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The Garden Fence

Harford County Master Gardeners Monthly Newsletter February 2019

This is my final President’s Column. In February, the Master Gardeners will choose a new President who will author forthcoming columns. I want to use this column to say farewell, and to thank everyone for all of the support over the past four years. After all, you read four years of President’s Columns that dealt with everything from lichens to Christmas Tree farming!

Much has changed over the past four years in the Harford County Master Gardener program. New varied committees sprung up in Community Greening, Therapeutic Horticulture, Invasinators, and many others. In the past four years we had a wonderful Harford Co MG anniversary party, we acquired a Social Secretary, and a Book Club was formed to discuss plant books of great interest. We were honored to have one of the book authors’ visit and speak to us. We acquired a remembrance plaque honoring Master Gardeners who have passed. The interesting note is that none of these things have been my doing –accomplished, all done, by Master Gardeners who had great ideas. Please continue with your great ideas, and give our new President all of the support that you have given to me! Ellen Haas ‘13

President’s Message

Inside this Issue President’s Message

Volunteer Management System (VMS)

Invasinators Committee

Begonia Viking™

Marigold Big Duck Gold

2019 Year of the Salvia nemorosa

Reviewing Literature On Landscape Trees - Part 2 of 3

Why Do You Garden?

Activity: Combat Boot Planters

Continuing Education Opportunities

Calendar of Events

Officers Ellen Haas, President

Anne Spelman, Vice President

Kim Poehling, Secretary

Carol Linthicum, Secretary

Greg Murray, Treasurer

Steve O’Brien, Newsletter Editor

Ginny Smith, Newsletter Continuing Education

Quick Links

Harford County Extension Office

Home & Garden Info Center

New Î VMS Logon

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Our new 2019 Volunteer Management System (VMS) has launched! The old database for entering hours has been permanently shut down. Do not fret. Grace & Joyce are here to help you learn this system. Meanwhile we need everyone to try it! As we learn where the problems arise, we will offer training in those areas. Please complete Steps 1-5 (found below) to learn about the VMS and how to access the system for the first time. We hope that you will find the experience to be much more user friendly and offer new opportunities to report and view your volunteer records. Ready to Get Started? Step 1: Watch this Introductory Video

Every VMS User must first change their password by following the instructions in this video. You will need your new password to login to the VMS for the first time. Please watch this introductory video to learn how to change your password.

Step 2: Change Your Password

Please use this link to change your password. Q&A: What if your name is listed more than once in the drop-down menu or not at all? Please watch this video to learn how to access the online Get Help Form.

Step 3: First Time Log-In After you have watched the introductory video above and changed your password, please login to your VMS account by using the following link. https://vms.umd.edu/ Please save this link as a favorite on your computer so that you can easily access it again in future.

Step 4: Watch All Video Tutorials

Once you have logged into the system for the first time, please watch all the online video tutorials to learn how to navigate the VMS. Please click this link to watch the online video tutorials.

Step 5: UME Master Gardener Program Definitions and Worksheets The following documents have been updated. Please visit our Volunteer Resources web page and click the header Record and Report Volunteer Data to download/save the files.

• 2019 UME MG Activity Definitions (PDF) • 2019 Recording Data for the VMS (PDF) • 2019 Direct Contact Demographic Data Worksheet (PDF) • 2019 Volunteer Hours Worksheet (PDF) • 2019 Volunteer Hours Worksheet (Fillable PDF) • 2019 Continuing Education Hours Worksheet (PDF) • 2019 Continuing Education Hours Worksheet (Fillable PDF)

For VMS related questions, please contact Grace Wyatt: dgracew@comcast.net

The NEW Volunteer Management System (VMS)

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While farmer's markets, fair committees, nurseries making plans for warmer weather, the invasive removal teams are earning volunteer hours, by removing bad plants at Eden Mill and Anita C. Leight Estuary Center, during the cold weather! See the bundled up MG’s in our photo; Anne Bredlow, Ronnie Grevey, Jamie Healey, Nancy Gladden, Steve O’Brien. Winter is a great time to destroy the enemy plants, because the vines, thorny bushes, and

toxic berries are easy to spot and remove. As long as the ground is not frozen we pull the roots as well. If the occasional hiker, school group or family come along, we give an impromptu talk about why removing invasives is important! Spreading the word is really a valuable educational tool! Maureen North and I recently gave another "Bad Weed, Worse Weed" talk to a local garden club. They will hopefully share their newly acquired knowledge and wisely do a little research before choosing new plants, shrubs or trees for the garden. Our hope is that their bad garden plant offsprings from Nandina domestica, Buddleia davidii, Elaeagnus umbellata will be tossed into trash bags instead of being shared with the family and neighbors. For further information about invasives removal at Eden Mill, or to sign up a "Bad Weed, Worse Weed" talk, please contact Anne Bredlow at a.r.bredlow@gmail.com; Anita Leight weed work is coordinated at the nature center by Dawn 410-612-1688. Please call the nature Center for information. Typically they meet either one Sat or Sun a month, hours vary. Anne Bredlow ‘15

2019 All American Selections (AAS) Ornamental Seed Winner, National Winner A brand new begonia with large, uniquely colored dark leaves has arrived! Judges were impressed with how the deep bronze/brown color remained sharp and intense throughout the season, no matter where they were located; north, south, east or west. The color tones shine through to give a stunning garden appearance. Covered with vibrant red flowers, the compact plant retains its shape well and does not become rangy. “Given the options, I would choose this variety for my landscape beds.” states a judge who plans beds for a public garden. “This year's weather seemed unusually conducive to disease on large-leaf begonias but none of these plants were affected” states another judge. These extra-large mounded plants are perfect in both landscapes and containers.

Source: https://all-americaselections.org/product/begonia-viking-xl-red-on-chocolate/

Begonia Viking™ XL Red on Chocolate F1

Invasinators MG Committee

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2019 AAS Ornamental Seed Winner, National Winner

QUACK! There’s a new marigold in the pond! Big Duck Gold sports very large golden-yellow flowers that continue blooming throughout the season, much longer than the comparisons. These marigolds begin the season putting energy into establishing a solid, healthy plant with clean, deep-green foliage. Then, when it starts blooming, watch out! Full, “plump” blooms top the 15” plants (which are slightly taller than the more compact comparison varieties) and continue blooming through the end of the season. You’ll want to use these marigolds everywhere: in beds and containers; in landscapes as mini hedges, back of the border plants, or even as filler in new perennial beds.

Source: https://all-americaselections.org/product/marigold-big-duck-gold/

From tropical forests to high-deserts and urban landscapes, Salvias are among the most common ornamental and culinary plant species you will find.

Although its name is derived from the Latin salvere, meaning to heal or good health, this moniker undoubtedly refers to the common herb Sage (Salvia officinalis) and not the ornamental Salvias we find flowering in our gardens. All Salvia are in the mint family Lamiacea and are cousins to landscape favorites such as Nepeta (Catmint) and Monarda (Beebalm). Indeed, many Salvia species reveal their history through their minty fragrance contained in their leaves. There are more than one thousand species in the genus; however, most are not hardy in northern gardens. This article focuses on the hardy types.

Hardy Salvia History

English botanist George Bentham did the first extensive documentation of this genus in 1836. One fascinating characteristic of Salvia flowers is that they contain a trigger mechanism that deposits pollen on the back side of visiting bees. This pollen then becomes transferred to female Salvia flowers that share the same receptive flower parts encouraging pollination among the same or similar species. The beautiful Salvia we find in our modern gardens originates from plants found in the wooded elevations of Eurasia. The most common hardy species are S. nemorosa and S. pratensis and the many hybrids derived such as S. x sylvestris and S. x superbum. Today, for simplicity we botanically refer to the entire class of these hybrids as S. nemorosa (nemorosa from the Latin ‘of woods’) and commonly call them Woodland Sage. Interestingly, all plants with the common name sage are Salvia, but we reserve the true genus name for ornamental rather than culinary species. The sage you keep in your kitchen is actually Salvia too, and it can also be northern winter hardy; however, they have lesser ornamental value.

Key Cultivars

Much of the early work in hardy salvia breeding was done by German plantsman Ernst Pagels who is credited with breeding varieties ‘Blauhugel’ (Blue Hill) and ‘Schneehugel’ (Snow Hill) shortly after the Second World

Marigold Big Duck Gold F1

2019 Year of the Salvia nemorosa

Salvia nemorosa - wikipedia

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War. Both of these are still in commercial cultivation and are found in garden centers during spring and summer. Today, there are several hundred varieties of hardy garden salvia from which to choose. The most common and well-known cultivar, also a product of innovative German breeding is ‘Mainacht’ (MayNight). Named Perennial Plant of the Year by the Perennial Plant Association in 1997, May Night remains a favorite among landscapers for its abundance of indigo blue flowers and pest and disease resistance. Other standards include the upright, dark-stemmed variety ‘Caradonna’ and the dark purple cultivar ‘Ostfriesland’ (East Friesland). These tried-and-true classics are being replaced slowly with exciting new varieties from flower breeders in the United States and Europe. Award-winning cultivars such as ‘Blue Marvel’ and ‘Rose Marvel’ present extra-large flowers and provide a much longer flowering window. Newcomer ‘April Night’ is earlier to flower, as the name suggests, and is especially popular with southern gardeners. ‘New Dimension’, ‘Bordeau’ ‘Salute’ and ‘Swifty’ are all new introductions that are bred for improved garden performance. Of interest to the category, breeders are hybridizing S. nemorosa and S. pratensis to provide plants with more open and airier flower presentation. Examples include the Fashionista™ series and Salvia ‘Blue by You’.

Care and Cultivation Hardy salvia like S. nemorosa are considered to be care-free and easy to manage in the garden. They can be in place for years without dividing. They are also a favorite of pollinator bees and hummingbirds. As a member of the Mint family their leaves will not be foraged by deer and rabbits and are considered a great garden addition where these nuisance creatures are present. Wisely locate them with at least one-half day of direct sunlight to encourage flowering. Salvias prefer soils rich in organic matter, so it may be necessary to add compost, peat moss or topsoil to your sandy or heavy clay soil before planting. Once established salvias are quite drought tolerant and require watering only when other landscape shrubs, such as Hydrangea, show signs of wilting. To maintain healthy green growth, fertilize when they emerge from dormancy in spring and once again in early summer. Applying a balanced fertilizer, 15-15-15, according to label directions will do the trick. Many gardeners experience only one spring flowering display from salvia because they are unaware they can be encouraged to rebloom several times during the summer and well into fall. After the first flush of flowers has finished and the flower stems have turned brown, cut back aggressively to about one-third their original size. Salvia plants will respond by pushing up new shoots from the root system, and you will be rewarded with a new flush of flowers in four to six weeks. Repeat this process, and it’s possible you may see as many as three or more full cycles of flowering in a single season. Remove all salvia foliage after it turns brown in the fall to promote healthy new growth the following spring. Hardy garden salvia are delightful additions to any central and northern garden, and it is fitting that the National Garden Bureau has deemed 2019 as the Year of the Salvia!

The National Garden Bureau recognizes and thanks Karl Batschke from Darwin Perennials as author and contributor to this fact sheet. Source: National Garden Bureau https://ngb.org/year-of-the-salvia-nemorosa/

Salvia nemorosa May Night - Gardener Direct

Salvia nemorosa Caradonna - Dobbies Garden Center

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This is part 2 of 3 on Reviewing Literature On Landscape Trees. Part 1 was published in The Garden Fence’s January 2019 edition.

Source: https://www.nacaa.com/journal/index.php?jid=885&fbclid=IwAR0UJQvdbYRjOTTi8m1qCKVczVOsV9lEEt8jyKrPCuJeV8ADhh1HL4OOw48 JOURNAL OF THE NACAA ISSN 2158-9429 VOLUME 11, ISSUE 2 – DECEMBER 2018 GARDEN MYTH BUSTING FOR EXTENSION EDUCATORS: REVIEWING LITERATURE ON LANDSCAPE TREES Editor: Lee Stivers,Chalker-Scott, L., Extension Specialist And Associate Professor, Washington State University Downer, A.J., Farm Advisor, University of California Myth 4: “The crowns of transplanted trees should be pruned to compensate for root loss” Earlier we mentioned that humans like symmetry. This bias seeps into the practice of pruning the crowns of trees and shrubs during transplanting. There is a widespread belief that the crown size should mirror the roots to avoid straining the root system for water uptake. Initially this practice does reduce water usage, but soon the plant responds with new shoots and leaves, requiring not only more water but nutritional resources for their development. Understanding how plants work is useful in explaining this response (Bayala et al., 2004; Jones et al., 1998; Martin et

al., 2010): x cutting branches removes growth-regulating auxins and allows dormant buds below these cuts

to grow; x new branches and their leaves require nitrogen and other essential nutrients for their

development; x expanding leaves require high levels of water to maximize leaf size; x directing water and nutrients to the crown reduces their availability to roots; x root growth and establishment is reduced without sufficient water and nutrients; x root growth is further inhibited by the lack of auxins, which stimulate new root development, and x poor root systems are unable to take up sufficient water to support the crown.

Gardeners see the tops of their transplanted trees growing and mistakenly think the tree is healthy, only to see the tree suffer or die in subsequent months. Instead, the crown should be left intact.

Again, understanding what is happening below ground is important (Chalker-Scott, 2015a): x the tree’s first response after transplanting will be to grow new roots to establish into the surrounding soil; x water and resources are directed to the roots, and above-ground growth will slow or stop during this time; x flowers or leaves on transplanted trees may wilt or die, particularly if they are young or conditions are hot and dry; x once the roots have established, water and resources will be directed to dormant buds; and x the emerging shoots and leaves are an indicator that roots are well established into the soil.

Reviewing Literature On Landscape Trees

Figure 5. Compensatory pruning is not recommended for newly transplanted trees and shrubs.

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Myth 5: “Pruning cuts and other wounds should be sealed to prevent disease” For many years, gardeners and tree care professionals covered wounds and pruning cuts with sealants such as asphalt emulsions or resin-based products. Sealing was recommended because treated wounds were thought to cover over more quickly than unpainted cuts, and that vulnerable tissues were isolated from decay fungi. Both of these suppositions were later disproven, and professionals soon abandoned an unnecessary and harmful practice (Shigo and Shortle, 1983). Unfortunately, the practice lives on for home gardeners who can still purchase wound sealants from nurseries, and in countries such as those in Eastern Europe where painting wounds is practiced with religious fervor, despite obvious failures of the paints to prevent decay (Figure 6a-b).

Figure 6a-b. Pruning paints did not prevent decay in this horse-chestnut (Aesculus hippocastanum) tree. Do not use sealants.

Trees and other woody plants have a biochemical response to wounding that requires oxygen. Sealants isolate the tissues from the atmosphere, limiting the oxygen that’s needed for natural wound sealing. Furthermore, artificially sealing wounds can be counterproductive to the main objective of limiting development of wood decay. Wood decay spores in air can fall on pruning cuts immediately after branches are removed (Gauthier et al., 2015). Pruning sealants provide an impenetrable cover and maintain high humidity behind the paint, providing perfect incubation conditions for pathogens. Research indicates that beneficial fungi can also inhabit cut surfaces and that these organisms compete with and inhibit the development of wood decay causing fungi (Schubert et al., 2008). Biological control fungi can be applied after a cut is made to protect the wound from subsequent decay fungus colonization. Tree paints prevent the deposition or application of biological control fungi on cut surfaces. Research on branch removal shows that leaving the branch collar intact and avoiding flush cuts is more likely to limit decay than the use of pruning paints (Shigo, 1984). Myth 6: “Trees should be firmly staked at planting” Nursery-grown shade trees are often rigidly staked to prevent blowdown and damage during cultivation. In some cases, trees are pruned to a long, untapered standard with a bushy top that requires a tight stake to hold it up. Nurseries often remove side branches from the young trunk and while this creates the illusion of a small tree, the practice actually inhibits the development of taper in the trunk (Harris, 1984; Neel and Harris, 1971). Trees without taper will not stand without staking. Poor culture of ornamental trees in nurseries necessitates staking once trees are planted into landscapes because they do not have the structural development in their trunks to stand on their own. Due to these

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cultivation errors, landscape installers frequently keep the nursery stake and add more stakes to firmly secure the tree in place and further prevent its movement in the landscape. Staking takes three basic forms: rigid staking, guying, and anchoring. All methods of staking reduce development of taper, increase height growth, and decrease caliper of the developing tree relative to unstaked trees (Figure 7). Moreover, improper staking can result in increased tree breakage either during the staking period or after staking is removed (Figure 8a-b) (Thacker et al., 2018).

8a 8b Figure 8a-b. Staking that is too high and tight results in tree breakage above the staking point. When staking has been left on too long, trunks often break after staking is removed.

Decades ago, researchers discovered that movement of the trunk and branches is necessary for the development of trunk taper (Figure 9) (Neel and Harris, 1971). Trees grown in a growth chamber without movement did not develop taper and instead grew taller, while trees in an identical chamber that were hand shaken each day developed significant taper and remained shorter. Until trees are established in landscapes, they may require some staking. In areas of high wind, guying (which involves cables staked to the ground) gives the greatest protection against main stem breakage or blow over (Alvey et al., 2009).

Whatever system is used to stake a tree, any such hardware should be removed as soon as the tree can stand on its own: x The traditional two stakes and ties system is the least harmful to landscaping trees.(Figure 10)

x Staking should be low and loose to allow trunk taper to develop naturally. x Remove all staking material as soon as possible. x If a tree is not established after a year of staking, it is unlikely to ever establish.

End of Part 2 of 3 articles on Reviewing Literature On Landscape Trees.

Figure 10. An appropriate staking method. Stakes and ties should be

removed as soon as the tree can stand without support or be

damaged from wind.

Figure 7. Rigid staking prevents development of a strong trunk, causes injury, and slows establishment in the landscape.

Figure 9. Taper is the increase in diameter of the stem near the soil line.

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Do you want to do your part to reduce the effects of climate change? Gardens provide vital green space to offset all that asphalt, and reduce greenhouse gasses. Growing your own food is good for you and great for the planet.

The food you grow yourself is the freshest food you can eat. And because home gardens are filled with fruits and vegetables, it's also among the healthiest food you can eat. Don’t have acres of land, a big back yard, or your HOA doesn’t allow gardens. You can still grow your own food. With limited space in an apartment with just a patio (or no outdoor space at all), the idea is to maximize what you do have. Container gardening is a simple and fun way to grow edible crops in just about any situation. It’s perfect for all kinds of people— kids, people with physical limitations, college students, renters, and novice

gardeners. Temporary or permanent containers (including window boxes) can be fitted to any location— balcony, deck, stoop, concrete pad, or any part of your yard. You can locate containers where they are most convenient for you and where they will grow best. You can grow just about any vegetable or herb. Some of the more popular container crops are salad greens, peppers, eggplant, tomatoes, beans, chard, beets, radish, squash and cucumbers. More challenging crops include melons, corn, potatoes, and sweet potato. Self-watering” containers represent a relatively new gardening concept. They help conserve water and nutrients and make it possible to ignore your containers for a few days. Gardening is beneficial for you physical as well as you mental health. Some of them include:

x Benefits to your bones and immune system that you get from the increased Vitamin D while you’re outdoors getting sunshine.

x A great form of aerobic exercise. Pulling weeds, reaching for plants and tools, and twisting and bending as you plant will work new muscles in your body and help with strength, stamina and flexibility.

x A healthy workout for your brain. Working in the garden is a powerful tool for protecting cognitive health, increasing brain volume and lowering the risk of Alzheimer’s disease.

Horticultural therapy is a practice that has been around since the 1800s. After World War II, the practice of gardening was used as part of the rehabilitation program for hospitalized war veterans. Since then, therapeutic gardens have been gaining popularity for both veterans and civilians. Boulder Crest Retreat in the foothills of the Blue Ridge Mountains in Bluemont, Virginia is the home of the Wallis Annenberg Heroes Garden, the nation’s second handicapped-accessible walled garden. Gardening is Good for the Mind, Body, and Soul

Why Do You Garden?

Denise Perry ‘16

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“There are a variety of military Families - National Guard, Reserve, and Active Duty; young and old; inexperienced and experienced; on-post and off-post; and so much more. In this activity we are going to create container plants from recycled military field boots. The boots themselves represent the variety found in Service Members and their Families – we have very old boots, clean boots and much worn (experienced) boots.” Supplies: • Donated combat boots: contact local military units for worn out combat boots to use as planters (1 per Family) • 30 one gallon plastic storage bags • 2 bags of 1 cubic ft. size potting soil (also used in Activity 1) • Variety of small plants to have at least 3-4 plants per Family (dusty millers, various herbs, carnations, marigolds, etc.) • 4 trowels to scoop potting soil into bags (optional) • Access to a water supply or several large containers of water Steps: 1. Together as a Family, select a boot that fits who you are as a

Family. 2. Untie the shoelaces from the top 2-3 sets of holes. Tie the laces

in a double knot. Open the shoe a little to increase the planting area. The laces help hold the shape together.

3. Use a trowel or your hands to scoop potting soil into a plastic storage bag. Fill about half full.

4. Place the storage bag into the boot. 5. As a Family, decide upon 3-4 plants that you will place into your container. Make sure every

Family member has a voice in decision making. 6. Place the plants into your potting soil, adding a small amount of water when finished. 7. Fill up the rest of the storage bag with potting soil. Once the plants are in place add additional

water. 8. Referring back to the Garden Success handout, as a large group discuss the handout and allow a

short time for Families to develop a Family specific care plan for their Combat Boot Planter. 9. Stress that plants can be very resilient but still require some basic care or they will not thrive in

their environment. Debriefing Questions: • Have each Family “show & tell” their boot planter with the group. Share how your planter

represents your Family? • What did you learn about yourself and your Family members during this activity? • How were differences of opinion handled? • How did your Family communicate and use teamwork? Were you effective? What could you do to

be more effective? • How does the continued care needed by your container plant relate back to the care and

maintenance a military Family needs to continue to grow, change, and work together in your “container?”

Denise Perry ‘16

Activity: Combat Boot Planters

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Beginner Farmer Training Program (BFTP) applications due The BFTP offers 12 – month immersive training experience that combines a comprehensive classroom curriculum with hands-on learning at some of the region’s leading sustainable farms. Contact Sarah Sohn, Program Director, for more information: sarah@futureharvesstcasa.org February 6 – March 13 6:30 – 8:30 pm (6 sessions) Plant Science: Soils Longwood Gardens Visitor Center Auditorium Understanding and caring for a garden’s soil is essential for plants to thrive. Learn how a soil’s pH and organic matter affect plant growth and how to work with soil in your garden. Fee: $179 by Jan.31 or $189 after Jan 31. To register online go to longwoodgardens.org or call 610-388-5454 February 9 9 am – 4 pm Idea for Impact: The World of Mushrooms Longwood Gardens Enjoy an immersive experience into the world of mushrooms. AM session features speakers sharing insight into – culture, history, and composting – LUNCH – PM features a tour of a local mushroom farm and grower. Fee: $89 (includes lunch) To register online go to longwoodgardens.org or call 610-388-5454 February 9 11:00 am Orchid Care and Repotting Valley View Farms Garden Center Hunt Valley Learn more about orchids. Expert will provide tips on proper watering, maintenance and choosing the perfect plant. Bring in your own orchid for diagnosis and repotting. There will be a minimal charge (materials only) for repotting any orchids during the class. For more information call 410-527-0700. February 16 8:45am – 4:00 pm 2019 Winter Seminar: Perennially Inspired The Conference Center at Sheppard Pratt The Perennial Plant Association and Horticultural Society of MD. present a fabulous day-long seminar in Baltimore, providing inspiration for home and professional gardeners. Speakers include: Nigel Dunnett (topic: Planting for People; Dramatic and Dynamic Perennial Planting at the Human Scale); Ching-Fang Chen (topic: Topic for Public Parks); Dean Dietrich (topic: Plant That Perform) and more. For more details and to register go to www.mdhorticulture.org Cost for current members $105; $125 if purchased after February 1 $125 for non-members; $145 if purchased after February 1 February 16 or February 17 12 noon - 1:30 or 2 - 3:30 pm Ladew Gardens Come experience the "magic" of maple sugaring as we head out to Ladew's Nature Walk to identify trees, observe tapped maple trees, and collect some sap! Learn how to boil down the sap to make yummy, golden brown syrup. And sample tasty maple snacks! Two tours are offered each day. All ages are welcome!

Continuing Education Opportunities

The mushroom council photo

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Adults $12, Seniors (62+) $10, Students $10, Children (ages 3-12) $6, Children (2 and under) free (Includes Processing Fee) Space is limited. Advance registration and payment is required as Maple Magic typically sells out. For more info, contact Sheryl Pedrick at 410-557-9570, ext. 226 or spedrick@ladewgardens.com February 20 12:00 pm ON-LINE WEBINAR The Role of Honey Bees in Natural Areas- A Conversation Vicki Wojcik of the Pollinator Partnership and Rich Hatfield of the Xerces Society reprise the popular talks they gave at the 2018 Natural Areas Conference in October. Vicki will speak on "Flora Resource Competition Between Honey Bees and Wild Bees: Is There Clear Evidence and Can We Guide Management and Conservation?" and Rich will speak on "Honey Bees in the Pollination Networks of Natural Areas? -- An Overview and Best Management Practices." https://zoom.us/webinar/register/WN_yhwmMn0pTjuJBOIpU_UYug When entering this in the Maryland State Volunteer Management system Continuing Ed please put the web link under the description. February 22 9:00am – 3:30pm 20th Annual Educational Seminar The Conference Center at Sheppard Pratt Manor View Farm and The Perennial Farm announce a group of speakers for the Educational Seminar. Speakers include Fergus Garrett (topic: Succession Planting for a Long Season); Tony Dove (topic: Smart Choices in Essential Trees and Shrubs); Karl Gercens (topic: Plant That Inspire); Heather Zindash (You Can’t Judge a Bush by its Color); and more. For more information and to register go to www.manorview.com Registration before 1/17/19 $98.00 after 1/18/19 - $118.00 February 23 9:00 am Gardening Under Glass Valley View Farms Garden Center Hunt Valley Terrariums are fun and easy to grow. Make your own after a wee bit of instruction. We will supply the glass, plants, charcoal, and pebbles. Or, bring your own glass to create this miniature garden. Cost is $30.00. For more information call 410-527-0700. February 23 11:00 am Square Foot Garden 4 U Valley View Farms Garden Center Hunt Valley Learn about gardening in smaller spaces. Square Foot Gardening utilizes on 20% of the space of a conventional garden .while producing the same harvest. U. S. Air Force veteran Kim Roman teaches this method throughout our region. Join her for this seminar. For more information call 410-527-0700. March 4 6 weeks ON-LINE Edibles, Bulbs, and Houseplants Explore the edible side of the landscape with an exploration of vegetables, fruits and herbs that do best in your region. Then extend your growing season by learning how to properly cultivate and identify bulbs and houseplants. To register on-line go to www.longwoodgardens.org or call 610-388-5454. Cost is $179.00 by February 26; $189.00 after February 26 When entering this in the Maryland State Volunteer Management system Continuing Ed please put the web link under the description.

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March 8 – April 1 6:00pm – 8:00 pm A Second Look at Spring Plants to Extend the Season Longwood Gardens Visitor Center Auditorium Searching for plants that will fill the gaps in your garden’s bloom period? Get a jump on spring by exploring underutilized plants that have the potential to add impact when the rest of your garden is dormant. To register on-line go to www.longwoodgardens.org or call 610-388-5454. Cost is $89.00 by March 11; $99.00 after March 11. March 9 8:30 am – 4:00 pm GardenWise MG Training Event Central York Middle School, York, Pa. Kick off gardening season by joining the Penn State Extension of Master Gardeners of York County for Garden Wise, a one day garden school. Garden Wise is filled with informative sessions for new and experienced gardeners. Goal is to share research based information about sustainable gardening and environmental stewardship. Fee: $75.00 or discounted to $60.00 is registered by February 8. Register online at www.cvent.com/events/com/gardenwise or call 877-345-0691 March 16 8:30am – 1:30pm A Symposium for the Public and our Local Farmers Food, Farmers and Community: Opening the Dialogue Harford Community College, The James F. LaCalle Conference Room, E132- Edgewood Hall Learn about the current state of Harford County’s agriculture and food system and the advantages of “buying local”. Discuss with farmers the new trends in farming and learn what is behind the food label. Program will include four informative sessions co-presented by local farmers and specialists. Keynote: Julie Olberg, Deputy Secretary of MD’s Dept. of Agriculture. To register visit http://www.tickets.harford.edu (Cost is $10.00 & includes breakfast and lunch buffet. Tickets must be purchased in advance. Ticket sales end March 8, 2019) March 23 9:00am – 3:00pm Creating Biodiversity in Your Environment Oregon Ridge Lodge at Hunt Valley Expert speakers from a various agencies (e.g., Smithsonian Environmental Research Center, MD. DNR Wildlife and Heritage Service, etc) will provide answers to questions regarding the characteristics and behaviors of Md. Mammals (Part 2), how to wild scape with native plants, information about Maryland Big Tree Program, causes and impacts of climate change on plant species and forest ecosystems, and the history and importance of the Maryland Biodiversity Project. Contact Glenn Ferenschak at 410-428-4748 or sciencegf@msn.com for more information or to register. Breakfast snacks and lunch and all materials are included for $50.00. Registrations will be accepted through March 8. June 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, and 21 2019 International Master Gardener Conference – Various Locations in Pennsylvania Registration is now is now open! Use this link to take you to the registration site on event: http://www.cvent.com/d/hggxlp. You are encouraged to pre-plan your conference choices before you sign on to the registration site.

We usually have 25-30 in attendance. If you need a ride, please let us know!

Great Opportunity for Harford Co. MG’s

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Joyce Browning | Urban Horticulturist Master Gardener Coordinator | Harford County Office

The University of Maryland Extension programs are open to any person and will not discriminate against anyone because of race,

age, sex, color, sexual orientation, physical or mental disability, religion, ancestry, national origin, marital status, genetic information, political affiliation, and gender identity or expression.

Feb-March Calendar of Events

Feb 5 1:30 pm Brightview Assisted Living Class Brightview Feb 7 7 pm Monthly MG Meeting & Officer Elections Extension Office Feb 9 Red Dress Pink Ribbon Event Kauffman Center

Feb 16 10:15 am - noon Indoor Seed Starting Class GIEI Bel Air Library Feb 18 Ag Center Closed for Presidents Day Feb 20 10:00 am - noon Book Discussion Extension Office Feb 28 10:00 am -11:30 am Steering Committee Meeting Extension Office

Book Discussion Study Group Feb 28 11:30 am – 1 pm Greening Committee Extension Office Mar 7 10:00 am - noon Monthly MG Meeting Extension Office

Mar 28 10:00 am - 11:30 am Steering Committee Meeting Extension Office