the hidden places of cornwall

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Published by:

Travel Publishing Ltd

Airport Business Centre, 10 Thornbury Road,

Estover, Plymouth PL6 7PP

ISBN13 9781907462047

© Travel Publishing Ltd

First Published: 1989 Second Edition: 1992

Third Edition: 1996 Fourth Edition: 1998

Fifth Edition: 2000 Sixth Edition: 2003

Seventh Edition: 2005 Eighth Edition: 2007

Ninth Edition: 2009 Tenth Edition: 2011

Please Note:

All advertisements in this publication have been accepted in

good faith by Travel Publishing.

All information is included by the publishers in good faith and

is believed to be correct at the time of going to press. No

responsibility can be accepted for errors.

Editors: Hilary Weston and Jackie Staddon

Cover Photo: East Porthleven Beach.

© International Photobank / Alamy

Text Photos: See page 185

This book is sold subject to the condition that it shall not by

way of trade or otherwise be lent, re-sold, hired out, or

otherwise circulated without the publisher’s prior consent in

any form of binding or cover other than that which it is

published and without similar condition including this

condition being imposed on the subsequent purchase.

THE HIDDEN PLACES OF

CORNWALL

Edited By

Hilary Weston and Jackie Staddon

© Travel Publishing Ltd.

FOREWORDThis is the 10th edition of the Hidden Places of Cornwall but it is also the first Hidden Places

title to be published simultaneously in printed form and as an e-book which reflects the

significant growth in the demand for travel information in digital form.

The free-to-download digital edition is reproduced in full colour and reflects many of the changes

made to the printed version with an attractive new cover and redesigned page layouts. The

changes will significantly improve the usefulness, accessibility and appeal of the guide.

Editorially, the new style continues Travel Publishing’s commitment to exploring the more

interesting, unusual or unique places of interest in Cornwall. In this respect we would like to

thank the Tourist Information Centres who helped us update the editorial content of the book.

As an e-book of course readers are able to quickly browse the guide on a page-by-page basis,

search for, and locate places of interest using the index and find out more information on our

advertisers by clicking on their website or email address. In addition, any part of the guide can be

printed off for readers who want information on specific places.

Cornwall has been described as “an isolated beauty that contains some of the most dramatic and

spectacular scenery in the country”. It is surrounded by rugged coastlines and has often been

referred to as the ‘English Riviera’ encompassing pretty fishing ports, secluded scenic villages,

narrow winding lanes and strong, romantic seafaring traditions. This is a land of strong Celtic

heritage and ancestry, a place that is dotted with monuments such as crosses, holy wells and

prehistoric sites and where legends of old still hold their romance amongst the Cornish people.

The Hidden Places of Cornwall contains a wealth of information on the history, culture and the

hundreds of interesting places to be found within the county. But it also promotes the more

secluded and little known visitor attractions and advertises places to stay, eat and drink, many of

which are easy to miss unless you know exactly where you are going. These are cross-referenced

to more detailed information contained in a separate, easy-to-use section to the rear of the book.

This section is also available as a free supplement from the local Tourist Information Offices.

We include hotels, bed & breakfasts, restaurants, pubs, bars, teashops and cafes as well as

historic houses, museums, gardens and many other attractions throughout the area - all of which

are comprehensively indexed. Many places are accompanied by an attractive photograph and are

easily located by using the map at the beginning of each chapter. We do not award merit marks or

rankings but concentrate on describing the more interesting, unusual or unique features of each

place with the aim of making the reader’s stay in the local area an enjoyable and stimulating

experience.

Whether you are travelling around Cornwall on business or for pleasure we do hope that you enjoy

reading and using this book. We are always interested in what readers think of places covered (or

not covered) in our guides so please do not hesitate to give us your considered comments. We also

welcome any general comments which will help us improve the guides themselves. Finally if you

are planning to visit any other corner of the British Isles we would like to refer you to the list of

other Hidden Places titles to be found to the rear of the book and to the Travel Publishing

website (see below).

Travel Publishing

Did you know that you can also search our website for details of thousands of places

to see, stay, eat or drink throughout Britain and Ireland? Our site has become

increasingly popular and now receives hundreds of thousands of visits. Try it!

website: www.findsomewhere.co.uk

CONTENTS

4 Foreword

6 Regional Map

GEOGRAPHICAL AREAS:

8 Cornwall

ADVERTISEMENTS:

118 Cornwall Advertisements

INDEXES AND LISTS:

183 List of Tourist Information Centres

185 Image Copyright Holders

186 Order Forms

187 Index of Towns, Villages and Places of Interest

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LOCATION MAP

1 The Beach At Bude, Bude pg 9, 119

2 West Point Bed & Breakfast, Morwenstow pg 12, 119

3 Bullers Arms Hotel, Marhamchurch pg 14, 120

4 Penpethy Holiday Cottages, Penpethy pg 15, 121

6 Hentervene Holiday Park,

Crackington Haven pg 18, 122

7 The White Horse Inn, Launceston pg 21, 123

13 Sheviock Barton Bed & Breakfast,

Sheviock pg 34, 127

15 Wringford Down, Forder pg 36, 129

16 Trenethick Farmhouse Bed & Breakfast,

Trerulefoot pg 37, 130

17 Hay Lake Farm, Landrake pg 37, 129

20 Tom Sawyers Tavern, Hannafore pg 39, 132

21 Polraen Country House, Sandplace pg 39, 133

22 Windermere House, St Martins pg 39, 133

23 Old Lanwarnick, Duloe pg 39, 134

Accommodation 24 Cornish Quay Holidays, Liskeard pg 41, 135

26 Bridge On Wool, Wadebridge pg 42, 137

28 The Cornish Arms, Pendoggett pg 46, 139

29 The London Inn, Padstow pg 46, 140

30 The Golden Lion Pub, Padstow pg 46, 141

33 The Falcon Inn, St Mawgan pg 54, 143

37 St Agnes Hotel, St Agnes pg 58, 146

38 Little Trevellas Farm, Trevellas pg 60, 147

39 Fowey Harbour Cottages, Fowey pg 63, 147

42 Rooms at Polgassick, Polgassick pg 68, 148

44 Collon Barton, Lerryn pg 69, 149

45 The White Pyramid, Trewoon pg 70, 150

55 The Old Quay Inn, Devoran pg 81, 157

56 Tregenna Guest House, Falmouth pg 82, 159

61 Portreath Arms, Portreath pg 85, 162

64 Carwinion House, Mawnan Smith pg 88, 163

67 The Five Pilchards Inn, Porthallow pg 94, 165

68 The Haven Bed & Breakfast, Ruan Minor pg 95, 168

69 The Top House Inn, The Lizard pg 96, 167

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Food & Drink

Places of Interest

Accommodation

70 Colvennor Farmhouse B & B, Cury pg 97, 168

72 Kota Restaurant & Rooms, Porthleven pg 98, 169

74 abode Bed & Breakfast, St Ives pg 100, 171

75 Anchorage Bed & Breakfast, St Ives pg 101, 172

76 Blue Hayes Private Hotel, St Ives pg 101, 173

78 Mount Haven Hotel & Restaurant,

Marazion pg 105, 174

84 Number Nine, Penzance pg 108, 178

86 The Cornish Range Restaurant With Rooms,

Mousehole pg 110, 180

3 Bullers Arms Hotel, Marhamchurch pg 14, 120

7 The White Horse Inn, Launceston pg 21, 123

8 Jamaica Inn and Museums, Bolventor pg 23, 122

9 The Weavers, Bodmin pg 27, 124

10 Bodmin & Wenford Railway, Bodmin pg 27, 125

11 Penlan Eating House, Fourwinds pg 29, 126

14 St John Inn, St John pg 34, 128

18 Kelly’s of Looe, Looe pg 38, 131

19 Daisy’s Cafe, Looe pg 38, 132

20 Tom Sawyers Tavern, Hannafore pg 39, 132

21 Polraen Country House, Sandplace pg 39, 133

25 The Highwayman, Dobwalls pg 41, 136

26 Bridge On Wool, Wadebridge pg 42, 137

27 Bluetomato, Rock pg 43, 138

28 The Cornish Arms, Pendoggett pg 46, 139

29 The London Inn, Padstow pg 46, 140

30 The Golden Lion Pub, Padstow pg 46, 141

31 The Olive Tree, St Merryn pg 50, 142

33 The Falcon Inn, St Mawgan pg 54, 143

34 Lappa Valley Steam Railway,

St Newlyn East pg 57, 143

35 The Smugglers Den, Trebellan pg 57, 144

36 The Bowgie Inn, West Pentire pg 58, 145

37 St Agnes Hotel, St Agnes pg 58, 146

45 The White Pyramid, Trewoon pg 70, 150

46 The Kings Arms, Luxulyan pg 71, 150

47 The Shipwreck and Heritage Centre,

Charlestown pg 72, 151

49 Gravy boesti, Truro pg 75, 152

50 The Heron Inn, Malpas pg 76, 153

51 The Kings Arms, Tregony pg 77, 154

52 The Roseland Inn, Philleigh pg 78, 155

53 The Royal Standard, Gerrans pg 79, 156

54 Halwyn’s Tea Gardens, Old Kea pg 80, 158

55 The Old Quay Inn, Devoran pg 81, 157

56 Castle Beach Cafe, Falmouth pg 82, 159

57 Finn M’Couls, Falmouth pg 82, 158

58 Pea Souk, Falmouth pg 82, 160

60 Miss Peapods, Penryn pg 83, 161

61 Portreath Arms, Portreath pg 85, 162

62 The Melting Pot ‘Krowji’, Redruth pg 87, 163

63 The Brea Inn, Higher Brea pg 87, 164

65 Trevarno Estate and Gardens, Trevarno pg 91, 165

66 The Gweek Inn, Gweek pg 91, 166

67 The Five Pilchards Inn, Porthallow pg 94, 165

69 The Top House Inn, The Lizard pg 96, 167

72 Kota Restaurant & Rooms, Porthleven pg 98, 169

73 Cafe Mundo Bar, St Ives pg 100, 170

77 Angarrack Inn, Angarrack pg 104, 174

78 Mount Haven Hotel & Restaurant,

Marazion pg 105, 174

79 The White Hart, Churchtown pg 105, 175

80 Wayside Folk Museum, Zennor pg 106, 175

81 Wave’s Cafe Bar, Penzance pg 108, 176

82 Blue Bay Cafe, Penzance pg 108, 177

83 The Honey Pot, Penzance pg 108, 178

85 Country Cousins Cafe, Penzance pg 108, 179

86 The Cornish Range Restaurant With Rooms,

Mousehole pg 110, 180

87 Jessie’s Dairy, Mousehole pg 110, 179

88 The Cook Book, St Just pg 115, 181

89 Trewellard Arms, Trewellard pg 116, 182



41 Bellamama Deli, Lostwithiel pg 68, 148

43 The Parade, Lostwithiel pg 68, 149



48 Atishoo Designs, Charlestown pg 72, 151


71 Halzephron Herb Farm, Porthleven pg 98, 168


88 The Cook Book, St Just pg 115, 181

5 Museum of Witchcraft, Boscastle pg 17, 121

8 Jamaica Inn and Museums, Bolventor pg 23, 122

10 Bodmin & Wenford Railway, Bodmin pg 27, 125

12 Cotehele House, St Dominick pg 33, 127

32 Blue Reef Aquarium, Newquay pg 51, 142



40 Restormel Castle, Lostwithiel pg 68, 148



59 National Maritime Museum, Falmouth pg 82, 160


71 Halzephron Herb Farm, Porthleven pg 98, 168


Shopping

Food & Drink

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“I like Cornwall very much. It is not

England,” wrote DH Lawrence. That was

more than 80 years ago, but the ancient

Duchy of Cornwall remains stubbornly distinct

from the rest of England, not just in its

dramatic and spectacular scenery, but in its

strong Celtic heritage. The landscape is

dotted with ancient monuments, crosses and

holy wells, and ancient legends – especially

those relating to King Arthur and the Knights

of the Round Table – appear to have been

hot-wired into the Cornish psyche.

Cornish people have been recognised as a

separate identity by the Commission for Racial

Equality and they have their own distinctive

and attractive dialect. According to the

Cornish Language Board, around 2600 people

still speak Kernuack, the original language of

the peninsula. A firm in Helston occasionally

publishes books in the ancient language and

Kernuack has been recognised as a living

language by the European Commission.

Elements of Kernuack still survive in the

names of Cornish places and people – as Sir

Walter Scott put it: “By Tre-, Pol- and Pen- ,

You shall know all true Cornishmen.”

One simple fact about the county helps to

explain its distinct character. Wherever you

are in Cornwall, you are never more than 20

miles from the sea. Maritime trade started

early here – in the days of

King Solomon, the Cornish

people were already trading

tin with the Phoenicians.

Cornish eyes, it seems, were

always turned seawards

rather than inland, and the

people’s cultural affinity was

with the Celtic diaspora of

Ireland and Brittany rather

than their mainland

neighbours.

Added to this cultural

separation was the county’s

physical distance from major

centres of population. Even

today, Cornwall’s population

CORNWALLof around 500,000 is less than that of the city

of Bristol. There’s not a single mile of

motorway within its boundaries and long

stretches of the main through route, the A30

from Penzance to London, are still single

carriageway.

It was this isolation – and the luminous

light of the area – that attracted major

artists to the little seaside resort of St Ives,

which now boasts a world-class art gallery in

the Tate St Ives. More recently, an abandoned

china clay pit has been transformed into what

has been described as the Eighth Wonder of

the World, the inspired – and phenomenally

successful – Eden Project, whose enormous

bio-spheres celebrate the complex

relationship between plants, people and

resources.

Elsewhere, the county boasts the third

largest natural harbour in the world,

Falmouth; acres of glorious gardens such as

the Lost Gardens of Heligan; King Arthur’s

legendary fortress at Tintagel, and other

medieval castles at St Mawes, Falmouth and

St Michael’s Mount; the wonderful

Elizabethan mansion of Prideaux Place at

Padstow; and, of course, Land’s End where

the granite bulwark overlooks the Atlantic

waters beneath which lies the legendary Land

of Lyonesse.

Porthmellin Head

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BUDE

Up the windswept and dramatic coastline of

north Cornwall lie the sheltered beaches of

Bude. The wide seafront is Bude’s chief

attraction, which has been entertaining

visitors since Victorian times. The town still

retains the charm and atmosphere of a

traditional sea side resort, coupled with

modern services and facilities to satisfy

today’s discerning visitor.

The birthplace of British surfing (often

referred to by Australian surfers as the

‘Bondai of Britain’), the area has some of the

best surfing beaches in the UK, due to its

exposed position on the Atlantic coast, and

was the site of the first life-saving club. Bude

lifeboat station, operated by the RNLI, Royal

National Lifeboat Institution, has been in

service for over 125 years and the crews have

been presented with twelve Silver Medals and

four Framed Letters of Thanks for gallantry.

The RNLI is a registered charity dedicated to

saving lives at sea. In September 2000 the

RNLI introduced a pilot scheme to evaluate

THE BEACH AT BUDE

Bude

Luxury BoutiqueAccommodation inCornwall with StunningSea Views.

See entry on page 119

1

Crooklets Beach, Budethe potential expansion into

beach lifeguarding around the

UK. A pilot service was launched

in 2001 to cover 26 beaches in

the central south and south

west of England, with the aim

of providing a ‘joined up service

to save more lives’.

The RNLI district of Bude is

made up of Blackrock,

Widemouth, Summerleaze,

Crooklets, Northcott, and

Sandymouth on the West Coast

with Westward Ho! and

Sandymere tucked away further

up the coast to the north, over

the border in Devon. Recognisable by its

dramatic landscape, there’s something

magical about this stretch of coast, with

dozens of strange and wonderful rock

formations and outcrops giving this area

masses of character.

There are beaches to suit all tastes - just

along the coast to the North is Summerleaze,

which is an enormously well loved

destination, and it’s easy to see why.

Surrounded by sand dunes on one side and a

canal on the other, this beach has loads of

personality with plenty to look at, including

the Bude Lifeboat Station that is based here.

Further up the coast is Crooklets, another

photogenic beach with impressive rock

formations and dramatic cliffs. Crooklets is

popular with visitors and locals alike due to

its close proximity to the town centre and its

reputation for clean waters and great

amenities, A recent addition at this beach

enables you to ‘walk on water’ in a giant

plastic ball. Northcott is a rural beach set in

a National Trust area. A pretty low key affair,

this beach has a relaxing, tranquil

atmosphere, and is great for spotting wildlife

as it is relatively undisturbed. Northwards is

Sandymouth, another National Trust beach,

popular with surfers and beautiful for

walking, especially at low tide This beach

also has enchanting sunsets. Next is

Sandymere, which is renowned for its

watersports, but if you’re not feeling quite so

active the pebble and sand-covered beach is

a charming spot to sit down and spectate.

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Bude Canal

Finally, Westward Ho! This is incredibly

popular with families because of its clean

waters and outstanding amenities. It also has

a lost child centre should one of the little

folk wander off, which provides that extra

peace of mind for parents.

Add to all this a Designated Area of

Outstanding Beauty, local nature reserve,

unique sea-lock and canal with easy disabled

access, a friendly town with mostly locally

owned shops, special events and festivals

throughout the year, and you have all the

ingredients for a great holiday location.

A few minutes walk from the town centre

and you can be exploring the dramatic scenery

of the South West Coastal Path or walking in

some of the most unspoilt rural areas to be

found in the South West. Those more

interested in history will find much to explore

in Bude’s past geological features, with cliffs

laid down 300 million years ago, its maritime

connections, canal and unique sea-lock,

castle, the battleground at Stratton and the

dozens of beautiful churches in the area.

Originally a busy north Cornwall port,

Bude developed rapidly after the Bude Canal

to Launceston was opened in the 1820s. The

canal was an engineering feat of the early

19th century that intended to connect the

Atlantic with the English Channel via the

River Tamar. The only stretch to be

completed was that between Bude and

Launceston and it was, in many ways,

remarkable as the sea lock at the entrance to

the canal was the only lock on the whole

length of the canal - although it ran for 35

miles and rose to a height of 350 feet in 6

miles. The canal today has a new use as a

resource for fishing, canoeing, kayaking and

walking, and the Bude Canal Trail follows

this tranquil backwater into the heart of

Cornwall. To discover more there is a canal

exhibition in Bude Tourist Information Centre.

The flat tow-path, which is pushchair and

wheelchair friendly, provides a pleasant two-

mile walk from Bude to Helebridge.

Close to the entrance to the canal stands

Bude Castle, an unusually small fortification

designed as his home by the 19th century

engineer and prolific inventor, Sir

Goldsworthy Gurney (1793-1875), a local man

who was probably the greatest inventor

Cornwall - a place renowned for its inventors

- has ever produced (see also Launcells). The

castle, modest by Tintagel’s standards and

decidedly more modern, is renowned for

being the first building in the country to be

constructed on sand, its foundations resting

on a concrete raft - a technique developed

by Gurney. The Castle is now Bude Castle

Heritage Centre with exhibition galleries, an

archive with research facilities, an education

room, shop and a restaurant with

breathtaking views to the breakwater and

Chapel Rock and over Summerleaze Beach to

the sea beyond.

Following the exhibitions, you can find out

about Sir Goldsworthy Gurney – Cornwall’s

Forgotten Genius - and his many inventions

which include a steam jet, a musical

instrument consisting of glasses

played as a piano, and the Bude

Light, an intensive light

obtained by introducing oxygen

into the interior flame and using

mirrors. He used this to light his

house, in lighthouses and to

light the House of Commons,

where his invention replaced

280 candles and gave rise to the

expression ‘in the limelight’.

This earned the inventor his

knighthood and the light served

the House of Commons for 60

years. At the heritage centre

you can also discover about the

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St Olaf’s Parish Church, Poughillhistory, flora, fauna and port development of

Bude and its surroundings. You can also

measure yourself against the Cornish Giant,

Anthony Payne (see also Stratton). The Bude

Castle and Marshes won a prestigious Green

Flag in 2010, hailing it as one of the best

green spaces in the country.

One of the high spots in the Bude calendar

is the annual Jazz Festival, which takes place

in late August and runs into September each

year. This is when ‘New Orleans comes to

Cornwall’, and with over 20 different indoor

venues in and around the town, it is one of

the leading festivals of its kind in Britain.

Around the time of this festival is Bude

Carnival, which dates from 1920 when it was

held on Thursday, 2nd December. There has

been a Bude Carnival every year since though

it is now held on the third Saturday of August.

Money collected on the day, after expenses, is

donated to local charities and organisations.

AROUND BUDE

POUGHILL

1 mile NE of Bude off the A39

The thatched cottages of the old village of

Poughill (pronounced ‘Poffle’) stand around

the St Olaf’s Parish Church, one of the

treasure houses of Cornwall. Though its

foundations are Norman, the church as you

see it now, dates largely from the 14th

century, and is dedicated to a Norwegian king

and martyr. Noted for its late 15th century

carved oak bench ends (78 in all) telling the

story of the Passion in remarkable detail and

pair of immense 15th Century paintings of St.

Christopher facing each other across the

nave, keen eyed visitors will also spot that

the Royal Arms of Charles II have been

incorrectly dated 1655. Over the church door

is a tablet commemorating Sir Goldsworthy

Gurney, a gift, along with the church clock,

of his daughter. A notable event in Poughill’s

calendar is the Revel and Cuckoo Fair that

takes place in the centre of the village and

always on the first Thursday of August. It is a

traditional English village fete welcoming

holidaymakers, with a mix of activities to try

(archery, horse riding, treasure hunts, and

other children’s games) and plenty of

homemade cakes and homegrown produce to

sample. Many of the villages around Bude have

similar ‘Revels’, each on different weeks. The

culmination of all of these Revels is the Bude

Carnival in late August, where a large

procession of floats arrives in town, each

carrying the May Queen and her deputies from

each of the surrounding village Revels.

MORWENSTOW

5½ miles N of Bude off the A39

Tucked into Cornwall’s northwest tip,

Morwentstow has an appealing end-of-the-road

feel to it. This isolated hamlet is surrounded

by windswept cliffs and fields, and, though at

times rather storm-lashed, this is a marvellous

place from which to watch the changing

moods of the ocean. Not surprisingly,

shipwrecks have been common down the ages

along this stretch of coast and, though many

floundered as a result of storms, it was also

not unknown for local criminals to lure

unsuspecting ships on to the rocks by lighting

lanterns from the cliff tops or the shore.

One of the first people to show concern

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WEST POINT BED & BREAKFAST

Morwenstow

Come and relax in thewarm and friendlyatmosphere of thisfirst class4 star spaciousbungalow.


2

Vicarage Cliffs, Morwenstow

for the number of merchant

vessels that were coming to grief

along this perilous stretch of

coastline was the Reverend

Hawker, who spent much of his

time monitoring the sea and

would often climb down the cliff

to rescue shipwrecked crews or

recover the bodies of those who

had not survived. He insisted on

giving shipwrecked sailors a

churchyard rather than a

traditional beachside burial, with

the result that forty mariners

now repose here. In the

graveyard, look out for a white

figurehead commemorating a tragic

shipwreck. The shipwreck was that of the

brig, Caledonia of Arbroath, which was lost

with all hands - apart from one crew member

- in 1842. Celebrations in 2008 marked the

completion of a four-year restoration of her

historic figurehead, a famous relic of the

days of sail.

Hawker’s lasting credit to the church was

introducing to England the custom of the

Harvest Festival in 1843 and his most famous

poem is the rousing Cornish anthem, The

Song of Western Men, which contains the

well-known line ‘And shall Trelawney die?’ It

was first published anonymously in a

Plymouth newspaper. Many people thought it

was a traditional Cornish song composed in

the 17th century about Bishop Jonathan

Trelawney, imprisoned with six other bishops

during the reign of James II. Eccentric to the

end, Hawker became a Roman Catholic on his

deathbed, even though he had written an

anthem to Trelawney, who was a staunch

Protestant. Interestingly 100 years later,

Michael Ramsey, the retired Archbishop of

Canterbury, preached at an ecumenical service

in his honour. Ramsey described Hawker as ‘a

beyond man in a beyond place’, to whom all

English Christians should be grateful. While

visiting the area try the award-winning

Rectory Tearooms located in the Rectory

Farmhouse run by the National Trust.

Welcombe and Marsland Valleys Nature

Reserve, set in the forested valley slopes, is

a haven for butterflies. At Higher and Lower

Sharpnose Points, to the south of

Morwenstow, the erosion caused by the

constant bombardment of the sea can be

seen clearly as there are boulders strewn

along the bottom of these crumbling cliffs;

some of the outcrops of harder rocks have

begun to form tiny islands. The rugged coast

on either side of Morwenstow makes for

strenuous but exhilarating walking.

KILKHAMPTON

4½ miles NE of Bude on the A39

Kilkhampton, or ‘Kilk’ as the place is known

locally, sits 600 feet above sea level, and

claims to be Cornwall’s most northerly village

of any size. Sitting astride the A39, it is

thought to have been an important

settlement in Saxon times, as the surrounding

area is littered with ancient burial grounds.

The village’s tall and elegant St James’s

Parish Church was built in the 15th century

on the site of the previous Norman church, of

which only the splendid doorway remains. St

James’s Day (July 25th) is still celebrated in

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St Swithin’s Church, Launcells

the village. The church contains many

monuments to the local Granville family,

many of them made by Michael Chuke, a

local man and a pupil of Grinling Gibbons.

Equally notable are the magnificent carved

bench-ends, and the organ is the one played

by Purcell when it was in Westminster Abbey.

The Granvilles (who also used the surname

Grenville) at one time lived in the very grand

Stowe House, which no longer stands but is

described vividly by Charles Kingsley in his

Westward Ho!

STRATTON

1½ miles E of Bude on the A3072

This old market town predates its much

larger neighbour of Bude and is believed to

have been founded in Roman times. In fact,

when its ancient St Andrew’s Parish Church

was first being built, Bude was simply an

unimportant part of the town. The church is

well worth a visit, its main feature being a

tomb with a cross-legged knight, thought to

be that of a member of the Blanchminster

family. Originally from Shropshire, their

manor house was at Bien Amee, now a

moated site near Binhamy Farm.

Situated on a hill, the steeply sloping

main street is lined with fine Georgian houses

and cottages, many of which are still

thatched today. During the Civil War, the

town was a stronghold of the Royalists and

their commander, Sir Bevil Grenville, made

The Tree Inn his centre of operations. In May

1643, at the Battle of Stamford Hill,

Grenville led his troops to victory over the

Parliamentarians, who had been holding an

Iron Age earthwork just northwest of the

town. The dead of both sides were buried in

unmarked graves in Stratton churchyard. Each

May, on the closest weekend to the

anniversary, there is a two-day re-enactment

of the battle, fought over the Saturday and

Sunday, together with a procession through

the streets of neighbouring Stratton village.

It’s well worth a visit.

The Tree Inn was also the birthplace of

the Cornish giant, Anthony Payne. Also

known as the ‘Falstaff of the West’, he was

seven feet four inches tall and weighed 38

stones. For all his size and bulk, the witty

Payne showed no signs of clumsiness, but

awed everyone with his dexterity and very

quick reflexes. They also say he had the

brains to match the brawn that had thrust

him into the role of a mighty man. He was an

excellent choice as Sir Bevil’s bodyguard and

they fought together at Stamford Hill and

later at Lansdown Hill near Bath. When he

retired he returned to Stratton to live in the

Tree Inn. He died in 1691 and his coffin had

to be lowered through the ceiling, as it was

too large to move any other way. The Tree

Inn, whose beams are made from the timbers

of wrecked ships, still remembers Stratton’s

most famous son and a life-size portrait

hangs in the inn’s courtyard.

LAUNCELLS

2½ miles E of Bude off the A3072

Though the name ‘Launcells’ is applied to

the area, there is no Launcells village. There

was a church here in the time of the

Domesday Book, when the manor, of which

there are no remains, was held by the Earl

of Cornwall. The current church, set in a

delightful wooded combe, is dedicated to St

Swithin and was built in the 15th century. It

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BULLERS ARMSHOTEL

Marhamchurch

A much loved venue,renowned across the countyfor its great value restaurantand comfortableaccommodation.


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is delightfully unrestored, prompting John

Betjeman to declare it ‘the least spoilt

church in Cornwall’. The church is notable

for its fine Tudor bench-ends and for over

1,400 15th century Barnstaple floor tiles,

with raised griffins, lions, pelicans and

flowers. Just outside the church is a small

holy well, and in the churchyard lies the

grave of the remarkable Sir Goldsworthy

Gurney (see also Bude).

MARHAMCHURCH

2 miles SE of Bude off the A39

The Celtic Saint Morweena apparently

founded this village in the early 6th century,

and the 14th century St Marwenne’s Parish

Church is dedicated to its founder. It was

originally a Norman structure, but nothing

remains of it. The church has a magnificent

15th century oak door and a ‘sanctuary

knocker’, which allowed fugitives to seek 40

days protection in the church.

Marhamchurch Revel is a festival held

every year, on the Monday after 12th August.

During the festival a Queen of the Revel is

chosen from the village schoolgirls and

crowned by a person representing Father

Time (whose identity is not supposed to be

known) in front of the church. Following

these events a procession led by the local

band and the newly crowned Revel Queen

then proceeds through the village to the

Revel Ground. Here the villagers are

entertained with a show of Cornish dancing,

Cornish Wrestling and other entertainments.

WEEK ST MARY

6 miles SE of Bude off the B3254

This small village was the site of a Norman

fortress, and has the 15th century St Mary’s

Parish Church. The ‘week’ part of the name

comes from the old English ‘wic’, meaning a

dairy farm. It was the birthplace of

Thomasine Banaventure, who was born in

humble circumstances, but who later, as

Dame Percyval, founded a school in the

village and rose to become Lady Mayoress of

London. To the west lies Penhallam, the

grass-covered ruins of a 12th to 14th century

moated manor house which has been

excavated, revealing low walls on a central

‘island’ and a flat-bottomed moat, which was

18 feet wide and over 5 feet deep.

POUNDSTOCK

4½ miles S of Bude off the A3

The unusual Guildhouse, found here in a

wooded hollow, is the only surviving one of

its kind in Cornwall. It was constructed in the

14th century, probably to house the masons

working on the building of St Winwaloe’s

Parish Church. It remains a fine example of

a once common style of non-secular building.

After the church had been built the

guildhouse became a meeting place; over the

years it has also acted as a poorhouse and a

village school.

Nearby, Penfound Manor is reputed to be

the oldest inhabited house in England, with

parts of it dating from Saxon times. It is said

that William the Conqueror gave it to his half

brother Robert. Ghost stories reveal that the

Manor is haunted by the ghost of Kate

Penfound, who was killed by her own father

(a Royalist) while trying to elope with John

Trebarfoot, a Parliamentarian. Her father and

John then fought, each dying from wounds

they received.

WIDEMOUTH BAY

3 miles S of Bude off the A39

Widemouth Bay is surrounded by intriguing

rock formations, most notably the

spectacular Blackrock. All of these somehow

give the beach a rather ancient, mystical

feel. It’s easy to imagine the area being

battered and shaped by the sea over the

centuries and you get a real sense of history

when you stand on this coast. It’s no surprise

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Blackrock, Widemouth Bay

PENPETHY HOLIDAY COTTAGES

Lower Penpethy, nr Tintagel

Four beautiful barnconversion cottagesawait with luxurybathrooms, bedroomsand sun drenchedcourtyards.


4

then that Widemouth is one of the most

exciting places for rock pooling, with a

plethora of marine life to be spotted on its

shores. The surf is suitable for beginners to

intermediate, perfect for those not yet ready

to face the biggest waves. There is ample

parking and several campsites, plus other

types of accommodation in the locality.

Blackrock joins up with the neighbouring

beach Widemouth for most of the day, but at

high tide it becomes cut off, looming up out

of the water majestically. This is an excellent

beach for photography enthusiasts because of

the unique outcrops and the spectacular

light. The sunsets round here are legendary,

and apart from very early in the morning,

Blackrock gets sunlight all day long.

TINTAGEL

The mention of Tintagel conjures up a host of

images - wild Cornish cliffs and rugged shores,

mysterious ruins clinging to a windswept

island, gift shops, tearooms and all things

‘Arthurian’. With an atmosphere like no other

place, it’s not surprising that Tintagel has

attracted poets, artists, historians and

sightseers since the Victorian era.

Renowned for its association with the

legend of King Arthur and his Knights of the

Round Table, the magic of the association is

captured particularly by the black, forsaken

ruins of Tintagel Castle, magnificently sited

on the rocky littoral a short

walk west of the village. It is a

hard climb up some 300 steps to

The Island but well worth it. At

the foot of The Island is Merlin’s

Cave, where visitors can listen

to the waves booming. Although

the castle makes a plausibly

resonant candidate for the

abode of the ‘Once and Future

King’, it was in fact a Norman

stronghold occupied by the Earls

of Cornwall. The castle remains

on the mainland are of a castle

built by Earl Reginald of

Cornwall, the earliest parts

dating from the mid 12th

century. Reginald was the brother of the Earl

of Gloucester, who encouraged Geoffrey of

Monmouth to write his History of the English

Kings, a chronicle that mentions Tintagel as

being Arthur’s birthplace. So maybe Reginald

saw Tintagel as the natural site for his new

castle.

Along with Caerleon in Wales, South

Cadbury in Somerset, Camelford in Cornwall,

Greenan in Ayrshire and Kelso in Roxburgh

(and a few more besides!), Tintagel also lays

claim to being the site of Camelot, the

mythical headquarters of the Knights of the

Round Table, and an annual attraction is a re-

enactment of the Battle of Camlann, where

Arthur was reputedly slain.

The town naturally owes much of its

popularity to its Arthurian connections. On

the main Fore Street, King Arthur’s Great

Halls is the only building in the world

dedicated to the Arthurian legend, the

brainchild of the philanthropist millionaire

Frederick Thomas Glasscock. Designed and

built in the 1930’s the granite and slate

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Old Post Office, Tintagel

building encapsulates the world and legend of

King Arthur. Visited by people from all over

the world and boasting over 2 million visitors

since it opened in 1933, among the many

sights are numerous carved slates and stones,

one of only seven Pillow Swords, and 72

stained glass windows, which bear the Knights’

Coats of Arms and depict some of their

adventures. And in the Arthurian Experience

Merlin takes his audience on a journey through

time, telling Arthur’s story in laser lights,

music and sound. The halls are open daily, all

year round, and in the shop is a vast selection

of Arthurian, Celtic and Anglo-Saxon books,

postcards, jewellery, gifts and swords.

Also on the main street, though this time

not connected with King Arthur, is the

weather-beaten Old Post Office (National

Trust), housed in a small manor house dating

from the 14th century and still retaining the

stone-paved medieval hall complete with its

ancient fireplace. At the time of the

introduction of the penny post in 1840,

Tintagel had no post office, and with the

increase in the volume of letters the trek

from Camelford became too much of a

burden. A post office was set up in a rented

room in the house, and in that role it served

the village until 1894. It was then sold to an

artist, Miss Catherine Jones, who with the

help of other artists raised money to repair

the building. In 1903, it was purchased for

£100 by the National Trust. One of their very

first acquisitions, it has remained in the

Trust’s care ever since. One room has been

restored in the style of a letter receiving

office as it was in Victorian times. St

Materiana’s Parish Church is set some

distance away from the centre of the village

on an exposed cliff and its early 15th century

tower has long been used as a landmark by

sailors. St Materiana is also known as St

Madryn, a princess from Gwent, and the

much-restored original Norman building

displays some Saxon fragments in its

structure, and still retains its Norman font.

To the north of the village of Tintagel lies

the mile-long Rocky Valley, a curious rock-

strewn cleft in the landscape which has a

character all of its own. In the wooded

upper reaches can be found the impressive

60-feet waterfall known as St Nectan’s Kieve

- named after the Celtic hermit whose cell is

believed to have stood beside the basin, or

kieve, at the foot of the cascade. The

tranquil kieve has been a place of worship

and reverence since pre-Christian times, and

the waterfall is in a designated Site of

Special Scientific Interest. Here too can be

seen the Rocky Valley Carvings, on a rock

face behind a ruined building. It has been

suggested that the carvings date from early

Christian times, around the same time that St

Nectan was living here. However, it is

impossible to be accurate and other

suggestions range from the 2nd century BC to

the 17th century.

AROUND TINTAGEL

BOSSINEY

½ mile N of Tintagel off the B3263

Bossiney is situated on one of the

most romantic stretches of a truly

awe-inspiring coastline, much of

which is now preserved by the

National Trust. Legend gives

Bossiney Mound a fascinating niche

in the Arthurian story. According to

Cornish tradition, beneath the

mount lies Arthur’s Round Table. If

Arthur ever returns, a legend says

that the table will rise from the

mound to accommodate him and

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MUSEUM OF WITCHCRAFT

Boscastle

A fascinatingmuseum housingthe world’s largestcollection ofwitchcraft relatedartefacts.

See entry on page

121

5

Boscastle Village

his knights once more.

Reached by a short signposted footpath

from the village, Bossiney Haven is a

beautiful, sheltered beach surrounded by a

semi circle of cliffs. The beach is still

relatively quiet compared to much of the

surrounding area, as people tend to

completely miss it as they go from Tintagel

to Boscastle although it is overlooked by a

hotel and small campsite.

BOSCASTLE

3 miles NE of Tintagel on the B3263

Boscastle came to prominence in August 2004

as a result of the terrible floods that

devastated this quiet fishing village. Four

years later a £10m flood defence scheme was

officially opened in the village. The recovery

was remarkable and the damage done no

longer evident. Designated an Area of

Outstanding Beauty, the National Trust own

and care for this beautiful medieval harbour

and surrounding coastline. Here too a lovely

valley heads inland, a path follows a fast

flowing burbling stream which

leads to several hidden churches

allowing you to discover the

little known connection

between North Cornwall and

Thomas Hardy. Pentargon

Waterfall is featured in Hardy’s

novel A Pair of Blue Eyes.

The straggling village grew

up around the harbour, and

takes its name from, the now

demolished Bottreaux Castle

built by the de Botterell family

in Norman times. The

picturesque inlet, between the

cliffs, is the only natural

harbour between Hartland Point and Padstow

and is formed by the rivers Valency and

Jordan. The renowned Elizabethan seafarer,

Sir Richard Grenville, built the harbour’s

inner jetty in 1584, at a time when the

village was prospering as a fishing, grain and

slate port. The outer jetty, or breakwater,

dates from the 19th century, when Boscastle

had grown to become a bustling commercial

port handling coal, timber, slate and china

clay. Because of the dangerous harbour

entrance, ships had to be ‘hobbled’ (towed)

in by boats manned by eight oarsmen, and

centred in the channel by gangs of men

pulling on ropes.

The 2004 floods took their toll on

Boscastle’s Museum of Witchcraft, an

intelligent, comprehensive and non-gimmicky

account of witchcraft throughout the ages;

when you visit look out for the green marker

on the right hand door, it shows the level the

flood water reached. The museum houses the

world’s largest collection of witchcraft-

related books, artefacts and regalia and was

originally opened in 1951 by Cecil Williamson

on the Isle of Man. It is said that Williamson

knew so much about witchcraft and the

occult that his knowledge helped Britain’s

war efforts during World War II, as some of

the leading Nazis were steeped in the occult.

Penally Point on the northern side of the

harbour is home to the Devil’s Bellows – a

blow-hole that occasionally shoots out

plumes of water at low tide when there is

enough swell running.

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Crackington Haven Beach

ST JULIOT

4 miles NE of Tintagel off the B3266

Tucked away in the wooded valley of the fast

flowing River Valency, this hidden hamlet is

home to St Juliot Parish Church, upon which

Thomas Hardy worked when an architect, and

also where, in 1870, he met his future wife,

Emma Gifford, the rector’s sister-in-law.

Emma later professed that the young

architect had already appeared to her in a

dream and wrote how she was ‘immediately

arrested by his familiar appearance’. Much of

the couple’s courtship took place along the

wild stretch of coastline between Boscastle

and Crackington Haven and, when Emma

died, over 40 years later, Hardy returned to

St Juliot to erect a memorial to her in the

church. Following his death in 1928, a similar

memorial was erected to Hardy himself.

CRACKINGTON HAVEN

7½ miles NE of Tintagel off the B3263

Crackington Haven is a small sheltered beach

that slopes away gently to the sea and is

overlooked by towering 400-feet cliffs and

jagged rocks. A rock lover’s paradise, a

dramatic period of the world’s formation is

frozen forever in these spectacular cliffs. The

small and narrow sandy cove is approached,

by land, down a steep-sided wooded combe

which has a few houses, an inn and a village

shop at the bottom. Originally a small port

that imported coal and limestone and

exported slate, this small haven is now a

popular beach with locals and visitors alike.

Viewed from the sea it is difficult to see how

sizeable vessels once landed here to deliver

their cargoes of limestone and Welsh coal.

For those of you who do not want to hit

the beach, fear not as there are some

stunning views to absorb with a little help

from Shank’s pony (your feet). Some of the

most spectacular coastal scenery can be

viewed by walking the cliff-top path from

Crackington Haven to Cambeak to the south,

but, though impressive, the cliff rock is often

loosely packed and care should be taken at

all times when close to the cliff edge. Just to

the south of Crackington Haven a difficult

path (so take care) leads to The Strangles, a

remote beach with a rather curious name.

Although, at low tide, large patches of sand

are revealed among the rocks, the

undercurrents here are strong and swimming

is always unsafe. During one year alone in the

1820s, some 20 ships were said to have come

to grief in this cove.

Above the Strangles is High Cliff, and it

justifies this name because it is over 735 feet

above the rolling Atlantic ocean (the highest

point on the Cornwall coast) and the views

back towards Crackington and beyond or

south towards Boscastle are to be

experienced in the flesh. So dramatic is the

scenery that some episodes of the TV series

Poldark were filmed around here.

On the coast road a mile and a half south

of Crackington Haven is the National Trust’s

HENTERVENE HOLIDAY PARK

Crackington Haven

Just moments from thebeach, this sheltered,peaceful family parklies on the stunningNorth Cornish coast.


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Bridge over River Camel, Slaughterbridge

Trevigue, a working

livestock farm, where the

wildlife includes badgers,

deer, foxes, rabbits, birds of

prey, bats and glow worms.

CAMELFORD

4 miles SE of Tintagel on the A39

Camelford, formerly ‘Cam

Pol’ which is Cornish for

‘curved river’, sits astride

the River Camel. It is a

small town once thought to

be the site of King Arthur’s

Camelot. It built its

prosperity on the wool trade, and the central

small square is lined with 18th and 19th

century houses; the early-19th century town

hall has a camel for a weathervane.

Two museums offer some diversion from

the wilderness of moorland, the most

conventional of which is the North Cornwall

Museum and Gallery. Housed in a building

that was originally used for making coaches

and wagons, it shows aspects of life in this

area from the 19th century and includes the

reconstruction of a moorland cottage. A full

range of tools used by blacksmiths, cobblers

and printers is also on display, as well as a

large number of items varying from lace

bonnets to early vacuum cleaners, and a

collection of Cornish and Devonshire pottery.

Camelford’s Tourist Information Centre is

housed in the North Cornwall Museum.

Just outside Camelford on the Boscastle

road lies the British Cycling Museum housed

in an old Victorian railway station. It is open

from Sunday to Thursday each week

throughout the year and has more than four

hundred examples of different cycles in

addition to an old cycle repair workshop,

with tools from long ago. There is an

extensive library of books here and such

interesting articles as the first cycle oil

lamp. The museum documents cycling

history since 1881.

On the riverbank at Slaughterbridge, lies

another museum; the Arthurian Centre

houses the Land of Arthur exhibition,

covering Arthur-related art and poetry by

means of a video and photographs. There

are also gardens with riverside walks, and a

tearoom overlooking a children’s play castle.

The main base of the centre, however, is the

6th century inscribed King Arthur’s Stone,

which supposedly marks the place where

King Arthur fell at the Battle of Camlann in

AD 539 with Mordred, ending the fellowship

of the Round Table.

TREBARWITH

1½ miles S of Tintagel off the B3263

Trebarwith with its vast cliffs, dark caves and

fine golden sand, together with Gull rock,

almost reminiscent of a dog’s head keeping

watch off shore, make an excellent scene. A

good surfing beach, Trebarwith Strand, some

2 miles west of this hamlet, is the only easily

accessible beach between Polzeath and

Crackington Haven. Backed by crumbling

cliffs that were once quarried for slate, this

sandy stretch of coastline is strewn with

rocks and, though popular during the summer,

swimmers must be wary of being swept off

the rocks - or hit by falling rocks. It’s also a

popular surfing spot, and has been used as a

backdrop by filmmakers.

TREWARMETT

1½ miles SE of Tintagel on the B3263

A mile or so up the valley from Trebarwith

Strand is the Prince of Wales Slate Quarry,

whose ponds and spoil heaps are now a

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Delabole Slate Quarry

peaceful and little visited nature reserve.

The Quarry’s pumps were steam powered and

the well-preserved Beam Engine House is a

prominent feature on the skyline. Another

quarry, Jeffrey’s Pit, has a picnic area

beside it - a good place to wrap yourself in

the mystery and grandeur of Cornwall’s

industrial past - the dog will love it too!

Close by the woodland is carpeted with

bluebells in April and May.

This moorland village, like so many

places in this area, has associations with the

legend of King Arthur - here an ancient

rectangular enclosure surrounded by stone

slabs is said to be one of the places where

King Arthur held court.

DELABOLE

3 miles S of Tintagel on the B3314

Cornwall’s only producer of slate today is the

massive operation at Delabole Slate Quarry.

It claims to be the largest man-made hole in

Europe. The high quality dark blue slate has

been quarried here without interruption since

Tudor times, making it the oldest

continuously worked slate quarry in Europe.

It is known that in around 2000 BC the Beaker

folk on Bodmin Moor used slate as baking

shelves. Delabole is almost literally, built of

slate: it has been used for houses, walls,

steps and the church. Once known as ‘the

great slate road’, the lanes to the west of

Delabole used to carry vast quantities of

stone to the harbours at Port Gaverne, Port

Isaac, Port Quin and Boscastle until the

railways took over the transport of the stone

in the 1890s.

This slate village overlooks both the ocean

and the moors, thus affording the onlooker

stunning views inland towards Roughtor and

Brown Willy, with equally breathtaking

seascapes of the North Cornwall coast in the

same vista.

LAUNCESTON

Launceston (pronounced ‘Lance-son’) is the

ancient capital of Cornwall and was once the

site of the Royal Mint and the only walled

town in Cornwall. Situated on the Devon and

Cornwall border and between two moors -

Bodmin and Dartmoor - the town allows easy

access to West Devon, the Tamar Valley and

North and South Cornwall. It is a town of

contrasts, from the antique to the ultra

modern, overlaid with a sedate, well-to-do

charm. The architecture is stunning and can

only be appreciated on foot.

It was here, shortly after the Norman

Conquest, that William I’s half-brother, Robert

of Mortain, Earl of Cornwall, built a massive

castle overlooking the River Kensey. A place

from which Robert tried to govern the fiercely

independent Cornish people, Launceston

Castle was subsequently the base of the Earls

of Cornwall. Visited by the Black Prince and

seized by the Cornish rebels of 1549, the

castle changed hands twice during the Civil

War before becoming an

assize court and prison that

was famous for imprisoning

and executing ‘on the nod’.

It was here, in 1656, that

George Fox, the founder of

the Society of Friends, was

held for several months.

Launceston developed around

its castle, which still

dominates the skyline from

the top of a grassy mound

just west of the centre,

though all that now remains

is the rough-hewn cylindrical

keep and round curtain

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THE WHITE HORSE INN

Launceston

The White Horse isknown for it’sexcellent food andfriendlyatmosphere.

See entry on page

123

7

Launceston Steam Railway

walls. The outer bailey is now a public

park. During World War II the castle was

used as a military hospital.

North of the castle, Castle Street was

described by John Betjeman as ‘having

the most perfect collection of 18th

century townhouses in Cornwall’. Its red

brick buildings include Lawrence House

Museum, a graceful setting for some

well-displayed local exhibits, which

includes items relating to John Couch

Adams, co-discoverer of the planet

Neptune, who was born in nearby

Laneast (also see Laneast). The museum is

closed during the winter.

East off Castle Street, on Church Street,

the 16th century St Mary Magdalene Parish

Church is almost all the work of a local

squire Sir Henry Trecarrel and is noted chiefly

for its ornately carved granite fa•ades – no

mean feat, considering the unyielding

qualities of granite. Portraits of Sir Henry and

his wife can be seen on the south side of the

porch, while under the east window is a

recumbent figure of Mary Magdalene;

according to local lore, if you throw a stone

over your shoulder and it lands on the

effigy’s back, you will receive good luck.

Highlights inside the church include the fine

Perpendicular pulpit painted red, black and

white, and contrasting Art Nouveau carved

bench ends. The tower is much older, being

part of the original church built by Edward

the Black Prince in the 14th century.

To the west of the town, and running

through the beautiful Kensey Valley, the

Launceston Steam Railway takes visitors on

a journey back in time. Travelling in either

open or closed carriages, passengers can

enjoy a round trip along 5 miles of narrow-

gauge track to Newmills and back. The

locomotives used to haul the trains were

built in the 1880s and 1890s by the famous

Hunslet Engine Company of Leeds, and worked

on the slate-carrying lines high in the

mountains of North Wales. In addition to a

station buffet (cream teas a specialty), the

railway also has a model railway display,

workshops open to the public, a transport

museum and a book and gift shop. There are

also veteran cars and motorcycles on show in

the small transport museum here. Close to the

station at Newmills is a riverside farm park

with indoor and outdoor games for children.

Just off the A30, 3 miles west of

Launceston, Trethorne Leisure Farm – ‘The

Gateway to Cornish Leisure’ – has a great

variety of farm animals. Visitors are

encouraged to touch them and to bottle feed

lambs. There are also pony and shire horse

rides, ballpool, fun castle, indoor maze and

tenpin bowling. Open every day (except three

days over Christmas), all year round.

AROUND LAUNCESTON

LANEAST

5 miles W of Launceston off the A395

The village of Laneast was home to one of the

moor’s most famous sons. John Couch Adams

(1819-92) was a brilliant scholar who went on

to attend Cambridge and eventually became

director of the Cambridge Observatory. He is

best remembered for determining the

presence of Neptune (work which at the time

was ignored). Couch Adams refused a

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The Cheesewring, Bodmin Moor

knighthood offered by Queen Victoria to

honour him for his accomplishments.

Laneast is also home to one of the many

holy wells found in this part of the county.

The well is now housed in a 16th century

building, close to which stand a tall Celtic

cross and St Sidwell and St Gulvat Parish

Church, which is mainly Norman.

ST CLETHER

6 miles W of Launceston off the A395

An elaborate holy well can be found a few

hundred yards northwest of this tranquil

village, standing on its own on a bracken-

covered shelf in the valley of the River

Inney. With its adjacent 15th century chapel,

this well is the most enchanting of its kind in

the county. The village itself has St Clederus

Parish Church, which is part Norman but

heavily restored by the Victorians; however, a

number of earlier features have survived,

including the Norman stone pillars and font,

and the 15th century tower.

NORTH PETHERWIN

5 miles NW of Launceston off the B3254

Situated above the River Ottery, this village

is home to the privately owned Tamar Otter

& Wildlife Centre. The sanctuary is open for

visits from 1 April (or Good Friday if earlier)

to the end of October. Otters are fed at

noon and 3pm and owl talks take place at

11.30am and 2.30pm. Remember to sponsor

an animal on your visit; all proceeds go

towards the upkeep of the centre and

wildlife. The parish church is one of the

oldest in Cornwall and is beautifully

maintained by the vicar and parishioners.

WARBSTOW

8 miles NW of Launceston off the A39

This village is overlooked by Warbstow Bury

Hillfort, one of the county’s finest forts. On

the interior is a low mound known as ‘King

Arthur’s Grave’, once believed to be a

Neolithic long barrow, but now regarded as a

medieval pillow mound or rabbit warren.

There are wonderful views over northern

Bodmin Moor from the fort.

BODMIN MOOR

Ask many people about Cornwall and they

probably will not even mention Bodmin Moor.

It does not incorporate a wonderful coastline,

there are no ‘hidden gardens’ or superb

biomes - but it does have stunning

countryside, wonderful wildlife, unspoilt

villages and some of Cornwall’s most

important prehistoric sites, including The

Hurlers and Trethevy Quoit – ‘Quoit’ is the

Cornish name for a type of megalithic

structure comprising granite rocks arranged

into what may have been burial chambers,

whose outer covering of earth has washed

away over the centuries.

Stretching for 30 miles through the middle

of Cornwall Bodmin Moor, an Area of

Outstanding Natural Beauty, which lies

between 800 and 1,400 feet above sea level

and covers around 100 square miles, is the

smallest, mildest, most accessible of the

West Country’s great moors. The granite

upland is characterised by saturated

moorland and weather-beaten tors and from

here the rivers Inny, Lynher, Fowey, St Neot

and De Lank flow to both the north and south

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Dozmary Pool, Bolvemtor

JAMAICA INN AND MUSEUMS

Bolventor

There are fascinatingdisplays, as well as goodfood, drink andaccommodation at thisinn Immortalised byDaphe du Maurier in hernovel.


8

coasts of Cornwall.

At 1,377 feet, Brown Willy is

the highest point of the moor

and of Cornwall while, just to

the northwest, lies Roughtor

(pronounced ‘row tor’), the

moor’s second highest point.

Standing on National Trust-

owned land, Roughtor is a

magnificent viewpoint and also

the site of a memorial to the

men of the 43rd Wessex

Regiment who were killed

during World War II. Throughout

this wild and beautiful moorland

there are the remains left behind by earlier

occupiers: there are scattered Bronze Age hut

circles and field enclosures, such as Fernacre

Stone Circle, and Iron Age hill forts.

BOLVENTOR

Lying at the centre of the moor, Jamaica Inn

is one of the area’s chief focuses for walkers,

sightseers and coach parties alike. The

authoress Daphne du Maurier immortalised

Bolventor when she chose it as the setting for

her famous novel Jamaica Inn, featuring

Cornish smugglers – she described the inn as

being ‘alone in glory, four square to the

winds’. Now Cornwall’s most famous inn, it

was once a former coaching house; an inn has

occupied the main road through the village

since 1547, the present building dates to

1750. The combination of its literary

association and its convenient position has

led to its development as a hotel and

restaurant complex to the development of a

Smuggler’s Museum. Modern visitors to the

inn can relive the smugglers’ experience,

which boasts one of the finest and most

extensive collections of smuggling artefacts

in Britain; there is also a display of various

items owned by Daphne du Maurier, including

her writing desk and typewriter.

Rumoured to be haunted, the Jamaica Inn

featured in an episode of Living TV’s Most

Haunted. Notable apparitions include a

malevolent figure of a highwayman in a tri-

cornered hat, a distressed young mother and

her baby and the spirit of a young smuggler

who is believed to have been murdered at

the bar and who has been reported to be

seen sitting on the wall in the courtyard.

Just to the south of Bolventor lies the

mysterious natural tarn, Dozmary Pool,

another place that is strongly linked with the

legend of King Arthur. According to one tale,

King Arthur was brought here following his

final battle at Slaughterbridge, near

Camelford (many places lay claim to the site

of his death, and indeed to his birth). As he

lay dying at the water’s edge, he implored

his friend, Sir Bedivere, to throw his sword,

Excalibur, into the centre of the lake, where

it was received by a lady’s hand rising up

from the water. However, there are several

other lakes around the country, notably Looe

Pool at Mount’s Bay and both Bosherstone and

Llyn Llydaw in Wales, which also lay claim to

being home to the Lady of the Lake and the

resting place of Excalibur.

The lake is also the source of another,

more obviously Cornish myth, that of Jan

Tregeagle, a wicked lawyer and steward of

Lanhydrock who sold his soul to the devil. His

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St Nonna’s Church, Altarnun

many evil deeds include the murder of the

parents of a young child whose estate he

wanted. As a punishment, so the story goes,

Tregeagle was condemned to spend the rest of

time emptying the supposedly bottomless lake

using only a leaking limpet shell. His howls of

despair are said to be heard there to this day.

The diamond-shaped lake usually preserves an

ethereal air, though it’s been known to run dry

in summer, dealing a bit of a blow to the

legend that the pool is bottomless.

AROUND BOLVENTOR

ALTARNUN

4 miles NE of Bolventor off the A30

By the picturesque packhorse bridge, the

chiefly 15th century church in Altarnun -

dedicated to St Nonna, mother of David the

patron saint of Wales – has been dubbed the

‘Cathedral of the Moors’. The church has a

108-feet pinnacled tower that rises high

above the peat-stained river. Look out, too,

for the set of 79 superb bench ends, carved

at the beginning of the 16th century, boldly

depicting secular and sacred subjects – such

as saints, musicians, clowns, moorland sheep

and even a bagpipe player. In the churchyard

stands the only relic of St Nonna’s time, a

Celtic cross that is thought to date from the

same time as her journey here from Wales in

around AD 527. Also in the churchyard are

slate memorials that were carved by local

sculptor Nevil Northey Burnard, who became

famous when he sculpted the head of Edward

VII, then Prince of Wales and Duke of

Cornwall, he is also responsible for the effigy

of John Wesley, the founder of Methodism

(see also Trewint). Situated in a steep-sided

valley of Penpont Water, this pretty, granite-

grey village also has literary associations with

Daphne du Maurier; the Old Rectory of 1842,

which lies close to the church, is featured in

her most famous novel Jamaica Inn.

The land around Altarnun, known as East

Moor, is an unrestricted open access area that

includes the 1,100-feet Fox Tor and the Nine

Stones Circle.

TREWINT

3 miles N of Bolventor off the A30

The busy A30 carries visitors from Launceston

to Bodmin and beyond and cuts through

Trewint but if you don’t know where to look,

you will miss the hamlet altogether. And that

would be a pity for in the village there is one

of the most hallowed Methodist sites in

Cornwall. Wesley Cottage is the former home

of Digory and Elizabeth Isbell who

entertained John Wesley, the founder of

Methodism, on some of his visits to Cornwall

in the mid 18th century. But there is much

more to the story than that. One day in 1743

two of Wesley’s men, John Nelson and John

Downs, came to Trewint and called at the

house of a stonemason called Digory Isbell.

Digory was at work at the time, so his wife

Elizabeth gave the two men refreshment. They

then insisted on paying, and fell on their

knees to pray without using a prayer book.

Digory was told this story on his return, and

was so impressed that a year later Wesley

himself was entertained in the house. Shortly

after this, Digory was inspired by a passage in

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The Hurlers, Minions

the Bible to build an extension to his house

for the use of Wesley and his preachers. The

rooms, thought to be the smallest Methodist

preaching places in the world, have been

maintained in the 18th century style and

visitors can see the specially constructed

‘Prophets’ Chamber’ and ‘Pilgrims’ Garden’.

Digory and Elizabeth Isbell are both buried in

the churchyard at nearby Altarnun. Local

legend has it that if you run round the iron

railings surrounding their tombstone twelve

times, then put your fingers in your ears, you

will hear the bells of heaven.

UPTON CROSS

7 miles SE of Bolventor on the B3254

A handsome village that is home to Sterts

Theatre, which has one of the few open-air

amphitheatres in the country, Upton Cross is

also the place where Cornish Yarg Cheese

originated from and Cornish Blue, which was

the winning cheese in the World Food

Awards of 2010.

MINIONS

6 miles SE of Bolventor off the B3254

In the heart of the former 18th century

granite, copper and lead mining belt of

Bodmin Moor is the village of Minions. Here

you can walk along the disused mineral

railway and the surrounding area also offers a

wealth of archaeological interest from early

Bronze Age onwards. This was also the

setting for EV Thompson’s historical

novel, Chase the Wind. Today, a

former mine engine house of the

Phoenix Mine has become the

Minions Heritage Centre, which

covers over 4,000 years of life on

the moorland and includes the story

of mining as well as the life and

times of much earlier inhabitants of

this area.

Close to the village stands The

Hurlers, a wide complex of three

stone circles dating from about

1500 BC. The purpose of these stark

upright stones is not known, though

local lore declares them to be men

turned to stone for playing the Celtic game

of hurling (a form of hockey) on the Sabbath.

Visitors from all over the world come to

dowse the stone circles, claiming to feel

energy emanating from them. A line drawn

through the centres of the circles points to

Rillaton Barrow, a large burial mound known

as ’tumulus’. In 1837 a gold, corrugated cup

was found within the barrow; this is now in

the British Museum, with a copy in the Royal

Cornwall Museum in Truro.

ST CLEER

6½ miles SE of Bolventor off the B3254

Like nearby Minions, this sizeable moorland

village was overwhelmed, and transformed,

by a copper-mining boom in the mid 19th

century, which has been compared in its

intensity and in its social and economic

repercussions, to that of the North American

gold rush. There are older historical stories

to be told here too; dating from Neolithic

times and found a mile east of the village,

Trethevy Quoit, also known as ‘The Giant’s

House’, is an impressive enclosed chamber

tomb, which originally formed the core of a

vast earthwork mound. The largest such

structure (known as a dolmen) in the county,

Trethevy Quoit is believed to be over 5,000

years old and, although the rectangular hole

cut into the stone blocking the tomb’s

entrance was thought to allow bodies to be

placed inside, the reason for the hole in the

capstone is not known with any certainty.

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Golitha Falls, St Cleer

Also close by is King Doniert’s Stone, a

tall stone cross which was erected in

memory of King Durngarth, a Cornish

king thought to have drowned in the

nearby River Fowey in AD 875. The

Latin inscription on the cross, which is

now sadly in two pieces, reads, after

translation, ‘Erected for Doniert for the

good of his soul’. In the village itself is

St Cleer’s Holy Well, in a beautiful 15th

century building. There used to be a

total immersion (or ‘bowssening’) pool

here which was used for the attempted

cure of the insane; the patients were

tossed up and down in the waters until they

became sane.

Downstream from King Doniert’s Stone, the

River Fowey descends for half a mile through

dense broad-leaved woodland in a delightful

series of cascades known as Golitha Falls.

This outstanding beauty spot is also a National

Nature Reserve, and the grey wagtail and the

great spotted woodpecker are among the rare

birds to be seen.

ST NEOT

6 miles S of Bolventor on a minor road

St Neot is one of Bodmin Moor’s prettiest

villages and is a good access point for the

southern part of the moor. For a true

underground experience, be sure to pay a

visit to Carnglaze Caverns and The Rum

Store. Carnglaze consists of three

underground caverns set in the Loveny Valley

at St Neot. Carnglaze which means ‘blue rock

pile’ in Cornish, goes back long before the

dinosaurs roamed the earth. The mud which

would become the slate that is Carnglaze was

being laid down underneath the seas from as

long ago as 500 million years. Now the

caverns are available for all to see. In recent

years Carnglaze Caverns has found notoriety

as an unusual concert venue. The first of the

caverns, The Rum Store, is so called because

the Royal Navy used it during the Second

World War to store its supply of rum. In 2001

it was converted into an auditorium with

seating for 400. You can take a guided tour

around the main spectacular cavern, walking

down the steps, going underground, and

ending up by the amazing underground lake.

It also merits a visit for its splendid 15th

century St Anietus’s Parish Church, which

contains some of the most impressive

medieval stained-glass windows of any parish

church in the country. In one, God is depicted

measuring out the universe during the

Creation while, in another, Noah can be seen

with his Ark, which takes the shape of a

sailing ship of the period. Perhaps the most

interesting window of all is that of St Neot,

the diminutive saint after whom the village is

named. St Neot became famous for his

miracles involving animals and one story tells

of an exhausted hunted doe who ran to the

side of the saint. A stern look from the saint

sent the pursuing hounds back into the forest,

while the huntsman dropped his bow and

became a faithful disciple. Another tale, and

one that can be seen in the church window,

tells of an angel giving Neot three fish for his

well – saying that, as long as he only eats one

fish a day there will always be fish in the

well. Unfortunately, when Neot fell ill his

servant took two fish from the well, cooked

them and gave them to Neot who, horrified,

prayed over the meal and ordered the fish to

return to the well. As the dead fish touched

the water they came alive again.

WARLEGGAN

5 miles SW of Bolventor off the A30

The remote location of this hamlet, up a

steep wooded lane, has led to its long

associations with the supernatural and it has

long been acknowledged as a haunt of the

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BODMIN & WENFORD RAILWAY

Bodmin

Discover the excitementand nostalgia of steamtravel with a journeyback in time on theBodmin & WenfordRailway, Cornwall’s only full size railway stillregularly operated by steam locomotives.


10THE WEAVERS

Bodmin

You are in for a treat atThe Weavers. There isfantastic hospitality aswell as tremendousfood.


9

Cornish ‘piskies’. However, Warleggan’s most

eccentric inhabitant was the Reverend

Frederick Densham who was the parish priest

from 1931 to 1953. Disliked by his

parishioners he built a high wall round the

rectory and withdrew from the world. He

even painted the church and rectory in garish

colours, but was ordered to remove the paint

by the Bishop of Truro. As no villagers would

go to his church he preached to an empty

church and filled it with cardboard cutouts

for a congregation; one record in the parish

registry of the time reads, ‘No fog. No wind.

No rain. No congregation’. It does appear

that the rector did have a kinder nature,

however, as he constructed a children’s

playground in the rectory garden. After his

death people began returning to the church.

It is said his ghost still haunts the village.

BODMIN

The town of Bodmin itself lies to the west of

the moor, equidistant between Cornwall’s

north and south coasts and at the junction of

two ancient cross-country trade routes. It

would be easy to pass through Bodmin

without seeing anything more than another

non-descript market town, but the dismissive

passer-by would be missing a wealth of

attractions and historical curiosities. From

the old Town Jail and Military Museum, to the

Steam Railway and Camel Trail, to the wild

beauty of nearby Bodmin Moor and

immaculate formal gardens of Lanhydrock, a

wide variety of treasures are open to anyone

willing to pause a moment and look closer.

A prominent landmark in Bodmin is the

Gilbert Memorial, a 144-feet obelisk

occupying a commanding location on Bodmin

Beacon, a high area of moorland south of the

town centre. It was erected in 1856 in

memory of Sir Walter Raleigh Gilbert, a local

dignitary who distinguished himself as a

general in the Bengal army.

On Mount Folly, the Gilberts and other

local worthies in the town’s history are

recalled in Bodmin Town Museum. More

absorbing is the next-door Courtroom

Experience, housed in the Georgian Shire

Hall – formerly the assize court. The

exhibition features an hourly re-enactment of

the trial of Matthew Weeks. Weeks went to

the gallows for the murder of Charlotte

Dymond, but was he guilty? Visitors can hear

the evidence and cast their votes as part of

the jury, and the 45-minute session also

includes a visit to the cells. The Cornish poet

Charles Causley remembers Charlotte Dymond

in a ballad:

It was a Sunday evening

And in the April rain

That Charlotte went from our house

And never came home again.

Housed in The Keep, next to Bodmin

General Station, The Duke of Cornwall’s

Light Infantry Regimental Museum covers

the history of the regiment, which was

formed as marines in 1702 and played an

important part in the capture of Gibraltar in

1704. The museum has two main galleries and

its many important exhibits include eight

Victoria Crosses and George Washington’s

bible captured in 1777 during the American

War of Independence. Battle honours

decorate also the largest parish church in

Cornwall. In the 6th century, St Petroc, one

of the most influential of the early Welsh

missionary saints, visited Bodmin and in the

10th century the monastery he had founded

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Bodmin Jail

in Padstow moved here as a protection

against sea raids by the Vikings. The granite

hulk of St Petroc’s Parish Church is one of

six dedicated to the saint in the county, and

indeed the 15th century building is certainly

one of the most impressive in all Cornwall.

Because of this, when Cornwall became a

Church of England diocese in its own right in

1877, Bodmin was one of the places

considered for its new cathedral (see also St

Germans, St Columb Major and Truro).

Building began on the site of the former

Norman church in 1469 and, funded by the

townsfolk – even the local vicar gave a year’s

salary – the church was completed in 1472 at

a cost of £268. Though remodelled in the

19th century, it has retained its splendid

Norman font, whose immense bowl is

supported on five finely carved columns, and

the ivory casket that is thought to contain

the remains of St Petroc. The town is also

renowned for its abundance of holy wells;

one of them, dating from the 6th century, is

in the churchyard, along with a little well

house. Work started on the Roman Catholic St

Mary’s Church on St Mary’s Road in 1937,

having first of all been located next to the

Anglican church. It finally opened for worship

in 1965. It is unusual in that it was founded

by the Canons Regular of the Lateran.

Of the places and buildings to visit here,

Bodmin Jail, on Berrycoombe Road, is the

most interesting, a spooky, all-weather

attraction. It was the former county prison

and dates back to 1779 when it was built for

King George III, using 20,000 tons of granite

from the local quarry. The jail is menacingly

redolent of the executions that were once

guaranteed to pull the crowds. The last

hanging took place here in 1909. You can

explore parts of the original 18th century

structure, including the condemned cell,

all now considerably run down and

gloomily eerie. This too was the place

where, during the Great War, Crown

Jewels, state papers and the Domesday

Book were hidden for safe keeping.

Head north of the town and you are on

the famous Camel Trail – 18 miles of

traffic-free walking, cycling and horse

riding along the River Camel – where you

can make for the edge of Bodmin Moor or

coastwards, along the lovely Camel Estuary,

to the market town of Wadebridge and the

charming harbour at Padstow. In summer, you

can also approach the Camel Trail on steam

locomotives of the Bodmin and Wenford

Railway. There are one-off events throughout

the year, including jazz specials, fish and

chip specials, steam and diesel galas and

murder mysteries. Lovers of the days of

steam will enjoy a generous dose of nostalgia

when seeing the resident steam locomotives:

GWR pannier tank 6435, GWR prairie tank

5552, 2-8-0 tank 4247 and ex-Southern Railway

30587, a 2-4-0 well tank dating from 1874.

There are also four diesels in residence.

AROUND BODMIN

CUTMADOC

2 miles S of Bodmin off the A38

To the west of the village lies one of

Cornwall’s most absorbing country houses,

Lanhydrock House. Entered through an

imposing pinnacled gatehouse (1651),

Lanhydrock was originally constructed in the

17th century, the house was laid out on four

sides of a square, but the east wing was

removed in 1780, creating the present U-

shaped house. That was until a disastrous fire

in 1881 destroyed most of the building and

brought about the death from shock of its

owners, Viscount Clifden and his wife. The

granite exterior remains true to its original

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The Gatehouse, Lanhydrock

PENLAN EATING HOUSE

Fourwinds, nr Cardinham

A diverse eaterie,cafe by day and aninviting licensedrestaurant by night,serving fine foodcoupled with qualityservice.


11

form, retaining all the splendour while being

High Victorian in tone. Fifty rooms are open

to the public, and as well as admiring the

magnificent plaster barrel-vaulted ceiling,

depicting scenes from the Old Testament, in

the Long Gallery visitors can also see the

nursery wing and the grand dining room and

play the Steinway piano. Most illuminating of

all is the kitchen, built in the style of a

college hall with clerestory windows and

supplemented by an unending series of

dairies, sculleries, larders and pantries, with

a pit large enough to roast an entire cow.

Lanhydrock is possibly the grandest house

in Cornwall, and you should allow at least

one and a half to two hours for a complete

tour. Plus the thousand acres of wooded

parkland bordering on to the River Fowey

are worth a prolonged wander, especially in

spring for the spectacular beds of magnolias,

azaleas and rhododendrons. Catering outlets

in the servants’ quarters and old stable

block offer a variety of menus, and the shop

sells a wide range of goods, many of them

locally produced.

CARDINHAM

3 miles NE of Bodmin off the A30

A small village on the western slopes of

Bodmin Moor. St Meubred’s Parish Church is

15th century, and in its churchyard stands a

worn 10th century cross richly decorated

with intricate spirals and

rings. It was damaged during

the war by bombs intended for

Bodmin. St Meubred was one

of those obscure Cornish saints

about whom very little is

known. It is thought that he

was in fact Irish, and came to

Cornwall to preach. He was

later beheaded in Rome, and

his body was sent back to

Cardinham for burial.

Now a peaceful backwater

that is enjoyed by both walkers

and cyclists, the 650-acre

Cardinham Woods was in

medieval times the site of

Cardinham Castle, a Norman

motte and bailey castle. Belonging to the

Cardinham family, under-lords of Robert of

Mortain, Earl of Cornwall, the structure was

abandoned in the 14th century and today

only an earthwork mound remains on which a

few traces of the original keep have been

preserved. There are also the remains of an

old silver mine. This attractive and varied

woodland was acquired by the Forestry

Commission in 1922 and is managed by Forest

Enterprise for commercial forestry, producing,

among others, a high quality Douglas fir for

the British timber industry. It is a haven for a

wide variety of wildlife, with otters on the

river, red and roe deer, ravens and buzzards.

The site has several waymarked woodland

trails, and cycling is allowed on some of them.

Visitors will also find a cafe and a picnic area

with barbecue facilities.

Close by is Pinsla Garden & Nursery, a

magical space full of intense scent and colour

surrounded by wild Cornish woodland. The 1

acre garden contains herbaceous and shrub

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Camel Valley Vineyards, Nanstallon

borders, alpines and cottage garden beds,

jungle planting, paths lined with granite

boulders, a tree tunnel and a stone circle in

the meadow. The owners grow and stock a

wide range of plants in the nursery.

BLISLAND

6 miles NE of Bodmin off the A30

Found down a maze of country lanes, at the

centre of this moorland village is the tree-

lined village green which has stayed faithful

to its original Saxon layout - an uncommon

sight on this side of the River Tamar. Fine

Georgian and Victorian houses, a rectory and

an inn complete the picture but it is the

uniquely dedicated St Protus and St

Hyacinth Parish Church that takes the

attention of most visitors. A favourite of Sir

John Betjeman, who described it as ‘dazzling

and amazing’, the part-Norman building has a

bright whitewashed interior, a good wagon

roof, an unusual mock-Renaissance altar and

two fonts, one Norman and the other dating

from the 15th century.

A couple of miles further northeast, the

village of St Breward grew from the granite

quarrying industry in the area that left a

legacy of sturdy granite cottages and small,

granite-hedged fields.

WASHAWAY

5 miles NW of Bodmin on the A38

In the opposite direction to

Lanhydrock, and near

Washaway village, the mile-

long drive at Pencarrow

House might suggest

something on the same scale,

but this country house has a

very different, more intimate

feel. The Georgian building

was erected in the 1770’s by

the Molesworth-St Aubyn

family and, still living here,

they have over the years

remodelled the house on two

separate occasions. Of the

many beautiful items to be

seen on a visit to this award-

winning house, the series of family portraits,

many by eminently fashionable painters of

the time, are particularly superb.

A guide will give you the lowdown on the

family’s history and encourage you to tinkle

the piano on which Sir Arthur Sullivan, a

guest here in 1882, composed much of the

music for Iolanthe. Excellent furniture and

exquisite porcelain are also on show, along

with a collection of antique dolls. It was Sir

William Molesworth, the Secretary of State

for the Colonies, who, during Parliamentary

recesses in the mid 19th century, began the

ambitious remodelling of the gardens and

grounds. Today’s visitors benefit from his

splendid plans as this internationally

renowned garden contains over 700 different

species of rhododendron, camellia, blue

hydrangea and specimen conifers. Leave

plenty of time to explore these beautiful

wooded grounds.

NANSTALLON

2 miles W of Bodmin off the A389

Close to this village, on sunny slopes above

the River Camel, are Camel Valley

Vineyards, where red, white and sparkling

wines are produced from 20,000 vines. The

Lindo family’s vineyard is open to visitors

from April to the end of September. The

village has two routes onto the Camel Trail,

one at Boscarne, the other at Nanstallon Halt

on the old railway line.

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Royal Albert Bridge, Saltash

SALTASH

Situated on the west bank of the beautiful

River Tamar, and once the base for the

largest river steamer fleet in the southwest,

Saltash has gone through a number of names

in its 1,000-year history. It’s been called Villa

de Esse, Ash, and Assheburgh over the years.

With narrow streets that rise up steeply from

the riverbank, the town has long been the

‘Gateway to Cornwall’ for many

holidaymakers, who cross the River Tamar

into Cornwall at this point via one of the

town’s mighty bridges. The wrought-iron

Royal Albert Bridge carries the railway

while, alongside, is the much more slender

Tamar Bridge, completed in 1961. This

modern suspension road bridge replaced the

ferry service which had been in use since the

13th century. A tunnel was also constructed

to ease the ever-increasing flow of cars

through the town.

Though older than Plymouth, on the other

side of the Sound, Saltash, particularly with

the construction of the road bridge, is now

becoming almost a suburb of the city.

However, though heavily influenced by its

neighbour, Saltash has retained much of its

charm and Cornish individuality, and Saltash

people still talk of ‘going over into England’

when crossing one of the bridges.

The town’s strategic position and

maritime interests led to its involvement in

many important events. The Waterside is

considered the historical ‘heart’ of Saltash;

this is where the main trade and commerce

originated. Modern visitors should look out

for the painted mural on the side of the

Union Inn, depicting local characters and

events. During the Civil War, 1642-46, fighting

took place here on several occasions,

resulting in numerous fatalities (mostly on

the Parliamentarian side) and the destruction

of many buildings. The engineer-genius

Isambard Kingdom Brunel chose Saltash as the

site for a bridge, of unique design, to carry

the railway in to Cornwall. The Royal Albert

Bridge, Brunel’s masterpiece completed in

1859, is undoubtedly the town’s most famous

feature. On the old quayside there are

several interesting buildings to discover. The

mainly 17th century Guildhouse stands on

granite pillars and close by is Mary

Newman’s Cottage, a quaint old building

that was the home of Sir Francis Drake’s first

wife. Dating from the 15th century, the

cottage and gardens are occasionally open to

the public April to October.

Soon after the Conquest in 1066, the

Normans built a motte-and-bailey castle in a

commanding position 1.5 miles southeast of

Trematon village. Trematon Castle (not open

to the public) has walls that are over 15 feet

thick, and so secure was it that the treasures

collected by Sir Francis Drake after his trips

abroad were stored here.

AROUND SALTASH

CALLINGTON

7½ miles N of Saltash on the A388

This old market town, which lies

at the foot of Kit Hill (to the

north), began life as a Celtic

settlement called Celliwic, and

was then settled by the Saxons.

Once a prosperous mining town,

the area’s heritage, landscape

and character can be seen by

wandering around the

interesting and unusual Mural

Trail, where local scenes have

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Kit Hill Summit

been painted on the walls of the town’s

buildings by professional and amateur artists.

A booklet available from the Town Clerk’s

Office explains where the murals are, who

painted them and what they depict. There

really is something to be seen around every

corner. Callington Heritage Centre is housed

in an old cemetery chapel on Liskeard Road.

The town is the headquarters of Ginsters, the

well-known firm of pasty makers.

Overlooking the River Lynher, to the

southwest of the town, lies Cadsonbury

Hillfort - a massive Iron Age bank and ditch,

encompassing a hill, that are thought to be

the remains of the home of a local chief. To

the east of Callington lies the attractive early

16th century Dupath Chapel, a granite

building that houses Dupath Well. The waters

of the well were thought to cure whooping

cough, and were also used in baptisms held

in the chapel.

KIT HILL

8 miles N of Saltash off the B3257

Climbing to just under 1,000 feet above sea

level Kit Hill is the highest point of Hingston

Down Ridge, within the Tamar Valley Area of

Outstanding Natural Beauty. From the summit

there are outstanding views across southeast

Cornwall to Plymouth Sound, and on a clear

day south as far as the Eddystone Lighthouse

37 miles away. The abundant archaeological

remains are a reminder of the metal and

stone extractive industries, which once took

place on the hill. It was at Kit Hill in AD 835

that the Battle of Hingston Down took place,

where King Egbert of Wessex defeated

Cornish and Danish forces. In the 18th

century a man called Sir John Call built a

folly to commemorate the battle, and its

remains can still be seen.

ST ANN’S CHAPEL

7½ miles N of Saltash on the A390

The Tamar Valley Donkey Park is Cornwall’s

only donkey sanctuary situated in beautiful

Cornish countryside, with views to Plymouth

Sound, between Gunnislake and Callington. It

is home to 28 donkeys, over 20 goats, ponies,

sheep, pigs, rabbits and more. Visitors are

able to feed and pet the friendly animals. The

Donkey Drop-In all weather play barn,

provides indoor play and covered donkey rides

for wet-weather days. The sanctuary survives

only by the entry charge and the Adopt-a-

Donkey scheme. Open daily from April for the

summer season and weekends in winter.

ST MELLION

5 miles N of Saltash on the A390

Named after St Melaine, a 6th century bishop

of Rennes in France, the village is now best

known for the St Mellion International Golf

Resort. The resort was selected as the venue

for the revived English Open in 2009 and will

host it until at least 2014. The English Open

was last held at Forest of Arden in 2002 and

it is 13 years since the Cornish venue played

host to a tour event.

GUNNISLAKE

8 miles N of Saltash on the A390

Often referred to as the first village in

Cornwall, Gunnislake is a charming

community that is set in the beautiful

wooded valley of the River Tamar. In the

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COTEHELEHOUSE

St Dominick, nr Saltash

Set in a riverside estate,Cotehele has many featuresincluding Tudor fireplacesand rich hangings.


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Cotehele House, nr Calstock

1520s, Sir Piers Edgcumbe of Cotehele House

built the New Bridge, a striking 180 feet

long, seven-arched granite structure which

continues to serve as one of the major

gateways into the county. In fact, this

remained the lowest crossing of the river by

road until the early 60s when the massive

suspension bridge linking Plymouth with

Saltash was opened. The river crossing at

Gunnislake meant that the village was a

place of strategic importance, a feature

which made it the centre of bitter fighting

during the Civil War.

Part of the Tamar Valley Discovery Trail

between Plymouth and Launceston is the

Gunnislake Village Trial, which consists of

several walks between one and three miles

long with easy-moderate walking (some hills).

These walks take you past historic sites of

interest with stunning views of the River

Tamar and Valley. The trail takes in scenery

painted by JMW Turner in 1815 such as his

famous painting Crossing the Brook, a picture

of New Bridge and the surrounding valley at

Gunnislake.

CALSTOCK

6 miles NE of Saltash off the A390

An important river port since Saxon times,

the village of Calstock with its tall white

houses clings to the steep Cornish bank of

the Tamar. It was mentioned in the Domesday

Book, and was part of the Earldom of

Cornwall in the 13th century. Calstock’s

zenith as a port came in the last

century when it served as an

area of intense industrial and

mining activity, when vast

quantities of tin, granite and

copper ore were brought here

for loading on to barges to be

transported down the Tamar to

the coast and beyond. In the

countryside surrounding

Calstock the remains of old

mine workings, along with the

spoil heaps, can still be seen

along with the remains of the

village’s boat-building industry.

A mile downriver stands

Cotehele House, owned by the National Trust

since 1947, it is one of the best-preserved

and least altered medieval houses in the

country. Built largely between 1485 and 1539,

it remained in the Edgcumbe family for, 600

years though their residence at Mount

Edgcumbe (see also Cremyll) from the end of

the 17th century meant that Cotehele

remained mostly unmodified, preserving its

tranquil Tudor character. Each of the rooms

displays something that grabs the eye. The

fine arch-braced Hall, with its bare lime-ash

floor, has a rare set of folding, mid 18th

century chairs, still with their original

leather, while the Old Dining Room, hung

with Flemish tapestries, leads to the chapel

in which you can see the earliest domestic

clock in England, dating from 1485 and still

in its original position. The house also

incorporates some charming individual

features such as a secret spy-hole to the

Great Hall. Near the house, a great medieval

barn contains a gift and plant shop and a

restaurant with dishes that reflect the special

character and history of Cotehele.

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Morwellham Quay, nr Calstock

ST JOHN INN

St Johns, nr Torpoint

Beautiful country pubthat serves qualitycask ales andexcellent locallyproduced food.


14

SHEVIOCK BARTON BED &BREAKFAST

Sheviock, nr Torpoint

Fantastic bed andbreakfastaccommodationhoused in a 300 yearold building with flagstone floors and oak beams.See entry on page 127

13

The grounds are densely

wooded and full of surprises.

A mile-long walk brings you

to the working Water Mill on

the Tamar. Also along the

river, and close to the

estate’s old cider house and

restored corn mill, lies

Cotehele Quay, a busy river

port in Victorian times. The

quay buildings now house The

Discovery Centre, an art and

craft gallery and a licensed

bistro. The restored Tamar

sailing barge Shamrock is

moored alongside the

museum. Also in the grounds,

at the foot of a combe stands a tiny chapel

situated on a promontory 70 feet above the

river’s edge.

Upstream, beyond Calstock, Morwellham

Quay was another important 19th century

river port, from which the ore and minerals

extracted from the local mines was

transported to the coast. In 1844 the largest

copper lode in Europe was discovered 4 miles

from the quay, and a company called the

Devon Great Consols was formed to exploit

it. A railway was built in 1856 to bring the

ore to the quay, and another inclined plane

railway was built, passing beneath the

cottages in a specially dug tunnel. In its day,

Morwellham Quay was the greatest copper

exporting port in Britain, and supported a

population of 300 people. Today, the staff in

Victorian garb help to bring history alive.

Visitors can take a riverside tram ride and

explore the George & Charlotte copper mine;

watch blacksmiths, potters and carpenters at

work in the old cottages; say hello to the

shire horses; take a carriage ride around the

village; and make the most of the

countryside in the nature reserve, a mixture

of marshland, woodland, meadows and fields

that is designated both an Area of

Outstanding Natural Beauty and a Site of

Special Scientific Interest. There’s also an

opportunity for you to play your part!

Authentic replica costumes are available for

you to try on, while the children find out

what life was really like working on the

‘dressing-floors’ of the mine or acting as

servants in the ‘Sampler’s House’.

TORPOINT

3 miles SE of Saltash on the A374

This small town grew up around the ferry

service that began running across the

Hamoaze (as the Tamar estuary is called at

this point) between here and Devonport in

the 18th century. South of the town is a

pretty inlet of the sea known as St John’s

Lake, one of the few salt water lakes in

England. However, this can only be seen at

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French Gardens, Mount Edgcumbe

certain times as it is completely tidal and

dries out as the tide recedes.

Just 2 miles northwest of Torpoint is

Antony House and Gardens, chosen by

Director Tim Burton as a location for the 2010

Disney adaptation of Alice in Wonderland. The

estate has been transformed so visitors can

enter the oversized land of Alice: have a go at

croquet; look out for the giant chessboard;

become the queen, king or a knight; enjoy tea

parties; meet the Mad Hatter, Cheshire Cat

and Alice herself. When the house is open,

you’ll be able to spot several of the film’s

locations and read about the changes that

were made during the filming, and there’s a

recreation of Alice’s bedroom where children

are able to play.

CREMYLL

4 miles SE of Saltash on the B3247

This village, which is linked to Plymouth by a

foot ferry first started in about 1204, is an

excellent place from which to explore Mount

Edgcumbe House, the 16th century home of

the Earls of Edgcumbe who moved here from

Cotehele House, near Calstock. Mount

Edgcumbe is a winning combination of Tudor

house, landscaped gardens and acres of

beautiful rolling parkland alongside the sea.

Though the house is a reconstruction of the

Tudor original that was gutted by incendiary

bombs in 1941, the inside is predominantely

18th century, with authentic Regency

furniture in the elegantly restored rooms.

The contents include paintings by Sir Joshua

Reynolds, Irish Bronze Age horns, 16th

century tapestries and 18th century Chinese

and Plymouth porcelain. In the adjacent

Earl’s Garden are several ancient and rare

trees, notably a 400-year-old lime and a

Mexican pine. The extensive, magnificent

grounds, which incorporate land from Cremyll

westwards along the peninsula to

Tregonhawke, include the historic 18th

century gardens that contain an orangery,

and Italian, French, English, American and

New Zealand gardens. Since 1976, Mount

Edgcumbe has housed the National Camellia

Collection. The Country Park, which takes in

a stretch of heritage coastline, has freely

roaming fallow deer and numerous buildings

sited to create views and atmosphere.

MAKER

5 miles S of Saltash off the B3247

Dating from the 15th century and retaining

much of its original charm, Maker church,

whose name is derived from a Cornish word

meaning ‘ruin’, was comprehensively

restored in the 19th century. It is the family

church of the Edgcumbes, and inside the

church is a copy of a portrait of the early

18th century vicar here, Thomas Smart. It is

not the subject but the artist that makes

this work particularly

special: at the age of 12,

Joshua Reynolds made

drawings of the vicar on the

back of his hymn book

during a service and then,

back at a Cremyll boatyard,

painted the original portrait

on to canvas.

Just north of the church,

surrounded by woodland

and hidden within an

oratory, lies St Julian’s

Well, which is dedicated to

the 5th century saint who

is, aptly for this area, the

patron saint of ferrymen.

Also known as ‘the poor

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WRINGFORD DOWN

Forder, nr Rame

Fantastic self-cateringand bed & breakfastaccommodationlocated on thepicturesque RamePeninsula.


15

Kingsand Beach

man’, he was a popular saint in

Western Europe, which has also

made him the patron saint of

innkeepers and - curiously

enough - circus performers.

CAWSAND AND

KINGSAND

5½ miles S of Saltash off the B3247

Cawsand’s narrow lanes of

colour-washed and red-stone

cottages descend to a quay and

beaches in a protected bay.

Until 1830, the Devon/Cornwall

border divided the village from

Kingsand, its slightly smaller

twin village just a few minutes’ walk north

up the coast and marked by its Institute clock

tower right on the sea.

From Cawsand or Kingsand, you can follow

the coast path south around the peninsula for

sweeping views of Plymouth Sound and the

open sea from the headlands of Penlee Point

and Rame Head, while both villages lie just a

mile east of the extensive sands of Whitsand

Bay, the best bathing beach in the area.

RAME


Positioned at the southeastern end of

Whitsand Bay and the southernmost point of

Mount Edgcumbe Country Park, spectacular

Rame Head guards the entrance to Plymouth

Sound. There are, naturally, superb views

from the 400 feet cliffs but this beautiful

headland has its own special feature - the

ruined 14th century St Michael’s Chapel,

from which a blazing beacon told of the

coming of the Armada. In the little hamlet of

Rame itself is the older, 13th century Church

of St Germanus, which is still lit by candles;

for centuries its west tower and spire acted

as a landmark for sailors.

WHITSAND BAY


Running between the hamlet of Portwrinkle

and Rame Head, this impressive stretch of

beach is more a series of coves than one

continuous expanse of sand. There are

various paths leading down the slate cliffs -

some of which are over 250 feet high - to the

gently curving bay. Tregonhawke is the main

beach in the area and has a small cafe and

toilet facilities. Access to the beach is via a

narrow, steep cliff path. Whitsand Bay Surf

Lifesaving Club is located on the beach. With

the wind blowing from the southwest, the 4

miles of flat sands here get long ranks of

rollers, but as the currents can be strong,

swimmers should take care not to go too far

out. The South West Coast Path runs the

length of the bay.

PORTWRINKLE

5 miles SW of Saltash on the B3247

This small seaside village on Whitsand Bay

developed around its medieval harbour and

once had a thriving fishing industry.

Portwrinkle has two sand-and-shingle

beaches with rock pools. If you walk east

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HAY LAKE FARM

Landrake

A small holdingofferingcomfortable bedand breakfastaccommodationwith a spectacularbreakfast and warm welcome.


17

TRENETHICK FARMHOUSE B&B

Trerulefoot

A real Cornishexperience for youand your horse.


16

Port Eliot House, St Germans

out of the village towards Crafthole, a

signpost points you towards Tregantle

Fort, built between 1858 and 1868 as

part of the Plymouth defences.

ST GERMANS

4 miles W of Saltash on the B3249

The village of St Germans is on the

River Tiddy, part of the beautiful

estuary of the Lynher which joins the

Tamar just downriver from Saltash. The

glory of the village is its magnificent

Norman church, St Germans Parish

Church named after St Germanus,

bishop of Auxerre in France in the 4th and 5th

centuries. It stands on the site of a Saxon

cathedral and was the largest church in the

county until the construction of Truro

Cathedral in 1910. In 1877, when Cornwall

became a diocese in its own right, St Germans

was one of the places that put its name

forward as the site of the cathedral (see also

Bodmin, St Columb Major and Truro).

Inside the church are several striking

features, the most impressive being the

Burne-Jones east window and the monument

to Edward Eliot. The Eliot family acquired

the priory shortly after Henry VIII’s

Dissolution of the Monasteries and renamed

their new estate Port Eliot. Port Eliot and

grounds, opened to the public for the first

time in March 2008. Home to the Eliot family

since 1564, Port Eliot is one of the most

magical and hidden stately homes in England

with a long and fascinating history. The

present Grade 1 listed house, with its Gothic

style turrets, is largely 19th century, although

it does include fragments of the ancient

monastic buildings. The grounds date from

the late 18th century when Humphry Repton

laid them out. Currently the 10th Earl and

Countess of St Germans occupy the house

although the contents of the house reflect

the accumulation of 30 generations of the

ever prospering Eliot family. Amongst the

family’s collections there are family portraits

and a seascape showing Plymouth by Joshua

Reynolds and several interesting pieces of

museum quality furniture including an early

Boule armoire. The park and more than 100

acres of gardens include a cast rhododendron

garden, a maze, a bowling green, orangery,

arboretum and magnificent view of the

estuary and a Brunel viaduct. Considered one

of the most magical gardens in England, the

house and grounds remain secluded from the

outside world. It is a tranquil haven.

Recently, it has been the venue for a literary

festival, the Port Eliot Lit Fest.

Another of St Germans’ exceptional

buildings, the Sir William Moyle’s

Almshouses, were built in 1583 to an

unusual design - the row has prominent

gables and a long first-floor balcony which is

reached by a sturdy external staircase.

Surrounded by neatly kept stone cottages

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DAISY’S CAFE

East Looe

Have a pit stop in Looeat Daisy’s café wherekids, dogs and muddyboots are all welcome.


19

KELLY’S OF LOOE

East Looe

Award winning and well lovedthis popular fish restaurant andtakeaway offers excellenthospitality and excellentfacilities for all, year round.


18

Looe Harbour

set in flower filled gardens, the almshouses

were restored in 1967.

LOOE

Looe was drawing crowds as early as 1800

when the first bathing machines were wheeled

out, but the arrival of the railway in 1879 was

what really packed its beaches. The two Looe

rivers, the East Looe and the West Looe,

create a tidal harbour which has been a

fishing and seafaring port from at least the

beginning of the 13th century through to the

19th century, when stone and copper from the

quarries and mines in the north were shipped

for export. Even today, it still has Cornwall’s

second largest fishing fleet. Originally two

separate towns called East Looe and West

Looe which faced each other across the

narrow estuary, they were first connected by a

bridge of 14 arches in about 1411, the first

estuary bridge in Cornwall. They were finally,

officially incorporated in 1883.

The present day seven-arched bridge dates

from 1853 and carries the main road linking

the two towns. Of the two distinct parts of

the town, East Looe is where most of the

action takes place and also the older, with its

narrow cobbled streets and twisting

alleyways. Housed in one of the town’s

several old buildings is the Old Guildhall

Museum in Higher Market Street, East Looe. It

dates from 1500, and details much of Looe’s

history along with that of the surrounding

area. The building’s old magistrates’ bench

can still be seen here as well as three log

books of Looe’s lifeboats, the official town

regalia and a collection of minerals and ores.

Aside from the museum, it’s East Looe’s long

harbour that holds all the interest.

Looe is also an important venue for sailing

events and is the traditional home of the

Redwing. It was a style of boat designed in

the 1930s by Uffa Fox specifically for Looe

Bay, and was reasonably cheap to build while

still seaworthy enough to cope with the

Cornwall coast. Swimming, sunbathing,

fishing and boat trips are other popular ways

of spending a few happy hours, while the

more intrepid can don mask and snorkel and

take to the water to visit the wrecks that lie

scattered along the coast. Among these is

HMS Scylla, an ex-naval frigate deliberately

sunk in 2004 to become a haven for divers.

One of the most popular excursions is out

to Looe Island (variously known as St

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WINDERMERE HOUSE

St Martins, nr Looe

Alun and Zelia wouldlike to offer you aclean, quiet andrelaxed bed andbreakfast holiday totour Cornwall.See entry on page 133

22

POLRAEN COUNTRY HOUSE

Sandplace, nr Looe

Known for warm friendlyhospitality, a relaxedcountry house atmosphere,and excellent food, PolraenCountry House Hotel offersan ideal escape from thestresses and strains of everyday life.See entry on page 133

21

OLD LANWARNICK

Duloe

Where the beauty,mystery & ancienthistory ofCornwall meetsmodern luxuryliving!


23

George’s Island and St Nicholas’ Island), a

mile or so offshore. The island comprises 22

acres of woodland and was made famous by

the Atkins sisters, Babs and Evelyn, in their

books We Bought an Island and Tales from

our Cornish Island. Since their deaths, it has

been handed over to the Cornwall Wildlife

Trust. A natural sanctuary for sea and

woodland birds and one-time haunt of

smugglers, its known history includes a

Benedictine chapel built in 1139 of which

only a few stones remain visible. Legend has

it that Joseph of Arimathea landed here with

the child Christ. Looe Island can be reached,

throughout the summer, when the Wildlife

Trust’s Islander boat provides trips across.

In the West Looe Valley, Kilminorth

Woods are a Local Nature Reserve rich in

woodland plants and wildlife. The area has

been wooded since at least 1600, and also

here is the Ancient Monument known as the

Giant’s Hedge, a 6th century bank about 15

miles long between Looe and Lerryn,

probably built to defend the territory of a

local chieftain.

Overlooking Looe Bay is the famous

Monkey Sanctuary - for over 40 years the

Victorian house and gardens have been home

to several different species of monkeys,

including Amazonian Woolly, Capuchin and

Barbary Macaques. This is an active rescue

centre, and experienced keepers are on hand

to give talks while indoor displays explain

more about the monkeys’ life and their

natural habitat. The gardens around the

sanctuary are home to many native plants

and insects. Plants for the monkeys to eat

are grown in a forest garden, and the Tree

Top cafe takes care of hungry humans.

AROUND LOOE

SEATON

3 miles E of Looe on the B3247

Seaton is a small village to the east of Looe

at the mouth of the River Axe. The mile long

beach is excellent for watersports and is

popular with dog owners. There is also the

Seaton Valley Countryside Park, a woodland

walk along a river valley. It is now a local

nature reserve with a level path that is

suitable for wheelchairs. Seaton’s unique

tramway runs inland, along the Axe Estuary,

to the medieval market town of Colyton.

DULOE

3½ miles N of Looe on the B3254

Nestled unobtrusively in the corner of a field

beside a Cornish hedge stands Duloe Stone

Circle, the smallest stone circle in Cornwall.

TOM SAWYERS TAVERN

Hannafore

With breathtakingviews, fine cuisine, awell stocked bar andtwo stunning lettingrooms, this inn reallyhas it all.


20

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Duloe Stone Circle

ST KEYNE

5 miles N of Looe on the B3254

St Keyne, anciently called Lametton, is

believed to be named after one of the

daughters of King Brychan Brycheiniog, a

Welsh king. Her famous holy well, St Keyne’s

Well, lies a mile southeast of the village. In

Victorian times the well had the reputation

of conferring supremacy to the marriage

partner who first tasted it. Robert Southey

(1774-1843) the poet even wrote a famous

poem about it.

One of the more curious episodes in St

Keyne’s history took place during the reign of

Catholic Mary Tudor, when the local rector

and his wife (who had married during the

reign of Protestant Edward VI) were dragged

from their bed in the middle of the night and

placed in the village stocks.

The only other distraction hereabouts lies

at the exhibition of Magnificent Music

Machines, where an hour’s enthusiastic tour

brings you face-to-face with a delicate 1895

polyphon, a Wurlitzer cinema organ from

1929 and various fairground and cafe organs.

LISKEARD

7 miles N of Looe on the B3254

A picturesque and lively market town,

situated on undulating ground between the

valleys of the East Looe and Seaton rivers,

Liskeard was one of Cornwall’s five medieval

stannary towns - the others being Bodmin,

Some 38 feet in diameter with

seven (of eight) standing quartz

stones, this circle is said to be

older than Stonehenge. The

present setting is the result of

restoration in the last century

when a burial urn of the late

Bronze Age (2000-500 BC) was

found at the base of one of the

stones. The circle can be

accessed via a signposted track

between two houses in Higher

Stonetown to the southwest.

The Duloe Torque, a gold

bracelet from the Bronze Age,

was discovered in a field near

the village, and is now in Truro Museum.

PELYNT

4 miles W of Looe on the B3359

The Parish Church of St Nonna, in this large

and rather exposed village, not only has an

unusual classical aisle (dated 1680) but it is

also associated with Bishop Trelawny (1650-

1721). Hawker’s famous song Song of the

Western Men, which is almost a Cornish

‘national’ anthem, recounts the story of

Bishop Sir Jonathan Trelawny’s incarceration

in the Tower of London. As well as seeing the

chair put inside this 14th century church in

his memory, there is also a fragment of the

bishop’s coffin and his pastoral staff. The

Trelawney family lived at Trelawne, one and

a half miles south east of the village.

LANREATH

5 miles NW of Looe on the B3359

The village of Lanreath has been awarded the

‘Best Kept Village’ accolade in Cornwall.

Walking around this pretty village you can

enjoy the old ‘cob cottages’ on Fore Street.

They were built using material from the

earth. Many originally would have sported a

thatched roof. In 1620, the Punch Bowl Inn

became the very first licensed public house in

the Land, parts of the building date back

even earlier. The building has served

variously as a courthouse, coaching inn and

smugglers den.

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CORNISH QUAY HOLIDAYS

Liskeard

Offering a series of over50+ holiday cottagesand watersideproperties, this businessis superb. Each buildingis fabulously decoratedand finished to a high standard.


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THE HIGHWAYMAN

Dobwalls, nr Liskeard

This is a delightfulestablishment, servinggreat food atphenomenal prices.Popular with both localsand visitors alike.


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Lostwithiel, Truro and Helston.

The name stannary comes from the Latin

word for tin, ‘stannum’, and these five towns

were the only places licensed to weigh and

stamp the metal. However, the town is an

ancient one, and was mentioned in the

Domesday Book in 1086. In 1240 it was

granted its first Royal Charter by Robert, Earl

of Cornwall, brother of Henry III, giving it the

right to hold a market. In 1294 the town sent

two members to parliament and continued to

do so until the Reform Act of 1832. Notable

among the MPs were Edward Gibbon, author

of The Decline and Fall of the Roman

Empire, and Isaac Foot, father of the famous

Foot family.

The town has a long history as a centre

for mineral extraction and, for centuries, the

medieval Cornish tinners brought their

smelted tin down from Bodmin Moor for

weighing, stamping and taxing. The

construction of the Liskeard and Looe Union

Canal, linking the town with Looe, saw, by

the 19th century, great quantities of both

copper ore and granite also passing through

Liskeard bound for the coast and beyond. In

the 1850s, the canal was replaced by the

Looe Valley branch of the Great Western

Railway and a scenic stretch of the line is

still open today, though the industrial cargoes

have long since been replaced by passenger

carriages. There are still remnants of the

canal to be seen, which was finally drained

and abandoned in 1910. An annual walking

festival using the railway takes place each

September. The Looe Valley Line starts from

its own station in Liskeard and drops under

the main line to the quiet junction at

Coombe. Here the driver and guard change

ends and the train reverses along the East

Looe Valley for the 7-mile trip to Looe.

Though a small town, Liskeard boasts two

sets of public buildings which are a reminder

of its past importance and prosperity. The

Guildhall was constructed in 1859 while the

Public Hall opened in 1890 and is still used as

the office of the town council. Adjacent to

the Passmore-Edwards Public Library stands

Stuart House, a handsome Jacobean

residence where Charles I stayed in 1644

while engaged in a campaign against the

Parliamentarian forces at nearby Lostwithiel.

St Martin’s Parish Church is also worthy of a

mention as, not only is it the second largest

parish church in Cornwall, but this mainly

15th century building stands on Norman

foundations, and has an early 20th century

tower that blends in perfectly with the

medieval architecture. In June 2002 HRH

Prince Charles formally opened the Liskeard

and District Museum, housed in the former

Foresters Hall. It has a lively display of

artefacts connected with the town. Finally,

one of Liskeard’s most curious features can

be found in Well Lane, where an arched

grotto marks the site of Pipe Well, also

known as the Well of St Martin’s and the Well

of Lyskerit, a medieval spring that is reputed

to have curative powers, especially afflictions

of the eyes. The well has never been known

to run dry.

WADEBRIDGE

Wadebridge, one of north Cornwall’s main

market towns and gateway to the Camel

Trail, is not only attractive but also renowned

for its craftware. One of the earliest

recorded mentions of the town of

Wadebridge, was in 1313 when a market and

two fairs were granted to Wade – the name of

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Royal Cornwall Show, Wadebridge

Wadebridge before the bridge was built. At

this time the town was in two parishes,

Egloshayle and St Breock, either side of the

river Camel. There were also two chapels, St

Michael’s on the west side and King’s chapel

on the east. Travellers gave thanks at both

sides after a safe crossing. A major

development occurred in the next century.

The bridge, which must have revolutionised

life in the town, was built by the Reverend

Lovibond in 1460 and has 17 arches along its

320 feet length. Legend has it that it was built

on wool sacks or bales but it seems more

likely that this suggestion, that the bridge was

‘built on wool’, means that the money used

from its construction came from the wealth of

the wool trade. So important was the bridge

that Oliver Cromwell himself came with 1,500

troops to take control of it in 1646.

The bridge still carries the main road

which links the town’s two ancient parishes.

The churches of these two parishes can still

be seen today: 13th century St Breock’s

Parish Church stands in a picturesque

wooded valley that is known as Nancient

(from the Cornish for ‘holy

well’) while across the river

from the main town, stands

St Petroc’s Parish Church, in

Egloshayle, the church at the

centre of Reverend Lovibond’s

ministry and to which he

donated the money to build

the imposing 80 feet tower.

To the southwest of St

Breock lies St Breock Downs.

In the heart of this exposed

land stands the ancient St

Breock Downs Monolith

(English Heritage), a striking

Bronze Age standing stone

that was originally 16 feet high and now

weighs at least 16.5 tons, making it the

heaviest in the county. It is also known as the

Men Gurta (the Stone of Waiting). Other

prehistoric remains, such as the Nine

Maidens, a row of nine stones dating from

the Bronze Age, can also be found on the

downs.

The town’s former railway station is now

home to the John Betjeman Centre

dedicated to the life and work of the much-

loved Poet Laureate. The main building was

formerly the Old Wadebridge Station, used by

both Great Western and Southern Railways.

The last passenger train left Wadebridge for

Bodmin in January 1967, and after years of

neglect the building re-opened as a day

recreation centre. It opened in 1988 and a

new building was added in 1991. The

Memorabilia Room contains a variety of

personal mementos, drafts of his works,

academic honours and furniture that

belonged to the author.

Although the railway line, which opened in

1899, closed in the 1960s, a stretch of the

trackbed has been used to create the superb

Camel Trail. The trail leads up into the

foothills of Bodmin Moor, to the east of

Wadebridge, whilst to the west the path

follows the River Camel to Padstow through an

area that is rich in wildlife and, particularly,

in wading birds such as herons. Wadebridge is

more or less in the middle of the Camel Trail,

which is part of the Cornish Way, a network of

cycle routes covering Cornwall.

BRIDGE ON WOOL

Wadebridge

This property is beautifully decorated and offersgreat food, drink and bed andbreakfast accommodation,perfect for families and thosewishing to explore the historyof Wadebrudge


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BLUETOMATO

Rock

Looking out across thewater towards Padstow,the only café in Rockserves delicious homecooked food year roundfrom its sunny seaside terrace.


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Sir John Betjeman’s Grave, St Enodoc

AROUND WADEBRIDGE

ROCK

4 miles NW of Wadebridge off the B3314

Rock could hardly be less appropriately

named as its popularity is largely due to the

long stretches of find sandy beaches washed

by the tidal waters of the Camel estuary.

Rightly acclaimed as one of the major

watersports centres in Cornwall, sailing,

windsurfing, water skiing, canoeing and

rowing are all activities that can be carried

on in the relatively calm waters of the

estuary. Also known as ‘Little Chelsea’, Rock

attracts the young and posh from London.

The Black Tor ferry runs from Rock to

Padstow all year round during daylight hours

and there is a water taxi available for late

night revellers. With the increase in water

activities, the RNLI have now stationed a D

Class lifeboat on the ferry beach, providing

cover in case of emergencies. Open-air

readings of the poetry of Sir John Betjeman

are held during the summer on Brea Hill

at Rock.

TREBETHERICK


The beach at Trebetherick is well known for

its fine bathing and excellent surfing. Few

people are tempted away from the sand and

sea to visit the 13th century St Enodoc Parish

Church, which stands, enigmatically, among

the sand dunes above Daymer Bay. So invasive

were the surrounding sand dunes that it was

often necessary to enter through the roof for

services, as a result of this, the church was

once known locally as ‘Sinking Neddy’, though

some say that this is no more than a fanciful

tale. The sand was finally cleared away in the

1860s, when the church was restored, and the

bell in the tower, which came from an Italian

ship that was wrecked nearby, was added in

1875. The beautiful churchyard contains many

graves of shipwrecked mariners who came to

grief on the local sandbank known as Doom

Bar or at other treacherous places along this

stretch of coast.

What draws most people to the quiet

place of Trebetherick is Sir John Betjeman’s

Grave, just inside the gate. The fondly

remembered Poet Laureate spent many of his

childhood holidays in the villages and coves

around the Camel Estuary and his affection

for the local people and the surrounding

countryside was the inspiration for many of

his works. One of his most famous poems,

simply called Trebetherick, recalls his

boyhood days spent here.

POLZEATH


Polzeath ‘the thumping heart of cool

Cornwall’ according to the Sunday Times, has

a magnificent surfing beach known to be one

of Cornwall’s finest. Tucked just inside the

Camel Estuary, the combination of Atlantic

swells and the gradually shelving, sandy

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Port Isaac Harbourbeach means the long, slow breaking

waves produce ideal conditions for

improving your surfing skills at every

level from novice to advanced.

To the north of the village, and

much loved by Sir John Betjeman, is

wonderful walking country that takes

in the cliffs and farmland of Pentire

Point and Rumps Point. From the

headland of Pentire Point, views

unfold for miles over the offshore

islets of the Mouls and Newland, with

their populations of grey seals and

puffins. In the 1930s, Pentire Head

was saved from commercial

development thanks to local fundraisers who

bought the land and donated it to the

National Trust. Half a mile to the east, the

scanty remains of an Iron Age fort stand on

the humpy back of Rumps Point.

PORT QUIN

5 miles N of Wadebridge off the B3314

This tiny hamlet, along with its small shingle

cove, suffered greatly in the 19th century

when the railways took away the slate trade

from its once busy quay. The demise of the

port was so swift that, at one time, outsiders

thought that the entire population of Port

Quin had been washed away in a great storm.

The headland on the south side of Port

Quin is known as Doyden Point, which is

picturesquely ornamented with a 19th

century castle folly once used for gambling

parties. Now it is a National Trust holiday

property, as is nearby Doyden House.

PORT ISAAC

5 miles N of Wadebridge on the B3267

An inspiration for artists, writers, and poets

for centuries, this is one of the most

beautiful and unspoilt parts of Cornwall. Port

Isaac is a wonderful old-world fishing village

that is so charming everyone falls in love

with the place. The character of the village

permeates the air and its dramatic setting,

under high, rocky cliffs gives the whole area

a timeless feel.

At one time it exported corn, which is

how it got its name, ‘Porth Izic’, meaning the

‘port of corn’. A busy port since the Middle

Ages, fishing is still an important industry

here, though the heyday of Port Isaac was in

the 19th century when not only fish, but

cargoes of stone, coal, timber and pottery

were loaded and unloaded on the quayside.

Huge quantities of pilchard were landed and

processed here and, after the arrival of the

railway, these were gutted and packed in the

village’s many fish cellars before being

dispatched by train to London and beyond.

One of these old cellars is now an RNLI

inshore D class lifeboat station, while other

cellars have been put to a variety of uses.

Port Isaac has seen lifeboats launched off the

north Cornish coast for over 100 years. At the

harbour, known locally as the Platt,

fishermen still land their catches and the

village becomes a hive of activity.

Port Isaac has been the focus of two TV

series. The BBC costume drama Poldark,

based on the novels by Winston Graham, was

one of the most successful British TV

adaptations ever, which was sold to over 40

countries. With 29 episodes broadcast

between 1975 and 1977, Port Isaac starred as

a frequent location. More recently the village

was central to the ITV series, Doc Martin,

starring Martin Clunes, going by the fictional

name of ‘Portwenn’.

Fisherman’s Friends are a 10-man sea-

shanty singing group, all of whom grew up

within half a mile of Port Isaac harbour, and

several with links to the sea. Having sung for

fun since 1995, they landed a major record

deal in 2010 after being spotted in a pub by a

holidaying music mogul.

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Long Cross Victorian Gardens, Trelightssouth aisle are 15th century.

The bench ends date from the

15th century, and are the

church’s greatest glory. One

represents Adam and Eve, while

another represents Henry II,

the huge variety of these rich

carvings are worthy of close

study. The church also owns

three ‘Vinegar Bibles’ printed

in 1717, which, instead of

having ‘The Parable of the

Vineyard’ in Chapter 20 of St

Luke’s Gospel has instead ‘The

Parable of the Vinegar’. As the

printer’s name was John

Baskett, and there were many other

misprints in this edition, it has been called

‘a Baskett full of errors’. The Vinegar Bibles

can be viewed by arrangement.

An attraction that brings families to St

Miniver is the Porteath Bee Centre. One of

the simplest and pleasurable aspects here is

that it gives you a chance to observe a

swarm of bees going about their business.

And best of all there is no risk of getting

stung! The exhibition opens to the public

from Easter to October.

ST ENDELLION

4 miles N of Wadebridge on the B3314

This charming village boasts the particularly

interesting Parish Church of St Endelienta,

built of Lundy Island granite, which houses a

major work of the sculptor known as the

Master of St Endellion. An anonymous artist

in every aspect of his life, the Master of St

Endellion has, however, been immortalised by

his superb tomb, which is beautifully carved

in black Catacleuse stone. The church itself

is dedicated to St Endelienta, a Celtic saint

who lived solely, so it is said, on cow’s milk.

When a local lord killed her cow in a dispute

with a local farmer, he was himself killed by

King Arthur, who was St Endelienta’s

godfather. She was able to bring both the

cow and the lord back to life. When she died

a cart pulled by an ox carried her body, as

she had decreed, and when it stopped, that

was to be the place of her shrine. The church

PORT GAVERNE

5 miles N of Wadebridge off the B3267

Port Gaverne, sister cove to Port Isaac, a

busy fishing port in the 19th century where

slate was shipped out, and all kinds of

merchandise landed for local use, is now a

peaceful hamlet with a quiet, sheltered

beach and green headlands. One of the

safest beaches along the north Cornwall

coast, Port Gaverne beach is pebbled and, at

low tide, an expanse of sand dotted with

rock pools is revealed.

TRELIGHTS

4½ miles N of Wadebridge off the B3314

Close to the village lies the Long Cross

Victorian Gardens, the only public gardens

on the north Cornish coast. A real garden

lover’s delight, they remain in the original

Victorian garden layout and retain their

original splendour.

ST MINVER


The village is visited mainly because of St

Menefreda’s Parish Church. A church

certainly stood here in Saxon times, though

the present one dates at least from the mid

13th century, when William of Saint

Menefreda paid homage to the Prior of

Bodmin. The slate pillars in the north aisle

are Norman, and the granite pillars of the

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THE CORNISH ARMS

Pendoggett

Authentic Thai food &traditional pub grub.Accommodationavailable, all with en-suites

Entry on page 139

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THE LONDON INN

Padstow

This charming andhistorical inn offersdelicious locally sourcedmeals, real ale andcomfortableaccommodation just astone’s throw from the harbour.See entry on page 140

29

THE GOLDEN LION PUB

Padstow

The stable ofPadstow’s original Ossand a key part of the‘Obby’Oss festival.

See entry on page

141

30

has a long tradition of bell-ringing and is also

the venue of the St Endellion Music Festivals

which take place at Easter and in the summer

every year, bringing together a wide range of

exciting musicians from all over the world. It

was at St Endelienta’s that Sir John Betjeman

regularly worshipped, he wrote: ‘Inside, the

church gives the impression that it goes on

praying night and day, whether there are

people in it or not’.

ST KEW

3½ miles NE of Wadebridge off the A39

The delightful village of St Kew is full of

character and derives its name from the 5th

century Saint Cywa or Kew, possibly the sister

of Docco or Docuin, of Gwent in southeast

Wales, who founded a monastery at or near

the village. The monastery founded by St Kew

is believed to have been destroyed circa

AD958-975 during the Saxon invasion of

Cornwall under King Edgar. The later 15th

century St Kew and St Doghow Parish

Church can be found in a wooded hollow,

along with the large late Georgian rectory

and an Elizabethan inn.

The village is also home to an Ogham

Stone, an unusual feature in Cornwall and

one that is more commonly associated with

southwest Ireland. Given its name because it

is inscribed with the Ines of Ogham script,

the stone also bears a Latin inscription.

PADSTOW

Padstow lies on the Camel Estuary, about 7

miles from Wadebridge. The area is one of

considerable natural beauty with beautiful

bays, golden beaches and many interesting

walks, particularly along the Coastal

Footpath. In fact, Padstow is the start of two

of the West Country’s most famous long-

distance paths: the 17-mile Camel Trail and

the 30-mile Saints Way across the peninsula

to Fowey.

The site of Padstow was well chosen by its

forefathers. For many centuries, Padstow’s

sheltered position in a narrow gulley on the

western side of the Camel estuary has made

it a welcome haven for vessels seeking

respite from the perils of the sea. It has the

only safe harbour along this stretch of the

North Cornwall coast, after the rocks,

currents and winds of the river mouth have

been negotiated. The town has been settled

by many different people over the years

including the prehistoric Beaker folk,

Romans, Celtic saints and marauding Vikings.

However, the silting up of the River Camel in

the 19th century created a new hazard for

shipping coming in and out of Padstow

harbour and the evocatively named Doom

Bar, which restricts entry into the estuary

mouth, effectively put an end to this ancient

settlement continuing as a major port. It is

said that the Doom Bar is the result of a

mermaid’s curse. The story goes that there

was once a merry mermaid who watched over

the vessels that went in and out of Padstow.

One day, a sailor on a visiting boat shot her.

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Padstow Inner Harbour

The mermaid’s curse was that the harbour

would become desolate from that time on.

Shortly after, a great storm came wrecking

many of the ships in the harbour and

throwing up the sandbank. In 1827 the first

lifeboat was stationed at Padstow in an effort

to make it safer. However, the silting up also

necessitated moving the Padstow lifeboat on

to the open sea, at Trevose Head, five miles

away. The new RNLI lifeboat station at

Padstow was completed in 2006 and the

Tamar Lifeboat Spirit of Padstow was placed

on service shortly after.

Padstow was originally called Petroc-stow,

after the missionary St Petroc. Legend has it

that St Petroc, possibly one of the most

important of the Cornish saints, arrived from

Ireland around AD520 and built a monastery

on the hill above the harbour. The son of a

Welsh chieftain, St Petroc, like St Francis of

Assisi, had a special empathy with animals

and according to legend drew the splinter

from the eye of a dragon, saved a deer from

a hunt and, most spectacularly, rescued a sea

monster trapped in a lake. Before moving on

to Bodmin Moor to continue his missionary

work, St Petroc founded a Celtic monastery

here and St Petroc Major Parish Church still

bears his name. On his death, St Petroc was

buried in Padstow and subsequently, in the

12th century, his bones were transferred to St

Petroc’s Church in Bodmin, where they were

placed in an ivory casket, which can still be

seen today. The present building dates from

the 13th and 14th centuries and, as well as

the octagonal font of Catacleuse stone

carved by the Master of St

Endellion, there is a striking

Elizabethan pulpit and some

rather amusing bench ends,

depicting scenes such as a fox

preaching to a congregation of

geese. The walls are lined with

monuments to the local

Prideaux family, who still

occupy nearby Prideaux Place.

Beginning at the door of the

church is the Saints Way, a

footpath that follows the route

taken by travellers and pilgrims

crossing Cornwall on their way

from Brittany to Ireland.

On the northern outskirts of Padstow

(follow the brown signs off the B3276) stands

Prideaux Place, a superbly preserved

example of an Elizabethan mansion that for

over 400 years has been the home of the

Prideaux-Brune family. This E-shaped house

was completed in 1592, with later additions

and alterations in a variety of architectural

styles. In the 18th century Edmund Prideaux

added the formal Italian gardens, and in 1810

Edmund’s grandson Charles extended and

altered the house in the Gothic style, which

was fashionable at the time due to the

building of Strawberry Hill at Richmond near

London. Inside, you’ll find grand staircases

and richly furnished rooms full of portraits

and with fantastically ornate ceilings, while

outside there are the formal gardens, and a

deer park affording long views over the

Camel estuary. Also in the grounds are a

temple, Roman antiquities, a 9th century

Cornish cross and the newly restored stables

with their plaster coat of arms and two

exhibitions - one of old farm equipment, the

other of past film location work at the house.

Peter O’Toole, Joanna Lumley, Ralph Fiennes,

Helena Bonham Carter, Mel Smith, Ben

Kingsley and Richard E Grant have all acted

at Prideaux Place.

Tourism arrived in Padstow with the

railway in 1899, with the Atlantic Express

running a regular service between London

and Padstow. Today, Padstow’s harbour and

nearby shopping streets throng with visitors

throughout the summer who come here to

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St Issey Parish Church

see the narrow alleyways and tightly packed

slate hung buildings of the old quarter, which

has managed to retain much of its medieval

character. There is a regular ferry across the

river to Rock (see also Rock), a village that

has lately been all but taken over by the

young and posh from London. The influence

of the sea is never far away in Padstow and,

more recently, it has become linked with

seafood and the best and most famous of

Rick Stein’s gastronomic outlets, well worth

the splurge.

Any exploration of Padstow should begin at

the town’s focal point, its Harbour, which is

now home to a fishing fleet and filled with

pleasure boats of all descriptions. Here can be

found many of Padstow’s older buildings

including, on the South Quay, Raleigh’s

Cottage where Sir Walter Raleigh lived when

he was Warden of Cornwall, and the minute

Harbour Cottage. Raleigh’s Court House,

where he collected the taxes and dues, stands

close by beside the river. A popular attraction

here is the National Lobster Hatchery, a

centre filled with information about lobsters;

visitors can see lobsters developing from an

egg, still attached to a female, into a juvenile

ready to be released into the wild. On North

Quay is the 15th century Abbey House, now a

private residence but once a meeting place for

local merchants.

Padstow is famed for its May Day

celebrations, the origins of which go back to

pagan times. Beginning at midnight on the eve

of May Day and lasting throughout May 1, the

people of Padstow follow the Obby Oss, - a

man in a black frame-hung cape and wearing a

groteseque mask - around the streets of the

town. It is one of the oldest May Day

traditions in Europe and consists of much

singing, dancing and general merry making.

AROUND PADSTOW

TREDINNICK

3 miles S of Padstow off the A39

To the south of this small stone-built village

lies Cornwall’s Crealy Great Adventure Park

- one of the county’s top days out for the

family. ‘Whisperings from the Past’ horse

show gives you the chance to get up close

and personal with equine giants and

miniature ponies in Cornwall’s biggest live

horse experience. New for 2011 is ‘Dizzy

Dina’, a dinosaur ride, ‘Pony Express’ a sit-on

ride for younger children, and ‘The Beast’, a

thrill ride that takes you up and then plunges

you back down to earth.

ST ISSEY

2 miles S of Padstow on the A389

On 1st February 1869, the medieval tower of

St Issey’s Parish Church collapsed and,

remarkably its destruction was captured by

an early photographer, the resulting

photograph of the tower’s demise also shows

a top-hatted policeman looking on

helplessly. The present St Issey

Parish Church dates from 1871,

though there are remnants of

some 14th and 15th century

work still to be seen. Not only

did the church have to be

rebuilt, the Catacleuse stone

altar piece by the Master of St

Endellion had to be

meticulously rebuilt piece by

piece. There are references to

a church at this spot going back

to 1190, when the bishop of

Exeter gave its patronage to

the dean and chapter of Exeter

Cathedral.

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Bedruthan Steps Beach

While visiting Padstow in October 1842,

the novelist Charles Dickens, inspired by his

time in the ancient port, wrote his much-

loved story, A Christmas Carol, in which he

mentions both Tinnens Cottages and a

lighthouse - the one at Trevose Head. He

based the character Jacob Marley on his good

friend Dr. Miles Marley. His son Dr. Henry

Frederick Marley practised in Padstow for 51

years and died at his home in St. Issey on

27th January 1908. In this heartwarming

seasonal story, Dickens actually reworks an

idea that first began as an interlude in

Pickwick Papers and it is plain that the

Gabriel Grub character was a prototype for

the grasping and miserly Ebenezer Scrooge.

LITTLE PETHERICK

2 miles S of Padstow on the A389

This village sits close to St Issey, on the

opposite bank of a little creek. The footpath

that follows Little Petherick Creek to its

confluence with the River Camel also leads to

a splendid viewpoint at which there can be

seen an Obelisk, built in 1887 to celebrate

Queen Victoria’s Golden Jubilee.

BEDRUTHAN STEPS

5½ miles SW of Padstow off the B3276

One of Cornwall’s most dramatic beaches,

Bedruthan Steps, whose jagged slate outcrops

were traditionally held to be the stepping-

stones of a giant called Bedruthan, a

legendary figure conjured into existence in

the 19th century. Some of the larger of these

massive flat-topped slabs have been given

names of their own. Samaritan Island is

named after a ship wrecked on the beach in

1846 - with the locals ‘rescuing’ the cargo of

luxurious silks and satins for themselves.

Another rock, whose curious formation has

been likened to the profile of Queen Elizabeth

I, is referred to as Queen Bess Rock.

However, any resemblance there ever was to

the Virgin Queen has long since been wiped

away by the wind and the waves. By far the

best view of the beach can be found from the

grassy clifftops 300 feet above. The beach

makes a great place to ramble about, but

swimming at Bedruthan Steps is not advised

owing to the rocks and often violent waves.

The area around Bedruthan is also rich in

prehistoric sites; within two miles there are

no less than six Bronze Age barrows and two

cliff castles dating from the Iron Age.

PORTHCOTHAN

4½ miles SW of Padstow on the B3276

Porthcothan is a lovely sandy bay with a small

stream running across a fine golden sandy

beach, which is sheltered by sand dunes and

craggy headlands. At low tide the beach opens

out, connecting up with small coves, and at

high tide the beach becomes very sheltered

from swell and winds due to the cliffs. Today,

the National Trust owns much of the land

around the cove, and there is a car park and

toilets operated by the

local council. A popular

beach with families, the

lifeguard season dates

from May - September. In

days gone by, this cove

was the haunt of

smugglers, who were able

to land their contraband

safely and in secret. The

footpath over the

southern headland leads

to Porth Mear, another

secluded cove beyond

which, on a low plateau,

is a prehistoric earthwork

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THE OLIVE TREE

St Merryn, nr Padstow

A fantastic restaurantserving simple food ina relaxed atmosphere,with many dishesbeing influenced byItaly.


31

of banks and ditches.

Porthcothan is part of the ‘seven bays for

seven days’ grouping of beaches. These

include Constantine, Trevone, Harlyn and

Treyarnon, which are all very close by.

TREYARNON

3½ miles W of Padstow off the B3276

This small hamlet lies at the southern end of

Constantine Bay and has one of a succession

of fine sandy beaches that can be found on

either side of Trevose Head. Though

conditions here are ideal for surfing, the

strong currents around the beach make

swimming hazardous. The sand dunes backing

the beaches along Constantine Bay are

covered with marram grass and tamarisk

shrubs and through here the South West

Coast Path passes on its way northwards to

Trevose Head.

TREVOSE HEAD

4 miles NW of Padstow off the B3276

The stormy headland at Trevose is one of the

shorter Heritage Coasts at only two and a

half miles (Ed: for consistency this should

really be 2½ but I can’t do half in correct

size and font) in length. Fine sandy beaches

adjoin the headland like bookends, but

Trevose Head itself is rugged and severe,

carved out of hard volcanic rock. This remote

area is reached via a toll road, but it is a trip

well worth making as, from the headland,

there are wonderful views down the coast

that take in bay after bay. The area is

popular with surfers, who delight in the

strong winds and waves along the whole

Atlantic coast of Cornwall. For drier pursuits,

there is excellent walking along the cliffs,

with wildflowers and buterflies abundant in

spring. The South West Coast Path rambles

through Trevose Head on its 630-mile journey

from south Dorset to north Somerset.

At the tip of the headland stands the

Victorian Trevose Lighthouse, built by

Thomas and Jacob Olver of Falmouth in 1847.

The light stands some 204 feet above sea

level and from here, at night, lights from

four other lighthouses can be seen.

ST MERRYN

2 miles W of Padstow on the B3276

St Merryn was a Welsh saint born around AD

496 who went to live in Brittany. On his way,

he founded a small church, where the

present St Merryn’s Parish Church now

stands. Dating originally from the 13th and

14th centuries, it was partially restored in

the 20th century, when the windows, floor,

pews and roof were replaced, but there is

still much of the earlier church to be

admired. The font came from the ruins of the

nearby St Constantine’s Church.

In the garden of a private house in this

small village is a modern day Celtic

monument that is as impressive as any of the

many prehistoric sites found in Cornwall. The

Angel’s Runway, three large, granite standing

stones with a huge, flat capstone, was built

in 1987, and is a direct copy of a Neolithic

chamber tomb. There are other copies of

famous Cornish stone circles and rocking

stones to be seen here. The parish of St

Merryn has no fewer than seven unspoilt

beaches on its seaward boundary.

TREVONE

1½ miles NW of Padstow off the B3276

Sheltered by Trevose Head and Rumps Point,

the seemingly gentle and peaceful sandy cove

at Trevone is guarded by vicious offshore

rocks. A quiet place that can be reached by

way of the coastal path from Padstow, the

rock pools that are formed on the beach at

low tide, particularly one that is around 6

feet deep, provide the safest bathing. An 80-

feet deep blowhole just above the beach is a

great attraction. In 2007, Trevone Bay was

used as the setting for a Renault Clio Ripcurl

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BLUE REEF AQUARIUM

Newquay

A magnificent range ofmarine life from aroundthe world. Thecentrepiece being astunning coral reefdisplay housed in a giant250,000 litre ocean tank.


32

Tolcarne Beach, Newquay

advert, featuring two surfers contemplating

going into the sea.

NEWQUAY

Newquay has a defiantly youthful air, making

it difficult to imagine the town enjoying any

history extending more than a few years

back. In fact Newquay has 1,600 years of

history and has seen a dramatic change of

identity from fortified cliff settlement,

through tiny port to premier resort. Iron Age

Man smelted ore here for weapons and tools,

Industrial Age Man made it his conduit for the

trade in tin and china clay, but Modern man

found its hidden gold; the chain of eleven

beaches have transformed Newquay in less

than a century into the most popular holiday

resort in Cornwall.

Sixteen hundred years ago all that existed

within the modern boundary was a

settlement on Porth Island. In 1439 Bishop

Lacey of Exeter allowed the burghers of what

was then called Towan Blystra to build a New

Quay. It was the beginning of the town’s

second life as a fishing port, culminating in

the arrival of the great pilchard shoals of the

18th century and the sgalvanisingtirring cry

of ‘Hheva!’ from the whitewashed Huer’s

Hut, still standing above the harbour. Here,

the Huer would scan the sea looking for

shoals of pilchards, which caused the water

to turn red, and, once spotted, he would

alert the fishing crews by calling ‘hevva,

hevva’, meaning ‘found, found’,

through a long loud-hailer. He

would then guide the boats

towards the shoal with

semaphore-style signals using a

pair of bats known as bushes.

The term ‘hue and cry’ comes

from the same source. In the

17th and 18th centuries, low

wages from fishing and

agriculture were supplemented

by smuggling and more sinisterly

the ‘wrecking’ made famous in

Daphne du Maurier’s Jamaica

Inn.

Celebrity entrepreneur and

TV Dragon, Duncan Bannatyne, masterminded

Newquay’s latest innovative swashbuckling

adventure, Buccaneer Bay (a redevelopment

of a long-established attraction, Tunnels

Through Time). Stunning visual affects,

atmospheric lighting and an amazing sound

system provide an exciting backdrop for 21st

century attractions such as ‘Scare’ and the

‘The Sunken Village of the Damned’. Take a

journey through the coves and lanes of old

Cornwall where sight, sound and smell fire

the imagination – sort of Madame Tussauds

does pirates.

These days Newquay is the resort with all

the nightlife, but not so much of the culture.

However, there is the Lane Theatre, the only

theatre in Newquay, it. The theatre seats

136138, has a licensed ‘Cosy Nook’ bar,

facilities for the disabled and a free car park.

Comedy plays are presented throughout the

summer season. The theatre is owned and

operated by Newquay Dramatic Society.

The stunning beaches in Newquay alone

combine the roles of playground, stadium and

theatre, providing an unrivalled source for

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Surfing at Fistral Beach, Newquay

traditional English seaside pursuits as well as

a launch pad for a full range of watersports

such as surfing, kitesurfing, waveski,

mountain boarding and extreme activities for

beginner and champion alike. Towan Beach is

one of those fine beaches overlooked by the

town, and is the closest to the town centre.

Situated on the Towan Promenade, the Blue

Reef Aquarium brings the Atlantic on-shore

with a fascinating slice of life beneath the

waves. Walk a tunnel through a giant tropical

ocean display and enjoy over 30 living

displays featuring amazing sea life. There’s a

daily programme of talks and activities at

this fascinating place. Great Western and

Tolcarne are also popular with families, and

usually less crowded.

The biggest of Newquay’s beaches is

Watergate Bay, a glorious expanse of fine

sand 3 miles out of town on the Padstow

road. Here and at Crantock, Fistral, Towan,

Great Western, Porth and Tolcarne and

Mawgan Porth beaches a lifeguard service

operates in the summerMay to September.

Newquay Town Council hired the first full-

time lifeguards in 1959, and during the 1960’s

lifeguards were recruited from as far afield

as Australia, South Africa and Hawaii. Warren

Mitchell, a lifeguard from Australia, worked

in Newquay and he saw an a RNLI inshore

lifeboat on ain service. He was inspired and

he took the idea back to Australia and

developed the modern lifeguard inshore

rescue boat.

All of the above beaches are popular with

surfers, but the jewel in

Cornwall’s crown and the most

challenging is Fistral Beach,

fully exposed to the Atlantic,

the fierce breakers make it an

ideal venue for national and

international competitions. The

standard of surfing in the water

is high, especially at North and

Little Fistral. Experts and

intermediates paddle out by the

rocks using the rip while

beginners stay to the middle of

the bay. The National Surfing

Centre Surf School on Fistral

beach has been established

since 1988 and is one of Britain’s longest

running and most highly reputable surf

schools.

Run to the Sun Festival was created from

a natural affinity between the car and beach

culture, the surfer’s love of the VW Beetle,

and has grown into one of the largest Custom

Car, VW and dance festivals in Europe since

its conception in 1987. Now thousands of car

enthusiasts from across the UK and beyond

travel to Newquay to indulge in this annual

festival, which attracts somewhere in the

region of 80,000 visitors each year.

If you feel like escaping the seaside

crowds, you’ll appreciate the tranquility of

Trenance Gardens, formal gardens with

streams and a boating lake next to the

Gannel estuary, a haven for wildlife. Here the

mild climate caused by the Gulf Stream

ensures that palm trees flourish. Within

Trenance Leisure Park, Waterworld offers

two indoor swimming pools, a 60-metre flume

and other entertainment; there’s also crazy

golf and a mini train ride.

The park is also home to Newquay Zoo,

more than 250,000 people visit this zoo each

year. The zoo is set in over ten 10 acres of

sub-tropical lakeside gardens. Here

conservation, education and entertainment

go hand in hand. With Red Pandas, zebra,

antelope and lions from the African plains to

the nocturnal world of the Rodrigues bats,

zoo trails and talks by the keepers, there is

always plenty here to see and do for visitors

of all ages. If you like animals then you and

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the family will love enjoy

DairyLand Farm World, near

Newquay, a fabulous all-weather

family day out with attractions

suitable for all age groups.

DairyLand Farm World is a real

working farm and children of all

ages will love the endless list of

attractions on offer to them.

From pony rides to tractor

rides, bottle-feeding to

milking, there is certainly

something for everyone.

Every season a free

newspaper is published,

containing features of local

interest and a ‘What’s On’ guide. The

summer months feature such events as a

balloon festival, gig-racing for both men and

women’s teams, surfing and surf life-saving

events and championships and the RNLI

Lifeboat Day. For a full list of events contact

the Newquay Tourist Information Centre.

Because of its position at the heart of

Cornwall, Newquay makes the perfect

touring base to explore its history and

legend and with its nearby Newquay Airport

it’s easily reached too. To the northeast is

Tintagel where Merlin wove his spells and

King Arthur held court. To the east is Roche

Rock, spiritual home of the Cornish Gorsedd

and the wildly beautiful moorland of

Bodmin. And south is the 11th century

Restormel Castle, one-time home of the

Black Prince, the beautiful valley of the

Fowey and the lushly different riviera of

sleepy estuaries, secluded coves and

picturesque fishing villages like Mevagissey.

AROUND NEWQUAY

PORTH

1 mile E of Newquay on the A3059

Originally a separate village, with its own

shipbuilding yards and pilchard cellars, Porth

has now been engulfed by its larger

neighbour Newquay. However, the beach at

Porth still brings visitors and is ideal for

families - very wide with lots of room to

build the biggest and best sandcastles and

then to explore the many rock pools. Porth

beach is regarded as one of the safest

beaches for swimming in the Newquay area. A

spectacular feature of the beach is the blow

hole at the end of the island which can be

seen at mid tide - especially on windy days.

Trevelgue Head (Porth Island) becomes an

island at high tide. An Iron Age fort once

stood here, the ramparts are still impressive

and the site is most dramatic when a heavy

sea attacks the cliffs.

MAWGAN PORTH

4 miles NE of Newquay on the B3276

On the coast at Mawgan Porth the remains of

a Saxon settlement can be made out. Various

9th to 11th century dwellings that formed

part of this fishing and herding community

can be seen near the beach as well as the

foundations of a larger courtyard house and a

cemetery. You can learn about the ancient

artefacts that were unearthed during the last

century and about the people who roamed

these shores over a thousand 1,000 years

ago. Carbon dating has shown that some of

the items found in the unearthed settlement

were from the year’s AD850-1050. This is a

great place to bring children to see objects

from the past and help them understand what

life was like for their ancestors many years

ago. The ancient tower of St Mawgan Parish

Church dates back to the 14th century and

has a peal of eight bells.

Bridge at Porth Beach

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THE FALCON INN

St Mawgan

With award winninggardens, its own a lacarte restaurant and thetranquillity of ruralvillage life, this B&B hasmuch to offer.


33

The coastline between here and Padstow,

to the north, is rugged and among the most

impressive to be found in Cornwall. If you

walk inland through the Vale of Lanherne,

you will come to St Mawgan village and the

historic town of St Columb where you can

still explore its medieval buildings.

ST MAWGAN

4½ miles NE of Newquay off the B3276

St Mawgan village is two 2 miles up the vale

from the beaches of Mawgan Porth. It is a

particularly attractive village and provides a

real oasis of calm. There is a granite and

slate manor house, once the home of Richard

of Arundell, Marshall of England some 700

years ago. The restored 13th century St

Mawgan and St Nicholas Parish Church has

one of the finest collections of monumental

brasses in the country and most are of the

Arundell family, whose 13th century former

manor house, Lanherne, was taken over by a

closed Carmelite order of nuns in 1794 who

had fled the French Revolution. There is also

a fine pulpit dating from 1553 and a 15th

century rood screen. Outside, in the

churchyard, stands a beautifully carved

lantern cross dating to around 1420, w. While

here too can be seen an extraordinary timber

memorial in the shape of the stern of a boat

that is dedicated to ten unfortunate souls

who froze to death in their lifeboat after

being shipwrecked off the coast in 1846.

East meets west at the authentic

Japanese Garden and Bonsai Nursery, in the

centre of the village. Diminutive it may be in

size, but its paths lead through a myriad of

Japanese maples, azaleas and rhododendrons,

and other features include a koi pond,

bamboo grove and a teahouse from where

you can recline on the balcony and take in

the stunning overview.

The village inn, The Falcon, is reputed to

have been named during the Reformation

when it was the practice to release a bird

into the air to signal that a secret Catholic

mass was about to take place.

ST COLUMB MAJOR

6 miles E of Newquay on the A39

In 1860 William Butterfield, drew up plans in

hope of St Columba’s Parish Church

becoming the cathedral of the future diocese

of Cornwall, but the town lost out to Truro.

However, the town’s claims for this

prestigious prize were not unfounded as the

St Columba’s Parish Church is unusually large

and cathedral-like in appearance. The tower

is a fine example of a 15th century building,

consisting of four stages with battlements

and pinnacles. It is 80 feet high and contains

eight bells re-hung in 1950. In 1920 the

chiming clock was added as a memorial to

the men of St. Columb who died in the Great

War. It is also home to some of the finest

16th and 17th century monumental brasses in

the county - those dedicated to the

influential Arundell family. Sir John Arundell,

who died in 1379, lies buried in the church. It

was several centuries earlier that Sir John

Arundell, having supported Edward III in his

wars against the Scots, was rewarded by the

granting of a Royal Charter, in 1333, which

gave St Columb Major market town status.

There has been much conjecture about

who St Columba was. Some say he is the

same Irish saint who crossed to Iona in

Scotland, though why his influence should

have stretched so far south is unclear. Others

say that the St Columba commemorated here

was in fact St Columba the Virgin, who was

either French or Irish. According to legend,

she scorned the advances of an unbeliever

who wanted her to marry his son. When she

resisted, he killed her at Ruthvoes, a couple

of miles to the south of the town.

So sure were the town’s officials of having

Cornwall’s cathedral sited here, that in the

1850s a moated, medieval tower house was

rebuilt as a possible bishop’s palace. Now

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called the Old Rectory, it retains much of its

grandeur. Another interesting building here is

the Red Lion Inn, which is renowned for its

former landlord, James Polkingborne, a

famous Cornish wrestler who is depicted in

action on a plaque on one of the inn’s

external walls.

‘Hurling the Silver ball’, is a rowdy

medieval game still played today, a cross

between hurling and football, it is played

twice a year, on Shrove Tuesday then on the

Saturday eleven days later. It involves two

teams of several hundred people - the

‘townsmen’ and the ‘countrymen’ - who

endeavour to carry a ball made of apple

wood and encased in sterling silver through

goals set two 2 miles apart. Once a common

pastime throughout the county, this ancient

game is now only played here and in St Ives.

Such is the passion for the St Columb Major

event that windows of houses and shops in

the locality are boarded up for the occasion.

A couple of miles southeast of the town,

on Castle Downs, lie the remains of a massive

Iron Age hill fort. Called Castle-an-Dinas, this

was the major fort of the Dumnonia tribe who

were in the area in around the 2nd century BC

and, from here, they ruled the whole of Devon

and Cornwall. The earthwork is generally

thought to be one of the most significant

hillforts in the British Isles. The three

earthwork ramparts enclose an area of over

six 6 acres and those climbing to the gorse-

covered remains, some 700 feet above sea

level, will be rewarded with panoramic views

over the leafy Vale of Lanherne, and over Goss

Moor to the clay deposits to the south.

At Winnards Perch, on the A39 between St

Columb Major and Wadebridge, the Cornish

Birds of Prey Centre is situated in 15 acres

of beautiful countryside with glorious views.

Visitors can watch the swooping falcons, the

soaring buzzards, the comical vulture, the

owls, the hawks and the redtails; and as well

as the birds the site is home to ponies, deer,

zebu, emus, waterfowl and pheasants. Within

the centre, Meadowside Fisheries offers

prime coarse fishing for carp, roach, tench,

bream, perch and rudd. For those looking for

a more active family day out, at the St

Columb Major roundabout follow the brown

tourist signs for Springfields Fun Park and

Pony Centre, home to different breeds of

pony, including Dartmoor, Shetland and

DalesWelsh. Children can pet, feed and ride

the ponies as well as mmeetingeet various

other animals such as lambs, calves, goats,

chickens and rabbits. Other attractions in the

fun park include a large boating lake, go-

karts, trampolines, aerial gliders and an

outdoor indoor activity play area.

INDIAN QUEENS

6 miles E of Newquay off the A30

Close to an area dominated by china clay

quarries, this chiefly Victorian village is home

to Screech Owl Sanctuary, which lies just to

the northeast. Visitors can see and touch the

owls under staff supervision, and there is a

guided tour of the centre. The sanctuary

began as a captive collection of owls and

expanded when an elderly breeder passed on

his collection of birds prior to retirement.

Part of this menagerie consisted of a disabled

buzzard, and a barn owl, which that had lost

half a wing in a road accident. Before long

the Screech Owl Sanctuary began providing

care and rehabilitation for wild sick and

Castle-an-Dinas

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injured owls. Ensuring their safe release back

to the wild, when fully recovered, is the

main function of the sanctuary. The sanctuary

has now diversified somewhat, with the

introduction of emus, Shetland ponies and

meerkats, and new for 2011, Alpacas.

ROCHE

10½ miles E of Newquay on the B3274

What chiefly brings people to this unassuming

place lies not in Roche but to the southwest

on the granite outcrop of Roche Rock. Unlike

Cornwall’s many megaliths, this blob-like

structure is an entirely natural phenomenon.

The ruined chapel on the summit of the

Rock’s centre crag was dedicated to St

Michael in 1409, ; a feat of medieval

engineering, the two-storey Hermitage has,

remarkably, stood the test of time.

The rock is connected to the Arthurian

legend of Tristan and Iseult (Isolde). Tristan

was King Mark’s nephew who accidentally

shared a love potion with King Mark’s

intended queen Iseult, resulting in Tristan

and Iseult falling hopelessly in love. It was

here, in Ogrin’s Chapel, that the lovers found

refuge from King Mark of Cornwall. Roche

Rock is also associated with the legendary

Cornish scoundrel, Jan Tregeagle (see also

Bolventor), who attempted to seek sanctuary

in the chapel while being pursued across the

moors by a pack of headless hounds.

The visual peculiarities of Roche Rock

have continued to exert a hellish fascination,

even in recent years: some of The Omen –

The Final Conflict was filmed here.

Specifically, the scene in which a group of

priests ambush someone whom they believe

to be Antichrist Damien Thorne.

KESTLE MILL

2½ miles SE of Newquay on the A3058

Found hidden in the lanes two 2 miles west

of Kestle Mill, is the exceptionally attractive

small Elizabethan manor house, Trerice. Built

by Sir John Arundell in 1571, and now in the

care of the National Trust, this charming

house with a Dutch-style gabled fa•ade

retains many of its fine original features, and

highlights include fine oak and walnut

furniture, collections of clocks and drinking

glasses, English and Oriental porcelain,

portraits by the celebrated Cornish painter

John Opie and a magnificent window in the

great hall, made up of 576 small panes of

16th century glass. The grounds in which the

house stands are equally charming and, as

well as the unusual summer flowering

garden, there is an orchard planted with old

and, in many cases, forgotten fruit trees. The

Parade Ground was used as a training ground

by the Home Guard in the 1940s, and here you

can play the Cornish game of ‘kayles’, an

early form of skittles. All parts of the garden

may be used for picnicking. The hayloft is also

worth a once-over for its engagingly eccentric

Lawnmower Museum, which traces the

history of the lawnmower and contains more

than 100 machines, the earliest

dating from 1873. Tearooms, a

gift shop and plant sales can also

be found in the house’s various

outbuildings. Trerice was the

‘Trenwith’ of Winston Graham’s

Poldark novels.

To the southeast of Kestle

Mill is another place well worth

visiting that is rather different

from Trerice – Dairyland Farm

World. This is a real working

dairy farm and, amongst the

other attractions here, visitors

can see the cows being milked

to musicRoche Rock and Chapel

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ST NEWLYN EAST

3 miles S of Newquay off the A3075

St Newlyn East parish was named after St

Newlina and the word ‘East’ added to

distinguish the village from Newlyn near

Penzance. The village was a flourishing

mining area in the 19th century, – the

imposing old engine house and chimney stack

of East Wheal Rose mine can still be seen to

the east and can be reached by taking a short

journey on the Lappa Valley Steam Railway,

one of the most popular attractions in the

whole county. Lappa Valley Steam Railway is

a narrow gauge railway that originally opened

in 1849 as a mineral line from Newquay to

East Wheal Rose and later became part of the

Great Western Railway’s Newquay to

Chacewater branch line, which was

eventually closed in 1963. Eric Booth, the

founder of Lappa Valley, reopened part of the

line in 1974 and the centrepiece is a 15" inch

gauge steam railway that runs through

beautiful countryside from Benny Halt, but

there are also two even smaller railways.

Cornwall’s richest lead producing mine, East

Wheal Rose, was the scene, in July 1846, of

Cornwall’s worst mining disaster when 39

miners were drowned in a flash flood caused

by an unexpected thunderstorm. The village’s

cockpit (where cockfighting had been held for

centuries) was restored as a memorial to the

dead and, although the mine reopened a year

after the accident, it closed for good in 1885.

HOLYWELL

3½ miles SW of Newquay off the A3075

This pretty hamlet, with its attractive beach

and towering sand dunes, was obviously

named after a holy well but the exact

location of that well has never been

definitively agreed. Some say that the well is

sited near the 18th tee on Holywell Bay Golf

Club, others argue that the well nestles in a

cave at the right hand side of the beach,

where the rocks have been eroded to give

the appearance of a set of steps reaching up

to a font. The cave is only reachable at low

tide - take a torch if you plan a visit, and

watch out for the slippery rocks! Its waters

were supposed to cure skin diseases in

children. Holywell Bay is sheltered, at either

end, by two headlands, Kelsey Head and

Penhale Point and provides superb swimming

and surfing; RNLI lifeguards patrol the beach

from May to September, which have helped to

make this a popular summer seaside resort. A

popular, long but pretty walk is to the left of

the beach, past Penhale Army Camp to

Perranporth, five miles there and five 5 miles

back. An additional attraction here, apart

East Wheal Rose, St Newlyn East

LAPPA VALLEY STEAM RAILWAY

St Newlyn East

A great day out forall the familycentred around the13” guage railway.

See entry on page

143

34 THE SMUGGLERS DEN

Cubert, nr Newquay

This olde worldethatched pub offerscontemporaryBritish cuisine anduninterrupted ruralviews.


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from the dolphins that can sometimes be

seen out in the bay, is the Holywell Bay Fun

Park that offers a whole range of activities

for young and old. Ideal for families, among

the amusements there is pitch and putt golf,

various rides and a maze among the

amusements and, new in 2010, an indoor

arena for what can only be described as a

giant Scaletrix track.

CRANTOCK

2 miles SW of Newquay off the A392

To the south of Newquay lies the beautiful

estuary of the River Gannel. Although the river

is modest in stature, over the millennia it has

created a wonderful inland sandy haven for

countless seabirds and a place of tranquility in

which to escape the excitements of Newquay.

The river also acts as the natural boundary

between the parishes of Newquay and

Crantock - and herein lies one of the secret

gems of the North Cornwall coast.

In days gone by, hidden from the sea by

its sand dunes, the little community of

Crantock snuggled around its church and had,

from the 12th century until it closed in 1545,

a famous college which was a great seat of

learning. But the village’s history goes back

even further than that, and had its origins in

the arrival of one of the 6th century Celtic

saints, Carantoc. At one time it was known as

Langurroc – ‘The Dwelling of Monks’ for it

was a major centre of religious activity

before the Norman Conquest. After the

Conquest it was given to a Norman nobleman,

who in turn gave it to Montacute Priory in

Dorest. Not all signs of Crantock’s Celtic past

are lost, for in the centre of the village is the

Round Garden, now owned by the National

Trust, but which is almost certainly the site

of one of the seven Celtic chapels that would

have surrounded the original church. The

Round Garden is in fact an orchard and one

can sit there and enjoy the peace of this

ancient place. St Carantoc Parish Church,

which was once collegiate, contains a

particularly beautiful rood screen. In 1412

the tower of the Norman church collapsed,

destroying the nave. Not surprisingly, a few

centuries ago, Crantock attracted smugglers

and the village’s old thatched inn, The Old

Albion, was a well-known hideaway.

Crantock’s long history has made it a

place of visual delight and rural charm, but

and it has much to offer today’s visitor - n.

Not least the warm welcome you will receive

- but, there are also art and craft shops, a

tea garden, restaurants, pubs, one of the

most beautiful beaches on the north Cornish

coast (although swimming is not advised) and

miles and miles of wonderful paths along

which you may walk in almost any direction.

ST AGNES

St Agnes is both a mining village retaining

links with its industrial past and a popular

coastal resort. Immaculate flower-filled

gardens front the straggling streets of grey-

slate and granite cottages in Peterville, the

lower part of the village, and in Churchtown,

the upper, more central part. The two ends

are connected by the steep Town Hill, famous

for the picturesque terrace of cottages

known as ‘Stippy-Stappy’, a Cornish

colloquialism for going uphill.

Before heading for the beaches, there are

a couple of sights attractions in and around

town that are worth exploring, starting with

the unprepossessing St Agnes Parish Church in

THE BOWGIE INN

West Pentire, nr Crantock

In a lofty positionoverlooking the beachat West Pentire, thisbar and restaurantoffers delicioushomemade food andpanoramic sea views.


36 ST AGNES HOTEL

St Agnes

Friendly hotel situated in theheart of the village, offeringfine food, affordableaccommodation and warmwelcome.


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Churchtown, dedicated to a 13-year-old

Roman girl martyred in AD304. Though dating

from 1849 in its present carnation, it merits a

glance for its much older relics, including a

quirky Elizabethan alms box supported by the

figure of a hungry man, his hands pressed

against his empty stomach. Presingoll Barns, is

a great all-weather tourist attraction for the

whole family. It’s perfect for finding all your

Cornish gifts for family and friends, or great

for just browsing the individual barns for

pottery, Cornish fudge, Cornish crafts, produce

and much more. St Agnes is a centre for arts

and crafts, and has a wealth of galleries and

craft shops displaying work by local artists.

You can take the Arts and Craft Trail to

discover the variety of local products available.

On the outskirts of the village south of

Churchtown, St Agnes Museum, run by

volunteers, aims to promote the heritage of

the village and the series of displays here not

only cover the mining and seafaring history of

St Agnes but also the natural history of the

surrounding area. An interesting item is the

figurehead of the Lady Agnes, a two-masted

schooner of 91 tons that was launched at

Trevaunance Cove in 1877. Four schooners

were built on the beach between 1873 and

1877, all for harbour owner Martin Hitchins,

and it was John Hitchins, a descendant of

Martin, who unveiled the figurehead in March

2002. The figurehead had been bought by an

American at a Christie’s auction in 1989 and

taken across the Atlantic; it was tracked

down and after some serious

fundraising was returned,

restored and put on display next

to the Museum’s mining displays

- particularly apt, as the

schooner’s main job was

shipping copper ore to Wales for

smelting, returning with coal for

the mines. Among the many

other interesting items in the

Museum is a self-portrait of the

locally born Georgian society

painter, John Opie and an 80-

year-old leatherback turtle

washed up on Porthtowan beach

in 1988.

Once known as the source of

the finest tin in Cornwall, the community still

retains reminders of those days, including the

picturesque group of clifftop buildings that

were once part of one of the county’s best

known mines - Wheal Coates. The word

‘wheal’ (originally ‘whel’) is the Cornish for

‘work’, though it has gradually come to mean

a working mine working in particular. Now in

the hands of the National Trust, the mine was

in operation for 30 years between 1860 and

1890 and the derelict Engine House is an

exceptionally atmospheric local landmark. It

stands close to a high cliff edge, and the

workings used to go out under the sea. Many

other abandoned pump houses and mine shafts

still litter the area (walkers should always

keep to the footpaths) and from the remains

of Wheal Kitty there are views across the

landscape to other disused workings.

If you’re intrigued by Cornwall’s tin

industry, you can find out everything you

need to know at Blue Hills Tin Streams, at

Trevallas Valley, a mile or so northeast of St

Agnes. Visitors to Blue Hills can take a tour

around the tin streaming works and are

talked through the process of vanning,

panning and gigging – stages of the process of

tin extraction. Those skills have been revived

at Blue Hills, where the refined tin is cast

into ingots that are melted down to produce

a unique range of jewellery and gifts that can

be purchased in the workshop.

The real pull around St Agnes, however, is

the cliffy coast and the best place to take it

Wheal Coates Mine, St Agnes

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all in – and one of Cornwall’s most famous

vantage points – is from St Agnes Beacon,

630 feet high, where views extend inland to

Bodmin Moor and even across the peninsula

to St Michael’s Mount. It was from this

summit that, in the 16th century, a fire was

lit to warn of the coming of the Spanish

Armada though, more recently, in 1977,

another fire was lit as part of the Queen’s

Silver Jubilee celebrations. A mile or so

northwest of the beacon, the knuckle of land

that is St Agnes Head is edged by cliffs which

support the area’s largest colony of breeding

kittiwakes, fulmars and guillemots, while

grey seals are a common sight offshore.

There are good beaches on either side: a

couple of miles north, Trevaunance Cove, the

site of several failed attempts to create a

harbour for the town, has a fine sandy beach

much favoured by surfers and boasts

excellent water quality, while south of St

Agnes Head, Chapel Porth is a wide expanse

of white sand at low tide, rock and stony at

other times. Both swimmers and surfers

should be aware of the strong currents and

undertows here. A cave behind the beach is

linked with the legendary giant called

Bolster, who fell in love with Agnes, a local

young maiden. As proof of his devotion to

her, Agnes asked the giant to fill a hole above

the cliffs at Chapel Porth with his blood - a

task he willingly undertook as the hole

seemed tiny. However, unknown to Bolster,

the hole was bottomless and opened into a

cave which in turn opened into the sea; as

his blood drained away, he became so weak

that he eventually died. The story is enacted

at Chapel Porth in early May, using giant

puppets in a colourful pageant and

procession. Bolster also presides over the St

Agnes Carnival in August and the Christmas

Lights and Lantern Procession in December.

The local beaches are all patrolled

throughout the summerMay until September

by professional lifeguards. St Agnes and

Porthtowan (see below) also have popular

Surf Life Saving Clubs, with courses run

throughout the year by qualified instructors.

AROUND ST AGNES

PORTHTOWAN

4 miles S of St Agnes off the B3300

Evidence of copper mining is never far away

in this part of Cornwall and, in the village of

Porthtowan, a 19th century mining engine

house has been converted into a private

residence. Above the village are the remains

of Wheal Towan, once one of the most

prosperous copper mines in Cornwall. It is

said that its owner, Ralph Allen Daniell of

Trelissick, earned a ‘guinea an minute’ from

it in the 18th century.

These days Porthtowan is probably best

known as a popular holiday destination owing

largely to its extensive sand beach and this is

indeed where the name is derived, Porth -

beach and towan – dunes. As one of the more

exposed beaches, Porthtowan is a great

surfing beach producing powerful ‘hollow’

waves – probably not the best spot for

beginners when there is a swell running. At

the foot of the East Cliff is a natural rock

pool where swimming is allowed. Inland, at

Tywarnhale, more evidence can be seen in

the remains of various copper mine buildings.

PERRANPORTH

3 miles NE of St Agnes on the B3285

Made famous by the BBC’s exciting Seaside

Rescue series, Perranporth, isn’t just a place

for drama. It’s also a classic bucket and sand

beach, and rich with cultural value. The

Millennium Sundial, stands standing by the

beach, it tells Cornish time, which is twenty

minutes ahead of GMT. It’s no exaggeration

to say that the history and development of

Perranporth have been quite unusually

LITTLE TREVELLAS FARM

Trevellas

Idyllic three star bed andbreakfast nestled withina working farm, withhomemade breakfastsand opportunities tomeet some of the animals.


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dominated by sand. Buried beneath the

extensive sand dunes here is The Oratory of

St Piran, the patron saint of tin mining, and,

arguably, of Cornwall as a whole. The oratory

became overwhelmed by sand sometime

before 1500, f. Following its excavation in

the last century, it had to be reburied in 1981

in order to better preserve it for posterity.

Legend has it that when the remains were

uncovered, three headless skeletons were

also discovered. Reburied today, a simple

plaque marks the site of the burial place of

the saint who is said to have travelled from

Ireland to Cornwall on a millstone. The

saint’s landing place is marked by a tall

granite cross, St Piran’s Cross, which is one

of only a very few three-holed Celtic crosses

in the county.

The name of the parish in which

Perranporth is located is called

Perranzabuloe, which translates into English

as ‘Perran-in-the-sands’, and gives its name

to the local museum, the Perranzabuloe Folk

Museum, located in the town’s Ponsmere

Road. It has local collections on archaeology,

science and social history. For most people,

however, Perranporth will forever be linked

with Winston Graham, the author of the

Poldark novels. Born in Manchester, Graham

settled in Perranporth in the 1930s and, while

staying here, wrote the first volumes in the

series, which were published between 1945

and 1953. Local beauty spots, towns, villages

and various old mine workings all appear

either as themselves or in disguise in the

books and, in some cases, his

characters take their names

from local villages.

In mid-October Perranporth

hosts the Lowender Peran Celtic

Festival, which takes place in

the Ponsmere Hotel. The

festival celebrates traditional

and contemporary music, stories

and songs in the Cornish

language, and Cornwall’s links

with other Celtic cultures in

Ireland, Scotland, Wales, the

Isle of Man and Brittany are

emphasized with groups and

performers arriving from all of

those regions.

PENHALE CAMP

6 miles NE of St Agnes off the A3075

Penhale Camp is the site of a 940-acre

military training base, so great care should

be taken when visiting the area, and

restriction notices should be observed.

According to local legend, the old town of

Langarroc, a supposedly beautiful place with

seven fine churches, lies buried beneath the

dunes of Penhale Sands. The town gained its

wealth from mining and it also proved to be

the cause of the town’s undoing, as, during a

great storm that lasted three days, Langarroc

and its inhabitants were engulfed - some said

as retribution for their ungodly ways. On

stormy nights it is said that ghostly cries for

help can still be heard above the sound of

the wind and the waves. Before the planting

of marram grass, sandstorms did much

damage in this part of Cornwall, so the

legend may be based on a real sandstorm

which obliterated a late Iron Age settlement.

Ancient human skeletons have been found in

the area, adding substance that there was a

settlement here in the distant past.

ROSE

4½ miles NE of St Agnes off the B3285

Close to this tiny village lies St Piran’s

Round, an impressive Iron Age enclosure that

was used for miracle plays performed in the

St Piran’s Cross, Perranporth

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Cornish language in the Middle Ages, and

later for Cornish games such as wrestling.

Possibly the oldest theatre site in Europe, it

is still used from time to time.

ST ALLEN

6½ miles E of St Agnes off the A30

There are a number of creatures particular to

Cornish folklore, although their cousins can

be found elsewhere in Britain under a

different name and guise. One of these

strains is the ‘Piskie’ also known as a Pixie in

other West Country counties. One legend

surrounding these mischievous creatures tells

of a boy, living in St Allen, who was out

picking wild woodland flowers near his home.

When he failed to return home for supper, his

mother and other villagers began a frantic

search. After three days, the boy was found,

sleeping peacefully in exactly the same spot

where he was last seen; he had no idea what

had happened to him in the intervening days.

However, what he could remember was that

while picking the flowers he had heard a bird

singing so beautifully that he had followed

the sound of the bird deep into the woods. As

day turned into night and the stars came out,

the boy had realised that the stars were, in

fact, piskies and they had led him to a

fantastic cave with crystal pillars studded

with jewels where he had been fed on the

purest honey. When he awoke from this

incredible adventure he found himself back in

the woodland close to his home.

The town of St Allen derives

its name from this Celtic saint

who is possibly the same who

became bishop of Quimper in

Brittany. A little way north of St

Allen, a mile west of the village

of Zelah, lies Chyverton

Garden, in the grounds of a

grand Georgian house built for a

wealthy mine owner. The

landscaping was added by John

Thomas over a 55 year period.

He created a small lake by

damming a stream, built a

bridge and planted 94 acres of

woodland. The place is

renowned for its rhododendrons and

magnolias. Chyverton is open all year by

appointment only.

PENHALLOW

3 miles E of St Agnes on the A3075

Cornwall may not immediately be recognised

as a cider-making area but it has long

practiced the art. Just south of Penhallow lies

the Cornish Cyder Farm, which produces

strong traditional scrumpys, sparkling ciders,

country wines, jams, preserves and brandy.

There are gGuided tours taking take visitors

through the press house, bottling house, jam

kitchen, brandy distillery and the cellars, and

after the tour there is an opportunity to

sample the product. It is also possible to take

a tractor ride through acres of beautiful fruit

and apple orchards. Here, too, is the Cider

Museum where the fascinating history of cider

making is charted, through displays of old

equipment and artefacts that, which include a

horse-drawn mill and a cooper’s workshop.

Unfortunately, the museum is only accessible

to those people enjoying a guided tour due to

its closeness to the distillery which is a

Customs & Excise bonded warehouse.

TOWAN CROSS

2 miles S of St Agnes off the B3277

The countryside around this village was one

of the richest tin and copper mining areas in

the country and the minerals were extracted

St Piran‘s Round, nr Rose

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here until the 1920s. To satisfy the thirst of

the miners, there were once many inns here

and in the surrounding area, andthe village’s

name comes from the horizontal stone cross

that lies outside Towan Cross’s 16th century

inn, on which coffins were rested while the

bearers called in for refreshment in the days

of walking.

FOWEY

Far more than a town or even a resort,

Fowey (pronounced ‘Foy’) is a river and

estuary whose creeks, in Carew’s phrase,

‘fold about the land with many embracing

arms’ and provide astonishing variety to

yachtsmen, fishermen and walkers. An

attractive place, with steep, narrow streets

and alleyways that lead down to one of the

best natural harbours along the south coast,

Fowey exhibits a pleasant mixture of

architectural styles that range from

Elizabethan to Edwardian. Seen rising above

trees is the tower of St Fimbarrus Parish

Church. St Finbarrus, or Finbar, was an Irish

monk who passed through the town on his

way to Rome. The church was built on the

site of a 7th century chapel to St Goran. A

Norman church took its place in about 1150,

which was rebuilt in the early 14th century

after a raid by pirates. In reprisal for the

many raids made by the sailors known as the

Fowey Gallants, the French, during their

devastating raid on Fowey in 1456, partially

destroyed this church once more, with

restoration work starting soon after 1460 by

the Earl of Warwick. The church’s font is a

legacy of the deeds of the Gallants as it was

made from panelling seized by them from a

Spanish galleon in 1601. The church also

marks the traditional end of the ancient

Saints’ Way from Padstow, linking the north

and south Cornish coasts.

Behind St Fimbarrus stands Place House,

an extravagance belonging to the local

Treffry family. Built in 1260, the fortified

manor house was the focus of a French attack

in the mid 15th century. Although the attack

was repelled, a large portion of the house

had to be rebuilt due to fire damage. Today

it remains a private residence and is best

viewed from the sea. Below the church, the

Ship Inn, sporting some fine Elizabethan

panelling and plaster ceilings, was originally

a town house, built by the influential

Rashleigh family in the 15th century, and the

local Roundhead HQ during the Civil War. The

Town Hall, which is home to a small

aquarium (summer only, times vary) and

museum (open Easter–mid-Oct Mon–Fri), dates

back to 1793 and replaced the 14th century

Guild Chapel. Some of the chapel’s features

remain intact such as the barred windows of

the medieval jail. An old water tap can be

found to the rear of the building - its

installation in 1787 was met with much

enthusiasm by locals. The museum is an

excellent place to discover Fowey’s colourful

history, from the days of piracy and

smuggling to the rise of the town’s harbour

and the china clay industry.

Fowey and the area around the town have

many literary connections, and, next to St

Fimbarrus is the Literary Centre, where the

rich literary heritage includes features on

Daphne du Maurier (1907-1989), who lived at

Bodinnick; Kenneth Grahame (1855-1932, and

who was married in the parish church in

1899); Leo Walmsley (1892-1966); and Sir

Arthur Quiller Couch (1863-1944), who lived

for over 50 years at The Haven, on the

Esplanade just above the Polruan ferry. Sir

Arthur, who wrote as ‘Q’, was a Cambridge

professor, editor of the Oxford Book of

English Verse and author of several books,

which help popularize the place he called

‘Troy Town’. He died after being hit by a car,

leaving his last novel Castle Dor incomplete -

in 1962 this was finished by Daphne du

Maurier who was a close friend of his

daughter Foy. He is buried in St Fimbarrus

FOWEY HARBOUR COTTAGES

Fowey

Fowey sees a variety of self-catering properties suitablefor families, with lovelysurroundings. Email for awritten guide on each of thebeautiful properties available.


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churchyard. The Daphne du

Maurier Festival has been a

highlight of the cultural year in

Cornwall since 1997. Every year,

Fowey celebrates close to Du

Maurier’s birthday (May 13) with

a festival of music, dance,

drama, comedy, exhibitions and

fairs, films, garden visits,

poetry readings, storytelling,

walks and talks.

The Town Quay is the

departure point for river and

coastal cruises, which between

May and September provide a

great way to explore the water

systems hereabouts. The Fowey to Mevagissey

Ferry starts running from late April and is

possibly the best way to get to the Lost

Gardens of Heligan (see also Pentewan).

Another pleasant way to view the river is by

canoe or kayak. Experienced kayakers should

get in touch with Fowey Kayak Hire

(www.foweykyakhire.co.uk). For

inexperienced canoeists and beginners it is

possible to join escorted canoe trips with

Fowey River Expeditions

(www.foweyriverexpeditions.co.uk). Fowey

Royal Regatta is held every August and is one

of Britain’s premier sailing events, with

events occurring daily on the Town Quay. Not

all the action takes place on the water;

there’s plenty to keep landlubbers

entertained, from children’s entertainment to

the Red Arrows. The Regatta has a long &

proud history, having attracted visitors

including Queen Victoria, Prince Albert &

Queen Elizabeth II.

There are also alluring hikes to be made

inland from Fowey. You don’t have to take on

the entire 28 miles of the Saints’ Way to get

the flavour of this trail, one of the most

interesting walks in this area is the Hall

Walk, a scenic 4-mile hike that starts east of

the town in Bodinnick and ends in Polruan, if

you are to enjoy it to the full, you should set

aside a day.

To the south of Fowey lies Readymoney

Cove, whose expanse of sand acts as the

town’s beach, and further along the coast

lies St Catherine’s Castle. Part of a chain of

fortifications along the south coast, this

small fort was built by Henry VIII to protect

the harbour and, now in the hands of English

Heritage, it enjoys fine views over the river

estuary and the surrounding coastline.

To the west of Fowey lies the 7-feet tall

Tristan Stone, which, although not thought

to be in its original location, is a 6th century

monument bearing a Latin inscription which

translates as: ‘Drustanus lies here, son of

Conomorus’. Drustanus is an alternative

version of Tristan and it is believed that this

is the same Tristan who was a knight of King

Arthur. The son of King Mark, Tristan fell in

love with Iseult (often referred to as Isolde),

his father’s young bride, after they had both

drunk the love potion prepared for Mark’s

wedding night.

AROUND FOWEY

BODINNICK

½ mile E of Fowey off the A3082

A unique and pleasant way to enter or leave

Fowey, is to take the Bodinnick Car Ferry

and cross the river. Bodinnick is on the east

side of the river, and, located near the ferry

slipway stands the house in which Daphne du

Maurier lived before her marriage. She

actually wrote her first novel here, The

Loving Spirit, which was based on the Slade

family of nearby Polruan. On the right side of

Fowey Town Quay

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the building, below du Maurier’s old room,

can be seen a rescued figurehead from a

schooner, Jane Slade. Further upstream is

Pont Pill, meaning ‘Bridge Creek’. It provided

du Maurier with inspiration for her first novel

and she travelled through the nearby waters

on her wedding day in 1932. Another writer,

Leo Walmsey, lived further along the river in

a hut and here he wrote his romantic story,

Love in the Sun. Sir Arthur Quiller Couch is

remembered at Bodinnick by a monolithic

memorial which stands at Penleath Point on

the coast facing Fowey. The 4-mile Hall Walk

takes you from Bodinnick, past Pont Creek

and on to Polruan. The original walk was

designed as the promenade for Hall Manor,

which was built just above Bodinnick for an

influential Cornish family in the 13th century.

LANTEGLOS-BY-FOWEY

2 miles NE of Fowey off the A3082

Here can be found a lonely church whose

isolated position can be attributed to it

being built to serve Polruan as well as

several other scattered hamlets in this area.

Though some remnants of the original

Norman building exist, the St Wyllow’s

Parish Church is chiefly 14th century and

was fortunate enough not to be over

zealously restored in the 19th century. Its

tower is over 70 feet high. St Wyllow was a

Christian hermit who lived in the area and

died a martyr well before St Augustine

landed in Kent in the 6th century.

POLPERRO

5½ miles E of Fowey off the A387

This old fishing community is

many people’s ideal of the

typical Cornish fishing village.

Packed tightly into a steep

valley on either side of the

River Pol, the quaint

colourwashed fishermen’s

cottages and twisting streets

offer surprises at every turn:

the Saxon and Roman bridges,

the famous House on the Props

(a 16th century inn supported by

wooden props, now a bed-and-

breakfast, tearoom and restaurant), the fish

quay, and Couch’s House, the 16th century

house where Dr Jonathan Couch, the

naturalist and grandfather of author Sir

Arthur Quiller Couch, lived.

All routes in Polperro seem to lead down

to its beautiful Harbour, make no mistake,

this peaceful fishing cove, was once a

thriving centre for the area’s smuggling.

Generations of Polperro seafarers have

brought contraband goods ashore, largely due

to the presence of Zephaniah Job who acted

as the smugglers’ banker for many years.

Wagonloads of contraband left here, some

heading across Bodmin Moor en route to

London. To combat what was such a

widespread problem, HM Customs and Excise

established the first ‘preventive station’ in

Cornwall at Polperro in the 1800s.

If you prefer a focused tour to a mere

ramble through the village’s tidy lanes, join

one of the guided walks that start from the

Village Hall. Otherwise, you can get some

good background on the village at the

Polperro Heritage Museum of Smuggling

and Fishing. A whole range of artefacts and

memorabilia from around the 18th century

are used to illustrate the myths, legends and

larger-than-life characters that dodged the

government taxes on luxury goods. Also on

display is a model of HMS Recruit, onto

which local lad Robert Jeffrey was press-

ganged in 1807. He was subsequently cast

ashore on a desert island in the West Indies

for drinking the captain’s beer. He was

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eventually rescued and brought back to

London in 1810 to a hero’s welcome.

Questions were asked in Parliament about

the incident, and the Recruit’s captain was

dismissed from the service.

Just west of Polperro harbour lies Chapel

Hill, from which there are superb panoramic

views both inland and out to sea. At the

bottom of the hill lies a cavern that is known

as Willy Willcock’s Hole. Willy was a

fisherman who, walking here one day,

decided to explore the cave. Unfortunately

he lost his way in the maze of underground

tunnels and was never seen again and, so the

story goes, his lost soul can still be heard

crying out for help. A 2-mile clifftop walk

eastwards from Polperro leads to Talland

Bay, a sheltered shingle cove that is

overlooked by the 13th century St Tallan

Parish Church.

The Polperro Festival takes place for one

week annually in June. Highlights include

street theatre, live music, parades, arts and

crafts, Morris Dancers and a treasure hunt.

LANSALLOS

3 miles E of Fowey off the A387

From the 14th century St Ildierna’s Parish

Church, in the centre of this small village,

there is a path which follows a tree-lined

stream down to the coast and sheltered

Lantivet Bay. Here also lies the small shingle

beach of Lansallos Cove.

The name Lansallos in

Cornish means the ‘church

of unknown name’, as no

one could originally agree

on who St Ildierna was.

Some records say he was a

bishop of the Celtic Church,

while others claim that he

was a she, and a virgin.

Inside the church there are

a great number of features

of historic and architectural

interest, not least the

magnificent carved oaken

pews which were made

between 1490 and 1520.

The parish produced a

guide, which is available in the church.

POLRUAN

1 mile S of Fowey off the A3082

Polruan is bounded by water on three sides -

Penpoll Creek to the north, the Fowey River

to the west and the sea to the south. This

remoteness gives the area its unspoilt charm

with its narrow streets and narrower

alleyways where flights of slate steps twist

between the houses. Polruan is imbued with a

lingering, romantic atmosphere, the whole

area around these waters is steeped in

history and ancient legend. On the top of

Polruan Hill are the ruins of St Saviour’s

Chapel, dating originally from the 8th

century, though it was considerably enlarged

in 1488. It was from hre that people kept a

look out for French vessels intent on

Plundering Fowey during the Hundred Years’

War. To the southwest of St Saviour’s Point is

Punche’s Cross, said to have association with

Pontius Pilate. It is also claimed Joseph of

Arimathaea passed by the spot with the

young Jesus when he brought him to Britain.

Beside the harbour, which is still busy

with pleasure craft and china clay vessels,

lies the late 15th century Polruan

Blockhouse. One of a pair of artillery

buildings that was constructed to control the

entrance to Fowey, it was from here that,

during the Hundred Years’ War, heavy linked

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chains were stretched between the

two to prevent a sea invasion by the

French. The grooves made by the

chains can still be seen carved into

the rock.

GRIBBIN HEAD

2 miles SW of Fowey off the A3082

The dramatic green headland of

Gribbin Head on the Polperro Heritage

Coast makes a rewarding walk from

Fowey, since it offers some superb sea

views. The beacon on Gribbin Head,

Daymark Tower, was built in 1832 to

help seafarers find the approaches to

Fowey harbour. This craggy headland is best

known for being close to the home of Daphne

du Maurier, who lived at Menabilly House,

for 24 years. A 17th century mansion

overlooking the sea, once belonging to the

Rashleigh family, du Maurier used the house

as a model for ‘Manderley’ in one of her most

popular novels Rebecca, ‘Last night I dreamt

I went to Manderley again’ is among the best

known opening lines in the language. The

house is not open to the public, but you can

see where Rebecca met her watery end at

Polridmouth Cove.

GOLANT

2 miles N of Fowey off the B3269

Golant is a delightful waterside village

devoted to boats, fishing and peace and

quiet. Some of the famous Troy boats are

built here. It has two historical connections

that make it unique, that of The Life of St

Sampson and the story of Tristan and Iseult.

St Sampson built his monastic cell in the 6th

century. On the site of the cell stands St

Sampson’s Parish Church, and, by the porch,

another of Cornwall’s many holy wells.

Of all the Cornish saints, St Sampson is

perhaps the one we know most about, thanks

to a biography written about him in the early

7th century. He was the son of a Welsh king

who eventually became abbot of Caldey

Island off the Pembokeshire coast. One day,

near Easter, he saw an angel who told him to

leave Wales and travel across the sea. He did

so, and reached Padstow, where he began a

walk across Cornwall on what is now the

Saints’ Way. He eventually reached Golant,

and converted the people there to

Christianity after seeing them worshipping an

idol. He set up a small monastery before

continuing on his way to Brittany, where he

founded the Bishopric of Dol. It is said that

he was particularly good at curing lepers.

Close to the village can also be found the

Castle Dore Earthworks, the remains of an

Iron Age fort. Castle Dore was the place

where 6,000 Roundheads surrendered to King

Charles (in 1644.

It is also where, it is said, King Mark of

Cornwall’s palace stood, and yet another of

the places where the story of Tristan and

Iseult was played out. It is recorded that

Iseult attended the church and gave her

wedding dress to be made into a priest’s

chasuble, a sleeveless cloak worn over the

alb by priests during the saying of Mass.

LOSTWITHIEL

The name Lostwithiel comes from two old

Cornish words meaning ‘the place at the tail

end of the woodland’, which perfectly

describes its location - nestling in the valley

of the River Fowey and surrounded by

wooded hills. The mediaeval church, bridge

and part of the Great Hall (now known as the

Duchy Palace) still stand as testimony to its

original splendour. The Normans, who named

Gribbin Head Daymark

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it ‘the Port of Fawi’, founded the town, and

for centuries it was the second busiest port

on the south coast of England. Tin and other

raw materials were brought here for assaying

and onward transportation until the upstream

mining activity caused the quay to silt up and

force the port further down river.

Lostwithiel was a major crossing place on

the River Fowey and the original medieval

timber bridge was replaced and then

gradually altered until Tudor times when the

bridge seen today was completed. Alongside

the banks of the River Fowey and

downstream from the bridge lies the tranquil

Coulson Park. Opened in 1907, the park was

named after the American millionaire

Nathaniel Coulson, who grew up in the town

and who put up the money for the park’s

construction.

Throughout Lostwithiel there are

reminders, in the buildings, of the former

importance of this pleasant and picturesque

place. The remains of the 13th century Great

Hall, which served as the treasury and

stannary offices, can still be seen, and in

Fore Street there is a fine example of an

early 18th century arcaded Guildhall. Built in

1740 by Richard, Lord Edgcumbe, the ground

floor was originally an open Corn Market with

the town lock-up behind and the guildhall on

the first floor. John Betjeman is reputed to

have said ‘There is history in every stone in

Lostwithiel’. Today, the building is home to

the Lostwithiel Museum, which charts eight

centuries of local history from the time the

town claimed to be Cornwall’s capital to the

present day. The area’s military history is

most vividly captured in the imposing ruins of

Restormel Castle, crowning a hill 1 mile

upriver from Lostwithiel (see also Polscoe).

The striking St Bartholomew Parish

Church has a distinctive octagonal spire and

its Breton-style design is a reminder of the

close links between the Celts of Cornwall and

those of northern France. Dedicated to the

patron saint of the sick and of tanners

(tanning was another industry of medieval

Lostwithiel), the church, like other parts of

the town, still bears some scars from the

Civil War when the area became a

battleground between the opposing forces.

Braddock Down, to the east, was the site of

a Royalist victory in 1643. During that war,

Cornwall was strongly Royalist, and in 1644

the Parliamentarians tried to take the town

once more, this time succeeding. A curious

tale is told of how the Parliamentarian troops

led a horse into St Bartholomew’s Church and

baptised it ‘Charles’, using water from the

church’s font. By September of the same year

they had been forced to abandon the town to

the Royalists.

BELLAMAMA DELI

Lostwithiel

Located in the picturesque town of Lostwithiel, isthe much acclaimedBellamama delicatessan, awell stocked deli offering avast array of local andcontinental produce.


41 THE PARADE

Lostwithiel

A combination ofboutique clothingcollections alongsidewonderful contemporaryart.


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RESTORMEL CASTLE

nr Lostwithiel

A former strongholdof the Earls ofCornwall, thesebeautiful ruinsoccupy a peacefulhilltop setting.


40 ROOMS AT POLGASSICK

Polgassick, nr Lostwithiel

Friendly owner offersaccommodation in theform of two comfortablebedrooms at her home inPolgassick found just amile outside ofLostwithiel.


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Across the river from the town lies the

Boconnoc Estate, the home of the Pitt family

who gave Britain two great Prime Ministers.

Boconnoc can trace its history back to the

Normans and played a significant role in the

Civil War as recounted in the du Maurier

novel The King’s General. Nowadays,

Boconnoc House and its surrounding estate is

one of the most beautiful locations in hidden

Cornwall. The house and park have been used

for numerous film locations including the BBC

Poldark series and scenes from the 1993 film

of The Three Musketeers. It is also used for

weddings and events.

AROUND LOSTWITHIEL

POLSCOE

On a minor road 1 mile N of Lostwithiel

Lostwithiel’s strategic position, as a riverside

port and important crossing point, led to the

building of Restormel Castle. The

magnificent Norman keep of local slate shale

rock was built in the early 12th century by

Edmund, Earl of Cornwall, and with walls

that are 8 feet thick in places and a deep

moat surrounding the whole fortress, this was

certainly a stronghold worthy of the powerful

Earls. Twice visited by the Black Prince, it

finally saw action during the Civil War in

1644. By that time the castle was already in

a sorry state, and Royalist forces under Sir

Richard Grenville found it easy to prise it out

of the hands of the Earls of Essex’s

Parlimaentarian army. The bailey disappeared

many years ago, as did the park, where there

were once 300 deer. It’s a peaceful,

panoramic spot, an easy walk from

Lostwithiel and good for a picnic.

LERRYN

2 miles S of Lostwithiel on a minor road

If Lostwithiel is the gateway to River Fowey

Valley, then halfway down the estuary and

hidden away up its own stunning creek,

Lerryn is its gem. A quiet and peaceful

village, Lerryn is a place that one almost

wants to keep secret so that it does not

become a popular destination. Pronounced

‘Ler-in’ the name is Cornish for ‘waters’ and

it is the constant coming and going of the

tidal river that gives the village its appeal

and its ever changing scenery. At low tide

there are stepping stones for pedestrians to

cross to the other side.

Nestling at the head of the creek and

surrounded by dense woodland, it’s the

perfect place for a walk to view the scenery

and wildlife. There has been a crossing over

the River Lerryn for more than 700 years; the

current pretty stone arch bridge was built

around 1573. It is said that the woods

bordering the river here may well have been

Kenneth Grahame’s inspiration for the Wild

Wood in Wind in the Willows. It takes little

imagination to conjure in one’s mind Ratty

and Mole scrurrying along the charming

riverbank. The village lies within the

boundaries of two parishes, St Veep and St

Winnow, with St Veep Parish Church named

for a Celtic saint. Much restored in the 19th

century the church retains features that date

back to the 14th century. On the south bank

of the river you can walk to what is locally

know as Tivoli Park, complete with fountains

and follies. It was an ideal spot for the

popular village regatta, last held in 1968.

Lerryn provides some first-class walks, along

the riverbank and through the woods.

ST AUSTELL

Six miles west of Fowey, and the nearest

town to the Eden Project (a living theatre of

plants), St Austell is a bustling market town,

which for many centuries had been at the

centre of the local tin and copper quarrying

and mining industries. It was a Quaker,

William Cookworthy, who transformed this

COLLON BARTON

Lerryn

On the banks of theRiver Fowey, thistranquil bed andbreakfast offers gloriousviews and tours of itsown working farm.


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part of Cornwall. In 1746 he

discovered huge reserves of high

quality china clay in the area, at a

time when Britain was having to

import clay of a lesser quality from

Europe. The discovery saw a dramatic

change to St Austell and the

surrounding landscape. Over the

years, the waste material from the

clay pits to the north and west of the

town has been piled into great

conical spoil heaps. These bare,

bleached uplands have caused this

area to be dubbed the Cornish Alps.

More recently, steps have been taken

to soften the countryside and the heaps and

disused pits have been landscaped to re-

create Cornish heathland. They now have

gently undulating footpaths and nature trails.

Although the china clay industry has

dominated St Austell, for more than 250

years, the town is also the home of another

important local business - the St Austell

Brewery, the main provider of ales in the

county and still owned by the same family

who established the brewery in 1851. The

history of the company and an insight into

the brewing process can be found at the

informative St Austell Brewery Visitor

Centre, from where visitors are also taken

on a guided tour of the brewery that

includes a sample of the traditional cask-

conditioned ales.

The narrow streets of old St Austell

create an atmosphere more befitting a

market town than a busy mining and

industrial community. The main

thoroughfares all radiate from Holy Trinity

Parish Church, an imposing building with a

tall 15th century tower that has, inside, a

curious Norman font that is carved with an

assortment of grotesque human heads and

mythical creatures. Elsewhere in the town

there are some other notable older buildings

including the 17th century Market House, a

Quaker Meeting House built in 1829, and the

White Hart Hotel, a former town house.

Meanwhile, just to the east of the town

centre, among rhododendrons and beech

trees, is Menacuddle Well. Another of

Cornwall’s many holy wells, this particular

source of curative water is housed in a small

granite shrine. It was originally built in the

15th century, but restored by Sir Charles

Graves Sawle in 1922. As well as curing a

number of ailments, good luck could be had

by throwing a crooked pin into its waters.

Also on the eastern side of St Austell,

Pinetum Park and Pine Lodge Gardens (open

all year), has 30 acres of beautiful gardens

featuring over 6,000 plants including many

Mediterranean species lovingly created by

Shirley and Ray Clemo.

AROUND ST AUSTELL

CARTHEW

2 miles N of St Austell on the B3274

Situated in the heart of the Cornish Alps, this

tiny village is surrounded by the spoils of the

china clay industry. Just to the south lies the

Wheal Martyn China Clay Museum and

Country Park. Everything you ever wanted to

know about the china clay industry is

Pine Lodge Gardens, St Austell

THE WHITE PYRAMID

Trewoon

This recently refurbishedinn offers family and guestaccommodation, adelicious British menu anda children friendly beergarden for the summer.


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revealed here. It’s an extensive and

absorbing exhibition, allowing a close-up

view of how the pits were operated, with

tours round the old clay workings, along with

the original locomotives and wagons used in

the pits. There is plenty to interest all the

family with an adventure trail for children

over 10 years. With 26 acres of park land,

there is an abundance of wildlife, including

deer, butterflies and variety of birds.

BUGLE

4 miles N of St Austell on the A391

This relatively modern village was built in the

19th century to house miners and their

families, who were brought into the area to

work at the numerous china clay pits. In

common with other mining communities

throughout the country, Cornwall’s mining

villages also have a musical tradition and, in

Cornwall, it was common for villages to have

their own brass band. Each year, the

musicians came together to show off their

skills and compete. As a music festival was

held here, Bugle has a particularly apt name,

though in fact the name comes from a pub

which still stands here.

LUXULYAN

4 miles NE of St Austell off the A390

Found lying between the moorland above and

the steep, wooded Luxulyan Valley below,

this old village of granite cottages has a very

scenic location. Across this boulder strewn

valley stands the engineering wonder Treffry

Viaduct, which was built between 1839 and

1842 by Joseph Thomas Treffry as part of the

railway line between Par and Newquay. Over

90 feet high and 670 feet long, the viaduct

was constructed to carry horse drawn wagons

and water across the Luxulyan valley. The

viaduct was also important in the

establishment of the newly created port of

Par and mineral ores, quarried stone and

fresh water were all transported along the

line to the port. Treffry become known as the

‘King of Mid Cornwall’ for his remarkable

achievement.

ST BLAZEY

3½ miles E of St Austell on the A390

To the west of the village, in the heart of the

china clay area, lies a disused pit that has

become the centre of the ambitious and

world-famous Eden Project, named after The

Garden of Eden. Eden is the inspiration of

Tim Smit, the leading light behind the rescue

of the Lost Gardens of Heligan (see also

Pentewan). The aim of this on-going project,

one of the most successful enterprises ever

undertaken in Cornwall, is to promote the

understanding and responsible management

of the vital relationship between plants,

people and resources. At the bottom of a

giant crater over 160 feet deep are the

largest ‘biodomes’ or conservatories in the

world where, in the space of a day, visitors

can walk from steamy rainforests to the

warmth of the Mediterranean. Throughout,

the long and sometimes fragile relationship

between man and plants is explored with a

view to informing and educating visitors as

well as looking ahead towards the future. In

the midst of the complex, world, jazz and

other genres of music are performed in a

lawn-carpeted arena. These are either free

day events or full-on concerts at night – Fleet

Foxes, Primeval Scream and Pendulum are

among the big names lined up for the 2011

Eden Sessions. Consult the website for news

of events.

St Blazey’s Parish Church, at the south

end of the village, dates from around 1440,

and is dedicated to St Blaise, a 4th century

bishop from Armenia, who after being

discovered in prayer and unwilling to recant

his faith, was thrown into a lake to drown.

Blaise stood on the surface and invited his

persecutors to walk out and prove the power

THE KINGS ARMS

Bridges, nr Luxulyan

The closest pub to theEden Project offersdelicious home cookedfood and awardwinning real Cornishbrews.


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of their gods; they drowned. When he

returned to land, he was martyred by firstly

being beaten, then his flesh was torn from his

bones and only then was he finally beheaded.

PAR

3 miles E of St Austell on the A3082

The harbour was built here in the 1840s as

part of the expansion of the china clay

industry and, today, the terminals, erected in

the 1960s, still handle the clay. The tall and

slender chimneys of the clay processing plants

can be seen from Par Sands, a large,

sheltered sandy beach bordered by sand dunes

ideal for exploring wildlife. This is the perfect

setting for a lazy day. Contrastingly, to the

east of the beach lies a low rocky cliff where,

at low tide, Little Hell Cove can be reached.

TREGREHAN MILLS

2 miles E of St Austell off the A391

Lying just southeast of the village is the 19th

century Tregrehan Gardens, where visitors

can not only see many mature trees from

places such as North America and Japan, but

also rhododendrons and a range of Carlyon

hybrid camellias. The glasshouses date from

1846, and the house and estate has been the

home of the Carlyon family from 1565.

CARLYON BAY

2 miles SE of St Austell off the A390

This modern seaside resort lies almost at the

centre of the long and sweeping St Austell

Bay. Sheltered by Gribbin Head and Dodman

Point, this bay is home to numerous beaches,

including, at Carlyon Bay, Crinnis and

neighbouring Polgaver.

CHARLESTOWN

1 mile SE of St Austell off the A390

St Austell’s nearest link to the sea is at

Charlestown, an unspoilt port that’s an easy -

mile downhill walk from the centre. This was

originally a small fishing village called West

Polmear until the 1970’s when it was named

after the entrepreneur Charles Rashleigh who

built a harbour here to support the growing

china clay industry and also for the importing

of coal. Other ports with better facilities,

such as Fowey and Plymouth, contributed to

the decline of trade through Charlestown’s

harbour in the 19th century, and though some

china clay is still exported from here, today

this harbour and village remains a Georgian

time capsule. Charlestown became familiar as

the television location for Poldark and The

Onedin Line.

Close to the docks, and housed in a

historic clay building, the Charlestown

Shipwreck & Heritage Centre, is entered

through tunnels once used to convey the clay

to the docks, and shows a good collection of

photos and relics that have been recovered

from over 150 shipwrecks, as well as

tableaux of historical scenes. One notable

display tells the story of Frederick James

Banfield, who was born in Helston in 1884.

He perished in the sinking of the Titanic, and

though his body was never recovered, many

of the original letters he sent to his family

are on display, along with other Titanic

artefacts. It is estimated that there have

been over 3,000 recorded shipwrecks round

the coast of Cornwall, so this is the ideal

place to site such a centre which has

artefacts from over 150 wrecks worldwide.

On each side of Charlestown’s dock are

coarse-sand and stone beaches sprinkled with

ATISHOO DESIGNS

Charlestown

A contemporary arts andcrafts gallery situated inthe village ofCharlestown, adesignated World HeritageSite and home to three working tall ships.


48

THE SHIPWRECK & HERITAGECENTRE

Charlestown

An interesting heritagecentre packed full ofinformation and artefactson shipwrecks from aroundthe coast of Cornwall.


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small rock pools, above which cliff walks lead

to the beaches around St Austell Bay.

PENTEWAN

3 miles S of St Austell off the B3273

The east-facing shoreline, to the south of St

Austell, shelters some pretty villages,

including Pentewan, which is pronounced

‘Pen-tuan’. Many visitors to the village end

up on the broad, sandy Pentewan Beach, but

a more engaging option is to head inland

from the village to the awesome display of

greenery at the Lost Gardens of Heligan, one

of the country’s most interesting gardens - or,

more properly, series of gardens. Situated at

the heart of one of the most mysterious

estates in England, Heligan Manor was the

seat of the Tremayne family for more than

400 years. It was a huge estate, of over 1,000

acres, and had its own brewery, farms, saw

mills, orchards, gardens, brickworks and flour

mill. In many ways it was self-supporting, and

had a staff of 20 ‘inside’ and 22 ‘outside’. In

World War I many of them were killed, and

the Tremaynes eventually moved away, and

the beautiful gardens were neglected.

These world famous gardens were

originally laid out in 1780 but lay undisturbed

before being rediscovered, which was largely

instigated by Tim Smit of Eden Project fame,

in 1990. The restoration of the tiny Italian

Garden was featured on the BBC’s Gardener’s

World, the first phase in one of the largest

garden restoration projects in the world.

Heligan is a real living museum of 19th

century horticulture covering 80 acres, where

the main focus is an exploration of man’s

relationship with the land. The marvelously

abundant palm trees, giant Himalayan

rhododendrons, immaculate vinery and

glasshouse scattered about the garden all

look as if they’ve been transplanted from

warmer climes. To get the most out of the

gardens, it’s worth joining one of the guided

tours, there are a range of tours available

depending on the time of year and the

interests of the group. On the wider estate,

Lost Valley comprises lakes, wetlands and

ancient broad-leaved woodland, and the

ancient practices of coppicing and charcoal-

burning take place again. Horsemoor Hide is

a wildlife interpretation centre and the Farm

Walk offers access through permanent

pasture, where hedgerows have been re-laid

and the Heligan herd of Dexter cattle grazes

the grassland slopes. Don’t miss the

delightful sleeping ‘Mud Maid’ on the

woodland walk, ‘dressed’ in moss and lichen.

These and other ‘living’ sculptures can be

found throughout the gardens.

Pentewan is also famous for its stone,

which was quarried nearby, and which was

used in the construction of many of

Cornwall’s churches and larger houses. All

Saints Parish Church, built in 1821 (but with

a Norman south wall), is a good example of a

church built in Pentewan stone.

From the village, a charming trail leads up

the beautiful Pentewan Valley which follows

the course of the White River. Taking in both

woodland and wetland, there is plenty to see

and the trail is relatively flat, thus

aiding both walkers and cyclists. If

you want to get around by bike,

head for Pentwean Valley Cycle Hire,

which also offers routes, maps,

advice, repairs and delivery services.

MEVAGISSEY

5 miles S of St Austell on the B3273

The name Mevagissey is derived

from the names of two saints, St

Meva and St Issey. The first record of

this hamlet was in 1313, but there

were local settlements as far backLost Gardens of Heligan, Pentewan

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as the Bronze Age. Two Bronze Age

burial urns were discovered at

nearby Portmellon. The largest

fishing village in St Austell Bay,

Mevagissey was, like many Cornwall

fishing villages, used for

transporting pilchards as well as

contraband. Once an important

centre of the pilchard industry, in

the 19th century catches of over

12,000 tons a year were landed

here. The catching and processing

of the fish employed nearly

everyone in the village and, as well

as smoking, salting and packing the

fish, there were boatbuilders, net

makers, rope makers, coopers and fish

merchants. The need to process the catch

within easy reach of the harbour created a

labyrinth of buildings separated by steeply

sloping alleyways. Some of these alleys were

so narrow that the baskets of fish sometimes

had to be carried on poles between people

walking one behind the other.

Mevagissey’s Inner Harbour, as it appears

today, dates from the 1770s, when an Act of

Parliament of 1774 allowed the construction

of the ‘new’ pier and jetties. The original

pier, where the East Pier now stands, dated

back as far as 1430. Many of the buildings

around this area of the town date from the

late 18th century when stone cottages and

warehouses were built in place of the town’s

original cob cottages. The Outer Harbour

was built so that the size of the port could

be increased to cater for the needs of the

growing fishing fleets. However, it was

destroyed in the Great Storm of 1891 and it

was not finally finished until 1897.

If drinking in the atmosphere on the

harbourside is not enough for you, the village

offers an excellent museum, an aquarium

displaying locally caught fish, a fine model

railway exhibition, art galleries, shops, pubs

and restaurants.

Mevagissey Museum is the village’s main

attractions. The building has as much history

as the exhibits inside: it was built in 1795 for

the construction and repair of smugglers’

boats, and most of its roof beams were

recycled from the revenue-dodgers’ old

vessels. The museum has a broad collection

of artefacts that cover not only the pilchard

industry but also old agriculture machinery, a

collection of 19th and 20th century

photographs depicting village life and the

story behind Pears soap. In 1789, Andrew

Pears, a young Cornish barber, went to

London where he began to groom the rich

and influential. His customers’ complaints

about the harshness of the available soap led

Andrew to experiment and develop a softer

soap that was more gentle on the skin - the

still popular Pears soap.

Another attraction found close to the

harbour is the World of Model Railways,

which houses a fascinating display of some

2,000 models and over 30 trains; the detailed

scenery through which the trains run is

exceptional, and even includes local features

such as the china clay hills, a Cornish tin

mine and even the fabled Beast of Bodmin

lurking in the shadows. A well-stocked model

shop caters for everyone from the enthusiast

to the complete beginner, and those

interested in Thomas the Tank Engine will

also not be disappointed.

The old RNLI lifeboat station that was

built on the quayside in 1897 to allow for

quick and easy launching has now become

The Aquarium, amazingly admission is free

but visitors are invited to make a donation -

all the money being used to maintain the

harbour. The lifeboat station closed in the

1930s after this original building had sustained

regular and repeated storm damage.

Mevagissey Harbour

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GORRAN HAVEN

7 miles S of St Austell off the B3273

Gorran Haven, a former crab-fishing village,

has a neat sandy beach that connects, at low

tide, with the longer Great Perhaver Beach

and is backed by the spectacular 370 feet

high Dodman Point. Dodman Point ranks as

one of south Cornwall’s most dramatic

headlands, and has been the cause of many a

wreck. From its gorse-covered heights, you

can look down on a chaos of reefs and rocks,

and splendid views extend westward across

Veryan Bay.

One mile inland stands St Gorran Parish

Church, which has 53 beautifully carved

ancient pews ends. The tower dates from

1606, built when the medieval steeple

collapsed. And in the village itself is the

Church of St Just, which was originally a

chapel-of-ease dating mainly from the 15th

century. After the Reformation, it was

abandoned and used to store fish nets. It

was restored as a place of worship in the

19th century.

ST MICHAEL CAERHAYS

7 miles SW of St Austell off the B3287

In a beautiful setting of wood, stream and

pasture, the battlemented Caerhays Castle,

built in 1808 by John Nash, is near the

village. Hitchcock’s 1940 film of Rebecca was

shot here. More compelling, though, are the

100 acres of wooded gardens surrounding it,

displaying a world famous collection of

camellias, magnolias and rhododendrons. The

gardens are at their best in March, April and

May, and are only open during these three

months: N.B. the dates do vary from year to

year, consult the website before visiting. Also

St Michael’s Parish Church in the village is

well worth visiting.

TRURO

Connected to the Carrick Roads, Truro called

after Tri-veru meaning three rivers, which

includes the rivers Kenwyn and Allen, has

developed close to the River Truro and with

good road and rail links is within easy reach

of almost every part of Cornwall. The arrival

of the railway in 1859 confirmed Truro’s

status as a regional capital and the granting

of city status in 1877 ensured that Truro has

remained Cornwall’s commercial and

administrative centre. The city’s heritage is

as a market town and port dating back over

800 years, booming during the tin mining

industry. Although the river around Truro had

begun to silt up and Falmouth was taking

over as the main seagoing port of the area,

the increase in mineral prices during the 18th

century saw a revival of Truro’s fortunes.

Wealthy merchants and bankers moved into

the town and Truro became fashionable

within high society, its reputation rivalling

that of Bath. A number of picturesque

GRAVY

Truro

One of Truro’s newestrestaurant experiencesoffering a freshapproach to dining,coupled with anenviable service.


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Truro Cathedral

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alleyways, or ‘opes’, have survived from

Truro’s days as a port and many have

colourful names such as Tippet’s Backlet,

Burton’s Ope and Squeezeguts Alley.

Nowadays the port is mostly used for

pleasure cruises along the tributaries of the

River Fal to Falmouth and St Mawes. The city

is an excellent shopping centre, which comes

to life at Christmas with the City of Lights

lantern procession, now an established

tradition in Truro.

Truro’s most striking feature is the

Cathedral, the first cathedral to be

constructed on a new site since Salisbury,

which commenced building in 1222. With its

emphatically pointed arches and elaborate

roof vaulting, the airy interior is notable for

its Victorian stained glass windows,

considered the finest collection in the

country. Other treasures include two 14th

century statues from Brittany given to Bishop

Frere in 1929, the Bath stone reredos behind

the high altar, and the terracotta panel Way

of the Cross by George Tinworth. The

cathedral has three organs, the most famous

of these is the Father Willis Organ of 1887

which is widely regarded as one of the finest

instruments in the country. Free lunchtime

recitals on the famous organ take place every

Friday from mid-March to mid-October.

If you are spending any time in the county

a visit to the Royal Cornwall Museum,

housed in what was the Truro Savings Bank

building, provides some essential context to

your travels. The museums explores the

history of the county from the Stone Age

right up to the present day, whilst the art

gallery is the home of works by Cornish artist

John Opie, Constable and Turner as well as

paintings by the Newlyn School of Artists. If

you want to delve further into Cornwall’s

past and present then the museum’s

Courtney Library is an invaluable archive of

manuscripts, housing around 150,000 items

including, photographs, references works, art

books, engravings and ephemera.

Truro is fortunate in having some

excellent parks and gardens, Victoria

Gardens beside the River Kenwyn, originally

created to commemorate Queen Victoria’s

Diamond Jubilee, is filled with exotic trees,

shrubs and flowers. You would not think you

were in the middle of a city, the calm broken

only occasionally by a train passing over the

majestic granite viaduct nearby. The original

viaduct was built by Isambard Kingdom Brunel

in 1859, but was replaced with the present

structure in 1904, and now carries the main

line from Paddington to Penzance.

Beside the Truro River, is Boscawen Park,

named after Admiral Edward Boscawen, the

younger son of Lord Falmouth, is the city’s

main open space with tennis courts, and

cricket and football pitches. One of the city’s

best-known landmarks is a column

commemorating the Lander brothers, Richard

and John, who were born in Truro in the first

decade of the 19th century. In 1830 Richard

was commissioned to go to Africa to try to

discover the source of the River Niger, and in

1832 he was awarded the first gold medal of

the Royal Geographical Society.

A mile from the city centre, surrounding a

private house, are Bosvigo Gardens,

beautifully planted with summer herbaceous

borders to give the impression of moving

from one room to another. The gardens are

open from March to the end of September.

Truro’s theatre, The Hall for Cornwall, is the

largest theatre in Cornwall and can be found

at Back Quay, in the heart of the city. A lively

programme (of events is offered throughout

the year.

AROUND TRURO

PROBUS

4½ miles NE of Truro off the A390

The granite tower of St Probus’s and St

THE HERON INN

Malpas, nr Truro

Sipping a glass of cold whitewine before a bowl ofsteaming mussels overlookingthe glorious estuary on theHeron’s sun drenchedterrace; heaven.


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Grace’s Parish Church is the

tallest and grandest in all of

Cornwall at 125 feet high. The

saints to whom it is dedicated

are also unusual, in that they

were husband and wife. During

renovation, male and female

skulls were discovered buried

near the altar, and it is thought

that they were of the two

saints.

Just to the west of the

village lies a place that will be

of great interest to gardeners -

Trewithen House and Gardens.

Built in the 1730’s by Philip

Hawkins, this early Georgian house, whose

name literally means ‘house of the trees’, is

filled with paintings, furniture and other

artefacts collected over the years by the

Hawkins family. At the front of the house

there is a small museum housing a number of

historical curios - including the only full set

of horse boots in Cornwall. Horse boots were

made of leather and were worn to stop

hooves cutting up the lawn whilst it was

being cut. Though Trewithen House is itself

worth a visit, most people come to see the

gardens. These gardens covering some 30

acres, were created in the early years of the

last century, are outstanding and

internationally famous. They are renowned

for their magnificent 24 Champion Trees and

rare species of flowering shrubs, among them

magnolias and rhododendrons, and a notable

camellia collection that includes x williamsii,

a cross between camellia saluensis and

camellia japonica.

ST CLEMENT

1½ miles E of Truro off the A390

Though little more than a suburb of Truro

nowadays, this hamlet should be visited to

see the 14th century St Clement’s Parish

Church. The church is on an ancient site, for

a Dark Age inscribed stone, (dedicated to

Isniocus Vitalis, a 3rd century Roman, but

which also bears inscriptions in the ancient

Ogham alphabet of the Celts) was found

here. The place has long been a favourite

with painters and photographers, perhaps

because it has an unusual lych gate, with an

upper room that was reputedly once used as

the village school.

TREGONY

6 miles E of Truro on the B3287

Often referred to as the gateway to the

Roseland Peninsula, this village was, in the

14th century, a busy river port long before

Truro and Falmouth had developed. Built on

the wealth of the local woollen trade, the

surrounding mills produced a rough serge

known as Tregony Cloth, but due to tin

streaming in the St Stephen’s area the river

eventually silted up and the harbour became

unusable.

Despite no longer being a main port,

Tregony remains a very quaint and charming

village. There are still some features of the

village that should be seen when visiting. On

Fore Street there is an unusual clock tower,

and there is also an almshouse that was built

in the 17th century, which features an

Trewithen House, Probus

THE KINGS ARMS

Tregony

This traditional innoffers fine homecooking, accreditedreal Cornish ales and aunique wishing well inthe bar.


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unusual wooden gallery. Also as you climb up

Tregony Hill you pass the site of a Roman

Castle known as Treg-ney, from which the

village got its name.

RUAN LANIHORNE

4 miles SE of Truro off the A3078

Situated on the old main coaching route

from London to Penzance, this now quiet

village is a bird lovers’ paradise as the creek

is a haven for waders and waterfowl. St

Rumon’s Parish Church dates mainly from

the 14th century, and is dedicated to a saint

who is also the patron saint of Tavistock in

Devon. In Brittany he is known as St Ronan.

He is said to have been a royal prince who

lived the life of a hermit in Ireland until he

was consecrated bishop.

VERYAN


This charming village, set in a wooded

hollow, is famous for its five Roundhouses

which lie at the entrances to Veryan. Built in

the early 19th century for the daughters of

the local vicar, Jeremiah Trist, the

whitewashed cottages each have a conical

thatched roof with a wood cross at the apex.

It was believed that their circular shape

would guard the village from evil as the Devil

would be unable to hide in any corners.

Today, however, the Veryan Roundhouses have

been extended with conventional devil

friendly square buildings!

PORTLOE

7½ miles SE of Truro off the A3078

The name Portloe comes from the Cornish

‘Porth Logh’ which means, ‘cove pool’.

Portloe village is seen by most as a gem on

the Roseland Peninusla and is the living

reality of a Cornish fishing village, with stone

cottages surrounding the tiny harbour, which

is overshadowed by the steep cliff. Because

of its naturally sheltered location the village

flourished during the 17th and 18th centuries

as a pilchard fishing port. A lot of smuggling

took place at Portloe during the

19th century. The item of choice

for the smugglers was French

brandy, which was brought

ashore to Portloe and hidden in

cellars by fishermen and local

farmers.

To the east of Portloe, the

cove of Portholland and

Caerhays Castle and beach can

be reached within 10 minutes.

CARNE

6½ miles SE of Truro off the A3078

Overlooking Gerrans Bay on land

owned by the National Trust

stands Carne Beacon. One of

the largest Bronze Age barrows in the

country, this ancient burial mound is thought

to be the grave of King Geraint, who, in the

5th century, is said to have rowed across the

bay in a golden boat with silver oars. He is

reputed to have been buried in full regalia,

but recent excavations have failed to confirm

this story. An interesting 2-mile geological

THE ROSELANDINN

Philleigh, nr Truro

Spectacular business with awarm and inviting ambience.One of the few properties tohave their own micro brewery, providing deliciousreal ales in a truly unspoilt rural setting.


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Veryan Round Houses

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trail runs from the car park at Pendower

along the beach to Carne and back again by

the public footpath. During World War II

Cornwall’s first above-ground aircraft

reporting post, made of wood and containing

observation and plotting equipment, was

sited at Carne Beacon, though many local

people objected strongly to such a historic

site being used.

PORTSCATHO


Portscatho, along with many other villages

along the south coast including St Mawes and

Mevagissey, were well known for pilchard

fishing, which was an important factor in the

growth of the local economy. This pleasant

and unspoilt fishing village, with its sandy

beach on Gerrans Bay, is well worth a visit and

may appear familiar to anyone who watched

the television drama, The Camomile Lawn, as

it was used as the filming location. Nowadays

Portscatho, and the neighbouring village of

Gerrans, have almost joined to form one

village. Only five-minutes’ walk apart, Gerrans

lies at the top of the hill above Portscatho and

the medieval spire has acted as a landmark to

generations of local sailors.

ST MAWES

7½ miles S of Truro on the A3078

Sloping to the sea, this pretty village is lined

with attractive villas, gardens and thatched

cottages. Overlooking the breathtaking River

Fal and Falmouth, St Mawes is a popular

sailing centre in the shelter of Carrick Roads,

with a safe anchorage and good beaches.

Most people come here to see the small and

pristine St Mawes Castle, just out of sight a

few minutes’ walk north of the village. Like

Pendennis Castle, across the water in

Falmouth, St Mawes Castle was built in the

1540s, under the order of Henry VIII, to

protect Falmouth and its estuary from

invading ships. Both castles adhere to the

clover-leaf design, with a central round keep

surrounded by robust gun emplacements,

between them their cannon could cover the

entire entrance to the Fal estuary.

The parish church for St Mawes stands in

St Just in Roseland, though at one time a

small chapel dedicated to St Mawes, or

Mandatus, stood in the town along with his

‘holy chair’ and ‘holy well’. Not a stone from

any of them now remains.

ST ANTHONY

9 miles S of Truro off the A3078

At the southernmost tip of the Roseland

Peninsula is St Anthony Headland. At the foot

of this squat headland stands St Anthony’s

Lighthouse, which was built in 1835 and

replaced a coal beacon that for centuries had

warned sailors off the infamous Manacles, a

reef jutting out from the Lizard Peninsula. It

is well worth exploring, especially for the

throngs of seabirds that nest hereabouts.

This headland, which guards the entrance

into Carrick Roads, has had a strategic

importance for many years and, on the cliff

top behind the lighthouse, are the remains

of St Anthony Battery. In military use right

up until the 1950s, this was a significant

World War II observation post. Further back

in history, about 450 years ago, coastal

defences were provided by Henry VIII who

built St Mawes Castle and Pendennis Castle

in Falmouth.

ST JUST IN ROSELAND

6 miles S of Truro on the B3289

This enchanting hamlet is home to the

exquisite 13th century St Just Parish Church,

which lies in one of the most superb settings

in the country. Surrounded by gardens that

contain many subtropical trees and shrubs,

including African fire bush and Chilean myrtle

- it is probably Cornwall’s most photographed

THE ROYAL STANDARD

Gerrans

This traditionalinn has a realsense of historyand offers itsguests delicious homemade Cornish food and awardwinning ales.


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church, and arguably its

most beautiful. The present

church was dedicated to St

Just on 14th August 1261, by

Walter, Bishop of Exeter,

and the chancel with its

double piscina is of this

date. St Just is said to have

been a son of Geriant of

Anglesey, after whom

Gerrans Bay is named. A.V.

Morton, in his book In

Search of England, called

the churchyard ‘one of the

little known glories of

England’. Unfortunately, the

interior of the church does

not live up to expectations as it underwent a

clumsy Victorian restoration.

TRELISSICK

3½ miles S of Truro off the B3289

The Trelissick Estate stands at the head of

the estuary of the River Fal. There are

beautiful landscaped gardens featuring

hydrangeas, rhododendrons, camellias, 500

acres of parkland and riverside woods

overlooking the River Fal and Carrick Roads.

The estate’s Cornish apple orchard is another

interesting feature here and it was created to

preserve many traditional apple species. The

18th century house is dominated by a

columned portico, which was added in the

mid 19th century. The 12-bedroom manor

house is owned and lived in by the Copeland

family and is not open to the public.

However, several of the outbuildings have

been converted to take visitors; in the

stables is a display of saddlery, while another

building is home to Trelissick Gallery, a

showcase for the work of artists and

craftsmen working in Cornwall. The shop sells

gifts, souvenirs, books and plants, and light

refreshments and lunches are served. It is

open all year.

Close to the estate is the landing point of

the King Harry Ferry which takes cars and

passengers across the narrow, yet deep,

stretch of water on the River Fal between

Feock on the west bank and Philleigh on the

Roseland Peninsula. There has been a ferry

crossing at this point for centuries; the latest

chain ferry was installed in 2006 and is one

of only six chain ferries at work in Britain.

River trips can be taken in summer from

either Truro or Falmouth across to the new

pontoon at Trelissick.

FEOCK

4 miles S of Truro off the B3289

A picture perfect village, with charming

whitewashed thatched cottages, Feock is on

the Carrick Roads part of the Fal estuary. A

Trelissick House and Gardens

HALWYN’S TEA GARDENS

Old Kea, nr Truro

A beautifully oldfashioned tea garden setin the gardens of acharming Cornishcottage overlooking thebanks of the River Fal.


54 THE OLD QUAY INN

Devoran

This long establishedtraditional pub, situatedat the head ofRestronguet Creek inDevoran, is enjoying arenaissance under newowners Hannah and John Calland.


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pleasant creekside walk - start at Point, just

to the west of the village and head towards

Devoran along the side of Restronguet Creek

- traces the course of an old tramway, which

dates from the time when this area was not

as peaceful and tranquil as it is today but

was a bustling port serving inland Cornwall.

To the south of Feock, a country lane leads

to the tip of Restronguet Point giving great

views but, unfortunately, there is no parking

or turning at the end.

MYLOR BRIDGE

5½ miles S of Truro off the A39

Both Mylor Bridge and Mylor Churchtown are

popular yachting centres with a club and

many water-borne activities. Mylor

Churchtown, at the mouth of the creek, is

the smaller of the two and was once a

dockyard and landing place for the packet

ships which carried mail throughout the

world. It is now known as Mylor Yacht

Harbour.

St Mylor Parish Church has a scenic

churchyard that contains many amusing

inscriptions on the tombstones as well as,

close to the south porch, a round-headed

Celtic Cross which, at over 17 feet tall, is

one of the tallest in Cornwall. Just 10 feet

now show above the ground. Dating from the

10th century, it was rediscovered during

restorations in Victorian times after having

been used for centuries as a flying buttress

against the south wall of the church. Some

people have speculated that at one time it

may have marked St Mylor’s grave.

To the northeast of Mylor

Bridge, a country lane leads to

the Pandora Inn. A typical

whitewashed and thatched 17th

century inn, it was known as

the Passage House until 1850,

when its name was changed to

the present one. Some claim

that the new name comes from

the ship which was sent out to

capture the mutineers from the

Bounty, while others claim it

was named after a small

schooner that regularly sailed

between Truro and Plymouth carrying drink. In

fact it was probably named after a packet

ship, which carried mail from Falmouth to

Europe and beyond.

FLUSHING

7 miles S of Truro off the A39

Another popular yachting centre, this small

village was built by settlers from Vlissingen in

Holland in the 17th century and still retains a

Dutch appearance. A prosperous port in the

17th and 18th centuries, Flushing’s narrow

streets are home to some fine Queen Anne

houses, many of which were built to house sea

captains and naval officers.

FALMOUTH

8 miles S of Truro on the A39

In Britain’s Western Approaches and guarding

the entrance into Carrick Roads, Falmouth is

a spectacular deep-water anchorage that is

the world’s third deepest natural harbour.

The place was originally called Peny-cwn-

cuik, which very soon became Anglicised as

‘Pennycomequick’. It was the construction of

Pendennis Castle, by Henry VIII, in the 16th

century that really prepared the ground for

the growth of Falmouth. Today it is

Falmouth’s most popular attraction, it’s a

less refined contemporary of the castle at St

Mawes (see also St Mawes), but the site on

its own pointed peninsula wins hands down,

the stout ramparts offering superb panoramic

views. Its low circular keep has extremely

thick walls and it stands within a 16-sided

Pendennis Castle, Falmouth

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enclosure - the outer curtain wall was added

in response to the threat of a second Spanish

Armada in Elizabethan times. One of the last

Royalist strongholds to fall during the Civil

War (in 1646), and then only after a grim five

month siege from land and sea, Pendennis

Castle remained in use up until the end of

World War II.

Although a settlement has existed here

for hundreds of years, it was not until the

17th century that the port was properly

developed. During its heyday, in the early

19th century, Falmouth was the base for

almost 40 packet ships delivering mail, but, a

few decades later, the introduction of steam-

powered vessels heralded the end of

Falmouth’s mail delivery service as it lost out

to Southampton. Today the port town has

retained its maritime importance as the start

and finish of many a transatlantic voyage,

and regularly hosts international, national

and local sailing events. Promising an

experience ‘as big as the sea’, the National

Maritime Museum Cornwall on Discovery

Quay is home to Cornwall’s Maritime Heritage

and the National Small Boat Collection, and

special exhibitions include the Falmouth First

and Last Gallery, highlighting the importance

of Falmouth’s nautical heritage. You can

climb to the top of the Lookout Tower for

breathtaking views over the harbour, docks

and estuary. Pirates and smugglers too were

attracted to Falmouth and, on Custom House

Quay stands an early 19th century brick-built

incinerator and chimney known as the

Queen’s Pipe. It was here that contraband

tobacco seized by Falmouth’s customs men

was burnt.

As well as carrying commercial cargoes

around the world, the ships coming into

Falmouth also brought exotic plants from

such places as China, Australia and the

Americas. Many of the subtropical trees and

shrubs ended up in private gardens but the

town’s four central public gardens, Fox

Rosehill, Queen Mary, Kimberley Park and

Gyllyngdune are also packed with such

plants as magnolias and palms which all

benefit from the mild climate. Gyllyngdune

Gardens have a splendid centrepiece in the

shape of an Edwardian bandstand; a grotto

walkway links the formal gardens to the

seafront area.

Among a long list of events that take

place every year, of special note are the Fal

River Festival (lateMay/earlyJune), Falmouth

Sea Shanty Festival (mid-June) and the

Falmouth Oyster Festival (mid-October).

West of Pendennis Point stretches a series

of long sand bays with various beaches, the

most popular of these, Gyllyngvase Beach, is

the only beach of the RNLI Carrick district

PEA SOUK

Falmouth

This quirky little restaurantis tucked away off the mainstreet, focusing on deliciousMiddle Eastern flavours andsumptuous vegetariancuisine.


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FINN M’COULS

Falmouth

Great Irish pub in thecentre of Falmouth filledwith live music, livelypeople and a fantasticatmosphere.


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TREGENNA GUEST HOUSE & CASTLEBEACH CAFÉ

Falmouth

Welcoming guest house offeringunbeatable comfort with eight well-appointed bedrooms. Castle BeachCafé serves a range of drinks andfreshly prepared light meals.


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NATIONAL MARITIME MUSEUM

Falmouth

Offering a wide range of hands-on displays, asuperb collection of small boats, demonstrations ofboat-building, lectures, aresearch library, ameteorology gallery,remote-control scale-modelboats and exhibitions.


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that is on the South Coast.

Gylly, as it’s affectionately

known, is one of few beaches in

Cornwall that has sand as well

as reef, and on a bright day

when the sea is calm and glassy,

there’s nothing better than

taking a snorkel, mask and fins

into the water to have a look at

how much life there is around

here. Big waves are rare here

and so Gyllngvase is a favourite

among families, sunbathers and

swimmers rather than surfers.

While for those looking for a

wilder time there is the Ships

and Castles Leisure Centre, complete with

its rapid river run, flume and wave machine.

For those keen to explore the upper

reaches of Carrick Roads by boat, a number

of pleasure trips depart from Prince of Wales

pier, as do the passenger ferry to St Mawes

and several others along the coast. A short

distance from the pier is the tree-lined

square known as the Moor, where the town

hall and award-winning Falmouth Art Gallery

can be found. The gallery is home to one of

Cornwall’s most noteworthy collections of

paintings, including pieces by many

prominent local English artists. Both seasonal

exhibitions and an extensive permanent

collection are on offer here, including

watercolours, oil paintings and many pictures

with a strong maritime theme. Entry is free.

A little way outside town is Swanpool

Nature Reserve, a brackish lagoon that is

home to a wide variety of wildlife. Over 100

species of birds have been recorded at this

Site of Special Scientific Interest, and one

creature is unique to Swanpool: this is the

Trembling Sea Mat, which belongs to the

primitive group Bryozoa.

PENRYN

7 miles SW of Truro on the B3292

Penryn is perhaps one of the oldest towns in

the Cornwall districts. It was founded in

1216, receiving a royal charter from King

James’s I in 1621. Before Falmouth’s rise to

prominence in Tudor times, Penryn was the

controlling port at the mouth of Carrick

Roads. At one time, granite quarried close by

was shipped from here all over the world, in

fact, some of the most prominent dwellings

and world renowned monuments were built

from the granite stone quarried in Penryn; to

name a few- London Bridge and Singapore

harbour.

Centuries ago, the small port town served

as home and educational quarters for many

priests in training. The Glasney College or

Priory was founded in the mid 12th century;

but later demolished in the 15th century.

Today, visitors are permitted to view the

relics of what is left of the famous college.

Since Penryn’s beginnings were built on

education it seemed only right when Penryn

was asked to be the new home of the

University of Exeter’s Institute of Cornish

Studies and world-renowned Camborne

School of Mines. One of the specialists in

mining education, Robert Hunt, is

remembered here in the school’s impressive

Geological Museum, which displays minerals

and rocks from all over the world.

MISS PEAPODS

Penryn

This contemporary and pioneering café strikes anexquisite balancebetween the comfort ofhome cooking andMediterraneansensibilities.


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Penryn was the home of Thomas Pellow

(born circa 1704) who spent two decades as a

white slave in Morocco. Pirates captured him

in 1715 when he was just 11-years-old. He

stayed 23 years as a captive before escaping

back to England. Pellow’s story is told in his

autobiography, The History of the Long

Captivity and Adventures of Thomas Pellow

(1740) and in White Gold: The Extraordinary

Story of Thomas Pellow and North Africa’s

One Million European Slaves (2007) by Giles

Milton. A fascinating insight into local history

can be found at Penryn’s museum, located on

the ground floor of the town hall.

Another reminder of the town’s maritime

past is the illusive tale of a family wiped out

through greed, which forms the basis of the

play, The Penryn Tragedy. After years at sea,

a young sailor from Penryn returned to his

parents’ home, Bohelland Barn, and, as a

joke, he disguised himself as a rich man but

not before telling his sister of his plan. His

parents, overcome with temptation on

meeting this rich stranger, murdered the

young man for his money. Next morning, the

sister came in search of her brother and the

full horror of their crime caused her parents

to commit suicide. The particulars connected

with this horrid deed, were preserved in a

small pamphlet, which was published in 1618,

the same year the event is said to have taken

place. This curious pamphlet, however, no

longer appears to be in existence.

CAMBORNE

Once the capital of Cornwall’s

main tin and copper mining area,

Camborne and neighbouring

Redruth at one time accounted

for two-thirds of the world’s

copper production. In the 1850s,

there were well over 300 pits in

the area employing some 50,000

workers. At the end of the 19th

century the mines had to close

when the discovery of extensive

mineral deposits in the Americas,

South Africa and Australia

rendered the local industry no

longer economically viable.

Before the mining boom, in the first half

of the 19th century, Camborne was a small

village surrounded by moorland, and the

results of its rapid expansion at the time can

still be seen in the numerous terraces of 18th

and 19th century miners’ houses. Contrasting

with these densely populated streets and

alleyways, the Literary Institute, built in

1829 in granite, has a grand Tuscan style. A

Town Trail now guides visitors around this

historic former mining town, introducing the

many interesting buildings that could easily

be missed among the bustle of Camborne’s

busy town centre. One such building is

Camborne Library, which is a fine example

of Cornish architecture. It was designed by

well-known architect Sylvanus Trevail and

opened for the first time in 1895. The St

Martin & St Meriadocus Parish Church is

another interesting building; inside the

church itself is a fascinating sight. The

‘Levuit’ altar slab is a piece of grey elvan

with a key-patterned border - historians

believe it to be at least 1,000-years-old. Left

of the Leviut stone is the memorial to Sir

William Pendarves (1726); his coffin is said to

have been made out of the first copper that

was raised from the South Roskear mine.

Camborne is particularly associated with a

number of great engineers and inventors who

helped to transform the industry and

economy of the county and made Cornish

mining engineering famous throughout the

world. It’s not surprising then, that Camborne

Trevithick Trust, Camborne

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was once home to the

School of Mines (now at

Penryn). In the town centre

you can see Richard

Trevithick’s (1771-1833)

statue, standing prominently

outside Camborne Library. In

1932, Prince George unveiled

the famous piece of work in

front of a crowd of thousands

of proud Cornish residents.

The statue depicts the

inventor with a model of the

Camborne locomotive under one arm and a

pair of dividers in the other. Look at the

panels on the statue, which lists Trevithick’s

other famous inventions. Trevithick Cottage,

at Penponds where he was born, is owned by

the National Trust, and can be visited on

Wednesday afternoons between April and

October. Though a genius, Trevithick died

penniless and was buried in an unmarked

grave in Dartford, Kent. The town still honours

its great son on the last Saturday in April each

year, with the Trevithick Day Festival.

AROUND CAMBORNE

GODREVY POINT

5 miles NW of Camborne off the B3301

Owing to its position at the northernmost tip

of Hayle’s ‘three miles of golden sand’,

Godrevy takes the brunt of the Atlantic swell

and is one of the more exposed beaches of

the north coast. It is a place of moods

ranging from buckets and spades on a sunny

summers day to classic rugged Cornish

splendour on a stormy winter’s day. Godrevy

Point is a well-known beauty spot, along with

Navax Point where seals can be sighted off

shore. The beach terminates with a low rocky

headland and a short distance from the point

lies Godrevy Island on which stands the

beautiful white lighthouse of Virginia

Woolfe’s To The Lighthouse fame. Although

the novel is set on a Hebridean island, the

lighthouse of the title is Godrevy where

Woolf spent her summers, and the story

recalls strands of her Cornish sojourns.

PORTREATH

3½ miles N of Camborne on the B3300

During the 19th century, this now quiet

village was at its busiest with over 100,000

tons of copper passing through the port and

equally vast quantities of coal were received

here from the coalfields of South Wales. Prior

to the quay being constructed by the Basset

family in 1760, copper ore from the mines

around Redruth had to be loaded on to ships

from the beach, which was not only a slow

job, but also a dangerous one. Some years

later, in 1809, the new Harbour was

connected to the mines by the first railway in

Cornwall. The Basset family was one of the

four most powerful families in Cornwall with

extensive lands and mineral rights in this

western part of the county. Inland at Carn

Brea, near Redruth, there is a memorial

dedicated to the family. With the general

decline in mining fortunes in the county in

the early years of the 20th century, the

influence of the family also waned. Tehidy

house, just south of Portreath, was destroyed

by fire and never rebuilt, though in 1918

PORTREATH ARMS

Portreath

A former sea captains residence, this wonderfulhotel is situated on the Cornish Way. Fantastictenants will make you feel athome and provide wonderfulfood, drink and bed andbreakfast accommodation.


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some of the buildings were turned into a

hospital. Today the estate is a country park

and open to the public.

Portreath is historically rich and naturally

blessed, and now cares for the needs of a

multitude of visitors each year. This popular

holiday spot has a secluded, sandy beach,

which is ideal for the family and for the more

energetic watersports enthusiasts. Like many

beaches on the north Cornish coast, surfers,

and in particular body-boarders, turn up in

force at high tide on big swells to surf the

harbour wall, or ‘Vortex’ as it is known.

Though you may be content with the beach

here, Portreath is within walking distance of

other coastal attractions, notably the awe-

inspiring Hell’s Mouth, a cauldron of waves

and black rocks at the base of high cliffs.

While just to the north of Tehidy Country

Park, the village also marks the starting point

of the Mineral Tramway Walks.

For a fun day out, Treasure Park, at Tolgus

Mill,near Portreath, is a unique shopping and

attractions experience; for heritage visit the

Tolgus tin museum and climb aboard the

Tolgus Tin 4-D haunted mine ride; Cornish

Goldsmiths has the largest collection of gold

jewellery in the West Country, but it’s not all

about gold, you will find silver, crystal and

pearls, too. Other surprises to be had here

include pottery painting, the chance to have

your photo taken with the Dolorian car from

the film Back to Future or to make a bear and

bring it to life.

POOL

2 miles NE of Camborne on the A3047

Pool is one of several villages

that have been consumed by the

Camborne and Redruth

conurbation. Very much in the

heart of Cornwall’s mining area,

here can be found Cornish

Mines and Engines, where the

secrets of the county’s dramatic

landscape can be discovered,

and where Trevithick’s mighty

steam engines are explained. At

the Cornwall Industrial

Discovery Centre you can take

in an audiovisual overview of the history of

Cornish mining and the miners, though the

two dramatic beam engines take centre

stage; at Michell’s Engine House, the

winding engine now operated by electricity

was originally worked by steam and raised

ore and miners from 1,600 feet below

surface, Another giant at Taylor’s Shaft,

adjacent to the visitor centre, is one of the

largest (and the last) Cornish engines to be

constructed, originally built in 1892 to pump

water form the nearby Carn Brea mines.

ST DAY

4 miles E of Camborne off the B3298

A Heritage Trail around this village and the

adjoining Lanner and Carharrack takes in the

historic sites which are all that remain from

the time when, in the 19th century, St Day

was known as the richest square mile in the

world due to the number of copper and tin

mines in the area. St Day is, therefore, a

relatively unaltered, if not fossilised,

example of a boom-time market centre.

GWENNAP

4 miles E of Camborne on the A393

The mysterious Gwennap Pit, found just

outside St Day, is a round, grass covered

amphitheatre 114 feet in diameter that is

thought to have been created by the collapse

of a subterranean mine shaft. Used as a cock

pit, this curious theatre is sometimes

referred to as the ‘Methodist Cathedral’, as it

Gwennap Pit

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was here that John Wesley preached on many

occasions from 1743 onwards. At one time

Wesley estimated that the congregation here

exceeded 30,000, noting in his diary, ‘I shall

scarce see a larger congregation till we meet

in the air.’ In 1806, the seating terraces were

cut into the banks and, the following year, a

Whit Monday service was held which has

continued and is now the annual focus for

Methodist pilgrimage from around the world.

REDRUTH

2 miles E of Camborne on the A393

This market town was once, along with much

of the surrounding area, at the centre of the

county’s mining industry and, as such, was a

prosperous town. Some pockets of Victorian,

Georgian and earlier buildings still remain

and, particularly at Churchtown, there are

some attractive old cottages and St Uny’s

Parish Church, mainly Georgian with a 15th

century tower. The lychgate has an unusually

long coffin rest that was built to deal with the

aftermath of mining disasters. Redruth was

also the home of the Scottish inventor William

Murdoch (1754-1839) who was responsible for

such innovations as coal-gas lighting and the

vacuum powered tubes that were once a

common feature in department stores. His

house, the first in Britain to use gas lighting,

can still be seen, marked with a plaque.

The landscape surrounding Redruth is

dominated by the dramatic Carn Brea -

pronounced ‘Bray’- where there are remains

of Iron Age hill forts, Carn Brea Castle and

also a 90 feet monument to the mine owner

Francis Basset, a benevolent Georgian land

and mine owner who did much to improve

the lot of poor labourers. There are

spectacular views from here, which reach to

St Ives in the west and the Lizard Peninsula

in the south.

Another attraction south of Redruth, at

Treskillard, is the Shire Horse & Carriage

Museum. To many, a heavy horse toiling to

pull a plough across a muddy field conjures

up an image of true rural tranquillity

sacrificed to the tyranny of tractors. But

according to one expert, traditional breeds of

the magnificent beasts are on the brink of

extinction. Here you can see the shire horses

at rest, play and work, along with the biggest

collection of horse drawn buses in Britain.

The museum opens from Easter to the end of

September, although the horses can often be

seen every Friday at Portreath Beach where,

weather permitting, they are taken for a run

along the sand.

TUCKINGMILL

1½ miles E of Camborne off the A3047

While most places in this area devoted their

energies to the mining industry, Tuckingmill

was home to a fuse factory (the last fuseworks

closed in the 1960s) that went on to become

world famous for the production of safety

fuses. Much of this complex survives including

the imposing granite fa•ade and the model

terraced workers’ housing. Invented in 1830 by

William Bickford, the fuses were used widely

in Hollywood films and, most notably, as

dynamite fuses in Mission: Impossible.

TROON

1½ mile SE of Camborne off the B3303

Though not as famous as the golfing town of

the same name in Scotland, Troon in Cornwall

should still be visited for the restored King

Edward Mine Museum, on the northern edge

THE MELTINGPOT CAFE

Redruth

Delicious homemadefood, excellent coffeeand a wide selection ofdrinks in its fully licensedbar. The Melting Pot is well worth a visit.


62 THE BREA INN

Higher Brea

In the heart of miningcountry this friendly andtraditional inn offers wellkept real ales, and a wideranging menu catering for vegetarians, vegans withguest accommodation.


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of the village. Here, the

exhibits tell the remarkable

story of how this mine has

survived almost intact for over

100 years. The visitor is taken

on a guided tour of the mill to

see much of the rare equipment

in use, as it would have been in

the early 1900s.

STITHIANS

5½ miles SE of Camborne

off the A393

This quiet rural village is home

to what is claimed to be the

largest agricultural show in

Cornwall, which takes place every July. The

300-acre Stithians Reservoir, just to the west

of the village, is a watersports centre and also

home to a bird sanctuary. The reservoir is

undoubtedly the best area of open water for

bird watching in the county (equalled arguably

by some, only by Drift Reservoir near

Penzance). The Parish Church of St Stithians

is medieval, with a Victorian chancel.

TREVERNA

8 miles SE of Camborne off the A394

To the north of this village is the Argal and

College Water Park, which offers watersports

and coarse fishing. A mile and a half to the

southeast is Penjerrick, a 10-acre garden

created by the Quaker Fox family in the 19th

century. Penjerrick is an example of what

happens when a woodland garden comprising

large, flowering shrubs is allowed to grow

away. Ducking to avoid overhanging boughs,

the terrain is not suitable for everyone, but

there is something quite magical about this

small and verdant corner of Cornwall.

MAWNAN SMITH

10½ miles SE of Camborne off the A39

Just to the west of this pretty village, which

overlooks the River Helford, are the National

Trust gardens of Glendurgan. This valley

garden of great beauty was created in the

1820s and developed over many years by the

Fox family, and includes many exotic trees

and shrubs, and spring displays of magnolias

and camellias. In their season glorious

displays of wild flowers carpet the valley

slopes. The famous Heade Maze, created in

1833 from laurels, and the Giant’s Stride - a

maypole - are two features that are

particularly popular with younger visitors to

this beautiful and secluded garden.

Carwinion, also near Mawnan Smith, is an

18th century manor house set in 12 acres of

Victorian gardens overlooking the Helford

estuary, which today offers traditional bed

and breakfast and Cornish fare.

MAWNAN

11½ miles SE of Camborne off the A39

Set apart from the village on an elevated

position, the granite 15th century St Mawnan

Parish Church, and particularly its tower,

was used as a landmark by sailors for

centuries. Built on a spur at the mouth of the

River Helford, this tower is an excellent

viewing point not only for those wishing to

take in this sweeping coastline but it was

CARWINION HOUSE

Mawnan Smith, nr

Falmouth

An 18th Centurystone manor houseoffering the perfectbed and breakfastretreat.


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also used as a lookout post during times of

war and potential invasion. St Mawnan

himself was an Irish bishop who seems to

have had a particularly bad temper. When St

Maelruain refused to absolve him for some

minor misdemeanor, Mawnan is supposed to

have cursed him, adding that the time will

come when women will get above

themselves, the poor will lack reverence to

their betters, and churches will be poorly

attended.

About a mile northeast of here,

Rosemullion Head juts out into Falmouth

Bay. Strewn with wild flowers, it is reachable

on the cast path that winds around to

Maenporth and beyond to Falmouth.

DURGAN


Durgan is a small shingle beach that was, for

centuries, a fishing village whose daily catch

was transported to Falmouth by donkey. Now

a peaceful backwater, Durgan is also home to

Trebah Garden - often dubbed the ‘garden of

dreams’, and often rated among the top 80

gardens in the world. The Bishops of Exeter

long ago owned the ravine in which the

garden has been created and in the 1830s the

land was bought by the Fox family.

The 25 acres of the garden fall down to a

secluded private beach on Helford River and

here visitors can discover glades of

subtropical shrubs and trees, 100 year old

rhododendrons, waterfalls and ponds of giant

Koi carp. This is a garden for all the family

and children will be enthralled by the

Gunnera Passage, a tunnel of giant rhubarb

16 feet high, jungle walks and an exciting

paraglide. The purpose-built visitor and

education centre includes exhibition space, a

lecture theatre, cafe and gift shop.

It also lies at the southern end of

Glendurgan Gardens (see also Mawnan

Smith), making it possible to have a dual-

purpose visit to the area.

HELFORD PASSAGE


Situated on the opposite bank of the estuary

from Helford, this hamlet is a popular

mooring point, with sailing and motor-boats

for hire, and also a sand and shingle beach.

During the summer a ferry runs from here

across the estuary, as it has since the Middle

Ages; those who take the ferry can explore

the gardens at Trebah (see also Durgan) and

Glendurgan (see also Mawnan Smith), which

are just five-minutes apart, and full of sub-

tropical plants.

HELSTON

The town stands on the east bank of the

River Cober, it’s very different nowadays from

its former appearance when, as Hellaz, it was

a busy port that exported tin and copper.

That was before the river was cut off from

the sea by a shingle bar, Loe Bar, in the 13th

century. The shingle bar turned what was

once a small tidal creek into

Cornwall’s largest lake, the Loe

Pool, a mile south of the town.

Despite losing its port, Helston

remained an important centre

as a Stannary town, as recalled

in the name of its thoroughfare

Coinagehall Street.

Helston’s long and colourful

history has left it with a legacy

of interesting Georgian, Regency

and Victorian buildings which all

help to give it a quaint and

genteel air. Walking up

Coinagehall Street, you’ll passGrylls Monument, Helston

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the Blue Anchor Inn, a thatched

building, originally a monks’

rest house, which became a

tavern in the 15th century.

Further up, you’ll find one of

the oldest buildings in Helston,

Angel House, which was the

former town house of the

renowned Godolphin family. In

the 1750s, the Earl of Godolphin

rebuilt St Michael’s Parish

Church in Georgian style, and,

in the churchyard of this

unusual granite structure, lies a

memorial to Henry Trengrouse,

the Helston man responsible for

inventing the rocket propelled safety line

which saved so many lives around the British

coast. Trengrouse devoted himself to its

development after the frigate Anson ran

aground on nearby Loe Bar in 1807 and 100

people lost their lives unnecessarily. He was

not much feted in Britain, but was presented

with a diamond ring by the Tsar of Russia; the

inventor was later forced by penury to pawn

the ring and he died penniless in 1854.

On Meaneage Street, is the Neoclassical

Guildhall, itself the starting point for

internationally famous Festival of the Furry,

or Flora Dance. The origins of the name are

unclear but it could have been derived from

the Middle English word ‘ferrie’ which

suggests a Christian festival or from the

Celtic ‘feur’, which means holiday or fair. As

it is held in May, this would suggest that the

festival has connections with ancient pagan

spring celebrations. There are various stories

and legends surrounding the Furry Dance and

one tells how St Michael intercepted the

Devil, flying across Cornwall carrying a large

stone to block the gates of Hell. During the

ensuing encounter, the Devil dropped the

boulder and the place where it fell became

known as Hell’s Stone, or Helston. The

people of Helston took to the streets dancing

to celebrate St Michael’s victory and this is

said to be the original Furry Dance, which

takes place on the nearest Saturday to St

Michael’s Day (8 May). The Helston Town

Band leads dances throughout the day, and in

the principal dance the participants wear top

hats, tails and dress gowns. Not only do they

dance through the streets, they also weave in

and out of houses and shops.

You can learn more about the festival and

other aspects of the town’s history at the

splendid Helston Folk Museum. The cannon

that guards its entrance was taken from the

aforementioned Anson, which was wrecked on

the Loe Bar in 1807 with much loss of life. The

exhibitions here include trades associated with

Helston such as fishing, agriculture and

mining, along with exhibits depicting domestic

life. Another of the town’s famous sons is also

rememberd here, Bob Fitzsimmons (1863-

1917), the first boxer to hold the world

middleweight, light heavyweight and

heavyweight championship titles.

As you head out of Helston, past the

Coronation Park & Boating Lake, towards the

fishing village of Porthleven, you’ll come to

the parkland of the Penrose Estate, which

offers some beautiful woodland walks and is

owned by the National Trust. Forming part of

the estate, Loe Pool is a haven for sea birds as

well as waterfowl. A Cornish folk tale links the

Pool with the Arthurian legend of the Lady of

the Lake: like Bodmin Moor’s Dozmary Pool, a

hand is said to have risen from the depths of

the water to catch the dying King Arthur’s

sword. Another local story connects Loe Bar

with the legendary rogue, Jan Tregeagle, who

was set the task of weaving a rope from its

sand as a punishment.

Two miles northwest of the town is

Trevarno Estate and Gardens, a beautiful

Flora Dance, Helston

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and rare estate that has a long history that

stretches back to 1246 when Randolphus de

Trevarno first gave the land its name. Over

the centuries the 70 acres of gardens and

grounds have been developed and extended,

and in 1995 it was put up for sale for the

first time in 120 years in 33 lots. However,

the estate was saved, and today, Trevarno

has become known as one of the finest

gardens in the county and one that displays a

great gardening tradition. From walled

gardens, a sunken Italian garden and

Victorian and Georgian gardens to mature

woodlands, there are many different styles to

be discovered here along with a yew tunnel,

bluebell valley, and a Victorian boathouse

and an extensive collection of rare trees and

shrubs. The estate’s National Museum of

Gardening, housed in a modern purpose-

designed building, complements the grounds

and highlights the ingenuity of gardeners

down the ages by the range of gardening

implements, antiques, memorabilia and

ephemera on display. Unfortunately, at the

time of writing the estate is again up for sale

and, although it will be open for the 2011

season, its future is unsure.

To the east of the town lies another

interesting attraction that will keep all the

family amused for hours –Flambards, which

started life as an ‘aeropark’ in 1976. Today,

the Flambards Experience encompasses a

theme park, which boasts the best thrill rides

in Cornwall with its famous Hornet

Rollercoaster, Canon River Log Flume and

amazing Extreme Force. And for those after a

more sedate experience there is the Victorian

Village and Britain in the Blitz – ‘a visit to

Flambards is like taking a step back in time’.

Close to Flambards is the Royal Navy’s land

and sea rescue headquarters at Culdrose, one

of the largest and busiest helicopter bases in

Europe. Aircraft from here have been

responsible for a great many successful search

and rescue operations since the base was

commissioned in 1947 as HMS Seahawk. The

public are only allowed entry into Culdrose on

Air Day, which is held each year in the

summer, this is the only time that visitors get

to experience the sights, sounds and smells of

a working military Naval Air Station.

AROUND HELSTON

WENDRON

2 miles N of Helston on the B3297

Close to this bleak village is one of the many

mines that have been worked in this area

since the 15th century. Now reopened as the

Poldark Mine Heritage Complex, it is by far

the best underground experience in the

southwest. Poldark Mine hosts a variety of

attractions from the mine itself to a museum,

amusements and craft workshops. The

complex is laid out with award-winning

gardens and both young and old will find

there is plenty here to keep them amused.

St Wendron’s Parish Church was built in

approximately 1150, though it was heavily

restored in Victorian times. The lychgate,

which has a room above, dates from the 17th

century. Nothing is known about the patron

saint of the local church that gave her name

to the parish.

GWEEK

3 miles E of Helston off the A394

Situated at the westernmost branch of the

River Helford, Gweek was once an important

TREVARNO ESTATE AND GARDENS

Trevarno, nr Helston

A magnificent collection ofplants are set within formal,informal and woodland areas.On-going restoration projectsand a museum add to aninteresting day out.


65 THE GWEEK INN

Helston

Just minutes from theseal sanctuary thisfamily friendly creekside inn offers delicioushome cooking ataffordable prices.


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commercial port that grew up after nearby

Helston harbour became silted in the 13th

century. The same fate befell Gweek many

years later and today it is a picturesque

village that has replaced its cargo vessels

with small pleasure craft. However, the

village has maintained links with its

maritime past and the rejuvenated harbour

now plays host to such delights as craft

shops and small boatyards.

Nestled in a tranquil setting, outside the

village, the National Seal Sanctuary is a

rehabilitation and release centre for the

increasing number of injured seals being

rescued from around Cornwall and beyond.

Low key and functional, it provides an

informative and fascinating insight into the

lives of seals and the measures taken to care

for them. There’s plenty of entertainment in

watching the seals at play.

CONSTANTINE

4 miles E of Helston off the A394

St Constantine Parish Church dates mainly

from the 15th century, apart from the

chancel, which is Victorian. St Constantine

was the son of King Patrenus of Cornwall who

had a misspent youth until he turned to

Christianity. Unreliable tradition, says he is

the nephew of the famous King Arthur, to

whom the latter bequeathed his crown when

he was mortally wounded. Nonetheless, he

travelled north and evangelised the Scots,

founding a monastery in Govan, now part of

Glasgow, on his travels. He became

Scotland’s first martyr after AD598, when

pirates cut off his right arm and let him

bleed to death.

LIZARD PENINSULA

Area SE of Helston on the A3083

For a glimpse of Cornwall’s stormier side, the

cliffs, rugged coves and open heaths of the

Lizard Peninsula – from the Celtic lys ardh, or

‘high point’ – are hard to beat. The Lizard

Peninsula is unique, standing alone in a very

real sense, and designated as an Area of

Outstanding Natural Beauty. Much of the

coastline falls under the stewardship of the

National Trust and the South West Coast Path

winds around the peninsula providing beautiful

scenery for walkers of all ages and ability.

Historically a particularly hazardous

stretch of coastline, the Lizard Peninsula has

been the site of many maritime disasters and

was also known as the ‘Graveyard of Ships’.

It forms a natural obstacle to entry and exit

of Falmouth and its naturally deep estuary. In

1721 the Royal Anne Galley, an oared frigate,

was wrecked at Lizard Point. Of a crew of

185 only 3 survived; lost was Lord Belhaven

who was en voyage to take up the

Governorship of Barbados.

The biggest rescue in the RNLI’s 185-year

history took place near Lizard Point, in 1907

when the ocean liner, SS Suevic, hit the

Maenheere Reef - a belt of half-

submerged rocks a mile off the

Lizard. RNLI lifeboat volunteers

from The Lizard, Cadgwith,

Coverack and Porthleven rowed

out, in strong gale and dense

fog, repeatedly for 16 hours and

rescued 456 passengers.

Incredibly, not a single life was

lost. Six silver RNLI medals were

later awarded, two to Suevic

crew-members.

The Lizard is also known for

its unique Serpentine rock, a

green mineral that became

fashionable in Victorian times

when ornaments were, and stillThe Lizard Lifeboat Station

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are, made as souvenirs and objets d’art.

Several shops near Lizard Point sell souvenirs

made from it, though at one time it was

mined on a commercial scale.

MAWGAN

3½ miles E of Helston off the B3293

The village is more properly called Mawgan-

in-Meneage, as this part of the county, lying

just north of The Lizard, is called Meneage,

meaning ‘monklands’. Trelowarren House, in

the village, is an impressive part-Tudor

country mansion that has been the home of

the Vyvyan family since 1427 and is still their

home today. The mainly 16th century house,

where the highlights are the exquisite

plasterwork and medieval stained glass of the

Rococo Chapel, is not open to the public but

the grounds are open from February until the

end of September. The house sits in 1,000

acres of woodland and there are several

earthworks on the estate that date to the

Iron Age. There is also a local craft centre

and shop. One lovely waymarked walk

through the estate leads to the Halliggye

Fogou – ‘Fogou’ is a Cornish word meaning

cave – a series of strange Neolithic

underground chambers the use of which is

unknown. Today they are home to bats and

spiders and are well worth a visit due to the

sheer mystery.

St Mawgan Parish Church is 15th

century, but was sympathetically restored in

Victorian times.

HELFORD

6½ miles E of Helston off the B3293

At the northeastern side of the Lizard

Peninsular, the Helford River reveals a range

of different faces along its length, from

sheltered muddy creeks to its rocky, open

mouth, all of which repay exploration on foot

or by boat. On its south side, Frenchman’s

Creek, one of a splay of inlets running off

the river, was the inspiration for Daphne du

Maurier’s novel of the same name, and her

evocation of it still holds true: ‘still and

soundless, surrounded by the trees, hidden

from the eyes of men’.

Hidden in yet another side creek is

Helford village, this picture postcard village

makes a good start for riverside walks and,

from April until the end of September, is

linked to Helford Passage by a ferry across

the river. The series of deep tidal creeks in

the area are rumoured to be the home of

Morgawr, the legendary ‘Sea Giant’. The first

recorded sighting of this sea serpent was in

1926 and, ever since there have been

numerous other sightings of this ‘hideous,

hump-backed creature with stumpy horns’. It

is said to look like the Loch Ness Monster,

and indeed some video footage recorded in

1999 by someone who formerly worked for

the Natural History Museum reveals a

creature that looks remarkably like Nessie.

Although, until further proof comes to light,

the only limits to Morgawr’s true identity are

the limits of your imagination.

ST ANTHONY

8 miles E of Helston off the B3293

This small and remote hamlet,

on the northern bank of the

Gillan Creek, is little more than

a cluster of old cottages and a

church. Said to have been

founded by shipwrecked Norman

sailors grateful that they had

reached dry land, the Church of

St Anthony does, in some ways,

verify this claim as it is built of

a stone that is not found in

Cornwall but in Normandy.Fallen Tree, Trenchman’s Creek

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A path from the church leads to Dennis

Head – Dennis is a corruption of the Cornish

‘dinas’, meaning a fort, so a Celtic fort or

settlement may have stood here at one time

– from which there are views across Falmouth

Bay to St Anthony Head. The hamlet has its

own small beach of sand and shingle that is

also used by sailing boats and sailboarders. St

Anthony’s Parish Church is mainly 15th

century, though a Norman church preceded it.

According to legend, it was built by Normans

who had been blown off course crossing over

from France and landed up in the local creek.

ST KEVERNE

9 miles SE of Helston on the B3293

This pleasant inland village, set around a

handsome square, is something of a focal

point for this part of the Lizard Peninsula as

it has all the main shops and facilities.

Because of St Keverne’s elevated position, on

a high plateau, many sailors used the spire of

St Keverne’s Parish Church as a landmark to

try and avoid The Manacles, but it couldn’t

always guarantee their safety. The Manacles,

just off the Lizard, with its submerged rocks

has caught out even the most salty of sea

dog. The name comes from the Cornish

‘maen eglos’, meaning ‘church rocks’. In the

churchyard are some 400 graves of those who

have fallen victim to the dangerous reef and,

as well as a stone marking the graves of

nearly 200 emigrants who drowned in 1855 on

their way to Canada in The John, there is a

large granite cross marking the mass grave of

the 106 passengers and crew who lost their

lives when The Mohegan foundered on the

rocks in 1898. The Manacles are now very

popular with divers due to the various

shipwrecks. Porthkerris Cove, near St

Keverne, is a dive site with easy access to

the Manacles and there is a first class diving

centre in the cove, which offers a full range

of services including: air, nitrox, a dive shop,

charter boats and a cafe.

The church, once voted the ‘Best Church

to Visit’ in Britain, dates mainly from the

15th century and earlier, though the spire

was rebuilt in 1770 after being struck by

lightning. It is thought that a church of some

kind has stood here since about AD600, when

Celtic monks settled in the area.

Two Cornish rebellions, one in 1497 the

other in 1547, have their roots in St

Keverne. A statue commemorates the 500th

anniversary of the Cornish Rebellion of 1497

and, back in the church, is a plaque in

memory of the executed rebel leaders. At

the head of the rebellion was Michael

Joseph, the village blacksmith, protesting

against the punitive taxes levied by Henry

VII. The uprising was routed on its march to

London and Joseph and the other

protagonists were subsequently,hanged,

drawn and quartered.

Less than a mile south of St Keverne,

Roskilly’s Ice Cream and Organic Farm

produces some of Cornwall’s best ice creams,

available in 50-odd flavours. There is plenty

to see and do here from watching daily

milking to close-up encounters with cows,

calves, donkeys, hens and ducks, along with

learning about the farm’s history.

PORTHALLOW

10 miles SE of Helston off the B3293

Known locally as ‘Pralla’, this small fishing

village was once renowned for its pilchards,

and one of the biggest events of the year is

the Fishing Festival, usually held in June or

July. The biggest is the Beach Party on the

third Wednesday in August, with gig racing,

live music, a barbecue, bonfire and

fireworks.

There are some excellent walks around

Porthallow, giving wonderful views out

across Falmouth bay. At Nare Point, north of

the village, is an abandoned observation

point for a torpedo range that operated here

until 1994.

THE FIVE PILCHARDS INN

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COVERACK

10 miles SE of Helston on the B3294

The name Coverack itself means ‘hidden

cove’. This untamed fishing village has been

around since at least AD995, and the small

harbour wall was built in 1724. There is a

rich and fascinating history attached to this

quaint and peaceful village, once the haunt

of smugglers; Coverack was, for many years,

home to an RNLI station because of its

proximity to The Manacles. At many points in

its existence, ocean liners and ships of every

shape and size have run aground on the sharp

rocks that make up the cliffs around the

town. The Coverack lifeboat participated in

the biggest rescue in the RNLI’s history,

rescuing hundreds of men, women and

children from the SS Suevic. Coverack has a

large crescent shaped beach in the sheltered

bay that is ideal for swimming and

windsurfing.

GOONHILLY DOWNS

5½ miles SE of Helston off the B3293

Just outside Goonhilly Downs, there’s a

standing stone called a Menhir, which

has been there for more than 5,000

years. It is thought to have been

erected to aid communication with the

heavenly gods. Goonhilly was once the

world’s largest earth station with over

60 dishes pointing into space and was

responsible for sending and receiving

millions of telephone calls, TV pictures,

faxes and internet connections around

the globe; it was also the first earth

station to receive ‘live’ TV images from

America and broadcast Live Aid back in

1985, which became the most watched

TV show in history. Some of these

iconic satellite dishes have been

removed, and the site has now been set

aside to be redeveloped for use at the

forefront of world-leading radio

astronomy projects and space network

communications. There are also plans

to open a new Visitors Centre as an

exciting space-themed attraction.

POLTESCO

8½ miles SE of Helston off the A3083

Just a few minutes walk from this pretty

National Trust owned village lies Carleon

Cove, which is now a deserted rocky cove

with a few ruined remains of what was once

a busy pilchard fishery and cellar.

CADGWITH

9 miles SE of Helston off the A3083

This minuscule and very picturesque fishing

village, with its cluster of pastel coloured

Coverack Harbour

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thatched cottages and two shingle

beaches is, perhaps everyone’s idea

of the typical Cornish village.

However, in the 19th century this

was a busy pilchard fishing centre

and it is recorded that in 1904 the

fleet from Cadgwith landed a record

1,798,000 pilchards over just four

days. Lobster and crab fishing is still

carried on, albeit on a small scale,

and the boats can still be seen drawn

up onto the beach.

Separating the main cove here

from Little Cove is The Todden, a

grass covered mushroom of land. A

little further south along the coast path is

the Devil’s Frying Pan, a collapsed sea cave

that is filled with water at high tide. There is

some good diving to be had with several

well-known ship wrecks located nearby.

LIZARD

10 miles SE of Helston on the A3083

The most southerly village in mainland

Britain, and the only one south of the 50th

parallel, Lizard is a place of craft shops,

cafes and art galleries all clustered around

the village green. Following a visit to

Cornwall by Queen Victoria in the 19th

century, when she ordered many items made

from Serpentine stone for her new house on

the Isle of Wight, Osborne, this richly

coloured green stone has been popular and

Lizard is a centre for its polishing and

fashioning into ornaments.

A staple diet for Cornish dwellers for

centuries, Ann Muller has been making

pasties for over 20 years from her little shop

in the Lizard. Following in her mum’s

footsteps, Ann swears by the core

ingredients: sliced onion, potato, turnip and

chopped beef skirt wrapped in a firm but

light pastry case with crimped ends to keep it

all together. The pasty has connections with

the mining industry, when miners relied on

the fact that a pasty stays warm for over an

hour, but Ann reckons it’s a myth that the

crimped edge was created as a disposable

handle for miners.

In past centuries the Lizard was at the

centre of Cornwall’s smuggling industry, and

the area is crammed with tales of Cornish

‘free-traders’ sneaking barrels of liquor and

contraband goods under the noses of

government Preventive boats. Some

smugglers even became local legends – the

most notorious was John Carter, the so-called

King of Prussia, after whom Prussia Cove near

Rosudgeon is named.

To the south of the village lies Lizard

Point, whose three sides of high cliffs are

lashed by the waves whatever the season.

Here, stands the Lizard Lighthouse. There

has been a form of lighthouse on Lizard Point

since the early 17th century. The present

twin-towered lighthouse, which provides a

welcoming landfall light to vessels crossing

the Atlantic Ocean, was built in 1751 despite

protests from the locals fearing that they

would lose a regular source of income from

looting ships wrecked around the point.

Another feature are the twin horns of the fog

horn, which still boom out over the waters

once every 30 seconds when the weather is

bad. In 2008 a Lottery heritage fund was

granted to modernise and rebuild the Lizard

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The Lizard Wireless Station

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Lighthouse Heritage Centre.

The improved facility opened

in spring 2009 and offers

visitors information about the

structural, technical and

social history of Lizard

Lighthouse and the associated

southwestern offshore Rock

Lighthouses, using interactive

and audio-visual displays.

The Lizard also played an

important role in the history

of modern communications. At

nearby Bass Point, The Lizard

Wireless Station is the oldest

surviving wireless station in

the world, built by Marconi in 1900/1.

KYNANCE COVE

9 miles S of Helston off the A3083

A famed beauty spot, now owned by the

National Trust, Kynance Cove has a

marvellous sandy beach and dramatic

offshore rock formations. The name

‘Kynance’ comes from the Cornish word

‘kynans’, meaning a deep ravine, and the

place has been occupied since at least the

Bronze Age. This was a favourite destination

with wealthy Victorians, including Tennyson,

and after a visit here by Prince Albert and his

children in 1846, one of the giant rocks on

the beach became known as Albert Rock.

Out to sea is Asparagus Island, where, at

one time, wild asparagus grew. The cove is

also the site of the largest outcrop of

serpentine rock, the rock unique to the

Lizard that is dark, mottled and veined with

green, red and white. The caves to the west

of the cove can be explored around low tide

and these include the Devil’s Bellows, a

cave that, at high tide, becomes a dramatic

blowhole. On Rill Point is an old coastguard

lookout post, from where in 1588 watchers

spotted the Spanish Armada several miles

offshore. The fleet of 130 galleons

announced its imminent arrival with a mass

broadside fire, but, alerted by beacons and

runners, the English fleet under Sir Francis

Drake was waiting.

MULLION COVE

6 miles S of Helston on the B3296

The inland village of Mullion is the largest

settlement on the Lizard Peninsula and an

ideal base from which to explore this

remarkable part of the county. Here, a

triangle of quiet roads encloses the 15th

century St Mallenus Parish Church,

dedicated to the French saint Malo (or

Mellane of Rennes). The short tower is partly

constructed of serpentine rock, and the

interior has some interestingly carved bench

ends - one of them depicts Jonah in the belly

of the whale. Look out, too, for the ‘dog

door’ in the south door that was used by

sheepdogs who were allowed to attend

church with their masters but who were

made to leave if they became unruly.

Inland are the remains of the Wheal Unity

copper mine, which closed in 1919. A large

boulder containing copper was dug out of the

mine and given to the Natural History

Museum in London.

West of the village of Mullion Cove, there

Kynance Cove

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are a few ancient buildings and thick walls of

serpentine that overlook the little harbour of

Mullion Cove – also known as Porthmellion –

where a handful of fishing boats bob about

on the water. The cove had a lifeboat station

from 1867 to 1909, and with good reason: in

the six years up to 1873 there were nine

wrecks under Mullion cliffs along a mile-and-

a-half stretch of coastline. Much of the land

surrounding this secluded cove of white sand,

as well as the harbour and offshore Mullion

Island, is owned by the National Trust and the

views from here extend westwards, across

Mount’s Bay, to Penzance and Newlyn. The

island is home to colonies of sea birds,

including fulmars, guillemots and kittiwakes.

POLDHU POINT


Wireless station history fans will certainly be

familiar with the importance of the Lizard.

The Marconi Monument, a small granite

obelisk, overlooks the Atlantic Ocean on the

site that on December 12, 1901, played host

to the transmission that paved the way for

long-distance communication. Guglielmo

Marconi himself stayed in Poldhu in 1900, and

built one of the largest wireless stations in

the world, the pylons and aerials of which

survived until 1937. His Morse signal, the

letter ‘s’ repeated three times, was received

in St John’s, Newfoundland, quelling the

doubts of the many who said that radio

waves could not bend round the earth’s

curvature. On the site of his station stands

the Marconi Centre, a purpose-built

exhibition centre and HQ of the Poldhu

Amateur Radio Club.

GUNWALLOE


Gunwalloe is a tiny fishing hamlet with a

charming cove, and 76 wrecks littered along

its coast between 1526 and 1931. This place

is one of the unsung delights of Cornwall, and

though not well known by visitors, is a

favourite Sunday haunt for locals out

walking, even on a winter’s day. Local stories

of smuggling, looted wrecks and buried

treasure abound. In 1526 a treasure ship

belonging to the King of Portugal sank off

Church Cove. Many attempts were made to

recover the booty on board, but no one ever

succeeded. In 1785 a ship carrying a

consignment of gold coins ran aground,

making this place still popular with treasure

hunters who comb the sands with metal

detectors hoping to unearth more coins from

the two ships.

The 15th century St Winwaloe’s Parish

Church is dedicated to the Breton missionary

St Winwaloe, and lies protected in the sand

dunes behind the rounded cliffs of Castle

Mound, with the sea pounding away outside

(the church is often called the Church of the

Storms). Its bell tower was, unusually, built

separately right into the rock.

PORTHLEVEN

2 miles SW of Helston on the B3304

This pleasant fishing town, the most

southerly port in mainland Britain, first came

into prominence in 1811, when work began

on the construction of a harbour in the sweep

of Mounts Bay. This was to meet the demand

for coal and supplies for the mines and to

provide a refuge for the growing fishing fleet,

which reached 100 boats at one time. Trade

steadily increased, so from the 1850s a boat-

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building industry developed, and up until the

1970s clippers, schooners, trawlers and

yachts were launched from the slipway. The

fishing industry also expanded rapidly, and on

a single day in 1834 2,000 54-gallon barrels

of pilchards were landed.

Boats still fish from the harbour, mainly

now for crab, lobster and crayfish. A number

of the small town’s old industrial premises

have been converted into handsome craft

galleries, restaurants and shops and the

charming old harbour is overlooked by an

assortment of attractive residential terraces

and fishermen’s cottages. One street is

named after Guy Gibson, wartime commander

of 617 Squadron, the Dam Busters. He visited

the town on holiday with his parents.

Near Porthleven is the Penrose Estate,

owned by the National Trust. It is also

possible to walk along the beach to Loe Bar,

when the tide is out, although care must be

taken not to get stranded by the fast

incoming tides.

SITHNEY

2 miles W of Helston off the A394

This small village, no more than St Sidinius

Parish Church (consecrated in 1497 and

having a 67-feet tower) and a few cottages,

has one unique feature - the Sithney

Treacle Mine. This miniature folly, sited in

the small patch of village green, raises many

a smile when people passing through the

village see it.

BREAGE


Pronounced to rhyme with

‘Haig’, Breage is renowned

above all for the 15th century

wall paintings in its St Breaca

Parish Church. The building too

dates from the same time and

this remarkable set of murals,

which feature such subjects as

St Christopher and Christ

blessing the trades, lay beneath

a layer of whitewash until the

1890s. They are thought to be

the work of monks who

travelled the country decorating churches in

this way as a form of religious education.

Somehow they have survived being painted

over countless times since the Reformation.

In the north aisle there is a rare Roman

milestone from the 3rd century AD that

provides evidence that the Roman occupiers

extracted tin here for their own use.

The whole area surrounding the village

became one of the richest mining districts in

Cornwall. Tregonning Hill, nearby, was where

William Cookworthy discovered china clay in

the mid-1740s.

PRAA SANDS


At first glance, Praa Sands would seem to be

a collection of 20th century buildings close to

the sea, however there is more to the

village. Pengersick Castle dates back to the

Bronze Age and is to be found a quarter of a

mile from the modern centre of the village.

Now owned by the Pengersick Historic and

Education Trust, the castle is undergoing a

major programme of renovation and is

expected to open again to the public in 2012.

Two headlands and high dunes enclose the

mile-long crescent of sand that have helped

to build Praa Sands’ reputation as one of the

finest family beaches in Cornwall. An ideal

place for bathing and surfing, the beach here

never gets too crowded and the village

provides a variety of accommodation that is

suitable for a small family resort.

Porthleven Harbour

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GERMOE


This small rural village is home to St

Germoe’s Parish Church. St Germoe, or St

Germochus, was an Irish king and missionary

who was the brother of St Breaca. Dating from

the 12th century, the present church contains

a remarkable Celtic font that is carved with a

mysterious human head. In the porch are

strange carvings of long-tailed monkeys, which

were said to ward off evil. Built into the

churchyard wall is St Germoe’s Chair, a

curious covered seat. Some believe that St

Germoe lies buried beneath it; however, the

chair has been dated to Norman times.

ROSUDGEON

7 miles W of Helston on the A394

A narrow, winding lane from the village

leads to Prussia Cove (originally Portleah), a

clifftop settlement that was named after a

notorious 18th century smuggler, John

Carter, who styled himself on Frederick the

Great of Prussia. One story surrounding this

unsavoury man tells how he used a cannon

mounted on the cliffs to scare off revenue

officers. In 1825 the building of a

Coastguard Station here finally put an end

to smuggling in Prussia Cove. Although John

Carter’s cottage was demolished in 1906,

the cove still holds the romance of its

notorious connections with wrecking and

smuggling. The smugglers’ wheel tracks can

still be seen in the steep stone slipway

leading up from the water’s edge.

ST IVES

With broad sand beaches, a picturesque

harbour and the modern architecture of the

Tate, St Ives is in an altogether different

category from the granite villages and jagged

cliffs that characterise most of west

Cornwall. St Ives’ dual fishing and artistic

legacies are continued today in the numerous

galleries, jammed into its narrow alleys, and

in the daily landing of fishing catches on

Smeaton’s Pier.

The original settlement of St Ives took its

name from the 6th century missionary, St Ia,

who is said to have landed here having sailed

from Ireland on an ivy leaf. Her Feast Day is

celebrated every year with the Hurling the

Silver Ball, which should be held on the first

Monday of February. It is a rugby-style game,

traditionally played between local

‘Upalongers and Downalongers’. The mayor

throws the ball from the church wall in the

middle of the morning; it is then thrown from

person to person, through the streets and

down to the beach, until noon when the

person holding it receives a small prize.

The 15th century St Ia’s Parish Church,

near the harbour, bears her name, along with

those of the two fishermen Apostles St Peter

and St Andrew. The 80-feet tower is built of

granite brought by sea from quarries at

Zennor, a few miles south. Nearby on St Ives

Head, stands another ecclesiastical building,

the mariners’ Chapel of St Nicholas and

there are inspiring views across St Ives Bay.

Known locally as The Island, St Ives Head

was also the spot from where a lookout

would scan the sea looking for shoals of

pilchards. One of the most important pilchard

fishing centres in Cornwall, until the industry

declined in the early 20th century, St Ives

holds a record dating back to 1868 for the

greatest number of fish caught in a single

abode b&b

St Ives

A marvellous bed andbreakfast withwelcoming hosts,comfortable beds and ahearty breakfast offering a fantastic way to startthe day.


74

CAFÉ MUNDO BAR

St Ives

Friendly relaxedatmosphere, delicioushome made food, dailyspecials and ORIGINcoffee served by trainedBaristas.


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seine net. On catch days, the streets of St

Ives would reek of the smell of pilchard oil;

the diarist Francis Kilvert was told by the

local vicar that the smell was sometimes so

great as to stop the church clock! A local

specialty, called Hevva Cake but now usually

called Heavy Cake, is a sweet loaf decorated

with a criss-cross pattern resembling a fishing

net (so called because the Cornish word for a

shoal of fish is ‘hevva’), which was

traditionally made for the seiners on their

return from fishing.

As well as providing shelter for the

fishing fleet, St Ives’ harbour was developed

for exporting locally mined ores and

minerals, and the sturdy main pier was built

by John Smeaton, the 18th century marine

architect who was responsible for designing

the famous Eddystone Lighthouse. The

town’s two industries led to the labyrinth of

narrow streets and alleyways to become

divided into two communities: Downalong,

where the fishing families lived, and

Upalong, a district of mining families. In

fact, St Ives Museum is housed in a building

belonging to an old mine and here can be

seen a wide range of artefacts that chronicle

the natural, industrial and maritime history

of the area.

There is also a display dedicated to the

exploits of one of the town’s most colourful

people, John Knill. Mayor of the town in

1767 and a customs officer by profession, it

was widely rumoured that Knill was an

energetic smuggler himself and that the tall

monument he built to the south of the town,

now known as the Knill Steeple, supposedly

as his mausoleum, served to guide ships

carrying contraband safely to the shore.

Though buried in London, Knill left a

bequest to the town so that every five

years, on July 25, they could hold a

ceremony in his honour; a procession, led by

a fiddler, two widows and ten young ladies

or children from fishing and mining families,

dances its way from the town centre to his

monument to sing the 100th Psalm. The first

such ceremony took place in 1801, and John

himself took part as he didn’t die until

1811. The 40 acres of open space around the

monument is Steeple Woodland Nature

Reserve, where visitors can explore the

woods and stroll over the heathland.

As both the fishing and mining industries

declined in the late 19th century, St Ives

developed as an artists’ colony. Since the

1880s, the town has attracted many diverse

painters, brought here by the breathtaking

scenery and special quality of the light, and

they have included such talents as Ben

Nicholson, Barbara Hepworth, Naum Gabo

BLUE HAYES PRIVATE HOTEL

St Ives

With 5 real ales servedand a fantastic beerfestival annually, thisfree house is one toenjoy all year round.


76ANCHORAGE B&B

St Ives

Find comfort and characterin this Grade II listed B&B,delightfully situated in theheart of the old artists andfishermen’s quarter.


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Tate St Ives

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and the potter Bernard Leach. Many of the

old pilchard cellars and sail lofts were

converted into workshops, studios and

galleries.

Whatever your knowledge of art, the

galleries in St Ives will evoke your senses.

The best-known gallery is the Tate St Ives,

which is worth a visit for its architecture and

spectacular beachfront location alone. The

seaside sounds are a constant presence inside

the airy white building, creating a lively

soundtrack to the paintings, sculptures and

ceramics, most of which date from the period

1925 to 1975, and many inspired by St Ives

itself. The Tate gallery has succeeded in a

way that could not have been foreseen; with

the opening of the national maritime museum

in Falmouth and before that the Eden

Project, St Ives is now part of what has

become known as the golden triangle of top

attractions in Cornwall.

Allied to Tate St Ives is the Barbara

Hepworth Museum and Sculpture Garden at

Trewyn Studio on Barnoon Hill. One of the

foremost nonfigurative sculptors of her time,

Hepworth lived and worked here until her

death, in a fire, in 1975. The Sculpture

Garden is a haven of peace, and a visit here

is most rewarding, particularly on busy days

in the town.

Most of St Ives’ private galleries are

small, and their contents can usually be

glimpsed from outside, but most welcome

visitors. The St Ives Society of Artists Gallery

is a bigger affair, occupying the Old Mariners’

Church – as it has done since 1945. The

Society’s exhibition programmes feature work

chosen by guest curators, and invited

exhibitions that are a diverse mix of

contemporary visual art. St Ives also holds a

major arts and music festival each

September, which runs over two weeks and

has an eclectic brief, featuring a range of

music, poetry and theatre.

Located at Higher Stennack on the upper

outskirts of St Ives, Leach Pottery is an

interesting heritage museum founded in 1920

by Bernard Leach and Shoji Hamada. The

pottery is considered to be the birthplace of

British studio pottery where potters, students

and apprentices have come to train from

across the world. A new museum has been

created on site as a living tribute to Bernard

Leach, who played a crucial pioneering role

in creating an identity for artist potters

across the world. The purpose-built studio

houses exhibition, gallery space and

workshop space.

However, it is not only artists who have

been inspired by the beauty of St Ives and

the surrounding area. Virginia Woolf, who

spent every summer here to the age of, 12

described St Ives as ‘a windy, noisy, fishy,

vociferous, narrow-streeted town; the colour

of a mussel or a limpet; like a bunch of rough

shell fish clustered on a grey wall

altogether.’ Said to be the happiest time of

her life, she recaptures the mood of those

days in her novel To the Lighthouse.

The beaches of St Ives are its crowning

glories. Magnificent Porthmeor Beach on the

town’s western edge is famous for powerful

surf, yet is ideal for non-surfers of all ages.

The more sheltered Porthminster Beach on

the town’s eastern edge has perfect

conditions for family groups.Barbara Hepworth Sculpture Garden

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AROUND ST IVES

CARBIS BAY

1 mile SE of St Ives off the A3074

The sheltered beach here is ideal for families

as it is safe for children and there are various

watersports available. Easy to reach on foot

from St Ives, there is a footpath along the

cliffs; at low tide the more adventurous may

like to walk along the exposed sands to

Lelant. In the 19th century, the famous

Providence copper and tin mines employed

hundreds of men, women and children.

LELANT

2½ miles SE of St Ives on the A3074

A thriving seaport in the Middle Ages, until

the silting up of the Hayle estuary caused

traffic through here to divert to St Ives,

Lelant is now a popular holiday village with a

golf course and a scenic rail link to St Ives.

Though little remains from the heyday of the

port here, St Uny’s Parish Church, which

overlooks the golf course, dates from the

15th century and it is dedicated to a Celtic

saint said to be the brother of St Ia. Its

graveyard contains some fine examples of

granite Cornish crosses and from here walkers

start the 13-mile trek to St Michael’s Mount

in Mount’s Bay, known as the St Michael’s

Way. This ancient pilgrimage route follows

the coast path to Carbis Bay, before cutting

across land and ending at Marazion on the

south, opposite St Michael’s Mount.

There is a literary association with this

village; Lelant was birthplace of the famous

romantic novelist Rosamunde Pilcher. Pilcher

got her start in 1949 as an author of Mills and

Boon romances, under the name Jane Fraser.

She published 10 novels using that pen-name.

Two of her books, The Day of the Storm and

The Shell Seekers, both have Cornish settings.

GWITHIAN

4 miles E of St Ives on the B3301

This ancient village of thatched cottages and

houses, surrounded by sand dunes to the south

of Godrevy Point, remains unspoilt. The high

dunes, known as The Towans, back the long

stretch of sandy beach that forms the eastern

side of St Ives Bay and they have numerous

footpaths running through them that provide

perfect picnic areas. A sizeable prehistoric

settlement is said to lie buried beneath the

Towans, along with a 7th century oratory

founded by the Irish missionary, St Gothian.

GODOLPHIN CROSS

8 miles SE of St Ives off the B3302

Half-hidden in a valley on the Hayle to Helston

road, Godolphin Cross derived its name from

the cross roads which were encountered en

route to the estate of the Godolphin family – a

prominent Cornish family who made their

fortune through mining. The earliest sites

associated with both tin and copper mining lie

on the 550-acre Godolphin

Estate, acquired by the National

Trust in 1999. Money from these

minerals built the house.

Godolphin House, is an

exceptional part Tudor, part

Stuart house that still retains its

original Elizabethan stables. The

house is noted for its splendid

King’s Room, fine Jacobean

fireplaces and the unique north

front, which was completed

shortly after the Civil War and

incorporates an impressive

granite colonnade. The EntranceGwithian Beach

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Hall has a fine 16th century chimney piece,

and hung in the Dining Room is a painting by

John Wootton of the famous Godolphin

Arabian, one of the three stallions from which

all British thoroughbreds are descended.

The present house was preceded by a

small castle, built around 1300 by Sir

Alexander Godolghan. Outside, the gardens

still retain traces of their original ancient

raised walks and the carp ponds.

HAYLE

3 miles SE of St Ives on the B3302

Hayle is blessed with the dual attraction of a

3-mile long glorious golden beach and a

remarkable industrial heritage. Established in

the 18th century, Hayle town is divided into

two districts, Copperhouse and Foundry. Both

these names reflect Hayle’s industrial

heritage as a place where copper was

smelted and foundries made industrial

machinery. Iron worked in the foundries went

to make London’s Tower Bridge. These

industries have now largely gone, but Hayle

still has its harbour, from which a small

fishing fleet operates. The famous ‘three

miles of golden sand’ that constitute Hayle

beach, attract thousands of holidaymakers

every year. At the far end is the magical

Godrevy Island, which was immortalised by

Virginia Woolf in her novel To the Lighthouse.

Elizabeth Arden hails from these parts –

she was the first person to introduce eye

makeup and the concept of a salon makeover

to North America – as does the great Cornish

inventor, Richard Trevithick. It was here, in

the early 1800s, which he built an early

version of the steam locomotive and, not

long afterwards, one of the first railways in

the world was constructed to carry tin and

copper to the town from Redruth and the

mines in between. At the height of the

foundry industry in Hayle, in the 19th

century, steam powered engines built by the

famous company, Harveys of Hayle, were

being used in the majority of Cornwall’s

mines and beyond.

On the southern outskirts of the town is

Paradise Park, an award-winning wildlife

park that is home to some of the worlds rare

and most beautiful parrots and other birds,

as well as various other animals such as

otters, red squirrels and red pandas. The

park is set around a Victorian walled garden,

and features tropical plants which thrive in

Cornwall’s mild climate.

PERRANUTHNOE

7 miles S of St Ives off the A394

Perranuthnoe is a charming little village that

is often overlooked. The name is derived

from the saint’s name, Piran, patron saint of

Cornwall, plus the name of the local manor,

Uthno. The Parish Church of St Piran was

originally erected in the 13th century, with

an aisle being added in Tudor times. It was

restored in 1883. The village’s pub, the

Victoria Inn, is reckoned to be the oldest in

Cornwall, and was even mentioned in the

Domesday Book.

The Perranuthnoe craft centre houses

Village Crafts and Cornish Wools, well worth

a visit to see more than 60 local artists,

crafts people and musicians at work, and

they produce their own wool from local rare-

breed sheep and alpacas. The extensive

range of handmade crafts, jewellery,

clothing, cards, prints and gifts are available

to purchase.

From the village a steep flight of steps

lead down to Perran Sands, a sandy beach

that is one of the safest in the area for

bathing. Overlooking Mount’s Bay, to the

southeast, the cliffs lead to the jagged

Cudden Point, where many ships have

foundered, and which is now owned by the

National Trust.

Like so much of Cornwall, this was once a

mining area, and long disused mines and

shafts dot the local fields. There was copper

ANGARRACK INN

Angarrack, nr Hayle

Traditional village puboffering homecookedfood, a well stockedbar and a warm,friendly welcome toall.


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here and silver – but it was

never very profitable.

Perranuthnoe’s worst day was in

1861 when the boiler at Wheal

Charlotte exploded killing many

men. Locals say you can still

hear their cries to this day in

the rare moments when the

wind and the waves aren’t

pounding the shore too loudly.

GOLDSITHNEY


Every part of Cornwall seems to

have a legend or a piece of

folklore attached to it. And the

beautiful village of Goldsithney is no

exception. A legend tells of a wrestling match

in which the prize was a glove and, as well as

the glove, the village from which the winning

team came was allowed to collect all the

market dues. Sithney won it year after year,

until the wrestlers of Goldsithney, who refused

to give up the right to hold the fair each year,

won it. The village’s unusual name is thought

to come from the fact that the fair was moved

here in 1283 from nearby Sithney. The fair is

held each year at the beginning of August.

MARAZION


A port as long ago as the Bronze Age and for

many centuries the most important

settlement around Mount’s Bay, Marazion is

one of Cornwall’s oldest chartered towns (the

first charter was granted by Henry III in 1257

and reaffirmed in 1595 by Queen Elizabeth I).

Its long history, through which the port

continued to prosper with the export trade in

tin and copper, has left a legacy of fine old

inns and residential houses which overlook

the fine expanse of sandy beach. Marazion

Town Museum is housed in the town hall in

the small Market Square, in what was once

the fire brigade HQ and a jail. A typical cell

of the period has been reconstructed within

it. Another house in the square was where

Charles II hid after his defeat at the Battle of

Naseby in 1646.

To the northwest of the town is Marazion

Marsh, an extensive area of wetland and

reed beds behind Marazion Beach on the

Penzance road, where there’s an RSPB

reserve. Over 450 plant species have been

recorded here, and the area is home to many

nesting and roosting birds, including herons,

reed and sedge warblers, and Cetti’s warbler.

Guided tours with an RSPB warden are

available from May until September each

year. The beach, long favoured for its sunny

aspect and safe bathing, is also a well-known

windsurfing venue and the location of

national and international surfing and sailing

THE WHITE HART

Churchtown

This vibrant yet historic 13th century village inn isknown for its communityspirit and fine fusion oftraditional andcontemporary Britishfood.


79MOUNT HAVEN HOTEL ANDRESTAURANT

Marazion

An outstanding boutiquehotel offering the best inall facilities combined withstunning views over MountsBay.


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St Michael’s Mount

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championships. Chapel Rock, on the beach,

used to have a small chapel on it dedicated

to the Virgin Mary, where pilgrims would stop

to pray before continuing on to St Michael’s

Mount in Mount’s Bay.

The jewel in Cornwall’s crown, the

grandeur and wealth of history of St Michael’s

Mount, with its fairytale castle, ancient

harbour and church, make it a unique

attraction in Britain. Situated just 400 yards

offshore, access from Marazion is by foot

along the cobbled causeway, or by ferry at

high water.

Dominating Mount’s Bay, this remarkable

slate and granite outcrop rises majestically

almost 230 feet from sea level to the tower,

chapel and battlement of the castle. The

marvellous St Michael’s Mount Castle shows

differing architectural styles from the 17th

century through to the 19th. The house

contains some impressive medieval remains,

including the Chevy Chase Room, which was

the original monks’ refectory, and there are

other interesting details here such as the

Strawberry Hill Gothic plaster work in the

18th century Blue Drawing Room, the

artefacts in the Map and Museum Rooms and

paintings and portraits by such artists as the

Cornishman John Opie.

A vision of the Archangel St Michael to

some local fishermen in the 5th century led to

the construction of a church here. A place of

pilgrimage for centuries, it was Edward the

Confessor who, in 1044, founded a priory on

the mount. It was Robert Mortian, Earl of

Cornwall and William the Conquerer’s half-

brother, who gave the priory to the

Benedictine monks of the famous Mont St

Michel in Normandy. The monastery was

fortified after the Dissolution in 1539 and in

1660 it became the home of the St Aubyn

family, who donated it to the National Trust in

1964. The present Chapel of St Michael is

15th century, and has a small tower which was

used to guide ships in and out of local ports.

The steep sided islet has been inhabited

since prehistoric times and its Cornish name,

‘Carrick luz en cuz’ (meaning ‘the ancient

rock in the wood’), suggests that, at one

time, the coastline here was covered in

trees. Indeed, the fossilized remains of a

forest that once covered the land can be

seen at low tide. St Michael’s Mount is also

not far from the legendary lost land of

Lyonesse. The Mount was also the legendary

abode of the giants Cormoran and his wife

Cormelian. Jack the Giant killer eventually

defeated Cormoran, after the giant terrorised

the surrounding lands.

ZENNOR

4 miles W of St Ives on the B3306

The village of Zennor lies above the high,

rocky cliffs of the coast and the rugged,

boulder-strewn, granite hills and moors. In

this ancient community, where evidence has

been found of Bronze Age settlers, the 12th

century St Senara’s Parish Church is famous

for a bench end that depicts a mermaid

holding a comb and mirror and resembling

the Greek goddess of love, Aphrodite. The

carving relates to a local legend according to

which a mermaid lured a handsome chorister,

the squire’s son Matthew Trewhella, to the

sea, from which he never returned. Her

name, it is said, was Morveren. An enchanting

singer herself, on a warm summer’s evening

it is said that their voices can be heard rising

from beneath the waves.

On the left of the church doorway, is a

memorial to John Davey, who died in 1898

stating that he was the last person to have

any great knowledge of the native Cornish

language, Kernewek. Behind the church is a

stone where it is said that the Giant of

Zennor would sit. He was not a typical

Cornish giant as he was fond of people and

liked their company. One day he patted a

human on the head in a friendly way but

inadvertently fractured the poor man’s skull.

The giant was so full of remorse that he died

WAYSIDE FOLK MUSEUM

Zennor

Numerous photosand artefactsillustrate the livesof the localpeople.

See entry on page

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of a broken heart soon afterwards.

For an insight into the history of Zennor

and the surrounding area, the Wayside Folk

Museum is the oldest private museum in

Cornwall covering every aspect of the

region’s past from 3,000 BC to the 1930’s.

The museum houses a collection of over

5,000 items covering local mining and

quarrying, agriculture, archaeology and

domestic history. In the delightful grounds

are two waterwheels from the mining

industry and a collection of corn-grinding

querns and stone tools dating as far back as

3,000 BC. The ‘people of Zennor’ exhibition

details the lives of many who lived in the

area, including DH Lawrence.

Though the village retains no trace of

Lawrence’s presence today, you might invoke

his memory in the Tinners Arms (built in

1271). It was at this pub that DH Lawrence

spent many hours while living with his wife

Frieda in the village during World War I. His

enthusiasm for the village was gradually

eroded by the hostility of the local

constabulary and the residents, who were

suspicious of a controversial writer living

with a German wife so close to the coast.

The couple spent a year and a half in Zennor

and while here, under police surveillance, he

wrote Women in Love.

Behind the Tinners Arms, next to the

church, a fairly level path leads less than a

mile northwest to the sea at Zennor Head,

where there is some awe-inspiring cliff

scenery above the sandy Pendour Cove (the

fabled home of Zennor’s mermaid). In the

opposite direction, just to the southeast of

Zennor on the granite moorland, lies the

Neolithic chamber tomb, Zennor Quoit.

Thought to be some 4,500 years old, the

tomb has a huge capstone that was once

supported on five broad uprights, with two

standing stones marking the entrance to the

inner chamber. Another such ancient

monument to be found in this area is Mulfra

Quoit, 2 miles to the southeast of the

village. The whole thing has partially

collapsed, with the 5-ton capstone lying

against the uprights at an angle.

PENZANCE

Perched dramatically above Mount’s Bay,

Penzance comes from the Cornish ‘pen sans’,

meaning ‘holy headland’, as an ancient

chapel dedicated to St Mary used to stand on

the headland to the west of the present

harbour. For centuries, it was a remote

market town which made its living from

fishing, mining and smuggling. Today, it is has

all the trappings of the holiday industry due

to the rail link to London which was

established in the 1860’s. Along with nearby

Newlyn and Mousehole, most traces of the

medieval town were obliterated in 1595 by a

Spanish raiding party, including the ancient

chapel. The predominant style now is

Regency and Victorian, and Penzance is home

to Cornwall’s only promenade, which

stretches to Newlyn. The town’s

main function, besides being a

tourist centre, is costal

defence.

This is a place of great

vitality and originality with

much of interest to see and do.

The Penzance Town Trail takes

visitors on a circular route that

winds through the town, tracing

its story through buildings and

historical remains, statues and

medieval crosses, churches,

chapels, gardens and shops.

There is a guidebook which

describes the 16 waymarkers.View West from Zennor Head

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The Penzance Town Trail Guidebook is

available from Penzance Town Council

Offices, Penlee House Museum and Gallery

and some local shops.

If you are short on time, many of the

town’s most interesting buildings can be

found on Chapel Street, which leads down

from the domed Market House, built in 1836,

to the quay. Outside the Market House is a

statue to Penzance’s most famous son, Sir

Humphry Davy (1778-1829), considered to be

one of the greatest British chemists. Davy

discovered six new elements including

potassium and sodium, discovered the use of

nitrous oxide (‘laughing gas’), and played a

large part in the local mining community

when he invented the miners’ safety lamp,

which bears his name and which can be seen

on the statue.

One of the more exotic buildings along

this narrow thoroughfare is the Egyptian

House, built in the 1830s and restored by

the Landmark Trust. It is an amazing

confection of paned windows, painted walls

and elaborate mouldings. Behind the

Georgian facade of The Union Hotel

opposite is an impressive Elizabethan

interior where, from a minstrels’ gallery in

the assembly room, the first mainland

announcement of the victory of Trafalgar

and the death of Lord Nelson was made.

BLUE BAY CAFE

Penzance

A friendly cafeoffering a variedmenu with homebakedcakes and anextensive wine list.


82

WAVE’S CAFÉ BAR

Penzance

See for yourself whyWave’s has beenawarded a gold Chefsaward for promotinghealthy eating.


81

COUNTRY COUSINS CAFÉ

Penzance

A team of hard working brothers front up this finecafé found in abeautiful old marketbuilding, known for itswholesome homemadefood.


85

NUMBER NINE

Penzance

A unique bed andbreakfast offeringextremely comfortableaccommodation in alovely Georgian house.


84

THE HONEY POT

Penzance

Delicious home cooking is combined here withfriendly andknowledgeable servicemaking any trip to thischarming cafe a goodone.


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Egyptian House, Penzance

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Further down is Chapel Street, where No

25 was the childhood home of Marie

Branwell, the mother of the Bront‘ sisters.

Local history and the work of the Newlyn

School of artists can be seen at the Penlee

House Gallery and Museum, where paintings

of the Newlyn school can be seen, including

those by Walter Langley, and where the

county’s long association with the mining

industry led to the foundation of the Royal

Geological Society of Cornwall in 1814.

Along the promenade lies the Jubilee

Pool, a wonderful open-air seawater

swimming pool that still has its original art

deco styling. The pool is open every summer

from the end of May to early September.

Over 10 days in late June, the Golowan

Festival (Cornish for ‘midsummer’) is the

festival of Saint John and features fireworks,

a variety of music and other entertainments,

culminating in the Mazey weekend and

notably Mazey Day on the Saturday, which

centres around the parades and other street

events in the centre of town. Quay Fair Day

takes place on the Sunday when focus moves

to the harbour area and the promenade.

Anyone who saw the television adaptation

of Mary Wesley’s novel The Camomile Lawn

will recognise Penzance as the town to which

the three main characters, Calypso, Walter

and Polly, came for their annual summer visit.

Two miles west of Penzance at Buryas

Bridge, Trewidden Garden is best known for

its camellias, with a collection of over 300

varieties built up over many decades from

places as far afield as China and India. Other

highlights include a superb magnolia x veitchii

that is believed to be the largest specimen in

the British Isles, and which overshadows a

pond. There are also several remnants of the

tin mining industry and a bomb crater formed

in World War II when a series of parachute

bombs exploded in the area.

AROUND PENZANCE

NEWLYN

1 mile SW of Penzance on the B3315

The settlement is recorded as Nulyn in 1279

and as Lulyn in 1290, the name probably

derived from the Cornish for ‘pool for a fleet

of boats’. Newlyn (Cornish ‘Lulynn’) has long

been associated with fishing, today it is the

base for around 200 vessels, which vary

greatly in size, and whose valuable catches

are now shipped around Britain and Europe in

massive refrigerated lorries. It’s a refreshing

contrast to the dwindling activity evident in

most of Cornwall’s other ports. The fishing

industry, like other industries, was spurred on

by the arrival of the railways - at Newlyn in

1859 - which allowed the swift transportation

of fresh fish and seafood to London and

beyond. Before the coming of railways, the

fish had to be salted to preserve them. The

Pilchard Works in the town continues to

produce a range of fish products, employing

traditional methods and using

fish from sustainable stocks. The

Newlyn Fish Festival celebrates

the Cornish fish industry over the

August bank holiday, with

samplings of local seafood as

well as exhibitions of craftwork

and Cornish entertainment.

Fishing is not the only reason

for visiting Newlyn. Drawn to

the town by the exceptionally

clear natural light, Stanhope

Forbes came here in the 1880s

to paint outside rather than in a

studio. He was soon joined by

other artists keen to experience

Harbour Lighthouse, Penzance

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the joys of working here and the

Newlyn School of art developed

with the help of artists such as

Lamorna Birch, Alfred Munnings,

Norman Garstin and Laura

Knight. The town is still a

favourite place for artists, and

the Newlyn Art Gallery,

founded in 1895 by the

Cornishman Passmore Edwards,

shows the paintings of those

living and working here today,

together with changing

exhibitions of the Newlyn artists

past and present.

In 1755 the Lisbon earthquake over 1,000

miles away caused a tsunami to strike the

Cornish coast. The sea rose 10 feet in 10

minutes at Newlyn, ebbed at the same rate,

and continued to rise and fall for 5 hours.

MOUSEHOLE

2½ miles S of Penzance off the B3315

Dylan Thomas married Caitlin Macnamara,

from County Clare in Ireland, in nearby

Penzance Registry Office in July 1937, against

the wishes of his parents. The pair

honeymooned in Mousehole, which Thomas

described as ‘the loveliest village in

England’. Mousehole (pronounced ‘Mowzel’)

is indeed the epitome of a Cornish fishing

village. Accounts vary as to the derivation of

the name of Mousehole, originally the village

was named Porth Enys, ‘port of the island’, a

reference to St Clement’s Isle, a low, bare

reef that faces the village a few hundred

yards offshore. Its present name may have

been taken from a smugglers’ cave just south

of the town. Certainly visited by Phoenician

tin merchants in around 500 BC - it is also

thought that the village’s name could have

been derived from the Phoenician word for

‘watering place’ - Mousehole has a long and

sometimes disturbing history. Some 2,000

years after these first known visitors, the

Spanish arrived and ransacked the village in

1595, leaving only the former manor house,

now known as Squire Keigwin, in Keigwin

Street relatively unscathed. The rest of the

village and the church in nearby Paul were

torched. However, this attack was not totally

unexpected by the villagers as they saw it as

the fulfilment of a prophecy made by Merlin

that can be seen inscribed on Merlin’s Rock,

near the quay. The stone bears these words:

‘There shall land on the Rock of Merlin

Those who shall burn Paul,

Penzance and Newlyn.’

The village was rebuilt and went on to

become an important pilchard fishing port

until the stocks of fish dwindled in the early

20th century. Every year just before

Christmas, a Stargazy Pie - a local specialty

made with whole fish whose heads stick up

through the pastry crust - is made in

THE CORNISH RANGE RESTAURANTWITH ROOMS

Mousehole

This outstanding village puboozes style and class andserves delicious home cookedfood daily.


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Mousehole Harbour

JESSIE’S DAIRY

Mousehole

Jessie’s specialises inhome made produce and iswell known for thedelicious traditionalCornish pasties and creamteas.


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commemoration of Tom

Bawcock, a local fisherman

who saved Mousehole from

starvation by setting sail in

a storm and bringing home

a large catch of seven

varieties of fish.

Less fortunate were the

eight man crew of the

Penlee lifeboat, the

Solomon Browne, who were

lost in hurricane conditions

while attempting to rescue

the last four crew members

from the coaster Union

Star, after it suffered

engine failure in December 1981. There were

no survivors from the Union Star, in total

there were 16 casualties. The Penlee

Lifeboat Disaster Memorial commemorates

those who lost their lives.

On the cliffs at Raginnis Hill is the

Mousehole Wild Bird Hospital & Sanctuary.

It became famous following the Torrey

Canyon oil tanker disaster off the west

Cornish coast in March 1967 when over 8,000

oil-affected birds were treated.

Half a mile inland, at the top of steep

Mousehole Hill, the churchyard wall at Paul

holds the Dolly Pentreath Memorial. Dolly

Pentreath died in 1777, aged 102, and was

reputedly the last person to speak the

Cornish language, Kernewek.

LAMORNA

4 miles SW of Penzance off the B3315

This isolated hamlet is set in the craggy

Lamorna Cove, immortalised by the artist

‘Lamorna Birch’ (real name Samuel John

Birch) and author Derek Tangye, who were

among several artists attracted to this area

between 1880 and 1910. Birch died in 1955,

and Tangye, who wrote the immensely

popular Minack Chronicles, died in 1996.

Once only licensed to sell beer, Lamorna’s

pub, The Wink, got its name from the old

custom of winking to the landlord to obtain

contraband spirits from under the counter.

From the village it is easy to visit the

Merry Maidens, a ring of stones in an open

field. The rough-hewn circle is said to be all

that remains of a group of local women

turned to stone as a punishment for dancing

on Sunday. Other than the likelihood that the

ring dates from some time between 2400 and

800 BC, nothing is known about their origins

or significance though they were probably the

focus of some ceremonial function. Just 275

yards from the Merry Maidens are the largest

standing stones (or ‘menhirs’) in Penwith,

called The Pipers, the tallest being 16 feet.

Both stones, one of which has a definite

slant, are within a couple of hundred feet of

each other.

ST BURYAN

5 miles SW of Penzance on the B3283

This village is home to one of the finest

churches in the county, St Buryan’s Parish

Church. The first church was built by King

Athelstan in the 10th century. Having

subdued the Scilly Isles, he returned to the

mainland and founded a collegiate church,

that is, a church with a college of priests

rather than monks, and dedicated it to St

Buriana. She was said to be the virgin

daughter of an Irish king who landed at St

Ives in the 5th century. The church is packed

with interesting features, such as

misericords, a fine font, a chancel screen

and a 14th century tower that dominates the

landscape and provides a daymark for

shipping around Land’s End. Apart from the

Celtic crosses beside the porch, the most

Lamorna Cove

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interesting feature in the graveyard is a

stone that reads:

‘Here lie John and Richard Benn

Two lawyers and two honest men.

God works miracles now and then.’

To the north of St Buryan is the Boscawen-

Un Stone Circle which, though not the most

impressive in the country, certainly has much

appeal; the circle is in fact an oval made up

of 19 stones, and its central standing stone -

an attractive 8 feet tall leaning pillar of

sparkling quartz, was deliberately placed so

that it leaned at an angle, its tip only being 6

feet from the ground.

TREEN

6½ miles SW of Penzance on the B3315

Situated in a shallow valley, Treen is a good

base for local cliff walking and bird watching,

as well as the nearest point across to Logan

Rock and Pedn Vounder Beach. The headland

to the east of the beach is the location of

the famous Logan Rock, a massive 70-ton

granite boulder that was once so finely

balanced that it could be rocked – reputedly

at the merest touch. The rock was a popular

tourist attraction until 1824, when Lieutenant

Hugh Goldsmith (the nephew of the poet and

playwright Oliver Goldsmith), egged on by

some Royal Navy colleagues, pushed the

stone on to the beach below. After many

complaints by the locals, the naval officer

was instructed to replace the rock - an

extraordinary feat of engineering in itself - at

his own expense, but the fine balance the

rock once had has never returned. This act of

misadventure is recorded in the local inn.

Below Logan Rock is the spectacularly sited

Iron Age coastal fort, Treryn Dinas. Despite

having been constructed over 2,000 years

ago, the earthwork defences on the landward

side can still be made out.

PORTHCURNO

7½ miles SW of Penzance off the B3315

Overlooking one of the most dramatic and

atmospheric coves in southwest Cornwall,

Porthcurno’s triangle of beach, made up of

crushed sea shells, is sheltered by Gwennap

Head to the west and Cribba Head to the

east. In ancient times, Porthcurno was home

to Selevan, a Celtic saint. Evidence of his

presence exists today in the form of St

Levan’s well with its flight of stone steps, St

Levan’s cross and the Parish Church of St

Levan which dates back to the 13th century.

It was from this village, in 1870, that the

first telegraph cable was laid, linking Britain

to the rest of the world, and this little bay

soon became known as ‘the centre of the

universe’, its telegraphic code name was ‘PK’.

The Porthcurno Telegraph Museum explains

the technology that has been developed, from

Victorian times to the present day, to make

global communications possible. The museum

is housed in a secret underground wartime

bunker, with some of the equipment still being

in good working order.

Porthcurno is also the home

of the Minack Theatre, the

most famous cliff theatre in

Britain, possibly in the world.

This open-air amphitheatre, cut

into the high cliffs, was founded

by Rowena Cade. With her

resourcefulness and financial

input its first production, The

Tempest, was staged in 1932. A

summer season has continued

ever since in the 750-

auditorium. The theatre is well

worth a visit even when there

isn’t a performance, for the

spectacular panorama of

Minack Theatre, Porthcurno

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Porthcurno Bay, the thriving sub-tropical

plants and the Rowena Cade Visitor Centre,

which tells the extraordinary history of this

unique theatre.

PORTHGWARRA

8 miles SW of Penzance off the B3315

This quaint old fishing hamlet lies just

northeast of the high cliffs of Gwennap Head

from which there is a spectacular coastal

walk to Land’s End, although walkers should

be aware that the terrain is sometimes

rugged. A tunnel runs from the slipway up to

the road at Porthgwarra, and some people

claim it was dug and used by smugglers. A

more likely explanation, however, is that it

was excavated to allow farmers to bring

seaweed from the beach to their fields to use

as fertiliser.

The small and cosy cove, with its sandy

beach and backdrop of steep cliffs, was once

known as Sweetheart’s Cove as this is

where, many years ago, Nancy, a prosperous

farmer’s daughter from the village, said

goodbye to her forbidden lover, William, who

had been a farmhand on her father’s farm.

Nancy’s parents had objected to the

marriage, considering William not to be good

enough, but then relented, saying that before

any marriage could take place, William had

to go to sea for three years to make his

fortune. Three years passed, and there was

no sign of William, much to the parents’

delight. Nancy watched constantly from the

shore for her lover’s return, and

her parents eventually became

worried by her peculiar

behaviour. One evening Nancy’s

Aunt Prudence heard voices

coming from Nancy’s room and

she eavesdropped, clearly

hearing William say ‘Waken up

and come to the shore, my love,

where I await you’.

Nancy went to the shore,

and her aunt followed, only to

see Nancy safe in the arms of

William by the shore. However,

a sudden wave engulfed them

both and they were swept out

to sea. A few days later word reached the

distraught parents that William had indeed

been returning home on that fateful night,

and that he had climbed the mast to get his

first look at Porthgwarra where Nancy

awaited him. Alas he fell from the mast, and

was swept overboard and drowned. Neither

he nor Nancy were ever seen again.

LAND’S END

9 miles SW of Penzance on the A30;

(874 miles SW of John O’Groats)

A curious mix of natural spectacle and man-

made indulgence, Land’s End, England’s

most westerly point, is certainly one of the

country’s most famous landmarks.

Notwithstanding the commercialisation and

the dubious tourist trappings, it is still a

spectacular place. You cannot fail to feel a

sense of awe and wonder as you stand on

the 200 feet high granite rocks that gaze out

on the Atlantic and the lost land of

Lyonesse. Known to the Romans as Bolerium,

or Seat of Storms, from this headland can be

seen Longships Lighthouse, which protects

shipping from the Longships reef just

offshore and Wolf Rock Lighthouse, some 7

miles away.

The scenery is the amazing natural

attraction here, but there’s much more to

interest the visitor. The Land’s End centre

features the history and heritage of Cornwall

and Land’s End, including tales of the sea and

smuggling. Attractions include ‘The Curse of

The Cliffs, Land’s End

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Skull Rock’ a 4-D adventure film

for all the family, an Air Sea

rescue film, a new exhibition for

2011, The Monsters of the Deep,

and the free exhibition ‘The End

to End Story’. The West Country

Shopping Village sells a range of

clothing, West Country foods,

gifts and souvenirs. But for those

who wish to ‘get away from it

all’, the tourist complex can

soon be left behind as the moors

and the cliffs are ever-present

close by. A short walk northwards

over the cliffs at Land’s end

brings the visitor to Sennen Cove

(see also Sennen), a wide sandy beach backed

by sand dunes, where the stron Atlantic

breakers make it very popular for surfing.

Naturally, this place has given rise to

numerous legends over the centuries and one

claims that Land’s End was once the entrance

to Lyonesse, the fertile kingdom that

stretched from here to the Isles of Scilly

some 28 miles to the southwest. With great

cities and 140 churches, it is said to have

been engulfed by a great wave on 11th

November 1099, taking with it all the fine

buildings and all its inhabitants bar one man -

Trevilian, who escaped from Lyonesse riding a

white horse. The Trevilian family crest still

depicts a horse rising from the waves.

For many years afterwards, sailors would

tell of hearing bells ringing beneath the

waves, and fishermen would claim that

doors, furniture and pottery had been

brought up in their nets. In the 1930s a

journalist actually claimed he had heard the

bells in the night, and people still say that

occasionally they have made out walls and

battlements beneath the waves. It goes

without saying that the legend of King Arthur

has been caught up in all this.

SENNEN

8 miles SW of Penzance on the A30

The most westerly village in England, there

are superb cliff walks along the coast to

Land’s End and, close to the massive Pedn-

men-du headland, lie the remains of a

clifftop Castle, one of the country’s earliest –

dating from 300 BC. The wide sandy beach at

Sennen Cove is ideal for both bathing and

surfing, and the former windlass house of the

lifeboat station has been converted into an

arts and crafts gallery. Sennen Cove beach

was awarded a Blue Flag in 2010, and there is

lifeguard cover from May to September. St

Sennen Parish Church is named after a

supposed Irish saint, Sinninus, who

accompanied St Patrick to Rome, though a

more likely explanation for the name is that

Sennen comes from the Cornish ‘sen nan’,

meaning ‘holy valley’. The church dates

mainly from the 15th century. There are some

medieval wall paintings in the south aisle.

BRANE

4½ miles W of Penzance off the A30

Just to the west of this lovely hamlet is the

fascinating Iron Age courtyard village of Carn

Euny, founded around 200 BC by an early

Cornish farming community, though there is

evidence that the site was inhabited long

before this. By far the most impressive

building here is the Fogou, which was first

discovered by miners in the 19th century.

Taking its name from the Cornish for ‘cave’,

this underground chamber was constructed in

three separate stages and this 65 feet long

room was entered by a low, ‘creep’ passage

at one end. Its purpose is still unclear

although it may have been used for storage

or for religious ceremonies. Immediately west

Sennen Cove

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of Carn Euny is Bartinney Downs, a large

area of heathland being managed with a

programme of controlled cattle and sheep

grazing and cutting of scrub that will result

in a high-quality wildlife area. As well as

improving and extending existing wildlife

habitats, the scheme will conserve

archaeological sites and historic features,

which include old china clay works,

abandoned quarries and the ruins of

Bartinney Castle.

SANCREED

3½ miles W of Penzance off the A30

In the churchyard of 15th century St Credan’s

Parish Church can be found five Celtic

Crosses, some of the many that are scattered

around Cornwall. One in particular, at 9 feet

high, and of the wheel-head shape, is the

best example of its kind in the county. The

existence of Sancreed Holy Well nearby and

the curious circular formation of the site

suggests that the church is built on much

older foundations. In the surrounding area of

Sancreed are two Bronze Age monuments, the

Blind Fiddler and the Two Sisters. Like many

Cornish ‘menhirs’ they are said to represent

human beings turned to stone for committing

irreligious acts on the Sabbath. In the 19th

century, bone fragments and ashes were

found at the base of the Blind Fiddler, not by

an official dig but by a treasure hunter.

ST JUST-IN-PENWITH

6½ miles NW of Penzance on the A3071

The main centre at the peninsula’s western

end, St Just was one of the copper and tin

mining centres of Cornwall, and the area

surrounding the town is littered with

industrial remains. However, the mainly 15th

century St Just’s Parish Church contains

some fascinating early relics, including two

heavily restored medieval wall paintings, and

a 5th century burial stone on which is carved

one of the earliest English Christian

inscriptions. St Just, or Justus, was sent to

England by Pope Gregory in AD 596, along

with St Augustine, to convert the Saxons and

Celts of the country. In AD 616 he was

appointed Archbishop of Canterbury. Near the

town’s clock tower, at the centre of St Just,

is a shallow grassy amphitheatre that is

known as Plen-an-Gwary, which means

‘playing place’. This was where medieval

plays were performed up until the 17th

century and which is now the setting for an

annual. Event, the Lafrowda Festival. It is

said to be the oldest still-working theatre in

Britain, and it is here that the Ordinalia, a

religious trilogy consisting of a Creation play,

a Passion play and a Resurrection play in

Cornish, are performed most years.

A narrow road leads from the town

westwards to Cape Cornwall, the only cape

in England and Wales, from where there are

views of Land’s End and of the Longships

Lighthouse. For years this headland – topped

by the stack of the Cape Cornwall Mine –

was thought to be England’s westernmost

point, until more accurate means of

measurement decided the contest in favour

of Land’s End.

On the southern side of the headland lies

Priest’s Cove, a quiet boulder strewn beach,

and further along the South West Coast

Path, which follows the clifftops, there is an

unusual Bronze Age burial chamber, Ballowall

Barrow. Cape Cornwall marks the supposed

boundary between the English and St

George’s channels.

BOTALLACK

7 miles NW of Penzance on the B3306

Almost overlooking the coast lies the remains

of the old engine houses of Botallack Mine,

the underground workings of which once

went out beneath the sea bed. Its old

workings are the most recognised symbol of

Cornwall’s proud mining heritage. But this

THE COOK BOOK

St Just

Book and food lovers willsee their dreams realisedin this unusual cafe whichoffers delicious homebaked food alongsideacres of second handbooks to browse.


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was a harsh industry that sometimes claimed

lives. In 1863 the chain that pulled the mine

gig suddenly broke, causing eight men and a

boy to plummet to their deaths down the

shaft. Among the derelict buildings are also

the remains of one of the mine’s arsenic-

refining works. The smell of arsenic can still

be detected in the old flues.

KENIDJACK

7 miles NW of Penzance off the B3306

Close to this old mining village lies Carn

Kenidjack, a rocky outcrop with a stone

circle. There is a tale centred on Carn

Kenidjack about two miners who encountered

a black-robed horseman. He led them to Carn

Kenidajck, where two demons were engaged

in a wrestling match. During the fight, one of

the demons was thrown against a rock and,

overcome with Christian charity, the two

miners whispered a prayer into the ear of the

dying creature. Immediately the ground

trembled and the whole demonic party

disappeared in a black cloud. The terrified

miners hid on the carn until daylight before

making their way home. The carn is also

known as the ‘Hooting Carn’, due to the

strange noise the wind makes as it passes

over it. It is well worth a visit, if only to sit

there and relax. Also worth a look are the

nearby Dancing Stones of Tregeseal.

PENDEEN

6½ miles NW of Penzance on the B3306

Tin has been mined in and around this village

since prehistoric times and, from the 19th

century, Pendeen also became a centre for

copper extraction. Not surprisingly, it is this

industry that dominates and to the northwest

of the village there are two interesting old

mines that are now open to the public. The

last of 20 or so mines in the area to close

was Geevor Tin Mine, where production

ceased in 1990. Now, extensively preserved

as the Geevor Tin Mine and Heritage

Centre, it is the largest preserved mining site

in Britain, and an important part of the World

Heritage Site area for Cornish mining

recognised by UNESCO in 2006. Visitors can

enjoy a fascinating close-up view of the

Cornish mining industry. You might finish up a

guided tour in the on-site cafe, which affords

distant views west to the coast, as far as the

engine house of the Levant Mine. The Levant

Beam Engine is the oldest working steam

engine in the country, now restored and

functioning. In 1919, Levant was the scene of

a tragic accident when the ‘man engine’, or

mechanical lift, broke away from its upper

coupling killing 31 men and seriously injuring

many others.

Further to the north, on the slate

promontory of Pendeen Watch stands

Pendeen Lighthouse that has been guiding

ships for nearly a century. Since all

lighthouses were fully automated, Pendeen

has been open for guided tours around the

TREWELLARD ARMS

Trewellard

With 5 real ales servedand a fantastic beerfestival annually, this freehouse is one to enjoy allyear round.


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Engine House, Botallack

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light and the engine house. The headland

also gives access to the lovely rocky

Portheras Cove, a 10 -minute walk east,

where you’ll find a pleasant cove with a

white sand beach. Until 2004 parts of the

beach were out of bounds due to razor sharp

metal fragments under the sand – the legacy

of a botched attempt to dynamite an old

wreck. Seals are a common sight here.

MADRON

1½ miles NW of Penzance off the A30

The part 14th century St Maddern’s Parish

Church was once the mother church to

Penzance and inside can be seen a Trafalgar or

Nelson Banner, placed there during the events

that followed the news of Trafalgar and

Nelson’s death. Close to the village centre,

down an overgrown path, lies the source of St

Maddern’s Well that was thought to have

curative powers, especially to those with

rickets who tied a rag to the small thorn tree

growing here. It was also used for divination,

showing that the well had pre-Christian

origins. Young women would tie two pieces of

straw together in the form of a cross, and

stick a pin in it. They would then place it on

the water; the number of bubbles rising as it

gradually sank indicating how many years it

would be until they married. Further along the

path are the remains of St Maddern’s Cell,

the place where the

saint, who lived in

the 6th century, was

said to have baptised

villagers and which

was destroyed by

Cromwellian soldiers

in 1646.

North of Madron,

the landscape of

granite and hilly

moorland is an apt

setting for the

cluster of enigmatic

relics of Cornwall’s

prehistory scattered

about there. In

particular, there is

Lanyon Quoit and

the granite Men-an-Tol, a holed stone that

was originally the entrance to a tomb

chamber. For centuries, this granite ring was

thought to have curative powers and naked

children were passed through its centre nine

times to cure all manner of diseases. A few

miles from Men-an-Tol, is Chun Quoit – one

of the most dramatic of Penwith’s quoits.

Chun resembles a giant mushroom; a

‘capstone’ is poised on top of four upright

slabs, together enclosing a chamber within

which bones of ancestors may have been laid.

NEW MILL

4 miles N of Penzance off the B3311

On a windy hillside northeast of the village

lies Chysauster Ancient Village, which is

administered by English Heritage. In around

500 BC, the Celts established themselves in

the region, bringing with them weapons and

tools made of iron. Much given to tribal

wards, the Celts constructed sturdy hill-forts

throughout the peninsula, and the best

preserved is Chysauster, dating from around

the first century BC and occupied until

around AD 400. This ancient village was

discovered during archaeological excavations

in the 1860s. For all its age, the village has

surprisingly modern features – neat rows of

paired cottages, each with their own

terraced garden and paved courtyard.

Chysauster Ancient Village, nr New Mill

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Accommodation, Food & Drinkand Places to Visit

The establishments featured in this section includes hotels, inns, guest houses,

bed & breakfasts, restaurants, cafés, tea and coffee shops, tourist attractions

and places to visit. Each establishment has an entry number which can be used to

identify its location at the beginning of the relevant county chapter.

In addition full details of all these establishments and many others can be found

on the Travel Publishing website - www.findsomewhere.co.uk. This website has

a comprehensive database covering the whole of the United Kingdom.

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THE BEACH AT BUDESummerleaze Crescent, Bude,Cornwall EX23 8HLTel: 01288 389800e-mail: [email protected]: www.thebeachatbude.co.uk

Luxury Boutique Accommodation in Cornwall

with Stunning Sea Views

Located on Summerleaze Crescent with stunning views of

Summerleaze Beach is a fantastic find in The Beach at Bude. Tim

Davis and his team turned what was a dilapidated and sad

building into a splendid place of contemporary elegance for

people to stay, holiday makers and business travellers alike. The

staff go that extra mile to make sure a visit is one to repeat and

guests will be impressed with how much this bed and breakfast

has to offer.

Most of the luxurious rooms have uninterrupted views over

Summerleaze Beach and the Atlantic Ocean offering a truly unique experience. Each bedroom comes

equipped with far more than you would expect to see in a bed and breakfast: flat screen TV, Blu-Ray

player, Wi-Fi and internet cable, iPod docking station, direct-dial telephone, hairdryer, mini fridge

(containing complimentary milk and mineral water), hospitality tray, Molton Brown toiletries and a

safe for valuables. All the bedrooms are decorated in a New England seaside style, and have cooling

limed oak furniture, Vi-Spring beds, Lloyd Loom chairs and duck down duvets/pillows. Hollow fibre

bedding is available upon request.

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WEST POINT BED & BREAKFASTCrimp, Morwenstow, Bude, Cornwall EX23 9PBTel: 01288 331594e-mail: [email protected]: www.budebedandbreakfast.co.uk

West Point is a 4 star quality bungalow with all rooms on

the ground level. Set in half an acre of lovely tranquil

and interesting gardens, where guests are invited to sit

and relax or experience the beautiful skies as the sun

goes down over the horizon. Guests have their own

entrance and all day access.

All rooms are en suite and beautifully decorated

throughout with free view TVs plus many additional

extras. The extra large double room has a comfortable

four-poster bed, en suite shower room and a delightful

sitting area that can easily be converted into a family

room for four. Guests also have the use of a large cosy

lounge area with leather sofas and log burning stove for

those cool autumn evenings.

West Point is in an ideal situation for touring the

countryside or walking the many miles of coastal paths.

Being in an area of outstanding natural beauty, the views

over rolling hills and out to the sea beyond are truly

breathtaking.

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BULLERS ARMS HOTELMarhamchurch, nr Bude,Cornwall EX23 0HBTel: 01288 361277e-mail: [email protected]: www.bullersarms.co.uk

Daniel Anstis brought years of experience in the licensing

and catering business when he took over Bullers Arms Hotel

in October 2006. Built as a typical Cornish ‘Longhouse’, it

has been an inn since 1856 and over the years has become

one of the best known and best loved in the whole county.

It was originally called Kings Arms, but its name was

changed after the Boar War to commemorate the deed of

Sir Redvers Buller, who led the relief of Mafeking. Born

just over the border in Devon, he became a hero in the

whole region, and indeed to the nation.

The hotel, which stands off the A39 two miles southeast

of Bude, is full of old-world charm with old stone and

brick, polished dark wood, gleaming brass, an open fire,

period prints and memorabilia plus lots of cosy corners.

Regular real ales including Betty Stogs, Tribute, Abbot Ale

and their own named ale from Tintagel Brewery called

‘General Buller Gold’ are all available lunchtimes and

evenings, throughout the day Saturday and Sunday and all

day in the summer. Their real ales are Cask Marque

Accredited. The top quality, homemade food available

varies from a tempting range of light bites and traditional

fayre in the bar (with waitress service) to an altogether

finer dining experience with their ‘Tonight’s Specials’

menu. Samples from the top class menu include pan fried

chicken with a bacon and stilton sauce served with fresh

vegetables and new potatoes, Sarah’s steak and ale pie in a

shortcrust pastry served with fresh vegetables and new

potatoes and a Mediterranean vegetable lasagne served

with a ciabatta garlic bread. The ever popular Sunday

Carvery boasts four meats and no fewer than seven freshly

prepared vegetables. To finish off the ‘Dessert Specials’

are freshly homemade and sure to delight all who indulge!

For visitors looking for accommodation, the hotel offers

eight comfortable, well furnished guest rooms, all with en-

suite facilities and varying in size, which are available on

B&B basis. The hotel also has a large Function Suite. This

is a great base for tourists with plenty to discover in the

area beginning with the 14th century Church of St

Marwenne which stands in the village itself. With the

recently re-developed canal walk now open, Bude and

Marhamchurch are accessible to each other by foot

enabling the walker to take in the flora and fauna! Bullers

Arms Hotel is among the top Cornish hotels, combining the

best qualities of a much loved local, good value restaurant

and comfortable hotel.

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PENPETHY HOLIDAYCOTTAGES

Lower Penpethy Farm, Tintagel, Cornwall PL34 0HHTel: 01840 213903e-mail: [email protected]

Steve Steadman is the proud owner and craftsman behind Penpethy

Holiday Cottages. These delightful cottages have been converted

from old barns to create attractive and unique holiday

accommodation in the heart of Cornwall. They are ideally situated

for exploring the North Cornwall coast and Bodmin Moor which are

just a short drive away. Visitors can content themselves with

leisurely country and coastal walks in the surrounding area, bursting

to the brim with the natural, rugged beauty that Cornwall is known

for. An afternoon’s stroll might take you down to the sandy bay of

Trebarwith Strand where swimming, sun-bathing and surfing are all popular activities. Alternately you

might end up exploring one of the nearby fishing villages and sampling some fresh local seafood, or

invigorate the senses with a blustery hike along one of the area’s dramatic and rocky headlands.

Cottage visitors also have easy access to various golf courses and fishing sites with still water trout

and coarse fishing nearby.

Within the cottages themselves, guests benefit from luxury en suite bathrooms, open plan living

areas, comfortable bedrooms, flatscreen TV’s and handsome furnishings. There are three one

bedroom cottages and one two bedroom cottages to choose from, located within their own private

courtyard. Perfect for lazy BBQs, a separate barn contains garden furniture so that the sunny south

facing courtyard can be enjoyed fully in the summer months.

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MUSEUM OF WITCHCRAFTThe Harbour, Boscastle, Cornwall PL35 0HDTel: 01840 250111e-mail: [email protected]: www.museumofwitchcraft.com

The Museum of Witchcraft in Boscastle houses the world’s

largest collection of witchcraft related artefacts and regalia.

The museum has been located in Boscastle for over forty years

and despite severe damage in recent floods, it remains one of

Cornwall’s most popular museums.

The fascinating displays cover all aspects of witchcraft and include Divination, Sea Witchcraft,

Spells and Charms, Modern Witchcraft, Herbs & Healing, Ritual Magic, Satanism and Hare &

Shapeshifting

One exhibit features the burial of Joan Wytte who was born in Bodmin, Cornwall, in 1775 and died

of bronchial pneumonia in Bodmin Jail in 1813. She was a renowned clairvoyant and healer but

became aggressive and impatient due to an untreated abscess in her tooth and people came to

believe she was possessed by the devil. She became known as ‘The Fighting Fairy Woman’ and was

imprisoned for Grievous Bodily Harm.

Her skeleton came into the possession of the Museum of Witchcraft and was exhibited there for

many years. When Graham took over 8 years ago he and the museum team believed she deserved a

proper burial and Joan was finally laid to rest in 1998.

Among the other artefacts to be seen here are an amazing collection of figures and dolls, carved

plates and stones, jewellery, cauldrons, weapons and unpleasant devices used for extracting

confessions! A stair lift is available for those with limited mobility.

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HENTERVENE HOLIDAY PARKCrackington Haven, Bude, Cornwall EX23 0LFTel: 01840 230365 Fax: 01840 230065e-mail: [email protected]: www.hentervene.co.uk

Hentervene Holiday Park is a sheltered, peaceful family park on

the stunning North Cornish coastline. It offers the perfect

environment for the perfect holiday. Whether you choose to stay in

one of its modern caravans or a luxury lodge, Hentervene has

everything you need. It offers peace and tranquillity for that stress

free, relaxing holiday, confident in the knowledge that all facilities

are clean and well maintained for a safe, family friendly

environment.

The lodges come equipped with all modern cons, full central

heating, flat screen TVs and outdoor decking for sunbathing and al

fresco dining in the summertime. Each one is carefully decorated

with a contemporary twist to emphasise that luxury feel. All

caravans are also developed to high specifications and all

conveniences, catering for all ages.

There’s plenty to do on site with ten acres of glorious, unspoilt

countryside to explore at leisure. Just a short distance away is

Crackington Haven, renowned for its award winning beach – bursting with rock pools for discovery,

plenty of surf for water babies and life guards on duty throughout high season for peace of mind.

And with the rest of Devon and Cornwall at your feet, Hentervene has so much to offer.

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JAMAICA INN ANDMUSEUMS

Bolventor, Launceston, Cornwall PL15 7TSTel: 01566 86250 Fax: 01566 86177e-mail: [email protected]: www.jamaicainn.co.uk

Built in the mid 18th century to serve travellers

making the journey on the new turnpike road

between Launceston and Bodmin, Jamaica Inn has

become one of the best known hostelries in the country if not the world thanks to novelist Daphne

du Maurier. Whilst staying here in the 1920s, she was taken with the romance of the surrounding

bleak moorland and fascinated by tales of smugglers and villains who met here.

Today, the inn still serves travellers who can enjoy a drink in the Smugglers bar, dinner in the du

Maurier Restaurant or relax by a roaring log fire before retiring to one of the inn’s comfortable guest

rooms. However, there is much more here than an atmospheric, 300 year old inn. Tales of smugglers

and the arch villain, Demon Davey, vicar of Altarnun, are told through a theatrical presentation at

the Smugglers at Jamaica Inn exhibition whilst more can be learnt of Daphne herself in the Daphne

du Maurier Room. Many of her novels are based in Cornwall where she came to live with her husband

in the 1930s and the room here is filled with memorabilia including her Sheraton writing desk.

Finally, there is Mr Potter’s Museum of Curiosity, a fascinating collection of tableaux created by

the Victorian taxidermist, Walter Potter. Visitors can see Steptoe and Son’s bear and Walter’s first

tableau, the Death and Burial of Cock Robin, along with smoking memorabilia, Victorian toys and

dolls’ houses and some curious oddities.

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THE WHITE HORSE INN14 Newport Square, Launceston, Cornwall PL15 8ELTel: 01566 772084e-mail: [email protected]: www.whitehorselaunceston.co.uk

Located in one of Cornwall’s most pleasant inland towns, The White Horse Inn is full of character

and a good example of a former carriage inn. Built in 1690, its olde world charm, complete with

stone floors and large fireplace, adds to the atmosphere and warmth of the place.

Being situated in the ancient

capital of Cornwall, one only needs to

take a short stroll through the Town’s

narrow streets to see buildings of all

styles and ages, from Tudor to

Georgian to Gothic Victorian. In fact,

the inn is so proud of its town and

heritage that it displays a wonderfully

nostalgic collection of old picture

postcards, from around the town,

framed in the bar area.

Hostess Lucy Collins maintains a

relaxed, happy atmosphere ensuring a

welcoming inn for all that is well

attended by locals and visitors alike.

And it’s not only the warm welcome

and fine ales that keeps the patrons

returning time and time again, the

White Horse is also known for its

excellent food which is served daily

between 12pm - 2 pm and again

between 6.30 pm and 9.00 pm.

There’s an extensive main menu on

offer along with a daily special’s

board. A popular Sunday lunch is

served every week and booking is

advised.

The inn offers comfortable B&B

accommodation with four well-

appointed rooms available, all with TV

and tea/coffee making facilities.

There’s one en-suite double bedroom

and three other bedrooms (a double,

twin and single) with a separate

shower room and bathroom. It is an

excellent base for exploring the area,

which is surrounded by moorland,

being on the eastern edge of Bodmin

Moor. This is also the reason why the

area is so popular with tourists.

Guests of the White Horse are

welcomed to use their large car park

situated at the rear of the pub.

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THE WEAVERSHoney Street, Bodmin,Cornwall PL31 2DLTel: 01208 74511Fax: 01208 79806

Formerly a wine bar, The Weavers has

been a fully-fledged public house, with

this name since the 1970’s. Situated in

the centre of Bodmin, the building is

located in Honey Street and is simply

charming. Bright white in colour with

black woodwork, the building is eye

catching and has an element of mystery.

Tenants Carol and David have worked

here for nearly 6 years. Previously

working as managers of The Weavers,

they took over the tenancy in July 08.

Great food is prepared and served here

by the tenants’ son Dean, who is a very

talented Chef. There is an extensive

menu available with plenty of delicious

meals. Steak and ‘Tribute’ pie, Cornish

gammon ham, egg and chips, nachos

with chilli beef and a succulent rump

steak is just a snap shot of the menu.

There’s always a Pie of the Day on the

specials board. There are plenty of

fantastic side orders as well as light bites

and a Children’s menu available, making

this public house suitable for people of

all ages.

Serving three real ales, IPA, Tribute

and Proper Job daily, the business is

popular with locals and visitors alike.

There is a smoking area which is partially

covered and dogs are welcome. A warm

welcome is 100% guaranteed when

visiting this fantastic Pub.

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BODMIN & WENFORD RAILWAYBodmin General Station, Bodmin, Cornwall PL31 1AQTel: 0845 125 9678 Fax: 01208 77963e-mail: [email protected]: www.bodminandwenfordrailway.co.uk

Discover the excitement and

nostalgia of steam travel with a

journey back in time on the Bodmin

& Wenford Railway, Cornwall’s only

full size railway still regularly

operated by steam locomotives.

Relax in style and enjoy a

leisurely 13 mile round trip through

beautiful countryside, taking in the

sights, sounds and smells of a

bygone age, as the era of a Cornish

branch line in the 1950s reveals

itself during the course of your

journey.

Trains operate from Bodmin

General, the line’s main station

where free coach and car parking

is available, to both Bodmin

Parkway station – where

connections can be made directly

with main line railway services –

and Boscarne Junction, which is

situated directly adjacent to the

Camel Trail recreational footpath

and cycle way.

Passenger train services operate

through the year, and run daily from

late May to early October.

There is a Buffet at both Bodmin

General and Bodmin Parkway

stations, and most services have a

Buffet and Bar on board the train. There is also a souvenir shop at Bodmin General.

Special events are also held throughout the year - Steam and Diesel Galas, Steaming Thru the 40s

and several family-orientated events, including an Easter Egg-stravaganza and the visit of both

Postman Pat and Paddington Bear to Bodmin!

The Railway also operates a number of steam-hauled special trains through the season – including

‘Murder Mystery Evening Specials’, ‘Steam Beer & Jazz’ trains, a Luxury Dining Train and, during

December, our very popular Santa by Steam specials.

The Bodmin & Wenford Railway looks forward to welcoming you. Come and discover Cornwall’s

railway heritage at its very best – a great family attraction!

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PENLAN EATING HOUSEFourwinds, A30 Bodmin-By-Pass, Bodmin, Cornwall PL30 4HHTel: 01208 821538Afterhours: 01208 77410e-mail: [email protected]: www.eatatpenlan.vpweb.co.uk

Visitors to Penlan Eating House are in for a real treat. This delightful venue, situated adjacent to

the A30 Bodmin By Pass at Fourwinds, is not just a roadside cafe by day but a warm and cosy evening

restaurant with a charming

atmosphere. Owned by Lesley

Noyce for the past two years,

who together with her team of

dedicated staff believe that

customers needs are of the

utmost importance and do their

best to ensure those needs are

met. This is confirmed by the

number of repeat visitors and

referrals that return frequently.

Penlan Eating House is the

perfect destination for a night

out, whether an intimate dinner

for two or a large group celebration and all customers are

highly valued.

The popular cafe seats 40 and is open during the winter

months Mon-Fri 8am-2.30pm, Sat 8am-2pm and Sun 9-11.30am.

In the summer the cafe is open Mon-Sat 7am-4.30pm and Sun

8am-3pm.

The licensed restaurant seats 24 and in the winter is open

for bookings Fri-Sat 6.30pm-10pm and Sun 12-3.30pm. During

the summer the opening hours are extended to Tues-Sat 6.30pm-

10pm and Sun 12-3pm. Visitors to both the cafe and the

restaurant can be assured of quality service and attentive staff

as well as delicious home cooked food at reasonable prices.

The excellent evening menu will surprise yet delight guests

with fabulous starters such as New Zealand Green Lipped

Mussels in a garlic cream sauce and Baked seafood cobbler-

haddock, salmon and prawns in a white wine, leek and

mushroom sauce topped with cheese crumb. Succulent main

courses include Surf and Turf - 8oz sirloin steak topped with

garlic prawns served with mushrooms, onion rings and peas,

salmon Steak topped with hollandaise sauce and curry of the

day served on a bed of rice or chips with poppudum and naan

bread. The vegetarian options include the mouth watering

green pepper filled with broccoli and brie, topped with a

creamy Mornay sauce and a cheese and herb Brea crumb

topping.

The daily specials board complements the main menu and a

childrens’ menu is available too. On special occasions like

Mother’s Day etc, bookings are taken for great value set meals

with all details on client’s website. With many good offers on

the various menus this is a venue not to be missed!

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COTEHELE HOUSESt Dominick, nr Saltash, Cornwall PL12 6TATel: 01579 351346e-mail: [email protected]: www.nationaltrust.org.uk

At the heart of this riverside estate sits the granite and slatestone house of

Cotehele, built mainly between 1485 and 1627 and a home of the Edgcumbe

family for centuries. Intimate chambers feature large Tudor fireplaces and

rich hangings. Outside, the formal gardens overlook the richly planted valley

garden below, with medieval dovecote, stewpond and Victorian summer house. At the Quay

interesting old buildings house the Edgcumbe Arms tea-room and an outstation of the National

Maritime Museum. The restored sailing barge Shamrock is moored alongside.

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SHEVIOCK BARTONBED & BREAKFAST

Sheviock, Torpoint, Cornwall PL11 3EHTel: 01503 230793e-mail: [email protected]: www.sheviockbarton.co.uk

Sheviock Barton is situated in the centre of the small unspoiled

village of Sheviock , directly opposite the 13th century church. It

reputedly stands on the site of the earlier medieval manor house of

Sheviock. The current 300 year-old house has been totally but

sympathetically restored, with full central heating. All around there

are large gardens and grounds, with masses of parking and an

adjoining paddock.

Full English breakfast is served in the large farmhouse kitchen,

with oak beams, flagstone floors and 4-oven AGA, and a wide

selection of tea & coffee is always available in the hall. The

accommodation comprises four guest bedrooms each with TV; an

en-suite family room, two en-suite double rooms (one downstairs)

and a twin room with private bathroom. Guests have their own

relaxing sitting room with flagstone floor, Farrow & Ball Library Red

walls contrasting with heavy calico curtains, off-white sofas and

church candles. Attentive host Carol, likes to offer the home-from-

home approach and, with the “secret key” guests can come and go

as they please.

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ST JOHN INNSt John, nr Antony, Torpoint, Cornwall PL11 3AWTel: 01752 822280e-mail: [email protected]

“Hidden in the leafy folds of a valley

between Torpoint and Millbrook, the tiny

village of St John is a delight to discover.

Even more of a discovery is its 16th century

Inn, with pretty and unexpectedly large

gardens.”

The Cornish Times.

The family run St John Inn sits at the heart

of the village close to St Johns Lake once

renowned for its smuggling activities but

now enjoying a ‘special habitat’ designation

for wildlife. Originally a 16th century inn

this venue now offers traditional cask ales

and is rightly proud of the good value,

quality food which is served in relaxed

surroundings. The decor is traditional, in

keeping with the age of the building and

there is a cosy snug area upstairs with comfy

sofas and chairs.

It is one of the few remaining pubs that

has retained its traditional charm, creating a

warm and friendly atmosphere which

welcomes locals and visitors alike to enjoy

some excellent food from a varied and

frequently changing main menu. You can

rest assured that the only frozen food here is

the ice-cream! Alongside the delicious

cuisine St John’s offer a good range of quality wines to complement your meal. At the bar you can

choose a pint including a good selection of quality cask ales.

The St John Inn has very welcoming and helpful staff who are here to make your visit an

enjoyable one. The clientele is a mixed age group and children are made very welcome, there is

even a large climbing frame for them to enjoy in the spacious beer garden.

A lovely home made meal in this old pub with surroundings of wooden beams and stone flooring is

so relaxing - you really will enjoy your visit here.

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WRINGFORD DOWNForder, Rame, Cawsand, Cornwall PL10 1LETel: 01752 822287e-mail: [email protected]: www.wringford.co.uk

Making its home on the Rame Peninsula only a 15minute walk

from Whitsand Bay, is a very special find indeed. Set within 4

acres of grounds, Wringford Down offers both self-catering and

bed and breakfast accommodation for the whole family.

Sue and Andrew along with their four children, have created

a ‘home away from home’, offering guests the highest levels of

comfort along with plenty of things to keep the family

entertained.

The bed and breakfast accommodation comprises seven suites

- a standard double, a standard twin, a king sized double, & four

two bedroom suites. Each room has an en-suite along with all the

much needed necessities to make sure your stay is an enjoyable one.

Evening meals are available on certain nights, and are all home cooked using fresh local produce.

There is a resident only bar which offers an ideal place to relax of an evening.

For those looking for self-catering accommodation, there are three well appointed cottages and 2

spacious caravans, please check the website for individual details. Within the grounds, there is an

indoor pool and a smaller paddling pool, kept at a warm 28 degrees. The pool is open from just

before Easter until the end of September.

Children of all ages are welcome, as are well behaved pets.

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HAY LAKE FARMLandrake, Saltash, Cornwall PL12 5AETel: 01752 851209 / 07989 426306e-mail: [email protected]: www.haylakefarm.co.uk

Nestled in a tranquil setting with spectacular views of the

surrounding countryside , Hay Lake Farm offers comfortable,

modern bed and breakfast accommodation with unbeatable

hospitality.

Your welcoming host Diana, has created a fantastic setting

in which to relax for a few days, or stay overnight and enjoy a

break from a journey.

The comfortable accommodation comprises one double

bedroom and two family bedrooms, all of which have spacious

en-suite bathrooms. Tea and coffee making facilities are

provided in each of the bedrooms allowing guests to start the

day off with a morning hot drink. Another great way to start

the day is Diana’s famous Cornish breakfast, created using

home produced sausages, bacon and eggs. The breakfast is included in the tariff and is sure to

impress. Children are very welcome and there is a travel cot available on request.

Hay Lake is a small holding, and has horses, sheep, pigs, goats, hens and ducks, making it a

perfect choice for animal/nature loving guests. For those who enjoy walking or cycling there are

miles of lanes and footpaths in the area that offer an ever changing scenery of hedgerows and wildlife

throughout the year.

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TRENETHICK FARMHOUSE B&BTrerulefoot, Saltash, Cornwall PL12 5DDTel: 01503 240 215e-mail: [email protected]: www.trenethick-farmhouse.co.uk

Trenethick, formerly part of Coldrenick Estate,

is an organic beef and arable farm that has been

farmed by the Carpenter family for 250 years.

Many changes over the years have seen John

Carpenter and his wife Amanda farming

organically, diversifying in to horse livery and

now opening up the Trenethick Farmhouse B&B

to provide organic bed and breakfast

accommodation in every sense of the word.

Between beautiful moorland and spectacular

coastline, Trenethick Farmhouse B&B promises a

real farmhouse stay. Their organic ethos spread

throughout the farm and continued all the way

through to the spacious and tastefully decorated

rooms, each with ensuite shower room or

private bathroom. It’s so prevalent a theme that

even the cleaning products are eco-friendly and

the towels and bedding are organic. The

furnishings are an eclectic mix of antique,

refurbished and occasional new pieces all

purchased locally or given by neighbours and

friends. The gentle colours on the walls are

from the eco-friendly Farrow & Ball range of

paints. Splashes of colour and art are provided

by Amanda’s paintings, sculpture and soft

furnishings, so there’s lots to look at and

textures to touch.

Also, making good on their promise of a ‘real

farmhouse stay’, the traditional breakfasts are

cooked for guests on the four-oven range in the

farm kitchen. It’s not surprising too that the full

English breakfast contains only organic and/or,

when not available, locally sourced ingredients.

Special diets can be catered for – simply inform

John or Amanda.

Having strong equestrian links, John and

Amanda wanted your horses to be welcome at

Trenethick too. They can provide anything from

grazing only to full board and lodgings for your

equine companion.

Throughout the winter season, Trenethick

will continue to offer hunting livery to enable

those enthusiasts among you to sample the

stunning Cornish and Devonshire countryside.

Whether for a well earned organic break or for some dedicated together time, Trenethick have

packages to suit everyone’s requirements.

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KELLY’S OF LOOEFore Street, East Looe,Cornwall PL13 1DTTel: 01503 26302Fax: 01503 263381e-mail: [email protected]

Looe has been a fishing and seafaring port since at

least as far back as the 13th century, and is still the

second largest fishing port in Cornwall. Fish auctions

are held regularly at East Looe’s quayside market,

and the town hosts an annual sea angling festival

and a number of sailing events to keep visitors busy.

The sea and its precious harvest remain at the heart

of life here, and when it comes to considering fish

as food, Kelly’s of Looe definitely rules the waves.

Friendly owners Pete and Tina Roberts have

been at the helm of Kelly’s for over thirty years,

and continue to welcome familiar and unfamiliar

faces to their much-loved restaurant. With the

assistance of their hard-working and attentive staff

Kelly’s has not only earned its reputation as one of

the best fish restaurants in the South West but has

also been rated 4 star by ‘Sea Fishing Industry

Awards.’

It stands on a prime location close to the quay,

and if you choose to dine upstairs you will be lucky

enough to enjoy the view of the historic bridge that

links East and West Looe. The mainstay of the

delicious menu is naturally the fish - the best cod,

haddock and plaice, cooked in Kelly’s own-recipe

batter or grilled, and served with excellent chips.

Other fishy delights include scampi, whitebait and

homemade fish cakes, but meat-eaters are equally

well catered for at this popular eatery. The fresh

pies are extremely tempting and are all home

cooked.

The homemade desserts offer the perfect way to

round off a meal, and the homemade strawberry

Pavlova is so scrumptious that it serves over two

hundred portions a day in peak season!

For those who are looking for something to take

away and enjoy whilst wondering around the pretty

harbour, Kelly’s homemade ice-cream provides the

perfect indulgence. Breakfast from toast to full

English is available from 8am till 11.30am for those

who are looking to make the most of the day.

Kelly’s is very popular with families and there is a separate menu just for the kids. A pensioners’

special lunch is also offered every week, all year round. High chairs and baby changing facilities are

also provided. Open from 8am - 10pm (winter 9am - 3pm) and a full takeaway is served from 11. A

visit to Looe is not complete without a trip to the renowned Kelly’s.

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DAISY’S CAFECastle Street, East Looe, Cornwall PL13 1BATel: 07988 803315

Daisy’s Café is the sort of café that practically beckons

you inside, with the promise of the “most amazing

homemade cakes”. It’s the sort of café where families,

dogs and muddy boots are all welcome.

The café was established over three years ago by a

young and likeable couple, Simon and Fay. And “was

named after Nan Daisy who used to always take me to the

seaside in Devon and Cornwall at least 4 times a year”,

explained Fay. We’re confident that Nan Daisy would be

extremely proud of what they have achieved here, locals

and visitors alike flock here for their exceptional home

cooking. There is also Daisy’s Little Urchin menu for

children and gluten free pasties and rock cakes.

It’s not surprising too that ‘daisy’s’ are featured heavily

within the interior; there are even fun daisy shaped

scones!

Daisy’s is a good starting point to fuel up before

embarking upon the South West Coast Path. After Looe, the path passes through the village of

Millendreath and opens up again on Bodigga cliffs, where the views open out to the Path ahead and

Rame Head in the distance.

No credit cards, shells or pebbles. Payments in cash only.

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TOM SAWYERS TAVERNMarine Drive, Hannafore, West Looe,Cornwall PL13 2DQTel: 01503 262782e-mail: [email protected]: www.tomsawyers.co.uk

With breathtaking, panoramic views across Looe Bay and St

George’s Island, the popular Tom Sawyers Inn has it all.

The spacious and stylish restaurant provides the prefect

setting to enjoy a tasty meal or a satisfying drink. The fine

cuisine is created using fresh local produce, accompany this with

picturesque views out across the water and guests can be assured

of a unique dining experience. The full and varied menu means

visitors are spoilt for choice and a carvery is added to the options

on Sunday.

With a relaxed atmosphere, the well stocked bar is a great place to enjoy a catch-up with friends

over a refreshing beverage. There is a terrace with superb views and a covered headed smoking

shelter.

However, the fine food, real ales and unbeatable views aren’t the only things that attract visitors

to this family run inn. The Tom Sawyers Tavern also provides two stunning, high quality letting rooms

with sea views, large flat screen TVs, tea and coffee making facilities and a hearty Cornish breakfast

which is included in the tariff. The inn offers an ideal base for those wishing to explore local

attractions; The Monkey Sanctuary, Hannafore Beach, Boat Trips/Fishing Trips and East Looe Beach are

all close by.

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POLRAEN COUNTRY HOUSESandplace, Looe, Cornwall PL13 1PJTel: 001503 263956e-mail: [email protected]: www.polraen.co.uk

Nestling peacefully in the picturesque Looe River

Valley just 5 minutes from the seaside town of Looe,

is the charming Polraen Country House Hotel. With

easy access to both a convenient bus and the Looe

Valley Line train service, guests are able to explore

Looe, Polperro, Liskeard and beyond without the

need to use a car, while Polraen’s ample car park

makes it an ideal touring base.

The 18th century hotel is owned and run by the Bridges family, on hand to make sure your stay is

as enjoyable as possible. Guests can choose between double, superking/twin or family rooms all of

which are ensuite, equipped with TV, hair dryer, WiFi access and tea and coffee making facilities and

stylishly decorated to reflect the charm of this historic house. The comfort is second to none with a

guest lounge, bar and dining conservatory looking out on beautiful gardens.

Breakfast and dinner are created using locally sourced Cornish produce including fish from Looe

Quay, with all dishes individually prepared and home-made. Evening dinner is available at Polraen

from 7pm Mon-Fri (March to October) and Sunday lunch is available November to April.

The hotel has been awarded the following accolades: AA 4 Star Guest Accommodation 2011,

AA Breakfast and Dinner Awards 2011, Green Acorn Award for Sustainable Tourism,

Caradon in Bloom Best Large Garden 2010, Finalist AA Landlady of the Year Award 2006.

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WINDERMERE HOUSESt Martins, Looe, Cornwall PL13 1NXTel: 01503 262035e-mail: [email protected]: www.windermerehouse.co.uk

Alun and Zelia Crockett welcome you to Windermere House, an award winning, three star luxury

bed and breakfast holiday accommodation. Nestled in peaceful countryside overlooking superb views

of rural pastures leading down to the sea, which is an easy 20-30 minutes walk away.

The guest house is a good base for touring Cornwall and such places as the historic fishing ports

of Looe and Polperro, Eden Project, China Clay Museum, Aquariums, Zoos, National Trust & English

Heritage properties, coastal path walks, sandy beaches, rolling countryside, plus much more.

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OLD LANWARNICKOld Lanwarnick, Duloe, nr Liskeard, Cornwall PL14 4QFTel: 01503 221003 Mob: 07889 298642e-mail: [email protected]: http://www.listedluxury.co.uk

Featured on TV’s Discovery Real Time and given the coveted

5 Star, Gold Standard Award by Quality in Tourism

and voted in the Top 50 Coolest Cottages by The Sunday Times.

Old Lanwarnick, a five star, Gold award winning, luxury holiday hamlet, was developed by owner

Joanna Somerset-Wood and her partner Mike Harvey from a cluster of derelict farm buildings in a

small hamlet recorded in the Domesday Book nearly 1,000 years ago. “Old Lanwarnick has a real

sense of time and place and part of the reward for the hard work we have all put in, is the

knowledge that it has been saved for future generations.”- says Joanna.

With over 1000 years of history on site, this is a place where the beauty, mystery and the

ancient history of Cornwall meets contemporary, luxury living. All the barns at Old Lanwarnick

have been thoughtfully and tastefully decorated, incorporating a blend of modern and homely,

resulting in a stylish, comfortable ‘home from home’ for

your holiday. The walls are adorned with stunning, original,

oil paintings, many by Jessica Hill (an equine artist from the

South West) and there are wonderful pieces of sculpture and

craft dotted around.

Guests are welcome, by prior arrangement, to bring their

dogs or horses on holiday, free of charge. Horses have

excellent stabling and turnout facilities along with great off

road accompanied hacking and posh picnic rides (for an

additional charge.)

Joanna and Mike offer free use of the hot tub barn and

mini gym, a welcome basket of local produce, long robes

and slippers, plus many optional extras; champagne

breakfast ‘to the door’, clay pigeon shooting, beauty

therapies, theming of the living area for special occasions

and a personal chef for larger groups. There are several off-

site activities that Joanna is also able to organise including;

polo lessons, 4x4 off-roading, surfing lessons, rock climbing,

boat trips, sea & river fishing, Daphne Du Maurier walks,

helicopter flights and kayaking.

Set in an ‘area of outstanding natural landscape’ in South

East Cornwall, Old Lanwarnick is an ideal base for any holiday

with easy access to Plymouth and to numerous picturesque

Cornish fishing villages such as Polperro and Fowey, which

offers many restaurants, cafes and chic shops, along with

the more traditional ones. There are also many National

Trust properties in the area to visit, plus numerous

attractions all within easy reach, including but not limited to;

The Eden Project, The Lost Gardens of Heligan, Carnglaze

Caverns and The Camel Trail. An undeniable advantage of Old

Lanwarnick’s location is its complete tranquillity. As you sit

late into the evening, you will hear only birdsong, certainly

none of the high season bustle of the more well known

Cornish resorts - an ideal way to get away from it all and

unwind, especially for those wanting a quiet relaxing break.

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CORNISH QUAY HOLIDAYSMorcom Court, Windsor Place, Liskeard, Cornwall PL14 4BHTel: 01579 344667e-mail: [email protected]: www.cornquay.com

Cornish Quay Holidays offers over fifty wonderful, waterside and country self-catering holiday

properties throughout Fowey and Polruan areas in Cornwall at any time of year. Many of the cottages

available have stunning sea or harbour views, meaning that the homes are perfect for peaceful

getaways.

The general Fowey area is surrounded by beautiful scenery and is renowned for the stunning

coastal walks and secluded coves that are

visited by many tourists and locals every

year. The vicinity has numerous shops and

plenty of places to enjoy a good meal or two

in the evenings. Perfect for couples and

families, the top quality properties will serve

to your every need. Children are welcome at

all bar a few of the locations and some even

accept pets, enabling you to treat the

properties like your own home.

The beautiful cottages and waterside

houses sleep from between 2 and 10 people

and have from 1 to 5 bedrooms. The majority

of the properties are surrounded by superb

hamlets or gardens, creating a wonderful

setting for your holiday. All homes are

decorated to a tremendous standard and you

will not be left disappointed. Thoroughly

charming are the country cottages, with

their roaring fires and open beamed ceilings,

the boathouse with the ‘flying bridge’

window cantilevered over the water and the

old coach house with a cobbled courtyard

and complimentary bottle of wine. All of the

locations available to rent for a UK holiday or

short break away from the hustle and bustle

of every day life are with out a doubt, 100%

worth visiting. Each cottage has its own

charm and character and has something

different to offer their visitors. It is really

recommended to contact this business and

request a brochure so you can read up on the

individual locations.

The prices vary depending on the time of

year and the property and start from £230

per week. Weekly bookings start on a Friday

or Saturday and short breaks are available

outside of the main holiday periods. Prices

are inclusive of heating, electricity and bed

linen. Booking with Cornish Quay Holidays is

definitely money well spent and it is assured

that you will have a wonderful holiday.

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THE HIGHWAYMANDobwalls, Liskeard, Cornwall PL14 6JDTel: 01579 320114 Fax: 01579 320479e-mail: [email protected]: www.thehighwayman.org.uk

The fantastic Highwayman pulls locals and visitors in like a magnet, to enjoy quality Cornish

hospitality, well kept ales and superb food. Located in the centre of Dobwalls on the old A38, which

is now by passed, the property is an old stone building, built in the 18th Century and a former

farmhouse. Converted in to a pub

in 1962, for years, locals and

visitors have been enjoying what

the Highwayman has to offer. 18

months ago, locals Mac and Zoe

took over as tenants of this public

house and since they have been in

charge, the business has gone from

strength to strength. Once visiting

this property, you will definitely

return again and again.

The property has steps and

potted plants leading up to the

front of the public house and has a

sheltered veranda at the front of

the building, with outside seating.

There is an olde worlde interior used here, with

exposed brickwork, which is very rustic,

wooden panelling and natural beams. This

décor is complimented by up to date facilities.

Parts of the property are light and airy, with

adjacent dimmer and intimate areas.

The prices are very reasonable and

definitely don’t break the bank. Very good

dishes are the mixed grill, steaks and the

international dishes including superb curries,

which are very popular. The Sunday Lunch is

also extremely popular and at £4.95 a head it is

not hard to see why. There is a choice of meats

and three seasonal vegetables, which can be

enjoyed every Sunday throughout the day.

There is an early bird special menu between 5

and 7pm- cutting the prices once again.

Open 7 days a week, the Highwayman

serves real ales daily, which are all kept in tip

top condition. Regular ales are Betty Stogs and

tribute, with a rotating guest ale, which is just

as good as the regulars. The quality food is

served daily between 12-2.30pm and 6-9pm. On

top of all of the fabulous food, a vast array of

differing types of entertainment is available

each weekend, some are evenings for karaoke

and there is also live music by some well-known

names playing throughout the year.

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BRIDGE ON WOOLThe Platt, Wadebridge, Cornwall PL27 7AQTel: 01208 812750e-mail: [email protected]: www.bridgeonwool.co.uk

The Bridge On Wool public house and bed and breakfast is located in the popular area of

Wadebridge. Once thought to be built on a foundation of wool, the building and surrounding areas

have plenty of history waiting to be discovered. The building is traditional and oozes character,

making it a fabulous setting to enjoy great food and drink as well as great quality accommodation.

Sara and Tom have been the leaseholders here for the last two years and although being their

first business of this kind, Sara has over 20 years

experience in the licensing trade. Her

experience shows, as the property is very

popular with both locals and visitors travelling

from all around the country. The hospitality

exuded by the couple ensure a pleasant and

warm welcome to those wishing to stay for a

long weekend or those visiting for a top quality

meal at very reasonable prices.

Sara heads the kitchen here and prepares

speciality homemade dishes. Local produce is

used to create mouth-watering meals of

homemade chilli con carne, fisherman’s pie and

cheddar and tomato chutney tart during the day

as well as garlic king prawns, steak and

Guinness pie, pan-fried citrus salmon and

mushroom stroganoff, which is served from 5pm

onwards. There is also a selection of light bites

such as jacket potatoes and sandwiches as well

as a dedicated children’s menu, including all of

their favourites for just £3.95. For the

grownups, this can all be finished off with one

of the 3 real ales served, sharps eden, skinners

betty stogs and one rotating guest ale.

At the Bridge On Wool there are 3 ensuite

bedrooms upstairs, decorated to an excellent

standard. Theses rooms can be on either a

double or twin basis and are available all year

round for a competitive price. The cost per

night includes a tremendous breakfast, which is

served all day in the downstairs public house,

including the full monty English, scrambled or

poached egg on toast, bacon or sausage

sandwich and many more.

With entertainment available, the public

house and bed and breakfast is suitable for

everyone. On Wednesdays, Fridays and

Saturdays there is live music playing, with

differing styles and on the second Wednesday of

every month there is karaoke, which is always

entertaining, creating a pleasant and sociable

atmosphere.

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BLUETOMATORock, Cornwall PL27 6LDTel: 01208 863841e-mail: [email protected]: www.bluetomatocafe.com

bluetomato proudly proclaims that it’s the only café in

Rock, living up to that status well. It commands stunning sea

views out across the estuary, with the idyllic north Cornish

town of Padstow just visible across the water. A handy water

ferry takes passengers to and from Padstow where, like Rock

there is much to see and do. Rock has the advantage of

being slightly quieter during the summer months, offering a

more peaceful respite for holidaymakers and locals alike.

bluetomato is perhaps best known for its food,

especially the homemade gourmet burger. It focuses on

serving quality food with real attention to detail with the

presentation. Each dish is cooked fresh to order using the

best in local produce.

Up to noon, guests can choose from full English or

Cornish breakfasts or go posh with smoked salmon and

scrambled eggs, pancakes or chunky roasted vegetable

omelettes. From noon onwards a host of daily specials hit

the blackboards, such as bouillabaisse, seabass fillets with

babaganoush, feta and chick pea salad, Port Isaac lobster

thermidore, with other fabulous sharers and light lunches

also vying for attention. Why not tuck into some chilli beef

nachos for two, or indulge in a sharing platter of tomato and

buffalo mozzarella brushetta. Or for a taste of the sea order

garlic cream and Porthilly mussels, a Cornish smoked fish

salad or a traditional Cornish crab sandwich. Other

favourites include avocado, bacon and Cornish blue cheese

sandwich, watermelon and feta salad, and pesto linguini

fresh from the kitchen. If you’re just looking for a cup of

coffee and something sweet however, bluetomato also

offers an excellent array of homemade cakes and sweet or

savoury scones throughout the day.

In the summer months up to 100 guests can sit outside in

the lazy afternoon sunshine on the bluetomato’s covered

terrace area, which takes the eye far across the water.

Inside, the café is equally as spacious, with light and airy

décor and architecture complimenting its enviable position.

Lean back and relax on designer scatter cushions with funky

art on the walls to admire.

The café is owned and run by Marc Dingle, whose

passion for both the place and the business shines through.

He has a wealth of experience in the hotel industry,

previously owning various hostelries in the area. All are

welcome especially dogs and children,of which the latter

have their own food and games menu, ranging from board

games to personal dvd players. The bluetomato is open 9am-

5pm april-nov, although during school holidays and summer

(mid june-mid sept) bluetomato is open for evening dining,

Bookings highly recommended.

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THE CORNISH ARMSPendoggett, Port Isaac, Cornwall PL30 3HHTel: 01208 880263e-mail: [email protected]: www.cornisharms.com

The Cornish Arms at Pendoggett is situated just 3 miles by car or a 40 minute walk from the

beautiful, coastal village of Port Isaac, which is famous for the filming of “Doc Martin“ the popular

ITV drama series. The character Doc Martin originated from the 2000 Movie Saving Grace. Many of

the interior scenes for this were filmed here at The Cornish Arms.

This traditional English pub with cosy bars,

open fires and original wooden beams offers first

class accommodation and excellent traditional

English fayre. As well as a superb authentic Thai

menu, cooked by Thai Chef, Dang. Thai food is

served every lunchtime and dinner except Sunday

and Monday. A Thai Banquet is held on the last

Thursday of every month (booking essential) and

there’s also a mouth watering Thai and Fish &

chips take away menu. And let’s not forget, the

Sunday roast lunch which is a particular favourite.

All ingredients are sourced locally whenever

possible. Fish is mainly caught off the Cornish

coast, some meat from Trevarthans butchers, and

Tregorden farm near Wadebridge supplies free

range Pork and homemade sausages.

There is a beautiful large beer garden where

you can relax in the summer months and enjoy a

cold glass of real ale and the scenic views.

Not only is the food a memorable experience

at the Cornish Arms, staying here is also

enjoyable and the staff promise to do all that

they can to make your stay special.

All 8 letting rooms including 2 family rooms

and a flat are comfortably and tastefully

decorated with en suite facilities and TV. Plus, a

hearty Cornish breakfast is included in the price

and pets are welcome (please contact for details).

There are many local attractions to visit

including the picturesque village of Port Isaac,

the Camel Trail and Padstow, the home of “Rick

Stein” and his famous fish restaurant and 40 mins

from the Eden Project.

In all, you could not want for a more

enjoyable place to stay, with great food, superb

accommodation, plenty to see and do and the

warmest Cornish hospitality around.

So if you want to get away from it all and

discover the beautiful Cornish coastline, whether

it’s for a family holiday, a romantic break or just

a relaxing change of scenery then The Cornish

Arms at Pendoggett is the place for you!

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THE LONDON INN6-8 Lanadwell Street, Padstow, Cornwall PL28 8ANTel: 01841 532554e-mail: [email protected]: www.padstowlondoninn.co.uk

A warm welcome is offered to all at the London Inn by its

proprietors Tim and Lisa. Just a minute’s walk from the quaint

harbour at the popular seaside town of Padstow, the inn is easily

accessible to visitors new and old, who fall in love with the inn’s

charm and character.

Like many traditional Cornish inns, the London inn was

originally built for another purpose. In 1803 after being built it

took its name from the local sloop and became home to three

fishermen who resided in it in cottage form. The cottages were

later knocked through to accommodate the inn, which now houses

a charming red wood panelled bar, bedecked with various fishing

and seafaring memorabilia from its earlier life. Guests can choose

from a wide range of wines and spirits, alongside some good old fashioned Cornish real ale and cider,

which have recently attained Casque Marque status.

Food is available daily at the inn, cooked up from a menu that comprises an excellent array of

local fish and meat dishes which can either be eaten in the cosy bar or in the Wheel House

restaurant which can seat up to twenty four people for dinner or a private party. A traditional Sunday

lunch is on offer each weekend. Tim and Lisa endeavour to support their local community by using

local suppliers for all of their fresh meat, fish and vegetables.Two bed and breakfast rooms are also

available which offer comfortable accommodation, in the heart of Padstow.

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THE GOLDEN LION PUB19 Lanadwell Street, Padstow, Cornwall PL28 8ANTel: 01841 532797e-mail: [email protected]: www.goldenlionpadstow.co.uk

Martin and Sarah welcome you to the

Golden Lion and you couldn’t find a

more likeable landlord. Martin, a local

boy born and bred, has built up a strong

local following as well as successfully

attracting in the numerous visitors to

Padstow.

This 14th century inn, the oldest inn

in Padstow, is situated at the top of

Lanadwell Street, opposite the

cinedrome and just a 1-minute walk from

the quay. It’s oldie-worldly ambience,

open fire and parquet flooring are the

main draw for Martin’s guests. There is a

family room where children are made

very welcome and a lounge bar to the

rear. Also at the back of the pub there is a patio area that can be covered if required!

Nevertheless a wonderful interior can only impress guests so far, but that’s okay because the

Golden Lion doesn’t disappoint in any aspect. The home cooked food is excellent and the steaks,

supplied by Button Meats (a local family butchers that source only top grade local meat), are held in

high regard. There are daily special boards with homemade soups pies and fish dishes plus much more.

The accommodation was recently re-vamped and the three en-suite rooms, two double and one

twin/double, are now individually decorated to a high standard. All rooms have TV and tea/coffee

making facilities.

The Golden Lion is the stable of the Old ‘Oss which, on the 1st May each year dances through the

streets of Padstow to the sound of drums and accordions. ‘Obby ‘Oss, as it is known, is one of the

oldest festivals in Europe. Some old Padstonians travel from all over the world to be apart of it. It

all begins at midnight the night, before when the Night Singers sing to the landlord and landlady of

the Golden Lion, and ends at midnight on the 1st May. I recommend visiting the website to watch a

video of all this in action.

It’s also worth noting that Martin is able to offer storage for bicycles if you bring your own.

Unfortunately, there are no car parking facilities immediately on site however there are plenty of

car parks all within walking distance and all offer a 24-hour rate.

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THE OLIVE TREE1 Crossroads, St Merryn, Padstow,Cornwall PL28 8NFTel: 01841 521560e-mail: [email protected]: www.theolivetreecornwall.co.uk

Located just a few minutes away from Padstow and the

picturesque North Cornwall coastline, is a very popular

restaurant - The Olive Tree.

Open for brunch and dinner, The Olive Tree serves simple

food, in a relaxed atmosphere with many of the dishes being

influenced by Italy, a county much loved by owners Kevin and

Flo. The focus is on making the most of the ‘Cornish Larder’ with

its fantastic meat, cheese and vegetables, and not forgetting

the fish!

Taking into account everything that The Olive Tree stands

for, honest food, fresh ingredients, warm hospitality and talented chefs, it comes as no surprise that

the menu will impress. Open sandwiches, breakfast choices, freshly made pizza and the Olive Tree

Burger are just a few examples from the brunch menu. The evening menu consists of dishes designed

to tantalise the tastebuds and options include; spaghetti carbonara, Cornish lamb cooked in red wine

for 5 hours, 8oz sirloin steak and freshly made pizza. The desserts are equally as tempting and with

treacle tart & clotted cream, ice cream and more, it would be wise to leave room for an afters! There

is also a daily specials board offering even more delectable delights.

Open for brunch from 10.30 Fri, Sat and Sun, Dinner from 6.30pm Mon and Wed - Sat.

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BLUE REEFAQUARIUM

Towan Promenade, Newquay,Cornwall TR7 1DUTel: 01637 878134Fax: 01637 872578website: www.bluereefaquarium.co.uk

Blue Reef Aquarium takes visitors on an undersea

voyage that explores the amazing range of marine

life from around the world, from the beaches and

cliffs of the local Cornish coastline to the

spectacular ‘underwater gardens’ of the

Mediterranean and the dazzling beauty of exotic

tropical reefs.

The centrepiece of the museum is a stunning

coral reef display housed in a giant 250,000 litre

ocean tank that is home to hundreds of brightly

coloured reef fish, puffer fish and black tip reef

sharks. This amazing spectacle can be seen from a

boardwalk overlooking the atoll, from inside a

glass cave or from inside an underwater walk-

through tunnel. Open daily from 10 o’clock, the

Aquarium has more than 30 living displays - the sea horses and the friendly rays are great favourites -

and holds regular talks and feeding demonstrations.

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THE FALCON INNSt Mawgan, nr Newquay, Cornwall TR8 4EPTel: 01637 860225e-mail: [email protected]

Sarah and David are the innkeepers of The Falcon Inn, offering a

warm welcome to all. Their wisteria covered inn offers guests a

tranquil respite from the bigger cities with quaint outdoor

seating overlooking its award winning gardens and further afield;

the special conservation area of the Vale of Lanherne. Inside,

the inn sports traditional décor, with large open fireplaces and

scrubbed wooden furniture, harping back to its origins as a 16th

century inn.

Sarah and David are passionate about food, and serve up a

handsome a la carte menu along side bar meals. Their signature

dish is the steak and blue cheese pie, although the menu also

offers a whole host of fresh fish, vegetarian and traditional

Cornish delicacies. Their wine menu is extensive and carefully

chosen to compliment the food, whilst ale lovers will be contented with the three real ales available

from the famous St Austell Brewery. A guest ale is forever rotating, ensuring that guests are always

offered something new to try.

For many, The Falcon Inn is so much more than somewhere to enjoy a fine glass of wine and a

good meal; it’s the perfect spot to base their holiday. Just five minutes from Newquay Airport (not on

flight path), it has convenient access with Sarah and David offering airport transfers. There are two

en suite rooms either a twin or a double both of which have been awarded 4 AA stars.

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LAPPA VALLEY STEAM RAILWAYSt Newlyn East, nr Newquay, Cornwall TR8 5HZTel: 01872 510317website: www.lappavalley.co.uk

Lappa Valley Steam Railway is one of the most popular attractions in the whole county, offering a

great day out for families. The centrepiece is the 15" gauge steam railway that runs through beautiful

countryside from

Benny Halt to East

Wheal Rose, but there

are two other, tinier

railways, one of them

featuring a miniature

Intercity 125.

The site provides a

good habitat for

wildlife, and other

attractions include

nature trails,

woodland walks, a

nine-hole golf course,

a boating lake, a brick

path maze, play areas,

coffee and gift shops

and old mine engine

house.

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THE SMUGGLERS DENTrebellan, Cubert, Newquay,Cornwall TR8 5PYTel: 01637 830209e-mail: [email protected]: www.thesmugglersden.co.uk

Simon Hancock has been in the hospitality trade for

over twenty years, owning various fine establishments

throughout Cornwall. His current venture is The

Smugglers Den, found in the glorious countryside

outside Newquay in Trebellan. It’s popular with local

dog walkers, ramblers and tourists owing to its

location just five minutes drive from the long sandy beaches at Holywell where coastal paths and

water sports are in abundance.

The Den itself is a real olde worlde treasure with the original thatched roof and log burners

dating back over five hundred years. Guests can enjoy a cosy snug in the bar area with an excellent

range of wines, spirits and real ales to choose from, or take a pew outside on one of the inn’s two

terraces which offer uninterrupted rural views. In the summer months Simon offers various outdoor

BBQs, but always operates a first class menu if you don’t fancy that. The cuisine is of a contemporary

British style, with dishes packed full of locally sourced produce and a daily changing specials board.

Favourites include pan roasted venison loin, steamed River Fowey mussels and the Primrose Herd

pork tasting plate.

Simon also offers a large and elegant function room for all special occasions which sports

beautiful views of its own. Please call for details.

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THE BOWGIE INNWest Pentire, Crantock,Newquay, Cornwall TR8 5SETel: 01637 830363e-mail: [email protected]: www.bowgie.com

The Bowgie Inn has been owned by The

Pickles’ family for over forty years. Aside from

a friendly atmosphere and a warm welcome,

the biggest attraction is the Bowgie’s location.

It sits on West Pentire Headland overlooking

Crantock Beach with unrivalled views of the

Goose Rock and the North Atlantic Coast. The

panoramic views reach as far as Trevose

Lighthouse on a clear day and at night you can

see the light. The sandy beach is perfect for

swimming, surfing and sunbathing, attracting

visitors throughout the year. The South West

Coastal Footpath passes through the grounds of

the Bowgie, along the cliffs.

The Bowgie will be on your route if you are

walking the Coastal Path or if you walk the

Newquay-Perranporth section. There are also

short walks around the headland, across the

Gannel Estuary and to Polly Joke Beach and

Holywell. Most of the neighbouring land

belongs to the National Trust and is a haven for

wild birds and flowers. The Bowgie is a

popular Lunch venue for walkers and hikers to

stop off to enjoy much needed refreshments

throughout the year. The Bowgie Boasts a

large decked dining area during the summer,

with uninterrupted views of Crantock Bay,

blessing all who sit there with stunning sunsets

on balmy summer evenings. There is lots of

outdoor space on the lawn which overlooks the

beach too, and ample parking.

Inside the Bowgie, guests would be forgiven for thinking they were still outside. The view is as

dramatic from the bar, looking out through the vast picture windows and patio doors, showcasing

Cornwall at it’s best. A traditional Pig Sty Bar with beamed ceilings and traditional furnishings,

compliment the natural feel of the outside whilst offering a cosy spot to enjoy a meal or a drink.

The bar is always well stocked with various lagers, Cornish Real Ales, Wines, Spirits, a Large Selection

of Soft Drinks and Hot Drinks from Teas, Coffees, Hot Chocolates and your favourite Liquor Coffee.

So whatever your poison, you are sure to be well attended.

The Bowgie has a thriving restaurant, which offers traditional pub food, specialising in homemade

dishes. Favourites include homemade quiches, lasagne, pies, vegetarian dishes and Steaks. In the

winter months a selection of Winter Warmers are included as deals on the menu, offering extra

value, guaranteed to repel the cold after a blustery winter walk on the beach. In the winter the fire

is always roaring. Winter or summer it is great for watching the surfers and the waves.

Lunch is served Daily from 11-2.30pm and Evening Meals are served from 6-9pm –ish. On

Sundays, meals are served all day including Sunday Roasts. Open Daily, Open All Year, Open all Day

from 11am.

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ST AGNES HOTELChurchtown, St Agnes, Cornwall TR5 0QPTel: 01872 552307 Fax: 01872 553114e-mail: [email protected]: www.st-agnes-hotel.co.uk

Situated opposite the church in the heart of the village, The St

Agnes Hotel offers quality en-suite accommodation on a bed and

breakfast or full board basis, at reasonable rates.

Friendly owners Bill and Di have created an ideal base for

walkers, surfers and beach lovers alike. They even offer a

luggage delivery service for walkers of the coastal path, so that

guests can enjoy their walking holiday, safe in the knowledge

that their bags will be waiting for them at their next destination.

There are six tastefully decorated en suite bedrooms, each

with remote control television, central heating and tea & coffee

making facilities. There are a variety of double bedrooms to choose from, including a large family

room, and most have views of the St Agnes church and village high street. English or continental

breakfast is served in the dining room between 8.00 am and 11.30 am using fresh local produce.

The food here is outstanding and a team of professional chefs have created a superb menu to

entice guests as well as passerbys. All the dishes are cooked on the premises, with the exception of

the ice-cream (which is made locally) and the bread (baked over the road in the St Agnes Bakery).

Guests can expect to see dishes such as pasta of the day, baked cod fillet, steamed local mussels,

char-grilled Cornish rib eye steak and plenty more. The AGGIE Cornish breakfast is served from 9am -

12 noon (Monday - Sunday), New Lunch Specials are served from 12 - 2.30pm (Monday - Saturday) and

Dinner is served from 6.30 - 9.00 (Monday - Sunday).

The hotel caters for weddings, christenings, birthdays or any other excuse to throw a party. The

dining room is available for hire for private functions, whether it is for a ‘sit down’ wedding

function, a birthday buffet or a conference with tea/coffee & biscuits.

There is also a new decking area, which has already been booked for various functions ranging

from weddings and christenings, to barbeques and buffets all in the sunshine (with a giant parasol for

when the weather can’t be guaranteed).

The hotel is dog and child friendly, and Molly the chocolate labrador is often on hand to meet and

greet guests.

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LITTLE TREVELLAS FARMTrevellas, St Agnes, Cornwall TR5 0XXTel: 01872 552945 e-mail: [email protected]: www.stagnesbandb.co.uk

Ideally located for Cornish holidaymakers between the town of Perranporth and idyllic St Agnes on

the North Cornwall coast is Little Trevellas Farm. Guests are welcomed by owner Mary Andrew, who

has been running a three star bed and breakfast for many years now. Nestled amongst the rolling

hills, the bed and breakfast affords guests glorious views with comfy beds, en suite facilities and free

wifi. Guests are served delicious homemade breakfasts by Mary, cooked with produce from Little

Trevellas Farm itself. Guests have the opportunity to visit the farm and get to know some of its

friendlier animals.

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FOWEY HARBOUR COTTAGES3 Fore Street, Fowey, Cornwall PL23 1AHTel: 01726 832211 Fax: 01726 832901e-mail: [email protected]: www.foweyharbourcottages.co.uk

Fowey is an extremely historical town with lots

of character and charm. Its nearby harbour is

one of the finest natural harbours in the world

and the water sporting facilities, which take

place here, entice a large number of tourists

every year. Fowey Harbour Cottages provide a

number of self-catering properties, throughout

Fowey and nearby Polruan, sleeping between 4

and 6 people in a variety of beautifully

decorated accommodations- from bungalows

and cottages to town apartments. A number of

the properties have gardens or patios and

include all the mod cons that you would expect

to find in a top quality holiday home.

Fowey is the perfect place to visit for the crisp country air as many of the holiday homes are

surrounded by cliffs and countryside, run by the National Trust, meaning that the area is very popular

with walkers. A short connecting passenger ferry is available to travel in to polruan, where the village

boasts some lovely restaurants and shops, making the holiday homes here perfect for those wishing to

have a tranquil getaway, just a stones throw away from everything they may require.

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RESTORMEL CASTLEOff the A390, 1½ miles north of Lostwithiel, Cornwall PL22 0DBTel: 01208 872687website: www.english-heritage.org.uk

High on a moated mound overlooking the River Fowey, Restormel Castle is one of the former

strongholds of the Earls of Cornwall, whose number included Edward, the Black Prince. Dating from

the 11th century, it was one of the first motte and bailey castles to be raised in the West Country,

and in the next century its original wooden defences were replaced with stone and a full set of

domestic buildings added. In 1272 Restormel was inherited by Edmund of Almaine, Earl of Cornwall,

whose builders constructed a miniature palace within its walls; this provided lavish accommodation

for the Earl and his guests, who could look out on to a deer park created for their favourite pursuit.

The Black Prince stayed here in

1354 and 1365, but with the loss of

Gascony soon after, most of the

contents of value were removed, and

the Castle fell into ruin. Today, the

ruins survive in this tranquil hilltop

setting; in spring the banks are

covered in daffodils and bluebells, and

in summer the site is one of the best

picnic spots in Cornwall, boasting

stunning views of the peaceful

countryside.

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BELLAMAMA DELIFore Street, Lostwithiel,Cornwall PL22 0BLTel: 01637 860225e-mail: [email protected]

Located in the picturesque town of Lostwithiel, is the much acclaimed Bellamama deli. The deli

offers a cornucopia of all things tempting to do with food. Chorizos and dried chillis hang from the

ceiling and the smell of fresh bread and Origin coffee tempts you in. The deli stocks a wonderful

range of cheeses both local and continental, alongside ready to slice charcuterie, artisan breads,

antipasto & olives, coffee, wine, local beers & ciders and offers a selection of fabulous homemade

pies and bespoke sandwiches to take away. Friday nights, the deli produces wonderful stone baked

Pizzas to take away and during the summer, Sue cooks massive paellas outside the deli, ask in the

shop for dates..they’re well worth a visit!

ROOMS AT POLGASSICKPolgassick, Lostwithiel, Cornwall PL22 0HYTel: 01208 873503

If you enjoy the experience of Bellamama deli, you will love the rooms Sue

has to offer for bed & breakfast at her delightful home Polgassick, found just a mile outside of

Lostwithiel. There are two beautifully presented ensuite bedrooms which have been tastefully

decorated and offer above and beyond the usual necessities. Guests can start their day with a

fantastic ‘Full English’ created using locally sourced produce and free range eggs, or enjoy a

continental breakfast prepared from food from the deli. It doesn’t get much better than this.

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THE PARADE9A Parade Square, Lostwithiel,Cornwall PL22 0DXTel: 01208 871148e-mail: [email protected]

The Parade is situated at the bottom of the main

street in Lostwithiel, down by the river. It is a

lifestyle boutique packed to the rafters with an

expertly curated selection of contemporary art, a

mix of fashions and gifts.

Formally an art galley, The Parade has been

open for over eight years now as a lifestyle

boutique and still manages to delight and surprise

its customers with its ever changing beautiful

pieces – fashion labels, such as; Part Two, Shere-

Female, Jack Pot, Elafin, Nougat, Johny Loves Rosie

and In Wear jewellery, plus beautiful bags by Orla

Kiely.

The boutique boasts a relaxed and comfortable

atmosphere, surrounded by the latest fashion, with

a chic London edge.

Works by local artists, such as James Foot,

adorn the walls – a must see on any visit to

Lostwithiel.

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COLLON BARTONLerryn, Lostwithiel, Cornwall PL22 ONXTel: 01208 872908e-mail: [email protected]

Lerryn lies on the banks of the River Fowey; its tree-lined

beauty and abundance of birds and wildlife making it a

popular place to visit for lovers of the outdoors. Just 25

minutes from Fowey itself, it’s also a convenient base for

exploring the shops, restaurants and cafes in the

surrounding area.

A five minute stroll from Lerryn, which is noted for its

riverside walks, is Collon Barton bed and breakfast, a mid

18th century farmhouse full of period character. The house

offers stunning views overlooking the river and across the

rolling countryside, offering its guests a haven of

tranquillity with plenty of sheltered areas and a summer

house in the grounds in which to relax and read. There are

four rooms to choose from, three of which have en suite

facilities. Guests are invited to enjoy either full English or

continental breakfasts served in the farmhouse kitchen by

owner Anne Mackie, who loves to serve her guests at the large slate topped dining table.

Collon Barton is a working sheep farm and Annie and her husband Iain welcome guests with young

families to take a tour of the farm and feed the animals. Booking is essential throughout the year.

Closeby is the Eden Project (20mins) and other well known gardens.

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THE WHITE PYRAMIDTrewoon, St Austell, Cornwall PL25 5TQTel: 01726 68047e-mail: [email protected]: www.thewhitepyramid.co.uk

Local woman Andrea Payton and her family run The White

Pyramid in the pretty village of Trewoon, just outside St

Austell. Andrea’s warmth of character brings the pub to life,

welcoming not only her many family and friends who frequent

the pub, but new visitors to the area.

Over the past year Andrea has fully refurbished the inn to a

very high standard and now can offer her guests a beautiful

function room for up to eighty guests, an elegant dining area

with its own bar, and of course the main bar area, which has a

very cosy feel. Outside a well maintained children’s play area

has a selection of slides and swings to amuse children at the

inn, whilst parents can sit back and enjoy a restful drink on the outdoor terrace overlooking it.

Andrea offers an excellent array of real ales, lagers, wines and spirits, alongside a well

established menu of fine British food. Dishes range from Stilton and garlic mushrooms and salmon

and coriander fishcakes to sizzling platters and a selection of juicy local steaks.

Four guest bedrooms are also available for guests wanting to make The White Pyramid their base,

with two double rooms and two family rooms on offer, both with full en suite facilities. With various

local attractions like the Eden Project, historic Charlestown and the beautiful Carlyon Bay just a

short drive away, it’s the perfect Cornish getaway.

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THE KINGS ARMSBridges, Luxulyan, Cornwall PL30 5EFTel: 01726 850202e-mail: [email protected]

The Kings Arms is set in the lush countryside surrounding

Luxulyan Valley and is known for being the closest pub to

Cornwall’s best attraction; the Eden Project. Built in

handsome Cornish granite, the Kings was originally a coaching

inn, later becoming one of St Austell Brewery’s earliest pubs.

It remains the heart of its community, hosting a variety of

charity events with support from local patrons.

Today visitors can enjoy a warm welcome from the inn’s

hosts Keith and Patricia Stocker who delight in providing a fun

and friendly atmosphere for all. The Kings Arms has plenty of

charm with an old wood burning stove, walls adorned with old

village photos and traditional farming implements. Guests can

also make use of the inn’s dartboard and league standard pool

table for a leisurely after dinner game.

The menu is varied and includes many home made dishes including traditional favourites like

steak and ale pie and rabbit casserole. Dishes are prepared by professional and student chefs, one of

whom has recently been awarded best student of the year at the local catering college.

The public house has also been Cask Marque accredited, tribute to the beautifully cask

conditioned ales it keeps from the famous St Austell Brewery. Guinness and Cornish Rattler cider are

also available on draught, with plenty of soft drinks and non-alcoholic beers available for drivers.

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THE SHIPWRECK & HERITAGE CENTRECharlestown, St Austell, Cornwall PL25 3NJTel: 01726 69897e-mail: [email protected]: www.shipwreckcharlestown.com

The Centre is housed in an old clay dry built on top of the tunnel formly used to transport clay to the

harbour and through which you can still walk. The tunnel leads to a viewing gallery where one of the

best views of Charlestown harbour can be enjoyed. It is estimated that there are 3000 wrecks around

the coast of Cornwall and the centre has an amazing collection of artefacts and memorabilia from

some of them.

One of the most famous shipwrecks of all time was the Titanic and the displays include letters

from Frederick James Banfield, born in Helston in 1884, who perished in the disaster, along with

various Titanic artefacts.

The Diving Display portrays underwater scenes of

salvage and rescue and has an array of diving suits and

apparatus. Treasure and artefacts from around 200

wrecks can be seen such as muskets, coins, telescopes,

candlesticks, pieces of eight and even a large

consignment of Chinese porcelain.

The shop sells a wide selection of maritime

souvenirs, coins and ‘treasure’ for the children, as well

as fudge, cards, books and Titanic memorabilia. Above

the Centre, with splendid views of the harbour, is the

Bosun’s Diner where refreshments are available.

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ATISHOO DESIGNS71 Charlestown Road, Charlestown,St. Austell, Cornwall PL25 3NLTel: 01726 65900e-mail: [email protected]: www.atishoodesigns.co.uk

Atishoo Designs is a contemporary arts and crafts

gallery situated in the village of Charlestown, a

designated World Heritage Site and home to three

working tall ships. The gallery exhibits work by more

than eighty artists and designer makers, many based in

the South West of England, and is owned and run by

artist couple Liz Hackney and Paul Clark. Located in a

converted barn, the building was for some thirty years

the former village butchers shop before being opened

as a gallery by Liz and her family in 2003. The

downstairs shop has an interesting selection of prints,

pottery, jewellery, crafts and cushions with a quirky

coastal theme. Upstairs is a larger exhibition space

showing paintings by artists including Alan Arthurs,

Lamorna Penrose and David Wheeler, as well as a studio space for Liz and Paul.

Atishoo Designs is a little off the beaten track, but well worth the five minute walk up the hill

from the beautiful Georgian harbour, down a little lane opposite the Old Charlestown Chapel.

Open all year: Summer: Mon – Sat 10am - 4pm, Winter: Weds – Sat. 10am – 4pm.

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GRAVY8 Edward Street, Truro, Cornwall TR1 3AJTel: 01872 222237e-mail: [email protected]: www.gravy-boesti.co.uk

Stylish and contemporary, Gravy boesti provides a relaxed

and comfortable environment for everyone, whether it’s a

time-conscious business lunch or pre-theatre dinner, a

relaxed evening meal or simply just getting together with

friends.

Truro’s latest dining experience offers traditional,

uncomplicated cuisine with a subtle gravy twist and focuses

on providing the freshest ingredients sourced locally through

renowned suppliers.

Owner, Andrew Browning along with Head Chef, Keith

Davis have blended traditional ingredients, styles and

techniques with some international and individual

influences creating unique recipes that are all freshly

prepared giving their menu the distinctive Gravy difference.

Be sure to try ‘Fresh Eggs – The Gravy Way’ - breakfast is

served Monday to Friday from 10am, brunch on Saturdays

10am - 12pm and Sundays 10am - 3pm including Sunday

lunches. For lunch, there are ‘Cornish Mussels’, fresh from

local waters, these mussels are cooked with a delicious

combination of white wine, garlic & Chorizo sausage, served

with rustic homemade bread and garnished with fresh bay

leaves and orange to give it that extra twist. The seafood is

caught daily, therefore occasionally Gravy may substitute

their core menu with other exciting specials subject to

availability. For dinner why not try Gravy’s homemade lean

beef burger, prime beef mince, locally sourced and blended

with our own recipe of onion & fresh thyme served on

ciabatta bread with a homemade cornichon mayonnaise,

fresh rocket, tomato, crushed oven baked peppercorns and a Cornish smoked cheese with a side of

our very own hand cut oven baked seasoned chunky chips.

The restaurant also boasts an enclosed outside area for those seeking the al fresco experience

during the warmer months. Serving food throughout the day, Gravy is an ideal location for any

occasion at any time.

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THE HERON INNMalpas, nr Truro, Cornwall TR1 1SLTel: 01872 272773e-mail: [email protected]: www.heroninn.co.uk

Imagine yourself relaxing in the early evening sun

overlooking the confluence of where the rivers Fal,

Tresillian and Truro meet, sipping an ice cold glass of

white wine and enjoying the classic Cornish taste of

a bowl of steaming mussels cooked just the way you

like them.

This is what’s in store for guests who visit The

Heron Inn in Malpas. Malpas is a picturesque village

less than two miles from Truro city centre, offering

visitors unrivalled river views , glorious countryside

walks and the kind of idyllic charm only Cornwall can

offer. The Heron finds itself ideally located at the

end of a particularly pretty riverside walk form Truro

city centre, where at its end having worked up a

thirst, guests can indulge in the truly delectable food

and drink on offer there. Alternatively it’s only five

minutes in the car.

Owners Karen and Jonathan Berg offer an

excellent range of homemade food using the finest

locally sourced ingredients. Their menu is carefully

designed, using only the best local produce to create

the best flavours of Cornwall. Their passion for using

local ingredients stems from a desire to support

other local businesses and to do their part for

reducing their carbon footprint. All dishes are cooked

fresh to order, meaning that any special dietary

requirements can be tailored to each dish. They also

offer a wide range of special vegetarian and gluten

free dishes to make choosing easier. Cornish crab is

always in abundance, so fresh crab sandwiches are

always on the lunchtime menu. Other popular dishes include local sausages and mash, homemade

smoked haddock chowder, fresh fish pie, succulent Cornish lamb chops and steaks, spicy crab cakes ,

homemade lasagne and a traditional roast dinner on Sundays with gluten free and vegetarian options

available. At lunchtime guests can also choose from a tasty variety of filled rolls, paninis and tortilla

wraps or light bites such as deep fried whitebait or locally made falafels.

The Heron stocks an excellent range of Cornish real ales as well as spirits and great selection of

wines, ten of which you can buy by the glass and in three sizes. The inn’s unrivalled location means

that its sunny terrace is a popular spot for having a bite to eat whilst either worshipping the warming

rays or relaxingly watching the setting sun. In the winter months the terrace benefits from outdoor

heating so the beautiful panorama can be enjoyed year round.

Karen and Jonathan also cater for business lunches and encourage guests to use their pre-order

service which allows them to have your food served on arrival. They can also cater for a host of

events whether for joyful celebration or a more sombre occasion, their staff are welcoming and

friendly and are always happy to accommodate.

The Heron also hosts its own very popular quiz night on Tuesdays at 8pm from September to mid

June, with the entry fee of £1 per person going to the village’s spectacular fireworks display in

November.

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THE KINGS ARMS55 Fore Street, Tregony, Truro TR2 5RWTel: 01872 530202e-mail: [email protected]: www.staustellbrewery.co.uk/pubs/a-z-of-pubs/191-kings-arms-tregony.html

The historic village of Tregony is the gateway to

the Roseland Peninsula and is well known for its

Christmas lights and regular pantomimes

performed by the local theatre company, making

it a vibrant and pleasant spot to visit at any time

of year. It has easy access to some of Cornwall’s

finest locations like the Lost Gardens of Heligan

and Caerhays Castle, with passenger ferries

running nearby to popular fishing villages like

Mevagissey for day trips with plenty of hidden

coves and beaches to explore also within a

driving distance. A walk around the village itself

however also makes for a pleasant afternoon

with a gallery, farm shop, antiques shop, and

other eclectic stores to peruse. Located at the

heart of the village is the charming and

traditional Kings Arms.

The building itself is a handsome creation

with parts dating back as far as the 16th century

when it was originally built as a coaching inn for

weary travellers and their horses. Today the inn

continues to provide much needed refreshments

to both locals and visitors making use of some of

the peninsula’s fabulous walks. Although its

owners Darren and Kay Heather have put much

effort into retaining the inn’s traditional

features, they have injected a new lease of life,

updating facilities throughout in tasteful way. It

sports original slate floors and wood panelled

walls in two of its dining rooms, and uniquely

has an old wishing well inside. This unusual

feature is always a hot topic of conversation and

is something the Heather’s are particularly

proud of.

They are also proud to have been awarded

Cask Marque status and offer ales lovers a wide

selection of brews from the famous St Austell

Brewery. Darren and Kay also offer a good

selection of wines, spirits and soft drinks which

can be enjoyed in the inn’s eye catching patio

area and beer garden, perfect in the sunnier summer months.

Darren is a chef by trade and has been perfecting his skills for over twenty years. Today he

entices customers with his wonderful selection of home cooked meals, including slow roast shin of

beef, fillet of salmon, stilton, walnut and spinach quiche, steak and Tribute ale pie, homemade Thai

fishcakes and a delicious chicken curry. Light bites are also available as well as a traditional roast

which is served each Sunday. Food is served from 12-2pm and 6-9pm seven days a week, but booking

is recommended on weekends and in high season to avoid disappointment.

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THE ROSELAND INNPhilleigh, Truro, Cornwall TR2 5NBTel: 01872 580254e-mail: [email protected]: www.roselandinn.co.uk

Deep in the heart of Roseland, just a stones throw away from the famous king harry ferry lies The

Roseland Inn. Set in the picturesque village of Philleigh this superb olde worlde villiage inn has

something to offer everyone.

The building is absolutely full of character and charm and features wooden beams throughout as

well as other tasteful décor and a delightful roaring fire, creating a spectacularly warm and inviting

ambience. The corner of the inn is dedicated to rugby trophies as this is the local for the Roseland

Rugby Club. The atmosphere makes it the perfect location to spend a quiet morning with a coffee,

meet friends for a drink or have a leisurely evening meal- no matter what time of day, you will

always feel welcome here.

Tenants Phil Heslip and Jose Melhuish took

over the tenancy at The Roseland Inn in May 2008,

becoming the second business that the couple run

of the same calibre. The couple also own and run

The Victory in the coastal village of St Mawes.

Providing visitors with superb, delicious and

mouth-watering food, there is space for 30 in the

restaurant, as well as space to dine in the bar

areas and outside seating available on warmer

days. Local produce is used here to create lighter

bites of sandwiches packed full of scrumptious

fillings, with coleslaw and crisps to garnish as well

as starters of scallops, confit of duck leg, served

with chorizo mash and a lovely chicken and wild

mushroom terrine. Main dishes include venison

and cashew nut stew, which is delectable, grilled

salmon with char grilled asparagus and a grilled

trio of seafish on a mussel and saffron herb cream,

which is a favourite. All prices here are reasonable

and reflect the wonderful ingredients used.

Not only a winner for food, this business is a

key location for real ales. Two ales are currently a

favourite here, doom bar and betty stogs, however

new to the property is the tenants micro brewery,

which is situated adjacent to the inn, where the

couple produce their own real ale, which is

without a doubt going to be a tremendous hit with

locals and visitors alike. There are plenty of

country and river walks in the local area for those

who wish to stretch their legs.

The Roseland Inn is open every session

throughout the year and open all day on Saturday

during the winter and all day everyday in June/

July and August. Food is available daily from 12-

2.30pm and 6.30 and 9pm. Bookings should be

made for dining on Sundays as this inn is

extremely popular and finding new regulars daily.

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THE ROYAL STANDARD5 The Square, Gerrans, Portscatho, Truro, Cornwall TR2 5EBTel: 01872 580271e-mail: [email protected] or [email protected]: www.royalstandard-gerrans.co.uk

The Royal Standard occupies a much coveted position overlooking the glorious Gerrans Bay in

Porthscatho just outside Truro. This handsome inn embodies many peoples’ dream of a traditional

Cornish pub; offering the hearty food, drink and great company day in and day out with simply

stunning surroundings.

The inn itself was built in 1793 by the renowned

blacksmith William Pearce, who took it upon himself to

erect the building on a piece of wasteland. Mr Pearce

acted as the inn’s first ever landlord, beginning a

timeless tradition in the Royal Standard for great

hospitality. The inn’s current owners David and

Roberta Mitchell maintain a timeline of all the inn’s

previous landlords right up to the present day. In this

way the inn retains a real sense of history, and some

of its more traditional features still remain, like the

handsome open fireplace, low beamed ceilings and

brass memorabilia. Over the years parts of the inn

were also used for a school room, a picnic room and a

meeting room for the village committee. The inn once

also held a skittle alley and had a space for brewing its

own beer and stabling horses.

Although the inn no longer has brewing facilities, it

maintains high regard for the art of ale making and has

been awarded Casque Marque status for the quality of

ales it keeps. Ale lovers will be pleased to have the

opportunity to sample one of Cornwall’s most famous

exports, Doombar, along with some other favourites

from the well known Sharp’s Brewery, which lies in the

small town of Rock.

David and Roberta are also proud to offer their guests a delicious Cornish menu, sourcing all their

ingredients from the surrounding county. Their local butcher Andy Day provides all the meat

including his award winning sausages, whilst Matthew Stevens from St Ives provides all the fresh fish.

The menu offers an array of hearty homemade food, with a selection of traditional pies and old

fashioned English foods. Dishes include a local Ploughman’s, homemade soup, Moules Marinere, fine

rump steak and a smoked seafood platter, not forgetting the classic Cornish pasty. Food is served

from 12-2pm Tues-Sunday, 6-10:30pm Mon-Thurs, and 6-midnight on Fridays and Saturdays. In winter

the inn closes on Monday mornings, but in the summer months guests (and their dogs) are welcomed

every day.

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THE OLD QUAY INNSt John’s Terrace, Devoran, Truro, Cornwall TR3 6NE(between Truro and Falmouth off the A39 - follow the signs from the Devoran roundabout)

Tel: 01872 863142website: www.theoldquayinn.co.uk

This long established traditional pub, situated at the head of Restronguet Creek in Devoran, adjacent

to the coast-to-coast cycle and walking trail, is enjoying a renaissance under new owners Hannah and

John Calland.

Chef Alex Carlisle,

who did some of his

training at the Ivy,

creates seriously good

food weaving together

the best of local produce

into an imaginative daily

specials menu with a

modern twist. At the Old

Quay Inn we work closely

with local suppliers,

farmers and fishermen to

buy ingredients that are

fresh, of the highest

quality and low in food

miles. We offer a good

selection of fresh Cornish

fish and the species we

use are not from depleted

or threatened fish stocks.

The young team provide a warm welcome at all times of the day. Meals are served 12 to 3pm and 6

to 9pm, seven days a week.

We are open for morning coffee with pastries from 10am, afternoon coffee and cake and Cornish

cream tea from Easter to September. There are carefully selected house and table wines and local

beers - Cask Marque certified - to enjoy.

A large sunny garden, ideal for ‘al fresco’ dining, could be called Devoran’s best-kept secret. Dogs

and children are welcome. Two double bedrooms for bed & breakfast. Cycle hire from Devoran Creek

Cycle Hire available next to the pub.

Opening times: Open all day, every day from 11am ‘till late.

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HALWYN’S TEA GARDENSHalwyn, Old Kea, Truro, Cornwall TR3 6AWTel: 01872 272152e-mail: [email protected]: www.halwynteagardens.com

Halwyn’s Tea Gardens is a real old fashioned tea garden set on the

banks of the River Fal. It offers pretty views across to the Roseland

Peninsula, but is equally as beautiful in the garden with gorgeous

summer blossoms filling the air with bright colours and sweet scents.

Many visitors to Halwyn while away the hours sat here peacefully

watching the glory of the Cornish countryside unroll before them.

The jewel in Halwyn’s crown is the Dell, a stunning area running

down to the river where a breeze house and small beach await.

Whilst relaxing, guests can enjoy a light lunch or a cup of loose

tea in one of owner Sue’s special bone china tea cups. The cottage

was just a shell when Roy and Sue took over and since then they

have lovingly restored it to the quaint reminder of years gone by it

is today. Sympathetically decorated in cottage style, it’s much loved

by all those who visit. Sue also offers her guests the choice of one of

her delicious homemade cakes, or one of her mouth watering scones with clotted cream and jam.

She also stocks Calestick ice cream, and various cold drinks for the young at heart, with ginger beer

being a particular favourite.

Halwyn can be booked for private functions and tea parties. Otherwise Sue opens 11am-5pm

everyday from the end of April to the end of September subject to weather.

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FINN M’COULS1 Killigrew Street, Falmouth, Cornwall TR11 3PGTel: 01326 318653

Helen Congdon has been running the Irish pub Finn M’Couls for

the past eleven years, creating a hearty tradition for good craic

within the buzzing Falmouth community. Situated in a prime

position opposite the Prince of Wales Pier, it’s convenient for those

not just from Falmouth, but for those from the quaint fishing

villages of St Mawes and Flushing over on the Roseland Peninsula

which is easily accessed by the passenger ferries from the pier.

Finn M’Couls itself is a beautiful, traditional granite fronted

building that dates back to the 18th century. Helen holds some

handsome sepia photographs of the building from years gone by

when it was just as popular for the perfect pint of Guinness as it is

today.

Inside, Finn’s is spaciously laid out over two floors with a

glorious open fires for those cold winter days and nights. Helen

encourages all to step inside and warm up with a seasonal glass of

mulled wine in winter, or cool down with a jug of Pimms in the warmer summer months. Although no

food is on offer, Finns unusually encourage guests to bring their own food in to enjoy with their

drinks – and heavily recommends the delicious pasty shop next door! Finns opens daily from 10am –

1am from Monday to Saturday, and from noon to midnight on Sundays. She offers a fun and friendly

atmosphere for both staff and guests, with a strong local following. Three or four nights a week

Helen puts on live music with a variety of local touring bands and singers.

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TREGENNA GUEST HOUSE28 Melvill Road, Falmouth,Cornwall TR11 4ARTel: 01326 313881e-mail: [email protected]: www.tregennafalmouth.co.uk

The popular harbour town of Falmouth has plenty to offer

tourists and locals alike. Part of the appeal that draws visitors

time and time again, is Tregenna; a small, family run guest

house. The guest house is midway between the town, local

beaches, docks and busy harbour, making it the perfect choice

for those who wish to be close to the sea.

The premises insures unbeatable comfort and is centrally

heated, double glazed and fully insulated, allowing guests to

enjoy a warm, cosy atmosphere during the winter months.

There are eight comfortable, homely rooms, many of

which enjoy delightful harbour or sea views. All but one of the

bedrooms are ensuite, and all have their own hand basin,

shower facilities, shaving point, flatscreen TV with Freeview,

hair dryer and tea and coffee making facilities. Other house

facilities include a spacious conservatory with lounge area, TV

with Freeview, DVD player and free WiFi access. To the side of

the house there is a covered decked area with seating and

lighting, and parking is available for guests. Guests can enjoy

a wonderful breakfast between 8am – 9am, with a choice of

cereals and a Full English using quality, local produce.

CASTLE BEACH CAFÉCliff Road, Falmouth, Cornwall TR11 4NZTel: 01326 313881e-mail: [email protected]: www.castlebeachcafe.co.uk

A warm welcome awaits visitors to Castle Beach Café in

Falmouth. Attentive hosts Steve and Jayne Gray bought the

café in 2010 and have created a relaxed haven in which to dine.

The café is set in an idyllic location and enjoys stunning views of Falmouth Bay and Pendennis

Castle. Providing hot and cold drinks, ice creams, pasties, paninis, sandwiches and light meals, diners

will be spoilt for choice. There is a large sundeck area, together with a timber framed canopy with

tables and chairs. The shop sells buckets and spades and also provides deck chair hire. There is also

free broadband Wi-Fi available to customers. So why not bring your laptop and relax in the sun over

tea, coffee or a light meal.

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PEA SOUK19C Well Lane, Church Street, Falmouth TR11 3EGTel: 01326 317583 e-mail: [email protected]

Tucked away off the main street, you’ll find Pea Souk. This quirky place

offers a vibrant dining environment with mismatched furniture, bright scatter cushions and an

eclectic mix of artwork. It’s run by Nicola Willis, a woman truly passionate about making good

vegetarian food, even being Cordon Vert qualified. She offers scrumptious vegetarian and vegan

meals all cooked fresh to order using the very best in locally sourced produce. Her dishes

concentrate on Middle Eastern flavours with Mezze being a specialty. Favourites include roasted

vegetable tarts, homemade cakes, gorgeous heart warming soups, salads and snacks. Open Monday to

Saturday 10am-5pm and 7-11pm in the evenings with advance bookings.

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NATIONAL MARITIME MUSEUMDiscovery Quay, Falmouth, Cornwall TR11 3QYTel: 01326 313388 Fax: 01326 317878e-mail: [email protected]: www.nmmc.co.uk

The National Maritime Museum has been designed for broad appeal, with a wide range of hands-on

displays, a superb collection of small boats, demonstrations of boat-building, lectures, a research

library, a meteorology gallery,

remote-control scale-model

boats, exhibitions that tell

the story of Cornwall’s unique

maritime heritage and a

waterside café. For many, the

highlight will naturally be the

Museum’s collection of 120

historic British and

international boats, many of

which had been in storage for

years; these are

supplemented by

contemporary vessels,

prototypes and future

designs. 30 of these craft will

routinely be sailed from the

NMMC’s own jetties.

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MISS PEAPODSJubilee Wharf, Penryn,Cornwall TR10 8FGTel: 01326 374424e-mail: [email protected]: www.misspeapod.co.uk

This multi-award winning café just goes

from strength to strength, having recently

scooped a silver award from ‘Taste of the

West’ and a gold award from Cornwall’s

tourism awards so this secret is well and

truly out! It’s perched overlooking the

picturesque Penryn estuary with lovely

views of wildlife and boats on down towards

the towns of Falmouth and Flushing. Miss

Peapod’s is found within easy reach of the

centre of Penryn, a beautiful 18th century

market town, made thriving by the colourful

university population that resides within it.

The cafe strikes a balance between the

comfort of home cooking and Mediterranean

sensibilities. They often make their own

pasta and bread and exploit all the seafood

and seasonal produce brought to them by

local suppliers and fishermen.

Speciality dishes include handmade crab

ravioli, whole lemon sole grilled in caper

butter or local steaks with hand cut chips

and their own pepper sauce. For people

with simpler tastes, they have some

homemade burgers with chips and toasted

ciabattas or sandwiches with fillings such as

seasonal vegetables and their own recipe

butter bean houmous.

There is an excellent range of mouth

watering puddings such as chocolate orange

mousse or rhubarb cheesecake, not to

mention all their cakes which are baked

fresh each day. They offer a wide range of classic cakes such as lemon drizzle, walnut and coffee and

a special gluten free chocolate brownie.

Comfortable sofa corners allow for private lunches and cosy coffees and there is free wifi for

those needing to catch up online or have a meeting. Children are also well provided for with lots of

wooden toys and a play kitchen with a quality, simple menu to match.

Food is served every day except Monday, opening between 10am-4pm. Friday evenings is the

special food night with the kitchen firing up between 7-9pm. Booking is recommended as there is

always some light entertainment on, in the shape of a local musician or two, warming you up for the

Saturday night gig which hosts a lively diary of events; see website for the latest listings.

Housed within the unique Jubilee Wharf complex, this café benefits from pioneering eco-features

and is an interesting place to visit. It was designed by the Z.E.D factory, Bill Dunster innovative

award winning eco-architects practice, and there is eye-catching windmills and a handsome wooden

decking surrounding the café outside with plenty of seating for lazy summer lunches.

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THE PORTREATH ARMSThe Square, Portreath, Redruth, Cornwall TR16 4LATel: 01209 842259e-mail: [email protected]

Set in a beautifully picturesque seaside village of Portreath is a former sea captains residence named

The Porthreath Arms Hotel. Now one of the finest inns/hotels in Cornwall, this property became a

licensed premises in 1872. It offers comfortable and relaxing bed and breakfast accommodation, as well

as excellent home cooked food.

Owned and personally run by

Sharon Austin for the past 14 years,

Sharon has a beautifully decorated

building, which is eye-catching both

inside and out. With its own parking at

the front of the property, the building

is grand with large windows, which

provide plenty of light in to the lounge

and bar on the ground floor and the

seven bedrooms on the first floor.

The seven guest rooms have a

mixture of sizes, ranging from double,

twin and family bedrooms, which are

all tastefully decorated and equipped

with all the mod cons you would

expect to find in a top quality

accommodation, including ensuite

bathrooms in five of the bedrooms.

The tariff includes a choice of full English or

continental breakfast, both of which are

delicious.

Food is available in the dining room or

lounge bar for both residents and non-

residents and is served daily from 12-2pm and

6-9pm. The dining room seats 20 and is light

and airy, providing a great atmosphere in

which to eat your meal. A team of three chefs

each add their own personal touches to the

board menu, which is suitable for a number of

different tastes. Light meals and salads are

available as well as jacket potatoes and

sandwiches. Main meals are extremely popular

and include pan-fried garlic mushrooms and

calamari for starters, lamb cutlets and fillet

steak from the grill or chilli con carne and nut

roast from the main menu. Homemade pies

and fish dishes are a speciality here as a

majority of the produce used is sourced

locally.

The fully stocked bar here offers a wide

selection of real ales, up to 4 in fact, including

abbot ale, sharps special and rotating guest

ales, 2/3 of which are usually a Cornish brew,

fitting in nicely with the surroundings.

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THE MELTING POT‘KROWJI’

The Old Grammar School, Redruth, Cornwall TR15 3AJTel: 07915 252757e-mail: [email protected]: www.themeltingpotcafe.co.uk

Serving delicious, honest homemade food, excellent coffee and a wide

range of drinks in its fully licensed bar, The Melting Pot is a hidden

gem of a cafe found in the heart of Cornwall’s largest creative hub.

Ben, the owner, has strong links with the creative industry both

locally and internationally having had a performing arts background.

Ben brings all his unique style and creativitiy to The Melting Pot and

some have said that the quirky ‘shabby-chic’ atmosphere and decor is

more reminiscent of a place in Berlin, Brighton or Amsterdam.

There is internet access and WiFi, plus meeting rooms available for

hire with whiteboards, screens and projectors.

The cafe is available for private hire and Ben and his team can also

provide catering for off-site events, as well as entertaining at the cafe

with frequest music nights. At any given time, a visit to The Melting

Pot may have you rubbing shoulders with film-makers, creative artists,

musicians and many more. A warm welcome awaits you, so get down

to The Melting Pot for a truly once in a lifetime experience.

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CARWINION HOUSECarwinion Road, Mawnan Smith, Falmouth,Cornwall TR11 5JATel: 01326 250258

A trip to Carwinion is a treat for all ages, with 14 acres of peaceful

unmanicured grounds to explore, fascinating sculptures and an

impressive jungle of bamboo, the ideal setting for a game of hide and seek. The elegant 18th

Century stone manor house offers the perfect bed-and-breakfast retreat where guests are looked

after by lady of the manor Jane Rogers, and the West Wing provides a charming self catering

getaway. During the summer months, the garden is host to a variety of family-friendly events, from

outdoor theatre to plant sales, art installations to garden open days. Carwinion is dog friendly and

welcomes visitors throughout the year.

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THE BREA INNHigher Brea, Camborne,Cornwall TR14 9DATel: 01209 713706website: www.thebreainn.co.uk

The Brea Inn is the heartbeat of a tiny village a

mile or so off the A3047 east of Camborne in the

heart of the Cornish tin mining district. It was

originally built as a mine-captain’s house in the

18th century, and the look within is delightfully

traditional, with stone walls, copper, brass, old

farming and industrial implements, pictures and

books. In this welcoming setting, attentive owner

Marcus Cole has made many friends with the

locals and continues to welcome new custom to

his property daily.

Three real ales head the list of drinks served

in the bar, and superb cooking is served from 12-

9pm daily. On Saturday you can visit the inn and

start the day with a hearty breakfast from 11am.

On Sunday’s a traditional roast is served from 12-

4pm, and regular evening meals resume from 4-

8pm. The regular printed menu is supplemented

by a list of daily specials, including a wealth of

vegetarian options, and an excellent gluten free

menu with some vegan options too. Lighter

options are also available for those with a

smaller appetite, including burgers, sandwiches,

baguettes and the well known Ploughman’s.

Tempting afternoon tea is served daily from 3-

6pm. All are welcome to join in the various

themed evenings Marcus offers. Monday is Pie

Day, Tuesday is Steak Night, Thursday is Curry

Night, Friday is Fish Night and these are all at

special prices.

Children are very welcome, as are dogs and

even horses, which can be secured just outside

the inn. The inn also has an enclosed beer

garden and ample off road parking for

convenience. Visitors looking to explore the

local area a little more can enjoy a stay at the

inn which offers one en suite guest bedroom,

sporting glorious views of the village and

surrounding countryside. Local landmarks include

Carn Brea, a 750’ granite hill, and after a little

fresh air and exercise, the staff at Brea Inn are

ready with a smile and something to quench

thirst and satisfy an appetite. In the winter

months a roaring fire provides a cost respite

from the colder weather, and as legend has it,

the inn’s resident ghost. Whatever the case, a

visit to this friendly hostelry will not disappoint.

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TREVARNO ESTATE AND GARDENSTrevarno, Crowntown, nr Helston, Cornwall TR13 0RUTel: 01326 574274 Fax: 01326 574282e-mail: [email protected]: www.trevarno.co.uk

The jewel in the crown, at the heart of the estate, is 70 acres of

enchanting gardens and grounds featuring one of Cornwall’s largest and

most diverse plant collections set within magnificent formal, informal

and woodland areas. The gardens include numerous specimen shrubs

and trees, a stunning bluebell valley, ornamental lake with picturesque

Victorian Boathouse and formal cascade, Sunken Italian Garden,

Serpentine Yew Tunnel, extensive Pinetum, Bamboo collection,

atmospheric Rockery and Grotto, the Great Lawn and Summer Terrace

and many other interesting features.

Restoration has been ongoing at Trevarno for the past ten years and

current projects include the upper Walled Garden, Gothic Potting Shed attached to the lower Walled

Garden, and a recently uncovered ancient carriage driveway.

A remarkable celebration of Britain’s gardening heritage can be found in the National Museum of

Gardening, which features the country’s largest and most comprehensive collection of gardening

antiques, memorabilia and ephemera.A wide range of handmade soaps and skincare products are

produced using the purest plant oils and materials available and visitors can sample the products,

which are available for sale, in the Organic Herbal Workshop. Refreshments are available in the

Fountain Garden Conservatory and there is a childrens adventure play are. A 2km walk takes you

through the estate and offers excellent views.

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THE FIVE PILCHARDS INNPorthallow, St Keverne, Helston,Cornwall TR12 6PPTel: 01326 280256website: www.thefivepilchards.co.uk

At The Five Pilchards Inn in Porthallow you will receive a warm

welcome from Landlord David Lambrick a former St Keverne

Farmer and award winning Cheesemaker.

Food at The Five Pilchards is unsurprisingly one of its main

attractions, specialising in excellent quality locally sourced fish

dishes. All ingredients are sourced from local suppliers and

farmers with fresh mussels being caught in the bay and sea salt

being produced just around the corner.

The beach literally begins outside the inn’s front door

making it the perfect location for relaxing and enjoying the

beautiful sea views, or taking in the surrounding glorious

countryside. It is also a fantastic base for exploring the local

dive sites or coastal walks as the halfway marker of the South

West Coastal Footpath sits on this beach.

The Inn is steeped in history, which is more than abundant upon entering the premises which

features a wonderful display of nautical artefacts. All year round you can taste a good range of real

ales and enjoy the inn’s traditional Cornish charm.

David and his wife Lynn also offer newly refurbished en suite guest bedrooms and a self contained

apartment so you can take your time to explore this beautiful part of Cornwall.

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THE GWEEK INNGweek, Helston, Cornwall TR12 6TUTel: 01326 221502e-mail: [email protected]: www.gweekinn.com

Located at the head of the Helford river

in this pretty little village with its

working boat yard and quay and woodland

walks. The Gweek Inn offers a warm

welcome to visitors, fine food with an

emphasis on sourcing local produce, fish

shellfish wild game and meats, real ales

and a village pub atmosphere, we also

have a separate restaurant with a quieter

dining experience. Steve and Debbie took

over the Gweek Inn in March 2009with a

view to add their personal touch. Their

success resulted them in taking on head

chef Mick Gilbert who along with his

excellent fish skills and homemade

standards such as pies, Lasagnes he also

adds to the mix with his experience of oriental cuisine

seeing Chinese and Indian specialities added to the

menu. Light lunches, cream teas and our highly

acclaimed Sunday Carvery have proved ever popular.

With the National seal sanctuary a few minute’s walk

away a policy of staying open for food all day 12 noon to

9.00pm has been appreciated by families looking to feed

the little ones.

Since our last entry in the guide we have attained

the cask marquee for our Cornish real ales and cellar

management. The surrounding area offers an abundance

of attractions to visit including Flambards, Culdrose,

Poldark mine and Goonhilly earth station, with beautiful

gardens to visit all around.Bring the dogs they are most

welcome, come in and plan your days activities with a

bite to eat or just relax with a pimms !!

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THE TOP HOUSE INNThe Lizard, Helston,Cornwall, TR12 7NQTel: 01326 290974e-mail: [email protected]: www.thetophouselizard.co.uk

The Top House Inn is England’s most southerly Inn

and is full of character and local history retaining

the charm of its roots as a traditional rural Cornish

Inn. Located in the heart of The Lizard village the

Inn offers a warm atmosphere from James and

Donna Glosby, and an enthusiastic team of staff who

share a passion for great customer service and for

providing a friendly environment for our locals and

visitors alike. The Lizard is one of the most

beautiful coastal settings in Cornwall and being so

close to the coastal path there are lots of lovely

walks close by with breathtaking views. The Lizard

village sees visitors to the area all year round, in

particular the summer months are very busy!

During the colder months our roaring log fire is a

much welcome sight and the Inn is a cosy place to

settle down for a drink or a meal.

In contrast to the traditional style of the main

Inn, our B&B rooms are light, bright and

contemporary and furnished in a style taking influences from the

surrounding coastline. Our 8 ensuite bedrooms (2 twin, 4 double

and 2 family – king size bed and a set of bunk beds) are housed in a

spacious 3 storey building which is attached to the main Inn but

also has its own front door accessed from a small pretty patio

garden, with seating for guests to relax and enjoy the fine weather.

We want guests to feel their room is a real home from home so we

provide tea, coffee, hot chocolate and biscuits, bathroom toiletries,

TV with freeview and free WI-FI so you can keep in touch whilst

away (if you want to)! Our 2nd floor rooms have superb sea views!

We are proud to hold an Enjoy England 4* Inn rating.

With great rooms, a wonderful location, friendly welcome,

extensive Menu offering dishes freshly prepared from the best local

produce, a comprehensive Wine List and Award Winning Real Ales

kept to Cask Marque standards, The Top House Inn is simply a great

place to eat, drink or stay!

For more details contact James or Donna Glosby, or one of the team.

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THE HAVEN BED & BREAKFASTRuan Minor, Helston, Cornwall TR12 7JLTel: 01326 290410e-mail: [email protected]

The Haven Bed and Breakfast occupies an enviable location on the

stunning coastline of the Lizard Peninsula in the south of Cornwall. With

the coastal footpath, Kynance Cove and the unspoilt Helford River

nearby, a holiday in this part of the country is certain to be one filled

with the delights of nature.

The Haven is owned by Denise Wilson who has been running it for

the past twenty years. She maintains a wonderfully laid back and

friendly attitude, welcoming all types of guests including families with

children and dogs. The Haven itself is a charming 17th century thatched

cottage which Denise maintains beautifully. She maintains a traditional

theme although some her foreign treasures gathered from her time

spent living in Africa and the Middle East add a more exotic feel.

Guests can choose from three self contained rooms with either a

double, twin or single bed. A cosy sitting room is also available for guest’s

use, complete with colour TV and video. Guests can also enjoy the

handsome dining room which houses the cottage’s large inglenook

fireplace. Breakfast is served here each day with fresh eggs from Denise’s

very own free range chickens. Evening meals are not normally provided as Denise highly recommends a

local restaurant specialising in delicious Cornish seafood. Please see website for more details.

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COLVENNOR FARMHOUSECury, nr Mullion, Helston, Cornwall TR12 7BJTel: 01326 241208 e-mail: [email protected]: www.colvennorfarmhouse.com

Approached by a short private lane, Colvennor is a lovingly restored former

farmhouse, fronted with dressed granite in classic Cornish style. Grade II listed with parts dating

back to the 17th Century and surrounded by open countryside offering glimpses over Mounts Bay

towards Penzance. There are two double rooms and one twin, all ensuite. Guests are welcome to

relax at their leisure in the large, peaceful garden. Breakfast is served in the attractive dining room

overlooking the front garden, fresh local produce is used wherever possible. The hosts aim to ensure

your visit to the Lizard and West Cornwall is as memorable as possible.

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HALZEPHRON HERB FARM3 Commercial Road, Porthleven, Cornwall TR13 9JDTel: 01326 554007

Halzephron Herb Farm uses organic Cornish herbs and other natural

ingedients in a unique range of marinades, sauces, mayos, dips,

dressings, seeds and preserves. The best known products are the

Garlic and Lemon mayonnaise, Cornish Herb salad dressing and

Cornish Ale chutney. Tastings are available daily and gift boxes and hampers can be made to order.

The Herb Farm started in 1995 at Helzephron House on the cliff top at Gunwalloe and is now at

Tregellast Barton Farm near St Keverne alongside Roskilly’s, Cornwall’s iconic producer of organic ice

cream and fudge.

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KOTA RESTAURANT AND ROOMSHarbour Head, Porthleven, Helston, Cornwall TR13 9JATel: 01326 562407e-mail: [email protected]: www.kotarestaurant.co.uk

Perfectly positioned at the head of the historic

harbour in the idyllic fishing port of

Porthleven, the Kota Restaurant has quickly

become one of the best-kept secrets in the

South West. Kota occupies a 300 year old

building and has a rustic edge, full of rough

brick and old wood and the imagined echo of

sea shanties.

Now in it’s forth year of trading, Kota is

proud to be recognized and has been praised

many times in both local and national

editorials, including The Times, The Guardian

and The Telegraph (Kota was named in the Top

50 Summer Restaurants in Britain in August 09,

and voted ‘The Big Eat’ in the top 10 pan-Asian

eateries July 2008).

This publicity, together with word of

mouth, attracts many locals, as well as foodies

from Padstow, Bristol and London seeking a

weekend of fun, fine dining and stunning

coastal walks.

Chef/owner Jude Kereama is a New

Zealander who has won awards for his

restaurants in both London and Auckland

before moving down to Cornwall. Kota

specializes in organic fish and farm produce

and has an exciting daily changing menu. Kota

is Maori for shellfish (Jude is half Maori,

quarter Chinese and quarter Malaysian) and the restaurant is

renowned for its stunning seafood with Jude’s signature light Asian

twist. Top quality produce is used, including organic wherever

possible to create unforgettable meal. Popular dishes on the menu

include seared Falmouth Bay scallops with belly of pork, cider apple

puree & soy ginger; pan fried lemon sole, roast turbot, duo of Duck

with a vegetable trio. Desserts are also a big hit here and include

mouth-watering choices of spice plum and lemon brulee, chocolate

fondant and rhubarb parfait.

Jude and his wife Jane, who started as a protégée of Antony

Worrall Thompson 15 years ago, are passionate about wine as well as

food and have created an enticing wine list of over 90 wines from all

over the world. Even Decanter Magazine has praised it!

There is a lovely bar area where guests can enjoy fine wine,

cocktails, cold beer or a warming digestif.

Awarded 3* by the AA, Kota offers two double rooms with ensuite

bathrooms - one is a spacious family room with double-fronted harbour views. The home smoked

salmon at breakfast is not to be missed! Late check outs often available. Don’t forget to book a

room so you can truly relax!

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CAFÉ MUNDO BAR7 Tregenna Hill, St Ives,Cornwall TR26 1SFTel: 01736 794532e-mail: [email protected]: www.cafemundobar.co.uk

Café Mundo is set amongst the narrow streets of

St Ives, a bustling seaside town with powder white

sandy beaches. Just 1 minutes walk from the rail

and bus station, Café Mundo is an ideal spot to

start your day with a cooked breakfast with local

sausage and hogs pudding, or to refuel with a

sandwich made from Warrens white or Granary bread,

or a loaded, grilled Panini with a European twist, and

hand cut chips. Take away is available, so drop in and

get your lunch/breakfast before you start your

journey or hit the beach!

Café Mundo offers an interesting and varied

menu including daily specials, hand picked Newlyn

crab, with lemon and black pepper and a West

Country smoked Mackerel salad with rustic baguette.

Gluten free options available where possible, and we

also have soya milk.

Food is served all day from 10am to 5pm.

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abode b&b

1 Fern Glen, St Ives, Cornwall TR26 1QPTel: 01736 799047 / 07773376080e-mail: [email protected]: www.abodestives.co.uk

St Ives has been voted as having some of the best beaches in the world, and some great restaurants

which sit right on the beach with fabulous views over soft yellow sands. Just a 10/15 minute walk

from the beach you will find abode, a relaxed b&b which is sure to impress.

Friendly hosts Anna and Simon offer a warm welcome to all, and their attention to detail and

knowledge of the area means guests can be assured of a pleasurable stay.

Having invested a considerable amount of time and hard work, the couple have renovated the

house to a very high standard, offering rooms with comfortable beds and crisp linen, en-suites with

powerful showers and fluffy towels. Each room is equipped with TV with freeview and DVD/CD,

hairdryer, shaving/toothbrush point, tea/

coffee making facilities, filtered bottled

water, corkscrew and Wi-Fi. A selection of

CDs, DVDs, books and board games are

available for guests’ use, along with ironing

facilities. Simon & Anna are more than

happy to chill your wine, champagne, beer

& soft drinks and welcome you to use their

ice maker to perfect your drink.

If guests can pull themselves away from

the comfortable bedrooms, the garden

offers an idyllic place to reflect on the day’s

events over a hot drink, with blankets to

snuggle into should it get chilly.

Breakfast here is a true treat, and locally

sourced ingredients are used as much as

possible. Guests can choose from a selection of

cereals, homemade Granola, freshly prepared fruit

platter, and fresh juice. You are spoilt for choice

when it comes to choosing from the cooked

selection, locally sourced and cooked to perfection,

you are sure to leave the table feeling like you can

tackle even the most eventful walk. If you depart

early Simon & Anna will provide a continental

breakfast tray, to help you enjoy your journey.

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THE ANCHORAGE BED & BREAKFAST5 Bunker’s Hill, St Ives, Cornwall TR26 1LJTel: 01736 797135 Mob: 07977 928540e-mail: [email protected]: www.anchoragestives.co.uk

St Ives is a small fishing village and an ideal place

to relax and unwind. It combines a sense of

timelessness with the contemporary and presents

both locals and visitors with something they relish

and want to revisit.

This can also be said of The Anchorage Bed &

Breakfast. It is a small guest house that dates

back to 1730; the Grade II listed property is full of

architectural and historical interest. Nestled in

the heart of the old artists and fishermen’s

quarter, all of the town’s beaches, shops and

restaurant are within easy reach. During the

evenings indulge at one of the many restaurants

and pubs, serving the freshest seafood and local

produce, fine wines and real ales.

The Anchorage is proud to provide comfortable

accommodation and excellent breakfasts, using

the freshest locally sourced ingredients wherever

possible. Breakfast choices include: a self-service

table with a selection of fresh fruit, fruit juices,

yoghurts and a variety of cereals, full Cornish

breakfast, smoked salmon & scrambled eggs,

Kippers with poached eggs as well as a vegetarian

option. The service here is courteous and

attentive without being formal.

St Ives with its many galleries including the

Tate and the South Western part of Cornwall have

so much to offer with world famous attractions

such as the Eden Project and Lands End, numerous

National Trust Gardens and many fascinating

animal sanctuaries like The Seal Sanctuary at

Gweek and Paradise Park, right on the doorstep.

Discovering this part of Cornwall will keep you

busy for many holidays whatever time of the year

you decide to visit!

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BLUE HAYES PRIVATE HOTELTrelyon Avenue, St Ives, Cornwall TR26 2ADTel: 01736 797129 Fax: 01736 799098e-mail: [email protected]: www.bluehayes.co.uk

Stay in style –

“A little piece of the South of France in St Ives”

Jutting out above Porthminster Point, the idyllic setting of this tranquil hotel provides visitors with

sweeping panoramas across St Ives Bay, from the Harbour to Godrevy lighthouse and the golden sands

of Hayle. On a clear day you can see Trevose Head, just north of Padstow.

With the coastal path at the bottom of the garden, it’s only five minute’s walk to Porthminster

Beach below, and ten minutes to the harbour.

Boasting a beautiful garden, white balustraded terrace fringed with palms, pond and pine trees,

it emits an escapist vibe. Lonely Planet dubs it “ A little piece of the South of France in St Ives” and

the acclaimed Hotel Guru lists it as one of their top ten in Cornwall. Recommended by Times

OnLine, The Independent, and even The New York Times – Blue Hayes Private Hotel offers exclusive

excellence.

The hotel has minimalist clean lines and sleek interior. All rooms are large and luxurious with

lavish accompaniments, from Molton Brown toiletries

to pocket-sprung mattresses, goose-down pillows –

every aspect smacks of sheer quality and

extravagance.

The high standard of all amenities and facilities

guarantee a comfortable, state-of-the-art stay. Every

room is equipped with baths, showers with double

body jets, television, radio, and wireless broadband.

With over fifty restaurants and places to eat in St

Ives, all within easy walking distance of the hotel,

many guests want to sample a different restaurant

each night. So Blue Hayes offers their guests

something different - a cold Supper menu with the

emphasis on local produce. Settle on the terrace and

watch the sun melt into the night sky, whilst enjoying

Tian Of Smoked Salmon & Cornish Crab or Lobster with

saffron and dill mayonnaise and a chilled bottle of

Chablis. The licensed Cocktail Bar has over sixty

cocktails, including Blue Hayes’ own creations – the

John Miller (named after the area’s famed artist),

Blue Hayes Colada, and Cornish Velvet.

Breakfast is served in the dining room, terrace or

your own room, and the extensive menu includes

homemade fruit compote, smoked salmon Benedict,

Cornish gammon steak, kedgeree, mackerel, and

smoked haddock.

Decadent, dreamy and utterly chic, you’ll be

smitten with this private piece of utopia. For total

relaxation, individual privacy and über smart

surrounds – the Blue Hayes Private Hotel is a heavenly

haven for sun seeking solace amidst spectacular

scenery.

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ANGARRACK INN12 Steamers Hill, Angarrack, nr Hayle,Cornwall TR27 5JBTel: 01736 752380

Tucked away in quaint Angarrack, close to Hayle, St Ives and

Penzance, is the only pub in the village aptly named the

Angarrack Inn. This traditional pub with charming beams and

plenty of character, provides locals and visitors with a well

stocked bar and hearty homecooked food created from scratch. The interior has a relaxed and

welcoming atmosphere, and the garden with ample seating allows visitors to enjoy their chosen meal

or beverage outside during warmer weather. Children and dogs are welcome.

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THE MOUNT HAVENHOTEL AND RESTAURANT

Turnpike road, Marazion, nr Penzance,Cornwall TR17 0DQTel: 01736 710249e-mail: [email protected]: www.mounthaven.co.uk

Recently named by CNN (American News Channel) as one of

the worlds top 9 secret hotels, The Mount Haven Hotel and

Restaurant offers an oasis of peace and tranquillity in a

contemporary, relaxed atmosphere. It is renowned

throughout the UK and around the world for its’ stylish

facilities and stunning location overlooking Mounts Bay

towards St Michaels Mount. This outstanding hotel boasts 18

superb, en-suite rooms, most with uninterrupted sea views

and balconies. Romantics can choose a four poster room

while the double deluxe room is available for total

indulgence! Whatever the choice, Mount Haven offers nothing but the best along with the warmest

of welcomes from dedicated owners Michael and Orange Trevillion. The hotel has its own holistic

treatment centre offering a range of therapies including reflexology, reiki and aromatherapy.

Guests will certainly taste the difference in the 2 AA rosette restaurant where award-winning

chefs create freshly prepared dishes for the remarkable menus. Main courses could include poached

sol, lobster tortellini, cavolo nero and jus crustace, or roast duck breast, black pudding hash,

poached duck egg with mustard and cider sauce.

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THE WHITE HARTChurchtown, Ludgvan, Cornwall TR20 8EYTel: 01736 740574e-mail: [email protected]

The pretty town of Churchtown is just a stone’s throw from

Mount’s Bay and the famous St Michael’s Mount, with Penzance,

St Ives, just ten minutes away. It’s also home to The White Hart,

a vibrant, yet historic 13th century village inn, known for its

warm welcome, fine food and premium spirits.

Andrew and Beverley Hay have been in the trade for many

years, taking over the inn in July 2010. They have decorated to

high standards throughout whilst keeping with the buildings

period theme. They also own a distillery in France called Gireau

which produces upmarket and house spirits of which they stock

many at the inn, alongside a good range of other wines, ales and

lagers. The menu focuses on a fusion of traditional and

contemporary British cuisine with fresh ingredients supplied locally, including fresh fish from the

Newlyn Market. Daily specials change each day to reflect the best in seasonal produce, with

favourites including pan fried beef fillet in peppercorn sauce and pork loin with apple, pear, stilton

and a honey jus. Food is available between 12-2:30pm and 6-9:30pm, but the inn opens all days on

weekends and longer in the summer months. Various speciality evenings are often held with events

including cooking competitions, quizzes, ladies luncheons and live entertainment, guaranteed to get

the local community together and mixing with visitors of all ages.

For those wanting to make the inn their base for exploring Cornwall, there are two lovely guest

rooms available. Please call for details.

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WAYSIDE FOLK MUSEUMZennor, nr St Ives, Cornwall TR26 3DATel: 01736 796945website: www.chycor.co.uk/tourism/zenor_museum/zenor_museum.htm

In the 1930s Colonel ‘Freddie’ Hirst started a collection of relics peculiar to Zennor. That collection

was the basis of the Wayside Folk Museum, a privately owned museum which portrays the lives of

ordinary people in the area through its displays of artefacts, stories and photographs. Inside 16

display areas contain more than

5,000 items including

blacksmith’s and wheelwright’s

equipment, a cobbler’s shop, an

18th century kitchen, relics of

local mining and quarrying and

early agricultural implements. In

the grounds are two waterwheels

from the mining industry and a

unique collection of corn

grinding querns and stone tools

dating back as far as 3000 BC.

Bridge House Gift & Book Shop

specialises in things Cornish as

well as providing light

refreshments.

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WAVE’S CAFÉ BAR29-30 Causeway Head, Penzance, Cornwall TR18 2SPTel: 01736 600014

Wave’s Café Bar has built a reputation for offering exceptionally high quality and interesting cuisine.

Owners Darren and Paul recently gained recognition for the quality of their service, food & drink and

were awarded a prestigious Gold Healthy Eating Award. This accolade celebrates Wave’s high

standards in hygiene, quality and provision of healthy eating options.

Wave’s Café Bar is housed in a beautiful old chapel that was extended in 1926 when it was given

the high art deco

façade that you see

today. And it’s made

even more special by

the fact that it is the

only remaining

example of a 1930s

store left in the town.

Situated near the

top of Causeway

Head, the café bar is

surrounded by an

eclectic mix of

independent stores

and has large windows

looking out onto this

pleasant pedestrian

precinct. Wave’s is

the perfect

destination to simply

relax and take some time over an enjoyable

coffee or put the day behind you with a drink

of Polgoon Cornish wine.

A full and varied breakfast menu is

available from 9am until 11am or 1pm on

Sundays; the sausages, bacon and eggs are all

Cornish and organic (vegetarian alternatives

are also available). Lunches are served from

11am onwards and there’s a varied selection

of homemade soups, savouries, pastas,

gourmet burgers and local fish. Also, added

to the regular menu there are daily specials,

which are often vegetarian or fish based and

again all ingredients are sourced from Newlyn

harbour just minutes down the road.

Wave’s Café Bar can be privately booked

for your birthday, anniversary, christening,

wedding or any other function for up to fifty

covers. Open everyday even Sundays.

Whatever the reason for your visit,

whether it’s for the fair trade coffee, Tea Pig

speciality teas, breakfasts or hearty lunches

you can always be assured of a warm

welcome at Wave’s Café Bar.

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BLUE BAY CAFEWharfside Shopping Centre, Penzance,Cornwall TR18 2GBTel: 01736 350483e-mail: [email protected]: www.bluebaycafe.co.uk

Situated in the popular town of Penzance,

just off the town centre is the much loved

Blue Bay Cafe. The main car park is

directly opposite which makes the Blue

Bay perfect for a cup of coffee on arrival

or a light lunch or afternoon tea before

leaving.

The cafe is owned and run by Anne

Lord, a friendly host who offers all her

visitors a warm welcome, and the modern

and contemporary style creates a relaxed

atmosphere in which to dine. Breakfasts,

light lunches, seafood dishes and

afternoon teas keep locals and tourists

returning time and time again. The

selection of homemade cakes and desserts

are all baked by Anne, and her customers

are extremely fond of the homemade

scones which can be enjoyed alone, or as

a cream tea. During the summer the cafe

offers a tapas style menu which has

proved extremely popular.

The cafe is fully licensed and there is

a comprehensive choice of wines to

compliment a chosen meal or snack.

During the warmer months guests are able

to enjoy their food and drink outside on

the pleasant terrace.

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THE HONEY POT5 Parade Street, Penzance, Cornwall TR18 4BUTel: 01736 368686

The Honey Pot is situated just along from the Acorn Theatre

near the famous Chapel Street in the heart of Penzance’s

picturesque old town. It is renowned by both locals and

visitors from further afield, who rave about the unbeatable

home cooking and the warmth and friendliness which it’s

staff exude.

The café is owned and run by Kathy Hawkins who is ably

assisted by a small local team of hardworking individuals

who are knowledgeable about the local area, making any

trip here a worthwhile one.

The menu is varied and focuses on using as much locally

sourced produce as possible. Kathy’s passion is world food,

and this shows right from breakfast time when fresh pain au

chocolat and croissants are offered alongside cinnamon toast

with Greek thyme honey or maple syrup, served with coffees from Origin.

At lunchtime a host of homemade soups and dishes including tarts, lasagnes,

jacket potatoes and salads, or mezze platters and gourmet sandwiches are served. Although not

licensed to sell alcohol, guests are invited to bring their own wine if they wish. During the afternoon

cakes and treats top the bill, including Strawberry Pavlova, Chocolate Ganache Cake and Lemon &

Lime cheesecake, alongside generous cream teas with local clotted cream. Pure indulgence- all

homemade and simply delicious!

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Photos: Ocean-Image.com

NUMBER NINE9 Regent Square, Penzance, Cornwall TR18 4BGTel: 01736 369715 / 07855427764e-mail: [email protected]: www.numberninepenzance.com

Nestled peacefully in a very elegant area of Penzance, is Number

Nine. This unique bed and breakfast offers comfortable

accommodation in a lovely Georgian house, close to the sea and

the Penzance Promenade. The property has one charming double bedroom with ensuite, and has the

additional benefit of a separate private sitting room / dining room with a real log fire for guests

exclusive use during their stay. Number Nine is minutes away from popular pubs and restaurants and

Jane is happy to recommend her favourites.

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COUNTRY COUSINS CAFÉUnit 2, 61-62 Chapel Street, Penzance, Cornwall TR18 4AETel: 01736 333597e-mail: [email protected]

Chapel Street in Penzance is famous for its beautiful architecture and eclectic range of superb shops

and eateries. Amongst this fine collection is Country Cousins Café which lies in a handsome building

that was once part of the old market. Inside the light and airy space is complemented by a sunny

disposition, highlighting its original wooden beams above.

The café is owned by Wayne Colyer who had worked at the café for eight years as a professional

chef, when two years ago his brother joined him in buying the café and they have run it together

since then. The brothers specialise in wholesome English food and attract a host of regular customers

throughout the week who enjoy their traditional flavours. On the weekends however the café is a

popular haunt with younger clientele who take full advantage of the café’s range of delicious

breakfasts which provide ample rescue from the

excesses of the night before. Dishes include a full

English breakfast served all day, with lunches

including succulent homemade roasts, steak pies, a

variety of filled jacket potatoes and fresh salads,

sandwiches and light snacks. In the summer

months Wayne uses his baking skills to create a

selection of mouth-watering cakes, perfect for

afternoon tea.

They open from 9:30am-3:30pm Monday-

Saturday all year round.

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JESSIE’S DAIRY11 Fore Street, Mousehole TR19 6TQTel: 01736 732192

Here at Jessie’s Dairy we specialise in home made produce and are well

known for our delicious traditional Cornish pasties and cream teas. We

are proud to be members of the Cornish Pasty Association. All food is

made to order using local produce wherever possible and you will find

gluten and wheat free soup and cakes on the menu. We always have at

least fourteen varieties of wonderful Roskilly’s Ice Cream which is made

at St Keverne on the Lizard Peninsula. Roskilly’s fudge, Kernow chocolate and Halzephron Herb Farm

produce can also be purchased. There is a lovely sheltered walled garden where you can sit, relax

and enjoy your coffee, lunch or afternoon tea. Dogs are very welcome.

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THE CORNISH RANGE RESTAURANTWITH ROOMS

6 Chapel Street, Mousehole, Cornwall TR19 6SBTel: 01736 731488e-mail: [email protected]: www.cornishrange.co.uk

If you enjoy excellent food in relaxed & comfortable surroundings,

then a visit to The Cornish Range in Mousehole is a must.

The Cornish Range is owned and run by Keith & Tiffany Terry, a

friendly & welcoming couple who’s priority is to please their

customers.

Keith has twenty years experience as a professional chef,

obtaining a 2 Rosette rating for the restaurant. His imaginative

dishes are created from locally sourced produce, fresh fish daily

from Newlyn, Cornish vegetables & cheeses and locally reared

meat.

The service is first class and unobtrusive with an extensive wine list including ciders & wines

produced in Cornwall. The menu is such that it is difficult to choose a dish as they all sound as

equally mouth-watering! For example: Grilled mackerel fillets with rosemary, horseradish & lemon

cream. Melted goats cheese on a marinated beef tomato salad & purple basil jam. Whole grilled

Megrim sole with crab & dill butter. Poached flaked salmon with Newlyn crab, pea & wild rice

risotto, crème fraiche & sweet pepper sauce. Slow roasted pork shoulder, braised red cabbage, herb

potatoes & apple and thyme gravy…..the list goes on!

The Cornish Range also has accommodation available. There are three beautiful 4 star en-suite

rooms, light & modern with every convenience. The rooms are named with connections to local

artists. “Ambrose”, after Ambrose Ruffigniac, who as a boy in the late 19th century modelled for

Newlyn based artist Henry Scott Tuke. “Tuke” therefore is another room name, and “Pender” after

Jack Pender, the famous Mousehole artist whose studio was this room.

The Cornish art theme follows through in the restaurant with paintings displayed on the walls by

local artist Chris Thompson.

Coffees and delicious cakes can be served during the day in either the restaurant or the very

pretty tiered garden to the rear of the restaurant. Brunch is available from 10 am and it is

recommended that you book during weekends and most evenings throughout the summer months.

Finally there are many delightful aspects to recommend a visit to the Cornish Range but the only

way to fully appreciate it is to go & experience it, you won’t be disappointed!

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THE COOK BOOK4 Cape Cornwall Street, St Just, Penwith, Cornwall TR19 7JZTel: 01736 787266e-mail: [email protected]: www.thecookbookstjust.co.uk

Since it opened in 2003 The Cook Book has

become a way of life for its owners rather than

just a business. David and Philippa James have

worked hard to combine their love of food and

books in this unusual venture. The Cook Book is a

popular café and one of Cornwall’s most

fascinating second-hand book shops.

The book side of the business is known as

Bosorne Books. There are over 5000 second-hand

books, sorted by genre, in three rooms upstairs

and a more eclectic section downstairs.

Bookworms enjoy a wide selection, from Pinocchio

to Plato, including art, history, military, natural

history, poetry, children’s books, paperback

fiction, and many books about Cornwall. David

and Philippa’s interest in books extends further,

with a book binding, restoration and repair service

run by Rebecca Vosper.

Downstairs in the café, visitors are welcomed

by bright and cheerful staff who engage fully with

all aspects of the business. David and Philippa

believe that all guests to the Cook Book should be

treated as if they were visitors to their own home.

The café is simply but pleasantly furnished with a

coffee bar in one room and five round tables in

the dining room.

They are reliably informed by their customers

that their coffee is simply the best, and goes

particularly well with one of their speciality

breakfasts, served all day. These include fresh

free range Cornish eggs, local sausages from St

Just, Cornish mushrooms and much more. The

menu includes baguettes, paninis, home baked

ham and other salads, and delicious home-made

soup. Soups depend on the availability of seasonal

vegetables and the ingenuity of the cook. Cakes

and scones are baked for the café by Julie

Chapple who specialises in dried apricot and

almond, fantastic chocolate fudge and coffee and

walnut that vanishes as soon as it’s made. The

Cook Book ‘Cheese Tea’ is an excellent twist on

the traditional cream tea, also available.

Where possible ingredients are sourced locally.

The Cook Book was awarded

the CHEFS Gold Award in February 2011.

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TREWELLARD ARMSTrewellard, Penzance, Cornwall TR19 7TATel: 01736 788634e-mail: [email protected]

Situated at Trewellard, the lovely Trewellard Arms has been frequented by travellers and tourists for

many years. Formerly cottages, the now popular free house was taken over by owners Martin and Gill

Hutchings in August 2007. The couple have refurbished the downstairs bar and dining areas and have

created new sociable spaces to enjoy, which has enticed even more visitors.

Decorated traditionally and

with a homely and welcoming feel,

the free house has many features,

which makes it the perfect place

to visit, as it caters for everyone’s

needs. Great food is served, real

ales, wonderful beer garden,

games (such as darts) and a great

atmosphere, which is provided by

the tentative hosts.

Food is served daily from 12-

3pm and 6-9pm in the winter. In

the summer months lunches are

served from 12 noon until 3pm,

cream teas & snacks from 3-6pm &

an evening dinner menu from 6-

9.30pm. On Sundays there is a

traditional roast served and

bookings are required. The ingredients used are mostly sourced locally and dishes such as Trewellard

chicken supreme, Trewellard mixed grill and daily fish specials are regular favourites. All meals are

delicious and there is something to suit even the pickiest of tastes. The Trewellard Arms also caters

for children, making it a great visit for families.

As many as 5 real ales are served here, with sharp’s doom bar being the regular and a number of

ever changing locally brewed and national ales rotating as guests. The whisky menu offers a choice

of over 40 malt whiskies. There is also the opportunity to enjoy a locally brewed local cider, which is

delicious and enjoyed by many.

There is much to enjoy at the Trewellard Arms and plenty of events to add to your annual diary.

One of which is the beer festival, which takes place at the end of April or the first weekend of May.

Here there are up to 40 real ales as well as extra real ciders, all accompanied by live music. The

weekend is a must for any beer lover and it is set in wonderful and relaxing atmosphere.

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BODMIN

Shire Hall, Mount Folly, Bodmin, PL31 2DQ

Tel: (01208) 76616 Fax: (01208) 75466

e-mail: [email protected]

website: www.bodminlive.com

BOSCASTLE

The Harbour, Boscastle, PL35 0HD

Tel: (01840) 250010 Fax: (01840) 250901


website: www.visitboscastleandtintagel.com

BUDE

The Crescent Car Park, Bude, EX23 8LE

Tel: (01288) 354240 Fax: (01288) 355769


website: www.visitbude.info

CAMELFORD

North Cornwall Museum, The Clease,

Camelford, PL32 9PL

Tel: (01840) 212954 Fax: (01840) 212954


FALMOUTH

11 Market Strand, Prince of Wales Pier,

Falmouth, TR11 3DF

Tel: (01326) 312300 Fax: (01326) 313457


website: www.discoverfalmouth.co.uk

FOWEY

5 South Street, Fowey, PL23 1AR

Tel: (01726) 833616 Fax: (01726) 834939


website: www.fowey.co.uk

HAYLE

Hayle Library, Commercial Road, Hayle, TR27 4DE

Tel: 01736 754399


TOURIST INFORMATION

CENTRES

LAUNCESTON

Market House Arcade, Market Street,

Launceston, PL15 8EP

Tel: (01566) 772321 Fax: (01566) 772322


website: www.visitlaunceston.co.uk

LISKEARD

Foresters Hall, Pike Street, Liskeard, PL14 3JE

Tel: (01579) 349148


website: www.liskeard.gov.uk

LOOE

The Guildhall, Fore Street, East Looe, PL13 1AA

Tel: (01503) 262072 Fax: (01503) 265426


website: www.visit-southeastcornwall.co.uk

LOSTWITHIEL

Lostwithiel Community Centre, Liddicoat Road,

Lostwithiel, PL22 0HE

Tel: (01208) 872207 Fax: (01208) 872207


website: www.lostwithieltouristinformation.webs.com

MEVAGISSEY

St Georges Square, Mevagissey, PL26 6UB

Tel: (01726) 844440


website: www.mevagissey-cornwall.co.uk

NEWQUAY

Municipal Offices, Marcus Hill, Newquay, TR7 1BD

Tel: (01637) 854020


website: www.visitnewquay.org

PADSTOW

Red Brick Building, North Quay, Padstow, PL28 8AF

Tel: (01841) 533449 Fax: (01841) 532356


website: www.padstowlive.com

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PERRANPORTH

Westcott House, St Pirans Road,

Perranporth, TR6 0BH

Tel: (01872) 575254 Fax: (01872) 572971


website: www.perranporthinfo.co.uk

REDRUTH

Visitor Information Point, The Cornwall Centre, Alma

Place, Redruth, TR15 2AT

Tel: (01209) 216760 (Cornish Studies Library)

Fax: (01209) 210283


website: www.cornwall.gov.uk

ST AGNES

18 Vicarage Road, St Agnes, TR5 0TL

Tel: (01872) 554150 Fax: (01872) 554150


website: www.st-agnes.com

ST AUSTELL

By Pass Service Station, Southbourne Road,

St Austell, PL25 4RS

Tel: (01726) 879500 Fax: (01726) 874168


website: www.visitthecornishriviera.co.uk

ST IVES

The Guildhall, St Ives

Tel: (01736) 796297

ST JUST

The Library, Market Street, St Just,

Penzance, TR19 7HX

Tel: (01736) 788165


website: www.visit-westcornwall.com

ST MAWES

The Roseland Visitor Centre, The Millennium Rooms,

The Square, St Mawes, TR2 5AG

Tel: (01326) 270440


website: www.stmawesandtheroseland.co.uk

TINTAGEL VISITOR CENTRE

Bossiney Road, Tintagel, PL34 0AJ

Tel: (01840) 779084 Fax: (01840) 779295


website: www.visitboscastleandtintagel.com

TRURO

Municipal Buildings, Boscawen Street,

Truro, TR1 2NE

Tel: (01872) 274555 Fax: (01872) 263031


website: www.tourism.truro.gov.uk

TOURIST INFORMATION

CENTRES

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Crooklets Beach, Bude © William Wells pg 9

Bude Canal, Bude © Tony Atkin pg 10

St Olafs Parish Church, Poughill © Neil Lewin pg 11

Vicarage Cliffs, Morwenstow © Humphrey Bolton pg 12

St Swithins Church, Launcells © Pierre Terre pg 13

Blackrock, Widemouth Bay © High View pg 15

Old Post Office, Tintagel © Mark Collins pg 16

Above the Village, Boscastle © Richard Law pg 17

Beach, Crackington Haven © Chris Downer pg 18

Bridge over River Camel, Slaughterbridge

© Andy F pg 19

Slate Quarry, Delabole © Martin Bodman pg 20

Steam Railway, Launceston © Mick Heraty pg 21

Dozmary Pool, Bolventor © Nick McNeill pg 23

St Nonna’s Church, Altarnun © Michael Murray pg 24

The Jail, Bodmin © Ron Strutt pg 28

The Gatehouse, Lanhydrock

© Sarah Charlesworth pg 29

Camel Valley Vineyard, Nanstallon © Ron Allday pg 30

The Royal Albert Bridge, Saltash

© Shaun Ferguson pg 31

Kit Hill, Callington © Sarah Charlesworth pg 32

Cotehele House, Calstock © Adrian Platt pg 33

Morwellham Quay, Calstock © Martin Bodman pg 34

French Gardens, Mount Edgcumbe © Tony Atkin pg 35

Beach, Kingsand © Philip Halling pg 36

Port Eliot House, St Germans © Rod Allday pg 37

Looe Harbour , Looe © Pam Brophy pg 38

Stone Circle, Duloe © Philip Halling pg 40

Si John Betjeman’s Grave, St Enodoc

© Neil Kennedy pg 43

Harbour, Port Isaac © Amanda King pg 44

Long Cross Victorian Gardens, Trelights

© Andrew Longton pg 45

Inner Harbour, Padstow © Gary Radford pg 47

Parish Church, St Issey © Tony Atkin pg 48

Beach, Bedruthan Steps © David Hawgood pg 49

Tolcarne Beach, Newquay © Derek Harper pg 51

Surfing at Fistral Beach, Newquay

© Geoff Tydeman pg 52

Bridge, Porth Beach © Geoff Welding pg 53

Castle-an-Dinas, St Columb Major © Steve Rigg pg 55

IMAGE COPYRIGHT HOLDERSSome images in this book have been supplied by http://www.geograph.org.uk and

licensed under the Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike 2.0 Generic License. To view

a copy of this license, visit http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/2.0/ or send a

letter to Creative Commons, 171 Second Street, Suite 300, San Francisco, California,

94105, USA.

COPYRIGHT HOLDERS ARE AS FOLLOWS:

Roche Rock and Chapel, Roche © Colin Park pg 56

East Wheal Rose, St Newlyn East © Malcolm Kewn pg 57

Wheal Coates, St Agnes © Richard Rogerson pg 59

St Piran’s Cross, Perranporth © Gary Rogers pg 61

St Piran’s Round, Rose © Rod Allday pg 62

Town Quay, Fowey © Martin Bodman pg 64

Inner Harbour, Polperro © Alan Fleming pg 66

Daymark, Gribbin Head © Tony Atkin pg 67

Pine Lodge Gardens, St Austell © Mark Percy pg 70

The Harbour, Mevagissey © Derek Harper pg 74

Cathedral, Truro © Richard Rogerson pg 75

Trewithen House, Probus © Stuart Logan pg 77

Round Houses, Veryan © Tony Atkin pg 78

House and Gardens, Trelissick © Fred James pg 80

Looking towards Flushing, Penryn River

© Rod Allday pg 83

Godrevy Island, Godrevy Point © Ray Beer pg 85

Gwennap Pit, Gwennap © David Gearing pg 86

Stithians Reservoir, Stithians © Rod Allday pg 88

Grylls Monument, Helston © Tony Atkin pg 89

Flora Dance, Helston © Rod Allday pg 90

Lifeboat Station, Lizard © Pam Brophy pg 92

Fallen Tree, Frenchman’s Creek © Mel Landells pg 93

The Harbour, Coverack © Trevor Harris pg 95

Wireless Station, The Lizard © Robin Lucas pg 96

Kynance Cove, The Lizard © Philip Halling pg 97

The Harbour, Porthleven © Rob Davies pg 99

The Beach, Gwithian © Philip Halling pg 103

St Michaels Mount, Marazion © Sheila Russell pg 105

View Westwards, Zennor Head © Tony Atkin pg 107

Egyptian House, Penzance © Tony Atkin pg 108

Harbour Lighthouse, Penzance © Amanda King pg 109

Harbour Lighthouse, Mousehole

© Martin Bodman pg 110

Lamorna Cove, Lamorna © Richard Knights pg 111

Minack Theatre, Porthcurno © Pennie Winkler pg 112

The Cliffs, Land’s End © Roger Butterfield pg 113

Sennen Cove, Sennen © Richard Knights pg 114

Engine House, Botallack © Michael Parry pg 116

Chysauster Ancient Village, New Mill

© Paul Allison pg 117

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INDEX OF TOWNS, VILLAGES AND

PLACES OF INTEREST

A

ALTARNUN 24

Cathedral of the Moors 24

Old Rectory 24

B

BEDRUTHAN STEPS 49

Bedruthan Steps 49

Queen Bess Rock 49

Samaritan Island 49

BLISLAND 30

St Protus and St Hyacinth Parish

Church 30

BODINNICK 65

Bodinnick Car Ferry 65

Hall Walk 65

BODMIN 27

Bodmin and Wenford Railway 28

Bodmin Jail 28

Bodmin Town Museum 27

Courtroom Experience 27

Gilbert Memorial 27

St Mary’s Church 28

St Petroc’s Parish Church 28

The Duke of Cornwall’s Light

Infantry Regimental M 27

BODMIN MOOR 22

Brown Willy 23

Fernacre Stone Circle 23

Roughtor 23

The Hurlers 22

Trethevy Quoit 22

BOLVENTOR 23

Dozmary Pool 23

Jamaica Inn 23

Jan Tregeagle 23

Smuggler’s Museum 23

BOSCASTLE 17

Devil’s Bellows 17

Museum of Witchcraft 17

Penally Point 17

BOSSINEY 16

Bossiney Haven 17

Bossiney Mound 16

BOTALLACK 115

Botallack Mine 115

BRANE 114

Bartinney Castle 115

Bartinney Downs 115

Carn Euny 114

Fogou 114

BREAGE 99

St Breaca Parish Church 99

BUDE 9

Bude Canal 10

Bude Canal Trail 10

Bude Carnival 11

Bude Castle 10

Bude Castle Heritage Centre 10

Royal National Lifeboat Institution

9

South West Coastal Path 10

BUGLE 71

C

CADGWITH 96

Devil’s Frying Pan 96

The Todden 96

CALLINGTON 31

Cadsonbury Hillfort 32

Callington Heritage Centre 32

Dupath Chapel 32

Dupath Well 32

Mural Trail 32

CALSTOCK 33

Cotehele House 33

Cotehele Quay 34

Morwellham Quay 34

Water Mill 34

CAMBORNE 84

Camborne Library 84

Literary Institute 84

Richard Trevithick’s 85

School of Mines 85

St Martin & St Meriadocus Parish

Church 84

Town Trail 84

Trevithick Cottage 85

Trevithick Day Festival 85

CAMELFORD 19

Arthurian Centre 19

British Cycling Museum 19

North Cornwall Museum 19

North Cornwall Museum and

Gallery 19

Slaughterbridge 19

CARBIS BAY 103

CARDINHAM 29

Cardinham Castle 29

Cardinham Woods 29

Pinsla Garden & Nursery 29

St Meubred’s Parish Church 29

CARLYON BAY 72

St Austell Bay 72

CARNE 79

Carne Beacon 79

CARTHEW 70

Wheal Martyn China Clay Museum

and Country Park 70

CAWSAND 36

CHARLESTOWN 72

Charlestown Shipwreck & Heritage

Centre 72

CONSTANTINE 92

St Constantine Parish Church 92

COVERACK 95

CRACKINGTON HAVEN 18

High Cliff 18

The Strangles 18

Trevigue 19

CRANTOCK 58

St Carantoc Parish Church 58

The Old Albion 58

CREMYLL 35

Mount Edgcumbe House 35

CUTMADOC 28

Lanhydrock House 28

D

DELABOLE 20

Delabole Slate Quarry 20

DULOE 39

Duloe Stone Circle 39

Duloe Torque 40

DURGAN 89

Trebah Garden 89

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F

FALMOUTH 81

Custom House Quay 82

Falmouth Art Gallery 83

Fox Rosehill 82

Gyllyngdune 82

Gyllyngvase Beach 82

Kimberley Park 82

National Maritime Museum

Cornwall 82

Pendennis Castle 81

Queen Mary 82

Queen’s Pipe 82

Ships and Castles Leisure Centre

83

Swanpool Nature Reserve 83

FEOCK 81

Restronguet Point 81

FLUSHING 81

FOWEY 63

Fowey Royal Regatta 64

Hall Walk 64

Literary Centre 63

Place House 63

Readymoney Cove 64

Saints’ Way 63

Ship Inn 63

St Catherine’s Castle 64

St Fimbarrus Parish Church 63

The Haven 64

Town Hall 63

Tristan Stone 64

G

GERMOE 100

St Germoe’s Chair 100

St Germoe’s Parish Church 100

GODOLPHIN CROSS 103

Godolphin House 103

GODREVY POINT 85

Godrevy Island 85

Navax Point 85

GOLANT 67

Castle Dore Earthworks 67

St Sampson’s Parish Church 67

GOLDSITHNEY 105

GOONHILLY DOWNS 95

GORRAN HAVEN 75

Church of St Just 75

Dodman Point 75

Great Perhaver Beach 75

St Gorran Parish Church 75

GRIBBIN HEAD 67

Daymark Tower 67

Menabilly House 67

Polridmouth Cove 67

GUNNISLAKE 32

New Bridge 33

GUNWALLOE 98

Church Cove 98

St Winwaloe’s Parish Church 98

GWEEK 91

National Seal Sanctuary 92

GWENNAP 86

Gwennap Pit 86

GWITHIAN 103

The Towans 103

H

HAYLE 104

Paradise Park 104

HELFORD 93

Frenchman’s Creek 93

Morgawr 93

HELFORD PASSAGE 89

HELSTON 89

Angel House 90

Blue Anchor Inn 90

Coronation Park & Boating Lake

90

Culdrose 91

Flambards 91

Flora Dance 90

Guildhall 90

Helston Folk Museum 90

Loe Bar 89

Loe Pool 89

National Museum of Gardening 91

Penrose Estate 90

St Michael’s Parish Church 90

Trevarno Estate and Gardens 91

HOLYWELL 57

Holywell Bay 58

Holywell Bay Fun Park 58

Holywell Bay Golf Club 57

I

INDIAN QUEENS 55

Screech Owl Sanctuary 56

K

KENIDJACK 116

Carn Kenidjack 116

KESTLE MILL 56

Lawnmower Museum 57

KILKHAMPTON 12

St James’s Parish Church 12

KINGSAND 36

KIT HILL 32

Battle of Hingston Down 32

KYNANCE COVE 97

Albert Rock 97

Asparagus Island 97

Devil’s Bellow 97

Rill Point 97

L

LAMORNA 111

Lamorna Cove 111

Merry Maidens 111

The Pipers 111

LAND’S END 113

Land’s End 113

Longships Lighthouse 113

Wolf Rock Lighthouse 113

LANEAST 21

St Sidwell and St Gulvat Parish

Church 22

LANREATH 40

LANSALLOS 66

St Ildierna’s Parish Church 66

LANTEGLOS-BY-FOWEY 65

St Wyllow’s Parish Church 65

LAUNCELLS 13


PLACES OF INTEREST

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LAUNCESTON 20

Launceston Castle 20

Launceston Steam Railway 21

Lawrence House Museum 21

St Mary Magdalene Parish Church

21

LELANT 103

St Michael’s Way 103

St Uny’s Parish Church 103

LERRYN 69

St Veep Parish Church 69

LISKEARD 40

Guildhall 41

Liskeard and District Museum 41

Liskeard and Looe Union Canal 41

Looe Valley Line 41

Pipe Well 41

St Martin’s Parish Church 41

Stuart House 41

LITTLE PETHERICK 49

Obelisk 49

LIZARD 96

Lizard Lighthouse 96

Lizard Lighthouse Heritage Centre

97

Lizard Point 96

The Lizard Wireless Station 97

LIZARD PENINSULA 92

South West Coast Path 92

LOOE 38

Kilminorth Woods 39

Looe Island 38

Monkey Sanctuary 39

Old Guildhall Museum 38

LOSTWITHIEL 67

Boconnoc Estate 69

Braddock Down 68

Coulson Park 68

Great Hall 68

Lostwithiel Museum 68

Restormel Castle 68, 69

St Bartholomew Parish Church 68

LUXULYAN 71

Treffry Viaduct 71

M

MADRON 117

Chun Quoit 117

Lanyon Quoit 117

Men-an-Tol 117

St Maddern’s Cell 117

St Maddern’s Parish Church 117

St Maddern’s Well 117

MAKER 35

St Julian’s Well 35

MARAZION 105

Chapel of St Michael 106

Chapel Rock 106

Marazion Marsh 105

Marazion Town Museum 105

St Michael’s Mount Castle 106

MARHAMCHURCH 14

St Marwenne’s Parish Church 14

MAWGAN 93

Halliggye Fogou 93

St Mawgan Parish Church 93

Trelowarren House 93

MAWGAN PORTH 53

St Mawgan Parish Church 54

MAWNAN 88

Rosemullion Head 89

St Mawnan Parish Church 88

MAWNAN SMITH 88

Carwinion 88

Giant’s Stride 88

Glendurgan 88

Heade Maze 88

MEVAGISSEY 74

Inner Harbour 74

Mevagissey Museum 74

Outer Harbour 74

The Aquarium 75

World of Model Railways 74

MINIONS 25

Minions Heritage Centre 25

Rillaton Barrow 25

The Hurlers 25

MORWENSTOW 11

Welcombe and Marsland Valleys

Nature Reserve 12

MOUSEHOLE 110

Merlin’s Rock 110

Mousehole Wild Bird Hospital 111

Penlee Lifeboat Disaster Memorial

111

Squire Keigwin 110

St Clement’s Isle 110

Stargazy Pie 110

Mullion 97

MULLION COVE 97

St Mallenus Parish Church 97

Wheal Unity 98

MYLOR BRIDGE 81

Celtic Cross 81

St Mylor Parish Church 81

N

NANSTALLON 30

Camel Valley Vineyards 30

NEW MILL 117

Chysauster Ancient Village 117

NEWLYN 109

Newlyn Art Gallery 110

Newlyn Fish Festival 109

Newlyn School 110

NEWQUAY 51

Blue Reef Aquarium 52

Buccaneer Bay 51

DairyLand Farm World 53

Fistral Beach 52

Great Western 52

Huer’s Hut 51

Lane Theatre 51

National Surfing Centre Surf

School 52

Newquay Airport 53

Newquay Zoo 53

Porth Island 51

Run to the Sun Festival 52

Tolcarne 52

Towan Beach 52

Trenance Gardens 52

Watergate Bay 52

Waterworld 52

NORTH PETHERWIN 22

Tamar Otter & Wildlife Centre 22


PLACES OF INTEREST

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P

PADSTOW 46

Abbey House 48

Camel Trail 46

Doom Bar 46

Harbour 48

Harbour Cottage 48

National Lobster Hatchery 48

Prideaux Place 47

Raleigh’s Court House 48

Saints Way 46, 47

St Petroc Major Parish Church 47

PAR 72

Little Hell Cove 72

Par Sands 72

PELYNT 40

Parish Church of St Nonna 40

PENDEEN 116

Geevor Tin Mine and Heritage

Centre 116

Levant Beam Engine 116

Levant Mine 116

Pendeen Lighthouse 116

Portheras Cove 117

PENHALE CAMP 61

Langarroc 61

PENHALLOW 62

Cider Museum 63

Cornish Cyder Farm 62

PENRYN 83

Camborne School of Mines 83

Geological Museum 84

PENTEWAN 73

All Saints Parish Church 73

Lost Gardens of Heligan 73

Pentewan Beach 73

Pentewan Valley 74

PENZANCE 107

Egyptian House 108

Golowan Festival 109

Jubilee Pool 109

Market House 108

Penlee House Gallery and Museum

109

Penzance Town Trail 107

The Union Hotel 108

Trewidden Garden 109

PERRANPORTH 61

Millennium Sundial 61

Perranzabuloe Folk Museum 61

St Piran’s Cross 61

The Oratory of St Piran 61

PERRANUTHNOE 104

Cudden Point 104

Parish Church of St Piran 104

Perran Sands 104

Victoria Inn 104

Village Crafts and Cornish Wools

104

POLDHU POINT 98

Marconi Centre 98

Marconi Monument 98

POLPERRO 65

Chapel Hill 66

Couch’s House 65

Harbour 65

House on the Props 65

Polperro Heritage Museum of

Smuggling and Fishing 66

St Tallan Parish Church 66

Talland Bay 66

Willy Willcock’s Hole 66

POLRUAN 66

Polruan Blockhouse 66

POLSCOE 69

POLTESCO 95

Carleon Cove 95

POLZEATH 43

Pentire Point 44

Rumps Point 44

POOL 86

Cornish Mines and Engines 86

Cornwall Industrial Discovery

Centre 86

Michell’s Engine House 86

Taylor’s Shaft 86

PORT GAVERNE 45

PORT ISAAC 44

PORT QUIN 44

Doyden Point 44

PORTH 53

Trevelgue Head 53

PORTHALLOW 94

Nare Point 95

PORTHCOTHAN 49

Porth Mear 49

PORTHCURNO 112

Cribba Head 112

Gwennap Head 112

Minack Theatre 112

Parish Church of St Levan 112

Porthcurno Telegraph Museum

112

PORTHGWARRA 113

Sweetheart’s Cove 113

PORTHLEVEN 98

PORTHTOWAN 60

Tywarnhale 61

Wheal Towan 60

PORTLOE 78

PORTREATH 85

Cornish Goldsmiths 86

Harbour 85

Hell’s Mouth 86

Mineral Tramway Walks 86

Tehidy 86

Treasure Park 86

PORTSCATHO 79

PORTWRINKLE 36

Tregantle Fort 37

POUGHILL 11

Bude Carnival 11

Revel and Cuckoo Fair 11

St Olaf’s Parish Church 11

POUNDSTOCK 14

Guildhouse 14

Penfound Manor 14

St Winwaloe’s Parish Church 14

PRAA SANDS 99

Pengersick Castle 99

PROBUS 77

St Probus’s and St Grace’s Parish

Church 77

Trewithen House and Gardens 77

R

RAME 36

Church of St Germanus 36

Rame Head 36

St Michael’s Chapel 36


PLACES OF INTEREST

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REDRUTH 87

Carn Brea 87

Shire Horse & Carriage Museum

87

St Uny’s Parish Church 87

ROCHE 56

Hermitage 56

Roche Rock 56

ROCK 43

Brea Hill 43

ROSE 62

St Piran’s Round 62

ROSUDGEON 100

Prussia Cove 100

RUAN LANIHORNE 78

St Rumon’s Parish Church 78

S

SALTASH 31

Guildhouse 31

Mary Newman’s Cottage 31

Royal Albert Bridge 31

Tamar Bridge 31

Trematon Castle 31

SANCREED 115

Sancreed Holy Well 115

St Credan’s Parish Church 115

SEATON 39

Seaton Valley Countryside Park 39

SENNEN 114

Castle 114

Sennen Cove 114

St Sennen Parish Church 114

SITHNEY 99

Sithney Treacle Mine 99

St Sidinius Parish Church 99

ST AGNES 58

Chapel Porth 60

St Agnes Beacon 60

St Agnes Head 60

St Agnes Museum 59

St Agnes Parish Church 59

Trevaunance Cove 59

Wheal Coates 59

Wheal Kitty 59

ST ALLEN 62

ST ANN’S CHAPEL 32

The Tamar Valley Donkey Park 32

ST ANTHONY 79, 93

Dennis Head 94

St Anthony Battery 80

St Anthony’s Lighthouse 79

St Anthony’s Parish Church 94

ST AUSTELL 69

Cornish Alps 70

Holy Trinity Parish Church 70

Menacuddle Well 70

Pinetum Park and Pine Lodge

Gardens 70

St Austell Brewery Visitor Centre

70

ST BLAZEY 71

Eden Project 71

Eden Sessions 71

St Blazey’s Parish Church 71

ST BURYAN 111

Boscawen-Un Stone Circle 112

St Buryan’s Parish Church 111

ST CLEER 25

Golitha Falls 26

King Doniert’s Stone 26

Trethevy Quoit 25

ST CLEMENT 77

St Clement’s Parish Church 77

ST CLETHER 22

St Clederus Parish Church 22

ST COLUMB MAJOR 54

Castle-an-Dinas 55

Cornish Birds of Prey Centre 55

Old Rectory 55

Red Lion Inn 55

Springfields Fun Park and Pony

Centre 55

St Columba’s Parish Church 54

ST DAY 86

Heritage Trail 86

ST ENDELLION 45

Parish Church of St Endelienta 45

St Endellion Music Festivals 46

ST GERMANS 37

Port Eliot 37

Sir William Moyle’s Almshouses 37

St Germans Parish Church 37

ST ISSEY 48

St Issey’s Parish Church 48

ST IVES 100

Barbara Hepworth Museum and

Sculpture Garden 102

Chapel of St Nicholas 100

Hurling the Silver Ball 100

John Knill 101

Knill Steeple 101

Leach Pottery 102

St Ia’s Parish Church 100

St Ives Head 100

St Ives Museum 101

St Ives Society of Artists 102

Steeple Woodland Nature Reserve

101

Tate St Ives 102

ST JULIOT 18

St Juliot Parish Church 18

ST JUST IN ROSELAND 80

St Just Parish Church 80

ST JUST-IN-PENWITH 115

Ballowall Barrow 115

Cape Cornwall 115

Cape Cornwall Mine 115

Ordinalia 115

Plen-an-Gwary 115

Priest’s Cove 115


St Just’s Parish Church 115

ST KEVERNE 94

Porthkerris Cove 94

St Keverne’s Parish Church 94

ST KEW 46

Ogham Stone 46

St Kew and St Doghow Parish

Church 46

ST KEYNE 40

Magnificent Music Machines 40

St Keyne’s Well 40

ST MAWES 79

St Mawes Castle 79

ST MAWGAN 54

Japanese Garden and Bonsai

Nursery 54

Lanherne 54

St Mawgan and St Nicholas Parish

Church 54

The Falcon 54


PLACES OF INTEREST

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ST MELLION 32

St Mellion Golf Resort 32

ST MERRYN 50

St Merryn’s Parish Church 50

The Angel’s Runway 50

ST MICHAEL CAERHAYS 75

Caerhays Castle 75

St Michael’s Parish Church 75

ST MINVER 45

St Menefreda’s Parish Church 45

ST NEOT 26

Carnglaze Caverns and The Rum

Store 26

St Anietus’s Parish Church 26

ST NEWLYN EAST 57

East Wheal Rose 57

Lappa Valley Steam Railway 57

STITHIANS 88

Parish Church of St Stithians 88

Stithians Reservoir 88

STRATTON 13

Anthony Payne 13

Battle of Stamford Hill 13

Bien Amee 13

St Andrew’s Parish Church 13

The Tree Inn 13

T

TINTAGEL 15

King Arthur’s Great Halls 15

Old Post Office 16

Rocky Valley 16

Rocky Valley Carvings 16

St Materiana’s Parish Church 16

St Nectan’s Kieve 16

The Island 15

Tintagel Castle 15

TORPOINT 34

Antony House and Gardens 35

Hamoaze 34

St John’s Lake 35

TOWAN CROSS 63

TREBARWITH 19

Trebarwith Strand 19

TREBETHERICK 43

Sir John Betjeman’s Grave 43

St Enodoc Parish Church 43

TREDINNICK 48

Cornwall’s Crealy Great Adventure

Park 48

TREEN 112

Logan Rock 112

Treryn Dinas 112

TREGONY 77

TREGREHAN MILLS 72

Tregrehan Gardens 72

TRELIGHTS 45

Long Cross Victorian Gardens 45

TRELISSICK 80

King Harry Ferry 81

Trelissick Estate 80

TREVERNA 88

Argal and College Water Park 88

Penjerrick 88

TREVONE 50

TREVOSE HEAD 50

Trevose Lighthouse 50

TREWARMETT 19

Beam Engine House 20

Jeffrey’s Pit 20

TREWINT 24

Wesley Cottage 24

TREYARNON 50

Constantine Bay 50


TROON 87

King Edward Mine Museum 88

TRURO 75

Boscawen Park 76

Bosvigo Gardens 77

Cathedral 76

Courtney Library 76

Royal Cornwall Museum 76

The Hall for Cornwall 77

Victoria Gardens 76

TUCKINGMILL 87

U

UPTON CROSS 25

Cornish Yarg Cheese 25

Sterts Theatre 25

V

VERYAN 78

Roundhouses 78

W

WADEBRIDGE 41

Camel Trail 42

John Betjeman Centre 42

Nine Maidens 42

St Breock Downs 42

St Breock Downs Monolith 42

St Breock’s Parish Church 42

St Petroc’s Parish Church 42

WARBSTOW 22

Warbstow Bury Hillfort 22

WARLEGGAN 26

WASHAWAY 30

Pencarrow House 30

WEEK ST MARY 14

Dame Percyval 14

Penhallam 14

St Mary’s Parish Church 14

WENDRON 91

Poldark Mine Heritage Complex

91

St Wendron’s Parish Church 91

WHITSAND BAY 36

WIDEMOUTH BAY 14

Blackrock 14

Z

Zelah 62

Chyverton Garden 62

ZENNOR 106

Mulfra Quoit 107

Pendour Cove 107

St Senara’s Parish Church 106

Wayside Folk Museum 107

Zennor Head 107

Zennor Quoit 107


PLACES OF INTEREST

the hidden places of cornwall

Documents