the drovers' road and osmotherley - a circular walk from ... · in 1069, william the conqueror...

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11 10 10 T his picturesque walk utilises an old drovers’ road and a section of the Cleveland Way. It is filled with historical interest and the views across the Vale of Mowbray and the Cleveland Hills are magnificent. Our walk begins from the Sheepwash car park, a popular picnic spot whose name most likely originates from the fact that shepherds once brought their flocks down from the moors to wash them at the ford crossing Cod Beck. Although it is endowed with the more modest title, Cod Beck is actually classified as a river. Its name is a derivative of 'Cold Beck' but, some authorities say, it comes from the Celtic word 'Coed', meaning woody. The beck flows into the Cod Beck Reservoir before continuing on to merge with the river Swale at Topcliffe. Leaving Sheepwash we join a broad track known as the Hambleton Drove Road. This ancient track traverses the plateau of the THE DROVERS’ ROAD and OSMOTHERLEY Hambleton Hills from Swainby to Oldstead. Opinions differ as to its origin, but it was certainly in use long before the Romans arrived and is one of the oldest roads in England. Artefacts of the Bronze Age and the Neolithic period have been discovered along its course. In 1069, William the Conqueror is reputed to have used the road during his Harrying of the North. It had royal protection by 1246 and was described as Regalis Via or the King’s Way in a document in the Rievaulx Chartulary. The drove road saw the most activity during the eighteenth century, when Scottish drovers used it to take their cattle to the markets of Malton, York and as far south as London. Herds of between 200 and 300 cattle were driven along this road. The drovers travelled ten to fifteen miles (16–24km) each day and the columns of animals often stretched for over two miles (3km). There were regular stopping places along the route, known as stances. These from Cod Beck Reservoir 7¼ miles (11.7km) usually had an inn and essential grazing for the cattle. Chequers was one of these stances. In those days it was the Chequers Inn and the original sign can be seen on the wall outside inscribed with the words ‘Be not in haste, Step in and taste, Ale tomorrow for nothing’. One gullible traveller complied with this invitation and remained at the inn until the following day with great expectations. Unfortunately, his joy ended abruptly when the landlord informed him that his tomorrow had yet to come! From Chequers we descend into the pleasant little valley of Oakdale. The reservoirs originally supplied water to Northallerton, but now they are used solely for recreation and also attract a wide variety of wildlife. Leaving Oakdale we follow the Cleveland Way to Osmotherley. This elegant village, known locally as ‘Ossy’, is located on the western fringe of the North York Moors. It is recorded in the Domesday Book as ‘Asmundrelac’, which means ‘Asmund’s clearing’. Tradition suggests that the village was named after an infant Northumbrian prince called Oswy, who suffered a tragic death. His grief-stricken mother died soon after and they were buried together, resulting in the name ‘Oswy-by-his-mother-lay’ – Osmotherley. Beside the market cross is the stone barter table on which John Wesley stood to preach during his first visit in 1745. He visited Osmotherley many times and one of the first Methodist chapels was built here in 1754. We continue along the Cleveland Way and within a few minutes of joining Rueberry Lane there are superb views over the Vale of Mowbray to the Pennine hills. The Shrine of Our Lady of Mount Grace, better known as Lady Chapel, lies just off this lane. The chapel was first licensed for Mass in 1397, one year before Mount Grace Priory was founded. It is thought that the monks worshipped here while their priory was being built at the foot of the hill. The chapel later became a monk’s hermitage and Catherine of Aragon, first wife of Henry VIII, was one of its benefactors. After a steep climb to Beacon Hill another splendid panorama unfolds: to the north, the dramatic escarpment of the Cleveland Hills; to the east the high moors of Bilsdale; and the bulk of Black Hambleton dominates the southern skyline. The scenery remains uplifting as we descend to Scarth Nick. During the last Ice Age, which ended about 11,000 years ago, the ice sheets failed to cover the summits of the North York Moors. However, glaciers flowed on either side of the higher land masses and also crept into Scugdale. As the ice melted a glacial lake formed. The lake, about 400 feet (122m) deep and 800 feet (244m) above sea level, overflowed at Scarth Nick cutting a distinct V-shaped valley, a landmark which is visible for many miles to the north. Start/Parking: Sheepwash car park near Cod Beck Reservoir, 2 miles (3.2km) north-east of Osmotherley. Location: Osmotherley is situated just off the A19 road, 12 miles (19.4km) north of Thirsk. Grid Ref: SE 469 993. Postcode: nearest, Quarry Lane – DL6 3AL. Distance: 7¼ miles (11.7km) circular. Allow 3¼ hrs walking time. Total Ascent: 1037 feet (316m) Maximum Elevation: 981 feet (299m). OS Maps: Explorer OL26 (1:25,000) North York Moors, Western Area or Landranger 99 and 100 (1:50,000). Refreshments: Osmotherley: The Golden Lion, the Queen Catherine Hotel and the Three Tuns. Public Toilets: Osmotherley: Situated at the side of the Church Hall. Other: Bus service, Post Office situated in the Village Hall, fish and chip shop, Youth Hostel.

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1110

10

This picturesque walk utilises an old drovers’ road and a section of the Cleveland Way. It is fi lled with

historical interest and the views across the Vale of Mowbray and the Cleveland Hills are magnifi cent.

Our walk begins from the Sheepwash car park, a popular picnic spot whose name most likely originates from the fact that shepherds once brought their fl ocks down from the moors to wash them at the ford crossing Cod Beck. Although it is endowed with the more modest title, Cod Beck is actually classifi ed as a river. Its name is a derivative of 'Cold Beck' but, some authorities say, it comes from the Celtic word 'Coed', meaning woody. The beck fl ows into the Cod Beck Reservoir before continuing on to merge with the river Swale at Topcliffe.

Leaving Sheepwash we join a broad track known as the Hambleton Drove Road. This ancient track traverses the plateau of the

THE DROVERS’ ROAD

and OSMOTHERLEY

Hamble ton Hills from Swainby to Oldstead. Opinions differ as to its origin, but it was certainly in use long before the Romans arrived and is one of the oldest roads in England. Artefacts of the Bronze Age and the Neolithic period have been discovered along its course. In 1069, William the Conqueror is reputed to have used the road during his Harry ing of the North. It had royal protection by 1246 and was described as Regalis Via or the King’s Way in a document in the Rievaulx Chartulary.

The drove road saw the most activity during the eighteenth century, when Scottish drovers used it to take their cattle to the markets of Malton, York and as far south as London. Herds of between 200 and 300 cattle were driven along this road. The drovers travelled ten to fi fteen miles (16–24km) each day and the columns of animals often stretched for over two miles (3km). There were regular stopping places along the route, known as stances. These

from Cod Beck Reservoir 7¼ miles (11.7km)

usually had an inn and essential grazing for the cattle. Chequers was one of these stances. In those days it was the Chequers Inn and the original sign can be seen on the wall outside inscribed with the words ‘Be not in haste, Step in and taste, Ale tomorrow for nothing’. One gullible traveller complied with this invitation and remained at the inn until the following day with great expectations. Unfortunately, his joy ended abruptly when the landlord informed him that his tomorrow had yet to come!

From Chequers we descend into the pleasant little valley of Oakdale. The reservoirs originally supplied water to Northallerton, but now they are used solely for recreation and also attract a wide variety of wildlife. Leaving Oakdale we follow the Cleveland Way to Osmotherley.

This elegant village, known locally as ‘Ossy’, is located on the western fringe of the North York Moors. It is recorded in the Domesday Book as ‘Asmundrelac’, which means ‘Asmund’s clearing’. Tradition suggests that the village was named after an infant Northumbrian prince called Oswy, who suffered a tragic death. His grief-stricken mother died soon after and they were buried together, resulting in the name ‘Oswy-by-his-mother-lay’ – Osmotherley.

Beside the market cross is the stone barter table on which John Wesley stood to preach during his fi rst visit in 1745. He visited Osmotherley many times and one of the fi rst Methodist chapels was built here in 1754.

We continue along the Cleveland Way and within a few minutes of joining Rueberry Lane there are superb views over the Vale of Mowbray to the Pennine hills.

The Shrine of Our Lady of Mount Grace, better known as Lady Chapel, lies just off this lane. The chapel was fi rst licensed for Mass in 1397, one year before Mount Grace Priory was founded. It is thought that the monks worshipped here while their priory was being built at the foot of the hill. The chapel later became a monk’s hermitage and Catherine of Aragon, fi rst wife of Henry VIII, was one of its benefactors.

After a steep climb to Beacon Hill another splendid panorama unfolds: to the north, the dramatic escarpment of the Cleveland Hills; to the east the high moors of Bilsdale; and the bulk of Black Hambleton dominates the southern skyline.

The scenery remains uplifting as we descend to Scarth Nick. During the last Ice Age, which ended about 11,000 years ago, the ice sheets failed to cover the summits of the North York Moors. However, glaciers fl owed on either side of the higher land masses and also crept into Scugdale. As the ice melted a glacial lake formed. The lake, about 400 feet (122m) deep and 800 feet (244m) above sea level, over fl owed at Scarth Nick cutting a distinct V-shaped valley, a landmark which is visible for many miles to the north.

Start/Parking: Sheepwash car park near Cod Beck Reservoir, 2 miles (3.2km) north-east of Osmotherley.

Location: Osmotherley is situated just off the A19 road, 12 miles (19.4km) north of Thirsk.

Grid Ref: SE 469 993. Postcode: nearest, Quarry Lane – DL6 3AL.

Distance: 7¼ miles (11.7km) circular. Allow 3¼ hrs walking time.

Total Ascent: 1037 feet (316m) Maximum Elevation: 981 feet (299m).

OS Maps: Explorer OL26 (1:25,000) North York Moors, Western Area or Landranger 99 and 100 (1:50,000).

Refreshments: Osmotherley: The Golden Lion, the Queen Catherine Hotel and the Three Tuns.

Public Toilets: Osmotherley: Situated at the side of the Church Hall.

Other: Bus service, Post Offi ce situated in the Village Hall, fi sh and chip shop, Youth Hostel.

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910

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SCARTH WOODMOOR

Pam

perdale Ridge

Cod Beck R

eservoir

ArncliffeWood

ScarthWood

SouthWood

Mount GraceWood

BeaconHill

FordFB

WT &TV Station

SiddleFarm

ChapelwoodFarm

CattleGrid

CattleGrid

WhiteHouseFarm

MiddlestyeHouse

Solomon'sTemple

Chequers

Sheepwash

OSMOTHERLEYOSMOTHERLEYOSMOTHERLEY

Sw

ines

tye

Hill

Hig

h L

ane

Gre

en L

ane Solomon's Lane

OAKDALE

Bad Lane

Cle

vela

nd W

ay

Cle

vela

nd W

ay

Big Wood

Slape Stones Beck

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PP

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BS

BS

NORTHALLERTON

HA

WN

BY

SW

AIN

BY

FB

FB

(remains of)

Mount GracePriory

Tumulus

Cod Beck

Ruebury Lane

Lady Chapel

RueburyHill

Oakdale Beck

Cod

Bec

k

981' (299m)

Cairn/HilltopBuildingRuinWoodlandMiles into WalkBoundary StoneViewpointCar Park (Pay)Other Parking

P

P

Route

River/Stream

Crag/Scar

A or B Road

Minor Road

Unfenced Road

Farm Road orCart Track

© Crown Copyright - 2016 - OS 100016545© S. I. Robinson - 2016

BS

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GR: 469 993 From the car park turn right and follow the road. At a sharp left bend leave the road via a rough track on the right and cross the stream via the footbridge. Continue along the

track climbing up onto the moor and follow it to the main road.

GR: 474 973 At the road junction bear left and continue along the road passing the former Chequers Inn.

GR: 476 969 Turn right (SP Public Footpath) and leave the road. Follow a clear track descending via a gate into Oakdale.

GR: 469 963 Pass to the left of Oakdale House, turn right and continue on a good track. Go through a gate beside the cattle grid and follow an enclosed track uphill returning to the main road.

GR: 465 968 Turn left and follow the road downhill for about 50 yards (45m). Turn right (SP Cleveland Way - Osmotherley) and follow a stone track leading uphill to a signpost.

GR: 465 970 Go through a gap stile on the left (SP Cleveland Way). Follow the track towards White House Farm. Bear right at a signpost (SP Cleveland Way) and head to the far right corner of

the fi eld. Descend alongside the right boundary via two gates to a footbridge.

GR: 461 972 Cross the footbridge and follow a fenced path, climbing steeply through the wood. Go through a gate and continue on an enclosed track leading onto a back-street at Osmotherley.

GR: 457 972 Cross the street and follow a narrow passage between the cottages which leads into the village centre. Turn right and follow the road uphill towards Swainby.

GR: 457 976 Turn left onto Ruebury Lane (SP Cleveland Way - Scarth Nick). Follow this lane to Chapelwood Farm. (If you wish to visit Lady Chapel it lies just off this lane).

GR: 452 980 Go through the gate (SP Cleveland Way) and follow left hedge through the fi eld. Continue through two more gates and into Arncliffe Woods.

GR: 454 986 A few yards from the gate take the right fork (SP Cleveland Way) and begin a long steepish climb through the wood. The path levels out when it reaches the boundary wall. Continue

along the wall to the TV signal station.

GR: 459 994 Continue through two gates passing the signal station. Follow the wall round to a boundary gate. Go through the gate, turn left and go through a second gate. Now follow a clear

path descending through the heather.

GR: 471 003 Turn right (SP Public Bridleway) leaving the Cleveland Way and descend to the main road. Turn right and follow the road back to the Sheepwash car park.

The Drovers’ Road and Osmotherley

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MOUNT GRACE PRIORY

The Priory, whose more illustrious title is ‘The House of the Assumption of the Most Blessed Virgin and Saint Nicholas of Mount Grace at Ingleby’, was founded in 1398 by Thomas de Holand, the nephew of Richard II. Mount Grace was a Carthusian monastery, this order observed a vow of silence and lived in small individual cells where they prayed, studied and slept. Each cell opened into a small enclosed garden. The monks received their meals through a small hatchway in the wall, which was angled so that they could not see the person who had brought them the meal. Apart from daily worship in the priory church and silent communal meals on Sundays and feast days, the monks adhered to this hermit-like seclusion. One of the cells has been reconstructed. Together with a restored herb plot these help to provide a glimpse into the lives of the medieval occupants.

The priory is not passed during the walk, but it can be reached from point 10. Turn left and descend via 3 gates into Chapel Wood. Turn right and follow a clear path via 2 gates to reach the priory. Afterwards return via the outward route to point 10. This detour will add approximately 1¼ miles (2km) to the walk. NB: Dogs are not allowed into the priory.