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The History of Boots Cameron Kippen, Curtin Universty of Technology, Perth WA

Throughout history, costume then fashion footwear have reflected social, economic and political developments. Usually

what started as a practical application in one part of the globe ended up a as a fashion statement in another. Trade was

primarly the reason for this movement but also war was another. The oldest boots in the world come from a clay

impression originating in ancient Syria (Broby-Johansen, 1986). Cave painting in Spain dated between 12,000 and 15,000

BC, show a man in boots of skin and a woman in boots of fur. Persian funery jars of around 3000BC made in the shapes of

boots show the basic forms of ancient footwear. Boots were also found in the tomb of Khnumhotep (2140-1785 BC) in Egypt.

Perhaps the greatest paradox of boots is although they were essentially practical items of clothing they have always been

worn as fashion items for all, but the lowly peasant. Fine boots were important indicators of social status before the

sixteenth century and continued to be so up until beyond World War I. Over the centuries their style gradually became less

flamboyant but that did not reduce their importance. Sixteenth century boots, as worn by the gentlemen class, were

extravagantly decorative. More practical forms of boots began to develop especially for horse riding. The rigours of

horseback meant boots needed to be more rigid and protective. Improvements in transport meant by the early nineteenth

century boots became normal daytime footwear for all smart and fashionable men.Top boots and dress boots were made of

the finest leathers to be worn with the breeches tucked in. As the century continued these calf high boots were superseded

by the much less flamboyant boots and spats which signified the tempered Victorian male's approach to dressing for

vanity. Boots were never as flashy again until stage and film cowboys revived them in the 20s and 30s. The author attempts

to expand on these historical changes.

Mesopotanian Boot

The earliest people to wear boots were the ancient Mesopotamians. They wore boots made from kid leather with laced

closures. Between 3000-1400BC in Crete, both men and women wore calf high boots tied to their legs with thongs. The boot

had a strip of leather against the anterior aspect of the leg and secured below the knee with a band of leather. The top of

the foot was covered. (Bigelow, 1970 p37). People went barefoot in the house. Later the Cretans wore a puttee of leather.

These were thick soled boots woven in red, white or yellow. Leggings were worn just below the knee and used when hunting.

Women usually went barefoot but Amazon women wore boots very similar to those of men. In ancient Greece soldiers wore

high boots. They were fitted to the leg and foot snugly and in some cases left the toes exposed. The boots were laced up the

front of the leg ending at the top of the calf ended up at the top of the calf. Mycenean men wore decorated calf length boots

of pliable leather. By 5 BC young Greek men wore white boots made of stretched material pulled up to the top of the calf

and decorated with turned over tops in blue and green. The toe section was often highly decorated.

Etruscan Boots

The Etruscans were skillful tanners and made boots from animal skins and hides. A charateristic of their high and low boots

was the curved up toe. Historians believe his may have been caused by the way the boots were laced pulling the excess

upper towards the ankle. The body of the study boot covered the foot and the lower leg. The section that covered the foot

and the back of the leg was laced together with thongs (Bigelow, 1970 p46). Boots have been traced back to 650 BC in

ancient specimens of Etruscan footwear and were worn by priests whose duty it was to interpret supernatural signs.

Warriors went barefoot but had leather or metal greaves to protect their legs, or wore fur lined rawhide boots with

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slashed foreparts; some were coloured and had embroidered cuffs. Leg bandings, in bound puttee fashion, rose above the

ankles.

Roman Boots

According to Pattison and Cawthorne (1997) Romans wore boots to keep their feet warm

whilst living in colder climates. The military boots were hobnailed and depending on rank

determined how far up the leg the boot could go. Victorious soldiers when they returned to

Rome would have their copper hobnails removed and replaced with gold and silver ones.

Julius Caesar was reputed to have worn a pair of boots made from gold. Eventually boots

were worn by citizens. At first patricians wore muleas, which were red or violet coloured

boots These were served however for those patricians who had served as magistrates. Some

authors believe the muleas has been confused with calceus patricius, a style of shoe worn by

Roman senators. Citizens of Romans wore a boot made from hairy undressed hide similar to those worn by agricultural

workers. The calceus was a boot developed at the end of the Roman period. It was high boot laced on the inside of the leg

and fitted with a tongue. Many boot forms arose from the calceus. The muleus was similar to calceus, but laced with red

coloured thongs and only worn by emperors. The gallicae was a knee high closed boot, the espadrilles was a boot with

straps laced through eyelets, or sophisticated version of the Greek crepida. The calceus senatorum was a calf length boot

won by members of the senate The boot was slit on the inside and fitted with a tongue. Generally black until the late empire

when they were white with complex lacing. (Anderson Black J Garland M 1975, p29). The boot genrally had gold or silver

crescents at the front. The letter "C" was embossed and referred to the first 100 patricians or nobles established by right

of birth or priviliage. These boots or bushkins extended to the knee and were fastended with four tags or knots. Plebians

and vulgar people could wear boots too but they were restricted to the use of one or two knots.

Brodquin Boots

The brodequin was a light boot whose form derived from the cothurna and the caliga. Until the 16th century, brodequins

were light shoes worn inside boots and houseaux. The term also described an instep strap or stocking which young men

wore inside their boots for weapon practice. Only in the 18th century was the brodequin found as a sort of a boot.

Brodequins became fashionable footwear for ladies in the 19th century and were worn with fine linen or silk stockings.

Brodequins were worn at the grand for dancing. The name was also given to a short army boot. Liturgical brodequins were

richly ornamented silk or velvet stockings used for the consecration of bishops or the coronation of monarchs.

Boots of the Middle Ages

In the middle ages the term boot referred to a type of slipper and generally was fur lined e.g. night watch boot. This type of

footwear was often worn by the clergy. From the late 12-14th century a popular lightweight short boot was the estivaux

another, more tightly fitting boot was the stivali. In England these soft boots were worn high and wider on the leg. They

forced the wearer to adapt a bow legged gait and had the added disadvantage of allowing rain to pour into them. In France

the stivali was worn tight on the leg. The boot was available in different colours with black the most popular but red was

also worn. The name survives in German, steifel and the Italian, stivale. By the 14th century armed boots were reinforced

with steel rods and chain mail. The military style was copied and made up in leather boots and became popular in the 14th

and 15th centuries. These were worn by both men and women. At one time it was considered very fashionable to wear only

one boot. The boots circa 1340 were according to Ribeiro & Cumming (1989), laced across the top of the foot. Alternatively

ankle length boots were elaborately punched with small cruciform holes. Fashions for ankle length long pointed boots lasted

well into the 1400Ős and by 1460 hose were worn with seems done the back of the leg and the ankle length boots were

sometimes protected by pattens. Walking sticks became the vogue. By 1492 the toes of menŐs shoes became rounded.

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Boots of the Sixteenth Century

During the sixteenth century boots were worn by the military or part of hunting attire. As war

tore through Europe in the following centuries, boots again became the fashion. High boots

were popular in Spain where they seemed to originate from. Henry IV of France (1589-1610)

enjoyed wearing the best of leathers and relalised the craftmen in Franch were inferior to

elsewhere. He commissioned a tanner to study leather work in Hungary where the old trades

still existed. His influence made boots very fashionable in France and they were allowed to be

worn in salons as well as on the dance floor. The style of boots varied relating to whatever

purpose they were put to. Boots were distinctively men's fashion everybit as much as the

codpiece. According to Girotti (1997) to make the boots fit tightly around the leg, they were

first soaked in water. Once they dried on the leg it was very difficult for the man wearing the

boots to bend their knees. Dismounted horsemen walked with stiffened legs. This may have given rise to a distinctive

swaggering gait which at the time was considered very macho.

Boots of the Seventeenth Century

By the beginning seventeenth century boots had become fashionable for men and

were worn at the English court during Charles I reign. (1600-1649). Charles suffered

from osteomalacia (rickets) as a child and was feared would never walk without the

aid of calipers. The Royal shoemaker designed boots which has concealed brass

supports in the heel and ankle. Once an adult he was able to walk without the aid of

his supports but continued to wear boot for preference. Tightly fitting boots became

the fashion and were folded back into deep tops. The front flap of the boots provided

a handsome strap to fit spurs onto. Later soft boots with baggy creases and full tops

became the fashion at European courts. Ladies continued to wear slippers with

pointed toes and in some cases high heeled pumps. (Burnett, 1926). Cordoba was the

centre for leather craft in Europe and the term cordwainer refers to a man who has

derived his craft from the Spanish city of Cordoba. Craftsmen were sent to Cordoba to learn the secrets of the leather

trade and bring them back to France. Cordoban boots were soft and worn crumpled or with a kink. A large piece of leather

shapped like a butterfly was stitched across the instep to hold the golden or silver rowel spurs. A soulette was a strap

fastened under the foot, which also held the spur in position. Poor quality boots were made from cow hide which was

heavier but more durable. The lace edged boothose were worn inside the boot

and were made from linen. These protected the delicate silk stockings from

being soiled by the leather. From 1610 onwards boots were worn indoors,

sometimes with an overshoe. (After peace was ratified in the Treaty of

Westphilia in 1648, boots were no longer worn indoors.) Riding boots were worn

high with widely flared or funnel tops protecting the knee when riding. This part

of the boot could be turned down for town wear. Already in 1627 gentlemen

were wearing light coloured boots with red heels and the edges of the soles

were stained red. Under Louis XIII (1601-1643) a shorter, lighter model of boot

known as the Ladrine was worn. By 1630 a protective additional sole or golosh

made from thick leather or wood was used to keep the fine boots and shoes

from the dirt of the streets. Boots were only accepted for riding, hunting and

walking by this time. Restoration of the Stuarts to the English thrown (1660)

brought the heeled boot to England. Men wore boots with very long stockings

which flared at the top of the leg and caught the foot with a strap under the instep. These were worn over silk stockings.

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Boots were worn tight on the leg but the top could be turned over. The footwear was

made of soft leather.The Cavalier boot had a very wide top which could be turned down

for town wear, showing silk or coloured leather lining. The width of the leg had

increased and the boots were worn wide across the toes. Toes became square and this

fashion remained popular till the end of the century. Aristocracy preferred light, high

heeled shoes and boot but the working class wore more practical and cheaper shoes,

which were low heeled. Usually dark brown, with leather latchet ties, deep square toes

and closed sides. In 1660 the France of Louis XIV became the fashion capital and shoes

for men were preferred over boots. From 1660 onwards decorative frills, or cannons,

were worn below the knee and hence shoes became more popular. At the end of the

reign of Charles II (1630-85) the militarty still wore an old style heavy boot. This was

replaced by a light leather leggings covering the boot called houseaux. The heavy boot

was still used for riding. In 1663 the first seamless boot was made by a Gascon

shoemaker called Lestage. King William of Orange (1650-1702) introduced the jackboot,

which was of sturdy construction and worn high above the knee, quartered, and heeled with immense breadth for the toes.

Thigh high boots were fashionable for soldiers and horsemen, Worn tight on the calf they were ample enough to be folded

over in a buccaneer fashion above the knee. Sometimes covered in decoration with punched designs they covered the

whole leg and were held in place with garters or suspenders from the doublet. The above knee section was known as bucket

tops and were worn with leathers and spurs. The boot offered protective armour to the leg and is still worn by the

Housuehold Cavalry. Before the advent of gum boots the style of boot was worn by fishwermen. Thigh high boots were

originally worn by pirates and smugglers, who tucked contraband or "booty" into them. The practice gave rise to the term,

"bootlegging'.

Boots of the Eighteenth Century

During the eighteenth century boots had surpassed shoes as the fashionable footwear for men. They

became more refined and slimmed down in style. Worn with turned down tops, lined in brown, to

contrast with the black leather of the rest of the boot, the top boots were distinctly elegant. The style

was based on the boots worn by horse jockeys who partook in the newly fashionable sport of horse

racing (Baynes K , Baynes K, 1979). The black and brown boots worn to below the knee were for

outdoors. O'Keeffe, (1996) considered women would have less need to venture outdoors and hence

their shoes were more flimsy by comparison. Tans and pale shades were popular with the gentry.

Dandified young Englishmen became obsessed with all things foreign and were christened Macaronis by satirists. They used

to have iron heel clips fitted to draw attention to themselves as they walked through the streets. George Beau Brummell

(1790- 1840) epitomised the new age macho dresser and as a dandy was quite different to fops of the previous century.

Brummell had certain ideocynrcacies and was reputed to have his boots polished with champagne. Not only that he insisted

in having the soles of his boots polished at the same time as the uppers. The reason being he was concerned the edge of

the boots were not perfectly shined. Brummell sported the two most popular styles of the time. These were the English,

John Bull (or tall boot) and the Austrian, Hess boot. Hess boots took their name from the German state of Hesse, where

they were made. The hesse boot was knee high and cut on a V at the front. Often the boot had a decorative tassle. In time

the Wellington boot superceded the popularity of the hessian boot (also called Souvaroffs). This was a slim cut leather boot

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which was worn under narrow trousers. Napolean boots cut high in the front and worn to

the knees first appeared round about 1730. The design allowed the knee to bend as well

as offer protection to the joint when exposed during horseriding. It was common practice

to wear long woollen stockings under the knee high riding boots. The laced ankle boot we

know associate with modern militaria originated from the Blucher shoe which was based

on a boot worn by Prince of Wahlstadt, Gebhard Leberecht von Blucher, a Prussian field

Marshall. His popularity was second only to Wellington as a hero of the battle of Waterloo.

The blucher or derby was a high cut shoe with a tongue cut in one piece with the forepart and fastened with laces. Women's

boots were a modified version of men's footwear designed for equestrian persuit. However it did not escape the attention

of French writer and wit, Nicolas-Sebastien Chamfort (1741-1794), who wrote in Maxims's and Considerations of the common

habit for ladies to tip their man servents to help remove their tight boots. Chamfort was of course referring to flirtations

resulting from exposure of forbiden flesh. A common practice among the upper classes. In 1770 boots were introduced to

dandies who started to wear their boots to half calf. Splatter dashes were puttees or leggings that buttoned on the inside

of the leg and worn to protect the delicate silk hose during inclement weather. Jockey boots were introduced in 1780.

However the need to protect feet from the elements necessitated new materials be developed and during the 1790's patent

leather became available. Shoes and boots treated with the new process became a very popular fashion on both sides of

the Atlantic. By the end of the century young men wore the popular hussar bushkins which were short boots with a dip in

the front, mid tibia. French top boots with a turned over top were also fashionable. V-fronted tasselled hessian boots were

made from soft leather and proved popular with men.

Boots of the Nineteeth Century

The Napoleonic Wars dominated the early part of this century. Shoe makers first became adept at

making the military boots but as the war passed they soon adapted them for civilian wear. First

men then women took to wearing boots for everyday wear and this remained the vogue until the

end of the 1800's when shoes became popular again. Men's boots had high heels until the middle of

the nineteenth century when the design of coaches was improved and the development of railways

meant less need for horses. According to McDowell (1989) women's high heels were equally a

reflection of their mode of transport. When women travelled they went by coach or, during the

seventeenth century by cedan chair. In Versailles cedan chairs were carried into the public rooms

so lady's might alight on clean dry floors. The fight against dirt was everyone's concern until the

introduction of metalled roads. The slap sole was a fashionable extension added to high heeled

shoes and boots. Working on a similar principle to the Eskimo's snow shoe with a bar between the heel and forefoot to

increase the surface contact thus preventing the shoe from sinking into the mud. Nineteenth century Dandy's such as

Johnny Walker paid much attention to their appearance. Although there was less emphasis on ostentatious styles for men

by the beginning of the twentieth century.Mens' fashions had virtually become a uniform. This is especially true of shoes. By

1830 fashions for non working women included boots. There was a return of the heel and the boots were worn short to the

ankle, or just above. To give the appearance of daintiness, the boots were made on narrow lasts. The introduction of

heeless shoes brought an end to the straight shoe. Closely buttoned or tightly laced to the mid calf, the boot supported the

ankle, presumably to reduce risk of sprains. Ladies boots were made from silk, fabric or kid leather. A change of lacing

style to side lacing proved very popular and the ankle boots were called "Adelaides" after the Queen Consort of William IV.

The style highlighted the gentle contours of the female foot, presenting a vulnerable and delicate extension. Primarily the

boot was to encase the female foot and ankle from temptation but probably had the opposite effect. Bootmakers

embellished their wares with silk fabrics and metallic thread embroidery. Button closures were used instead of laces to

reveal shapely ankles. Cut outs in the leather were sometimes included to provide a playful view of colourful stockings.

These boots were called Barrettes Heels did make a return by the middle of the nineteenth century and the close fitting

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high button boots became the predominant fashion. Charles Goodyear's

discovery of vulcanised rubber enabled Sparkes-Hall, bootmaker to Queen

Victoria in 1837 to invented the elastic gusset boot. The advantage of

elasticated boots meant they could be easily removed and put on again which

appealed to busier and more demanding life style of Victorian women.

Although there were several teething problems by the late 1840's the fashion

began to catch on. This became a prominent style in the West until the onset

of World War One. The Balmoral boot (or Bal) was originally designed for

Prince Albert and consisted of a close fitting lace up boot, similar to those

worn by today's wrestlers. They could be front or side lacing and acted as a

galosh to protect the feet from the wet gorse. The upper section of the toe

box was treated with water proofing. Queen Victoria must have approved because she had several pairs made and wore

them regularly. Possibly because Prince Albert expressed a liking for the style because it had a slendering effect. Balmoral

boots became popular with both men and women. After the Royal family bought Balmoral in Scotland, the Queen took to

walking and this required sturdy footwear for women. This freedom reflected the growing movement for women to enter

the workforce. Well bred women could not be acknowledged to possess anything as base and potentially carnal as legs.

Indeed it was during the Victorian period that legs were referred to as lower limbs. Crinoline as a material may have looked

ridiculous but at the same time was very seductive. The steel hops that buoyed the skirt kept the material in a permanent

state of motion. The slightest pressure at one point raised it correspondingly at the opposite point. This often revealed a

titillating and tantalising glimpse of the forbidden flesh i.e. the female ankle. Partly worn in honour of Wellington (1769-

1852), the boot complemented the crinoline dresses and provided a foot corset enjoyed by men and understood by women.

The nineteenth century was dominated by dancing and the craze for public balls affected the dress and costume of the day.

Jane Austin's novels illustrate the importance of dances to nineteenth century social life. Fancy costume balls were all the

rage in America and women would create their own design

themes. Fashionable boots came in many forms including Opera boots

which were highly decorated footwear. These were popular with opera

goers and hence the name. Juliets were quilted boots worn by lady's

travelling in carriages. Once they arrived at their destination they

would change into other shoes more suited to the occasion. High lows

were first worn as fashionable boots in the early 1800s. Made from silk

uppers they laced to above the ankle and often were worn by brides.

Victorian children wore miniture adult shoes and gaiter boots were

popular. By the middle of the century mass production meant the cost

of boots became affordable to more people. No longer the a reliable

sign of status, the boot became a symbol of emerging equality not just between the sexes, but also among the social groups

(O'Keeffe, 1996). Further evidence of the merging new women were waterproofed boots designed to give women greater

mobility with freedom outdoors. During this century the workboot started to appear. John Lobb trained as a bootmaker in

London before moving to Australia to try his luck in the goldfields. He never found his fortune in gold but instead came up

with the brainwave of making hollow heeled boots for prospectors to hide their gold. The idea caught on and John Lobb set

himself up in business in Sydney in 1858. When the Great Exhibition came along in 1862 he sent a pair of his boots along and

won a gold medal for their quality. Twelve months later he sent a pair of his riding boots to the Prince of Wales and was

awarded a Royal Warrant. He returned to London and established a business " John Lobb, Bootmaker" which continues to

trade as the world's most famous bespoke shoemaking establishment. Boots for women became more elaborate from

1850s onwards partly due to the introduction of machinery. Elasticised boots were worn for daytime wear where at nigh

leather slippers was preferred for formal wear. MenŐs slippers were usually black and trimmed with black flat bows or

black ribbon rosettes. (Bigelow, 1970,) Until 1820 women generally wore soft flat heeled slippers for all occasions but after

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that day shoes or ankle boots were widely favoured. (Anderson Black J Garland M, 1975,) In 1890 the low shoe or laced

oxford was introduced. These were often worn with gaiters in colder weather or for sporting occasions. Toe shaped

changed over this period otherwise shoes and boots styles remain unchanged. 1870 was square toe fashion 1880 rounded

and 1890 growing more pointed. In 1890 rubber soled shoes were introduced. (Bigelow, 1970, )

Boots of the Twentieth Century

The introduction of footwear to the masses coincided with mechanised production at the turn of this

century. By 1889 the first heel factory was opened in the US. As hemlines began to raise, legs, ankles and

feet took on greater importance. As the song went "a glimpse of stocking was something shocking", so

fashion pundits at the time seldom missed the opportunity to make this part of the female anatomy full of

promise. The foot and shoe have always lent themselves to this mascarade. The idea of long legs has an

appeal to both sexes. Considered to enhanced body contours, shoes and boots incorporated high heels.

According to Steele (1985) Victorian fashion expressed neither the social and sexual repression of women nor male

perceptions of them as primarily sexual beings. Victorian fashion revolved around an ideal of femanine beauty in which

eroticism played an important part. Dress appropriate for a social gathering of peers was more overtly erotic than those

worn on the street. Two tone high boots buttoned at the side were fashionable for both men and women (spats). Whilst the

upper class women wore boots made from glace kid, working women wore lace up ankle boots made from leather. A

combination of a patent leather shoe with a cloth legging was introduced at this time. Brocade, velvet and antelope skin

were worn in boots made for special occassions. Boots that fastened with botton were fashionable up until 1925. An

essential accessory for women who wore these was a button hook. Popularity for Balmoral boots continued and none other

than Winston Churchill wore them over many years. He was photographed wearing both designs i.e. cloth and leather

leggings. Charles Chaplin favoured patent leather bals with beige cloth legs. The two tone effect was developed from the

turn of the century and by the 1930s the combination of shoe and legging became spats. The legging could be removed and

was easier to clean than the original bals. By 1921 women were wearing straight topped, knee high, Russian boots with

pointed toes and a Louis heel. A style similar to the Wellington but without the buttons. The boot originally laced up the side

but was later replaced with a zipper (invented, 1891). Dunlop developed another version for the fashion market, these were

made from rubber and came in a brown colour. The boots had pointed toes and a cuban heel. Wellingtons or wellies as they

are better known had a short fashion life and were soon relegated to garden accessories.

The sports boot and forerunner to athletic footwear has its ancestry in the

development of the blutcher army boot and came from conscription for war.

Boots took less and less fashion attention after the 1930s and were often

associated with oppression. Wars and depression meant greater concerntration

was given over to utility and hard wearing properties. During the depression RM

Williams designed and made a elastic sided boot for mounted stockmen working

in the outback (1932). The qualities of water resistance, comfort and toughness

ensured the footwear became popular with country people and now are exported all over the world. Williams was assisted

in his endoevour by Dollar Mick a travelling companion. Made from one piece leather the upper had no seems to burst when

worn hard against the saddle syrrips. At first heels were hand made with a series of lifts but nowadays they are premade

and nailed to the sole by machine. In the late fifties boots began to appear in mainstream fashion. Rediscoverd by the youth

of the day engineer boots took on a fashionable veneer. First came the fashionable canvas boot associated with the popular

game of baseball in the US. Next the dessert boot which was to spring board into Brothel Creepers, then, the sixties chukka

boots. Both traditional leathers and new look plastic were used to add spectacle to the tight fitting footwear.

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The Engineer's boot or Biker's boot was used by motorcyclists of the fifties to

protected their legs from the heat of the engine. They also gave a mechanical

advantage to the biker when holding on to the pedals not to mention a buchaneer

quality. The chuckka boot were hybrids of dessert boots and were worn by scooter,

mad Mods. The ankle protection prevented the Mods from the heat of the engine. Made

from suede they wear prone to mark easily intil the invention of Hush Puppies which

were treated synthetically. The cuban heeled, Chelsea boot or recylced elasticated

boots was rediscovered and became fashionable with young men, in the sixties. These

were worn with pointed toes, round toes or chisle toes. With the introduction of the

mini in the 60's women's legs were more exposed and fashion designers created ankle and knee length boots to accentuate

the new look. Thigh high boots enjoyed a degree of popularity too. By coincidence the boots often captured kinks or folds

and were nicknamed as "kinky boots".The youth of the decade's preoccupation with promiscuity, meant instant success for

these "go go boots'. In the seventies the US oil recession meant expensive fashion boots fell from fashion. Doc Marten

boots meantime became popular with both sexes and were associated with the alternative Punk movement. DMs comercial

success in the early seventies combined with increased competition and the availablitity of cheaper Taiwanese and Korean

products convinced the Swartz brothers (US) to manufacture under the Timberland label. The company was launched in

1975. The relaxed all American male image portrayed by the rugged footwear was an instant success with the young

Americans. More importantly according to Cattison and Patterson (1997) this was the

first time since cowboy boots that a manufactured style was sold to US youth. Their

popularity spread throughout the Europe and the rest of the world. Like cowboy boots,

Timberland boots, have become part of the mythology support by clever marketing. The

succes of Timberland boots draws a clear point that only in the later part of the

twentieth century have men been targeted. This had been the domain of women's fashion.

Nostalgia for earlier pioneering days combined with a rise in the Green Movement, meant

yuppies could wear these icons on their feet. The four wheeled drive boots of suburbia had arrived. The platform boot was

popular with the Glam rockers of the seventies. Platform soles gave the height challenged an advantage they would

otherwise not have had. Abba took the new platform boots to knee and thigh length extremes. Made in all sorts of material

synthetic and natural the fashion passed with the death of disco. However it remained popular as drag sartoria only to re-

appear more recently in the ninties with "girl power".

Cowboy Boots

The origins of the Cowboy Boot are well researched and started life as

riding boots for the marauding Mongol tribesmen. Horsemen wore red

wooden heels and conquered all before them. The fashion caught on and

was popular for centuries among nobility and horse riders. Louis XIV

wore only red heels as a tribute to Gengus Khan and banned all other

men in his court from sporting the red heel. English Cavaliers took the

style to extraordinary lengths wearing thigh high riding boots with

cuban heels. Once defeated by Cromwell, the Cavalier Stuarts emigrated

in their droves to the New World. They took with them their boots and

many settled in the southern states forming the plantation class. After

the civil war many southerners migrated west to Texas taking with them

their noble footwear. Standard cavalry issue during the American Civil

War was the Wellington Boot. In 1815 Arthur Wellsley, First Duke of Wellington, defeated Napoleon at Waterloo. The popular

victor became an national icon and both men and women emulated his sartorial style of footwear. The modern Wellington

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had a low cut heel which was calf high and not thigh high. This made them easier to mass produce. Unfortunately during the

American Civil War (1861-1865) unscrupulous contractors supplied below par footwear and many of the cavalry boots were

mass produced using reinforced cardboard. Climatic conditions took their tool and the soldiers suffered deep cuts to their

feet. A Chiropodist General to the US cavalry was appointed at this time. The English language was enriched with the word

shoddy which described, manufacturers willing to compromise for profit. Many experts believe the final victory was in no

small part due to the superior footwear of the Union army. Right and left boots were introduced at this time but were most

unpopular and it took another half a century before the masses were introduced to such luxuries. By the end of the war the

federal government had half a million pairs of boots surplus to requirements. Systematically then after troops stationed on

the frontier were supplied with shoddy boots. Shoe historians believe the foundation of the cowboy boot trade in the

frontier was based on the simple necessity for civilian bookmakers to replace defective military footwear. Low heeled, high

topped boots made in hard, black leather called kip were often made by German immigrants. The bootmakers based their

designs on Northern European riding boots. The most popular was the Coffeyville Boot from Coffeyville, Kansas. It combined

the various US Cavalry styles and the original British leather, Wellington boot. Billy the Kid (1859-1881) was reputed to wear

a style of boots based on the Austrian Boot. During the Indian wars in the west (circa 1865) the US Government issued new

boots to the soldiers that used brass tacks to hold the leather soles of the boots on. As the soles were worn down the

tracks would protrude through the bottom into the soldiers feet. The Government put together a committee to study the

problem and suggested a solution. Their solution was to issue each soldier with a metal file to file down the points of the

tacks as they pushed through the boot sole. High heeled boots (4"), called saddle dandies, were popular by 1860s. The back

of the heel sloped gently until the sole was no bigger than a quarter. Drover, Stovepipe and cattleman models were popular

the leg of the boots were at least 14 inches and many boots were thigh high. By the 1880's the cowboy boot was beginning

to emerge as a distinctive style. Starting life as a dress Wellington or full Wellington, the fashion merged with the hard

wearing lace up boot (or packer), worn by drovers. Other influences included the Mexican riding boot called vaquero. Early

cowboy boots had no ornamentation and for control in the saddle, the shoe portion was made so tight that walking was

difficult and painful. Originally both boots were made on the same last which necessitated the wearer

having to break them in. Later the three piece military boot was incorporated and worn by

Hollywood's Cowboys. In 1903 the first embroidered toe wrinkles started to appear Cut out leather

designs often in a star pattern were sometimes overlaid around the collars of the boot tops. Tejas (or

Napoleon style boots) with their peacock flair and ostentatious inlays were worn by Hollywood

megastars like Tex Ritter and Tom Mix during the 20's and 30's. At first films were made in the

Eastern States and the costumes were based on exaggerated clothing illustrated in cheap novels and

comics. By the time the industry moved to California in 1914 and employed real cowboys, their clothes were dull compared

to the illusion. Instead actors wore highly decorated boots outside their trousers. In 1923 boots were available in the US,

made from kangaroo skins. It is therefore somewhat surprising to think, todays cowboy boots are really fantasy footwear

fabricated by Hollywood and have little to do with the Wild West. The Italian shoe designer, Salvatore Ferragamo made boots

for one of Cecil B de Mille's films. de Mille was so impressed he said " The West would have been conquered earlier, if they

had boots like these." The irony is of course he was probably quite correct. The style caught on however and thanks to

Hollywood became popular across the world. Designs became more colourful and ornate and fashion designed flocked to

add to the range of boots available to the fashion following throngs. The exotic cowboy boot remained popular and peaked in

the mid-fifties. In 1954, the design of cowboy boots changed to accommodate the growing sport of Roping. At rodeos

competitors were required to bale off their mounts, then chase and tackle a strong calf. A lower heel and rounded toe was

preferred. This style soon caught on with the audience and became the vogue. The 60s brought an oil boom to the oil states

which led to a subsequent economic upswing. Conservative Texans were more likely to drive a Cadillac than ride mustangs

and so therefore influenced the fashion for lower heeled boots. By the 70's when urban cowboys took to the dance floor the

common work boot all but vanished. The new boots were less hardwiring and more high fashion. Today's styles cater for

both with the traditional high heel and pointed toes for the posers and a lower heel, rounder toed boot with comfortable

soles and laces for the real cowboy. The appeal of the fashion cowboy boot in not hard to fathom and it is an excuse for

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men to share the thrill of standing on elevated footwear. The change in body mass this has makes for a more attractively

shaped derriere and hence the natural development of the jeans. Standing taller helps to give the impression of power and

dominance and presence and presentation were all in the Hollywood that made the style fashionable. The footwear can be

secreted into everyday wear and therefore undetected to the undecerning eye. On average a handmade fashion boot will

take 45 hours of loving labour and be every bit as a creation as a designer cocktail dress. The admiring glances say it all

and come from the most unexpected quarter. Texas Governor, George W Bush was sporting an elegant pair made from

black eelskin at a recent White house reception. The design of which includes a state seal, Texas flag and his initials. The

function was attended by Queen Elizabeth and remarked on the fabulous footwear giving the potential presidential

candidate a knowing wink. Many US presidents have worn cowboy boots. In 1948 Harry Trueman ordered his form Tony

Lama and the style was called "El Presidente" This fashion was followed by Dwight Eisenhower, Lyndon B Johnson, Jimmy

Carter, Ronald Reagan and Bill Clinton. The Lucchese Company of Texas in 1940's produced 48 pairs of boots to symbolise

each of the states, featuring inlays of the states house and state flower, bird and flag. Charlie Dunn one of Texas's most

famous makers had produced in 1914 a pair of boots trimmed with gold and inlaid with diamonds and rubies for a gambler.

More information about the cowboy boot can be found at Jennifer June's Tribute to Cowboy Boots

Military Boots

For the majority of the world's population for most of history the only time they have had shoes was as

armour in battle with the hostile climates and terrains that men had to overcome in order to survive.

When two tribes go to war, how many people count the cost of keeping their warriors in shoes. In the

Great War it is estimated some 2,500,000 pairs of shoes were made for the Allied troops. Laid end to

end this would mean the shoes would cover the complete coastline of Western Australia . An 380,000

cattled required to be slaughtered to provide the equivalent of 17.5 million square feet of leather or 400

acres. The soul leather alone would weigh 4,000 tons; metal for nails would be 1,150 tons; with 55 tons

of thread; and 78,000,000 eyelets. War has always meant big business to the shoe and textile industries. Sadly this has not

always brought the best from friendly suppliers and it is estimated human greed can account for almost as many

casualties as enemy fire in modern warfare. When soldiers boots are poor quality for the conditions of combat then their

fighting ability is undermined. During the American Civil War, for example, the US cavalry were demoralised because of

shoddy workmanship. Supplied with sub-standard cardboard, cowboy boots, their feet and legs were cut to ribbons. During

the Second World War footwear supplies to the front were fatally delayed because vital supplies were misappropriated by

Black Marketeers. It was quite common to find non-combat units wearing superior footwear intended for their colleagues

at the front. Trenchfoot was first described in the Great War and was attributed to the feet being immersed in very cold

mud for long periods of time. The forces footwear was no match for the atrocious

conditions of the trenches. In the Second World War, trenchfoot was responsible

for putting more Allied Forces out of action than the German 88 (artillery). In

December 1944, northern Europe's witnessed it's coldest winter during which

45,000 men - the equivalent of three full infantry divisions, were pulled out of the

front line because of trenchfoot. Three days before the Battle of the Bulge began

so great were the casualties to trenchfoot, men unable to walk were carried from

sheltered pillbox positions at night to firing positions in the day time. Behind the US Lines it was decreed any soldier

suffering trenchfoot would be tried for court martial. Senior officers were suspicious some soldiers were hoping to avoid

combat by actively encouraging symptoms of trenchfoot. One reason why trenchfoot was so common was soldiers slept

with their boots on. During engagement they were recommended to dry and warm their feet as best they could, and sleep

with their boots off. This was often impractical and most ignored the directive. Conditions in the Falklands War were

extreme. The British soldiers were severely challenged by their inferior boots. The direct molded sole failed to keep their

feet dry and water poured through the laceholes. The impermeable sole provided a perfect reservoir and feet was

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immersed in cold water for long periods. Trenchfoot was commonplace and a major concern to the assault forces. The

Argentine boot, on the other hand, was superior in every way and provided ideal protection to the elements, hence it

became a valued prize of war. With so much reliance put on the military foot, you might think, armed forcces would invest

heavily in podiatrists, not so, and only the North American services have podiatrists within their ranks. Currently there are

72 to service 1.6 million personnel. The origins of hob naild boots can be traced back to Roman times. By having nails on the

sole of the sandal the lifespan of footwear could be extended. .The reason the Britsh Army supplier their foot soldiers with

hob nailed boots was to save money. This type of footgear flowed through to working boots. The style of army boot is based

on the Blutcher or Derby.

Beatle Boots

Shoes took on a boot style and incorporated cuban heels which were a style preferred by

the Beatles on their return from Hamburg. Needless to say the fashion became ubiquitous

before the toes began to widen and the Chelsea boot or chisel toe became vogue. A point of

interest the Beatle Boot was less macho and resembled the style of boot favoured by

Victorian ladies. Whilst not effeminate it was distinctly a softer less aggressive style that

brothel creepers and winkle pickers. The boots often incorporated a French seem or central

stitch running from ankle to toe on the upper. In the convention of symbols this referred to female genitalia rather the

phallic of the long toes or winklepicker shoes.

Bovver Boots

Dr Klause Maertens of Munich invented his air condition soles in 1945. The

inspiration came from a personal injury he experienced when skiing and he wanted

to wear a comfortable shoe. He started to produce the air sole in 1947 but its

popularity took until 1960 to peak. The once uklta conservative Dr Maertens shoes

became the trademark of urban youth excited by violence in Doc Martens. Urban

warriors are not the invention of the Eighties but were in evidence much earlier on

in history. Bootboys were common place in the seventeenth century and used to

terrorises the highways of the time. Doc Martens were also the first cross over

shoes of the twentieth century and became a unisex fashion. In the history of

modern footwear unisex styles are usually short lived and often occur at a time of

depression or down turn in economy. The Pope has ordered several pairs of Doc

Martens. When Bill Griggs pursuaded the German parent company to let him

manufacture workmans protective boots with the air cushioned sole at his factory

in Northampton in the 1960's litle did he know what would be the outcome. DM has

become the uniform of youth harnessing the aggresion of the storm tropper into the

macho urban dwellers. British skinheads made it their own in the seventies and

used the DM as Bovver Boots with which to shakle the complacency of the

bourgeoisie. This failed because the style was readily adopted by all youths and

became a unisex phenomenon. The effect of ambivalence presents the ultimate paradox of style, worn by women and gays

the shos at one level project the macho aggresiveness which belies the real feelings of the wearer. It is indicative of the

confusion of roles and the blurring of distinctions that a boot with such a down to earth origins. The original eight lacing

boot with distinctive yellow stitches has remained the most unique boot of all time. With its patented sole and trends no

competitor has ever atempted to copy its world famous features.

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Discussion

Some historians believe boots represent the greatest division in wealth and power within our society. Historically men's

boots signify strength and affluence and can be traced from early civilisations to the present day. The style and type of

footwear retains a special aura connected with the outdoors. Boots have the closest association with war compared to

other footwear and their design still presents many challenges to the armed forces. Boots are the only footwear to have

reached the moon yet paradoxically for those who have walked on the planet, their boots, were jetisened to float forever in

space as a precautionary measure. In the century the working boot has had many adaptions including mainstream sport

and recreation. Combined with the invention of new synthetic polymers today's boots are truely of the space age.

Bibliography

1. Anon Beau Brummell Edinburgh Magazine June 1844 edited by Broadwater-Chen S Moonstone Research and

Publications

2. Baynes K Baynes K 1979 The shoe show: British shoes since 1790 Crafts Council

3. Bigelow MS 1970 Fashion in history apparel in the western world Minneapolis: Burgess Publishing Co

4. Broby-Johansen R 1968 Body and clothes: an illustrated history of costume London: Faber and Faber

5. Boucher F 1988 A history of costume in the west London: Thames & Hudson

6. Burnett EK 1926 Romantic chapters in the history of the shoe: an extravaganza The Chiropodist 204-210.

7. Cassin-Scott J 1997 The illustrated encylopaedia of costume and fashion from 1066 to the present London: Studio

Vista

8. Girotti E 1997 Footwear: la calzatura San francisco: Chronicle Books

9. McDowell C (ed) 1998 Fashion: the Pimlico companion to fashion London: Pimlico

10. Mitchell L 1997 Stepping out: three centuries of shoes Sydney: Powerhouse Publishing

11. O'Keeffe L 1996 Shoes: a celebration of pumps, sandals, slippers and more New York: Workman Publishing

Company

12. Pattison A & Cawthorne N 1997 A century of shoes: icons of style in the 20th century NSW : Universal

International

13. Ribeiro A & Cumming V 1989 The visual history of costume London: BT Batsford Ltd

14. Takamura Z 1997 Roots of street style Tokyo: Graphic ShaRoots

The author would like to acknowledge the sources of pictures which came from a variety of sources, including:

1. Baynes K Baynes K 1979 The shoe show: British shoes since 1790 Crafts Council

2. O'Keeffe L 1996 Shoes: a celebration of pumps, sandals & slippers New York: Workman Publishing

3. Pattison A Cawthorn 1997 A century of shoes: icons of style in the 20th century NSW: Universal International

4. The history of costume published by Braun & Schneider (circa.1861-1880)

If I have unwittingly ommitted any other source, I do apologise and will rectify as soon as the matter is brought to my

attention.

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Footnote

The author has no association with shoe manufacturers or retailers. The information presented here has been

researched and collated using, in good faith and wherever possible, refereed materials. Where triangulation was not

possible, information was taken at face value and unless stated otherwise represents the opinions of the author and not

Curtin University of Technology.