Raising & Marketing QuailRaising Button Quail, HatchingQuail Eggs, Brooding Chicks

In The Magazine For Quail Breeders with Jodi McDonald

Bracken Ridge Ranch

Thursday, October 13, 2011

(Editors' note: This article by expert quail breeder and author, Jodi McDonald, is an example of the detailed and authoritative information you'll find in each issue of the

Game Bird Breeders Gazette -- the magazine for raising quail -- on how to raise, market, and ship quail, quail eggs, and chicks. Quail are easy to keep and breed as long as you take care of their basic care requirements. Thousands of quail and quail eggs are offered for sale in the magazine all year long from

reputable and reliable breeders. In addition to information on raising quail, in the magazine you'll find amazing close-up pictures of the different breeds or types of quail, pens, incubators, brooders, etc. All of the popular species and breeds of quail are covered in the magazine, including Gambel's quail (on Gazette cover at right), bobwhite quail, coturnix quail, Scaled Quail, California Valley quail, Mearns quail, Benson, Gambel's Quail, button quail and more. The upcoming issue of the Game Bird Gazette has a record number of listings for quail and quail eggs for sale. You can subscribe to the magazine and receive your first copy right away using our fast and secure online subscription order page.

We have been raising various types of quail and other birds for the past twenty years. About three years ago, we decided to retire and find some much need rest. Little did we know that once you have had the experience of sharing life with the Button Quail and other birds, you can never be happy doing anything else.

After only six months of not being tied down by feathered friends, we were given an

elderly pair of Button Quail. The owners of the quail were moving and couldn't take them across country with them. Shortly after the pair of buttons came to live with us, we lost the hen quail. We searched high and low to find a new companion for the lonely male. Our usual sources had no button quail for sale, so we put an ad in the newspaper. We got a response from a breeder who had several of them that she wanted to place in a good home. So instead of one, we adopted nine quail! Pretty soon we decided to incubate a few

quail eggs, and before we knew it, we had once again taken the bait, hook line and sinker. Today, we are once again raising button quail, a few ringneck pheasants, chukar, turkeys, several breeds of chickens, and a barnyard assortment of ducks. All just goes to prove, you can never retire from something you really love.

At Bracken Ranch (named for the abundant Bracken Fern that grow here), we are a small "Mom and Pop" operation, and run our ranch more for enjoyment than for profit. There is no thrill in life

greater than witnessing a new quail chick come into this world. It never becomes mundane or routine with us.

The Button are delightful little quail that are most often used as micro janitors in the bottoms of aviaries, where they do a good job of cleaning up seeds that other birds leave behind. These quail are also used widely by commercial butterfly breeders and in green houses, where they help keep insect and spider populations under control.

In their natural habitat, the quail are found in China, but have found their way into the homes and

hearts of people in most every country in the world.

The average size of the male button quail is about 4 1/2 inches and the female is slightly larger at about 5 inches. In standard colors, the male is more colorful than the female and has a black and white bib that runs under the chin. In the newer mutated colors, it is often more difficult to distinguish the male from the female by color in these quail. In these cases, it is best to sex the quail by checking the vent spacing and being aware that the hens

are slightly larger and plumper. The males can also be distinguished by listening for their little calls of pee pee pew.

Button quail are easy keepers and prolific breeders if their basic requirements are met. Best results are achieved when kept in solitary pairs, but they are often kept in trios of one male to two hens, or colony bred with several hens and males run together. If more than one male quail is kept in a pen, it is important to know that even though they are tiny, they are mighty. The males, and sometimes the female quail, can be aggressive toward one another. They are territorial, and resist other quail being in their space. Serious fights can be avoided, however, if the pen is large enough, and there are sufficient hiding places. Here at the ranch, we prefer to keep our breeding adult quail in isolated pairs to avoid conflict and to insure fertilization of the quail eggs. It's easier for one male to concentrate on one female.

We keep the quail in converted chinchilla breeding cages. Each apartment is roughly 20 inches deep by 14 inches wide and 12 inches tall. Each bank of cages contain seven individual apartments, and we stack the banks four tiers high, so each section houses twenty-eight pairs of quail quite comfortably. Each apartment has a pull out tray in which we place about a half inch of sand and a couple of handfuls of pine shavings. Because button quail are quite active, it is not uncommon for them to track through their droppings. If they are not kept on clean bedding, a serious problem can arise when the droppings become encrusted on their tiny feet and form into large balls at the ends of their toes. By using the sand and shavings combination, the quail remain clean and healthy.

When given the proper conditions, button quail will incubate their own eggs. If you would like to let the hens do their own incubating, you must provide them with privacy and

security. This can easily be done by placing tiny shelter on the floor of their pen. A fabricated wooden shelter, a small hollow branch, or low growing shrubs work fine. We prefer to pull the eggs and incubate any that are left over from our egg sales.We gather the button quail eggs twice a day, more often in extreme weather conditions. The eggs are then placed in automatic turners for a day or so, until they are shipped or placed in the incubators.

Since the quail eggs are so delicate, we ship only on Monday, Tuesday and Wednesday, to insure that they will not get hung up in the post office over the weekend. For shipping quail eggs, we carefully place the eggs in cardboard egg trays and cover them with shavings so that they won't jar loose during shipping. The trays are then placed in cardboard shipping boxes with foam peanuts, and taken to the post office where they are shipped out priority mail which has a guaranteed 3 day delivery time. We have had excellent cooperation from the post office, and in all of our quail egg shipments last year, we had only one reported bad delivery.

Once the quail eggs arrive at their destination, we recommend that they be taken out of their packaging and allowed to sit at room temperature for a couple of hours before being placed in the incubator. Incubation for button quail takes roughly 16 days, although we have had reports of a little slower hatch of up to 18 days. We suspect that is due to the varied temperatures and movement during transportation, or perhaps due to the variance in incubator temperatures, humidity, and elevation changes. At any rate, patience in waiting a few extra days has paid off more often than not. Ideal incubation takes place at a steady 99.5 to 99.9 degrees F. with a relative humidity of 60% (wet bulb reading of 86º F).

A good hatch depends on how well you know your incubator. For the first 14 days the button quail eggs should be turned (better described as being rotated from one side to the other) at least twice a day. Three or four times a day is better. If you have an automatic turner in your incubator, it will handle that for you. Most incubators rotate the eggs every four hours, but that may

vary. On the fourteenth day, the eggs should be removed from their racks and placed in the hatching tray. At this point, it is best to no longer turn them, because the quail chick is positioning itself to first pip (break a tiny hole in the shell) then emerge. For incubating quail eggs, we have had great success with the Sportsman GQF 1202 models.

To prevent straddle leg, common in all types of newly hatched chicks, we line the bottom of our hatching trays and our brooders with a rubberized non skid shelf liner that is commonly used in motor homes (available in most stores that sell shelf liners). We

have found that it provides very secure footing. It is washable and easily sanitized. Because button quail are so tiny when they are hatched (about the size of a humble bee, and about as active), we place the newly hatched quail chicks in 15 gallon aquariums for the first five days. For bedding, we use only the nonskid liner.

For small home use, warmth can easily be provided by placing two red clay bricks on end inside the aquarium, and then placing a 60 watt lamp (the clip on kind with the aluminum reflectors) so that it rests on top of the bricks. The heat from the bulb radiates down the bricks and the tiny button quail chicks seem to really enjoy snuggling up to them. The top of the aquarium should be partially covered to maintain a temperature of about 85 to 90º the first week. Don't guess, use a thermometer, because newly hatched quail chicks don't provide their own body heat. There are also commercial brooders available, but if you use them, be sure to place window screen over the side openings, and remove the floor grate as baby button quail have been known to squeeze though 1/2 inch openings without any problem. Also a word of caution. Brooders, which ever type you

choose, should have some type of screen cover. The wings of these quail develop very fast, and in no time at all they tend to fly up, and often out of their brooders. If this happens and you don't notice, there is a good chance that they will quickly become cold and die. It is a heart breaking story we hear time and time again. Quail With Jodi McDonald, Page 2

The Button QuailButton quail are easy keepers and prolific breeders, if their basic requirements are met. These little Quail are the most charming little game birds, and well suited to almost any bird collection.

Today, the Button Quail buyer now has more than 15 different color varieties to choose from. Here is a list of some of the different varieties:

The Blueface The Cinnamon The Fawn The Golden Pearl The Redbreasted The Silver The Splashed-Button The White Button. This variety should be solid white with no other coloring.

Button Quail can sometimes be found in pet stores. I would be very careful about purchasing these Quail. Ask for records of where they came from, if they have no records, I would not purchase them. Purchasing Button Quail from a pet store could result in Quail that are highly inbred. I would recommend purchasing them from a Button Quail breeder.

Since Button Quail are so small and cute, some people will purchase them to raise in their homes as pets. Even though these little quail can be quite hyper and will need a couple of hiding places because buttons are easily scared. With proper care, time and effort they can become very tame and make great little pets.

The miniature button quail can also be kept in fish tanks. Because button quail are quite active, it is not uncommon for them to track through their droppings. So you should keep some type of slip proof covering or litter on the floor. Something that is easy to maintain.

Buttons also need grit and minerals like many birds to help their digestion and stay healthy.

Button quail can be scrappy amongst themselves. You will have to keep a close eye on this, because the picking can result in injury or death. Providing hiding places in their cages can help prevent this situation. If picking would become a problem separation or debeaking may be required.

One important thing to keep in mind, when keeping Button Quail in your home as pets. The Button Quail life span is normally 4 to 5 years. This life span can be reduced quite dramatically if you don't follow a couple rules.

When raising Quail, two things have to come together for them to lay eggs. If they are receiving proper food and care.

1. The amount of light hours they receive per day. 2. The right temperature.

So if you are raising the Button Quail in your home, they are going to receive this right combination all year round. If not addressed your females will then lay eggs all year. Laying eggs does take a lot out of them. So my advice would be to give them atleast a 3 month break per year.

You do this by cutting down on the amount of light they receive. This is best done as a gradual process. You are the only one who really knows the combination of daylight hours and electric light hours that are accumulated in your home.

Whatever this amount may be, you will need to gradually reduce the amount your Quail are receiving by covering them.

Systematically reduce the hours of light they are receiving on a daily basis, until they are down to no more than 8 hours per day. Then keep them at that amount of light for at least 3 months for rejuvenation. Once the 3 month rest period is over, just reverse the process. Doing this will help their productivity and help them live a full life. If you never want them laying eggs, just cover them after 8 hours of light everyday.

When raising Button Quail for reproduction, it is possible that they would hatch their own eggs. This would depend on the proper type of housing and nesting area provided. But I believe most breeders will incubate.

When pairing your breeders to reproduce. There are just some variables that have to come together that you can't see. Things like compatible and fertile breeders. Their diet is also very important. This is the one thing you do have complete control over. So make sure your breeder Button Quail are receiving a proper breeder diet.

If you do use an incubator, make sure to follow all proper incubation procedures. Button Quail should hatch in about 16 days, however you can wait until day 22, by then they would have hatched if they were going to.

Button quail are about the size of a large Easter chicken chick at adult size. .

ButtonquailFrom Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

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Buttonquail

Black-breasted Button-quail (Turnix

melanogaster)

Scientific classification

Kingdom: Animalia

Phylum: Chordata

Class: Aves

Order: Charadriiformes

Family:Turnicidae

GR Gray, 1840

Genera

TurnixOrtyxelos

Distribution of the Buttonquails.

Buttonquail or hemipodes are members of a small family of birds, Turnicidae, which resemble, but are unrelated to, the quails of Phasianidae. They inhabit warm grasslands in Asia, Africa, Europe, and Australia. There are 16 species in two genera, with most species being found in the genus Turnix and only one being found in the genus Ortyxelos.

Buttonquails are small, drab, running birds, which avoid flying. The female is the more brightly coloured of the sexes, and initiates courtship. Unusually, the buttonquails are polyandrous, with the females circulating among several males and expelling rival females from her territory. Both sexes cooperate in building a nest in the earth, but only the male incubates the eggs and tends the young. The eggs hatch after an incubation period of 12 or 13 days, and the young are able to fly within two weeks of hatching.[1]

Contents[hide]

1 Taxonomy 2 Description 3 Species 4 References 5 External links

[edit] TaxonomyButtonquail were traditionally placed in Gruiformes or Galliformes (the crane and pheasant orders). The Sibley-Ahlquist taxonomy elevated them to ordinal status as the Turniciformes and basal to other Neoaves either because their accelerated rate of molecular evolution exceeded the limits of sensitivity of DNA-DNA hybridization or because the authors did not perform the appropriate pairwise comparisons or both. Morphological, DNA-DNA hybridization and sequence data indicate that turnicids correctly belong to the shorebirds (Charadriiformes).[2][3][4] They seem to be an ancient group among these, as indicated by the buttonquail-like Early Oligocene fossil Turnipax and the collected molecular data.[4]

[edit] DescriptionThe buttonquails are a group of small terrestrial birds. The smallest species is the Quail-plover, the only species in the genus Ortyxelos, which is 10 cm (3.9 in) in length and weighs only 20 g (0.71 oz). The buttonquails in the genus Turnix range from 12–23 cm (4.7–9.1 in) in length and weigh between 30–130 g (1.1–4.6 oz). They superficially resemble the true quails of the genus Coturnix, but differ from them in lacking a hind toe and a crop. The females of this family also possess a unique vocal organ created by an enlarged trachea and inflatable bulb in the oesophagus, which they use to produce a booming call.

[edit] SpeciesFamily: Turnicidae

Genus: Ortyxeloso Quail-plover , Ortyxelos meiffrenii

Genus: Turnixo Small Buttonquail , Turnix sylvaticus

Tawitawi Small Buttonquail, Turnix sylvaticus suluensis (extinct: mid-20th century) Andalusian Hemipode, Turnix sylvaticus sylvaticus (possibly extinct: late 20th century?)

o Worcester's Buttonquail , Turnix worcesterio Sumba Buttonquail , Turnix everetti

o Black-rumped Buttonquail , Turnix hottentottuso Yellow-legged Buttonquail , Turnix tankio Barred Buttonquail , Turnix suscitatoro Madagascar Buttonquail , Turnix nigricolliso Spotted Buttonquail , Turnix ocellatuso Black-breasted Buttonquail , Turnix melanogastero Painted Buttonquail , Turnix varius

New Caledonia (Painted) Buttonquail, Turnix (varius) novaecaledoniae (extinct: early 20th century)

o Chestnut-backed Buttonquail , Turnix castanotuso Red-chested Buttonquail , Turnix pyrrhothoraxo Red-backed Buttonquail , Turnix maculosuso Little Buttonquail , Turnix veloxo Buff-breasted Buttonquail , Turnix olivei

Barred Buttonquail (Turnix suscitator)

Small Buttonquail (Turnix sylvatica)

Painted Buttonquail (Turnix varia)

Red-chested Buttonquail (Turnix pyrrhothorax)

Interested in raising quail or other game birds? First you will need a cage.

A good general guideline is to have two square feet allotted for every adult bird. My cages are made of scrap lumber and chicken wire. I used small hogrings to attach the wire to the wood. Construction does not have to be overly robust, as walls made of wire won't encounter many shear forces from the wind, and need only keep small birds inside. The bottom half of the cage, however, should be made sturdy enough to prevent animals such as skunks, cats, or dogs from breaking in. It is also wise to extend the chicken wire a foot into the ground so that animals cannot tunnel in or out.

Your cage will also become a magnet for neighborhood cooper's hawks (link), which are fond of killing the birds by sending the birds into a panic and then grabbing their heads as they poke them out of the wire openings. I solved this problem by lining the lower 8 inches of the cages with thin boards. To make construction easier, my first cage was only six feet tall. With the exception of coturnix quail, however, all the quail varieties like flying to high perches at night, and every additional foot of height is thus greatly appreciated. My largest cage is eight feet wide, fourteen feet long, and eight feet high.

General guidelines

1. Commerical hatcheries typically have a ratio of one male to 3 or more females. This is done to minimize territorial disputes between aggressive males, and is adequate for fertility purposes.

2. Give your birds a place where they can have shelter from the rain and shade from the hot sun. Also, cover the food and the water so that they don't get drenched in downpours

3. Purina "Game Bird Chow" comes in different varieties depending on the bird's stage in life. This is a good feed, but expensive. I have found Turkey Starters and Growers to be adequate. I also mix in chicken scratch for adult birds. They particularly seem to like milo and wheat.

4. Birds raised on processed feeds love fresh fruit, vegetables, and GREENS.

5. Keep the cage clean and put the feed in a place where rats can't get to them. Cockroaches can be a problem if the cage isn't clean.

Hatching and Raising Chicks

Hatching and raising baby quail can be fun but is not for the faint of heart. The little birds are very delicate and need outside warmth. Using a normal light bulb as a brooding lamp is often a problem, because it induces the chicks to pick at each other and even cannibalize each other (!). I

solved this by spraypainting the lightbulbs blue. You can always buy commercial brooders but they're rather expensive, and how serious are you about all this anyway?

It's best to raise the birds in brooding cages until they're large enough to go outdoors. This is usually around 4 weeks or so.

Feeding quail is one of the most important aspects of raising quail, besides housing quail. Knowing what

to feed your quail and how to feed the quail is essential for keeping your quail healthy. In this quail

husbandry guide, we'll discuss methods of feeding quail; what to feed your quail; how much to feed quail;

and what constitutes healthy quail feed ingredients.

One of the most basic elements to understand regarding the practice of feeding quail is that you should

not attempt to supplement mixed quail feed too heavily. Commercially mixed quail feed, available from

your local poultry feed store, are carefully formulated to provide your quail with the right mix of nutrients

and vitamins to keep your quail healthy. Supplementing quail feed with grains, scratch and other food

items may change the amount of nutrients your quail are eating.

Before we begin teaching you how to feed quail, you need to know the reasons for which you are raising

quail. Quail are fed differently depending upon their purpose. For example, quail breeds raised for meat

and consumption are fed quite differently from quail that are being raised for quail breeding or quail eggs.

Each type of quail require different types of feed depending largely upon their purpose to the quail farmer.

Care, Feeding and Housing of Chinese Blue Breasted Quail

( also known as: Button Quail)Fortunately, Button Quail ( Chinese Blue Breasted Quail) are not too particular about their housing, and if a few minor needs are met, they adapt comfortably to nearly any enclosure.

Temperature:Since they are originally from the sub-tropical climates of S.E. China, their body structure does not lend well to cold outdoor climates. They are anatomically built to travel with

their bodies close to the ground for camouflage purposes. In cold wet climates their body structure works against them. Since cold air is heavier than warm air, the air closest to the ground is always the coldest.

Although the quail you buy are captive bred, their anatomy has not changed over they years. They are still the smallest quail in the world.

In their natural environment they are exposed to temperatures that average around 70 degrees F. (21.1 C) A comfortable temperature for domestically bred Chinese Blue Breasted Quail is 85 degrees F (29.4 C) to 45 degrees F (7.2 C) They can sustain higher and lower temperatures for short periods of time, but it is important to realize that temperatures outside their comfort range force them to waste valuable energy trying to maintain a comfortable body temperature. For breeding birds, especially hens, long term exposure to cooler temperatures can be fatal.

Pairs Versus Colony Housing:The most important factor in choosing proper housing for your quail is understanding their MONOGAMOUS behavior. Unlike other types of quail, they do not live in family groups (coveys) in the wild. Instead, they pair off 1 male and 1 female and live in isolated pairs. If forced to live in colony conditions (more than 1 pair per cage) territorial disputes will eventually erupt into a feather pulling battle. The fight can become serious enough to draw blood, and may eventually lead to a fatality. Both hens and males defend their territory with equal tenacity.

Type of Housing: What Cage is best?

Because they are small and terrestrial, (ground dwellers) they can easily adapt to most types of commercial bird

cages. (We sell one that we especially designed with their comfort and well being in mind. It is also designed for easy maintenance. Our cages are listed in the index of our home page.

When choosing a cage for each pair, look for one that has no less that 1 square foot of floor space. Long, low narrow cages are ideal. The cage should have bars or welded wire with spacing of no more than 1/2 inch . An ideal height for their cage is no more than 12 to 14 inches. Since Chinese Blue Breasted Quail have a "sudden flight factor" when frightened , shorter cages prevent them from gaining enough momentum to violently fly into the top of the cage. Although they may still fly upward in the shorter cage when frightened, they generally cannot hit the inside top of it with enough force to cause serious damage.

When first placing a pair in a new cage it is sometimes a good idea to place a piece of cardboard or other solid object on top of their cage until they are used to their new habitat. Since they have a limited short distance sight range, they tend not to attempt to fly upward if they do not have a clear view of the area above them.

Because of their small delicate feet, Chinese Blue Breasted Quail require solid flooring. They do not do well on cages with wire bottoms. Although cages with wire inserts across the bottom make it easier for owners to maintain, they are uncomfortable for the quail.

In addition to bird cages, there are other manufactured cages that may work, such as rodent or rabbit cages.

Containers made from plastic or glass, such as the type

designed for fish or reptiles are not recommended for adult quail. These solid wall containers lack proper ventilation and were never designed for birds. Humidity from droppings and dribbled water can quickly build in them creating an environment in which ammonia and heat are produced. This can quickly cause an environment that breeds a multitude of toxic and bacterial micro-organisms.

Solid plastic and glass containers also filter out almost all of the short U.V. rays which are necessary for the birds well being.

Your cage should have wire on all four sides and on the top, but should have a solid bottom. This allows for good air exchange which will help keep the bedding dryer and provide a healthier environment for your quail.

Food and Water Containers:The location of food and water cups is a major consideration. Because most cages are designed for perching birds, the cups are generally designed to fit well above the floor at the level of the first perch or higher. If this is the case, you will have to replace them with low profile cups or dishes that can be easily accessed by the quail.

Chinese Blue Breasted Quail do not perch, not even at night, so if the cage you purchase comes with perches, they should be removed

Diet:Over 80% of avian illnesses and early deaths are due to improper diet. In the wild the diet of Chinese Blue Breasted Quail "Button Quail" is made up primarily of wild grass seeds. They also consume small insects and larvae.

An ideal mix for Adult Breeding Chinese Blue Breasted quail is mix of 50% Game Bird Breeding Crumbles that contain an average of 18 - 29% protein (available at most feed stores. Pet shops normally do not carry this product) and 50% Finch

seed mix (this is generally available from both feed stores and pet shops) These ingredients can be mixed together ahead of time and kept in an air tight container or the freezer until needed.

Non breeding Chinese Blue Breasted Quail can be fed a mix containing 50% non-medicated Chicken Layer Crumbles or Game Bird Maintenance Crumbles with an average of 16 to 18% protein, and 50% Finch Seed Mix.

See Caring for Chicks for a proper diet for newly hatched chicks.

WaterThe total make up of a Chinese Blue Breasted Quail is approximately 55% water and the total make up of one of their eggs is approximately 65% water. It is essential therefore to be sure your quail have a steady supply of clean, fresh water. It does not take long for it to go stagnant, especially in warm conditions. Stagnant water is an excellent breeding ground for several types of bacteria.

Water plays important part in all of the birds body functions. It is a critical factor in distributing nutrients and flushing waste from the body. It also stabilizes digestion and regulates the birds body heat by evaporation through the lungs, air sacs and skin. It also plays an important part in muscle performance.

Vitamins: Whenever poor nutrition is discussed, the first topic is generally vitamins. However, reaching for a bottle of vitamins is not the answer. In fact, care must be taken when using manufactured vitamins and minerals so that the wrong kind and the incorrect amount is not used.

Birds, and in particular, Chinese Blue Breasted Quail are small and it is easy to overdose them with vitamins which can lead to liver damage and death. The solution whenever possible, is to provide your quail with a well balanced diet.

Providing your quail with the right kind of nutrition takes a bit of homework, but the rewards are greater than the effort. Most Game Bird and Chicken Feeds are formulated with just the right amount of vitamins and minerals, no additional supplements are generally required, with the exception of Calcium Carbonate.

Calcium:There are several forms of calcium: Calcium Carbonate is an alkaline based from of calcium. It is a natural occurring mineral based calcium and is the source that is the most effective type of calcium for birds. It is the form readily consumed by birds in the wild. The best source of Calcium carbonate for domestic birds, is Ground Oyster Shell which can be purchased at feed stores, and most pet shops. Oyster shells are also essential to aid in the digestion of nutrients by the quail.

Other types of calcium not recommended for Chinese Blue Breasted Quail are:

Calcium Citrate, which an acidic based form of calcium. It is combined with citric acid for easier assimilation in the human body, Another form not recommended is Calcium Lactate: This form of calcium is bound with lactic acid. It is often used as an antacid for humans and as a food preservative, it is also often used to treat certain forms of calcium deficiencies in humans.Incubating and Hatching Button Quail

Eggs(Chinese Blue Breasted Quail)

Newly Hatched Bracken Ridge Ranch Button Quail Chicks

There just Isn't much that can compare to the joy of

watching a Chinese Blue Breasted Quail "Button Quail" chick hatch. Being the smallest quail in the world, they are about the size of a Bumble Bee when they first emerge from their shell, and just about as active. As soon as they hatch and dry off, they are ready to explore their world and they do it with much enthusiasm. They are charming, adorable and delightful.

The Incubator:While you can use any type of incubator, the best hatch will occur when using a forced air (fan) rather than a still air (no fan) incubator. Forced air incubators give a much more even heat, and since Chinese Blue Breasted Quail are so small, they just do better under those conditions.

Turning the Eggs:You will also get a much better hatch if your incubator is equipped with an automatic egg turner. Turning or rotating of eggs in your incubator is critical. When a hen incubates her own eggs, she turns them approximately every eighteen to thirty minutes. The reason turning is so important is that at the start of incubation the embryo (called a germ at this stage) appears in a small white spot (called the germinal disc) on the upper side of the yolk. It tends to float upward each time the egg is turned. The embryo takes its nutrients from the yolk. Each time the egg is turned the embryo is exposed to a new portion of the yolk, and thus has a continual supply of nutrients. Failure to turn the eggs deprives the embryo of the necessary nutrients and and can cause serious malnutrition, weak chicks and can even cause an embryo to die in the shell.

Using an incubator with an automatic turner will greatly increase your hatches, and will also help to produce healthier chicks. Most automatic turners rotate the eggs about once an hour, which is sufficient for a healthy hatch.

If your incubator does not have an automatic turner, and you cannot retrofit one to it, you will have to turn the eggs by hand at least twice a day. The more often the eggs are turned the better. When turning eggs by hand, you can simply roll them from one side to the other in a half turn. It is helpful to mark an X on one side of the egg with a felt tip ink pen so you will know how far to turn the eggs. It is important to not roll the eggs in the same direction every time. Improper rolling can cause the chalazae that holds the yolk in place to tear and set the yolk free. If this happens the embryo will die.

Caring For Eggs During Incubation:

incubators do not have a 100% hatch rate. It is important to understand your incubator and give it a trial run before placing fertile eggs in it.

If your incubator has an egg rack, place the egg into it with the small, narrow end pointing down and the large blunt end facing upward. If your incubator does not have an egg rack, the eggs should be carefully laid on their side, leaving a narrow gap between them. Do not overcrowd them.

As soon as the eggs warm to the temperature inside the incubator the tiny germ cell (embryo) starts to develop. Once the eggs are placed in the incubator try not to open it more than is absolutely necessary.

Chinese Blue Breasted Quail eggs should be incubated at a constant temperature of 99.5 to 99.9 degrees F. (37.5 to 37.7 C) in a forced air incubator If you are using a still air incubator the temperature should be adjusted to 100 degrees F. (37.7 C).

Proper humidity is also essential for a good hatch. Humidity in incubators is regulated by the amount of water in the water reservoir. For a good hatch the humidity should average 50-60 percent. Still air incubators because they lack

a fan, create minimal air movement so humidity tends to build up faster in them. Still air incubators may require much less water in their reservoir than forced air ones do.

Hatching Time:Chinese Blue Breasted quail hatch in 16 days if conditions are correct, but because of human and incubator error, give them a few extra days if they don't hatch right on schedule. For the most part though, if everything has gone off without a hitch, they will hatch in exactly 16 days, almost to the hour they were placed in the incubator.

When To Stop Turning Eggs and Why It is Important:

After the eggs have been in the incubator for 13 days, it is time to stop turning them. If you are using an incubator with an egg rack, shut down the turning mechanism and if possible remove it from the incubator. Next remove the eggs from the rack and carefully lay them on their side on the wire bottom of the incubator. If you do not have an incubator with an automatic turner, simply stop turning them on the 13th day and let them lay still for the next 3 days.

It is important that you do not move the eggs during the last 3 days of incubation. This is the time when the chick needs to move itself into hatching position inside the egg.

Caring for Newly Hatched Chicks:Once the chicks hatch and dry off in the incubator, they will need to be moved to a Brooder, where they will remain until they are feathered out and able to produce sufficient body heat on their own.

It is important to realize that not all chicks that hatch will survive. Under the very best of conditions, it is normal to

lose about 2 to 3 % of a hatch.

The brooder should be set up about 8-12 hours prior to an expected hatch to insure it is warm enough to receive the chicks. Never place them in a cold brooder.

Commercial brooders are available on the market, but unfortunately they were not designed for tiny "Button Quail" Chicks. An easy and effective brooder can be made from a 10 gallon fish aquarium or similar container.

Newly hatched chicks have very soft and delicate bones. During the first 48 hours they their hips can become dislocated ( A problem called Straddle leg) if they are kept on a slippery surface or handled.

Using a nonskid rubber shelf liner on the bottom of your brooder will help prevent this problem.

For heat, place a shop type lamp with a 60 watt clear light bulb, and metal deflector on top of 2 bricks that have been set on end (as shown in photo.) If bricks are not available, the lamp can be suspended approximately 6-8 inches above the floor of the brooder.

Be sure the lamp is place at one end of the brooder so the chicks can huddle under it if they are cold and move away if they become too warm.

When the chicks are first placed in the brooder they should be checked every half hour or so to be sure conditions are right for them. In cold climates, placing a piece of cardboard or a towel that partially covers the top of the brooder may be necessary to help hold the heat in.

What Do The Chicks Eat:Because Chinese Blue Breasted Chick are so tiny, they are not able to fit large pieces of food into their beaks. To provide the right size food, place a good quality Game Bird Starter Crumble or non-medicated Turkey Starter crumble

(Available from Most Feed Stores, Pet shops do not generally carry this type of feed) that is no less than 18 to 20 percent protein, in a food blender and grind it to the consistency of corn meal.

They also need calcium to develop bones and feathers, so finely ground oyster shell can be added to their food mixture.

By the time they are about 3 weeks of age, Finch seed mix should be added to their diet. They can also be given small amounts of hard boiled egg at that time.

BE SURE TO SPREAD GENEROUS AMOUNTS OF FOOD ON THE FLOOR OF THEIR BROODER AS WELL AS IN A SMALL FOOD DISH (plastic jar lids work well.) The chicks instinctively start pecking at the ground looking for food within an hours after they hatch. They will find it faster if it is spread on the brooder floor. Once they are seen eating regularly from the dish, it will no longer be necessary to spread it on the floor.

Providing Water:Approximately 85% of a newly hatched chick's weight is water. They drink approximately twice as much as they eat. For the first 3 or 4 days the water can be placed in a shallow container such as a plastic jar lid (see photo above) with marbles. The chicks peck at the shinny marbles and find the water... the marbles also help prevent the chicks from walking tough the water, getting wet, and taking a chill.

By the time the chicks are 4 or 5 days old the jar lid can be replaced with a standard chick drinker which can be purchased at most feed store. They are generally made of red plastic and screw onto a pint or quart canning jar.

Identifying Color Mutations(Photos below)

Natural Color In the wild, the natural color is known as "normal" or "wild". The male has a blue-gray forehead. The back of his head is covered with brown feathers which are mottled with distinctively striking black tips. The pattern follows down his back and upper portions of his wings. His chest and sides are bluish gray. This color ends abruptly at his belly and turns into a deep rusty chestnut color that follows down between his legs and tail. Black feathers on his throat swirl back to a thin line beneath his eyes. He has a distinguishing white cheek patch, and a crescent shaped white patch that runs from behind his ears, down below the black throat patch and around the other ear. His average body length is 3 to 3 1/2 inches. His legs are set high on the hips and the bulk of his body hangs down between them, thus giving him perfect balance on the ground and in flight.Females differ from the male by being a duller, more camouflaged color. Her head and back feathers are a slightly lighter shade of brown and mottled with black, but these colors are less distinctive than the markings on the males back. Her underside is light buff with narrow bars of black that run across her belly and chest. Instead of the white throat patch she has a pale buff throat that gradually darkens in color to form a fine line beneath both eyes. The area just above her eyes is a slightly darker shade of tawny brown. Hens have fuller, rounder bodies than do the males and are approximately 3 1/2 to 3 3/4th inches in length making her slightly larger than the male.Both males and females have black eyes, a black beak that grays slightly near the cere and orange legs. The feet are also orange with black toenails. The average height of both male and female is approximately 3 to 3 1/2 inches. The male however, tends to elongate his posture by carrying his body more erect in an attempt to make himself look larger and more imposing. The female on the other hand carries the bulk of her body weight low and in a more horizontal posture.

Mutations:Mutations occur naturally in the wild, but are rare. When Chinese Blue Breasted Quail "Button Quail" were first introduced into captivity the only color available was the normal wild color. Today however, consumer thirst for new and different colors has resulted in an emphasis on breeding mutations. So much so, that identifying and classifying each new color has become a confusing issue for both novice and professional breeders. There was an attempt in 2002 by international breeders to simplify and organize the chaos by establishing the base colors and referencing each new mutation back to the original one. While there was reasonable agreement with European breeders,

American's had their own ideas and failed to accept those standards of the breed classification. The unfortunate result is that several people looking at the same bird will come up with multiple color classifications for it.

The original thinking was to recognize each established color at that time: Normal Blue Breasted (original wild color), Normal Red Breasted (occurs naturally as a mutation in the wild), White (occurs naturally as a mutation in the wild, but rarely) Silver, and Cinnamon, then class each mutation back to the dominant colors each produced. For example a bird that was primarily Cinnamon in color but had a red breast would be simply identified as a Cinnamon Red Breasted, regardless of how pale or dak the main cinnamon color was.Lighting and nutrition play a major role in color variants. Not all so called mutations are truly new colors. For example the lack of Lysine, Choline, Calcium carbonate, proteins and various vitamins can cause feathers to lighten or to lose their color pigments.Exposure to the suns ultra violet rays enhances pigmentation. Chinese Blue Breasted Quail derive their coloration from the Melanin pigment, which is the same pigment that causes humans to tan when exposed to the sun. The Melanin pigment is produced in the bird's body much the way it is in humans. The skin absorbs ultra viiolet rays and causes the pigment producing cells in the skin, melanocytes, to produce melanin. When ultra violet rays are absorbed by the skin, it sends signals through the bloodstream to the pituitary gland, which produces a melanocyte stimulating hormone. Another source of melanocyte stimulating hormones are the optic nerves which send signals to the pituitary gland. Often when lighter colored birds are fed a well balanced diet and receive adequate amounts of ultra violet rays, their feathers darken with the next molt.

Color Chart:The following colors represent Chinese Blue Breasted Quail "Button Quail" mutations as they were depicted in the original 2002 attempt at color standardization which Bracken Ridge Ranch still endorses. It will, for the most part be in contradiction with current American Thinking.

Normal Blue Breasted Pair (Good representation of original wild color)( Male on left)

Normal Red Breasted Pair (Male in front)

White Pair (Hen on left)

Silver Pair (Male in front)

Blue Faced Pair (Male on left)

Cinnamon Red Breasted (Male on Left)

Cinnamon Splash Pair (Male on Left)All rights reserved

Why Do Button Quail Need Oyster Shells In Their Diet:

Oyster shells are rich in calcium carbonate, which is necessary for your birds during all phases of their life, but it is especially important during breeding season. Each time a hen lays an egg, it is possible for her to use up more calcium than she can produce from her food source. A hens blood calcium level begins to rise about 8 to 10 days before she begins to produce eggs. Her blood

hormones, estrogen and androgens, increase just prior to producing eggs. When this happens a bone mass, called medullary bone, is built up in layers along some of the hens bones. This acts as a calcium reserve that the hen is able to draw on during the breeding season. The extra calcium is especially important when eggs are taken from the hen to artificially incubate, causing her to produce an extraordinary amount of eggs during one season. When this happens, the calcium reserve is quickly depleted and she begins to draw it from her own bones. although a hen has the ability to draw 40 to 60 percent more calcium from her feed during the breeding season, she can get into serious trouble if the season is artificially extended. Her productive season as well as her life can be cut dramatically short. Young developing chicks also need extra calcium carbonate for good bone and feather growth. Oyster shells are a natural way to provide calcium. It should be available to them at all times.

What Is Their Average Lifespan:In the wild Chinese Blue Breasted Quail "Button Quail" live approximately 10 to 12 years. If their nutritional, housing and lighting needs are met in captivity, they should live at least 6 to 8 years or longer.

Why Don't Hens Live As Long As Males:

The life expectancy of hens should be the same as it is for males, which is at least 6 to 8 years or longer. There are many contributing factors that cause hens to die prematurely. Extended lighting (even household lights in the evening) cause hens to produce an egg a day this drains her physically and robs her body of essential vitamins and minerals. In the wild their day begins when the sun comes up and ends when the sun goes down.Another reason for their premature death is improper diet. They need a diet should contain no less than 18 percent protein (more if their breeding season is extended by artificial lights.) It should

also contain calcium in the form of calcium carbonate (oyster shells) and vitamins A, E, and D. The vitamins should not be given in the form of supplements, but instead though a proper diet of Game Bird Crumbles, non medicated Turkey Crumbles and Finch seed.

Are Button Quail Prone To Disease:

No, They are very disease resistant and do not carry disease that can be passed on to humans or other birds. They are susceptible to a few diseases that they can contact from other birds, but only when their immune system is compromised though poor living conditions or an improper diet. They are very hardy.

Can I keep My Button Quail In Groups:

No. Unlike other types of quail, Chinese Blue Breasted Quail "Button Quail" are monogamous. In the wild they live in single isolated pairs that bond (1 male and 1 female.) It is thought they bond for life, but it may be for only a season. They are very protective of their territory and their mates. Siblings raised together will get along until they mature, but sooner or later fights will break out. Even hens will defend their mate and territory. The fights may be as minor as feather pulling, but can also be serious enough to draw blood and even cause death.

Will My Hen Incubate Her Own Eggs:

Yes. Incubation is a natural instinct. All hens will incubate their own eggs if the proper conditions are provided. When they do not it is because they lack the natural stimulation that causes their pituitary glands to secrete oestrogen, progesterone and prolactin Which cause them to become "broody" and want to sit on their eggs. Proper lighting, and proper diet are the two main components that start their broodiness.

All About Button Quail: Excalfactoria chinensis,

(Chinese Blue Breasted Quail)When is a Button Quail not really a

Button Quail? Here's the scoop.We have spent over a decade researching the Natural History of "Button Quail" through such sources as the University of China at Beijing, and the works of early Ornithologists.

"Button Quail" are actually Chinese Blue Breasted Quail (Excalfactoria chinensis.) They are native to a few provinces in S.E. China, primarily Fukein, Kwangsi, S.E. Yunnan, and Hainan, where they inhabit the the sub-tropical forests, grasslands and shrubby areas. They are generally found near a source of water, such as lakes, streams and rice fields, between sea level and 4,000 feet in elevation.

In the wild they feed on various types of grass seed, which make up the bulk of their diet. They also consume small insects and larvae. They are terrestrial birds which means they spend all their time on the ground and only take to short bursts of flight when frightened. They never perch, not even at night.

These little quail first became popular in the late 1800's and early 1900's when European tourists visiting China noticed them in bamboo cages handing in gardens near the entrances of Chinese homes. When the tourists inquired about the strange little birds, they were told that Chinese Blue Breasted Quail brought good fortune to those who protected them and cared for them. With their tiny size, endearing personalities and the promise of good fortune, many tourists bought them and took them home to put in their aviaries.

During World War II American soldiers saw them in the European homes and reported they were "cute as a Button and about the size of their uniform coat buttons when first hatched." It was then that the quail along with its new nickname were introduced to America.

The nickname "Button Quail" soon caught on and spread throughout the world, but there was a problem. There is a true species of birds with the nomenclature "Button Quail," that make up 15 species of the order Guriformes, family Turnicade and genius Turnix. True Button Quail are native to many parts of the world including Africa, Asia, India, Sri Lanka and Australia. To further complicate the issue, True Button Quail, are not quail at all.

The little Chinese Blue Breasted Quail are easily distinguished from True Button Quail by looking at their toes. True Button Quail are hemipodes (Greek word meaning half foot.) They have only three toes, all of which point forward, they completely lack a hind toe, whereas Chinese Blue Breasted Quail have four toes, three that point forward and a hind toe that faces backward.

IntroductionFirst of all, what is a Button Quail? Buttons are the smallest of the "true" quails, about four inches long, and are native to Australia, Southeast Asia, India, etc. Click here for a map of the distribution of the Button Quail. In addition to the normal "wild type", they come in silver, white, browns and various combinations and shades of these colors, also known as "mutations". Unfortunately, our buttons do not have a very long lifespan; females' can be as short as 18 months, but if they are given proper care and nutrition (see below), you can expect your button hen to live three to four years or even more. Males average four to five years (again, depending on care and nutrition), but I have heard of at least a few male buttons who lived to be as old as nine!

There are actually several different species of birds sharing the name "Button Quail", and they are all not necessarily related. The Button you will see pictured on my pages is commonly referred to as the "Chinese Painted Quail", and is a member of the order Galliformes, family phasianidae. The other birds that we call "buttonquails" are of the order Gruiformes, family turnicidae. These "buttonquails" are not commonly kept in aviculture, are quite difficult to breed, and in fact, there are only a couple of them in captivity in the U.S. at this time! On a separate page, I've compiled a list of some button species as well as some amusing translations from around the world.

Meet Baby Spaz

I've been really lucky to have some wonderful tame button quails in my life; first Baby Spaz, then Bunny, Hercules, PeeWee and Praddle. There's nothing more adorable than having a little button follow you around the house, or come running when you call to them. But I realize that it takes a lot of patience and attention to get this sort of bird to accept us as one of their own. It's not something you can force on them, so don't be mad at your Button if he prefers the company of other quails. Of course, a Button Quail who is not tame should have at least one other quail for company, so if you think you'd like to go quail shopping, look for pairs or trios that have been housed together; don't break up that happy quail family! The rest of this page is devoted to information I have found useful in caring for my quails, past and present, and I hope you'll be able to find something in it that will help make your quail experience truly fabulous!

Unique Birds, Adorable Pets. Buttons are small, neat, and relatively quiet, (although they do have a fairly extensive "vocabulary" that you will come to understand if you take the time!). Their antics are always

amusing, and they are very active, always searching the ground for seeds and other finds. Button quails can become very tame, especially if raised by hand, and if you are patient enough, may be willing to eat from your hand or even let you scratch under their chin!

Housing your Button Quail

Many people keep button quails in the bottom of their aviary, for variety as well as to help clean up spilled seed. This is fine, as long as the other birds' droppings are cleaned out often and the quails are not overcrowded. Because their feet are not made for perching, but rather for walking, their floor must not be wire, instead use cedar or pine shavings. Newspaper is not a good idea, as the droppings will just lay on the surface and your quails will be left walking around in you know what! Traditional bird cages are an option, as long as the floor space is sufficient (minimum of four square feet for one or two) and the inner top of the cage is padded to protect against the "Boink Factor" (see below). This can be done quite easily by wiring an inexpensive piece of foam, 1" or thicker, to the inner top of the cage.

Food and water must be accessible to the quail on the floor of their home. Make sure the food dish is not something their little toes will get caught in! The best thing I have found for a waterer is a hanging dispenser that only allows a bit of water to come out at a time, with a larger amount in the reservoir. This keeps the water fresh and clean, whereas a bowl of water would quickly become dirty as the quail would be walking through it all the time and tracking stuff into it.

Left: A couple of Button Quail homes with "Boink-Proof-Roofs". The one in the back is made from an old coffee table, turned upside down, with fiberglass window screening staple-gunned inside the legs of the table.

If you want to keep button quails simply because they are so cool, and not for an aviary, keep in mind that they are not like other birds in that they are ground dwellers and cannot perch. This means that floor space is key but vertical space is not (except

for the "boink" factor, which I will talk about later). If they are to be housed by themselves or in pairs, a large glass fishtank, 4' long by 1' wide, is ideal. Usually these are 55 gal. capacity, but you can have your pet store order one that is not as deep (and less expensive!) that is known as a "30 gal. long".

Button quails can be very shy, and are easily startled. They are much happier if they have places to hide, so you should add some "extra options" to their cage or aquarium. Baby Spaz has three such hiding places: a bundle of millet sprays tied by the stems and suspended from the side of the tank, an upside-down rectangular box with two doors cut in it (shoebox size), and a cardboard cylinder about 3" diameter by 6" long, with (get this) a silk shoulder pad cut out of a blouse in it to sleep on. (Okay, so he's spoiled!). Real plants are wonderful, but they must be of a sort that are not toxic to birds. Plastic or silk plants also make nice hiding places, and are much easier to maintain.

If you hope to encourage them to breed, I always recommend at least 4 square feet of floor space for a pair, because they run about so much, anything less will seem confining to them, and may lead to them picking on one another. To encourage them to breed, the hen needs a place to "get away" from her mate, so not only floor space, but also "hidey places" as mentioned above (even silk plants) are especially important, and will help to make them feel secure. If you have the space in your home and the resources to build it, an even bigger pen than this is fine. There will never be a problem with having too much space, only too little.

THE BOINK FACTOR

This is very important, so read carefully! When startled, a button quail's first instinct is to fly straight up to get the heck out of there. They're not going to remember if their roof is something hard until it's too late. Boinking into something unyielding can cause serious injury, permanent disability, health problems later in life, and yes, even death. The answer? BOINK-PROOF THE ROOF! It's easy to do, and will save your quail (and you) a lot of headaches later on.

Here's how to set it up if your quail lives in a 4' x 1' aquarium:

1. Buy a piece of fine mesh nylon netting (very inexpensive at fabric stores) about 4" longer and 4" wider than your quail's home.

2. Buy two spring tension curtain rods that will expand to at least an inch longer than the aquarium.

3. Hem the long sides of the nylon about 1 1/2 inches so that you have two long "pockets" to thread the curtain rods through.

4. Put the rods into the hems and extend the rods to at least half an inch longer than the aquarium.

5. Put the whole contraption inside the aquarium (easier to do if Button isn't inside) and tuck the curtain rods up under the top edges of the aquarium.

6. Stretch out the netting so it goes from one end of the aquarium to the other. The result should cover the entire opening, but have enough slack so that if your quail boinks UP he'll boink right back DOWN, none the worse for wear.

Feeding Your Button Quail

So, what do they eat? Button Quails are truly omnivorous, requiring animal, vegetable and mineral to be healthy. Their primary need is a diet high in protein, and the staple of their diet should really be "gamebird crumble", which is over 20% protein. If it's too big when you buy it, you can grind it in a coffee grinder or food processor. Small seeds, such as millet, rape and hemp, are fine, and Button will also enjoy fresh vegetables such as tomato and cucumber slices, tiny sprouts, and broccoli (watch the way your quail tosses the broccoli around to get the little buds off, it's too cute!) In addition, you'll want to make sure that Button gets live food as well.

Mealworms are a perennial favorite, but you can also serve up some crickets and fly larvae (yes, maggots). All of these are commercially available online or at your local pet store, and are fairly inexpensive (Many online retailers sell mealworms for under $10.00 for 1,000 worms, and if you're really ambitious you can raise your own). Don't feed indoor quails any outdoor bugs. These have been exposed to pesticides, pollution and other atrocities that no health-conscious Button Quail wants in his system. One thing about mealworms, though, is that they are very high in fat content. Too many mealworms are bad for your quail. A safe number to feed an individual button is six per day. If you're interested in nutritional analysis of various forms of live food, click here. For a similar analysis of seeds, click here.

Handy food dish and waterer ideas: Cut holes in plastic lids and put over food dishes (above) to keep feed from being spilled everywhere. For waterers (right), bend up wire coat-hangers to make the waterer easy to hang from the side of the tank.

What about the mineral thing? If you've ever owned birds, you already know that they require grit to help them with digestion. This is also true of Button Quails. In addition to its nutritional value, grit is also important in quail hygeine. Give them access to grit in a shallow bowl big enough for them to sit in, and your button will get in and ruffle, ruffle, ruffle; puffing his feathers up and getting the sand right down to his skin. It must be soothing to the feather follicles, and quails seem to love it. You'll also see them "dust-bathing" in their seeds, wood shavings at the bottom of their home, a bit of fabric on the floor, even a shallow saucer of water!

Let's Clear the Air! Button will probably find your houseplants

very attractive. Don't let him chew on them, as many of these plants are toxic to animals.

You'd be amazed at how many things we have floating around our homes that really aren't good for us, and things that are bad for us can be lethal for a tiny bird. Common sense tells us to be careful not to use solvents, varnishes, bug sprays and cleaning agents anywhere near our birds, but what about teflon pans? Scented candles?! There are many avian health concerns that wouldn't occur to us without some access to specialized information, so I've collected links to several sites devoted to Keeping Your Birds Healthy.

Special Care for Female ButtonsButton hens have a unique nutritional and environmental needs, above and beyond those of the males. The primary reason for this is egg-laying. The production of eggs uses vast amounts of the female's resources, which must be compensated for in diet and lighting.

When compared to the size of the hen that produces it, the Button Quail egg is proportionately one of the largest eggs lain by any bird. (This means, the weight of the egg is a significant percentage of the weight of the hen herself). Like chickens, button quail can lay one egg a day every day, for almost her entire life. Without special attention, this practice can very quickly deplete the female of her bone calcium and other essential nutrients, leading to a very early death. Without proper care, a female button's life may be as short as only 18 months! But if you are able to cut down on her egg laying and provide her with proper nutrition, she can live four years or more. I have been trying very hard to develop a system that will lengthen females' lives by compensating for their tendency to "overlay".

Diet is crucial in preventing nutrient depletion. Most important are calcium and protein.

Calcium

Egg shells are composed largely of calcium. If your hen does not have an extra source of calcium in her diet, every shell she produces will draw essential calcium from her system, progressively weakening her bones and muscles, even to the point where she will not be able to support her own weight! A calcium supplement is absolutely essential! The easiest thing to do is to add crushed oyster shell to her bowl of grit; she will gobble it up greedily! Oyster shell is available at your local pet store in small containers, and is relatively inexpensive. As an alternative, you can crush up a regular "human" calcium supplement and add it to the grit, or you can use "Pet-Cal", which is a "dog and cat" supplement. Pet-Cal comes in a tablet and has to be crushed up as well, but it also contains a few other useful nutrients, such as phosphorous and vitamin D (which is absolutely essential for your hen to be able to absorb the calcium itself into her system). Cuttlebone is also a great source of calcium, and many breeders swear by it, but I personally have never seen a button touch a cuttlebone. Mine prefer the oyster shell and Pet-Cal by far. A good vitamin supplement is also very important, for those nutrients that they would get in nature, but are often lacking in a caged environment. I use "Vita-Flight" by Mardel Labs, but there are many other good vitamins available

also. Whichever you choose, definitely find some way to introduce extra calcium into your female's diet!

ProteinEach egg contains a great deal of protein, which means your button has to be getting the protein from somewhere. The best way to provide protein in the diet is by feeding gamebird layer pellets. These have about a 25% to 28% protein content and can be used as your hen's sole diet if you choose. Of course, who would deprive their button of the mealworms, greens and seeds that they love so much?? Other great sources of protein are: mealworms, insects and insect-based food; algae (buy it at a health food store); spirulina, and hardboiled egg, mashed up fine. My hen Bunny also likes cooked beans (i.e., black or kidney), believe it or not, and these are a great source of protein too.

Lighting ConditionsThe egg-laying cycle is related to the number of hours of light the hen gets each day, and does not depend on the presence of a male or whether the eggs have been fertilized. Generally, the hen will lay when her day has 14 or more hours of light, but I have seen hens lay a clutch with 12 or even fewer hours of light. During the summer months, there is not much you can do about this (unless you want to pull the shades down at 6:00 p.m.) but as the days shorten with the approach of winter, you can bring egg-laying to a stop by not giving your birds any artificial light. This means, no lamps, no overhead lights, not even a night-light. When the sun goes down, it's bedtime. Of course, if you work from eight till five as I do, this practice will seriously cut into your quality quail time. I let Bunny out to run around in the mornings before work, and we have our playtime then instead.

Recycling Eggs

Despite your best efforts, your hen is still going to lay plenty of eggs. A clutch will consist of 8 - 12 eggs. A lot of hens will lay many more than this, and never show any interest in building a nest or sitting on the eggs. No one has been able to determine with any certainty why some (if not most) button hens simply have no interest in their eggs, but it seems that a hen who goes "broody" (chooses to build a nest and set the eggs) is the exception rather than the rule.

If your hen is one of those rare birds who will nest, I've developed a little system that will keep her from having to lay a whole clutch each time. My system presumes that your female lives alone or with other females, and will not be laying fertilized eggs. She'll have to lay the first clutch herself, and you probably won't even know she's going to nest until one day you'll go by and see she's piled the eggs all up and built a little fortress around them with her bedding. The key is to leave the eggs where she lays them, even if they are scattered all about the cage. If she's going to nest, she'll do all the work of making a nest and moving the eggs at the last minute. Buttons don't need any "special" materials for building a nest; generally, they will just haul over bits of their bedding. Pine chips or shavings seems to be a good choice. Buttons don't use string or dirt or feathers, because they can't weave or build like many flying birds do. They just sort of make a pile with a depression in the middle for themselves and their eggs.

So now your hen has made her first nest. She will probably sit on the eggs almost non-stop, leaving them to eat and relieve herself. I have found that she will chatter at you most threateningly if you come near, but also that if you get her off the nest and take her out to play, even for an extended period of time, she will return to the eggs once she is back in her cage (or tank or whatever). Allow her to keep her eggs for 16 to 20 days, which is the normal incubation period. After this time, remove the eggs, and she will go on about her normal business within a few minutes. I have

not seen a hen mourn very long over missing eggs.

When you have removed the eggs, save them! Check for damage and throw away any questionable ones, and store the eggs somewhere safe, like in a little basket, with good air circulation. Don't use anything airtight, as I have had eggs go moldy when kept in Tupperware. Under the right conditions, the eggs will not go "bad", they will simply start to dry up inside. I also use a permanent marker to write a little "1" on each egg, so that I can distinguish it from newer eggs later on.

A week or so after you have taken the eggs away, your hen will start to lay again. As soon as you see the first egg, take about seven of the old ones and place them next to the new one. She may lay one or two more, but then she should see the collection as a whole "new" clutch and begin to set them without laying them all over again. Once again, let her keep them for 16 - 21 days, and then take them out. With each clutch, you should end up with two or three new eggs, and you can then pitch the oldest ones from previous clutches.

I hope this information helps your button hen to live a longer, healthier life. Feel free to e-mail me with any questions, and as always, Happy Quails!

Since no markings are present, one must rely on other characters to separate the sexes. As in all Button Quail, hens at maturity are generally substantially larger and more heavy bodied than males. Males are small and slim; they are never heavy bodied birds. By simply holding these birds one can distinguish sexes. Inspection of the vent area is another reliable method used in sexing whites. Females have a large anal opening, males have a noticeably smaller opening.

Other Names: Chinese Painted Quail Native to Southeast Asia, Africa, and Australia, the Button Quail is quite popular in aviculture. Although there are many species known as "Button Quail", the Chinese Painted Quail is the most commonly kept and is often used synonymously when referring to captive Button Quail. Not only do Button Quail make attractive pets, but they are efficient at cleaning seeds off of the bottoms of aviaries and for this reason are kept by many aviculturists who have larger enclosures.

Button Quail are useful little birds, eating much of the seed that other birds in the aviary can spill.

They get along quite well with other birds of other species that are kept in their enclosures, and the only worry is that the Button Quail can be bullied due to its small size. Males will fight if there is more than one male present in a group with females in it. Button Quail do not make much noise and may quickly become accustomed to handling. When startled, the Button Quail will fly straight up into the air. Button Quail like to take dust baths, and you can help them bathe by placing a container of sand in their enclosure. They also like to hide and play in branches on the floor of the aviary. Although Button Quail do well in outdoor aviaries, they can also be kept in enclosures as small as canary cages. Because their feet are not made for perching, Chinese Painted Quail will usually need an aviary with a solid bottom. Button quail are generally not that easy to tame. They tame best if hand-raised, especially singly, but not always. With adult quails, hens tame more easily than males, and some buttons resist all efforts to gain their trust and remain quite wild and skittish their entire lives.

Button Quails are the smallest of the quails and reach about four inches in height at maturity. They come in a variety of colors, with silver or gray being one of the most popular. Usually the male will have a black and white bib under the chin. Females are usually plumper and may be larger than males, and in some mutations they may be colored differently. A more accurate method of sexing, however, is to measure the vent spacing.Specific Care Information:

Male Button Quail should not be kept together, because they may fight to the death. It has been reported that males may do well together if there are no females present. The introduction of a female will induce fighting. Buttons can be kept in pairs, but also do well in trios or fours as long as there is still only one male in any group of females, and there is sufficient floor space for them. They do have a distinct pecking order and it has been reported that the darker Button Quail will often pick on the lighter ones.

Because they fly straight up when startled, the roof of a Button Quail's enclosure must be cushioned or moveable to prevent serious injury or death to the bird. Because Button Quail lay so many large eggs, females may need calcium supplements.

The Button Quail needs a high protein diet. This can be achieved by feeding gamebird crumble which is 22-24% protein. Medicated feed is not suggested. The base diet can be supplemented with fruits, vegetables, and green food in addition to insects such as crickets. Mealworms can also be given, but they are fatty, and should be given sparingly, no more than six a day. Fresh water needs to be available to them at all times. They will also need a bit of grit from time to time.Breeding and Propagation:

Button Quail lay between four and eight eggs on average. They lay most eggs during the summer months, and when day lengths are significantly shortened, Button Quail may stop laying. Generally Button Quail may abandon eggs after laying if they are in a large aviary, and you may have to collect the eggs to incubate them. When left alone, Button Quail will sometimes incubate their own eggs. Usually this will take 16 to 20 days. Generally the female will sit while the male guards the nesting site. The babies can be hand raised in a towel-lined cardboard box heated by a 40-watt bulb about three inches from the ground. They can be fed by spreading the food over the

ground, and their water bowl should have marbles in it so the chicks cannot drown. Button Quail may quickly develop the ability to fly, so the aviary should have some sort of lid that the chicks cannot injure themselves on if they fly up into it too quickly. Chicks are so tiny that entire broods can be kept in five-gallon aquariums with non-skid liner bottoms until they are independent.