Well-kept secret Meadows hits long drive straight down the fairway[All Editions]

The Grand Rapids Press - Grand Rapids, Mich. Author: Kathy Carrier / The Grand Rapids PressDate: Mar 3, 2005Start Page: 13Section: WeekendText Word Count: 634

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Copyright Grand Rapids Press Mar 3, 2005

With its eclectic menu and airy ambience overlooking the scenic golf course on Grand Valley State University's Allendale campus, The Meadows is a delightful gem.

Even though we'd been to GVSU numerous times to watch our son play summer baseball, my husband, Hoyt, and I had no idea such a lovely restaurant existed just over the hill from the ballfields.

Since we're not golfers, we never had ventured into the tall grass to check out the other side. On a recent Saturday night, we decided to take a look and see what we've been missing.

Seated immediately, we were the only ones in the restaurant that evening, although our server mentioned the place had been packed the night before.

"We're a well-kept secret here in Allendale," said food and beverage manager Beth XXXXXX, adding most people don't realize the full-service restaurant is open year-round. The restaurant also serves lunch.

What a pleasant surprise to find The Meadows offers such a varied and unusual selection of appetizers, entrees, salads and sandwiches - - at reasonable prices.

For appetizers, the menu features a quesadilla stuffed with a choice of smoked chicken, steak or mojo pork smothered with pepper- Jack cheese and jalapeno Cheddar and served with pico de gallo ($7.50); Gorgonzola garlic bread ($5.50); herb-encrusted lamb rib chops with Port wine demi-glaze ($10); Vietnamese-style spring rolls ($8) and classic Cantonese dim sum shrimp dumplings ($7), along with Italian cheese wedges, Asiago spinach dip and chicken tenders.

We went for the dim sum and the spring rolls. Served hot in a miniature bamboo steamer basket, the steamed dumplings were tasty little packets filled with shrimp, water chestnuts and bamboo. We picked up the morsels with chopsticks, savoring every bite.

Stuffed with crab, pork, bean sprouts and mushrooms, the spring rolls were tasty, too. Fried

crisp, then wrapped in lettuce leaves, they came with the traditional nuoc cham dipping sauce.

The entrees also sounded delicious. Ranging from chipotle chicken pasta ($13) to stir-fried Sichuan flank steak with crispy rice noodles ($17), a savory seafood bouillabaisse flavored with garlic and saffron ($16), Gorgonzola strip steak ($20) and wild Alaskan salmon roasted on a cedar plank ($14), along with other offerings, all were intriguing.

For months, Hoyt has been on a quest to find the perfect steak. I got the jump on him here, however, and ordered the Gorgonzola strip steak, a 12-ounce New York cut broiled to order. Hoyt chose the planked salmon, which was glazed with bourbon. Both came with a choice of soup or house salad, vegetable and a choice of white Cheddar and chive mashed potatoes, rosemary roasted potatoes or rice pilaf. We decided on the salad, but opted for different potato choices.

Seared perfectly on the outside, my steak was sizzling in its juices when served. Done to medium rare, exactly as I had ordered, the steak was tender and juicy, and the melted Gorgonzola cheese added to its succulence. Wedges of roasted rosemary potatoes which were tender, yet crisp and browned on the edges, provided a savory complement. The entree comes with the chef's choice of vegetable.

Still steaming from its hot cedar plank, Hoyt's salmon was firm, moist and flavorful. It was served with mashed potatoes infused with white Cheddar cheese and chives, along with steamed broccoli. Although he enjoyed his salmon, Hoyt kept asking for bites of my steak and marveled at the full-bodied flavor.

We asked about dessert, because none appears on the menu. We decided to share a deep-fried pastry bundle called a xango ($5) Filled with a soft banana ricotta cheese filling, it was served crispy, hot and drizzled with honey.

Satisfied and pleasantly surprised by the delightful offerings we found at The Meadows, we can't wait to go back and try the outdoor seating after a summer ballgame.

Reproduced with permission of the copyright owner. Further reproduction or distribution is prohibited without permission.

Abstract (Document Summary)

For appetizers, the menu features a quesadilla stuffed with a choice of smoked chicken, steak or mojo pork smothered with pepper- Jack cheese and jalapeno Cheddar and served with pico de gallo ($7.50); Gorgonzola garlic bread ($5.50); herb-encrusted lamb rib chops with Port wine demi-glaze ($10); Vietnamese-style spring rolls ($8) and classic Cantonese dim sum shrimp dumplings ($7), along with Italian cheese wedges, Asiago spinach dip and chicken tenders.

The entrees also sounded delicious. Ranging from chipotle chicken pasta ($13) to stir-fried Sichuan flank steak with crispy rice noodles ($17), a savory seafood bouillabaisse flavored

with garlic and saffron ($16), Gorgonzola strip steak ($20) and wild Alaskan salmon roasted on a cedar plank ($14), along with other offerings, all were intriguing.

For months, [Hoyt] has been on a quest to find the perfect steak. I got the jump on him here, however, and ordered the Gorgonzola strip steak, a 12-ounce New York cut broiled to order. Hoyt chose the planked salmon, which was glazed with bourbon. Both came with a choice of soup or house salad, vegetable and a choice of white Cheddar and chive mashed potatoes, rosemary roasted potatoes or rice pilaf. We decided on the salad, but opted for different potato choices.

Reproduced with permission of the copyright owner. Further reproduction or distribution is prohibited without permission.