Copyright©2015byEllenJackson

Allrightsreserved.Noportionofthisbookmaybereproducedorutilizedinanyform,orbyanyelectronic,mechanical,orothermeans,withoutthepriorwrittenpermissionofthepublisher.

PublishedbySasquatchBooks

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v3.1

contentsCover

TitlePage

Copyright

Dedication

RecipeList

Introduction

ALemonPrimer

breakfasts

salads

sides

vegetarian

seafood,meat,andpoultry

sweets

drinks

staplesAcknowledgments

Index

ConversionChart

AbouttheAuthor

recipelist

Breakfasts

BakedEggswithLemon,Cream,andPoppySeeds

David’sDouble-LemonDutchBaby

LemonMuffinswithCrystallizedGinger

LemonCornmealRicottaWaffles

Salads

ShavedZucchiniSaladwithLemonandMarjoram

KaleandBrusselsSproutsSaladwithLemon–BrownButterVinaigrette

SummerTomatoandGreenBeanSaladwithPreservedLemonVinaigrette

CrackedWheatandCarrotSaladwithPreservedLemon

Sides

ToastedCauliflower“Couscous”withLemon,Parsley,andAlmonds

ButteryHedgehogPotatoeswithLemonandHerbs

GrilledCornontheCobwithSmokedPaprika-LemonButter

PepperyLemonParmesanBiscotti

LemonMiso-RoastedDelicataSquash

Vegetarian

Lemon–GoatCheeseGnocchiwithShellingPeasandGreenGarlic

Lentil-ChardSoupwithLemon,Feta,andDill

AsparagusandLemonPestoPizzawithSmokedMozzarella

SpaghettiwithRadicchio,Ricotta,andLemon-GarlicBreadCrumbs

LemonDalwithSpinachandYogurt

Seafood,Meat,andPoultry

Pan-SearedHalibutwithLemonRelish

GrilledLambChopswithLemon,Sumac,andZa’atar

MeyerLemonRisottowithDungenessCrab,Tarragon,andCrèmeFraîche

CedarPlank–GrilledSalmonwithLemons

GrilledFlankSteakwithCharredLemonChimichurri

BraisedBeefwithPreservedLemonsandHarissa

ToastedBreadandChickenSaladwithRoastedLemon-ShallotVinaigrette

LemonParmesanChickenSoupwithHerbedDumplings

Sweets

MiniLemonMeringueWhoopiePieswithLemonCurdFilling

BestLemonBars

LemonandPoppySeedParfaitwithStrawberries

Chocolate-FilledLemonAlmondMacarons

LemonCrinkleCookies

LemonButtermilkPannaCottawithLemonVerbenaandBlackberries

AffogatowithLimoncelloIceCream

LemonCrèmeBruléewithLavenderandHoney

ToastedCoconut–LemonTart

MeyerLemonandTangerineOliveOilCake

Drinks

RoseGeraniumLemonade

StrawberryLemonAguaFrescawithBasil

LemonMintLimonina

HomemadeLimoncello

LemonStickforAdults

Green-and-LemonShots

LemonRosemaryBarleyWater

Staples

PreservedLemons

HomemadeRicottaCheese

LemonCurd

LemonChutneywithDatesandCoriander

Lemon-InfusedOliveOil

MeyerLemon–GrapefruitMarmalade

CandiedLemonRibbons

introductionIwasfirstseducedbyalemonatthetenderageofsix.Alemonstick,tobeexact.AsignatureitemoftheannualFlowerMartinBaltimore,lemonsticks—apeppermintstickunceremoniouslyjammedintoalemon—areastapleofthecity’sspringtimefairsandfestivals.Idrewthejuiceofmylemonupthroughtheporouspeppermintcandy,smittenwiththefruit’sbitternessandthewayitmademyentiremouthpucker.Iwasinlemonlove.

Lush-leavedlemontreesareascommonasbackyardswimmingpoolsinCalifornia,wherewemovedwhenIwasnine.Throughouttheyear,theairisperfumedwiththeirscent,especiallythatofthethin-skinned,marigold-yellowMeyerlemon.Therearerough-skinned,egg-shapedEurekaandLisbonlemonstoo,inshadesofpaleyellowandgreen.Buttheirsunnyappearancebelieswhat’sinside—afruitnearlyimpossibletoeat,asthePeter,PaulandMarysonggoes:“Lemontree,verypretty,andthelemonflowerissweet,butthefruitofthepoorlemonisimpossibletoeat.”

Alemon’sunapologeticacidity—sharpenoughtocreateahoneycombtunnelfromoneendofmypeppermintsticktotheother—impartsanintensefreshnessasvitaltocoaxinggoodflavorfromyourcookingassalt.Asquirtoflemonjuicebrightenssavorydishesandgivesanunmistakableedgetodesserts.Lemonzestaddsapunchoflemonyflavortoeverythingfromrichgoatcheesegnocchiandcreamyrisottotocornmealwafflesandbelovedlemonbars.Wholelemons—preserved,pickled,pureed,salted—becomedeliciouscondiments,theirsournesssubduedbythesimilarlyboldflavorsoftheMiddleEastandSoutheastAsia.Stripsoflemonpeelgarnishcocktailsandinfusethecontentsofsimmeringpotswithpotentlemonessence.ThoughIamcommittedtocookingprimarilywithingredientsthatgrowclosebyandareinseason,I’llmakeanexceptionforlemonswithouthesitation.

Lemonsarealwaysavailable,butyoumayhavenoticedthatcitrusisbestinthewintermonths,whenitspresenceinarichdishismostdramaticallytransformativeandbalancing.Thestrong,clearflavoroflemonscutsthroughtheheavinessofthefattyfoodsweindulgeinduringtheholidays,andthebestmarmaladeismadewithwinterfruit.Butlemonshaveaninsistentpersonalitythatallowsthemtoplayaleadingyetcomplementaryrolethroughouttheyear,whenpairedwithmoredelicateingredientssuchasspringvegetables,summerberries,andeggsandcream.

Sowhatqualifiesadishforinclusioninalemoncookbook?ThatwassomethingIaskedmyselfoftenwhendevelopingtheserecipes.Somecontainentirelemons—peel,pulp,andpith—announcingproudly,“Iamlemon,hearmeroar.”Othersgetpluckyflavorfromthefruit’szestanditsessentialoils.Stillothersareremarkablyenhancedbyasimple,judicioussqueezeoflemon.Refreshingandversatile,lemonshaveaplaceinourdrinks,onourpizzas,andatourbreakfasttables.Zestandjuicethem,yes,butroast,grill,andpreservethemtoo.Andwhenspringcomesaround,pierceonewithapeppermintstick;Iguaranteeit’llmakeyoupucker—andsmile.

alemonprimerAlemonisalemonisalemon,right?Notexactly.Foralltheirubiquityanduniformity,acloserlookrevealsthatlemonscomeindifferentvarieties,shapes,andsizes.Somearesmallandjuicy,whileothershavethickjacketsthathidesurprisinglytasteless,juicelesspulp.Alemoncanbeusedfromtheinsideout,eachpartbringingitsownuniquequalitiestoyourcookingandbaking.Readonfortipsonchoosingthebestlemon,figuringoutwhatitwillyield,andgettingthemostfromit.

LemonVarietiesNearly95percentofthelemonsgrownintheUnitedStatescomefromCaliforniaandArizona,withthebalancefromFlorida.Althoughtherearefewopportunitiesformostofustoenjoyatrulylocallemon,there’sasourceoneitherendofthecountry,andthey’reavailableyear-round.Thetwomainlemonvarieties,EurekaandLisbon,arenearlyidenticalinappearance,largeandeggshapedwithfinelypittedskin.Theonlywaytotellthemapartisthetimeofyear:Eurekasareasummervariety,andLisbonsareplentifulinthefall.

Meyerlemonsareacrossbetweenalemonandanorangeortangerine.Floralandveryaromatic,theirjuiceissweeterandshouldbeusedincombinationwithregularlemonjuiceifyou’relookingtoaddaciditytoarecipe.

LemonsAreGoodforYou

Whenitcomestonaturalhealthbenefits,lemonsleadthepack.Theycontainuniqueflavonoidcompoundsthathaveantioxidantandanti-cancerproperties,andarevaluedfortheirantibioticeffects.

Inadditiontocontainingamultitudeofphytonutrientbenefits,lemonsareasourceofotheressentialnutrientsincludingvitaminA,beta-carotene,calcium,magnesium,folate,phosphorous,andpotassium,manyofwhicharecontainedinitspeel.TheyareespeciallyrichinvitaminC,oneofthemostimportantantioxidantsfoundinfood.VitaminCisessentialformaintainingafullyfunctionalimmunesystem,aidingdigestion,balancingthebody’spHlevels,fightingtumors,andhelpingwoundstohealmorequickly.

HowtoChooseaLemonChoosingafresh,juicylemonisn’taboutfindingtheonewiththemostvibrantlycoloredskin.Instead,lookforfruitwithanallovernaturalsheen,indicatingthatthelemonhasretaineditsessentialoil.Theskinshouldbefreeofsoftspotsandexcessivetextureorpitting,andthefruitshouldbeplumpandfeelheavy.Thoughyoumightguessthattheweightisinthejuice,it’sactuallyinthesugar.Ripenessincitrusfruitismeasuredbysweetness,usingtheBrix/acidratio,betterknownformeasuringthesugarinwinegrapes.

Becausetheirskinisporous,lemonsabsorbwhateverthey’vebeensprayedwith.Forthatreasonalone,it’sworthseekingoutorganiclemons.Theytendtobethinnerskinnedandjuicierthanthelargerconventionallemons,whichareoftendyedforevencolorandcoatedwithwax.Inmyexperience,grocerystoresoftencarrytwo-poundbagscontainingeightorganiclemonsthatrarelyendupbeingmoreexpensivethanthoseforsalebytheeach.

Ifyoucan’tfindorganiclemons,washthefruitwellinlightlysoapywarmwaterwithasoftvegetablebrush.

It’sAllintheZestTheskinofthelemon—commonlyreferredtoasthezest—isthesourceofitspotentflavor,whilethejuicecontainsthetart,acidicqualitiesnotfoundinthefruit’sjacket.Usezestifyouwanttoinfuseyourfoodandcocktailswithintense,brightlemonessence.

Thekeytoremovingthezestistotakethelemon’sthintopyellowlayerandleaveasmuchofthebitterwhitepithbehindaspossible.Finelygratedzestreleasesmoreofthefruit’svolatileoil—henceflavor—thanlargestrips,sochooseyourzestingtoolaccordingtotheintensityofflavoryourdishrequires.Alwayszestintothebowlorpanyou’lluseinthecourseofmakingtherecipetocatchthemistoflemonoilthat’sreleasedasyouremovetheskin.

ToolsforzestingTheshallowbladesofatraditionalfive-holezesterremovethinstrandsfromthetoplayerofthepeel.Thelongstrandscanbeusedwhole,toinfuseanitemwithflavor,orchopped.Whenarecipecallsforfinelyorcoarselychoppedzest,useatraditionalzestertoremovethepeel.Anaverage,ormedium,4-to5-ouncelemonwillyield1tablespoonofchoppedzest.

Bartendersuseachannelknifetomakethecurlytwistofcitrustraditionalincocktails.Butit’sthelemonoilthatisreleasedwiththetwistthataddstheflavor.

UseavegetablepeelerwithaY-shapedhandleandsharpbladetoremove1-inch-widestripsofpeelforcandyingandinfusions.Oneaverage,ormedium,4-to5-ouncelemonwillyieldsevenoreightstripsofpeel.

Aboxgraterisonewaytogetfinelygratedzest.Stretchapieceofplasticwrapoverthesideofthegraterwiththesmallestholesand,holdingittaut,grateasusual.Thezest(andpreciousessentialoils)willendupontheplasticwrapratherthanstuckintheholesofthegraterandcanbeeasilyandthoroughlyremoved.Gratedthisway,oneaverage,ormedium,4-to5-ouncelemonyieldsabout2teaspoonsoffinelygratedzest.

AMicroplane/raspcanalsobeusedforfinelygratedzest.Fastandeasytouse,itgentlyremovestheyellowskin(leavingthepithbehind)andessentialoilsinafine,featheryzest—justrubthefruitagainstitwithquickdownwardstrokes,rotatingasyougo,togetthezestallthewayaround.Oneaverage,ormedium,4-to5-ouncelemonyieldsapproximately1tablespoonoflightlypacked,finelygratedzest.

HowtoJuiceaLemonIflemonistheflavoryou’rehighlightinginarecipe(thinklemonbarsorcurd),there’snosubstituteforfreshlemonjuice.You’veprobablynoticedtheoff-flavorthatmostbottledlemonjuicehas,moreacidicthanbright.That’sbecausethebottledstuffusuallycontainsadditivessuchassugarandwater,aswellaspreservatives,includingcitricacidandsulfites.Ifit’sacidityratherthanlemonflavoryou’reafter,tryvinegarinstead.

Tokeepplentyoffreshlemonjuiceonhandwithoutworryingaboutabagoflemonsgoingbad,getoutthejuicer.Firstthough,removethezest,asit’smoredifficulttozestfruitsafterjuicing.Storethezestinasmallairtightplasticcontainerinthefreezerforuptosixmonths.Addtoyoursupplywheneveryouneedlemonjuicebutnotthezest.Next,juicethefruitandfreezeitinsmallportionsinsomethinglikeanicecubetray.Whenthecubesarefrozen,popthemoutintoazipperedbag.Thesmallamountdefrostsquicklyandcanevenbeaddeddirectlytohotfoods.

TipsforjuicingTogetthemostjuice,startwithaclean,drylemonandusethepalmofyourhandtoapplygentlepressureasyourollthefruitagainstthecuttingboard.Halvethefruitcrosswise.(Thoughthere’saschoolofthoughtthatalemonhalvedlengthwiseyieldsmorejuicethanonecutcrosswise,that’snotbeenmyexperience.)Room-temperaturelemonswillusuallyyieldabitmorejuicethancoldones.

ToolsforjuicingAreamer(orfork)isalow-tech,inexpensivetoolthatisalsooneofthemosteffectiveforjuicing.Theideawithboththereamerandforkistoholdthecutfruitinonehand,plungethetoolinwiththeother,andtwistitsothatitgrabsandpressesthefleshofthefruit,releasingthejuice.(Thisalsoreleasestheseeds,whichistheonlydrawback.)Therearereamerattachmentsforstandmixerstoo.

Handjuicersoperateonthesameprincipalasreamers,buttheyhaveasaucertocatchtheseeds.Placethelemonhalfoverthereamercapandtwist,usinglightpressure,toreleasethejuiceandlittlebitsoftheflesh.

Ahandheldcitruspresscradlesthecitrushalfintheconcavesideofthejuicer,cutsidedown.Whentheconvexdomeisloweredontothecitrus,itflipsitinsideout,effectivelyremovingallthejuiceandnoneoftheseedsorpulp.

Howmuchjuiceisinalemon?Theamountofjuiceyou’llextractfromalemonvarieswidely,basedonthesizeofthefruit,itstemperature(coldfruityieldslessjuice),andthemethodusedtoextractthejuice.Forthemostpart,thelargerthelemon,themorejuiceitwillgiveyou;thick-skinned,conventionallygrownlemonswhichcanweighuptoone-halfpoundeachareanexceptiontothisrule.

Onesmallorganiclemon,weighing3to4ounces,containsaround2tablespoonsofjuice,whileanaverage,ormedium,4-to5-ouncelemonwillyieldupto¼cupofjuice.Aconventionallemonweighing7to8ounceswillyieldabout¼cupplus1tablespoonofjuice.

HowtoPeelandSegmentaLemonThebestwaytopeelalemon(andmostothercitrus)istobeginbyslicingoffenoughoftheblossomandstemendstoexposesomeofthepulp.Thenstandthefruitononeofitsflatsidesonacuttingboard.Usingasmallsharpknife,cutawaythepeelandwhitepith,

followingthenaturalcurveofthefruit.Whenyouarefinished,thefleshwillbecompletelyexposed.Shaveoffanystraybitsofpith.Toremovethesegments(alsocalledsupremes),workoverabowltocatchanyjuiceasyoucutthepulpawayfromthemembranesconnectingthem,allowingthefruitsegmentstodropintothebowlwiththejuice.

HowtoStoreLemonsIfkeptawayfromdirectsunlight,lemonswillstayfreshatroomtemperatureforaboutoneweek.Storetheminthecrisperdraweroftherefrigeratorforlongerperiodsoftime,uptoaboutonemonth.

UsingNonreactiveCookwareReactivecookwareandequipmentmadefromaluminum,castiron,orcoppercanimpartametallictasteand/orcausediscolorationincertainfoods,especiallyacidicoralkalineingredientslikelemonjuice,vinegar,andsalt.Whenarecipecallsforanonreactivebowlorpan,useglass,enamel,ceramic,orstainlesssteeltoavoidsuchareaction.

breakfasts

BakedEggswithLemon,Cream,andPoppySeeds

David’sDouble-LemonDutchBaby

LemonMuffinswithCrystallizedGinger

LemonCornmealRicottaWaffles

bakedeggswithlemon,cream,andpoppyseeds

bakedeggswithlemon,cream,andpoppyseedsThiscombinationwaslooselyinspiredbyapastadishonthemenuatEmily,arestaurantinBrooklyn.Eggsandlemongetalongfamously,andIliketheideaofpairingthetwowithpoppyseedsinasavorydish.usingbothlemonoilandzestprovidesacomplexhitofflavor.

Thissimpledishdeservesthebest,freshesteggsyoucanfind.serveitwithacrustybaguette,splitdownthemiddleandlightlytoasted,forscoopinganddipping.Addasmallgreensaladandyouhavethemakingsofanelegantlunchorbrunch.Notethatyou’llneedtouse4½-to5-inchramekinsforindividualservings.

MAKES4SERVINGS

6teaspoonsLemon-InfusedOliveOil,extra-virginoliveoil,ormeltedbutter,divided

1mediumshallot,finelyminced,divided

2tablespoonsfinelygratedlemonzest,divided

1ounceParmesancheese,finelygrated(about½cup),divided

¾cupheavycream,divided

Koshersalt

8eggs,atroomtemperature

2teaspoonspoppyseeds,divided

4teaspoonsfinelychoppedfreshchives,divided

Preheattheovento350degreesF.

Thoroughlycoatthebottomandsidesof4ovenprooframekinsorbakingdishes,using1½teaspoonsoftheoilforeach.Puttheramekinsonabakingsheetwithsides(tomakemovingtheminandoutoftheoveneasier).

Dividetheshallotamongtheramekins,addingnomorethan2teaspoonsperdish.Add1½teaspoonsofthezestand1tablespoonofthecheesetoeachramekin,coverwith1tablespoonofthecream,andseasonwithapinchofsalt.

Carefullycrack2eggsintoeachdish,startingwithanewoneiftheyolkbreaks.Pour2tablespoonsoftheremainingcreamovereachyolkandsprinkleitwith1tablespoonoftheremainingcheese,½teaspoonpoppyseeds,andapinchofsalt.Bakefor10to12minutes,oruntiltheeggsarejustslightlyset.Garnisheacheggwith1teaspoonofthechivesandserveimmediately.

david’sdouble-lemondutchbaby

david’sdouble-lemondutchbabyThiscustardy,oven-bakedpancakegoesbyseveraldifferentnames,butwhenIwasgrowingup,wecalleditDavidEyre’sPancake,whichiswhatCraigClaibornedubbeditinhis1966NewYorkTimescolumn.Thefirsttimemymothermadethepancake,mysisterandIwatcheditswellandsouffléaroundtheedgesthroughtheovenwindow,atleastasexcitedaboutwhatitwasdoingashowitwouldtaste.Somewherealongtheway,becauseIloveitsflavorinbakedgoods,IstartedaddingcardamomtothebatterandrechristenedthepancakeDavid’sDutchBaby,anodbothtocardamom’swideuseinScandinaviancookinganditsother,equallypopularname.Besuretobuycardamomencasedinitspodandgrindtheseedsfreshforthebestflavor.ThisisafavoriteonSaturdaymorningsatmyhouse.

MAKESONE10-INCHPANCAKE

1cupunbleachedall-purposeflour

1tablespoongranulatedsugar

Generouspinchofkoshersalt

Seedsfrom4to5greencardamompods(about¼teaspoonseeds)

4eggs

1cupwholemilk

1tablespoonfinelygratedlemonzest

¼cup(½stick)unsaltedbutter

¼cupconfectioners’sugar

2tablespoonsfreshlysqueezedlemonjuice

Preheattheovento425degreesFandplacearackinthemiddleoftheoven.

Inasmallbowl,stirtogethertheflour,granulatedsugar,andsalt.Finelygrindthecardamomseedsusingamortarandpestleorcleancoffeegrinderandaddtothedryingredients.Setaside.

Inalargebowl,lightlywhisktheeggswiththemilkandzest.Addthedryingredientsandlightlywhiskuntilblended.Thebatterdoesn’thavetobecompletelysmooth,butmakesuretherearen’tanylargelumpsofflour.

Inamedium(10-inch)cast-ironskilletovermedium-highheat,meltthebutter,swirlingthepanoccasionally,untilthebutterisveryhotandfoamy,andalmostbeginningtobrown.Immediatelypourinthebatterandputtheskilletintheoven.Bakefor20minutes,oruntiltheedgesarebillowyandbrownandthecenterofthepancakehaspuffedup.Removethepanfromtheoven,sprinklethepancakeevenlywiththeconfectioners’sugar,andreturnittotheovenfor2to3moreminutes.Sprinklethelemonjuiceoverthetopandserveimmediately.

lemonmuffinswithcrystallizedgingerAwholelemon,finelychopped,andasmallhandfulofcrystallizedgingerpunchuptheflavorofthesemuffinsinthewintermonths.Comesummer,swapthegingerforfreshblueberriesorhuckleberriesforalemonytwistonafamiliarbreakfastfavorite.Ifyou’relookingtoimpress,scoopthebatterintotulipbakingcups.Cooled,glazed,andgarnishedwithcandiedlemonpeelorcrystallizedgingerpieces,theycouldprobablybepassedoffasdessert!

MAKES1DOZENMUFFINS

1¾cupsunbleachedall-purposeflour

2teaspoonsbakingpowder

¾teaspoonkoshersalt

½teaspoonbakingsoda

1smallthin-skinnedlemon

10tablespoons(1¼sticks)unsaltedbutter,atroomtemperature

1cupsugar

2eggs

1teaspoonvanillaextract

1cupwholemilkGreekyogurt

½cupplus3tablespoonscoarselychoppedcandiedginger,divided

FORTHEGLAZE:

½cupconfectioners’sugar

1tablespoonplus1teaspoonfreshlysqueezedlemonjuice

Preheattheovento350degreesF.Lineastandard12-cupmuffintinwithpaperlinersorlightlybutteranddustitwithflour.

Inasmallbowl,whisktogethertheflour,bakingpowder,salt,andbakingsoda.Setaside.

Trimtheblossomandstemendsofthelemon,removingenoughrindthatthepulpshows,thenhalveit.Gentlysqueezeeachhalfoverabowltoloosentheseedsandremovesomeofthejuicebeforecuttingthehalvesintosmallerpieces,removinganyseedsasyougo.Placethepiecesandjuiceinablenderorthebowlofafoodprocessorandprocessuntilthelargestpiecesarethesizeofagrainofrice.Setaside.

Inthebowlofastandmixerfittedwiththepaddleattachmentorusingahandheldelectricmixer,beatthebutterandsugaronmedium-highspeeduntillightandfluffy,about5minutes.Usingaspatula,scrapethesidesofthebowl,thenreducethespeedtomediumandaddtheeggsoneatatime,mixinguntilthoroughlycombined.Addthevanillaandbeatseveralseconds.

Addone-thirdofthedryingredientsandincorporateonlowspeed,thenincreasethespeed

tomediumandmixfor1minute.Addhalfoftheyogurtandmixbrieflytoincorporate.Addhalfoftheremainingdryingredientsandincorporateonlowspeedbeforeincreasingthespeedtomediumfor1minute.Repeatwiththeremainingyogurtanddryingredients.Usingaspatula,scrapethebottomandsidesofthebowlandfoldinthechoppedlemonand½cupofthecandiedginger.Useanicecreamscooptodistributethebatterevenlyamongthepreparedmuffincups.

Bakefor35to45minutes,oruntilthemuffinsspringbacktothetouch.Transfertoawireracktocoolcompletelybeforeglazing.

Tomaketheglaze,inasmallbowl,mixtheconfectioners’sugarandlemonjuicewithaforkuntilsmooth.Spoonasmallamountoneachmuffin,spreadingitslightlywiththebackofthespoon.Finelychoptheremaining3tablespoonscrystallizedgingerandsprinkleitoverthemuffins.

lemoncornmealricottawaffles

lemoncornmealricottawafflesThisbatterpuffsupenthusiasticallywhenithitsahotgriddle,sodon’tletthelackofawafflemakergetinthewayofwhippingupabatch.Thethickbattertakeslongertocookthroughthansomepancakebatters,sobesuretostartwithahotpanovermediumheat,adjustingtheheatasyougo.Ifyouopttoslipinslicesofbananaorahandfuloffreshblueberries,makesureyoucookthepancakesanextraminuteortwooneachside.

Iliketoeatthesetoppedwithfreshfruitandpowderedsugar,butIdoubtyou’dbeunhappyifyouwentwithwarmmaplesyrup,homemadejam,oradrizzleofhoneyinstead.

MAKESABOUT1DOZEN4-INCHBELGIANWAFFLES,ORSIXTEEN3-INCHPANCAKES

2cupsunbleachedall-purposeflour

¼cupcornmeal

¼cupsugar

2teaspoonsbakingpowder

1teaspoonkoshersalt

Scant½teaspoonfreshlygratednutmeg

½teaspoonbakingsoda

1cupwholemilk

⅓cupfreshlysqueezedlemonjuice(from2mediumlemons)

2tablespoonsfinelychoppedlemonzest(from2mediumlemons)

2eggs

¼cup(½stick)plus2tablespoonsunsaltedbutter,meltedandcooled,divided

¾cupHomemadeRicottaCheeseorstore-bought

1teaspoonvanillaextract

Preheattheovento200degreesF.Preheatthewaffleironaccordingtothemanufacturer’sinstructions.

Inalargebowl,stirtogethertheflour,cornmeal,sugar,bakingpowder,salt,nutmeg,andbakingsoda.Inamediumbowl,whiskthemilk,lemonjuiceandzest,andeggs,thenwhiskin¼cupofthebutter.Addthewetingredientstothedry,mixingjustuntilmoistened.It’sokayifsomelumpsremain.Inasmallbowl,breakupanyclumpsofricottausingaforkandmixinthevanilla.Gentlyfoldthecheeseintothebatterusingaspatula.Donotovermix;thebattermaybethickandslightlylumpy.

Lightlycoatthewaffleironwiththeremaining2tablespoonsbutter.Pourenoughbatterintothewaffleirontojustcoverthegrid(about⅓cup).Closeandcookpermanufacturer’sinstructionsuntilgoldenbrown,about2to3minutes.Transfercookedwafflestoabakingsheettokeepwarmwhileyoumaketherest.

Ifyou’remakingpancakes,lightlycoatagriddlewithbutterandmeltthebutterovermediumheat.Workinginbatches,pour¼cupofbatterperpancakeontothegriddle.Cookuntilthesurfaceisbubblingandtheedgesareslightlydry,about4minutes.Turnandcookuntilthebottomisgoldenbrown,another3to4minutes.Transfercookedpancakestoabakingsheettokeepwarm.

Becausereheatedwafflestasteeverybitasgoodasthosehotoffthewaffleiron,Iusuallyputtogetherandbakeafullbatch,evenifthefreshonesarejustfortwo.Lettheextrawafflescoolcompletely,puttheminaziplockfreezerbag,andfreezeforupto2months.Foraspurofthemomentbreakfasttreat,popthefrozenwaffles(noneedtothaw)intoatoasterortoasterovenuntilhotandcrisp.Toreheatalargerbatch,crispthemina350-degreeFovenforabout10minutes.

salads

ShavedZucchiniSaladwithLemonandMarjoram

KaleandBrusselsSproutsSaladwithLemon–BrownButterVinaigrette

SummerTomatoandGreenBeanSaladwithPreservedLemonVinaigrette

CrackedWheatandCarrotSaladwithPreservedLemon

shavedzucchinisaladwithlemonandmarjoram

shavedzucchinisaladwithlemonandmarjoramThoughyoucouldalsousemintororegano,marjoram—oregano’ssoft-spokenlittlesister—pairsespeciallywellwithzucchiniinthissimplesalad.

Saltingthezucchinibeforeassemblingthesaladcausesittowiltslightlyandgivesitenoughflavortostanduptothepluckylemon-forwarddressing.Don’tletitsittoolong,however,orthezucchiniwillgetsquishyandwet,andloseanytextureitoncehad.Long,thinshavingsofPecorinoRomanooranothersaltysheep’smilkcheese,madewithavegetablepeeler,areanicefinishingtouch.

MAKES4TO6SERVINGS

1½pounds(about3to4small)zucchini,thinlyslicedlengthwiseonamandolinorwithavegetablepeeler

2teaspoonskoshersalt

3tablespoonsfreshlysqueezedlemonjuice

1smallshallot,thinlyslicedonamandolinorfinelyminced

1tablespoonfinelygratedlemonzest

¼cupextra-virginoliveoil

1tablespoonfinelychoppedfreshmarjoram

PecorinoRomanocheeseshavings,forgarnish(optional)

Inacolandersittingoverabowlorinthesink,combinethezucchiniribbonsandsalt.Tosswelltocoattheribbonsandsetasidefor10minutes.After10minutes,gatherupthezucchiniinseverallargehandfuls,andgentlysqueezesomeofthemoistureoutofeach.

Inalargebowl,mixthelemonjuicewiththeshallotandasmallpinchofsalt.Addthezestandwhiskintheoilinaslow,steadystream.Stirinthemarjoramandaddthezucchiniribbonstothebowl,tossingtoevenlycoatthem.Serveimmediately,toppedwiththecheeseshavings.

kaleandbrusselssproutssaladwithlemon–brownbuttervinaigrette

Thinkofthissaladasawinterslaw,brightenedwithchunksofcreamyavocadoandnuttysunflowerseeds.Ifyou’resoinclined,it’sgoodwithalittlebitofcitrus:sectionsofpinkgrapefruit,bloodorange,ortangerinearealldeliciousadditions.

MAKES4TO6SERVINGS

2smallbuncheslacinatokale(about1pound),stemsremovedandleavesslicedintothinribbons

8ouncesbrusselssprouts(about12to16),halvedandthinlysliced

¼smallredonion,thinlysliced

½cup(1stick)unsaltedbutter,cutintosmallpieces

FORTHEVINAIGRETTE:

¼cupwhitewinevinegar

⅓cupfreshlysqueezedlemonjuice(from2mediumlemons)

1tablespoonfinelychoppedlemonzest

2tablespoonsfinelymincedshallot

Pinchkoshersalt

¼cupextra-virginoliveoil

1tablespoonhoney

Freshlygroundblackpepper

..........

1firm,ripeavocado,pittedandcubed

¼cuptoastedsunflowerseeds

Inalargebowl,combinethekale,brusselssprouts,andonion.Setthesaladasidewhileyoubrownthebutter.

Inasmall,light-coloredpanthatallowsyoutoseethecolorofthebutter,meltthebutterovermediumheat,swirlingitoccasionallytoensureitmeltsevenly.Itwillbegintofoamandchangecolor,fromlightyellowtogoldenbrowntoaslightlydarker,toastybrownthatsmellsnutty.Removethepanfromtheheatandtransferthecontentstoasmallheatproofbowl.Themilksolidswillhavesettledtothebottomofthepanandbrowned;leaveasmuchofthatsedimentbehindaspossible.Setthebutteraside.

Inamediumnonreactivebowl,combinethevinegarandlemonjuicewiththezest,shallot,andabigpinchofsalt.Whisktheoilintothewarmbutterandaddthehoney.Slowlydrizzlethemixtureintothevinegarandlemonjuice,whiskingconstantly,untilthevinaigretteemulsifies.Checktheseasoningandaddsaltandpeppertotaste.

Addabout¼cupofthewarmvinaigrettetothegreensandmassagethemwithyourhands

untiltheysoftenslightlyandfeellessraw.Continuetoaddthevinaigrette,afewtablespoonsatatime,untilthegreensarewelldressedbutnotsoggy(reserveanyextravinaigretteforanotheruse).Addtheavocadoandsunflowerseeds,tosstocombine,andserveimmediately.

summertomatoandgreenbeansaladwithpreservedlemonvinaigrette

summertomatoandgreenbeansaladwithpreservedlemonvinaigrette

Thissalad,simplydressedinazippy,herbaceousvinaigrette,showcasesthebestofsummer.Serveitwithgrilledfish,orskipthericottasalataandaddgood-qualitycannedtunaandafewboiledpotatoesforaquickNiçoisesalad.

MAKES8SERVINGS

FORTHEVINAIGRETTE:

1tablespoonplus1½teaspoonsfinelymincedshallot

3tablespoonsfreshlysqueezedlemonjuice

Pinchkoshersalt

1tablespoonDijonmustard

2teaspoonshoney

½cupextra-virginoliveoil

6tablespoonscoarselychoppedsoftherbssuchasparsley,basil,tarragon,andchives

1½teaspoonsfinelygratedlemonzest

½PreservedLemonorstore-bought,fleshdiscardedandpeelfinelychopped

Freshlygroundblackpepper

..........

2pintsmixedcherrytomatoes,halved

1½poundsgreenbeans,trimmed

2ouncesricottasalatacheese,shavedwithavegetablepeeler

Tomakethevinaigrette,inasmall,nonreactivebowl,combinetheshallotsandlemonjuicewiththesalt.Setasidefor10minutestoallowtheshallotstosoftenandsweetenslightly.Then,addthemustardandhoney,andslowlydrizzleintheoil,whiskingconstantly,untilthevinaigretteemulsifies.Stirintheherbs,lemonzest,andpreservedlemon,andseasontotastewithsaltandpepper.

Inamediumbowl,tossthetomatoeswith½cupvinaigretteandsetasidetomarinateforatleast20minutes,oruntilyou’rereadytoservethesalad.

Whilethetomatoesmarinate,bringapotofgenerouslysaltedwatertoaboil.Cookthebeansuntilthey’rejusttender,about4minutes.Draintheminacolanderandcoolthebeansbyrunningthemundercoldwaterbriefly.Spreadthemonabakingsheetlinedwithacleantowel.Setasideuntilcompletelycoolanddry.

Justbeforeserving,addthebeansandricottasalatashavingstothetomatoesandvinaigrette.Tosstocombinetheingredients,addtheremainingvinaigretteandseasontotastewithadditionalsaltandpepper.Marinatefor10minutesbeforeserving.

crackedwheatandcarrotsaladwithpreservedlemonThere’sasatisfyingvarietyofflavorsandtexturesatplayinthisrecipe:salty,sweet,crunchy,andchewyfromthecrackedwheat.Thisismadebycrushingrawwheatberriesintosmallerpiecesinordertopreservethenutrient-richbranandgermlayers.Ifyou’reshortontime,substitutebulgur,whichisprecooked,forthecrackedwheat.Quinoaandmilletaregoodgluten-freealternatives.Allfouringredientscanbefoundatwell-stockedgroceryandnaturalfoodsstores.

Idon’trinsethepreservedlemon;itusuallyhastherightamountofsalttoseasonthevinaigretteandsalad.Youmayneedtoaddmoresaltbeforeserving,asthegrainscontinuetoabsorbtheflavorswhilethesaladsits.

MAKES4TO6SERVINGS

1cupcrackedwheat

1teaspoonkoshersalt

½PreservedLemonorstore-bought

⅓cupextra-virginoliveoil

2to3tablespoonsfreshlysqueezedlemonjuice(dependingonhowlemonyyoulikeyourdressing)

2teaspoonscoarselychoppedgarlic

¾teaspooncuminseeds,toastedandground

3carrots,thinlysliced(about2cups)

⅓cupcurrants

3scallions,whiteandlightgreenparts,thinlysliced

Freshlygroundblackpepper

1cuplightlypackedcoarselychoppedflat-leafparsley

Inaheavypanwithatight-fittinglid,placethecrackedwheatandsaltwith2cupsofwater.Bringthewatertoaboilandreducetheheattoasimmer.Coverandcontinuetocookoverthelowestheat,stirringoccasionally,untilthewheatistenderyetpleasantlychewy,20to25minutes.Drainanywaterthatremains.

Whilethewheatiscooking,separatethepulpofthepreservedlemonfromthepeel,removetheseeds,andaddthepulptoablender.Finelymincethepeelandreserveit.Addtheoil,lemonjuice,garlic,andcuminseedsandblenduntilsmooth.

Putthecrackedwheatinalargebowlwiththecarrots,currants,andscallions,toallowthewarmgrainstosoftentheotheringredientsslightly.Addhalfofthevinaigretteandthereservedlemonpeel.Stirwelltoincorporatethevinaigrette.Tastethesalad,addingmorevinaigretteifitisn’tflavorfulenough.Letthesaladsitfor15minutes,tasteagain,andaddpeppertotasteandmorevinaigretteifneeded(reserveextradressingforanotheruse).Addtheparsleyjustbeforeserving.

sides

ToastedCauliflower“Couscous”withLemon,Parsley,andAlmonds

ButteryHedgehogPotatoeswithLemonandHerbs

GrilledCornontheCobwithSmokedPaprika-LemonButter

PepperyLemonParmesanBiscotti

LemonMiso-RoastedDelicataSquash

toastedcauliflower“couscous”withlemon,parsley,andalmonds

toastedcauliflower“couscous”withlemon,parsley,andalmonds

Cauliflowerhasanuncannyabilitytotrickthemouthintobelievingit’sconsumingsomethingladenwithglutenorcarbs,suchaspotatoes,rice,or,inthiscase,couscous.Whetherit’sfinelychoppedorpureed,thevegetabletakesonbuttery,silkyqualitiesthatdon’tshowupwhenit’ssteamedorroasted.

MAKES4SERVINGS

1(2-pound)headcauliflower,cutintosmallfloretswithV-inchorlessofstem

⅓cupsliveredalmondsorpinenuts

5tablespoonsextra-virginoliveoil,divided

1½teaspoonskoshersalt

1smallgarlicclove,finelygratedorminced

1tablespoonfinelygratedlemonzest

3tablespoonsfreshlysqueezedlemonjuice

1cuplightlypackedflat-leafparsleyleaves,coarselychopped

Freshlygroundblackpepper

Usingafoodprocessorwitheitherthegratingattachmentorblade,grateorpulsethecauliflowerinbatchesuntilitresemblesgrainsofcouscous.Youshouldhaveabout4cups.(Youcanalsouseaknifetodicetheflorets,whichwilleasilybreakintoverysmallpiecesasyougo.)

Inalarge,wideskilletovermediumheat,toastthealmonds,stirringfrequently,untiltheysmellnuttyandaregoldenbrown,about7minutes.Setthenutsasideandwipeoutthepan.Warm3tablespoonsoftheoilovermedium-highheat.Whentheoilishot,addthecauliflowerandsalt.Sauté,stirringfrequently,untilthecauliflowerpiecesaretoastedandtender,12to15minutes.

Removethepanfromtheheatandimmediatelyaddthegarlicandzest,stirringwelltodistributetheflavorsthroughout.Afterthemixturehascooledslightly,addtheremaining2tablespoonsoil,thelemonjuice,almonds,andparsley.Seasonwithadditionalsaltandpepper,andallowthecauliflowertositforatleast15minutes,partiallycovered,fortheflavorstodevelop.Itisexcellentatroomtemperatureorcanberewarmedbrieflyovermedium-highheatbeforeserving.

butteryhedgehogpotatoeswithlemonandherbsTraditionallyknownasHasselbackpotatoes,thisdishisnamedfortheSwedishrestaurantwhereitoriginated,Hasselbacken.Hedgehogs,asIliketocallthisdish,aregoodwithalmostanypotato,thoughI’mespeciallyfondofYukonGoldsandRedBlisspotatoes.Repeatedbastingwitholiveoilandapluckylemon-and-herbcompoundbutterthatdribblesdownintotheaccordionfoldshastheeffectofcreatingcrispyedgessurroundingacreamy,flavorfulinterior.Asqueezeoflemononthestill-warmpotatoesaddsjusttherighthintofacidity.

MAKES6TO8SERVINGS

½cup(1stick)unsaltedbutter,atroomtemperature

3tablespoonsfinelychoppedfreshparsley

1½tablespoonsfinelygratedlemonzest(from2smalllemons)

1tablespoonfinelychoppedfreshmarjoram

1tablespoonfinelychoppedfreshchives

2smallclovesgarlic

1teaspoonkoshersalt

2tablespoonsfreshlysqueezedlemonjuice

20egg-sizeYukonGoldorRedBlisspotatoes(about4pounds)

2tablespoonsLemon-InfusedOliveOilorextravirginoliveoil

Freshlygroundblackpepper

½lemon

Inasmallbowl,combinethebutterwiththeparsley,lemonzest,marjoram,andchives.

Coarselychopthegarlicandsprinklethesaltoverit.Continuetochopthegarlicwiththesalt,holdingtheknifeata30-degreeangletothecuttingboardandpullingitacrossthepileofgarlicandsalttomakeapaste.Addthegarlicpasteandlemonjuicetothebutteranduseaforkorthebackofaspoontoincorporateit.Transferthebuttertoapieceofplasticwrapandshapeitintoalog1inchindiameter.Refrigerateuntilfirm,about30minutes.

Preheattheovento425degreesF.

Usingawoodenspoontocradlethepotato,slicethepotatoescrosswise,makingacutevery¼inch.(Thespoonwillpreventyoufromslicingallthewaythroughandseparatingtheslicesfromoneanother.)

Placethepotatoesinabakingpanandbrushthemalloverwiththeoil.Sprinklethemlightlywithsaltandpepperandbakefor30minutes,oruntilthesliceshavebeguntofanoutslightlyandseparatefromoneanother.Removethepanfromtheovenanduseaparingknifetonudgeapartanyslicesthatarestickingtooneanother.Placeasmallcoin—

or2,dependingonthesizeofyourpotatoes—ofbutterontopofeachpotato,pressingdowngentlytoencourageittomeltdownbetweentheslices;you’llhavesomebutterleftover.Bakethepotatoesforanother30minutes,bastingthemoccasionallywiththebutterinthebottomofthepan.Theyaredonewhenthetopsareslightlybrownandcrispy,andthemiddlesaretenderwhenpiercedwithaparingknife.Squeezethelemonhalfoverthepotatoesandserveimmediately.

grilledcornonthecobwithsmokedpaprika-lemonbutter

Whensweetcornisinseason,there’snothingI’drathereatfordinnerthanslicedtomatoesandtwoearsgrilledlikethis.IttastesalittlebitlikethegrilledcornsoldbystreetvendorsinMexicothatisslatheredingarlickymayonnaiseandsprinkledwithlimejuiceandcrumblyCotijacheese.Insteadofmayonnaise,Ibastethecornwithabrownbutterspreadseasonedwithplentyoflemonzestandjuice,plusgarlic,salt,andsmokedpaprika.

MAKES6SERVINGS

½cup(1stick)unsaltedbutter

1tablespoonfinelygratedlemonzest

1clovegarlic,finelygrated

3tablespoonsfreshlysqueezedlemonjuice

½teaspoonsmokedpaprika

1½teaspoonskoshersalt

6earsfreshsweetcorn

3tablespoonscoarselychoppedfreshcilantro

Inasmall,light-coloredpanthatallowsyoutoseethecolorofthebutter,meltthebutterovermediumheat,swirlingitoccasionallytoensureitmeltsevenly.Itwillbegintofoamandchangecolor,fromlightyellowtogoldenbrowntoaslightlydarker,toastybrownthatsmellsnutty.Removethepanfromtheheatandtransferthecontentstoasmallheatproofbowl.Themilksolidswillhavesettledtothebottomofthepanandbrowned;leaveasmuchofthatsedimentbehindaspossible.Addthezestandgarlictothewarmbrownbutter.Allowthebuttertocoolcompletely,thenstirinthelemonjuice,paprika,andsalt.

Peelanddiscardtheoutercornhusks.Carefullypullbackthepale-greeninnerhusksandremovethesilk.Coverthekernelswiththehuskagain,tietheendwithkitchenstring,andsoaktheearsincoldwaterforatleast30minutes.

Preheatagasgrillforhighheat,about450degreesF,orprepareacharcoalgrillfordirect-heatcookingoverred-hotcoals.Removethecornfromthewater,andshakeoffanyexcessmoisture.Putthecornonthegrillandclosethelid.Turnthecornevery5minutes,sothatitcooksevenly,for10to15minutes.Untiethestring,peelbackthehusks,brushthecornwiththebutter,andcontinuetocookwiththehuskspeeledbackuntilthekernelsarecaramelizedonallsides,3to5moreminutes.

Removethecornfromthegrill,brushalloverwithmorebutter,andsprinklewithmoresalttotasteandthecilantro.

pepperylemonparmesanbiscottiThesesavorybiscottihaveitall:richnessandumamifromthecheese,brightnessfromthelemon,andacrunchykickfromthesemolinaandagenerousdoseoffreshlygroundblackpepper.Servethemwithwine,fordunkinginsoup,orwithfruitandcheese.

MAKESABOUT3DOZENBISCOTTI

1½cupsunbleachedall-purposeflour

½cupsemolinaflour

2ouncesParmigiano-Reggianocheese,finelygrated(about1cup)

2tablespoonsfinelychoppedlemonzest(from2mediumlemons)

1tablespoonfreshlygroundblackpepper

2teaspoonskoshersalt

1teaspoonbakingpowder

¼cupextra-virginoliveoil

3eggs,divided

⅓cupwholemilk

Preheattheovento350degreesF.

Inalargebowl,thoroughlycombinetheflours,cheese,zest,pepper,salt,andbakingpowder.Drizzletheoiloverthetopanduseyourfingerstogentlyincorporateitintotheflour,untilthemixtureresemblescornmeal.

Inasmallbowl,whisk2oftheeggswiththemilkandaddthemtotheflourmixture,stirringwithaforktoformasoft,stickydough.Lightlymoistenyourhands(topreventthedoughfromstickingtothem)anddividethedoughinhalf.Arrangethepieceslengthwiseonabakingsheetlinedwithparchmentpaper.Shapeeachpieceintoalogapproximately12incheslong,3incheswide,and½inchhigh,lightlywettingyourhandsasnecessarytopreventsticking.Whisktheremainingeggandbrushthelogswithit.

Bakefor30minutes,rotatingthepanhalfwaythrough,oruntilthelogsarepalegoldenbrown.Removethesheettoarackandreducetheoventemperatureto300degreesF.Coolthelogsfor10minutes,transferthemtoacuttingboard,and,usingaserratedknife,cuteachlogdiagonallyinto½-inch-thickslices.Returnthebiscottitothebakingsheetandbakeforanother35to45minutes,turningthemoverhalfwaythroughthebakingtime.Thebiscottiarereadywhenthey’redryandlightgoldenbrownonbothsides.Theywillkeepupto2weeksinanairtightcontainer.

lemonmiso-roasteddelicatasquashOneofmyfavoritethingsaboutdelicatasquashisitstender,entirelyedibleskin,whichmakesitthemostuser-friendlywintersquash.Theseflavorsarefabulouswithcarrotstoo,ortrysubstitutingcilantrofortheparsley.You’llfindwhitemiso,madefromsoybeansthathavebeenfermentedwithrice,inwell-stockedgroceries,naturalfoodsstores,andAsianmarkets.

MAKES4TO6SERVINGS

3tablespoonswhitemiso

3tablespoonsextra-virginoliveoil

3tablespoonsfreshlysqueezedlemonjuice,divided

1tablespoonhoney

2teaspoonsharissa

1½poundsdelicatasquash(about3to4),halvedlengthwise,seeded,andcutinto½-inchthickmoons

1tablespoonfinelygratedlemonzest

½cupcoarselychoppedflat-leafparsley

Koshersalt

Preheattheovento425degreesF.

Inalargebowl,whisktogetherthemiso,oil,2tablespoonsofthelemonjuice,thehoney,andharissa.Addthesquashpiecestothebowlanduseyourhandstotossthemwiththepaste,makingsuretocoatthemevenly.Arrangetheminasinglelayeronalightlyoiledbakingsheetwithsides.Setthebowlasideforlater.

Roastthesquashfor15minutes.Removethepanfromtheovenand,usingtongs,turnthepiecesover.Returnthemtotheovenfor10moreminutes,oruntilthepiecesarelightlycaramelizedandtender.Transferthesquashbacktothebowlandtosswiththeremaining1tablespoonlemonjuice,thezest,andparsley.Seasontotastewithsalt.

vegetarian

Lemon–GoatCheeseGnocchiwithShellingPeasandGreenGarlic

Lentil-ChardSoupwithLemon,Feta,andDill

AsparagusandLemonPestoPizzawithSmokedMozzarella

SpaghettiwithRadicchio,Ricotta,andLemon-GarlicBreadCrumbs

LemonDalwithSpinachandYogurt

lemon–goatcheesegnocchiwithshellingpeasandgreengarlic

lemon–goatcheesegnocchiwithshellingpeasandgreengarlic

Thecolorsandflavorsofthisdisharetheveryessenceofspring,butdon’twaitfordaffodilstomakeanappearancebeforetryingit.Therich,lemonygnocchicometogetherquickly,canbecookedaheadandrefrigeratedovernight,andpairequallywellwithflash-sautéedcherrytomatoes,shallots,andherbsinthesummer;chanterellesandcorninthefall;andbraisedlamborbeefinthewinter.

MAKES6TO8SERVINGS

8ouncesslightlysoft,mildfreshgoatcheese,atroomtemperature

8ouncescreamcheese(preferablywithoutstabilizers),atroomtemperature

1tablespoonplus1teaspoonfinelygratedlemonzest(from2smalllemons)

2teaspoonskoshersalt

2eggs

1½cupsunbleachedall-purposeflour,plusadditionalforrollingthedough

2tablespoonsextra-virginoliveoil

2smallstalksgreengarlic,thinlyslicedonthediagonal,or3clovesgarlic,finelychopped

¼cupdrywhitewineorvermouth

3cupsfreshlyshelledgreenpeas

3tablespoonsunsaltedbutter

2tablespoonsfreshlysqueezedlemonjuice

1tablespoonfinelychoppedfreshtarragon

Freshlygroundblackpepper

2tablespoonsfreshchives,cutinto½-inchlengths

Inalargebowl,combinethecheeses,zest,salt,andeggs.Mixwitharubberspatulauntilsmoothandadd¾cupoftheflour.Combinewellandgentlymixintheremainingflourtoformamoist,slightlystickydough.Donotovermixoryourgnocchiwillbeheavy.Coverthebowlwithplasticwrapandrefrigeratefor1hour.

Lightlyflourabakingsheetorlargeplatterandsetaside.Turnthedoughontoalightlyflouredworksurface,formitintoaball,andcuttheballintoquarters.Rolleachquarterintoa½-inch-thickrope.Useasharpknifetocuttheropesinto½-inchgnocchiandputthemonthebakingsheet.Repeattheprocesswiththeremainingdoughpieces;youshouldgetabout84.Lightlydustthegnocchiwithflour.Bringalargepotofgenerouslysaltedwatertoaboil.

Boilthegnocchiinbatchesof15to20;theywilltakeabout3minutestocook.They’redonewhentheyfloat—waitafewsecondsbeforeusingaslottedspoontoremovethe

gnocchitoabakingsheettocool.(Theywillbedelicatewhenwarmbutwillbecomesturdierastheycool.)Reserve1cupofthecookingliquid.Thecookedgnocchiwillkeepintherefrigeratorfor24hours.

Inalargeskilletovermediumheat,warmtheoil.Addthegarlicandcook,stirringconstantly,untilsoftened,about4minutes.Addthewineandsimmeruntiltheliquidintheskillethasreducedbyhalf,3to4minutes.

Addthegnocchi,peas,butter,and½cupofthereservedgnocchicookingliquidtotheskillet.Cookuntiltheingredientsarewarmedthroughandthesaucethickensslightly,about3minutes.Addthelemonjuice,tarragon,andsaltandpeppertotasteandtosstocombine.Dividethegnocchibetween6or8bowls.Garnishwiththechivesandserveimmediately.

lentil-chardsoupwithlemon,feta,anddillEarthylentilsaresavoredaroundtheworld,inpartbecausethey’recomplementedbyeverythingfrombaconandsausagetoIndianspicestotartingredientssuchassorrelandlemon.HeretheygetaGreektwist,intheformofaspoonfulofcreamyfetacheesespikedwithlemonanddilladdedtoeachbowlofsoupbeforeserving.Smearitonflatbreadortossitwithpasta—thisversatileandvibrantspreadwillinspireyoutofindnewwaystouseit.Ilikesheep’smilkfeta,whichiscreamierandlesssaltythanothervarieties.

MAKES4TO6SERVINGS

8ouncesleeks,whitepartsand1inchpalegreen

2tablespoonsextra-virginoliveoil

1largeshallot,thinlysliced

2stalkscelery,thinlysliced

2bayleaves

1½cupsFrenchgreenorbrownlentils,sortedandrinsed

6cupsvegetablebrothorwater

1teaspoonkoshersalt

FORTHEFETATOPPING:

6ouncesfetacheese,preferablysheep’smilk

2tablespoonsfreshlysqueezedlemonjuice

1tablespooncoarselychoppedlemonzest

1smallclovegarlic,coarselychopped

¼cupextra-virginoliveoil

¼cuplightlypackedfreshdillsprigs

..........

2tablespoonsfreshlysqueezedlemonjuice

1smallbunchSwisschard,stemsreservedforanotheruseandleavescutinto1-inch-thickribbons

Freshlygroundblackpepper

Dillsprigs,forgarnish

Halvetheleekslengthwise,cutthemcrosswiseinto½-inch-thickslices,andwashthemwellinacolander.InalargestockpotorDutchovenovermedium-highheat,warmtheoil.Addtheleeks,shallot,andcelery,andsautéuntilsoftenedandtranslucent,about7minutes.Addthebayleavesandlentils,stirringtocombineandcoatwithoil.Addthevegetablebrothandsaltandbringtoaboil,overmedium-highheat.Lowertheheatandsimmer,partiallycovered,untilthelentilsarenearlytender,20to30minutes.

Meanwhile,makethetopping.Putthefetacheeseinthebowlofafoodprocessorwiththe

lemonjuice,zest,andgarlic.Pulseseveraltimestobreakupthecheeseandslowlyaddtheoilwiththemotorrunning.Whenthemixtureissmooth,addthedillandpulsetocoarselychopandincorporateit.Tasteforseasoning,addingmorelemonjuiceifthecheeseisparticularlysalty.

Tofinishthesoup,stirinthelemonjuiceandchardribbonsandcontinuetosimmeruntilthelentilsarecompletelytenderandthechardhaswilted,10to15minutes.Seasontotastewithsalt,pepper,andmorelemonjuiceifdesired.Toserve,dividethesoupamongbowls,addaspoonfulofthefetatopping,andtopwithadillsprig.

asparagusandlemonpestopizzawithsmokedmozzarella

Asuper-hotovenisthekeytohomemadepizzawithacrispycrust.Beginpreheatingyourovenwhilemakingthepestotogetitashotasitshouldbe.

Rawasparagusandalemonhalfwithitspeelcombinetocreatethisfresh-tasting,chunkypesto.Lookforfatasparagusspearsforaddedtexturalinterestandtominimizethechanceofoverpureeingthem.Smokedmozzarellaaccentsthe“green”flavorofthepestonicely,butregularfreshmozzarellaisgoodtoo.Thepestoisalsoexcellenttossedwithpastaorrice.

MAKESONE12-TO14-INCHPIZZA

Cornmeal,fordusting

FORTHEPESTO:

½lemon,seededandcutintosmallpieces

2smallclovesgarlic

1poundasparagus,trimmedandcutinto1½-inchpieces,tipshalvedlengthwise

¼cuptoastedpistachios

⅓cupplus1tablespoonextra-virginoliveoil,divided

2ouncesParmigiano-Reggianocheese,coarselygrated(about½cup)

1½teaspoonskoshersalt

½teaspoonfreshlygroundblackpepper

..........

14ounceshomemadeorstore-boughtpizzadough,atroomtemperature

6ouncesfreshsmokedmozzarellacheese,gratedorthinlysliced

Positionarackinthecenteroftheoven,placeapizzastoneonit,andpreheattheovento475degreesF.(Useaninvertedbakingsheetifyoudon’thaveapizzastone.)Dustapeeloraflatbakingsheet(withoutsides)withcornmealandsetaside.

Tomakethepesto,inthebowlofafoodprocessor,finelychopthelemonandgarlic.Addtheasparaguspieces(reservingthetips)andpistachios,pulsinguntilcoarselychopped.Add⅓cupoftheoilallatonceandprocessuntilthemixtureiswellcombinedbutnotpureed;itshouldlookasifyou’vegratedtheasparagus,withpiecesranginginsizefromagrainofricetogratedcheese.Pourthemixtureintoalargebowlandaddthecheese,salt,andpepper.Tasteandaddadditionalseasoningifnecessaryandsetthepestoaside.

Onalightlyflouredsurface,rolloutorstretchthepizzadoughtomakea12-to14-inchroundandtransfertothepreparedpeel.(Youcanalsoformtheroundonasheetofparchmentpaperandtransferitdirectlyontothepizzastonetobake.)Stirthepestowell,evenlyspreadabout1cupoverthedough,andarrangethemozzarellasothatmostofthe

pestoiscovered.Tossthereservedasparagustipswiththeremainingoilandscatteroverthecheese.

Bakefor16to18minutes,untilthecrustisdeepbrownandcrispyandtheasparaguspiecesontoparelightlycharred.(Ifyouusedparchmentpaper,bakefor8to10minutes,pullthepaperoutfromunderthepizzasothatthecrustcancrisp,andbakefor8moreminutes.)Removethepizzafromtheovenandcoolonarackorbakingsheetfor5minutesbeforeslicing.

Themostimportantruleofhomemadepizza?Lessismore.Usealighthandwhenaddingtoppingstoyourcrust,especiallyifthesaucethatsitsdirectlyontopisslightlyjuicy,liketomatosauceorthispesto.Spreadasuper-thinlayeronthedough,addtherestofthetoppings,andfinishwithafewdollopsofthesaucycomponentscatteredacrossthetopforadditionalflavor.

spaghettiwithradicchio,ricotta,andlemon-garlicbreadcrumbs

spaghettiwithradicchio,ricotta,andlemon-garlicbreadcrumbs

Therearemanygoodreasonstomakeandkeepfreshricottaonhand,butthispastaisoneofthebest.Ithitsmostoftheflavorreceptors—bright,bitter,salty—andaddsacreamyandcrunchytexturetoboot.Donotskipthebreadcrumbs.Lemony,garlicky,andslightlysalty,theyelevatethisdishfrompleasurabletomemorable.

MAKES4TO6SERVINGS

¼cupplus2tablespoonsextra-virginoliveoil,divided

4clovesgarlic,finelychopped

2cupsfreshbreadcrumbs

Pinchkoshersalt

1cuplightlypacked,coarselychoppedflat-leafparsleyleaves

2tablespoonsfinelychoppedlemonzest(from2mediumlemons),divided

Freshlygroundblackpepper

2tablespoonsunsaltedbutter

1(1-pound)headradicchio,finelyshredded

2tablespoonsfreshlysqueezedlemonjuice,divided

1poundgood-qualityspaghettiorlinguine

1cupHomemadeRicottaCheeseorstore-bought

Inalargesautépanovermediumheat,warm¼cupoftheoil.Addthegarlicandcook,stirringoccasionally,for2to3minutes,oruntilfragrant.Addthebreadcrumbsandagenerouspinchofsalt,andcontinuetostiruntilthebreadcrumbsaretoastedandbrown.Transferthecrumbstoabowlandsetasidetocoolslightly.Whentheyarecool,addtheparsleyandadd1tablespoonofthezest.Seasontotastewithadditionalsaltandpepper,andsetaside.

Wipeanycrumbsoutofthepan,addthebutter,andmeltitovermediumheat.Whenthebutterisfoamy,addtheradicchioandcookuntilitwiltsandsoftensslightly,2to3minutes.Add2tablespoonsofwaterandsimmerfor2minutes,oruntilthewaterevaporates,thenadd1tablespoonofthelemonjuice.Setaside.

Bringapotofgenerouslysaltedwatertoaboilandcookthelinguineaccordingtothepackagedirections.Whileitcooks,combinethericottawiththeremaining2tablespoonsoil,1tablespoonzest,and1tablespoonlemonjuice.Tasteandaddmorejuiceifnecessary.Beforedrainingthepasta,setaside1cupofthecookingwater.

Returnthepastatothepot.Addsomeofthepastawatertothericottamixture,toloosenitandwarmitup,beforetossingitwiththepasta.Addtheradicchioandhalfofthebreadcrumbs,andtosstocombine,addingmoreofthepastawaterifitappearsdry.Placethe

pastaonalargeplatterandgarnishwiththerestofthebreadcrumbs.Serveimmediately.

lemondalwithspinachandyogurtInIndiancooking,anyandallvarietiesofdal,adishofpureedlegumes,canbeflavoredwithtadka,aperfumedbuttermadebyfryingdifferentcombinations(dictatedbyregion)offragrantspicesandseasonings,onions,ginger,garlic,andchilesinghee,orclarifiedbutter.Thoughit’snottraditional,Iliketoimbuecoconutoilwiththeseflavors.Thelast-minuteadditionoflemonzestandjuiceseemstopunchupeachoftheindividualflavors,creatingawholethatismorecomplexandmemorablethanthesumofitsparts.Servethisdalwithhotbasmatirice.

MAKES6TO8SERVINGS

2cupsyellowsplitpeas(chanadal),sortedandrinsed

1teaspoonturmeric

1smalldriedredchile,or1teaspoonredpepperflakes

¼cupcoconutoilorghee,divided

1tablespoonkoshersalt

2tablespoonsunsaltedbutter

1tablespoonbrownmustardseeds

1tablespooncorianderseeds,crushed

2teaspoonscuminseeds

1mediumonion,cutinto½-inchdice(about1½cups)

1cuplightlypacked,coarselychoppedfreshcilantroleaves,includingsomestems,plusadditionalleavesforgarnish

2cupslightlypackedfreshspinachleaves

¼cupfreshlysqueezedlemonjuice(from1mediumlemon)

2teaspoonsfinelygratedlemonzest

WholemilkGreekyogurt,forgarnish

InalargepotorDutchoven,combinethepeas,6cupsofwater,theturmeric,thechile,2tablespoonsoftheoil,andthesalt.Bringthemixturetoaboil,stirringoccasionallytopreventthedalfromstickingtothebottomofthepot.Lowertheheatandsimmer,partiallycovered,untilthepeasareverysoftandtender,about1hour.

Meanwhile,makethetadka.Inalargesautépanovermediumheat,warmtheremaining2tablespoonsoilandthebutter.Whenthebutterisfoamy,addthemustard,coriander,andcuminseeds,stirringconstantlyuntiltheyarefragrant,about2minutes.Addtheonion,increasetheheattohigh,andcontinuetocookuntiltheoniongoesfromtranslucenttobrownaroundtheedges.Thisshouldtakeabout15minutes;don’tbeafraidtogettheonionsdark.Addthecilantroandspinach,andcontinuetocookforabout5moreminutes,untilbothhavewiltedslightlybutretaintheirbrightcolor.

Removethewholechileandstirthetadkaintothepeas.Seasontotastewithadditional

saltandcookovermedium-lowheatfor10to15minutestoallowtheflavorstocombine.Addthelemonjuiceandzestandcookforanother5minutesbeforeserving.Garnisheachportionwithaspoonfulofyogurtandafewcilantroleaves.

seafood,meat,andpoultry

Pan-SearedHalibutwithLemonRelish

GrilledLambChopswithLemon,Sumac,andZa’atar

MeyerLemonRisottowithDungenessCrab,Tarragon,andCrèmeFraîche

CedarPlank–GrilledSalmonwithLemons

GrilledFlankSteakwithCharredLemonChimichurri

BraisedBeefwithPreservedLemonsandHarissa

ToastedBreadandChickenSaladwithRoastedLemon-ShallotVinaigrette

LemonParmesanChickenSoupwithHerbedDumpling

pan-searedhalibutwithlemonrelish

pan-searedhalibutwithlemonrelishThepulpandzestofathin-skinned,medium-sizelemonisthebaseofthispiquant,chunkyrelish.Saltyolivesandcapersbalancetheacidity,alongwithplentyoffreshparsley.Tryitwithotherwhite-fleshedfish,grilledshrimp,orsalmon,orwithfreshsardinesandanchovies.Notethattherelishneedstomarinateforfourhoursoruptoovernight,somakeitthedaybeforeyouplantocookthefish.

MAKES4SERVINGS

FORTHERELISH:

1lemon,quartered(about¾cup)

2smallshallots,thinlyslicedintorings(about¼cup)

1teaspoonkoshersalt

1cuppitted,coarselychoppedgreenolives,suchasCastelvetrano

2tablespoonscapers,rinsedandpatteddry

½teaspoonredpepperflakes

¼cupextra-virginoliveoil

..........

1½poundsskinlesshalibutfillet,cutinto4pieces

½teaspoonfennelseed,freshlyground

½teaspoonkoshersalt

½teaspoonfreshlygroundblackpepper

2tablespoonsextra-virginoliveoil

2tablespoonsunsaltedbutter

¾cupcoarselychoppedflat-leafparsley

Tomaketherelish,removethepithyendsofthelemonquarters,andthinlyslicetherest,discardinganyseeds.Addthelemonslicestoabowlalongwiththeshallotsandsalt.Coverandsetasidefor45minutesoruntilthelemonsreleasesomeoftheirjuice.Addtheolives,capers,pepperflakes,and¼cupoftheoil.Inorderfortheflavorstodevelopfully,settherelishasidetomarinate4hoursoruptoovernight.

Patthehalibutdrywithapapertowel.Inasmallbowl,combinethefennelseed,salt,andpepperandsprinkleitalloverthehalibut.Inanonstickskilletorcast-ironpanovermedium-highheat,heattheoiluntilitshimmers.Addthehalibutandcook,undisturbed,untilbrownedonthebottom,about5minutes.Flip,addthebuttertothepan,andreducethetemperaturetomedium.Continuetocook,bastingthehalibutwiththebutter,for2minutes,oruntilthefishisopaqueinthecenter.

Stirtheparsleyintotherelish,spoontherelishovereachpieceoffish,andserveimmediately.

grilledlambchopswithlemon,sumac,andza’atarAftermarinatinginplainyogurtgussiedupwithlemon,garlic,andmint,theselambchopsarecoatedwithza’atarandsumac,MiddleEasternspices.Specifically,sumacisapleasantlyastringent,slightlyfruityberrythatisdriedandground.Together,theycreateanappealing,crispycrustonthechopswhentheymeettheheatofthegrill,perfectlycomplementingthelemonymarinade.Youcanpurchasebothza’atarandsumaconlineandatwell-stockedgroceriesorMiddleEasternmarkets.Notethatthechopsneedtomarinateovernight,soplanahead.

MAKES4SERVINGS

1(3to3½pound)rackoflamb,ribbonesfrenched,or3poundslambloinchops,1to1½inchesthick

Koshersaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper

FORTHEMARINADE:

¾cupplainwholemilkyogurt

3tablespoonsextra-virginoliveoil

3tablespoonsfreshlysqueezedlemonjuice

1tablespoonfinelychoppedlemonzest

2clovesgarlic,finelyminced

2tablespoonscoarselychoppedfreshmint

..........

3tablespoonsextra-virginoliveoil

2clovesgarlic,finelyminced

3tablespoonsza’atar

4teaspoonssumac

3lemons,forgarnish

Mintleaves,forgarnish

Pattherackorchopsdrywithapapertowel,seasonthemwithsaltandpepper,andlaytheminashallownonreactivepansuchasarectangularglassbakingdish.

Inasmallbowl,whisktogethertheyogurt,oil,lemonjuiceandzest,garlic,andmint.Pourthemarinadeoverthechops,turningthemoncetocoatbothsides.Coverthepanwithplasticwrapandrefrigerateovernight.

Removethelambfromtherefrigerator30to45minutespriortogrillingtoallowthemeattocometoroomtemperature.Preheatagasorcharcoalgrillformedium-highheat,about350degreesF.Removethelambfromthemarinade,wipethemarinadeoffcompletelywithapapertowel,anddiscardit.Combinetheoil,garlic,za’atar,andsumac,anduseyourfingerstorubthemixturealloverthelamb.

Scrapethegratecleanandlightlyoilit.Forarackoflamb,turnoneoftheburnersoff,orbankthecoalstoonesideofthegrill.Laytherackonthegrateoverdirectheatandcookthelambuntilbrownedallover,about10minutes.Movethelambtoacoolerpartofthegrill,coverandcook,turningoccasionally,untilaninstant-readthermometerinsertedinthecenterregisters130degreesF,about15minutes.Letthelambrestatleast10minutesbeforecuttingintoindividualchops.

Forloinchops,laythechopsonthegrateandgrillfor3minutes,thenturneachchop90degrees,andcookforanother3minutes,oruntilthechopsarenicelycharred.Flipthechopsandcookthemontheothersideforabout6moreminutes,turninghalfwaythrough.Theyshouldstillbepinkinside.Transferthechopstoawarmplatetorestfor5minutesbeforeserving.

Whilethelambrests,cutthelemonsinhalf,lightlybrushthemwithoilandgrill,cutsidedown,untilnicelycharred,about3minutes.Arrangethelambchopsonaplatterwiththegrilledlemonsandmintleaves.

meyerlemonrisottowithdungenesscrab,tarragon,andcrèmefraîche

ThisseafoodrisottoismyfavoritewaytocelebrateouroverlappingDungenesscrabandMeyerlemonseasonsontheWestCoast.OntheEastCoast,bluecrabsorstonecrabswouldworknicely,asdoeskingcrabmeatorwhateverfresh,localoptionyoucanfind.Iincorporateawholelemon,whichaccentsthecreamyriceandsweetcrabmeat.IfMeyerlemonsareunavailable,usethefinelychoppedzestofaregularlemonandasqueezeofjuiceinstead.

MAKES6SERVINGS

5to6cupslightlyflavoredvegetablebroth

1Meyerlemon,peelremovedwithavegetablepeeler(reserveboththefruitandthepeel)

2tablespoonsunsaltedbutter

2tablespoonsextra-virginoliveoil

1smallonion,cutinto½-inchdice(about1cup)

1stalkgreengarlic,bulbandtendergreenpartsfinelychopped,or1largeclovegarlic,finelyminced

1½cupsarboriorice

½cupdrywhitewineorvermouth

8ouncesfreshcrabmeat

1ounceParmigiano-Reggianocheese,finelygrated(about½cup)

1tablespooncoarselychoppedfreshtarragon,plusadditionalforgarnish

¼cupcrèmefraîche

¼cupfinelymincedfreshchives

Inalargesaucepanovermediumheat,bringthebrothtoasimmer.Addthelemonpeelandremovethepanfromtheheat.Coverandsetaside.

Inaheavy-bottomedpanovermedium-lowheat,meltthebutter.Whenthebutterisfoamy,addtheoilandonionandcook,stirringoccasionally,untiltheonionissoftandtranslucent,about5minutes.Increasetheheattomedium-high,addthegarlicandrice,andstiruntilthericesmellsslightlytoasty,about4minutes.Addthewineandsimmer,stirringoccasionally,untilitisreducedtoaglaze,about5minutes.Add1cupofthewarmbroth,stirtocoverthegrains,andsimmer,stirringfrequently,untilthebrothisalmostentirelyabsorbedbeforeaddingmore.Repeatwhilecontinuingtostiruntilonlyabout½cupofthebrothremains,orthericeiscreamyandcookedthrough,about45minutes.Reservethebroth.

Removethepeelfromthebrothandfinelyminceit.Sectionthelemonandfinelychopthepulp,removinganyseeds.Stirthepeelandpulpintothericeandcookuntiltheyarewarmedthrough,about3minutes.Stirinthecrabmeat,cheese,andtarragon,addinga

littlebitofbrothifnecessarytoloosentherisotto.Whenthecheeseismeltedandthecrabiswelldistributedandwarm,afterabout3minutes,stirinthecrèmefraîche.Serveimmediately,garnishedwiththechivesandtarragonleaves.

cedarplank–grilledsalmonwithlemonsIlearnedthistechniqueforplankedsalmonfromchefandrestaurateurVitalyPaley,whenIworkedonThePaley’sPlaceCookbook.Recipesforcookingonwoodplanksoftencallforsoakingtheboardfirst,topreventitfromigniting.Withthismethod,youwanttheplanktocatchfireimmediately.Atangleofthinlyslicedspringvegetables,lemons,anddillflavorsthesalmonbeneathitandprotectsthefishfromburning.Theresultisawonderfullysmoky,moistpieceoffishunderablanketofslightlycrunchy,lightlycharredvegetables.Notethatamandolinworksbestforslicingthevegetablesandlemon,butifyoudon’thaveone,justslicethemasthinlyaspossible.

MAKES4TO6SERVINGS

¼cuplightbrownsugar

3tablespoonskoshersalt

½choppedfreshdill,divided

1tablespoonfinelygratedlemonzest

1(2-pound)salmonfillet,or6(5½-ounce)centercutfillets,skinon

1(6-by-15-inch)cedarplank,orwhateversizeaccommodatesthelengthandwidthofyourfish

5tablespoonsextra-virginoliveoil,divided,plusadditionalforbrushingtheplank

2lemons,thinlysliced

1smallspringorsweetonion,thinlysliced

1smallfennelbulb,thinlysliced

¼cuplightlypackedfennelfronds,coarselychopped

Inasmallbowl,combinethesugar,salt,¼cupofthedill,andthezest.Patthesalmondrywithapapertowelandarrangeitinashallowglassbakingdishandcoatalloverwiththerub.Coverandrefrigeratefor2hours.

Preheatagasgrillforhighheat,about450degreesF,orprepareacharcoalgrillfordirect-heatcookingoverred-hotcoals.Brushtheplankgenerouslywithoilonbothsides.Layabouttwo-thirdsoftheslicedlemonsontheplankinasinglelayer.

Halvetheremainingslicedlemonsandaddthemtoamediumbowlwiththeonionandfennel.Add2tablespoonsoftheoilanduseyourhandstotosstheingredientsandcoatthem.Addtheremaining¼cupdill,thefennelfronds,andasmallpinchofsalt.

Arrangethesalmonontheplankoverthelemons.Moundthevegetablemixtureonthetopandaroundthesidesofthefish,coveringtheflesh.Drizzletheremaining3tablespoonsoilontop.Placetheplankonthegrill;itshouldbehotenoughtocausetheplanktoignite.Lettheplankburnaroundthefish(thelemonsandvegetableswillpreventthesalmonfromburning)andclosethelid.Continuetocookuntilthethickestpartofthefilletregisters130to135degreesFonaninstant-readthermometer,about15minutesdependingonthethickness.

grilledflanksteakwithcharredlemonchimichurri

grilledflanksteakwithcharredlemonchimichurriChimichurriisArgentina’snationalsteaksauce.Astapleinthecountry’sparrillas(steakhouses),thesilkygreensaucecanbeassimpleasoliveoilflavoredwithdriedoregano,redpepperflakes,andsalt,oramoreelaboratecombinationofherbs,spices,andgarlic.Myversionincludesfinelychoppedslicesofgrilledlemonforapleasanthitofacidityandtexture.Thetangysauceisagoodaccompanimenttothickersteaks,chicken,andfish,aslongastheyaregrilled.Withoutthesmokychar,whateversitsunderneaththeboldlyflavoredcondimentisovershadowed.Notethatthechimichurrineedstositforatleasttwohoursanduptoovernightfortheflavorstodevelop.

MAKES4SERVINGS

FORTHECHIMICHURRI:

1smalllemon

1smalljalapeño

½cupextra-virginoliveoil,plusadditionalfortossingingredientsandoilingthegrill

1½teaspoonskoshersalt,divided

1cuplightlypackedflat-leafparsleyleaves

1cuplightlypackedfreshcilantroleaves

3tablespoonsfreshoreganoleaves

2clovesgarlic,coarselychopped

1tablespooncoarselychoppedshallot

1tablespoonwhitewinevinegar

..........

1flankskirtorflatironsteak(about1½pounds)

Koshersaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper

Tomakethechimichurri,trimtheblossomandstemendsofthelemon,removingenoughrindthatthepulpshows.Cutthelemoninto¼-inch-thickslicesandputtheminasmallbowlwiththejalapeño.Tosswithalittlebitofoiland¼teaspoonofthesalt,andgrillorbroiluntillightlycharred.Putthelemonslicesandjalapeñobackinthebowlandcoverwithaplateorplasticwrap.Thesteamwillcausethemtocollapseslightly,makingtheskinofthejalapeñoeasytoremove.

Peelandseedthejalapeño(leavesomeseedsandthemembraneifyouwantaspicykick).Removeanyseedsfromthelemonslices.Putbothingredientsinthebowlofafoodprocessorandpulseseveraltimestocoarselychop.

Addtheremaining1¼teaspoonssalt,theparsley,cilantro,oregano,garlic,shallot,andvinegar.Pulsetheingredientsinshortbursts,tochopandcombinethemwithoutcreatingtoofineapuree.Withthemotorrunning,drizzleintheoil.Removethesaucetoamedium

bowlandletitsitforatleast2hoursoruptoovernight.Tasteforsaltbeforeserving,addingmoreifnecessary.

Patthesteakdrywithapapertowelandseasonitgenerouslywithsaltandpepper.Preheatagasgrillforhighheat,about450degreesF,orprepareacharcoalgrillfordirect-heatcookingoverred-hotcoals.Scrapethegratecleanandlightlyoilit.Whenthegrillishot,laythesteakonthegrate.Forraretomediumrare,cookfor3minutesononeside,flipthesteak,andcookforanadditional3minutesontheotherside(thismayvary,dependingonthesizeandthicknessofthesteak).Removethesteakfromthegrillandletitrestforatleast5minutesbeforethinlyslicingitagainstthegrain.

Toserve,laytheslicesonaplatter,drizzlethemwithanyjuicesleftoverfromslicing,andspoonsomechimichurrioverthetop.Serveimmediatelyandpasstheremainingchimichurri.

braisedbeefwithpreservedlemonsandharissaPreservedlemonsareanindispensableingredientintheMoroccankitchen.Theyfindtheirwayintofragranttaginesmadewithlamb,chicken,andbeef,aswellasfishandevensalads.WhenIhavetime,Iliketomakethisbraiselikeapotroast,usingacutofbeefontheboneforextraflavor.Abonelesscutorstewmeatworksbeautifullytooandcooksabitmorequickly.Ifyouplanahead,thistastesbettereverydayitsits,theharissa,aNorthAfricanchilepaste,mellowingasitblendswiththeotherflavors.ServeitwithToastedCauliflower“Couscous”withLemon,Parsley,andAlmonds.Youcanfindharissaatmostwell-stockedgroceriesornaturalmarkets.

MAKES4TO6SERVINGS

1(3-pound)bone-inchuckroast,or2poundsstewmeat

Koshersaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper

3tablespoonsextra-virginoliveoil

Imediumonion,cutintolargedice

1PreservedLemonorstore-bought,rinsedandfinelychopped(peelonly)

3clovesgarlic,finelychopped

1½teaspoonsrasalhanout(seenote)

1teaspooncuminseeds,coarselyground

1teaspooncorianderseeds,coarselyground

1to3tablespoonsharissa,dependingonyourpreferredheatlevel

3cupsbeefstockorvegetablebroth

2sprigsfreshthyme

1bayleaf

1cuplightlypacked,coarselychoppedflat-leafparsleyleaves

½cuplightlypacked,coarselychoppedcilantroleaves

Preheattheovento325degreesF.

Patthemeatdrywithapapertowelandseasonwellwithsaltandpepper.InaDutchovenorheavy,ovenproofpanwithalid,warmtheoilovermedium-highheat.Addthemeatandsearitfor3to4minutesoneachsideforachuckroast,orbrownthemeatonallsidesforstewmeat.Becarefulnottocrowdthepan,browningin2batchesifnecessary.

Removethebrownedbeeffromthepantoalargebowl.Addtheoniontothepanandcook,stirringfrequentlytoscrapeupthebrownbitsonthebottom.After3or4minutes,orwhentheonionhassoftenedslightly,addthelemon,garlic,rasalhanout,cumin,coriander,andharissa.Continuetocookforafewminutes,untiltheingredientsarearomatic.

Putthemeatbackinthepan,alongwithanyjuicesinthebowl.Addthestock,thyme,and

bayleaf,andbringthemixturetoaboil.Carefullyremovethepanfromtheheat,coveritwiththelid,andputitintheoven.

Cookthebeeffor2hours(forstewmeat)or3to3½hoursforalarger,bone-incut.Checkthelevelofthestockoccasionally,addingalittlebitofwaterifthelevelisloworthepanormeatseemsdry.Themeatisreadywhenitismeltinglytenderandhasfallenoffthebone.Toserve,seasontotastewithadditionalsaltandpepper,andaddtheparsleyandcilantro.

NOTE:RasalhanoutisaNorthAfricanspiceblend.Finditonlineandatwell-stockedgroceriesorMiddleEasternmarkets.Tomakeyourown,lightlytoastandgrind1½teaspoonscorianderseeds,¾teaspooncuminseeds,and½teaspoonredpepperflakes.Add1¼teaspoonsgroundcinnamon,1teaspoonsweetpaprika,and½teaspooneachofgroundcardamom,groundginger,andturmeric.

toastedbreadandchickensaladwithroastedlemon-shallotvinaigrette

toastedbreadandchickensaladwithroastedlemon-shallotvinaigrette

Ifthisrecipeseemsfamiliar,perhapsyoutooareafanofthelegendarybrick-ovenroastedchickenwithbreadsaladservedatSanFrancisco’sZuniCafé.Thatsimpleyetindescribablysatisfyingdishinspiredthissalad,rightdowntothecurrants,whichroundoutthesalad’sflavorswiththeirsweetness.Duringthesummer,trytinysweetcherrytomatoes,orroastedgrapesinthefall.

Iliketomakeadoublebatchofthisvinaigrettesothere’splentyleftovertoenjoyonsaladgreens,potatoes,grilledfish,andslicedtomatoes.

MAKES4TO6SERVINGS

FORTHEVINAIGRETTE:

1lemon,halved

8ouncesshallots,peeled,halvediflarge

3largeclovesgarlic,unpeeled

¾cupextra-virginoliveoil,divided

4sprigsfreshthyme,divided

2½teaspoonskoshersalt,divided

Juiceof1lemon

..........

12ouncespeasant-style,rusticbread,roughlytorninto1-inchpieces(about5cups)

3tablespoonsextra-virginoliveoil

Freshlygroundblackpepper

4cupsleftoverroastchicken,shreddedorcutintobite-sizepieces

3tablespoonscurrants,plumpedinwarmwaterfor10minutesanddrained

4cupslightlypackedpepperygreens,suchasarugula,watercress,orsmallredmustardgreens

Preheattheovento400degreesF.

Tomakethevinaigrette,inamediumbowl,combinethelemonhalveswiththeshallotsandgarlic.Tossthemwellwith¼cupoftheoil,2sprigsofthethyme,and1teaspoonofthesaltandtransferthemtoabakingdish.Turnthelemonscutsidedownanddistributetheingredientsinasinglelayer.Coverthepanwithaluminumfoilandroast,stirringoccasionally,untiltheshallotsaresoftandcaramelized,45to55minutes.Removethepanfromtheovenandsetasidetocool.

Increasetheoventemperatureto425degreesF.Tossthebreadwiththeoilandseasontotastewithsaltandpepper.Arrangethebreadonabakingsheetinasinglelayerandtoastfor10to12minutes,oruntillightlygoldenbrownandstillslightlychewy.Leavetheoven

onaftertoastingthebread.

Meanwhile,seedandcoarselychopthepulpfromtheroastedlemonhalves,discardingthepeel.Trimtherootendsfromtheshallots,andpeelthegarlic.Addthemalltoablender,alongwiththeremaining1½teaspoonssalt,thelemonjuice,andanyjuicesleftinthebakingdish.Blenduntilsmoothand,withtheblenderrunning,slowlydrizzleintheremaining½cupoiluntilthemixtureisemulsified.Coarselychopthethymeleavesfromtheremainingsprigsandaddthemtotheblender.Pulseagaintocombine,andseasontotastewithpepper.

Inalargebowl,tossthechickenwithenoughvinaigrettetomoistenit.Addthetoastedbreadandmorevinaigrette,untileverythingislightlycoated.Spreadthecontentsofthebowlinasinglelayeronabakingsheetandplaceintheovenbrieflytowarmthrough,about4minutes.

Removethepanfromtheoven,andturnthebreadandchickenintoaservingbowlorplatter,alongwiththecurrantsandgreens.Tosswelltocombine,addingmorevinaigrettetotaste.

lemonparmesanchickensoupwithherbeddumplingsAddinghardcheeserindstostockisanItaliantrickformakingrichandunbelievablydeliciousbasesforsoupandrisotto.Coupledwithlemon,chicken,andpillowydumplingsfullofherbs,lemonzest,andmorecheese,thesoupistransformedintoasatisfyingmeal.MakeitinawidepotorDutchoventhatcanaccommodateabigbatchofdumplings;almosteveryonewillaskforseconds.

MAKES8SERVINGS

1(4to4½pound)pasturedchicken

5carrots,divided

2largeleeks(about1pound),wellrinsed

2clovesgarlic,smashed

2stalkscelery,cutinto2-inchpieces

1smallonion,peeledandhalved

4sprigsfreshthyme

2bayleaves

2teaspoonsblackpeppercorns

Koshersaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper

1tablespoonunsaltedbutter

1tablespoonextra-virginoliveoil

4longstripslemonzest,removedwithavegetablepeeler

1mediumParmigiano-Reggianocheeserind(about6ounces)

FORTHEDUMPLINGS:

2cupsunbleachedall-purposeflour

2teaspoonsbakingpowder

2teaspoonskoshersalt

1teaspoonfreshlygroundblackpepper

2teaspoonsfinelychoppedlemonzest

¼cupcoarselychoppedsoftfreshherbs,suchastarragon,chives,andparsley

½ounceParmigiano-Reggianocheese,finelygrated(about¼cup)

1cupwholemilk

2eggs,lightlybeaten

¼cup(½stick)unsaltedbutter,meltedandcooledslightly

Putthechickeninalargestockpotwith2ofthecarrots,cutintolargechunks;thegreenpartsoftheleeks,cutinto1-inchpieces;andthegarlic,celery,onion,thyme,bayleaves,

andpeppercorns.Addenoughcoldwatertocoverthechicken.Bringtoaboilovermedium-highheat,reducetheheattoasimmer,andcookgentlyfor45minutesto1hour,untilthechickenistender.

Transferthechickentoabowltocool.Whenthechickeniscoolenoughtohandle,gentlypullitapartandremovetheskinandbonesfromhalfofthebird,e.g.athigh,alegandwing,andhalfofthebreastmeat.Discardtheskin,addthebonesbacktothestockpot,andreservethechickenforthesoup.Refrigeratetherestofthechickeninanairtightcontainerforanotheruse,suchasToastedBreadandChickenSaladwithRoastedLemon-ShallotVinaigrette.Continuetosimmerthestockuntilitisreducedbyone-third,about1hour.Strainitthroughafine-meshsieveintoalargebowl,discardingthesolids.Youshouldhave8to10cupsofstock.Seasonitwithsaltandpeppertotaste.

InawidepotorDutchovenovermedium-highheat,warmthebutterandoil.Addthewhitesoftheleeks,halvedandcutinto½-inchpieces,andtheremainingcarrots,cutinto¼-inch-thickcoins.Sautéforseveralminutesbeforeaddingthezest,rinds,andstock.Reducetheheatandgentlysimmerthesoupwhileyoumakethedumplings.

Tomakethedumplings,inamediumbowl,whisktogethertheflour,bakingpowder,salt,pepper,zest,herbs,andcheese.Makeawellinthecenter,andaddthemilkandeggs,whiskingthemtogetherandincorporatingtheflourasyougo.Switchtoawoodenspoonandslowlystirinthebutteruntiltheingredientsarewellincorporated.Atthispoint,thedoughshouldbelooseenoughtostireasily,butnotmushy.Scrapethesidesofthebowlwithaspatulawhilemixing,toincorporateallofthedryingredients.Resisttheurgetoovermix,eventhoughthedoughlookslikeawetshaggymass.

Using2teaspoons,formthedoughintodumplings,loweringthemdirectlyintothesimmeringsoupallatonce.Coverthepotandsimmerthedumplingsfor5minutesbeforecheckingtoseeifthey’vefloatedtothetop.Ifso,turnthemover,addthereservedchicken,andcontinuetosimmeruntilthedumplingsarecookedthroughandthechickeniswarmedthrough,about10minutes.Serveimmediatelyandcontinuetoenjoyleftoversforthenext2to3days.

sweets

MiniLemonMeringueWhoopiePieswithLemonCurdFilling

BestLemonBars

LemonandPoppySeedParfaitwithStrawberries

Chocolate-FilledLemonAlmondMacarons

LemonCrinkleCookies

LemonButtermilkPannaCottawithLemonVerbenaandBlackberries

AffogatowithLimoncelloIceCream

LemonCrèmeBruléewithLavenderandHoney

ToastedCoconut–LemonTart

MeyerLemonandtangerineOliveOilCake

minilemonmeringuewhoopiepieswithlemoncurdfilling

minilemonmeringuewhoopiepieswithlemoncurdfilling

Inspiredbylemonmeringuepie,Iaddedbrownsugartothesemeringuestoapproximatethepie’stoastyflavor.AhalfrecipeofLemonCurdwillleaveyouwiththreeeggwhites,justtherightamountforabatchofthesemeringues.

Afterassemblingthem,Irecommendlettingthecookiessitforseveralhoursatroomtemperatureor—betteryet—overnightafterassemblingthem;thetextureapproximatessomethingbetweenthepiethatinspiresthemandthespongy,cakeliketextureofatraditionalwhoopiepie.Anditonlygetsbetter,ifyoucanmakethemlast.

MAKESABOUT2DOZENWHOOPIEPIES

½cupgranulatedsugar

¼cuplightbrownsugar

3eggwhites,atroomtemperature

¼teaspooncreamoftartar

Pinchkoshersalt

½teaspoonvanillaextract

⅔cup(½recipe)LemonCurd

Preheattheovento200degreesF.Line2bakingsheetswithparchmentpaper.

Putthegranulatedandbrownsugarsinthebowlofafoodprocessor.Pulseinshortburstsuntiltheyarewellincorporatedandfinelyground.Setaside.

Puttheeggwhitesintheclean,drybowlofastandmixerfittedwiththewhiskattachment,oraclean,drybowlthatcanbeusedwithanelectrichandheldmixer.(Ifthere’sevenaspeckofeggyolk,oil,orwaterinthebowlorthewhites,theywon’tstiffen.)Beginmixingonmedium-lowspeed.Whenthewhitesarefrothy,addthecreamoftartarandsaltandcontinuebeatingforabout2minutes,oruntilthewhitesarethickandfoamy.Increasethespeedtomedium-highandaddthesugarmixtureslowly,about1tablespoonatatime.Whenallthesugarisincorporated,increasethespeedtohigh,whippinguntilstiff,shinypeaksform,about10minutes.Addthevanillaandbeatuntiljustblended,about5seconds.

Spoonthemeringueintoapastrybagfittedwithaplain½-inchtiporaziplockbagwithonecornersnippedoff.Holdthebagperpendiculartothebakingsheetsandpipesmallflatdisks,about1¼inchesindiameterand¼inchhigh.Bakeuntilthemeringuesaredryandcrisp,about1½hours.Turnofftheovenandleavethemtheretocoolcompletely.

Toassemblethecookies,arrangehalfofthemeringuesflatsideuponabakingsheet.Putthechilledcurdinacleanpastrybagfittedwithaplain½-inchtiporanotherziplockbagwithonecornersnippedoff.Pipeabout2teaspoonsontoeachmeringue.Gentlypresstheremainingmeringuesflatsidedownontothecurd.Astheysit,themeringueswillbecome

softerandchewier.

bestlemonbarsLemonloverslovelemonbars,andtherearelotsofrecipestoproveit.Forme,thebestlemonbarhasatopping-to-crustratioof2:1,withafatlayerofcurdliketoppingthathoversbetweentartandsweet.Ifthat’syourdefinitionofaperfectlemonbartoo,looknofurther.Reducethetimebetweencoolingandconsumptionbyputtingthepaninthefreezerforthirtyminutesafterbaking.Thesebarscutbeautifullyinasemifrozenstate.

MAKES2DOZEN(1½-BY-3-INCH)BARS

FORTHECRUST:

2½cupsunbleachedall-purposeflour

¾teaspoonkoshersalt

1cup(2sticks)unsaltedbutter,atroomtemperature

¾cupsugar

2teaspoonsfinelychoppedlemonzest

1teaspoonvanillaextract

FORTHETOPPING:

6eggs,lightlybeaten

2cupssugar

¼cupplus1tablespoonunbleachedall-purposeflour

1cupfreshlysqueezedlemonjuice(from4mediumlemons)

1tablespoonplus2teaspoonsfinelychoppedlemonzest(from2smalllemons)

½cupwholemilk

½teaspoonkoshersalt

..........

Confectioners’sugar,forserving

Preheattheovento350degreesF.Linea9-by-13-inchbakingpanwithfoilandlightlycoatthefoilwithcookingsprayormeltedbutter.

Tomakethecrust,inasmallbowl,stirtogethertheflourandsalt.Usingastandmixerfittedwiththepaddleattachmentorahandheldelectricmixer,beatthebutterandsugaronmediumspeeduntilitislightincolorandfluffy,about3minutes.Addthezestandvanillaandmixtoincorporate.Reducetolowspeedandaddtheflourmixture,usingaspatulatoscrapethebottomandsidesofthebowlseveraltimes.Stopmixingwhentheingredientsarefullyincorporatedbutstillcrumbly.Donotovermixorthecrustwillbedifficulttodistributeinthepan.

Pourthecrumblydoughintothepreparedpananduseyourfingerstodistributeitevenlyoverthebottom,lightlypressingitdownandmakingsuretobringthedoughupthesidesofthepanslightly,tocontainthetopping.Bakeuntiltoastybrown,about25minutes.

Meanwhile,makethetopping.Inalargebowl,whisktheeggswiththesugarandflour.Stirinthelemonjuiceandzest,milk,andsalt.

Whenthecrustisdone,reducetheoventemperatureto325degreesF.Stirthetoppingingredientstogetheragainbeforepouringthetoppingoverthewarmcrust.Placethepaninthemiddleoftheovenandbakeuntilthetoppingfeelsfirmwhenlightlytouched,about20minutes.Coolthepanonawirerackforatleast30minutesortoroomtemperaturebeforecuttingthebars.Dustgenerouslywithconfectioners’sugarbeforeserving.

lemonandpoppyseedparfaitwithstrawberries

lemonandpoppyseedparfaitwithstrawberriesThisparfaitisaplayontheclassicBritishdessert,Etonmess.Ifoldpoppyseed–speckledmeringuesintowhippedcreamstreakedwithribbonsoflemoncurd,thenfreezethewhole“mess.”Thesticky,chewymagicthathappenswhenmeringueandcreamarefrozenisfurtherimprovedwithstrawberriesandfreshmint.Notethatyouneedtomakethecurdbeforethemeringues,soithastimetocool.

MAKES6TO8SERVINGS

FORTHEMERINGUES:

¾cupsuperfinesugar

3eggwhites,atroomtemperature

Pinchkoshersalt

1tablespoonpoppyseeds

..........

2cupsheavycream

⅔cup(½recipe)LemonCurd

2pintsfreshstrawberries,hulledandhalvedorquartered

3tablespoonssugar

2tablespoonsfreshlysqueezedlemonjuice

3to4freshmintleaves

Preheattheovento200degreesF.Putthesugarinapietinorsmallpanwithsidesandwarmintheovenfor10minutes.Lineabakingsheetwithparchmentpaperandsetaside.

Tomakethemeringues,placetheeggwhitesintheclean,drybowlofastandmixerfittedwiththewhiskattachment,oraclean,drybowlthatcanbeusedwithanelectrichandheldmixer.(Ifthere’sevenaspeckofeggyolk,oil,orwaterinthebowlorthewhites,theywon’tstiffen.)Beginmixingonmedium-lowspeed,addingapinchofsaltwhenthewhitesarefrothy.Continuebeatingforabout2minutes,oruntilthewhitesarethickandfoamy.Increasethespeedtomedium-highandbeginaddingthewarmsugarslowly,1tablespoonatatime.Whenallthesugarisincorporated,increasethespeedtohigh,whippinguntilstiff,shinypeaksform,about10minutes.Withaspatula,gentlyfoldinthepoppyseeds.

Dollopthemeringueontothepreparedbakingsheet,making6moundsandusingthebackofaspoontoflattenthetopsslightly.Bakethemeringuesuntildryandcrisp,about1½hours.Washanddrythemixerbowlandwhiskandplacethemintherefrigerator.

Linea9-by-5-by-3-inchloafpanwithplasticwrap,leavingenoughoverhangonallsidestocoverthetopoftheparfaitandmakeliftingitoutofthepaneasier.Setaside.

Toassembletheparfait,addthecreamtothechilledmixerbowl,oruseawhiskwitha

chilled,nonreactivebowl.Whipthecreamonmediumspeed,orbyhand,untilsoftpeaksform.Usingaspatula,foldinthelemoncurdwithoutcombiningitcompletely,justuntilthemixtureisstreaky.Breakthemeringuesintochunksranginginsizefromlargecrumbstowalnuthalves.Foldthemintothecream,stirringgentlytodistribute.Spoonthemixtureintothepreparedpan,coverthetopwithplasticwrap,andfreezeforatleast4hoursbeforeserving.

Meanwhile,inamediumbowl,tossthestrawberrieswiththesugarandlemonjuiceandallowthemtositfor30minutes,oruntilasyrupforms.Cutthemintleaveslengthwiseintothinstripsandtosswiththeberries;thereshouldbeonlyasuggestionofmint,sokeeptheamountminimal.

Toserve,usetheoverhangingplasticwraptolifttheparfaitoutofthepan.Cuttheparfaitinto1to1½-inchslicesandspoontheberriesoverthetop.

VARIATION:Substitute2teaspoonsrosewaterforthepoppyseeds,andraspberriesforthestrawberries.Garnisheachplatewithafewrosepetals.

chocolate-filledlemonalmondmacaronsIftheworldweredividedintolemonpeopleandchocolatepeople,I’djointhelemonteam.Ifyou’reonthefenceordon’twanttochoose,thisisthecookieforyou.Lemonandchocolateseemlikeanunlikelycombinationuntilyoutrythemtogether.YoucanalsosandwichLemonCurdbetweenthesemacaronsorwhitechocolateganacheflavoredwithatouchoforangeflowerwater.

MAKES2DOZENMACARONS

1½cupsconfectioners’sugar

1⅓cupsalmondflour

1tablespoonfinelygratedlemonzest

4eggwhites,atroomtemperature

Pinchofcreamoftartar

¼cupgranulatedsugar

FORTHEFILLING:

½cupplus2tablespoonsheavycream

2teaspoonscoarselychoppedlemonzest

Pinchkoshersalt

6ouncesbittersweetchocolate,finelychopped(about1cup)

1tablespoonunsaltedbutter

2tablespoonsfreshlysqueezedlemonjuice

Line2bakingsheetswithparchmentpaper.Inamediumbowl,combinetheconfectioners’sugar,flour,andzest,andsetaside.

Intheclean,drybowlofastandmixerfittedwiththewhiskattachment,oraclean,drybowlthatcanbeusedwithahandheldelectricmixer,beattheeggwhitesonmediumspeeduntilfrothy.Addthecreamoftartarandcontinuetobeatuntilthewhitesholdsoftpeaks.Increasethespeedtomediumhigh,slowlyaddthegranulatedsugar,andbeatuntilthewhitesholdfirm,glossypeaks.Stopbeforetheyarestiffandshiny.

Siftone-thirdoftheflourmixtureoverthewhitesanduseaspatulatogentlyfolditin.Repeatwithhalfoftheremainingflourmixture,mixingtoincorporatebeforeaddingtheremainingflourmixture.Thebattershouldbeloose,butholditsshape.

Spoonthebatterintoapastrybagfittedwithaplain½-inchtiporaziplockbagwithonecornersnippedoff.Holdingthebagperpendiculartothepreparedbakingsheets,pipesmallmounds,about1inchindiameterand¼inchhigh,1inchapart.Letthedoughrestfor20minutes,oruntilthemacaronsarenolongerstickytothetouch.Meanwhile,preheattheovento350degreesF.

Bakethemacaronsfor12to16minutes,rotatingthepanonceduringbaking.Theywill

puff,becomeshiny,andfallveryslightly.Whenfullybaked,theywillbedryandverylightlybrown.Removethepanstoarackandletthecookiescoolcompletelyonthepanswhileyoumakethefilling.

Tomakethefilling,inasmallpanovermediumheat,heatthecreamwiththezestandsalttojustbelowtheboilingpoint.Putthechocolateinasmallbowlandpourthehotcreamoverit.Letitforsitseveralminutestomeltthechocolatebeforeaddingthebutterandstirringuntilsmooth.Stirinthelemonjuice.

Toassemblethecookies,turnhalfofthemupsidedown.Useanoffsetspatulaorsmallknifetospreadeachhalfwithabout2teaspoonsofthefilling,leavingtheedgesuncovered.Topwiththeremainingcookies,pressingtogethergentlysothefillingspreadstotheedgesofthesandwich.

lemoncrinklecookiesOnceuponatime,thesecookieswerechocolate.WemadethematWildwood,therestaurant(nowclosed)thatbroughtmetoPortland.Afanoftheirchewytexture,Ithoughtitwouldbefuntomaketheminotherflavors.Sincecreatingthechocolateversionofarecipeisoftenaseasyassubstitutingcocoapowderforsomeoftheflour,Ididthereverse,removingsomeofthecocoaandreplacingitwiththesameweightinflour.Anditworked!Aquickrollinpowderedsugarbeforebakinggivesthesecookiestheircrinkly,cracklyappearance.

MAKES4DOZENCOOKIES

1½cupsunbleachedall-purposeflour

¼cupcornstarch

1½teaspoonsbakingpowder

½teaspoonkoshersalt

1cupgranulatedsugar

2tablespoonsfinelygratedlemonzest(from2mediumlemons)

½cup(1stick)unsaltedbutter,atroomtemperature

2eggs

¼teaspoonlemonextract(optional)

½cupconfectioners’sugar

Line2bakingsheetswithparchmentpaper.Inasmallbowl,whisktogethertheflour,cornstarch,bakingpowder,andsalt.Setaside.

Inthebowlofastandmixerfittedwiththepaddleattachment,orabowlyou’dusewithahandheldelectricmixer,combinethesugarandzest.Usingyourfingers,rubthezestwiththesugaruntilitisveryaromatic.Addthebutterandbeatonmediumspeeduntilwellincorporated.Usingaspatula,scrapethebottomandsidesofthebowl,thenincreasethespeedtomediumhigh,mixinguntilthebutterandsugararelightincolorandfluffy.Addtheeggsoneatatime,mixingwellbetweenadditions.Addthelemonextract,followedbythedryingredients.Mixonlowspeedjustuntilblended,withoutanyflourystreaks.

Preheattheovento325degreesF.Puttheconfectioners’sugarinashallow,widebowl,orapieplate.Useatablespoontoscoopupaspoonfulofdoughaboutthesizeofsmallcherrytomato.Dustyourhandswithconfectioners’sugar,formthedoughintoaball,androlltheballinthesugaruntilwellcovered.Placetheballsonthepreparedbakingsheets,leaving1inchonallsides.

Bakethecookiesfor5minutes,rotatethepan,andbakeforanother5to7minutes.Whentheyareready,thecookieswillbesetaroundtheedgesandslightlypuffed.Thecenterswillbesoft,butnotshiny.Placethebakingsheetsonaracktocoolfor15minutes,thenmovethecookiesfromthepansontotheracktocoolcompletely.

VARIATION:Ifyouwanttotrytheoriginal,substitute⅔cupunsweetenedDutch-processedcocoapowderfor½cupoftheall-purposeflourand2tablespoonsofthecornstarch.

lemonbuttermilkpannacottawithlemonverbenaandblackberries

lemonbuttermilkpannacottawithlemonverbenaandblackberries

Pannacottaisasimpleyetelegantdessert.Acreamycanvasforcreativecombinationsofflavorsandtextures,thisversionisredolentoflemonandtangybuttermilk.MyfavoriteseasonalfruitsforpairingwithsilkypannacottaincludespringstrawberriesandsweetRainiercherries,summercaneberriesandstonefruit,andfallplumsandfigs.

Notethatthepannacottaneedstofirmupforleastsixhours,orovernight,somakethisdishthedaybeforeyou’dliketoserveit.Ifyoudon’tplantoturnitoutofthedish,youcaneatthepannacottasooner,aftertwotothreehours.

MAKES8SERVINGS

2⅓cupsheavycream

1cupsugar,divided

2tablespoonszest,removedwithazester(from2mediumlemons)

¼cuplightlypackedlemonverbenaleaves,plus8forgarnish

1tablespoonplus1teaspoonpowderedgelatin

1⅓cupsbuttermilk

4cupsfreshblackberries(about2pints)

1tablespoonfreshlysqueezedlemonjuice

Lightlycoat8(6-ounce)ramekinsordisheswithaneutral-flavoredoilsuchascanolaandsetaside.

Inalargesaucepanovermediumheat,combinethecream,½cupplus2tablespoonsofthesugar,thezest,andlemonverbena,stirringuntilthesugardissolves.Removethepanfromtheheat,cover,andinfusethecreamfor30minutes,oruntilthelemonflavorsarepronounced.Inasmallbowl,softenthegelatinin1tablespoonofcoldwaterforabout5minutes,thenstiritintothewarmcream.Whenthegelatinhasdissolved,addthebuttermilkandstirwell.Strainthemixturethroughafine-meshsieveintoacontainerwithaspout,suchasalargemeasuringcup,andpouritintothepreparedramekins.Coverthemwithplasticwrapandrefrigerateuntilfirm,atleast6hours,orovernight.

Beforeserving,puttheremaining6tablespoonsofsugarinablenderorfoodprocessorwith1cupoftheblackberriesandpuree.Strainthepureethroughafine-meshsieveandcombinewiththeremainingberriesandlemonjuice,addingmorejuicetotaste.

Toserve,unmoldtheramekinsbyrunningathinparingknifearoundthesidesordippingtheramekininwarmwatertoloosenthepannacotta.Putasmallplateorbowlovertheramekin,flipitover,andshakevigorouslytoloosen.Spoontheblackberriesandsaucearoundthebaseofthepannacotta.Garnishthetopwithalemonverbenaleaf.

Lemonverbenacanbefoundatsomefarmers’markets,butit’seasytogrowinapotathome.Harvestany

remainingleavesinthefalltodryfortea.Lemonthymeandlavendermakegoodsubstitutes,oryoucanskipthe

herbalelementaltogether.

affogatowithlimoncelloicecreamThisdecadent,sippableadultdessertisariffonanItalianfavorite:it’sessentiallyanaffogato(theItalianwordfor“drowned”),butinsteadofpouringashotofespressooverthemascarpone-enrichedlimoncelloicecream,Icallforshakingthetwotogetherinacocktailshaker.Serveitwithaspoonandastraw,forslurpingupthedregs.

MAKES6SERVINGS

2cupsheavycream

¾cupwholemilk

¾cupsugar,divided

½teaspoonkoshersalt

Peelof1lemon

5eggyolks

¼cupmascarponecheese

½teaspoonvanillaextract

⅓cupHomemadeLimoncelloorstore-bought

6shotsespresso,atroomtemperature

6lemontwists,forgarnish

Inamediumsaucepanovermedium-highheat,bringthecreamandmilktoasimmerwith½cupofthesugar,thesalt,andlemonpeel.Removethepanfromtheheat,cover,andsetasidefor20minutestoinfuse.

Meanwhile,inamediumnonreactivebowl,whisktheyolkswiththeremaining¼cupofsugaruntilsmooth,andsetaside.Prepareanicebathforthecustardbyfillingalargebowlhalfwaywithiceandcoldwaterandsettingitinthesink.

Whenthecreammixtureisinfused,returnittothestoveovermediumheatuntilitishot,butnotboiling.Slowlyaddaladlefulofcreamtotheyolkmixture,whiskingconstantlyuntilsmooth(thisiscalledtemperingtheyolks,atechniqueusedtopreventthemfromcurdlingwhentheyarecombinedwiththehotmilk).Repeatonemoretime,thenpourtheyolkmixturebackintothesaucepanovermedium-lowheat.Stirthecustardconstantlywithawoodenspoonorheatproofspatula,scrapingthebottomasyoustir,untilitreaches170degreesFonaninstant-readthermometerandcoatsthespoonorspatula.Removethepanfromtheheatandwhiskinthemascarponeandvanilla.Pourthecustardthroughafine-meshsieveintoacleanmediumbowl.Placethebowlinthepreparedicebathtocool,andchillintherefrigeratoruntilcompletelycold,atleast3hours,oruptoovernight.

Whenthecustardiscold,whiskinthelimoncelloandfreezethemixtureinanicecreammakeraccordingtothemanufacturer’sinstructions.

Toserve,placeascoopoficecreaminacocktailshakeroraglassjarwithalid.Addashotofespressoandshakevigorously.Pourintoacocktailglassandgarnishwithalemon

twist.Repeatforeachserving.

lemoncrèmebruléewithlavenderandhoney

lemoncrèmebruléewithlavenderandhoneyIknowI’mnotaloneinfindingchildlikepleasureintheactofbreakingthroughthecrispsugarcrustofacrèmebrulée.Here,lemonandlavenderperfumethehoney-sweetenedcustardunderthebruléedtop,creatingatriedandtruetrioofflavors.Lavendercanbepotent,anddifferentvarietieshavedifferentstrengths;besuretotastethecreamasitinfuses,sothattheflavorsarebalanced.

MAKES6SERVINGS

2cupsheavycream

2tablespoonshoney

3tablespoonscoarselychoppedlemonzest(from3mediumlemons)

2tablespoonsfreshlavenderflowers(or4teaspoonsdried)

⅛teaspoonsalt

3yolks

1egg

¼cupgranulatedsugar,plusadditionalforcaramelizing

1teaspoonvanillaextract

Preheattheovento300degreesF.

Inaheavysaucepan,combinethecream,honey,lemonzest,lavender,andsalt.Bringthemixturetoagentlesimmerovermediumheat,cover,andremovefromtheheat.Steep10minutesandtastethecreamtodetermineifthelemonandlavenderflavorsarebalancedandtoyourliking.Whentheyare,strainthemixture,discardthezestandlavender,andreturnthecreamtothepot.Ifithascooledcompletely,warmthecreamovermediumheatuntilitishot,butnotboiling.

Meanwhile,inamediumbowl,whisktheyolksandeggtogetherwiththesugaruntilsmooth.Slowlyaddsomeofthewarmcreamtotheyolks,about½cupatatime,whiskingconstantlytokeeptheeggsfromcurdling.Afteradding1cupofcream,pourthetemperedyolkmixturebackintothepanwiththeremainingcream.Addthevanillaandstrainthemixtureintoanothercontainertocoolinanicebathforbakinglater,ordivideitbetween6(4-ounce)ramekinsorglasscustardcups.

Arrangethedishesinadeepbakingpanandfillthepanwithenoughhotwatertocomehalfwayupthesidesofthedishes.Putthebakingpanintheovenandbakeuntilthecustardissetaroundedgesandslightlyjigglyincenter,about40minutes.Removethepanfromtheovenandallowthecustardstocoolbeforecoveringwithplasticwrap.Storeintherefrigeratortocoolcompletely,3hourstoovernight.

Justbeforeserving,sprinklethetopofeachcustardwithathin,evencoatingofsugar.Placethedishesunderapreheatedbroilerfor2to3minutes,oruntilthesugarmelts,oruseahand-heldblowtorchtocaramelizethesugar.

toastedcoconut–lemontartWeusedtohavethistartafterEasterdinner.Afternottastingitformanyyears,Iaskedmymomfortherecipe,whichcamefromhersister,myAuntBetty.Itwasn’tasgoodasmymemoryofit—overlysweetandnotnearlylemonyenough.Still,IknewIwantedtoreviveit.Therecipebelowbearslittleresemblancetotheoriginal;it’smuchbetter.Weallagreethatit’stimetoreintroducethetartatthefamilyEastertable,oranyspringcelebration.

Notethatthedoughneedstochillfortwohours,soplanaccordingly.Itcanalsobemadeaheadandrefrigerateduptothreedays.

MAKESONE10-INCHTART

FORTHECRUST:

1¼cupsunbleachedall-purposeflour

½cupconfectioners’sugar

2tablespoonscornstarch

¼teaspoonkoshersalt

10tablespoons(1¼sticks)unsaltedbutter,cold,cutintosmallpieces

¼teaspoonvanillaextract

FORTHEFILLING:

1cupsugar

2tablespoonsfinelychoppedlemonzest(from2mediumlemons)

2tablespoonscornstarch

½teaspoonkoshersalt

2eggs

2eggyolks

¼cup(½stick)unsaltedbutter,meltedandcooled

3tablespoonsfreshlysqueezedlemonjuice

1½cupslightlypackedunsweetened,driedcoconutflakes(alsocalledcoconutchips)

Tomakethecrust,inthebowlofastandmixerfittedwiththepaddleattachment,combinetheflour,confectioners’sugar,cornstarch,andsalt.Addthebutterallatonceandmixonlowspeeduntiltheingredientsbegintocometogethertomakeacohesivedough;thiswilltakeabitoftime,aslongas7to10minutes.Justbeforethedoughlookslikeit’sreadytoformaball,addthevanillaandmixtocombine.Shapetheballofdoughintoadisk,wrapitinplasticwrap,andrefrigerateuntilfirm,about2hours.

Onalightlyflouredsurface,rolloutthepastrytomakea12-to13-inchcircle.Fitthedoughintoa10-inchflutedtartpan,prickthedoughalloverwithafork,andfreezeitfor30minutes.Whilethedoughfreezes,preheattheovento350degreesFandplacearack

inthebottomthirdoftheoven.

Placethefrozencrustonabakingsheetandbake,uncovered,forabout15minutes.(There’snoneedtocoverthecrustorusepieweights.)Rotatethepanandbakeforanother10minutes,oruntilthecrustislightlygolden.Placethebakingsheetonaracktocoolthecrustandreducetheoventemperatureto325degreesF.

Whilethecrustcools,makethefilling.Inamediumbowl,combinethesugarandzestanduseyourfingerstorubthetwotogetheruntilthesugarisfragrant.Stirinthecornstarchandsalt.Inaseparatesmallerbowl,whisktheeggswiththeyolks,thenwhiskinthebutterandlemonjuice.Whisktheeggandbuttermixtureintothesugarmixture,beatingvigorouslytocombine.Stirinthecoconut.

Pourthemixtureintothecooledcrust.Bakefor20minutesonthebottomrack,rotatingthepanandkeepinganeyeonthecoconut;ifit’sgettingtoodark,coverthetoplooselywithapieceofaluminumfoil.Bakefor20moreminutes,oruntilthefillingsetsuparoundtheedgesandisslightlyjigglyinthecenter.Cooltoroomtemperaturebeforeserving.

meyerlemonandtangerineoliveoilcakeI’vemadeanoliveoilcakewithwholeorangesformyhusband’sbirthdaylongerthaneitherofuscanremember.HewasborninJanuary,whencitrusfruitisplentiful,andI’veoftenthoughtaboutsubstitutingMeyerlemonsorbloodorangesforthenavelorangesinmyrecipe.Notwantingtomeddlewithtradition,Ionlyrecentlygotaroundtocreatingthisversion.Amash-upofacoupleoffavoritesimplecakerecipes,thisonehascornmeal,whichalsomakesitagoodcandidateforbreakfastinmybook.

MAKESONE10-INCHCAKE

3½cupssugar,divided

2Meyerlemons,preferablyorganic

2smalltangerines

1⅔cupsunbleachedall-purposeflour

1cuppolentaormediumgrindcornmeal

1tablespoonbakingpowder

½teaspoonkoshersalt

4eggs

⅔cupextra-virginoliveoil

Lightlysweetenedwhippedcream,forserving

Inamediumsaucepan,combine2cupsofthesugarwith2cupsofwater.Bringthemixturetoaboilovermedium-highheat.Addthelemonsandtangerinesoncethesugarhasdissolved.(Thefruitsshouldbesubmergedbytwo-thirdsinthesimplesyrup.Iftheyaren’t,addmorewater.)Reducetheheattoasimmer,coverthepan,andgentlypoachthefruitsuntiltheyareverytender,20to30minutes.Transferthemtoaplatetocool.

Preheattheovento350degreesFandlightlyoila10-inchcakepan.Linethebottomwithparchmentpaperandsetaside.

Whenthefruitshavecooled,sliceofftheirends,andquarterthem.Removeanyseedsorlargepiecesofmembrane,addthepulptothebowlofafoodprocessor,andprocessuntilfairlysmooth.Youshouldhaveabout1¼cupspuree.Setaside.

Inasmallbowl,stirtogethertheflour,polenta,bakingpowder,andsalt,andsetaside.

Puttheeggsinthebowlofastandmixerfittedwiththewhiskattachment,oruseahandheldelectricmixeronhighspeedtowhiptheeggsuntiltheyarefoamyandlighterincolor,about2minutes.Withthemixerrunning,slowlyaddtheremaining1½cupssugarandcontinuetowhiponhighspeeduntilthemixtureisthickandcreamywhite,about4minutes.Reducethespeedtomediumanddrizzleintheoil.Addthepureedfruitandmixtocombine.Removethemixingbowlandfoldinone-thirdoftheflourmixture.Whenthebatterissmooth,addtherestoftheflour.Pourthebatterintothepreparedpanandsmooththetopwithaspatula.

Bakeuntilthecakeisdarkgoldenbrownandspringsbackafterbeinglightlypressedinthemiddle,50to60minutes.Letitcoolonarackfor15minutesbeforeremovingitfromthepan.Letitcoolcompletelybeforeslicingandservingwithadollopoflightlysweetenedwhippedcream.

drinks

RoseGeraniumLemonade

StrawberryLemonAguaFrescawithBasil

LemonMintLimonina

HomemadeLimoncello

LemonStickforAdults

Green-and-LemonShots

LemonRosemaryBarleyWater

rosegeraniumlemonade

rosegeraniumlemonadeLemonadefromscratchisalaboroflove,butIassureyouit’sworththeeffort.Thetrickistousethelemonpeelstomakeasyruptoaddtothejuice.Mixtheresultingelixirwithstillorsparklingwaterandpouritalloverice.Consideraddingasplashofvodkaorgin.Notethatthesugarneedstoinfuseovernightforthebestflavor.

MAKESASCANTQUARTOFSYRUPTOYIELD2TO24QUARTSLEMONADE

8mediumlemons

½cuplightlypackedrosegeraniumleaves,(7to10smallleaves)

2cupssuperfinesugar

Rosegeraniumflowers,forgarnish

Usingavegetablepeeler,removethepeelsofthelemonsinwidestrips,reservingthelemons.Placethestripsina2-quartjaroranonreactive,liddedpitcherwiththerosegeraniumleaves.Addthesugarand,usingamuddlerorthebackofawoodenspoon,mashthepeelsandleaveswiththesugartoreleasetheiressentialoils.Whenthepeelsarecoatedwithsugar,coverthejarandletsitovernightatroomtemperature.Thenextday,thesugarwillbewet,andthecontentswillbesittingslightlylowerinthejar.

Juicethereservedlemons;youshouldgetabout2cupsofjuice.Ifyou’reslightlyshort,addenoughwatertomake2cups.Addthejuicetothesugarandpeels,cover,andshakethejarvigorouslytodissolvethesugarandcombineitwiththelemonjuice.Tastethesyrup.Theflavoroftherosegeraniumshouldbesubtle.Ifitistoyourliking,strainthesyrupthroughafine-meshsieveintoacleanjarandstoreitintherefrigerator.(Foradditionalflavor,addafewmoreleavesandletthejarsitovernightintherefrigeratorbeforestrainingthesyrup.)

Tomakelemonade,pourequalpartssyrupandwaterinatallglass.Takeasipandaddmorewaterorsyruptotaste.Serveoverice,garnishedwithafewflowers.

Rosegeraniumisanold-fashionedflavor,perfectforlemonade.Itcanbedifficulttofindunlessyougrowityourself,orhaveareliablesource.Mostnurseriescarryscentedgeraniums,oryoucangowithadifferentherbaladdition—lavender,basil,lemonverbena,androsemaryareotherfavorites.

strawberrylemonaguafrescawithbasilAguafrescaisoneofthemostinvigoratingwaystoenjoyfreshfruit(andsometimesvegetables)inseason.Pureedripefruit,water,andasmallamountofsweetenerarecombinedwithherbsandlemonorlimejuice,andservedoverice.Iliketouseacombinationofstillandsparklingwater.OccasionallyI’llswapoutthestrawberrieshereforthesameamountofcucumber.

MAKESABOUT2½QUARTSAGUAFRESCA

1lemon

½cupsugar

4cupsripestrawberries,stemmedandhalved(about1pound)

1cuplightlypackedfreshbasilleaves

Usingavegetablepeeler,removethelemonpeelandplacethepeelsinalargenonreactivepitcheror4-quartjarwiththesugar.Usingamuddlerorthebackofawoodenspoon,mashthepeelswiththesugartoreleasetheiressentialoils.Setaside.

Trimtheblossomandstemendsofthelemon,removingenoughrindthatthepulpshows.Usingasharpparingknife,cutawaythewhitepithandchopthepulpintosmallpieces,removingtheseedsasyougo.

Pureethelemonpulp,strawberries,andbasilleavesinablenderwithenoughwatertoloosenthemixture,about½cup.Strainthroughafine-meshsieveintothepitcherwiththepeelsandsugar,addingatleastasmuchcoldwaterasyouhavepuree,startingwith5cups.Stirtheliquidwiththesugaruntilithasdissolved,taste,andaddmoresugarandwatertotaste.Theaguafrescashouldbelight,refreshing,andbarelysweet.Serveovercrushedice.

lemonmintlimoninaVariationsonthisrefreshingslushieareenjoyedaroundtheglobe,buttheIsraeliversion—thelimonana—seemstobethebestknown.IlearnedaboutthedrinkfrommyfriendNina,whobecameobsessedwithasimilardrinkmadewithlimeswhenshelivedinThailand.Occasionallyshe’dhavethestreetvendorswhomadethemthrowinsomeginger.

ThisdrinkisnamedforNina,wholivesinMumbainow.It’smadewithwhole,peeledlemonsandmint,anessentialherbinIndiancooking.Thetwoarewhirredtogetherinablenderwithcrushediceandgingersimplesyrup,whichiswhatmakesitthelimonina-with-an-i.

MAKES1SERVING

1cupsugar

1-inchknobginger,peeledandcoarselygrated

2smalllemons

⅓cuppackedfreshmintleaves

1½cupscrushediceorabout7icecubes

Inasmallsaucepan,combinethesugarwith1cupofwater.Bringthemixturetoaboilovermedium-highheat,stirringoccasionally.Whenthesugarhasdissolved,addthegingerandremovethepanfromtheheat.Leavethegingerinthesimplesyrupandletitcoolcompletely.Ifyou’reonlymaking1or2limonina,you’llhavesyrupleftover.Useittosweetenhotorcoldtea,oraddasplashtosparklingwaterorlemonade.Itwillkeepseveralweeks.

Meanwhile,trimtheblossomandstemendsofthelemons,removingenoughrindthatthepulpshows.Usingasharpparingknife,cutawaythepeelandwhitepith.Setthepeelasideforanotheruse.Cutthepulpintosmallpieces,removingtheseedsasyougo.

Putthelemonpulpinablenderwiththemint,½cupofthegingersyrup,andsomeofthegratedginger,andtheice.Blenduntilslushy,addingwaterifnecessarytosipthisdrinkthroughastraw.

homemadelimoncelloLimoncelloisaliqueurproducedprimarilyinsouthernItaly,whereSorrentolemonsgrow.Aftersteepingthepeelsinneutralspiritsorvodka,Italiansaddasimplesyrupmadewithvaryingamountsofsugarandwater(ormilk)andcontinuetoagethemixtureinthefreezer.Limoncelloistypicallyservedwellchilled,usuallyafteramealasadigestif.Notethatthelimoncellowillneedtoageforatleasttwoweeks.

MAKESABOUT8CUPSLIMONCELLO

10lemons,preferablyorganic

1(750ml)bottle100proofvodka

3cupssugar

Usingavegetablepeeler,removethepeelfromthelemonsinwidestrips,cuttingawayanypithremainingonthepeel.Setthefruitasideforanotheruse.Putthepeelsinalargenonreactivecontainerandpourthebottleofvodkaoverthem.Coverthecontainerwithplasticwrapandstoreitinacool,darkspotforaslongasyoucanwait,atleast2weeksandpreferably4weeks.

Inamediumsaucepan,bring4cupsofwatertoaboilwiththesugar,stirringconstantlyuntilthesugardissolves.Removethepanfromtheheatandcoolcompletely.Addthesugarsyruptothevodka,cover,andletthelimoncellositfor24hours.Strainthemixtureintoaclean2-quartjarwithalidanddiscardthelemonpeels.Storeinthefreezer.

VARIATION:Forcreamylimoncello,addavanillabean,splitandscraped,tothelemonpeelsandvodka.Attheendof2weeks(or4weeks),bring8cupsofwholemilktoasimmerwith5cupsofsugar.Simmerfor5minutes,untilthesugarhasdissolved,removefromtheheat,andcoolcompletely.Addthemilkysyruptothevodkaandstrainitintoaclearbottleorjar.Storeinthefreezer.

lemonstickforadultsPartginandtonic,partmojito,thisisthelemonstick,allgrownup.Itpacksapunch,sosipitslowlyorserveovericetoppedoffwithclubsoda.

MAKES1SERVING

2ouncesHomemadeLimoncelloorstore-bought

2ouncesgin

1ouncefreshlysqueezedlemonjuice

5largefreshpeppermintleaves

Lemontwist,forgarnish

Clubsodaorsparklingwater(optional)

Fillacocktailshakeroraliddedglassjarwithicecubes.Addthelimoncello,gin,lemonjuice,andmintleaves.Shakevigorouslyuntilwellchilled.Strainandserveinamartiniglassgarnishedwithalemontwist,orinahighballglassfilledwithice,toppedupwithclubsoda.

green-and-lemonshotsWhenwe’vegotanabundanceofkaleinourgarden,Ipullthejuiceroutandmakeenoughofthisrefreshingcombinationtofilltwolittlejuiceglasses.It’saperfectlybalancedshotofsweet-tart-spicy-greenfeel-good.

MAKES2SERVINGS

1lemon,quartered

2greenapples,suchasNewtownPippinorGrannySmith

2packedcupskaleorspinachleaves

1-inchknobginger,peeled

Removeanyvisibleseedsfromthelemonquarters,andcuttheapples(unpeeledanduncored)intopiecesthatwillfitthroughyourjuicerfeedchute.Insertthelemon,followedbytheappleandkale.Sendthegingerthroughlastandenjoyimmediately.

lemonrosemarybarleywaterBarleywaterhasbeenassociatedwithWimbledonforeightyyears,thoughdrinkingwaterwithboiledgraindatesallthewaybacktoancienttimes.Creditedwitheverythingfromnutritivetorestorativeproperties(theInvalidCookerysectionofMrs.Beeton’sBookofHouseholdManagementhasseveralrecipes),barleywater’spowersarelargelyunproven.AsfarasIcantell,itsabilitytorefresh,whetheratWimbledonorabackyardbarbecue,isreasonenoughtobrewabatch.Usetheleftoverbarleytomakeasalad.

Barleyisavailableinhulled(stillcontainingthegerm)andpearledforms.Itriedbothandpreferpearlbarley,whichgivesbarleywaterthecreamytextureandcloudyappearanceforwhichitisknown.

MAKES2QUARTSBARLEYWATER

1cuppearlbarley,wellrinsed

4lemons,peelremovedwithavegetablepeeler,fruitjuiced,divided

1cupsuperfinesugar

4sprigsfreshrosemary

Inalargesaucepan,combinethebarleywith2quartscoldwaterandhalfofthelemonpeels.Coverandbringtoaboiloverhighheat.Reducetheheattoasimmerandcontinuetocook,partiallycovered,for30minutes,oruntilthebarleyistenderbutnotmushy.

Meanwhile,placetheremainingpeelsandthesugarinalargewide-mouthjarornonreactivepitcherand,usingamuddlerorthebackofawoodenspoon,mashthepeelswiththesugartoreleasetheiressentialoils.

Whenthebarleyiscooked,strainthebarleywaterintothejarandaddtherosemary.Stiruntilthesugardissolves,tastingoccasionallytogaugethestrengthoftherosemaryflavor.Removethesprigswhenittastesgoodtoyou.Addthejuiceof2ormorelemonsandrefrigerate.Leavethepeelsinthejarforadditionalflavor.

staples

PreservedLemons

HomemadeRicottaCheese

LemonCurd

LemonChutneywithDatesandCoriander

Lemon-InfusedOliveOil

MeyerLemon–GrapefruitMarmalade

CandiedLemonRibbons

preservedlemons

preservedlemonsHavingtriedanumberofmethodsforpreservinglemonsovertheyears,IthinkI’vefinallylandedonafavorite.Theinitialperiodofmarinatinginsaltistransformative,removinganybitternessandreplacingitwithpurelemon,withasofttextureandpickledflavor.Recipestypicallyallowonemonthforthisstep,butI’vefoundaweekisagreatstartwhenthelemonsarefirstcutintoeighths.Theycontinuetomellowandageintherefrigerator,wheretheywillkeepforsixmonthsormore.

You’llsoondiscoverthatpreservedlemonsdeserveaplaceofhonoramongyourfavoritecondimentsandfindyourselflookingforplacestoincludetheiruniquelyexoticflavor.Trytheminstews(BraisedBeefwithPreservedLemonsandHarissa),salads(CrackedWheatandCarrotSaladwithPreservedLemon),sauces,andvinaigrettes(SummerTomatoandGreenBeanSaladwithPreservedLemonVinaigrette).

MAKES6PRESERVEDLEMONS,CUTINTOEIGHTHS

1dozensmalllemons(about3pounds)

1cupcoarseseasalt

Extra-virginoliveoil

Filla1-quartcanningjarwithboilingwater.Letthewatersitfor1minute;drainthejarandinvertitonacleantoweltodry.Sliceoffanddiscardthestemandblossomendsof6ofthelemonsandcutthemlengthwiseintoeighths.Putthewedgesinanonreactivebowl.Juicetheremaininglemons;youshouldendupwithabout1cupofjuice.Setthejuiceaside.

Addthesalttothebowlandtossthelemonsectionstocoatbeforepackingthemintothejar.Asyoufillthejar,addthesaltfromthebowl,evenlydistributingitthroughoutthejar.Coverthelemonswiththejuice,leaving½inchofheadroombetweenthejuiceandnonreactivelid.Letthelemonssitatroomtemperatureforaweek.Shakethejareverydaytoredistributethesaltandjuice.Afteraweek,addoiltocoverandrefrigerateforupto6months.

homemadericottacheeseTruericottaismadewithleftoverwhey,aby-productofmakinghardcheeseormozzarella.Althoughitisn’tauthenticinthestrictsenseoftheword,thissimplerecipedoesproducearesultfarsuperiortotheonesoldatgrocerystores.Anacid—lemonjuicehere—isthekeyingredient,separatingthecurdsfromthewheywhenit’sstirredintohotmilk.AvoidmilkthatisUHT—ultra-hightemperature—pasteurized,aprocessthatchangesitsproteinstructureandpreventsthemilkfromseparating.Theheavycreammakesforextra-rich,silky-smoothricotta.Thoughyoucan’tmakemorericottafromthewheyproducedinthisrecipe,youneedn’tdiscardit;it’sdeliciousforpoachingchickenorfish,makingoatmeal,orusinginplaceofwaterinbakingrecipes.

MAKES1GENEROUSCUPCHEESE

4cupswholemilk,notUHTpasteurizedandpreferablyorganic,suchasOrganicValley

1cupheavycream(optional)

½teaspoonkoshersalt

3to4tablespoonsfreshlysqueezedlemonjuice

Inanonreactivesaucepanovermedium-highheat,warmthemilk,cream,andsalt,stirringoccasionallytopreventburning.Whenthemilkregisters180degreesFonaninstant-readthermometer,removethepanfromtheheat.Addthelemonjuice(3tablespoonsforjustmilk;4tablespoonsformilkandcream),stironceortwice,andletthemixturestandundisturbedwhilethecurdsandwheyseparate,about15minutes.

Lineacolanderorsievewithcheesecloth,unbleachedpapertowels,oralargecoffeefilter.Setitoverabowlandladlethecurdsintothestrainer.Letthericottadraintoyourpreferredthickness;Ilikemyricottatohaveacreamyconsistency,similartoGreekyogurt.Putthericottainacleancontainerintherefrigeratoranduseitwithin4to5days.

lemoncurdI’vealwaysassociatedlemoncurdwithmygreatgrandmother,whowasScottish.Shespreaditonscones,freshfromtheoven,andslatheredherthickbutteryshortbreadwithit.Itwasn’tuntilIbecameinterestedinbakingthatIrealizedhowversatiletheyolkyyellowspreadis:It’safillingforcookiesandtarts,oratoppingforpoundcakeorabowlfulofberries.Youcanswirlitintocakebatterorfreezeitandservesmallscoopsinsteadoficecreamorwhippedcream.Leftovercurdwillkeepuptooneweekintherefrigeratoranduptotwomonthsinthefreezer.

MAKESABOUT1⅓CUPSCURD

1cupsugar

¼cupcoarselychoppedlemonzest(from4mediumlemons)

6eggyolks

½cupfreshlysqueezedlemonjuice(from2mediumlemons)

6tablespoonsunsaltedbutter,cutintosmallpieces

½teaspoonkoshersalt

Prepareawaterbathforthecurd:Fillamediumpanwithafewinchesofwaterandbringthewatertoasimmer.Keepthewatersimmeringoverlowheatwhileyoucookthecurd.

Inanonreactivebowlthatissmallenoughtofitinsidethepanwiththewater,whisktogetherthesugar,zest,andeggyolks.(Dothisquickly:ifyouwait,themixturewillcoagulate.)Placethebowloverthepanandwhiskcontinuouslyuntilthesugardissolves.Addthelemonjuiceand,stillwhisking,cookforabout5minutes,untilthemixturebeginstothickenveryslightly.Addthebutterandsalt,thenswitchtoaspatulaandstirconstantlyuntilthemixtureisthickandopaque,withaconsistencybetweenyogurtandsourcream,about10moreminutes.Thecurdwillregisterapproximately170degreesFonaninstant-readthermometer.

Strainthecurdthroughafine-meshsieveintoacleanbowlandcoverwithplasticwrap,placingitdirectlyonthesurfacetopreventaskinfromforming.Refrigerateuntilfirm,about1hour.

lemonchutneywithdatesandcorianderMostofthecreditforthisrecipegoestothelateLaurieColwin,awonderfulnovelistwhoalsowroteaboutfoodwithanenthusiasmthatwascontagious.Itisnearlyimpossibletoreadherworkwithoutwantingdesperatelytocook,eat,or,inmycase,writeaboutfood.Aloverofchutney,Iwentstraighttothekitchenafterreadingherrecipeandmadeitexactlyaswritten.Overtheyears,I’veadaptedit,mostnotablybyaddingdates.Still,IofferitwithasignificantnodtoColwin.

Servethischutneywithcheese—sharpcheddarandgoatcheesearegoodmatches—roastpork,orlamb,oruseitasaglazeforgrilledchickenthighs.Notethatthelemonsneedtopickleovernight,somakethisrecipeadaybeforeyouplantoserveit.

MAKES2HALF-PINTJARS

4lemons(about1pound)

1tablespoonkoshersalt

⅓cupfinelychoppedshallots

¼cupfreshlysqueezedlemonjuice(from1mediumlemon)

¼cupapplecidervinegar

2teaspoonspeeledandgratedfreshginger

1tablespoonyellowmustardseeds

1teaspooncorianderseeds,lightlytoastedandcrushed

½teaspoonredpepperflakes

1cupdarkbrownsugar

1cuppitted,finelychoppeddates(about5½ounces)

Usingavegetablepeeler,removethepeelfromthelemons,cuttingawayanypithremainingonthepeel.Useasharpparingknifetoremovethepithfromthelemons.Finelychopthepulpandpeels,discardingtheseeds,andputtheminanonreactivebowlwiththesaltandanyjuicesfromthecuttingboard.Coverthebowlandletitsitovernightonthecounter.

Thenextday,putthecontentsofthebowlinanonreactivesaucepanwiththeshallots.Stirinthelemonjuice,cidervinegar,ginger,mustardandcorianderseeds,pepperflakes,andbrownsugar.Bringthemixturetoaslowboilovermedium-highheat,stirringuntilthesugardissolves.

Addthedatesandreducetheheattoasimmer.Continuetocookoverlowheat,stirringoccasionally,untilthemixtureisthickandglossy,45minutesto1hour.

Seasontotastewithadditionalsalt,ifnecessary.Ifyoudon’tplantousethechutneywithin2weeks,ladleitintohot,sterilizedjarsandprocessinawaterbathaccordingtothejarmanufacturer’sinstructions.Storetheminacool,dark,dryplaceforuptoayear.

lemon-infusedoliveoilThemostcommonwaytomakeinfusedoilisbyheatingitgentlywiththeingredientthatwillflavorit.Buttoomuchheat—lengthoftime,temperature,orboth—compromisesthequalityofyouroliveoil.ThetechniqueIemployinthisrecipeissimilartomakinglemonsugar,usingsaltinsteadofsugar,andamortarandpestle,ratherthanmyfingertips,toextracttheessentialoil.Theresultisavibrant,lemon-flavoredoilthat’sgoodoneverythingfromscrambledeggstoroastedasparagus,invinaigrettesandaioli,ordrizzledoverpopcornwithseasaltandrosemary.Irecommendusingagood-qualityoliveoilforthebestresult.Notethattheoilshouldinfuseforthreedaysbeforeyoucanuseit.

MAKES1CUP

2mediumlemons

1teaspoonfineseasalt

1cupextra-virginoliveoil

Usingavegetablepeeler,removethepeelfromthelemons,cuttingawayanypithremainingonthepeel.Setthefruitasideforanotheruse.Youshouldhaveapproximately¼cuppeels.Addthepeelstoalargemortarornonreactivebowl.Sprinklethepeelswiththesaltand,usingapestle,muddler,orthebackofawoodenspoon,rubthepeelswiththesaltuntilitdissolves.Addone-fourthoftheoilandgentlymuddlethepeelswiththeoilfor1minute,oruntiltheoilisveryaromatic.Addtherestoftheoil,stir,andcoverthemortarlooselywithplasticwrap.Allowtheoiltoinfuseatroomtemperaturefor3daysbeforestrainingitintoaclean,dryglassjar.Storeitintherefrigeratororacool,darkcupboardupto6months.

meyerlemon-grapefruitmarmalade

meyerlemon–grapefruitmarmaladeThisgorgeousmarmaladeisthecolorofasunset.Itsflavorstrikestheperfectbalanceofbitter,tart,andsweet,owingtothecombinationofcitruspulp,rind,andsugar.Makingmarmaladeisabitofaproject,butthelargeyieldmeansyouhaveplentyforyourowntoastandforsharing.Itwillkeepnicelyforayearormore.Notethattheuncookedmarmaladeneedstositovernight,sothisisatwo-dayprocess.

MAKES6PINTJARS

3largeredorpinkgrapefruit(about3pounds),preferablyorganic

4to6Meyerlemons(about1pound),preferablyorganic

4cupssugar

1vanillabean,splitandscraped

Halvethegrapefruitandplacetheminalargenonreactivestockpotwiththewholelemons.Addenoughcoldwatertocoverthefruitbyafewinchesandsimmer,uncovered,untilthefruitisverysoft,about1hour.(Useawoodenskewertotestthefruit;itshouldpiercetheskineasily.)Ifthelemonsarereadybeforethegrapefruit,removethemtoabowltocool.Whenthegrapefruithalvesareready,setthemasidetocool.

Whenthefruitiscoolenoughtohandle,holdagrapefruithalfinthepalmofonehandand,workingoveramediumbowl,useaspoontoscoopthefleshandmembraneintothebowl,removinganyseedsasyougo.Thenusethespoontogentlyscrapeanddiscardanyexcesspithorfibersfromtheshell.Halveeachgrapefruitshellandcutitcrosswiseinto¼-inchstrips.Putthestripsinacontainerwithalidandreserveintherefrigeratoruntilthenextday.(Addingthegrapefruitpeelpartwaythroughtheprocessinsuresthatitholdsitshapeandretainsaslightchew.)

Repeattheprocesswiththelemons,addingthemembraneandanyjuiceorpulptothesamebowl,removingtheseedsasyougo.Beforeaddingthepeelstothebowl,gobackthroughandremoveanyseedsyoumighthavemissed.Coarselychopthepeelsandaddthemtothebowl.

Putthecontentsofthebowlintothebowlofafoodprocessor.Processuntilthefruitandlemonpeelarefinelychoppedandtransferthemtoacopperpreservingpan,orawide,nonreactivesaucepan.Add3cupsofcoldwater,thesugar,andvanillabean.Bringthemixturetoaboiloverhighheat,stirringonceortwicetocombinetheingredients.Removethepotfromtheheatandrefrigerateitovernight,tightlycovered.

Thenextday,addthereservedgrapefruitpeeltothepanwiththefruitandbringthemixturetoaboil,uncovered,overhighheat.Cookatalivelyboilforapproximately30minutes.Atfirst,themixturewillbubblegently.Asthemoisturecooksout,concentratingthesugar,itwillfoam.Stireveryfewminutesafteritbeginsfoaming.Thebubbleswillbecomesmallwhenthemarmaladeisclosetobeingready,between222and225degreesF.(Spoonabitontoaplateandputitintherefrigeratorfor3minutes.Ifitthickenslikejam,it’sready.)Whenitsets,takethepotoffoftheheatandremoveanysurfacefoam

withacleanspoon.Removeanddiscardthevanillabean.Ladlethemarmaladeintohot,sterilizedjarsandprocessinawaterbathaccordingtothejarmanufacturer’sinstructions.Storethemarmaladeinacool,dark,dryplaceforayearormore.

candiedlemonribbonsHere’sawaytousezestfromarecipethatcallsforalargequantityoffreshlemonjuice.Beforejuicingthefruit,removethepeelandcutitthinstripsoruseavegetablepeelertoremovewiderpieces,whichIpreferfortheirunevenedgesandthewaytheycurlastheysimmerinthesimplesyrup.Garnishindividualdessertswithasingle,sugaredstripandlargeritemswithasparklytangleofcurls.

MAKES20TO24SUGAREDPEELS

4mediumlemons,preferablyorganic

2cupssugar,plusadditionalforcoatingthepeels

¼teaspooncreamoftartar,or2tablespoonscornsyrup

Usingavegetablepeeler,removethepeelfromthelemonsin½-to1-inch-widestrips,cuttingawayanypithremainingonthepeel.Cutthepeelsintothinnerstrips,ifdesired,andsetthefruitasideforanotheruse.

Placethepeelsinanonreactivesaucepanandcoverthemwithcoldwater.Bringthewatertoaboilovermedium-highheat.Boilthepeelsfor1minute,drain,andcoverwithfreshcoldwater.Repeattwomoretimes,thendrainthepeelsandremovethemtoaplate.

Usingthesamepan,bring1cupofwatertoaboilwiththesugarandcreamoftartar,stirringoccasionallyuntilthesugardissolves.Addthepeelstothesyrup,reducetheheattoasimmer,andgentlycookuntiltheyaretranslucent,about1hour.Allowthepeelstocoolcompletelyinthesyrup,thenuseaslottedspoontotransferthemtoawireracksetoverarimmedbakingsheet.(Refrigeratethesyrupforanotheruse.)Letthepeelsdryforseveralhours,oruntiltheyaresticky,butnotwet.(Iftheyarestillwet,wipeoffanyremainingsyrupwithapapertowel.)Spreadahandfulofsugaronaplateandtossthepeelsinthesugar,afewatatime,coatingthemcompletely.Storethepeelsinacontainerwithatightfittinglidforupto3months.

Anyleftoversyrupfromcandyingthelemonpeelswillbethickandintenselysweet,andwillkeepindefinitelyintherefrigerator.Useitsparinglyinsweettea,addtosparklingwatertomakeItaliansodas,orsplashitintoyourfavoriteginorvodkacocktails.It’salsogoodstirredintoplainyogurt,drizzledoverfreshfruit,orbrushedonabutterandegg-richbundtcakejustoutoftheoven.

acknowledgmentsAnyonewho’swrittenoneknowsthatacookbookisacollaborativeeffort.Fromstarttofinish—nomatteritssize,shape,length,orcontent—abookisshapedbyateam,eachmemberinformingtheprojectwithaspecificvision.ThisonebeganwithSusanRoxboroughandSasquatchBooks,whoapproachedmelastwinteraboutwritingalemoncookbook.Thanksfortheopportunity;itwasaprojectIenjoyedenormously.

Unlesstherecipesarebulletproof,acookbookisoflittleuse.Ihadacrackteamofrecipetesters,whocapablyandcheerfullyputmyrecipesthroughmultipletests.I’mincrediblygratefultoMarianneFrischandSaraSchrager,whotogethertested,documented,andofferedvaluablefeedbackonasignificantchunkoftherecipes.OthergeneroustestersincludeDianneandTomMcFarland,CaraPestorius,andJackleendelaHarpe.ThanksalsotoSarahandKevinScaldeferriandMiriamCarson.

SpecialthankstofriendandacephotographerJohnVallsandhisbetterhalf/propstylist/projectmanager,TheresaValls.Ican’timagineateambetterqualifiedtobringmyrecipestolife,orwithwhomI’drathercollaborate.JoyceHwang’slovelydesignandillustrationspulledalloftheelementstogethertocreatethisbeautifullittlebook.

Finally,thankstomyalwayssupportivehusband,Steven,whodidn’ttellmeuntilafterI’dturnedinthemanuscriptthathemightbealittlebittiredoflemons.

indexNOTE:Photographsareindicatedbyitalics.

A

AffogatowithLimoncelloIceCream

AguaFrescawithBasil,StrawberryLemon

AsparagusandLemonPestoPizzawithSmokedMozzarella

B

Bars,BestLemon

beef

BraisedBeefwithPreservedLemonsandHarissa

GrilledFlankSteakwithCharredLemonChimichurri,5.1,5.2

Biscotti,PepperyLemonParmesan

BreadandChickenSaladwithRoastedLemon-ShallotVinaigrette,Toasted,5.1,5.2

breakfasts

BrusselsSproutsandKaleSaladwithLemon–BrownButterVinaigrette

C

Cake,MeyerLemonandTangerineOliveOil

CandiedLemonRibbons

Cauliflower“Couscous”withLemon,Parsley,andAlmonds,Toasted,3.1,3.2

Chard-LentilSoupwithLemon,Feta,andDill

cheese,ricotta.Seericottacheese

ChickenSaladwithRoastedLemon-ShallotVinaigrette,ToastedBreadand,5.1,5.2

ChickenSoupwithHerbedDumplings,LemonParmesan

Chocolate-FilledLemonAlmondMacarons

ChutneywithDatesandCoriander,Lemon

Cookies,LemonCrinkle

cookware,nonreactive

CornontheCobwithSmokedPaprika-LemonButter,Grilled

Crab,Tarragon,andCrèmeFraîche,MeyerLemonRisottowithDungeness

CrèmeBruléewithLavenderandHoney,Lemon,6.1,6.2

curd.Seelemoncurd

D

DalwithSpinachandYogurt,Lemon

drinks

DutchBaby,David’sDouble-Lemon,1.1,1.2

E

EggswithLemon,Cream,andPoppySeeds,Baked,1.1,1.2

G

GnocchiwithShellingPeasandGreenGarlic,Lemon–GoatCheese,4.1,4.2

Green-and-LemonShots

GreenBeanandTomatoSaladwithPreservedLemonVinaigrette,Summer,2.1,2.2

H

HalibutwithLemonRelish,Pan-Seared,5.1,5.2

I

IceCream,AffogatowithLimoncello

J

juicing

K

KaleandBrusselsSproutsSaladwithLemon–BrownButterVinaigrette

L

LambChopswithLemon,Sumac,andZa’atar,Grilled

Lemonade,RoseGeranium,7.1,7.2

lemoncurd

LemonandPoppySeedParfaitwithStrawberries,6.1,6.2

LemonCurd,recipefor

MiniLemonMeringueWhoopiePieswithLemonCurdFilling,6.1,6.2

lemons,about

LemonStickforAdults

Lentil-ChardSoupwithLemon,Feta,andDill

Limoncello,Homemade

LimoncelloIceCream,Affogatowith

Limonina,LemonMint

M

Macarons,Chocolate-FilledLemonAlmond

Marmalade,MeyerLemon–Grapefruit,8.1,8.2

meat,seafood,andpoultry

MeyerLemon–GrapefruitMarmalade,8.1,8.2

MeyerLemonandTangerineOliveOilCake

MeyerLemonRisottowithDungenessCrab,Tarragon,andCrèmeFraîche

MuffinswithCrystallizedGinger,Lemon

O

oliveoil,lemon-infused

BakedEggswithLemon,Cream,andPoppySeeds,1.1,1.2

ButteryHedgehogPotatoeswithLemonandHerbs

recipefor

P

PannaCottawithLemonVerbenaandBlackberries,LemonButtermilk,6.1,6.2

ParfaitwithStrawberries,LemonandPoppySeed,6.1,6.2

PieswithLemonCurdFilling,MiniLemonMeringueWhoopie,6.1,6.2

PizzawithSmokedMozzarella,AsparagusandLemonPesto

PotatoeswithLemonandHerbs,ButteryHedgehog

PreservedLemon,CrackedWheatandCarrotSaladwith

PreservedLemons,8.1,8.2

PreservedLemonsandHarissa,BraisedBeefwith

PreservedLemonVinaigrette,SummerTomatoandGreenBeanSaladwith,2.1,2.2

R

Ribbons,CandiedLemon

ricottacheese

HomemadeRicottaCheese

LemonCornmealRicottaWaffles,1.1,1.2

SpaghettiwithRadicchio,Ricotta,andLemon-GarlicBreadCrumbs,4.1,4.2

SummerTomatoandGreenBeanSaladwithPreservedLemonVinaigrette,2.1,2.1

RisottowithDungenessCrab,Tarragon,andCrèmeFraîche,MeyerLemon

RoseGeraniumLemonade,7.1,7.2

RosemaryBarleyWater,Lemon

S

salads,2.1,5.1

SalmonwithLemons,CedarPlank–Grilled

sides

SoupwithHerbedDumplings,LemonParmesanChicken

SoupwithLemon,Feta,andDill,Lentil-Chard

SpaghettiwithRadicchio,Ricotta,andLemon-GarlicBreadCrumbs,4.1,4.2

SpinachandYogurt,LemonDalwith

Squash,LemonMiso-RoastedDelicata

staples

StrawberryLemonAguaFrescawithBasil

sweets

T

Tart,ToastedCoconut–Lemon

TomatoandGreenBeanSaladwithPreservedLemonVinaigrette,Summer,2.1,2.2

V

vegetariandishes

vinaigrettes

Lemon–BrownButterVinaigrette

PreservedLemonVinaigrette,2.1,2.2

RoastedLemon-ShallotVinaigrette,5.1,5.2

W

Waffles,LemonCornmealRicotta,1.1,1.2

Z

zesting

ZucchiniSaladwithLemonandMarjoram,Shaved,2.1,2.2

conversionchart

abouttheauthorELLENJACKSONtrainedattheNewEnglandCulinaryInstituteandworkedfortwelveyearsinsomeofPortland’sbestrestaurants.Sheispresentlyacookbookauthor,foodwriterandstylist,andrecipedeveloper.ShesitsontheboardofthePortlandFarmers’MarketandisamemberofSlowFoodPortland,ChefsCollaborative,andPortlandCulinaryAlliance.SheistheauthorofTheChefsCollaborativeCookbook,co-authorofTheGrandCentralBakingBook,andcontributortoThePaley’sPlaceCookbook.EllenlivesinPortland,OR.