the j-low - first watt
TRANSCRIPT
The J-LowDimensioned Drawings • Panel Schedule & Cut List • Assembly Diagrams
Dimensioned DrawingsD
3/4
"27
7/8"
6"23
/4"
345/
8"
3/4
"23
5/8"
55/8
"33
/4"
41/2
"33
/4"
72"
233/4" 251/4"
72"
30"
6"6"
30"
117/8" 117/8"
21/8" 43/8" 55/8"
111/
4"12
1/4"
21/8
"
291/
4"12
"29
1/4"
111/4" 113/4"
5" 101/2" 13/8"
45°
135°
135° 135°
If you have access to a minimal number of wood working tools, these cabinets are quite easy to build. While they can be constructed with rebate joints or biscuits, we have designed a simple way to assemble the parts by using a small number of simple miters and butt joints. We used 3/4" oak veneered MDF, but just about any material will do. The following list is what you will need to build a pair of cabinets:
A. (2) Jordan JX-92S drivers and enough speaker wire to run from the driver to the amplifier.B. (5) 4" x 8' sheets of 3/4" material and iron-on edge banding if you choose veneered material.C. A bottle of yellow wood glue.D. A handfull of drywall screws and rope caulk (for mounting the drivers).E. A roll of clear packaging tape (to help align the miters).F. A table saw and a jig saw (or someone who will cut the parts for you).G. A few clamps or heavy weights, such as cans of paint or tubs of cat litter.H. A cordless drill and an assortment of bits.J. The strength of Hercules (if you use 3/4" MDF).
D1
Front View641
302
762
19 19302
152
152
1829
762
19
Side View
708
54
153
305
743
1959
9
14411154
126 36267
28719 297
287
312
7087
9
9511
495
144
1829
743
603
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Panel Schedule & Cut ListP
233/4" 233/4"
48"
951/
4"
23"
72"RSLS
BM BM
P1
603
1219
603
584
2419
1829
Miter Angle
23 3/4
90
2
2
2
2
23 3/4
23 3/4
23 3/4
23
72
72
23
603
603
603
603
584
584
1829
1829
90
90
90
90
90
90
90
90
90
90
90
Panel QtyWidth(inches)
1 2 3 4Height Width Height(degrees) (degrees) (degrees) (degrees)(inches) (mm) (mm)
TP
BM
LS
RS
90
90
90
90
Dimensions*
* all dimensions are to outside of miter
1 3
4
2P2
8"72
"
2"
3" 43/8
"43
/8"
16"
73/4
"73
/4"
101/
2"2"
12"
3"8"
233/4"
96"
16"
101/
2"
233/4"
48"
FB
4.5"ø Cutout
Centered
BK A1
A1
A2
A2
A3A3
B1
B1
B3B3
B2
B2
SP
SP
P3
1829
197
203
2438
406
305
111
7676
406
603 603
1219
111
267
5119
751
267
203
Panel Miter Angle
90
* all dimensions are to outside of miter
Qty
1 3
4
2
Width(inches)
1 2 3 4Height Width Height(degrees) (degrees) (degrees) (degrees)(inches) (mm) (mm)
23 3/4
90
Dimensions*
90
BK
90
90 90
90
45
22.5
22.5
90
90
90
22.5
22.5
90
23 3/4
23 3/4
23 3/4
7 3/4
10 1/2
2
4
4
4
603
603
603
197
267
51
A1
A2
A3
B2
B1
B3
90
90
90
22.5
22.5
22.5
90
90
90
22.5
22.5
90
23 3/4
23 3/4
8
4 3/8
3
4
4
4
603
603
603
203
111
76
90 9023 3/4 722 603 1829
22.5 90 22.523 3/4 12 603 3052FB
45 90 4523 3/4 164 603 406SP
P4
83/4"83/4" 83/4" 23/4"
101/
2"10
1/2"
101/
2"10
1/2"
48"
83/4"
48"
201/
2"20
1/2"
93/4
"31
/2"
33/4
"
33/8" 53/8"
97/8
"
51/4"
223
87
Miter Angle
TT
SB
SB
SB
SB
TT
TT
TT
TT
TT
TT
TT
TT
SB
1 3
2
4
4
2
Panel QtyWidth(inches)
1 2 3 4Height Width Height(degrees) (degrees) (degrees) (degrees)(inches) (mm) (mm)
Dimensions*
90
90 90
90 90
90222 90
90
20 1/2
4
8
2 3/4
8 3/4
10 1/2 70
521
267
* all dimensions are to outside of miter
(all angular cuts are 45º)
520
520
223 223
31
P5
8995
251
136
249
1219
267
134
223 70
1219
267
267
267
A Assembly Diagrams
A2
90º
A1
A3
TT
LS
Lay a side panel on your workbench and locate the throat template (TT) in the orientation shown. Make sure it's installed 3/4" (19 mm) from the back edge and 28 5/8" (727 mm) from the bottom edge. Glue into place. Using the template as a guide, glue the mitered edges of blue Series A components (A1, A2 & A3) together one at a time as shown below. Use clear packing tape to hold the joints together on the outside of the miter. The clear tape will aid in the alignment procedure, as well as allowing you to visually verify that the glue has flowed into the entire joint. Make sure that the three pieces fit snugly against the throat template, the miters are tight and the three A panels are perpendicular to the side panel.
A1
B2
LS
B1
B3
Next, glue up the red B Series pieces using the throat template as a guide. Verify that the corner of B1 is 30" (762 mm) from the bottom and flush with the outside edge of the side panel.A2
LS
Glue the red and blue interior partitions to the throat template that's already attached to the left side panel. If you have clamps, clamp the assembly, if not place a piece of scrap across the red and blue assemblies and weight them down. When the glue has cured, install the second throat template (TT) on top as shown.
A3
TT
LS
A4 Build a mirror-imaged second assembly using the same measurements, only this time take them from the top of the side panel.
LS
CS
CS
A5 Glue the Chamber Spacers (CS) into place as shown.
LS
FB
A6Glue the front baffle in place as shown. Make sure it is flush with the front edge of the side panel. If you didn't pre-cut the driver opening, mark the front baffle and cut a 4 1/2" diameter (114 mm) circular opening.
BK
LS
Glue the back into place, flush with the outside edge of the side panel, top and bottom. A7
BM
BK
LS
TP
Glue the bottom and top to the side and back panels, making sure they are vertical.A8
SP
SP
TP
BM
LS
BK
BM
A9 Install the strike plates (SP) in the locations shown.
RS
Glue the right side panel (RS) to finish the cabinet. If you have clamps, use them. If not, weight the side panel down with what ever you have handy. Once the glue has cured, drill a hole in the back panel directly opposite the driver opening for the speaker cable. Finish sand the entire cabinet and iron on the edge banding. The final finish is your choice. We used Watco oil.
Once the oil has cured, get a fork lift, or five stout teenagers to move the cabinet into your listening area. Mark the hole locations for the driver, and drill pilot holes. Solder the speaker cable of your choice to the driver, then feed the cable through the hole in the rear of the cabinet. Stuff liberally with dacron and mount the driver with drywall screws. Connect the cable to your favorite amp, flip on the power and Bob's your uncle.
0A1