the burma cookbook

Burma is a magical country, brilliantly captured in the words and

images of The Burma Cookbook. “If British India was the jewel in the

empire’s crown, then Burma was its treasury,” writes Robert Carmack,

and he clearly loves every kilometer of its mountains and rivers, its

glimmering temples and the peaceful, welcoming smiles of its people.

I’ve only been once to Burma (or its modern name Myanmar), a dozen

years ago, just long enough to be captivated by the place. How I wish I

had had Robert’s book in hand. The text weaves in and out of stunning

illustrations, many of them historic photographs that must have taken

years to compile, Robert’s co-author Morrison Polkinghorne is both

photographer and the book designer and he leads the eye irresistibly

from fishing boats moored peacefully in the setting sun to dinner

menus from as recently as 1972 that include long-forgotten favorites

such as lobster Thermidor and minute steak.

The historic Strand Hotel on the waterfront of Yangon sums up

the essence of the lingering colonial past. Everyone visits The Strand,

myself included, and I was transported back to my English girlhood

with the ritual of teatime. For more than 100 years, British afternoon

tea has been served in that high white salon or on the shaded veranda,

the tables set with snow-white cloths. The scones, delicate sandwiches,

little cupcakes and fruit slices are arranged “variously on classic

shiny silver tiers, and shimmering jet black lacquer work tiffin boxes.

“Tiffin” is another colonial fixture, that lingers on, both at The Strand,

and by school children and workers who daily carry stainless- or

enamelware models of this timeless “lunch box.” Burma may be a link

to the past, but the array of British colonial dishes -- the mulligatawny,

Scotch eggs, and blancmange -- is misleading. Burma has one of the

Foreword

by Anne Willan

richest culinary heritages in the world, and Robert and Morrison have

been exploring its intricacies for the last fifteen years. Today’s Burmese

cooking is delicate, with seasoned oil from cooking onion, garlic and

ginger the primary flavor, and rarely seasoned with dried spice (as in

India). Dishes embrace half a dozen other traditions, including ethnic

Burmese with some regional Shan, Mon and Rakhine specialties. Spices

from India are used, but considered rare and Burmese masala is simple

compared to the layered flavors of the Indian versions. The fiery salads

of Thailand become less assertive in Burma; Chinese inspiration is

evident particularly near the border, while a Bangladeshi influence,

rich in seafood, comes across the Bay of Bengal.

The Burma Cookbook is a treasure house of recipes, and much, much

more. When you simmer up a Burmese style biryani or a fisherman’s

stew, you will find its history and learn how it has developed into

today’s edition; and just possibly you might come across an image of

the cook stirring it up over the fire. I was delighted to find a recipe for

one of my own favorites, kedgeree. This is a country that relies on rice,

though noodles creep in too, with a backup of lentils and chickpeas.

Much of the cooking is done on the street, implying dishes-in-one such

as mixed vegetable salads, with kebabs and other nibbles, croquettes

and other deep-fried treats on little plates, chopsticks poised for action

on the side. Lots of inspiration, and temptation!

The Burma Cookbook brings the cooking and the country to life.

Burma is a beautiful country and this splendid book does it honor.

Bravo!

Founder, La Varenne Cooking School