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the evening star.(washington d.c.) 1889-08-17 [p 11]. · sleep wa* dreaml*** aad undisturbed until...

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  • The Evening star.(Washington D.C.) 1889-08-17 [p 11]. · sleep wa* dreaml*** aad undisturbed until werwachedAbell'* wharf, whioh isin th*cot* *s route to Leonardtown. I knew it wa*
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FROM SHORE TO SHORE. A TRIP TO BALTIMORE BY BOAT. Odd People and Places in Mary¬ land and Virginia, Sketched by a Star Reporter. HERE are many way* by which those who de- ^ "T 0 *ir* to visit the city of / Baltimore may accom- pli*h their object. Two PQII] railroad* provide num- * erou* and inexpensive opportunities every day w in the year; an eqae*- * trian enthusiast may go over on horseback; the bicyclist is at lib- arty to wrestle with a not too satisfactory high¬ way for the forty miles which separate the two citi**. and the pedestrian can make a pilgrim¬ age to or fro without let or hindrance, except such as t* furnished by the mud. which during this summer has had no opportunity to dry up. But to the seeker after rest and recreation. the mortal to whom a few hours' time is of no particular consequence.there is a much bet¬ ter way. Go via the Potomac and Chesapeake bay. Lots of people go that way now and if the public geuerally knew how much of the pleasant and healthful is to be found in the trip there would be crowded boats all the time. Everybody in Washington either knows or ought to know all about the Potomac from the city down to Colonial Reai'h, but when the steamer's bow plows the bracki«h waters south of that resort and ae^ks the green and briny depths there ar>> comparatively few who have any but vague ideas as to the character of the waters beyond and whose eves have re¬ flected the beautiful scenery wnich fringes the shores of the lower Potomac. It so happens that there is only one boat which affords op¬ portunities to eujoy these pleasures, and it was on her deck.for the steamer Sue must be of the feminine gender.that I stood last Sunday afternoon and wntcBed the preparations which were being made for departure. Stephenson's wharf was crowded, principally with colored P*0P»*..and to any one who knew no better it S 2yE£25JJ? VM2 S5T£, **er*ioin» * " e'# The *en«.re'om*ov .gers going to some of the lower landing. were instantly the central figures in a doz/n FTO A depart,ng mother waaNUrroMded * dozen of her children and their e>m Pan ions, and before she was relcL d inn i?" lowed to go on board she wJ k^Td 4nd * " teeJer^re1'^ °Q the b°<" .*«-" We?toZnZrg, enacted- Farewell mes- froni which return wai improbable Thon We'- again. tbeTowd* rushe^for the' KcK ¦iito',tSre^offwh?id °tei,wer of hundred colored fnlka on' the wharf °w«vJh ftnd shouted their adieus to tK« ? colored peopled b£E represented on the Sue bv aboat flff* .xcur.iomsu, and it did not ^7more than'a cursory glance to show that thev were of th«» ^ *bict knows how to £ned ^ tbrD A"*" wh0 are e'ther bur- in i \ oatentauous wealth or are loid in the declaration of their satisfying covertv They were well-to-do sociable folk's, an! to this whichaDttenededa^euTph °' ^ pleMUre i'** ftrs«s li therj were pasaen^erw I hp heve there was a .light « r^Ks^ngeT Voided n^m8,"nal a"d could Tave been r.rcr£ bed min o^f UPr°'T,deii ,"i»«»f«2 busy time from the start for there J beZZ" '^7 and n,UBerous docnm nu to fcfSS ^a'ndS At were ImS^?i. passengers Mid freight great .hipping point tor Cli.rl*. countv ¦ niale passenger was added to the list. If Liver¬ pool point was only decorated with anew wharf «iid SHVSST'M ""' """. « ¦rwn. Supper wa* an institution which eaptnred the crowd, and at 6 o'clock the cabin deck was practically deserted. There were a few spoon¬ ing couple# who preferred, however, to wait Bv'ffoodT ° wUld eat. in COIUParative solitude. SS^sssssrssuKt: a£«atts ..sa *J° i'i " iu.?r °f 5../.sr.Vi't. .. tage in being where the c.nZ , . adv,n' 7CamUhtOTm* 0t l^ie or^lu"rilyelu(itve waited sStSHSSiSS rtion .r our ubJe occupied by a nartvof It.morgans, who were makinir the n ... i V .. guest, of Mr. James K.®Sr a wen ^knowE bu-u.es. man in the Monumenul c'tv and do more forUthe''U,e of humaniiv ore lor the general welfare of full... r...J .xUgnt t(tlU,n d'd th*** pooU people, unless we capuun. He. of courie sat at tho head of,he board, and it is no, too much £>«y he -a grace before meat." " SnOBT a*D SLtMBCS, .n 1 /.Knpprr th*r" wa* calnj- The forward .nd of the «.oon d^-k waa the favorite resting takTw ^ ber! th® ma)orl,-v ttt conversed Saft as tr- , 7itthlD* ^ of other craft aa they fluted tnrough the neutral tint of jpproaching night, looking Uke Marine pW .oma. 1 be bnM.,e-ruffled river was fuh of dvmg hghu and deepening shadows; the long ¦aemed as though there was no outlet.due to rirer" The moon came which mm alW^h red',°r nthtr th- c'oads Ugmv* color, thiaa"ehu - ^ h . P0"" aad Po'nt Mat- thr^. Wer® tir«t aighted, and for a while .il co*r atato- w aieep, perchance to dream." absl'i wuu. Numerous landing* war* mad* on the Maryland side daring th* night, but my sleep wa* dreaml*** aad undisturbed until we rwached Abell'* wharf, whioh is in th* cot* *s route to Leonard town. I knew it wa* Abeil'* wharf a* soon a* I saw it because Mr. Douglas*, th* seoond ottcer. told me so and I b*!i*v*d him, but i>*ith*r h* nor anJ on* *!*« had to tell rae when w# reached Leonardtown. The identity of that antique.which look* .. though it had just been dug up by Dr. tichlie- niaun or Beckwith A Quackenboah. or tome other of the world-reuownsd excavators.tu satisfactorily established by the legend "Leon¬ ard town, Md.." painted with white waterproof paint (I won't tay whose) on ft roof of red. As soon as the boat touched the venerable wharf we went ashore. '-We," in thiscaee, meat* Mr. C. C. Mothsrsead of the Weetern Union offloe in Waahington and myself of Tu Stab. It was one of thoae cool, bright, sunshiny mon- ing* which make any well-oalanoed man with he did not haTe work, and, ae we had no pros¬ pective toil for at least twenty-four hours, we enjoyed the occasion immensely. Up the old, winding road, with groves of magnificent tim¬ ber on both sides of the way, we ascended to the Tillage. We asked quite a number of peo¬ ple who was the anthor of the place and were surprised at the unanimity of their replies. 1 hey all united in evading the responsibility and in shifting it onto the shoulders of the second Lord Baltimore, who platted the subdi¬ vision and sold lots as early as 1663. Some of the people who bought from that amiablo and lordly speculator have never been able to get even on the expenditure up to the present time. When the hill had been climbed the first buildings to attract the attention of visitors were those devoted to the collation and dis¬ semination of news.the centers of looal Jour¬ nalistic endeavor. The itt. Mary's Beacon, which is democratic, is in the same building as the post office, although the mails are handled by a Republican postmistress.a strange com¬ bination anywhere but in Leonardtown.while from across the way and in a mora antique structure the St Mary's Enlerprine glares re¬ publican defiance from a sign evidently done lu chalk by some master hand. The impres¬ sion of a stranger would probably betray him into making a remark about the honesty of the residents and their childish trustfulness as to ,tr*-v Kuests, for on the Enterprise porch and in front of a number of dwellings were quite a large assortment of chairs just in the same positions ad they occupied the previous evening when the caucus adjourned. In Washington, or in any other well-regulated citv, those chairs would have been stolen, but in Leonard- town they were safe. I examined them at snort range and cime to the conclusion that unless Leonardtown can produce more con¬ vincing testimony to its honesty than the fail¬ ure to appropriate such wrecks of chairs it will forever be regarded with suspicion. The post office was casually inspected and approved of. Mothersead said he heard one of the early risers ask the postmistress how long it woulil be before the mail was distributed, and in re¬ ply she said it would be late, because there were so many postal cards this time. I pre¬ sume he wanted ns to infer that all postal cards have to be read to see whether there are anv expressions on them which should prevent their passage through the office and make the sender liable to the law. H* TO UOXABDTOWff. The guileless people of this region practice a good deal of unwitting deception on the pil¬ grim who only makes a brief sojourn. At 6 0 clock in the morning the saloons (except those attached to the two hotelsj'are all closed, but the general stores are all open. The saloons unbar their front doors at 8 a.m. That would convey the impression to the unsophisticated stranger that Leonardtown was in the habit of indulging in hardware and other non-intoxi¬ cantsfos at least two hours previous to partak- ing of eye-openers. The impression is not a fair one, for I was informed that the stores go to sleep at about 6 p.m.. after dozing and nod¬ ding all day, while the saloons remain open until after midnight, so you see the balance of time and of trade is with the saloons by a ma- Jority of four hours in every twenty-four. Thev raayU a little late starting in the morning, but the proprietors know that pretty nearly everybody g^t enough the night before to last until 8 o clock. and then the bar tenders- hard-working men down there.must have a little rest. Do you want to see an old-fash- n°n»e«f /i" D. t botel?J They've got at least one of them at Leonardtown. Our little partv entered it apparently unnoticed by the three or four men who were hanging around, but there was a boy there who eyed us suspiciously and whose most piercing glances seemed to be directed at me. Then he recognized me, and 1 knew in a moment that ray usefulness was temporarily gone. That youngster, who was as fresh as saltless oatmeal porridge, evidently wanted to prejudice the community against me, ror he proclaimed my occupation in a tone of voice that was several sizes larger than himself. So tar as tl\e hotel clerk was concerned his ef¬ forts resulted in failure, for that functionary came forward in a hurry and in a mysterious whisper asked me if I wouldn't -try some- i j . t"anl'e<1 him, but declined. He van¬ ished almost instantaneously from our sight and we saw him no more. Subsequent inquiry developed the fact that he was not seriously injured by my refusal, but the shock staggered him considerably. He recovered in a few ?** than * 0,00111 be had a some¬ what similar experience, which started a crop of gray hair and loosened several front teeth. The president of one of the most comprehen¬ sive of Washington's street railroad systems walked into the hotel and called for a glass of Apo 11 maris water. ' ' 1ueried the combination clerk ana D«tr tender. "A glass of Apollinaris water," calmly re¬ peated the visitor. For fulfy half a minute the animated cork¬ screw gazed at the well-dressed and good-Iook- all<J then he B«*P«d out: "We don t sell no water here." A TYPICAL HOTEL. The hotel office was also the billiard room. It was a study for an archaeologist. The office chairs lacked backs and would undoubtedly have lacked seats had not those portions of the furniture been originally hewn out of two-inch solid walnut plank. That the proprietor was or had bom,on good terms with the Congruss- X.hW"r'd,ent fr°m t,he """'J of literature cou..Lg TtTik !LC°U,ple ,of Hhelvfc8 behind the counter, lilack-bound volumes on commerce and navigation and numerous consular reports were squeezed up in company with the learned publications of the bureau of education. They were in splendid condition, due probably to the STS&ffiiSr'iMOt crprtc'u int^« LaoersA rli¦ h i ? pol'uC aud frmil.v story |, iTh ! ur0m b*"*nth "hose wings truJr*lth .r U>ey were stuffed pro- . r' V, F, * ra»c 10 » dingv ht.nJ .i I,cture* wer« numerous wd badly hung; they were generally highly-colored reo- resen tat ions of fast horse*. although a few £f uin which gorae- occuni r mOWer' or'freshing machine occupied the foreground to the exclusion of ' » billiard table was a de¬ lightful specimen of its kind; the species is 'IrifrV use had broken utT the »aniB n! lU dark Kreen »orf»ce, and a game plaved upon it was one of those uncertain for~» H L®utco®® ot »hich no mortal can cttruvr i* * TmJ f 7 * of chaooe" ln OQO corner is a long rip tn the moth-eaten cloth, »«1 i 2*0ud Lord Baltimore when he was endeavoring to astonish the natives with a masse shot.the first ever seen in Maryland. Mourrao ABLtrrtoHs. Glancing oat of ths rsar window we mw a r»ther stylishly-dressed colored girl perform¬ ing her morning ablutions. Ths Leonardtown water works are possibly out of order, and it is more than orobablo that there was no water in the young lady's chamber, so she came down to ths pump to wash. She was eomnlstalv Arrayed and had a couple of bri*ht-hued rib- bons around hsr neck. With one * ££ ud 'with' the other fifteen drop* of the cold (laid at her connto* ¦¦.co. Then the (hook her her head three or four time* and went about her autiee.washed clean. 8ii passenger* cam* np to the hotel from the wharf on the hotel coacb. and the male* of the party evidently imagined it waa cold, for they bad their hata palled down over their eye* ana their ooat oollara ware tamed a p. HOW TUT DKIKK. Leonardtown ha* no indostrie*, *o I waa in¬ formed by one of the native*, and when I aaked him what the people did there he laid-. "Well, we drink mar* whiaky and play card* more persistently than any other community in Maryland.' Onee in a great while a native get* hold of a drink that i* too mnch for him. A liquor-hardened old darkey who hannta the wbarfwhen the boat i* there and watche* eagerly for an opportunity to capture a s wal- uw or *°l more than he calculated on. Me made a atnmp speech to a number of the EjTeDK?r® aa<' WM rewarded by one of them with a thirst producer that made the old man'a eye* sparkle before he tossed it down. They P°n »drink at Leonard town; thev Just throw it into the orifice and taate it a* it trickles down into the lower system. The mixture given the orator was composed of aboat three fingers each of whisky and Jamaica ginger. When he had gulped it down he sat on the sand and tried to breathe, but the boat was well out into the river before be succeeded. The next time the Sue came around the old man sought out Capt. *,n, him what kind or a drink that gentleman had given him. tain genuine old rye," said the cap- "Doan want no m& ole rye" the sufferer ejaculated; "pine Juice good nuff foh me. Din .!{} Yuz dronk foh three days an1 didn t git up from de wl»'f all 'at night Doan want no mo ole rye." 1 ankee pnsb ft what Leonardtown needs. Jiatnre seems to have done everything for the place and if it was in the north it would be one of the principal summer resorts. It is healthy and has every natural advantage, but it lacks the get-up-and-dust spirit which is at the bot¬ tom of true success. Breakfast filled up a good deal of the interval between Leonardtown and Pmev Point, where the boat arrived Jnst before 9 a.m. The Point is quite pretty this Season and rejoices in numerous brilliantly white buildings. several nags and a large assortment of trees with white washed trunks. Several of the prettv girls who are stopping at the hotel came out to greet the few new arrivals and to smile at those who were unfortunately booked through to Balti¬ more Here, as at all other landings, the steamer received a good deal or freight. The bulk of the cargo snipped from Pinev Point was tobacco; it was in home-made hogsheads, which contain from 600 to 800 pounds each. * he tobacco business as conducted in this part or Maryland is. as Dundreary so truthfully and so frequently renincped of other matters, "one of those things wMch no fellah can And out." Everybody in all (ne region round about knows that it does not pay to raise the weed, but they keep on doing ft ju«t aa regularly as though there waa a fortune in every season1* crop. A TOPICAL FARMER. I have an unfortunate way of poking mv nose into other people'* business, and I was bound to And out why men who are apparently sane will insist on sinking themselves and their farms in a slough of mortgages which ulti¬ mately must swallow up so many homesteads; so I drew a vouug farmer into conversation on' the subject and found him to be a most intelli¬ gent and delightfully frank specimen of his clans. He had some tobacco on board which was being taken around to Baltimore to be sold. It was a poor grade, he said, and he did not expect to realize more than 1^ cents a pound. He acknowledged that this was a low figure but he was not a bit unhappv. -All we want,'' said he, "is a comfortable living, and that the most of us get. We raise a little corn or wheat, a fair quantity of vegetable*, and a good deal of fruit, and with the exception of the fruit, most of it is only for consumption at home. The river provides ns with solid mate¬ rial for breakfast, dinner and supper.all the fish and oysters anybody wants.and what to¬ bacco we raise provides us with about enough money to buy guano for the next year and per¬ haps to pay the interest on a mortgage or two. If you can afford to hirj lots of labor then von can raise a superior grade of tobacco, but there is no money even in that. I know a man who has a big family of boys, ail bard workers- they are doing very well and 1 reckon they are laying up money. If our land didn't need so much fertilizer we might make a living off to¬ bacco or wheat, but with low prices tor both products, distant markets and heavy guauo bills we are like the frog in the well, who climbed up one foot during the day and shooed back two feet each night." THE COSCLC9IOW. During the day I talked with a number of natives on the boat and on both the Maryland and \ irgima shores. There was only one con¬ clusion to come to when the evidence was all in. and that was that the country iv in a worse condition today than it was ten years ago. Large tracts of land are held bv people who will neither rent nor sell and who are com- pelled to work at some trade or profession in order that they may be able to pav the taxes on their holdings. There is less activity and more whisky on the Maryland side than in Virginia, but neither of the shores are prospering as they ought. Very few of the me-j are there who will not forsake the little work they may happen to have on hand to participate in a game of cards Woe betide the stranger who allows himself to be drawn in, for while he may be smart enough to hold his own with oue opponent he is helpless as a babe in the hands of three ex¬ perts who are being aided and abetted by all the bystander*. mcjsdat'b point was the first place on the Virginia side touched by the Sue after leaving Piney Point; in fact it was the first Virginia port entered since Alexandria was left behind. The point is a low but picturesque place. Where L. W. Courtney baa bis business headquarters. Mr. Courtney l* refreshingly enterprising; he deals exten¬ sively in fish and oysters and has a large general store. The Columbia fishing club of Washington has a house near the point and for the past fifteen year* the club i enthusiasts have visited this spot to fish This year those members of the club who can get awav will go down to their favorite ground ou the first Sunday in September. Everybody in the vicinity of the national capital has heard of Monday'* Point oysUrs, and. of course, everybody will be very sorry to hear that thev are rather scarce this year. Over the oyster beds up Yeocomico creek went the Sue, and after a devious trip, which kept the captain at the wheel, she sidled up to the wharf at Lodge Landing. Leaning gracefully against the store house on the wharf was a col¬ ored girl, who ia known as the -Sue's' angel. It may be raining cats and dogs, or there may be a heavy thunder storm in progress, or the snow may be tilling the air witn its fleecy chil¬ liness, but the "augel" never misses the boat. fe- ¦ * blic is always there and in Just about the one attitude. She walks on board as though she expucted to meet some one. glides around in her No. 11 gait rs. and then returns to the ad¬ mirable obscurity which is afforded by the lo¬ cality in which she resides. At this port we were deprived of the society of a couple of col¬ ored female*, who, in all the glory of Hading veils anil yellow slipper*, had condescended to CrIBt jOWU from Washington for the purpose of inflicting Uiemselves upon some of their helpless bucolic relatives, l'hev were met on landing by a fourteen or fifteen-year-old col¬ ored bo v who looked supremely uncomfortable in a full suit of good clothes and a pair of heavy shoe*, lie shouldered their trunk and took it np to an ox-cart which stood in the road, then he came back for them and their valises. Under his escort the giggling visitors approached the ancient vehicle with cries of "Is that our cab?" ''What a nice hack!" 4c. y'l'l' ?u their baggage, they were dex¬ uberate |y driven toward their summer resort. A great deal of freight was taken on at Lodge. 1 here were peaches, sweet potatoes, chicken*, ducks, P'gs. and a calf for the Baltimore mar¬ ket*. rhe calf deserve* especial mention be¬ cause he caused more trouble in the loading than all the other stuff put together. A couple of heavy boxes, addressed to Major E. H. r> A °' tlje division of supplies in th« Poet Office department, contained canceling stamp*, for it i* at thi* place that Mr. B. Chamber*, the contractor for the supply of these stamp*, has his factory. vv 3 end of i couple of old wharf stringer* wnre pio- tureaque objects In the Uudiotp* on the return trip between Lodge Landing and Monday's Point. They did not, however, attract aa muoh attention aa did a boat load of oolored rirla who were evidently endeavoring to delude them- .elvee into the belief that they were enjoying tbemselvee in one of thoee *lim tailing craft with which theee water* abound. Monday'* Point wai toon paseed. but instead of nuking out toward the river Capt Oeoghegan turned the Sue'* aoee inland again, and inn little while the flailing village of Kinsale waa visible to the naked eye. 8eated peacefully in an old punt, intent on their fishing linea, were two colored folka, one male 'tother female. By and by the tteamer'a awell insinuated' itaelf under the shallop'* quarter.or rather under one corner of the thing.and then the scene became *ud- Vcnly animated. No livee were loet, but there came floating on the breeze objurgatory aounda that were probably profane in their origin and unparliamentary in their tenor. ths woxDcnrui. kik*aiji nosrxrjtT. The boat stopped nt Kinsale for nearly an hour, eo lota of the paaaengeri got off and tramped around to enjoy the icenery and to .py out the land generally. The flrit object which enlist* the attention of the tourist is a big sign in front of a little frame shanty, and on the sign is that fateful combination of words, "bar room." There is nothing tempt¬ ing in the appearance of the interior, to I don't think it capturedS single paaaenger. The greater portion of Kinsale stands npon a high hill, and in the center of the settlement are several dozen cords of firewood and Uardwick's hotel. The hotel is the curiosity of the place, and whoever visits the neighborhood without looking at that hostelry will miss much. How old the building is no ono knows. The memory of the oldest inhabitant reaches back for sev¬ eral generations, but the hotel was one of the first things on which his fond recollection fast¬ ened itaelf. Judged by the curled shingles on its roof it is at least one hundred years old, and an addition which was tacked on to it during the Mexican war looks comparatively young. When we called the premises were guarded on the other side by a blind old dog who was tied up in the yard. No one disputed our right to enter, so we went into what had once been the hotel bar¬ room, aud my first impression was that some delirious and whisky-soaked scene painter had transferred his awful visions to the walls of the apartment. Staring at us from the wall oppo¬ site the front doorway was George Washington, looking extremely ungraceful aud uncomforta¬ ble on a horse who was standing on one hind leg while the other described ail odd-looking gesture in the imaginary air. The combat be¬ tween the monitor and the Morrimac was de¬ picted on another side wall; the boiler-plate rocks, rivets and all complete, were admirably dono in all sorts of impossible hues. Then there was a beautifully green landscape alongside the kitchen door in which everything was as far re¬ moved as possible from anything like the im¬ pressionist school. In the only dark corner in the room was another life-size picture of a man on horseback. The man's features were a cross between those carried around by Tom Ochil¬ tree and the well-known trade mark on a league baseball. The horse was evideutly modeled after one of the wonderful specimen* to be found in this benighted region. I noticed that the host remained in the kitchen while the members of our party were criticizing the productions from an artistic standpoint, and supposed that some of our opinions aid not coincide with his. THE ARTISTIC TRAMP. The truth came out later, and in the follow¬ ing legend we found the reason for his persist¬ ent absence. Once upon a time, as the story books say, a tramp painter.a painter by trade .made his appearance at Kinsale and secured a room and consumed board at Mr. Hardwick'*, which is the only inn in the village. The tramp was well clad aud was oily of tongue, so he did not have much difficulty in persuading his host that his object in coming to Kinsale was the building and putting into active operation of a toy factory. One thing alone prevented him from starting the enterprise immediately and that was lack of funds. He was a Col. Mul¬ berry Selieni. this fellow, and into the ope* ears of the populace he poured tales of the great prosperity which should come to Kinsale when the toy factory w;is at work; there was "millions in it." For three weeks the preparations (which consisted principally in borrowing various sums of money from the natives) went stesdiiv on. and to w hile away the hours and show his ability the alleged artist decorated the room as we saw it. Then matters were so far advanced that he de¬ cided to go to Washington to bring therefrom his wife and children. To make this trip money was needed, and tho kindly-hearted Hardwick advanced him a sufficient sum. and then, in order that he might reap some benefit from the excursion, Hardwick proposed to the Eainter that he take with him a valuable young orse to sell til Washington. To this proposi¬ tion the tramp"<Juietly agreed. Neither he nor the horse, nor the money have been seen by any oue from Kinsale since the day of his de¬ parture for the capital city. Can any one wonder at Mr. Hardwick's sadness of expres¬ sion or at his preference for staying away while we were in the room. A FORLORN ANIMAL. Going back to the boat Mr. Wheeler discov¬ ered one of the most miserable-looking speci¬ mens of horseflesh it was ever my lot to behold, hitched to a two-wheeled vehicle of a genus not known. The harness which aided the shafts in supporting the horse was com¬ posed of all the materials (save and except leather) that human ingenuity could seek out. We looked for the man or bov whose conscience would allow him to ask that horse to "get up," but he was missing.probably drinking whisky down at the wharf, while his starving steed was tearing the Itraw stuffing out of its collar in a vain endeavor to satisfy an appetite that was large enough to accommodate two bushels of oat* and 41 pounds of hay; to say nothing of corn and chopped feed. DINNER AND COAN RIVER came at about the same time, but what we lost in scenery (for we were on the sunny side of the boat and the blinds of the dining saloon were closed) was more than compensated for in victuals. At Coan wharf a number of passen¬ gers got on, some of them Washingtonians, and there were many boxes of peaches and lots of other freight stowed away on the lower deck. Cowart's wharf added a little to tho load aud then the boat was he/tded for Lewis' wharf. Just as she approached within two or three hundred yards of it there were two boys on the wharf; one large, oue small. There was a brief struggle, ft splash, aud then the big boy was alone; the little one, clothed and all, was in the water. He did not seem to mind the ducking, but swam easily and swiftly to a boat which was near and ciimbed in. Some¬ body said he was a Washington youngster, whose folks are summering in the vicinity. Lewis, who owns the wharf, is a busy man. Ho controls 3.000 acres of oyster beds leased to him bv the Virginia legislature. He pays 9800 annually as rent and his taxes amount to t700 more, so it is no wonder that ho objects to the oyster pirates dredging over his property. He had several warm fights with them last spring and has secured a number of indictments against the pirate kings. We had i good deal of fun with ono lady who, after furtively endeavoring to scratch her back by rubbing it against various projec¬ tions, was foroed to defy modern etiquette by clawing at the itching region with tier good right hand. She excused herself by informing the amused onlookers that she had been visit¬ ing a friend in Washington whoso house wae temporarily plagued with fieaa. She had brought attoast one away with her. ACSOM THE FQTOMAG once more to where tho narrow foreshore*, with their beaches of white sand, are in p'»'» ?isw, looking, very probably, jut aa they did to Lord Baltimore and hi* follower* when they went up the St. Mary'* river in " boat*. The timber wa* more dense in thooe day*, and there were fewer field* of com, but the land¬ scape has not changed much in two oenturie* and a halt Tho stream is jut a* sinuous and lust aa pretty. Bight at the month of 81 Inigo's creek we named Fort Point In Mm ggod old ooionial dag* there wa* » fort hare, and it had gun* in it The drag lappet the bank* gradually, sad in the course of time the guns were washed into the itream. Father Car berry had them dragged to the surface and on to dry Land again, and now the four ancient cannon.each long as a fence rail, it is said. make warlike the appearance of the court yard of Georgetown college. On Prieet'i Point, about a mile farther Inland, are a number of good building*, the moet prominent being the large structure in which the young Jesuits hold a three-week*' retreat .Tory rammer. In thia region the Jeenite own over seven thousand acres of the choicest flarm- iag land In this part of Maryland. Loao aaLTmoax's laxdixo. Smooth steaming through waters that had not a ripple on their surface until vexed by the boat Soon brought as to the place where tradition says was the spot on which the first Lord Baltimore first set foot in the new oountr/. A green point Jute into the creek An weet side ana in one place the fringe of timber is broken by a little inlet. That is the place; and from there the party of explorers is said to have walked up to tne site of St. Mary's City. The site is still there and can be seen by any one who doubts ths truthfulness of this simple narrative. Lots may bs purchased cheap and on long time. At Priest's Point there was some freight put off and a little taken on. Late, but still in time to cakh the boat was an old barefooted, dilapi¬ dated and dirtv specimen of the poor white farmers of St. Mary'a. He was acting as driver and conductor for a yoke of nice-looking steer*, who were trotting down the sandy road with a huge hogshead of tobacco in the cart. The load was speedily dumped by a couple of muscular mon. but they were not cautious, for in their exuberance they came within a few nails of destroying what was left of the wharf. A calf and a'lustv three-year-old steer were successively rushed up the' gang plank after much tail-twisting and wearisome endeavor. Quitea number of brightly-clad colored children played around the store house, snd one young¬ ster who wasn't clad in anything worth men¬ tioning dabbled in the water and fooled with a large assortment of crabs which he hud just captured. Rosecroft is the name of the place where the revenue collector lived in the days of the first Lord Baltimore and although the collector's family must have suffered considerably from the attacks of mosquitoes their home was beau¬ tifully located. A modern farm-house occu¬ pies the site of the abode of him who sat at tho receipt of custom; it is a pretty place and could be made much more so. at bt. mart's citt a dozen of us went ashore to view the remains. It was a hurried trip aud was undertaken with felonious intent. Mr. Wheeler, who was the leader in all expeditions of a piratical nature, suggested that we go up to the old church¬ yard and secure each a piece of the mulberry tree uuder which Lord Cocil Culvert sat in a high-backed old oak chair at a mahogany table when he signed a treaty with the Indians of Southern Maryland. His lordship made al¬ most as good a bargain as William Penn did with the unsuspecting redskins further north. We found the church and the churchyard but there was no tree. Where was it? Diligent search resulted in the discovery of one of the original Ethiopian settlers. He informed us that the mulberry tree was "dun took up to de chu'ch so some of dem toorists cu'dn't chop it up," but he escorted us to the spot where it used to be and was up to less than a vear ago. Tho place is marked by a stone. Tne only other center of interest in the vicinity was the St. John's academy for young ladies. Several of the fair pupils saw fit to smile at us from a distance (something they wouldn't have had they come closer) and several members of our crowd were in the act of returning the compliment with leers of various sizes and de¬ scription* when Capt. Qeoghegan, who evi¬ dently imagined we could be better employed, pulled the string which starts the whistle. Then we scaled a high fence and dropped down into the road, which, it may be casually men¬ tioned. was jarringly and unexpectedly de¬ pressed. St. Mary's City is years old and is small for its age. Barely visible from tho steamer, because it was away out of our course, was the island which Capt. Howgate bought not very long before his somewhat hasty departure from Washington. He named it Tippitywitchitr Island and used to have great times thereon. Son a Scotch gentleman.a Mr. Stevens.and his family occupy it and are happy all the year round. A USELESS WHARF. Near the landing at St. Mary's City was a wharf which had and which probably still has a most forlorn and deserted appearance. It is the tide-water terminus of the Southern Mary¬ land and Point Lookout railroad company. From this place a regular line of steamer* were to run direct to France. Building the wharf caught a good many of the farmer* who had a little money to spare, but it will strike some people as a rather odd thing to build a wharf at a prospective railroad terminus when not a single tie had been laid down on any part of the route. More than one man's life went out stormily and disastrously because of stock in¬ terests in that "air" line. "This is Bacon's wharf," said First Officer Simmonds in answer to my inquiry as we drew up to a ricketty old structure on our -way out to the bay. How are the mighty fallen? In the early days this place was Portobelle, and at its water-front bluff-bowed European merchantmen took on board cargoes of tobacco and other native product*. Here is the old "rolling road" down which were rolled the thousands of tobacco hogsheads which were annually exported. At 5:30. not far from the mouth of the St Mary's river, the Sue stopped and took on board a party of Baltimore-English people who had been camping out on St. George's Island. One of the partv was a lively young fellow who did everything he could to keep his companions awake. He made a couple of caricature sketches of unwitting passengers, but did not dream that my lynx-eye and pencil were re¬ cording his shape for publication. I caught him, plaid suit, cap, sketch-book and all. Then we went out into the Potomac, at thia place fullv 10 miles wide. Looking toward the tho Maryland shore the scene was one of rare beauty, the almost horisontal rays of sunlight having . most striking effect on the home- dotted landscape. A long strip of yellow sand relieved the multi-tints of green in the tide, turf antimber. Few places appear more at¬ tractive . than Calvert's bay, which curves gracefully from Kitt's Point to Gray's Point, while a pretty stream with an ordinary name. Smith's Creek.flows out from ite center. unless it hns sinoe Un eoaapleted. tt to still odd. The builder commenced at the outer end Irst ud when enoagh pile* had beeu driven on which to pat down on* or two hundred square feet of flooring he stopped. A doable row of pile* ran* back for a little distance to¬ ward the shore, bat the yap of wster to fullv 250 Tarda wide. Ibe wharf to simply aa island upon pile*. Thooe who know ear that it would have boon completed had it bo« been for numerous and crashing bereavement* and afflic¬ tions which prostrated the owner of the prop¬ erty. When wo were there some on* said that Mr. Raleigh himself was serioualy ill at Cbes- tertown, so ther* i* hat little probability of the toUnd becoming a wharf tbia While we attended to soppor I lo*t aa oppor¬ tunity to look at th* summer r**id*aoo of V. Sid L Wale* of thi* city. Th* captain *aid it to the prettiest place on" th* river or bay. It to situated about three mile* above Point Look¬ out, which W* roanded at aboat 6 JO. out nrro tbb bat. A littl* hag* on th* horizon clouded th* mb just a* it seemed to touch th* water's edge, and the orb of day reeembled a ball of almost blood- red fir*. Across th* now (lightly ruffled surface, in a line to the westward was a path of orimsoa glorv that was too dastling for any human eyes. To the southeast was a fleet of fishing schooners, filling their purse net* with alewives, from whose bodies the factories on the Great Wicom¬ ico extracted the essential oil. The white sails of a hundred vessels became grav in th* twi¬ light. deepened almost to black and then -faded out into tne nsutral tones of sky and ocean It was very besutiful. and I wae" enjoying it to my ntmoet capacity when Mothent*aA cam* up behind m* and broke the spoil bv saying: "I wonder who won th* gam* todav?" He was not the only man on board who wa* interested in base ball, for I came upon a knot of anxion* . ones a little ater who ware gravely discussing probabilities and players' averages. Then 1 captured the captain, and while h* left th* wheel to the tender mercies of Quartermaster* Robinson and Lewis, I mad* him tell me a few of the mauy choice personal experience* and reminiscences; that was a treat indeed. The captain is a modest gentleman, whose sol* duty seems to be the safety of his boat and the com¬ fort of hi* passengers. When the necessity ar¬ rive-* he can be the stern commander, as many a noisy or drunken passenger can testify, but as a rule he is suave and kindly and full of a natural desire to please everybody. Not to know Capt Qoeghegan is to be minus the acquaintance of one of the best of sailors and most amiable of men. For more thin thirteen year* he has commanded the Sue. and there has n*v*r been an accident on board that was due to poor sea¬ manship and bad management Shortly before 3 a.m. on Tuesday the Sue sidled up to her wharf in th* basin At Balti¬ more and the trip wa* over. BOOKS OF THE WEEK. TRAVEL, ADVENTTRE AND SPORT. From Hlaclcwood's Magazine. No. X. New York: White x Alien. Washington: v\ m. BaUantyn* & Son. AGNOSTICISM, and Other Essays. By Erxiim Fawcmt. with a Prologue by Robert O. ln- gersoll. New York: Beltord, Clarke A Co. TALE.-* FROM BLACKWOOD. 3d Series Hew York: White A Allen. Waahlngton: Wa. Bal- lantyne A Son. THE OLD SETTLER AND HIS TALKS OF 8COAR SWAMP. By Ko. Mott. New York: Bslford, Clarke £ Co. A BLIND BARGAIN. A Novel. ByK^MirHow* Fletcher. New York: Belford, Clarke A Co. MRS. MAYBRICK'S SENTENCE. It Will b« Commuted or She Will be Pardoned. The English home secretary Matthews and the experts in conference yesterday asaumed that Mrs. Maybrick was not guilty, and, acting upon this assumption, sifted every scrap of the testimony given, especially that in relation to the husband'* craze for arsenic, which is of great weight, and will, it is believed, turn the scale in the prisoner'* favor. It i* a noteworthy fact that the lord chancellor is seldom con¬ sulted in such cases except when a reprieve is meditated. The conference lasted four hours. It is regarded as a certainty that the home office is in doubt, and it is believed that the result of the deliberations must necessarily be a pardon or a commutation of sentence. The Press association states that Home Secretary Matthews will recommend to the oueen the commutation of death aentcnce of Mrs. May- brick to penal aervitude tor life, and that the commutation of sentence will be announced after the queen haa given formal assent. Eighty-eight members of the house of commons have signed the memorial in behalf of Mrs. Maybrick. WAXTH TO WBITB TO THI QrXIW. Mrs. Maybrick may be possessed of many de- tires, but one is pre-emiuent from morning till night. She entreat* to be permitted to write to the queen, but she ha* not been allowed to do so. She is but a wreck of her former *elf. Her attire is blue homespun and her food is the regular prison fare. Yesterday her mail con¬ tained 1.100 letters. None containing a refer¬ ence to the case arc given to her, so that she is not allowed to read many. The Baroness von Roque wanted to give her a peach yesterday, but was not permitted to do so. Accident to tbo Valkyrie. A special cablc telegram to the Philadelphia Timet says that the commodore's prise, a piece of plate worth £05, presented by the marquis of Exeter, was raced for yesterday around the Isle of Wight by ^he Valkyrie, Yarana. Irex, Wendur, Deerhound. Amphitrite. Mohawk. Stranger. Hyacinth and Samoina. Th* yacht* made for westward, the Irex leading. In mak¬ ing for the west channel the Valkyrie's bow¬ sprit snapped short and she returned to Cowes Roads. The Yarana finished first, Irex **cond, Deerhound third and Wedder fourth. Both Men Were Bit. It has Just been learned that a desperate duel was fought Thursday on the Spokane and Northern railroad, near Colville, W. T. The principals were Fred. Adams and John Ma- honey. Revolvers were the weapons used and each man emptied his pistol. Mahoney was mortally wounded and fell where he stood. Adorns received two bullet wounds in the body, but managed to mount his horse and ride away. A sheriff and posse of mouuted men have gone in pursuit of tne fugitive. Charles Dower, one of the fe# witnesses of the duel, received a wound in his shoulder from one of tb* wild shots. Traffic End of a Desperado. A tragedy was enacted yesterday 10 mile* northeast of Jackson, Tenn. Hoary Pre wit, aa ex-cowboy from Texas, shot his young wife through the neck, inflicting a fatal wound, wounded his mother-in-law, and then shot him¬ self through the head, dying instantly. A war¬ rant was out for Prewit's arrest for moonshin- ing, snd he was endeavoring to induce his wife to accompany him to Woakly county, which she refused to do. owing to ill-health. Peewit was a desperate character, and boasted to his wifs that he had bqen married four* time*, and had killad one wife and three or four men. Tb* couple had been married bat four months. Wm. T. Coleman of California last weak sold his large mining interests in Shasta county, CaL, to an English syndicate for #2.000.000. The property include* sixty mines, among them the valuable Niagara. The now owner* will work the mi no* in a thorough man nor. William Tr.nnor, th* highwayman who bald up Broker Lo«b ia the latter'* oSce on Broad¬ way, New York. and fired a shot which mtooed him. was ssntraoed to fifteen y*ar* and six months in prison. The Ancient Order of < convention in St Paul, having separated fraa the parent order in England, to now preparing a new constitution. J. W. Lewis and Laura 8wile* were lashed by white eaps ia Marion countv, S.C., sad the man .up to a Ire* until be was Marly dead. Samuel W. Renault, i . killed near Birmingham, Ala., Tborsdav, to Mid to have been a nephew of Altea a. Tburman. He wa* from Paducah. Ky. Two mea were killed durin* a riot which ae- curred at a ptenie Bear Wheeling, W. Ta., yes¬ terday. The Brazilian bmO steamer AlHanse, wMk tb* three commissioners who hat* beea .-¦ a* delegates te npreeeat Snail at (toeI POWDER Absolutely Pure. ThU rowJar Mm nn«. A >*n«l .trentflh. anJ wholeenmenaea. Mor> ". and ouaiitWM tSTABLISHSD 100 VIAH. IB INTERNATIONAL AWARDS. PEARS* SOAP Tta Pur* (I. Ho«( Economical u< tad .f ALL SOAPL CP AIL JIJMSTS, JOT UPAS Of ! to ana national Award of 16.600 tr QUINA-LAROCHE AH UYI0O&ATIIIO T0X10. (OST*I>l>H PERUVIAN BARK, IRON, PURE CATALAN WINE. Par the PRETENTION u4 (TU mt Malaria, Indi^estiM. Fever 4 Apie. list if appetite, Poorness of Blood, Neiralgia, k tt Rae L FOUOERA 4 00.. Arata for thaU.l* SO NORTH « ILUAX ST.. H. T. THE GLORY OF MAN STRlNbTH VITALITY! IQiOW THYSELF, -jirntcL A Scientific and Standard Popular L the Error* of Youth, Premature Incline. and Phvrtcal lability, lmpurltle*of tbe Blood, EX H AU ST E D VITALITY .f Untold Miseries Reauiliug from Folly, Vice, Imoranee. K» Overtaxation, Enervating and untitling the vU4l» lor Work, Biieim**, the Married or Social KalaOoa. Avoid anakllful pretendera Poaeeea thla great Work. It rontalna S»i page*. royal *».. Baeutlfal blading, emboaaed, full gilt. Price, only $l.*0 by mail, poatpavd concealed In plain w rapper, lilna- tratlve rroepectea Free. If vou apply now. The dlatingutahed author, Win II Parker, M D , re¬ ceived the COLO AND JEWfLLED MKDAL from tft* National Nteecai Aaooolation. for the PRIZE ESSAY on NERVOUS antf PHYSICAL DEBILITY. I>r Perker aad a eorpa of Aaalatant Phyalrlana may be coaaLlted. eoofi. denttally, by atail or tn ixraon, al the efflce of THE PKABODV MF.UICAI. INSTITUTE. No. 4 Bulflnch St., Ho.ton. Maea., to whom all order* for booka or letter* for advice ahould be directed aa above. tti>4-a.tu.Ui C/ONTINI ATlON Or H. A. SELIGKOV8 20 PEB CENT bEMOVAL SALE ef PCRE WISES AND EIQt ObS la BotUea and Deiuljvliiia At 62« 12TB ST. $ W. NEAR P. Before I remove to in) uew building uu the rvraet of 12th and H-ni.ayivania ave 11 « . uu ur alwul (h tuUrr 1,1 want tu reduce in\ iiunienae >tu k of t uiwirii ..uj American » uiaa and Liquor*. bow 'l enl in tour ware house* in Uii* city and one Ui liaiuuun. to the vwy lowest minimum. PEE Ash COUPABE MT PKICE8 WITH TBOSE UP OTHEbS. Orunnal BedureA CAIJFORXIA WINES. In.-ea price per ual. per uaL Claret, extra quality 41 uu 40 mi buryundy 1 Ml Angelica 1 UO Mnecatel .. 1 n# sherry' (Golden or Pale 1 Ml Sherry " " extia old 2 UU Port 1 :>o Port, extra old ~ OO Hock KieaUng Brandy Braady, very old brandy, very, very old 10 00 Champagne, quart a, docc-n 12 00 Chamiairn*, plnta. 0 duieu 13 00 1 OO 1 00 JuO OO wo ft KO ifl so - S *0 4 UO 10 40 VIRGINIA AND OlHLb AMERICAN WINKS. Virginia Claret 1 00 Noriou'a \irginia Seedlinx. i-er dozen 4 00 Oenuiue North Carolina bcupper- noug 1 SO (A de iclou* wine. > Sweet Catawba tdneat quality) 00 1 60 IMPOBTED WINES AND CobPIALS. Port.u.mhI Table.. Port.Good Cooking Port.Bunruady Port.Ola London Dock.. 4 UU 2 .*K) 5 OO ti UU 2 50 Sherry.Cooking-Good.. Sherry.Good Table 4 UU sherry.Duff Gordon 0 U0 Sherry.Amontillado ' Genuine bay Kuin, old Genuine bay hum. very old...... Jamaica Bum, old Jamaica Bum. very old St Croix bum, old St. Croix Hum. very old Old ltcdlord bum (excellent lor so 4 00 b uu 6 OO « UO (HI 6 U0 cooaingi. Did Holland Gin Miite Slat Gin Anchor Gin Old by* Malt Gin Old Tom Gin Scotch Whiaky, old Scotch Wluaky, very old Scotch Wnlaay, very.very old 3 .*>0 5 U0 6 00 « UU 4 U0 ti UO fi uo 7 60 10 00 Iriah Whiaky. old 6 00 Iriah * hiaky, very old T iO ¦ >t8 Irtah Wluaky. very, v cry oid German Koiriren brantaeiu AESO THE FOLEOWING DO¬ MES lie WHl&IUbS: TrimUe Pure Bye Mubuceilo Pure by*. Perfec tion Pure Eye. Uanmaville Pure b)e Old Kentucky Sour Kaah. Cotfnac brandy, Kartell. tkaruac Brand) Coffuac. otard Coiuac. Seivuette. 3 2b 1 SO 3 20 .J U0 4 WO hS «>fo 4 00 « 00 a 20 4 00 4 00 « so 3 SO 4 00 if9 4 *! S « I i£pih r Maah ' y, Aarteli i y, Henneaa) A Co.. ' In Demi Duyny k Co f Bottlaa, ette 1 Per Dot. DetnUohaa m Bottlaa, vary lew. DemUohaa m vary low. Per Doa. 3 UO .2 %b -2 S a 00 23^ 2 00 Bitter*. Wild Cherry-Harter*'.. * U' SV Vermouth 12 00 S Anroetura 12 00 V 00 CObDIAES. Per bottle. Per bottle, Cfcaltreuae. Velloa.uiiart.- 43 uu .* 40 Green .qua t 4 00 8 SO 1 allow-pinta X 00 Graao t*ata tl.Berlin I na.lan ....... Maraachino A ham the Cnracoa.bed or White BeuedicUne.qu. ru 3 I pint* Cherry Cordial. Cherry Bounce 1 00 "lUaj berry syrtip vft ialtaar Water.ui quart m«a 16 Per Do*. BCBOCNDT-Ga bottle* only), bottle*. Jlacoa.... Bint. 15 00 Chaaibartia- X» Mt IB SU Chablia-White. 14 OO 12 00 KHi IN W EI> ES.(in bottlaa only). LalhenhaUMr.. S 00 T 00 Niereteiuer 10 00 IM loohhriiaer. 11 0U b 00 >odaah«imar 11 00 w oo 'jatdahatu er V U0 ? uO LrhacSer IK 00 10 OS Partiaa roinir to tEe < .iuntry may leeva thatr oiiaM 'or ahipmeLt, which will be promptly . mSH la. I. A. SEEIOSOH. THE WINE ABD LIQtOB MEBCHAPT. aa-wAa-G bJO 12th at. p w . near McMmnrt or opium of the dn« by ' while the w retHaiA lti

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Page 1: The Evening star.(Washington D.C.) 1889-08-17 [p 11]. · sleep wa* dreaml*** aad undisturbed until werwachedAbell'* wharf, whioh isin th*cot* *s route to Leonardtown. I knew it wa*

FROM SHORE TO SHORE.

A TRIP TO BALTIMORE BY BOAT.Odd People and Places in Mary¬

land and Virginia, Sketchedby a Star Reporter.

HERE are many way*by which those who de-

^ "T 0 *ir* to visit the city of/ Baltimore may accom-

pli*h their object. Two

PQII] railroad* provide num-

* erou* and inexpensiveopportunities every day

w in the year; an eqae*-* trian enthusiast may go

over on horseback; the bicyclist is at lib-arty to wrestle with a not too satisfactory high¬way for the forty miles which separate the twociti**. and the pedestrian can make a pilgrim¬age to or fro without let or hindrance, exceptsuch as t* furnished by the mud. which duringthis summer has had no opportunity to dry up.But to the seeker after rest and recreation.the mortal to whom a few hours' time is of no

particular consequence.there is a much bet¬ter way. Go via the Potomac and Chesapeakebay. Lots of people go that way now and ifthe public geuerally knew how much of thepleasant and healthful is to be found in thetrip there would be crowded boats all the time.Everybody in Washington either knows orought to know all about the Potomac from thecity down to Colonial Reai'h, but when thesteamer's bow plows the bracki«h waters southof that resort and ae^ks the green and brinydepths there ar>> comparatively few who haveany but vague ideas as to the character of thewaters beyond and whose eves have re¬flected the beautiful scenery wnich fringes theshores of the lower Potomac. It so happensthat there is only one boat which affords op¬portunities to eujoy these pleasures, and it wason her deck.for the steamer Sue must be ofthe feminine gender.that I stood last Sundayafternoon and wntcBed the preparations whichwere being made for departure. Stephenson'swharf was crowded, principally with colored

P*0P»*..and to any one who knew no better itS2yE£25JJ? VM2S5T£,**er*ioin» * " e'# The *en«.re'om*ov.gers going to some of the lower landing.were instantly the central figures in a doz/nFTO A depart,ng mother waaNUrroMded

* dozen of her children and their e>mPanions, and before she was relcL d inn i?"lowed to go on board she wJ k^Td 4nd

* "

teeJer^re1'^ °Q the b°<" .*«-"We?toZnZrg, enacted- Farewell mes-

froni which return wai improbable ThonWe'- again. tbeTowd* rushe^for the'

KcK ¦iito',tSre^offwh?id °tei,wer

of hundred colored fnlka on' the wharf °w«vJhftnd shouted their adieus to tK« ?

colored peopled b£Erepresented on the Sue bv aboat flff*

.xcur.iomsu, and it did not ^7more than'acursory glance to show that thev were of th«»

^ *bict knows how to£ned ^ tbrD A"*" wh0 are e'ther bur-in i \ oatentauous wealth or are loidin the declaration of their satisfying covertvThey were well-to-do sociable folk's, an! to this

whichaDttenededa^euTph °' ^ pleMUre

i'** ftrs«sli

therj were pasaen^erw I hpheve there was a .light «r^Ks^ngeTVoidedn^m8,"nal a"d could Tave beenr.rcr£bed min o^f UPr°'T,deii ,"i»«»f«2busy time from the start for there JbeZZ" '^7 and n,UBerous docnm nu to

fcfSS^a'ndS At

were ImS^?i. passengers Mid freight

great .hipping point tor Cli.rl*. countv ¦niale passenger was added to the list. If Liver¬pool point was only decorated with anew wharf

«iidSHVSST'M ""' """. «

¦rwn.Supper wa* an institution which eaptnred the

crowd, and at 6 o'clock the cabin deck was

practically deserted. There were a few spoon¬ing couple# who preferred, however, to wait

Bv'ffoodT ° wUld eat. in COIUParative solitude.

SS^sssssrssuKt:a£«atts ..sa *J°i'i " iu.?r °f

5../.sr.Vi't. ..

tage in being where the c.nZ , .adv,n'

7CamUhtOTm* 0t l^ie or^lu"rilyelu(itve waitedsStSHSSiSS

rtion .r our ubJe occupied by a nartvofIt.morgans, who were makinir the n ... i V

.. guest, of Mr. James K.®Sr a wen ^knowEbu-u.es. man in the Monumenul c'tv and

do more forUthe''U,e of humaniivore lor the general welfare of full... r...J

.xUgnt t(tlU,n d'd th*** pooU people, unless we

capuun. He. of courie sat at thohead of,he board, and it is no, too much £>«y

he -a grace before meat.""

SnOBT a*D SLtMBCS,

.n 1 /.Knpprr th*r" wa* calnj- The forward

.nd of the «.oon d^-k waa the favorite resting

takTw^ ber! th® ma)orl,-v ttt conversed

Saft as tr- , 7itthlD* ^ of othercraft aa they fluted tnrough the neutral tint of

jpproaching night, looking Uke Marine pW.oma. 1 be bnM.,e-ruffled river was fuh ofdvmg hghu and deepening shadows; the long

¦aemed as though there was no outlet.due torirer" The moon came

which mm alW^h red',°r nthtr th- c'oadsUgmv* color,

thiaa"ehu - ^ h . P0"" aad Po'nt Mat-thr^. Wer® tir«t aighted, and for a while

.il co*r atato-w aieep, perchance to dream."

absl'i wuu.Numerous landing* war* mad* on the

Maryland side daring th* night, but mysleep wa* dreaml*** aad undisturbed untilwe rwached Abell'* wharf, whioh is in th* cot**s route to Leonardtown. I knew it wa*Abeil'* wharf a* soon a* I saw it because Mr.Douglas*, th* seoond ottcer. told me so and Ib*!i*v*d him, but i>*ith*r h* nor anJ on* *!*«

had to tell rae when w# reached Leonardtown.The identity of that antique.which look* ..though it had just been dug up by Dr. tichlie-niaun or Beckwith A Quackenboah. or tomeother of the world-reuownsd excavators.tusatisfactorily established by the legend "Leon¬ardtown, Md.." painted with white waterproofpaint (I won't tay whose) on ft roof of red. Assoon as the boat touched the venerable wharfwe went ashore. '-We," in thiscaee, meat* Mr.C. C. Mothsrsead of the Weetern Union offloein Waahington and myself of Tu Stab. Itwas one of thoae cool, bright, sunshiny mon-ing* which make any well-oalanoed man withhe did not haTe work, and, ae we had no pros¬pective toil for at least twenty-four hours, weenjoyed the occasion immensely. Up the old,winding road, with groves of magnificent tim¬ber on both sides of the way, we ascended tothe Tillage. We asked quite a number of peo¬ple who was the anthor of the place and weresurprised at the unanimity of their replies.1 hey all united in evading the responsibilityand in shifting it onto the shoulders of thesecond Lord Baltimore, who platted the subdi¬vision and sold lots as early as 1663. Some ofthe people who bought from that amiablo andlordly speculator have never been able to geteven on the expenditure up to the presenttime. When the hill had been climbed thefirst buildings to attract the attention of visitorswere those devoted to the collation and dis¬semination of news.the centers of looal Jour¬nalistic endeavor. The itt. Mary's Beacon,which is democratic, is in the same building asthe post office, although the mails are handledby a Republican postmistress.a strange com¬bination anywhere but in Leonardtown.whilefrom across the way and in a mora antiquestructure the St Mary's Enlerprine glares re¬

publican defiance from a sign evidently donelu chalk by some master hand. The impres¬sion of a stranger would probably betray himinto making a remark about the honesty of theresidents and their childish trustfulness as to,tr*-v Kuests, for on the Enterprise porch andin front of a number of dwellings were quite alarge assortment of chairs just in the samepositions ad they occupied the previous eveningwhen the caucus adjourned. In Washington,or in any other well-regulated citv, thosechairs would have been stolen, but in Leonard-town they were safe. I examined them atsnort range and cime to the conclusion thatunless Leonardtown can produce more con¬vincing testimony to its honesty than the fail¬ure to appropriate such wrecks of chairs it willforever be regarded with suspicion. The postoffice was casually inspected and approved of.Mothersead said he heard one of the earlyrisers ask the postmistress how long it woulilbe before the mail was distributed, and in re¬ply she said it would be late, because therewere so many postal cards this time. I pre¬sume he wanted ns to infer that all postal cardshave to be read to see whether there are anvexpressions on them which should preventtheir passage through the office and make thesender liable to the law.

H* TO UOXABDTOWff.The guileless people of this region practice a

good deal of unwitting deception on the pil¬grim who only makes a brief sojourn. At 60 clock in the morning the saloons (exceptthose attached to the two hotelsj'are all closed,but the general stores are all open. The saloonsunbar their front doors at 8 a.m. That wouldconvey the impression to the unsophisticatedstranger that Leonardtown was in the habit ofindulging in hardware and other non-intoxi¬cantsfos at least two hours previous to partak-ing of eye-openers. The impression is not afair one, for I was informed that the stores goto sleep at about 6 p.m.. after dozing and nod¬ding all day, while the saloons remain openuntil after midnight, so you see the balance oftime and of trade is with the saloons by a ma-Jority of four hours in every twenty-four. ThevraayU a little late starting in the morning,but the proprietors know that pretty nearlyeverybody g^t enough the night before to lastuntil 8 o clock. and then the bar tenders-hard-working men down there.must have alittle rest. Do you want to see an old-fash-n°n»e«f /i" D. t botel?J They've got at leastone of them at Leonardtown. Our little partventered it apparently unnoticed by the threeor four men who were hanging around, butthere was a boy there who eyed us suspiciouslyand whose most piercing glances seemed to bedirected at me. Then he recognized me, and1 knew in a moment that ray usefulness was

temporarily gone. That youngster, who was asfresh as saltless oatmeal porridge, evidentlywanted to prejudice the community against me,ror he proclaimed my occupation in a tone ofvoice that was several sizes larger than himself.So tar as tl\e hotel clerk was concerned his ef¬forts resulted in failure, for that functionarycame forward in a hurry and in a mysteriouswhisper asked me if I wouldn't -try some-

i j .t"anl'e<1 him, but declined. He van¬

ished almost instantaneously from our sightand we saw him no more. Subsequent inquirydeveloped the fact that he was not seriouslyinjured by my refusal, but the shock staggeredhim considerably. He recovered in a few

?** than * 0,00111 be had a some¬what similar experience, which started a cropof gray hair and loosened several front teeth.The president of one of the most comprehen¬sive of Washington's street railroad systemswalked into the hotel and called for a glass ofApo 11maris water. '

' 1ueried the combination clerkana D«tr tender."A glass of Apollinaris water," calmly re¬

peated the visitor.For fulfy half a minute the animated cork¬

screw gazed at the well-dressed and good-Iook-all<J then he B«*P«d out: "We

don t sell no water here."A TYPICAL HOTEL.

The hotel office was also the billiard room. Itwas a study for an archaeologist. The officechairs lacked backs and would undoubtedlyhave lacked seats had not those portions of thefurniture been originally hewn out of two-inchsolid walnut plank. That the proprietor wasor had bom,on good terms with the Congruss-X.hW"r'd,ent fr°m t,he """'J of literaturecou..Lg TtTik !LC°U,ple ,of Hhelvfc8 behind thecounter, lilack-bound volumes on commerceand navigation and numerous consular reportswere squeezed up in company with the learnedpublications of the bureau of education. Theywere in splendid condition, due probably to the

STS&ffiiSr'iMOt crprtc'u int^«LaoersA rli¦ h i ? pol'uC aud frmil.v story| , iTh ! ur0m b*"*nth "hose wingstruJr*lth .r U>ey were stuffed pro-. r' V, F, * ra»c 10 » dingvht.nJ .i

I,cture* wer« numerous wd badlyhung; they were generally highly-colored reo-resentations of fast horse*. although a few £f

uin which gorae-

occuni rmOWer' or'freshing machine

occupied the foreground to the exclusion of'

»billiard table was a de¬

lightful specimen of its kind; the species is'IrifrV use had broken utT the»aniB n!

lU dark Kreen »orf»ce, and agame plaved upon it was one of those uncertain

for~» H L®utco®® ot »hich no mortal can

cttruvr i* *TmJ f 7 * of chaooe" ln OQOcorner is a long rip tn the moth-eaten cloth,»«1 i 2*0ud Lord Baltimore when hewas endeavoring to astonish the natives with amasse shot.the first ever seen in Maryland.

Mourrao ABLtrrtoHs.Glancing oat of ths rsar window we mw a

r»ther stylishly-dressed colored girl perform¬ing her morning ablutions. Ths Leonardtownwater works are possibly out of order, and itis more than orobablo that there was no waterin the young lady's chamber, so she came downto ths pump to wash. She was eomnlstalvArrayed and had a couple of bri*ht-hued rib-bons around hsr neck. With one

*

££ ud 'with' the other

fifteen drop* of the cold (laid at her connto*¦¦.co. Then the (hook her her head three orfour time* and went about her autiee.washedclean.

8ii passenger* cam* np to the hotel from thewharf on the hotel coacb. and the male* of theparty evidently imagined it waa cold, for theybad their hata palled down over their eye* anatheir ooat oollara ware tamed ap.

HOW TUT DKIKK.Leonardtown ha* no indostrie*, *o I waa in¬

formed by one of the native*, and when I aakedhim what the people did there he laid-. "Well,we drink mar* whiaky and play card* morepersistently than any other community inMaryland.' Onee in a great while a native get*hold of a drink that i* too mnch for him. Aliquor-hardened old darkey who hannta thewbarfwhen the boat i* there and watche*eagerly for an opportunity to capture a swal-uw or *°l more than he calculated on.Me made a atnmp speech to a number of theEjTeDK?r® aa<' WM rewarded by one of themwith a thirst producer that made the old man'aeye* sparkle before he tossed it down. TheyP°n »drink at Leonardtown; thev Just throw itinto the orifice and taate it a* it trickles downinto the lower system. The mixture given theorator was composed of aboat three fingerseach of whisky and Jamaica ginger. When hehad gulped it down he sat on the sand and triedto breathe, but the boat was well out into theriver before be succeeded. The next time theSue came around the old man sought out Capt.

*,n, him what kind or adrink that gentleman had given him.tain

genuine old rye," said the cap-"Doan want no m& ole rye" the sufferer

ejaculated; "pine Juice good nuff foh me. Din.!{} Yuz dronk foh three days an1didn t git up from de wl»'f all 'at night Doanwant no mo ole rye."

1 ankee pnsb ft what Leonardtown needs.Jiatnre seems to have done everything for theplace and if it was in the north it would be oneof the principal summer resorts. It is healthyand has every natural advantage, but it lacksthe get-up-and-dust spirit which is at the bot¬tom of true success.

Breakfast filled up a good deal of the intervalbetween Leonardtown and Pmev Point, wherethe boat arrived Jnst before 9 a.m. The Pointis quite pretty this Season and rejoices innumerous brilliantly white buildings. severalnags and a large assortment of trees with whitewashed trunks. Several of the prettv girls whoare stopping at the hotel came out to greet thefew new arrivals and to smile at those whowere unfortunately booked through to Balti¬more Here, as at all other landings, thesteamer received a good deal or freight. Thebulk of the cargo snipped from Pinev Pointwas tobacco; it was in home-made hogsheads,which contain from 600 to 800 pounds each.* he tobacco business as conducted in this partor Maryland is. as Dundreary so truthfully andso frequently renincped of other matters, "oneof those things wMch no fellah can And out."Everybody in all (ne region round about knowsthat it does not pay to raise the weed, but theykeep on doing ft ju«t aa regularly as thoughthere waa a fortune in every season1* crop.

A TOPICAL FARMER.I have an unfortunate way of poking mv nose

into other people'* business, and I was boundto And out why men who are apparently sanewill insist on sinking themselves and theirfarms in a slough of mortgages which ulti¬mately must swallow up so many homesteads;so I drew a vouug farmer into conversation on'the subject and found him to be a most intelli¬gent and delightfully frank specimen of hisclans. He had some tobacco on board whichwas being taken around to Baltimore to be sold.It was a poor grade, he said, and he did notexpect to realize more than 1^ cents a pound.He acknowledged that this was a low figure buthe was not a bit unhappv. -All we want,'' saidhe, "is a comfortable living, and that the mostof us get. We raise a little corn or wheat, afair quantity of vegetable*, and a gooddeal of fruit, and with the exception ofthe fruit, most of it is only for consumption athome. The river provides ns with solid mate¬rial for breakfast, dinner and supper.all thefish and oysters anybody wants.and what to¬bacco we raise provides us with about enoughmoney to buy guano for the next year and per¬haps to pay the interest on a mortgage or two.If you can afford to hirj lots of labor then voncan raise a superior grade of tobacco, but thereis no money even in that. I know a man whohas a big family of boys, ail bard workers-they are doing very well and 1 reckon they arelaying up money. If our land didn't need somuch fertilizer we might make a living off to¬bacco or wheat, but with low prices tor bothproducts, distant markets and heavy guauobills we are like the frog in the well, whoclimbed up one foot during the day and shooedback two feet each night."

THE COSCLC9IOW.During the day I talked with a number of

natives on the boat and on both the Marylandand \ irgima shores. There was only one con¬clusion to come to when the evidence was allin. and that was that the country iv in a worsecondition today than it was ten years ago.Large tracts of land are held bv people whowill neither rent nor sell and who are com-pelled to work at some trade or profession inorder that they may be able to pav the taxes ontheir holdings. There is less activity and morewhisky on the Maryland side than in Virginia,but neither of the shores are prospering as theyought. Very few of the me-j are there who willnot forsake the little work they may happen tohave on hand to participate in a game of cardsWoe betide the stranger who allows himself tobe drawn in, for while he may be smartenough to hold his own with oue opponent heis helpless as a babe in the hands of three ex¬perts who are being aided and abetted by allthe bystander*.

mcjsdat'b pointwas the first place on the Virginia side touchedby the Sue after leaving Piney Point; in factit was the first Virginia port entered sinceAlexandria was left behind. The point is a lowbut picturesque place. Where L. W. Courtneybaa bis business headquarters. Mr. Courtneyl* refreshingly enterprising; he deals exten¬sively in fish and oysters and has a largegeneral store. The Columbia fishing club ofWashington has a house near thepoint and for the past fifteen year* theclub i enthusiasts have visited this spot to fishThis year those members of the club who canget awav will go down to their favorite groundou the first Sunday in September. Everybodyin the vicinity of the national capital has heardof Monday'* Point oysUrs, and. of course,everybody will be very sorry to hear that thevare rather scarce this year. Over the oysterbeds up Yeocomico creek went the Sue, andafter a devious trip, which kept the captainat the wheel, she sidled up to thewharf at Lodge Landing. Leaning gracefullyagainst the store house on the wharf was a col¬ored girl, who ia known as the -Sue's' angel.It may be raining cats and dogs, or there maybe a heavy thunder storm in progress, or thesnow may be tilling the air witn its fleecy chil¬liness, but the "augel" never misses the boat.

fe- ¦*

blic is always there and in Just about the oneattitude. She walks on board as though sheexpucted to meet some one. glides around inher No. 11 gait rs. and then returns to the ad¬mirable obscurity which is afforded by the lo¬cality in which she resides. At this port wewere deprived of the society of a couple of col¬ored female*, who, in all the glory of Hadingveils anil yellow slipper*, had condescended toCrIBt jOWU from Washington for the purposeof inflicting Uiemselves upon some of theirhelpless bucolic relatives, l'hev were met onlanding by a fourteen or fifteen-year-old col¬ored bov who looked supremely uncomfortablein a full suit of good clothes and a pair ofheavy shoe*, lie shouldered their trunk andtook it np to an ox-cart which stood in theroad, then he came back for them and theirvalises. Under his escort the giggling visitorsapproached the ancient vehicle with cries of"Is that our cab?" ''What a nice hack!" 4c.y'l'l' ?u their baggage, they were dex¬uberate|y driven toward their summer resort.A great deal of freight was taken on at Lodge.

1 here were peaches, sweet potatoes, chicken*,ducks, P'gs. and a calf for the Baltimore mar¬ket*. rhe calf deserve* especial mention be¬cause he caused more trouble in the loadingthan all the other stuff put together. A coupleof heavy boxes, addressed to Major E. H.r> A °' tlje division of supplies in th«Poet Office department, contained cancelingstamp*, for it i* at thi* place that Mr. B.Chamber*, the contractor for the supply ofthese stamp*, has his factory. vv 3

end of i couple of old wharf stringer* wnre pio-tureaque objects In the Uudiotp* on the returntrip between Lodge Landing and Monday'sPoint. They did not, however, attract aa muohattention aa did a boat load of oolored rirla whowere evidently endeavoring to delude them-.elvee into the belief that they were enjoyingtbemselvee in one of thoee *lim tailing craftwith which theee water* abound. Monday'*Point wai toon paseed. but instead of nukingout toward the river Capt Oeoghegan turnedthe Sue'* aoee inland again, and inn little whilethe flailing village of Kinsale waa visible to thenaked eye. 8eated peacefully in an old punt,intent on their fishing linea, were two coloredfolka, one male 'tother female. By and by thetteamer'a awell insinuated' itaelf under theshallop'* quarter.or rather under one cornerof the thing.and then the scene became *ud-Vcnly animated. No livee were loet, but therecame floating on the breeze objurgatory aoundathat were probably profane in their origin andunparliamentary in their tenor.

ths woxDcnrui. kik*aiji nosrxrjtT.The boat stopped nt Kinsale for nearly an

hour, eo lota of the paaaengeri got off andtramped around to enjoy the icenery and to.py out the land generally. The flrit objectwhich enlist* the attention of the tourist is abig sign in front of a little frame shanty, andon the sign is that fateful combination ofwords, "bar room." There is nothing tempt¬ing in the appearance of the interior, to Idon't think it capturedS single paaaenger. Thegreater portion of Kinsale stands npon a highhill, and in the center of the settlement areseveral dozen cords of firewood and Uardwick'shotel. The hotel is the curiosity of the place,and whoever visits the neighborhood withoutlooking at that hostelry will miss much. Howold the building is no ono knows. The memoryof the oldest inhabitant reaches back for sev¬eral generations, but the hotel was one of thefirst things on which his fond recollection fast¬ened itaelf. Judged by the curled shingles on itsroof it is at least one hundred years old, and anaddition which was tacked on to it during theMexican war looks comparatively young. Whenwe called the premises were guarded on theother side by a blind old dogwho was tied up in the yard. Noone disputed our right to enter, so wewent into what had once been the hotel bar¬room, aud my first impression was that somedelirious and whisky-soaked scene painter hadtransferred his awful visions to the walls of theapartment. Staring at us from the wall oppo¬site the front doorway was George Washington,looking extremely ungraceful aud uncomforta¬ble on a horse who was standing on one hindleg while the other described ail odd-lookinggesture in the imaginary air. The combat be¬tween the monitor and the Morrimac was de¬picted on another side wall; the boiler-platerocks, rivets and all complete, were admirablydono in all sorts of impossible hues. Then therewas a beautifully green landscape alongside thekitchen door in which everything was as far re¬moved as possible from anything like the im¬pressionist school. In the only dark corner inthe room was another life-size picture of a manon horseback. The man's features were a crossbetween those carried around by Tom Ochil¬tree and the well-known trade mark on a leaguebaseball. The horse was evideutly modeledafter one of the wonderful specimen*to be found in this benighted region.I noticed that the host remained inthe kitchen while the members of ourparty were criticizing the productions froman artistic standpoint, and supposed that someof our opinions aid not coincide with his.

THE ARTISTIC TRAMP.The truth came out later, and in the follow¬

ing legend we found the reason for his persist¬ent absence. Once upon a time, as the storybooks say, a tramp painter.a painter by trade.made his appearance at Kinsale and secureda room and consumed board at Mr. Hardwick'*,which is the only inn in the village. The trampwas well clad aud was oily of tongue, so hedid not have much difficulty in persuading hishost that his object in coming to Kinsale wasthe building and putting into active operationof a toy factory. One thing alone preventedhim from starting the enterprise immediatelyand that was lack of funds. He was a Col. Mul¬berry Selieni. this fellow, and into theope* ears of the populace he pouredtales of the great prosperity whichshould come to Kinsale when the toy factoryw;is at work; there was "millions in it." Forthree weeks the preparations (which consistedprincipally in borrowing various sums of moneyfrom the natives) went stesdiiv on. and tow hile away the hours and show his ability thealleged artist decorated the room as we saw it.Then matters were so far advanced that he de¬cided to go to Washington to bring therefromhis wife and children. To make this tripmoney was needed, and tho kindly-heartedHardwick advanced him a sufficient sum. andthen, in order that he might reap some benefitfrom the excursion, Hardwick proposed to the

Eainter that he take with him a valuable youngorse to sell til Washington. To this proposi¬

tion the tramp"<Juietly agreed. Neither he northe horse, nor the money have been seen byany oue from Kinsale since the day of his de¬parture for the capital city. Can any onewonder at Mr. Hardwick's sadness of expres¬sion or at his preference for staying away whilewe were in the room.

A FORLORN ANIMAL.Going back to the boat Mr. Wheeler discov¬

ered one of the most miserable-looking speci¬mens of horseflesh it was ever my lot tobehold, hitched to a two-wheeled vehicle ofa genus not known. The harness which aidedthe shafts in supporting the horse was com¬

posed of all the materials (save and exceptleather) that human ingenuity could seek out.We looked for the man or bov whose consciencewould allow him to ask that horse to "get up,"but he was missing.probably drinking whiskydown at the wharf, while his starving steed wastearing the Itraw stuffing out of its collar in avain endeavor to satisfy an appetite that waslarge enough to accommodate two bushels ofoat* and 41 pounds of hay; to say nothing ofcorn and chopped feed.

DINNER AND COAN RIVERcame at about the same time, but what we lostin scenery (for we were on the sunny side ofthe boat and the blinds of the dining saloonwere closed) was more than compensated for invictuals. At Coan wharf a number of passen¬gers got on, some of them Washingtonians, andthere were many boxes of peaches and lots ofother freight stowed away on the lower deck.Cowart's wharf addeda little to tho load audthen the boat was he/tded for Lewis' wharf.Just as she approached within two orthree hundred yards of it there were twoboys on the wharf; one large, oue small. Therewas a brief struggle, ft splash, aud then the bigboy was alone; the little one, clothed and all,was in the water. He did not seem to mindthe ducking, but swam easily and swiftly to aboat which was near and ciimbed in. Some¬body said he was a Washington youngster,whose folks are summering in the vicinity.Lewis, who owns the wharf, is a busy man.Ho controls 3.000 acres of oyster beds leased tohim bv the Virginia legislature. He pays 9800annually as rent and his taxes amount to t700more, so it is no wonder that ho objects to theoyster pirates dredging over his property. Hehad several warm fights with them last springand has secured a number of indictmentsagainst the pirate kings.

We had i good deal of fun with ono ladywho, after furtively endeavoring to scratchher back by rubbing it against various projec¬tions, was foroed to defy modern etiquette byclawing at the itching region with tier goodright hand. She excused herself by informingthe amused onlookers that she had been visit¬ing a friend in Washington whoso house waetemporarily plagued with fieaa. She hadbrought attoast one away with her.

ACSOM THE FQTOMAGonce more to where tho narrow foreshore*,with their beaches of white sand, are in p'»'»?isw, looking, very probably, jut aa they didto Lord Baltimore and hi* follower* when theywent up the St. Mary'* river in " boat*.The timber wa* more dense in thooe day*, andthere were fewer field* of com, but the land¬scape has not changed much in two oenturie*and a halt Tho stream is jut a* sinuous andlust aa pretty. Bight at the month of 81Inigo's creek we named Fort Point In Mmggod old ooionial dag* there wa* » fort hare,and it had gun* in it The drag lappet

the bank* gradually, sad in the course of timethe guns were washed into the itream. FatherCarberry had them dragged to the surface andon to dry Land again, and now the four ancientcannon.each long as a fence rail, it is said.make warlike the appearance of the court yardof Georgetown college.On Prieet'i Point, about a mile farther Inland,

are a number of good building*, the moetprominent being the large structure in whichthe young Jesuits hold a three-week*' retreat.Tory rammer. In thia region the Jeenite ownover seven thousand acres of the choicest flarm-iag land In this part of Maryland.

Loao aaLTmoax's laxdixo.Smooth steaming through waters that had

not a ripple on their surface until vexed by theboat Soon brought as to the place wheretradition says was the spot on which the firstLord Baltimore first set foot in the newoountr/. A green point Jute into the creek Anweet side ana in one place the fringe of timberis broken by a little inlet. That is the place;and from there the party of explorers is said tohave walked up to tne site of St. Mary's City.The site is still there and can be seen by anyone who doubts ths truthfulness of this simplenarrative. Lots may bs purchased cheap andon long time. At Priest's Point therewas some freight put off and a little

taken on. Late, but still in time tocakh the boat was an old barefooted, dilapi¬dated and dirtv specimen of the poor whitefarmers of St. Mary'a. He was acting as driverand conductor for a yoke of nice-lookingsteer*, who were trotting down the sandy roadwith a huge hogshead of tobacco in the cart.The load was speedily dumped by a couple ofmuscular mon. but they were not cautious, forin their exuberance they came within a fewnails of destroying what was left of the wharf.A calf and a'lustv three-year-old steer weresuccessively rushed up the' gang plank aftermuch tail-twisting and wearisome endeavor.Quitea number of brightly-cladcolored childrenplayed around the store house, snd one young¬ster who wasn't clad in anything worth men¬tioning dabbled in the water and fooled with a

large assortment of crabs which he hud justcaptured.Rosecroft is the name of the place where the

revenue collector lived in the days of the firstLord Baltimore and although the collector'sfamily must have suffered considerably fromthe attacks of mosquitoes their home was beau¬tifully located. A modern farm-house occu¬pies the site of the abode of him who sat at thoreceipt of custom; it is a pretty place and couldbe made much more so.

at bt. mart's citta dozen of us went ashore to view the remains.It was a hurried trip aud was undertaken withfelonious intent. Mr. Wheeler, who was theleader in all expeditions of a piratical nature,suggested that we go up to the old church¬yard and secure each a piece of the mulberrytree uuder which Lord Cocil Culvert sat in ahigh-backed old oak chair at a mahoganytable when he signed a treaty with the Indiansof Southern Maryland. His lordship made al¬most as good a bargain as William Penn didwith the unsuspecting redskins further north.We found the church and the churchyard butthere was no tree. Where was it? Diligentsearch resulted in the discovery of one of theoriginal Ethiopian settlers. He informedus that the mulberry tree was "duntook up to de chu'ch so some of dem tooristscu'dn't chop it up," but he escorted us to thespot where it used to be and was up to less thana vear ago. Tho place is marked by a stone.Tne only other center of interest in the vicinitywas the St. John's academy for young ladies.Several of the fair pupils saw fit to smile at usfrom a distance (something they wouldn't havehad they come closer) and several members ofour crowd were in the act of returning thecompliment with leers of various sizes and de¬scription* when Capt. Qeoghegan, who evi¬dently imagined we could be better employed,pulled the string which starts the whistle.Then we scaled a high fence and dropped downinto the road, which, it may be casually men¬tioned. was jarringly and unexpectedly de¬pressed. St. Mary's City is years old andis small for its age.Barely visible from tho steamer, because it

was away out of our course, was the islandwhich Capt. Howgate bought not very longbefore his somewhat hasty departure fromWashington. He named it TippitywitchitrIsland and used to have great times thereon.Son a Scotch gentleman.a Mr. Stevens.andhis family occupy it and are happy all the yearround.

A USELESS WHARF.Near the landing at St. Mary's City was a

wharf which had and which probably still hasa most forlorn and deserted appearance. It isthe tide-water terminus of the Southern Mary¬land and Point Lookout railroad company.From this place a regular line of steamer* wereto run direct to France. Building the wharfcaught a good many of the farmer* who had alittle money to spare, but it will strike somepeople as a rather odd thing to build a wharfat a prospective railroad terminus when not asingle tie had been laid down on any part ofthe route. More than one man's life went outstormily and disastrously because of stock in¬terests in that "air" line."This is Bacon's wharf," said First Officer

Simmonds in answer to my inquiry as we drewup to a ricketty old structure on our -way outto the bay. How are the mighty fallen? Inthe early days this place was Portobelle,and at its water-front bluff-bowed Europeanmerchantmen took on board cargoes of tobaccoand other native product*. Here is the old"rolling road" down which were rolled thethousands of tobacco hogsheads which wereannually exported.

At 5:30. not far from the mouth of the StMary's river, the Sue stopped and took onboard a party of Baltimore-English people whohad been camping out on St. George's Island.One of the partv was a lively young fellow whodid everything he could to keep his companionsawake. He made a couple of caricaturesketches of unwitting passengers, but did notdream that my lynx-eye and pencil were re¬cording his shape for publication. I caughthim, plaid suit, cap, sketch-book and all.Then we went out into the Potomac, at thiaplace fullv 10 miles wide. Looking toward thetho Maryland shore the scene was one of rarebeauty, the almost horisontal rays of sunlighthaving . most striking effect on the home-dotted landscape. A long strip of yellow sandrelieved the multi-tints of green in the tide,turf antimber. Few places appear more at¬tractive . than Calvert's bay, which curvesgracefully from Kitt's Point to Gray's Point,while a pretty stream with an ordinary name.Smith's Creek.flows out from ite center.

unless it hns sinoe Un eoaapleted. tt to stillodd. The builder commenced at the outer endIrst ud when enoagh pile* had beeu driven onwhich to pat down on* or two hundredsquare feet of flooring he stopped. A doablerow of pile* ran* back for a little distance to¬ward the shore, bat the yap of wster to fullv250 Tarda wide. Ibe wharf to simply aa islandupon pile*. Thooe who know ear that it wouldhave boon completed had it bo« been fornumerous and crashing bereavement* and afflic¬tions which prostrated the owner of the prop¬erty. When wo were there some on* said thatMr. Raleigh himself was serioualy ill at Cbes-tertown, so ther* i* hat little probability of thetoUnd becoming a wharf tbiaWhile we attended to soppor I lo*t aa oppor¬

tunity to look at th* summer r**id*aoo of V.Sid L Wale* of thi* city. Th* captain *aid it tothe prettiest place on" th* river or bay. It tosituated about three mile* above Point Look¬out, which W* roanded at aboat 6 JO.

out nrro tbb bat.A littl* hag* on th* horizon clouded th* mb

just a* it seemed to touch th* water's edge, andthe orb of day reeembled a ball of almost blood-red fir*. Across th* now (lightly ruffled surface,in a line to the westward was a path of orimsoaglorv that was too dastling for any human eyes.To the southeast was a fleet of fishing schooners,filling their purse net* with alewives, fromwhose bodies the factories on the Great Wicom¬ico extracted the essential oil. The white sailsof a hundred vessels became grav in th* twi¬light. deepened almost to black and then -fadedout into tne nsutral tones of sky and ocean Itwas very besutiful. and I wae" enjoying it tomy ntmoet capacity when Mothent*aA cam* upbehind m* and broke the spoil bv saying: "Iwonder who won th* gam* todav?" He wasnot the only man on board who wa* interested inbase ball, for I came upon a knot of anxion*

.

ones a little ater who ware gravely discussingprobabilities and players' averages. Then 1captured the captain, and while h* left th*wheel to the tender mercies of Quartermaster*Robinson and Lewis, I mad* him tell me a fewof the mauy choice personal experience* andreminiscences; that was a treat indeed. Thecaptain is a modest gentleman, whose sol* dutyseems to be the safety of his boat and the com¬fort of hi* passengers. When the necessity ar¬rive-* he can be the stern commander, as manya noisy or drunken passenger can testify, butas a rule he is suave and kindly and full of anatural desire to please everybody. Not to knowCapt Qoeghegan is tobe minus the acquaintanceof one of the best of sailors and most amiable ofmen. For more thin thirteen year* he hascommanded the Sue. and there has n*v*r beenan accident on board that was due to poor sea¬manship and bad managementShortly before 3 a.m. on Tuesday the Sue

sidled up to her wharf in th* basin At Balti¬more and the trip wa* over.

BOOKS OF THE WEEK.

TRAVEL, ADVENTTRE AND SPORT. FromHlaclcwood's Magazine. No. X. New York:White x Alien. Washington: v\ m. BaUantyn*& Son.

AGNOSTICISM, and Other Essays. By ErxiimFawcmt. with a Prologue by Robert O. ln-gersoll. New York: Beltord, Clarke A Co.

TALE.-* FROM BLACKWOOD. 3d Series HewYork: White A Allen. Waahlngton: Wa. Bal-lantyne A Son.

THE OLD SETTLER AND HIS TALKS OF 8COARSWAMP. By Ko. Mott. New York: Bslford,Clarke £ Co.

A BLIND BARGAIN. A Novel. ByK^MirHow*Fletcher. New York: Belford, Clarke A Co.

MRS. MAYBRICK'S SENTENCE.

It Will b« Commuted or She Will bePardoned.

The English home secretary Matthews andthe experts in conference yesterday asaumedthat Mrs. Maybrick was not guilty, and, actingupon this assumption, sifted every scrap of thetestimony given, especially that in relation tothe husband'* craze for arsenic, which is ofgreat weight, and will, it is believed, turn thescale in the prisoner'* favor. It i* a noteworthyfact that the lord chancellor is seldom con¬sulted in such cases except when a reprieve ismeditated. The conference lasted four hours.It is regarded as a certainty that the homeoffice is in doubt, and it is believed that theresult of the deliberations must necessarily bea pardon or a commutation of sentence. ThePress association states that Home SecretaryMatthews will recommend to the oueen thecommutation of death aentcnce of Mrs. May-brick to penal aervitude tor life, and that thecommutation of sentence will be announcedafter the queen haa given formal assent.Eighty-eight members of the house ofcommonshave signed the memorial in behalf of Mrs.Maybrick.

WAXTH TO WBITB TO THI QrXIW.Mrs. Maybrick may be possessed of many de-

tires, but one is pre-emiuent from morning tillnight. She entreat* to be permitted to writeto the queen, but she ha* not been allowed todo so.She is but a wreck of her former *elf. Her

attire is blue homespun and her food is theregular prison fare. Yesterday her mail con¬tained 1.100 letters. None containing a refer¬ence to the case arc given to her, so that she isnot allowed to read many. The Baroness vonRoque wanted to give her a peach yesterday,but was not permitted to do so.

Accident to tbo Valkyrie.A special cablc telegram to the Philadelphia

Timet says that the commodore's prise, a pieceof plate worth £05, presented by the marquisof Exeter, was raced for yesterday around theIsle of Wight by ^he Valkyrie, Yarana. Irex,Wendur, Deerhound. Amphitrite. Mohawk.Stranger. Hyacinth and Samoina. Th* yacht*made for westward, the Irex leading. In mak¬ing for the west channel the Valkyrie's bow¬sprit snapped short and she returned to CowesRoads. The Yarana finished first, Irex **cond,Deerhound third and Wedder fourth.

Both Men Were Bit.It has Just been learned that a desperate duel

was fought Thursday on the Spokane andNorthern railroad, near Colville, W. T. Theprincipals were Fred. Adams and John Ma-honey. Revolvers were the weapons used andeach man emptied his pistol. Mahoney wasmortally wounded and fell where he stood.Adorns received two bullet wounds in the body,but managed to mount his horse and ride away.A sheriff and posse of mouuted men have gonein pursuit of tne fugitive. Charles Dower, oneof the fe# witnesses of the duel, received awound in his shoulder from one of tb* wildshots.

Traffic End of a Desperado.A tragedy was enacted yesterday 10 mile*

northeast of Jackson, Tenn. Hoary Prewit, aa

ex-cowboy from Texas, shot his young wifethrough the neck, inflicting a fatal wound,wounded his mother-in-law, and then shot him¬self through the head, dying instantly. A war¬rant was out for Prewit's arrest for moonshin-ing, snd he was endeavoring to induce his wifeto accompany him to Woakly county, which sherefused to do. owing to ill-health. Peewit wasa desperate character, and boasted to his wifsthat he had bqen married four* time*, and hadkillad one wife and three or four men. Tb*couple had been married bat four months.Wm. T. Coleman of California last weak sold

his large mining interests in Shasta county,CaL, to an English syndicate for #2.000.000.The property include* sixty mines, among themthe valuable Niagara. The now owner* willwork the mino* in a thorough mannor.William Tr.nnor, th* highwayman who bald

up Broker Lo«b ia the latter'* oSce on Broad¬way, New York. and fired a shot which mtooedhim. was ssntraoed to fifteen y*ar* and sixmonths in prison.The Ancient Order of <

convention in St Paul, having separated fraathe parent order in England, to now preparinga new constitution.

J. W. Lewis and Laura 8wile* were lashed bywhite eaps ia Marion countv, S.C., sad the man.up to a Ire* until be was Marlydead.

Samuel W. Renault, i.killed near Birmingham, Ala., Tborsdav, to Midto have been a nephew of Altea a. Tburman.He wa* from Paducah. Ky.Two mea were killed durin* a riot which ae-curred at a ptenie Bear Wheeling, W. Ta., yes¬terday.

The Brazilian bmO steamer AlHanse, wMktb* three commissioners who hat* beea .-¦

a* delegates te npreeeat Snail at (toeI

POWDERAbsolutely Pure.

ThU rowJar Mm nn«. A >*n«l.trentflh. anJ wholeenmenaea. Mor>

". and ouaiitWM

tSTABLISHSD 100 VIAH.IB INTERNATIONAL AWARDS.

PEARS* SOAPTta Pur* (I. Ho«( Economical u< tad

.f ALL SOAPLCP AIL JIJMSTS, JOT UPAS Of !

to ana national Award of 16.600 tr

QUINA-LAROCHEAH UYI0O&ATIIIO T0X10.

(OST*I>l>H

PERUVIAN BARK, IRON,PURE CATALAN WINE.

Par the PRETENTION u4 (TU mt

Malaria, Indi^estiM. Fever 4 Apie. list ifappetite, Poorness of Blood, Neiralgia,k

tt RaeL FOUOERA 4 00.. Arata for thaU.l*

SO NORTH « ILUAX ST.. H. T.

THE GLORY OF MANSTRlNbTH VITALITY!

IQiOW THYSELF,-jirntcL

A Scientific and Standard Popular Lthe Error* of Youth, Premature Incline.and Phvrtcal lability, lmpurltle*of tbe Blood,

EXHAUSTEDVITALITY.f Untold MiseriesReauiliug from Folly, Vice, Imoranee. K»Overtaxation, Enervating and untitling the vU4l»lor Work, Biieim**, the Married or Social KalaOoa.Avoid anakllful pretendera Poaeeea thla great

Work. It rontalna S»i page*. royal *».. Baeutlfalblading, emboaaed, full gilt. Price, only $l.*0 bymail, poatpavd concealed In plain w rapper, lilna-tratlve rroepectea Free. If vou apply now. Thedlatingutahed author, Win II Parker, M D , re¬ceived the COLO AND JEWfLLED MKDALfrom tft* National Nteecai Aaooolation.for the PRIZE ESSAY on NERVOUS antfPHYSICAL DEBILITY. I>r Perker aad a eorpaof Aaalatant Phyalrlana may be coaaLlted. eoofi.denttally, by atail or tn ixraon, al the efflce ofTHE PKABODV MF.UICAI. INSTITUTE.No. 4 Bulflnch St., Ho.ton. Maea., to whom allorder* for booka or letter* for advice ahould bedirected aa above.tti>4-a.tu.Ui

C/ONTINI ATlON OrH. A. SELIGKOV8

20 PEB CENT bEMOVAL SALEef

PCRE WISES AND EIQt ObSla BotUea and Deiuljvliiia

At62« 12TB ST. $ W. NEAR P.

Before I remove to in) uew building uu the rvraet of12th and H-ni.ayivania ave 11 « . uu ur alwul (h tuUrr1,1 want tu reduce in\ iiunienae >tu k of t uiwirii ..ujAmerican » uiaa and Liquor*. bow 'l enl in tour warehouse* in Uii* city and one Ui liaiuuun. to the vwylowest minimum.PEEAsh COUPABE MT PKICE8 WITH TBOSE UP

OTHEbS.Orunnal BedureA

CAIJFORXIA WINES. In.-ea priceper ual. per uaL

Claret, extra quality 41 uu 40 miburyundy 1 MlAngelica 1 UOMnecatel .. 1 n#sherry' (Golden or Pale 1 MlSherry " " extia old 2 UUPort 1 :>oPort, extra old ~ OOHockKieaUngBrandyBraady, very oldbrandy, very, very old 10 00Champagne, quart a, docc-n 12 00Chamiairn*, plnta. 0 duieu 13 00

1 OO1 00JuOOO

woftKOiflso

-S *04 UO

10 40VIRGINIA AND OlHLb AMERICAN WINKS.

Virginia Claret 1 00Noriou'a \irginia Seedlinx. i-erdozen 4 00

Oenuiue North Carolina bcupper-noug 1 SO(A de iclou* wine. >

Sweet Catawba tdneat quality) 001 60

IMPOBTED WINES AND CobPIALS.Port.u.mhI Table..Port.Good CookingPort.BunruadyPort.Ola London Dock..

4 UU2 .*K)5 OOti UU2 50Sherry.Cooking-Good..

Sherry.Good Table 4 UUsherry.Duff Gordon 0 U0Sherry.Amontillado '

Genuine bay Kuin, oldGenuine bay hum. very old......Jamaica Bum, oldJamaica Bum. very oldSt Croix bum, oldSt. Croix Hum. veryoldOld ltcdlord bum (excellent lor

so4 00b uu6 OO« UO

(HI6 U0

cooaingi.Did Holland GinMiite Slat GinAnchor GinOld by* Malt GinOld Tom GinScotch Whiaky, oldScotch Wluaky, very oldScotch Wnlaay, very.very old

3 .*>05 U06 00« UU4 U0ti UOfi uo7 60

10 00Iriah Whiaky. old 6 00Iriah * hiaky, very old T iO

¦ >t8Irtah Wluaky. very, v cry oidGerman Koiriren brantaeiuAESO THE FOLEOWING DO¬

MES lie WHl&IUbS:TrimUe Pure ByeMubuceilo Pure by*.Perfec tion Pure Eye.Uanmaville Pure b)eOld Kentucky Sour Kaah.Cotfnac brandy, Kartell.tkaruac Brand)Coffuac. otardCoiuac. Seivuette.

3 2b1 SO

3 20.J U04 WOhS«>fo4 00« 00a 204 004 00« so

3 SO4 00

if94

*!S« I

i£pihr Maah '

y, Aarteli i

y, Henneaa) A Co.. ' In DemiDuyny k Co f Bottlaa,ette 1

Per Dot.

DetnUohaa mBottlaa, vary lew.

DemUohaa mvary low.Per Doa.

3 UO.2 %b

-2Sa 00

23^2 00

Bitter*.Wild Cherry-Harter*'.. * U' SVVermouth 12 00 SAnroetura 12 00 V 00

CObDIAES. Per bottle. Per bottle,Cfcaltreuae.Velloa.uiiart.- 43 uu .* 40Green .qua t 4 00 8 SO1 allow-pinta X 00Graao t*atatl.Berlin

I na.lan.......

MaraachinoAham theCnracoa.bed or WhiteBeuedicUne.qu. ru 3 I

pint*Cherry Cordial.Cherry Bounce 1 00"lUaj berry syrtip vftialtaar Water.ui quart m«a 16

Per Do*.BCBOCNDT-Ga bottle* only), bottle*.

Jlacoa....Bint. 15 00Chaaibartia- X» Mt IB SUChablia-White. 14 OO 12 00KHi IN W EI> ES.(in bottlaa only).LalhenhaUMr.. S 00 T 00Niereteiuer 10 00IMloohhriiaer. 11 0U b 00>odaah«imar 11 00 w oo'jatdahatu er V U0?uOLrhacSer IK 00 10 OSPartiaa roinir to tEe < .iuntry may leeva thatr oiiaM'or ahipmeLt, which will be promptly .mSH la.

I. A. SEEIOSOH.THE WINE ABD LIQtOB MEBCHAPT.aa-wAa-G bJO 12th at. p w . near

McMmnrtor opium

of the dn« by '

while thew retHaiA lti

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