the fish that ate the whale; the life and times of america's banana king

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822019 The Fish That Ate the Whale The Life and Times of Americas Banana King

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullthe-fish-that-ate-the-whale-the-life-and-times-of-americas-banana-king 113

822019 The Fish That Ate the Whale The Life and Times of Americas Banana King

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullthe-fish-that-ate-the-whale-the-life-and-times-of-americas-banana-king 213

Farrar Straus and Giroux

18 West 18th Street New York 10011

Copyright copy 2012 by Rich Cohen Map copyright copy 2012 by Jeffrey L Ward

All rights reserved Distributed in Canada by DampM Publishers Inc

Printed in the United States of AmericaFirst edition 2012

Grateful acknowledgment is made for permission to reprint the following materialExcerpt from One Hundred Years of Solitude ( Cien antildeos de soledad ) by Gabriel Garciacutea

Maacuterquez translated by Gregory Rabassa copyright copy 1967 by Gabriel Garciacutea Maacuterqueztranslation copyright copy 1970 by Harper amp Row Publishers Inc Reprinted by permission of Agencia Literaria Carmen Balcells and HarperCollins Publishers

Excerpt from Living to ell the ale ( Vivir para contarla ) by Gabriel Garciacutea Maacuterqueztranslated by Edith Grossman translation copyright copy 2003 by Gabriel Garciacutea Maacuterquez

Used by permission of Alfred A Knopf a division of Random House IncExcerpt from Every Man a King Te Autobiography of Huey P Long copyright copy 1933 by

Huey P Long renewal copyright copy 1961 by Russell B Long Unabridged reprint edition published 1996 by Da Capo Press by arrangement with Russell B Long Palmer Long and

Christopher R Brauchli Reprinted by permission of Palmer R Long Jr trusteeand R Katherine Long granddaughter of Huey P Long

Te poem ldquoUnited Fruit Companyrdquo from Canto General by Pablo Neruda translated by

Jack Schmitt copyright copy 1991 by the Fundacioacuten Pablo Neruda Published by theUniversity of California Press Reprinted by permission

Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication DataCohen Rich Te 1047297sh that ate the whale the life and times of Americarsquos banana king

Rich Cohen mdash 1st ed p cm Includes bibliographical references ISBN 978-0-374-29927-9 (alk paper) 1 Zemurray Samuel 1877ndash1961 2 Jewish businesspeoplemdashLouisianamdash

New OrleansmdashBiography 3 Banana trademdashLouisianamdashNew OrleansmdashHistory 4 United Fruit CompanymdashBiography I itle

HD9259B2 Z463 2012 3387634772092mdashdc23 [B]

2011041207

Designed by Abby Kagan

wwwfsgbookscom

1 3 5 7 9 10 8 6 4 2

Frontispiece Photograph of Samuel Zemurray reprinted by permission ofEliot Elisofon ime amp Life Pictures Getty Images

822019 The Fish That Ate the Whale The Life and Times of Americas Banana King

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullthe-fish-that-ate-the-whale-the-life-and-times-of-americas-banana-king 313

Sam Zemurray saw his 1047297rst banana in 1893 In the lore this is pre-

sented as a moment o clarity wherein the uture was revealed In some

versions the original banana is presented as a platonic ideal an arche-

type circling the young manrsquos head It is seen rom a great distance then

very close each reckle magni1047297ed As it was his 1047297rst banana I imagine

it situated on a velvet pillow in a display alongside Adamrsquos rib and

Robert Johnsonrsquos guitar Tere is much variation in the telling o this

story meaning each expert has written his or her own history meaning

the story has gone rom reportage to mythology meaning Sam the

Banana Man is Paul Bunyan and the 1047297rst banana is Babe the Blue Ox

In some versions Sam sees the banana in the gutter in Selma Alabama

where itrsquos allen rom a pushcart in some he sees it in the window o

a grocery and is smitten He rushes inside grabs the owner by the lapel

and makes him tell everything he knows In some he sees it amid a

pile o bananas on the deck o a ship plying the Alabama River on a lazysummer afernoon

Te most likely version has Sam seeing that 1047297rst banana in the

wares o a peddler in the alley behind his unclersquos store in Selma Te

American banana trade had begun twenty years beore but it was still

embryonic Few people had ever seen a banana I they were spoken o

at all it was as an oddity the way a person might speak o an Arican

cucumber today In this version Sam peppers the salesman with ques-

tions What is it Where did you get it How much does it cost Howast do they sell What do you do with the peel What kind o money

can you make But none o the stories mentions a crucial detail did

1

Selma

822019 The Fish That Ate the Whale The Life and Times of Americas Banana King

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12 bull The Fish That Ate the Whale

Zemurray taste that 1047297rst banana I like to imagine him peeling it eat-

ing the ruit in three bites then tossing the skin into the street the way

people did back then ossing it and saying ldquoWonderulrdquo In uture

years Zemurray always spoke o his product the way people speak othings they truly love as something antastical in part because itrsquos not

entirely necessary When he mentioned the nutritional value o ba-

nanas in interviews he added ldquoAnd o course itrsquos deliciousrdquo Putting us

at a urther remove rom Zemurray is the act that the kind o banana

he saw in Selma in 1893 the banana that made his ortune the variety

known as the Big Mike went extinct in the 1960s

Sam Zemurray was born in 1877 in the region o western Russia

once known as Bessarabia Itrsquos Moldavia today He grew up on a wheatarm in a 1047298at country ringed by hills His ather died young leaving

the amily beref without prospects Sam traveled to America with his

aunt in 1892 He was to establish himsel and send or the othersmdash

mother siblings He landed in New York then continued to Selma

Alabama where his uncle owned a store

He was ourteen or 1047297feen but you would guess him much older

Te immigrants o that era could not afford to be children Tey had to

struggle every minute o every day By sixteen he was as hardened as

the men in Walker Evansrsquos photos a tough operator a dead-end kid

coolly 1047297guring angles Wherersquos the play Whatrsquos in it or me His humor

was black his explanations ew He was driven by the same raw energy

that has always attracted the most ambitious to America then pushed

them to the head o the crowd Grasper climbermdashnasty ways o describ-

ing this kid who wants what you take or granted From his 1047297rst months

in America he was scheming looking or a way to get ahead You did notneed to be a Rockeeller to know the basics o the dream Start at the

bottom 1047297ght your way to the top

Over time Sam would develop a philosophy best expressed in a

handul o phrases Yoursquore there wersquore here Go see for yourself Donrsquot

trust the report

Tough immensely complicated he was in a undamental way

simple earthy He believed in staying close to the actionmdashin the 1047297elds

with the workers in the dives with the banana cowboys You drinkwith a man you learn what he knows (ldquoTere is no problem you canrsquot

solve i you understand your business rom A to Zrdquo he said later) In a

822019 The Fish That Ate the Whale The Life and Times of Americas Banana King

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Selma bull 13

amous exchange when challenged by a rival who claimed he could

not understand Zemurrayrsquos accent Zemurray said ldquoYoursquore 1047297red Can

you understand thatrdquo

Selma Alabama was the perect spot or a kid like Sam an incuba-tor a starter town picturesque yet aded grand but still small enough

to memorize A manuacturing center in the time o the Conederacy

it had since been allowed to dilapidate Tere was a main street a ruit

market a butcher shop a candy store a theater with plush seats a city

hall churches Tere were brick houses with curtains in the windows

and swings on the porchesmdashthe white side o town Tere were shot-

gun shacks blue and yellow and red ronted by weedy yardsmdashthe

Negro side o town Tere were taverns and houses o worship whereChristian gospel was mixed with Arican voodoo Tere were banks

savings and loans raternal orders Tere was a commercial district

where every store was 1047297lled with unduly optimistic businessmen

Tough the biography o Zemurrayrsquos uncle has been orgotten we

can take him as a stand-in or the generation o poor grandathers who

came 1047297rst who worked and worked and got nothing but a place o

honor in the amily photo in return Sometimes described as a grocery

sometimes as a general store his shop was precisely the sort that Jew-

ish immigrants had been establishing across the South or 1047297fy years

Such concerns were usually operated by men who came to America

because they were the youngest o many brothers without property or

plans Tese people went south because in the early days o the Amer-

ican republic it was not inhospitable to Hebrews Many began as ped-

dlers crossing the country with a mountain o merchandise strapped

to their backs You see them in ancient silver prints and daguerreo-types weathered men humping hal the world on their shoulders

pushing the other hal in a cartmdashbags o grain dinnerware tinware

lamps clothes canvas or tents chocolate anything an isolated armer

might want but could not 1047297nd in the sticks

When they had saved some money many o these men opened

stores which meant moving all that merchandise under a roo in a

town along their route Even now as you drive across the South you

will see their remnants baked into the soil like ossils an ancient ve-randa a ghost sign blistered rom years o rainmdash983148983137983162983137983154983157983155 983078 983155983151983150983155

983144983151983149983141 983151983142 983156983144983141 983152983141983150983150983161 983138983141983148983156 Tese men were careul to open no more

822019 The Fish That Ate the Whale The Life and Times of Americas Banana King

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14 bull The Fish That Ate the Whale

than one store per town partly because who needs the competition

partly because they worried about attracting the wrong kind o atten-

tion Tey stocked everything What they did not stock they could

order Te most successul grew into great department stores S A Shorein Winchester Alabama ounded by Russian-born Solomon Shore

ather o Dinah E Lewis amp Son Dry Goods in Hendersonville North

Carolina ounded by Polish-born Edward Lewis Capitol Department

Store in Fayetteville North Carolina ounded by the Russian Stein

brothers Others having started by extending credit to customers

evolved into Americarsquos 1047297rst investment banks Lehman Brothers

ounded by Henry Lehman a Jewish immigrant rom Bavaria began

as a dry goods store in Montgomery Alabama in 1844 Lazard Fregraveresounded by three Jewish brothers rom France began as a wholesale

business in New Orleans in 1848 Te store owned by Zemurrayrsquos uncle

was probably o this variety having begun as a young man carrying

merchandise it grew into a neat grocery on Broad Street

Selma closed early By ten pm the bustling o the marketplace had

given way to the swamp stink and cicadas but there was always action

or those who knew where to look in the private clubs where mer-

chants played aro and stud in the juke joints that stayed open rom

can till canrsquot According to those who knew him Sam did not care or

crowds and parties He had a restless mind and a persistent need to get

outdoors He liked to be alone You might see him wandering beneath

the lamps o town a tough lean young man in an overcoat hands bur-

ied deep in his pockets

He stacked shelves and checked inventory in his unclersquos store Now

and then he dealt with the salesmen who turned up with sample casesHe stood in the alley amid the garbage cans and cats asking about

suppliers and costs Tere was money to be made but not here He in-

terrogated customers He was looking or different work and would try

anything i only or experience His early lie was a series o adven-

tures with odd job leading to odd job Much o the color that would

later entertain magazine writersmdashSamrsquos lie had the dimensions o a

airy talemdashwere accumulated in his 1047297rst ew years in Selma

He worked as a tin merchant Well thatrsquos how it would be describedin the press ldquoYoung Sam Z bartered iron or livestock chickens and

pigsrdquo According to newspaper and magazine accounts he was in act

822019 The Fish That Ate the Whale The Life and Times of Americas Banana King

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Selma bull 15

employed by a struggling old-timer who was less tin merchant than

peddler the last o a vanishing breed the country cheapjack in a tat-

tered coat sharing a piece o chocolate with the boy Now and then he

might offer some wisdom Banks fail women leave but land lasts forever He combed trash piles on the edge o Selma searching or dis-

carded scraps o sheet metal the cast-off junk o the industrial age

which he piled on his cart and pushed rom arm to arm looking or

tradesmdashwire or a chicken coop in return or one o the razorbacks in

the pen Afer the particulars were agreed on Sam was told to get mov-

ing Catch and tie that animal boy It was Zemurrayrsquos 1047297rst real job

racing through the slop with a rope in his hand ldquoIn those daysrdquo he

told a reporter rom Life ldquoI could outrun any pig in Dixierdquo Paid a dol-lar a week he kept the job just long enough to know he would rather be

the man who owned the hog than the man who collected the junk and

would rather be the man who discarded the sheet metal than the man

who owned the hog

A series o jobs ollowed tried on and thrown off like thrif-store

suits He was a housecleaner and a delivery boy He turned a lathe or a

carpenter By eighteen he had saved enough to send or his brothers

and sisters hal a dozen pale young Jews who turned up in Alabama in

the last years o the nineteenth century

But his real lie began only when he saw that 1047297rst banana He de-

vised a plan soon afer he would travel to Mobile where the ruit boats

arrived rom Central America purchase a supply o his own carry

them back to Selma and go into business

822019 The Fish That Ate the Whale The Life and Times of Americas Banana King

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Zemurray took his money and went south Wisteria bloomed along the

railroad tracks owns drifed by He could smell the ocean beore he

could see it He was like a kid on the rontier who a day afer the har-

vest olds his savings into a roll and goes to try his luck in town

Mobile was a seedy industrial port 1047297lled with all the amiliar types

the sharpie the 1047297nancier the scoundrel the chucklehead the sport

Sam was a bit o everything He could be shrewd but he could also be

naiumlve He was greedy or inormation He took a room in a seamenrsquos

hotel near the port Te waterront was crossed by train tracksmdashdozens

o lines converged here Boxcars crammed with coal ruit cotton and

cane stood on the sidings Te railroad conductors were the aristocrats

o the scene Tey drank coffee in the station house smug in their check-

ered caps Te docks were crowded with stevedores most o them

immigrants rom Sicily Te train sheds were crowded with peddlers

most o them Jewish immigrants rom Poland and Russia Tey boughtmerchandise off the decks o ships and sold it rom carts in the streets

o Mobile

One evening Sam stood on the whar watching a Boston Fruit

banana boat sail into the harbor Te Boston Fruit Company which

would become United Fruit dominated the trade with a 1047298eet that car-

ried bananas rom Jamaica to Boston Charleston New Orleans and

Mobile Zemurray would have seen one o the smaller ships that made

the trip to the Gul ports a cutter with sails and engine Te unnelsent up black smoke Te pier strained under the weight o unloaders

who appeared as i out o nowhere whenever a ship landed As soon as

2

Ripes

822019 The Fish That Ate the Whale The Life and Times of Americas Banana King

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18 bull The Fish That Ate the Whale

the boat was anchored these men swarmed across the deck ants on a

sugar pile working in organized teams

In the South in the days beore mechanical equipment bananas

were unloaded by hand the workers carrying the cargo a stem at atimemdashrom the hold where the shipment was packed in ice onto the

deck o the ship A banana stem is the ruit o an entire treemdasha hun-

dred pounds or more Each stem holds perhaps a hundred bunches

each bunch holds perhaps nine hands each hand holds perhaps 1047297feen

1047297ngersmdasha 1047297nger being a single banana It was backbreaking work and

dangerous not just or the shoulders and arms but also or the central

ner vous system As any banana cowboy would tell you banana plants

are prized nesting places or scorpions When the stems are cut downthe killers go along or the ride rom the banana plantation to the

jungle railroad to the whar to the ship across the Gul to Mobile or

New Orleans or Boston where they spring out stinging the 1047297rst steve-

dore they happen upon

Most workers on the banana docks were West Indians who arrived

in the southern ports on the ships that carried the cargo Early last

century newspaper reporters looking or local color ofen wrote about

these hired hands painting them in barbarous shades o minstrel

blue Tey described dark skin big lips grinning aces heavy haunches

their shirts as white as their eyes lifing and hauling working as one

man Tey pictured them in sunlight and gaslight moving like shad-

ows along the docks docile content occasionally breaking into hymns

and psalms and strange tribal music that chilled their white overseers

ldquoMost o them are Jamaican negroesrdquo Frederick Upham Adams wrote

in Conquest of the ropics ldquoblack as the ace o spades and care-ree asthe birds who sing in the adjacent park Fat negro lsquomammiesrsquo trudge in

with handcarts loaded with ood and sweetmeat delicacies dear to the

negro taste Powerul clusters o electric lights 1047298ash out in the vast

covered shed which protects the docks and the myriad lights o the

ship add their glow to the general effectrdquo

Sam would have watched closely as the workers ormed lines that

snaked rom the deck o the ship down a ramp and across the pier to

the waiting boxcars (He wanted to learn every detail o the trade)Each stem was passed rom man to man until it reached the open door

822019 The Fish That Ate the Whale The Life and Times of Americas Banana King

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Ripes bull 19

o the train where an agent rom the company examined it or bruises

reckles color I the stem passed muster it was loaded into the car

which was air cooled and straw 1047297lled When the car was ull the door

was swung shut and locked An empty car was rolled into its placeTis continued or hoursmdasha shif might run rom three pm until

midnight When a train was packed the switchman signaled and the

cargo was carried across the South

Te bananas that did not pass muster were dumped on the side o

the yard where they were urther divided Some were designated as

turnings meaning they were on their way to being worthless At the

end o the day they were sold at a discount to store owners and ped-

dlers You could see them with their carts piled high trundling throughthe streets calling ldquoBananas bananas or sale A nickel a bunch Yes

we have bananas we have bananas or salerdquo

Te bananas that did not make the cut as greens or turnings were

designated ldquoripesrdquo and heaped in a sad pile A ripe is a banana you have

lef in the sun that has become as reckled as a Hardy boy Tese ba-

nanas though still good to eat delicious even would never make it to

the market in time In less than a week they would begin to sofen and

stink As ar as the merchants were concerned they were trash When

de1047297ning a ripe Boston Fruit used the ollowing standard one reckle

turning two reckles ripe

Sam noticed everythingmdashthe care with which the bananas were

handled the way each boxcar was 1047297lled and rolled to a siding how

men rom the banana company college men moved through the

crowd barking ordersmdashbut paid special attention to the growing pile

o ripes Anything can cause a banana to ripen early I you squeeze agreen banana it will turn in days instead o weeks ditto i itrsquos nicked

dented or banged A ripe banana will cause those around it to ripen

and those will cause still others to ripen until an entire boxcar is ru-

ined Beore rerigeration was perected as much as 15 percent o an

average cargo ended up in the ripe pile

Sam grew 1047297xated on ripes recognizing a product where others had

seen only trash It was the worldview o the immigrant understanding

how so-called garbage might be valued under a different name seeingnutrition where others saw only waste He was the son o a Russian

822019 The Fish That Ate the Whale The Life and Times of Americas Banana King

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20 bull The Fish That Ate the Whale

armer or whom ood had once been scarce enough to make even a

reckled banana seem precious

Afer the ship had been unloaded afer the trains had carried off

the green bananas afer the merchants and peddlers had taken awaythe turnings Sam walked down to the pier to talk to the company

agent Tey spoke as the sun went down the man with the Ivy League

elocution and the kid with the Russian accent who rolled his r rsquos and

spit his vowels Zemurray had $150 Tat was his stake He 1047297gured it

would go urther i it was spent on ripes He was no ool He knew what

this meantmdashthat he would have to move ast that he was entering a

race with the clock Tree days 1047297ve at the most Afer that he would be

lef with a pile o glue But he believed he could make it As ar as hewas concerned ripes were considered trash only because Boston Fruit

and similar 1047297rms were too slow-ooted to cover ground It was a calcu-

lation based on arrogance I can be ast where others have been slow

I can hustle where others have been satis1047297ed with the easy pickings o

the trade

Zemurrayrsquos 1047297rst cargo consisted o a ew thousand bananas He did

not spend all his money but retained a small balance which he used

to rent part o a boxcar on the Illinois Central Te trip to Selma was

scheduled to take three days meaning he would have just enough time

to get the ruit to market beore the sun did its worst In most cases a

ruit hauler would spend a ew dollars extra or a bed in the caboose

but since the reight charge used the last o his money Zemurray trav-

eled in the boxcar with his bananas the door open the country drifing

by It seems appropriate Zemurray sleeping beside his 1047297rst haul attend-

ing to his product like a baby in a nurseryTe train lef on a uesday morning say the sun 1047297ery above the

smoky reight-yard dawn the clank o wheels over switches the ocean

drifing away Color and country blue in the morning green at mid-

day red in the evening Zemurray sat in the boxcar doorway Te train

traveled maddeningly inuriatingly exceedingly slow In the country

it went the speed o a trotting mule In the towns it was no aster than

a man walking In the cities it stopped altogether sometimes or hours

waiting or cargo and crew Zemurray paced the railroad bed handson his hips muttering

Stoplights emporary holds What was supposed to be three days

822019 The Fish That Ate the Whale The Life and Times of Americas Banana King

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Ripes bull 21

was turning into 1047297ve six With each hour the bananas became more

pungent He spoke to the conductor who commiserated saying ldquoWhat

a terrible shamerdquo

In a Mississippi train yard where the redbrick buildings eed storesand tinsmiths crowded close to the tracks a brakeman hearing Samrsquos

story said ldquoYoursquove got good product there I you could just get word

ahead to the towns along the line Irsquom sure the grocery owners would

meet you at the platorms and buy the bananas right off the boxcarsrdquo

During the next delay Zemurray went into a Western Union offi ce

and spoke to a telegraph operator Having no money Sam offered a

deal i the man radioed every operator ahead asking each o them

to spread the word to local merchantsmdashdirt-cheap bananas comingthrough for merchants and peddlersmdashSam would share a percentage o

his sales When the Illinois Central arrived in the next town the cus-

tomers were waiting Zemurray talked terms through the boxcar door

a tower o ripes at his back en for eight Tirteen for ten He broke off

a bunch put the money in his pocket Te whistle blew the train rolled

on He sold the last banana in Selma then went home in the dark

When he tallied his money it came to $190 His 1047297rst real success afer

accounting or expenses Sam had earned $40 in six days

Zemurray had stumbled on a niche ripes overlooked at the bottom

o the trade It was logistics Could he move the product aster than the

product was ruined by time Tis work was nothing but stress the

margins ridiculously small (like countereiting dollar bills) but it was

a way in Whereas the big ruit companies monopolized the upper pre-

cincts o the industrymdashyou needed capital railroads and ships to op-

erate in greensmdashthe world o ripes was wide open Within a ew weekso his return to Selma Zemurray set out again then again then again

It was in these months on train platorms and in small towns that

Zemurray 1047297rst came to be known as Sam the Banana Man

822019 The Fish That Ate the Whale The Life and Times of Americas Banana King

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amp (() (+

-01

2134 5 0673

8193019

lt= gt(= ( amp (()

--7710-

amp C8=B KE

822019 The Fish That Ate the Whale The Life and Times of Americas Banana King

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullthe-fish-that-ate-the-whale-the-life-and-times-of-americas-banana-king 213

Farrar Straus and Giroux

18 West 18th Street New York 10011

Copyright copy 2012 by Rich Cohen Map copyright copy 2012 by Jeffrey L Ward

All rights reserved Distributed in Canada by DampM Publishers Inc

Printed in the United States of AmericaFirst edition 2012

Grateful acknowledgment is made for permission to reprint the following materialExcerpt from One Hundred Years of Solitude ( Cien antildeos de soledad ) by Gabriel Garciacutea

Maacuterquez translated by Gregory Rabassa copyright copy 1967 by Gabriel Garciacutea Maacuterqueztranslation copyright copy 1970 by Harper amp Row Publishers Inc Reprinted by permission of Agencia Literaria Carmen Balcells and HarperCollins Publishers

Excerpt from Living to ell the ale ( Vivir para contarla ) by Gabriel Garciacutea Maacuterqueztranslated by Edith Grossman translation copyright copy 2003 by Gabriel Garciacutea Maacuterquez

Used by permission of Alfred A Knopf a division of Random House IncExcerpt from Every Man a King Te Autobiography of Huey P Long copyright copy 1933 by

Huey P Long renewal copyright copy 1961 by Russell B Long Unabridged reprint edition published 1996 by Da Capo Press by arrangement with Russell B Long Palmer Long and

Christopher R Brauchli Reprinted by permission of Palmer R Long Jr trusteeand R Katherine Long granddaughter of Huey P Long

Te poem ldquoUnited Fruit Companyrdquo from Canto General by Pablo Neruda translated by

Jack Schmitt copyright copy 1991 by the Fundacioacuten Pablo Neruda Published by theUniversity of California Press Reprinted by permission

Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication DataCohen Rich Te 1047297sh that ate the whale the life and times of Americarsquos banana king

Rich Cohen mdash 1st ed p cm Includes bibliographical references ISBN 978-0-374-29927-9 (alk paper) 1 Zemurray Samuel 1877ndash1961 2 Jewish businesspeoplemdashLouisianamdash

New OrleansmdashBiography 3 Banana trademdashLouisianamdashNew OrleansmdashHistory 4 United Fruit CompanymdashBiography I itle

HD9259B2 Z463 2012 3387634772092mdashdc23 [B]

2011041207

Designed by Abby Kagan

wwwfsgbookscom

1 3 5 7 9 10 8 6 4 2

Frontispiece Photograph of Samuel Zemurray reprinted by permission ofEliot Elisofon ime amp Life Pictures Getty Images

822019 The Fish That Ate the Whale The Life and Times of Americas Banana King

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullthe-fish-that-ate-the-whale-the-life-and-times-of-americas-banana-king 313

Sam Zemurray saw his 1047297rst banana in 1893 In the lore this is pre-

sented as a moment o clarity wherein the uture was revealed In some

versions the original banana is presented as a platonic ideal an arche-

type circling the young manrsquos head It is seen rom a great distance then

very close each reckle magni1047297ed As it was his 1047297rst banana I imagine

it situated on a velvet pillow in a display alongside Adamrsquos rib and

Robert Johnsonrsquos guitar Tere is much variation in the telling o this

story meaning each expert has written his or her own history meaning

the story has gone rom reportage to mythology meaning Sam the

Banana Man is Paul Bunyan and the 1047297rst banana is Babe the Blue Ox

In some versions Sam sees the banana in the gutter in Selma Alabama

where itrsquos allen rom a pushcart in some he sees it in the window o

a grocery and is smitten He rushes inside grabs the owner by the lapel

and makes him tell everything he knows In some he sees it amid a

pile o bananas on the deck o a ship plying the Alabama River on a lazysummer afernoon

Te most likely version has Sam seeing that 1047297rst banana in the

wares o a peddler in the alley behind his unclersquos store in Selma Te

American banana trade had begun twenty years beore but it was still

embryonic Few people had ever seen a banana I they were spoken o

at all it was as an oddity the way a person might speak o an Arican

cucumber today In this version Sam peppers the salesman with ques-

tions What is it Where did you get it How much does it cost Howast do they sell What do you do with the peel What kind o money

can you make But none o the stories mentions a crucial detail did

1

Selma

822019 The Fish That Ate the Whale The Life and Times of Americas Banana King

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12 bull The Fish That Ate the Whale

Zemurray taste that 1047297rst banana I like to imagine him peeling it eat-

ing the ruit in three bites then tossing the skin into the street the way

people did back then ossing it and saying ldquoWonderulrdquo In uture

years Zemurray always spoke o his product the way people speak othings they truly love as something antastical in part because itrsquos not

entirely necessary When he mentioned the nutritional value o ba-

nanas in interviews he added ldquoAnd o course itrsquos deliciousrdquo Putting us

at a urther remove rom Zemurray is the act that the kind o banana

he saw in Selma in 1893 the banana that made his ortune the variety

known as the Big Mike went extinct in the 1960s

Sam Zemurray was born in 1877 in the region o western Russia

once known as Bessarabia Itrsquos Moldavia today He grew up on a wheatarm in a 1047298at country ringed by hills His ather died young leaving

the amily beref without prospects Sam traveled to America with his

aunt in 1892 He was to establish himsel and send or the othersmdash

mother siblings He landed in New York then continued to Selma

Alabama where his uncle owned a store

He was ourteen or 1047297feen but you would guess him much older

Te immigrants o that era could not afford to be children Tey had to

struggle every minute o every day By sixteen he was as hardened as

the men in Walker Evansrsquos photos a tough operator a dead-end kid

coolly 1047297guring angles Wherersquos the play Whatrsquos in it or me His humor

was black his explanations ew He was driven by the same raw energy

that has always attracted the most ambitious to America then pushed

them to the head o the crowd Grasper climbermdashnasty ways o describ-

ing this kid who wants what you take or granted From his 1047297rst months

in America he was scheming looking or a way to get ahead You did notneed to be a Rockeeller to know the basics o the dream Start at the

bottom 1047297ght your way to the top

Over time Sam would develop a philosophy best expressed in a

handul o phrases Yoursquore there wersquore here Go see for yourself Donrsquot

trust the report

Tough immensely complicated he was in a undamental way

simple earthy He believed in staying close to the actionmdashin the 1047297elds

with the workers in the dives with the banana cowboys You drinkwith a man you learn what he knows (ldquoTere is no problem you canrsquot

solve i you understand your business rom A to Zrdquo he said later) In a

822019 The Fish That Ate the Whale The Life and Times of Americas Banana King

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Selma bull 13

amous exchange when challenged by a rival who claimed he could

not understand Zemurrayrsquos accent Zemurray said ldquoYoursquore 1047297red Can

you understand thatrdquo

Selma Alabama was the perect spot or a kid like Sam an incuba-tor a starter town picturesque yet aded grand but still small enough

to memorize A manuacturing center in the time o the Conederacy

it had since been allowed to dilapidate Tere was a main street a ruit

market a butcher shop a candy store a theater with plush seats a city

hall churches Tere were brick houses with curtains in the windows

and swings on the porchesmdashthe white side o town Tere were shot-

gun shacks blue and yellow and red ronted by weedy yardsmdashthe

Negro side o town Tere were taverns and houses o worship whereChristian gospel was mixed with Arican voodoo Tere were banks

savings and loans raternal orders Tere was a commercial district

where every store was 1047297lled with unduly optimistic businessmen

Tough the biography o Zemurrayrsquos uncle has been orgotten we

can take him as a stand-in or the generation o poor grandathers who

came 1047297rst who worked and worked and got nothing but a place o

honor in the amily photo in return Sometimes described as a grocery

sometimes as a general store his shop was precisely the sort that Jew-

ish immigrants had been establishing across the South or 1047297fy years

Such concerns were usually operated by men who came to America

because they were the youngest o many brothers without property or

plans Tese people went south because in the early days o the Amer-

ican republic it was not inhospitable to Hebrews Many began as ped-

dlers crossing the country with a mountain o merchandise strapped

to their backs You see them in ancient silver prints and daguerreo-types weathered men humping hal the world on their shoulders

pushing the other hal in a cartmdashbags o grain dinnerware tinware

lamps clothes canvas or tents chocolate anything an isolated armer

might want but could not 1047297nd in the sticks

When they had saved some money many o these men opened

stores which meant moving all that merchandise under a roo in a

town along their route Even now as you drive across the South you

will see their remnants baked into the soil like ossils an ancient ve-randa a ghost sign blistered rom years o rainmdash983148983137983162983137983154983157983155 983078 983155983151983150983155

983144983151983149983141 983151983142 983156983144983141 983152983141983150983150983161 983138983141983148983156 Tese men were careul to open no more

822019 The Fish That Ate the Whale The Life and Times of Americas Banana King

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14 bull The Fish That Ate the Whale

than one store per town partly because who needs the competition

partly because they worried about attracting the wrong kind o atten-

tion Tey stocked everything What they did not stock they could

order Te most successul grew into great department stores S A Shorein Winchester Alabama ounded by Russian-born Solomon Shore

ather o Dinah E Lewis amp Son Dry Goods in Hendersonville North

Carolina ounded by Polish-born Edward Lewis Capitol Department

Store in Fayetteville North Carolina ounded by the Russian Stein

brothers Others having started by extending credit to customers

evolved into Americarsquos 1047297rst investment banks Lehman Brothers

ounded by Henry Lehman a Jewish immigrant rom Bavaria began

as a dry goods store in Montgomery Alabama in 1844 Lazard Fregraveresounded by three Jewish brothers rom France began as a wholesale

business in New Orleans in 1848 Te store owned by Zemurrayrsquos uncle

was probably o this variety having begun as a young man carrying

merchandise it grew into a neat grocery on Broad Street

Selma closed early By ten pm the bustling o the marketplace had

given way to the swamp stink and cicadas but there was always action

or those who knew where to look in the private clubs where mer-

chants played aro and stud in the juke joints that stayed open rom

can till canrsquot According to those who knew him Sam did not care or

crowds and parties He had a restless mind and a persistent need to get

outdoors He liked to be alone You might see him wandering beneath

the lamps o town a tough lean young man in an overcoat hands bur-

ied deep in his pockets

He stacked shelves and checked inventory in his unclersquos store Now

and then he dealt with the salesmen who turned up with sample casesHe stood in the alley amid the garbage cans and cats asking about

suppliers and costs Tere was money to be made but not here He in-

terrogated customers He was looking or different work and would try

anything i only or experience His early lie was a series o adven-

tures with odd job leading to odd job Much o the color that would

later entertain magazine writersmdashSamrsquos lie had the dimensions o a

airy talemdashwere accumulated in his 1047297rst ew years in Selma

He worked as a tin merchant Well thatrsquos how it would be describedin the press ldquoYoung Sam Z bartered iron or livestock chickens and

pigsrdquo According to newspaper and magazine accounts he was in act

822019 The Fish That Ate the Whale The Life and Times of Americas Banana King

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Selma bull 15

employed by a struggling old-timer who was less tin merchant than

peddler the last o a vanishing breed the country cheapjack in a tat-

tered coat sharing a piece o chocolate with the boy Now and then he

might offer some wisdom Banks fail women leave but land lasts forever He combed trash piles on the edge o Selma searching or dis-

carded scraps o sheet metal the cast-off junk o the industrial age

which he piled on his cart and pushed rom arm to arm looking or

tradesmdashwire or a chicken coop in return or one o the razorbacks in

the pen Afer the particulars were agreed on Sam was told to get mov-

ing Catch and tie that animal boy It was Zemurrayrsquos 1047297rst real job

racing through the slop with a rope in his hand ldquoIn those daysrdquo he

told a reporter rom Life ldquoI could outrun any pig in Dixierdquo Paid a dol-lar a week he kept the job just long enough to know he would rather be

the man who owned the hog than the man who collected the junk and

would rather be the man who discarded the sheet metal than the man

who owned the hog

A series o jobs ollowed tried on and thrown off like thrif-store

suits He was a housecleaner and a delivery boy He turned a lathe or a

carpenter By eighteen he had saved enough to send or his brothers

and sisters hal a dozen pale young Jews who turned up in Alabama in

the last years o the nineteenth century

But his real lie began only when he saw that 1047297rst banana He de-

vised a plan soon afer he would travel to Mobile where the ruit boats

arrived rom Central America purchase a supply o his own carry

them back to Selma and go into business

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Zemurray took his money and went south Wisteria bloomed along the

railroad tracks owns drifed by He could smell the ocean beore he

could see it He was like a kid on the rontier who a day afer the har-

vest olds his savings into a roll and goes to try his luck in town

Mobile was a seedy industrial port 1047297lled with all the amiliar types

the sharpie the 1047297nancier the scoundrel the chucklehead the sport

Sam was a bit o everything He could be shrewd but he could also be

naiumlve He was greedy or inormation He took a room in a seamenrsquos

hotel near the port Te waterront was crossed by train tracksmdashdozens

o lines converged here Boxcars crammed with coal ruit cotton and

cane stood on the sidings Te railroad conductors were the aristocrats

o the scene Tey drank coffee in the station house smug in their check-

ered caps Te docks were crowded with stevedores most o them

immigrants rom Sicily Te train sheds were crowded with peddlers

most o them Jewish immigrants rom Poland and Russia Tey boughtmerchandise off the decks o ships and sold it rom carts in the streets

o Mobile

One evening Sam stood on the whar watching a Boston Fruit

banana boat sail into the harbor Te Boston Fruit Company which

would become United Fruit dominated the trade with a 1047298eet that car-

ried bananas rom Jamaica to Boston Charleston New Orleans and

Mobile Zemurray would have seen one o the smaller ships that made

the trip to the Gul ports a cutter with sails and engine Te unnelsent up black smoke Te pier strained under the weight o unloaders

who appeared as i out o nowhere whenever a ship landed As soon as

2

Ripes

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18 bull The Fish That Ate the Whale

the boat was anchored these men swarmed across the deck ants on a

sugar pile working in organized teams

In the South in the days beore mechanical equipment bananas

were unloaded by hand the workers carrying the cargo a stem at atimemdashrom the hold where the shipment was packed in ice onto the

deck o the ship A banana stem is the ruit o an entire treemdasha hun-

dred pounds or more Each stem holds perhaps a hundred bunches

each bunch holds perhaps nine hands each hand holds perhaps 1047297feen

1047297ngersmdasha 1047297nger being a single banana It was backbreaking work and

dangerous not just or the shoulders and arms but also or the central

ner vous system As any banana cowboy would tell you banana plants

are prized nesting places or scorpions When the stems are cut downthe killers go along or the ride rom the banana plantation to the

jungle railroad to the whar to the ship across the Gul to Mobile or

New Orleans or Boston where they spring out stinging the 1047297rst steve-

dore they happen upon

Most workers on the banana docks were West Indians who arrived

in the southern ports on the ships that carried the cargo Early last

century newspaper reporters looking or local color ofen wrote about

these hired hands painting them in barbarous shades o minstrel

blue Tey described dark skin big lips grinning aces heavy haunches

their shirts as white as their eyes lifing and hauling working as one

man Tey pictured them in sunlight and gaslight moving like shad-

ows along the docks docile content occasionally breaking into hymns

and psalms and strange tribal music that chilled their white overseers

ldquoMost o them are Jamaican negroesrdquo Frederick Upham Adams wrote

in Conquest of the ropics ldquoblack as the ace o spades and care-ree asthe birds who sing in the adjacent park Fat negro lsquomammiesrsquo trudge in

with handcarts loaded with ood and sweetmeat delicacies dear to the

negro taste Powerul clusters o electric lights 1047298ash out in the vast

covered shed which protects the docks and the myriad lights o the

ship add their glow to the general effectrdquo

Sam would have watched closely as the workers ormed lines that

snaked rom the deck o the ship down a ramp and across the pier to

the waiting boxcars (He wanted to learn every detail o the trade)Each stem was passed rom man to man until it reached the open door

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Ripes bull 19

o the train where an agent rom the company examined it or bruises

reckles color I the stem passed muster it was loaded into the car

which was air cooled and straw 1047297lled When the car was ull the door

was swung shut and locked An empty car was rolled into its placeTis continued or hoursmdasha shif might run rom three pm until

midnight When a train was packed the switchman signaled and the

cargo was carried across the South

Te bananas that did not pass muster were dumped on the side o

the yard where they were urther divided Some were designated as

turnings meaning they were on their way to being worthless At the

end o the day they were sold at a discount to store owners and ped-

dlers You could see them with their carts piled high trundling throughthe streets calling ldquoBananas bananas or sale A nickel a bunch Yes

we have bananas we have bananas or salerdquo

Te bananas that did not make the cut as greens or turnings were

designated ldquoripesrdquo and heaped in a sad pile A ripe is a banana you have

lef in the sun that has become as reckled as a Hardy boy Tese ba-

nanas though still good to eat delicious even would never make it to

the market in time In less than a week they would begin to sofen and

stink As ar as the merchants were concerned they were trash When

de1047297ning a ripe Boston Fruit used the ollowing standard one reckle

turning two reckles ripe

Sam noticed everythingmdashthe care with which the bananas were

handled the way each boxcar was 1047297lled and rolled to a siding how

men rom the banana company college men moved through the

crowd barking ordersmdashbut paid special attention to the growing pile

o ripes Anything can cause a banana to ripen early I you squeeze agreen banana it will turn in days instead o weeks ditto i itrsquos nicked

dented or banged A ripe banana will cause those around it to ripen

and those will cause still others to ripen until an entire boxcar is ru-

ined Beore rerigeration was perected as much as 15 percent o an

average cargo ended up in the ripe pile

Sam grew 1047297xated on ripes recognizing a product where others had

seen only trash It was the worldview o the immigrant understanding

how so-called garbage might be valued under a different name seeingnutrition where others saw only waste He was the son o a Russian

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20 bull The Fish That Ate the Whale

armer or whom ood had once been scarce enough to make even a

reckled banana seem precious

Afer the ship had been unloaded afer the trains had carried off

the green bananas afer the merchants and peddlers had taken awaythe turnings Sam walked down to the pier to talk to the company

agent Tey spoke as the sun went down the man with the Ivy League

elocution and the kid with the Russian accent who rolled his r rsquos and

spit his vowels Zemurray had $150 Tat was his stake He 1047297gured it

would go urther i it was spent on ripes He was no ool He knew what

this meantmdashthat he would have to move ast that he was entering a

race with the clock Tree days 1047297ve at the most Afer that he would be

lef with a pile o glue But he believed he could make it As ar as hewas concerned ripes were considered trash only because Boston Fruit

and similar 1047297rms were too slow-ooted to cover ground It was a calcu-

lation based on arrogance I can be ast where others have been slow

I can hustle where others have been satis1047297ed with the easy pickings o

the trade

Zemurrayrsquos 1047297rst cargo consisted o a ew thousand bananas He did

not spend all his money but retained a small balance which he used

to rent part o a boxcar on the Illinois Central Te trip to Selma was

scheduled to take three days meaning he would have just enough time

to get the ruit to market beore the sun did its worst In most cases a

ruit hauler would spend a ew dollars extra or a bed in the caboose

but since the reight charge used the last o his money Zemurray trav-

eled in the boxcar with his bananas the door open the country drifing

by It seems appropriate Zemurray sleeping beside his 1047297rst haul attend-

ing to his product like a baby in a nurseryTe train lef on a uesday morning say the sun 1047297ery above the

smoky reight-yard dawn the clank o wheels over switches the ocean

drifing away Color and country blue in the morning green at mid-

day red in the evening Zemurray sat in the boxcar doorway Te train

traveled maddeningly inuriatingly exceedingly slow In the country

it went the speed o a trotting mule In the towns it was no aster than

a man walking In the cities it stopped altogether sometimes or hours

waiting or cargo and crew Zemurray paced the railroad bed handson his hips muttering

Stoplights emporary holds What was supposed to be three days

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Ripes bull 21

was turning into 1047297ve six With each hour the bananas became more

pungent He spoke to the conductor who commiserated saying ldquoWhat

a terrible shamerdquo

In a Mississippi train yard where the redbrick buildings eed storesand tinsmiths crowded close to the tracks a brakeman hearing Samrsquos

story said ldquoYoursquove got good product there I you could just get word

ahead to the towns along the line Irsquom sure the grocery owners would

meet you at the platorms and buy the bananas right off the boxcarsrdquo

During the next delay Zemurray went into a Western Union offi ce

and spoke to a telegraph operator Having no money Sam offered a

deal i the man radioed every operator ahead asking each o them

to spread the word to local merchantsmdashdirt-cheap bananas comingthrough for merchants and peddlersmdashSam would share a percentage o

his sales When the Illinois Central arrived in the next town the cus-

tomers were waiting Zemurray talked terms through the boxcar door

a tower o ripes at his back en for eight Tirteen for ten He broke off

a bunch put the money in his pocket Te whistle blew the train rolled

on He sold the last banana in Selma then went home in the dark

When he tallied his money it came to $190 His 1047297rst real success afer

accounting or expenses Sam had earned $40 in six days

Zemurray had stumbled on a niche ripes overlooked at the bottom

o the trade It was logistics Could he move the product aster than the

product was ruined by time Tis work was nothing but stress the

margins ridiculously small (like countereiting dollar bills) but it was

a way in Whereas the big ruit companies monopolized the upper pre-

cincts o the industrymdashyou needed capital railroads and ships to op-

erate in greensmdashthe world o ripes was wide open Within a ew weekso his return to Selma Zemurray set out again then again then again

It was in these months on train platorms and in small towns that

Zemurray 1047297rst came to be known as Sam the Banana Man

822019 The Fish That Ate the Whale The Life and Times of Americas Banana King

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amp (() (+

-01

2134 5 0673

8193019

lt= gt(= ( amp (()

--7710-

amp C8=B KE

822019 The Fish That Ate the Whale The Life and Times of Americas Banana King

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullthe-fish-that-ate-the-whale-the-life-and-times-of-americas-banana-king 313

Sam Zemurray saw his 1047297rst banana in 1893 In the lore this is pre-

sented as a moment o clarity wherein the uture was revealed In some

versions the original banana is presented as a platonic ideal an arche-

type circling the young manrsquos head It is seen rom a great distance then

very close each reckle magni1047297ed As it was his 1047297rst banana I imagine

it situated on a velvet pillow in a display alongside Adamrsquos rib and

Robert Johnsonrsquos guitar Tere is much variation in the telling o this

story meaning each expert has written his or her own history meaning

the story has gone rom reportage to mythology meaning Sam the

Banana Man is Paul Bunyan and the 1047297rst banana is Babe the Blue Ox

In some versions Sam sees the banana in the gutter in Selma Alabama

where itrsquos allen rom a pushcart in some he sees it in the window o

a grocery and is smitten He rushes inside grabs the owner by the lapel

and makes him tell everything he knows In some he sees it amid a

pile o bananas on the deck o a ship plying the Alabama River on a lazysummer afernoon

Te most likely version has Sam seeing that 1047297rst banana in the

wares o a peddler in the alley behind his unclersquos store in Selma Te

American banana trade had begun twenty years beore but it was still

embryonic Few people had ever seen a banana I they were spoken o

at all it was as an oddity the way a person might speak o an Arican

cucumber today In this version Sam peppers the salesman with ques-

tions What is it Where did you get it How much does it cost Howast do they sell What do you do with the peel What kind o money

can you make But none o the stories mentions a crucial detail did

1

Selma

822019 The Fish That Ate the Whale The Life and Times of Americas Banana King

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullthe-fish-that-ate-the-whale-the-life-and-times-of-americas-banana-king 413

12 bull The Fish That Ate the Whale

Zemurray taste that 1047297rst banana I like to imagine him peeling it eat-

ing the ruit in three bites then tossing the skin into the street the way

people did back then ossing it and saying ldquoWonderulrdquo In uture

years Zemurray always spoke o his product the way people speak othings they truly love as something antastical in part because itrsquos not

entirely necessary When he mentioned the nutritional value o ba-

nanas in interviews he added ldquoAnd o course itrsquos deliciousrdquo Putting us

at a urther remove rom Zemurray is the act that the kind o banana

he saw in Selma in 1893 the banana that made his ortune the variety

known as the Big Mike went extinct in the 1960s

Sam Zemurray was born in 1877 in the region o western Russia

once known as Bessarabia Itrsquos Moldavia today He grew up on a wheatarm in a 1047298at country ringed by hills His ather died young leaving

the amily beref without prospects Sam traveled to America with his

aunt in 1892 He was to establish himsel and send or the othersmdash

mother siblings He landed in New York then continued to Selma

Alabama where his uncle owned a store

He was ourteen or 1047297feen but you would guess him much older

Te immigrants o that era could not afford to be children Tey had to

struggle every minute o every day By sixteen he was as hardened as

the men in Walker Evansrsquos photos a tough operator a dead-end kid

coolly 1047297guring angles Wherersquos the play Whatrsquos in it or me His humor

was black his explanations ew He was driven by the same raw energy

that has always attracted the most ambitious to America then pushed

them to the head o the crowd Grasper climbermdashnasty ways o describ-

ing this kid who wants what you take or granted From his 1047297rst months

in America he was scheming looking or a way to get ahead You did notneed to be a Rockeeller to know the basics o the dream Start at the

bottom 1047297ght your way to the top

Over time Sam would develop a philosophy best expressed in a

handul o phrases Yoursquore there wersquore here Go see for yourself Donrsquot

trust the report

Tough immensely complicated he was in a undamental way

simple earthy He believed in staying close to the actionmdashin the 1047297elds

with the workers in the dives with the banana cowboys You drinkwith a man you learn what he knows (ldquoTere is no problem you canrsquot

solve i you understand your business rom A to Zrdquo he said later) In a

822019 The Fish That Ate the Whale The Life and Times of Americas Banana King

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullthe-fish-that-ate-the-whale-the-life-and-times-of-americas-banana-king 513

Selma bull 13

amous exchange when challenged by a rival who claimed he could

not understand Zemurrayrsquos accent Zemurray said ldquoYoursquore 1047297red Can

you understand thatrdquo

Selma Alabama was the perect spot or a kid like Sam an incuba-tor a starter town picturesque yet aded grand but still small enough

to memorize A manuacturing center in the time o the Conederacy

it had since been allowed to dilapidate Tere was a main street a ruit

market a butcher shop a candy store a theater with plush seats a city

hall churches Tere were brick houses with curtains in the windows

and swings on the porchesmdashthe white side o town Tere were shot-

gun shacks blue and yellow and red ronted by weedy yardsmdashthe

Negro side o town Tere were taverns and houses o worship whereChristian gospel was mixed with Arican voodoo Tere were banks

savings and loans raternal orders Tere was a commercial district

where every store was 1047297lled with unduly optimistic businessmen

Tough the biography o Zemurrayrsquos uncle has been orgotten we

can take him as a stand-in or the generation o poor grandathers who

came 1047297rst who worked and worked and got nothing but a place o

honor in the amily photo in return Sometimes described as a grocery

sometimes as a general store his shop was precisely the sort that Jew-

ish immigrants had been establishing across the South or 1047297fy years

Such concerns were usually operated by men who came to America

because they were the youngest o many brothers without property or

plans Tese people went south because in the early days o the Amer-

ican republic it was not inhospitable to Hebrews Many began as ped-

dlers crossing the country with a mountain o merchandise strapped

to their backs You see them in ancient silver prints and daguerreo-types weathered men humping hal the world on their shoulders

pushing the other hal in a cartmdashbags o grain dinnerware tinware

lamps clothes canvas or tents chocolate anything an isolated armer

might want but could not 1047297nd in the sticks

When they had saved some money many o these men opened

stores which meant moving all that merchandise under a roo in a

town along their route Even now as you drive across the South you

will see their remnants baked into the soil like ossils an ancient ve-randa a ghost sign blistered rom years o rainmdash983148983137983162983137983154983157983155 983078 983155983151983150983155

983144983151983149983141 983151983142 983156983144983141 983152983141983150983150983161 983138983141983148983156 Tese men were careul to open no more

822019 The Fish That Ate the Whale The Life and Times of Americas Banana King

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullthe-fish-that-ate-the-whale-the-life-and-times-of-americas-banana-king 613

14 bull The Fish That Ate the Whale

than one store per town partly because who needs the competition

partly because they worried about attracting the wrong kind o atten-

tion Tey stocked everything What they did not stock they could

order Te most successul grew into great department stores S A Shorein Winchester Alabama ounded by Russian-born Solomon Shore

ather o Dinah E Lewis amp Son Dry Goods in Hendersonville North

Carolina ounded by Polish-born Edward Lewis Capitol Department

Store in Fayetteville North Carolina ounded by the Russian Stein

brothers Others having started by extending credit to customers

evolved into Americarsquos 1047297rst investment banks Lehman Brothers

ounded by Henry Lehman a Jewish immigrant rom Bavaria began

as a dry goods store in Montgomery Alabama in 1844 Lazard Fregraveresounded by three Jewish brothers rom France began as a wholesale

business in New Orleans in 1848 Te store owned by Zemurrayrsquos uncle

was probably o this variety having begun as a young man carrying

merchandise it grew into a neat grocery on Broad Street

Selma closed early By ten pm the bustling o the marketplace had

given way to the swamp stink and cicadas but there was always action

or those who knew where to look in the private clubs where mer-

chants played aro and stud in the juke joints that stayed open rom

can till canrsquot According to those who knew him Sam did not care or

crowds and parties He had a restless mind and a persistent need to get

outdoors He liked to be alone You might see him wandering beneath

the lamps o town a tough lean young man in an overcoat hands bur-

ied deep in his pockets

He stacked shelves and checked inventory in his unclersquos store Now

and then he dealt with the salesmen who turned up with sample casesHe stood in the alley amid the garbage cans and cats asking about

suppliers and costs Tere was money to be made but not here He in-

terrogated customers He was looking or different work and would try

anything i only or experience His early lie was a series o adven-

tures with odd job leading to odd job Much o the color that would

later entertain magazine writersmdashSamrsquos lie had the dimensions o a

airy talemdashwere accumulated in his 1047297rst ew years in Selma

He worked as a tin merchant Well thatrsquos how it would be describedin the press ldquoYoung Sam Z bartered iron or livestock chickens and

pigsrdquo According to newspaper and magazine accounts he was in act

822019 The Fish That Ate the Whale The Life and Times of Americas Banana King

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullthe-fish-that-ate-the-whale-the-life-and-times-of-americas-banana-king 713

Selma bull 15

employed by a struggling old-timer who was less tin merchant than

peddler the last o a vanishing breed the country cheapjack in a tat-

tered coat sharing a piece o chocolate with the boy Now and then he

might offer some wisdom Banks fail women leave but land lasts forever He combed trash piles on the edge o Selma searching or dis-

carded scraps o sheet metal the cast-off junk o the industrial age

which he piled on his cart and pushed rom arm to arm looking or

tradesmdashwire or a chicken coop in return or one o the razorbacks in

the pen Afer the particulars were agreed on Sam was told to get mov-

ing Catch and tie that animal boy It was Zemurrayrsquos 1047297rst real job

racing through the slop with a rope in his hand ldquoIn those daysrdquo he

told a reporter rom Life ldquoI could outrun any pig in Dixierdquo Paid a dol-lar a week he kept the job just long enough to know he would rather be

the man who owned the hog than the man who collected the junk and

would rather be the man who discarded the sheet metal than the man

who owned the hog

A series o jobs ollowed tried on and thrown off like thrif-store

suits He was a housecleaner and a delivery boy He turned a lathe or a

carpenter By eighteen he had saved enough to send or his brothers

and sisters hal a dozen pale young Jews who turned up in Alabama in

the last years o the nineteenth century

But his real lie began only when he saw that 1047297rst banana He de-

vised a plan soon afer he would travel to Mobile where the ruit boats

arrived rom Central America purchase a supply o his own carry

them back to Selma and go into business

822019 The Fish That Ate the Whale The Life and Times of Americas Banana King

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Zemurray took his money and went south Wisteria bloomed along the

railroad tracks owns drifed by He could smell the ocean beore he

could see it He was like a kid on the rontier who a day afer the har-

vest olds his savings into a roll and goes to try his luck in town

Mobile was a seedy industrial port 1047297lled with all the amiliar types

the sharpie the 1047297nancier the scoundrel the chucklehead the sport

Sam was a bit o everything He could be shrewd but he could also be

naiumlve He was greedy or inormation He took a room in a seamenrsquos

hotel near the port Te waterront was crossed by train tracksmdashdozens

o lines converged here Boxcars crammed with coal ruit cotton and

cane stood on the sidings Te railroad conductors were the aristocrats

o the scene Tey drank coffee in the station house smug in their check-

ered caps Te docks were crowded with stevedores most o them

immigrants rom Sicily Te train sheds were crowded with peddlers

most o them Jewish immigrants rom Poland and Russia Tey boughtmerchandise off the decks o ships and sold it rom carts in the streets

o Mobile

One evening Sam stood on the whar watching a Boston Fruit

banana boat sail into the harbor Te Boston Fruit Company which

would become United Fruit dominated the trade with a 1047298eet that car-

ried bananas rom Jamaica to Boston Charleston New Orleans and

Mobile Zemurray would have seen one o the smaller ships that made

the trip to the Gul ports a cutter with sails and engine Te unnelsent up black smoke Te pier strained under the weight o unloaders

who appeared as i out o nowhere whenever a ship landed As soon as

2

Ripes

822019 The Fish That Ate the Whale The Life and Times of Americas Banana King

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18 bull The Fish That Ate the Whale

the boat was anchored these men swarmed across the deck ants on a

sugar pile working in organized teams

In the South in the days beore mechanical equipment bananas

were unloaded by hand the workers carrying the cargo a stem at atimemdashrom the hold where the shipment was packed in ice onto the

deck o the ship A banana stem is the ruit o an entire treemdasha hun-

dred pounds or more Each stem holds perhaps a hundred bunches

each bunch holds perhaps nine hands each hand holds perhaps 1047297feen

1047297ngersmdasha 1047297nger being a single banana It was backbreaking work and

dangerous not just or the shoulders and arms but also or the central

ner vous system As any banana cowboy would tell you banana plants

are prized nesting places or scorpions When the stems are cut downthe killers go along or the ride rom the banana plantation to the

jungle railroad to the whar to the ship across the Gul to Mobile or

New Orleans or Boston where they spring out stinging the 1047297rst steve-

dore they happen upon

Most workers on the banana docks were West Indians who arrived

in the southern ports on the ships that carried the cargo Early last

century newspaper reporters looking or local color ofen wrote about

these hired hands painting them in barbarous shades o minstrel

blue Tey described dark skin big lips grinning aces heavy haunches

their shirts as white as their eyes lifing and hauling working as one

man Tey pictured them in sunlight and gaslight moving like shad-

ows along the docks docile content occasionally breaking into hymns

and psalms and strange tribal music that chilled their white overseers

ldquoMost o them are Jamaican negroesrdquo Frederick Upham Adams wrote

in Conquest of the ropics ldquoblack as the ace o spades and care-ree asthe birds who sing in the adjacent park Fat negro lsquomammiesrsquo trudge in

with handcarts loaded with ood and sweetmeat delicacies dear to the

negro taste Powerul clusters o electric lights 1047298ash out in the vast

covered shed which protects the docks and the myriad lights o the

ship add their glow to the general effectrdquo

Sam would have watched closely as the workers ormed lines that

snaked rom the deck o the ship down a ramp and across the pier to

the waiting boxcars (He wanted to learn every detail o the trade)Each stem was passed rom man to man until it reached the open door

822019 The Fish That Ate the Whale The Life and Times of Americas Banana King

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Ripes bull 19

o the train where an agent rom the company examined it or bruises

reckles color I the stem passed muster it was loaded into the car

which was air cooled and straw 1047297lled When the car was ull the door

was swung shut and locked An empty car was rolled into its placeTis continued or hoursmdasha shif might run rom three pm until

midnight When a train was packed the switchman signaled and the

cargo was carried across the South

Te bananas that did not pass muster were dumped on the side o

the yard where they were urther divided Some were designated as

turnings meaning they were on their way to being worthless At the

end o the day they were sold at a discount to store owners and ped-

dlers You could see them with their carts piled high trundling throughthe streets calling ldquoBananas bananas or sale A nickel a bunch Yes

we have bananas we have bananas or salerdquo

Te bananas that did not make the cut as greens or turnings were

designated ldquoripesrdquo and heaped in a sad pile A ripe is a banana you have

lef in the sun that has become as reckled as a Hardy boy Tese ba-

nanas though still good to eat delicious even would never make it to

the market in time In less than a week they would begin to sofen and

stink As ar as the merchants were concerned they were trash When

de1047297ning a ripe Boston Fruit used the ollowing standard one reckle

turning two reckles ripe

Sam noticed everythingmdashthe care with which the bananas were

handled the way each boxcar was 1047297lled and rolled to a siding how

men rom the banana company college men moved through the

crowd barking ordersmdashbut paid special attention to the growing pile

o ripes Anything can cause a banana to ripen early I you squeeze agreen banana it will turn in days instead o weeks ditto i itrsquos nicked

dented or banged A ripe banana will cause those around it to ripen

and those will cause still others to ripen until an entire boxcar is ru-

ined Beore rerigeration was perected as much as 15 percent o an

average cargo ended up in the ripe pile

Sam grew 1047297xated on ripes recognizing a product where others had

seen only trash It was the worldview o the immigrant understanding

how so-called garbage might be valued under a different name seeingnutrition where others saw only waste He was the son o a Russian

822019 The Fish That Ate the Whale The Life and Times of Americas Banana King

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20 bull The Fish That Ate the Whale

armer or whom ood had once been scarce enough to make even a

reckled banana seem precious

Afer the ship had been unloaded afer the trains had carried off

the green bananas afer the merchants and peddlers had taken awaythe turnings Sam walked down to the pier to talk to the company

agent Tey spoke as the sun went down the man with the Ivy League

elocution and the kid with the Russian accent who rolled his r rsquos and

spit his vowels Zemurray had $150 Tat was his stake He 1047297gured it

would go urther i it was spent on ripes He was no ool He knew what

this meantmdashthat he would have to move ast that he was entering a

race with the clock Tree days 1047297ve at the most Afer that he would be

lef with a pile o glue But he believed he could make it As ar as hewas concerned ripes were considered trash only because Boston Fruit

and similar 1047297rms were too slow-ooted to cover ground It was a calcu-

lation based on arrogance I can be ast where others have been slow

I can hustle where others have been satis1047297ed with the easy pickings o

the trade

Zemurrayrsquos 1047297rst cargo consisted o a ew thousand bananas He did

not spend all his money but retained a small balance which he used

to rent part o a boxcar on the Illinois Central Te trip to Selma was

scheduled to take three days meaning he would have just enough time

to get the ruit to market beore the sun did its worst In most cases a

ruit hauler would spend a ew dollars extra or a bed in the caboose

but since the reight charge used the last o his money Zemurray trav-

eled in the boxcar with his bananas the door open the country drifing

by It seems appropriate Zemurray sleeping beside his 1047297rst haul attend-

ing to his product like a baby in a nurseryTe train lef on a uesday morning say the sun 1047297ery above the

smoky reight-yard dawn the clank o wheels over switches the ocean

drifing away Color and country blue in the morning green at mid-

day red in the evening Zemurray sat in the boxcar doorway Te train

traveled maddeningly inuriatingly exceedingly slow In the country

it went the speed o a trotting mule In the towns it was no aster than

a man walking In the cities it stopped altogether sometimes or hours

waiting or cargo and crew Zemurray paced the railroad bed handson his hips muttering

Stoplights emporary holds What was supposed to be three days

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Ripes bull 21

was turning into 1047297ve six With each hour the bananas became more

pungent He spoke to the conductor who commiserated saying ldquoWhat

a terrible shamerdquo

In a Mississippi train yard where the redbrick buildings eed storesand tinsmiths crowded close to the tracks a brakeman hearing Samrsquos

story said ldquoYoursquove got good product there I you could just get word

ahead to the towns along the line Irsquom sure the grocery owners would

meet you at the platorms and buy the bananas right off the boxcarsrdquo

During the next delay Zemurray went into a Western Union offi ce

and spoke to a telegraph operator Having no money Sam offered a

deal i the man radioed every operator ahead asking each o them

to spread the word to local merchantsmdashdirt-cheap bananas comingthrough for merchants and peddlersmdashSam would share a percentage o

his sales When the Illinois Central arrived in the next town the cus-

tomers were waiting Zemurray talked terms through the boxcar door

a tower o ripes at his back en for eight Tirteen for ten He broke off

a bunch put the money in his pocket Te whistle blew the train rolled

on He sold the last banana in Selma then went home in the dark

When he tallied his money it came to $190 His 1047297rst real success afer

accounting or expenses Sam had earned $40 in six days

Zemurray had stumbled on a niche ripes overlooked at the bottom

o the trade It was logistics Could he move the product aster than the

product was ruined by time Tis work was nothing but stress the

margins ridiculously small (like countereiting dollar bills) but it was

a way in Whereas the big ruit companies monopolized the upper pre-

cincts o the industrymdashyou needed capital railroads and ships to op-

erate in greensmdashthe world o ripes was wide open Within a ew weekso his return to Selma Zemurray set out again then again then again

It was in these months on train platorms and in small towns that

Zemurray 1047297rst came to be known as Sam the Banana Man

822019 The Fish That Ate the Whale The Life and Times of Americas Banana King

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amp (() (+

-01

2134 5 0673

8193019

lt= gt(= ( amp (()

--7710-

amp C8=B KE

822019 The Fish That Ate the Whale The Life and Times of Americas Banana King

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullthe-fish-that-ate-the-whale-the-life-and-times-of-americas-banana-king 413

12 bull The Fish That Ate the Whale

Zemurray taste that 1047297rst banana I like to imagine him peeling it eat-

ing the ruit in three bites then tossing the skin into the street the way

people did back then ossing it and saying ldquoWonderulrdquo In uture

years Zemurray always spoke o his product the way people speak othings they truly love as something antastical in part because itrsquos not

entirely necessary When he mentioned the nutritional value o ba-

nanas in interviews he added ldquoAnd o course itrsquos deliciousrdquo Putting us

at a urther remove rom Zemurray is the act that the kind o banana

he saw in Selma in 1893 the banana that made his ortune the variety

known as the Big Mike went extinct in the 1960s

Sam Zemurray was born in 1877 in the region o western Russia

once known as Bessarabia Itrsquos Moldavia today He grew up on a wheatarm in a 1047298at country ringed by hills His ather died young leaving

the amily beref without prospects Sam traveled to America with his

aunt in 1892 He was to establish himsel and send or the othersmdash

mother siblings He landed in New York then continued to Selma

Alabama where his uncle owned a store

He was ourteen or 1047297feen but you would guess him much older

Te immigrants o that era could not afford to be children Tey had to

struggle every minute o every day By sixteen he was as hardened as

the men in Walker Evansrsquos photos a tough operator a dead-end kid

coolly 1047297guring angles Wherersquos the play Whatrsquos in it or me His humor

was black his explanations ew He was driven by the same raw energy

that has always attracted the most ambitious to America then pushed

them to the head o the crowd Grasper climbermdashnasty ways o describ-

ing this kid who wants what you take or granted From his 1047297rst months

in America he was scheming looking or a way to get ahead You did notneed to be a Rockeeller to know the basics o the dream Start at the

bottom 1047297ght your way to the top

Over time Sam would develop a philosophy best expressed in a

handul o phrases Yoursquore there wersquore here Go see for yourself Donrsquot

trust the report

Tough immensely complicated he was in a undamental way

simple earthy He believed in staying close to the actionmdashin the 1047297elds

with the workers in the dives with the banana cowboys You drinkwith a man you learn what he knows (ldquoTere is no problem you canrsquot

solve i you understand your business rom A to Zrdquo he said later) In a

822019 The Fish That Ate the Whale The Life and Times of Americas Banana King

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Selma bull 13

amous exchange when challenged by a rival who claimed he could

not understand Zemurrayrsquos accent Zemurray said ldquoYoursquore 1047297red Can

you understand thatrdquo

Selma Alabama was the perect spot or a kid like Sam an incuba-tor a starter town picturesque yet aded grand but still small enough

to memorize A manuacturing center in the time o the Conederacy

it had since been allowed to dilapidate Tere was a main street a ruit

market a butcher shop a candy store a theater with plush seats a city

hall churches Tere were brick houses with curtains in the windows

and swings on the porchesmdashthe white side o town Tere were shot-

gun shacks blue and yellow and red ronted by weedy yardsmdashthe

Negro side o town Tere were taverns and houses o worship whereChristian gospel was mixed with Arican voodoo Tere were banks

savings and loans raternal orders Tere was a commercial district

where every store was 1047297lled with unduly optimistic businessmen

Tough the biography o Zemurrayrsquos uncle has been orgotten we

can take him as a stand-in or the generation o poor grandathers who

came 1047297rst who worked and worked and got nothing but a place o

honor in the amily photo in return Sometimes described as a grocery

sometimes as a general store his shop was precisely the sort that Jew-

ish immigrants had been establishing across the South or 1047297fy years

Such concerns were usually operated by men who came to America

because they were the youngest o many brothers without property or

plans Tese people went south because in the early days o the Amer-

ican republic it was not inhospitable to Hebrews Many began as ped-

dlers crossing the country with a mountain o merchandise strapped

to their backs You see them in ancient silver prints and daguerreo-types weathered men humping hal the world on their shoulders

pushing the other hal in a cartmdashbags o grain dinnerware tinware

lamps clothes canvas or tents chocolate anything an isolated armer

might want but could not 1047297nd in the sticks

When they had saved some money many o these men opened

stores which meant moving all that merchandise under a roo in a

town along their route Even now as you drive across the South you

will see their remnants baked into the soil like ossils an ancient ve-randa a ghost sign blistered rom years o rainmdash983148983137983162983137983154983157983155 983078 983155983151983150983155

983144983151983149983141 983151983142 983156983144983141 983152983141983150983150983161 983138983141983148983156 Tese men were careul to open no more

822019 The Fish That Ate the Whale The Life and Times of Americas Banana King

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullthe-fish-that-ate-the-whale-the-life-and-times-of-americas-banana-king 613

14 bull The Fish That Ate the Whale

than one store per town partly because who needs the competition

partly because they worried about attracting the wrong kind o atten-

tion Tey stocked everything What they did not stock they could

order Te most successul grew into great department stores S A Shorein Winchester Alabama ounded by Russian-born Solomon Shore

ather o Dinah E Lewis amp Son Dry Goods in Hendersonville North

Carolina ounded by Polish-born Edward Lewis Capitol Department

Store in Fayetteville North Carolina ounded by the Russian Stein

brothers Others having started by extending credit to customers

evolved into Americarsquos 1047297rst investment banks Lehman Brothers

ounded by Henry Lehman a Jewish immigrant rom Bavaria began

as a dry goods store in Montgomery Alabama in 1844 Lazard Fregraveresounded by three Jewish brothers rom France began as a wholesale

business in New Orleans in 1848 Te store owned by Zemurrayrsquos uncle

was probably o this variety having begun as a young man carrying

merchandise it grew into a neat grocery on Broad Street

Selma closed early By ten pm the bustling o the marketplace had

given way to the swamp stink and cicadas but there was always action

or those who knew where to look in the private clubs where mer-

chants played aro and stud in the juke joints that stayed open rom

can till canrsquot According to those who knew him Sam did not care or

crowds and parties He had a restless mind and a persistent need to get

outdoors He liked to be alone You might see him wandering beneath

the lamps o town a tough lean young man in an overcoat hands bur-

ied deep in his pockets

He stacked shelves and checked inventory in his unclersquos store Now

and then he dealt with the salesmen who turned up with sample casesHe stood in the alley amid the garbage cans and cats asking about

suppliers and costs Tere was money to be made but not here He in-

terrogated customers He was looking or different work and would try

anything i only or experience His early lie was a series o adven-

tures with odd job leading to odd job Much o the color that would

later entertain magazine writersmdashSamrsquos lie had the dimensions o a

airy talemdashwere accumulated in his 1047297rst ew years in Selma

He worked as a tin merchant Well thatrsquos how it would be describedin the press ldquoYoung Sam Z bartered iron or livestock chickens and

pigsrdquo According to newspaper and magazine accounts he was in act

822019 The Fish That Ate the Whale The Life and Times of Americas Banana King

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullthe-fish-that-ate-the-whale-the-life-and-times-of-americas-banana-king 713

Selma bull 15

employed by a struggling old-timer who was less tin merchant than

peddler the last o a vanishing breed the country cheapjack in a tat-

tered coat sharing a piece o chocolate with the boy Now and then he

might offer some wisdom Banks fail women leave but land lasts forever He combed trash piles on the edge o Selma searching or dis-

carded scraps o sheet metal the cast-off junk o the industrial age

which he piled on his cart and pushed rom arm to arm looking or

tradesmdashwire or a chicken coop in return or one o the razorbacks in

the pen Afer the particulars were agreed on Sam was told to get mov-

ing Catch and tie that animal boy It was Zemurrayrsquos 1047297rst real job

racing through the slop with a rope in his hand ldquoIn those daysrdquo he

told a reporter rom Life ldquoI could outrun any pig in Dixierdquo Paid a dol-lar a week he kept the job just long enough to know he would rather be

the man who owned the hog than the man who collected the junk and

would rather be the man who discarded the sheet metal than the man

who owned the hog

A series o jobs ollowed tried on and thrown off like thrif-store

suits He was a housecleaner and a delivery boy He turned a lathe or a

carpenter By eighteen he had saved enough to send or his brothers

and sisters hal a dozen pale young Jews who turned up in Alabama in

the last years o the nineteenth century

But his real lie began only when he saw that 1047297rst banana He de-

vised a plan soon afer he would travel to Mobile where the ruit boats

arrived rom Central America purchase a supply o his own carry

them back to Selma and go into business

822019 The Fish That Ate the Whale The Life and Times of Americas Banana King

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullthe-fish-that-ate-the-whale-the-life-and-times-of-americas-banana-king 813

Zemurray took his money and went south Wisteria bloomed along the

railroad tracks owns drifed by He could smell the ocean beore he

could see it He was like a kid on the rontier who a day afer the har-

vest olds his savings into a roll and goes to try his luck in town

Mobile was a seedy industrial port 1047297lled with all the amiliar types

the sharpie the 1047297nancier the scoundrel the chucklehead the sport

Sam was a bit o everything He could be shrewd but he could also be

naiumlve He was greedy or inormation He took a room in a seamenrsquos

hotel near the port Te waterront was crossed by train tracksmdashdozens

o lines converged here Boxcars crammed with coal ruit cotton and

cane stood on the sidings Te railroad conductors were the aristocrats

o the scene Tey drank coffee in the station house smug in their check-

ered caps Te docks were crowded with stevedores most o them

immigrants rom Sicily Te train sheds were crowded with peddlers

most o them Jewish immigrants rom Poland and Russia Tey boughtmerchandise off the decks o ships and sold it rom carts in the streets

o Mobile

One evening Sam stood on the whar watching a Boston Fruit

banana boat sail into the harbor Te Boston Fruit Company which

would become United Fruit dominated the trade with a 1047298eet that car-

ried bananas rom Jamaica to Boston Charleston New Orleans and

Mobile Zemurray would have seen one o the smaller ships that made

the trip to the Gul ports a cutter with sails and engine Te unnelsent up black smoke Te pier strained under the weight o unloaders

who appeared as i out o nowhere whenever a ship landed As soon as

2

Ripes

822019 The Fish That Ate the Whale The Life and Times of Americas Banana King

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullthe-fish-that-ate-the-whale-the-life-and-times-of-americas-banana-king 913

18 bull The Fish That Ate the Whale

the boat was anchored these men swarmed across the deck ants on a

sugar pile working in organized teams

In the South in the days beore mechanical equipment bananas

were unloaded by hand the workers carrying the cargo a stem at atimemdashrom the hold where the shipment was packed in ice onto the

deck o the ship A banana stem is the ruit o an entire treemdasha hun-

dred pounds or more Each stem holds perhaps a hundred bunches

each bunch holds perhaps nine hands each hand holds perhaps 1047297feen

1047297ngersmdasha 1047297nger being a single banana It was backbreaking work and

dangerous not just or the shoulders and arms but also or the central

ner vous system As any banana cowboy would tell you banana plants

are prized nesting places or scorpions When the stems are cut downthe killers go along or the ride rom the banana plantation to the

jungle railroad to the whar to the ship across the Gul to Mobile or

New Orleans or Boston where they spring out stinging the 1047297rst steve-

dore they happen upon

Most workers on the banana docks were West Indians who arrived

in the southern ports on the ships that carried the cargo Early last

century newspaper reporters looking or local color ofen wrote about

these hired hands painting them in barbarous shades o minstrel

blue Tey described dark skin big lips grinning aces heavy haunches

their shirts as white as their eyes lifing and hauling working as one

man Tey pictured them in sunlight and gaslight moving like shad-

ows along the docks docile content occasionally breaking into hymns

and psalms and strange tribal music that chilled their white overseers

ldquoMost o them are Jamaican negroesrdquo Frederick Upham Adams wrote

in Conquest of the ropics ldquoblack as the ace o spades and care-ree asthe birds who sing in the adjacent park Fat negro lsquomammiesrsquo trudge in

with handcarts loaded with ood and sweetmeat delicacies dear to the

negro taste Powerul clusters o electric lights 1047298ash out in the vast

covered shed which protects the docks and the myriad lights o the

ship add their glow to the general effectrdquo

Sam would have watched closely as the workers ormed lines that

snaked rom the deck o the ship down a ramp and across the pier to

the waiting boxcars (He wanted to learn every detail o the trade)Each stem was passed rom man to man until it reached the open door

822019 The Fish That Ate the Whale The Life and Times of Americas Banana King

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullthe-fish-that-ate-the-whale-the-life-and-times-of-americas-banana-king 1013

Ripes bull 19

o the train where an agent rom the company examined it or bruises

reckles color I the stem passed muster it was loaded into the car

which was air cooled and straw 1047297lled When the car was ull the door

was swung shut and locked An empty car was rolled into its placeTis continued or hoursmdasha shif might run rom three pm until

midnight When a train was packed the switchman signaled and the

cargo was carried across the South

Te bananas that did not pass muster were dumped on the side o

the yard where they were urther divided Some were designated as

turnings meaning they were on their way to being worthless At the

end o the day they were sold at a discount to store owners and ped-

dlers You could see them with their carts piled high trundling throughthe streets calling ldquoBananas bananas or sale A nickel a bunch Yes

we have bananas we have bananas or salerdquo

Te bananas that did not make the cut as greens or turnings were

designated ldquoripesrdquo and heaped in a sad pile A ripe is a banana you have

lef in the sun that has become as reckled as a Hardy boy Tese ba-

nanas though still good to eat delicious even would never make it to

the market in time In less than a week they would begin to sofen and

stink As ar as the merchants were concerned they were trash When

de1047297ning a ripe Boston Fruit used the ollowing standard one reckle

turning two reckles ripe

Sam noticed everythingmdashthe care with which the bananas were

handled the way each boxcar was 1047297lled and rolled to a siding how

men rom the banana company college men moved through the

crowd barking ordersmdashbut paid special attention to the growing pile

o ripes Anything can cause a banana to ripen early I you squeeze agreen banana it will turn in days instead o weeks ditto i itrsquos nicked

dented or banged A ripe banana will cause those around it to ripen

and those will cause still others to ripen until an entire boxcar is ru-

ined Beore rerigeration was perected as much as 15 percent o an

average cargo ended up in the ripe pile

Sam grew 1047297xated on ripes recognizing a product where others had

seen only trash It was the worldview o the immigrant understanding

how so-called garbage might be valued under a different name seeingnutrition where others saw only waste He was the son o a Russian

822019 The Fish That Ate the Whale The Life and Times of Americas Banana King

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullthe-fish-that-ate-the-whale-the-life-and-times-of-americas-banana-king 1113

20 bull The Fish That Ate the Whale

armer or whom ood had once been scarce enough to make even a

reckled banana seem precious

Afer the ship had been unloaded afer the trains had carried off

the green bananas afer the merchants and peddlers had taken awaythe turnings Sam walked down to the pier to talk to the company

agent Tey spoke as the sun went down the man with the Ivy League

elocution and the kid with the Russian accent who rolled his r rsquos and

spit his vowels Zemurray had $150 Tat was his stake He 1047297gured it

would go urther i it was spent on ripes He was no ool He knew what

this meantmdashthat he would have to move ast that he was entering a

race with the clock Tree days 1047297ve at the most Afer that he would be

lef with a pile o glue But he believed he could make it As ar as hewas concerned ripes were considered trash only because Boston Fruit

and similar 1047297rms were too slow-ooted to cover ground It was a calcu-

lation based on arrogance I can be ast where others have been slow

I can hustle where others have been satis1047297ed with the easy pickings o

the trade

Zemurrayrsquos 1047297rst cargo consisted o a ew thousand bananas He did

not spend all his money but retained a small balance which he used

to rent part o a boxcar on the Illinois Central Te trip to Selma was

scheduled to take three days meaning he would have just enough time

to get the ruit to market beore the sun did its worst In most cases a

ruit hauler would spend a ew dollars extra or a bed in the caboose

but since the reight charge used the last o his money Zemurray trav-

eled in the boxcar with his bananas the door open the country drifing

by It seems appropriate Zemurray sleeping beside his 1047297rst haul attend-

ing to his product like a baby in a nurseryTe train lef on a uesday morning say the sun 1047297ery above the

smoky reight-yard dawn the clank o wheels over switches the ocean

drifing away Color and country blue in the morning green at mid-

day red in the evening Zemurray sat in the boxcar doorway Te train

traveled maddeningly inuriatingly exceedingly slow In the country

it went the speed o a trotting mule In the towns it was no aster than

a man walking In the cities it stopped altogether sometimes or hours

waiting or cargo and crew Zemurray paced the railroad bed handson his hips muttering

Stoplights emporary holds What was supposed to be three days

822019 The Fish That Ate the Whale The Life and Times of Americas Banana King

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullthe-fish-that-ate-the-whale-the-life-and-times-of-americas-banana-king 1213

Ripes bull 21

was turning into 1047297ve six With each hour the bananas became more

pungent He spoke to the conductor who commiserated saying ldquoWhat

a terrible shamerdquo

In a Mississippi train yard where the redbrick buildings eed storesand tinsmiths crowded close to the tracks a brakeman hearing Samrsquos

story said ldquoYoursquove got good product there I you could just get word

ahead to the towns along the line Irsquom sure the grocery owners would

meet you at the platorms and buy the bananas right off the boxcarsrdquo

During the next delay Zemurray went into a Western Union offi ce

and spoke to a telegraph operator Having no money Sam offered a

deal i the man radioed every operator ahead asking each o them

to spread the word to local merchantsmdashdirt-cheap bananas comingthrough for merchants and peddlersmdashSam would share a percentage o

his sales When the Illinois Central arrived in the next town the cus-

tomers were waiting Zemurray talked terms through the boxcar door

a tower o ripes at his back en for eight Tirteen for ten He broke off

a bunch put the money in his pocket Te whistle blew the train rolled

on He sold the last banana in Selma then went home in the dark

When he tallied his money it came to $190 His 1047297rst real success afer

accounting or expenses Sam had earned $40 in six days

Zemurray had stumbled on a niche ripes overlooked at the bottom

o the trade It was logistics Could he move the product aster than the

product was ruined by time Tis work was nothing but stress the

margins ridiculously small (like countereiting dollar bills) but it was

a way in Whereas the big ruit companies monopolized the upper pre-

cincts o the industrymdashyou needed capital railroads and ships to op-

erate in greensmdashthe world o ripes was wide open Within a ew weekso his return to Selma Zemurray set out again then again then again

It was in these months on train platorms and in small towns that

Zemurray 1047297rst came to be known as Sam the Banana Man

822019 The Fish That Ate the Whale The Life and Times of Americas Banana King

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullthe-fish-that-ate-the-whale-the-life-and-times-of-americas-banana-king 1313

amp (() (+

-01

2134 5 0673

8193019

lt= gt(= ( amp (()

--7710-

amp C8=B KE

822019 The Fish That Ate the Whale The Life and Times of Americas Banana King

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullthe-fish-that-ate-the-whale-the-life-and-times-of-americas-banana-king 513

Selma bull 13

amous exchange when challenged by a rival who claimed he could

not understand Zemurrayrsquos accent Zemurray said ldquoYoursquore 1047297red Can

you understand thatrdquo

Selma Alabama was the perect spot or a kid like Sam an incuba-tor a starter town picturesque yet aded grand but still small enough

to memorize A manuacturing center in the time o the Conederacy

it had since been allowed to dilapidate Tere was a main street a ruit

market a butcher shop a candy store a theater with plush seats a city

hall churches Tere were brick houses with curtains in the windows

and swings on the porchesmdashthe white side o town Tere were shot-

gun shacks blue and yellow and red ronted by weedy yardsmdashthe

Negro side o town Tere were taverns and houses o worship whereChristian gospel was mixed with Arican voodoo Tere were banks

savings and loans raternal orders Tere was a commercial district

where every store was 1047297lled with unduly optimistic businessmen

Tough the biography o Zemurrayrsquos uncle has been orgotten we

can take him as a stand-in or the generation o poor grandathers who

came 1047297rst who worked and worked and got nothing but a place o

honor in the amily photo in return Sometimes described as a grocery

sometimes as a general store his shop was precisely the sort that Jew-

ish immigrants had been establishing across the South or 1047297fy years

Such concerns were usually operated by men who came to America

because they were the youngest o many brothers without property or

plans Tese people went south because in the early days o the Amer-

ican republic it was not inhospitable to Hebrews Many began as ped-

dlers crossing the country with a mountain o merchandise strapped

to their backs You see them in ancient silver prints and daguerreo-types weathered men humping hal the world on their shoulders

pushing the other hal in a cartmdashbags o grain dinnerware tinware

lamps clothes canvas or tents chocolate anything an isolated armer

might want but could not 1047297nd in the sticks

When they had saved some money many o these men opened

stores which meant moving all that merchandise under a roo in a

town along their route Even now as you drive across the South you

will see their remnants baked into the soil like ossils an ancient ve-randa a ghost sign blistered rom years o rainmdash983148983137983162983137983154983157983155 983078 983155983151983150983155

983144983151983149983141 983151983142 983156983144983141 983152983141983150983150983161 983138983141983148983156 Tese men were careul to open no more

822019 The Fish That Ate the Whale The Life and Times of Americas Banana King

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullthe-fish-that-ate-the-whale-the-life-and-times-of-americas-banana-king 613

14 bull The Fish That Ate the Whale

than one store per town partly because who needs the competition

partly because they worried about attracting the wrong kind o atten-

tion Tey stocked everything What they did not stock they could

order Te most successul grew into great department stores S A Shorein Winchester Alabama ounded by Russian-born Solomon Shore

ather o Dinah E Lewis amp Son Dry Goods in Hendersonville North

Carolina ounded by Polish-born Edward Lewis Capitol Department

Store in Fayetteville North Carolina ounded by the Russian Stein

brothers Others having started by extending credit to customers

evolved into Americarsquos 1047297rst investment banks Lehman Brothers

ounded by Henry Lehman a Jewish immigrant rom Bavaria began

as a dry goods store in Montgomery Alabama in 1844 Lazard Fregraveresounded by three Jewish brothers rom France began as a wholesale

business in New Orleans in 1848 Te store owned by Zemurrayrsquos uncle

was probably o this variety having begun as a young man carrying

merchandise it grew into a neat grocery on Broad Street

Selma closed early By ten pm the bustling o the marketplace had

given way to the swamp stink and cicadas but there was always action

or those who knew where to look in the private clubs where mer-

chants played aro and stud in the juke joints that stayed open rom

can till canrsquot According to those who knew him Sam did not care or

crowds and parties He had a restless mind and a persistent need to get

outdoors He liked to be alone You might see him wandering beneath

the lamps o town a tough lean young man in an overcoat hands bur-

ied deep in his pockets

He stacked shelves and checked inventory in his unclersquos store Now

and then he dealt with the salesmen who turned up with sample casesHe stood in the alley amid the garbage cans and cats asking about

suppliers and costs Tere was money to be made but not here He in-

terrogated customers He was looking or different work and would try

anything i only or experience His early lie was a series o adven-

tures with odd job leading to odd job Much o the color that would

later entertain magazine writersmdashSamrsquos lie had the dimensions o a

airy talemdashwere accumulated in his 1047297rst ew years in Selma

He worked as a tin merchant Well thatrsquos how it would be describedin the press ldquoYoung Sam Z bartered iron or livestock chickens and

pigsrdquo According to newspaper and magazine accounts he was in act

822019 The Fish That Ate the Whale The Life and Times of Americas Banana King

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullthe-fish-that-ate-the-whale-the-life-and-times-of-americas-banana-king 713

Selma bull 15

employed by a struggling old-timer who was less tin merchant than

peddler the last o a vanishing breed the country cheapjack in a tat-

tered coat sharing a piece o chocolate with the boy Now and then he

might offer some wisdom Banks fail women leave but land lasts forever He combed trash piles on the edge o Selma searching or dis-

carded scraps o sheet metal the cast-off junk o the industrial age

which he piled on his cart and pushed rom arm to arm looking or

tradesmdashwire or a chicken coop in return or one o the razorbacks in

the pen Afer the particulars were agreed on Sam was told to get mov-

ing Catch and tie that animal boy It was Zemurrayrsquos 1047297rst real job

racing through the slop with a rope in his hand ldquoIn those daysrdquo he

told a reporter rom Life ldquoI could outrun any pig in Dixierdquo Paid a dol-lar a week he kept the job just long enough to know he would rather be

the man who owned the hog than the man who collected the junk and

would rather be the man who discarded the sheet metal than the man

who owned the hog

A series o jobs ollowed tried on and thrown off like thrif-store

suits He was a housecleaner and a delivery boy He turned a lathe or a

carpenter By eighteen he had saved enough to send or his brothers

and sisters hal a dozen pale young Jews who turned up in Alabama in

the last years o the nineteenth century

But his real lie began only when he saw that 1047297rst banana He de-

vised a plan soon afer he would travel to Mobile where the ruit boats

arrived rom Central America purchase a supply o his own carry

them back to Selma and go into business

822019 The Fish That Ate the Whale The Life and Times of Americas Banana King

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullthe-fish-that-ate-the-whale-the-life-and-times-of-americas-banana-king 813

Zemurray took his money and went south Wisteria bloomed along the

railroad tracks owns drifed by He could smell the ocean beore he

could see it He was like a kid on the rontier who a day afer the har-

vest olds his savings into a roll and goes to try his luck in town

Mobile was a seedy industrial port 1047297lled with all the amiliar types

the sharpie the 1047297nancier the scoundrel the chucklehead the sport

Sam was a bit o everything He could be shrewd but he could also be

naiumlve He was greedy or inormation He took a room in a seamenrsquos

hotel near the port Te waterront was crossed by train tracksmdashdozens

o lines converged here Boxcars crammed with coal ruit cotton and

cane stood on the sidings Te railroad conductors were the aristocrats

o the scene Tey drank coffee in the station house smug in their check-

ered caps Te docks were crowded with stevedores most o them

immigrants rom Sicily Te train sheds were crowded with peddlers

most o them Jewish immigrants rom Poland and Russia Tey boughtmerchandise off the decks o ships and sold it rom carts in the streets

o Mobile

One evening Sam stood on the whar watching a Boston Fruit

banana boat sail into the harbor Te Boston Fruit Company which

would become United Fruit dominated the trade with a 1047298eet that car-

ried bananas rom Jamaica to Boston Charleston New Orleans and

Mobile Zemurray would have seen one o the smaller ships that made

the trip to the Gul ports a cutter with sails and engine Te unnelsent up black smoke Te pier strained under the weight o unloaders

who appeared as i out o nowhere whenever a ship landed As soon as

2

Ripes

822019 The Fish That Ate the Whale The Life and Times of Americas Banana King

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullthe-fish-that-ate-the-whale-the-life-and-times-of-americas-banana-king 913

18 bull The Fish That Ate the Whale

the boat was anchored these men swarmed across the deck ants on a

sugar pile working in organized teams

In the South in the days beore mechanical equipment bananas

were unloaded by hand the workers carrying the cargo a stem at atimemdashrom the hold where the shipment was packed in ice onto the

deck o the ship A banana stem is the ruit o an entire treemdasha hun-

dred pounds or more Each stem holds perhaps a hundred bunches

each bunch holds perhaps nine hands each hand holds perhaps 1047297feen

1047297ngersmdasha 1047297nger being a single banana It was backbreaking work and

dangerous not just or the shoulders and arms but also or the central

ner vous system As any banana cowboy would tell you banana plants

are prized nesting places or scorpions When the stems are cut downthe killers go along or the ride rom the banana plantation to the

jungle railroad to the whar to the ship across the Gul to Mobile or

New Orleans or Boston where they spring out stinging the 1047297rst steve-

dore they happen upon

Most workers on the banana docks were West Indians who arrived

in the southern ports on the ships that carried the cargo Early last

century newspaper reporters looking or local color ofen wrote about

these hired hands painting them in barbarous shades o minstrel

blue Tey described dark skin big lips grinning aces heavy haunches

their shirts as white as their eyes lifing and hauling working as one

man Tey pictured them in sunlight and gaslight moving like shad-

ows along the docks docile content occasionally breaking into hymns

and psalms and strange tribal music that chilled their white overseers

ldquoMost o them are Jamaican negroesrdquo Frederick Upham Adams wrote

in Conquest of the ropics ldquoblack as the ace o spades and care-ree asthe birds who sing in the adjacent park Fat negro lsquomammiesrsquo trudge in

with handcarts loaded with ood and sweetmeat delicacies dear to the

negro taste Powerul clusters o electric lights 1047298ash out in the vast

covered shed which protects the docks and the myriad lights o the

ship add their glow to the general effectrdquo

Sam would have watched closely as the workers ormed lines that

snaked rom the deck o the ship down a ramp and across the pier to

the waiting boxcars (He wanted to learn every detail o the trade)Each stem was passed rom man to man until it reached the open door

822019 The Fish That Ate the Whale The Life and Times of Americas Banana King

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullthe-fish-that-ate-the-whale-the-life-and-times-of-americas-banana-king 1013

Ripes bull 19

o the train where an agent rom the company examined it or bruises

reckles color I the stem passed muster it was loaded into the car

which was air cooled and straw 1047297lled When the car was ull the door

was swung shut and locked An empty car was rolled into its placeTis continued or hoursmdasha shif might run rom three pm until

midnight When a train was packed the switchman signaled and the

cargo was carried across the South

Te bananas that did not pass muster were dumped on the side o

the yard where they were urther divided Some were designated as

turnings meaning they were on their way to being worthless At the

end o the day they were sold at a discount to store owners and ped-

dlers You could see them with their carts piled high trundling throughthe streets calling ldquoBananas bananas or sale A nickel a bunch Yes

we have bananas we have bananas or salerdquo

Te bananas that did not make the cut as greens or turnings were

designated ldquoripesrdquo and heaped in a sad pile A ripe is a banana you have

lef in the sun that has become as reckled as a Hardy boy Tese ba-

nanas though still good to eat delicious even would never make it to

the market in time In less than a week they would begin to sofen and

stink As ar as the merchants were concerned they were trash When

de1047297ning a ripe Boston Fruit used the ollowing standard one reckle

turning two reckles ripe

Sam noticed everythingmdashthe care with which the bananas were

handled the way each boxcar was 1047297lled and rolled to a siding how

men rom the banana company college men moved through the

crowd barking ordersmdashbut paid special attention to the growing pile

o ripes Anything can cause a banana to ripen early I you squeeze agreen banana it will turn in days instead o weeks ditto i itrsquos nicked

dented or banged A ripe banana will cause those around it to ripen

and those will cause still others to ripen until an entire boxcar is ru-

ined Beore rerigeration was perected as much as 15 percent o an

average cargo ended up in the ripe pile

Sam grew 1047297xated on ripes recognizing a product where others had

seen only trash It was the worldview o the immigrant understanding

how so-called garbage might be valued under a different name seeingnutrition where others saw only waste He was the son o a Russian

822019 The Fish That Ate the Whale The Life and Times of Americas Banana King

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullthe-fish-that-ate-the-whale-the-life-and-times-of-americas-banana-king 1113

20 bull The Fish That Ate the Whale

armer or whom ood had once been scarce enough to make even a

reckled banana seem precious

Afer the ship had been unloaded afer the trains had carried off

the green bananas afer the merchants and peddlers had taken awaythe turnings Sam walked down to the pier to talk to the company

agent Tey spoke as the sun went down the man with the Ivy League

elocution and the kid with the Russian accent who rolled his r rsquos and

spit his vowels Zemurray had $150 Tat was his stake He 1047297gured it

would go urther i it was spent on ripes He was no ool He knew what

this meantmdashthat he would have to move ast that he was entering a

race with the clock Tree days 1047297ve at the most Afer that he would be

lef with a pile o glue But he believed he could make it As ar as hewas concerned ripes were considered trash only because Boston Fruit

and similar 1047297rms were too slow-ooted to cover ground It was a calcu-

lation based on arrogance I can be ast where others have been slow

I can hustle where others have been satis1047297ed with the easy pickings o

the trade

Zemurrayrsquos 1047297rst cargo consisted o a ew thousand bananas He did

not spend all his money but retained a small balance which he used

to rent part o a boxcar on the Illinois Central Te trip to Selma was

scheduled to take three days meaning he would have just enough time

to get the ruit to market beore the sun did its worst In most cases a

ruit hauler would spend a ew dollars extra or a bed in the caboose

but since the reight charge used the last o his money Zemurray trav-

eled in the boxcar with his bananas the door open the country drifing

by It seems appropriate Zemurray sleeping beside his 1047297rst haul attend-

ing to his product like a baby in a nurseryTe train lef on a uesday morning say the sun 1047297ery above the

smoky reight-yard dawn the clank o wheels over switches the ocean

drifing away Color and country blue in the morning green at mid-

day red in the evening Zemurray sat in the boxcar doorway Te train

traveled maddeningly inuriatingly exceedingly slow In the country

it went the speed o a trotting mule In the towns it was no aster than

a man walking In the cities it stopped altogether sometimes or hours

waiting or cargo and crew Zemurray paced the railroad bed handson his hips muttering

Stoplights emporary holds What was supposed to be three days

822019 The Fish That Ate the Whale The Life and Times of Americas Banana King

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullthe-fish-that-ate-the-whale-the-life-and-times-of-americas-banana-king 1213

Ripes bull 21

was turning into 1047297ve six With each hour the bananas became more

pungent He spoke to the conductor who commiserated saying ldquoWhat

a terrible shamerdquo

In a Mississippi train yard where the redbrick buildings eed storesand tinsmiths crowded close to the tracks a brakeman hearing Samrsquos

story said ldquoYoursquove got good product there I you could just get word

ahead to the towns along the line Irsquom sure the grocery owners would

meet you at the platorms and buy the bananas right off the boxcarsrdquo

During the next delay Zemurray went into a Western Union offi ce

and spoke to a telegraph operator Having no money Sam offered a

deal i the man radioed every operator ahead asking each o them

to spread the word to local merchantsmdashdirt-cheap bananas comingthrough for merchants and peddlersmdashSam would share a percentage o

his sales When the Illinois Central arrived in the next town the cus-

tomers were waiting Zemurray talked terms through the boxcar door

a tower o ripes at his back en for eight Tirteen for ten He broke off

a bunch put the money in his pocket Te whistle blew the train rolled

on He sold the last banana in Selma then went home in the dark

When he tallied his money it came to $190 His 1047297rst real success afer

accounting or expenses Sam had earned $40 in six days

Zemurray had stumbled on a niche ripes overlooked at the bottom

o the trade It was logistics Could he move the product aster than the

product was ruined by time Tis work was nothing but stress the

margins ridiculously small (like countereiting dollar bills) but it was

a way in Whereas the big ruit companies monopolized the upper pre-

cincts o the industrymdashyou needed capital railroads and ships to op-

erate in greensmdashthe world o ripes was wide open Within a ew weekso his return to Selma Zemurray set out again then again then again

It was in these months on train platorms and in small towns that

Zemurray 1047297rst came to be known as Sam the Banana Man

822019 The Fish That Ate the Whale The Life and Times of Americas Banana King

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullthe-fish-that-ate-the-whale-the-life-and-times-of-americas-banana-king 1313

amp (() (+

-01

2134 5 0673

8193019

lt= gt(= ( amp (()

--7710-

amp C8=B KE

822019 The Fish That Ate the Whale The Life and Times of Americas Banana King

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullthe-fish-that-ate-the-whale-the-life-and-times-of-americas-banana-king 613

14 bull The Fish That Ate the Whale

than one store per town partly because who needs the competition

partly because they worried about attracting the wrong kind o atten-

tion Tey stocked everything What they did not stock they could

order Te most successul grew into great department stores S A Shorein Winchester Alabama ounded by Russian-born Solomon Shore

ather o Dinah E Lewis amp Son Dry Goods in Hendersonville North

Carolina ounded by Polish-born Edward Lewis Capitol Department

Store in Fayetteville North Carolina ounded by the Russian Stein

brothers Others having started by extending credit to customers

evolved into Americarsquos 1047297rst investment banks Lehman Brothers

ounded by Henry Lehman a Jewish immigrant rom Bavaria began

as a dry goods store in Montgomery Alabama in 1844 Lazard Fregraveresounded by three Jewish brothers rom France began as a wholesale

business in New Orleans in 1848 Te store owned by Zemurrayrsquos uncle

was probably o this variety having begun as a young man carrying

merchandise it grew into a neat grocery on Broad Street

Selma closed early By ten pm the bustling o the marketplace had

given way to the swamp stink and cicadas but there was always action

or those who knew where to look in the private clubs where mer-

chants played aro and stud in the juke joints that stayed open rom

can till canrsquot According to those who knew him Sam did not care or

crowds and parties He had a restless mind and a persistent need to get

outdoors He liked to be alone You might see him wandering beneath

the lamps o town a tough lean young man in an overcoat hands bur-

ied deep in his pockets

He stacked shelves and checked inventory in his unclersquos store Now

and then he dealt with the salesmen who turned up with sample casesHe stood in the alley amid the garbage cans and cats asking about

suppliers and costs Tere was money to be made but not here He in-

terrogated customers He was looking or different work and would try

anything i only or experience His early lie was a series o adven-

tures with odd job leading to odd job Much o the color that would

later entertain magazine writersmdashSamrsquos lie had the dimensions o a

airy talemdashwere accumulated in his 1047297rst ew years in Selma

He worked as a tin merchant Well thatrsquos how it would be describedin the press ldquoYoung Sam Z bartered iron or livestock chickens and

pigsrdquo According to newspaper and magazine accounts he was in act

822019 The Fish That Ate the Whale The Life and Times of Americas Banana King

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullthe-fish-that-ate-the-whale-the-life-and-times-of-americas-banana-king 713

Selma bull 15

employed by a struggling old-timer who was less tin merchant than

peddler the last o a vanishing breed the country cheapjack in a tat-

tered coat sharing a piece o chocolate with the boy Now and then he

might offer some wisdom Banks fail women leave but land lasts forever He combed trash piles on the edge o Selma searching or dis-

carded scraps o sheet metal the cast-off junk o the industrial age

which he piled on his cart and pushed rom arm to arm looking or

tradesmdashwire or a chicken coop in return or one o the razorbacks in

the pen Afer the particulars were agreed on Sam was told to get mov-

ing Catch and tie that animal boy It was Zemurrayrsquos 1047297rst real job

racing through the slop with a rope in his hand ldquoIn those daysrdquo he

told a reporter rom Life ldquoI could outrun any pig in Dixierdquo Paid a dol-lar a week he kept the job just long enough to know he would rather be

the man who owned the hog than the man who collected the junk and

would rather be the man who discarded the sheet metal than the man

who owned the hog

A series o jobs ollowed tried on and thrown off like thrif-store

suits He was a housecleaner and a delivery boy He turned a lathe or a

carpenter By eighteen he had saved enough to send or his brothers

and sisters hal a dozen pale young Jews who turned up in Alabama in

the last years o the nineteenth century

But his real lie began only when he saw that 1047297rst banana He de-

vised a plan soon afer he would travel to Mobile where the ruit boats

arrived rom Central America purchase a supply o his own carry

them back to Selma and go into business

822019 The Fish That Ate the Whale The Life and Times of Americas Banana King

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullthe-fish-that-ate-the-whale-the-life-and-times-of-americas-banana-king 813

Zemurray took his money and went south Wisteria bloomed along the

railroad tracks owns drifed by He could smell the ocean beore he

could see it He was like a kid on the rontier who a day afer the har-

vest olds his savings into a roll and goes to try his luck in town

Mobile was a seedy industrial port 1047297lled with all the amiliar types

the sharpie the 1047297nancier the scoundrel the chucklehead the sport

Sam was a bit o everything He could be shrewd but he could also be

naiumlve He was greedy or inormation He took a room in a seamenrsquos

hotel near the port Te waterront was crossed by train tracksmdashdozens

o lines converged here Boxcars crammed with coal ruit cotton and

cane stood on the sidings Te railroad conductors were the aristocrats

o the scene Tey drank coffee in the station house smug in their check-

ered caps Te docks were crowded with stevedores most o them

immigrants rom Sicily Te train sheds were crowded with peddlers

most o them Jewish immigrants rom Poland and Russia Tey boughtmerchandise off the decks o ships and sold it rom carts in the streets

o Mobile

One evening Sam stood on the whar watching a Boston Fruit

banana boat sail into the harbor Te Boston Fruit Company which

would become United Fruit dominated the trade with a 1047298eet that car-

ried bananas rom Jamaica to Boston Charleston New Orleans and

Mobile Zemurray would have seen one o the smaller ships that made

the trip to the Gul ports a cutter with sails and engine Te unnelsent up black smoke Te pier strained under the weight o unloaders

who appeared as i out o nowhere whenever a ship landed As soon as

2

Ripes

822019 The Fish That Ate the Whale The Life and Times of Americas Banana King

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullthe-fish-that-ate-the-whale-the-life-and-times-of-americas-banana-king 913

18 bull The Fish That Ate the Whale

the boat was anchored these men swarmed across the deck ants on a

sugar pile working in organized teams

In the South in the days beore mechanical equipment bananas

were unloaded by hand the workers carrying the cargo a stem at atimemdashrom the hold where the shipment was packed in ice onto the

deck o the ship A banana stem is the ruit o an entire treemdasha hun-

dred pounds or more Each stem holds perhaps a hundred bunches

each bunch holds perhaps nine hands each hand holds perhaps 1047297feen

1047297ngersmdasha 1047297nger being a single banana It was backbreaking work and

dangerous not just or the shoulders and arms but also or the central

ner vous system As any banana cowboy would tell you banana plants

are prized nesting places or scorpions When the stems are cut downthe killers go along or the ride rom the banana plantation to the

jungle railroad to the whar to the ship across the Gul to Mobile or

New Orleans or Boston where they spring out stinging the 1047297rst steve-

dore they happen upon

Most workers on the banana docks were West Indians who arrived

in the southern ports on the ships that carried the cargo Early last

century newspaper reporters looking or local color ofen wrote about

these hired hands painting them in barbarous shades o minstrel

blue Tey described dark skin big lips grinning aces heavy haunches

their shirts as white as their eyes lifing and hauling working as one

man Tey pictured them in sunlight and gaslight moving like shad-

ows along the docks docile content occasionally breaking into hymns

and psalms and strange tribal music that chilled their white overseers

ldquoMost o them are Jamaican negroesrdquo Frederick Upham Adams wrote

in Conquest of the ropics ldquoblack as the ace o spades and care-ree asthe birds who sing in the adjacent park Fat negro lsquomammiesrsquo trudge in

with handcarts loaded with ood and sweetmeat delicacies dear to the

negro taste Powerul clusters o electric lights 1047298ash out in the vast

covered shed which protects the docks and the myriad lights o the

ship add their glow to the general effectrdquo

Sam would have watched closely as the workers ormed lines that

snaked rom the deck o the ship down a ramp and across the pier to

the waiting boxcars (He wanted to learn every detail o the trade)Each stem was passed rom man to man until it reached the open door

822019 The Fish That Ate the Whale The Life and Times of Americas Banana King

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullthe-fish-that-ate-the-whale-the-life-and-times-of-americas-banana-king 1013

Ripes bull 19

o the train where an agent rom the company examined it or bruises

reckles color I the stem passed muster it was loaded into the car

which was air cooled and straw 1047297lled When the car was ull the door

was swung shut and locked An empty car was rolled into its placeTis continued or hoursmdasha shif might run rom three pm until

midnight When a train was packed the switchman signaled and the

cargo was carried across the South

Te bananas that did not pass muster were dumped on the side o

the yard where they were urther divided Some were designated as

turnings meaning they were on their way to being worthless At the

end o the day they were sold at a discount to store owners and ped-

dlers You could see them with their carts piled high trundling throughthe streets calling ldquoBananas bananas or sale A nickel a bunch Yes

we have bananas we have bananas or salerdquo

Te bananas that did not make the cut as greens or turnings were

designated ldquoripesrdquo and heaped in a sad pile A ripe is a banana you have

lef in the sun that has become as reckled as a Hardy boy Tese ba-

nanas though still good to eat delicious even would never make it to

the market in time In less than a week they would begin to sofen and

stink As ar as the merchants were concerned they were trash When

de1047297ning a ripe Boston Fruit used the ollowing standard one reckle

turning two reckles ripe

Sam noticed everythingmdashthe care with which the bananas were

handled the way each boxcar was 1047297lled and rolled to a siding how

men rom the banana company college men moved through the

crowd barking ordersmdashbut paid special attention to the growing pile

o ripes Anything can cause a banana to ripen early I you squeeze agreen banana it will turn in days instead o weeks ditto i itrsquos nicked

dented or banged A ripe banana will cause those around it to ripen

and those will cause still others to ripen until an entire boxcar is ru-

ined Beore rerigeration was perected as much as 15 percent o an

average cargo ended up in the ripe pile

Sam grew 1047297xated on ripes recognizing a product where others had

seen only trash It was the worldview o the immigrant understanding

how so-called garbage might be valued under a different name seeingnutrition where others saw only waste He was the son o a Russian

822019 The Fish That Ate the Whale The Life and Times of Americas Banana King

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullthe-fish-that-ate-the-whale-the-life-and-times-of-americas-banana-king 1113

20 bull The Fish That Ate the Whale

armer or whom ood had once been scarce enough to make even a

reckled banana seem precious

Afer the ship had been unloaded afer the trains had carried off

the green bananas afer the merchants and peddlers had taken awaythe turnings Sam walked down to the pier to talk to the company

agent Tey spoke as the sun went down the man with the Ivy League

elocution and the kid with the Russian accent who rolled his r rsquos and

spit his vowels Zemurray had $150 Tat was his stake He 1047297gured it

would go urther i it was spent on ripes He was no ool He knew what

this meantmdashthat he would have to move ast that he was entering a

race with the clock Tree days 1047297ve at the most Afer that he would be

lef with a pile o glue But he believed he could make it As ar as hewas concerned ripes were considered trash only because Boston Fruit

and similar 1047297rms were too slow-ooted to cover ground It was a calcu-

lation based on arrogance I can be ast where others have been slow

I can hustle where others have been satis1047297ed with the easy pickings o

the trade

Zemurrayrsquos 1047297rst cargo consisted o a ew thousand bananas He did

not spend all his money but retained a small balance which he used

to rent part o a boxcar on the Illinois Central Te trip to Selma was

scheduled to take three days meaning he would have just enough time

to get the ruit to market beore the sun did its worst In most cases a

ruit hauler would spend a ew dollars extra or a bed in the caboose

but since the reight charge used the last o his money Zemurray trav-

eled in the boxcar with his bananas the door open the country drifing

by It seems appropriate Zemurray sleeping beside his 1047297rst haul attend-

ing to his product like a baby in a nurseryTe train lef on a uesday morning say the sun 1047297ery above the

smoky reight-yard dawn the clank o wheels over switches the ocean

drifing away Color and country blue in the morning green at mid-

day red in the evening Zemurray sat in the boxcar doorway Te train

traveled maddeningly inuriatingly exceedingly slow In the country

it went the speed o a trotting mule In the towns it was no aster than

a man walking In the cities it stopped altogether sometimes or hours

waiting or cargo and crew Zemurray paced the railroad bed handson his hips muttering

Stoplights emporary holds What was supposed to be three days

822019 The Fish That Ate the Whale The Life and Times of Americas Banana King

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullthe-fish-that-ate-the-whale-the-life-and-times-of-americas-banana-king 1213

Ripes bull 21

was turning into 1047297ve six With each hour the bananas became more

pungent He spoke to the conductor who commiserated saying ldquoWhat

a terrible shamerdquo

In a Mississippi train yard where the redbrick buildings eed storesand tinsmiths crowded close to the tracks a brakeman hearing Samrsquos

story said ldquoYoursquove got good product there I you could just get word

ahead to the towns along the line Irsquom sure the grocery owners would

meet you at the platorms and buy the bananas right off the boxcarsrdquo

During the next delay Zemurray went into a Western Union offi ce

and spoke to a telegraph operator Having no money Sam offered a

deal i the man radioed every operator ahead asking each o them

to spread the word to local merchantsmdashdirt-cheap bananas comingthrough for merchants and peddlersmdashSam would share a percentage o

his sales When the Illinois Central arrived in the next town the cus-

tomers were waiting Zemurray talked terms through the boxcar door

a tower o ripes at his back en for eight Tirteen for ten He broke off

a bunch put the money in his pocket Te whistle blew the train rolled

on He sold the last banana in Selma then went home in the dark

When he tallied his money it came to $190 His 1047297rst real success afer

accounting or expenses Sam had earned $40 in six days

Zemurray had stumbled on a niche ripes overlooked at the bottom

o the trade It was logistics Could he move the product aster than the

product was ruined by time Tis work was nothing but stress the

margins ridiculously small (like countereiting dollar bills) but it was

a way in Whereas the big ruit companies monopolized the upper pre-

cincts o the industrymdashyou needed capital railroads and ships to op-

erate in greensmdashthe world o ripes was wide open Within a ew weekso his return to Selma Zemurray set out again then again then again

It was in these months on train platorms and in small towns that

Zemurray 1047297rst came to be known as Sam the Banana Man

822019 The Fish That Ate the Whale The Life and Times of Americas Banana King

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullthe-fish-that-ate-the-whale-the-life-and-times-of-americas-banana-king 1313

amp (() (+

-01

2134 5 0673

8193019

lt= gt(= ( amp (()

--7710-

amp C8=B KE

822019 The Fish That Ate the Whale The Life and Times of Americas Banana King

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullthe-fish-that-ate-the-whale-the-life-and-times-of-americas-banana-king 713

Selma bull 15

employed by a struggling old-timer who was less tin merchant than

peddler the last o a vanishing breed the country cheapjack in a tat-

tered coat sharing a piece o chocolate with the boy Now and then he

might offer some wisdom Banks fail women leave but land lasts forever He combed trash piles on the edge o Selma searching or dis-

carded scraps o sheet metal the cast-off junk o the industrial age

which he piled on his cart and pushed rom arm to arm looking or

tradesmdashwire or a chicken coop in return or one o the razorbacks in

the pen Afer the particulars were agreed on Sam was told to get mov-

ing Catch and tie that animal boy It was Zemurrayrsquos 1047297rst real job

racing through the slop with a rope in his hand ldquoIn those daysrdquo he

told a reporter rom Life ldquoI could outrun any pig in Dixierdquo Paid a dol-lar a week he kept the job just long enough to know he would rather be

the man who owned the hog than the man who collected the junk and

would rather be the man who discarded the sheet metal than the man

who owned the hog

A series o jobs ollowed tried on and thrown off like thrif-store

suits He was a housecleaner and a delivery boy He turned a lathe or a

carpenter By eighteen he had saved enough to send or his brothers

and sisters hal a dozen pale young Jews who turned up in Alabama in

the last years o the nineteenth century

But his real lie began only when he saw that 1047297rst banana He de-

vised a plan soon afer he would travel to Mobile where the ruit boats

arrived rom Central America purchase a supply o his own carry

them back to Selma and go into business

822019 The Fish That Ate the Whale The Life and Times of Americas Banana King

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullthe-fish-that-ate-the-whale-the-life-and-times-of-americas-banana-king 813

Zemurray took his money and went south Wisteria bloomed along the

railroad tracks owns drifed by He could smell the ocean beore he

could see it He was like a kid on the rontier who a day afer the har-

vest olds his savings into a roll and goes to try his luck in town

Mobile was a seedy industrial port 1047297lled with all the amiliar types

the sharpie the 1047297nancier the scoundrel the chucklehead the sport

Sam was a bit o everything He could be shrewd but he could also be

naiumlve He was greedy or inormation He took a room in a seamenrsquos

hotel near the port Te waterront was crossed by train tracksmdashdozens

o lines converged here Boxcars crammed with coal ruit cotton and

cane stood on the sidings Te railroad conductors were the aristocrats

o the scene Tey drank coffee in the station house smug in their check-

ered caps Te docks were crowded with stevedores most o them

immigrants rom Sicily Te train sheds were crowded with peddlers

most o them Jewish immigrants rom Poland and Russia Tey boughtmerchandise off the decks o ships and sold it rom carts in the streets

o Mobile

One evening Sam stood on the whar watching a Boston Fruit

banana boat sail into the harbor Te Boston Fruit Company which

would become United Fruit dominated the trade with a 1047298eet that car-

ried bananas rom Jamaica to Boston Charleston New Orleans and

Mobile Zemurray would have seen one o the smaller ships that made

the trip to the Gul ports a cutter with sails and engine Te unnelsent up black smoke Te pier strained under the weight o unloaders

who appeared as i out o nowhere whenever a ship landed As soon as

2

Ripes

822019 The Fish That Ate the Whale The Life and Times of Americas Banana King

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullthe-fish-that-ate-the-whale-the-life-and-times-of-americas-banana-king 913

18 bull The Fish That Ate the Whale

the boat was anchored these men swarmed across the deck ants on a

sugar pile working in organized teams

In the South in the days beore mechanical equipment bananas

were unloaded by hand the workers carrying the cargo a stem at atimemdashrom the hold where the shipment was packed in ice onto the

deck o the ship A banana stem is the ruit o an entire treemdasha hun-

dred pounds or more Each stem holds perhaps a hundred bunches

each bunch holds perhaps nine hands each hand holds perhaps 1047297feen

1047297ngersmdasha 1047297nger being a single banana It was backbreaking work and

dangerous not just or the shoulders and arms but also or the central

ner vous system As any banana cowboy would tell you banana plants

are prized nesting places or scorpions When the stems are cut downthe killers go along or the ride rom the banana plantation to the

jungle railroad to the whar to the ship across the Gul to Mobile or

New Orleans or Boston where they spring out stinging the 1047297rst steve-

dore they happen upon

Most workers on the banana docks were West Indians who arrived

in the southern ports on the ships that carried the cargo Early last

century newspaper reporters looking or local color ofen wrote about

these hired hands painting them in barbarous shades o minstrel

blue Tey described dark skin big lips grinning aces heavy haunches

their shirts as white as their eyes lifing and hauling working as one

man Tey pictured them in sunlight and gaslight moving like shad-

ows along the docks docile content occasionally breaking into hymns

and psalms and strange tribal music that chilled their white overseers

ldquoMost o them are Jamaican negroesrdquo Frederick Upham Adams wrote

in Conquest of the ropics ldquoblack as the ace o spades and care-ree asthe birds who sing in the adjacent park Fat negro lsquomammiesrsquo trudge in

with handcarts loaded with ood and sweetmeat delicacies dear to the

negro taste Powerul clusters o electric lights 1047298ash out in the vast

covered shed which protects the docks and the myriad lights o the

ship add their glow to the general effectrdquo

Sam would have watched closely as the workers ormed lines that

snaked rom the deck o the ship down a ramp and across the pier to

the waiting boxcars (He wanted to learn every detail o the trade)Each stem was passed rom man to man until it reached the open door

822019 The Fish That Ate the Whale The Life and Times of Americas Banana King

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullthe-fish-that-ate-the-whale-the-life-and-times-of-americas-banana-king 1013

Ripes bull 19

o the train where an agent rom the company examined it or bruises

reckles color I the stem passed muster it was loaded into the car

which was air cooled and straw 1047297lled When the car was ull the door

was swung shut and locked An empty car was rolled into its placeTis continued or hoursmdasha shif might run rom three pm until

midnight When a train was packed the switchman signaled and the

cargo was carried across the South

Te bananas that did not pass muster were dumped on the side o

the yard where they were urther divided Some were designated as

turnings meaning they were on their way to being worthless At the

end o the day they were sold at a discount to store owners and ped-

dlers You could see them with their carts piled high trundling throughthe streets calling ldquoBananas bananas or sale A nickel a bunch Yes

we have bananas we have bananas or salerdquo

Te bananas that did not make the cut as greens or turnings were

designated ldquoripesrdquo and heaped in a sad pile A ripe is a banana you have

lef in the sun that has become as reckled as a Hardy boy Tese ba-

nanas though still good to eat delicious even would never make it to

the market in time In less than a week they would begin to sofen and

stink As ar as the merchants were concerned they were trash When

de1047297ning a ripe Boston Fruit used the ollowing standard one reckle

turning two reckles ripe

Sam noticed everythingmdashthe care with which the bananas were

handled the way each boxcar was 1047297lled and rolled to a siding how

men rom the banana company college men moved through the

crowd barking ordersmdashbut paid special attention to the growing pile

o ripes Anything can cause a banana to ripen early I you squeeze agreen banana it will turn in days instead o weeks ditto i itrsquos nicked

dented or banged A ripe banana will cause those around it to ripen

and those will cause still others to ripen until an entire boxcar is ru-

ined Beore rerigeration was perected as much as 15 percent o an

average cargo ended up in the ripe pile

Sam grew 1047297xated on ripes recognizing a product where others had

seen only trash It was the worldview o the immigrant understanding

how so-called garbage might be valued under a different name seeingnutrition where others saw only waste He was the son o a Russian

822019 The Fish That Ate the Whale The Life and Times of Americas Banana King

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullthe-fish-that-ate-the-whale-the-life-and-times-of-americas-banana-king 1113

20 bull The Fish That Ate the Whale

armer or whom ood had once been scarce enough to make even a

reckled banana seem precious

Afer the ship had been unloaded afer the trains had carried off

the green bananas afer the merchants and peddlers had taken awaythe turnings Sam walked down to the pier to talk to the company

agent Tey spoke as the sun went down the man with the Ivy League

elocution and the kid with the Russian accent who rolled his r rsquos and

spit his vowels Zemurray had $150 Tat was his stake He 1047297gured it

would go urther i it was spent on ripes He was no ool He knew what

this meantmdashthat he would have to move ast that he was entering a

race with the clock Tree days 1047297ve at the most Afer that he would be

lef with a pile o glue But he believed he could make it As ar as hewas concerned ripes were considered trash only because Boston Fruit

and similar 1047297rms were too slow-ooted to cover ground It was a calcu-

lation based on arrogance I can be ast where others have been slow

I can hustle where others have been satis1047297ed with the easy pickings o

the trade

Zemurrayrsquos 1047297rst cargo consisted o a ew thousand bananas He did

not spend all his money but retained a small balance which he used

to rent part o a boxcar on the Illinois Central Te trip to Selma was

scheduled to take three days meaning he would have just enough time

to get the ruit to market beore the sun did its worst In most cases a

ruit hauler would spend a ew dollars extra or a bed in the caboose

but since the reight charge used the last o his money Zemurray trav-

eled in the boxcar with his bananas the door open the country drifing

by It seems appropriate Zemurray sleeping beside his 1047297rst haul attend-

ing to his product like a baby in a nurseryTe train lef on a uesday morning say the sun 1047297ery above the

smoky reight-yard dawn the clank o wheels over switches the ocean

drifing away Color and country blue in the morning green at mid-

day red in the evening Zemurray sat in the boxcar doorway Te train

traveled maddeningly inuriatingly exceedingly slow In the country

it went the speed o a trotting mule In the towns it was no aster than

a man walking In the cities it stopped altogether sometimes or hours

waiting or cargo and crew Zemurray paced the railroad bed handson his hips muttering

Stoplights emporary holds What was supposed to be three days

822019 The Fish That Ate the Whale The Life and Times of Americas Banana King

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullthe-fish-that-ate-the-whale-the-life-and-times-of-americas-banana-king 1213

Ripes bull 21

was turning into 1047297ve six With each hour the bananas became more

pungent He spoke to the conductor who commiserated saying ldquoWhat

a terrible shamerdquo

In a Mississippi train yard where the redbrick buildings eed storesand tinsmiths crowded close to the tracks a brakeman hearing Samrsquos

story said ldquoYoursquove got good product there I you could just get word

ahead to the towns along the line Irsquom sure the grocery owners would

meet you at the platorms and buy the bananas right off the boxcarsrdquo

During the next delay Zemurray went into a Western Union offi ce

and spoke to a telegraph operator Having no money Sam offered a

deal i the man radioed every operator ahead asking each o them

to spread the word to local merchantsmdashdirt-cheap bananas comingthrough for merchants and peddlersmdashSam would share a percentage o

his sales When the Illinois Central arrived in the next town the cus-

tomers were waiting Zemurray talked terms through the boxcar door

a tower o ripes at his back en for eight Tirteen for ten He broke off

a bunch put the money in his pocket Te whistle blew the train rolled

on He sold the last banana in Selma then went home in the dark

When he tallied his money it came to $190 His 1047297rst real success afer

accounting or expenses Sam had earned $40 in six days

Zemurray had stumbled on a niche ripes overlooked at the bottom

o the trade It was logistics Could he move the product aster than the

product was ruined by time Tis work was nothing but stress the

margins ridiculously small (like countereiting dollar bills) but it was

a way in Whereas the big ruit companies monopolized the upper pre-

cincts o the industrymdashyou needed capital railroads and ships to op-

erate in greensmdashthe world o ripes was wide open Within a ew weekso his return to Selma Zemurray set out again then again then again

It was in these months on train platorms and in small towns that

Zemurray 1047297rst came to be known as Sam the Banana Man

822019 The Fish That Ate the Whale The Life and Times of Americas Banana King

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullthe-fish-that-ate-the-whale-the-life-and-times-of-americas-banana-king 1313

amp (() (+

-01

2134 5 0673

8193019

lt= gt(= ( amp (()

--7710-

amp C8=B KE

822019 The Fish That Ate the Whale The Life and Times of Americas Banana King

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullthe-fish-that-ate-the-whale-the-life-and-times-of-americas-banana-king 813

Zemurray took his money and went south Wisteria bloomed along the

railroad tracks owns drifed by He could smell the ocean beore he

could see it He was like a kid on the rontier who a day afer the har-

vest olds his savings into a roll and goes to try his luck in town

Mobile was a seedy industrial port 1047297lled with all the amiliar types

the sharpie the 1047297nancier the scoundrel the chucklehead the sport

Sam was a bit o everything He could be shrewd but he could also be

naiumlve He was greedy or inormation He took a room in a seamenrsquos

hotel near the port Te waterront was crossed by train tracksmdashdozens

o lines converged here Boxcars crammed with coal ruit cotton and

cane stood on the sidings Te railroad conductors were the aristocrats

o the scene Tey drank coffee in the station house smug in their check-

ered caps Te docks were crowded with stevedores most o them

immigrants rom Sicily Te train sheds were crowded with peddlers

most o them Jewish immigrants rom Poland and Russia Tey boughtmerchandise off the decks o ships and sold it rom carts in the streets

o Mobile

One evening Sam stood on the whar watching a Boston Fruit

banana boat sail into the harbor Te Boston Fruit Company which

would become United Fruit dominated the trade with a 1047298eet that car-

ried bananas rom Jamaica to Boston Charleston New Orleans and

Mobile Zemurray would have seen one o the smaller ships that made

the trip to the Gul ports a cutter with sails and engine Te unnelsent up black smoke Te pier strained under the weight o unloaders

who appeared as i out o nowhere whenever a ship landed As soon as

2

Ripes

822019 The Fish That Ate the Whale The Life and Times of Americas Banana King

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullthe-fish-that-ate-the-whale-the-life-and-times-of-americas-banana-king 913

18 bull The Fish That Ate the Whale

the boat was anchored these men swarmed across the deck ants on a

sugar pile working in organized teams

In the South in the days beore mechanical equipment bananas

were unloaded by hand the workers carrying the cargo a stem at atimemdashrom the hold where the shipment was packed in ice onto the

deck o the ship A banana stem is the ruit o an entire treemdasha hun-

dred pounds or more Each stem holds perhaps a hundred bunches

each bunch holds perhaps nine hands each hand holds perhaps 1047297feen

1047297ngersmdasha 1047297nger being a single banana It was backbreaking work and

dangerous not just or the shoulders and arms but also or the central

ner vous system As any banana cowboy would tell you banana plants

are prized nesting places or scorpions When the stems are cut downthe killers go along or the ride rom the banana plantation to the

jungle railroad to the whar to the ship across the Gul to Mobile or

New Orleans or Boston where they spring out stinging the 1047297rst steve-

dore they happen upon

Most workers on the banana docks were West Indians who arrived

in the southern ports on the ships that carried the cargo Early last

century newspaper reporters looking or local color ofen wrote about

these hired hands painting them in barbarous shades o minstrel

blue Tey described dark skin big lips grinning aces heavy haunches

their shirts as white as their eyes lifing and hauling working as one

man Tey pictured them in sunlight and gaslight moving like shad-

ows along the docks docile content occasionally breaking into hymns

and psalms and strange tribal music that chilled their white overseers

ldquoMost o them are Jamaican negroesrdquo Frederick Upham Adams wrote

in Conquest of the ropics ldquoblack as the ace o spades and care-ree asthe birds who sing in the adjacent park Fat negro lsquomammiesrsquo trudge in

with handcarts loaded with ood and sweetmeat delicacies dear to the

negro taste Powerul clusters o electric lights 1047298ash out in the vast

covered shed which protects the docks and the myriad lights o the

ship add their glow to the general effectrdquo

Sam would have watched closely as the workers ormed lines that

snaked rom the deck o the ship down a ramp and across the pier to

the waiting boxcars (He wanted to learn every detail o the trade)Each stem was passed rom man to man until it reached the open door

822019 The Fish That Ate the Whale The Life and Times of Americas Banana King

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullthe-fish-that-ate-the-whale-the-life-and-times-of-americas-banana-king 1013

Ripes bull 19

o the train where an agent rom the company examined it or bruises

reckles color I the stem passed muster it was loaded into the car

which was air cooled and straw 1047297lled When the car was ull the door

was swung shut and locked An empty car was rolled into its placeTis continued or hoursmdasha shif might run rom three pm until

midnight When a train was packed the switchman signaled and the

cargo was carried across the South

Te bananas that did not pass muster were dumped on the side o

the yard where they were urther divided Some were designated as

turnings meaning they were on their way to being worthless At the

end o the day they were sold at a discount to store owners and ped-

dlers You could see them with their carts piled high trundling throughthe streets calling ldquoBananas bananas or sale A nickel a bunch Yes

we have bananas we have bananas or salerdquo

Te bananas that did not make the cut as greens or turnings were

designated ldquoripesrdquo and heaped in a sad pile A ripe is a banana you have

lef in the sun that has become as reckled as a Hardy boy Tese ba-

nanas though still good to eat delicious even would never make it to

the market in time In less than a week they would begin to sofen and

stink As ar as the merchants were concerned they were trash When

de1047297ning a ripe Boston Fruit used the ollowing standard one reckle

turning two reckles ripe

Sam noticed everythingmdashthe care with which the bananas were

handled the way each boxcar was 1047297lled and rolled to a siding how

men rom the banana company college men moved through the

crowd barking ordersmdashbut paid special attention to the growing pile

o ripes Anything can cause a banana to ripen early I you squeeze agreen banana it will turn in days instead o weeks ditto i itrsquos nicked

dented or banged A ripe banana will cause those around it to ripen

and those will cause still others to ripen until an entire boxcar is ru-

ined Beore rerigeration was perected as much as 15 percent o an

average cargo ended up in the ripe pile

Sam grew 1047297xated on ripes recognizing a product where others had

seen only trash It was the worldview o the immigrant understanding

how so-called garbage might be valued under a different name seeingnutrition where others saw only waste He was the son o a Russian

822019 The Fish That Ate the Whale The Life and Times of Americas Banana King

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullthe-fish-that-ate-the-whale-the-life-and-times-of-americas-banana-king 1113

20 bull The Fish That Ate the Whale

armer or whom ood had once been scarce enough to make even a

reckled banana seem precious

Afer the ship had been unloaded afer the trains had carried off

the green bananas afer the merchants and peddlers had taken awaythe turnings Sam walked down to the pier to talk to the company

agent Tey spoke as the sun went down the man with the Ivy League

elocution and the kid with the Russian accent who rolled his r rsquos and

spit his vowels Zemurray had $150 Tat was his stake He 1047297gured it

would go urther i it was spent on ripes He was no ool He knew what

this meantmdashthat he would have to move ast that he was entering a

race with the clock Tree days 1047297ve at the most Afer that he would be

lef with a pile o glue But he believed he could make it As ar as hewas concerned ripes were considered trash only because Boston Fruit

and similar 1047297rms were too slow-ooted to cover ground It was a calcu-

lation based on arrogance I can be ast where others have been slow

I can hustle where others have been satis1047297ed with the easy pickings o

the trade

Zemurrayrsquos 1047297rst cargo consisted o a ew thousand bananas He did

not spend all his money but retained a small balance which he used

to rent part o a boxcar on the Illinois Central Te trip to Selma was

scheduled to take three days meaning he would have just enough time

to get the ruit to market beore the sun did its worst In most cases a

ruit hauler would spend a ew dollars extra or a bed in the caboose

but since the reight charge used the last o his money Zemurray trav-

eled in the boxcar with his bananas the door open the country drifing

by It seems appropriate Zemurray sleeping beside his 1047297rst haul attend-

ing to his product like a baby in a nurseryTe train lef on a uesday morning say the sun 1047297ery above the

smoky reight-yard dawn the clank o wheels over switches the ocean

drifing away Color and country blue in the morning green at mid-

day red in the evening Zemurray sat in the boxcar doorway Te train

traveled maddeningly inuriatingly exceedingly slow In the country

it went the speed o a trotting mule In the towns it was no aster than

a man walking In the cities it stopped altogether sometimes or hours

waiting or cargo and crew Zemurray paced the railroad bed handson his hips muttering

Stoplights emporary holds What was supposed to be three days

822019 The Fish That Ate the Whale The Life and Times of Americas Banana King

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullthe-fish-that-ate-the-whale-the-life-and-times-of-americas-banana-king 1213

Ripes bull 21

was turning into 1047297ve six With each hour the bananas became more

pungent He spoke to the conductor who commiserated saying ldquoWhat

a terrible shamerdquo

In a Mississippi train yard where the redbrick buildings eed storesand tinsmiths crowded close to the tracks a brakeman hearing Samrsquos

story said ldquoYoursquove got good product there I you could just get word

ahead to the towns along the line Irsquom sure the grocery owners would

meet you at the platorms and buy the bananas right off the boxcarsrdquo

During the next delay Zemurray went into a Western Union offi ce

and spoke to a telegraph operator Having no money Sam offered a

deal i the man radioed every operator ahead asking each o them

to spread the word to local merchantsmdashdirt-cheap bananas comingthrough for merchants and peddlersmdashSam would share a percentage o

his sales When the Illinois Central arrived in the next town the cus-

tomers were waiting Zemurray talked terms through the boxcar door

a tower o ripes at his back en for eight Tirteen for ten He broke off

a bunch put the money in his pocket Te whistle blew the train rolled

on He sold the last banana in Selma then went home in the dark

When he tallied his money it came to $190 His 1047297rst real success afer

accounting or expenses Sam had earned $40 in six days

Zemurray had stumbled on a niche ripes overlooked at the bottom

o the trade It was logistics Could he move the product aster than the

product was ruined by time Tis work was nothing but stress the

margins ridiculously small (like countereiting dollar bills) but it was

a way in Whereas the big ruit companies monopolized the upper pre-

cincts o the industrymdashyou needed capital railroads and ships to op-

erate in greensmdashthe world o ripes was wide open Within a ew weekso his return to Selma Zemurray set out again then again then again

It was in these months on train platorms and in small towns that

Zemurray 1047297rst came to be known as Sam the Banana Man

822019 The Fish That Ate the Whale The Life and Times of Americas Banana King

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullthe-fish-that-ate-the-whale-the-life-and-times-of-americas-banana-king 1313

amp (() (+

-01

2134 5 0673

8193019

lt= gt(= ( amp (()

--7710-

amp C8=B KE

822019 The Fish That Ate the Whale The Life and Times of Americas Banana King

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullthe-fish-that-ate-the-whale-the-life-and-times-of-americas-banana-king 913

18 bull The Fish That Ate the Whale

the boat was anchored these men swarmed across the deck ants on a

sugar pile working in organized teams

In the South in the days beore mechanical equipment bananas

were unloaded by hand the workers carrying the cargo a stem at atimemdashrom the hold where the shipment was packed in ice onto the

deck o the ship A banana stem is the ruit o an entire treemdasha hun-

dred pounds or more Each stem holds perhaps a hundred bunches

each bunch holds perhaps nine hands each hand holds perhaps 1047297feen

1047297ngersmdasha 1047297nger being a single banana It was backbreaking work and

dangerous not just or the shoulders and arms but also or the central

ner vous system As any banana cowboy would tell you banana plants

are prized nesting places or scorpions When the stems are cut downthe killers go along or the ride rom the banana plantation to the

jungle railroad to the whar to the ship across the Gul to Mobile or

New Orleans or Boston where they spring out stinging the 1047297rst steve-

dore they happen upon

Most workers on the banana docks were West Indians who arrived

in the southern ports on the ships that carried the cargo Early last

century newspaper reporters looking or local color ofen wrote about

these hired hands painting them in barbarous shades o minstrel

blue Tey described dark skin big lips grinning aces heavy haunches

their shirts as white as their eyes lifing and hauling working as one

man Tey pictured them in sunlight and gaslight moving like shad-

ows along the docks docile content occasionally breaking into hymns

and psalms and strange tribal music that chilled their white overseers

ldquoMost o them are Jamaican negroesrdquo Frederick Upham Adams wrote

in Conquest of the ropics ldquoblack as the ace o spades and care-ree asthe birds who sing in the adjacent park Fat negro lsquomammiesrsquo trudge in

with handcarts loaded with ood and sweetmeat delicacies dear to the

negro taste Powerul clusters o electric lights 1047298ash out in the vast

covered shed which protects the docks and the myriad lights o the

ship add their glow to the general effectrdquo

Sam would have watched closely as the workers ormed lines that

snaked rom the deck o the ship down a ramp and across the pier to

the waiting boxcars (He wanted to learn every detail o the trade)Each stem was passed rom man to man until it reached the open door

822019 The Fish That Ate the Whale The Life and Times of Americas Banana King

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullthe-fish-that-ate-the-whale-the-life-and-times-of-americas-banana-king 1013

Ripes bull 19

o the train where an agent rom the company examined it or bruises

reckles color I the stem passed muster it was loaded into the car

which was air cooled and straw 1047297lled When the car was ull the door

was swung shut and locked An empty car was rolled into its placeTis continued or hoursmdasha shif might run rom three pm until

midnight When a train was packed the switchman signaled and the

cargo was carried across the South

Te bananas that did not pass muster were dumped on the side o

the yard where they were urther divided Some were designated as

turnings meaning they were on their way to being worthless At the

end o the day they were sold at a discount to store owners and ped-

dlers You could see them with their carts piled high trundling throughthe streets calling ldquoBananas bananas or sale A nickel a bunch Yes

we have bananas we have bananas or salerdquo

Te bananas that did not make the cut as greens or turnings were

designated ldquoripesrdquo and heaped in a sad pile A ripe is a banana you have

lef in the sun that has become as reckled as a Hardy boy Tese ba-

nanas though still good to eat delicious even would never make it to

the market in time In less than a week they would begin to sofen and

stink As ar as the merchants were concerned they were trash When

de1047297ning a ripe Boston Fruit used the ollowing standard one reckle

turning two reckles ripe

Sam noticed everythingmdashthe care with which the bananas were

handled the way each boxcar was 1047297lled and rolled to a siding how

men rom the banana company college men moved through the

crowd barking ordersmdashbut paid special attention to the growing pile

o ripes Anything can cause a banana to ripen early I you squeeze agreen banana it will turn in days instead o weeks ditto i itrsquos nicked

dented or banged A ripe banana will cause those around it to ripen

and those will cause still others to ripen until an entire boxcar is ru-

ined Beore rerigeration was perected as much as 15 percent o an

average cargo ended up in the ripe pile

Sam grew 1047297xated on ripes recognizing a product where others had

seen only trash It was the worldview o the immigrant understanding

how so-called garbage might be valued under a different name seeingnutrition where others saw only waste He was the son o a Russian

822019 The Fish That Ate the Whale The Life and Times of Americas Banana King

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullthe-fish-that-ate-the-whale-the-life-and-times-of-americas-banana-king 1113

20 bull The Fish That Ate the Whale

armer or whom ood had once been scarce enough to make even a

reckled banana seem precious

Afer the ship had been unloaded afer the trains had carried off

the green bananas afer the merchants and peddlers had taken awaythe turnings Sam walked down to the pier to talk to the company

agent Tey spoke as the sun went down the man with the Ivy League

elocution and the kid with the Russian accent who rolled his r rsquos and

spit his vowels Zemurray had $150 Tat was his stake He 1047297gured it

would go urther i it was spent on ripes He was no ool He knew what

this meantmdashthat he would have to move ast that he was entering a

race with the clock Tree days 1047297ve at the most Afer that he would be

lef with a pile o glue But he believed he could make it As ar as hewas concerned ripes were considered trash only because Boston Fruit

and similar 1047297rms were too slow-ooted to cover ground It was a calcu-

lation based on arrogance I can be ast where others have been slow

I can hustle where others have been satis1047297ed with the easy pickings o

the trade

Zemurrayrsquos 1047297rst cargo consisted o a ew thousand bananas He did

not spend all his money but retained a small balance which he used

to rent part o a boxcar on the Illinois Central Te trip to Selma was

scheduled to take three days meaning he would have just enough time

to get the ruit to market beore the sun did its worst In most cases a

ruit hauler would spend a ew dollars extra or a bed in the caboose

but since the reight charge used the last o his money Zemurray trav-

eled in the boxcar with his bananas the door open the country drifing

by It seems appropriate Zemurray sleeping beside his 1047297rst haul attend-

ing to his product like a baby in a nurseryTe train lef on a uesday morning say the sun 1047297ery above the

smoky reight-yard dawn the clank o wheels over switches the ocean

drifing away Color and country blue in the morning green at mid-

day red in the evening Zemurray sat in the boxcar doorway Te train

traveled maddeningly inuriatingly exceedingly slow In the country

it went the speed o a trotting mule In the towns it was no aster than

a man walking In the cities it stopped altogether sometimes or hours

waiting or cargo and crew Zemurray paced the railroad bed handson his hips muttering

Stoplights emporary holds What was supposed to be three days

822019 The Fish That Ate the Whale The Life and Times of Americas Banana King

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullthe-fish-that-ate-the-whale-the-life-and-times-of-americas-banana-king 1213

Ripes bull 21

was turning into 1047297ve six With each hour the bananas became more

pungent He spoke to the conductor who commiserated saying ldquoWhat

a terrible shamerdquo

In a Mississippi train yard where the redbrick buildings eed storesand tinsmiths crowded close to the tracks a brakeman hearing Samrsquos

story said ldquoYoursquove got good product there I you could just get word

ahead to the towns along the line Irsquom sure the grocery owners would

meet you at the platorms and buy the bananas right off the boxcarsrdquo

During the next delay Zemurray went into a Western Union offi ce

and spoke to a telegraph operator Having no money Sam offered a

deal i the man radioed every operator ahead asking each o them

to spread the word to local merchantsmdashdirt-cheap bananas comingthrough for merchants and peddlersmdashSam would share a percentage o

his sales When the Illinois Central arrived in the next town the cus-

tomers were waiting Zemurray talked terms through the boxcar door

a tower o ripes at his back en for eight Tirteen for ten He broke off

a bunch put the money in his pocket Te whistle blew the train rolled

on He sold the last banana in Selma then went home in the dark

When he tallied his money it came to $190 His 1047297rst real success afer

accounting or expenses Sam had earned $40 in six days

Zemurray had stumbled on a niche ripes overlooked at the bottom

o the trade It was logistics Could he move the product aster than the

product was ruined by time Tis work was nothing but stress the

margins ridiculously small (like countereiting dollar bills) but it was

a way in Whereas the big ruit companies monopolized the upper pre-

cincts o the industrymdashyou needed capital railroads and ships to op-

erate in greensmdashthe world o ripes was wide open Within a ew weekso his return to Selma Zemurray set out again then again then again

It was in these months on train platorms and in small towns that

Zemurray 1047297rst came to be known as Sam the Banana Man

822019 The Fish That Ate the Whale The Life and Times of Americas Banana King

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullthe-fish-that-ate-the-whale-the-life-and-times-of-americas-banana-king 1313

amp (() (+

-01

2134 5 0673

8193019

lt= gt(= ( amp (()

--7710-

amp C8=B KE

822019 The Fish That Ate the Whale The Life and Times of Americas Banana King

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullthe-fish-that-ate-the-whale-the-life-and-times-of-americas-banana-king 1013

Ripes bull 19

o the train where an agent rom the company examined it or bruises

reckles color I the stem passed muster it was loaded into the car

which was air cooled and straw 1047297lled When the car was ull the door

was swung shut and locked An empty car was rolled into its placeTis continued or hoursmdasha shif might run rom three pm until

midnight When a train was packed the switchman signaled and the

cargo was carried across the South

Te bananas that did not pass muster were dumped on the side o

the yard where they were urther divided Some were designated as

turnings meaning they were on their way to being worthless At the

end o the day they were sold at a discount to store owners and ped-

dlers You could see them with their carts piled high trundling throughthe streets calling ldquoBananas bananas or sale A nickel a bunch Yes

we have bananas we have bananas or salerdquo

Te bananas that did not make the cut as greens or turnings were

designated ldquoripesrdquo and heaped in a sad pile A ripe is a banana you have

lef in the sun that has become as reckled as a Hardy boy Tese ba-

nanas though still good to eat delicious even would never make it to

the market in time In less than a week they would begin to sofen and

stink As ar as the merchants were concerned they were trash When

de1047297ning a ripe Boston Fruit used the ollowing standard one reckle

turning two reckles ripe

Sam noticed everythingmdashthe care with which the bananas were

handled the way each boxcar was 1047297lled and rolled to a siding how

men rom the banana company college men moved through the

crowd barking ordersmdashbut paid special attention to the growing pile

o ripes Anything can cause a banana to ripen early I you squeeze agreen banana it will turn in days instead o weeks ditto i itrsquos nicked

dented or banged A ripe banana will cause those around it to ripen

and those will cause still others to ripen until an entire boxcar is ru-

ined Beore rerigeration was perected as much as 15 percent o an

average cargo ended up in the ripe pile

Sam grew 1047297xated on ripes recognizing a product where others had

seen only trash It was the worldview o the immigrant understanding

how so-called garbage might be valued under a different name seeingnutrition where others saw only waste He was the son o a Russian

822019 The Fish That Ate the Whale The Life and Times of Americas Banana King

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullthe-fish-that-ate-the-whale-the-life-and-times-of-americas-banana-king 1113

20 bull The Fish That Ate the Whale

armer or whom ood had once been scarce enough to make even a

reckled banana seem precious

Afer the ship had been unloaded afer the trains had carried off

the green bananas afer the merchants and peddlers had taken awaythe turnings Sam walked down to the pier to talk to the company

agent Tey spoke as the sun went down the man with the Ivy League

elocution and the kid with the Russian accent who rolled his r rsquos and

spit his vowels Zemurray had $150 Tat was his stake He 1047297gured it

would go urther i it was spent on ripes He was no ool He knew what

this meantmdashthat he would have to move ast that he was entering a

race with the clock Tree days 1047297ve at the most Afer that he would be

lef with a pile o glue But he believed he could make it As ar as hewas concerned ripes were considered trash only because Boston Fruit

and similar 1047297rms were too slow-ooted to cover ground It was a calcu-

lation based on arrogance I can be ast where others have been slow

I can hustle where others have been satis1047297ed with the easy pickings o

the trade

Zemurrayrsquos 1047297rst cargo consisted o a ew thousand bananas He did

not spend all his money but retained a small balance which he used

to rent part o a boxcar on the Illinois Central Te trip to Selma was

scheduled to take three days meaning he would have just enough time

to get the ruit to market beore the sun did its worst In most cases a

ruit hauler would spend a ew dollars extra or a bed in the caboose

but since the reight charge used the last o his money Zemurray trav-

eled in the boxcar with his bananas the door open the country drifing

by It seems appropriate Zemurray sleeping beside his 1047297rst haul attend-

ing to his product like a baby in a nurseryTe train lef on a uesday morning say the sun 1047297ery above the

smoky reight-yard dawn the clank o wheels over switches the ocean

drifing away Color and country blue in the morning green at mid-

day red in the evening Zemurray sat in the boxcar doorway Te train

traveled maddeningly inuriatingly exceedingly slow In the country

it went the speed o a trotting mule In the towns it was no aster than

a man walking In the cities it stopped altogether sometimes or hours

waiting or cargo and crew Zemurray paced the railroad bed handson his hips muttering

Stoplights emporary holds What was supposed to be three days

822019 The Fish That Ate the Whale The Life and Times of Americas Banana King

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullthe-fish-that-ate-the-whale-the-life-and-times-of-americas-banana-king 1213

Ripes bull 21

was turning into 1047297ve six With each hour the bananas became more

pungent He spoke to the conductor who commiserated saying ldquoWhat

a terrible shamerdquo

In a Mississippi train yard where the redbrick buildings eed storesand tinsmiths crowded close to the tracks a brakeman hearing Samrsquos

story said ldquoYoursquove got good product there I you could just get word

ahead to the towns along the line Irsquom sure the grocery owners would

meet you at the platorms and buy the bananas right off the boxcarsrdquo

During the next delay Zemurray went into a Western Union offi ce

and spoke to a telegraph operator Having no money Sam offered a

deal i the man radioed every operator ahead asking each o them

to spread the word to local merchantsmdashdirt-cheap bananas comingthrough for merchants and peddlersmdashSam would share a percentage o

his sales When the Illinois Central arrived in the next town the cus-

tomers were waiting Zemurray talked terms through the boxcar door

a tower o ripes at his back en for eight Tirteen for ten He broke off

a bunch put the money in his pocket Te whistle blew the train rolled

on He sold the last banana in Selma then went home in the dark

When he tallied his money it came to $190 His 1047297rst real success afer

accounting or expenses Sam had earned $40 in six days

Zemurray had stumbled on a niche ripes overlooked at the bottom

o the trade It was logistics Could he move the product aster than the

product was ruined by time Tis work was nothing but stress the

margins ridiculously small (like countereiting dollar bills) but it was

a way in Whereas the big ruit companies monopolized the upper pre-

cincts o the industrymdashyou needed capital railroads and ships to op-

erate in greensmdashthe world o ripes was wide open Within a ew weekso his return to Selma Zemurray set out again then again then again

It was in these months on train platorms and in small towns that

Zemurray 1047297rst came to be known as Sam the Banana Man

822019 The Fish That Ate the Whale The Life and Times of Americas Banana King

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullthe-fish-that-ate-the-whale-the-life-and-times-of-americas-banana-king 1313

amp (() (+

-01

2134 5 0673

8193019

lt= gt(= ( amp (()

--7710-

amp C8=B KE

822019 The Fish That Ate the Whale The Life and Times of Americas Banana King

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullthe-fish-that-ate-the-whale-the-life-and-times-of-americas-banana-king 1113

20 bull The Fish That Ate the Whale

armer or whom ood had once been scarce enough to make even a

reckled banana seem precious

Afer the ship had been unloaded afer the trains had carried off

the green bananas afer the merchants and peddlers had taken awaythe turnings Sam walked down to the pier to talk to the company

agent Tey spoke as the sun went down the man with the Ivy League

elocution and the kid with the Russian accent who rolled his r rsquos and

spit his vowels Zemurray had $150 Tat was his stake He 1047297gured it

would go urther i it was spent on ripes He was no ool He knew what

this meantmdashthat he would have to move ast that he was entering a

race with the clock Tree days 1047297ve at the most Afer that he would be

lef with a pile o glue But he believed he could make it As ar as hewas concerned ripes were considered trash only because Boston Fruit

and similar 1047297rms were too slow-ooted to cover ground It was a calcu-

lation based on arrogance I can be ast where others have been slow

I can hustle where others have been satis1047297ed with the easy pickings o

the trade

Zemurrayrsquos 1047297rst cargo consisted o a ew thousand bananas He did

not spend all his money but retained a small balance which he used

to rent part o a boxcar on the Illinois Central Te trip to Selma was

scheduled to take three days meaning he would have just enough time

to get the ruit to market beore the sun did its worst In most cases a

ruit hauler would spend a ew dollars extra or a bed in the caboose

but since the reight charge used the last o his money Zemurray trav-

eled in the boxcar with his bananas the door open the country drifing

by It seems appropriate Zemurray sleeping beside his 1047297rst haul attend-

ing to his product like a baby in a nurseryTe train lef on a uesday morning say the sun 1047297ery above the

smoky reight-yard dawn the clank o wheels over switches the ocean

drifing away Color and country blue in the morning green at mid-

day red in the evening Zemurray sat in the boxcar doorway Te train

traveled maddeningly inuriatingly exceedingly slow In the country

it went the speed o a trotting mule In the towns it was no aster than

a man walking In the cities it stopped altogether sometimes or hours

waiting or cargo and crew Zemurray paced the railroad bed handson his hips muttering

Stoplights emporary holds What was supposed to be three days

822019 The Fish That Ate the Whale The Life and Times of Americas Banana King

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullthe-fish-that-ate-the-whale-the-life-and-times-of-americas-banana-king 1213

Ripes bull 21

was turning into 1047297ve six With each hour the bananas became more

pungent He spoke to the conductor who commiserated saying ldquoWhat

a terrible shamerdquo

In a Mississippi train yard where the redbrick buildings eed storesand tinsmiths crowded close to the tracks a brakeman hearing Samrsquos

story said ldquoYoursquove got good product there I you could just get word

ahead to the towns along the line Irsquom sure the grocery owners would

meet you at the platorms and buy the bananas right off the boxcarsrdquo

During the next delay Zemurray went into a Western Union offi ce

and spoke to a telegraph operator Having no money Sam offered a

deal i the man radioed every operator ahead asking each o them

to spread the word to local merchantsmdashdirt-cheap bananas comingthrough for merchants and peddlersmdashSam would share a percentage o

his sales When the Illinois Central arrived in the next town the cus-

tomers were waiting Zemurray talked terms through the boxcar door

a tower o ripes at his back en for eight Tirteen for ten He broke off

a bunch put the money in his pocket Te whistle blew the train rolled

on He sold the last banana in Selma then went home in the dark

When he tallied his money it came to $190 His 1047297rst real success afer

accounting or expenses Sam had earned $40 in six days

Zemurray had stumbled on a niche ripes overlooked at the bottom

o the trade It was logistics Could he move the product aster than the

product was ruined by time Tis work was nothing but stress the

margins ridiculously small (like countereiting dollar bills) but it was

a way in Whereas the big ruit companies monopolized the upper pre-

cincts o the industrymdashyou needed capital railroads and ships to op-

erate in greensmdashthe world o ripes was wide open Within a ew weekso his return to Selma Zemurray set out again then again then again

It was in these months on train platorms and in small towns that

Zemurray 1047297rst came to be known as Sam the Banana Man

822019 The Fish That Ate the Whale The Life and Times of Americas Banana King

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullthe-fish-that-ate-the-whale-the-life-and-times-of-americas-banana-king 1313

amp (() (+

-01

2134 5 0673

8193019

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Ripes bull 21

was turning into 1047297ve six With each hour the bananas became more

pungent He spoke to the conductor who commiserated saying ldquoWhat

a terrible shamerdquo

In a Mississippi train yard where the redbrick buildings eed storesand tinsmiths crowded close to the tracks a brakeman hearing Samrsquos

story said ldquoYoursquove got good product there I you could just get word

ahead to the towns along the line Irsquom sure the grocery owners would

meet you at the platorms and buy the bananas right off the boxcarsrdquo

During the next delay Zemurray went into a Western Union offi ce

and spoke to a telegraph operator Having no money Sam offered a

deal i the man radioed every operator ahead asking each o them

to spread the word to local merchantsmdashdirt-cheap bananas comingthrough for merchants and peddlersmdashSam would share a percentage o

his sales When the Illinois Central arrived in the next town the cus-

tomers were waiting Zemurray talked terms through the boxcar door

a tower o ripes at his back en for eight Tirteen for ten He broke off

a bunch put the money in his pocket Te whistle blew the train rolled

on He sold the last banana in Selma then went home in the dark

When he tallied his money it came to $190 His 1047297rst real success afer

accounting or expenses Sam had earned $40 in six days

Zemurray had stumbled on a niche ripes overlooked at the bottom

o the trade It was logistics Could he move the product aster than the

product was ruined by time Tis work was nothing but stress the

margins ridiculously small (like countereiting dollar bills) but it was

a way in Whereas the big ruit companies monopolized the upper pre-

cincts o the industrymdashyou needed capital railroads and ships to op-

erate in greensmdashthe world o ripes was wide open Within a ew weekso his return to Selma Zemurray set out again then again then again

It was in these months on train platorms and in small towns that

Zemurray 1047297rst came to be known as Sam the Banana Man

822019 The Fish That Ate the Whale The Life and Times of Americas Banana King

httpslidepdfcomreaderfullthe-fish-that-ate-the-whale-the-life-and-times-of-americas-banana-king 1313

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822019 The Fish That Ate the Whale The Life and Times of Americas Banana King

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