



11. *Rear receptacle of tank block cracked.

This was an actual problem called in from the field. The rear port is the water port. Small cracks may be the cause of water dripping from the back of the unit.

12. *Rear tank port o’ring broken or missing.

This is a common problem when the unit is stored for a long time between uses. Storing the unit without locking the tank in place will help with prevention.

Other plumbing checks:

1. Upholstery Hose Handle (UHH) a. Leaking or catastrophic failure of the pump output tube.

i. Many customer’s think that to use the UHH to extract, they must leave the main handle switch slide in the Upholstery (forward) position. When they do that it puts the pump into continuous operation and if they are not spraying periodically, the heat from the pump migrates to the solution in the output tube. In testing, after about 45 minutes the result was as shown in the picture below.



This can be prevented by using the UHH sprayer to keep the solution moving or sliding the switch slide in the main handle to the Floor position, deactivating the pump from continuous operation.

b. No spray or poor spray pattern from UHH spray tip.

i. Debris in the solution path migrated to the spray tip.

Spray Tip Pinch Tube

ii. Solution path not rinsed before storage of unit, therefore the chemicals from the shampoo solidified at the tip opening.

iii. Damage to the spray tip. iv. Pinch tube stuck pinched.

c. Leak at the quick connect.

i. O’ring defective or missing.

ii. Upholstery hose receptacle defective.

FYI Occasionally hose assemblies are produced with one or more channels etched in the receptacle wall.If large and long enough they will provide a channel for solution to by-pass the o’ring resulting in a leak. This is most evident when spraying is stopped.

Cutaway view of hose coupler

Receptacle Wall



2. Power Nozzle a. No spray or poor spray pattern from Power Nozzle spray

tips. i. Debris in the solution path migrated to the spray tips.

ii. Solution path not rinsed befor

chemicals from the shampoo b. Damage to the spray tips.

Increase Quality Through Interaction w

Spray Tips

e storage of unit, therefore solidified at the tip opening.

Rinse-A-Matic

ith the Field 22


Troubleshoot Electrical Caution: Heed all the Safety Instructions/Warnings in the User’s Guide and warning labels and imprints on the unit. Hazardous voltages exposed when covers are removed. Initial Checks with Power Nozzle and Handle Assembled to Main Unit

1. Plug the unit into an AC outlet. 2. Check the Appliance Leakage Circuit Interrupter (ALCI) operation.

Press the Test Button (White or Yellow) then press the Reset Button (Red). The ALCI should test and reset even with the unit switched off.

a. If nothing happens then either the outlet wiring is bad (change outlets), outlet’s circuit breaker/fuse has opened (reset circuit breaker/replace fuse), or the ALCI is bad (replace cord assembly).

b. If the ALCI operates correctly then go to step 3. 3. Turn the unit’s main power switch (on the side) ON. Perform the ALCI

check. 4. If the ALCI won’t reset. Turn the unit off.

a. Remove the Power Nozzle plug from the receptacle on the back of the unit. Turn the unit on.

i. Perform the ALCI check. If the check is successful then the problem is either in the rectifier (open) or power nozzle.

1. With a DC Voltmeter measure the output voltage at the receptacle (+/red lead in the left hole and -/black lead in the right hole). If you measure approximately 109VDC then the problem is with the power nozzle.

2. If you measure anything else then the problem is with the rectifier.

3. Secondary check: Turn the unit off. With an Ohm Meter check the full wave rectifier assembly by placing the -/black lead in the left hole and the +/red lead in the right hole. Should read 5M ohms.

ii. Perform the ALCI check. If the check is unsuccessful (won’t reset or trips on its’ own) then the problem is either in the rectifier (shorted), wiring, power nozzle or ALCI cord assembly. Turn the unit off.

1. Rectifier Shorted-With an Ohm Meter check the full wave rectifier assembly by placing the -/black lead in the left hole and the +/red lead in the right hole. Should read 5M ohms. If it reads 0 ohms then the rectifier has shorted (replace the



receptacle/rectifier assembly). Caution: The rectifier goes bad on its’ own but often it was helped by the Power Nozzle. Check the power nozzle out thoroughly; water in the motor, motor frozen, loose or shorting connections, etc

2. Wiring-When a Field repair of the Steemer that requires rewiring was accomplished, the neutral and hot leads of the power cord manage to get fastened together. In this configuration the ALCI will trip every time the unit is turned on. (Reconnect the wires correctly).

3. Power Nozzle- Check the power nozzle out thoroughly: water in the motor, motor frozen, loose or shorting connections, etc (repair as necessary).

4. ALCI-ALCI is bad (replace cord assembly).

5. Switch ON-Nothing works. Unplug cord from AC receptacle. a. Black Cord Lead and Black Switch Lead connection loose (See

11 on the diagram). b. Bad Switch or loose connections to the switch (See 2 on the

diagram). c. White Cord Lead loose from bundle connection (See 10 on the

diagram). d. Black Switch Lead loose from bundle connection (See 14 on the

diagram). e. See 2a from the previous section.

11

2

Inc

10

rease Qua

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6. The main motor and power nozzle work-the pump doesn’t work. a. White Pump Lead loose from bundle connection (See 10 on the

diagram). b. Blue Lead of the handle plug receptacle loose from bundle

connection (See 14 on the diagram).

10

9

6 7

14

c. Pump lead terminal connections loose (See 9 on the diagram). d. Handle plug/receptacle connection incomplete (See 6 on the

diagram). The receptacle must be captured on both sides otherwise when the handle is fastened it will just push the receptacle down rather than seat to it. The receptacle opening should protrude 3/8” when installed. Any less protrusion may prevent contact with the handle plug.

e. Handle switch/actuator malfunction-not repairable (See 7 on the

diagram). f. Pump inoperative. Not repairable.

7. The pump and power nozzle work-main motor doesn’t work. a. Black Motor Lead loose from bundle connection (See 10 on the

diagram). b. Black Motor Lead loose from bundle connection (See 14 on the

diagram). c. Motor brush spring missing or improperly set. d. Motor brushes worn. e. Motor frozen.

i. If you have removed and reinstalled the fan, then there is a possibility that you left the hub spacer (the part that goes between the fan and the motor bracket) out. Even if you put the washer (the part that goes between the fan



and nut) in the hub spacer’s place, the motor will bind when the nut is tightened.

ii. Internal motor problems like bad bearings, rust or other corrosion. Usually not repairable.

8. The main motor and pump work-power nozzle doesn’t work.

a. Power Nozzle/Receptacle connection loose. b. White Rectifier/Receptacle Lead loose from bundle connection

(See 10 on the diagram). c. Blue Rectifier/Receptacle Lead loose from bundle connection

(See 14 on the diagram). d. Faulty Rectifier-Located under heat shrink tubing on the

harness. i. With a DC Voltmeter measure the output voltage at the

receptacle (+/red lead in the left hole and -/black lead in the right hole). If you measure approximately 109VDC then the problem is with the power nozzle.

ii. If you measure anything else then the problem is with the rectifier.

iii. Secondary check: Turn the unit off. With an Ohm Meter check the full wave rectifier assembly by placing the -/black lead in the left hole and the +/red lead in the right hole. Should read 5M ohms.

iv. Perform the ALCI check. If the check is unsuccessful (won’t reset or trips on its’ own) then the problem is either in the rectifier (shorted), wiring, power nozzle or ALCI cord assembly. Turn the unit off.

v. Rectifier Shorted-With an Ohm Meter check the full wave rectifier assembly by placing the -/black lead in the left hole and the +/red lead in the right hole. Should read 5M ohms. If it reads 0 ohms then the rectifier has shorted (replace the receptacle/rectifier assembly).

e. Check the power nozzle out thoroughly. (See Caution 4.a.ii.1) Notes on electrical:

Not shown on the print: the terminated black lead of the power nozzle harness must be connected to the red dotted terminal on the power nozzle motor. Connecting it up backwards will drastically reduce the life of the motor. Pump & Power Nozzle inoperative: Check the two 4 wire bundles at 10

& 14 for loose wires. Pump & Main Motor inoperative: Check the two 4 wire bundles at 10 &

14 for loose wires. Power Nozzle & Main Motor Inoperative: Check the two 4 wire bundles

at 10 & 14 for loose wires.



Trouble With Handle Installation

The handle front and front housing should appear flush as shown in the picture. If the handle front is set back from the front shield by 1/8” then go to the next picture*

Increase Quality Through

*Due to screw head size variations occasionallythe two screws indicated get in the way of the handle installation. Remove both screws, install the handle and reinstall the two screws.

Interaction with the Field 27


Remove Rear Housing, Motor/Separator and Mainframe Assemblies Without Disconnecting Everything

Remove Handle-4 screws

Remove Front Housing- 3 screws

Remove tubes from bottle dock

Remove valve from housing



Remove tie wrap from wire bundle

Remove rear housing-4 screws Flip housing off mainframe

Remove motor/separator from mainframe – 2 screws



Rear housing Motor/separator Mainframe

When reassembling-be sure tubes are routed so that they don’t get pinched.

The mainframe outlet must fit into the separator inlet as shown otherwise there will be performance degradation and difficulty reinstalling the front housing.



Swing the wires to the front of the motor as shown to facilitate rear housing installation.

S800 Power Nozzle & Motor Particulars A. To Remove & Replace Brushroll

1. Remove the 3 screws (marked L) located at the belt door and brushroll clamp.

2. Remove the brushroll.

B. To Remove Brushroll Tray (Not necessary to perform A 1 & 2 to remove tray) 3. Pop off the 2 spray tips. 4. Remove the 5 screws (marked S) and remove the brushroll tray.

SL S

L

LS S S

Short Screws (5) Long Screws (3)



C. To Remove and Replace Motor 5. Disengage drive belt 6. Remove Motor Clamp Screw 7. Disconnect the power leads 8. Remove and save the cardboard insulator 9. Install new motor (reverse steps 8 – 5)

The terminal with the red dot is where the black lead is connected.

D. To Remove and Reinstall the Nozzle Shield

10. Remove the 2 screws securing the front shield lift unhook from body.

11. Clean parts and install new white gasket if necessary.

12. Hook shield to nozzle body, snap the top in place and fasten with 2 screws.

E. To Service the Motor

13. Remove the 5 screws that fasten the motor clamp to the separator. 14. Rotate the motor clamp to line up the space between the two ribs with the

motor brush spring posts then lift the motor clamp straight up to remove.




15. Check three gaskets:

Motor Clamp Motor Upper Motor Fan Housing

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