the ethicurean cookbook: recipes, foods and spirituous liquors, from our bounteous walled gardens in...
TRANSCRIPT
CONTENTS
CoverListofRecipesAbouttheBookTitlePageTheEthicurean
Winter
BeetrootCarpacciowithHoneyedWalnutsDuckTerrinewithCranberriesandCobnutsTandoorScallopsCeleriacPureacuteeandPickledRockSamphireMonkfishCheekswithSaffronCauliflowerandAniseedRoastPartridgewithBreadandCheeseLambrsquosWoolJanetrsquosJungleJuiceIcewithCheddar99FlakeRabbitConfitwithLovageBreadcrumbsConfitMeatsConfitTomatoeswithRuffleBasilBeefBrisketSlow-roastedinCoffeeSaucewithValorMashPigeonBreastswithBeetrootPearlBarleyandBordelaiseSauce
SteamedLemonSolewithFondantPinkFirsGoldenBeetrootandNasturtiumRemoulade
SeaRobinwithFennelButterSauceandHerbedPinkFirsPineappleTurmericandGingerGlazedHamwithlsquoPiccalillirsquoGlazedStarAniseCarrotsEcclesCakeswithDorsetBlueVinnySauceMilkStoutandChocolateSteamedPuddingPedroXimeacutenezandWhiskywithVermouthSmokeFennelSeedandGingerHotChocolate
Spring
NettleSoupwithCaerphillyStGeorgersquosMushroomswithAsparagusRibwortPlantainMushroomJellyandAppleJelly
Sweet-cureMackerelwithMorelsSpeltSodaBreadandHorseradish
AsparaguswithToastedSesameandHollandaiseSauceClearHamHockBrothwithPoachedEggsCaerphillyandCiderWelshRabbitSmokedChipotleChilliesSmokedRoeDeerLoinwithWildRocketClampedCarrotsHoneyedWalnutsandWoodSorrel
CurdCheeseCucumberFlatBeanAniseedandSesameCrabSaladwithNewPotatoesPickledCarrotandSmokedPaprikaMayonnaise
SpringRadisheswithAnchovyCregravemeFraiche
TroutwithKelpandShiitakeMushroomStockRiceFlatBeansandSeaKale
GoatMeatballsMashLovageButterandMustardGreensOxTonguewithSwedeParsleyandCiderVinegarOxTonguewithCauliflowerGilliflowerandHazelnutsSaltMarshLambwithTidalGreensSteamedRabbitPuddingPorkJuniperandBlackIPAPiePearlBarleywithOldDemdikeandStGeorgersquosMushroomRhubarbandCustardChocolateandSaltCaramelBrownieswithCherryandElderflowerSauce
ElderflowersyrupStrawberryandRoseLemonadePuddingwithSaffronandCiderBrandyCustard
TheEthicureanVermouthBotanicalsVermouthRoseLemonadeTheEthicureanCocktailNegroni
Summer
FigsWrappedinPorkBellywithLavenderandBuffaloMozzarella
CaramelisedChicoryLabnehandMaceratedStrawberrySaladRoastedTomatoandLiquoriceBasilSoup
RoastedCourgetteandCobnutSoupwithLabnehandGingerTurmericandMintDressing
SousedMackerelCarrotFennelandSaffronwithGooseberryandMintGranita
ChilledBeetrootSoupPar-celWalnutIceCreamandRoastedCobnutOil
Ewersquos-curd-stuffedCourgetteFlowerswithFennelSherbetGlobeArtichokeswithHollandaiseSauceandSumacPeaGoatBaconandLovageBrothScallopsinPuffPastrywithVermouthandFennelCreamPickledPollackwithFlame-roastedPeppersCucumberPulBiberChilliandWaterMint
DorsetBlueVinnyandFlame-roastedPepperswithCharredLittleGem
JohnDorywithMorelMushroomsFlatBeansHaricotBeansandHamHockStock
MusselsinCiderwithTarragonSteamedMegrimSolewithRockSamphireandSumac-braisedFennel
PickledrocksamphireWaterBuffaloFilletwithClearChickenStockTarragonandSalt-bakedBabyBeets
BarbecuedHorseMackerelwithCobnutSalbitxadaSauceFennelandSumacGravadTroutWhiteRaspberryLoganberryandEwersquosYoghurtTerrinewithSweetCicelyConfit
ElderflowerSorbetwithFennelSherbetandWildStrawberries
PineappleWeedJellyElderflowerandLavenderMarshmallowsSpicedGingerBeerSummerElderRawRhubarbSmashDoubleSloeGinandTonic
Autumn
GoatBaconwithOxTongueNasturtiumsandClarifiedHamBroth
WildMushroomswithSourdoughToastandThymeSticheltonCregravemeFraicircche
WildMushroomandSpeltPressedTerrinewithSpinachandRainbowChard
SwedishKnaumlckebroumldwithCottageCheesePickledBeetrootCarawayBeetrootCrispsandTomThumbLettuce
RoastCrownPrinceSoupwithTandooriSpiceWalnutOilandCrispSageLeaves
Salt-bakedCeleriacPortobelloMushroomandAppleSoupDeep-friedAuberginewithRoseHipSyrupPearNativeNapeHazelnutCardamomandEwersquosCheeseSalad
PreservedDuckLegChorizoButterBeanandConfitTomatoPotStewwithYinYangBeans
WoodPigeonBreastswithPersianSpicedBulgarWheatCucumberAniseedandBlackCabbage
ChickenMoleVenisonCiderandQuinceStewwithHerbedButterDumplings
FishSoupwithSpicedHeritageTomatoesFennelSeedandEnglishTruffleOilToast
Slow-braisedGoatrsquosLegwithCiderShallotsLentilsandGlazedCarrots
PheasantKievwithWinterTarragonandStrawberryMyrtleRareRoastSirloinofBeefwithBordelaiseSauceBlackCabbageandTruffleCauliflower
AlmondPearCardamomandChocolateCakeSeaBuckthornSorbetwithAppleandVanillaPureacuteeToffeeAppleandCaramelLemonBalm
BeetrootAppleandCobnutCrumblewithRoastedWhiteChocolateSpoom
SimplesyrupsforsorbetsandspoomsSpoomRoastedWhiteChocolateSpoomCherrySpoomItalianMeringueLordrsquosLovageAppleFlipTheOrchardatBarleyWoodSalsifyandOgleShieldGratinVincentCastellanorsquosVenisonChorizo
Basics
Listofsuppliers
BibliographyAcknowledgementsCopyright
ListofRecipesAlmondPearCardamomandChocolateCakeAppleFlipAsparaguswithToastedSesameandHollandaiseSauceBarbecuedHorseMackerelwithCobnutSalbitxadaSauceBeefBrisketSlow-roastedinCoffeeSaucewithValorMashBeetrootCarpacciowithHoneyedWalnutsBeetrootAppleandCobnutCrumblewithRoastedWhiteChocolateSpoomCaerphillyandCiderWelshRabbitCaramelisedChicoryLabnehandMaceratedStrawberrySaladCherrySpoomChickenMoleChilledBeetrootSoupPar-celWalnutIceCreamandRoastedCobnutOil
ChocolateandSaltCaramelBrownieswithCherryandElderflowerSauce
ClearHamHockBrothwithPoachedEggsConfitMeatsConfitTomatoeswithRuffleBasilCrabSaladwithNewPotatoesPickledCarrotandSmokedPaprikaMayonnaise
CurdCheeseCucumberFlatBeanAniseedandSesameDeep-friedAuberginewithRoseHipSyrup
DorsetBlueVinnyandFlame-roastedPepperswithCharredLittleGem
DoubleSloeGinandTonicDuckTerrinewithCranberriesandCobnutsEcclesCakeswithDorsetBlueVinnySauceElderflowerandLavenderMarshmallowsElderflowerSorbetwithFennelSherbetandWildStrawberriesElderflowersyrupEwersquos-curd-stuffedCourgetteFlowerswithFennelSherbetFennelandSumacGravadTroutFennelSeedandGingerHotChocolateFigsWrappedinPorkBellywithLavenderandBuffaloMozzarellaFishSoupwithSpicedHeritageTomatoesFennelSeedandEnglishTruffleOilToastGlazedStarAniseCarrotsGlobeArtichokeswithHollandaiseSauceandSumacGoatBaconwithOxTongueNasturtiumsandClarifiedHamBroth
GoatMeatballsMashLovageButterandMustardGreensItalianMeringueJanetrsquosJungleJuiceIcewithCheddar99FlakeJohnDorywithMorelMushroomsFlatBeansHaricotBeansandHamHockStockLambrsquosWoolLordrsquosLovageMilkStoutandChocolateSteamedPudding
MonkfishCheekswithSaffronCauliflowerandAniseedMusselsinCiderwithTarragonNegroniNettleSoupwithCaerphillyOxTonguewithCauliflowerGilliflowerandHazelnutsOxTonguewithSwedeParsleyandCiderVinegarPeaGoatBaconandLovageBrothPearNativeNapeHazelnutCardamomandEwersquosCheeseSaladPearlBarleywithOldDemdikeandStGeorgersquosMushroomPedroXimeacutenezandWhiskywithVermouthSmokePheasantKievwithWinterTarragonandStrawberryMyrtlePickledPollackwithFlame-roastedPeppersCucumberPulBiberChilliandWaterMint
PickledrocksamphirePigeonBreastswithBeetrootPearlBarleyandBordelaiseSaucePineappleWeedJellyPineappleTurmericandGingerGlazedHamwithlsquoPiccalillirsquoPorkJuniperandBlackIPAPiePreservedDuckLegChorizoButterBeanandConfitTomatoPotStewwithYinYangBeansRabbitConfitwithLovageBreadcrumbsRareRoastSirloinofBeefwithBordelaiseSauceBlackCabbageandTruffleCauliflower
RawRhubarbSmashRhubarbandCustardRoastCrownPrinceSoupwithTandooriSpiceWalnutOiland
CrispSageLeavesRoastPartridgewithBreadandCheeseRoastedCourgetteandCobnutSoupwithLabnehandGingerTurmericandMintDressing
RoastedTomatoandLiquoriceBasilSoupRoastedWhiteChocolateSpoomRoseLemonadeSalsifyandOgleShieldGratinSaltMarshLambwithTidalGreensSalt-bakedCeleriacPortobelloMushroomandAppleSoupScallopsinPuffPastrywithVermouthandFennelCreamSeaBuckthornSorbetwithAppleandVanillaPureacuteeToffeeAppleandCaramelLemonBalm
SeaRobinwithFennelButterSauceandHerbedPinkFirsSimplesyrupsforsorbetsandspoomsSlow-braisedGoatrsquosLegwithCiderShallotsLentilsandGlazedCarrots
SmokedChipotleChilliesSmokedRoeDeerLoinwithWildRocketClampedCarrotsHoneyedWalnutsandWoodSorrel
SousedMackerelCarrotFennelandSaffronwithGooseberryandMintGranita
SpicedGingerBeerSpoomSpringRadisheswithAnchovyCregravemeFraiche
StGeorgersquosMushroomswithAsparagusRibwortPlantainMushroomJellyandAppleJelly
SteamedLemonSolewithFondantPinkFirsGoldenBeetrootandNasturtiumRemoulade
SteamedMegrimSolewithRockSamphireandSumac-braisedFennel
SteamedRabbitPuddingStrawberryandRoseLemonadePuddingwithSaffronandCiderBrandyCustard
SummerElderSwedishKnaumlckebroumldwithCottageCheesePickledBeetrootCarawayBeetrootCrispsandTomThumbLettuce
Sweet-cureMackerelwithMorelsSpeltSodaBreadandHorseradishTandoorScallopsCeleriacPureacuteeandPickledRockSamphireTheEthicureanCocktailTheEthicureanVermouthBotanicalsTheOrchardatBarleyWoodTroutwithKelpandShiitakeMushroomStockRiceFlatBeansandSeaKaleVenisonCiderandQuinceStewwithHerbedButterDumplingsVermouthVincentCastellanorsquosVenisonChorizoWaterBuffaloFilletwithClearChickenStockTarragonandSalt-bakedBabyBeets
WhiteRaspberryLoganberryandEwersquosYoghurtTerrinewithSweetCicelyConfit
WildMushroomandSpeltPressedTerrinewithSpinachandRainbowChard
WildMushroomswithSourdoughToastandThymeSticheltonCregravemeFraicircche
WoodPigeonBreastswithPersianSpicedBulgarWheatCucumberAniseedandBlackCabbage
AbouttheBookTheEthicureanphilosophyissimpleeatlocalcelebratenativefoodslivewell
TheEthicureanisquietlychangingthefaceofmodernBritishcookingndashallfromawalledgardenintheheartoftheMendipHillsTheEthicureanCookbookfollowsayearintheirmagnificentkitchenandgardenndashandcelebratesthegreatestfooddrinkandtraditionsofthisfairland
ThecombinationsareelectriccuredroedeerflirtswithwoodsorrelandforagednettlesoupisfortifiedbyayoungCaerphillyHoneyedwalnutsnestleamongstbeetrootcarpacciorichcurdcheeseisbalancedbydelicatecucumberAndthecomfortofpiesandpudndashporkandjuniperpieEcclescakeswithDorsetBlueVinnyndashisenhancedbytheapplejuiceciderandbeerpouredinequalmeasure
With120recipesandayearofseasonalinspirationinphotographsandwordsEthicureanismisanewBritishcookingmanifesto
TheEthicureansareJackAdair-BevanPaucirclaZarateMatthewPenningtonandIainPennington
AbovelefttorightJackMatthewOchoPaucirclaandIain
CookrsquosNotesAllvegetablesarepeeledunlessotherwisespecifiedAlleggsaremediumfree-rangeButterisunsaltedunlessotherwisespecified
ethicureanadjthepursuitoffine-tastingfoodwhilebeingmindfuloftheeffectofonersquosfoodproductionandconsumptionontheenvironment
TheEthicureansitsbelowanovergrownGeorgianestatesometimehauntofWordsworthandColeridgeItsgardensarealabyrinthofrosespergolasandchippedstatuesTherestaurantandkitchenarehousedintwooftheoriginalglasshouseswithinBarleyWoodWalledGardenbuiltforHenryHerbertWillsoftheImperialTobaccoCompanyin1901ThiswastheyearinwhichQueenVictoriatookherfinalbreathOurWalledGardenisfilledwithneatrowsofcabbagesandespaliersofgreengagesandapricotsHundred-year-oldvineshavebulliedtheirwaythroughasmallbrickholeinoneoftheglasshousesCamberedred-brickpathsframeapatchworkgardenofcannellinibeansmarchingTomThumbandaquiltedstatisThegardeniscutinhalfbyayew-linedcorridorinspringlavendergrowsatjusttherightheighttotearoffsmallhandfulsaswewalkupfromthelowerorchardInsummerthepurplemassgiveswaytocampanuladayliliesandhundredsofasterMarkthegardenerbringsustrugsofvegetableseachmorningandthestarchedwhiteflashofachefrsquostuniccanbeseenaroundtheherbbordersjustbeforelunch
BritishseasonalityethicalsourcingofingredientsandattentiontothelocalenvironmentarethefoundationsofourbusinessWearefourfriendsJackAdair-BevanPaucirclaZarateandMatthewandIainPenningtonBetweenuswehaveoverlappingareasofexpertisethatrangefromthepracticalandorganisationalknowledgeneededtorunabusinesstothescienceofcookingandthewildfoodthatgrowsoutsidethewallsofourrestaurantWeareself-taughtandwanttoofferanapproachtoBritishfoodthatisneitherexclusivenorisolatingandonethatisfundamentallyaboutsharingknowledgeandpassion
Sustainabilityhasbecomeabuzzwordinrecentyearsandallanybodycan
SustainabilityhasbecomeabuzzwordinrecentyearsandallanybodycaneverdoisworktowardsamoresustainablewayoflifendashweEthicureansaredoingourbestWetookovertherestaurantin2010overfivedayswecompletedarefitwiththehelpofourfamilyandfriendsknockingdownwallsredecoratingandpausingonlytotakeadecentlunchandsupperonthelongtablesoverlookingtheWringtonValeOnthesixthdayweopenedforbusinessandbeganafullappleseasonpickingpulpingandjuicingWestartedresearchingtheseventyvarietiesofapplethatwenowhadtolookafterinourtwoorchards
FoodandthenarrativesurroundingitisinaconstantstateofevolutionitispoliticalartisticandcompletelydeliciousTheMendipsinSomersetthehomeofTheEthicureanisaplaceonthevergeofsomethingincredibleArtisansfromacrossthecountryaremovingtheirproductionhereCommunityfarmsorchardsandcollaborationsarepoppingupacrossthecountyWearewatchingdaybydayasourfriendscustomersandsuppliersarere-establishingandstrengtheningtheirruralcommunitiesandtakingcontroloftheirfoodproductionWeareseeingandenjoyingtherediscoveryofoldtechniquesandadaptationsforthefuture
FromouropeningdaywechangedourmenuonadailybasisaccordingtowhatwasavailablewecontinuetocelebrateeverysingledayoftheBritishseasonInthisbookwehaverecordednotonlyrecipesbutourrelationshipswithourproducersourlandourlivesandourhistoryndashallofwhichareintricatelyconnectedwiththefoodweeat
Werarelyleavethisbeautifulwalledgardenitisanabsoluteparadise
RecipeList
BeetrootCarpacciowithHoneyedWalnutsDuckTerrinewithCranberriesandCobnuts
TandoorScallopsCeleriacPureacuteeandPickledRockSamphireMonkfishCheekswithSaffronCauliflowerandAniseed
RoastPartridgewithBreadandCheeseLambrsquosWool
JanetrsquosJungleJuiceIcewithCheddar99FlakeRabbitConfitwithLovageBreadcrumbs
ConfitMeatsConfitTomatoeswithRuffleBasil
BeefBrisketSlow-roastedinCoffeeSaucewithValorMashPigeonBreastswithBeetrootPearlBarleyandBordelaiseSauceSteamedLemonSolewithFondantPinkFirsGoldenBeetroot
andNasturtiumRemouladeSeaRobinwithFennelButterSauceandHerbedPinkFirs
PineappleTurmericandGingerGlazedHamwithlsquoPiccalillirsquoGlazedStarAniseCarrots
EcclesCakeswithDorsetBlueVinnySauceMilkStoutandChocolateSteamedPudding
PedroXimeacutenezandWhiskywithVermouthSmokeFennelSeedandGingerHotChocolate
THEREAREACOUPLEofspecialrequirementsfortheWalledGardeninwinterndashfirstalightertodefrostthepadlocksandsecondlyagoodtorchforeveningtripsaroundthegardenunlessthereisafullmoonFrostsintheWringtonValearespectacularTheairhoarthatdecoratesthetreescreatesalandscapethatismoreakintoSiberiathanSomersetInanearly-morningdriftingfogtheviewfromtheglasshouseisdivineDuringourfirstyearatBarleyWoodwehadheavysnowandseveralhoarfrostsandthepathwaythroughthecentreofthegardenlayunderagoodthreeinchesofsnowJackclippedonhisskisandarmedwithtwobamboocanespinchedfromMarkrsquosbeansmanagedtoskirightthroughitMorningtripstothecompostheapatthebottomorchardthereserveoftheluckiestinsummerbecomeatasktobeavoidedbyallofus
ByearlyDecemberwetrytofinishpressingthelastoftheseasonrsquosapplesasworkingintheicyciderbarnisharshElenaPaucirclarsquosmumandPhilJackrsquosdadruntheapplebusinessBothareusedtowarmerclimatesndashMexicoandtheGulfrespectivelyYoursquollfindtheminthebarnclothedinmultiplelayersdebatingwhichvarietiesofapplestoblendTheirfridgesathomeareburstingwithlabelledspecimensTydemanrsquosLateOrangesitsnexttoReverendJamesTheseasonrsquoslastpressingsrequirejugglingthefinalfewtrugsofsweetvarietieswiththelatercookerssuchastheinfamousBramleyandthecloud-texturedBlenheimOrange
Thecoldweatheractsasagentleprodtowardsmorefull-bodiedbutteryfoodanddrinkByDecembercalorificcautionisthrownasideaswemarchtowardstheinevitablefeastandbyChristmaswearetrottingfull-belliedtowardsabsolutegluttonyPartridgesaresynonymouswiththistimeofyearweallknowthesongTheseplumpbirdsvirtuallyflyoutofthekitchenroastedandglazedwithacoatofhawthornjellywithitswild-fruittartness
WinterisachancetodeployallofthosechutneysjamspicklesjelliesliqueursinfusedginsbeerscidersandwinesthathavebeensquirrelledawayduringseasonalglutsItrsquosatimeforexperimentssweetconcoctionssuchasmembrillo-infusedvodkaandvanillaandespressobeanrumOurWalledGardenapricotjamandblackcardamomvodkaatriumphofadrinkwasthesweetproductofabitterdayinJanuary
FromtheNewYearwhileeveryoneelsedetoxesexercisesanddietsinacloudofresolveandperspirationwearepreparingthebiggesteventinourcalendarourannualWassailForustheWassailisafestivalfixduringthecruellestpartofwinterWefeelwehaverecapturedalostpartofourcountryrsquosheritageandrichlyupdateditOnthiscoldeveningweneverfailtoenjoythemagicalritualsofeatingdrinkingandworkingtogether
BytheendofJanuarywearetheonespayingpenanceforouralcoholconsumptionandexcessWorkbeginsorrathercontinuesafteralittlebreakAllthefruittreesareprunedthedividinghedgesthatarematureandreadyforlayingareconfrontedwithbillhooksandaxestheformidablehedgeoutsideourciderbarnisduetobelaidnextyearWeareluckytohavetheoldesthedgingsocietyinthecountrytheWringtonandBurringtonwhichwasformedaftertheEnclosuresActcameintoforceintheearly1800sItstillmeetsregularlyjustdowntheroadTherearedistinctivestylesofhedge-layingthatvaryfromregiontoregionEachstyleisspecifictothelocalclimateandthetypesoftreesandshrubsthatwillgrowinlocalsoilTheareaaroundtheWalledGardenisahedge-layingstrongholdalthoughwesuspectfewpeoplewillhaveheardofourlocalcelebrityUncleFrankahedge-layinglegendfromButcombeAllthemaintenancehastotakeplacebeforethebirdsestablishtheirnestsA
maintenancehastotakeplacebeforethebirdsestablishtheirnestsAcarefullyselectedmixofshrubsandtreeswellplantedwillyieldenoughfruittofeedplentyofhungryhumansandbirdsThehedgeframedinthegiantdoorwaytoourciderbarnreadslikeaninventoryofourlarderatTheEthicureanhawthornsloeswilddamsonsrosehipscrabappleshazelandcobnutsBeforeourresidentrobinhastimetosingforamateandbuildanesttheyewhedgesareclippedofferinganearlyreminderofthegardenrsquoscyclicalorderedstyleandtheimminentarrivalofspring
BeetrootCarpacciowithHoneyedWalnuts
WinterisatestingtimeforeventhemosthardenedproponentofseasonalityAnanonymoussighcansometimesbeheardinthekitchenwhenMarkthegardenercomesinwithyetanotherbasketofbeetrootTheaudaciouspink-and-white-stripedChioggiathecommonredDetroitandtheunimaginativelynamedgoldenbeetrootarefrequentvisitorstoTheEthicureankitchenatthistimeofyearHoweverthechefsrelishtheopportunitytocreateanoriginaldishThis
oneisourplayontheclassicbeefcarpaccioReminiscentofastained-glasswindowitcelebratesthedistinctivetasteofeachofthebeetrootvarietiesthatgrowonourdoorstepFlavourandspiceintertwinewithvibrantsplashesofcolourbrighteningamonochromaticwintryday
SERVES43beetroottoppedandtailed300mlredwinevinegar120gcastersugar1clove3staranise12blackpeppercornsasmallpieceofcinnamonstickahandfulofwintersaladleaves(wesuggestamixtureofmizunawinterpurslanelandcressandrocket)flakyseasaltandblackpepper
FORTHEHONEYEDWALNUTS
frac12tspbutter25gwalnuts1tsprunnyhoney
PutthebeetrootinapanwiththevinegarandhalfthesugarPouroverenoughcoldwatertocoverthebeetrootcompletelythenaddthespicesandbringtotheboilCoverwithalidandcookgentlyforabout40minutesoruntilthereisonlyaslightresistancewhenyouinsertthetipofaknifeinthebeetrootMeanwhilepreparethewalnutsMeltthebutterinasmallpanaddthewalnutsandfryoveramedium-highheatuntillightlycolouredAddthehoneyandtossuntilthewalnutsareevenlycoatedDecantfromthepanintoacooldish
DrainthecookedbeetrootkeepinghalfofthecookingliquorandcoolthemundercoldrunningwaterPourthesavedcookingliquorintoacleanpanandaddtheremainingsugarandapinchofsaltBoiloverahighheatuntilithasreducedbythree-quartersitshouldhaveathicksyrupyconsistencyRemovefromtheheatandleavetocool
PeelthebeetrootandcutthemintoquartersUsingamandolineslicethemwaferthinIfyoudonothaveamandolineputthequarteredbeetrootflat-sidedownandslicelengthwaysasthinlyaspossiblewithaverysharpknife
Toservethecarpaccioarrangethebeetrooton4servingplatesthendrizzleoverthesyrupyliquorAddasprinklingofseasaltandfreshlycrackedblackpepperthenscatterthehoneyedwalnutsandthesaladleavesontop
DuckTerrinewithCranberriesandCobnuts
WeuseAylesbury-crossducksfromMadgettrsquosFarmtomakethisterrineItwasthroughfarmersrsquomarketsthatwebecameawareofthecommendableworkMadgettrsquoshasbeendoingforyearsSituatednearChepstowitwasoriginallyadairyandbeefcattlefarm(andwasevenmentionedintheDomesdayBook)butoverthepastdecadethepoultrybusinesshastakenoffLikeothergreatfamilybusinessestheycaredeeplyaboutwhattheydowhichofcourseisreflectedinthequalityoftheirproduceThisisaveryversatilerecipeandyoucouldeasilysubstitutechickenor
goosefortheduckCarefulweighingoftheingredientsiskeyasyouneedtocompressthemevenlyintothemouldsTheterrinesneedanightintherefrigeratorbeforeservingTheywill
keepwellforseveraldaysbecausetheyaresealedbythegoosefatYouprobablywonrsquotneedtobutteryourtoastbeforeliberallyapplyingtheterrinendashalthoughitisprettytastyifyoudo
MAKES4SMALLTERRINES
210ggoosefat1tspsalt1tspgroundwhitepepperfrac12tspgroundstaranise465gskinnedduckbreastroughlydiced60gdriedcobnuts(orhazelnuts)lightlycrushed60gdriedcranberriessoakedinciderfor30minutesthendrained135gblackcabbage(cavolonero)coarselychoppedandthenblanchedinboilingsaltedwateruntiljusttender(optional)seasaltandblackpepper
Putthegoosefatinaheavy-basedpanoveralowheatuntilmeltedthenaddthesaltpepperandstaranisePlacethedicedduckbreastinthefatandcoverthemixturewithacircleofbakingparchmentCookoveraverylowheatfor30ndash45minutesuntiltheduckiscookedbutstillslightlypinkinside(ameatthermometershouldregister74degCthoughwecookoursto55ndash60degC)Removefromtheheatandleavetocoolatroomtemperature
Takethebreastmeatoutofthecooledgoosefatandputitinabowl(Youcanpourthefatoffthecookingliquorfromtheduckstraintheliquorand
canpourthefatoffthecookingliquorfromtheduckstraintheliquoranduseittoaddflavourtootherdishes)AddthenutsdrainedcranberriesandthecabbageifusingandseasonwellLinefour150mlramekinswithclingfilmandputtheminadishtocatchanyspillagesDividetheduckmixturebetweenthemitshouldcomeslightlyabovetherimsPouroverenoughofthecookingfattofillthegapsallowingittosinkinbeforecheckingthelevelagainCovereachterrinewithclingfilmandthenspikeitwithaknifetipsotheextrafatcanrunawayastheterrineschillPlaceachoppingboardontopandweightdownwith4heavytinsLeaveinthefridgeovernight
Beforeservingdiptheramekinsinhotwaterforabout30secondstoloosentheterrinesandthenturnthemoutontoaboardLeavetocometoroomtemperaturesoalittleofthefatmeltsawaythentransferthemtoservingplatesServewithtoastedsourdoughandRowanJelly(seehere)ifliked
daggerItisreassuringtoknowthatthegreatMrsBeetonwouldhaveapprovedofourchoiceofbreedInherBookofHouseholdManagementshewriteslsquoTheWhiteAylesburyduckisanddeservedlyauniversalfavouriteItssnowyplumageandcomfortablecomportmentmakeitacredittothepoultry-yardwhileitsbroadanddeepbreastanditsamplebackconveytheassurancethatyoursatisfactionwillnotceaseatitsdeathhellipthismemberoftheduckfamilyisbredonanextensivescalehellipintheabodesofthecottagersRoundthewallsoftheliving-roomsandofthebedroomevenarefixedrowsofwoodenboxeslinedwithhayanditisthebusinessofthewifeandchildrentonurseandcomfortthefeatheredlodgerstofeedthelittleducklingsandtotaketheoldonesoutforanairingThisinspiringextractservesasreminderoftheimportanceoffoodprovenanceinVictoriantimeswhenamealwasafamilyprocessthatstretchedbeyondsittingaroundatable
TandoorScallopsCeleriacPureacuteeandPickledRockSamphire
ScallopsareprizedfortheirsweetnesswhichcomesfromthewhitemeatanabductormusclethatcontainsveryhighlevelsofmildlysweetaminoacidWheneatenfreshthetasteisreminiscentofseaweedYoushouldbeabletoorderhand-divedscallopsfromagoodfishmongerInthisdishtheirsweetnuttinessiscomplementedbytheuseofceleriacndashasavouryearthyelementgivenmoregrandeurbybeingpureeedwitharichchickenstockTheflavourisheightenedwithtandoorspicesandpungentIndonesianlongpepperwhichaddthefinalelementstothisfantasticandrelativelysimple
pepperwhichaddthefinalelementstothisfantasticandrelativelysimplestarterSamphireandthesaladleafredfrillworkwelltogetherontheplateforreasonsofbothaestheticsandtastendashthetwoingredientsalmostmirroreachotherandconjureupanimageofthemarinebedIfyouwouldliketoservethescalloproespoachthemfor2minutesinalittlevegetablestockpriortoserving
SERVES416diver-caughtscallopsorangeroesremoved1ndash2tbsprapeseedorvegetableoilahandfulofPickledRockSamphire(seehere)ahandfulofredfrill(orotherwintersaladleaves)apinchoftandoorispicemixapinchofIndonesianlongpepperseasalt
FORTHECELERIACPUREacuteE
350gceleriacpeeledandcutinto1cmcubes95mlbrownchickenstock(seehere)80mlcregravemefraicircchefrac14nutmeg
FirstpreparetheceleriacChooseapanlargeenoughtoholdasteamingbasketandhalffillitwithcoldwaterGratethenutmegintothewaterandbringtotheboilPuttheceleriacinthesteamingbasketandsetitoverthepanCoverandsteamuntiltheceleriacisverysoftTransfertoablenderorfoodprocessoraddthechickenstockandcregravemefraicirccheandblitzuntilsmoothscrapingdownthesidesasneeded(Foranextrasmoothconsistencystrainthepureacuteethroughafinesieveafterblending)Seasonwithsalttotasteandreheatgentlyinapan
SeasonthescallopslightlywithseasaltSetalargeheavy-basedfryingpanoverahighheatforaminuteortwoAddathinfilmofrapeseedorvegetableoiltothehotpanitshouldbegintosmokeverylightlyAddthescallopstothepanoneatatimestartingfromtheoutsideandworkinginaclockwisedirectionspirallingtowardsthecentreBythetimeyouhaveputinyourlastscallopitwillmostlikelybetimetoturnthefirstAninviting
inyourlastscallopitwillmostlikelybetimetoturnthefirstAninvitinggoldencrustshouldhaveformedontheundersideIfitisstillalittlepaleleaveforafurther30secondsTurnoverallthescallopsinorderfollowingtheclockwisespiralyoumadeWhenyoureachthecentrereturntothebeginningandtakeoutthescallopsinordercheckingthattheundersidehascolouredtooSetasidetorestonawarmplate
PlaceaspoonfulofceleriacpureacuteeoneachservingplatePlace4scallopsontopofthepureacuteethendecoratewiththepickledrocksamphireredfrillalightdustingoftandoorispiceandasmallpinchoflongpepper
SCALLOPS
AswewritethesustainableandenvironmentallybenignpracticeofdivingforscallopsisunderthreatfromEuropeanlegislationInanattempttocontrolthetoxinlevelsofscallopstheEUhassettheselevelsextremelylowThismeansthatthetestcanonlybepassedifthescallopisshuckedpriortosaleandthisishavingaseriousimpactonthelivelihoodofdiversifnottheentiredivedscallopindustryTrawlingforscallopsdiscardingtheshellsandthepartsdeemedunfitthenfreezingthemeatandroeishigh-volumestuffScallopdiverscannotkeepupItrsquosadoublewhammyandthesnappingandclosingshellofalivescalloponceahallmarkofcarefulfishingisfastdisappearing
TheresultisthatscallopsarenowmorelikelytobefishedbydredgetrawlingwhichistheequivalentofploughingaredtractorthroughaJapanesepeacegardenScallopdiverswitnesstheseabedatfirsthandTheyproactivelymovescallopsndashmostimportantlytheyoungspecimensndashfromthepathsoftrawlerstolsquochuckypatchesrsquoThesearesafeareaswheretheconditionsarebetterforthemtoflourishastheyareallowedtospawnenoughtimesbeforetheyareharvestedThismethodoffishingisfundamentalinallowingstockstobereplenishedforthefutureGuyGrieveandhisfamilychosethetranquilandimmaculately
GuyGrieveandhisfamilychosethetranquilandimmaculatelycleanwatersoftheIsleofMulltosetupasustainableshellfishcompanyItpledgestosupportfishermenwhousesustainablemethodsinthehopethattheycancontributetowardstherecoveryofourseasTheawardsrollinforthiscompanyandwearepleasedtobeinsupport
MONKFISH
MonkfisharegreatmastersofdisguiseTheirenormousslimyheadandbodyserveaseffectivecamouflageontheseabedLookingakintoarocktheyattractpreythroughtheuseofadanglinglurefromtheheadThisabilitytoblendintotheirsurroundingscoupledwiththeirdistinctlackofgoodlooksmeantthattheywerenotpopularforeatingenablingthemtothriveinBritishwatersformanyyearsEventuallytheirsuperb-tastingmeatwasdiscoveredbyhungryhumanswhichsadlyresultedinfisheriesadoptingbeam-trawlingmethodstomeetthehighdemandInevitablythisledtoadeclineinnumbersThespeciesisnowrecoveringbutwewouldstillrecommendthatyousourcethemfromfishmongerssupportingsustainablefishingmethods
MonkfishCheekswithSaffronCauliflowerandAniseed
ThismagnificentdishcontainssomeveryfragrantspicesthattogethercreateasymphonyofflavoursWearefortunatetobeabletobuymonkfishcheeksdirectfromthefishermenviaKernowsashimiafishingcompanyinCornwallThisistheonlywaywecanguaranteethatourfishareeither
CornwallThisistheonlywaywecanguaranteethatourfishareeitherline-caughtorfromstaticnetsKernowsashimirsquosfleetdoesnotdredge-netanyofitscatchaprocessthatisharmfultothemarineecosystemMonkfishheadsareoftendiscardedatseaastheyareconsideredanugly
fishThiswastesaparticularlytastymorselintheformofthecheeksbutKernowsashimiishappytoobligeandyourlocalfishmongershouldbeabletogetholdofthemtooThecheeksareagooddealcheaperthanthetailwhichhaslongsincemadeitsepithetoflsquopoormanrsquoslobsterrsquoredundantThisanglingfishisarealbrutebutthemeatisexceptionalanditsfirmtextureiswhatmakesthisdishsogoodSaffronmakesasplendidcompaniontomonkfishwithitsionichintsof
seaairandfragranceoffishingportsMarkthegardenerhasbeengrowingthesaffroncrocusforafewyearsbutitisalabourofloveInautumntheflowersproducethreestrandseachyetunfortunatelyforMarktheydonotallbloomatthesametimeHehastoscrutiniseeveryflowertocheckwhethertheyarereadytopicksometimestheyareleftfortoolongandthestrandsareblownaway
SERVES4ndash6500gmonkfishcheeksrinsedandpatteddry12saffronstrandsfrac14vanillapodfrac12cauliflowertrimmedandsplitintofloretsstalkroughlychopped1tspgroundcardamom25mldoublecreamalittlegroundnutorrapeseedoil50gwinterpurslane(orotherwintersaladleaves)apinchofgroundmace
apinchofgroundmace4ndash6unsmokedstreakybaconrasherscookedtogarnish(optional)seasalt
FORTHEANISEDRESSING
40mlcidervinegarfrac12tspdriedaniseed(orgroundfennelseed)4tbsprapeseedoil1tspsmoothDijonmustardapinchofsalt
FirstmakethedressingHeatthecidervinegarinapanforafewminutesoveramediumheatRemoveaddtheaniseedandallowtocooltoroomtemperatureStrainthevinegarintoabowladdtheoilmustardandsaltandwhisktocombineTastetochecktheseasoningandaddalittlemoremustardifitneedsit
PutthemonkfishcheeksinabowlwiththesaffronMixtodispersetheyellowsaffronandsetaside
SlitthevanillapodopenlengthwaysscrapeouttheseedsandsetasidePlacethepodinapanofwaterthatwilltakeasteamerbasketandbringtoasimmerPutthecauliflowerstalkinthebasketplaceoverthewaterthencoverandsteamuntilverysoftThismaytake25minutesMeanwhileaddthecardamomtoaseparatepanofwaterandsteamthecauliflowerfloretsoveritfor10ndash15minutesuntiltenderRemoveandsetaside
WhenyouaresatisfiedthatthecauliflowerstalkiswellcookedtransferittoablenderandaddthecreamandsomesalttotasteBlendstoppingtoscrapedownthesidesoftheblenderwithaspatulauntilverysmoothAnyremaininglumpscanberemovedbypassingthepureacuteethroughafinesieveStirthevanillaseedsthroughthepureacuteeItcomestolifeatthismomentbecomingscentedandspeckledKeepwarmwhileyouassembletherestofthedish
Tocookthemonkfishheatalargeheavy-basednon-stickfryingpanoveramediumheatItwilltakeagoodfewminutestowarmthroughevenlysoresisttheurgetocookonituntilitradiatesheatAddenoughoiltothenow
resisttheurgetocookonituntilitradiatesheatAddenoughoiltothenowgoldenfishtocoatitlightlyandseasonwithsaltAddthecheekstothepanandcookfor5minutesoneachsideuntillightlycolouredandjustcookedthroughEnsurethatthefishiscolouringbutnotburningandadjusttheheatifneedsbeRemovethepanfromtheheatThefishcanrestintheheatofthepanwhileyouassemblethedish
ToservetossthewinterpurslanewiththeanisedressingSpoonthecauliflowerpureacuteeonto4servingplatesalongwiththefloretsandstackthefishalongsidewithapileofsaladleavesDustwithalittlegroundmaceandiflikedtopwiththecrispbaconrashers
daggerBritainhasahistoryofsaffroncultivationinthefieldsofNorfolkandSuffolkCornwallalsohadasaffron-growingindustryuntilthenineteenthcenturyandyoucanstillbuyCornishsaffroncaketodayThereisacommercialsaffronfarminNorfolkbutnotsurprisinglytheyregularlyselloutbeforethenextseasonevenbegins
RoastPartridgewithBreadandCheese
TherearetwocommonspeciesofpartridgeinBritainthenativegreyandtheFrenchred-leggedThenativebirdisararitythesedaysanditsFrenchrelativeistheonemostofuswillencounterAtaquickglancethepartridgelooksremarkablylikeaplumpmonocledgentndashanillusionthatisquicklyshatteredwhenitfleesinarapidscuttlepreferringtorunratherthanflyEscapedbirdsfromnearbyshootsregularlyappeararoundourciderbarn
andratherironicallygiventhisrecipeunderourhawthornhedgeWethinkpartridgesaretheperfectsizeforthehungrycookItisworth
followingtherulelsquoroasttheyoungpottherestrsquondashasomewhatbrutalmantrabutveryusefulnonethelessOlderbirdsarewonderfulinstewsandcasserolesslowcookeduntilthemeatistenderAyoungpartridgestillhasaslightlypliablebeakandclawsanditsbreastbonewillbesmallerthanthatofanolderbirdWenormallyhangpartridgeforfivedaysorsoinacooldryplaceThemixofflavoursandtexturesinthisrecipemightappear
overcomplicatedbuttheresultistremendousItscreationwasgreetedwithnothinglessthancomicair-punchinginthekitchenTheplumpbirdsitsonbreadsaucefragrantwithitsgentlehintofcloveThefondantpotatoesandcavoloneroprovidebutterandwelcomeacidityrespectivelyThehawthornjellyiscleansweetandtartflecksofOgleshieldcheesemarrywellwiththeflavourofclovesandthesweetnessofthehawthornOgleshieldcheeseismadeinSomersetbyJamieMontgomeryusingunpasteurisedmilkfromasmallherdofJerseysHewasheshistrucklesleavingacheesethatisverylikeracletteonlybetterThisdishisbestenjoyedwithaglassofourhouseVermouth(seehere)
ThebotanicalsinthedrinkgreetthecloveinthebreadsaucelikeanoldfriendwhilethecaramelinthehawthornjellymatchestheinitialsweetnessperfectlyTheadditionoforangetothisrecipecameaftertastingthevermouthwithwhatwethoughtwasthefinalversionHavingabloodorangehandyMatthewlayeredhawthornjellybreadsaucepartridgecheeseandapinchoforangezestinaspoonforeachofusandwealltookitinturnstoswigatthevermouthTheflavourcombinationsparkedimmediately(weshouldconfessthatthenegronicocktailisafavouritehereatBarleyWood)
SERVES44red-leggedpartridgesadrizzleofrapeseedoil4bayleaves4slicesofsourdoughbreadHawthornJelly(seehere)forbrushingandtoserve100gOgleshieldCheeseorotherraclette-stylecheeseofthehighestorderfinelyshaved
zestof1bloodorange(orordinaryorange)FondantPinkFirPotatoes(seehere)toserveseasaltandblackpepper
FORTHEBRININGSOLUTION
15litreswater90gseasalt2tbspjuniperberries4cloves2tspcorianderseeds1tspblackpeppercorns
FORTHEBREADSAUCE
300mlmilk2tbspdoublecream60gyellowonionroughlychopped2goodpinchesofgroundcloves1bayleaffrac12tspEnglishmustardfrac12tspsalt
75gstalebreadcutinto25cmcubes
FORTHECAVOLONERO
200gblackcabbage(cavolonero)orredkaleroughlychoppedadrizzleofrapeseedoil1tbspcidervinegar
PutalltheingredientsforthebrineinapanandbringtotheboilstirringtodissolvethesaltLeavetocoolandthenchillPlacethepartridgesinthechilledbriningsolutionmakingsuretheyarecompletelysubmergedandleavetheminthefridgefor1frac14hours
DrainthebirdsanddiscardthebrinePatthemdryonkitchenpaperandsetaside(Whileweareonthesubjectofchillingthevermouthoughttobeinthefridgebynow)TomakethebreadsauceputalltheingredientsexceptthebreadinasaucepanandbringtoasimmerCookgentlyfor10ndash15minutesuntiltheonioniscompletelysoftRemovethebayleafandclovestransferthemixturetoablenderandblitzuntiltheonionisincorporatedintothemilkAddthebreadandallowthebreadtosoakforacoupleofminutesbeforeblitzinguntilsmoothTasteandaddmoreseasoningifnecessaryForaverysmoothbreadsaucepassitthroughafinesievegentlypressingwiththebackofasmallladleKeepwarmuntilreadytoserve
Heattheovento200degCGasMark6LightlycoatthepartridgesinoilthenseasonwithsaltandpepperPlaceabayleafinthecavityofeachbirdandputthemonabakingtrayrestingeachoneonasliceofthebreadRoastintheovenfor12ndash15minutesuntillightlycolouredndashtheyshouldstillbepinkinsideBrushalightglazeofhawthornjellyoverthebirdsandreturnthemtotheovenfor3minutesLeavethebirdstorestinawarmplacefor10minutesbeforeserving
ForthecavoloneroheatafryingpanandaddafilmofoilAddthecabbageandseasonwithseasaltCookoveramedium-highheattossingregularlytopreventscorchinguntiltheleavesstarttowiltAddthecidervinegarandcookbrieflyuntilevaporatedRemovethecabbagefromthepanandsetaside
ToassemblethedishspoonsomebreadsauceontoeachservingplateFlake
ToassemblethedishspoonsomebreadsauceontoeachservingplateFlakeovershavingsoftheOgleshieldtheywillmeltastheylandonthesaucePlacethebirdsontopthenaddthecavoloneroalongwithdollopsofhawthornjellyScatterovertheorangezestandservewiththefondantpotatoesAdmireyourdinnerfornolongerthanittakestopourthevermouthtableside
WASSAIL
OurannualWassailtakesplaceinearlyJanuaryTheCeltsviewedthistimeofyearasthegatewayfromdarknesstolightwhenallofnatureawakesAsrecentlyastheearlytwentiethcenturywholevillagesndasheldersandinfantsalikendashwouldcongregateintheorchardsandsingshoutandbangoutroughmusiconpotsandpanstowakethetreespiritsfromtheirwinterslumberandwardofftheevilspiritsthatmightharmthetreesrsquofertilityItwasachancetothrowasidetheacceptedhierarchiesandasenseofchaosprevailedCentraltothiseventwastheWassailcupacommunaldrinkofmulledciderandspicethatwaspassedfromhandtohandtotoasttheappletreeOnedrinkthatwerituallypassaroundwhenwewassailisLambrsquosWool(seehere)
LambrsquosWool
WassailisacuriouseveningatBarleyWoodamixoffoodmusicfireandgnarledappletreesOnedrinkthatwealwaysserveatWassailisaconcoctioncalledlambrsquoswoolndasharichsmoothcombinationofaleapplesandspicesthatpre-datesandoutstripsmulledciderandisperfectforcoldoutdooreveningsThisdrinklikemanyrecipesthathavebeenpasseddownandaroundhas
amistyparentagebutthenameseemstooriginatefromtheCelticlamhrsquossuilmeaninghandandeyeWecanonlyimaginethatthisalludestotheco-ordinationyouwillneedtomakethisdrinkitsfrothytoplooksjustlikelambrsquoswool
SERVES46largeBlenheimOrangeapples(orBramleys)coredandleftwhole15litresBoxSteamBreweryDarkandHandsomeorotherdarkbeer250gdemerarasugarfrac12nutmeggrated1thumb-sizedpieceoffreshgingerpeeledandfinelysliced1cinnamonstick1staranise
Heattheovento160degCGasMark3Placetheapplesonabakingsheetandbakefor1houroruntilsoftRemoveandleavetocool
PutthebeeranddemerarasugarinadeeppanandbringtoasimmerstirringtodissolvethesugarAddthespicesandsimmerfor10minutesSqueezetheapplefleshfromtheskinsandpassitthroughafinesieveRemovethespicesfromthebeerthenwhiskintheapplepulpoverahighheatBringtotheboilstirringallthetimeThehardwhiskingwillcreatethewoollytoponthelambrsquoswool
ServeinglassessilvertankardsorthecommunalWassailcupndashifyouhaveone
ForustheWassailisachancetocelebratethediversityofourorchardanacknowledgementofthemagicofapplesarebellionagainstthecolddarkdepthsofwinterItisacrucialpartofourrelationshipwiththelandandwefeelitisimportanttoinvolveandengageeveryonecitydwellersandcountryfolkalikewiththeseasonsForthatreasonwehaveendedupwithabeautifulandcompletelymadfestivalthatcentresonfoodfriendshipandhappinessRestoringthisancienttraditiontoBarleyWoodhasbeenagreatsuccesswithhundredsoflocalsandBristoliansjoininguseachyearItwasourfriendsandartisancheesemakersTimandAngelaofHomewoodCheeseswhoguidedusthroughourfirstWassailWassailnightiswithoutfailoneofthecoldestnightsoftheyearatthe
WalledGardenThefrostformssilentlyovertheorchardsandvegetablepatchesAtfirstwedonrsquotnoticeitTorchbearersleadtheWassailprocessiontakingustotheoldesttreeintheorchardItisthenthatwelookaroundandrealisewearesurroundedbyshimmeringiceThentheceremonybegins
realisewearesurroundedbyshimmeringiceThentheceremonybegins
JanetrsquosJungleJuiceIcewithCheddar99Flake
Weareveryfortunatetobesituatedrightinthemiddleofoneofthemostprominentcider-producingareasinSomersetWehaveagreatnumberofso-calledciderapplesinourorchardandhavehadafairshotatmakingourownciderThebestresultshavecomefromusingoneofourfavouritevarietiesMorganSweetDespiteafewgoodattemptsthoughwecanhonestlysaythatweareyet
tomatchtheciderproducedbyWestCroftinBrentKnollSomersetItisresponsibleforthedelectablebeverageaptlynamedJanetrsquosJungleJuiceoraswelazilycallitJJJThiscloudyciderhasprovedextremelypopularatour
welazilycallitJJJThiscloudyciderhasprovedextremelypopularatourannualWassailItismadefromtraditionalEnglishciderapplescollectedfromWestCroftrsquosownorchardwheremanyofthetreespre-datetheFirstWorldWarTheyarealltraditionalSomersetciderapplesKingstonBlackMorganSweetSheeprsquosNoseBrownSnoutChiselJerseyYarlingtonMillDabinettandMichelinWestCroftdoesnotaddsugartomakeJJJstrongerandthenwateritdownasmanycidermakersdoInsteaditismadefrom100percentcider-applejuiceWerarelyhaveanyleftbytheendofWassaileveningwhichiswhywealwayskeepbackasupplylsquoforstaffrsquoIthelpsfocusthemindwhenalltheguestshaveleftandwearefacedwithamajorclear-upintheearlyhoursofthemorningWecameupwiththisfrozendessertintheweekfollowingourfirst
WassailItseekstoencapsulatesomeofthemainelementsofWassaileveningallowingustocontinuethefestivitiesforthatlittlebitlongeralbeitinamorerefinedandsubduedmanner
SERVES6ndash81litreJanetrsquosJungleJuice(orgoodroughdryscrumpycider)60gcastersugar65mlciderbrandy150gKeenrsquosCheddarcuttorectangularlsquo99rsquoflakeshapesmintleavespreferablyappleminttogarnish
PutashallowmetaltrayinthefreezertochillCombinethecidersugarandciderbrandyinabowlandstiruntilthesugardissolvesPourthemixtureintothechilledtrayandplaceinthefreezerLeaveuntilitisbeginningtofreezearoundtheedgesandthenstirthoroughlyEvery30minutesorsostirwithaforkcrushinganylumpsuntiltheiceisfirmbutnotfrozensolidndashthiswilltakeabout3hoursTransfertoacontainerwithalidandstoreinthefreezer
ServetheiceinteacupsorglasseswiththeCheddarlsquoflakesrsquoaddedgarnishedwithmintleaves
RabbitConfitwithLovageBreadcrumbs
Makingaconfitorcookingslowlyinfatisatraditionalwayofpreservingmeat(seehere)AttheWalledGardenwedoitprimarilyinautumntopreservethelegsofthegamethatcomesinThiscarriesusthroughuntilwinterwhenproduceismorescarceShortlyafterwearrivedattheWalledGardenwediscoveredtoour
dismaythattherewasnolovagegrowingthereSoMarkplantedlovageseedsalongthewestwallinthealreadydiverseherbgardenandwewaitedbuttheplantsfailedtoappearWesoonfoundoutthatlikeallgoodthingslovageneedstimetodevelopForayearMatthewharvesteditfromtheplantoverrunninghisowngardenathomeandbroughtitintoservicetherestaurantThisplanthasbeenuprootedduringtwohousemovesndashaprocessthatleftMatthewrsquoshandsreekingoflovageforaweekafterwardsLovageisveryversatileandeasytogrowonceestablishedsodogiveita
goTheseedsarefullofcharacterandflavourandcanbedriedandpreservedwhiletheleavesaddanewdimensiontosaladsandstocksThisrecipeisanidealwaytousethevaluableseedswhichhavecelerytonesthatmatchthesweetrabbitfleshndashifyoudonrsquothaveanylovageseedsyoucouldtryceleryseedsinsteadMakingtherabbitintoaconfitkeepsthesometimes-dryfleshchin-drippinglyjuicyForperfectlycrispbreadcrumbsyouneedtothinkintermsofevendryingratherthantoastingFollowthemethodbelowforsuccesseverytime
SERVES42ConfitRabbits(seehere)150gstalebreadcutinto25cmcubes15glovageseedsroughlycrushedinapestleandmortar2eggyolkslightlybeatentoastedsourdoughbreadtoservebakedonions(seemethod)toservemixedsaladleavestoserveDarkPlumChutney(seehere)toserveHeattheovento180degCGasMark4Ifyouhavemadetheconfitrabbitinadvancewarmthejarinapanof
lightlysimmeringwatersothefatbecomesliquidthenremovethelegsandlaythemonabakingtray
BlitzthebreadandlovageseedstogetherinafoodprocessortomakefinebreadcrumbsSpreadthecrumbsevenlyonabakingtrayandplaceintheovenCookfor6ndash10minutesremovingthetrayevery2minutesandturningthecrumbsItwillquicklybecomeapparentwhereyourovenhashotspotsandcoolerareasContinueuntilthecrumbsareevenlydriedandlightlycoloured
BrushtherabbitwiththebeateneggyolkandcoatwiththepungentbreadcrumbsPlaceintheovenfor8minutesthenremoveandleavetorestfor2minutes
Servetherabbitwithlightlytoastedsourdoughbreadandifyoulikesomebakedonions(placewholeskin-ononionsintheovenforanhouruntiltender)saladleavesandDarkPlumChutney
CONFIT
ThistechniqueissoinvaluablesosimplesoversatileandonceyoumasterittherewillalwaysbesomethingrobustandepicureaninthefridgetoheatupatthelastminuteinanemergencyConfitisaFrenchtechniquethatwasdevelopedbeforerefrigerationandtranslatesaslsquopreservedrsquoAlongsidecuringsmokinganddryingitisinvaluabletoanyonewhowantstoeatwiththeseasonsGamecanbepreservedthroughthewintermonthswellintospringToughercutssuchasducklegsbenefitfromthelongcookingprocesswhilethefatinwhichtheyarecookedcanbeusedafterwardsAlayerofporkfatsealsthetopcompletelyandconfitcanbestoredinacoolcellarwithnoriskofspoilageThefatcanalsobereusedagainandagainreheatedwithalittlemoresaltaddedContainerssuchastall-sidedpreservingjarscanningjarsandKilnersarebesttoreheatjustwarmthejarinapanoflightlysimmeringwatertoloosenthefatremovetheducklegsandbakeintheovenfor8ndash10minutesIfyoursquoreseriousaboutyourconfitasmallinvestmentofthirtyquidcan
buyahomevacuumsealerWrappedinpolythenebagsmeatneedsonlyatablespoonoffatarounditandtheairissuckedoutofthepackagingThisrecreatesthesameairlessenvironmentasthatofthefatstoragemethodabovewhilerequiringlessspaceinthefridgeandlessoftherawingredientSaltandspicesareusedfirsttodrawmoisturefromthemeatFollowthe
spiceguidebelowforsuggestedseasoningsbutdotryyourownblendsTheweightofsaltistheoneconstanttoadheretosetat4gperlegscaleaccordingtothisBlendorcrushthesaltsandspicestogetherleavingthewoodybayleaveswholeCoveryourchosencutsinthissaltmixtureforaminimumof12andmaximumof36hoursWashthemeatundercoldwatertoremovetheresidualsaltandherbsPlaceaboutthreekilosofgoosefatinatall-sidedovenproofpanHeatthefattoloosenitandlaythelegsinitAddmorefatifneededasthelegsneedtobefullysubmergedSettheovento90degC(orthelowestpossibleovensetting)andcookfor5ndash6hoursTheoilshouldnrsquotbubbleatthistemperaturesoturndownthetemperaturebyfivedegreesifthatrsquoshappening
Oppositeareourrecommendedquantitiesfordifferenttypesofmeatusing
OppositeareourrecommendedquantitiesfordifferenttypesofmeatusingthecookinginstructionsgivenaboveWehavealsogivenarecipeforconfittomatoesasthiscookingmethodconcentratestheflavoursinspectacularfashion
ConfitMeats
FORCONFITDUCK
3kggoosefat12ducklegs48gfineseasalt12gstaranise6gblackpeppercorns3gclovepowder6gfennelseeds6bayleaves
FORCONFITCHICKEN
3kggoosefat12chickenlegs48gfineseasalt12gjuniperberries6gblackpepper3gclovepowder6bayleaves
FORCONFITRABBIT
frontandhindlegsfrom4rabbits3kggoosefat48gsalt12glovageseeds6gblackpeppercorns
3gfennelseeds8driedlavenderflowers6bayleaves
ConfitTomatoeswithRuffleBasil
TomatoesareblimminrsquomarvellouswhencookedlikethisAlthoughnotsubmergedinfattheyarecookedoveralayerofrapeseedoilwithalittlemoredrizzledoverthemessentiallypreservingthemwithfat
6tomatoesrapeseedoilbasilorthymeseasalt
Preheattheovento120degCGasMarkfrac12
CutacrossinthebottomofthetomatoesanddropthemintosimmeringwaterforacoupleofminutesRemovewithaslottedspoonandpeelofftheskinsQuarterthetomatoesscoopoutthefleshandseeds(youcanretaintheseformakingtomatoessenceseebelow)andyouareleftwithtomatofleshshards
LineabakingsheetwithfoilBrushwithrapeseedoilandplacethetomatoesontopDustwithsaltandyourchosenherbPlaceintheovenfor90minutesCheckthemattheendofthistimeandturnthemovertheyneedtobemostlydrybutstillpliableReturntotheovenforafurther10minutesifneedsbe
TomaketomatoessenceplacetheseedsinafinesieveandsquashthroughwithaspoonPlacetheliquidoveralow-mediumheattoboilslowlyitwillreduceandreachtheconsistencyofpassataAddapinchofsaltandsugartothisintenselyflavouredsavourysauceUseasagarnishforanyfoodthatpairswithtomato
BeefBrisketSlow-roastedinCoffeeSaucewithValorMash
UsingthehumblercutsofmeatisanEthicureanprerequisiteBrisketisarelativelyinexpensivecutallowingustomaximisethebeastrsquosworthandminimiseourcostswhileeatingexceptionallywellAskyourbutchertoboneandrollitwithallitslovelycollagenandfatintactCollagenwillonlybreakdownataround70degCsobrisketneedsalonggentlecookAmeatthermometerwillhelpnoendinperfectingthisroastMoistureisalsovitalandthiscreatesampleopportunityforseasoningwithalesandsaucesTheroastedsmokyrichnessofcoffeemakesitoneofbeefrsquosclosestyet
largelyoverlookedalliesOurcoffeesupplierisExtractrunbythreeenthusiastswhoroastalloftheircoffeeinavintage1955cast-ironProbatroasterSamDavidandMarkrebuiltandconditionedthisfinecontraptionthemselvesanditlooksasifitcouldhavebeenbuiltbyWallaceandGromitWeregularlytakeourstafftoExtracttoseetheentireprocessfromrawbeantocupandtoloseafewhoursinconversationwithexperts
SERVES415kgbeefbrisketrolledandtiedalittleoilasmallbunchofthymeseasalt
FORTHECOFFEESAUCE
140gtomatopureacutee500mlwater100mlespressocoffee2tbspcidervinegarfrac12tspsmokedpaprika1tbsppaprika1tspgroundcumin1chipotlechillideseededandcrushed
FORTHEVALORPOTATOMASH
15kgValorpotatoes(DesireeRemarkaandKingEdwardalsoworkwell)peeledandcutintoeven-sizedchunks125mlmilk
125gbutter
Heattheovento220degCGasMark7RubthebrisketwithoilandsprinklethethymeleavesoverPlaceitinashallowroastingtrayandroastfor30minutesuntilcolouredslightlyRemovefromtheovenandlowerthetemperatureto140degCGasMark1
MeanwhilemixallthesauceingredientstogetherTransferthebriskettoadeeproastingtinandpouroverthesauceCoverthetintightlywithfoilusing2layersifnecessarytocreateatightsealReturntotheovenandcookforabout4hoursuntilverytenderifyouhaveameatthermometeritshouldregister70degC
ForthemashputthepotatoesinapanofcoldwaterwithatablespoonofsaltandbringthemveryslowlytoasimmerCookuntilverysoftbutnotfallingapartDrainthroughacolanderplacethecolanderoverthepanandreturnthepantotheswitched-offhobndashtheresidualheatfromthecookerwillallowthepotatoestosteamdryTheycanbeleftfor10minutesorsowhileyouheatthemilkandbutter
Placethemilkandbutterinapanwithfrac12teaspoonofsaltandheatgentlyuntilthebutterhasmeltedPassthepotatoesthroughapotatoricerintothewarmedbutterandmilk(apotatoricerisaninvaluabletoolforcreatinglighteven-texturedmashonceyoursquovetriedoneyoursquollwonderwhyyouevermademashanyotherway)Stirtocombinethentastetodecidewhetheryouwouldpreferalittlemoresalt
Whenthebeefisreadyremovefromtheovenandleavetorestforabout15minutesbeforecarvingServewiththemash
PigeonBreastswithBeetrootPearlBarleyandBordelaiseSauce
TheironyofservingpigeonandpearlbarleytogetherisnotlostonmanyofourcustomersparticularlythefarmerswhoeatwithusTheyhaveseenmanyagreedywoodpigeonfeastingontheirbarleycropBordelaisesauceisaslowlyreducedmixofstockandredwineWeliketouseDetroitbeetrootwiththepearlbarleyasitcontainsthemostmoleculesofgeosminthesmellthatwerecogniseasmoistsoil
SERVES44woodpigeonbreastsremovedandskinned(savethecarcassestouseforstockifyoulike)
alittleoil4largehandfulsofkalelargestalksremovedaknobofbutterseasaltandblackpeppersmokedsalttoserve(optional)
FORTHEBEETROOTPEARLBARLEY
300gpearlbarley1mediumbeetrootpeeledandcutinto1cmcubes200mlbrownchickenstock(seehere)FORTHEBORDELAISESAUCE
400mlredwine35gshallotsfinelychopped60gcarrotsfinelychopped40gmushroomsfinelychopped1tbspchoppedparsley2sprigsofthyme8peppercorns1bayleaf500mlbeefstock(seehere)
Rinsethepearlbarleyinasieveundercoldrunningwaterforafewminutes
RinsethepearlbarleyinasieveundercoldrunningwaterforafewminutestoremoveexcessstarchPlaceinasaucepancoverwithcoldwaterandbringtotheboilDrainandrinseundercoldrunningwateragainReturnthebarleytothepanandcovergenerouslywithwaterBringtotheboilreducetheheatandsimmerfor15minutesAddthebeetrootandcookfor20ndash30minutesuntilthebeetrootisaldenteandthebarleytenderDrainandreturnthebarleyandbeetroottothepanAddthechickenstockandcookoveramediumheatfor5ndash10minutesstirringregularlyuntilthebarleyhasabsorbedthestockandisglazedinappearanceSeasonwithsalttotaste
MeanwhilemakethebordelaisesaucePutalltheingredientsexceptthebeefstockinasaucepanandbringtoasimmerCookuntiltheliquidhasreducedtoabout2tablespoonsAddthestockandsimmerfor10ndash15minutesthenstrainintoapanCookoveramediumheatuntilthesaucelightlycoatsthebackofaspoonSeasonwithsalttotaste
Heattheovento200degCGasMark6LightlyoilthepigeonbreastsandseasononbothsidesPlacealargeovenprooffryingpanoverahighheatOncethepanissmokinghotaddathinfilmofoilPlacethepigeonbreastsinthepanskinned-sidedownLeavefor15secondsoruntillightlybrownedunderneaththenturnthemovergentlypressdownwithafishsliceandtransferthepantotheovenforabout3minutesthemeatshouldstillgivealittlewhenyoupressitwithafingerRemoveandtransfertoawarmplatetorestfor10minutesMeanwhilecookthekaleinalargepanofboilingsaltedwateruntiltender(nomorethan45seconds)Drainwellbeingsuretostrainoffasmuchliquidaspossibleandtosswiththeknobofbutter
Spoonthebarleyonto4servingplatesandarrangethekalearounditSliceeachpigeonbreastinto3andplaceontopPourthesauceoverandsprinklewithalittlesaltorsmokedsalt
SteamedLemonSolewithFondantPinkFirsGoldenBeetrootandNasturtiumRemoulade
ThedelicatefleshandsubtleflavouroflemonsolearebestpreservedbysteamingInanattempttoprotecttheyoungerfishandpreventdepletionofthespeciesCornwallhasenforcedabyelawthatonlylemonsolelongerthan25cmcanbefishedTherearenosuchrestrictionsintheEUsoyoushouldtryasfaraspossibletobuysolethathavebeenfishedsustainablyWheneveryoubuyfishitrsquosworthcheckingtheMarineConservationSocietyrsquosonlineguidetoseafood(wwwfishonlineorg)whichratesthesustainabilityofeachspeciesonascaleofonetofiveWehadforawhilebeendebatingwhatwerethebestaccompaniments
tofishwithallofusagreeingthatcapersfeaturedhighonthelistUnfortunatelytheytendtogrowonlyinwarmerclimatesandwewantedtouseahomegrownalternativeNasturtiumseedsfittedthebillperfectlyIfyoudonrsquothavenasturtiumsinyourgardenyoucouldofcourseusecapersRemouladeisamayonnaise-basedsaucetypicallymadewithfinelydiced
cornichonsorothergherkinsUsingwhatwehaveavailablecansometimesproveachallengebutinthisinstanceitproducedauniquesweetgoldenbeetrootsauce
SERVES42lemonsolefilleted400gpurplesproutingbroccoliseasalt
FORTHEGOLDENBEETROOTANDNASTURTIUMREMOULADE
1smallgoldenbeetroot215mlcidervinegar1tspgroundfennelseeds1eggyolk1tablespoonorchardhoney1teaspoonEnglishmustard1tspseasalt350mlrapeseedoil
350mlrapeseedoil1tbspPickledNasturtiumSeeds(seehere)chopped1tbspchoppedflat-leafparsley
FORTHEFONDANTPINKFIRS
1tbsprapeseedoil500gPinkFirApplepotatoes(orotherwaxypotatoes)cutinto4cmpieces250gbuttercutintocubes
FirstmaketheremouladePeelthebeetrootcutitinto1cmcubesandsaltitgenerouslyLeaveforabout10minutestodrawoutalittlemoistureThiswillaidthecrunchRinsethebeetrootbrieflyandputitinabowlBring200mlofthevinegartotheboilwiththegroundfennelpouritoverthebeetrootandleavetocool(Thevinegarwhichwillhaveanearthyflavourfromthebeetrootcanbesavedforsaladdressings)Placetheeggyolkhoneymustardsaltandtheremaining15mlvinegarinabowlandwhiskeitherwithanelectricwhiskonfullspeedfor1minuteorbyhandforalittlelongerThiswillallowtheacidstogotoworkontheeggproteinsAddtherapeseedoilinaveryslowtrickleandwatchtomakesureitisbeingfullyincorporatedwhilethemixercontinuestospinoryourarmisablurOncethemixturehasemulsifiedyoucanpourtheoilinalittlefasterEventuallythemixtureshouldhaveathickwobblyconsistencyDrainthebeetrootandstiritintogetherwiththepicklednasturtiumseedsandparsleyChilluntilreadytoservendashitwillkeepforacoupleofdaysinthefridge
Forthefondantpotatoesheattheovento200degCGasMark6PlacealargeovenprooffryingpanoveramediumheatuntilhotAddtheoilfollowedbythepotatoesandcookstirringuntilthepotatoesaregoldenalloverSeasonwithsaltandaddallthecubesofbutterplusasplashofwaterAllowthebuttertomeltthencoverthecontentsofthepanwithadiscofgreaseproofpaperPlaceintheovenandcookfor30ndash35minutesuntilaknifewillpassthroughthepotatoeswithlittleresistance
Seasonthesolefilletsrollthemupandspikeon4skewers(seephotographsopposite)YouwillneedatallpanwithalidtocookthefilletsontheirspikesBringafewcentimetresofwatertoasimmerinthepanthenstandtheskewersinitCoverandcookgentlyfor7ndash8minutesuntilthefishisjustcookedthroughRemovefromthepanandkeepwarm
Cookthebroccoliinapanofboilingsaltedwaterfor3ndash4minutesuntiljusttenderthendrainCarefullyremovethesolefromtheskewersandserveonthefondantpotatoesaccompaniedbythebroccoliandsplashesoftheremoulade
daggerNasturtiumsareavaluableplanttohaveinanygardenTheleavesattractblackflyandslugswhichmeansthattheseunwantedvisitorsleaveothernearbyplantsandvegaloneThewholeplantisediblewiththeflowerstastingmoremagnificentthanwildrocketTheirpepperytastemakesthemworthyoftheirnamewhichmeanslsquonosetwistrsquo(PickledNasturtium
Seedspicturedseehere)
SeaRobinwithFennelButterSauceandHerbedPinkFirs
GurnardusedtobesounprofitableforfishermenthatitwasmostlyusedasbaitordiscardedThankstoenvironmentalcampaignersandchefshoweverthespecieshasrecentlybeensuccessfullychampionedasfoodanditisindeedsuperblytastyItiswidelythoughtofasanuglyfishbutwethinkthatitspoutingmouthandbigblackeyeswouldnotbeoutofplaceinacartoonThegurnardrsquosancientnameoflsquosearobinrsquomadeitsinclusiononourmenu
essentialasitseemedsopertinenttoourlocationLegendhasitthatrobinsaretheguardiansoftheorchardsSearobinsgainedtheirnameduetotheirabilitytoproducesoundswiththeirswimbladdersandattachedmusclesItseemsthattheyareasrelentlesslyvocalasourlandrobinswhichsingallyearroundThedelicate-tastingskinofthisfishmakesasuperbmatchforthe
liquoricehintoffennelseedsFennelcanbeseenfloweringbetweenJulyandOctoberincentralandsouthernareasofEnglandandalongcoastlinesinWalesTheseedscanbekeptandusedallyearroundYouwillappreciatethataniseedadditiontoyourfoodinthedepthsofwinterwhenotherinterestingingredientsarescarceThesauceisavariationonaclassichollandaisemadewithroughlyhalf
theusualamountofbutterWeliketoservethiswithkale(seehere)
SERVES42gurnardscaledandfilletedadrizzleofoilaknobofbutterfineseasaltandblackpepper
FORTHEFENNELBUTTERSAUCE
100mlfishstock(seehere)75mlwhitewine1tspfennelseeds185gcoldbuttercutinto1cmcubes
adashofcidervinegar3eggyolks
FORTHEHERBEDPOTATOES
600gPinkFirApplepotatoes(orotherwaxypotatoes)cutinto4ndash5cmpieces
1tbsprapeseedorgroundnutoilaknobofunsaltedbutterahandfulofparsleychopped
Ensurethegurnardfilletsareasdryaspossiblebeforescoringtheskinwithasharpknifewithcuts1cmapart(Seeoppositeforourtipondryingthefishfillets)Tomakethesauceputthefishstockwhitewineandfennelseedsinasmallpanoveramedium-highheatandboiluntiltheliquidhasreducedto3or4tablespoonsStrainitintoaheatproofbowltoremovethefennelseedsandleavetocoolfor5minutes
AddtheeggyolkstothereducedstockandwhiskuntilfullyincorporatedSitthebowloverapanofbarelysimmeringwatermakingsurethewaterdoesnrsquottouchthebaseofthebowlWhiskthemixtureuntilitbecomesairyandthickndashlookforsoftpeaksasyouwouldwitheggwhitesAtthisstagewhiskinthebutterapieceatatimeensuringeachisfullyincorporatedbeforeaddingthenextAfterawhilelargerquantitiesofbuttercanbeaddedeachtimeSeasonwithfineseasaltandvinegartotasteTakethepanofftheheatbutleavethebowloverthewaterwhileyoucookthefishandstirthesauceregularlytopreventaskinforming
CookthepotatoesinboilingsaltedwateruntiltenderthendrainPlacealargeheavy-basedfryingpanoverahighheatWhenitishotaddtheoilquicklyfollowedbythepotatoesTosstocoatlightlywiththeoilandseasonwithfineseasalt
CookstirringuntilgoldenalloverthenaddthebutterandparsleyTossthroughandremovefromtheheat
Heatalargeheavy-basedfryingpanoveramedium-highheatVerylightlyoiltheskinofthegurnardfilletsandseasonwithalightevenlayeroffineseasaltandcrackedblackpepperPourathinfilmofoilintothehotfrying
seasaltandcrackedblackpepperPourathinfilmofoilintothehotfryingpanandaddthegurnardskin-sidedownCookoveramediumheatwithoutturningormovingthefishfor2ndash3minutesuntiltheskinturnsgoldenbrownFlipthefilletsovertakethepanofftheheatandaddalargeknobofbutterLeavetorestfor5minutesndashthefishwillfinishcookingintheheatofthepanToservespoontheherbedpotatoesintothecentreofeachplateandpressdownwiththebackofthespoontocrushthemslightlyPlacethegurnardfilletsontopandspoonagenerousamountofthesaucearoundthepotatoes
LiquidshighinaciditysuchascitrusjuiceandvinegarcanbeusedasflavourenhancersmuchlikesaltItrsquosnotnecessarilythetasteofvinegarorcitrusthatwewantinthesaucebuttheyliftrichheavyflavoursprovidingawelcomeacidityandacleaner
tasteWhenusedasaseasoningvinegarshouldnotbenoticeableIfitisobviousthenyoursquoveusedtoomuch
ToachieveacrispskinonthefishasmuchmoistureaspossiblemustberemovedbeforecookingLaythefilletsskin-sideuponaboardRunaknifebladeangledslightlydownthefilletfromtheheadendtothetailendusingtheknifeasasqueegeetopushthemoisturedownandoutoftheskinUsekitchenpapertowipeoffthemoisturethatcollectsontheknifeandatthetailendofthefishRepeatuntiltheskinfeelsdrytothetouchFlipthefillets
overandwithasharpknifecuteachoneinhalfataslightangleTurnthefilletsskin-sideupagainandscoretheskinwithcuts1cmapartAverysharpknifeorascalpelwillcomeinhandyhereBesurenottocutintothefleshndashitrsquosonlytheskinyou
wanttoscoreThishelpsstopthefilletscurlingintheheatofthepan
PineappleTurmericandGingerGlazedHamwithlsquoPiccalillirsquo
SaladsdonotgetmuchbetterthanthisoneGammonandpineapplehavebeenafamiliarcombinationonpubmenusfordecadesThereissciencebehindthispairingasweoftenfindwhenweanalyseclassicfoodcombinationsPineapplecontainstheenzymebromelainwhichisanaturaltenderiserformeatMexicoalsohasabromelainandporkloveaffairascanbeseenatthetacosalpastorstandsThisoutrageouslyscoffablestreetfoodcomprisessmallcorntacosfilledwithshavingsofporkthathasbeengrilled
underpineappleThejuicedripsontothemeatasitcookscaramelisingandtenderisingitintheprocessIntheUKthepineappleusedtobeasymbolofwealthandhospitality
ParticularlyduringtheeighteenthcenturypossessionofthisspikyfruitwassoprestigiousthattherewasaproliferationofpineapplepitsincountryhousesacrossBritainApineapplepitwasademonstrationoftremendousgrowingskillanddedicationTheenergyneededtogrowthistropicalfruitismonumentalndashtheprocessinvolvedamixtureofmoistheatfromfermentingoakbarkorhorsemanureintheeartharoundthepineappleandanintricatesetoffurnacesandchimneysforadditionalheatTherearetheruinedremainsofapineapplepitonprivatelyownedlandverynearBarleyWoodItbelongedtotheslave-tradeabolitionistWilliamWilberforceafriendandallyofourBarleyWoodbenefactorHannahMorewhobuiltBarleyWoodHouseinthelateeighteenthcenturyDuringDecemberpineapplesfromtheCaribbeanareinseasonTryto
findFairtradefruitthatsmellssweetatthebaseThisindicatesthatithasbeenpickedclosetoripenessaspineapplesdonotripenfurtherafterbeingpicked
SERVES8GENEROUSLY
1largepineapple250ggoldengranulatedsugar3tbspgroundturmeric50gfreshgingerpeeledandfinelydiced1ndash2kgfree-rangecookedham
FORTHEPICCALILLI
200gcidervinegar100gcastersugar20corianderseedsfrac12tspdriedchilliflakes100gshallotstoppedandtailedslicedinhalfthroughthetopsandseparatedintoindividuallayers1tbspgroundturmeric
100gcauliflowerflorets
100gGlazedStarAnisecarrots(seehere)Heattheovento200degCGasMark6TopandtailthepineappleandcutawaythespikyskinCutthefleshawayfromthecoreandplaceinablenderorfoodprocessorPulsetillsmooththenstrainthemixturethroughasievepressingwiththebackofaspoontoextractthejuiceReserve35mlofthejuiceforthesaladdressing(youwonrsquotneedtherest)PutthepulpinabowlandmixwiththesugarturmericandgingerThisistheglazingmixturefortheham
Placethehamflat-sidedownonabakingsheetandspreadtheglazingmixturethicklyoveritCookfor30ndash40minutesuntiltheglazeiscaramelisedSetasidetocool
ForthepiccalilliheatthevinegartoboilingpointaddthesugarandstiruntildissolvedAddthecorianderseedschilliflakesandshallotsandbringbacktoasimmerRemovetheshallotswithaslottedspoonandsetasidetocoolAddtheturmerictothehotliquidfollowedbythecauliflowerfloretsBringtoasimmerthenstirwellRemovefromtheheatandleavethecauliflowertocoolintheyellowvinegarItwillpickupthecolouroftheturmericasitcools
FORTHESALADDRESSING
85mlcold-pressedrapeseedoilorgroundnutoil25mlcidervinegar35mlpineapplejuice1tspgroundstaranise1tspDijonmustard2pinchesofsalt
FORTHESALAD
200gMiikepurplegiantleaves(orothermustardysaladleaves)100gsaladleaves(weuseamixtureofredfrillwatercressandlandcress)100gwinterlettuceleavesabunchofcorianderabunchofchrysanthemumleavesifavailable
Tomakethedressingplacealltheingredientsinablenderandblenduntilemulsified
emulsified
ArrangeallthesaladleavesonservingplatesreservingafewofthesmallerredfrillforgarnishIfithelpstocuttheMiikepurplegiantdownthendosoSlicethehamandplaceacoupleofslicesontopoftheleavesintertwinedwithpiecesofthedeconstructedpiccalilliFinishbylightlydrizzlingoverthedressingandgarnishingwiththereservedleaves
GlazedStarAniseCarrots
300gcarrotspeeledandcutinto25cmchunks20gsaltedbutter2staranise1tspsugarpinchoffineseasalt
HeatapanoveramediumheatThepanshouldbebigenoughtoholdthecarrotsinasinglelayerWhenthepanishotaddthebutter(thebuttershouldsizzlebutnotburn)ThesecondthesizzlingsubsidesaddthestaraniseandcarrotsTossthecarrotsthroughthebuttertocoatevenlythenaddthesugarandsaltAddabout330mlcoldwatertothepan(enoughtoalmostcoverthecarrots)andturntheheatuptohighItmaytake5ndash10minutesforthewatertoalmostfullyreduceandthenthecarrotswillbegintosizzleagainStirthecarrotsvigorouslysothattheybegincaramelisingevenlyonallsidesWhentheyareanevengoldencolourremovefromthepanandservestraightaway
daggerAnumberofapplestastingremarkablylikepineapplecanbefoundinBritishorchardsExamplesinourorchardareRibstonPippinand
BlenheimOrangePitmastonPineapplewasmostlikelygrownfromaGoldenPippinseedlingbyJohnWilliamsin1845atPitmastonHouseinWorcesterThissmallsweetandrussetapplehasremarkablepineappletonesandyellowflesh
WINTERSALADS
MarkthegardenergrowshiswintersaladleavesinpolytunnelsatthebottomofthewalledgardenTheyrsquoreonaraisedplatformhoveringoverthefieldbelowDuringwinterwecanusuallytellwhetherMarkisinbyatrailingplumeofsmokefromthelittlestovethatheatshiskettleHealsothrowstogetheranexcellentvegetablestewthatwilloftensitcookingonthestoveformostofthemorningTheviewthroughthetunnelsandoutoftheopendoorisawonderfulsightoverlookingthefieldbelowitgivestheimpressionofanentrancetoanotherworldThetunnelsareplantedwithanumberofleavesthatprovidefresh
succulenceandawelcomevitamininjectiontotheshortchillydaysofwinterInthesaladonhereweuseMiikepurplegiant(Brassicajuncea)ThisleafisclassedasavegetableandinsomeculturesisboiledandsteamedWeprefertoeatitrawandrelishitshotmustardflavourItisalsoanindicatoroftheweatherasitturnsadeeperpurpleasthetemperaturedropsOppositeMarkhasplantedwinterpurslane(Claytoniaperfoliata)AnativeofNorthAmericaitisalsoknownasminerrsquoslettuceasitwaseatenbyminerstofendoffscurvyIthasalily-pad-liketopandatendertrailingstemMatureleavesseethebloomingofatinyflowerthatpiercesthecentreInrecentyearsMarkhastakentogrowingchrysanthemumsfortheir
leavesTheyhaveadistinctivetangthatresemblespineapplePrisingitfromMarkrsquosmuddyfingersisatrickybusinessbutwellworthitAddingmoremustardheatandcolourisredfrillndashajaggedvarietycontainingtwoexcellentcompoundssinigrinandgluconasturtiinWhenthesinigrinintheleafisexposedtocompoundsintheairitreactsandcreatesmustardoilItisthisverymustardyoilthatgivesthedishonhereitsfireaperfectcomplementtothesweettenderham
EcclesCakeswithDorsetBlueVinnySauce
TherelationshipbetweensweetandsavouryisaninterestingoneSaltmakessweetingredientstastelessone-dimensionalsoyouperceivethemasbeingmoreflavourfulthantheyreallyarePerhapsthemostcommonexampleofthecombinationisourlong-standingtraditionofeatingcheesewithfruitNoonewouldraiseaneyebrowifyousuggestedaccompanyinganuttyRussetapplewithasliceofCheddarInYorkshirendashandinsomepartsofAmericandashservingapplepiewithapieceofcheeseiscommonplaceThisdishsprangfromtheBritishtraditionofpairingEcclescakeswitha
sliceofLancashirecheeseWestartedexperimentingwithanEcclescakerecipewhenweweretryingtofindsuitablepuddingsforasherryandgamenightattherestaurantWethoughtDorsetBlueVinnywouldbeaworthylocalalternativetoLancashirecheeseasitisequallycreamyyethasmoredepthHavingworkedoutthecorrectcheese-to-sherryratioforthesauce
depthHavingworkedoutthecorrectcheese-to-sherryratioforthesaucewepoureditovertheEcclescakesthathadjustcomeoutoftheovenhopingtheresultwouldbemorethanpalatableItworkedremarkablywellandhasbecomeourWestCountryversionofthetraditionalnortherndishWefeaturethisdessertregularlyonourdaytimemenuandfindthatsome
customersapproachitwithadegreeofnervousnessButweareyettomeetanyonewhodoesnotthoroughlyenjoyitswell-balancedquirkinessThesaucehasbecomesopopularthatcustomersoftenrequestitasanaccompanimenttowhichevercakehappenstobeonthedessertmenuWemustobservethatnoteverycakeisentirelycompatiblewiththesaucebutwhoarewetocurtailourcustomersrsquoinventiveness
MAKES14CAKES50gbutter90gdarksoftbrownsugar1frac34teaspoonsgroundmixedspice(seehereifyoursquodliketomakeyourown)270gcurrants
50gCandiedPeel(seehereorusegood-qualityboughtpeel)finelychopped1quantityofFlakyPastry(seehere)orgood-qualityshop-boughtpuffpastry1egglightlybeaten
demerarasugarforsprinkling
FORTHEDORSETBLUEVINNYSAUCE
250mldoublecream100gcastersugar40gDorsetBlueVinnycheese(orSticheltoncheese)crumbled50mlsweetsherrysuchasPedroXimeacutenezorBristolCream
Tomakethesauceputthecreamsugarcheeseandsherryinapan(includehalfthecurrantsifyouwanttoenrichtheflavouroftheEcclescakes)andheatgentlyuntilthecheesehasmeltedandthesauceissmoothStrainthroughasieveandsetaside(reservethecurrantsfortheEcclescakes)Thesaucecanbekeptinthefridgeforupto2weeks
TomaketheEcclescakesplacethebuttersugarandmixedspiceinasaucepanandheatthroughgentlystirringoccasionallyuntilthesugarhasmeltedintothebutterRemovefromtheheatandstirinthecurrants
meltedintothebutterRemovefromtheheatandstirinthecurrants(includingtheonesusedforthesauce)andthecandiedpeelSetasidetocool
Heattheovento180degCGasMark4TakethepastryoutofthefridgeandsetitonalightlyflouredsurfacewithoneoftheshortendsnearestyouRollouttoabout3mmthickUsingan11cmpastrycuttercutoutasmanyroundsasyoucanDividethefillinginto40gportionsandplaceoneportioninthecentreofeachcircleofpastryThismayseemlikealotbutitmakessensewhenyouareeatingthecakesNextyouneedtoenclosethecurrantmixtureinthepastryThiscanbequitetrickybutyouwillfindatechniquethatworksafteralittleplayingWedoitbypinching4lsquocornersrsquoofthecircletogetheroverthecurrantmixtureandthengentlyfoldingintheexcesspastryWhereyouarepinchingthepastrytogetherwillbetheundersidesoaslongasthefillingiscompletelyencloseditdoesnrsquotneedtolookperfectThepastryshouldsealitselfbutifnecessarybrushitverylightlywithwater
PlacetheEcclescakestherightwayupontheworksurfaceandshapeeachoneintoaneatroundwithaflattopThismayrequireasmallamountofmanipulatingUsingasharpknifeslash3horizontallinesacrossthetopLightlybrushthetopoftheEcclescakeswithbeatenegganddustwithdemerarasugarBakefor18minutesoruntilthepastryisgoldenbrownandcookedallthewaythroughTransfertoawireracktocoolfor10minutesthenservewiththesauceDingdangdoo
daggerMadefromthemilkthatisleftafterskimmingoffthefattomakebutterDorsetBlueVinnyisathriftywartimecheesebornoutoftheneednottowasteanythingItretainsitscreaminessbyreintroducingsemi-skimmedmilkpowdertothemilkonceitreachestheappropriatetemperatureLegendhasitthatthebacteriausedtobeintroducedbydraggingmouldyhorseharnessesthroughthemilkbeforeaddingtherennetandstoringthecheeseondampbagsnexttomouldybootsSadlyitisboringpenicillinbywayofblue-mouldsolutionnowadays
MilkStoutandChocolateSteamedPudding
ThisrecipeisacombinationoftwoofourfavouritethingsmilkstoutandaBritishsteamedpuddingWhenwefirstopenedTheEthicureanwedrankBristolBeerFactoryrsquoschilledmilkstoutonthelawnoverlookingthegardenIthadthemostremarkablebalanceofsweetnessandroastmaltthatwehadevertastedSincethisboozysummereveninglsquomilkstoutonthelawnrsquohasbecomeshorthandforlsquoHurryupletrsquosgoandhaveabeerrsquoMilkstoutwasfirstbrewedontheBristolBeerFactorysiteinthe1900s
anditsrecentrevivalwasanexcellentmoveDuringthebrewingprocessunfermentablelactosesugarisaddedgivingthebeeraresidualsweetness
unfermentablelactosesugarisaddedgivingthebeeraresidualsweetnessThispuddingservedwithaninappropriateamountofdoublecream
shouldberegardedasanewBritishclassic
SERVES6160mlBristolBeerFactoryrsquosmilkstout150gbuttercutintocubes235gcastersugar45gcocoapowder160gplainflour85mlsouredcream1largeegg2tspvanillaextract1frac12tspbicarbonateofsodadoublecreamtoserve
PlacethemilkstoutandbutterinasaucepanoverthelowestpossibleheatandwhiskuntilthebutterhasjustmeltedItisimportantnottooverheatthemixtureorthebutterwillsplitresultinginanoilypuddingAddthesugarandstiruntildissolved
Siftthecocoapowderandflourintothemixturein2lotswhiskingthoroughlyaftereachtoblendwellSetaside
LightlywhiskthesouredcreameggvanillaandbicarbonateofsodatogetheruntilcombinedAddthistothestoutandflourmixtureandwhiskbrieflytoincorporateoncemore
Thoroughlygreasea12litrepuddingbasinwithbutterAddthepuddingmixtureTakeapieceoffoillargeenoughtocoverthetopofthebasingenerouslyfoldingathickpleatinthecentre(thiswillallowthepuddingtoexpandduringsteaming)andplaceitonthebasintuckingtheedgesfirmlyundertherimPutthebasininasteamerbasketandsetitoverapancontainingabout10cmboilingwaterCoverandsteamoveralowheatfor2hourscheckingthewaterlevelevery30minutesandtoppingupwhennecessary
Removethebasinfromthesteamerandleavetostandfor5minutesTake
Removethebasinfromthesteamerandleavetostandfor5minutesTakeoffthefoilrunaknifearoundtheedgeofthepuddingthenturnitoutontoaplateYoursquollneedplentyofcreamasthispuddingisseriouslythirsty
PedroXimeacutenezandWhiskywithVermouthSmoke
EveryyearweholdasherryandgamenightpairingvarioussherrieswithatastingmenuofgamePedro-Ximeacutenez(PX)isalwaysthefavouritesherryandwelovepairingitwithEcclescakes(seehere)ThisvelvetysherryisthecolourofdarkwoodandwithitsraisinandcaramelflavourstastesalmostlikeChristmaspuddinginliquidformCombiningPXwithawhiskysuchasMacallan10YearOldFineOakandalittlevermouthsmokecreatesatotallyuniquecocktailEvenafterthelastfewdropshavebeendrunkmanycustomersaskforthedecantertostayonthetablesothattheycanbreatheinthelastofthetreaclesmoke
SERVES2100mlPX(welikeBodegasGutierrezColosiaPedroXimeacutenez)50mlwhisky(welikeMacallan10YearOldFineOakwhisky)
TOMAKEICESPHERES
WashlongballoonsoutbeforefillingthemwithwaterTieofftheballoonsandthenusestringtoseparatethemintothesizeofspherethatyouwouldlikeRememberthattheywillexpandastheyfreezeUsingdistilledwaterwillmeanthattheiceiscompletelyclearbuttheystilllookimpressivewhenmadewithtapwater
JackusesasmokeguntomakethisdrinkChillthePXandwhiskybystirringtogetherwithiceinamixingglassNextfilladecanterwithsmokeJackusesoakchipsthathavebeenusedtooakourVermouth(seehere)andthendriedPourthechilledliquidintothedecanterandpopinthestopperThesmokeshouldgraduallyformadensecloudPourintosmallglassesfilledwithplentyofice(weliketoputanicesphereineachglassseeleft)
Ifyoudonothaveaccesstoahandsmokeryoucanmakethisdrinkinabarbecuesmoker(seeTinCanandSolderingIronApproachhere)Placethedrinkinacontainerwithasmuchsurfaceareaaspossibleandleavetosmokefor1hour
NOTEWehaveexperimentedwithupscalingthisrecipeandbottlinglargerquantitiesthenleavingtomature(theNegronionherealsoupscales
wonderfully)WereuseSipsmithrsquosginbottles(thanksSipsmith)AtthetimeofwritingwehaveabottleofthiscocktailthatwasmixedthreemonthsagoWehavenoticedarealdevelopmentinthecomplexitiesofflavourastheelementsbegintofeatherinitbecomesdifficulttosensewhereonecomponentendsandanotherbegins
FennelSeedandGingerHotChocolate
WefirsttastedthiscombinationofchocolateherbandspiceattheAbergavennyFoodFestivalOurstallhappenedtobenexttothatofthechocolatierPaulAYoungandheverykindlygaveusafewofhiscreationstotasteWewerestruckbythesweetfragrantalmostmedicinalqualityofhismilkchocolatewithfennelseedandgingerOncethecoldweathercaughtupwithusatTheEthicureanweexperimentedwithafewhotchocolaterecipesandsettledonthisonewhichwethinkcapturestheessenceofPaulrsquosideaRomanescofennelseedsareharvestedatBarleyWoodwhentheseed
headsturnbrownThewholeheadscanbeputinapaperbagtodryAfterafewweeksastrongshakewilldeposittheseedsatthebottomofthebagTheseseedsareattheirabsolutebestwhentheyarestillalittlegreenTomakethefennelsugarwhizequalquantitiesofgranulatedsugarandfennelseedstogetherinablenderorfoodprocessorItcanbeaddedtoallsortsofdesserts
SERVES2COMFORTABLY
400mlmilk100gdarkchocolatewith70ndash73percentcocoasolidsgratedplusalittleextratofinish(weuseOriginalBeanschocolate)1tspgroundginger
20gdarkmuscovadosugarapinchofsalt2tspfennelsugar100mldoublecream
Gentlyheathalfthemilkinapanandaddthegratedchocolategingermuscovadosugarsaltandmostofthefennelsugar(saveapinchforsprinkling)StiruntilthechocolatehasmeltedintothemilkthenwhiskintheremainingmilkandthecreamDonotallowthemixturetoboilbutbringittoacomfortabledrinkingtemperatureIfyouhaveahandblendersubstitutethisforawhiskeitherwayforafrothyheadagoodamountofwhiskingisneeded
Servesprinkledwiththeremainingfennelsugarandafewshardsofchocolate
IfyouhaveaccesstoanespressomachinecombinethegratedchocolatewiththegingersugarsaltfennelandjustenoughmilktomakeathickpastethenheatitusingthesteamwandWarm2mugsandpourthethickspicedchocolateintothemSteamtheremainingmilkwiththecreaminametaljugusingthesteamwandThetrickistointroduceenoughsteamnearthesurfaceofthemilktocreateawhirlpoolthisshouldgenerateverylittlenoiseKeepahandcuppedaroundthesteamingjugWhenitistoohottoholdcomfortablystopsteamingTapthejugontheworktopseveraltimestopopanysurfacebubblesandthenswirltominimiseanyseparationbetweenfoamandliquidPourthisglossymilkontothethickchocolateAfteralittlepracticeitisrelativelysimpletocreateafewpatternsThissteamingprocesswillcreatethemicro-foamneededtomakeasilkyhotchocolate
RecipeList
NettleSoupwithCaerphillyStGeorgersquosMushroomswithAsparagusRibwortPlantain
MushroomJellyandAppleJellySweet-cureMackerelwithMorelsSpeltSodaBreadand
HorseradishAsparaguswithToastedSesameandHollandaiseSauce
ClearHamHockBrothwithPoachedEggsCaerphillyandCiderWelshRabbit
SmokedChipotleChilliesSmokedRoeDeerLoinwithWildRocketClampedCarrots
HoneyedWalnutsandWoodSorrelCurdCheeseCucumberFlatBeanAniseedandSesame
CrabSaladwithNewPotatoesPickledCarrotandSmokedPaprikaMayonnaise
SpringRadisheswithAnchovyCregravemeFraicheTroutwithKelpandShiitakeMushroomStockRiceFlatBeans
andSeaKaleGoatMeatballsMashLovageButterandMustardGreens
OxTonguewithSwedeParsleyandCiderVinegarOxTonguewithCauliflowerGilliflowerandHazelnuts
SaltMarshLambwithTidalGreensSteamedRabbitPudding
PorkJuniperandBlackIPAPiePearlBarleywithOldDemdikeandStGeorgersquosMushroom
RhubarbandCustardChocolateandSaltCaramelBrownieswithCherryand
ElderflowerSauceElderflowersyrup
StrawberryandRoseLemonadePuddingwithSaffronandCiderBrandyCustard
TheEthicureanVermouthBotanicalsVermouth
RoseLemonadeTheEthicureanCocktail
Negroni
SPRINGINTHEWRINGTONValehasauniquefeelThereisasenseofimminentactivitythatmomentbeforesomebodytellsyousomethingtheyhavekeptsecretforalongtime
ColourcomesfirstandthedaffodilsarestilloutinlateMarchbetweentheoutsidewallandthelowerorchardthickyellowcarpetsintheshadowsoftheappletreesJackisoutstalkingroedeerwithAlanDownagoodfriendandexperiencedstalkerbeforethenewshootsandleavesprovidetoomuchcoverDuringspringmorningsbeforeserviceMatthewandIainrolldownthesleevesoftheirchefrsquoswhitesandpickyoungnettleshootswithglovedhandsCarriedupthroughthegardeninapplecratesthenettlesarecarefullycleanedandendupasabrightgreensoupLumpsofGorwyddCaerphillyarefloatedonthesurfacemeltingtoanirresistiblegelatinoustexture
KaleradishesandrainbowchardareallreadyWefrythekaleinahotpanwithplentyofcidervinegarandsaltMarkplantstheradishesasacompanionplantbetweentherowsofgarlicWeslicetheseredrootsintosaladsndashsomearefieryandneedacoolingsomethingtosubduetheirheatTherubychardrequireslittlecookingandissmotheredunderagenerousmeasureofhollandaiseasabreakfasttreat
AsspringcontinuesonitspaththebluebellsflowerreplacingtheyellowdaffodilsTheyareadeepvioletblueNotmanypeopleknowthattheVictorianswouldstiffentheircollarswithcrushedbluebells
NexttheblossomcomesasuresignofthenewseasoneachblossomapotentialfruitFirstuparetheplumsanddamsonsTheseguardthewestwallsprayedoutwardsontheircanedespaliersPearsandcherriesquicklyfollowwhileapplesareslowerblossominginAprilQuincecomesnextweareproudofoursingletreewhichprovidesuswithenoughfruitformembrilloallyearlongMedlarsarelastcream-colouredflowersthatwillbecomeuglyfruitbutwithexcellentflavourPaulacanbefoundwalkingbetweenthetreesforecastingourfuturecropandthebumblebeesareoutfor
betweenthetreesforecastingourfuturecropandthebumblebeesareoutfornectar
AprilcanmeanonlyonethingtheasparagusseasonWepatrolthebedsatBarleyWoodkeeneyeshuntingforthefirstelusivespearstopushuptheirtightcrisptipsThispreciouscropisdevouredwithpoachedeggsorstraightfromthepanwithplentyofbutter
StGeorgersquosDaymarksthetimetolookforStGeorgersquosmushroomsTheonlyforagedmushroomsafetobeeatenrawithasanaturalflavourcompanionintheformofribwortplantainThisseedheadfoundinourorchardisafirmfavouriteofoursandthetwotogethermakeawonderfulseasonaldelicacy
MayheraldstheyellowflowersofmeadowvetchlingandcreepingcinquefoilfavouritesofthegrizzledskipperbutterflyPrimrosesarealsofloweringintheshadeoftheBramleytrees
InJunetheherbgardenlooksbeautifulWepinchoutthenewgrowthtomakebotanicalteasforourhousevermouthMarkrsquosstrawberriesbegintocropandweuseupthelastjarofthepreviousseasonrsquosjaminourroselemonadesteamedpuddingThejampanissetfirmlybackonthestove
NettleSoupwithCaerphilly
Thissouprsquosstrikingemeraldcolour(nettleshaveoneofthehighestlevelsofchlorophyllinthevegetablekingdom)mightleadyoutothinkofitasalightstarterDonotbefooledItisanextremelywholesomesoupthatcouldhelpyourunamarathonRomansoldiersaresaidtohavebroughttheirownsupplyofnettlestoBritainasarichsourceofproteintofuellongmarchesinthecoldwetclimatePerhapsthatiswhythissoupissopopularwithstaffattherestaurantwhenonbusyspringdaysyouwillcatchusallsippingamugofittokeepusgoingTheCaerphillyaddsacreamytextureWefavourGorwyddCaerphilly
madebyourfriendstheTrethowanfamilyattheirfarmsituatedbetweenLampeterandAberystwythItisoneofourall-timefavouriteBritishcheesesandweconsideritsWelshrabbitcapabilitiestobeunrivalled(seehere)Oysterspairremarkablywellwithnettlesandwersquodrecommendserving
thissoupwithoystersdroppedintoitatthelastmomentThereisanionicqualitytothemboththatjustsingswhentheyareeatenincombinationAchunkofbreadwithapatofsaltedbutterisalsoanexcellentaddition
SERVES4
alittlevegetableoil500gonionsthinlysliced250gceleriaccutintosmallcubes250gcarrotscutintosmallcubes1litrefishstockorvegetablestock(seehere)100ndash120gnettletipsfreshlypicked(theymustbeveryyoung)200gCaerphillycheesepreferablyGorwyddcutintosmallcubesrapeseedoilfordrizzlingseasalt
PlacealargepanoveramediumheatAddathinfilmofvegetableoilfollowedbytheonionsceleriacandcarrotsCoverandsweatforabout5minutesuntilthevegetableshavestartedtosoftenbutarenotcolouredAddthestockbringtoasimmerandcookuntilthevegetablesaresoftTheyshouldbesoftenoughtoblitzeasilyanythingbeyondthathoweverandtheflavourwillbegintodull
flavourwillbegintodull
TransferthesouptoablenderinbatchesthatfillitnomorethanhalffullandblitzuntilsmoothaddingthenettleswiththefinalbatchPourthroughafinesieveintoacleanpanChecktheconsistencyofthesoupifyouwouldpreferalooserfinishstirinalittlemorestockSeasonwithseasalttotasteandreheatverygentlyifthenettlesareheatedfortoolongtheyturnaveryunappealingshadeofdarkgreenServeinlargebowlsgarnishedwiththecubesofCaerphillyandatinydrizzleofrapeseedoil
daggerThebasetothissoupiswhatisknownasamirepoixAmirepoixreferstoonionscelery(orinthiscaseceleriac)andcarrotsintheratioof211ItisaveryclassicstartingpointincookeryandresultsinanoveralltastethatisgreaterthanthatofitsworthyingredientsWeoftenusethisratioofvegetablesforstocksandbasesofsauces
MUSHROOMS
WhenweopenedtherestaurantwereliedonseveralprofessionalforagerstobringussteadysuppliesofmushroomsWecannotemphasiseenoughtheimportanceofusingexpertsinyourownlearningprocessIfyouareeverindoubtaboutthetypeofmushroomyouhavefounddonottakeachanceTheconsequencescanbefatalItisacommonmistaketoforgetoneofthefinestwild
mushroomsnativetoBritainndashStGeorgersquosmushroomTheyarefoundaround23AprilStGeorgersquosDayandareavailableuntilearlyJuneTheirdistinctivearomahasbeenaptlydescribedasthesmellofBritishfieldsThismakesperfectsenseastheyoftenforminaringcompletelyhiddenunderlonggrassIfyoufindtheirsmelloverwhelmingpleasedonrsquotgiveuponthemWeareconvincedthattheytastebestwheneatenrawsotrythesmalleronesfirstasthesmelldevelopswithageandyoumightfindthemlesspungentFailingthatifyoucookthemtheirscentisgreatlycamouflagedWehaveheardthatsomerestaurantsfeelnervousabouthavingthemonthemenuyetwithexpertidentificationtherereallyisnoreasontodepriveyourselfofsuchaninterestingdelicacyStGeorgersquosistheonlyforagedmushroomthatcanbeserved
rawandwewouldalwaysadviseyoutocookothervarietiesInitiallyrawStGeorgersquostasteoffreshcucumberbuttheflavourdevelopsintosomethingmoreakintomelontowardstheendWeservethemwithasparagusandribwortplantainanotherforagedplantthatiseasytofindasitgrowscommonlyonlawnsandgreenareasSadlyitisnowconsideredaweedbutpleasehelpusreintroduceittoBritishcookingItiseasytoidentifythebulbshaveelongatedkernel-liketipsandonceyouspotititisimpossibletomissItinitiallytastesslightlybitterbutthisdevelopsintoanuttywoodyflavourndashoftenlikenedtothatofcepmushroomsndashthattiesinperfectlywiththeearthywoodland
notesoftheStGeorgersquosFormoreofourthoughtsaboutmushroomsseehere
StGeorgersquosMushroomswithAsparagusRibwortPlantainMushroomJellyandAppleJelly
WeusedtoforageformushroomsasoftenaspossiblebeforemovingtotheWalledGardenAlwaysladenwithtoomanybooksonthesubjectwewouldsetoutwithourlurcherhopingtotrainhertofindsomedelicaciesOurlackofexperiencemusthaverubbedoffonherasshewasmoreinterestedinstickspineconesandsquirrelsGraduallywelearnedtoidentifychickenofthewoodsparasolsandbeefsteakfungusForagingbecameoneofourfavouriteautumnalactivitiesAtfirstwetravelledfurtherawaythanweneededinourquesttobecomeamateurmycologistsWithtimethoughwelearnedthevaluablelessonthatthebestingredientsareusuallytobefoundonyourdoorstep
SERVES4
abunchofasparagus20smallribwortplantainflowerheads1tspmintleavespreferablyspearmint12ndash16summerpurslaneleavesorothersaladleavesfineseasalt
FORTHEMUSHROOMJELLY
250gStGeorgersquosmushroomsapinchofsaltfrac12tspagaragarpowder
FORTHEAPPLEJELLY
250gapplejuicefrac12tspagaragarpowder
FirstmakethemushroomjellyRemovethestalksfromthemushroomsandsetthecapsasideCleanthestalksthoroughlyandthenchopfinelyPuttheminapancoverwith250gwaterandsimmerfor15minutesStrainthecookingliquorthroughafinesieveintoacleanpanpressingwiththebackofaspoontoextractitallDiscardthestalksMeasurethecookingliquorandaddadashmorewaterifnecessarytotakeitbackupto250gSeasonwith
addadashmorewaterifnecessarytotakeitbackupto250gSeasonwithsaltrememberingthatinthisinstancealittlegoesalongwayReturnthepantotheheatandstirintheagaragaruntildissolvedTheliquorneedstoboilbrieflytohydratetheagarandactivateitsgellingpropertiesPourintoasmallplasticboxWeuseonethatgivesafinaldepthofabout1cmsowecancutthejellyintocubesbutfeelfreetoexperimentLeavetocoolthenplaceinthefridgeuntilsetItwillkeepfor4days
FortheapplejellyheatthejuiceinapanstirintheagaragarandbringtotheboiluntildissolvedLeavetocoolandthensetinaplasticboxasdescribedabove
TrimtheasparagusbyfindingthenaturalpointwherethestalksnapsclosetothebaseandbreakingitoffHaveapanoffast-boilingsaltedwaterreadyandabowloficedwatertooCooktheasparagusintherapidlyboilingwaterforupto2minutesbutnomoreRemovethespearsandchillthemintheicedwatertheywillretaintheirbrightgreencolour
Finelyslicethereservedmushroomcapsandlaythemon4platesDustwithfineseasaltLaytheasparagusspearsontopofthemushroomsCutthejellyintosmallcubesandaddateaspoonofeachflavourtoeachplatealongwiththeribwortflowersmintleavesandpurslaneEncouragementforallamateurmycologists
Sweet-cureMackerelwithMorelsSpeltSodaBreadandHorseradish
ThecombinationofmackerelaniseedandhorseradishoffersawiderangeofflavoursThecurestopsthemackerelinitstrackspreservingafreshionicsnapshotoftheoceanHorseradishisafamiliarcompaniontomackerelsinceitswarmthisgoodwithoilyfishInterestinglyfishareattractedtothesmellofaniseedaswellastastingsuperbwithitMackerelareadelicatefishthatspoilquicklysochooseline-caughtones
andmakesuretheyareveryfreshThesmalloneswiththebrightesteyesarebestandareoftencheaperthanthelargerfishTheflavourofmorelmushroomsisextraordinaryndashreminiscentofthe
richnessofbeefThemushroomsreleasesporesthatarepickedupandcarriedbythewindSearchingformorelsisadeeplyengrossingtasksowatchoutforlowhangingbranchesasyouhuntWehavefoundthemunderashandsycamoretheyfavourdyinganddeadelmsTheyhavehollowfruitingbodiesandahoneycombstructureBewareoffalsemorelsknownasElfinSandalsThehorseradishsauceisausefulstandbythatcomesoutwheneverwe
haveleftoversirloinorbrisketItrsquosalsoverygoodoncoldlambsmokedfishandhamandexemplaryeatenwithSalt-bakedBabyBeets(seehere)andoxtongueDiguptherootofahealthyhorseradishwashawayresidualsoilandpeeltherootYouwilllikelybeleftwith50ndash100g(Ajarofgratedhorseradishisafinesubstitute)WhengratedhorseradishreleasesacompoundcalledsinigrinandenzymesitmeetsintheairimmediatelybreakthisdowntoformmustardoilThearomaisguaranteedtohaveyouinrabbinicallyintensetearsOursmallkitchenbecomesariotoffauxwailingandlaughterwheneverwepreparethisThetaskisnowseenasanaidtocamaraderieandteambuilding
SERVES44mackerelfilletspinbonesremoved10gdriedmorelmushrooms(orceps)400mlcidervinegar1tablespoonaniseed300gcastersugar
300gcastersugarfineseasalt
FORTHESPELTSODABREAD
200gbrownspeltflour200gwhitespeltflour50gfineoatmeal(oruseporridgeoatsthathavebeenblendeduntilfine)1tspbicarbonateofsoda1tspsalt1tbsphoney375mlbuttermilk(ifunavailablemix25mlwhitevinegarwith350mlmilkandleavetorestfor5minutes)
25gbuttermelted
FORTHEHORSERADISHSAUCE
1horseradishrootfinelygrated2tbspcidervinegar4tbspcregravemefraicirccheorsouredcream1teaspoonchoppedchives1teaspoonchiveflowersseasalt
Laythemackerelfilletsflesh-sidedownonabedoffineseasaltandchillfor2hourstocurethenrinseThisgivesafirmer-fleshedresult
Rehydratethemushroomsbysteepingtheminnear-boilingwaterwithasplashofthevinegarfor10minutesStrainreservingtheliquorandthencheckeachoneisfreeofsoilandsandTheliquorthatremainswillbedelicatelysmokyandtrulyflavoursome
WarmtheaniseedthroughinadrypanuntilitspitsandcracksthencarefullypourthemushroomliquorintothepanleavinganyresidueofsoilorsandbehindItwillboiluprapidlyasithitsthehotpansotakecareatthispointTheevaporationwillintensifytheflavourofthemushroomstockAddthevinegarandheatthroughthenaddthesugarandstiruntildissolvedAddthemorelmushroomsandremovefromtheheatAllowthismixturetocoolthenpouritoverthefishfilletsPlaceinthefridgeforatleast2hours
coolthenpouritoverthefishfilletsPlaceinthefridgeforatleast2hoursandupto6hoursThesimple-to-makespeltsodabreadcanfillthisgapquitecomfortably
Heattheovento200degCGasMark6MixallthedryingredientsforthebreadtogetherinalargebowlthenmakeawellinthecentreAddthehoneybuttermilkandmeltedbuttertothewellandmixwithawoodenspoonuntilwellcombinedPutthedoughintoa900gloaftin(ora23cmspringformcaketin)linedwithbakingparchmentandplaceintheovenBakefor15minutesthenreducetheoventemperatureto160degCGasMark3andbakefor30minuteslongerTurntheloafoutontoateatowelandtapthebaseitshouldsoundhollowIfnecessaryreturntotheovenforafewminuteslongerCooltheloafonawirerackcoveringitwithateatowelifyoupreferasoftcrust
CombinethegratedhorseradishvinegarandapinchofseasaltStrainthroughasievediscardingtheliquidthencombinewiththecregravemefraicirccheorsouredcreamSeasontotastewithsaltandtopwiththechivesandthepurple-huedchiveflowersThesweetaniseandmorelmackerelcannowbeliftedfromitssouseandservedwithchunksofbutteredsodabreadandtheirresistiblehorseradish
AsparaguswithToastedSesameandHollandaiseSauce
InaquietcornerbeyondthegardenwallsshelteredononesidebyasetofimposingcobnuttreesandguardedontheotherbydenseVictorianbayhedgesyouwillfindoneofourfavouriteingredientsgrowingsilentlyinitssandybedFormostoftheyeartheasparagusbedslookdesolateandgreylikeminiaturedunesinsomeforeignlandTheirdrabappearancemeansthattheyareoftenoverlookedbyvisitorstotheWalledGardenHowevertheyareregularlydisturbedbysquirrelstryingtoburythecobnutstheyhavelaboriouslycollectedfromtheneighbouringtreesWhentheasparagusspearsbegintogrowandweseetheirshyheadsstartingtopokeoutitisanintenselysatisfyingfeelingThenewsthattheasparagusisreadyforpickingtravelsfastwhichisprobablywhyitisinvariablytheitemwerunoutoffirstonthemenuNothingreallypreparesyouforthetasteofasparagusfreshlypickedfromthegarden
pickedfromthegardenUnfortunatelytheoriginalasparagusbedsattheWalledGardendidnot
survivethehardyearswhenthegardenwasallowedtofallintodeepdisrepairReplicasoftheoriginalswerebuiltin1999ThebedsareunusualbecausetheyareraisedndashafeaturethathelpsstoptherootsdrowninginsoddenclaysoilThevarietyisunknownbutwedoknowthattheywereplantedwiththeemphasisonflavourratherthansizeMatthewisconvincedthatasithasanunusualpurpletingetothetipandwhitebaseitmustbeFormbyasparagusfromFormbyinMerseysideWethinkhejustmissesthenorthwestalittlebuttheydobothlovesandysoilsoperhapsheisontosomethingTobeabletocutfreshasparagusfromthecornerofthegardeneverymorningandshareitwithourcustomersisoneofthethingsthatmakesusfeelveryluckytobealiveWechoosetoscattertoastedsesameseedsoverthisdishastheyaddasoftnuttycrunchtoadelicateingredientPeopleareoftenputoffbytheseemingcomplexityofhollandaisesauce
butthemethodoverleafoffersaneasywaytoachieveaconsistentresulteverytimeWeflavouritwithvintagecidervinegarinsteadofthemoretraditionallemonjuiceandfinditaddsanewdepthandaslightlyoakytasteWealsousesaltedbutterratherthanunsaltedOurfavouriteisMarylandwhichisproducedinSheptonMalletrelativelyclosetousandisquitesaltywithroughlytwopercentsaltWefindthatthesaltinessofthebutterbalancestheinherentacidityofthevinegarAlternativelyyoucoulduseanunsaltedbutterandseasontotastewithfineseasalt
SERVES4
2tbspsesameseeds4sprigsoftarragon20asparagusspearstrimmed
FORTHEHOLLANDAISESAUCE
3eggyolks1tbspvintagecidervinegarsuchasOstlerrsquos125gchilledsaltedorunsaltedbuttercutinto1cmcubesseasalt
Firstmakethehollandaisesaucefillasaucepantwo-thirdsfullwithwaterandbringtoarapidboilPuttheeggyolksandvinegarinaheatproofbowlandwhiskforabout1minuteuntilpaleandfluffyTakethepanofboiling
andwhiskforabout1minuteuntilpaleandfluffyTakethepanofboilingwaterofftheheatandsetthebowloveritensuringthebaseofthebowlisnottouchingthewaterQuicklyaddallthebuttertothebowlandwhisksteadilywithaballoonwhiskuntiltheheatfromthewatermeltsthebutterandcookstheeggsAfterafewminutesofconstantgentlewhiskingthehollandaisewillthickenWhenitistheconsistencyofathincustardtakethebowloffthepanandcontinuewhiskinguntiltheconsistencychangestothatofanimmaculatevelvetycustard
ToastthesesameseedsinafryingpanoveralowheatuntiltheyarelightgoldenbrownOncetheybeginbrowningtheycanburnveryeasilysokeepyoureyeonthemandstirregularlyforanevencolourRemovefromthepanandleavetocool
PlacethetarragoninapanlargeenoughtofitasteamerbasketontopAdd7ndash8cmofboilingwaterplaceonamediumheatandputthesteamerbasketonitWhenthewaterissimmeringaddtheasparagustothebasketcoverandsteamfor3ndash4minutesuntilthespearsaretenderbutretainabitofbite
Toserveplacethespearson4servingplatespouroverthehollandaiseandgarnishwiththetoastedsesamePoachedeggs(seehere)wouldmakeaworthyadditiontothisdelightfulstarter
ClearHamHockBrothwithPoachedEggs
ThisbrothisamarvellouslynourishingclearandbalancedliquidToachievesuchclarityweneedtoactlikewaterfollowingthepathofleastresistanceexercisingpatiencewegetwhereweneedandtherewardistwofoldwithstockasclearaswaterfromababblingmountainbrookandasdeepasPoseidonrsquosrealminflavourWhenthepoachedeggyolkisbrokenthedishchangesbeforeyoureyesandanewdepthofrichnessbecomesobvioustothetongueThebrothmustbemadewellinadvanceasithastobefrozensoonafter
its5hoursinthepanandthendefrostedovernightinthefridgeThismayseemalongprocessbutonceyoursquoveexperiencedtherewardsandknowwhatrsquosinstorethenexttimewillbeabreezeYouwillendupwithmorestockherethanyouneedforthisdishbutitkeepswellinthefreezerWecookharicotbeansinitanduseittorehydratedriedmorels(seehere)amongstotherthingsTheonlywaytogetperfectpoachedeggsistouseeggsasnewlylaidas
possibleWithinoneortwodaysisbestsobefriendsomeonewiththeirownpeepofchickensorconsideraidingthecommendableworkofTheBritishHenWelfareTrustbyrehomingsomebatterychickensyourselfandhavingaccesstotrulyfresheggseveryday
SERVES44veryfreshorganiceggscidervinegar150grainbowchardcuthorizontallyinto25cmstrips1lovageleaffinelyslicedseasaltandblackpepper4wildvetchtipsorpeashootstogarnish
FORTHEHAMHOCKBROTH
1hamhock1bayleaf1clove1staranise2peppercorns
2peppercorns2corianderseeds4lovageseeds(orfennelseeds)2parsleystalks100gonionsdiced50gcarrotdiced50gceleriacdiced
FirstmakethebrothWashthehamhockwellundercoldrunningwaterandplaceitinalargepanCoverwithcoldwaterbringtotheboilthenimmediatelydiscardthewaterandrinsethehockoncemoreThiswillremoveimpuritiesthatmightcloudthestocklateronPutthehockbackinthepanfillwithplentyofwatercoveringthehockcompletelyandbringbacktoagoodrollingsimmerAddthebayleafandspicesandsimmerfor2frac12hoursregularlyskimmingoffanyimpuritiesthatrisetothesurfaceTopupwithmorewaterifnecessarytokeepthehockcoveredMakessurethestockissimmeringwellsothetemperatureishighenoughtoextractthegelatinefromthemeat
After2frac12hoursaddthevegetablesandcookforanother2hoursmaintainingahealthyrollingsimmerandtoppinguptheliquidlevelasnecessaryRewardyourpatiencewithalittlesnippetofthemeltinglysofthockonceitisremovedfromitscookingliquorWorththewaitSetthehockasidetocoolalittleandstrainthestockthroughafinesieveintoalargebakingtinndashthewidesurfaceareawillallowittocoolrapidlyWhenthehockiscoolenoughtohandleprisethemeatawayfromthebonesandbreakitintomanageablepiecesLaythesepiecesoutonasimilarshallowtraytocoolquicklythencoverandrefrigerate
Youshouldhaveabout2litresofstockFreezeitin4tubsthenadayortwobeforeyouplantomakethesoupturnout2ofthefrozenblocksandwrapthemin2layersofmuslinPlacetheminasievesetoverabowllargeenoughtoholdthethawedstockthenputtheminthefridgeThegelatineimpuritiesandfatwillstaysolidinthemuslinatfridgetemperaturewhilethestockwillrunclearbelowResisttheurgetosqueezethemuslinitwilldraindryeventuallyThistechniqueyieldsabouthalftheinitialfrozen
weightofstockinfinishedclarifiedstockInourexperiencethisisalittletooconcentratedandwilltakeaboutathirdextrawater
TheeggscanbepoachedinadvanceofservingBringapanofwatertoalightsimmerthenturnofftheheatandleavefor2ndash3minutesThewatercandropaslowas80degCandstillcooktheeggCrackaneggontoalargeslottedspoonandshakeitgentlysothewateryalbumendrainsoffandthetightlyboundalbumenremainsonthespoonGentlydroptheeggintoaramekinandrepeatwiththeremainingeggsputtingeachoneinaseparateramekinSubmergethebaseofeachramekininthehotwaterthenturntheramekinoverandtipouttheeggLettheeggssitundisturbedfor3frac12ndash5minutesdependingonsizeTheaimistocookthewhitewhilekeepingtheyolkrunnyRemovetheeggsusingaslottedspooninthesameordertheywentinandlowerthemintoabowloficedwaterThiswillstopthecookingTheeggscanbepoachedinadvanceandkeptinthefridgefor2days
CommendyourselfasthebuildingofthedishbeginsHeatthebroththroughdilutingittotastewithaboutathirdofitsvolumeinwaterifnecessaryandseasoningwithasplashofcidervinegarandsomesaltTokeepthebrothclearwerecommendreheatingthehockandcookingthechardseparatelyinsimmeringwaterAddthehamtoapanofsaltedwaterandcookatagentlesimmerforaboutaminutethendrainBlanchthechardinthewaterforabout30secondsthendrainwellIfyouhavepoachedtheeggsinadvancereheatthembybringingapanofwatertoasimmerremovingitfromtheheatthendroppingtheeggsinandleavingfor1minuteArrangethehamchardandeggsin4bowlsandgarnishwiththelovageleafandapinchofsaltoneacheggGentlypourthehockbrothoverthemcracksomeblackpepperoverthedishanddresswiththevetchtipsorpeashoots
CaerphillyandCiderWelshRabbit
ThisisastapleatTheEthicureanandthesmellinthemorningastherabbitismadeisintoxicatingServedalongsideapileofMarkrsquossaladleavestheflavoursareacidicsweetsaltyrichandforemostsavouryManyrecipescallfortheinclusionofstoutorporter-stylebeersOursisverymuchaWestCountryaffairandwechoosePerryrsquosMorganSweetcideronaccountofitssweetacidicfruitinessbutanygoodmedium-sweetciderwillsufficeCiderpairsverywellwithCaerphillyWhilebeerwoulddominatethischeesersquoscitrusyandmushroomyearthinessthecidersingsinchorusThesciencebehindusingCaerphillyoramatureCheddarisvery
straightforwardwedonrsquotwantastringyWelshrabbitCheesessuchasEmmentalcontaincaseinmoleculesthatarelinkedbycalciumforminglongfibresndashessentiallythestringinstringycheeseGorwyddrsquoscitrusflavourindicatesahighlevelofaciditywhichremovessomeofthecalciumItsunctuoustexturemeansahighermoisturecontentthatwillseparatecaseinmoleculesAllinallitrsquostheperfectcheeseforrarebitMatureCheddarisagoodalternativeTheripeningenzymesareratherpartialtocaseinandtheydevouritpreventinganylongstring-likefibresforming
SERVES6alargeunslicedwhitetinloaf100gverysoftsaltedbutter(or100gbeefdrippingmelted)150mlmedium-sweetcider100mlsinglecream2tbspvintagecidervinegarsuchasOstlerrsquos2tbspWorcestershiresauce2pinchesofsmokedpaprika250gGorwyddCaerphilly(ifyoucanrsquotgetGorwyddanagedCheddarmakesthebestsubstitute)coarselygrated
2eggyolks(omitifusingCheddar)
Heattheovento200degCGasMark6Cuttheendsoffthewhiteloafandthendividetheloafinto6slicesThethicknessoftheslicesisoneofthefactorsthatmakesthisrabbitsoperfectwithacrunchyexteriorthatgiveswaytoabrilliantlysoftwhiteinteriorUsingapastrybrushlightlybrush
waytoabrilliantlysoftwhiteinteriorUsingapastrybrushlightlybrushtheverysoftbutter(orthemelteddripping)onbothsidesofthebreadPuttheslicesonabakingsheetandbakefor8minutesturningthemoverhalfwaythroughBothsidesshouldbeverylightlygoldenLeaveonawireracktocool
PutthecidercreamvinegarWorcestershiresauceandpaprikainanon-sticksaucepanplaceoveramediumheatandcookstirringregularlyuntilthemixturehasreducedtotheconsistencyofdoublecreamItshouldbeadeepshadeofbrownLowertheheatandaddthecheeseandtheeggyolksifusingStiruntilthecheesehasmeltedthenwhiskthesauceuntilverysmoothandglossyLeavetocoolandthickentoapasteconsistency
SpreadthemixtureedgetoedgeonthetoastedbreadReturnthemtotheovenfor4minutesthenplaceunderahotgrilluntilevenlybrownedEnjoywithageneroushelpingofdressedsaladleavesAsthelocalBristolianswouldsaylsquoGertlushrsquo
daggerRestingbetweenLampeterandAberystwythontheCeredigioncoastlineisGorwyddfarmtheplacewhereone-timearchaeologistToddTrethowandevelopedhisrecipeHebeganhischeesecareerafterlearningfromthegreatWestCountrycheesemakerChrisDuckettFinallyhemovedhiscampervanhomeduringhislsquocheeseapprenticeshiprsquoandreturnedtothefamilyfarmtomakeGorwyddCaerphillyTherearetwodistincttypesofCaerphillythefirstandoldestwasthecheesemadebyhandusingexcessmilkthatwouldhaveotherwiseturnedbadItwasafarmhousecheesetobeeatenafteradayinthefieldsThesecondbringsusbacktoSomersetandtotheCheddarmakerswhodesiredaquick-maturingcheesethatwouldenablehealthycash-flowduringthelongmaturationperiodsoftheirCheddar
SMOKING
HumanshavealwaysbeendrawntothehypnoticandtranquilqualitiesoffireTherearefewthingsthatwelovemorethansittingaroundafirewiththeclosestoffriendsandfamilyputtingtheworldtorightsoverabottleofwineFiresmeansmokeandsmokedfoodwasperhapsaby-product
ofdrying(seealsocuringhere)whenfoodwashungoverfiresandallowedslowlytodrythuspreservingthemeatfromrottingNowadaysfoodsthataretobesmokedundergoapreliminarystepofcuringbeforebeingsmokedSmokingisusedasanadditionalformofpreservationbutnotanessentialoneThesedayssmokingisusedforitsapplicationofflavourTherearetwomethodshotsmokingandcoldsmokingWith
theformerhotsmokefromafireiseitherdirectedintoasealedchamberthathousesfoodorachambercanbedirectlyplacedoversmokinglogsThemaingoalofhotsmokingistocookandpasteurisethemeatTemperaturesinsidethechambersusedtohousethefoodcommonlyreach80ndash110degCColdsmokingasthenamesuggestsusescoldsmoketo
flavourthefoodTraditionalmethodsuseasealedcontainerwithhooksfromwhichtohangfoodhowevertheheatsourceisseparateUsuallythefireishousedinaseparatechamberjoinedtothefoodchamberviasomepipingSmokeescapesfromthefireboxintothepipeandtravelsintothefoodchamberThefurtherthesmoketravelsthemoreitcoolsonitsjourneyThegoalofcoldsmokingwasoriginallytodryfoodGiving
microbeslesswaterinhibitstheirgrowthFoodsusedtobecoldsmokedforlongperiodsoftimeattemperaturessomewherearound20ndash30degChoweverthisposedalargeriskforthesafetyoffoodastheseareperfectconditionsformicrobialactivityCuringsaltswereoftenusedtopreventthisfromhappeningThankstotheinventionofthetrustyfridgetheprimaryreasonforcoldsmoking(preservation)islessimportantandwecannowutiliseitpurelyfortheflavouritadds
utiliseitpurelyfortheflavouritaddsThepointjustbeforewoodignitesistheperfectpointfor
smokingfoodasthisiswhenthetemperatureishighenoughtoremovethemoreunpleasantelementsthatcanbeinthesmokeWoodsmokingatcoolertemperaturescanoftentarnishfoodswithanacridlessfavourableflavourAnyhigherthanthisandthewoodwilligniteSmokingisadelicatebalancingactandtakesskilland
experienceIfyouhaveneverexperimentedwithsmokingbeforethenwerecommendtryingafewofthetechniqueslistedhereBewarnedthatitisanincrediblyaddictivehobbyandonceyoubegintorealisethevariablesanddifferentmethodsitcanbecomeanall-consumingobsessionndashsomethingthatMatthewandIainknowonlytoowellSincetheystartedsmokingwhatevertheycouldlaytheirhandsonthereisoftensomethingsmoulderingawayinthekitchenunderclosescrutinyIaincanoftenbeseenwieldingalargeblowtorchwithaslightlyexhaustedmaniclookinhiseyewhileMatthewtakesafewstepsbackcoveringuphischesthairfromthenakedflameWewillintroduceyoutoafewbasicsmokingmethodsthat
aregreatforthehomesmokerandwewillhighlighttheprosandconsforeachThereareentirebooksdevotedtothisvastandfascinatingsubjectandifthesemethodspiqueyourinterestwecanstronglyrecommendpurchasingone
TincanandsolderingironapproachJackhasexperimentedalotwiththismethodItisoneoftheeasiestandmostaccessibletothehomeuserhoweveritdoeshaveitsdrawbacksFirstthishastobedoneoutsideYouneedatincanthatisnotlacqueredontheinsideoldcondensedmilktinsareperfectPackdrywoodchipsintothecanandatthebaseofthecanonthesidemakeasmallincisionwithascrewdriverndashitshouldbelargeenoughforthetipofasolderingironPlacethetipofthesolderingironintheholeandturnonThenputboththecanandtheironinthebaseofasmallWeber-stylebarbecuewiththebarbecueshelfplacedoverthecanPointthecansothattheopeningisclosetothewallofthebarbecueandawayfromthemeatPlacethefoodyouwanttosmokeonthewireshelfon
themeatPlacethefoodyouwanttosmokeonthewireshelfontheoppositesidetothecanandpoponthelidClosealloftheventsonthebarbecueIfyouaresmokingmeatorfishwerecommenddoingitinhalf-hourincrementsYoucancheckontheinternaltemperatureofthebarbecuewithathermometerTakethemeatouttryalittleandseewhatyouthinkIfyouwantmoresmokethenplacebackinforanother30minutesFoodsthatneedtobecookedbeforetheycanbeeaten(raw
meatfishetc)shouldneverbesmokedformorethanfourhoursbutthenitisveryunlikelythatsmallcutsofmeatorfishwillrequirethislengthofsmokinginanycaseIfsmokingthesetypesoffoodsplacealargebowloficeunderthewirerackontheoppositesidetothecandirectlyunderthefoodstuffThiswillcoolthesmokedownsomemoreIfsmokingforlongperiodsoftimethechipsinthetincanwillneedreplacingevery6ndash8hourstoensureyougetthebestfromthistechniqueSomepeopleadvocatetheuseofacombinationofdampand
drywoodchipsbutwewouldstronglyrecommendifusingthismethodthatyouuseonlydrychipsEventhismethoddoesnotachievehighenoughtemperaturestoburnthemaincarcinogeniccomponentsofsmokeandcombiningdampwoodlowersthepyrolysistemperature(thetemperatureatwhichmoleculesinthewoodarebrokendown)andresultsinevenmoreacridandacidiccomponentsflavouringthefoodIfyouareattemptingthismethodsetupthebarbecuecloseto
adoorwayoronapatioTheoptimumtimeforsmokinglikethisisduringwinterasthecoolertemperaturesmeansaferconditionsIfsmokingonasunnydaythenkeepwellshadedThisisafairlyexperimentalapproachandonethatnottoomanypeopleknowaboutConsideringhoweasyitiswersquodliketogetpeoplehookedonsmokingthroughthesebasictechniquesbeforeencouragingfurtherexperimentationwithsomeofthetechniquesoverleaf
BlowtorchandicemethodAgainthisispracticalforthehomesmokerandallowsplentyofscopeforexperimentationInasmall-to-medium-sizedliddedroastingtrayplacewoodchipsorsawdustononesideofthebaseOntheoppositesideofthetrayplaceabowloficeIgnitethechipsordustthoroughlyusingablowtorchCulinaryblowtorcheswillnotcutthemustardonthisoneastheydonotgiveoffenoughheatyouwillneedaplumberrsquosone(askforacopperbrazingtorchatyourlocalplumbingsupplier)BesurenottobuyatorchthatrunsoffMAPPGasthesecontainadangeroustypeoffuelthatisnotsuitedforculinaryuseStartthewoodsmoulderingbeforeplacingawirerackontop
withthefoodonthencoveringwiththelidWeighdownthelidifitdoesnotformatightsealandleavefor30minutesRemovefromthesmokerandtestthefoodtoseeifitissmokyenoughforyourtasteYoucanalsousedifferenttypesofwoodforthismethodThe
boysinthekitchenhaveexperimentedwithsmokingbutterwithfreshbayleavesNotallofourexperimentshavebeensuccessfulndashinfactsomehavebeenappallingbutyouneverknowuntilyoutryWhilethismethoddoesachieveahottertemperaturethanthetincanitisstillnotaseffectiveatburningcarcinogensandacridcomponentsofsmokeassomeotherslightlymorecomplextechniques
HotpanmethodAlthoughthisessentiallyhotsmokesyourfoodyoucouldtrycombiningitwiththeprevioustechniquendashitsavesbuyinga
combiningitwiththeprevioustechniquendashitsavesbuyingablowtorchHeatupalargepanuntilsmokinghotAddathinlayerofwoodchipsandgetthemsmokingtooDecantthechipsintooneendofaliddedroastingtraywithabowloficeattheotherendFollowingtheremainingstepsforthepreviousmethod
SmokegunmethodAsmokegunisahand-helddevicethathousesasmallchambersimilartothatofasmokingpipeandcontainsafanYouloadthechamberwithsawdustorwoodchipslightthemandthenturnthefanonThefanpullsairthroughthechamberandfeedsoxygentothefireComingoutofthesmokegunisarubbertubethatallowsyoutodirectwhereyouwantthesmoketogoThismethodforthehomeuserisincrediblyeffectivePackthebaseofthechamberwithsawdustandlightuntilsmoulderingWhensmoulderingtopwithwoodchipsofyourchoiceandlightthewoodchipsWhileyoudothisturnthefanonThesmokefromthewoodpassesthroughahotbaselayerofsawdustthatburnsanyacridcomponentsofthesmokeWhatyouareleftwithisessentiallylsquogoodsmokersquothatwillflavouryourfoodinapositivewayTheonlycompanyweknowofthatmanufacturesasmokegunisPolyScienceSmokegunsretailaroundthepound50markandareavailableonlineUltimatelyexperimentingwithfoodandtechniquesshouldbe
funThecarcinogenicnatureofsmokehoweveritcomesisnothealthytohumanbeingssoweadvisetakingcareandlimitingtheamountsofsmokedfoodsyoueatThatsaidsometrulyspectacularflavourscanbeachievedandasalwaysweurgeyoutogetcreativelearnthebasicsandthenplayYoumayjuststumbleacrossacombinationortechniquethatshapesthefutureofcooking
SmokedChipotleChillies
ThechipotlechilliisajalapentildeothathasbeenlefttoripenontheplantitisthensmokedanddriedWealldevelopedaloveforthischillithroughPaucirclawhoregularlyreceivesdriedpackagesofthemfromMexicoHergrandmotherrsquoschipotlepickleisabsolutelyincredibleWesmokethewholechillieswiththeseedsinbutyoucantakethemoutifyoupreferamildersauce
20jalapentildeochillies(oranytypeofripechilli)
Werecommendusingabout15kgoffinewoodchipsndashoakorapplearegoodbutavoidresinouswoodsastheywilltainttheflavour
WhenyouarereadytosmokebeginbywashingthejalapentildeosFollowtheinstructionsforthetincanandsolderingironsmokingmethodonhereArrangethejalapentildeosontheoppositesidetothesmokingcanandthenclosethebarbecuelidIdeallyyouwanttosmokethejalapentildeosfor16hoursuntildarkandcrispEveryfewhourscheckthelevelofwoodinthecanandtopupasappropriateYoucanalsofinishdryingthechilliesinafanovenonabout50degCwiththedoorslightlyajarfan-assistedovensareperfectforthistask(Pleaseconsultoperatinginstructionsndashdisclaimer)StorethecooledsmokedchilliesinanairtightcontainerinacooldryplaceThechilliescanberehydratedinhotwatertheflavourisverystrongsolittleisneeded
SmokedRoeDeerLoinwithWildRocketClampedCarrotsHoneyedWalnutsandWoodSorrel
CuringtheloinmakesthemostofthispreciouscutWealsocoldsmokeitaddingextracomplexitytotheendresultThisstagecanbeleftoutifyoupreferEitherwayyouneedtopreparetheloinwellinadvanceasithastositinthecureforfivedaysTheoakchipsimpartaflavourthatcomplementstheblackcardamoma
spicethattastessmokedbecausethepodsaredriedoveropenflamesThesweetwalnutsbalancethesavourymeatWoodsorrelgrowsincarpetsonthewoodlandfloorandhasacitrustangthataddsacidityItalsogrowsinthedeerrsquoshabitatmakingitaveryfittingadditionindeed
SERVES4WITHPLENTYOFSPARELOINFORTHELARDER
1roedeerloinweighing1kgsilvermembraneremoved(askyourbutchertodothisforyou)
2handfulsofoakchipsforsmoking(orusethesmokegunmethodonhere)200gwildrocketalittlecidervinegar50gHoneyedWalnuts(seehere)2tablespoonswoodsorrel(orcultivatedsorrel)frac12tspfinelychoppedcrushedjuniperberries
FORTHECURE
6staranise6blackcardamompods2tbspjuniperberries1tbspblackpeppercorns35gfineseasalt15gdarkmuscovadosugar
FORTHECARROTANDBLACKCARDAMOMPUREacuteE
4blackcardamompods(seektheseoutinAsiansupermarketsasthesmokinessisveryvaluabletothechef)
200gcarrots(forclampedcarrotsseeopposite)sliced1ndash2tbsphoneyseasalt
Blitzalltheingredientsforthecuretogetherinafoodprocessororspice
BlitzalltheingredientsforthecuretogetherinafoodprocessororspicegrinderLaytheroeloinonalargepieceofclingfilmcoverwiththecuremixtureandrubitinthoroughlyleavingitinanevencoatingTightlywraptheloinintheclingfilmandplaceinthefridgefor5daysturningiteverydayorso
RemovetheloinfromthecuremixandrinseunderacoldtapmakingsureyouwashoffallthespicesHangthemeatinawarmwell-ventilatedarea(awarmpartofthekitchenorintheairingcupboardwilldo)for12hoursoruntilitiscompletelydrytothetouchndashatemperatureof25degCisidealsoadjustthetimeyouhangthemeataccordingly
InthemeantimeprepareyoursmokingboxfollowingtheBlowtorchandIcemethodonhere
PlacetheoakchipstoonesideofthebakingtrayOntheoppositesideplaceabowloficewithawirerackstooddirectlyaboveitPlacetheloinontherackUsingablowtorchheatthechipsstirringwithametalspoontoheatthemevenlyWhenthechipsareproperlyonfirecoverwiththefoilandweightdowntopreventsmokeescapingLeavefor30minutesThetimethattheloinsitsinsmokeisavariablethatcanbeplayedwithIfyoupreferasmokierflavourthenrepeattheprocesswithfreshwoodchipsOnceyouhavesmokedthemeattoyoursatisfactionremovefromthesmokerandchilluntilneeded
ForthecarrotandblackcardamompureacuteehalffillapanwithwateraddthecardamompodsandbringtoasimmerPutthecarrotsinasteamerbasketplaceontopofthepanthencoverandsteamfor35minutesuntilthecarrotsareverytenderindeedPureacuteeinablenderorfoodprocessorMixinthehoneyandsalttotasterememberingthatthisisthesweetcomponentofthisdishThinthepureacuteewithalittleofthesteamingliquorandblendagaintogiveavelvetytextureLeavetocoolthenchilluntilrequired
SlicetheroeloinfinelyatanangletomaximisethelengthofsliceDresstherocketincidervinegaralonethecarrotpureacuteewillprovideamplemoistureandsweetnesssonooilisrequiredPlacetherocketon4servingplatesandarrangetheroeloinwalnutsandsorrelontopthendotteaspoonsofthesmokedandhoneyedcarrotpureacuteethroughoutSprinklethejuniperberriesontoptofinishthissaporificdish
ontoptofinishthissaporificdish
WOODSORREL
OxalisAcetosellaOldEnglishAlleluiaThisdelicate-lookingplanthasaheart-shapedleafwithafolddownthecentrethesecordateleavesoccuringroupsofthreeFlowersappeararoundApriltoMaytheyarelilaccolouredwithdarkerveinsofthesamecolourAsthesundisappearswoodsorrelrsquosamorousleavesfoldtogethertomakeasmalltentshapeAtfirstlighttheyopenonceagainWeareluckytohaveseveralgoodspotsintheWestCountrywherewoodsorrelcanbefoundmoistandshadyplacesintypicallydeciduouswoodsWoodsorrellikestoshelterundermossandbrackenortheoddfallenlogItisalmostlemoninflavourandtheoxalicaciditcontainshastheeffectofstimulatingthesalivatoryglandsDonotpicktherootbutmakesureyoueatthewholestalkaswebelieveittobebettertastingthantheleafitself
CLAMPEDVEGETABLES
Clampingisanage-oldmethodofpreservationItsavestheautumncropofrootvegetablesandhasthebenefitofincreasingflavourandnutrientcontentAsanexamplecarrotswillincreasetheirvitaminAduringsixmonthsofstoringawayfromheatand
lightChefsareeversofondoftheseclampedrootsfortworeasonsTheincreaseinflavourandsweetnessisobviousbutmostimportantlytheyhavevegetablestomakevaluablestocks
throughthemonthsofFebruarytoMay
ToclampcarrotsbeetrootsparsnipsturnipsswedeceleriackohlrabiorpotatoesafewimportantstepsneedbefollowedYou
willneedafrost-freeshedorconcreteflooredgaragesomewoodentraysandagoodquantityofdampsandHarvestby
carefullyforkinguptherootsonadrydayinOctoberPickoutthelargerthick-coredandunblemishedrootsandtrimbackonlytheleavesInthecaseofbeetroottwisttheleavesratherthancuttopreventlsquobleedingrsquoanddonrsquotcutbackanygreencarrottopsastheyneedtoremainwholeRemoveanysoil(rubbingwithsandiseffective)andsendanydamagedorbrokenspecimenstothekitchenpost-hasteLaysandintothewoodentrayandplacetherootsinlayerstessellatingbutnottouchingCoverwithsandandrepeatuntilallarestoredUncovertherootsasneeded
takingcaretocoveranyremainingonesagainAcertainamountofcarrotscanbeleftinthegrounduntilspringpromptstheirgrowthagainbutthereisoftentherisktheymayturnwoodyandcrackIfyourcropwarrantsleavinginthegroundthen
coverwellwithstrawtoeasetheirliftingduringfrostsGiventhebenefitsforflavourandmineralcontentclampingisthebetter
option
HUNTINGDEERWITHALAN
WeregularlystalkwithourfriendAlanHeisahorticulturistacountrymanhereadsthelandscapeandwhispersthenamesofthethingsthatgrowcrawlrunandsingHehasawonderfullyclippedaccentlsquoJackrsquohewillsaylsquoLetrsquosconcentrateonthefirstcourseshallwersquoasthesightofStGeorgersquosmushroomsoftencausesdistractionsonaspringstalkDeeraremostactiveduringdawnandduskmeaningearly
startsandlatefinishesforthestalkerMorningsprovideacrystallinebeautyaswewalkthroughthelastfewfrostsoftheyearEveningsgiveusetherealsunsetsandthechancetowatchthelandsettledownforthenightAllthedeerinourareaareroeTheyareanativeBritishspecies(OldEnglishRaha)andare
spreadwidelyacrossBritainParticularlyinthesouthofEnglandthesedeerwerethoughttohavebeenallbutwipedoutduringtheMiddleAgesTheyarefoundpredominantlyinsmallgroupsoralonealthoughlargergroupswillfeedtogetherduringthewintermonthsRoewillfeedonberriesleavesgrassandyoungshootsTheyparticularlylikeyoungbrambleshootsandnewlycoppicedwoodlandEveninthefailinglightAlanrsquosgrinisperceptibleHenodsto
thesilhouetteofaroebuckasittracestheskylinewithitspin-likelegsitsearsflickingindependentlyWemustwaitforittodisappearoverthebrowofthehillhopingthatitwillprovideaclearshotwithasafebackstopontheothersideAtthistimeroedeerlookprettyscruffytheirwinterpelageisgivingwaytotheirsummercoatofchestnutredMerlinthelabradorisunconcernedbyourpotentialquarrypreferringtopushherlargeheadintothenearestpalmforascratchTheroebuckhassteppeddownfromtheskylineandhas
presenteditselfbroadsidewithasafebackstopforashotFromourpositionbodiespressedagainstthegroundwecanseethebuckleanforwardandtastetheairitslipsseekingawarningscentAlanstopsforaninstanttakesaimandslipsthesafetycatchbackBeforethebuckhasachancetoturnthereisabanganditfallstotheground
CurdCheeseCucumberFlatBeanAniseedandSesame
AccordingtotheBritishCucumberGrowersAssociationifallthecucumbersgrownintheBritishseasonwerelaidendtoendtheywouldgoalmostrightroundtheworldYetdespitethegreatnumberavailabletousaswithalotoffruitandvegetablesmostcucumbersareflowninfromEuropeorbeyondItseemsashamewhentherealityisthattheyarerelativelyeasytogrowintheUKHavingsaidthatgrowingcucumberscommerciallytakesalotofskillThecropsaresusceptibletodamagefrompestsmakingthemdifficulttogroworganicallyTheorganiccucumberswegetcomefromTheCommunityFarmwheretheteamensuresthatwearerarelyshortofseasonalproduceTheirlocationinChewMagnajust7milesawayisverygoodnewsforusOtherthanaquickcucumberpickleandadressingthissaladismadeto
orderhighlightingthewayfreshproduceatitsbestmarksthestartofaproductivesummerHerewemakeuseofcucumberandflatbeansbothofwhichgrowsplendidlyearlyinourglasshousesThesewillbeavailableforthosegrowingoutdoorsinlatespringtoearlysummerTheaniseeddressingworksharmoniouslywiththejuicycucumberanddelightfullysweetflatbeans
SERVES4100gflatbeanschopped1tspsesameseeds3youngcucumbers1tspaniseed(orfennelseeds)100mlcidervinegar100gcastersugar8tbspewersquoscurd(orgoatrsquoscurdorafreshyoungcheese)50gcheeserindtheolderanddrierthebetterfinelygrated(therindofunwaxedewersquosmilkcheeseisideal)
fineseasalt12borageflowersandafewwatercressleavestogarnish
FORTHEWATERCRESSDRESSING
70mlbuttermilk(ifunavailablestir1tspvinegarinto65mlmilkandleavefor5minutes)
35gmayonnaise(seePaprikaMayonnaiseonhereifyouwouldliketomakeitfromscratchomittingthepaprika)abunchofwatercressstalks
mustardpowderseasalt
Blanchtheflatbeansinfast-boilingsaltedwaterfor2minutesuntiljusttenderthendrainandleaveinicedwaterToastthesesameseedsinadryfryingpantilltheyturngoldenthentipthemoutofthepanontoaplatetopreventburningCutonecucumberinto5mmdiceandsprinkleliberallywithsaltLeavetodraininasievefor20ndash30minutestogivethefinishedpickleacrunchHeattheaniseedinadrypantillitspitsandcracklesTakethepanofftheheatcarefullyaddthevinegarandthenstirinthesugaruntildissolvedAllowthistocoolsomewhatwhileyourinsethesaltfromthecubedcucumberPutthecubesinabowlandcoverwiththewarmvinegarmixtureLeavetocoolThiswillkeepinthefridgefor5daysshouldyouchoosetomakeitinadvance
TomakethedressingputalltheingredientsinablenderkeepingbackafewofthewatercressstalksandpulseuntilthestalksareveryfinelychoppedThemixtureshouldbenothickerthansinglecreamandabeautifulpalegreencolourTasteandaddmoreofthestalksshouldyouwanttoincreasethatfreshgreenpeppertastefromthemustardoilwithinSeasonwithsaltandsetaside
Trimtheendsand2longsidesfromtheother2cucumbersandpeelintostripswithaY-shapedvegetablepeelerndashoronamandolineshouldyouwantsuper-tidyslicesLaytheseoneachservingplatecurlingthestripsoveranddresswithalittlefineseasaltSpoonscoopsofewersquoscurdandrolltheminthegratedcheeserindPlacetheseamongstthestripsofcucumberAddafewcubesofpickledcucumberandateaspoonoftheaniseedmarinadetoeachplateScattertheflatbeansovertheplatesandthenspoonoverthewatercressdressingFinishwiththedelicateblueborageflowersafewsmallwatercressleavesandthetoastedsesameseedsMarvellouscoloursandtidyonthetastebuds
CrabSaladwithNewPotatoesPickledCarrotand
SmokedPaprikaMayonnaise
WehaveoftenwonderedwhycrabmeatisnotmorepopularinBritainnowadaysMostcrabcaughtinBritishwatersissentstraighttoEuropewhereitisinhighdemandPerhapswesimplydonrsquotknowhowtocookthemlessstillhowtoeatthemAdmittedlypreparingawholecrabtakespracticeandcanbeamessyandtime-consumingaffairHoweverifyousurroundyourselfwithagroupoffriendsfurnishyourselveswithagoodloafofbreadandacoupleofbeveragespreferablyofthealcoholicvarietyyouwillseehowmuchfunitistopractiseThenativebrowncrabisdeliciousandthespidercrabrankshigherthanlobsterintasteformanyusincludedItistrulyadoredinSpaincommandingthehighestshellfishpricesIfyouneedmoregoodreasonstoeatBritishcrabmeatrememberthatitisrelativelyinexpensiveandhasbettersustainabilitycredentialsthanmostfishyoufindinthesupermarketThequantitiesgivenforthesmokedpaprikamayonnaisemakemorethan
youneedforthisrecipebutitisveryversatileServeitwithothersaladssmokedfishandasageneralsubstituteforboughtmayonnaiseWeguaranteethatittopsanythingyoucanbuyinashop
SERVES4200gnewpotatoesscrubbedcleanandcutinto5cmchunks1livebrowncrabor2livespidercrabs200gspringsaladleaves80mlTheEthicureanSaladDressing(seehere)afewpinchesofgroundmacebronzedillorfennelfronds100gPickledCarrots(seehere)afewedibleflowers(optional)
FORTHESMOKEDPAPRIKAMAYONNAISE
1largefree-rangeeggyolkfrac12tbsphoneyfrac12tbspDijonmustardfrac12tbspsmokedpaprika
1tspfineseasaltabout450mlrapeseedoil1tbspcidervinegar
FirstmakethemayonnaiseUsingastickblenderelectricwhiskorfreestandingelectricmixercombinetheeggyolkhoneymustardpaprikaandsaltWhiskonfullspeedfor30secondsoruntilsmoothWiththewhiskorblenderrunningonfullspeedveryslowlystartaddingtheoilAfterathirdoftheoilhasbeenmixedinaddthevinegarthencontinueinthesamefashionwiththerestoftheoilBesuretopourinaveryfinesteadystreamtobeginwithifyouaddtoomuchoilearlyonthemayonnaisewillsplitAstheoilisbeingincorporatedthemayonnaiseshouldstarttothickentoathickorangey-redemulsion(youmaynotneedalltheoil)Checkthetasteandseasonwithmoresaltandvinegarifnecessary
Cookthepotatoesinboilingsaltedwateruntiltenderthendrainandleavetocool
CookandpreparethecrabsasdescribedoverleafPlacesomeofthesaladleaveson4servingplateswiththepotatoesAddmoreleavesintertwiningthemwiththecrabmeatDresseachlayerasyougowithsaladdressingwhiletryingtomaintainheightinthedishtokeepitlookingattractiveTheclawsofthecrablookgreatwhenextractedwholesocombinethesewiththeflakedwhitecrabmeatforextravisualappealSpoononasmuchofthesmokedpaprikamayonnaiseasyouwishthenfinishwithafewpinchesofmacethebronzedillorfennelfrondspickledcarrotsandanyedibleflowersyoumayhaveServeimmediately
PREPARINGCRAB
HowtocookacrabThefirststepincookingacrabisknowinghowtokillit
humanelyOurheadchefMatthewwhoworkedformanyyearsasafishmongerisconvincedthattheonlywaytodothisistoputthecrabinthefreezerfor2hoursorsofirstTheeffectistonumbthecrabandensurethatthepainisminimisedwhenitiskilledWhenyoutakethecraboutofthefreezerturnitonitsbackliftthetailawayandlocatethedimplerightinitscentreTakeasharpskewerorothersharpthinimplementandpushitthroughthedimplethenasitmeetsthetopshellmoveitfromsidetosideDothesamebetweenthecrabrsquoseyespushingthe
skewerthroughandeasingitfromsidetoside
ThecrabshouldbecookedimmediatelyafterkillingItwillneed15minutesperkilograminalargepanofwell-saltedboiling
waterndashweallowatablespoonofsaltperlitreIfyouarecookingtwocrabscalculatethetimebasedontheirindividualratherthan
combinedweight
Howtoprepareacookedcrab1Turnthecrabonitsbackandtwistoffitslegsandclaws
2SeparatethetopshellfromthebottomshellbyplacingyourfingerunderthetopofitstailPullbothshellsapartusinga
heavyspoontocrackalongthelinethatisthereifitdoesnrsquotcomeawayeasily
awayeasily
3NowdonrsquotbeputoffbywhatyouseewhentheshellisfullyopenYouwillneedtodoabitoftidyingupbeforeyouareabletoappreciatethefullpotentialofthiscrustaceanStartbygettingridofthepointygreypiecesofmeatintheshell(calleddead
manrsquosfingers)andthebonybitsTheseareallinedibleYouwillneedtoremovethestomachsacjustbehindtheeyesandmouthtooThecreamybrownmeattoeithersideoftheheadisfor
somethetastiestandmostsupremelyediblesodonrsquotdiscardit
4UsingaskewerorsometweezersyounowneedtoremovethewhitemeatfromthemiddlepartofthebodyThisiswherethefirstglassofyourbeverageofchoicewillcomeinhandyastheprocessdoestakesometimeSopouryourselfadrinkandstartbycuttingthebodyintwosoitiseasiertoaccessthemeatinsideCarefullyremoveallthewhitemeatfromtheshellWhatmakesthistaskquitelaboriousisthatsomeofthedesirablewhite
meatisattachedtohardbonysectionsanditisdifficulttodifferentiatebetweenthetwoBepatient
5FinallycracktheclawsopenDIYtoolswillprobablybemoreeffectivethankitchenutensilsherendashasmallhammerworkswelloryoucouldtrythebackofaheavyknifeExtractasmuchwhitemeataspossiblewithyourtweezersorskeweranddonrsquotforgettoopenthewholeoftheclawThereismuchpreciousmeatinthelowerpartsoftheclawwhichisoftenforgottenaboutDothesamewiththelegsWithpracticethewholeprocesswilltake
youlessandlesstimeandweguaranteeitwillneverceasetobeenjoyable
SpringRadisheswithAnchovyCregravemeFraicircche
ThissimpleanchovydippairsbeautifullywithfreshradishesWeliketositaroundeatingthisinthegardenonasunnyspringeveningwhiledrinkingaglassofLimney(afantasticorganicwineproducedinSussex)andenjoyingthefirstrealwarmthoftheyearWhatrsquosgreataboutradishesisthatastheweatherbeginstowarmsodoestheirinherentfiery-pepperiness
SERVES4ndash62bunchesofradishes
FORTHEANCHOVYCREgraveMEFRAIcircCHE
alittlerapeseedorgroundnutoil1springonionfinelysliced
1springonionfinelysliced1headofwetgarlicfinelysliced(or2clovesofdriedgarlic)35gmarinatedwhiteanchovyfilletsfinelychopped75mlcregravemefraicirccheseasaltandblackpepper
HeatasplashofoilinasmallfryingpanaddthespringonionandgarlicandfryoveramediumheatuntilsoftAddtheanchoviesandcookforacouplemoreminutesTransferthemixturetoasmallbowlandleavetocoolStirinthecregravemefraicirccheandseasontotaste
ThoroughlycleantheradishesandtheirleaveskeepingtheleavesattachedHoldingtheleavesallowsyoutodiptheradishesintotheanchovysaucebeforebitingthemcleanofftheirgreeneryTherearefewsimplerormoredeliciouswaystoenjoythesepepperydelights
TroutwithKelpandShiitakeMushroomStockRiceFlatBeansandSeaKale
FindingthebestlocalingredientsisoneofthemostrewardingtasksforusatTheEthicureanSoweweredelightedwhenTessaTrickspartoftheEthicureanfamilydescribedhowcommittedherfatherwastofishinginthelocalareaHerfamilyrsquosfreezerwewereinformedwasalwaysuptomaximumcapacitywithrainboworbrowntroutcaughtinthenearbyChewValleyorBlagdonLakesItwasnosurprisetohearthattheyreferredtotroutaslsquotheTrickrsquosfamilycurrencyrsquoCharlieTricksstartedfishingattheageof10intheRiverYeoHenowpreferstofishatthebanksofthelakeashecanmovearoundandchoosehisspotBankfishingismoreofachallengebutthisaddstotheexcitementwhenyoudoeventuallysucceedincatchingsomethingworthcookingTheTrickseattroutatleastonceaweekandhavedevelopedan
impressivecatalogueofrecipesovertheyearsItwasourtasktoofferthemsomethingnewthatwouldfitwithourmenuThisreciperequirestwoJapanese-stylestockswhichneedpreparingadayinadvanceUnlikeEuropeanstockswhichoftenrequirelongcookingJapanesestocksarequicklukewarm-waterpreparationsthatuseumami-richingredientssuchasmushroomsdriedfishandseaweeds(seehereformoreaboutlsquoumamirsquo)ThesimplicityfreshnessandseasonalityofJapanesefoodarequalitiesthatweoftentrytoreplicateKelpisfrequentlyusedinJapanesestocksandinthisinstanceweusednativekelpdriedinaverylowovenYoushouldbeabletofindkelplabelledaskombuinorientalmarketsandhealthfoodstoresWhenCharlieandhisfamilytriedthisdishweworriedthatthedelicate
ingredientsaccompanyingthefishwouldnotstanduptoitbutthetablewasalivewithtalkofribonucleotidesinmushroomsguanylatecompoundsinumamiandseaweedstocksBytheendoftheirdinnertheTrickswerecommittedtoattemptingbriningathome
SERVES4300gbasmatirice40gseasalt1rainbowtroutweighing800gndash1kgfilletedwithpinbonesremoved6tbspmirin(ricewine)
6tbspmirin(ricewine)100gonionsfinelydiced50gceleriacfinelydiced50gwhitemushroomsfinelydiced2staranise1tspfennelseeds200gflatbeanstrimmedandcutinto2cmslices500gseakale(orkale)stalksremovedcutinto3cmstrips
FORTHEMUSHROOMSTOCK
50gdriedwholeshiitakemushrooms(theready-sliceddriedonesaremuchstrongersoreduceto10gifthatiswhatyouhave)FORTHEKELPSTOCK
20gdriedkelp(kombu)
Firstpreparethestocks(seeingredientsoverleaf)Forthemushroomstockwashthedriedshiitakethensoakin600mlcoldwaterovernightinaglassormetalbowlDonrsquotworryifyourkitchensmellsasifthereisagasleakthepungentshiitakewillbethecauseThefollowingdaystrainthestockthroughapieceofmuslinandchill
RinsethedriedkelpofanysandorresidueinabowlofcoldwaterBebriefsoasnottoloseitsconcentratedflavourPut12litreswaterinasaucepansetitoveralowheatandlookoutfortinybubblesappearingonthebaseofthepanTurnofftheheataddthekelpthencoverthepanandleaveforanhourswitchingtheheatonagainfor3minuteshalfwaythroughtomaintainthetemperatureIfyouhaveathermometerthetemperatureshouldholdcloseto60degCAnythinghigherwillreleasesulphurcompoundsiodineandaldehydesfromthekelpwhichwilltaintthesweetanddelicatestockStrainthestockthroughmuslinleavetocoolthenchill
Combinethe2stocksthenmeasureout750mlSetbothportionsofstockaside
WashthericeinasieveunderplentyofcoldrunningwaterTheaimistoremoveallthestarchsokeepgoinguntilthewaterrunscompletelyclearThismaytake10minutesormorebutgivesperfectriceeverytimeifthisstepisfollowedStirthericerubbingitgentlywithyourfingertipstoloosen
stepisfollowedStirthericerubbingitgentlywithyourfingertipstoloosenanyremainingstarchthenleavetodrainBasmatiwillabsorboneandaquartertimesitsweightinwaterduringcookingEvenifyoudonrsquotpossessaricesteamerbeautifulfluffyricecanbeachievedwithasaucepanandwell-fittinglidPutthedrainedriceintoafairlywidepanadd375mlwaterthencoverandsetaside
Tomakeabrineaddthe40gseasalttothe750mlmixedstockandstiruntilithasdissolvedCutthetroutfilletsinto4evenportionspersideAddthesetothebrineandrefrigerateforprecisely20minutesthendrainInthemeantimeheattheremainingstocktoasimmerandthentasteitItwillbeeversosubtleanddelicatebutyourtonguewillregistersomethingspecificsomethingcomplexyethardtopindownTheelusiveumamitastetheessenceofJapanesecookingispresentyetverydelicateAddthemirinandthenaddsaltapinchatatimeTasteagainandnoticehowthesweetnessandsalthaveaddeddepthSeasongraduallyuntilyouarepleasedwiththebalance
PutthepanofriceoverahighheatandwatchforittocometotheboilThemomentitdoesaddateaspoonofsaltandstirCoverthepantightlyandreducetheheattolowCookfor10minutesresistingthetemptationtopeerintothepanTheideaistotrytomimicaricesteamersothesteamneedstobetrappedbythelidAfter10minutesturntheheatoffbutleavethelidonforafurther10minutesContinuetoresistthetemptationtopeerin
Heattheovento120degCGasMarkfrac12BoilakettleandpourthewaterintoadeepbakingtraytoadepththatwillcoverthefishfilletscomfortablyAddtheonionsceleriacmushroomsstaranisefennelseedsandthedrainedfishfilletsPlaceintheovenandleavefor10minutes
Blanchtheflatbeansinapanofboilingsaltedwaterfor2minutesandtheseakaleinaseparatepanfor1minutethendrainRunaforkoverthericetoloosentheperfectlycookedfluffygrainsthendivideitbetween4servingbowlsandarrangethegreensarounditThefishwillbedelicatelypoachedbythispointPutthefishfilletsontopofthericeandpourtheclearstockaroundtheoutsideAfive-stagepalatepleaserforcertain
FRESHWATERFISH
Beingisland-dwellerswehavebeenexposedtomorewaterwaysthanmanyotherplacesaroundtheworldandwehavehadthetimeandopportunitytodevelopbetterfishingpracticesInrecentyearsfreshwaterfishhasbeenlabelledashavinganunsavourymuddyqualitytoitThisisnotatotallyunfoundedcommentespeciallyifthefishcomesfromhighsiltcontentwatersthatarerelativelystagnantGiventhestrainthatthefishingindustryisimposingonthemarineenvironmentthoughfreshwaterfishingisagoodsustainablealternativeMoreovernotallfreshwaterfishtastemuddyTroutinseasonforexampledoesnotIfcaughtshortlybeforeorafteritsbreedingperiodthefisharefullofmiltoreggswhichwillmakethemdeceptivelylargerinappearanceandcontributetothatlsquomuddyrsquoorlsquogrittyrsquotasteBewarned
Welikethefactthatthetroutwehaveonourmenucomesfromamanwhohasbeenfishinginthelocalareaforover50yearsWeareconvincedthathisexperienceandknowledgetricklesdowninsomeformorotherandleadstoabetterdishWhenweaskedhimhowfishinginthelocalareahadchangedovertheyearshebelievedthebiggestdifferencetobeintheflyvariationFortyyearsagolargenumbersofbigredsedgeflieswhichthetroutdevouredwerecommonlyseeninmidsummerNowadayssedgesaremuchsmallersothetroutismoredifficulttoenticeNodoubtthisaddstothechallengeandmakesitevenmoreworthwhiletogetacatch
GoatMeatballsMashLovageButterandMustardGreens
BeforewefoundtheWalledGardenweusuallyategoatrsquosmeatonlyatStPaulrsquosCarnivalinthecentreofBristolTherulewasthatwewouldlocatethestallswiththelongestqueuesanddevourasmanyCaribbeancurriesasnecessaryinourquesttofindthebestItwasatthiscalypso-infusedeventthatwehadourannualintakeofsucculentgoatrsquosmeatGoatrsquosmeatwascommonplaceintheUKuntilthemid-seventeenth
centuryNowmostofitisimportedfromeasternEuropeoffthebackofthedairyindustrythereandisrarelyfreerangeThemeatiscertainlyflavoursomebutittendstobetoughwhichmeansthatslowcookingisessentialFromanethicalpointofviewusingwhatwouldotherwisebeaby-productofthedairyindustrymakesperfectsenseManyfarmersseethemalekidsasadrainontheirresourcesOncetheyareborntheyservenopurposesotheyhavetobekilledThisseemsaterriblewasteconsideringtheenergydevotedtobreedingthemOurgoatrsquosmeatsupplierisCabritobasednearWellington(seealsoourCheeseboardhere)ItdoesnotbreedgoatsspecificallytosellonInsteaditbuysthebilliesfromsmall-scalefarmersraisesthemasfree-rangemeatandsellsthemtorestaurantsItrsquosworthaskingyourlocalbutcherwhethertheycantrackdownsomeBritishgoatrsquosmeatWehavenodoubtthatitwillbegintobecomemorepopularandmoreeasilyavailablesoonItwouldbefantasticifin50yearstimeafoodhistorianwroteofthereturnofgoatrsquosmeattotheBritishdietinthefirstpartofthetwenty-firstcenturyTheresponsewehavehadfromcustomerstothisdishhasbeen
overwhelmingthoughnotsurprisingthemeatissucculentandsweetitishighinproteinandironandcontainslessfatthanporkbeeforlambWefindthatmostpeopleareintriguedbythesemeatballsandwanttoknowmoreaboutgoatrsquosmeat
SERVES450gbread1frac12tspsalt1tsplovageseeds(ifnotavailableomitthesaltanduse1frac12tspcelerysalt)1tspcoarselygroundblackpepper
1tspcoarselygroundblackpepperfrac12tspdriedchilliflakes1tspcuminseeds550ggoatrsquosmeatfinelyminced1largeegglightlybeatenrapeseedoil50gonionfinelydiced25gcarrotslicedintohalfmoons25gceleriacfinelydiced250mlbrownchickenstock(seehere)200mlmedium-sweetciderabunchoflargemustardgreenscutintostrips2ndash3cmwidefrac12tspEnglishmustardValorPotatoMash(seehere)toserveseasalt
FORTHELOVAGEBUTTER
100mlbrownchickenstock(seehere)2tsplovageseeds(orahandfuloflovageleaves)75mlwhitewine3eggyolks185gcoldunsaltedbuttercutinto1cmcubesadashofvintagecidervinegarsuchasOstlerrsquos
Heattheovento180degCGasMark4BlitzthebreadsaltandspicesinablenderorfoodprocessortomakefinecrumbsPuttheminabowladdthemincedgoatrsquosmeatandeggandmixthoroughlyDividethemixtureinto12andshapeintoballsIthelpstorubalittlecookingoilontoyourhandstostopthemeatsticking
Heatalittlerapeseedoilinasmallsaucepanaddtheonioncarrotandceleriacthencoverandsweatoveralow-mediumheatuntilthevegetablesarebeginningtosoftenRemovefromtheheatandsetaside
PutthemeatballsinadeepbakingtininwhichtheyjustfitinasinglelayerPouroverthechickenstockandciderandaddthesoftenedvegetables
PouroverthechickenstockandciderandaddthesoftenedvegetablesCoverwithfoilplaceintheovenandroastfor30minutesTakeoffthefoilandroastfor10minuteslongeruntilthemeatballsarenutbrownincolourwheretheysitabovetheliquid
Meanwhilemakethelovagebutterputthestocklovageseedsandwineinasaucepanandboiluntilreducedbytwo-thirdsitsvolume(ifusingfreshlovageadditaftertheliquidhasreducedandleavetoinfusefor20minutes)StrainthemixturethroughafinesieveintoaheatproofbowlandallowtocoolslightlyWhiskintheeggyolksPlacethebowloverapanofsimmeringwatermakingsurethewaterdoesnottouchthebaseofthebowlWhiskuntilthemixturebecomesthickandairyAtthispointstartwhiskinginthebutteronecubeatatimewaitinguntilithascompletelymeltedbeforeaddingthenextpieceAfterafewpiecesofbutterhavebeenaddedyoucanstartadding2or3cubesatatimeThemorebutteryouincorporatethemoreyoucanaddeachtimeSeasontotastewithseasaltandadashofcidervinegarifyouwish
PlaceafryingpanoveramediumheatWhenitishotaddafilmofrapeseedoilfollowedbythemustardgreensmustardandsalttotasteCookstirringfrequentlyuntiltheleaveshavewilted
Servethemeatballsimmediatelywiththemashwiltedgreensandlovagebutter
daggerWhenweresearchedtheeatingofgoatmeatinthiscountrywefoundthatitwascommonplaceuntilabout1650LuciusColumellatheprominentRomanagriculturalwriterrecommendedthatevensickgoatswouldbefitforhumanconsumptioniftheyweresaltedanddrycuredIntheElizabethanerathephysicianThomasMoufetmaintainedthatoldgoatsshouldbeeatenbytenderisingthemBycontrastroastkidwasafavouriteseventeenth-centuryspringtimedishIntheeighteenthcenturytheWelshnaturalistThomasPennantreportedthatkidswerealsquocheapandplentifulprovisioninthewintermonthsrsquowhiledriedandsaltedgoathaunchesknownaslsquohungvenisonrsquowereeateninsteadofbaconInhisbookofBritishzoologyheclaimedlsquoThismakesanexcellentpastygoesunderthenameofrockvenisonandislittleinferiortothatofdeerThusnatureprovidesevenonthetopsofhighandcraggymountainsnotonlynecessariesbutdelicaciesfortheinhabitantsrsquo(BritishZoology1776)
OxTonguewithSwedeParsleyandCiderVinegar
TongueshouldberegardedunsqueamishlyasanexcellentcutofmeatsuitableforuseinadiverserangeofdishesInVictoriantimesitcertainlywouldhavemadeanappearanceonthecoldtableOnecombinationthatdatesbacktothefourteenthcenturydescribedbyDorothyHartleyaslsquoalwayspopularwiththemenfolkrsquowasarichthickandcreamymustardsaucepouredoverslicesofoxtongueThisrecipeandthefollowingonerequireyoutobrineyourowntongue
PatiencereallyisavirtueinthiscaseaweekofbriningfollowedbyacomparativelyshorttimeinthepotandyouareleftwithadeliciouspieceofmeatTongueisgreatinsaladsinasandwichorroastedwithvegetablesWecouldgoon
SERVES4WITHLEFTOVERS
1oxtongue200gswedepeeledandcutinto25cmcubes5staranise50mldoublecreamabunchofradishesfinelysliced50gflat-leafparsleyleavesrapeseedoilalittlecidervinegarseasaltsmokedseasalttoserve(optional)
FORTHEBRINE
200gcastersugar300gseasalt6juniperberries3cloves3staranise6blackpeppercorns6lovageseeds(orfennelseeds)2bayleaves
2bayleaves
FORCOOKINGTHETONGUE
100gonionfinelydiced50gcarrotfinelydiced50gceleriacorceleryfinelydiced10parsleystalks2bayleaves10peppercorns4staranise2cloves
Putalltheingredientsforthebrineinalargesaucepanadd2litresofwaterandbringtotheboilstirringoccasionallytodissolvethesugarandsaltRemovefromtheheatandleavetocoolthenplaceinthefridgeandchilluntilthetemperatureisbelow5degCPutthetongueinthebrineandweightitdownwithanon-reactiveitemndashsomethingwoodenplasticorceramicwilldothetrickMakesurethetongueiscompletelysubmergedCoverandleaveinthefridgeforaweek
Drainandrinsethetonguethenputitinalargesaucepanwith2litresofwaterandalltheingredientslistedforcookingthetongueBringtoasimmercoverandcookverygentlyfor4hourscheckingthewaterlevelhourlyandtoppingitupasnecessaryRemovethetonguefromitscookingliquorandleaveuntilcoolenoughtohandlethenpeelitItisimportanttopeelitwhileitisstillwarmotherwisethefatssolidifymakingthistaskmuchmoredifficult
TocooktheswedeplacethestaraniseinasaucepanaquarterfullofwaterandsetasteamerbasketoverthetopBringtoasimmerPlacetheswedeinthebasketcoverandsteamfor35ndash40minutesuntiltenderTransfertheswedetoablenderorfoodprocessoraddthecreamandblitzuntilcompletelysmoothSeasonwithsaltandleavetocool
Thinlysliceabout200gofthetongueSpoontheswedepureacuteeonto4servingplatesandtopwiththetongueslicedradishesandparsleyLightlydrizzlealittlerapeseedoilovertheparsleyandfinallyaddafewsplashesofcidervinegarandasprinklingofsmokedsaltifyouhaveit
cidervinegarandasprinklingofsmokedsaltifyouhaveit
daggerInEnglandtheuseofoxencastratedmalesbothfordraftpullingcartsandploughingandforbeefwasoncegeneralpracticeFourpairsofoxenwouldpullaplougheachanimalagedwithayearbetweenStaggeringthepairsmeantthateachyeartwowouldbefattenedforbeefandsoldthuspayingtheirwayTheEnclosuresActsofthelateeighteenthandearlynineteenthcenturieswhichreducedfieldsizeshastenedtheendoftheoxrsquosuseastheteamsofeightneededenoughspacetoturnattheendofeachfurrowBythebeginningofthetwentiethcenturythemorehigh-maintenancehorsewasfavouredforitsspeedandmanoeuvrabilityandeventuallyreplacedthedependableoxTodaywearenoteatingthedraftcattlethatourancestorswouldhaveknownbutinfactbeefcattleandinsomecasescalves
OxTonguewithCauliflowerGilliflowerandHazelnuts
InherbookFoodandDrinkinBritainCAnneWilsonreferstothepracticeofeatingtonguewithgilliflowersmorecommonlyknownascarnationsTheyhaveaflavourthatverycloselyresemblescloveThispairinghasbeenallbutforgottenaboutApparentlyifawitchtriestokillyouyoushouldhandheraredcarnationasshewillhavetocountthepetalsgivingyouenoughtimetofinishyouroxtongueandgilliflowerdinnerandescapeanynastyspells
SERVES41cauliflowerdividedintoflorets2tbspplainflourfrac14tspgroundcloves2eggslightlybeatenwithapinchofsalt30gbutter200goxtonguebrinedandcookedasintherecipeonherethencutinto12slices50ghazelnutstoastedinadryfryingpanandthendustedwithfrac14tsp
groundcinnamon1tablespoonroastedcobnutoil(orwalnutoil)
FORTHEGILLIFLOWERSYRUP
abunchoforganiccarnations(besuretouseonesthathavenrsquotbeensprayed)100mlcidervinegar100gicingsugarplus2tbsp
YouwillneedtopreparethegilliflowersyrupafewdaysinadvanceCutthepetalsfrom3carnationsandputtheminabowlCoverwiththecidervinegarandthenstirinthe100gicingsugarWeightdownwithaplateandsetasidefor3daysatroomtemperature
Onthedayyouwanttoservethesaladtrimthepetalsfrom2flowerheadsrinsethemandspindryinasaladspinnerDrythepetalsonateatoweltocatchthelastdropsofmoisturepreventinganyflavourlossStrainthegilliflowersyrupandtasteitTherewillbenotesofcloveandpepperthoughitmayneedsweeteningalittlefurtherwithicingsugartomellowthevinegarSet2tablespoonsofthesyrupasideaddingthe2tablespoonsoficingsugartoitReservethistocaramelisetheoxtonguebeforeserving
Cookthecauliflowerfloretsinlightlysimmeringsaltedwaterforabout10minutesuntilaldenteDraincoolinice-coldwateranddrainagainverythoroughlyMixtheflourwiththegroundclovesDustthecauliflowerfloretsinthismixtureandthendipthemintothebeateneggsHeatthebutterinafryingpanandfrythecauliflowerinitinsmallbatchestillgolden
Afterfryingthecauliflowercleanoutthepanwithkitchenpaperandplaceitoveramedium-highheatBrushtheoxtonguesliceswiththecaramelisingsyrupandplaceinthehotpanCookwithoutmovingthemuntilyoucanseethembrowningattheedgesthenturnandcolourtheothersidetoo
Assemblethedishbyarrangingthecaulifloweroxtongueandpetalson4servingplatesDropthecinnamon-dustedhazelnutsontopanddresswiththegilliflowersyrupandroastedcobnutoil
SaltMarshLambwithTidalGreens
InEnglandthebenefitsofsalt-marshgrazinghavebeenknownsincethethirteenthcenturyyetformanyyearsthevastmajorityofthemeathasbeenexportedtoFrancewhereitisrecognisedasadelicacyInEnglishFood(MichaelJoseph1974)JaneGrigsonwrotelsquoPeoplelivingaroundRomneyMarshhelliphavetolookacrossatflocksofsheepfeedingonthesaltmarshesandknowthatthemeatwillbypasstheirbutchersandbeservedtotouristsinNormandyBrittanyandParisasagneaupreacute-saleacutespecialiteacutedelamaisonpricetomatchrsquoHoweversaltmarshlambisonceagainbecomingavailablehereFarmerswithcoastalpasturebringtheirflocktotheseamarshesinspringwhentheweatherimprovessothesheepcangrazeclosetothewaterrsquosedgefeedingonseavegetationsuchassamphiresorrelsealavenderandthriftWetookaforagingcoursethatambledthroughthesaltmarshonthe
SevernwherethelambwebuyfortherestaurantgrazeWelearnedaboutedibleseagrassesseakaleandseabeetandrealisedthatwehadsomenewgreenstoservealongsidethisprimelambshoulderWealsoserveitwithfathenacommonplantoftenconsideredtobeaweedwhichgrowsingardensroadsidevergesandhedgerows
SERVES6ndash81tinofanchoviesdrained1shoulderofsaltmarshlambbonedweighingabout2kgrapeseedoil4onionscutintoquarters4largecarrotspeeledbutleftwhole4spearsofrosemaryabunchofparsley1headofgarliccutinhalfthroughitsequator200mldryvermouth1kgnewpotatoesaknobofbutterasmallbunchofmintchopped
FORTHESALTMARSHGREENS
abunchofseaarrowgrassorPickledSamphire(seehere)abunchofseaarrowgrassabunchofseabeet(canbereplacedwithspinachorkale)abunchofseakale(canbereplacedwithpurplesproutingbroccoli)abunchoffathen(canbereplacedwithspinach)aknobofbutter
Heattheovento160degCGasMark3ThefirsttaskistogettheanchoviesintothemeatspikethelambinseveralplaceswithasmallknifeworkingitunderthetoplayerofthefleshlaterallyratherthandownwardsPushtheanchovyfilletsintotheincisionsTheywilldissolveduringthelongcookingprocessseasoningthemeatandnegatingtheneedtosaltthejointfurtherEvenifyouarenotkeenontheserichsaltyandumamifishfilletsweurgeyounottoomitthemThefinalflavourwillnotbeoffishbutofseasonedlamb
Heatathinfilmofrapeseedoilinalargeheavy-basedfryingpanaddthelambshoulderandsearoverahighheatuntilbrownedalloverPuttheonionscarrotsrosemaryparsleyandgarlicinaroastingtinandplacethelambontopPourinthevermouthcoverwithfoilandplaceintheovenRoastfor3frac12ndash4hoursuntilyouhaveatenderroastofthehighestorderRemovefromtheovenandleavetorestforatleast20minutes
ScrubthepotatoesandcutthemsotheyareallroughlythesamesizeasthesmallestonesCookinboilingsaltedwateruntiltenderthendrainwellandtosswithaknobofbutterandthemint
Washthegreensandthenblanchthemwholeinfast-boilingwell-saltedwaterfor1minuteDrainwellandtosswithaknobofbutterServethelambwiththegreensandpotatoes
daggerAttherestaurantweusuallysourceabreedcalledSuffolkCrossCharolloisThebreedwasfirstimportedfromFrancein1976originallyfromthetownofCharollesintheSaocircneLoireregionofFrancewhereitgrazesalongsidethefamousCharollaisCattleOurbutcherbuysourlambfromfarmsbasedonthebanksoftheRiverSevernnearFramptononSevernTheyareslaughteredatStonehouseGloucestershireandsohave
lessthan5foodmilesattributabletothemThewildseaplantsonwhichourlambfeedarehighinsaltlevelsandiodinemakingthemusclecellsinthefleshretainmoremoistureThemeatisconsequentlysweeterjuicierandnotaspinkasmountainlamb
SteamedRabbitPudding
RabbithashistoricallybeenregardedaspoormanrsquosgameItwasoneoftheonlywildanimalsthatcommonerswereallowedtohunttherestbeingreservedforthecrownorthegentryTodaypeoplearescepticalaboutcookingwithrabbitbutitisundoubtedlygrowinginpopularityAtTheEthicureanwecookonlywildrabbitsfavouringtheirfirmtextureandgameyflavourMuchoftherabbitavailableinshopsisfarmedPleaseavoidbuyingthisasittendstobeblandandaltogetheruninterestingInsteadaskyourbutchertoorderyouayoungwildrabbitItisagooddealeasiertoidentifytheageofarabbitthathasthepelt(fur)
stillattachedAnoldtoughrabbitwillhaveascruffypatchycoatwornclawstoughearsandbrokenanddamagedteethThereislittletodowiththeseinthekitchenbutslowroastthemAyoungrabbitshouldhaveaglossyhealthycoatgoodstrongclawsandpliableearsInthisrecipeweemployagreatBritishtraditionthesteamedsuet
puddingBeforesealingtherabbitinthepastrywepressure-cookitwholeinMorganSweetciderfromthelowerorchardWehaveseentheoddappledropandlandonarabbitrsquosheadTheironyisnotlostonus
SERVES48springonionsouterlayerandrootsremoved1rabbitskinnedkidneysremoved1bottle(330ml)PerryrsquosMorganSweetciderorothergoodsweetcider5sprigsofthyme5blackpeppercornsseasalt
FORTHESUETPASTRY
300gself-raisingflourapinchofsalt150gcoarselygratedbeefsuetbutterforgreasing
PlaceagriddleoverahighheatandleaveforafewminutestogetveryhotAddthespringonionsandcookturningoccasionallyuntiltheyarecharred
AddthespringonionsandcookturningoccasionallyuntiltheyarecharredandtenderPlacetheminapressurecookerwiththewholerabbitciderthymeandpeppercornsAttachthelidandplaceonthehighestheatuntilitisatfullpressurethenturntheheatdownandcookfor1frac12hoursRemovefromtheheatandleavetocooltoroomtemperaturebeforeremovingthelid(Ifyoudonrsquothaveapressurecookercooktherabbitinacoveredpanoveralowheatfor3hourscheckingtheliquidleveleveryhourorsoandaddingmoreciderifnecessary)TaketherabbitoutofthecookerreservingtheliquidThoroughlyflakeallthemeatfromthebonesPlacethemeatinasaucepanstrainthecookingliquidthroughwetmuslinorafinesieveandcookoveramedium-highheatuntiltheliquidhasalmostcompletelyevaporatedSeasonwithsalttotaste
TomakethepastrysifttheflourintoabowladdthesaltandsuetandmixwellwithaknifeSlowlyadd200mlwaterstirringitintomakeadoughTurnoutontoaflouredsurfaceandkneadlightlyforacoupleofminutesthenrolloutto5mmthickGreasea12litrepuddingbasinwellwithbutterthenlineitwiththesuetpastryreservingaboutaquarterforthelidFillthebasinwiththerabbitRolloutthereservedpastrytofitthetopofthebasinthenputitoverthefillingandpinchtheedgestogetherTrimoffanyexcesspastry
Takeapieceoffoillargeenoughtocoverthetopofthebasingenerouslyandfolda2ndash3cmpleatinthecentretoallowroomforexpansionCoverthebasinwiththefoiltuckingitundertherimtosealPlaceonawirestandinsidethepressurecookerandaddacoupleofinchesofwatertothepanAttachthelidtothepressurecookerandplaceoverahighheattobringittofullpressureReducetheheatandcookonfullpressurefor1frac14hours(Alternativelyyoucouldsteamtherabbitinaconventionalsteamerfor2frac12hours)RemovefromtheheatandallowtocoolalittlethenturnthepuddingoutontoalargeservingplateDiverightin
PorkJuniperandBlackIPAPie
InBritaintherelationshipsbetweenapplesbeerporkandpiesareasoldasthehillsThereismuchtocelebrateonourlittleislandandtheporkpieshouldbeworshippedattheveryleastonceaweekAlittlesmudgeof
shouldbeworshippedattheveryleastonceaweekAlittlesmudgeofmustardasliceofpiebalancedonthekneewithagoodpausebetweeneachbiteThisisapiethatmustbeeatenoutdoorsandhelpedonitswaywithagoodbestbitterordryciderWemustconfessthattheeccentricitiesofthisrecipeevolvedfromthe
greatFrenchtraditionofmakingcoarseporkterrinesWelovejuniperndashitsheadyresinousfragranceisthedelightofgindrinkersanditistrulyathomewithporkTheFrenchndashandthelategreatKeithFloydndashwouldtumbleinaclaretsavingthelastthirdofthebottleasacookrsquosperkandanothertoenjoyduringbakingWeforgowinehereforanIndiaPaleAle(IPA)andablackIPAatthatThisisnrsquotmerelyforpatrioticeffectbutbecauseofthewonderfullyhoppednatureofanIPAandtheroastedmaltybasethatcomesfromtheinclusionofdarkmaltMoorBeerbasedinPitneyinSomersetmakesaverygoodblackIPAcalledIllusionJustyntheheadbrewerrefusestoaddfinningstoclearhisbeersayinglsquoWhywouldIwanttheswimbladdersoffishinmypintpurelyforclarityrsquoHehasapointIfyoucannotfindablackIPAagoodregularIPAwilldoverywellindeedEvenifyouareunfamiliarwiththenamehot-watercrustpastryyouwill
undoubtedlyhaveeatenitifyouhaveeverindulgedinagoodporkpieItiscommonlyusedformakinghand-raisedpiesandisanimportantpartofMatthewandIainrsquosinfamouslsquopieoffsrsquoThetwoarerarelycompetitivebutwhenitcomestohand-raisingporkpies(ratherthantakingtheeasieroptionofmakingtheminamouldasbelow)wewilloftenhearthewordslsquoItrsquosonrsquofromthekitchenndashthendeadlysilenceensueswhilethetwometiculouslygoaboutshapingtheirpiesOncethepiesareintheoventhebanterandteasingbeginlsquoWaaahyourpiersquosdefinitelygoingtocrackrsquolsquoWhateverYoursissowonkyitrsquosnotevengonnastanduprightrsquoItisapastrythatcontradictstraditionalmethodsofpastrymakingneedingtobeusedwarmsoitcanbeshapedDonotletthisintimidateyoundashthisisaveryeasyandfunpastrytoworkwith
SERVES8
FORTHEFILLING
13kgporkbellymincedonacoarsesetting(askyourbutcherforthebones)200gpigrsquoslivercutinto1cmcubes200gmincedbeef10smokedstreakybaconrasherscutinto2cmpieces
10smokedstreakybaconrasherscutinto2cmpieces2garlicclovesfinelysliced15blackpeppercornsplus1tspfreshlygroundblackpepper17juniperberrieslightlycrushedfrac12tspgroundmace250mlblackIPA(orregularIPA)75mlSomersetciderbrandy1tbspfineseasalt
FORTHEJELLY
thebonesfromtheporkbelly3ndash4pigrsquostrotters1largecarrotfinelysliced1largeonionfinelysliced1bayleaf5sprigsofthyme12blackpeppercorns2ndash3lovageleaves(orceleryleaves)seasalt
FORTHEHOT-WATERCRUSTPASTRY
450gstrongwhiteflourfrac12tspsalt1tbspicingsugar1egg80glarddiced80gbutterdiced1egglightlybeatentoglaze
FirstmakethejellyPutalltheingredientsexceptthelovageandsaltinapanadd15litresofwaterandbringtotheboilReducetheheattoasimmerandcookuncoveredfor2hoursmeticulouslyskimmingoffanyscumthatrisestothesurfaceStrainthroughafinesieveintoacleanpanandbringtotheboilBoiluntilreducedtoaquarterofitsvolumethenremove
fromtheheatNowitrsquostimetotestwhetherithasreducedtothecorrectconsistencyPutatablespoonoftheliquidonaplateandleaveitinthefridgefor20minutesPushyourfingerthroughthemiddleoftheliquidIftheliquidbeginstocrinklethenitrsquosreadyIfnotcontinuetoreduceitoverahighheatforafewmoreminutesthentestagainWhenthecorrectconsistencyisachievedbringtheliquidtotheboiladdthelovageleavesandturnofftheheatLeavethelovagetoinfusefor20minutesthenremoveanddiscardTasteoncemoreandseasonwithseasaltaccordingly
YoucouldmakethestockforthejellyinapressurecookerFollowtheinstructionsabovebutcookatfullpressurefor80ndash90minutesRemovefromtheheatandallowtocooltoroomtemperaturebeforeremovingthelidThenstrainreduceandtestasabove
PutalltheingredientsforthefillinginabowlandmixwithyourhandsuntilthoroughlycombinedSetasidewhileyoumakethepastry
Heattheovento180degCGasMark4TomakethepastrymixthefloursaltandicingsugartogetherinalargebowlMakeawellinthecentreandaddtheeggCovertheeggwiththeflourPutthelardandbutterinasaucepanwith200mlwaterGraduallybringthewatertoasimmerandleaveuntilthefatshavemeltedSlowlypourthewaterandfatintotheflourCuttogetherwithaknifeuntiladoughhasstartedtoformthenturnoutontoaflouredsurfaceandkneadlightlyuntilglossyandsmoothndashacoupleofminutesmaximumUseimmediately
SetasideathirdofthepastryforthelidRollouttherestonalightlyflouredsurfaceto5mmthickandusetolinea23cmpiemouldorspringformcaketinTrimtheexcesspastryhangingovertheedgesandputtoonesideSpooninthefillingpressingitdowngentlysoitisevenlydistributedRolloutthereservedpastry3mmthicktomakealidPutitontopofthepieandpinchittothepastryedgesotherearenogapsYoucangentlyshapetherimintoaprettydesignshouldyousowishMakeasmallholeinthecentreforventing
Rolloutthepastrytrimmingsto3ndash5mmthickCutastrip5cmwideandasimilarlengthtothepieCutdiagonallyintostripsallthewaydowntheentirelengthandthenagaintheotherwaysowhatyouareleftwithare
diamondsinthecentreandhalfdiamondsontheedge(seethephotoopposite)
BrushthepiewiththebeateneggtoglazethenlaytheextrapastryinastripacrossthetopofthepieinadesignofyourchoiceleavingtheventholeclearLightlyglazetheextrapastrypieceswitheggthenplacethepieintheovenandbakefor20minutesTurntheovendownto160degCGasMark3andbakeforafurther45ndash60minutesuntilthejuicesrunclear(ifyouhaveaprobethermometertheinternaltemperatureofthepieshouldbe86degC)Ifthepieisbrowningtooquicklywhichcanoftenhappencoverittightlywithfoil
AllowthepietocooltoroomtemperaturethencarefullyremoveitfromthemouldIfthejellyhassetwarmitslightlysoitisjustliquidSlowlypourthejellyinthroughthesteamventuntilthepieisfullPlaceinthefridgefor2ndash4hourstosetthejelly
daggerWedoenjoyasplashofSomersetCiderBrandyinourpieJulianTemperleyhasmadeasuccessofdistillingcideralongwiththehelpofhistwocontinuousstillsJosephineandFifiThisisnopoorrelationofCognacbutaformidablespiritthathasafloralspiceandadepththathasbeenbroughttolifeontheSomersetlevelsJulianrsquosexperimentswithblendsbarrelsandageinghavefurnishedourrestaurantwithenoughmarvellousdrinkstokeepanySomersetciderfarmerrosie-cheeked
PearlBarleywithOldDemdikeandStGeorgersquosMushroom
Weloveumami-richfoodsandmushroomsandcheesearefantasticsourcesofitUmamiorsavouryflavourisnowconsideredtobethefifthbasictastendashtheothersbeingsweetsoursaltyandbitterTomatoescheesessuchasParmesanandCheddarandmushroomsarepackedfullofitThisdishisverysimilartotheItalianorzottoOrzottoislikerisottoonly
pearlbarleyisusedeasilymatchingthequalityofCarnaroliorVialoneNanoriceWhenrisottosandorzottosarewellexecutedtheyareadelightndashheartysoothingandoftennostalgicndashyettheycanbeimproveduponfurtherwiththeuseoftexturalcontrastsandburstsofflavouraswedointhisrecipeHereintenselyflavouredmushroomjelliesaddaburstofrichumamiandatexturalcontrastStGeorgersquosmushroomsgivehintsofwatermelonandcucumberwhileaewersquoscheesecrispaddsafineaestheticfinishtoanalreadystunningdish
SERVES4150goldDemdikecheesegrated300gpearlbarley2tbsprapeseedoil200gonionsfinelydiced150gcarrotsfinelydiced200gceleriacfinelydiced250mlredwine350mlmushroomstock(seehere)10ndash15smallStGeorgersquosmushroomsquartered(ifunavailableuseoystermushrooms)
1tbspchoppedparsleyMushroomJelly(seehere)madewithsmokedsaltifpossibleseasalt
Tomaketheewersquoscheesecrispsarrange50gofthegratedcheeseinanovalshapeonapieceofbakingparchmentPlaceanotherpieceofparchmentontopandrollitoutintoathinlayerTurnoutintoafryingpanandplaceona
topandrollitoutintoathinlayerTurnoutintoafryingpanandplaceonamedium-lowheatuntilthecheesehasmeltedandthebottomhasbeguntobrownlightlyPutthepanunderahotgrillandleaveuntilthecheeseisanevengolden-browncolouralloverLeavetocoolthenbreakinto4piecesandsetaside
PlacethepearlbarleyinasaucepancoverwithcoldwaterandbringtotheboilDrainwellthenrepeatDrainandsetasideHeathalftherapeseedoilinasaucepanaddtheonionscarrotsandceleriacandcookoveramediumheatuntiltheybegintosoftenDonotallowthemtocolourStirinthepearlbarleyfollowedbytheredwineandcookuntilthewinehasbeencompletelyabsorbedbythebarleyAddthemushroomstockaladlefulatatimewaitingforittobefullyabsorbedbeforeaddingthenextContinuefor10ndash15minutesuntilthepearlbarleyiscookedbutstillhasaslightresistancetothebite
MeanwhileheattheremainingrapeseedoilinafryingpanaddthemushroomsandfryoverahighheatuntiltenderandgoldenbrownAddthemtothepearlbarleyreservingafewforgarnishingStirintheremaininggratedcheeseandtheparsleyandseasonwithsaltServegarnishedwiththeremainingfriedmushroomsthemushroomjelliesandthecheesecrisps
RhubarbandCustard
MostpeoplecredittheeccentricVictorianswithplacingjelliesfirmlyontheBritishgastronomymapAfterallitwastheVictorianaristocracywhoexcelledatusingdecorativejelliesatbanquetstodisplaytheirpowerandsocialstandingInfactjellieshadbeenaroundforcenturiespreviouslyandsavouryjellieswerecommonatmedievalfeastsWecreatedthisdessertinhonourofRobertMayaseventeenth-century
cookwhointroducedfruitjelliestotheEnglishtableandmetwithasurprisingamountofresistanceThissuperblyflavouredjellyconsistsoftwoingredientsthatwethinkweremeanttobetogetherndashrhubarbandcustardYoudonrsquotnecessarilyhavetolayerthemexactlyasdescribedbelowYoucouldmakethinnerlayersoraddaborderofjellyetcGetcreativeJustbesuretoseteachlayerfullybeforeaddingmore
SERVES6
FORTHERHUBARBJELLY
15kgrhubarbcutinto2cmpieces150gcastersugar13ggelatine
FORTHECUSTARD
600mldoublecream1vanillapod8eggyolks200gcastersugar11ggelatine
FORTHERHUBARBCOMPOTE(OPTIONAL)
2largerhubarbstalkscutinto1ndash2cmpiecesafewtbspcastersugartotaste
Forthejellyput650mlwaterinapanandbringtotheboilPlaceasteamerbasketoverthetoplargeenoughtoholdtherhubarbAddtherhubarbtothebasketcoverwithatight-fittinglidandsteamoveralowheatfor1hourIftoomuchsteamisescapingputalayeroffoiloverthepanandputthelidon
toomuchsteamisescapingputalayeroffoiloverthepanandputthelidontopofthefoil
WhiletherhubarbissteamingmakethecustardPourthecreamintoaheavy-basedsaucepanSlitthevanillapodopenlengthwiseandscrapeouttheseedsAddtheseedsandpodtothecreamandbringtojustbelowboilingpointthenremovefromtheheatandcoolslightlyWhisktheeggyolksandsugartogetherinalargebowluntiltheyolksbecomepaleandthesugarisfullyincorporatedPourthecreamthroughafinesieveontotheeggyolkswhiskuntilsmoothandthentransfertoacleansaucepanPutthegelatinesheetsintoabowlofice-coldwaterandleavetosoakfor10minutes
HeatthecustardmixturegentlystirringconstantlyAfterafewminutesitwillbegintothickenItisvitaltostirallpartsthoroughlytopreventanyofthemixtureovercooking(Ifyouhaveadigitalthermometerthenthisisagoodtimetouseitthecustardshouldbenomorethan85degCotherwiseitwillscramble)WhenithasthickenedenoughtocoatthebackofthespoonwithoutrunningoffremovefromtheheatandplacethepanbrieflyinabowlofcoldwatertostopitcookingfurtherStrainthecustardthroughasieveintoabowlSqueezeoutanyexcessliquidfromthegelatineandaddthegelatinetothecustardstirringuntilcompletelydissolvedCoolthecustardquicklybyplacingthebowlinacoupleofinchesofcoldwaterinthesinkthenchillinthefridge
CUSTARD
InabusykitchenmakingcustardfromscratchisabitofatreatAsimplejobitisachancetostandstillandfocusononetaskit
forcesyoutoslowdownphysicallyandmentallySlowlywatchinghowtheviscosityofthecustardchangeswhilestirringconstantlyisquiteagroundingexerciseItisamomentwhenyoutakeinthesoundsandsmellsaroundyouandregainsome
clarityamidstalltheactivity
clarityamidstalltheactivity
Whentherhubarbhassteamedfor1hourremovefromtheheatanddiscardtherhubarbAllthejuiceandflavourfromtherhubarbwillbeinthewaterinthepanunderneathsokeepthisMeasureout450mloftherhubarb-infusedwaterintoacleansaucepanaddthesugarandheatgentlystirringuntildissolvedSoftenthegelatineinice-coldwaterasforthecustardSqueezeoutanyexcesswaterandaddthegelatinetothepanofftheheatStiruntilcompletelydissolvedthensetaside
Tosetthejellyyouwillneeda1-litreterrinejellymouldorbowlIfusingaterrineverylightlyoiltheinsideusingapastrybrushthenlinewithalayerofclingfilmOncetheterrineislinedwithclingfilmithelpstofilltheterrinewithwaterwhichenablesyoutoremoveanyremainingairbubblesfromtheedgesoftheterrineDiscardthewaterandgentlypatdrywithkitchenrollIgnorethisprocessifusingajellymouldorbowl
Pouralayerofjellyintoyourchosenreceptacletillabout1ndash2cmdeepPlaceinthefridgefor1frac12hoursoruntilsetfirmPuthalfthecustardinapanplaceoverthelowestpossibleheatandstircontinuouslyuntilfluidPourthecustardintothemouldoverabackofaspoonheldjustabovetherhubarbjellyThisslowsitsfallmakingitlesslikelytobreakthejellyapartPourthecustardoverthefirstlayerofrhubarbjellyandreturntothefridgeLeavefor2hoursoruntilcompletelyfirm
TakeouttheremainingjellyandplaceinasaucepanoveralowheatuntilfluidPouroverthesetlayerofcustard(usingaspoonasyoudidbefore)andreturntothefridgeuntilcompletelysetThenheattheremainingcustarduntilfluidandpouritintothemouldoverthebackofaspoonasbeforeLeaveinthefridgepreferablyovernightuntilset
Tomakethecompoteputtherhubarbinasaucepanjustbigenoughtoholditinasinglelayerandadd2tablespoonsofwaterCookcoveredoveralow-mediumheatuntiltherhubarbbeginstobreakdownStirinsugartotasteandcontinuetocookuntilthecompoteistheconsistencyofrunnyjam
tasteandcontinuetocookuntilthecompoteistheconsistencyofrunnyjamRemovefromtheheatandleavetocool
Turnthejellyoutofthemouldandservewiththecompoteifliked
daggerTheVictorianerawasthehey-dayofjellymakingthoughjellieshadbeenaroundforcenturiesInTudorandStuarttimesitwascommonforthegentrytobuildsummerhousesintheirgardensjustsothattheirbanquetingguestshadsomewherequietwheretheycouldenjoythefinaljellycourseAssugarbecamemorewidelyavailabledessert-makersmadethemostofitBytheseventeenthcenturysweetjellieswerethenormseasonedwithrosewaterandspicesOthercreationsincludedtransparentpuddingsinwhichlayersofslicedalmondsraisinscitronandcandiedlemonwerevisiblethroughthejelly
ChocolateandSaltCaramelBrownieswithCherryandElderflowerSauce
TherearecountlessrecipesforchocolatebrowniesandinitiallywethoughtthatperhapsthereweretoomanyalreadyHowevergiventhatourlocalareahassuchanillustrioushistoryinchocolateproductionwefeltitwasonlyfairtocomeupwithourownchocolaterecipeWehavetheindustriousVictorianstothankformakingchocolateavailabletothewiderpublicItwasinfactafactoryinBristolownedbyJSFryampSonsthatproducedthefirstchocolatebarin1847ThecompanywentontoproducesomeofourchildhoodfavouritessuchasFryrsquosChocolateCreamandTurkishDelightWeliketouseOriginalBeanschocolatebecauseofitsqualityandthe
companyrsquosethicswhichcloselymatchourownCo-foundedbytheenvironmentalistentrepreneurPhilippKauffmanOriginalBeansisrenownedforitszerocarbonpoliciesandpassionforsustainablefarmingTheadditionofsaltcaramelisprimarilytoenhancethesweetnessofthe
browniealthoughwehavetoadmitthatitdoesaddalottotheoverallpresentationtoo
SERVES4WITHPLENTYOFBROWNIESLEFTFORTOMORROW
250gdarkchocolateatleast72percentcocoasolids170gunsaltedbutter300gcastersugar3largeeggslightlybeaten1eggyolk80mlrapeseedoil60gplainflourfrac12tspbakingpowderfrac12tspsalt70gorganiccocoapowder50gSaltCaramel(seehere)plusextratoserve
FORTHECHERRYANDELDERFLOWERSAUCE
100gfrozensourcherries
100gfrozensourcherries50gElderflowerSyrup(seehere)orelderflowercordial
Heattheovento180degCGasMark4Lightlygreasea23cmspringformcaketin
Melt200gofthechocolateinabowlplacedoverapanoflightlysimmeringwatermakingsurethewaterdoesnottouchthebaseofthebowlRemovefromtheheat
UsinganelectricwhiskorafreestandingmixerfittedwiththepaddleattachmentbeatthebutterandsugartogetheruntilpaleandlightChangethemixerattachmenttoawhiskorcontinueusingtheelectricwhiskSlowlyaddtheeggsandtheextrayolknomorethanatablespoonatatimewhiskingthoroughlybetweeneachadditionSlowlyaddtherapeseedoilandwhiskthemixtureforafurther5minutesuntilithasaglossysilkyappearance
SiftintheflourbakingpowdersaltandcocoapowderandwhiskbrieflyuntilincorporatedUsingametalspoonfoldinthemeltedchocolatePourthemixtureintothecaketinandsmooththetopRoughlychoptheremainingchocolateandlightlypushthepiecesintothesurfaceofthecakemixRepeattheprocesswiththesaltcaramelpiecesPlaceinthecentreofovenandbakefor25minutesoruntilaknifeinsertedinthecentrecomesawaywithalittlecakemixtureattacheditshouldnotlookraw
Ifitdoesreturntotheoventestingevery3minutesRemovefromtheovenandleavetocoolonawirerack
AllowtocooltoroomtemperatureonawiretrayMeanwhileputthecherriesandelderflowersyrupinasmallsaucepanandcookoveramediumheatforabout10minutesuntilsyrupyLeavetocoolalittlebeforeserving
ThebrowniescanbeservedhotorcoldTurnoutandslicethenservewithshardsofsaltcaramelbrokenovereachportionandthewarmsyruppouredoverThebrowniescanberefrigeratedforupto5daysbutyouwouldneedagreatdealofwillpowerforthemtolastthatlongFreezingisagoodwaytolengthentheirlifeandithastheaddedbonusofincreasingthefudginess
Elderflowersyrup
100mlwater100gcastersugar2largeheadsofelderflower
Put100gcastersugarinapanwith100mlwaterandbringtotheboilstirringtodissolvethesugarImmediatelyremovefromtheheatandadd2largeheadsofelderflowerLeavetoinfusefor20minutesthenstrainthroughapieceofwetmuslinorasieveLeavetocoolthenstoreinthefridgeforuptoaweek
StrawberryandRoseLemonadePuddingwithSaffronandCiderBrandyCustard
ThisisamarvellouswayofusingupthelastjarofstrawberryjambeforethesummerglutWehavepolishedoffoneofthesepuddingsinunder5minutesbetweenthefourofusThebrandyandsaffrongivethecustardcomplexityandpunchandcomplementthestrawberryinawayyoumightnothaveexpected
SERVES6160mlRoseLemonade(seehereoruseFentimans)150gsaltedbutteratroomtemperaturecutintocubes235gcastersugar160gplainfloursifted85mlsouredcream1largeegg2tspvanillaextract1frac12tspbicarbonateofsoda100gstrawberryjamahandfulofpalerosepetalstogarnish
FORTHESAFFRONANDCIDERBRANDYCUSTARD
12saffronstamens25mlciderbrandy480mldoublecream1vanillapod6eggyolks160gcastersugar
PuttheroselemonadeandbutterinapanandwarmoverthelowestpossibleheatuntilthebutteralmostmeltsthenremovefromtheheatAddthesugarandstirinwellWhiskinthesiftedflourin2stagesuntilcompletelyincorporatedthensetasideInaseparatebowlwhisktogetherthesouredcreameggvanillaextractandbicarbonateofsodaAddthistotheroselemonadeandflourmixtureandwhisktoincorporateoncemore
lemonadeandflourmixtureandwhisktoincorporateoncemore
Greasea12litrepuddingbasinwithbutterPutthestrawberryjaminthebottomofthebasinandtopwiththecakemixTakeapieceoffoillargeenoughtocoverthebasinandmakeapleatinthecentrethiswillallowthepuddingtoexpandduringcookingPutthefoiloverthebasinandtucktheedgesundertherimPutthebasininasteamercoverwithalidandsteamfor2hourscheckingthewaterlevelevery30minutesorsoandtoppingupwhennecessary(Thepuddingcanalsobesteamedinapressurecookeroveratrivetwith25cmwaterinthebottomatfullpressureforanhourtogetittothetablequicker)ThecustardcanbepreparedasthepuddingcomestotheendofitssteamingAddthesaffrontotheciderbrandytoinfusetheirheadyscentstogetherSplitthevanillapodopenandscrapeouttheseedsPuttheseedsandpodinaheavy-basedsaucepanwiththecreamandsetoveralowheatuntilalmostboilingRemovefromtheheatandletitcoolalittleWhisktheeggyolksandsugartogetherinabowluntiltheyolksturnpalethenpourinthecreamthroughasievewhiskingtocombinePourthemixtureintoacleanpanandsetoveralowheatCookstirringconstantlyuntilthemixturethickensItisimportantnottoleavethepanaloneatthisstageaswanderingconcentrationwillleadtoascrambledeggcustardIfyouhaveadigitalthermometerthecustardwillstarttothickenat70degCandbeatitsthickestat85degCndashanyhigherthanthatanditwillscrambleWithorwithoutathermometermuchoftheskillliesinbeingabletoseethischangeKeepacloseeyeonthecustardasyoustirandwatchforthemomentwhenthereisacleartrailleftbehindthespoononthebaseofthepanChalkupanotherkitchenskillwhenyouseethatvelvetsaucecompleted
Passthecustardthroughafinesieveandstirintheciderbrandyandsaffron
TurnthepuddingoutofthebasinandservewiththecustardSaffronandstrawberryisalip-smackingcombinationandcanbebetteredonlybytheadditionofafewpalerosepetalsscatteredoverthepuddingonceitisserved
VERMOUTH
EssentiallyvermouthismadewithabasewinethathasbeensweetenedwithamixtureofgrapejuiceandalcoholVariousbotanicalsextractsarethenaddedbeforematurationfilteringandbottlingThereareanincrediblenumberofvermouthsonthemarketatleast40varietiesTwoofthebest-knownaretheFrenchNoillyPratwhichuses20ndash30botanicalsandtheItalianMartiniRossiwhichcontains30Alsquotearsquoismadebymaceratingthebotanicalsinahighproofspiritinslowlyrevolvingbarrelsfor10ndash15daysthenasetratioofeachisaddedtothebasewineThisiseversoslightlymoreprofessionalthanshakingajamjarWewereinspiredbytheflavoursofAnticaFormulaandPunteMesand
bythesubtletyofBonmewhichcomesfromthePiedmontregionofItalyItisthecomplexitiesofvermouththatreallycapturedourattentionItworksasanaperitifacocktailingredientadigestifandasaningredientincookingThisisduetothemedicinalnatureofthebotanicalingredientssomestimulatehungerwhileotherssettlethestomachWewantedtocreateourownhousevermouththatmatchedourtastesanexpressionofourrestaurantandourlocationJackhadtoengageagooddealofgreymattertogethisheadaroundthemathswhenitcametothebotanicalsWhatfollowedwasnothingshortofalengthyprocessoftrialanderrorWehadbottlesandbottlesofvermouthallslightlydifferentasweincreasedanddecreasedtheproportionsofeachbotanicalteaTheEthicureanwaspepperedwithjarsofourexperimentsSomeweresoastringentthattheyresultedinextremefacialcontortionsamongstthefriendswhotriedthemWehadagoodchatwithJekkaMcVicarwhohelpeduschoosethevarietiesofherbsbestsuitedtoourrecipesandtobeinggrownintheWalledGardenTherecipebelowisforsweetvermouthbutthisisbynomeansadefinitiverecipeThepleasurecomesfromtryingoutyourowncombinationsPleasefeelfreetoleaveoutbotanicalsoraddnewonesofyourownWehaveincludedtheoptionofloweringthesugarcontentforadrierofferingSetasideasmallareaofyourkitchenandstackupthosejarsofmacerating
botanicalsTrythemallindividuallynotingtheirflavoursandyouwillgraduallybegintobeabletobuildyourownvermouthbasedonyourchosenprofileTheremayevenbethepossibilityofsubstitutingsomewildbitteringagentsforsomeoftheexoticbitterbotanicalsHereisashortlistof
possibilitiesCHAMOMILEusedinlotsofvermouthsaddsagoodfloralflavour
GORSEFLOWERSalternativebitterflavourMARITIMEPINENEEDLESresinousflavourFENNELSEEDSusedinsomevermouths
EQUIPMENT
bullScalesthatmeasureto01ofagramarecrucialforweighingoutthesmallamountsofeachbotanicalteaTheyareagreatpieceofequipmentandquiteinexpensivebullAhydrometerisusefulforworkingoutthealcoholcontentofyourfinishedvermouthbull20sterilejamjarsforthebotanicalsbullApipetteforaddingeachbotanicalteaalthoughateaspoonwillsufficebullAsmallteastrainerwillhelptokeepoutanypiecesofthebotanicalswhenaddingtheteatothebasewine
TheEthicureanVermouthBotanicals
ANGELICASEEDS(Angelicaarchangelica)Similarinaromatojuniper
BAY(Laurusnobilis)MedicinalqualitiesAnti-inflammatoryantibacterial
BLACKPEPPER(Pipernigrum)Hotwoodandfloralflavours
CARDAMOM(Amomumcardamom)AromaticandresinousdigestiveUsedtotreatinfections
CINAMMON(Cinnamomumverum)LaurelfamilySweetaromaticspice
CLOVE(Syzygiumaromaticum)CentralandSouthernEuropeprincipalingredientinAngosturabittersgoodfordigestionContainsglycosidesoneofthemostbitternaturalcompoundsknownandeugenolwhichhasantisepticandanaestheticqualities
CORIANDER(Coriandrumsativum)LemonandcitrusflavourWarmnuttyspicyorange
GENTIANROOT(Gentianalutea)VerybitterusedinAngostorabitters
JUNIPER(Juniperuscommunis)Pineyandresinous
MARJORAM(Origanummajorana)Balsamicandaromaticflavour
NUTMEG(Myristicafragrans)PreservinganddelicateagentORANGEPEELAromaticsweetonthenoseandforusakeyelementofourvermouth
ORRIS(Irisgermanica)EnhancesotheraromasandperfumesViolet-likesmelltasteslikeraspberry
QUASSIABARK(Quassiaamara)Quassinisthebitterestsubstanceinnature
ROSEMARY(Rosmarinusofficinalis)Aromaticwarmandslightlybitter
SAGE(Salviaofficinalis)containsthujoneaslightlyantiseptic-tastingcompoundSavouryflavour
STARANISE(Illiciumverum)AgreatflavourenhancerRichspice
VANILLA(Vanillaplanifolia)Addsaflavourofagedoakwhichisfoundinmaturevermouths
WORMWOOD(Artemisiaabsinthium)VerybittermedicinalpropertiesKeyingredientforanauthenticvermouth
YARROW(Achilleamillefolium)VerybitterOftencalledarrowrootintheUKitisregardedasahealingherb
Vermouth
QUANTITIESFOREACHBOTANICALTEA
Angelicaseeds15gBayleaves15gBlackpeppercorns10g
Blackpeppercorns10gCardamom1gCinammon83gClove05gCoriander15gGentianroot2gJuniper15gMarjoram5gNutmeg5gOrangepeel146gOrris6gQuassiabark4gRosemary5gSage15gStaranise5gVanilla5gWormwood4gYarrow2g
YourvermouthcanbestoredinasterilisedbottlewithagoodsealvacuumpumpingitisaverysensibleideaStoreinthefridgeanddrinkwithinacoupleofmonthswearesurethatitwillbegoneinaweek
ThebotanicalslistedherecanallbepurchasedonlineorfromChineseherbalistsWeuseacrispdryEnglishwhitewinefromSomersetasourbasewinealthoughinthepastwehaveusedaColombardandGrosMansengblendTryoutafewwhitewinesandseewhichoneyouprefer
WemakeourowncaramelandaddittothewineHoweverreducingtheamountofcaramelcanmakeverygooddryvermouthSweetvermouthtypicallycontains10ndash15percentsugarwhileadryonewillcontainnomorethan5percentItiscrucialtoraisethealcoholbyvolumeofthewine(thisisachievedbyaddingthebotanicalteas)asat13ndash15percentalcoholtheyeastwillstopconvertinggrapesugarsThisisimportantasyoudonotwantabottlethatwillcontinuetofermentAMuscatwinemakesanexcellentsweetvermouth
Thebasicproportionsforthisrecipeare500mlwine150mlintotalofthebotanicalteas200gcaramelThisyieldsjustunder700mlvermouth
TakeasmalljamjarandfillitaroundathirdfullwithyourbotanicalTopuptotwicetheheightthatthebotanicalreacheswithahighproofvodkaScrewonthelidandleavetomacerateatroomtemperaturefor2weeks
WhenmakingthecaramelforthevermouthfollowtheinstructionsforthesaltcaramelonhereomittingthesaltWerecommendtakingthecarameltoadarkambercolourforextradepthandcomplexityHeatingittosomewherebetween185and188degCwilldothetrickThiscanbepouredontoasiliconematandallowedtocoolintoasolidcaramelItcanbestoredinthesamewayasthesaltcarameluntilneeded
Whencombiningthecaramelwiththewineaddaquarterofthewine(oraslittleasneededtodissolvethecaramel)toapanandplaceonalowheatAddthecaramelshardsandstiruntilcompletelydissolvedAllowthemixturetocooltoroomtemperaturebeforecombiningwiththeremainingwineAddthebotanicalsintheproportionsgivenabovePleasetasteasyouaddthemasthiswillgiveyouasenseofwhateachingredientaddstoyourvermouth
HOWTOOAKYOURVERMOUTH
IfyouwouldliketotryoakingyourvermouthyouwillneedalargesterilisedjarwithawideneckPlaceahandfulofcleanoakchipsinthecentreofapieceofsterilisedmuslinandtiewitha
pieceofstringDropthebagofoakchipsintothejarandtopupwiththevermouthTryleavingforaweekandtasteregularlySomeofthebestvermouthsarematuredinoakthisisagreat
wayofsimulatingthatmaturationprocess
AtipforsterilisingtheoakchipswithoutremovingtoomuchoftheirflavourandtanninsistosteamthemPlaceinapanwithadropofwaterandalidturnuptoamediumheatandthechips
willsteam
RoseLemonade
WehavelovedFentimansrsquobotanicallybreweddrinksforyearsRecentlywehadadabbleatcookingwithsomeofthemandthewinnerwasroselemonadeWedecidedtoworkoutarecipeforourownversionInordertobrewitproperlywefirsthadtotrackdownagingerbeerplant(GBP)whichisessentiallyayeastcalledSaccharomycesflorentinusandabacteriumcalledBrevibacteriumvermiformeThesetwounlikelyfriendsformagelatinoussubstanceandasymbioticrelationshipwithinwhichtheyeastexcretes
alcoholandthebacteriumconsumesitYeasthasalowtoleranceofalcoholwhichofcourseremainslowduetothebacteriumGBPisbetterformakingdrinksthanordinaryyeastbecauseyouendupwithmuchbetterflavourslowalcoholandlittlechanceofdangerousexplosionsWeeventuallyfoundasupplieronlineandreceivedalittleenvelope
containingapacketofwhitejelly-likesubstanceyeastysweetandalcoholicWaitinglistspaymentsrefundsandrepaymentsfollowedAlittleresearchtoldusthataverycleverchapbythenameofHarryMarshallWarddiscoveredGBPrsquostalentforbrewingin1892WeusedJapaneserosepetalsRosarugosaastheyreallydoofferthefinest
flavourIfyoucanrsquotgettheseyoucouldtrydriedrosepetalsPleaseavoidrosesthathavebeensprayedwithchemicalsThegeneralruleisthatthepalervarietieshaveabetterflavour
MAKES2LITRES250gcastersugarjuiceandzestof1lemon25cmpieceoffreshgingerroughlychoppedahandfulofrosepetals1tbspGBP
ItisreallyimportanttosterilisealltheequipmentyouuseincludingthemuslinandstringYoucandothisbypouringboilingwaterovereverythingandthenleavingittodryPutthesugarandlemonzestinapanwith250mlwaterBringtoalightsimmerstirringtodissolvethesugarthenremovefromtheheatandleavetocool
Pour175litreswaterintoalargecontainer(alargeliddedplasticboxisfine)andaddthelemonjuicethiswillneutralisethechlorinegenerallypresentintapwaterwhichwouldotherwiseaffecttheyeastrsquosproductivityStraininthesugarandwatermixturePutthegingerinapieceofmuslintiewithstringanddropitinAddtheGBPthencoverandleaveatroomtemperaturefor5daysBesuretoopenthelidbrieflyeverydayinordertoletoutanycarbondioxidethathasbuiltupotherwiseitwillopenofitsownaccord
Strainthemixturethroughafinesieveintoasterilised2litreplasticbottle
Strainthemixturethroughafinesieveintoasterilised2litreplasticbottleandputonthetopSavetheGBPandgiveitarinseitwillhavegrown(Ifyoustoreitinthefridgeinasmallsterilecontaineritwillkeepforupto2weeks)After2daystheroselemonadewillbereadytodrinkalthoughifyoudesireafizzierbrewleaveitforlongerRefrigerationwillhaltanyfurtherfermentation
TheEthicureanCocktail
ThiscocktailhasquicklybecomeaclassicatTheEthicureanadelightfulbalanceofsweetsharpandsavouryAsthedayslengthenitmakesaperfectpre-dinnerdrinkinthegardenThymehasantisepticqualitiesasdohoneyandlemonmakingthisanexcellentpick-me-upwithorwithoutthevodkaInvestinginaninexpensiveBostoncocktailshakerisaverygoodideaIt
allowsyoutobuildandshakedrinkscontainingjuiceaeratingthemchillingthemquicklyandformingapleasingfrothMostbartenderswouldadvisethatshakingshouldbeusedonlywhendrinkscontainsomejuiceYouwillsignificantlylowerthetemperaturebyshakingbutexpectasmalllevelofdilutionfromtheiceIfalltheingredientsareclearstirringisthebetteroptionpreservingtheclarityofthedrink
SERVES1icecubesfrac14lemon2sprigsofthymeplus1toserve1tsphoney25mlChaseEnglishPotatovodka100mlapplejuice
Fillyourglasstotherimwithice
SqueezethewedgeoflemonintotheglasspartofaBostonshakerthendropinthesqueezedlemonwedgetogetherwiththethymeMashtogetherwithawoodenpestleAddthehoneypouringinjustalittlewarmwatertodissolveMeasureoutthevodkatherersquosnoharminadoubleifthewindtakesyouandpouritontotheotheringredientsAddtheapplejuiceandtopuptojustbelowtherimwithiceTapthetinontopoftheglassandshaketillwatercondensesontheoutsideoftheshakerSeparatebyusingtheheelofyourhandtoknockwheretheglassandtinaretouchingPourthoselastfewpreciousdropsintothetinthenplaceaHawthornestraineroverthetinandpourthemixtureintoyourchilledglassTopupwithiceandasmallsprigofthymethenaddmorejuicetotaste
HONEYANDTHYMESYRUP
WeliketomakeahalfandhalfsyruptouseinthecocktailaboveIfyouaremakingafewcocktailsitrsquosagoodwayofsavingtime
1tsphoneypercocktail1sprigofthymeforeverydrinkyouwouldlike
Placethehoneyandthymeinapanandadd1teaspoonofwaterforeveryteaspoonofhoneyBringgentlytoasimmerthenremovefromtheheatandleavetocoolStrainintoasterilisedcontainerandstoreinthefridgeitwillkeepfor2weeks
Negroni
TheNegroniisanenduringclassicThepreserveofbartendersandrestaurateursithasasatisfyingbitternessthatiswelcomeafteralongshiftWefindourselvessettledinbythesecondThiscocktailismorethanthesumofitspartsanditssuccessrestsonitsbalancedsimplicityWeuseourownVermouth(seehere)butAnticaFormulaandPunteMesmakesuperbonesWehavealsoservedthisdrinkwithasageleafasagarnishasitfindsa
harmoniousplaceamongstthearomaticsintheginandvermouth
SERVES11orange25mlgin25mlvermouth(seehere)25mlCampari
ChillatumblerwithicetoppedupwithwaterTakeafinesliceofzestfromtheorangeavoidingthebitterpithFillalargeglassonethirdfullwithiceandpourovertheginvermouthandCampariStiruntiltheoutsideoftheglasscondensesthenstrainintothechilledtumblerandsqueezealittleofthepreciousflavourfromtheorangezestBrushtherimofthetumblerwiththeorangezestthenpinchandsqueezeitovertheglasstoreleasetheessentialoilsTopupwithicetobelowtherim(aboveismostuncouth)thenslotinasliceoforange
Foratwisttrystirringacoupleoflovageleavesintothecontentsofthemixingglass
VERMOUTH
Althoughtheearliestreferencestoanaromatisedwinecropuparound1250BCinChinaandIndiaittookawhiletocatchoninEnglandPurlwasaseventeenth-centurybitteraleinfused
withwormwoodandafewotherbotanicalsmainlyusedtosettlethestomachBy1690lsquoStoughtonrsquosGreatCordialElixirrsquoaninfusionof22botanicalshadbecomeapopularcurefor
hangoversandgastricailmentslsquoDrankbymostgentlemenhelliptorecoverandrestoreaweakenrsquodstomachorlostappetitehellipoccasionedbyharddrinkingorsicknessrsquo(Imbibehere)
VermouthasweknowittodaybeganlifeintheregionaroundTurinItalyintheeighteenthcenturyRelativelysweetwithafull-bodiedherbaceousflavourthisdark-reddrinkwasfollowed
bydrierstraw-colouredstylesfromFranceinparticularChambeacuteryintheSavoieregion
RecipeList
FigsWrappedinPorkBellywithLavenderandBuffaloMozzarellaCaramelisedChicoryLabnehandMaceratedStrawberrySalad
RoastedTomatoandLiquoriceBasilSoupRoastedCourgetteandCobnutSoupwithLabnehandGinger
TurmericandMintDressingSousedMackerelCarrotFennelandSaffronwithGooseberryand
MintGranitaChilledBeetrootSoupPar-celWalnutIceCreamandRoasted
CobnutOilEwersquos-curd-stuffedCourgetteFlowerswithFennelSherbet
GlobeArtichokeswithHollandaiseSauceandSumacPeaGoatBaconandLovageBroth
ScallopsinPuffPastrywithVermouthandFennelCreamPickledPollackwithFlame-roastedPeppersCucumberPulBiber
ChilliandWaterMintDorsetBlueVinnyandFlame-roastedPepperswithCharredLittle
GemJohnDorywithMorelMushroomsFlatBeansHaricotBeansand
HamHockStockMusselsinCiderwithTarragon
SteamedMegrimSolewithRockSamphireandSumac-braisedFennel
PickledrocksamphireWaterBuffaloFilletwithClearChickenStockTarragonandSalt-
bakedBabyBeets
BarbecuedHorseMackerelwithCobnutSalbitxadaSauceFennelandSumacGravadTrout
WhiteRaspberryLoganberryandEwersquosYoghurtTerrinewithSweetCicelyConfit
ElderflowerSorbetwithFennelSherbetandWildStrawberriesPineappleWeedJelly
ElderflowerandLavenderMarshmallowsSpicedGingerBeer
SummerElderRawRhubarbSmash
DoubleSloeGinandTonic
SUMMERARRIVESWHENTHEcentralwalkwaythroughtheyewhedgeshasprogressedfromacarpettoagraduatingwallofcolourThisisMaddytheflowergardenerrsquosfavouritetimeastheperennialstaketheirplaceonthestageTherearenepetaachilleasalviaandgeraniums
OnMidsummerrsquosEvebonfirescanbeseenontheMendipsatduskastheoldpaganceremonyofstrengtheningthesuntakesplaceInthetrackthroughtheorchardthelavenderisbeginningtoflowersomeofitdestinedformarshmallowsservedtoastedtoorderintheglasshouseMarkcarriesupboxesofstrawberriesstillcoveredinstrawtheoddwoodlouseScramblingtosafetyThewildstrawberriesbarelyamouthfularepickedaswegathermintandthenewbright-greenlovageleaves
MatthewandPaucircladisappearforadaytotheirsamphirespotinSouthWalesTheyreturnwitharmfulsofthissaltyvegetablenotawhisperofthenameofthebeachTheropehanginginthedippingpondisaladderforthefirstdragonfliesoftheyeartakingwingThepondonceusedforwateringcansisteemingwithlife
MarkhassownsaladleavesthatresistboltingintheheatAnhourafterhepicksthemtheysitlayeredonplateswithpickledpollockandredpeppersWeroastthedeep-redpeppersandpurpleauberginesoveranopenflameuntiltheychangefromrichredandpurpletoashblackThesmellisperfectTheycoolbeforetheskinispeeled
Theelderhedgeprovidesuswiththefirststar-headedelderflowerswiththeirtranquilscentNextcometheberriesandsomewillbepickedunripetobepickledwithpepperandSaltndashwethinkofthemasSomersetcapers
IndescendingordertiedtofencepostsareraspberriesblackberriesloganberriesandwhiteraspberriesThesefruitsmaketheirwayintomyriadrecipessetcreamssorbetsjamsandvinegarsThewhiteraspberriesaremuddledincocktailsprovidinganaciditythatmakeslemonredundantAswefillcontainerswearecarefulnottopickahoneybeeIvorthebeekeeperarrivesandopensthehiveThequeenrsquoswingsareclippedsheismarkedandthenreturnedTheespaliersaredroopingundertheweightoffruitThereareapricotsgreengagesandVictoriaplumsOnthestovesitsanever-bubblingpanoffruitndashgreengageandvanillaperhapsorblackberrywith
bubblingpanoffruitndashgreengageandvanillaperhapsorblackberrywithbourbonwhiskey
TheartichokesplumpandgreenwithsharpscalesaresnippedoffaboveanysecondarybudsThekitchenmakesahollandaiseandtheglobesarecookedandplacedinabowlservedwiththisbutterysauceWithin20minutestherimissurroundedbystrippedpetalsandfingersreachfortheheart
MaddyrsquosflowersarejoinedbythebloomsofcampanulaechinaceaandpotentillaTheborderoutsidetheglasshouseisamovingriotofbutterfliesandhoneybeeswhiletheoddoneisskilfullyfreedfromthediningroom
BythistimethefoxgloveshavebeguntotumbleovertopheavywithblueflowersMeanwhilethefirstapplesarestartingtocropWorcesterPearmainBeautyofBathandCheddarGoldarecollectedintrugsandbasketsThedaysareshorteningandthecropsarepreservedpickledandstored
FigsWrappedinPorkBellywithLavenderandBuffaloMozzarella
CompromiseisdifficultwhenyouareabigfanoffigsTheyarewonderfulwhentheyareripebutnotreallyworthtastingatanyotherstageUnripefigshavegottobeoneofthemostdisappointingfoodsthereisTheproblemisthattheyaresodifficulttotransportthateitheryouhavetogrowthemyourselforbeclosetoagoodsourceContrarytopopularbelieffigtreesdogrowwellintheUKGrantedtheyarenomatchinsizeforsomeEuropeanvarietiesbuttheirfreshnessmakesupforwhatmightinitiallybeperceivedasadeficiencyThefigtreeattheWalledGardenneverceasestosurpriseusasitseemsto
beoblivioustothevolatilityoftheBritishweatherItlivesinablissfulstateofconstantexpansionextendingitsleafybrancheswithoutshameclaimingthefrontbrickarchwayasitsrightfulareaensuringthatallvisitorspassing
thefrontbrickarchwayasitsrightfulareaensuringthatallvisitorspassingthroughthetopgatearewelcomedbyitsgenerouspresenceAssummerprogressesopeningtheheavywoodengatewithoutdamagingthetreersquosbranchesbecomesmoreandmorechallengingItisalmostasifitistryingtoremindusofitshealthygrowtheverymorningThereisnoneedforsuchattention-seekingbehaviourItisoneofthemostwatchedtreesinourgardenThefigsaresoprecioustousthatwecannotriskanyofthembeingwastedFigshaveanaturalaffinitywithsaltyingredientsandarecommonly
servedwithprosciuttoHoweverwefindthatinthisdishthecrunchofthefigseedsisgreatlyenhancedbythecrispinessofthecuredporkbellyHoneyandfigsisanothercombinationthatworksremarkablywellWe
trieditwithlavenderhoneyandfoundthatitwasevenbetterItmadesensethentousestalksoflavendertoattachtheporkbellytothefigThecreaminessofthebuffalomozzarellaservestobalancethesweetnessof
thehoneyandfigswiththesaltinessoftheporkbellyTohaveaccesstoBritish-madebuffalomilkmozzarellafromLaverstokeParkFarmisassatisfyingashavingaBritish-madechorizosausage(seehere)Eachhassomanyapplicationsinthekitchenthatanychefseekingtousesolelylocalingredientshasmuchcausetocelebrate
SERVES48ripefigs1buffalomilkmozzarellaslicedinto8pieces16slicesofcuredporkbellysuchaspancetta16lavenderspearsfromlavenderinflower4tsplavenderhoney
Heattheovento200degCGasMark6WashanddrythefigstakingcarenottodamagetheskinCutacross2ndash3cmdeepthroughthestemofeachandopenthefiguplikeaflowerStuffasliceofmozzarellaintoeachfigthenwrap2slicesofcuredporkbellyroundtheoutsideSpikeeachfigwith2lavenderflowerspearstoholdtheporkinplaceduringbaking
Putthefigsinabakingdishdrizzlefrac12teaspoonoflavenderhoneyovereachoneandcookfor10ndash12minutesuntiltheporkbellyiscrispandthefigslightlycaramelisedCoolslightlybeforeserving
lightlycaramelisedCoolslightlybeforeserving
CaramelisedChicoryLabnehandMaceratedStrawberrySalad
ThearrivalofsummerattheWalledGardenoftentakesusbysurpriseThefirstsignisthequietmurmurofinsectsfromvariouscornersofthegardenthentheburstofcolourintheherbaceousbordersalongsidethecentralbrickpathAstheinsectsnoisilygatheraroundtheseflowerswerealisethatsummerhastiptoedinTherefollowschild-likeexcitementfromkitchenfolkandfront-of-housestaffalikeThearrivalofsummermeansmoreingredientstoexperimentwithandmoreexcusesforforaysaroundthegardenThissaladshowcasesallthatisgreatabouttheseasonStrawberriesare
particularlyimportanttotheSomersetareaNotfarfromusyouwillfindthefamousStrawberryLineanoldrailwaylinenowacyclepathwhichrunsthroughneighbouringvillagesBuiltintheVictorianeraittookitsnamefromthefamousCheddarstrawberriesthatusedtobecarriedalongthelinetoLondonInthisrecipeweusechicoryasacontrasttothetangysweetnessofthemaceratedstrawberries
SERVES4500gewersquosmilkyoghurtfrac12tspsalt120gmedium-sizedstrawberrieshulledandslicedverticallyinto3about200mlcidervinegar300gcastersugar6largeheadsofchicorycutintoquartersthroughtherooticingsugarfordustingalittlegroundcinnamonalittlecobnutoil(orhazelnutoil)afewborageflowers(optional)blackpepper
PreparethelabnehandstrawberriesadayinadvanceLineasievewithapieceofmuslinoraclothallowingtheendstooverhangthesievePuttheyoghurtinandmixinthesaltCovertheyoghurtwiththeendsofthe
yoghurtinandmixinthesaltCovertheyoghurtwiththeendsofthemuslinandthenplacethesieveoverabowlLeaveinthefridgeovernightThefollowingdayliquidwillhavecollectedinthebowlandtheyoghurtwillbethickerandcreamierDiscardtheliquidandspoontheyoghurtintoanairtightcontainerKeepinthefridgeuntilneeded
PuttheslicedstrawberriesinaplasticboxandpourinenoughcidervinegarjusttocoverthemCoverandleaveinthefridgeovernightThenextdaystrainoffthevinegarintoabowlAddthecastersugartoitandstirthoroughlyuntildissolvedPourthevinegaroverthestrawberriesandrefrigerateuntilneeded
Placeagriddlepanoveramedium-highheatuntilhotLightlydustthechicorywithicingsugarandthenplaceflat-sidedownonthegriddleCookwithoutmovingituntilitbeginstocarameliseunderneathandcharredlinesdevelopTurnthepiecesontotheirotherflatsideandrepeatthenflipthemontotheirroundedsideandcookuntiltenderRemovethechicoryfromthegriddlepanandsetasidetocoolalittle
Dividethechicorybetween4platesspreadingoutsomeoftheleavesDotthestrawberriesthroughoutthenaddseveralteaspoonsofthelabnehSprinklecinnamonoverthelabnehDresswithcobnutoilsomeofthemaceratingliquidfromthestrawberriesandborageflowersifyouhaveanyCoarselygrindsomeblackpepperoverthestrawberriesandserveimmediately
RoastedTomatoandLiquoriceBasilSoup
RoastingorcaramelisingvegetablescantransformanaveragesoupintosomethingtrulyspectacularPairitwithalittletexturalcontrastandburstsofflavouraswedoherewithbasilcroutonsandgoldentomatoandapplebalsamicjelliesandyouaregoingfarbeyondwhatmostpeoplehavecometoexpectwhentheyhearthewordsoupTheflavoursyoucanachievebyroastingtomatoesaregloriousIndeedit
ishardtothinkofaculinaryworldwithouttomatoesAsPaucirclaourresidentMexicanwillproudlytellyoutheyarenativetoMexicoTheSpaniardsbroughtthembacktosouthernEuropeforcultivationonamajorscaleDryingoutsomeofthemoisturefromthetomatoesintensifiestheirflavourandthebrowningfromtheroastingprocessaddsanewcomplexitytooneofourfavouriteingredientsTomatoesareagreatsourceofumami(seehere)WhentheyarecombinedwithmushroomstockinthisrecipeweachievesavouryheavenAddtothatawarminfusionofherbsandpiecesofthetomatovinewhichcontainsincrediblyfresharomatictomatoflavoursandweguaranteethatthisisasouptorivalanyyouhavehadbeforeWeuseastrainofliquoricebasilinthisrecipeastheanisenotesmakea
superbaccompanimenttotomatoMarkthegardenerspoilsuswithuniqueheritageorheirloomstrainsofplantsandherbseachwitharicherflavourthanthecommonhybridisedstrainsHegrowscinnamonbasilalongsidetomatoestoattractpestsawayfromtheredfruitplantsSeekoutaheritageorheirloomseedcompanyifyouareinterestedingrowingherbsastheywilldelightfromaculinaryaspectbutwillalsoprovideseedforthefollowingyearsGenovesebasilmammothbasilandMrsBurnslemonbasilareheirloomvarietieswellworthsearchingfor
SERVES4
SERVES41kgvine-ripenedtomatoesvinesreserved2garlicclovespeeled2bayleaves10sprigsofthyme20gbasilleaves(seehere)
rapeseedoilfrac14tspsmokedpaprika100mlmushroomstock(seehere)100mlwhitechickenstock(seehere)2dashesofWorcestershiresaucecidervinegar1tbsptomatopureacuteeseasalt
FORTHEGOLDENTOMATOJELLY(OPTIONALBUTRECOMMENDED)500ggoldentomatoesfrac14tspagaragarpowder
FORTHEAPPLEBALSAMICJELLY(OPTIONALBUTRECOMMENDED)200mlapplebalsamicvinegar(suchasAspallrsquos)frac12tspagaragarpowder
FORTHEBASILCROUTONS(OPTIONALBUTRECOMMENDED)
1thicksliceofsourdoughbreadcutinto1ndash2cmcubesrapeseedoiltocoat1ndash2tspicingsugar10gbasilleavesflakyseasalt
StartbypeelingthetomatoesTheeasiestwaytodothisistocutawidecrossatthebaseofeachtomatoscoringonlythroughtheskinHaveabowloficedwateratthereadyPutthescoredtomatoesinabowlpourboilingwateroverthemandleavefornomorethan30secondstheskinsshouldsplitwhereyoumadetheincisionRemovefromthewaterandplungestraightintotheicedwaterLeaveuntilcoldthenpeelofftheskins
Heattheovento180degCGasMark4Slicethetomatoesintoquartersandputtheminaroastingtraycut-sideupAddthegarlicclovesbayleaveshalfthethymesprigsandhalfthebasilleavesDrizzlewithenoughrapeseedoiltocoattheingredientslightlyandaddageneroussprinklingofseasaltPlaceintheovenandroastfor20ndash30minutesuntiltheedgesofthe
Placeintheovenandroastfor20ndash30minutesuntiltheedgesofthetomatoesbegintoblackenTakeoutoftheovenandleavetocoolRemovethebayleavesthymeandbasilanddiscard
Transferthetomatoesgarlicandtomatopureacuteetoablenderwiththesmokedpaprikaandblitzonfullspeedfor1minuteAddthemushroomstockandchickenstockandblitzforabout2minutesPassthroughafinesieveintoasaucepanaddtheWorcestershiresauceandbringtoasimmerImmediatelyremovefromtheheatandaddthereservedtomatovinesplustheremainingbasilandthymeLeavetoinfuseinawarmplacefor15minutesStrainthroughafinesieveoncemoreseasonwithsalttotasteandadashofcidervinegarforalittlewelcomeacidityIfyouleftthesouptoinfusesomewherewarmenoughitshouldstillbeagoodtemperaturetoeatIfyoupreferitalittlewarmerthenreheatquicklyandserveimmediatelyndashwithalloranyoftheoptionalgarnishesifyoulike
Ifmakingthejelliesitisusefultoknowthatagaragarwillremainstableuptoroughly80degCWeusuallyserveoursoupsaround75degC
Forthegoldentomatojellyblitzthetomatoestoapureacuteeinafoodprocessorfor2minutesPlaceinafinesievesetoverabowlandleavetodrainuntilyouhave200mlliquidPressgentlywiththebackofaladleifthetomatoesneedalittlecoaxingTasteandseasonwithsalttotastePuttheliquidinasaucepanandslowlyaddtheagaragarstirringconstantlyBringtotheboiloverahighheattohydratetheagaragarImmediatelyremovefromtheheatandpourintoasquareorrectangularTupperwarecontainerthatallowstheliquidtobe1cmdeepLeavetocooltheliquidwillsetTurnoutontoaboardandcutinto1cmcubesStorecoveredinthefridgeuntilneeded
FortheapplebalsamicjellyputthevinegarinasaucepanandslowlyaddtheagaragarstirringconstantlyBringtotheboiloverahighheatthenimmediatelyremovefromtheheatandpourintoasquareorrectangularTupperwarecontainerthatallowstheliquidtobe1cmdeepAllowtocoolandsetthencutinto1cmcubesasforthetomatojellyStoreinthefridgeDropthejellycubesintothehotsoupimmediatelybeforeserving
IfyouwanttoservethesoupwiththecroutonstossthecubesofbreadinalittlerapeseedoilandflakyseasaltuntillightlycoatedthensiftafineevenlayeroficingsugaroverthemPutthebreadinaroastingtraywiththebasil
layeroficingsugaroverthemPutthebreadinaroastingtraywiththebasilandplaceinanovenpreheatedto180degCGasMark4Cookfor5ndash10minutesuntilgoldenbrowntossinghalfwaythroughtoensureevenbrowningScatterthecroutonsoverthesouptoserve
WARMINFUSIONS
TheflavourofmostgreenherbsdullsafterevenashortperiodofcookingInfusingliquidsstocksandevensoupswithherbsatthelastminuteensuresthatthegreennotesofeachherbremainasfreshandpungentaswhentheywerepickedThemostcommonwaytoprepareawarminfusionistobringabout500mlliquidtotheboilremovefromtheheatimmediatelyandaddahandfulofherbsLeavetoinfusefor15ndash20minutesthenstrainthroughaveryfinesievetasteanduseimmediatelyWerecommendexperimentingwiththismethodOccasionallyyouwillneedmoreherbsthanyoumightexpecttogetthedesiredresult
moreherbsthanyoumightexpecttogetthedesiredresult
RoastedCourgetteandCobnutSoupwithLabnehandGingerTurmericandMintDressing
CourgettesarearelativelyrecentadditiontoBritishcookingbecomingwidelyknownonlyinthemidtwentiethcenturyasaresultofElizabethDavidrsquoswritingAdmittedlytheyarenotthemostfascinatingofvegetablesbutlabellingthemastastelessorwateryisunfairinourviewWhilsttheydohaveahighwatercontent(theyareafterallrelatedtowatermelonsandcucumbers)wewouldurgeanyonewhothinkstheyaretastelesstotrygrowingtheirownWhentheyaresmallandfreshtheyhaveasubtlenuttinessunlikeanyothermemberoftheCucurbitafamilytowhichtheybelongTheadditionoftoastedcobnutsinthisdishemphasisesthenuttinessinherentinourfreshproducemagnificentlyThereisanimpressiverowofcobnuttreesinthelowercornerofthe
WalledGardenResemblingagroupofwiselycontentelderstheseprosperousleafytreesareknownforbeingeasytokeepThisisprobablywhytheyarelovedbyallatBarleyWoodparticularlysquirrelsandchefs
SERVES81kgsmallfirmcourgettesslicedinto2cmpiecesrapeseedoil500gonionsfinelysliced250gcarrotsfinelysliced250gceleryfinelysliced1tbspsaltplusmoreforthefinalseasoning40gfreshcobnutsfinelychoppedthenlightlytoastedinadryfryingpan
FORTHELABNEH
500gyoghurtfrac12tspsalt1tbspfinelychoppedmarjoram1tbspfinelychoppedoregano
FORTHEGINGERTURMERICANDMINTDRESSING
85mlrapeseedoil
85mlrapeseedoil50mlcidervinegar1tspEnglishmustardfrac12tspgroundgingerfrac14tspgroundturmeric1tspchoppedmint
ThelabnehmustbemadeadayinadvanceLineasievewithapieceofmuslinandputtheyoghurtinitStirinthesaltcoverwiththeoverhangingendsofthemuslinandthensetoverabowlndashitshouldbedeepenoughtoallowtheliquidtodrainofftheyoghurtLeaveinthefridgeovernightThefollowingdaydiscardtheliquidunwrapthelabnehandputitinabowlStirintheherbsKeepinthefridgeuntilneeded
Tomakethedressingblendalltheingredientstogetheruntilwellcombinedthenseasonwithsalttotaste
Heattheovento200degCGasMark6TossthecourgetteswithalittlerapeseedoiluntillightlycoatedthenspreadthemoutinaroastingtrayPlaceintheovenandroastfor20minutesMeanwhileheatathinfilmofrapeseedoilinalargesaucepanaddtheonionscarrotsandceleryandsweatfor10ndash15minutesuntiltenderStirregularlyanddonotallowthevegetablestocolourAddtheroastedcourgettesandsweatfor5minuteslongerAddenoughwaterbarelytocoverthevegetablesandbringtoagentlesimmerAddthesaltandcookfor5minutesthendecantintoablenderinbatchesifnecessaryBlitzuntilsmooththenaddenoughwatertotakeittoyourdesiredconsistencywelikeitonthethinsideBlitzoncemorethenpassthroughafinesieveforavelvetymouthfeelSeasonwithsalttotaste(TheSoupcanbekeptinthefridgeforupto5daysatthispoint)ReheatgentlythenpourthesoupintoservingbowlsandfinisheachonewithatablespoonoflabnehasprinklingofchoppedcobnutsandadrizzleofthedressingServewithseededbreadandsaltedbutter
daggerCobnutsareoneofthemostwonderfulhistoricallyrichnativenutswehaveyetsurprisinglytheyaregreatlyunderusedinBritishcookingAvarietyofhazelnutthecobnuthasbeenpresentinourgardensandorchardssinceatleastthesixteenthcenturyHistoricallycobnutshavebeeninstrumentalinhedgerow-growingformingadenseboundaryto
keepdomesticlivestockcontainedTheykeepfreshformonthsandwerethusavaluablesourceofproteinforthoseatseaThemostcommonvarietytheKentishcobwasintroducedaround1830ItwasgrownsosuccessfullyinKentthatcultivationincreaseddramaticallyintheHomeCountiesfromwherecobnutscouldbequicklytransportedtoLondonDuringtheFirstWorldWarlabourintheUKbecamemoreexpensiveandthenativeplantscouldnotcompetewithimportedfruitandnutsThisledtothedemiseofplantsinKentculminatinginnear-extinctionbytheearly1990s
SousedMackerelCarrotFennelandSaffronwithGooseberryandMintGranita
MackerelareoneofthemoststunningfishinBritishwatersTheirstripygreenish-bluebackaffordsthemexcellentcamouflagefromabovewhiletheirsilverbellygivesanimpressivealmostethereallookastheyswimatgreatspeedinpurposefulshoalsThebesttimetoeatmackerelisinthesummerItisthenthattheygather
closetoshoreinsearchoffryallowingthemtobeeasilyline-caughtamoresustainablefishingmethodthannetsortrawlingItisalsowhentheystarttoputontheweightthatwillallowthemtoliveindeepwatersduringwinterTheadditionalweightisrichinomega-3fattyacidsandconsequentlytheyareOneofthehealthiestfishyouwillhavethepleasureofeatingWhenpurchasinglookoutforfirmshinyfleshandbrighteyesassignsoffreshnessSousingorpicklingmackerelisagreatwayofpreservingit
freshnessSousingorpicklingmackerelisagreatwayofpreservingitMackerelrsquospairingwithgooseberryisaclassiccombinationthathas
survivedthetestoftimeThenaturalpartnershipbetweenthesetwoingredientshasnotgoneunnoticedbytheFrenchwhonamedthegooseberrygroseilleagravemaquereauormackerelberrySadlygooseberriesarenotgrownintheWalledGardensowegetthemfromourfriendsattheCommunityFarmacoupleofmilesdowntheroadForaberrythatisregardedbysomeasaquintessentialBritishfruit
gooseberriesareprettyelusiveevenwheninseasoninJuneandJulyThefactthattheyhaveoftenbeencriticisedforbeingtootartmighthaveledtotheirdemise
SERVES4ndash61times350ndash500gmackerelfilleted8ndash12saffronstrands
FORTHECURE
100gfineseasalt100gcastersugar1tbspcorianderseeds
FORTHESOUSINGLIQUOR
250mlvintagecidervinegarsuchasOstlerrsquos100gcastersugar1staranisefrac14tspcorianderseedsfrac14tspblackpepper3saffronstrands1shallotveryfinelydiced2carrotsslicedintowafer-thinlongstripspreferablyonamandolinefrac12fennelbulbslicedwaferthinpreferablyonamandoline
FORTHEGOOSEBERRYANDMINTGRANITA
500ggooseberriestoppedandtailed100gcastersugar
10gmintleaves
ThisdishneedstobestartedatleastadayinadvanceRemovethebonesfromtheribcageofthemackerelfilletsusingapairofpliersortweezersNextlocatethebonesthatrundownthecentreofeachfilletWithanextremelysharpknifesliceatanangledownonesideofthebonesthendowntheothersideYouwillnowbeabletoremoveanddiscardthethinstripcontainingthebones
BlitzthecureingredientsinafoodprocessoruntilthecorianderseedsareasfineasthesaltandsugarSpreadthecuremixoutonaplatelargeenoughtoholdthemackerelfilletsPlacethemackerelonthecureskin-sideupcoverwithclingfilmandleaveinthefridgefor2hoursRemovefromthecurewashunderagentlyrunningtapandpatdrywithkitchenpaperPlaceinthefridge
ForthesousingliquorputalltheingredientsexceptthecarrotsandfennelintoasaucepanandbringtotheboilRemovefromtheheatandpouroverthecarrotskeepingthefennelseparateAllowtocooltoroomtemperaturethenchillCoverthemackerelintheliquorandleaveinthefridgeovernight
Tomakethegranitabring500mlwatertotheboilinasaucepanPutthegooseberriesinasteamerbasketandplaceoverthewaterCoverandsteamfor45minutesThesteambreaksdownthegooseberriesandtheirjuicedripsintothewaterThegooseberriesareleftwithlittleflavourafterwardssoarebestdiscarded
Removethepanfromtheheataddthesugartothegooseberry-flavouredwaterandstirtodissolveGentlyrollthemintleavesbetweenyourthumbandfingerthenputthemintheliquidandleavetoinfusefor20minutesRollingtheleavesbruisesthemslightlywithoutdamagingthemsothattheygiveoffmorearomaandflavourtheliquidmoreeffectivelyStraintheliquidthroughmuslinorafinesieveandleavetocoolthenchillPourintoaplasticboxandputinthefreezerLeavefor1houroruntilitrsquosstartingtosetaroundtheedgesthenremovefromthefreezerandrakestraightlinesfromtoptobottomwithaforkPlacebackinthefreezerfor30minutesandthenrakewithaforkagainRepeatuntilthegranitaiscompletelyfrozenintoicecrystalsItwillkeepinthefreezerforamonth
crystalsItwillkeepinthefreezerforamonth
WhenthemackerelhashaditsnightinthefridgeremoveitfromthesouseandpatdryCutthefilletsinto1ndash2cmstrips(thethintailsectionsmakeatastysnackwhileyouplateuptherestofthedish)ThesousingliquorwillbealittlecloudyafterthemackerelhasspentsometimeinitIfyouareusingthisrecipeforadinnerpartyandwanttogivetheextrawowfactorthendiscardtheliquidandmakeafreshbatchThiswillgivegreatclaritytothefinisheddish
ToservebunchsomefennelinthecentreofeachservingbowlandplacethemackerelarounditRollthecarrotsintoribbonsandarrangethemaroundthemackerelPourinenoughofthesousingliquidjusttocoverthebottomofeachbowlPlaceatablespoonofthegranitaontopofthefennelandfinishwithacoupleofstrandsofsaffronineachbowl
daggerMackerelhasbeenafavouritefishinBritainforcenturiesItformedthebasisoftheRomanliquamenalsoknownasgarumafermentedfishsauceusedincookingandwhichtheybroughtwiththemtotheBritishIslesRecordsshowthatasearlyas1353DanielRoughtheclerkofRomney
KentandaprominentfishmongersoldmackereltothelocalsBythe1660sitseemsthatmackerelhadbecomepopularfurtherinlandasitstartscroppingupinbreakfastdishesoftheperiodSuchwideravailabilitymighthavebeentheresultofanActofParliamentpassedin1669whichfinallydeclaredthatLondonrsquosfishmarketatBillingsgatecouldopensixdaysperweek
daggerContrarytocommonbeliefthegooseberryisnotanativeberryOriginallycultivatedincoolerareasofEuropeitgrowssowellinBritishsoilthatitquicklybecamenaturalisedRecordsfromtheroyalgardenatWestminstershowthatbusheswereplantedinthethirteenthcenturyBythenineteenthcenturygooseberrieswerecultivatedonalargecommercialscaleCompetitivegooseberry-growingclubswereestablishedallovertheUKandthequesttofindthebestandbiggestfruitwastakenextremelyseriouslyUnfortunatelyintheearly1900stheentiregooseberrycropwaswipedoutduetoamildewdiseasebroughtinfromtheUnitedStatesLuckilyforourBritishpalatestheplantwasreintroducedalthoughitneverregainedthepopularityithadenjoyedintheVictorianera
ChilledBeetrootSoupPar-celWalnutIceCreamandRoastedCobnutOil
DuringourfirstsummerattheWalledGardenwenoticedwithsomedegreeofsurprisethatwhenevertherewasevenaslightindicationofsunnyweathercustomerswouldignorethefreshlymadehotsouponthemenupreparedwithvegetablespickedfromthegardenthatsamemorningThischilledbeetrootsoupprovedtobeanacceptablealternativeTherecentsuccessofbeetrootinBritishcookingmustbedueatleastin
parttoitswonderfulcombinationofsweetnessandearthinessItsearthyaromacomesfromgeosminanorganiccompoundfoundinbeetsandthe
aromacomesfromgeosminanorganiccompoundfoundinbeetsandthesameionicaromayougetduringrainafteradryspellThisscentisdetectablebythehumannoseatverylowconcentrationsWalnutsareaperfectmatchfortheearthytasteofbeetroottheirbitternessbalancedbythesubtlesweetnessofthisgeosmingemMarkgrowsafascinatingparsleyandcelerycrosscalledpar-celItisso
pungentthatyouneedonlyasmallamountasanalternativetocelery
SERVES61kgbeetrootcutinto2cmdice500gonionscutinto2cmdice250gcarrotscutinto2cmdice1litrebeefstock(seehere)2tablespoonschoppedpar-cel(oruse250gceleryandahandfulofparsleystalks)
seasaltroastedcobnutoiltoserve(weuseoilfromHurstwoodFarminKentseeourlistofFriendsandSuppliersonhere)FORTHEWALNUTICECREAM
225gclottedcream75gwalnutsfinelychopped
TomakethewalnuticecreamsimplystirboththeingredientstogetherthenfreezeinaplasticboxBecauseofthehighfatcontentthecreamwillstillbesupplewhenfrozenandbeautifulscoopedswirlscanbemadebypullingaspoonoverthesurfacejustbeforeservingthesoup
Putthebeetrootonionsandcarrotsintoapanwiththebeefstockandpar-celthenaddenoughwatertocoverthevegetablesBringtotheboilcoverandsimmerfor35minutesoruntilthevegetablesaretenderbutnotfallingapartPourthecontentsintoacolandersetoverabowlandleaveuntilthoroughlydrainedTastethestockandseasonwithsalttotasteItwillbeadarkrichcolourandheavilyredonthespoonWatchyoursummerwhites
ThesoupistheliquidthatcomesfromdrainingthevegetablessoleavethistocoolandthenchillIfyouneedtochillthesoupquicklyplaceicecubesinafreezerbagsealitandfloatitintheliquidAlternativelymakethesouponthesamedayasthewalnuticecreamandchillitovernightThevegetables
thesamedayasthewalnuticecreamandchillitovernightThevegetablesthathavebeencookedinthestockcanbereservedandservedasamashonanotheroccasion(mashtherootsandonionsseasonwithsaltbutterandchoppedtarragonreheatgentlyandservewithleftoversmustardisgreattolivenituptoo)
Servethesoupchilledwithaspoonfulofthewalnuticecreamandasmatteringofrichroastedcobnutoilwhichwillshimmeronthesurfacealluringly
daggerWalnutsareoneofthemostpopularnutsinBritainhistoricalrecordsshowthatwalnuttreesweregrownintheearlymedievalperiodTheyareagluttonrsquosdelightSinceharvestswereuncertainfromoneyeartothenextitwasthoughtacceptabletoeatasmanywalnutsaspossiblewhentheharvestwasplentifulWalnutswerethoughttohelpdigestionsotheywereeatenwholeattheendofthemealOnecanimaginethatthisbeliefdespitebeingtotallyunfoundedwouldhaveencouragedpost-mealconversationwhichisprobablythereasonthetraditioncontinuedwellintothetwentiethcentury
Ewersquos-curd-stuffedCourgetteFlowerswithFennelSherbet
CourgetteflowershaveneverreallybeenpopularintheUKPaucirclahasfondmemoriesofeatingtheminquesadillasinMexicowhenshewasachildSheusedtobuythematastallonhergrandmotherrsquosstreetclosetothemarketwheretheywouldarriveeverymorningincopiousamountsaddingatouchofsunshinetoanalreadycolourfulstallShetalkedaboutthemsomuchthattheywereoneofthefirstdishesMatthewtriedwhenhetravelledtoMexicotomeetPaucirclarsquosfamilySincethenwehavewonderedwhethertheirlackofpopularityintheUKisdowntothegeneralviewthatcourgettesdonottasteofmuchatallandconsequentlythattheirflowersdonrsquoteitherTheygrowwellheresothereshouldcertainlynotbeashortageofflowersinthesummerItwouldbeanabsolutepleasureforusiftheBritishcouldadoptthecourgettefullyintotheircookingInthisdishtheflowersarebakedndashprimarilysothattheewersquoscurdmelts
becomingcreamierbutalsobecausetheytendtobealittlebitspikywhenrawNotonlydotheylookfantasticontheplatebutsurelyfewotherflowersepitomisesummersoeffectivelyWedareanyonenottothinkofsunshinewhenpresentedwithabright-yellowcourgetteflowerThefennelsherbetaddsatouchoffreshnesstobalancethemilkycobnuts
SERVES41yellowand1greencourgette8courgetteflowersstamensremoved160gfreshewersquoscurd40gfreshcobnutslightlycrushedcobnutorhazelnutoilfordrizzling
FORTHEWILDFENNELSHERBET
100gicingsugar2tspcitricacid1tspbicarbonateofsoda1tbspwildfennelseeds(orordinaryfennelseeds)
Tomakethesherbetputalltheingredientsinablenderandblitzuntilthe
Tomakethesherbetputalltheingredientsinablenderandblitzuntiltheseedsarefinelygroundthenpassthroughafinesieve(Itwillkeepinanairtightcontainerforuptoamonthandisgreatwithicecreamsandsprinkledoverotherdesserts)Heattheovento200degCGasMark6Topandtailthecourgettesthencutthemalongtheirlengthinwafer-thinslicesusingamandolineorvegetablepeelerStufftheflowerswiththeewersquoscurdTodothiswefillapipingbagwiththecurdandplacethetipofthenozzleintheflowerbeforefillingAlternativelyyoucouldjustgentlyopenuptheflowersandspooninthecurdPlacetheflowersonaroastingtrayandbakefor2ndash3minutesuntilthecheesehasmeltedandthetipsoftheleavesarebeginningtocrispalittleRemovefromtheovenandkeepwarm
Arrangethecourgetteribbonsdecorativelyon4servingplatesandplacethestuffedflowersamongstthemLightlyscatterwiththecobnutsaddadrizzleofoilandthendustwiththefennelsherbet
GlobeArtichokeswithHollandaiseSauceandSumac
TheinspirationforthisdishcomesfromPaucirclaItwasthemostrequesteddishinherMexicangrandmotherrsquosvastrepertoireandwithgoodreasonShedidnotalwayssayyestothisparticularrequestasitwastrulyalabourofloveIttooksolongtopreparethatshewouldwaitforaspecialoccasionwhensheknewmostofthefamilywouldbepresentOnlythenwouldshestartthelaborioustaskofcarefullyplacingasliceofpanelacheesebetweeneachartichokeleafTheclosershegottothecentreoftheartichoketheharderthisbecameShewouldthencoverthemwithasecretmixtureinvolvingbreadcrumbsandeggsbeforedeep-fryingTherewasatleastoneartichokeforeachmemberofthefamilyandsinceitwasnotthesmallestfamilyyoucanimaginehowlongthewholeprocesstookForPaucirclaitsymbolisescommunaleatingwithplentyofstoriesandconversationbeforeyoureachedtheartichokersquoshearteatenwithagenerousamountoffreshlysqueezedlimejuiceandwasheddownwithamezcal(forthosewhowereoldenough)GlobeartichokesaremembersofthethistlefamilyAlthoughtheyare
availableallyearroundtheyareattheirbestduringthesummerThedayMarkthegardenerhandedussomeglobeartichokesstraightfromthegardenweknewwewantedtoreplicatetheideaofcommunalartichokeeatingWecameupwithhollandaisesaucewithsumacfordippingtheleavesintoItrsquosalsoprettygoodwithananchovyandcregravemefraicircchedip(seehere)whichmakesasimpleralternativetothehollandaiseoryoucanservethembothAwordofwarningisneededherethisisnotadishforthefastidiouseater
UsingyourfingersisprettymucharequirementanditishighlylikelythatyouwillneedtolickthemattheendDonrsquotbotherwithserviettestheywillonlyhamperyourenjoymentPlacetheartichokeplatewiththebowlofhollandaiseinthecentreinthemiddleofthetableandpeelofftheouterleavesfromyourartichokeDipthemintothehollandaisesauceandsumacbeforeeatingthetenderflesharoundthebaseofeachleafPaucirclarsquosgrandmotherwouldnodoubtapprove
SERVES44largeglobeartichokesstalksremoved
HollandaiseSauce(seehere)andorAnchovyCregravemeFraicirccheDip(seehere)toservealittlesumacforsprinkling
UsingapairofscissorscutthetipofeachspikyleafofftheartichokesThesespikesarenotsuchfuntoeatPuttheartichokesinasteamerandsteamoveragentleheatfor25minutesoruntiltender
Meanwhilewhipupthehollandaisesauceortheanchovycregravemefraicircchedip(orboth)Putthemintobowlsandsprinklethehollandaisewithsumac
RemovetheartichokesfromthesteamerandserveonaplateHaveasparebowlatthesidetodiscardtheinediblepartsoftheleavesStartpeelingtheleavesawayfromtheartichokeThebaseofeachleafyieldsasmallfleshymorselDipthebaseintothesaucesandeatstraightofftheleafdiscardingtherestoftheleafEveryleafyoueatwillyieldmoreandmoreediblefleshuntilyougettotheheartoftheartichokendashundoubtedlythebestbitndashbuttakecaretoremovethehairylayeroflsquochokersquo
PeaGoatBaconandLovageBroth
Baconandpeashasbeenaclassiccombinationsincethe1600swhenaccordingtoAlanDavidsonrsquosOxfordCompaniontoFood(OxfordUniversityPress1999)theyweresoldasstreetfoodlsquohotgreypeaseandasuckofbaconrsquoThepeaswouldhavebeendriedbutwefavourfreshpeaswhicharegrownbyMarkthegardenerInsteadofordinarybaconweuseourownlsquogoatbaconrsquoorcuredgoatloinIthasrichcuminovertonesfromthesimplecureandispleasantlysaltyLovageandpeasworkwelltogetherThisisworkingfoodndashitlooksandtasteslikeadishthatshouldbeeaten
afteraharddayinthegardenThegoatbaconneedstobemadeseveraldaysbeforerequiredbutoncecureditwillkeepfortwoweeksandcanbeusedinthesamewayasordinarybaconYourbutchershouldbeabletoordergoatloinforyoubutifyoucanrsquotgetholdofitsubstituteporktenderloin
SERVES41kgunshelledfreshpeasrapeseedoil4smallredonionsor8springonionscutintoquarters1litrewhitechickenstock(seehere)abunchoflovageleavesasplashofcidervinegarifneededseasalt
FORTHEGOATBACON
2goatloinsweighing250ndash350geachsilvermembraneremoved20gfineseasalt10gdarkmuscovadosugar1tspfennelseeds2tspcorianderseeds1tbspcuminseedsfrac12tspblackpeppercorns
FirstmakethebaconTietheloinstogetherwithseverallengthsofbutcherrsquosstringatintervalsof5cmorsoPlacethesaltsugarandspicesinafoodprocessororspicegrinderandblitztoafinepowderLaytheloinsonalarge
pieceofclingfilmatleast4timesaswideastheloinsCoverwiththespicemixtureandwraptightlyintheclingfilmPlaceinalargeplasticcontainerandleaveinthefridgefor5ndash7daysturningonceadayDonotdrainoffanyliquidthatescapesduringthistime
RemovethebaconfromthefridgewashoffallthespicesunderacoldtapandpatdryonkitchenpaperHangthemeatinawarmwell-ventilatedareasuchasthekitchenoranairingcupboardfor12hoursoruntilitiscompletelydrytothetouchndashatemperatureof25degCisidealsoadjustthetimeyouhangthemeataccordinglyWhenthebaconisreadyitshouldhaveadistinctsweetgoatsmellandberichincumin
ShellthepeasensuringyouhavesomethingelsetonibbleordrinkalongsidendashotherwiseyoursquollbeluckytohaveanyleftbytheendHeatalittlerapeseedoilinasaucepanaddtheonionsandfryuntillightlycolouredUsingalargesharpknifecut15slicesfromthegoatbaconthethicknessofbaconrashersAddthemtothepanandfrytilltheytakeonsomeofthecaramelcolourfromtheonionsAddagoodsplashofthechickenstockstirringtodeglazethepanPourintheremainingstockthenaddthelovageleavesandthepeasBringtoasimmerandcookforacoupleofminutesuntilthepeasaretenderTastethebrothanddecidewhetheritrequiressaltandasplashofcidervinegarVinegarwillcutthroughthefattinessofadishandcalmanysaltinessAbigbowlofpeasforteaHappypeadaysforsure
ScallopsinPuffPastrywithVermouthandFennelCream
ThislookslikeaverysimpledishalmostasifithadjustbeenpluckedfromtheshorelineChoosethecurvedshellofthescalloptoservetheminratherthantheflatoneThepastrycoverleavesyourgueststhetaskofdiscoveringwhatyouhaveplacedbeneathSincescallopsneedverylittlecookingandtheshellsconductheatsowellalltheingredientsquicklysteamunderthepastryasitcrispsintheovenThedishcanbeassembledinadvancekeptchilledandthenfinishedin10minutes(addacoupleofminutestothecookingtimeiftheyrsquovebeenkeptinthefridge)ThesauceisbasedonasimplereductionReducingliquidbyboilingit
rapidlyforcesittoevaporatecausingittothickengraduallyThecombinationoffishstockvermouthandcreambeginsassweetandrichandendsupwithasavouryandsatiatingbitternessafterbeingreducedFennelisaningredientinsomevermouthsandhasatriedandtestedaffinitywiththebotanicalflavoursinourvermouth(seehere)Thescallopscanbeservedonfennelfrondsthosefeatheryleavesatthetopofthefennelbulb
SERVES6150mlfishstock(seehere)75mlsinglecream50mldryvermouth(forourhouseVermouthseehere)6diver-caughtscallopsincludingtheorangeroeplustheirshells1smallcarrot1smallonionfrac14smallbronzefennelbulb320gpuffpastry(forhomemadeseehere)1eggbeatenwithapinchofsalttoglazeseasaltandblackpepper
Putthefishstockinaheavy-bottomedpanplaceoverafairlyhighheatandletitboilawayvigorouslyuntilreducedbyhalfitsvolumeAddthecreamandvermouthandcontinuetoboiluntilthesaucehasthickenedandreducedbyhalfagainTasteandaddsaltifneededthenremovefromtheheatand
leavetocool
Sliceeachscallophorizontallyinto3iftheyarethickenoughtodosoorinhalfiftheyarealittlesmallerCutthecarrotintomatchstick-sizedpiecesandfinelydicetheonionCutthefennelbulbquarterintoveryfineslicesAddalayerofeachvegetabletoeachcurvedscallopshellandplacethescallopslicesontopPouracoupleoftablespoonsofthesauceovereachscallopandcracksomeblackpepperoverthem
Rolloutthepastryonalightlyflouredworktopto2ndash3mmthickCutitinto6squareslargeenoughtocoverthescallopshellsPressthepastryontotheedgeofeachshellworkingrounditwithyourthumbsothesharpshellcutsthroughtrimmingofftheexcessThiswillsealtheedgesatthesametimeCoverwithclingfilmandchilluntilneeded
Heattheovento200degCGasMark6Brushthepastrywiththebeateneggandplacetheshellsintheovenfor8minutesoruntilthepastryislightlycoloured
PickledPollackwithFlame-roastedPeppersCucumberPulBiberChilliandWaterMint
PollackmakesasuperbsustainablealternativetoitscloserelativescodandhaddockwhichhavebecomeoverfishedalmosttothepointofextinctioninsomepartsoftheworldItsflakytextureisverysimilartothatofthebetter-knownwhitefishyetithassufferedabadreputationinthepastandhasbeencriticisedforbeingtastelessEventheillustriousJaneGrigsoninherbookFishCookery(MichaelJosephLtd1973)relegatedittothequalityofaMondayfishratherthanaFridayoneWecouldnotdisagreemoreTheearthinessoftheroastedpeppersperfectlycomplementstheacidityinthepickledfishwiththecucumberandmintaddingatouchoffreshnessThedishisfinishedwithascatteringofpulbiberchilliAlsoknownasAleppopepperthisisafruitymedium-hotchilliwithcuminovertonesasaltytasteandanoilyfinishItmarrieswiththemintexceptionallywellScallopsmakeagreatalternativetopollackinthisrecipe
SERVES4650ndash750gpollackfillet4tbspcoarseseasalt2redpeppers1cucumberahandfulofwatermint(orgardenmint)100glandcressorwatercressjuiceof4limesmixedwithequalpartsofcidervinegarafewpulbiber(Aleppo)chilliflakes
ThefirstjobistocurethefishbysaltingitndashthisdrawssomeofthewaterfromitScatterthecoarsesaltoveraplasticorwoodentrayandplacethefishonitskin-sideupCoverwithclingfilmandplaceinthefridgefor1frac12hoursnomoreInthemeantimeflame-roastthepeppers(seehere)andslicethemintostripsSlicethecucumberintolongstripsbypullingavegetablepeelerdownitslengthandwashandpatdrythemintandcress
RemovethefishfilletfromthefridgerinseoffanyresidualsaltandpatdrywithkitchenpaperItwillhavefirmedupnicelymakingthenextstepeasier
withkitchenpaperItwillhavefirmedupnicelymakingthenextstepeasierwhileseasoningatthesametimeWithasharpknifecuttingawayfromyouatanangleslicethinstripsoffishfromtheskinandplacetheminthelimejuiceandvinegarmixtureTheacidwilleffectivelylsquocookrsquothefishbyloweringitspHlevelThisforcescoagulationinthesamewayheatdoesbutmoreslowlyFinelyslicedasitisthefishwillneedamaximumof20minutesforthistohappenYouwillseeitturnwhiteassoonasitlandsintheliquid
ArrangethewatercresscucumberslicesofpepperandmintontheplatesPlacethepollackslicesamongsttheleavesanddustwithafewpulbiberflakes
DorsetBlueVinnyandFlame-roastedPepperswithCharredLittleGem
ThissaladissimplesummerfoodanddeservestobecookedandassembledinallitspartsoutsideFlame-roastingisourfavouritewayofcookingpeppersThesmokeimpartsadepthofflavourthatactsasagreatcontrasttotheirinherentsweetnessWeliketocookthemonabarbecuewhenthefirehasdiedawayandthecoalsaresearinglyhotThepeppersarelaidinaspiralformationdirectlyonthecoalsandturnedoverinorderastheirskinsturntoslateblackLeavingthemonthebarbecuefortoolongwillmakepeelingthecharredskinverydifficultsoanattentiveeyeisneededWeoftencookauberginesinthesamewayonthebarbecueoragashob
OncetheskinshaveblackenedmakesurethatyoudonotloseanyofthepreciousjuicethatiscontainedwithinthefruitIthasaflavourthatmustbeexperiencedWelikecorianderseedsherefortheirgentlegrassyorange-likeflavour
aswellasalittlegroundcorianderWealsodropafewcorianderflowersintothesaladTheirflavourismilderthancorianderleavesandatfirstglancetheyresemblecowparsleyDorsetBlueVinnyisastapleinourkitchenApieceontheripersideisblendedwithcregravemefraicircchetomakeasauce
SERVES4ASAMAINCOURSE6ndash8ASASTARTER2Romeropeppers200ndash250gnewpotatoescutinto1cmpieces6ndash8LittleGemlettucesvegetableorrapeseedoilforbrushing300gmixedlettuceleavesTheEthicureanSaladDressing(seehere)6ndash8corianderflowerheadsgroundcorianderfordusting2tspcorianderseedslightlycrushed
FORTHEDORSETBLUEVINNYSAUCE
50gDorsetBlueVinnyroughlychopped
50gDorsetBlueVinnyroughlychopped150mlcregravemefraicirccheseasalt
BeginbyroastingthepepperseitheronabarbecueasdescribedaboveoronagashobasfollowsturnagasringonfullplacethepeppersdirectlyontheflameandleaveuntiltheskinbeginstoblisterandblackenUsingmetaltongsturnthepeppersandrepeatontheothersideItispossibletoovercookthepeppersbythismethodsocareisneededtoensurethatonlytheskinisincontactwiththeflame(IfyoudonothaveagashobthencutthepeppersverticallyinhalfandremovetheirseedsLightlyoiltheskinandplaceunderahotgrilluntiltheskinblistersandblackens)Assoonasthepeppersareblackenedalloverplaceinasmallbowlcoverwithclingfilmandleavefor20minutes
Meanwhilecookthepotatoesinboilingsaltedwaterforabout12minutesuntilaknifetippassesthroughthepotatowithlittleresistanceDrainandleavetocool
PuttheDorsetBlueVinnyandcregravemefraicirccheinablenderorfoodprocessorandblitzuntilsmoothSeasonwithsalttotasteIfthecheeseistoostrongforyourlikingsimplylengthenitwithalittlemorecregravemefraicircche
WithalightlydampenedclothorhandtowelrubthepepperstoremovetheblackenedskinSplittheminhalfandremovetheseedsTearthepeppersverticallyalongtheirnaturallsquograinrsquointostripsabout5ndash10mmthickandsetaside
PlaceagriddlepanoverahighheatLightlybrushtheoutsideofeachLittleGemlettucewithrapeseedorvegetableoilPutthemonthegriddlepanandleaveundisturbeduntiltherearecharredlinesunderneathTurnandrepeatonallsidesuntiltheleavesarecolouredandtenderAvoidovercookingthemwhichwouldresultintoodarkacolourandacrisptextureSetasideinawarmplace
PutthecharredLittleGemonservingplatesamongstthemixedleavesScatterthepotatoesaroundandlightlydresstheleaveswiththesaladdressingDotthepepperstripsthroughouttheleavesandadddropsoftheBlueVinnydressingSeparatethecorianderheadsintosmallerflowersand
usetogarnishthesaladDustwithgroundcorianderandafewcrushedcorianderseeds
JohnDorywithMorelMushroomsFlatBeansHaricotBeansandHamHockStock
MorelmushroomshaveanaturalaffinitywithfishandmakeaparticularlyfinecompaniontoJohnDoryJackcanrememberpreppingthisfishduringhisfirstjobasakitchenporterThespinesweresharpbutthecookedfishwasarevelationAlittlefishmongeringisrequiredherendashitrsquosnotatallcomplicatedifyou
wanttogiveitagoyourselfThefilletsonJohnDoryareconnectedonlylightlyandcanalmostbeprisedfreewiththumbsaloneoncethespineisremovedwithscissorsTheoutsideofthefishshowsadistinctarcedlinethatsweepsinagentlelsquosrsquoThisiswherethespinerunsandisakeyidentifierinunderstandingitssimpleyetbeautifulanatomyIfyouarenewtofilletingjusttakeyourtimeanduseyourfingerstofeelaroundthebonesasyougoAknifeshouldonlyreallybeneededtocoaxthefilletsfreeinsomeplacesBythetimeyouhaveextractedthefourfilletsyouwillwellandtrulyunderstandtheprocessJohnDoryisoneofthefirstfishwelettheyoungrsquounsprepareattherestaurantWeonlygivethemonewarningonanykindoffishdonrsquotrubyourhandupwardsfromtailtoheadastheyarealwaysspikythiswayTherehaveneverbeenanycomplicationsandallcomeawaybeamingathavingmasteredanewskillSomefishhavedelicateskinswhichmakeverygoodeatingJohnDory
skinisoneofourfavouritesThesecrettoensuringitiscrispanddeliciousistomakesureitisverydrybeforecookingRemovethefishfilletsfromthefridgeandplacethemflesh-sidedownonaboardRunaknifesidewaysovertheskinlikeasqueegeeonawindowandasurprisingamountofliquidwillbefreedPatthisawaywithkitchenpaperandthefishwillbereadytocookHamandharicotbeanisaclassicpairingPulsescanbecookedwitha
pigrsquostrotterwhichaddsglossandsheenfromthegelatineinthebonesInthisrecipeweusehamhockstocktodothesamejob
SERVES4300gharicotbeanssoakedin2changesofcoldwaterfor12ndash24hoursthendrained
5gdriedmorelmushroomscidervinegar
cidervinegarabout400mlhamhockbroth(seehere)abunchofflat-leafparsleyorlovage200gflatbeans(alsoknownasheldabeans)trimmedandcutintobite-sizedchunks
rapeseedoil2JohnDoryweighing500ndash750geachfilleted(askyourfishmongertodothisifyouprefer)
flakyseasalt
CoverthesoakedbeanswithfreshwaterandbringtotheboilReducetheheatandsimmerfor35minutesuntiljustcookedbutstillwithalittlebiteDrainandsetaside
Coverthemushroomswithhotwateraddasplashofcidervinegarandleavethemtosoftenfor20minutesMorelsaretypicallyfoundonsandysoilandhavemyriadcavitiesinwhichthiscangettrappedGentlymassagethesoftenedmushroomstohelpfreeanysandorgritwhichwillsinktothebottomofthewaterOncethemorelsarecleanpourthevaluableearthyliquidintoacupdiscardingthesandydregsSlicethemushrooms
PutthedrainedbeansinasaucepanthenaddthemushroomsoakingliquidandenoughhamhockbrothtocoverthemjustbarelyAddtheslicedmorelsacoupleofstalksfromtheparsleyorlovageandtheflatbeansandbringtoasimmerCookstirringoccasionallyuntilthestockhasreducedenoughtocoatthebeansRemovefromtheheatseasonandcoverwithalid
Placealargeheavy-basednon-stickfryingpanoveramediumheatandletitheatupAddenoughrapeseedoiltocreatealargepuddleItmightsmokelightlyasitheatsthisisagoodindicatorthatitisreadytocookinSprinkleflakysaltontheskinsideofthefishandlaythefilletsskin-sidedownintheoilIfyoucanfitonly2filletsinthepancookthemin2batchesastheskinwonrsquotcrispifthepaniscrowdedIfyouhavesomesmallramekinsplaceoneonthemiddleofeachfillettoholditflatResisttheurgetomovethefilletsinthepanAfter3ndash4minutesthefishshouldhaveturnedwhitearoundtheedgesandthroughtothetopexposedfleshTheextremeedgeswillalsobegintobrownalittleOncethebandofwhiteattheedgeofthefishhas
begintobrownalittleOncethebandofwhiteattheedgeofthefishhasworked1ndash2cminwardsthenyoucanliftthefishslightlywithafishsliceandpeerunderneaththeskinshouldbealightcaramelcolourTurnthefilletsoverandremovethepanfromtheheatTheresidualheatwillbemorethansufficienttocooktheothersidewithinaminuteortwo
Servethefishalongsidethecookedbeanswithchoppedflat-leafparsleyorlovage
daggerJohnDoryisbesteatenwhensummerdrawstoacloseasJunetoAugustisthebreedingseasonIthasalargeeye-likepatchonitsflankthatconfusesbothpredatorsandpreytheformerfearingalargerfishandthelattermistakingitforamouthApopularlegendisthatthemarkonaJohnDoryisthethumbprintofStPeterthekeeperofthegatesofheavenThoughcoveredinspinesandyieldingaprehistoric-lookingflatbodyJohnDoryisafearfullytastynativefish
MusselsinCiderwithTarragon
MusselsareoneofourfavouriteshellfishWearetrulyaddictedtothemandfeelyoucanneverhaveenoughItisperhapswithoutmuchobjectivitythereforethatwewouldclaimtheyareoneofthemostoutstandingfoodstobefoundintheBritishIslesWehaveintroducedaWestCountrytwisttothisclassicrecipewiththe
additionofamedium-drylocalcidercalledPerryrsquosDabinettbutanygoodmedium-drycidercanbesubstitutedRatherthanusingfishstockweoptforthedeeplyrichandmeatypressure-cookedchickenstockthatisanessentialpartofourkitchenroutine(seehere)ChickenandciderhaveagreataffinitywitheachotherandyouwillsoonseewhythecombinationworkssowellinthisdishThelsquobridgingrsquoflavouristhetarragonIfyoudonrsquothaveanyyoucansubstitutestaranise
SERVES2(OR4ASASTARTER)1ndash15kglivemusselsrapeseedoil3shallotsslicedintohalfmoons1garlicclovecrushedunderaknifeandthenfinelysliced250mlmedium-drycider250mlbrownchickenstock(seehere)100mldoublecream4sprigsoftarragonseasaltsourdoughbreadtoserve
ItisimportanttocleanthemusselsandcheckthattheyarealivebeforecookingRinsethemundercoldwaterandremovetheirlsquobeardsrsquobypullingthemawayInevitablyafewmusselswillbeslightlyopenTapthemquitehardseveraltimesontheworksurfaceIfafteraminuteorsothemusselclosesthenyouknowitisaliveAnymusselsthatdonotcloseshouldbediscarded
HeatasplashofrapeseedoilinalargepanaddtheshallotsandgarlicandfryoveramediumheatuntilsoftenedbutnotbrownedAddtheciderchicken
overamediumheatuntilsoftenedbutnotbrownedAddtheciderchickenstockandcreamandturntheheatuphighwiththelidonOncetheliquidhascometoarapidboilandthereisplentyofsteamaddthemusselstothepanStironcecoverthepanagainandcookfor2ndash3minutesuntilthemusselsopenAddthetarragonsprigsandstirthemusselstocheckthatthemajorityhaveopenedAnythatdonrsquotopenshouldbediscardedItisfareasiertoovercookmusselsthanitistoundercookthemsoresisttheurgetocontinueanylonger
Withaslottedspoondividethemusselsbetween2servingbowlsthentastethecookingliquidandaddsaltifneededitwillprobablyalreadybesaltyfromthemusselsLadletheliquoroverthemusselsandgetamongstthemprontoAnemptymusselshellmakesaperfectsetoftweezersforremovingtheremainingmusselsfromtheirshellsanddecentsourdoughbreadwillthirstilymopupthelastdropsoftheliquor
SteamedMegrimSolewithRockSamphireandSumac-braisedFennel
RocksamphirehascomplexcitrusnoteshintsofeucalyptusandadelicatelingeringbitternessthatpairswellwithfishWeforagerocksamphirefromthelocalcoastline
SERVES260gbutteratroomtemperatureplusanextraknob1tbspchoppedmixedflat-leafparsleythymeandmint2tbspsumac4tbspcidervinegar2fennelbulbsrapeseedoil2carrots1megrimsoleweighing750gndash1kg(or1witchor2dabs)200grocksamphireormarshsamphireaglassofwhitewineseasaltandblackpeppercrustybreadtoserve
Beatthe60gbutterwiththeparsleythymeandmintthenchillBringthesumacandcidervinegartoasimmerinasmallsaucepanthenstrainandreservetheliquid
LightlytrimthetopandbottomofthefennelbulbsCuteachoneverticallyintoquartersthecorewillholdeachpiecetogetherinsegmentsHeattheknobofbutterinapanwithasplashofrapeseedoilAddthefennelandcookoveramedium-highheatfor5ndash6minutesoneachsideuntilbrownedandlightlycaramelisedAddsomesaltandthesumacvinegarwhichshouldroughlycoverthebaseofthepanCoverandcookgentlyfor20ndash25minutesthefennelshouldstillofferalittleresistancetothetipofasharpknifeWhenitiscookedwiththefishlateritwillbecomeverytender
Heattheovento200degCGasMark6Slicethecarrotsasfinelyasyoucan
downtheirlengthIfyoudonrsquothaveamandolineay-shapedvegetablepeelerwillmakeperfectstripstoo
Placealengthofthickfoil2frac12timesthelengthofthefishonaworksurfacePutthecookedfenneltowardsoneendofthefoilandrestthefishonitScatterthesamphireandcarrotsontopofthefishandseasonwithsaltandpepperPulltheedgesofthefoiluparoundthefishandthenpourinthewineCoverthefishwiththeotherendofthefoilandfoldtheedgesintosealittightPlaceonabakingsheetintheovenandbakefor12ndash16minutesuntilthefleshcomesawayfromthespineeasilywhenaknifeisinsertedneartheboneItcouldalsobecookedonabarbecuewithalidastheglassofwinesteamsthefishprettyquicklyThetimingwillbesimilarbutwilldependontheheatofthebarbecue
DropthechilledherbedbutterontothefishpriortoservingThisdishrarelymakesitoutofthefoilatourplacesojustneedsawarmplatetocarryittothetableEatwithcrustybreadtomopupthelastofthejuiceswhichareimpossibletoresist
SALTANDVINEGARPICKLING
SaltandvinegarpreservationisagreatwayofstoringforagedorgardensummerfoodsWhenusedasgarnishesandingredientsinthewintertheywilladdmuchtotheplateduringaseasonwherelessgrows1CalculatingyieldandnumberofjarsWashalltheforagedorgardenvegetablesthoroughlyinacoupleofchangesofcoldwaterWeighthevegetablesandmakeanoteofthequantityPlaceanemptysterilisedjaronthescalesandsetthemtozero(orlsquotarersquo)PackthevegetablesintothejarpressingdownwellandnotedowntheweightDividethetotalweightofthevegetablesbytheweightofthevegetablesinthejar(Soifyouhave130ginthejarand1300gtotalvegetablesyouwillget1300130=10jars)2CalculatingquantitiesofvinegarandsaltPlaceapanonthescalesandsetthemtozero(orlsquotarersquo)Addenoughpicklingorcidervinegartothejartocoverthevegetablesby1cmdepthPouroffthevinegarintothesaucepananddecantthevegetablesintoaseparatebowlMultiplytheweightofvinegarbythenumberofjarsyouhavelinedupandfillthepanwiththisamountofvinegarYouthenneedtoaddtenpercentsalt(Sofor1100gvinegaryouneed110gsalt)3SterilisingUsejarsthathavelidsthatwillsealwelljarsthathaverubberseals(egKilnerjars)arebest(removethesealsbeforeplacingintheOven)Preheattheovento140degCGasMark1WashthejarsinhotsoapywateranddrainwellPlaceonabakingtrayintheovenTheyneedatleast20minutesbutcanstayintheovenuntilneededastheyshouldbehotwhenthecontentsareaddedtopreventtheglasscracking4CookingtheingredientsThismethodisidealforfineorfinelyslicedingredientssuchascourgettessamphireandelderberries
courgettessamphireandelderberriesBringthevinegartotheboilandaddyourchosenspicemix
LowerthevegetablesintothebubblingliquidTheboilingwilllikelystopMaintainthehighheatandwatchfortheliquidtoreturntoarapidboilScoopoutthevegetablesandaddthemtothehotsterilisedjarsContinueuntilallthejarsarefilledthenpourthehotvinegarandspicesintoeachjarcoveringby1cmdepthWithteatowelinhandclosethejarsfirmly(havingreplacedtherubbersealsifusing)andturnthejarsupsidedown
Pickledrocksamphire
PERLITREOFCIDERORPICKLINGVINEGAR
100gseasalt1tablespooncorianderseed1tbspblackpeppercorns8staranise16allspiceberries8freshbayleavesfreshrocksamphire(seehere)
Frythespices(exceptthebayleaves)inalargefryingpanoveramediumheatuntiltheystarttoreleasetheiraromasAddtotheboilingvinegarmixfollowedbythesamphireandfollowtheinstructionsinstep4above
WaterBuffaloFilletwithClearChickenStockTarragonandSalt-bakedBabyBeets
ThechickenstockforthisdishneedsfreezingandthendefrostingthroughalayerofmuslintoclarifyitItwillhavegoldenhuesandbeasbrilliantandclearasbrandywiththismethodItisasomewhatlavishtechniquegiventhereductioninvolumethatoccursbutforaspecialoccasionsuchasasteakwethinkitisworthitThechickenandtarragonpairingistrulyawell-testedoneandthetarragonmakesagreatbridgeforthedelicatebeef-likefilletofbuffaloFormoreoncookingsteaksseehere
SERVES41litrebrownchickenstock(seehere)1kgbabybeetrootswiththeirleafytopsstillattached100grocksaltabunchoftarragon4waterbuffalofilletsteaks25cmthick(seehere)rapeseedoilseasalt
Freezethestockthenturnitoutofitscontainerandwrapitin2layersofmuslinPlaceinasievesetoverabowlthenputinthefridgeThegelatineimpuritiesandfatwillstaysolidinthemuslinatfridgetemperaturewhilethestockwillrunclearbelowResisttheurgetosqueezethemuslinitwilldraindryeventuallyThistechniqueyieldsabouthalftheinitialfrozenweightofstockinfinishedclarifiedstock
Heattheovento180degCGasMark4WashthebabybeetsandscrubthemwellTheywillprobablybeprettycleanatthisyoungagebutbemindfulofsoilresidueSpreadthesaltonabakingtrayandplacethebeetsontopWrapthetrayinfoilsealingitwellandbakefor1houroruntilthebeetsaretenderThesaltwilldrawoutmoistureandseasonthebeetsperfectly
About15minutesbeforethebeetsarecookedheattheclarifiedchickenstockinapanthentasteandseasonwithsaltifrequiredNowisagoodtimetogetyoursteakpansmokinghot
togetyoursteakpansmokinghot
BrushthesteaksverylightlywithrapeseedoilSeasonthemwithsaltbutnotpepperasitwillburnPutthesteaksinthepreheatedpanandleaveoverahighheatturningthemwithalongpairoftongsevery15ndash20secondsIfyouarecooking4filletsthiswillrequirestandingatthestoveturningtheminrotationduringthefewminutesneededtocookthemPeriodicallypresseachsteaktogaugehowwellcookedtheyareandwhenyoufeelyouhavethemspotonremovetoawarmplateLeavethemtorestsomewherewarmfor10minutesnolessThiswillallowthemtorelaxandreabsorbsomeofthejuicethatcomesfromthemInthistimedividethechickenstockbetween4deepplatesfinishingwithfreshtarragonsprigsFillasidebowlwiththebeetswhicharetobeeatenunceremoniouslywithyourfingersLayasteakoneachplateJobdone
WATERBUFFALO
WebuyourwaterbuffalomeatfromLowerOakleyFarmnearYeovilinSomersetTonyandJaneCoupekeepaherdof250ofthesedocilebeastsalldescendedfromAsianwaterbuffaloThecalvesstaywiththeirmothersforfivetosixmonthsthenafterweaningtheyeatnothingbutgrassandinwintersilagefromthefarmTheyareslaughteredat22ndash30monthsandthemeatishungforaminimumof21daysThereisverylittlemarblinginthemeatasmostofthefatisontheoutsideoftheanimalandaroundtheribsWaterbuffalomeathashighlevelsofomega-3fattyacidsandironandisregardedasanall-roundhealthyalternativetobeef
COOKINGSTEAK
WhencookingsteakthereareafewrulestoobserveAlwaysbringthesteaktoroomtemperatureforanhourbeforeithitsthepanasthiswillensureitcooksevenlySaltistheonlyseasoningtobeaddedbutnotfarinadvanceofcookingotherwiseitwilldrawmoisturefromthesteakTheheavierandthickerthepanthebettertheheatwillbedistributedcast-ironpansareidealThetemperatureofthepanisthenextthingtoconsiderItneedstobeveryhotsoputitontheheatandleaveuntilitissohotyoucannotholdyourhandaninchabovethenear-glowingsurfaceTocheckwhetherasteakisdonetoyourlikingpressitwith
yourthumbandgaugethepressurerequiredtodosoRaresteakwillfeelassoftasthefleshofyourcheekoveryourmolarsmediumwillbemorelikethefleshatthetopofyourcheekonyoureyesocketwhichismarginallyfirmerShouldyougetaskedtocookasteaklsquowelldonersquoandyoucanrsquotconvinceyourguestthatlsquomediumrsquowillbeperfectandtenderwithnohintsofredbloodnormallyassociatedwithafour-day-agedcutthenhereishowpressyourforeheadndashprettyfirmcomparedtoyourcheekandagoodwaytoconfirmthatasteakisovercookedthroughoutPainfultoseethatinthekitchenweknow
BarbecuedHorseMackerelwithCobnutSalbitxadaSauce
SinceweprideourselvesonhavingadirectrelationshipwiththeprocessofgrowingwemustadmitthatwearealittlejealousoftheCatalanwintercelebrationforcalcotsCalcotsaresuperbsweetonionsthatareforcedtogrowtallandpalebygraduallybuildingsoiluparoundthemWeknowouronionsandthisoneisacorkerAttentivegardeningisrewardedwiththecalcotadafestivalinJanuarywhentenderstemsarewrappedinnewspaperandthrownontohotcoalstilltheyarecharredTheblackenedskinsarepeeledawayanddippedinsalbitxadaaroastedpeppersaucethatisacachetofculinarybrillianceItisatitsbestwhenmadewithfreshalmondswhicharedelicatelycrispandeversoslightlymilkyndashqualitiesthatournativefreshcobnutsandhazelsshareGiventheabundanceofthesenutsinAugustweneededarecipeforthembeforetheyweresnaffledbythesquirrelsSalbitxadasauceprovedperfectusingupglutsofpeppersandtomatoesandanystalebreadInSpainsherryvinegarisusedbutexcellentvintagecidervinegariswhatwehavehereandithasequalvalueinoureyesWedecidedtocomeupwithourowneventforthesummermonths
whenheritagetomatoesareattheirpeakfourtypesofcobnutaredroppingfromthetreesandthebabyleeksarenighonimpossibletopriseoutofthegardenerrsquoshandsunlessthewordlsquociderrsquoismentionedThisisagreatcelebrationofallthehardworkthathasgoneintothegardenYouwillneedatleasttwogoodbagsofcharcoalplussomeonewhousedtobeascoutwhowillknowwhenthecharcoalisjustrighttocookonOhandiceinyourciderDeadposhWehaveusedhorsemackerelherebutherringsardinesorpilchardsline-
caughtseabassseabreamandblackbreamgreyorredmulletandpollackareallidealforcookingwholeovercoalsandwilllovethesalbitxadapairing
PERPERSON
1corncob4ndash5babyleeks1horsemackerelweighing400ndash500gcleanedalittlerapeseedoilabunchofsummersavory(orthymeorlemonthyme)
abunchofsummersavory(orthymeorlemonthyme)seasalt
FORTHECOBNUTSALBITXADASAUCE(ENOUGHFOR8)1moritachilli(orchipotlechilli)vintagecidervinegar5garliccloves500gheritagetomatoes150gstalesourdoughbreadcutintocubes4Romanopeppersflame-roasted(seehere)1tspsalt1tspsmokedpaprika100gshelledcobnutsfinelychoppedabout4tbsprapeseedoil
FirstmakethesauceTorehydratethechilliputitinasmallcupofboilingwaterwithatablespoonofcidervinegarmixedinandleavefor10minutes
Heattheovento180degCGasMark4WrapthegarlicclovesinfoilandplacethemonabakingsheetalongsidethetomatoesRoastintheovenfor25minutesuntilbothgarlicandtomatoesareverysoftPutthecubesofbreadonabakingsheetandtoastintheovenfor4minutesoruntilgoldenalloverSetthebreadtomatoesandgarlicasidetocoolthenpeeltheroastedtomatoesandgarlicbysqueezingthemfreeoftheirskinsReservealltheliquidandplaceitalongwiththetomatoesandgarlicpulpinablenderwiththepeppersDrainandchopthechilliandaddthatalongwiththesaltandsmokedpaprikaSplashenoughcidervinegaroverthebreadcubestosoftenthemDonrsquotbeshywiththevinegarasitisintegraltothetasteofthefinisheddishAddthebreadandcobnutstotheblenderturnitonandthenaddtherapeseedoilinaslowstreamtillthemixtureisliquidenoughtoblendTasteandchecktheseasoningAlthoughthiscanbemadeinadvanceyouwillhavetotrytoresisteatingitallbeforethebarbecue
GetyourbarbecuegoodandhotThecorncobsneeda30-minutedunkingincoldwaterstillintheirhusksbeforecookingThiswillmoistentheouterlayersenoughtoprotectthemfromthedirectheatofthecoalswhilesimultaneouslyaddingalittlemoistureinternallytohelpthesteaming
simultaneouslyaddingalittlemoistureinternallytohelpthesteamingprocessPlacethecobsdirectlyonthecoalsstillintheirhusksandcookforroughly15minutesturningevery5minutesuntiltenderWrapeachpersonrsquosportionofleeksin2or3layersofdampenednewspaperthensetthemdirectlyonthewhite-hotcoalsTheyarecookedperfectlywhenthepaperisentirelyblackenedandalmostburnedawayThecharredoutersandsteamedmiddlesareeversomoreish
BrushthefishwithalittleoilseasonwithsaltandstuffthecavitywiththeherbsCookonthebarbecuegrillturningonce(alternativelywrapinfoilandplacedirectlyonthecoalsfor5minutesperside)Thefishonthegrillcanbeconsideredcookedwhentheskiniscrispedalloverandthefleshcomesawayfromthespineeasily
HORSEMACKEREL
WediscoveredhorsemackerelwhenonedayitwasallthatwasavailablefromtheboatthatsuppliesusItturnsoutthathorse
mackerelarebright-eyedandgreatservedhotTheseshinylsquoscadrsquocanbefoundnativelyinthesummernotfarfromCornwallandareagreatalternativetocommonmackerelEversoslightlylessoilythanmackerelandgoodforroastingovercoalswestuffthebellywiththepepperymarjoram-likeherbsummersavoury
MixedwithvinegarsummersavourycanhavethesameapplicationasmintsauceSufficetosaywemakealittleofthisto
drizzleoverthefinishedcharcoaledfish
CURING
Saltingfoodorlsquocuringrsquowasamethoddevelopedtopreservefoodbringingdownawholeanimalmeantmoremeatthanthehunter-gatherercouldeatbeforeitwentbadItisbelievedthatdryingmeatwasoneofthefirstexperimentswithpreservationevenpredatingsaltingPeoplewouldleavemeatinthehotsuntodryoutorbuildasmallfireandplacethemeatoveritAlongthewaysomebodyfoundthatsaltingmeatofferedachemicalmeansofachievingthesameresultSaltingwasthencombinedwithsmokingtoachievealongerperiodwhenmeatwassafefromspoilageThesedaystheneedforpreservationhasbeensurpassedby
peoplersquostasteforcuredmeatCuredmeatspossessauniquetextureandintenseflavourbaconisprobablythemostobviousexampleofthisCuringisasimilarconcepttobriningbuthasadifferent
outcomeBrininggenerallyspeakinguseslowpercentagesofsaltinaliquidsolutiontobreakdownfilamentswithinthemuscleresultinginthemuscletakingonandholdingliquidduringthecookingprocessCuringontheotherhandcanbedoneeitherinliquidusingamuchhigherpercentageofsaltorwithadrysaltorspicerubCuringmeatdrawsmoistureoutcausingthemeattoundergo
apermanenttransformationintextureandflavourtheproductbecomesmoreconcentratedachievingamoreintenseflavourAndwhilethemoistureisbeingdrawnoutofthemeatthemeatcantakeonexternalflavoursThisopensupaworldofpossibilityforthecooktobecreativeYoucanaddspicesandherbstothesaltthenblitzitinafoodprocessorThisiswhatwedowhenwedowhenwecureourroeloin(seehere)andthegoatlointomakeourlsquogoatbaconrsquo(seehere)OurgoatbaconisoftenpilferedbythechefwhorsquoscookingonthestoveNeedlesstosaywersquove
almostalwaysgotgoatloincuringinthefridgeinafruitlessbattleagainsttheconstantsnarfingofourfreshculinarycreationTherearemanyvariableswhenitcomestocuringandyou
canbeascreativeandexperimentalasyoulikeAnyrecipesforwhichweusecuringincludethecuremixandtimeHoweverdoexperimentwiththetimethatthemeatisinthecurethetypesofspicesandherbsusedasthesewillallresultindifferentoutcomesAdoptaquestioningattitudeandseekoutanswersforyourself
FennelandSumacGravadTrout
ThisisourversionofthetraditionalScandinaviandishgravadlaxwhichtranslatesaslsquoburiedsalmonrsquondashanindicationofthewayitusedtobepreparedByburyingfishinaholeinthegroundinlayersitwaspreservedinanairtightspaceandlefttofermentTheadditionofsaltcamelateronwhenitbecamemorereadilyavailableOncethefishwasdugoutitmusthavebeenpungenttosaytheleastbutthebeautyofthismethodwasthatitallowedpeopletoeatfishevenwhenthefreshsupplieswerelonggoneHumaningenuityledtotheadditionofherbstomakeitmorepalatableandthecuringtimewasshortenedThecureinjectssomepungentflavourstobalanceoutthesubtletyinherentinfishHeretheaniseednotesinthefennelpairwellwiththecitrustonesofsumac
SERVES4ndash61ndash12kgfreshrainbowtroutfilleted
FORTHECURE
40gfineseasalt70gcastersugar2tspfennelseeds2tspsumac1tspcorianderseeds
frac12tspblackpeppercorns
PlacealltheingredientsforthecureinablenderorfoodprocessorandblitzuntilthespicesarefinelygroundSetaside
CheckthatnopinbonesremaininthetroutfilletsCutsomealuminiumfoilroughly4timesthewidthofatroutfilletand1frac12timesthelengthUseroughlyaquarterofthecuremixtomakeabedinthecentreofthefoilthesamelengthandheightasatroutfilletPlaceonefilletskin-sidedownontopSpreadtwo-thirdsoftheremainingcureoverthefishthenlaythesecondfilletontopofthefirstflesh-to-fleshSpreadtheremainingcureontop
BringthebottomhalfofthefoilupandthetophalfofthefoiloverthetroutsothattheyareedgetoedgeFoldthebottomfoiloverthetoptocreatea1cmpleatKeepfoldingthispleatoveritselfuntilthefoilisflushwiththetroutRepeatthesameprocessontheleftandrightsidesofthefoil
Placethetroutonatrayandweightitdownwithawoodenboardoracoupleofgood-sizedplatesLeaveinthefridgefor6daysLiquidwillbereleasedfromthefishbutavoidthetemptationtodrainitoffThishighlysalineliquidwillcontinuetocurethetrout
After6daysremovethefishfromthefoilparcelandrinseitunderacoldtapPatthefishdrywithkitchenpaperandleaveuncoveredinthefridgeforacoupleofhoursuntilcompletelydryPlaceonaboardandfinelyslicethefleshofftheskinatanangleusingaverysharpknife
ThetroutcanbeservedwithPickledPollack(seehere)orSpeltSodaBread(seehere)andCobnutSalbitxadaSauce(seehere)
WhiteRaspberryLoganberryandEwersquosYoghurtTerrinewithSweetCicelyConfit
Thisdessertusessomelesser-knownberrieswhichgroweasilyinBritishsoilWhiteraspberriesarenotthoughttobenativetoBritainbutthebushesattheWalledGardenseemtothriveandweobtainplentyoffruitChildren
attheWalledGardenseemtothriveandweobtainplentyoffruitChildrenseemtolikethemfindingtheircolourorlackofitratherintriguingTheyareverysweetwithlittleornoacidityandarebestusedindisheswheretheirsubtleflavourisnotoverpoweredLoganberriesaresurprisinglydifficulttofindAnineteenth-century
hybridbetweenablackberryandaraspberrytheylooklikeelongatedraspberriesacquiringadeeppurplish-redcolourwhenripeTheyareonthetangysideandbenefitfromtheadditionofsugarwhenusedincookingYoucouldalsoservethisterrinewithtwosimplecompotesofloganberries
andraspberriesasshowninthephoto
SERVES8ndash10500gwhiteraspberries(orordinaryraspberriesifunavailable)500gloganberries20ggelatineleaves240gfructose(fruitsugar)150gewersquosyoghurt100gdoublecream50gcastersugar1vanillapodmintleaves(optional)togarnish
FORTHEMACERATEDLOGANBERRIES
100gloganberries150mlcidervinegar250gcastersugar
FORTHESWEETCICELYCONFIT(OPTIONAL)
100gcastersugar100mlwhitewine20gsweetcicelystalksfinelysliced
FirstpreparethemaceratedloganberriesPuttheberriesinabowlpouroverjustenoughcidervinegartocoverthenleaveinthefridgeovernightThefollowingdaydrainreservingthevinegarAddthecastersugartothevinegarandstirtodissolvePourtheliquidbackovertheberriesandchill
vinegarandstirtodissolvePourtheliquidbackovertheberriesandchilluntilneeded
Verylightlybrusha750mlterrineorloaftinwithoilthenlineitwithclingfilmFillitwithwaterthengentlymovetheclingfilmsotherearenobubblesremainingunderneathDiscardthewaterandcarefullydrythelinedterrine
Put250gwaterinasteamerandbringtotheboilPutthewhiteraspberriesinthesteamerbasketcoverandsteamoveralowheatfor45minutesDiscardtheraspberriesndashtheywillhavelostalltheirflavourndashandreservetheraspberry-flavouredliquidthatremainsinthepanYoushouldhavemorethantheoriginal250gbecauseoftheliquidfromtheraspberriesWeighout250gyouwonrsquotneedtheremainingliquid
Steamtheloganberriesinexactlythesamewayweighingout250goftheliquidattheend
Place7gofthegelatineinabowlofice-coldwaterandleaveforabout10minutesuntilsoftMeanwhileaddhalfthefructosetothewhiteraspberryliquidandtheotherhalftotheloganberryliquidHeatboththeliquidsseparatelystirringtodissolvethefructosePourtheloganberryliquidintoacontainerleavetocoolandthenrefrigerateuntilneeded
TakethegelatinefromthewatersqueezingouttheexcessAddthegelatinetothewarmwhiteraspberryliquidandstiruntilfullydissolvedPourthisintothelinedterrinetocreateyourfirstlayerLeaveinthefridgefor2ndash4hoursuntilset
Softenanother7gofthegelatineinice-coldwaterinthesamewayTransfertheloganberryliquidtoasaucepanandwarmthroughoveramediumheatAddthesqueezed-outgelatineandstiruntilfullydissolvedLeavetocoolforafewminutesthentaketheterrineoutofthefridgeandslowlypourtheloganberrylayeroverthesetwhiteraspberrylayerReturntothefridgeandleavetosetagain
Meanwhilesoftenthefinal6ggelatineinabowlofice-coldwaterPuttheyoghurtcreamandsugarintoasaucepanSlitthevanillapodopenlengthwaysandscrapeouttheseedsPuttheseedsandpodintothesaucepanandplaceonalow-mediumheatUsingthebackofaspoonbreakupany
andplaceonalow-mediumheatUsingthebackofaspoonbreakupanyclumpsofvanillaseedssotheyareevenlydistributedStirringregularlyheatuntilthesugarhasdissolvedandthemixtureishottothetouchndashnomoreAnythingabovethisandtheyoghurtislikelytosplitresultinginagrainymouthfeelAddthesqueezed-outgelatinetothewarmcreamandyoghurtmixtureandstiruntilfullydissolvedTaketheterrinefromthefridgeandpourtheyoghurtmixtureovertheloganberryjellyReturntothefridgeuntilset
Ifpreparingthesweetcicelyconfitputthesugarandwineinanovenproofpanwith100mlwaterandbringslowlytotheboilstirringtodissolvethesugarAddtheslicedsweetcicelystalksandplaceinanovenpreheatedto80degC(orthelowestpossiblegasovensetting)Cookfor3ndash4hoursoruntilthesweetcicelyisslightlywoodyDraindiscardingthesugarsyrup
Toserveturntheterrineoutontoaboardcarefullypeelofftheclingfilmandsliceitinto8ndash10portionsLaythemonservingplatesanddotaroundthemaceratedloganberriesndashandthesweetcicelyconfitifyouhavemadeitndashinadecorativefashionMintalsoworkswellasagarnish
FRUCTOSE
FructoseisatypeofsugarthatisfoundnaturallyinbothhoneyandfruitandisdifferenttosucrosethesugarthatweconsumeinteaandcakesonadailybasisSucroseisabondbetweenthecomponentsglucoseandfructoseandisadisaccharideFructoseisamonosaccharideandoneofthesimplestformsofcarbohydratesItisworthnotingthatfructoseisoneandahalftimessweeterthansucroseandisthereforeoftenusedinsweetenersduetothefactthatlessisrequiredBearthisinmindwhenusingfructoseasyouwillneedlesstoachievethesamesweetnessassucroseWhenitcomestofruitypreparationsfructoseisourlsquogo-torsquo
ingredientMatthewandIainswearbyitespeciallyaroundthistimeofyearwhenthefruitarrivesinglutsandinterestingcreationsneedtobeconjuredupandattentivelytestedOnlythenwilltheybeaddedtotheever-changingmenuOnthebasis
thenwilltheybeaddedtotheever-changingmenuOnthebasisthatusinglikewithlikeisalwayspreferablewefindthatusingfructosewithfruitachievesamuchgreaterimpactthancanbeachievedwithsucroseItenhancesthefruitsrsquoinherentflavoursandnoticeablybooststhelsquofruitinessrsquo
GELATINE
GelatineisagreatmeansforsettingliquidsandgivesthelsquoclassicjellyrsquomouthfeelthatweareallsofamiliarwithWell-executedjelliesshouldbedelicateandsoftfarfromrubberyorchewyThelatterdefectisusuallydowntoanexcessofgelatine
HowevertheageofajellywillalsolargelyaffectitsstructureandconsistencyndashdessertslsquostiffenuprsquotheoldertheyareGelatinehasatroublesomehabitofnetworkingandjoiningupwithothernetworksofgelatineThemorethishappensovertimethemorewatertheytrapandthestifferthejellybecomesWeutilisethisphenomenontosticktheseparatelayerstogethercreatingoneuniformterrineLeftfortoolongtheterrinewilleventuallylose
itspleasantmouthfeelItisworthattemptingtodevourtheterrinewithintwodaysndashaneasyfeatonceyouhavetastedit
daggerBerriesformanintegralpartofourfoodheritageandarethequintessentialfruitsoftheBritishsummerTheywereanimportantelementintheVictorianfamilyrsquosfruitbowltheprominentcookerywriterMrsBeetonstatedadamantlyinherBookofHouseholdManagementthatthereislsquonofruitsouniversallyinfavourrsquoTheBritishpopulationenjoyedasurprisingpeakofphysicalhealthduringthemid-Victorianera(fromaround1850to1880)whentherewasatendencytoeatmorefreshfruitvegetablesfishandmeat
ElderflowerSorbetwithFennelSherbetandWildStrawberries
EldergrowsveryquicklyandwillrapidlytakeupspaceneededbyotherhedgerowplantssuchashazelchestnutandbeechLuckilyforustheneighbouringfarmerhasrefrainedfromcuttingbacktheelderandthereareseveraltreesthatgrowinthehedgesoppositeMarkrsquospolytunnelshighuponabankawayfromthefieldbelowWecollectasmanyofthesedelicateperfumedflowerheadsinearlysummeraspossibleWemakeourownsherbetforthissorbetVirtuallyanyspicewithin
reasoncanbeaddedtoicingsugarcitricacidandbicarbonateofsodatocreatethischildhoodconfectioneryWeusefennelwithitsaniseflavoursweetsourandaromaticWildstrawberriesaddthefinishingtouchThesetinymorselsofsweet
muskyaciditypushtheirwayupthroughthegapsintheredbrickpathsinthegardenTheychoosetheshadeofthelowboxhedgesandshadowsoftheherbpatchTheycanbefoundgrowingonheathlandandgrassyvergesandinmanygardensItrsquoswellworthtryingtogetholdofsomeastheytasteinfinitelysuperiortothelargercultivatedvarieties
SERVES4ndash610largeelderflowerheads65mlelderflowercordial50gglucosepowder195gcastersugar
TOSERVE
4ndash6ice-creamcones20ndash30wildstrawberries(ifunavailableusesmallcultivatedstrawberriescutintocubes)
WildFennelSherbet(seehere)
RemoveallbutthesmalleststalksfromtheelderflowerheadsandputtheflowersinabowlPutalltheingredientsexcepttheelderflowersinasaucepanadd690mlwaterandbringtotheboilstirringtodissolvethesugarImmediatelyremovefromtheheatandaddtheelderflowersLeaveto
sugarImmediatelyremovefromtheheatandaddtheelderflowersLeavetoinfusefor15minutesthenstrainthroughafinesieveDiscardtheelderflowersandleavethesyruptocoolTransfertothefridgeandleaveforatleast2hoursbeforechurningThisallowstheproteinspresentinthemixturetohydratefullywhichimprovesthewhippingqualitiesgivingasmoothersorbet
Freezeinanice-creammachineaccordingtothemanufacturerrsquosinstructionsWhenthemixtureisalmostfrozenblitzwithastickblenderfor15ndash30secondsthenreturntothemachineandcontinuetochurnDecantintoanairtightcontainerandfreezeforatleast2hoursbeforeserving
Toservetransferthesorbettothefridgeforabout10minutestosoftenslightlythenscooponeortwoballsofsorbet(orasmanyasyoucanfit)intoeachice-creamconePressthestrawberriesintothesorbetandthendustlavishlywiththesherbet
PineappleWeedJelly
Pineappleweed(Matricariadiscoidea)canbefoundfromMaytoSeptemberandlooksjustlikechamomilebutwithoutthepetalsWhetherornotithasthesamecalmingeffectaschamomileissomethingtobeexploredndashperhapsthisisacalmingandrestorativejellyrecipeItgrowsonwastelandandinplentyofotherplacestooItisoftenresentedbygardenersasitwillcompetewithotherplantsforvaluablespaceandnutrientsandthetaprootswillgripintoanysurfacehowevertoughThisisallthemorereasontofindoutwhosegardenyoumaybeabletopicksomefromwearesuretheywillthankyouforitTheflavourisextraordinaryasitresemblespineapplealmostperfectlyBoththeflowersandleavesareedibleWehavegiventhemeasurementsforthewaterforthejellyingrams
ratherthanmillilitresThisisbecausealthoughmillilitresandgramsareequal(ie100mlweighs100g)inrecipeswhereprecisionisimportantyougetamoreaccurateresultifyouweightheliquidThisiseasytodowithelectronicscalesandinfactwenowweighliquidsasamatterofcourseandrarelyuseameasuringjug
SERVES4220gcastersugar40gpineappleweed13ggelatineleavesCherrySpoom(seehere)orRoastedWhiteChocolateSpoom(seehere)toservePutthesugarinapanwith450gwaterandbringtotheboilstirringtodissolvethesugarRemovefromtheheatandaddthepineappleweedCoverthepanandleavetoinfusefor20minutesStrainthroughmuslinorafinesieve
Soakthegelatineinice-coldwaterforabout10minutesuntilsoftenedRemovefromthewatersqueezingouttheexcessAddthegelatinetothepineappleweedwaterandstiruntilcompletelydissolvedIfthegelatinedoesnotdissolvepourthemixturebackinthepanandplaceoveralowheat
Pourtheliquidintoajellymould(apineapplemouldlooksgoodifyouhaveone)andrefrigerateovernightoruntilset
Servewiththecherryspoomorroastedwhitechocolatespoom
ElderflowerandLavenderMarshmallows
ThelongcountrylaneleadingtoBarleyWoodisgreenandwindingBymid-summerthetreesandhedgesarounditformadenseherbaceoustunnelinpartsAtvariousspotsalongthelanearesoftalmostfurry-lookingelderflowerbusheswaitingtobepickedItrsquosthesamewhenyoustandatthetopgatesoftheWalledGardenand
lookdownthelanethatrunsalongsidethemainorchardHereitisimpossiblenottofeelasenseofcalmandserenityinducedbythedelicatelypungentsmelloflavendergrowingalongtheleft-handwallLikeagroupofplayfulchildrenheadsbobbinginthesunshinethesoftpurpleflowersgreetyoueverymorningwiththeirtranquilscentThesetwoingredientsepitomisesummerattheWalledGardenTheyare
traditionallycelebratedatthesummersolsticeanancientPaganfestivalthatisintendedtomarkthestartofmoreplentifulsuppliesinthegardenItisafestivalofgrowthandlifewhereherbsgatheredthenightbeforethepointatwhichtheywerebelievedtobeattheirmostpowerfularethrownintoabigbonfiretowardoffevilspiritsensuringanotheryearoffertilityinthesurroundinglandSummersolsticeisthereforeanopportunityforustocelebratethegardenatitsmostprosperousandwhatbetterwaytoenjoyitthanbygatheringaroundabonfireandroastingsomemarshmallowsWesometimestoasttheseandsitthemalongsideourchocolatebrownies
(seehere)insteadofthecherryandelderflowersauceToastingmarshmallowsusuallyevokesnostalgicsmilesfromourcustomersTheyarefairlystraightforwardtomakeYouwillneedanelectricwhisk
preferablyafreestandingonefortheamountofwhiskingneededtoachievetherightconsistencybutotherthanthatjustsomepatienceandtheyrsquollbereadybeforeyouknowit
3tbspicingsugar3tbspcornflourrapeseedoilforbrushing40ggelatineleaves750ggranulatedorcastersugar3largeeggwhites
FORELDERFLOWERMARSHMALLOWS
5ndash8largeheadsofelderflowerstalksremoved
FORLAVENDERMARSHMALLOWS
10lavenderspearsinflower1smallredbeetrootfinelygrated(optionalbutrecommendedtomakethemarshmallowspink)
SifttheicingsugarandcornflourintoabowlVerylightlybrusha35cmtimes25cmbakingtraywithrapeseedoilthendustwiththeicingsugarandcornflourShakeanyexcessbackintothebowlandsetaside
Putthegelatineleavesinalargebowlofverycoldwaterandleaveforabout10minutesuntilsoftenedRemovethegelatinefromthewateracoupleofsheetsatatimeandsqueezeoutasmuchexcesswateraspossiblePutallthedrainedsheetsinabowlandpourover185mlhotbutnotboilingwaterStiruntilthegelatinehasfullydissolved
Ifyouaremakingelderflowermarshmallowsaddtheheadsofelderflowertotheliquidthatthegelatinehasbeendissolvedinandleavetoinfusefor10ndash15minutesStraintheliquidthroughafinesieveandcontinuewiththenextstageIfmakinglavendermarshmallowsaddthelavenderandbeetroottothedissolvedliquidandinfusefor10ndash15minutesthenstrain
Putthesugarinalargeheavy-basedpanadd375mlcoldwaterandplaceoveramedium-highheatStiruntilthesugarhasdissolvedPutasugarthermometerinthesyrupandcookthemixturewithoutstirringuntilitregisters122degCRemovefromtheheatandstirinthelavenderorelderflowermixture
PuttheeggwhitesinthebowlofafreestandingelectricmixerandwhiskuntiltheyformstiffpeaksTurnthemixerdowntoalowerspeedandpourinthesugarsyrupinaslowsteadytricklebeatingconstantlyLeavethemixertobeatatamedium-highspeeduntilthemallowmixcoolsandthickensThisusuallytakesabout30minutesitisreadywhenathickribbonisleftonthesurfacewhenthewhiskingattachmentisliftedout
UsingaspatulascoopallthemixintothedustedtrayBesuretoscrapethesidesofthebowlthoroughlysoasnottowasteanyofthisfluffydecadence
sidesofthebowlthoroughlysoasnottowasteanyofthisfluffydecadenceLevelthemixtureandallowtocooltoroomtemperatureCoverwithbakingparchmentandleaveovernighttosetDonotrefrigerate
RemovingthemarshmallowfromthetrayisarguablythehardestpartStartbypeelingthemallowawayfromoneofthenarrowendsofthetrayWhenyougetenoughoffthesidedustinsomeofthereservedcornflourandicingsugarmixthenkeepgentlypeelinganddustinguntilyouhaveagoodcoupleofinchesclearofthetrayAtthispointflipthetrayoverontoaboardandgentlyliftitoffGravityshouldintheorydotherestofthejobIfnotthencontinuepeelinganddustingandturningitontotheboarduntilitcomesloose
Havemorecornflouricingsugarmixreadyandcutthemarshmallowsinto25ndash5cmcubesRolleachmarshmallowinthedustingmixturethoroughlytopreventstickingTheywillkeepstoredinanairtightcontainerforuptoaweek
SpicedGingerBeer
GingerbeerhasbeenbrewedinBritainsincethe1700sThetasteforitspreadacrosstheworldwiththeBritishEmpirebecomingparticularlypopularinAfricaandtheCaribbeanMeanwhilethelsquoBristolglazersquowhichincreasedthestrengthofpotterywasdevelopedlocallyinthe1830sandappliedtoearthenwarecontainersItallowedthisveryBritishtippletobesentfurtherandfurtherafieldThemesmerisingcollectionofphotographsobservationsandfactscontainedinJohnThomsonrsquosVictorianLondonStreetLife(DoverPublicationsInc1994)estimatesthatin1877300000gallonsofgingerbeerweresoldinLondonQuiteoftenitwaspulledthroughthestreetsbyhorsesinacontraptionresemblinganoldpianoanddispensedwithbeerpumphandlesBy1935thereweremorethan3000producersintheUKbutonlyafewremainItreallyisthetasteofBritishsummerPleaseserveinajuginthegardenonatablecoveredwithalinentableclothWehavealsotriedthisrecipewithraspberriesanditwassuperbWeaddedahandfulofraspberrieswiththespicesattheheatingstageandstillputthegingerinmuslinforthefermentationpartItwasaluminousred
MAKESABOUT2LITRES250gcastersugar5ndash8cmpieceoffreshgingerdicedzestandjuiceof1lemon2cloves3juniperberriesfrac12cinnamonstick3blackpeppercorns1tbspGBP(seehere)
Youwillneeda225litrecontainerwithalidplusa25cmsquareofmuslinandapieceofstringfortyingitintoaDickWhittingtonesqueparcelItisimportanttosterilisealltheequipmentincludingthemuslinandstringYoucandothisbypouringboilingwaterovereverything
Putthesugarinapanwithathirdofthegingerplusthelemonzestspicesand250mlwaterBringthismixturetoalightsimmerstirringtodissolve
and250mlwaterBringthismixturetoalightsimmerstirringtodissolvethesugarthenleavetocool
Pour175litresofwaterandthejuiceofthelemonintoyoursterilised2litrecontainer(alargeliddedplasticboxisfine)thelemonwillneutralisethechlorineinthewaterwhichwouldotherwiseaffecttheyeastrsquosproductivityStraininthesugarandwatermixturetietherestofthegingerupinthemuslinwithapieceofstringanddropitinAddtheGBPthencoverandleaveatroomtemperaturefor5daysBesuretoopenthelidbrieflyeverydayinordertoletoutanycarbondioxidethathasbuiltupotherwiseitwillopenofitsownaccord
Strainthemixturethroughafinesieveintoasterilised2litreplasticbottleandputonthetopSavetheGBPandgiveitarinseitwillhavegrown(Ifyoustoreitinthefridgeinasmallsterilecontaineritwillkeepforupto2weeks)After2daysthegingerbeerwillbereadytodrinkalthoughifyoudesireafizzierbrewleaveitforlongerRefrigerationwillhaltanyfurtherfermentation
SummerElder
ThisinitiallysoundsasthoughitmightbeathoroughlysweetaffairbutfearnotThebotanicalsintheginrevelintheirmeetingwiththeblackpepperandraspberrytincturecreatinganalmostsavouryflavourThesorbetweuseisfromMendipMomentswhosepedigreeherdofHolsteincowsgrazesjustoverthehorizonontheSomersetlevelsButthisdrinkwouldworkverywellwithanypre-maderaspberrysorbet
1scoopofMendipMomentsraspberryandelderflowersorbetatroomtemperature
50mlgin(welikeChasegin)25mlelderflowercordialdashofAngosturabittersdashofblackpeppertincture(seeboxbelow)
dashofraspberrytincture(seeboxbelow)3blackpeppercornsfreshlygroundblackpepper
FirstfillatumblerwithicetochillitInamixingglasscombinethesorbetginelderflowercordialbittersandtincturesGiveitastirwithabarspoontobreakupthesorbetbeforeaddingahandfuloficeandplacethetinpartoftheshakerovertheglasstappingwiththepalmofyourhandtosecureAgoodhardshakewillallowtheicetobreakupthesorbetandmakeasmoothtextureddrinkDiscardtheicefromthetumblerandstraintheliquidthroughastrainerandsieveintotheglassFinishwithagenerousgrindofblackpepperandthethreepeppercornsontop
MAKINGTINCTURES
FillajamjaronethirdfullwithyourchoseningredientandcoverwithahighpercentageproofvodkatotwicethedepthoftheingredientsLeavetoinfusefor2weeksandthenstrainintoanothercleanjamjarYouwillbeleftwithanintenseessenceof
yourchoseningredient
RawRhubarbSmash
AsmashissonamedbecausethemintissmashedupduringshakingDuringthemid-nineteenthcenturythesmashbecameasymbolofintemperanceinAmericaandwasafavouritesummerdrinkComparedtoitsolderbrotherthejulepthisdrinkisinthewordsofthecocktailhistorianDavidWondrichlsquoaquickbracerratherthanaslowsipperrsquoBeforethedrinkisshakenwealsomuddletherhubarbWebuildthis
cocktailinajamjarandthenaddcrushediceRawrhubarbhasgoodacidityandweuseitinsteadofthecitrusfruitoftheoriginal
SERVES125mlrhubarbsyrup(seehere)7ndash8cmpieceofrhubarbfinelyslicedapinchofsugar6sprigsofmint50mlbourbonwhiskey
50mlbourbonwhiskeyfinelyslicedrhubarbdustedwithsugartogarnish
PlacethesyruprhubarbandsugarinajamjarandlsquomuddlersquoitbypressingwithapestletoreleasethejuicefromtherhubarbandmixitwiththesugarAddasprigofmintandmuddleagainmoregentlythistimeAddthebourbon2moresprigsofmintandafewicecubesScrewthelidonandshakefor10secondsPackincrushediceand2moremintsprigsuntiltheiceispiledjustabovetherimServeinthejamjargarnishedwithathinsliceofrawrhubarbdustedwithsugarplusagoodsprigofmint
DoubleSloeGinandTonic
WeuseametalVictoriancoffeepottostirchillandservethistippleAfter10goodswirlsclockwisetheoutsidegathersadivinefrostWepourthe
10goodswirlsclockwisetheoutsidegathersadivinefrostWepourthedrinkintoateacupanddeliveritwithapotoficecubesInVictoriantimesservingdrinksinthismannerwasawayofconsumingalcoholintheguiseofafternoonteaThiswasinordernottooffendthebeliefsofthelocalsinfar-flungregionsoftheoldBritishEmpireItisstillageniuswayofdisguisingthoseearly-afternoondrinks
SERVES16raspberries200mltonicwater(weliketheFeverTreebrand)25mlgin(Chaseginisourchoice)25mlsloegin
PuttheraspberriesinaglassreservingonetodropintheteacupAddadropoftonicwaterandlsquomuddlersquountilasmuchjuicehasbeenextractedfromtheraspberriesaspossibleStrainintoasmallteapotandaddtheginsloeginandtherestofthetonicwaterDropin3icecubesandstirwellPourintoacuptoserveanddropintheremainingraspberrytheicecanbeaddedwithtongslikesugarcubes
RecipeList
GoatBaconwithOxTongueNasturtiumsandClarifiedHamBroth
WildMushroomswithSourdoughToastandThymeSticheltonCregravemeFraicircche
WildMushroomandSpeltPressedTerrinewithSpinachandRainbowChard
SwedishKnaumlckebroumldwithCottageCheesePickledBeetrootCarawayBeetrootCrispsandTomThumbLettuce
RoastCrownPrinceSoupwithTandooriSpiceWalnutOilandCrispSageLeaves
Salt-bakedCeleriacPortobelloMushroomandAppleSoupDeep-friedAuberginewithRoseHipSyrup
PearNativeNapeHazelnutCardamomandEwersquosCheeseSaladPreservedDuckLegChorizoButterBeanandConfitTomato
PotStewwithYinYangBeansWoodPigeonBreastswithPersianSpicedBulgarWheat
CucumberAniseedandBlackCabbageChickenMole
VenisonCiderandQuinceStewwithHerbedButterDumplingsFishSoupwithSpicedHeritageTomatoesFennelSeedand
EnglishTruffleOilToastSlow-braisedGoatrsquosLegwithCiderShallotsLentilsandGlazed
CarrotsPheasantKievwithWinterTarragonandStrawberryMyrtle
RareRoastSirloinofBeefwithBordelaiseSauceBlackCabbageandTruffleCauliflower
AlmondPearCardamomandChocolateCakeSeaBuckthornSorbetwithAppleandVanillaPureacuteeToffeeApple
andCaramelLemonBalmBeetrootAppleandCobnutCrumblewithRoastedWhite
ChocolateSpoomSimplesyrupsforsorbetsandspooms
SpoomRoastedWhiteChocolateSpoom
CherrySpoomItalianMeringueLordrsquosLovageAppleFlip
TheOrchardatBarleyWoodSalsifyandOgleShieldGratin
VincentCastellanorsquosVenisonChorizo
THEVALEBELOWTHEgardengraduallyaltersatfirstarippleofmutedcolourthattransformsintoaleafseaofredsandbrownsflecksofcopperandorangeandafaintshimmerofsilverbirchThelarchesstandtallandgreenagainstthisbackdropofcolour
WewatchtheorchardscarefullyastheirfruitcropsintandemCheddarCrossandRibstonPippinleadthewaywhilejack-of-all-tradesMorganSweetfollowsTheciderbarnsmellsjustasitshouldwiththecurativearomasofthesweetspicedapplesTrugsbucketsandanycontainersavailablelinethetimberwallswindfallssetasideTheoakpressperfumedfromseasonsofworkiswoundupasframesandcheeseclothsarefilledwithscrattedapplesThereisarhythmasframeafterframeisstackedlevelledandsecuredbeforethecogsareheavedandtheappletoweriscompressedAtfirstthereisjustatricklethenthejuiceturnstoaflowthatquicklyfillsourcontainersThecolourisgoldenandtheflavoursweetacidiccaramelGlassesarefilledandclinkedsmilesexchangedvarietiesnotedElenaandPhilwilldebateanddiscussthenextblend
Earlyautumnrsquosblood-coloureddamsonsseeoffthelastoftheraspberriesMarkrsquostomatoesbecomeaspicedsoupalongwithfennelandaremetinthebowlbyturmeric-friedlinghorsemackerelandsquidSourdoughbreadistoastedanddrizzledwithEnglishtruffleoilwithflavoursofboskywoodlandandfour-starpetrolFoundbyacaninetrufflehunterinSomersettheseirregularblackobjectstransformasupperForagersdeliverboxesandbasketsoffungiwithtexturesrangingfrompowdertothosethatslipfromyourfingersSomedeliquescebytheeveningRoedeerfindtheirthickwintercoatmutedtoadarkershadeWeclaimabuckortwoandstewsomecutswithciderandquincetobeservedwithplumpbutterdumplingsVinceCastellanocollectstheshouldersandsoontheyhangasbundlesofredchorizoBracesofpheasantsarehungandacoupleofthesered-eyedfirebirdsescapeesfromanearbyshootpeckaroundthegardenThecockisaflashofcolourwhilehispartnerthehenismuch
thegardenThecockisaflashofcolourwhilehispartnerthehenismuchmoresubduedinhersombrebrownfeathers
WoodpigeonsareperchedonthepostssecuringtheraspberriesunwittinglyawaitingameetingwithPersianspicedbulgarwheatThevinehouseisfullofearly-seasonMuscatgrapesThe100-year-oldvinersquoscroponcefilledsilverbowlsinthediningroomofBarleyWoodhouseSimonWillswhogrewupatBarleyWoodtellsusofthepleasureofeatingthissweetfruitduringwartimerationingandofmorningsshootingrabbitswithhismotherrsquosgundogBoyandSpanielwereateamwhenhecrawledsowouldsheAsthehedgesbegintocrophipsandhawssloeginisdebatedintherestaurantandeachcustomerpromisesafinerrecipethanthelast
GoatBaconwithOxTongueNasturtiumsandClarifiedHamBroth
lsquoGoatbaconhellipwhatrsquosthatrsquowehearyouaskMatthewandIaintakethegoatloins(twomusclesthatrunparalleltothespine)anddrycurethemmuchinthesamewaythatordinarybaconismadeTheymixthesaltwithspicessotheresultingbaconisfragrantwithnotesofcuminandfennelthatsitperfectlywiththeflavourofthegoat(seetherecipeonhere)ThetextureisidenticaltotraditionalbaconyettheflavourispleasinglydifferentThisbaconworkswellalongsideoneofourfavouritepiecesofoffaltongueTongueusedtobeverypopularbuthassincefallenoutoffashionandisrarelyseenonrestaurantmenusWethinkthisisashameItischeapeasytocookveryversatileandoneofthemostoverlookedmusclesSeehereforOx