the guide.

With great wine, restaurants, progressive producers, surf and sun, the Fleurieu Peninsula – south of Adelaide – is one of South Australia’s most vibrant culinary destinations. The centre of the action is McLaren Vale (the regional winner in our 2010 Produce Awards), where wineries offer tastings of the area’s signature shiraz and grenache, as well as a growing selection of Italian and Spanish grapes such as sangiovese and tempranillo.

With the wine focus comes a vital energy from chefs and food producers who gather each week at the Willunga Farmers’ Market, bringing olives and oils, artisan dairy goods, locally nurtured meats and freshly sourced seafood to the district’s tables.

Beyond the Vale, Fleurieu spreads south through Langhorne Creek to the Southern Ocean and Cape Jervis at the peninsula’s tip, where beautiful long beaches make summer visits a memorable family affair.

dining in mclaren vale & willungad’Arry’s VerAndAhPerched high on one of McLaren Vale’s central ridges, d’Arry’s Verandah at d’Arenberg is one of South Australia’s great winery dining rooms. There’s global cuisine, such as scallops wrapped in locally made pancetta with truffle oil and cauliflower puree, alongside the entire range of d’Arenberg wines and a concise

The Fleurieu Peninsula is home to progressive artisan producers, world-class wineries and chefs who champion the region’s bounty.

words tony loVe PhoTograPhy cAtherine sutherlAnd

fleurieupeninsula

the guide.

imported selection. Taste your wines in the often buzzing adjacent cellar door before you settle in for lunch. Osborn Rd, McLaren Vale, (08) 8329 4848.

FinoA dedicated approach to regional cooking saw David Swain recognised in our 2010 Produce Awards. His menu offers hunter-style dishes of wild Coorong rabbit and homemade boccalaro sausage from

the father of co-owner and front-of-house dynamo Sharon Romeo, as well as super-fresh seafood from the Spencer Gulf – look out for tommy ruffs. Plates are simple yet sublimely prepared, and a short, exciting wine list brings in many McLaren Vale winemakers. 8 Hill St, Willunga, (08) 8556 4488.

the sAlopiAn innThis long-established Vale restaurant is enjoying renewed interest thanks to a contemporary makeover, a new boutique brewery and chef Billy Dohnt, who’s hit his stride with the likes of his signature garfish soufflé. Try the Vale Ale on tap (more house brews are on the way), or peruse the mature wine list edited by Master of Wine David LeMire. Adjacent cellar doors of Gemtree and Dowie Doole make this a must-stop. Cnr Main and McMurtrie rds, McLaren Vale, (08) 8323 8769.

Clockwise from top: a pan-Asian feel at Hanuman; Cairns; the Hanuman prawns;

the restaurant’s chic white setting.

Clockwise from far left: McLaren Vale vines; Aquacaf; d’Arenberg’s warm rhubarb and Willunga almond cake with cinnamon ice cream; d’Arenberg winery in McLaren Vale; Fino’s David Swain and Sharon Romeo in Willunga; d’Arenberg bottles; the fish pastie from Aquacaf in Goolwa.

delicious. 69

the Kitchen door restAurAnt At this restaurant, attached to the modern shed-like cellar doors of Penny’s Hill and Mr Riggs, chef Ben Sommariva performs magic daily. Expect wonderful plates of fish garnished with Kangaroo Island samphire; robust smoked eel terrine; millefeuille of beetroot chips and a 20-hour braised oxtail. The cooking is superbly balanced, the room’s large picture window with a view to grazing paddocks mesmerising, and the tasting menu, at $59, a steal. Penny’s Hill and Mr Riggs, Main Rd, McLaren Vale, (08) 8556 4000.

hoFFmAnn’s currAnt shedHidden away from the main tour routes, find heart-and-soul cooking in a former currant-drying shed, with nuanced pies, puddings and braises from chef Kerryn Oates. Owner Peter Hoffmann stocks a range of good wine; and you can pick limes in season. Ingoldby Rd, McLaren Flat, (08) 8383 0232.

WoodstocK coterie restAurAntWith a bushland setting and sympathetic restaurant design, Coterie has made its mark with a great regional platter. There’s

70 delicious.

Clockwise from top: Salopian Inn chef Billy Dohnt; Salopian Inn verandah in

McLaren Vale; wines from Penny’s Hill, McLaren Vale; Salopian Inn’s dining room.

also a mod bistro menu that might include gnocchi or risotto of crab and Port Lincoln cockles. Desserts use the winery’s fortifieds and stickies as inspiration. Douglas Gully Rd, McLaren Flat, (08) 8383 0156.

In town, McLaren Vale’s Main Road is packed with eateries. The Barn Bistro (252 Main Rd, (08) 8323 8618) offers classics such as Eton Mess; The Tin Shed Cafe (225 Main Rd, (08) 8323 7343) is Med-inspired; and Market 190 (190 Main Rd, (08) 8323 8558) serves cafe meals in a front garden.

Blessed Cheese (150 Main Rd, (08) 8323 7958) offers small bites with an emphasis on regional cheeses, and is the starting point for the local cheese and wine trail. Next door, imported wine shop Fall From Grace (150a Main Rd, (08) 8323 8089) adds a global perspective. Vasarelli Cellar Door and Restaurant (169 Main Rd, (08) 8323 7980) offers traditional Italian on pleasant verandah tables, while newcomer Serafino (Kangarilla Rd, (08) 8323 8911) serves well-versed Italian fare in fine-dining

Clockwise: Primo Estate’s tasting room in McLaren Vale; Primo’s cellar door manager Mark Van Gestel and Catherine Woods; Sellicks Beach; smoked eel and octopus terrine from Fino in Willunga;.

surrounds. Don’t miss the muscat and chocolate tasting flight at Oxenberry Farm Winery (26 Kangarilla Rd, (08) 8323 0188).

At Russell’s Pizza (14 High St, Willunga, (08) 8556 2571), Emma Baxter now fires up the wood oven to produce pizzas, roasts and more. On the coast, Star of Greece (The Esplanade, Port Willunga, (08) 8557 7420) commands rock-star beach views. Stop by the kiosk for famed fish and chips, or dine inside, where the beach bric-a-brac atmosphere is home to higher-end dishes.

mclaren vale wineriesprimo estAteThis architectural cellar door boasts a woodfire oven, courtyard and a flash bar at which to taste Joe Grilli’s range. Try the fresh La Biodina Colombard white, rich Joseph Moda cab merlot, or the two wines Joe makes in Italy each year. You’ll also find olive oils, bread and cheeses, which can be tasted in hosted flights. McMurtrie Rd, McLaren Vale, (08) 8323 6800.

pertAringANestled in the eastern foothills, this cute cellar door is a great bushland hideaway with a range of refined and elegant wines. Shane Harris’ Undercover Shiraz is particularly attractive, while a fortified Full Fronti is a raisined beauty. Over the hill, a few kilometres away, co-owner Geoff Hardy also has a great weekend wine-tasting venue, K1, that sits inside the official Adelaide Hills wine region. Cnr Hunt and Rifle Range rds, McLaren Vale, (08) 8323 8125.

corioleWith one of the area’s most beautiful views south over the vales and down to the coast, you’ll think you’re in Mediterranean heaven. Coriole’s range of Aussie classic varieties is augmented by some of our best sangiovese, and other Italian immigrants such as fiano and nebbiolo. There are courtyard lunches from Friday to Monday with homegrown produce, bread from the

the guide.

winery’s own wood oven, and Woodside cheeses. Several art events dot the venue’s yearly calendar. Chaffeys Rd, McLaren Vale, (08) 8323 8305.

pAxtonOne of the first Vale wineries you reach from the city, Paxton is a leader in organics and biodynamics in the district. Located in a captivating hillside setting in the restored Landcross Farm homestead, the cellar door is filled with natural light, and has a wine list with an equally bright shiraz and grenache, plus a spot-on rosé. Wheaton Rd, McLaren Vale, (08) 8323 9131.

WirrA WirrAThis cellar door is welcoming, with its cellar fireplace, kids’ toys, relaxation area and a long bar for sampling great local and Hills wines, from refreshing whites to the all-time favourite Church Block cabernet-shiraz-merlot blend. It’ll remind you that this is braveheart red territory and your car boot demands filling. McMurtrie Rd, McLaren Vale, (08) 8323 8414.

AlphA Box And diceA newcomer to the essential Vale tasting scene, this Friday-Sunday shed-cellar from Justin Lane is lots of fun, with antique pinball machines (for small and big kids), brewed coffee and several quirky yet superbly crafted reds made with a nod to serious Spanish and Italian winemaking traditions. It’s very different to many corporate venues and worth the detour to experience this fresh approach to wine and life. Lot 50, Oliver’s Rd, McLaren Vale, (08) 8323 7750.

sAmuel’s gorgeSpeaking of the new wave of McLaren Vale winemaking, Justin McNamee has built a wild and woolly reputation with his gung-ho drinks list. The bold grenache and tempranillo lead the way out of this restored historic barn with fascinating machinery and old-charm interior. Great views, too. Cnr Chaffey’s Rd and Chapel Hill, (08) 8323 8651.

shopping in mclaren vale and willunga WillungA FArmers’ mArKetEvery Saturday morning, one of the country’s best farmers’ markets attracts the crowds with fare from around 55 regional producers. From organic breads to great dairy products, fresh fruit and baked treats, shop here and you can skip the supermarket. Willunga Town Square, (08) 8556 4297.

All wined out? Medlow Confectionery (203 Main Rd, McLaren Vale, (08) 8323 9105) makes chocolates and sweets. It’s also the source of South Australia’s own dried apricot Fru-Chocs.

where to stay (and cook) in mclaren valeproducers oF mclAren VAleLive like a regional grower at Producers of McLaren Vale, where you can learn the arts of winemaking, olive oil pressing, cider processing, cheese making as well as bread and pasta skills with local experts. You can tailor sessions to include a produce lunch, and there are plenty of farmgate goodies to take home. Make a weekend of it and stay in the guesthouse or apartments (from $220 per night), which are nestled among native trees near a vineyard. Branson Rd, McLaren Vale, (08) 8323 0060, producers.net.au.

the guide.

Clockwise from left: Alpha Box and Dice vineyard in McLaren Vale; carrots from Willunga Farmers’ Market; The Australasian in Goolwa; and one of their rooms; Alpha Box’s Justin Lane.

delicious. 73

chApel hill Winery Chapel Hill Winery offers a unique group cooking experience, with a resident chef in a commercially equipped kitchen. Afterwards, enjoy the meal you’ve prepared with views over vineyards to the sea. Full weekend packages with markets and food-wine matching sessions are also on offer, and guesthouse lodgings are available at The Retreat at Chapel Hill Winery, where there’s a guesthouse wing with three bedrooms. From $260 per double including breakfast provisions. Cnr Chapel Hill and Chaffeys rds, McLaren Vale, (08) 8323 9182, theretreatatchapelhillwinery.com.au.

3 diVAsRight in the heart of McLaren Vale, stay in stone cottages or log cabins within walking distance of the township and all its eateries. From $190 per double, including breakfast provisions and complimentary wine. 42 Caffrey St, (08) 8323 9806, 3divas.com.au.

en route to the coastDepart the wine region for a glorious drive through of the Fleurieu Peninsula’s lower coastline. On the main road to Victor Harbor, the small town of Mt Compass houses the Agon Berry Farm roadside stall (Main South Rd, Mount Compass, (08) 8556 8428) open from November to April, when strawberries and blueberries are available. Mount Compass Venison (26 Main Rd, Mount Compass, (08) 8556 8216) has fresh meat, smallgoods and a great selection of other Fleurieu foods.

South of town, the Alexandrina Cheese Company (Sneyd Rd, Mt Jagged, (08) 8554 9666) is a highlight with award-winning cheddar and lunch.

To sample more great wine, take a side trip to Langhorne Creek in the lower Murray Lakes, where several wineries offer a new regional view. Visit cellar doors at Bremerton, Angas Plains, Cleggett, Rusticana, plus historic Bleasdale and leading winery Lake Breeze.

dining on the peninsulaAquAcAF With water lapping against its jetty setting and one of SA’s finest chefs, Jordan Theodoros, at the helm, Aquacaf has redefined kiosk dining. Come for the state’s best seafood dishes (Aquacaf won Adelaide Advertiser’s Best New Restaurant in 2009), including Jordan’s famed mulloway fish pastie, as well as creative lunch salads, great weekend breakfasts, and wife Stephanie Vasileff’s pastries. 94 Barrage Rd, Goolwa South, (08) 8555 1235.

While Aquacaf is Goolwa’s main foodie attraction, the Steam Exchange Brewery on the Goolwa Wharf (1 Cutting Rd, (08) 8555 3406) is a real ale paradise. On the long sandy beach just out of town, the small Bombora @ Goolwa Beach kiosk (Beach Rd, Goolwa Beach, (08) 8555 5396) has an open-air dining room right on the dunes, where relaxed breakfast and lunch menus match the surf culture.

West to Port Elliot, Flying Fish Cafe on Horseshoe Bay (1 The Foreshore, (08) 8554 3504) serves its famed fish and chips in huge cones on the deck and mod-Oz plates in fine style inside. In town, Hotel Elliot (35 The Strand, Port Elliot, (08) 8554 2218) is set up for modern pub dining, and the Port Elliot Bakery (31 North Tce, (08) 8554 2475) has justly acclaimed pasties and pies.

Clockwise from far right: Birks Harbour, Goolwa; Jordan Theodoros of Aquacaf,

Goolwa South; Star of Greece, Port Willunga; muffins from Blessed Cheese in Willunga.

74 delicious.

6.7.8.

3.2.

4.

1.

5.

10.

11.

12.13.14.

ILLu

STR

ATIo

n: P

ris

cil

la n

iels

en

The main coastal town of Victor Harbor bustles with tourists during holidays. Dining picks include Nino’s (Albert Place, Victor Harbor, (08) 8552 3501) for classic pasta and pizza, and Greek bistro Thalassa (Shop 1/2-3 Esplanade, (08) 8552 4570). Around Encounter Bay at the Fleurieu Beach Club licensed cafe Qahwa Espresso Bar and Coffee Roasters (Bridge Tce, 0488 165 151) does good coffee, homemade cakes and a small menu of Med-style dishes.

the AustrAlAsiAn This old building on Goolwa’s main corner has been turned into a Japanese retreat meets old colonial guesthouse. Co-owner/chef Juliet Michell turns on a three-course meal in the private dining room, and a bento box breakfast of fruit and cereals. From $275 per night. 1 Porter St, Goolwa, (08) 8555 1088, australasian1858.com.

BirKs hArBourJust north of Goolwa township on the River Murray’s banks, the old stone Birks River House and the Boathouse are a step back in time. The River House was refurbished by famed Barossa winemaker and riverboat

buff Robert O’Callaghan and partner Pam O’Donnell. There’s a glorious kitchen in the main house and maritime treatments. From $250, including gourmet breakfast basket. 138b Liverpool Rd, Goolwa, (08) 8555 0338, birksharbour.com.au.

towards the capeFrom your base in McLaren Vale, head south-west along the road to Cape Jervis and Kangaroo Island, stopping off at the lovely coastal towns along the way.

Set high on the southern hills of McLaren Vale, overlooking the glorious lower Gulf waters, the Victory Hotel (Main South Rd, Sellicks Beach, (08) 8556 3083) is great for both a beer and the fancy gastro-hotel experience. Classic whiting or squid with chips are treated with respect, while fresh seafood, top steaks and inventive dishes have lured winemakers and locals for years. Proprietor Doug Govan’s underground cellar and wine list are also a huge attraction.

Past the Victory Hotel, and you’ll come to Myponga, which has a knick-knack market and food stalls in the former dairy co-op, while brewer, the Lovely Valley

Beverage Factory (38 Main South Rd, Myponga, (08) 8558 6166) sits on the shores of the dam.

The town of Yankalilla boasts one of the region’s best bakeries (102 Main St, Yankalilla, (08) 8558 3413) with standout pasties and pastries. Lilla’s Cafe (117 Main South Rd, Yankalilla, (08) 8558 2525) has a great chicken and leek pie, regional wines and unmissable cakes and slices.

Normanville is the district’s foodie hotspot thanks to the Jetty Food Store (48 Main Rd, (08) 8558 2537) where local (and often simple backyard) produce sells well. There are great duck pies on Saturdays and good coffee every day. Nip around to the Seagull Droppings Gallery (cnr Main South and Hay Flat rds, (08) 8558 3863) for a brilliant vanilla slice and quirky marine interior pieces from artist Andrew Munn. At the nearby Lady Bay’s Links golf resort, (St Andrews Boulevard, (08) 8558 2220) there’s new energy in the Italian-focused tavern and enviable sunset views. d. Thanks to the South Australian Tourism Commission for assistance with this story. For more information, visit: southaustralia.com or fleurieupeninsula.com.au.

the guide.

3 Divas .......................................3Agon Berry Farm .....................15Alexandrina Cheese Company ..16Alpha Box and Dice ....................3Angas Plains ............................21Aquacaf ....................................19Birks Harbour .........................20Blessed Cheese .........................4Bombora @ Goolwa Beach .......19Bremerton ...............................21Coriole Vineyards .....................1Chapel Hill Winery .....................1Cleggett ...................................21d’Arry’s Verandah .....................1Fall From Grace ........................3Fino............................................9Flying Fish Cafe ......................18Hoffmann’s Currant Shed .........7Hotel Elliot ..............................18Jetty Food Store ......................13Lady Bay’s Links ......................13Lake Breeze ............................21 Lilla’s Cafe ...............................14Lovely Valley

Beverage Factory ................12Market 190 ................................3Medlow Confectionery ..............3Mount Compass Venison .........15

nino’s ......................................17oxenberry Farm Winery ............4Paxton .......................................2Pertaringa .................................8Port Elliot Bakery ....................18Primo Estate ..............................8Producers of McLaren Vale .......3Qahwa Espresso Bar and

Coffee Roasters ...................17Russell’s Pizza .........................10Rusticana .................................21Salopian Inn .................................5Samuel’s Gorge .........................1Seagull Droppings Gallery ......13Serafino ....................................4Star of Greece ............................11Steam Exchange Brewery .........19Thalassa .....................................17The Australasian ........................19The Barn Bistro .........................3The Kitchen Door Restaurant ........5The Tin Shed Cafe ........................3Vasarelli Cellar Door and

Restaurant ...............................3 Victory Hotel ..............................11Willunga Farmers’ Market ........10Wirra Wirra ..................................8Woodstock Coterie Restaurant ...6

15.

map key

16.

17.18. 19.

20.

21.