the link, issue 1

The MEP-90 is a non-heating lamp as described under the provisions of 21 CFR §890.5500 and is indicated for: Medically prescribed use for the treatment of androgenic alopecia in females; The treatment of androgenic alopecia in females by promoting hair growth of females with androgenic alopecia who have Ladwig and Savin Hair Loss Scale classifications of I to II and who have been determined to have a Fitzpatrick Skin Typing of I to IV.

MEP-90 Hair Growth Stimulation System

Device Listing Number: 2134565

510(k) Number: K091496

Regulatory Class: Class I I

Product Code: OAP

Regulation Number: 21CFR §890.5500

Regulation Name: Infrared Lamp

Usage: Prescription

Laser Classification: Class 3r

Measured Wavelength (I): 650nm (+≤.8%)

Measured Power Output: ≤3mwcm2

Now there is a clinically proven, non-drug, non-invasive medical treatment option for the estimated 27 million women suffering from androgenic alopecia (pattern baldness). The breakthrough MEP-90 Hair Growth Stimulation System employs laser biostimulation, and is proven in clinical studies to promote measurable new hair growth.

• The only FDA-cleared device specifically for female

hair-loss patients, the MEP-90 is a Class II medical

device that meets the same FDA laser safety code as

lasers employed in Lasik surgery, laser pain therapy,

and other medical laser procedures.

• The MEP-90 is available to licensed physicians

only and offers an FDA-approved treatment for a

devastating condition for which few medical options

were previously available.*

(*While there has been a proliferation of ‘cosmetic’ lasers marketed to salons, spas and hair loss clinics, they are not indicated for medical use by the FDA and are coming under increasing scrutiny by federal and state regulatory agencies.)

How the MEP-90 Works

This medically prescribed choice utilizes a flexible treatment

schedule of Low Level Laser Therapy (LLLT) treatments to the

total scalp area. Unlike medical lasers designed to cut, burn

or vaporize hair follicles, these ‘cold lasers’ are designed to

stimulate hair growth in a comfortable treatment procedure.

• The MEP-90 is a contoured laser with 82 low-level laser light

diodes completely covering the scalp with measured light

stimulation. During the treatments, the laser light energy

stimulates blood flow and cellular metabolism in the scalp,

using a scientific principal called photobiostimulation.

• Clinical studies suggest that twice-weekly 20-minute

treatments over the course of six months produces

remarkable results in the vast majority of patients

Powerful, Proven Results

Androgenic alopecia has a profound emotional effect on

women. The MEP-90 offers proven results. In a three-

phased clinical study conducted by Dr. Grant Koher of

the Koher Center for Hair Restoration, subjects received

36 scheduled 20-minute treatments over a period of 18

weeks. The MEP-90 demonstrated clinical efficacy in

stimulating significant measurable hair growth:

• 97% demonstrated an increased hair count of 20%



After the 36th treatment, 97% of the subject population demonstrated an increased hair count of 20%. A total of 89% of all subjects demonstrated an increased hair count of 30%, with 57% demonstrating an increased hair count of 50%.

35

30

25

20

15

10

5

0

0-20% 21-30% 31-40% 41-50% 351%

The First FDA Approved Medical Device Proven to Stimulate Hair Growth in Women

It is believed that increased tissue oxygenation plays a significant role in the proven effectiveness of laser hair therapy.

You now have a treatment option specifically for female patients with androgenic alopecia.

18-Week Hair CountDistribution

Midwest RF MEP-90 Brochure.indd 2 8/1/11 3:19 PM

The MEP-90 is available to licensed physicians only and offers an FDA-approved treatment for a devastating condition for which few medical options were previously available.* Salon owners may implement the MEP-90 as a medical solution for hair loss and take advantage of our network which offers supervision from a licensed physician, marketing programs and personalized training.


Salon Owners

The MEP-90 is a non-heating lamp as described under the provisions of 21 CFR §890.5500 and is indicated for: Medically prescribed use for the treatment of androgenic alopecia in females; The treatment of androgenic alopecia in females by promoting hair growth of females with androgenic alopecia who have Ladwig and Savin Hair Loss Scale classifications of I to II and who have been determined to have a Fitzpatrick Skin Typing of I to IV.

MEP-90 Hair Growth Stimulation System

Device Listing Number: 2134565

510(k) Number: K091496

Regulatory Class: Class I I

Product Code: OAP

Regulation Number: 21CFR §890.5500

Regulation Name: Infrared Lamp

Usage: Prescription

Laser Classification: Class 3r

Measured Wavelength (I): 650nm (+≤.8%)

Measured Power Output: ≤3mwcm2

Now there is a clinically proven, non-drug, non-invasive medical treatment option for the estimated 27 million women suffering from androgenic alopecia (pattern baldness). The breakthrough MEP-90 Hair Growth Stimulation System employs laser biostimulation, and is proven in clinical studies to promote measurable new hair growth.

• The only FDA-cleared device specifically for female

hair-loss patients, the MEP-90 is a Class II medical

device that meets the same FDA laser safety code as

lasers employed in Lasik surgery, laser pain therapy,

and other medical laser procedures.

• The MEP-90 is available to licensed physicians

only and offers an FDA-approved treatment for a

devastating condition for which few medical options

were previously available.*


How the MEP-90 Works

This medically prescribed choice utilizes a flexible treatment

schedule of Low Level Laser Therapy (LLLT) treatments to the

total scalp area. Unlike medical lasers designed to cut, burn

or vaporize hair follicles, these ‘cold lasers’ are designed to

stimulate hair growth in a comfortable treatment procedure.

• The MEP-90 is a contoured laser with 82 low-level laser light

diodes completely covering the scalp with measured light

stimulation. During the treatments, the laser light energy

stimulates blood flow and cellular metabolism in the scalp,

using a scientific principal called photobiostimulation.

• Clinical studies suggest that twice-weekly 20-minute

treatments over the course of six months produces

remarkable results in the vast majority of patients

Powerful, Proven Results

Androgenic alopecia has a profound emotional effect on

women. The MEP-90 offers proven results. In a three-

phased clinical study conducted by Dr. Grant Koher of

the Koher Center for Hair Restoration, subjects received

36 scheduled 20-minute treatments over a period of 18

weeks. The MEP-90 demonstrated clinical efficacy in

stimulating significant measurable hair growth:




After the 36th treatment, 97% of the subject population demonstrated an increased hair count of 20%. A total of 89% of all subjects demonstrated an increased hair count of 30%, with 57% demonstrating an increased hair count of 50%.

35

30

25

20

15

10

5

0

0-20% 21-30% 31-40% 41-50% 351%

The First FDA Approved Medical Device Proven to Stimulate Hair Growth in Women

It is believed that increased tissue oxygenation plays a significant role in the proven effectiveness of laser hair therapy.

You now have a treatment option specifically for female patients with androgenic alopecia.

18-Week Hair CountDistribution

Midwest RF MEP-90 Brochure.indd 2 8/1/11 3:19 PM

www.midwestrf.comContact: [email protected]

MESSAGE FROM THE PRESIDENTPeggy Thornhill, AHLC President

Welcome to our premier issue of The LINK, The Voice of the American Hair Loss Council.

Since the AHLC’s inception each officer, board member, committee member, or advi-sor has voluntarily worked to help create an

unbiased, nonprofit support system for the hair replacement industry. We wholeheartedly thank our founders for establishing a high code of ethics based on a strong set of values. We maintain these high standards today as we support the independent business owner who wants to move to a higher level of credibility. Just like the American spirit and tenacity that built our nation, we push forward to better our business environments with support for those who choose to become members.

The AHLC provides solid education, networking, and media presence. We offer a Master’s Certification Program. The support from our member manufacturers and vendors, who partner with us, make our goals attain-able. For our members who have seen the value and participated through the years, we honor you for your commitment.

As we move into the future, change is inevitable, however our core values and high standards will never change. The AHLC will utilize every oppor-tunity to change for the better:

1 Your new quarterly magazine, THE LINK, The Voice of the American Hair Loss Council, is a platform to stay connected to our providers of products, new

programs, and new business ideas along with current industry news.

2New members have been added to the board of directors. They bring new ideas and new avenues to express these ideas. Although already

working, the new board members will be officially introduced at the 2012 AHLC Conference.

3Improved and interactive website with more extensive information, new methods, and educational advice will soon be launched. Online marketing

opportunities for individuals, manufacturers, and vendors will be included with membership.

4The AHLC hosts an unbiased, in-depth, informative, “Outside the Box,” annual conference which offers the unique opportunity to interact with

a variety of vendors, educators, and manufacturers, all under one roof. This is the only opportunity of it’s kind in the industry.

Your AHLC membership is your connection to the industry and a support system like none other. These are just a portion of the changes ahead. Participate with us and grow the hair loss industry for your business and, yes, for the rewards. Growing your personal business, is what the American Hair Loss Council is all about. I am very honored to be a part of the industry’s best connection.

The Link, The Voice of the American Hair Loss Council is the official, quarterly publication of the American Hair Loss Council. For information on advertising or contributing to content, please contact us: The American Hair Loss Council 30 South Main, Shenandoah, PA 17976 570-462-1101 or [email protected] The Link Staff: Senior Editor: René Meier

Managing Editor: Janine Thornhill Design and Layout: e-zign Design Group, www.e-zign.comCreative Director: Terrell Thornhill Contributors: Marlene Alpern, Pittsburgh, PA

Jeni Baker, Raleigh, NC

Dr. Alan Bauman, founder of Bauman Medical Group, Boca Raton, FL

Anke Beker, Former Vice President and Consultant to BVZ, Albstadt-Laufen, Germany

Holly Boyce, Founder and Director, Friends of the Bald Woman, Richland, WA

Joseph Ellis, Raleigh Hair Concepts, Raleigh, NC

Grant Gunderson, Director of Medical Services, HRI of Pennsylvania, Pittsburgh, PA

Toni Love, Owner, Toni Love's Training Center LLC, Atlanta, GA.

Dr. Jason Lukasewicz, Medical Director, HRI of Pennsylvania, Pittsburgh, PA

Jennifer Raikes, Executive Director of the Trichotillomania Learning Center (TLC), Santa Cruz, CA

Peggy Thornhill, Classic Designs, Hattiesburg, MS

Regina Villemure, Founder/CEO, Children With Hairloss, South Rockwood, MI AHLC Board of Directors: Peggy Thornhill, President

Marsha Scott, Vice President

Susan Kettering, Executive Director

Betty Ann Bugden, Treasurer/Membership Director

René Meier, Board Member-Elect

Joseph Ellis, Board Member-Elect

The opinions expressed in The Link, The Voice of the Ameri-can Hair Loss Council are those of the authors and do not necessarily reflect the views of the American Hair Loss Council. The advertisements in The Link do not necessarily reflect the beliefs, opinions or attitudes of the AHLC and does not imply product or service endorsement.

The American Hair Loss Council © 2011. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part without written permis-sion is prohibited. Published by e-zign Design Group.www.e-zign.com

4 The Link Fall 2011

The Link The Voice of the AHLC

FALL 2011PREMIER ISSUE

ON THE COVER: 24 Friends of the Bald Woman 12 An In-Depth Interview with Andy Wright

Medical: 7 Not All Solutions are Created Equal 8 The Future of Hair Loss 9 Hands-On with the NeoGraft

Features: 20 AHLC Board Meeting 20 The New Benefits of Membership 21 Master’s Certification Highlights 27 Servicing the Ethnic Client 28 Meet the BVZ 30 Covering Young Heads to Heal Young Hearts 32 The Best Kept Secret

Tricks of the Trade: 34 Hair Types 37 Back to Basics

In Every Issue: 4 Message from the President 7 New and Renewed Member Listings 10 Industry Events 23 AHLC Member Spotlight: Tom and Darlene Usadel 31 A Client Speaks Out 38 New Products 38 AHLC Academy

Subscription Information: Subscriptions to The Link, The Voice of the American Hair Loss Council are FREE to members of the American Hair Loss Council.

Non-member subscription price: $60 anually within the continental United States, $80 International.

To become a member, renew your membership, or subscribe to The Link as a non-member, please contact Betty Ann Bugden, Membership Director, 570-462-1101 or log on to www.AHLC.org.24

The Link Fall 2011 5


Cover Photography by: Andrea Starr Photographywww.andreastarrphotographyblog.com

Dermatologist Formulated Natural Hair Loss Solution

LEARN WHY DOCTORS RECOMMEND REVIVOGEN

Most of you don’t know me, but I’m a longtime client that has worn

hair for nearly 20 years. My background is not involved in any way, shape, or form with the hair industry except for the fact that I suffer from androgenic alopecia. My educational background is in science, more specifically engineer-ing, and my professional background includes over 15 years of information technology consulting. In layman’s terms, that means I know a lot of things about business, science, computers, reengineering an organization, etc., but in the hair replacement industry, until recently, I was just another client.

A couple of years ago, my stylist asked me what I was going to do with myself. I laughed. I was on a “hiatus” from work and really, life for the most part. I had lost my 18-year-old son and was busy polishing up my golf game in hopes of landing a spot on the Senior Tour. She asked me if I’d consider working in the industry and explained how she was tired of watching her company grow old with her clientele. In March of 2010, she

mentioned that she was considering the purchase of a new laser that promised to regrow hair. She was skeptical even though she had been told about the laser from a trusted physician in the industry. I was spending time each week researching this laser, trying to figure out the difference between it and the many cosmetic lasers already on

the market. I spent hours finding out everything that I could because noth-ing was more important to her than her name and reputation. I wasn’t going to take a chance with that. Some time later I was fortunate enough to meet with the physician who actually conducted the 18-week testing on more than 100 women. The rest of my questions were answered and the results verified. Now the real test was to see results on our own clients.

There is a big difference between “FDA approved” and “FDA cleared.” You can-not use the two terms interchangeably.

“Cleared” simply means that it won’t harm you. “Approved” means that the product or device does what the manu-facturer states it will do. The MEP-90 states that it will regrow hair in 98 per-cent of women suffering from andro-genic alopecia. It does. Not just because the FDA says it actually accomplishes what it states, but because everyone who has one will tell you that it works.

With the MEP-90 we offer clients the technology to grow back their own hair. The laser light energy stimulates blood flow and cellular metabolism in the scalp, using a scientific principal called photobiostimulation. Putting a hairpiece on someone’s head is pretty rewarding, but it pales in comparison to giving someone back their own hair. We have seen results on every person who has had the treatments. The length of time to see results varies from 3 - 12 months. It can make a real difference in your business, it has for us.

Libby DiBartolo, RenewalPharaoh’s Hair Replacement Center, Moriches, NY Spokeswoman for her local American Cancer Society and was instrumental in organizing the “Look Better Feel Better” program at Southampton General Hospital.

Pamela Mullins, RenewalPamela’s Hairstyling, Inc, Cameron, MOPHI Solutions for Hair, Gladstone, MOMember of the National Cosmetology/Profes-sional Beauty Association and the Leukemia and Lymphoma Society.

Revivogen® Los Angeles, CARecognized as a powerful solution for hair loss by medical experts and

consumers worldwide. Available through medical offices and hair profession-als, Revivogen offers significant training, press, sales materials, and samples to keep customers satisfied and business growing.

Di Biase Hair, USA, Farmington, MIA wholesale distributor with the highest quality natural human hair extensions and ac-cessories. We represent Di Biase Hair of Italy, a

3rd-generation family company, whose techniques in processing have helped to make it the leader in the production of human hair extensions worldwide.

Not All Solutions are Created Equal

Please Welcome our New Members:

by Grant Gunderson

The MEP-90 is the first ever FDA approved medical device proven to re-grow hair.

There is a big difference between

FDA approved and FDA cleared.

To become a new member or renew contact Betty Ann Bugden, Membership Director, 570-462-1101 or log on to www.AHLC.org.



Today, men and women dealing

with hair loss have more medical

treatment options than ever before,

from FDA-approved medications

to powerful and portable laser

therapy devices, to minimally

invasive no-scalpel, no-stitch hair

transplant procedures.

OTC TopicalsRecently there has been a renewed interest in topical treatments. Cur-rently, Rogaine®, containing the active ingredient minoxidil, is the only FDA-approved topical treatment for hair loss in men and women and is often the first line of defense for women. Since the FDA approved minoxidil in 1988, it has not approved another topical hair growth treatment for the scalp. This could change if Latisse which contains bimatoprost, proves successful in its clinical trials as a treatment for male and female pattern hair loss.

PrescriptionTopicalsLatisse® is already FDA-approved for growing long, beautiful eyelashes, but many believe the drug also holds poten-tial as a treatment for hair loss on the scalp. According to the FDA, Allergan has already completed Phase I clinical trials on Latisse and has recently begun Phase II testing on its way to attain the coveted FDA approval for hair growth. Despite it’s cost (approximately $125 for 3 ml) hair loss patients are already requesting Latisse/bimatoprost

prescriptions for their scalp from their physicians. Patients who have received the eyelash-enhancing drug as an off-label topical treatment for hair loss are anecdotally reporting some subtle, yet positive results. Even more encourag-ing is the fact that one noted side effect with Latisse, subtle skin discoloration, has not yet been reported after use on the scalp.

While Allergan pursues FDA approval of their topical, minoxidil still remains an effective FDA-approved topical hair growth treatment for many patients. Besides the generic and brand-name Rogaine you find on the shelf at every pharmacy, a growing number of off-label, customized, compounded ver-sions of the medication, like Formula 82M, can be obtained with a doctor’s prescription. Unfortunately, a signifi-cant number of those who have tried over-the-counter minoxidil solutions find the treatment irritating to the skin and messy to apply. This often severely hampers compliance with the manda-tory twice-a-day applications and the product’s effectiveness. With improved tolerability, along with the addition of some powerful synergistic components such as retinoic acid, anti-DHT, and anti-inflammatory ingredients, Formula 82M minoxidil may offer a dramatic improvement over the aging Rogaine

‘recipe.’ Critics may claim that there is a lack of scientific evidence, but as with any therapy, when compliance improves so does effectiveness.

Whether a patient is using Formula 82M, participating in an off-label study for Latisse, using FDA-approved Prope-cia® or starting their laser therapy regi-men with LaserCap®, tracking the early and often subtle signs of hair growth is essential in helping patients achieve optimal results.

Tracking ProgressThere are new tools available that make tracking progress easier and more effi-cient. Invented by a prominent, award-winning hair restoration physician and researcher, Dr. Bernard Cohen, Hair-Check® is an innovative, noninvasive diagnostic tool used to accurately track the amount and quality of hair growth in a given area of scalp. This measure-ment of hair density and hair caliber is represented in a single number called Hair Mass Index. By recording Hair-Check measurements in different areas of the scalp over time, doctors are able to accurately gauge hair loss measur-ing its progression, stabilization, or reversal. Patients can now know for sure what treatments are working and how well. HairCheck, and genetic test-ing, are reshaping how doctors diagnose, manage, track, and treat hair loss.

Risk FactorsBy the age of 35, two-thirds of all men will start losing their hair. Until recently, there was not a scientifically reliable way to assess your genetic risk before the onset of hair loss, except maybe by looking at a family photo album! A simple cheek-swab can now accurately determine a man or woman’s risk for losing hair so they can begin FDA-approved preventive treatments early. Because of the genetic origin of many medical conditions, includ-ing hereditary hair loss, research into the potential of gene therapy has progressed in many areas of medicine. Today, genetic hair loss testing (HairDX, Dermagenoma, Inc.) can be performed to assess a patient’s risk for male or female pattern hair loss, and even to predict their response to various treat-ments like finasteride and fairly soon, minoxidil.

Topical Treatments and Beyondby Dr. Alan J. Bauman, M.D.

The Future of Hair Loss...



Eliminating Hair LossWhile these tools have made diagnos-ing and treating hair loss easier, future advancements hope to eliminate hair loss altogether. Research suggests that it is a patient’s sensitivity to dihy-drotestosterone (DHT), the hair-killing male hormone, which is passed on from generation to generation. Gene therapy would likely target this genetic sensitivity by making the individual’s hair follicles resistant to the DHT molecule, preventing hair loss before it ever happens. Unfortunately for hair loss sufferers, gene therapy is experi-mental in humans and has not proven very successful in clinical trials. At this time, the FDA has not yet approved any human gene therapy product and little progress has been made since the first gene therapy clinical trial began in 1990. Tiny scientific steps forward, like recent news about hair follicle gene therapy in mice, keep doctors and hair loss patients optimistic that one day gene therapy might be a viable treatment.

Beyond Science FictionAnother area of potential treatment, called cell therapy, uses the body’s own cells and/or molecules to help ‘heal itself.’ Taking advantage of the power-ful proteins and growth factors locked inside the body’s platelets is one way physicians are helping their patients in many areas of medicine like orthopedics, dentistry, wound care, ENT, cardiology, maxillofacial surgery, etc. Some believe the harvesting, separation, and use of platelet rich plasma (PRP) holds a thera-peutic benefit for hair loss patients as well. Derived from a simple blood draw and separated in a special centrifuge, a platelet-rich layer of blood is obtained. Once activated, PRP gel can be used as a storage solution for hair transplant grafts, as a wound-healing treatment, and may hold promise as a stand-alone, injectable therapy for hair follicle rejuvenation.

On the other end of the spectrum, patients with severe hair loss and/or

poor donor supply are hopeful regard-ing another area of research aimed at fighting hair loss, hair cloning. Like gene therapy and cell therapy, clon-ing or the bioengineered production/multiplication of organs, is a hot topic of research. While this research is still in the early stages, researchers are optimistic that they will soon have the ability to successfully multiply, or clone, healthy hair follicles. Cloning DHT-resistant follicles is often considered the

“holy grail” of hair restoration because, if successful, it could generate a poten-tially endless supply of hair follicles for those who are depleted.

Though these treatments are like-ly to reshape hair restoration in the future there are many options available today that allow us to prevent, manage, and sometimes even reverse hair loss.

There is some real excitement going on the surgical side of hair replacement industry and it all has to do with one machine, the Neograft. The Neograft is an automated follicular unit extraction (FUE) device. The grafts from the donor site are taken individually instead of the traditional “strip” method. The Neograft uses suction to remove individual follicles one at a time, allowing quicker healing without the need for sutures or a linear scar. Neograft is the only FDA approved, minimally invasive, automated hair transplant system on the market.

In our office we use the machine mainly for extrac-tion of the grafts. This is because the process of using the implanter device to put the grafts in the receptor sites is slower than experienced technicians are able to do manually. Making the receptor sites and implanting the grafts is just as time consuming as the strip method. This method requires much more time as it is much more involved than simply removing the donor site and stitching it back up. From my own experience, the Neograft provides just as many units as the strip method does and, what is more important, there is more donor area available by way of the Neograft than the strip method. As with any hair trans-plant, multiple procedures may be required to achieve the client’s desired level of hair density.

The Neograft also opens the door for a whole new group of potential clients who previ-ously did not want the invasiveness of the strip procedure, nor the resulting scar. Our patients can wear their hair as short as they like and not have a donor scar.

Hands-On with the NeograftA review by Dr. Jason Lukesewicz



January 28 – 30International Salon & Spa ExpoLong Beach, CAwww.probeauty.org

March 3 – 5On Rite ConferenceMiami, FLwww.onritedirect.com

April 22 – 24International Beauty Show New York, NYwww.ibsnewyork.com

May 20 – 21International Hair & Beauty ShowSecaucus, NJwww.ihshow.com

June 2 – 4Premiere OrlandoOrlando, FLwww.premiereshows.com

June 2 – 4Premiere Day SpaOrlando, FLwww.premiereshows.com

July 22 – 24Cosmoprof North AmericaLas Vegas, NVCosmoprofnorthamerica.com

November 4 – 5Midwest International Salon and SpaRosemont, IL (Chicago)www.probeauty.org

MAY 19-21 • AHLC ANNUAL CONFERENCEFort Lauderdale, Florida

September 18 – 19 Premiere BirminghamBirmingham, ALwww.premiereshows.com

October 23 – 24Beauty ClassicColumbus, OHwww.premiereshows.com

October 22 – 24New Image University Live**Miami, FLwww.newimagelabs.com

October 25Club W/Biolon Certification Class**(New Image)Miami, FLwww.newimagelabs.com

**Attend the conference for FREE if you register for the Club W/Biolon Certification Class on 10/25/11. Call 800-359-4247 for more information.

Upcoming Industry Events

ahlc.org

2012

2011



A D V E R T I S M E N T

Ask The Hair Loss Expert!

an in-depth interview with

Andy WrightIn July, I sat down with Andy Wright, CEO of On Rite, for a candid conversation about the hair replacement industry. On Rite has been a loyal supporter of the American Hair Loss Council and we appreciate Andy taking time to talk with us.

René: How long has On Rite been a member of the AHLC?

Andy: We have been supportive since day-one and have always exhibited at your conferences.

Physically, when did we become a mem-ber? Who knows, time flies when

you’re my age.

René: Do you think being an AHLC member ben-efits On Rite?

Andy: Any institution that trains people to become better skilled and more knowledge-able is good for every-

one. That is the only way the industry is going to grow. That is why we established our Gemtress Hair Acad-

emy in Ft. Lauderdale, Florida beside our offices and warehouse. We offer training in all aspects of the hair augmenta-tion business. If we

all provide continuing education we are build a

brighter future.



René: So you see the American Hair Loss Council as being the educational plat-form for our industry?

Andy: I would say that it’s continuing to grow stronger in that regard. Your conferences are always education-based. Everyone is so busy in their own center that they don’t have time to think up new ideas. The AHLC conference pro-vides that opportunity.

René: One of our articles is about the last BVZ (the German equivalent of the AHLC, see page 28-29) meeting which I attended in Germany. I have been trying to bring some of their ideas here. Although the organization is only six years old, their membership is almost 400 strong, they have grown really fast. They have lots of vendors exhibiting at one time and it is successfully done. Vendors have their own meeting rooms where they can exhibit their products and offer education which works great for the retailer.

Andy: You need to get the word out as to what the AHLC really represents to each retail center across the country and the world for that matter. You have already gone thru your organizational changes and now the AHLC is ready for real growth. You probably have your priori-ties set for the next five years and I am very confident that growing your mem-bership is very high on that priority list.

René: We are looking to do more mem-bership drives. We increased the number of board members to get new and fresh

ideas. We also like to get fresh ideas from our manufacturers, what changes would you like to see for the AHLC?

Andy: Today’s market is a little bit like television. There used to be only three networks to choose from, today there are at least 800 stations. Our industry is a bit like that. You have a lot of options.In my opinion AHLC has to establish a strong base in the retail community as well as establish the AHLC name as a household name. It is going to be a tough road in order to get it where it should be. You are competing for dollars and time.

I am not sure how to do that quickly. In the end you will get there, one new member at a time. If you set a target that each member brings one new member each year, you will double your member-ship each year. There definitely has to be a drive on gaining new membership with the emphasis on younger members. I am the aged one so I can say that the new blood coming into the organization is the future for all. Making them part of the process and implementing their new ideas is part of creating a better future for all.

René: You are probably right. I hear that there is such a generational shift in Europe now. A lot of people are looking to sell their hair replacement centers as

they are getting ready to retire. So now we need new blood.

Andy: Yes, in my opinion recruiting new younger members should be the imme-diate priority for the AHLC because increasing membership will bring the results the AHLC needs in order to reach the next level of their development.

René: Interestingly enough, we Googled the complete phrase “American Hair Loss Council” and returned about 29,000 web pages which include that exact phrase. Apparently, people recognize the value of being associated with the AHLC.

Andy: That proves that the AHLC name itself is definitely very powerful and has great potential.

René: Since we are talking about change, what has changed for On Rite since being bought by The Hiking Group and what can we expect to see in the future?

Andy: Basically nothing has changed internally in our structural or decision-making process. In the beginning, some of our staff feared that a team of Chi-nese would come in and replace existing employees whereas the very opposite has happened. Hiking has allowed us to continue doing our thing, which is sales and great customer service, and Hiking has concentrated on their thing, namely manufacturing. The manufacturing side is going through its own growth phases which are more challenging than ever. For me, the biggest key as to why it was a good idea to vertically integrate is that

Industry Updateby René Meier

an in-depth interview with

Andy Wright



...now the AHLC is ready for real growth.

we have a very secure source in the future. They have the capital to spend on what-ever is needed to keep us in operation and supplied. They are not going to lose their investment by not providing enough man-ufacturing capacity to On Rite whenever needed. That is one of the biggest reasons I am looking forward to the future.

René: I am assuming they have a lot more resources than you had in the past?

Andy: That is correct, Hiking has the manufacturing facili-ties and the capital to grow that sector when necessary. We now have that available to us.

René: Are there any other acquisitions of hair-related companies besides New Image?

Andy: Not to my knowledge, however Hik-ing is in the growth phase, we were the first and who knows who will be their next target?

René: The entire industry experienced an increase in the cost of hair goods from China due to increased labor costs, are there any other reasons for those price increases?

Andy: Raw hair has become a major fac-tor. Before, the cost of hair was a small percentage of the total cost of the end product. Now, the availability of hair even as short as 10 inches is becoming a prob-lem and the scarcity of good virgin hair has become much more acute. In the past, 14, 18, and 24-inch lengths was where the shortage existed and last year the costs of those lengths escalated enormously. Now the price of 10-inch hair, the most popular length particularly for men’s hair grafts, is beginning to escalate as well.

René: Would you say that the extension business has depleted the market for longer lengths?

Andy: Guaranteed. We as an industry have to try to solve that with some high-heat fiber or some other artificial fiber. That is

the only way to curtail that situation. The tonnage of hair that the hair extension business requires is amazing.

René: Is the high usage of disposable hair systems the reason for a shortage in 10-inch hair?

Andy: No, I would probably say that the overall supply line is continuing to shrink. The biggest supply of hair comes from India first and then China. Now with both economies growing, the whole hair collec-tion system has broken down. Today the number of people donating quality hair in both those countries is shrinking rapidly.

René: The same thing is happening in Rus-sia too. A hair supplier informed me that we will have another 20 years of European hair and then we will run out.

Andy: I think 20 years is optimistic.

René: With the prices rising, I am sure it will be cost prohibitive by then.

Andy: To clarify, when you talk about Russia, you are talking about all Eastern European countries.

René: So “Europe” is going to get very large when it comes to labeling hair as European Hair.

Andy: Right, it is already a very large supply source especially with the former Eastern European countries included.

René: Will we see additional price increases in the near future?

Andy: Yes, we will. I venture to say that if we get through the end of this year with-out one, it will be a miracle, but almost definitely by the latter quarter. We’re talk-ing across-the-board with all manufactur-ers, importers, and distributors, not just with On Rite.

René: That’s good for us retail-ers to know. That way, we can plan ahead as we renew membership programs with our clients and making new sales. It is hard to absorb price increases over an extended period of time.

Andy: Regarding the client contract, about two years ago retailers began to realize that you can no longer freeze prices. You must have a clause in your service contract stating that the price of hair may increase dur-ing the life of the contract. You also need that clause included

in all new contracts you issue from now on. Frankly, I believe most people have already started doing this. The raw mate-rial increase can be added on during the course of the contract, otherwise you won’t have any profits! For instance, if you don’t do that and you experience a 20 to 40 percent increase on certain hair lengths, then you’re out of profits for darn sure.

René: Well, I think a lot of retailers have to make major changes as to how to run their businesses. Due to the recession, everyone has been hesitant to raise prices, period. Retailers are afraid of losing clients. I think we all have to come to terms with the fact that we have to raise our prices. Forget about the recession. We need to move forward, otherwise we can’t stay in business.

Andy: Yes, each center certainly has to adjust accordingly.

René: Is it correct that the hair factories in China have a short supply of workers?

Andy: That’s the absolute truth, the hair industry in China is short of workers. The reason is due to the fact that other major employers in China are increasing their production facilities resulting in more



I venture to say,if we get through

the end of this year without [a price increase],

it will be a miracle...

competition for the available workers. Salaries in China were so low that some workers were committing suicide. The government stepped in and said that, over the next three years, all factories have to increase salaries 100 percent. Those industries that could afford the increases, the hair industry is not one of them, instituted increases immediately in order to secure more workers. That put further stress on the hair factory workforce. The difficulty there is that some industries can afford to pay higher salaries however the hair industry is not one of them. Those industries imme-diately started to increase salaries in order to secure more workers and that put further stress on the labor supply. The result was that, for the first time in China, the population began have a choice of jobs and frankly the younger workers are not choosing to work in the hair ventilating factories because it is simply too detailed and difficult in comparison to other jobs available.Another issue in the Chinese work force is the older person and as you know, the work of ventilating hair is very manual-labor intensive. It demands close attention to detail and concen-tration. Many of your readers have received hair systems where two hairs are missing in a particular area, like in the front or in the part, which shows you how accurate the work has to be. The employee has to concentrate in order to do a good job. They can’t ventilate in cornrows or you would be able to see all the lines. Until recently, there was an overabundance of workers in China so work-ers were happy to take any job. Since they can choose from many jobs, parents are advising younger girls not to take the hair ventilating jobs. Not only because it is very intense and hard on the eyes, but it is also very demanding requiring very intricate, detailed work in order to get the graft or wig to look natural.

René: Really?

Andy: In China, everyone wanted to

move east where all the manufactur-ing is but were prohibited. Today the government is allowing the population to move anywhere, and the population is moving toward the jobs. Unfortu-nately, they are running out of workers. Workers can demand more money and are doing so.

René: Are you seeing that some of these factories are going to start building fac-tories in other developing countries?

Andy: Oh yes.

René: Well, let’s talk men’s hair. We have been experiencing a decline in the growth of the men’s sector of our busi-ness. Men are still shaving their heads. Topicals are improving, along with laser and surgery. How can we interest today’s young men about our services?

Andy: If you look at history, around 1985 Michael Jordan was very popular. He and other basketball players began to shave their heads. In the beginning we thought, or I thought, this was a trend and it would last for a couple of weeks or a couple of months, and then go away. I thought nobody in their right mind would want a bald head? Plus, not

everybody has a perfectly shaped head or an attractive head-shape without hair. Unfortunately, I was absolutely, 100 percent wrong. That shaved-head cycle lasted about 25 years. If you look at young people today, they are not shaving their heads or at least those that do are in the minority. If you look

back at the Michael Jordan era, the young guy who shaved his head then is now at least 50 years old. The 20-year-old today does not want to shave his head because it makes him look like a 50-year-old. If he does, he be perceived much older and he definitely does not want that. Yes, we missed a whole generation of men between 1985 and today. We lost out on the generation that was in between those years, we didn’t capture them, we weren’t able to. In essence, the majority of them shaved their heads to solve their hair loss problem. The industry, by no fault of our own, missed a whole genera-tion in those 25 years. That guy, now 50, is in another category. I am very excited about the market because today younger people, like back in the ’70s, have long hair. It was popular then and it is popular again. The hair replacement industry thrived during those early years. That is why I am very optimistic about our future as far as the men’s business is concerned. When you watch television, there are little or no shaved heads among today’s younger genera-tion. In fact even the older stars cover their heads, thankfully, with a hair graft and it looks so natural they even deny they have a graft on.

René: Young men are probably looking for other options, since we have more solutions today, before they seek us out. There is still a stigma attached to wearing hair because of the assump-tion that the hair does not look natural.

Andy: I think that in the ‘70s and ’80s it became acceptable to wear hair. I don’t believe there is a bad stigma today. You are cor-rect when you say we have better grafts and top-of-

the-head hair, better delivery, and bet-ter back up service for the product after it is delivered. Furthermore, we have a more educated consumer today, regard-ing hair. Our hair grafts and hand made wigs are far better compared to the ‘70s and ’80s. I believe we have more young men looking at their balding heads in



I am very excited about the market

because today younger people,

like back in the ’70s, have long hair.

the mirror every morning, their reced-ing hairlines, thinning crowns and saying, “I have to do something about this, I don’t like this, I am losing confi-dence…” plus the other usual scenarios such as, “I’m not attracting the person that I want to attract or I’m begin-ning to fear that I’m losing out on job security.” The time-tested issues are the same in that regard, I don’t think much will change whether it was the 80’s or it is the year 2020. The dynamics of that pressure has not gone away. Nobody wants to be bald. Very few men have a full head of hair when they decide to shave. So we are in the market for a new generation. By the way, I don’t think that the 50-year-old who shaves his head is happy about shaving his head either. So he is now a potential client.

René: I think it’s about let-ting them know that it can be done in a good way. My experience is that once we get, what I call the virgin client, and he gets hair, its done right, looks great, then people are usually highly complimentary. So it’s always a positive thing. Ridicule comes when it’s not done right.

Andy: Let’s be serious, men that get new hair don’t want to tell anyone. On the other hand, women with new hair will certainly share that information. However, when a woman gets new hair because of thinning hair she also is not as likely to tell anyone since thinning hair is a subject she is not comfortable talking about either.

René: Do you still see the need for TV advertising or should we mainly focus on internet marketing?

Andy: I think it would be misleading for me to tell you to focus on one advertis-ing medium only. The problem is where to spend your money. You have to set your budget (10 percent of your gross revenue is a guideline) and select how that budget will be spent. All media plays an important part in getting that client in. You are not going to get

everyone from TV, internet, or radio alone. You certainly are not going to get everyone from print ads only. You have to work a combination, although each market is a little bit different. I suggest you team with a fellow retailer who has experience advertising or get advice from a media buyer with hair advertising and ad campaign experience. Seek out which way you want to spend your advertising dollars. Do not waste your money by just giving it to the first cable station that visits your place and impresses you. Ask them what experi-ence they have advertising hair and ask for references. If they state they know all about advertising and where you need to place the ad or commercial, ask them to give you a reason. Once you get the answer, immediately call your sales

consultant and have us evaluate that information. That offer is free, we will not charge you for advice and guidance. We are all about increasing your busi-ness first, selling you the hair second.Back in the ‘80s and ’90s there was a lot of newspaper, radio, or TV advertis-ing being done by the retailer to the consumer. That is how most of the retailer’s generated new clients and, in my opinion, TV and radio advertising really has to start back up. Potential consumers know nothing about your shop, what you are doing, or how natural you can make their new hair look. Did you know that only about five percent of men wearing grafts don’t look natural? The remaining 95 percent look great, they simply aren’t noticed because they look so good. They are not aware of the options. You have to start

advertising to inform that potential male or female client the options you are offering. You must advertise to make them aware of your services. You have to decide where you are going to advertise and how much you are going to spend to make your brand known in your market. Today the average age of a male customer is over 50. We have to do TV, radio, or newspaper advertising to get younger men and women with thinning hair into your shop. If we don’t get new clients the current 50-year-old will be retired or dead and gone. We have to get the younger clients now and the only way you are going to get them is through advertising on the radio, newspaper, television, internet, or other mediums available. Advertising is the only way to gain these new clients, if we

don’t I think we could be in trouble ten years from now.

René: Television advertising is cost prohibitive for most retailers. Plus, the market is so segmented now that it’s very hard to decide where to spend advertising dollars. I think consumers, especially young people, are researchers. They are seeking solutions, so they go online and research. So instead of us going after them, they are coming after us.

Andy: Again, I’m just going to empha-size that the media mix has to be there and would not eliminate one or the other. At one time, the only advertis-ing options to retailers were print and television. Now we have cable stations, websites, and social media available. It is easy to say that television advertis-ing is expensive, however, there are phenomenal buys in television today. In proportion, television ad costs are down, however you have to look at your whole strategy. You have to build a process which will take care of not only buy-ing ad media and time, that’s the easy part, you have to follow that trail and be sure to follow up all leads promptly. Not only do you have to be prompt in the response, you also have to handle each response properly. You can lose them easily. If you say the wrong thing,



Nobody wants to be bald.

Very few men have a full head of hair when they decide

to shave [their heads].

they’re gone. You really have to build a business model that incorporates the entire process. If you miss the back end process, you’ve blown your advertising money regardless of where you spent it and your leads will be sitting in limbo. Money spent on the front end must be supported by money spent on the back end. If not, you are wasting money. I would recommend that before spend-ing any money on advertising, you have your back-end process in place. Most of you already have the full process in place.

René: The women’s business has really been the driving force in our industry and is continuing to do so. What is On Rite doing in order to provide for the needs of that market?

Andy: Making retailers aware of their choices, alternatives, methodology, and techniques from the consultation to the product attachment. Again, it is all education-based, that’s where our drive is. Any educa-tion, in my opinion, is helpful to the entire industry which is why we hold special educa-tional functions and regular classes at our Hair Academy

René: Hair quality plays a major role when working with women’s hair. Women don’t necessarily care for disposable hair. They would rather have better hair and keep it longer. Has On Rite addressed the issue of improving hair quality?

Andy: Hair processing is always a work in progress, hence it is always being examined. About 20 years ago when the price of hair was very low, if someone made a mistake, over- processed or under-processed the hair, they could afford to literally throw the hair away and forget it. (I am talking about during the manufacturing process.) With the cost of hair today, they can’t afford to allow technicians to do the guess work. The Hiking factories are introducing as much technology and training as they can. I know the term Remy hair is a much misunderstood term. Remy hair is a process only, starting with

the cutting of the hair to the finished processing and coloring. It has noth-ing to do with the hair itself. You could wind up with bad Remy hair, medium Remy hair, or very good Remy hair. The industry has moved, and it will con-tinue to move, towards eliminating the risk factors and making sure that the product is as good as it can be. It is not feasible to be at the site of production. We can make suggestions but cannot be there every minute. Believe me, the fac-tories are very well aware of how much of a price increase the distributors are paying. So that is another benefit of our vertical ownership. They are not flip-pant anymore because they can’t write the importer off, particularly if they own them, they would be hurting them-selves. Their goal is to have better hair.

René: In my experience, women don’t necessarily understand the concept of throwing hair away like we do for men. They don’t feel the need to do that. What’s important to them, especially with longer hair, is that it needs look good the entire time. Industry-wide, the quality of disposable hair is not that great. That is just my opinion. I usually find women opt for a better grade of hair and are willing to spend the money for it. They are just happier that way. I know the manufacturers are look-ing to sell quantity, but I think if the consumer is really happy with a better product, they are willing to pay extra. So the market is there for it.

Andy: One might ask which came first, the chicken or the egg. It is the same with disposable hair. Disposable hair

wasn’t created because we had some bad hair over here and some good hair over there. In other words they weren’t thinking, “Ok, let’s use the bad hair in the disposable items and let’s keep the good hair for the other.” At the time, disposable hair was used mainly in the men’s industry, for better appearance and efficiency, since it only requires shorter hair lengths. The factory didn’t have two piles of hair and weren’t told this pile is for disposable and this one is not. They simply used the best hair at the time. The male retail establishments realized that it’s actually less expensive to dispose of the hair and start off with a new one. Women are choosing longer hair and with the price increases, you don’t want throw away 16 and 18-inch hair just because four weeks are up.

René: It’s cost prohibitive.

Andy: So, definitely, dis-posable hair won’t work for women. As I said, it may be a misconcep-tion that the factories had bad or lousy hair and decided to use it on disposables, no. They’re still attempting to process the hair the best they can. Now just like bleaching, coloring, or perming a head of hair,

sometimes it turns out a little better than others. We don’t know anything about the person from whom the hair was cut, what their diet was like, or what kind of processing had been done. They are not separating good from bad. They are not deciding to buy lousy hair in order to save two dollars when they can buy great hair. By the time that hair gets into the product, the add-on costs are so enormous that you would have to be out of your mind to save two dollars on the raw hair. You are into hundreds of dollars by the time it gets delivered to a retail center. So two, five, or ten-dollar savings on raw hair just doesn’t make any sense at all.

René: I guess it all depends on who your supplier is. Is it correct that some sup-pliers use better resources than others?



Disposable hair wasn’t created because we had some bad hair

over here and some good hair over there.

Andy: Correct. It is a bit like going to the grocery store. The bigger buyer has more options available, however the raw-hair supply market went from,

“Let me examine the hair before you deliver it to me,” to “Let’s have a closed envelope where you make a bid and I’ll ship whatever I have six months from now.” That whole supply line tightened up because the demand changed. When there was very little demand we could pick which ever we wanted and supervise the whole process. Then it shifted to the extreme where there were closed bids where you wouldn’t get the hair for six months.

René: We are talking about quality and the work force situation in China. There seems to be a cycle where the retailer will blame either On Rite or any other company they are dealing with for having a bad run. People that have been in the business for a long time, see that the longevity of a hair system or the overall workmanship is not what it used to be. Is it accurate to say that it is due to the shortage of workers, the extensive training period, and large turn over?

Andy: Boy that is a big question! The answer is yes, all of your points are part of the equation. Let’s go with the first and most important one. The training period really hasn’t changed nor has the actual training itself. You have to train about six months to a year in order to learn ventilating. Once that time period is finished, you put them on zero to start, meaning you are not selling the product that they are making at the beginning. After about three months they are producing basic items that don’t require the intricacy of a man’s sparse-density hair replacement graft. They start with a lot of supervision and then eventually work on the back section of a full cap wig. No matter how much demand there is for this work, training still takes time. A change in staff causes obvious problems. Hiring, training, and assessing abilities all take

time. The shortage of labor is definitely affecting everything. In another sense, we are lucky that most factories have a ventilator that has worked for 25 or 35 years and she really doesn’t want to change jobs. She is going to retire from that job. Those that do retire are kept working on a part-time basis. Younger girls coming into the factories are choosing other industries. That is where the biggest short-fall is.

René: Obviously that means we are going to have to pay more to keep up with the quality.

Andy: The price of hair is hitting us in the sore spot. Workers are getting higher salaries and everybody’s over-head in China is going up, just like here. Everything is increasing.

René: There are some rumors that the quality of customer service and the quality of hair may decline since the Hiking group has purchased On Rite. Is this accurate?

Andy: The answer is no. They invested a lot of money to buy On Rite. They know that (as I mentioned earlier) if they get a rejected product back, they are going to suffer the consequence of that rejected product. It would come off the bottom line of On Rite as well as their profits and that is not what the whole game is about to start with. We all work to get a salary, to pay our bills, and sup-port our lifestyles. They are the same. It is not like we are going to get rich quick

and then in six months, we’re out of here. We have too much invested. Their profit margin is not large, it comes from volume. Since they don’t make a lot of profit per graft, they want to get it right the first time. Getting it right the first time is a reflection of the history of On Rite and our name. Quality affects everybody’s bank account. We are not flippant about that on any side be it retail, wholesale, or manufacturing. Our

competitors are right at our heels and competi-tion exists in all facets of the business. We all experience that. When money hits your pocket, you want to care.

René: Any closing statement?

Andy: No, other than that I’m excited about the future. You can get depressed about it or wallow in the negative. Let’s put it this way, we always have challenges. What matters is how we

handle those challenges. I am as excited today, I just celebrated my 69th birth-day, and I don’t think I have lost any enthusiasm. This is a great industry, we have great people in it. We have people that are really dedicated to servicing the client, making them as comfortable and happy as possible. I have enjoyed that part of my life. I have enjoyed people such as yourself and your members helping me. We are all part of the same team for the betterment of what we are delivering in making the client happier. We need to tap into the young-male and women experiencing thinning hair markets. Young men are going bald at the same rate as their fathers and grandfathers and the young women are definitely loosing hair faster than women before her. Cancer has definitely increased. Regardless, I see a bright future. The costs of getting and keeping new clients may have changed but we will all make adjustments as we have before. Nobody has control of that. I am excited about the future and its possibilities.



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To become a new member or renew contact Betty Ann Bugden, Membership Director, 570-462-1101 or log on to www.AHLC.org.

• AHLC Professional Certification and Facility Accreditation• Annual conference for the latest happenings in our industry• Opportunity to achieve the Master’s Certification• Discounts to participating manufacturer classes • Receive The Link, The Voice of the AHLC quarterly magazine • Networking with peers • Latest news and information• Nationwide client referral service thru AHLC web directory• Your business listing on the AHLC web site

• Recognition - The AHLC works to identify the industry as a credible resource for hair loss information

• Strength in Numbers - The strength of the association is better in numbers and is key to building stronger relationships

• United Industry Voice - AHLC represents the manufacturer, distributor, sa-lon owner and medical specialist to mutually support and provide credibility

• Networking - AHLC is an icon to the industry, informing and educating our members in all aspects

• Referral Program - AHLC works as a referral program to assist the needs of the consumer, the specialist, and the manufacturer

AHLC Board MeetingFort Lauderdale, Florida August 13-15

The board of the American Hair loss Council met August 13-15 in Fort

Lauderdale Florida. The purpose of the board meeting was to vote on and implement new ideas as well as make necessary changes to the bylaws to improve the operation of the AHLC.Education for the 2012 conference was finalized with the commitment of several manufacturers which will increase additional opportunities for our members to accumulate points for the Master’s Certification Program.New and exciting membership benefits have been added and will be announced at the conference. Never before has the AHLC implemented as many changes. This will have a positive affect on all members and manufacturers which will ultimately improve the industry. One of the biggest achieved benefits is the commitment from our manufactur-ers to provide education at discounted prices for our members.

The following are the AHLC board mem-bers. Newly-elected board members will be officially announced at the 2012 conference: Susan Kettering, Executive Director, Peggy Thornhill, President, Betty Bugden, Treasurer & Membership Director, Marsha Scott, Vice President, Rene Meier, Board Member Electee, Joseph Ellis, Board Member Electee.

Pictured Top, L-R: Rene Meier, Susan Kettering, Peggy Thornhill, Joseph Ellis,

Betty Bugden and Marsha Scott.

Peggy Thornhill, Rhonda McCarthy of On Rite

and Jay Benjamin of New Image

Benefits of Membership



Applicants must be an AHLC member for a minimum of two consecutive years before

applying for Master’s Certification.

The AHLC Master’s CertificationProgram Highlights:

The Master’s Certification Program honors and promotes members who meet the highest

standards in the hair replacement industry. Earned by accruing “points” for education, professional work experience, and participation in AHLC activities, a few highlights follow.

Application fee: $25.00

Initial Certification: $350

Renewal: $300

Earn 230 points from the following categories:

70 Education

120 AHLC activity

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For program details contact [email protected] or call Susan Kettering 412-765-3666.

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AHLC Member Spotlight: Tom and Darlene Usadel

The Usadels, left to right: Pam Bordeau, Dean, Darlene and Tom

The Usadels own Usadel’s Hair Restoration, located in Sheboygan,

Wisconsin. Tom began as the sole proprietor of a barbershop over 30 years ago. He owns a full service shop where his wife Darlene, son Dean, and daughter Pam all work with him. When Tom started his business two of his barber friends worked with hair replace-ment. One of those friends, Mel, told him about the American Hair Loss Council and encour-aged him to attend the conferences.

Tom’s main source of educa-tion has been through the AHLC. “The advantage of the AHLC conferences is that the educational opportunities meet the individual studio owners’ needs more than a specific vendor. The AHLC knows what education we needed to progress in the business.” When asked what classes he’d like to be taught at the AHLC conference, Tom suggests anything new in the industry, “That is what you go there for.”

The Usadels have been members of the AHLC since about 1986. The knowledge he has gained is invaluable. When asked how he felt about those early days of the AHLC Tom replied,

“Should I say it was terrific or fantastic. It overwhelmed me.” There was so much for him to learn. He noted that the vendors and salon owners that he met

were successful in their own endeavors and were eager to share their product knowledge and talents with him. He and Darlene have made many friends and they continually shared new ideas on hair replacement.

Darlene went to barber school after her kids went to high school, then started working with Tom. About 15 years ago,

after her mother contracted cancer, Darlene realized what chemotherapy patients deal with. She decided to take classes in order to offer hair replace-ment services. Darlene now specializes in women who have lost their hair due

to cancer treatments. Usadel’s Hair Restoration has private rooms. Consul-tations are scheduled with the patient before their first treatment, that way their cranial prostheses is ready when their hair begins to fall out.

Darlene said, “Working with cancer sufferers is both a joy and very difficult. You try to make them feel good. As soon

as they walk in the door, I greet them, I greet them with a hug. They are going through so much. It gets hard. I cry with them. But I’m there to help them and to make them both feel and look better. Sure, I have bad days, but that is how it’s going to be because you lose a lot of them. Sometimes it is depressing but we all enjoy helping people.”

Each November Darlene hosts a Christmas party at the Usadel home. Her female clients, whether they are in recovery, in process, or just starting treat-ment, are treated to a fashion show, care packages containing make up, and other goodies.

“When I have them at the house it is such an enjoyable time for them. and something I look forward to each year.”

If he had it all to do again, Tom would have gotten into the hair replace-ment business sooner. “I also would have learned to work on women’s hair sooner. Service a variety of clients from the start, coloring, styling, the whole gamut.”

by Marlene Alpern



What advice would you give someone looking to get into the hair replacement business today?

Get a good supplier and join the AHLC.

A long time ago we had a conference in Washington, DC. All the members were staying in the same hotel. Early in the morning, the fire alarm went off we had to evacuate the building. (Now this was before permanent attachments.) It was a sight to see all these guys grabbing their hair pieces, flopping them on their heads, and running outside with one hand on their heads trying to keep them on! It turned out to be a false alarm, but there sure were lots of guys with crooked hair running outside.

By Tom Usadel

Three days before Christmas in 2009, I heard the words that no mother

wants to hear, “You have cancer.” I was 30 years old, I had two small children, a job, a busy life, and I had absolutely no time to deal with cancer. I had quite a mix of emotions upon hearing those three words that got me in the “Club.” I had the typical mix of negative emotions. I was mad that it was me, I was way too young, and had no history of cancer in my fam-ily. Thinking about the ‘what if ’s’ and the thoughts of my children growing up without a mother made me sad. I was scared. I was afraid of the unknown and I was terrified of losing my hair. I hated my hair for so many years but the thought of having none was almost enough me to turn away the medicines that could save my life.

In February treatments began. I was told that within two to three weeks my once-hated head of hair was

going to be gone. I tried to prepare for that day but really there was no way. On Day 14, literally, my hair fell like the Seattle rain. I said my goodbyes and it was gone. I was told about free wig services at our cancer center and tried to

find a complimentary one. As a 30-year-old woman, it was difficult to find a suitable style. I remember trying on the wigs and feeling as if I had aged 35 years. After searching

magazines and shops, I settled on two. Even though being bald was difficult for a young woman, with wigs you can change your look like you change your clothes. It was fun to be a redhead or brunette for a moment. I learned to

make the most of it and used humor to deal with the loss of my dear hair. Whether I was playing a joke on someone and wearing an old Halloween wig or wearing one that no one knew was a wig, I made the most of the time and was thankful to be alive. I never

“wigged” out but decided to get “wiggy” with it instead! Most of the time it felt as if I were an actor. I walked around daily with my little “secret” that I was hiding from the world.

During my cancer journey I discovered that there were some gaps in our com-munity’s support services. There were

wigs available, but only in limited styles. The other

by Holly Boyce



Pam Frick, Lady April

Friends of the Bald Woman

2012 Calendar

Photos by: Andrea Starr Photographywww.andreastarrphotographyblog.com

services offered were great, but I felt that we needed to have more readily available resources for the women in the community. I talked to many patients at our cancer center and discovered that some of them were not as lucky as I had been to have had babysitting provided, meals cooked for them, fund raisers in their honor, and house clean-ing. I quickly realized that many others did not. Those things were so instrumental in reduc-ing the stress that comes with everyday living. It enabled me to focus all my energy on what I really needed to do, focus on my family and my fight. That is when the vision for Friends of the Bald Woman’s was born and our nonprofit journey began. I finished my treatments in August and heard the wonderful words,

‘YOU HAVE SURVIVED.’ Shortly after that our Friends of the Bald Woman organization became a reality as well.

We also look forward to working in conjunction with the American Hair Loss Council and its partners to be able to provide quality wigs in many styles to our women of the community. We want to con-tinually add services to support women in the community. We welcome any suggestions.

We are excited about the expan-sion of Friends of the Bald Woman, from our home base in Washington, to Missouri and Idaho. We are most proud of a special project that will empower women everywhere by knowing that beauty comes from inside each of us. In conjunction with the amazing photography of Andrea Starr Photography and dazzling make up skills of Dolls, we are creating the Friends of the Bald Woman Calendar. The calendar will feature 12 amazing women ranging from ages 16-90 and capture the beauty and cour-age within each of them. Each of these incredibly strong women has fought or is still fighting cancer. The calendars will be available through our website-www.friendsofthebaldwoman.com by October 2011.

My journey has had many ups and downs. I discovered how we deal with those ups and downs makes us who we are. I am now a survivor and my hair has come back, but I will always be the “Bald Woman” and thankful for the lessons learned as I traveled from blonde to bald and back!

Friends of the Bald Woman is an organization that helps local women acquire support services such as:• Meals for local women and their

families while they are going through cancer treatment.

• Financial assistance for wig services.

• Regular house cleaning services.

• Young Women Battling Cancer group (YWBC), a support group for young survivors that will discuss issues unique to those under 45.

• Future services include drop-in childcare for the children of patients or caregivers.



Wigs supplied by European Hair Imports

www . C h i l d r e nW i t h H a i r l o s s . u s

"Covering Young Heads To Heal Young Hearts"™

A non-profit resource for

children who have any medically-

related hair loss, funded solely

through donations and grants and

fund-raisers.

Our children receive a custom

human hair replacements each

year at no cost to them.

Log into your members-only accounton ahlc.org and click on Downloads.Log into your members-only accounton ahlc.org and click on Downloads.



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In writing this article, I had to think back to the start of the hair replace-

ment industry. What comes to mind is the vintage barbershop where toupees were most popular with Caucasian men. Advances have been made, the technol-ogy has changed and now hair loss ser-vices are provided for men, women, and children.

Recently we have seen a rise in hair loss among women. Perhaps it has always been an issue, but it was not as openly discussed as it is today. Women can embrace a wig for it’s versatility.

Business owners and dis-tributors share an interest in tapping into the ethnic market, where billions of dollars are spent on hair care. The ethnic market con-sists of, but is not limited to Hispanics, African-Amer-icans, and Asians. Many hair replacement centers are owned and operated by European/Caucasians and most of their clients are Caucasian. They have little experience in servicing eth-nic clients. Many may have completed cosmetology school without ever servic-ing ethnic clients. Therefore, when caring for an ethnic client, a hair loss special-ist knows how to apply the hair system, however servicing and/or styling the natural hair can become a problem. Hiring a trained, certified ethnic hair loss specialist to service that clientele is always an option.

Servicing African-American hair types can be challenging for someone who may not be aware of the type of products needed and the work can be time consuming. Another issue I have observed, is that companies and/or distributors do not offer the correct hair

textures for ethnic clients. So paying a considerable amount for the service only to receive low-grade hair, does not and never will make a happy client in the long run.

I am aware of some companies that seek advice from their ethnic employees simply because of their race, employees who may have no knowledge of hair qualities or commercial brands. Com-panies and distributors must obtain professional assistance when purchas-

ing hair and selecting the right texture for the ethnic client

As a hair loss specialist servicing ethnic clients, educating yourself on your client’s culture may help them feel comfortable. Although the hair replacement may look great, the client may not return if the environment was uncom-fortable. A variety is better for all clients. When servicing ethnic clients, magazines and print work should reflect their culture.

There is a misconception about ethnic clients, whether they can afford the service. I assure you, if they want it, they will buy it. I built a salon business servicing African-American clients, and once a salon professional learns how to make their clients feel at home, you will have a loyal client for life. Dudley Products has built a $300 million dollar business servicing only African-American clients. The company laid out a program for clients to follow. “If you want to obtain loyal ethnic clients, you have to have a program in place for them to follow with the right

components.” Dudley has done this suc-cessfully for years. I am grateful for the experience of being a part of the leader-ship team. Having the proper tools has helped my business grow.

Servicing the Ethnic Clientby Toni Love



educating yourself on your client’s culture may help them feel comfortable

This was the first time the conference was open to nonmembers.

The weekend included seminars, work-shops, and an exclusive fashion show featuring the 2011 collections from vari-ous manufacturers. Each of the twelve leading hair replacement manufacturers displayed in their own show room. “This is a fantastic opportunity for us to pres-ent our new collection and have personal

contact with many customers,” Alexander Dening, CEO of Dening Hair Company stated. “Not only do we get direct feedback from the customer on our latest collec-tion, but in this environment, people tend to be more open to

sharing their opinions and suggestions about our products. This is a great gift for us” he continued.

The manufacturers’ exhibits were only a part of the event. The BVZ offered both practical and

theoretical classes for their members. There were workshops on the latest techniques in cutting, bonding, and styling. Members could also attend marketing, administrative, and motivational seminars. “The BVZ has always been committed to quality and con-tinued improvement. Everyone can do a little bit better every day,” Peter Volk, founder and president of the BVZ explained. “This is why our members can attend these confer-ences for free. It is our aim, that the yearly membership fee is paid back to the members through the various benefits that come with membership. Only nonmembers had to pay an entrance fee for these state-of-the-art and customized seminars. We strive to make the deal fair for everyone.”Despite the entrance fee, 100 nonmembers attended the BVZ conference this year. “We believe that it was the combination of exhibi-tions, seminars, fashion show, and enter-tainment, at a perfect location, that drew so many people this year,” Peter Volk proudly concludes. The fashion show is always considered the highlight of the conference. The fashion show provided an up close and personal opportu-nity to see whether a new line can hold its promise of “natural looking hair styles.” The crowd’s reaction can determine the success of an entire collection.

For the wig and hair replacement manufac-turers in Europe the BVZ event has become more important than the other generic

ANNUAL CONFERENCE, 2011 by Anke Becker

Bundesverband der Zweithaar-Spezialisten

The German Hair Loss Council

Meet the

BVZThe BVZ’s annual conference took place in Fulda, Germany,

April 8-10 with more than 400 studio owners attending from Germany, Denmark, France, Belgium, Switzerland,

England and the United States.



beauty shows. This is where they come face to face with 100 percent of their target group, wig and hair replacement studios and boutique owners. Unlike the past, the exhibitors no longer fear the competitive environment.

“The market is so open and transparent to customers. “The only marketing strategy is, get out and talk – to customers as well as to our competitors.” Ingo Mayer, CEO of Gisela Mayer GmbH states, “The piece of the pie is big enough for every market player. In our industry the need is great compared to the limited number of manufacturers.” The number of qualified wig and hair replace-ment studios is still limited in contrast to the need. There are about 300 studios in Germany compared to 120,000 new female chemo patients each year. Surprisingly, that number does not take into account other causes of hair loss.

“The opportunity to network was one of the most important reasons for me to attend. The conference creates an environment where it is easy to be very open and share personal experiences with other studio owners,” Joseph Ellis claims. “Experience is all that counts to be successful.” Joseph Ellis owns a hair replacement studio in Raleigh North Carolina. Because of the class taught in English, he and others decided to join Rene’ Meier and fly to Frankfurt for this event. “It was really worth the trip. In some respect our European colleagues are slightly ahead of regarding technology,

styles, and trends. I learned a lot and I met great people. We went on a fantastic sightseeing tour through Fulda, Ber-lin, and Hamburg while enjoying German beer and hospitality. We also toured a hair factory in Stuttgart,” Joseph Ellis finishes with a smile on his face. “I will definitely do this again,”

Save the date! The 2012 BVZ conference will be in Fulda, Germany on April 21 - 23.



Children with Hairloss, a 501c3, was created in September of 2000 to provide any child with medical

hair loss, hair replacements at no cost to the family.

This charity is in honor of my niece who underwent chemotherapy for

five years starting at age three after a diagnosis of Acute Lymphoblastic Leu-kemia with 95 percent cancer. During Sarah’s chemotherapy treatment, she lost all of her hair and there were no hair replacements for children. Typically a synthetic adult-hair replacement was altered to fit a child. However, the hair replacement did not look natural. Noth-ing was made specifically for children so most pieces looked unbecoming, but the children just wanted to have hair.

When I saw the need for children’s hair replacement, I wanted to develop a program to make a difference for any child suffering with hair loss. My vision for this program was that it would be free. No one would need to financially qualify and the quality of the hair replacement would not be based on a family’s income. Sarah fought her battle and won. She is now a 28-year survivor and recently gave birth to her third child.

I still have the same vision because I know, firsthand, the cost of pediatric cancer treat-ment and the major-ity of families simply cannot afford this

“luxury.” Through sev-eral fundraisers, grants, and private donations we provide human hair

replacements and hair care packages for over 300 children throughout the nation annually.

We believe these children deserve the best. Through the many volunteer styl-ists and salon owners, who graciously give their time to help these children, we not only give the highest quality hair replacements, these children get the highest quality service. Some of our volunteers have never provided services to children before. I am told that it is the most rewarding experience to see the smile on a child’s face and know that you made that difference.

I want to tell you about Jayla. She is a 5-year-old little girl from North Caro-lina with alopecia areata. Jayla receives services at El Don’s Hair in Wallace, NC. The salon makes her hair look great and replaces it once a year until Jayla turns 21 years old. The owner has been so touched by Jayla that he has helped raise funds for Children with Hairloss.

If you would like information to see how you can get involved please contact us at www.childrenwithhairloss.us. We are thankful to the American Hair Loss Council and its members for helping us help children!

by Julia Villemure

Covering Young Heads To Heal Young Hearts



Coping with TMMAuthor witheld

TMM has been a devastating and unwanted part of my life for the past

26 years. It has damaged my self-esteem, dictated the activities I participate in, and caused an untold amount of self-consciousness, worry, and shame.

I vividly remember the first time I pulled my hair. I was a 19-year-old col-lege student, staying up late to finish a class assign-ment. As I sat working, I absent-mindedly ran a hand through my hair and noticed a few strands falling onto the books and papers. I remember a strange feeling of stress relief and satisfaction as I continued to more purposefully cause the hairs to fall.

I don’t remember much about the weeks and months that followed that night, however it continued and esca-lated. I remember trying to hide a small bald patch from a new boyfriend some months later. I remember thinking,

“Yikes, I need to stop doing this. I’ve given myself a bald spot!” Back then I didn’t think of my hair pulling as a big problem. It was more like something weird I had inexplicably done to myself that I needed to stop. However, I kept doing it. After a year or two I began to realize that this harmful activity had

“taken hold” of me and I didn’t seem to be able to stop. Even when I consciously tried not to pull my hair I would find myself doing it anyway, even in my sleep, which continues to this day. My TTM grew worse, being in an unhappy marriage did not help. Stress is defi-nitely a trigger for me and there were many times when at least one-third of my scalp was completely bald.

I came across a magazine article about TMM. The writer’s first-person account of the strange satisfaction she felt at each “crisp pluck” of hair resonated deeply with me. It was the first time I had ever heard that hair pulling was an actual recognized disorder and it was validating to learn that many others suffer from it. I requested information from the Trichotillomania Learning

Center (www.trich.org) and when it arrived I eagerly read every word. I thought I could “learn myself out of” pulling my hair and that by becom-

ing knowledgeable about TTM it would give me the power to control it. Unfor-tunately, I was wrong. Although the information was helpful and validat-ing, the impulses to pull my hair didn’t weaken.

I am now 45 years old and still pull-ing my hair, spending several hundred dollars a month to hide it. For count-less reasons, I hate the whole situation and I wish I could stop, but I’ve essentially resigned myself to having this problem for the rest of my life. Over the years, I followed pro-fessional advice such as keeping a hair-pulling journal and saving my pulled hair in a baggie. I tried medications aimed at quelling obsessive-compulsive disorders even though TTM may or may not be that type of disorder. All had minimal results.

Throughout my life, I have only told a handful of people about my TMM. All were kind and accepting, although perplexed. Each asked if pulling my hair hurts, thinking that perhaps it is some

sort of masochistic and/or self-punish-ment behavior. To me it does not hurt, however it has eroded my self-confi-dence and any sense of “feeling pretty” that I may ever have had. I never felt confident about my appearance. I inces-santly worried whether others could see my bald spots and arranging my hair to hide my bald spots took precedence over having a flattering hairstyle.

Most of the time I wore a bandanna. When I couldn’t, it was obvious that something was “wrong” with my hair despite my best efforts to hide the spots with hair spray and barrettes. The first wig I bought a wig for $55. It was the most expensive one I could afford. I wore it over my patchy hair. It was itchy and hot, but at the time, because I thought it looked good compared to a head riddled with bald spots, it was worth the discomfort. When I look at photos of myself from that time, I see that it was very obviously a cheap, bad wig, and I doubt I fooled anyone.

I went through several wig replacements before an online search led me to Joseph Ellis, a local hair replacement

specialist, in 2004. Joseph has been an absolute godsend to me. Although there have been many times over the past seven years when I’ve had to scrape together the money to see him, it has been worth every penny to not have the world see the true state of my hair.

I am so thankful to Joseph Ellis. He has been unfailingly compassionate and professional. I don’t look like I have bald spots anymore. With a little luck, maybe I’ll be able to stop seeing him someday.

A Client Speaks Out Trichotillomania (TMM) is a little understood disorder

characterized by strong, often uncontrollable impulses to pull out one’s own body hair.



I would find myself doing it anyway, even in my sleep

I don’t look like I have bald spots

anymore.

The Best Kept Secret

As a hair restoration specialist you may be one of the few people who

have heard of Trichotillomania. Perhaps you can even pronounce it (trick-o-till-o-mania)! TTM or ‘Trich’ is an impulse control disorder resulting in the urge to pull out hair from the scalp, eyelashes, eyebrows, or any other part of the body, resulting in bald patches or even total baldness.

Most people, even medical profession-als, have never heard of Trichotillo-mania or know very little about it. For adults and children suffering with TMM, it is often their most closely guarded secret. Hair pulling is a very com-mon problem and affects two to three percent of the population (or about 1 in 50 people). Once you understand this problem you will be able to better help your clients and become a resource for many others who wish to benefit from hair restoration services.

Why do people pull out their hair?We have all seen the images of frenzied people grabbing at their hair: “I’m so upset, I’m going to tear my hair out!” This is not the picture of Trichotilloma-nia. Picture a problem much more like nail biting. People with TTM gener-ally pull their hair out absentmind-edly while doing other things such as reading or watching TV. No one knows exactly what causes it. There is evidence

that it is partly genetic in nature. Chronic Trichotillomania generally starts around puberty but can start as young as infancy. TMM may come and go throughout a person’s entire life. People with Trichotillomania are not trying to injure themselves or to purposefully damage their appear-ance. Though hair pulling sounds like it would be painful, individuals with TMM respond differently to the ques-tion, “Does it hurt?” Many report that hair pulling from specific areas of the body feels good. In fact, the pleasurable feelings contribute to their difficulty in stopping the behavior. Others describe the sensation as similar to scratching an itch, providing a feeling of relief. Still others report that it is painful, but feel compelled to pull anyway.

What Does Trichotillomania Look Like?Hair pulling can result in thin hair, bald spots, loss of eyelashes or eyebrows, and even total baldness. TMM can look awful in severe cases or be barely noticeable. As with any form of hair loss, whether it be TMM, alopecia, can-cer treatments, or even normal balding, a person’s self image greatly affected. There are often additional strong feel-ings of shame and self-blame when the hair loss is due to TMM.

It is not possible to identify Trichotillo-mania simply based on the appearance of a bald spot. Bald spots caused by alopecia can look similar to other form of hair loss. As with alopecia, the bald spots may come and go if the disorder goes in and out of remission.

Treatment:Trichotillomania often responds well to cognitive-behavioral therapy (CBT). CBT focuses on creating a competing response to the urge to pull (e.g. fist clenching, playing with finger toys) along with developing skills like self-awareness, relaxation, and stress management techniques. Drug therapy using certain serotonin re-uptake inhibitors, or the amino-acid N-acetyl cysteine (NAC), can sometimes provide relief. Drug treatment is used less frequently with children than with adults. Support groups can also be of great help to sufferers and their families.

by Jennifer Raikes, a recovered hair puller, and executive director of the Trichotillomania Learning Center (TLC).

Jennifer Raikes

TLC is a national, nonprofit organization dedicated to ending the suffering caused by hair pulling and skin picking disorders.We provides articles, brochures, books, videos, treatment and services referrals, educational events, and a supportive community.



bringing hope and healing

1 9 9 120 1 1

www.trich.org

(hair pulling disorder)

trichotillomaniatrichotillomaniaHair Pulling Disorder affects about 1 in 50 people.

That’s 2-3% of your local community who need compassionate help for this hair loss.

The Trichotillomania Learning Center is the most trusted resource for sufferers of hair pulling disorder. Our website receives 20,000 unique visits per month. With your compassion and talent, you can help your clients look good on the road to recovery and feel good about themselves.

Join TLC’s Referral List

TLC’s Service Provider Referral list puts YOU in touch with a large client base seeking caring and knowledgeable providers.

Join now and use promo code “AHLC” to save $15 on your first year!

Visit www.trich.org& click “Join”

For more information on treatment, please request a copy of TLC’s book-let, “Expert Consensus Guidelines for Treatment of Trichotillomania and Skin Picking,” also available for free down-load at www.trich.org/patientFAQ.html. TLC maintains a national referral list of treatment providers, as well as regional and online support groups with a vari-ety of other resources.

How Can I Help?In order to help a client with Trichotillo-mania, all you must really do is imagine how you would want someone to react if you had this problem. Most likely, you would want to be given privacy, under-standing, and assistance to look as good as you can on the road to recovery.

Most people with TTM spend a great deal of time worrying about and fixing their hair to cover their spots. Often, people with TTM have been yelled at or punished for hair pulling, teased by schoolmates, and have avoided situ-ations where their problem might be discovered. Your clients may have given up any hope of recovery. The best treatments do not help everyone. However treat-ments are improving every year, so it may well be worth another attempt. You can be a great help by making informa-tion available to your clients regarding current recommended treatments, the availability of a support community through TLC, and referrals.

A few suggestions:• Be sensitive and compassionate.

• Allow time for the client to build trust with you.

• Invite clients to talk about their hair loss but do not force them or prolong the conversation.

• Provide as much privacy as your client desires. She/he may not want other people to know the cause of their hair loss.

• Be careful not to wash off eye or eyebrow makeup if washing hair.

• Don’t suggest your client stop pulling. Your client would stop pulling if they could. It is not helpful to say, “The bald spot is getting bad, you really ought to stop.”

• Have resource literature available so that you can discretely offer your client more information about how to get help. Your clients may not even know the name of their problem or that help is available.



Most popular types of hair and it’s characteristics:

Caucasian (European Hair) is straight or wavy. It is col-lected mostly from donors in Eastern Europe. Although fine in texture, it can be strong. European hair is available in medium blonde to dark brown. Light blonde is rarer and usually more expensive. European hair is the most expen-sive hair on the market due to the fact that it is not asplentiful as Indian hair. The current price, per kilogram, is about $2000 and price rises constantly. Longer lengths are even more expensive. Taking that rate into account, you can see that a wig made out of “European hair,” priced at $500, is simply not European hair. It is important for you to know that because your client may know the difference.

Indian hair is usually wavy and rarely straight; so don’t try to order straight Indian hair from your manufacturers. (meaning it’s not Indian hair if it is straight or it will come wavy or curly even though you ordered straight?) The texture is closest to European hair, however the hair does not flow and swing like European hair nor does it reflect color and light the same way. Indian hair is abundant therefore the it is reasonably priced. Women in India offer their hair as a religious gesture and shave their heads. Hair dealers purchase the hair from temples throughout India and the monies are used forthings such as local hospitals, schools, charities. Most manufacturers use Indian hair and the quality varies depending on how the hair is processed.

I have worked in hair replacement for 23 years, 20 of those as a wigmaker. There are many misconcep-tions about hair used in wigs, extensions, and cranial prostheses. One misconception is that Indian Hair is better than Chinese hair. The type of hair you choose depends on your client’s natural hair. The quality of

the hair depends mainly on how it is collected and processed.

There are many false claims about the origin and processing of the hair. The word European hair is very freely used as is the term Remy hair. The majority of the hair on the market is not properly labeled, so use caution! There is no agency that oversees the accuracy of the labeling, processing, and origin of the hair. It is up to you to know the difference, which comes with experience and education.

Hair Types by René Meier

The goal of the AHLC is to be a resource for all things related to the hair replacement industry. We want to be sure you

have the most current and accurate information.

Double drawn European Hair

Single drawn European Hair



Non-Remy hair is the most common type available. It is also known as fallen hair, meaning that this hair did not come from ponytails. The roots and tips of hairs are all mixed up in non-Remy hair, tangling is there-fore a problem. Removing the cuticle layers and coating the hair with a silicone can achieve tangle-free, non-Remy hair. This reduces the friction among hairs, however the silicone will wash off over time and the hair will tangle.

Remy hair has been collected by a hair donor. The cuticles are not stripped and remain aligned in one direction. There should be no coating on the hair! Since the hair has cuticles it will respond much better to color and styling. If the hair starts to tangle after frequent shampoo-ing, it was coated and therefore is not Remy hair.

Virgin hair can be of any origin, it has all cuticles aligned in the same direction, has not been colored or permed, and is totally unprocessed. It has a lot of shine and is commonly used for European hair systems.

Before hair is used for hair systems and extension it has to undergo certain preparations, like drawing the hair. Hair can be single drawn or double drawn.

Single drawn is of a slightly lower quality than double-drawn hair. The hairs will have up to a 2-inch difference in the tips which means some hairs will be up to 2 inches shorter than their original lengths.

Double-drawn hair is where all hairs are the same length; there are no shorter hairs in between. Double-drawn hair is more expensive.

Chinese Hair is very coarse and straight. It is usually too coarse for the use of hair replace-ment systems. However, it can withstand more aggressive pro-cessing. It is commonly used for high lift blonde colors.

Malaysian Hair is a little finer than Chinese hair but still very straight. It works particu-larly well for the African Ameri-can market after it is texturized.

Mongolian Hair is coarser than Indian Hair but finer than Chinese hair. It has a bit more body and is usually dark in color. It is also very popular in the Afri-can American market. All of the above hair types can be used as virgin, processed, Remy or non-Remy to make wigs, extensions, and cranial prostheses.

Definining Terms:

Technician is drawing the hair

Single drawn Indian Hair

Virgin European Hair



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_________ Hair Loss Terms _________A quick reference guide for everyday issues.

____ Ventilation Knots for Hair Systems ____

Alopecia Areata: Hair loss in sharply de-fined areas; autoimmune disorder in which the body rejects the hair but the follicle is not dead.

Alopecia Liminaris: Loss of hair at the hairline along the front and back edges of the scalp.

Alopecia Totalis: Loss of hair from the entire scalp.

Alopecia Universalis: Loss of hair from the entire body.

Amino Acids: The building blocks of pro-tein; A deficiency of these may adversely affect hair growth.

Anagen Effluvium: The pathologic loss of the anagen or growth phase hair; the loss of hair due to internally administered medications that poison the growing hair follicle such as chemotherapy medication.

Androgenetic Alopecia: Male and female pattern hair loss.

Cicatricial Alopecia (Scarring Alopecia): Irreversible loss of hair associated with scarring.

Dihydrotestosterone (DHT): A hormone that is the main cause for the miniaturi-

zation of the hair follicle and for hair loss; DHT is formed when the male hor-mone, testosterone, interacts with the enzyme 5-alpha reductase.

Finasteride (Propecia® or Proscar®): Drug that binds with the type 2, 5-alpha reductase enzyme to reduce the amount of DHT.

Keratin: A tough, fibrous protein forming the outer layer of hair and finger nails.

Symptomatic Alopecia: Loss of hair due to systemic or psychogenic causes or from stress.

Telogen Effluvium: Scalp disorder charac-terized by massive hair loss as an early entry of hairs in the telogen phase (rest-ing phase); It may be due to a variety of causes such as eating disorders, anemia, chronic illness, etc.

Tinea Capitis (ring worm): Fungal infection of the scalp.

Traction Alopecia: Loss of hair caused primarily by a pulling force being applied to the hair.

Trichotillomania: Loss of hair from com-pulsive pulling or twisting of the hair until it pulls out or breaks off.

Double Knots (Flat Knots): For very flat style that will not change; flat back pomp requiring no lift; for long hair requiring no lift.

Double Split (3/4 Knot): Provides volume and lift; excellent for human hair, very durable.

Forward: Vented forward from specified crown position; has less lift than forward for pomp.

Forward for Pomp: Gives maximum lift to finished style; hair is vented forward with a center open crown.

Freestyle (Part Anywhere): Gives the same appearance as center crown for-ward for pomp, which will provide lift when brushed back.

Looped Knot: Hair is inserted into the base and brought back up through the base in a loop, but not knotted; base is then sealed with a coat of PU to secure the hair; fragile; Not used on mesh bases.

Reverse Wet Knot: Similar to the dou-ble split but has one additional 1/2 split added for extra security; creates a little more lift than the double split; excellent for multidirectional styles.

Single Knot (Single Flat): Small knot for light density, flat styles; not durable.

Single Split (Half Knot): Smallest of all knots; looks very natural in part; pro-vides lift.

3/4 Knot (1-1/2 knot): Typically used with human hair to create a stable flat knot.

Valencia RH Brand new top of head hair system for women by Belle MadameFine Mono Hair Piece with welded lace front. Size is 7x7” with cutaways. 10” Remy Hair quality. Only available at Euro-pean Hair Imports, 866-681-4247

eXTreme Pro Series Application KitThe new eXTreme Pro Series Application Kit from New Image was developed for clients with extreme demands. If your clients live in climates that are hot and humid or sim-ply need extended wear, this is the perfect application kit to add to their regimen. The bond will not break down with moisture and the airtight tube allows you to use every last drop.

We Guarantee Performance Or Your Money Back. Try it for 30 days, if you are not satisfied, return for a full refund. For more information go to www.NewImageLabs.com or call 800.359.4247

QSHIFor centuries, herbs from the Far East have been the secret of beautiful, shimmering, irresistible to touch, hair. QSHI was formulated to utilize a combination of herbal ingredients and organically derived formulations to make your hair its beauti-ful best. Herbs such as horsetail, chamomile, peppermint, rose, nettle, lemon grass, and Althaea contribute to the remark-able restorative and rejuvenation powers of QSHI.

For more information go to www.QSHI.net or Call 800.327.5555

DI BIASE CERTIFICATIONVarious Dates and Locationswww.dibiasehairusa.com, 248-885-4748

Di Biase Hair extensions provide the potential to add significantly to the standing and revenue of salons and individual hair stylists. It is our philosophy to welcome salons and stylists who already have qualifications as certified hair extension specialists. To assure that all new extension professionals receive the education and hands-on training that is important to success in building a hair extension business, Di Biase Hair USA has instituted a certification system, currently a two-day course.

WOMEN OF COLOR HAIR REPLACEMENT CLASS WITH KIM TRUITTOctober 2 – 3On Rite Hair Academy, Fort Lauderdale, FLwww.hairacademyonline.com, 800-327-5555

Kim brings her artistic skills and knowledge along with her business experience for two days of intense training.

MEDICAL HAIR LOSS CERTIFICATION CLASS WITH JONALEE SCHMIDTOctober 3On Rite Hair Academy, Fort Lauderdale, FLwww.hairacademyonline.com, 800-327-5555

Jonalee has lectured and taught for the American Cancer Society, national cosmetol-ogy schools, prominent hair replacemnt companies, and hospitals throught the US.

CERTIFICATION CLASSESOctober 15 – 18 and November 5 – 8On Rite Hair Academy, Fort Lauderdale, FLwww.hairacademyonline.com, 800-327-5555

Want to keep your technicians at the top of their game? With cutting-edge specialty classes taught by the most experienced

artists and business professionals in the country, these classes cover topics and trends that are a must for today’s studio owner and technicians alike. With 35 years in business, our success speaks for itself. Our academy provides the best hands-on learning experi-ence in conjunction with the world’s greatest instructors.

**SPECIAL OFFER: American Hair Loss Council members receive 20% off any Hair Academy Class now through December 31, 2011.

NEW IMAGE UNIVERSITY LIVEOctober 22 – October 24 New Image Labs , Miami, FLwww.newimagelabs.com, 800-359-4247

NIU LIVE 2011 brings new products, dazzling educators as well as fresh techniques that will give you and your staff the right tools to take home to amaze your customers.

CLUB W/BIOLON CERTIFICATION CLASSOctober 25New Image Labs, Miami, FLwww.newimagelabs.com, 800-359-4247

Biolon is changing the industry and how we perceive human hair. This innovation is absolutely the next revolution in hair. It is a must-see product that has been received as nothing less than amazing. The heat resistant Biolon is exclusive to New Image and is so unique we are having certification classes to ensure optimal success through a very detailed education on the product.

**Attend the conference for FREE if you regis-ter for the Club W/Biolon Certification Class.

AHLC Academy Class Listings: Your resource for continuing education and accumulating points towards our Master’s Certification. Discounts on class fees may be available to AHLC members. Ask when registering for classes.

New ProductSpotlight:

ahlc.org38 The Link Fall 2011


When is a wig not just a wig?

Gemtress knows that hair defines us.

Hair defines the woman and Gemtress

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We recognize that a women demands hair

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majority of today’s top stylists select Gemtress

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The majority of our

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For our full line of men’s hair grafts, call your On Rite Representative or visit www.onrite.com.

Call 800.327.5555 today

When it’s

“There are over forty million women suffering hair loss today…”

Visit www.Gemtress.com & www.Ultratress.com for more information.OnRiteCo.,Inc.•5130NStateRoad7•Ft.Lauderdale,FL33319

HLCFPA0711

the link, issue 1

Documents

hair growth of females

hair restoration

hair follicles

increased hair count

hair loss clinics

measurable new hair

medical laser procedures

female hairloss patients