the black hair secret

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Diva Glam Beauty presents The Black Hair Secret Learn how YOU can achieve up to 6 inches of healthy hair growth in one year! Nesha Marshall 5/1/2012

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How to grow 6 inches of healthy black hair in one year. It's as easy as 1-2-3!

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Page 1: The Black Hair Secret

Diva Glam Beauty presents

The Black Hair

SecretLearn how YOU can achieve up to 6 inches

of healthy hair growth in one year!

Nesha Marshall5/1/2012

Page 2: The Black Hair Secret

Let’s chat and take a walk…

Are you fed up with the state of your hair? Are you one of those ladies who wish she had a head of hair she could be proud of? I know I am. I have done so much to my hair. I’ve cut it, dyed it, went back natural, relaxed it, went natural again, relaxed it, bleached it, weaved it, curled it, braided it. I’ve done everything except nurture it, love it, care for it and treasure it. Enough is enough!

Let’s face it, ladies. No one wants to be beautiful only in wigs, weaves or other extensions. I want long flowing, thick healthy hair that is naturally down my back. I want to be able to wear my own hair out and make people wonder if it’s a weave again. You know that feeling? When your hair is so healthy and radiant that people stare at you? Mine was until I started to do so much crap to it, that the poor thing just gave up and “died” and in the hands of unprofessional hair stylists it went from bad to worse. Then came the stick in weaves, too-tight braids and all hell broke loose. So, I’m taking a stand for my hair and doing what is right. What about you?

You look and feel even more beautiful when you know you have a great head of hair that is healthy and gorgeous. People see it and your confidence soars.

Are you ready to take that journey with me? I know I just can’t wait!

Your favorite diva,

Nesha

www.divaglambeauty.com

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Intro

As the old adage goes, a woman’s hair is her crowning glory. If you’re like me, you’re tired of wearing weaves to hide the fact that your hair isn’t up to par. That isn’t very queenly to me. When people see you with a flawless weave, they comment that the weave looks so real but they don’t ever think it’s your hair. Why? Because it’s become common place to see Bajan women sporting short hair, whether natural or relaxed.

Hardly do you see a black woman with hair past her shoulders unless she’s of Indian descent. Or she has “pretty hair” as we call it. But what really is pretty hair? Any hair texture which is healthy and radiant to me is pretty. It doesn’t matter if you have tight coils of soft spirals, it’s beautiful to see a full head of strong beautiful hair.

On the other hand, you may like your hair short. It’s up to you. This book not only focuses on growing hair long, it focuses on nursing it back to health as well. There are some common misconceptions which we have which will be dispelled in the book, such as the myth about black hair growing long.

In this guide, you’ll see how you can achieve lengths beyond your imagination by just following three simple steps. And if you follow my website, you’ll see just how easy it is to rock a healthy head of hair. This book is my gift to you, my beautiful Caribbean sisters. I truly want you to be confident and vibrant out when facing the world, proud of your hair and your blackness and strutting your stuff.

Keep this guide like your Bible during your healthy hair journey. You have to be consistent and soon you’re healthy hair practices will become as necessary as sleeping. Have patience and you’ll be richly rewarded with a beautiful healthy head of hair that grows down your back!

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What’s happening to our hair?!?

So many beautiful Bajan women are losing their hair today, it scares me! Many women are

sporting thin and some even bald hairlines, some all the way around the head. Lots of women cut their hair in a hot curl style ‘till it’s only about 3 inches long, because of the severe hair damage they experience. If you had to look under the weaves of some women, it would look like something from Ripley’s Believe It or Not. Trust me, as a hairstylist the things I see would shock you. I mean mine isn’t that bad, but it isn’t the best either. I’ve become addicted to the fullness, length and beauty of the weaves and now I don’t like my short natural hair anymore. I hardly ever wear my hair out. What about you? What’s your hair story?

Today, over 80% of women under the age of 55 wear weaves, hair pieces, braids or some sort of extensions. But that’s not the real issue because I’ll show you how to use these to grow your hair. The question is why. Why do we feel the need to wear these extensions, even though we have hair growing every day?

Sadly, we use extensions for several reasons the most popular being: To hide the fact that our hair is in bad shape To add volume and thicken hair As a convenience tool when going about our daily lives To achieve length To add colour to our hair because we experienced such terrible damage when we did it

to our own hair

At this rate, we will be a nation of women suffering with premature balding if we don’t wake up and realize that we need to take care of our natural hair. It’s a must! All of us can’t pull off a bald head..lol. Plus your confidence suffers when your hair isn’t healthy too.

So read on if you’re feeling me so far…

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Can YOU pull off a bald head like she does? I know I can’t!

Why don’t we like our own hair?

Well I’ll tell you why I don’t like mine right now. It’s brittle, dry and it always seems so thin

once it gets to my shoulders. It only looks thick when I cut it and I end up doing that only to miss my length. Ugghhh!

DrynessSo common, especially in our tropical climate where it’s very warm a lot of the time. And then in walks the No-Lye relaxer, sooo drying to our hair but so widely used because of its convenience. Anytime everything you need comes in a box, it usually means something is inferior. Companies look to capitalize on the convenience factor by substituting quality ingredients for the cheapies. Is cheap yah want? Is cheap you gone get!

Soon your hair is doing the snap, crackle, pop and you’re wondering what went wrong. No-Lye lied to you, honey.

Not GrowingLadies, each and every single hair on our head is growing. As sure as we get up every morning, and journey through our respective busy lives, that hair is growing. When we go to sleep at night and have dreams about lovely waist length tresses, it’s growing. Trust me on this one, your hair is ALWAYS GROWING!

Hair grows at a rate of about ½ inch per month average. Some grow more, some grow less. What happens to us black beauties is that the hair is growing but its breaking at

an equal pace or even faster. So you are fooled into thinking, “This dang hair aint growing, I better cut it back down” when really you need to retain this length by following a healthy hair regimen.

Plus remember, our hair is tightly coiled so it’s not going to show the length unless we stretch it or relax it. Nubian princesses will take longer to really see the length but it’s there!

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Not BehavingOur hair in its natural state is kinky, tightly curled and spongy. But some of us (raising

my hand ) want our hair to be sleek and smooth all of the time. It’s time to get real. When we keep taxing our hair and tugging it into too tight ponytails to make it look sleek, over loading it with products to keep it under control and roasting it into submission with our arsenal of heat weapons, I mean tools, we really are the ones misbehaving.

How can we expect our hair to do things is simply was never intended to do? We relax our hair and enjoy a sleek look for a few weeks then when the new growth creeps in

we smack some “creamy crack” on it and relax the front. Result? A weakened front line from the over processing which breaks and is always shorter than the rest of your hair.

Stick with me, I’ll show you ways that we can ride out the new growth period WITHOUT retouching until that new growth is good and ready…and still look FAB!

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About our hair

Curly Cues

Our hair is kinky curly, naturally, However we have different curl patterns, each one unique.

Take this time to examine your hair, if you have new growth look at the natural curl pattern and determine what your curl type is:

I am about a 4a, my natural hair has slight waves when I lay it down. What’s your curl type?

Curl type is important so you can set realistic goals for how you want your hair to look. For example, a 3A curly queen can rock her natural texture in a roller set without using chemical straighteners. Try that on a 4C Nubian princess and she’s sure to look like a poodle by the end of the day in our humidity.

Dry spellsOur hair is prone to dryness, especially in its purest state. Because of the tight coils in our hair, moisturizing products normally don’t get to penetrate well leaving the strands like old twigs on that mahogany tree down the road. Dried out, dead and waiting for the next strong wind to blow them into oblivion.

Relaxing the hair allows it to have better penetration but by that time the strands have been compromised as any chemical change results in the weakening of the hair. Inconsistent treatment leaves the hair, weak, fragile, exposed and neglected. How could you?!?

Lucky for you, our hair is forgiving. Show it lots of love and it’ll grow right down your back!

Our Hair StructureIt’s important to know what our hair is made up of and what is consists of. Each strand of healthy black hair contains two main structures, the cuticle and the cortex. Think of the shingles

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on a roof and you’ll have the cuticle structure in mind. The cuticle is made up of tiny scales which over lap each other to create a shield. This is your hair’s defense; if the cuticle is damaged, the hair is susceptible to any and everything that comes along. The cortex is the bulk of the hair where much of your hair’s characteristics are determined. If it’s wavy, curly, or relaxed it’s because of the structure within the cortex. Similarly, if the hair is very dry and brittle or suffering from heat damage, it likely has deeply affected the cortex and thus treatments should penetrate to this layer to see the maximum benefits. This is the reason why we use deep conditioning treatments to moisturize our hair.

Is our hair weak?This study says not1! Our hair was compared to Caucasian and Asian hair and it was shown that the proteins contained in the hair samples were very similar across the board. Conclusion? It’s our styling practices that weaken and damage our hair not the structure.

1 Exp Dermatol, 2005 Apr; 14 (4):311-4 Apparent fragility of African Hair

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Now it’s time for the big S…..

The Keys To Unlock

Amazing HairGrowth

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Three simple steps… That’s all it takesto have beautiful, long, healthy hair!

1) Cleanse2) Moisturize3) Protect

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First StepsGearing up for the trip

Get ready for your close up!First up, ladies. You need to take a picture of your hair right now. I call this your Starting Line pic. This is sooo important for you so that you can track your progress. If you don’t have a camera, use your cell phone. Get right down in your hair so you can see the condition of it. Then comb it right back and take a length shot. When Christmas hit and we’re down Bridgetown shopping with our hair flowing, you won’t have to be guessing whether this journey is making a difference. You can just whip out your Starting Line pic and really see the difference.

Get a BAN BOXGet an old shoe box and label it “The Ban Box”. In this box, we put all things that are bad for our hair, at least for the beginning stages. Put the blow dryer, the flat iron, the curling iron, and the black bonding glue in there. Yes, the black weave glue. And promise not to go buying any either. God is watching you…also put your gels, your spritzs and cotton head wraps. Take that ban box and hide it from yourself. I sometimes hide things so good I can’t find them later.

Don’t worry, we’ll revisit the ban box in the future…if we can find it, LOL!

Get a TOOL BOXSimilarly, get an old shoe box and label it “The Tool Box”. This is your secret weapon and will contain everything you need to achieve long, luscious lengths. This box should always be at hand when you need it. More on what should go in the Tool Box later.

Be CONSISTENTLadies you must, must MUST be CONSISTENT! None of this will work if you start today, stop next week then pick back up next month. This is an everyday plan. I’m going to be doing it right along with you so you have some company. And trust me, if it wasn’t simple to follow I wouldn’t be doing it either.

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The Tool Box

This is your best friend for the next year

and some. The Tool Box should contain everything you need to get the length you deserve. All of these items can be found in our local beauty supply stores like Diamond Girl, #1 Beauty Supply, etc.

ToolsDetangling wide tooth combThis will be useful when the hair is wet for gentle comb thrus

Satin scarfA must to protect strands while you sleep

Flexi rodsGreat for adding curls and volume to hair without the use of heat

Magnetic rollersAnother great way to add volume to hair

Wrap StripsGood for holding your wrap at night

Spray BottleTo hold your moisturizing concoctions in; stay tuned for recipes

Bonnet dryer/ Thermal Heat capFor maximum penetration of treatments

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Plastic capsTo keep treatments on the hair

Ouchless ponytail holdersTo avoid snagging and pulling hair when in ponytails or buns

Hair pinsBoth the bobby pin and the flat one, useful for updos and other styles

Rat tail combEssential for styling

Applicator bottle with pointed tipSimilar to one used in neutralizing Jherri Curls; bottle with a cone shaped top that can be removed

Duckbill clipsTo hold sections of hair in place while styling

Hair JournalThis is great to document any changes which are taking place in your hair’s condition and length. It establishes a pattern through which you can properly monitor your hair growth. If something is not working, you’ll be able to track through the hair journal and eliminate it from your regimen quickly. A regular $1 exercise book will do.

ProductsCastor OilEssential for thicken hair. Get the purest form you can find, usually Jamaican Black Castor Oil

S-Curl ActivatorThis imparts moisture into the hair on a twice daily basis. Can be substituted for some other curl moisturizing agent.

Jojoba Oil/Coconut Oil/Olive OilUsed to seal moisture into the hair. Used lightly and sparingly so as not to weight hair down. Can be used as a pre treatment to shampoo.

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Tea Tree Oil/ Peppermint oil/ Rosemary OilUsed to stimulate the hair follicles. To be used with a carrier oil and only a few drops necessary.

Deep ConditionerA deep moisturizing treatment which will hydrate hair during deep conditioning sessions. Motions MoisturePlus is great for regular use.

Protein ReconstructorA treatment to rebuild and thicken hair strands. A great one is Aphogee Two Minute Keratin Reconstructor. You can use this weekly, but stronger ones like their Two-Step Protein Treatment must be spaced out at least once a month. You can also use hair mayonnaise.

Moisturising ShampooA gentle shampoo to cleanse the hair without stripping it of its moisture. Designs Essentials has a Moisture Retention Shampoo and also a Sulfate-free version designed for natural tresses

Setting LotionTo help curls to hold shape longer. Lottabody is excellent!

Protein GelTo help to lay hair down for sleek styles. Ampro Gel has lots of great benefits.

Heat ProtectantYou need something to protect your hair from the heat when you resume use of heat tools. Look for a spray or cream base to protect the hair. I use a brand called Thermal Radiance on my clients and it gives a nice shine as well as smells great.

Multi-vitaminHealthy hair grows from a healthy body. Make sure you are getting all your nutrients by taking a good multi-vitamin. Look for one containing biotin, which supports healthy hair growth.

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Hair TalkI know you ain’t telling me put “poo” in my hair?!?

As we black women began to educate ourselves and come together to join forces to grow our beautiful hair, certain slang developed. Here are some that will be useful to you:

Poo: ShampooPre-poo: Pre shampoo, often refers to a deep conditioning treatment to prepare hair for shampoo phaseEVOO: Extra Virgin Olive OilCo-wash: Washing with conditionerDust: Trimming the ends of the hair slightlyACV rinse: Apple Cider vinegar rinseBantu Knots: Corkscrews, like what grand-mummy used to give youTwist out: Curly style produced from opened twistsBraid out: Curly style produced from opened braidsBaggie: Refers to conditioning hair in plastic cap, most likely only ends of ponytailTransitioning: The period where previous relaxed hair is replaced by natural hair

Lengths guide:TWA-Teeny weeny afroEL-Ear lengthCL-Chin lengthSL-Shoulder lengthAPL-Armpit lengthBSL-Bra strap lengthMBL-Mid back lengthWL-Waist length

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THE HEALTHY HAIR GUIDEPlain, simple, to-the point

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Step 1: CleansingYou MUST clean your hair and scalp every week, if possible at least

twice a week

Why? “Well I wash my hair every two weeks and I heard it’s not good to wash your hair that often”. This is a big fat myth we black women have passed on for years. Your hair and scalp must be free of product buildup to maximise growth. Dirty hair does not grow well and your hair loves water anyway. Plus, any moisture lost will be re-added in the form of a deep conditioning treatment. There, we fixed that lie, didn’t we?

How to do it? Newsflash, every time you wash your hair it doesn’t have to be with shampoo. Yup, you

just read right. Washing the strands of your hair does not require a shampoo every time. Using a conditioner to cleanse your strands, referred to as co-washing, is really beneficial as:

- Too much shampooing strips the hair of its oils and moisture leaving it dry and brittle- Conditioners coat the hair allowing for an easier detangling process

Use the conditioner to gently rinse the strands to remove product build up. Added benefit is a softening of the hair.

Shampoo comes in handy once a week and should be diluted half and half with warm water to form a soapy solution and applied to the scalp. Concentrate on the scalp by massaging it to remove excess dead skin, oils and dirt. The strands will be rinsed as the shampoo runs down their length.

Pre-pooAs an added benefit, try a pre-poo of coconut and olive oil to ensure your hair stays moisturized. Lightly mist hair with water and use about a quarter cup of the oil combo on the strands. Use a cheap conditioner like VO5 over the oil mix and cover with a plastic cap. Sit

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under a warm dryer for 20 minutes, or you can let it sit for one hour. Rinse as much from hair and then continue shampoo process.

Hydral fatigue

A phenomenon was discovered which shows even further why we should pre poo our hair. Hydral fatigue is described as the swelling and shrinking of hair which occurs when water comes into contact with the hair strand. This practice can be compromise the cuticle and

cortex, especially if it’s previously damaged and begging for water. (Think back to biology days and the osmosis theory). Imagine you have an over-stuffed duffel bag coming back home from New York, I mean really pushing it. If it doesn’t burst open when the Red Cap men throw it about at the airport, you can guarantee that bag will be stretched out of shape for life. The same thing goes for our hair, if you keep stretching it to capacity with water it will suffer as a result.

Coconut oil: the miracle cureCoconut oil has been shown2 in a laboratory study to be truly beneficial to our hair. It greatly reduced the swelling of the hair thus minimizing damage when the hair is wet. Damage to the cuticle was significantly reduced during combing due to the reduction in swelling and the lubricating effect of the oil. Some people even believe that coconut oil contains protein but it’s not that it contains protein, it just likes protein. So it’s attracted to the protein in our hair and goes deep into the cortex layer to support it. I love coconut oil!

Step 2: Moisturize

Our hair is naturally dry and the tighter your curls the more moisture is needed. You MUST regularly moisturize your hair.

Why?

2 J Cosmet Sci, 52, 169-184 (May/June 2001) Investigation of penetration of coconut and mineral oils into human hair fibers: relevance to hair damage

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After washing hair, we must replace the lost moisture by deep conditioning. Every day our hair is exposed to the elements and loses moisture. It must be replaced to retain the length. Think of our hair like a chamois (chammy) for a wiping down the car. You know the ones that we keep in the yellow container in the trunk. If we leave it out in the open, it becomes very dry and brittle, so hard you can break it and tear it. That is exactly what happens to our hair when we don’t add moisture to it. It becomes dry, and brittle and difficult to manage and we end up tearing and breaking it trying to tame it. So back to the chamois example. If we add water to that chamois, you see how soft and pliable it becomes, bending to your will WITHOUT any breakage. You get the picture; moisture is our hairs’ best friend. Add lots of it and you will be rewarded with fantastic lengths.

How to do it?After cleansing, you should add a deep conditioner to the hair. Now a bit about deep conditioners. You can have a moisturizing conditioner or a protein reconstructor. Each type has its own function, and you guessed it the moisturizing conditioner would add moisture. The protein reconstructor rebuilds the hair strands and strengthens the hair. It also thickens the hair strand too.So, each conditioner usually has its own instructions but the basic directions are 15 minutes under a heated dryer WITH a plastic cap. I know some say you don’t need heat but I find the best penetration is with heat so invest in a hooded dryer if you don’t have one.

How often?Deep conditioning is very very good for our hair. It’s like your Sunday cook food, if you don’t get it you feel offset for the rest of the week and can’t wait until the next Sunday. Similarly, you hair can’t wait to get its deep conditioning treatment. And even better if it can be fed twice a week.

A few things. Treatments can actually damage your hair if misused especially a protein treatment depending on which one you use. Do not over moisturize; twice a week is more than enough for 99% of cases.

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Protein treatmentsOur hair is made of a series of protein strands so it makes sense that we need to reinforce them with protein treatments. You can use a reconstructor (like the Aphogee Keratin 2 minute Reconstructor) once a week and a hair mayonnaise if you’re seeing significant breakage. But be careful with a raw protein treatment (like the Aphogee Two Step Protein Treatment). This should only be use every four to six weeks.

IMPORTANT! Do not EVER use a raw protein treatment after/before a relaxer. Not even less than two weeks before or after the chemical procedure. The raw protein is very strong and our poor fragile hair would not be able to manage a strong chemical like a relaxer then that strong treatment too. But on the flip side, it’s excellent at strengthen the hair. Also to be noted, a moisturising treatment must follow the raw protein treatment because of its drying qualities.

How can I tell if my hair needs a protein treatment?Does your hair feel soft and mushy, limp and fragile? Does it seem lifeless and do curls come right out as if you never put them there? And most of all, is your hair breaking? Then, yes your hair needs a protein treatment. The strength of the treatment is determined by the severity of the condition of your hair. Try out a few starting from the mildest form (Aphogee Keratin 2 Minute) and move up if it doesn’t address your needs. As a last resort, use the raw protein but be warned if you are not moisturising this treatment will make your

hair very dry and will actually damage your hair. I can’t stress enough how careful you need to be with the raw protein.

Oil TreatmentsLadies, oil is NOT a moisturizer on its own. I know we’re accustomed putting hot oil treatments in our hair for whatever reason. Oil acts as a barrier so that moisture is not lost, thus the reason our hair feels better when it’s in there. But only three types of oil enter the hair shaft those being olive oil, coconut oil and avocado oil. Studies3 show that coconut oil goes to the cortex layer of the hair strand, while mineral oils do not Other types only coat it. Pure coconut oil is a

3 J Cosmet Sci, 52, 169-184 (May/June 2001) Investigation of penetration of coconut and mineral oils into human hair fibers: relevance to hair damage

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godsend to women since it smells wonderful and is amazing for our hair. It’s great to cook with too! Mix with olive oil for a great pre-poo treatment. Heat for 20 minutes for soft moist hair after cleansing process.

Other forms of moisturisingOur hair is ALWAYS hungry for moisture. So even though we are regularly conditioning we need to add moisture during the day. The way to do this is to use a Jherry curl activator (like Luster S-Curl) to add moisture to the hair. This product is perfect since it is designed to continuously moisturize the hair during the day. Alternatively you can use a moisturizing lotion or a leave in conditioner but look for one that is non greasy so as not to weigh down the hair(Design essentials has one designed for natural hair that smells great).

Back to our chamois example mentioned earlier at the start of this section. Consider the container the chamois is kept in. That is what keeps the chamois nice and soft and moisturised. Similarly, we must create a seal to lock in the moisture so it isn’t evaporated in the hot Bajan sun. To do this you can use a very small amount of oil (ten cent size) and rub on the hair strands to trap the moisture in.

Ideally, the moisturize and seal process should happen twice a day, once on mornings once at night. But if you can’t manage, you can do it once before you go out on mornings.

No Heat!Oh I forgot. If possible, avoid heat and the blow dryer. If you can, towel dry by squeezing gently, then air dry your hair. I’m able to sleep dry my hair over night and I don’t get colds or anything so try it and see if it works for you. At least if it’s still a bit damp in the morning you can damp bun it. Or if you must, go in your Ban Box and use the blow dryer. It would be for a much shorter amount of time than if you were drying it from completely saturated.

DetanglingWhen our hair is wet, treat it like a new born baby. Very gentle, no tugging and pulling and soft, patient touches. Don’t be rough with our delicate hair type, you’re sure to lose a few precious inches if you are. Detangling is a much longer process if your hair is natural since it’s much easier to tear our hair in its natural texture. When detangling, you should section in about six and start from the bottom of the hair and work up inch by inch. Detangle while the conditioner is in the hair so that it has some slip.

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Step 3: Protect

After taking such great care of our hair, we MUST protect the integrity of our strands. Sounds like we’re gearing up for a battle

right? Read on…

Why?After we’ve cleansed and moisturized our hair, it’s best that we employ some form of protective style to help us to retain our length. As the saying goes, less is more. The less we do to our hair in the way of styling the more it grows. Combing, brushing, pulling, curling, dying, blow drying, flat ironing all compromise the hair strand. So to cut down on that, we use protective styles to stop the over manipulation of hair.

What are Protective Styles?A protective style is any hair style which allows us to keep the ends of our hair covered from the elements and friction. Any style that keeps your ends off your shoulders and away for friction on your shirt will

prevent split ends and breakage. This is the number one reason why our hair doesn’t grow past our shoulders.

Friction + dryness - protective styles=severe breakage

Take that equation and turn it into this:Cleansing + moisturising + protective styles=

long healthy hair

Types of Protective stylesWigs

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Wigs are the ultimate protective style since you can remove and replace on a daily basis while your hair remains covered from the elements. You can moisturize and condition and wash as needed with minimal troubles using wigs. Wigs can mean ¾ wigs and half wigs too!

Hair piecesSo yes, I spoke about hair pieces earlier, but if you are following a good regimen a hair piece will protect your ends rather than hurt them. Look for a nice one or make your one from human hair so it lasts longer and doesn’t tangle. Don’t put the ponytail too tight though!

BunsBuns are great protective styles. A damp bun is especially useful if you wash in the morning and just need to protect the ends. You can either make a bun hairpiece, buy one from the hairstore or bun your own hair, just not too tight!

WeavesMy all time favorite! Weaves are a great way to look fabulous while protecting your own hair. When you wear weaves consistently, your hair is saved from any manipulation

whatsoever which great for hair growth. Remember less is more? The trick to it is maintaining your hair under the weave to ensure your hair still stays healthy, meaning you continue to cleanse and moisturize. A weave should last you between 4 to 6 weeks after which it should be removed so that complete maintenance can be performed on your hair. Oh, and of course I mean sew in weaves. Avoid glue in weaves and only do it if you’re using a serum to protect your hair like the Gro Protect Solutions by Morning Glory.

Twist outs/ Braid outs/ Bantu KnotsThese styling methods allow you to achieve a nice natural curly look without the use of rollers. This means less tension on the hair which is always a great thing. They also have great holding power too and allowing you to rock a natural look even if relaxed.

Roller SettingI thought I’d mention roller setting as a protective style since it allows you to achieve the curls desired without using heat. A great styling option, and remember damp hair dries curlier and lasts longer than dry hair set on rollers

How tight is too tight?Your hair is too tight if:

You feel tension when you bend your neck.You feel tension when you smile or raise your eye browsYou can see the hair pulling form the follicles.The ponytail is painful

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BraidsT his is at the bottom of my list because I am a bit iffy about putting them on my list. Most braiders today braid way too tight, so that we end up losing our hair lines from braided hairstyles. If it’s too tight, it ain’t right. Speak up and ask that they slacken their hold on your hair if it feels like the hair is going to pull right off into their hands. That being said, braids are a good way to grow your hair but remember you must maintain you natural hair within the braid. Cleanse and moisturize as often as you can manage. Synthetic extensions like kanekalon are drying to our hair so it’s essential that we continue to moisturize. On the other hand, braiding your own hair is great too!

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Regimen Building

So that’s the basics to the healthy hair journey. I trust that all the information I’ve provided will encourage you to keep with it. Don’t forget I’ll be taking this journey with you.

That being said, it’s time for you to get your Healthy Hair Journal and formulate a regimen. It’s basically a weekly plan of action so you can have a clear idea of how you’re going to take care of that beautiful head of hair. You may have to adjust depending on if you’re using a protective style or have had a major chemical treatment done to your hair.

For example this is what I my regimen looks like if I am NOT in a weave:

Sundays Mondays Tuesdays Wednesdays Thursdays Fridays SaturdaysWash day-Pre-poo-Shampoo-Deep Condition-Mositurise-Seal-Protective style-Air Dry

Morn:-Moisturise-Seal Eve:-Moisturise-Seal-Protective style

Morn:-Moisturise-Seal Eve:-Moisturise-Seal-Protective style-Coconut and olive oil pre-poo

Wash day-Co-wash-Deep Condition-Moisturise-Seal-Protective style-Air Dry

Morn:-Moisturise-Seal Eve:-Moisturise-Seal-Protective style

Morn:-Moisturise-Seal Eve:-Moisturise-Seal-Protective style

Morn:-Moisturise-Seal Eve:-Moisturise-Seal-Protective style

If I’m wearing a weave, it’ll be different:Sundays Mondays Tuesdays Wednesdays Thursdays Fridays SaturdaysWash day-Pre-poo-Shampoo-Deep Condition-Mositurise-Seal-Protective style-Air Dry

Morn:Style and go

Morn:-Moisturise-Seal

Morn:Style and go

Morn:-Moisturise-Seal

Morn:Style and go

Morn:-Moisturise-Seal

Page 28: The Black Hair Secret

You can build your own regimen using mine as a guide. You can plan ahead and include things like when you’re going to start using any particular protective style.

Final wordsSo now you know the secret, ladies and its left up to you to take action. Nourish your hair and treasure it because if you mistreat it, it leaves you quicker than Usain Bolt. This plan is so simple to follow and I wish I’d done it sooner. Just tune into your hair because each person’s hair is unique. Try out different products and see which ones work best for you. Take notes of what your hair’s reaction is to different products, treatments and styling options.

Our hair journey is going to be so much fun. I know you’ll be amazed at what you’re able to achieve with three simple steps: Cleanse, mositurise, protect.