the big bend aisano p - national park service history elibrary · big bend national park is much...
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Big Bend National Park is much more than just precipitous canyons,spectacular mountains, and rugged vistas. It is also more than merelya destination for camping and hiking. For many life forms, Big BendNational Park means life itself. Protected within park boundaries,some of these rare species find their last resort for survival.
In this issue of the Big Bend Paisano, we get to know a few of thesespecial species, and along the way, reaffirm the priceless importanceof our National Parks.
Please accept our
invitation
to join the
Big B
end
Natu
ral History A
ssociation
The A
ssociation's goal is to educate thepublic and increase their understandingan
d appreciation
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ig Ben
d A
reaand w
hat it represents in terms of our his-
torical and natural heritage. You can bean im
portant part of this effort when you
become a m
ember.
BBNH
A w
as founded in 1956 to aid educational,historical, and scientific program
s for the benefit ofBig Bend and its visitors.
Past and presen
t projects inclu
de:•
Operate book sales outlets in Big Bend N
ationalPark and A
mistad N
ational Recreation Area
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iththe publication of The Big Bend Paisano
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iscounts at many other association bookstores in
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pportunity to support scientific, educational, andhistorical program
s in Big Bend
AISANOAISANOAISANOAISANOAISANOAISANOAISANOAISANOAISANOAISANOVOL. XXIII NO.1 SPRING 2002
PPPPPPPPPPA Visitor's Guide to Big Bend National Park
and Rio Grande Wild & Scenic River
The Big BendThe Big BendThe Big BendThe Big BendThe Big Bend
Nature's Last ResortA Refuge for Species of Concern
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A Fool's Tale............1Welcome.................2BBNHA....................3Park News............4Wetland Project.....5Lions & Bears.........6Rare Bats ............7Touring Guide......8Hiking Big Bend......9Cactus Rustlers......10Backcountry........13Safety Tips............14Map/Phone #s.....15
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Page 1 Page 1 Page 1 Page 1 Page 1The Big BendThe Big BendThe Big BendThe Big BendThe Big Bend PAISANOPAISANOPAISANOPAISANOPAISANO
“Impor-tant Bird
Areas areplaces of in-
ternat ionalsignificance for the
conservation of birdsat the global, regionalor sub-regional level.IBAs are a practical toolfor conservation. Sitesmust, wherever pos-sible, be amenable tobeing conserved andto being delimited fromsurrounding areas, andbe large enough to sup-port viable populationsof the species for whichthey are important.”
...some threads of the tapestry that isBig Bend can, and do, break.
AISANOAISANOAISANOAISANOAISANOPPPPPThe Big BendThe Big BendThe Big BendThe Big BendThe Big BendAISANOAISANOAISANOAISANOAISANOPPPPPFREESPRING 2002VOL. XXIII NO. 1
Orienting and Educating Visitors to Big Bend National Parkand the Rio Grande Wild & Scenic River
The Big BendThe Big BendThe Big BendThe Big BendThe Big Bend
"Spanish for Roadrunner"
Musing over morning cof-fee as another day begins,
I look out the window into theback yard and silently greet eachbird that comes in for a drink ofwater and a morning bath. ShyPyrrhuloxia, bold cactus wren,darting canyon towhee, furtivescaled quail, all year-round resi-dents, all well-known neigh-bors. Now a yellow-rumpedwarbler, a nervous ruby-crowned kinglet, several paleBrewer’s sparrows, a herd ofbossy white-crowned spar-rows, birds of winter and har-bingers of the coming spring.Soon the migrants will grace thetrees and bushes busily fuelingup for the next jump to the north.With them will come the birds ofsummer, the travelers whosejourney north ends in Big Bend,who will nest and produce an-other generation before theyhead south again. I feel fortu-nate. To live in an area wherenatural cycles are preserved, tobe witness to the yearly move-ment of birds is a definite bonusof my job.
For those who observe andresearch birds, the value of a pro-tected area like Big Bend Na-tional Park is profound. Cur-rently the park’s checklist of birdsstands at 445 species, testimonyto the park’s location along a ma-jor migration route and to thediversity of habitat types pro-tected here.
For birders, Big Bend offersthe opportunity to see morekinds of birds than any other na-
tionalpark, in-cluding
Mexi-c a n
s p e c i e sseldom seen anywhere else in
the United States. For research-ers, the park offers a naturallaboratory in which to studythe intricate relationships be-
tween the birds and their envi-ronment. For birds, the park of-fers refuge and shelter in a worldwhere large tracts of unalteredhabitat are rapidly disappearing.
In recognition of the park’s di-versity of bird species, and its op-portunities for education andconservation through research,the American Bird Conservancylast year named Big Bend as a Glo-bally Important Bird Area.
An important aspect of theIBA program is that it helps em-phasize conservation issues spe-cific to each site. In the Big Bendregion, air pollution, degradedwater quality and quantity in theRio Grande, and the invasion ofexotic plant and animal specieshave direct impacts on wildlifepopulations. With its overlay ofimportant designations, NationalPark, Biosphere Reserve, and nowGlobally Important Bird Area, BigBend National Park is able to mus-ter support and funding for re-search, monitoring, and protec-tion of the resources in its charge.
It would do us well to remem-ber though, that even this effort isnot always enough, that somethreads of the tapestry that is BigBend can, and do, break.
In 1901 in the Chisos Moun-tains, the great wildlife artist LouisAgassiz Fuertes, painted a portraitof a singular little quail endemic tothe desert southwest. Knownvariously as Mearn’s quail,
A Fool'sTale
been conspicuously absent fromthe Chisos Mountains.
Lingering over the last fewsips of coffee, reluctant to leavethe parade of birds appearing inthe yard, I spy one, then two, thenmore scaled quail. One lone birdmakes a tentative approach towater, the rest waiting undercover. Finally, all make the breakand come to drink. Watchingfrom the window, for a momentI see not the little “cottontops,”but rather the boldly patternedHarlequin. But in a blink, they aregone. Just as surely gone as theMexican gray wolf, the desertbighorn sheep, the aplomado fal-con, and others unknown. A grimthought, but…Mexican graywolves are being returned to NewMexico, aplomado falcons flyagain over the Texas coastal plain,and bighorns are settling in nextdoor at the state Black Gap wild-life area. Perhaps one day the little“Fool” quail will again haunt thedry hillsides of the Chisos Moun-tains.
Montezuma quail, or “Fool”quail, it had already disappearedfrom the El Paso region by 1883.By 1901, it was fading from Cen-tral Texas. By the 1930s the “Fool”quail was already rare in theChisos Mountains. By the 1960s,in spite of almost 20 years of “pro-tection” in a national park, it wasapparently gone from the BigBend and confined to the DavisMountains of Jeff Davis County,and the Glass and Del NorteMountains of northern BrewsterCounty. In the early 1970’s, orni-thologist Harry Oberholser wasmoved to write, “In Texas, theHarlequin quail has almostreached that great destination ofall earthly life: extinction."
The reasons for the quail’sdisappearance have been debatedover the years, but most certainly
habitat changefrom humandisturbance isat the root. The
quail requires open juniper/oakwoodlands and a ground coverof tall bunch grasses. Unlike otherquail, the Montezuma digsfor tubers and bulbsin deep, dry soil, andseldom flies or runswhen threatened.Instead it relieson its crypticcoloration tohide, crouchingsilently until thelast second, thenexploding from theground in a flurry ofwings. Of all the quailspecies, the Montezuma is themost intolerant of habitat alter-ation.
In the 1970s, staff at Big BendNational Park made an assess-ment that some areas of the ChisosMountains had recovered suffi-ciently to provide habitat for thequail again. In 1973, 26 quail fromthe Santa Rita Mountains in Ari-zona were released in Pine Can-yon. Hopes were high. Surveys inthe years following the release lo-cated small numbers of the quailbut by 1979, none were found.The last accepted sighting was in1983. In the ensuing nearly twentyyears, Montezuma quail have
by Park RangerMark Flippo
Page 2Page 2Page 2Page 2Page 2 The Big Bend The Big Bend The Big Bend The Big Bend The Big Bend PAISANOPAISANOPAISANOPAISANOPAISANO
The National Park Service was es-tablished on August 25, 1916. . .“to conserve the scenery and thenatural and historic objects andthe wildlife. . . and to provide for
the enjoyment of the same in such manner andby such means as will leave them unimpairedfor the enjoyment of future generations.” Asconservation educators, the Division of Inter-pretation provides guided walks, talks, eveningslide programs, workshops, and other educa-tional activities as well as written materialssuch as this newspaper.
The Big Bend Natural History As-sociation, established in 1956 as aprivate, non-profit organization,champions the mission of the Na-tional Park Service in facilitating
popular interpretation of the scenic, scientific,and historic values of Big Bend and encouragesresearch related to those values. The Associa-tion conducts seminars and publishes, prints,or otherwise provides books, maps, and inter-pretive materials on the Big Bend region. Pro-ceeds fund exhibits, films, interpretive pro-grams, seminars, museum activities, and re-search.
Credits
Welcome Bienvenidos
Name:___________________________
Address:_________________________
City:_____________________________
State, Zip:________________________
Mail check or money order payable to BigBend Natural History Assoc. to The Big BendPaisano, P.O. Box 196, Big Bend NationalPark, TX 79834. Or call (915) 477-2236.
Printed on recycled paper.
National Park ServiceEditor, Tom VandenBerg, Park Ranger
Chief Naturalist, Lisa BigleySuperintendent, Frank Deckert
History AssociationExecutive Director, Mike BorenSales Manager, Sarah Bourbon
Assistant Sales Manager, Barbara HinesVisitor Services Assistant, Anita Johnson
Big Bend Natural
The Big Bend Paisano, is published by the NationalPark Service and the Big Bend Natural History As-sociation for the orientation and education of visitorsto Big Bend National Park.
Volume XXIII# 1 Spring 2002
Message From the Superintendent
Subscribe
On matters relating to this publication write:National Park Service, Editor, The Big Bend
Paisano, P.O. Box 129, Big Bend National Park, TX79834 (915) 477-1196 [email protected]
Frank J. DeckertSuperintendente
Contributors
Welcome to Big Bend National Park andthe Rio Grande Wild and Scenic River, twounique areas of the U.S. National Park Sys-tem in the state of Texas. At over 800,000acres, Big Bend National Park encompassesthe largest protected area of the ChihuahuanDesert in the United States. The Chihua-huan Desert is the largeston the North Americancontinent, extendingfrom Old Mexico to NewMexico. The Rio Grandeis the major lifeline in thisdesert and for 1,250 milesalong the southernboundary of Texas, itforms the internationalboundary between theUnited States and Mexico.One hundred ninety-sixmiles of this section of theRio Grande have beendesignated as the RioGrande Wild & ScenicRiver.
Spring in Big Bend is always a flurry ofactivity. Plants are blooming, birds are mi-grating, and park visitors are streaming infrom every state. During your explorations,remember that Big Bend National Park ismuch more than merely campgrounds andhiking trails. For many species, it is a vitalsanctuary where they are making a last standat survival. In this issue we explore some ofthese special life forms that make Big Bendone of the most diverse and fascinating ofour National Parks.
Bienvenidos al Parque Nacional Big Bendy el Silvestre y Escénico Río Grande, dosáreas únicas del sistema estadounidense deparques nacionales dentro del estado deTexas. Con un tamaño de más de 800,000acres, el Parque Nacional Big Bend encuadrael área protegida más grande del desierto
Chihuahuense dentro delos Estados Unidos. Eldesierto Chihuahuense esel más grande de NorteAmérica, extendiendo deMéxico a Nuevo México.El Río Grande es la fuentede vida de este desierto, ysobre 1250 millas sirvecomo la fronterainternacional entre losEstados Unidos yMéxico. Ciento noventay seis millas de este río sondesignados como elSilvestre y Escénico RíoGrande.
El verano en Big Bend siempre es untiempo muy atareado. Las plantas florecen,las aves migran, y los visitantes al parquevienen de todos estados. Durante susexploraciones, recuerden que el parquenacional Big Bend es mucho más quecampamentos y senderos. Para muchasespecies, es un santuario vital donde semantienen en una lucha para sobrevivir. Coneste número enfocamos en algunas de éstasespecies que se hace a Big Bend uno de losparques mas diversos y interesantes.
Each year, volunteers contribute thousands of hours to the National ParkService. A vital supplement to paid staff, volunteers bring special skills, dedi-cation, and fresh approaches to our work in interpretation, visitor protection,maintenance, administration, and resource management.
Join us in thanking the following individuals and organizations whohave recently donated 100 or more hours in volunteer service to Big Bend:
Sharon Collyer, Joselyn Fenstermacher,Mark Flippo, Gail Fox, Mary Kay Manning,
Tom VandenBerg, Angelina Yost
$ 4.00 per year (3 issues)
Superintendent Deckert
Frank J. DeckertPark Superintendent
AmeriCorps-NCCCHenry & Patty BanksBill & Barbara BaldwinRichard & Penny BarkerJim BogueWill BradleyRoyce & Royann BrockettCharles & Sue CottinghamErwin & Sharon DrabekJennifer DyerGeorge & Harriet Eggleston
Mike & Susannah LaingJustin GoldwaterRichard & Kay GordonBob & Carol HuberSteve HarperRalph & Jackie HeadleeJim & Ginny Herrick
Bernie & Fran HeymanJack & Joan LamkinDan LeavittKathy Martinelli-ZaunEd & Twyla MaxwellSteve McAllisterHeather McCarthyBob OdessLes & Dana OverSophie QuinnellTom & Dori RamsayJessica SherwoodBob & Carol SchemmJim & Frances StewartWayne StrevelMeg Thomson
Big Bend's 2002AMERICORPS-NCCC Crew
"Earth 5"
The Big BendThe Big BendThe Big BendThe Big BendThe Big Bend PAISANOPAISANOPAISANOPAISANOPAISANO Page 3Page 3Page 3Page 3Page 3
The Big Bend Natural History Association is a non-profit organization established to support the park's educational andscientific programs. BBNHA also publishes and distributes books, maps, guides, newspapers and other materials designed
to enhance visitors' enjoyment and understanding of Big Bend National Park.
The Earth SpeaksIts voice is in the shape of anew leaf, the feel of a water-worn stone, the color of theevening sky. That voice iscaptured here in the wordsand images of those whohave listened with theirhearts, including Henry David Thoreau,John Muir, Rachel Carson, Edward Abbey,Aldo Leopold, and many others. $12.95
Bird Tracks & SignThis richly-illustrated full-color guide—the first of its kind for North Americanbirds—offers thor-ough and straight-forward instruc-tions for identifyingbird families or spe-cies by examinationof the unique signsthey leave in the wild.Includes tracks andtrails, nests, feathers,pellets, skull, andmore, $34.95
Desert EcologyExplore the life cycle of the yucca and
creosote bush, tracethe wanderings ofthe tenebrionidbeetle, and breathe inthe rhythms of thedesert at night. Thisbook explores howdesert plants and ani-mals live where theydo—the physiologicand behavioral adap-tations that enableplants and animals to
survive in such inhospitable places. Writ-ten not for the specialist but for everyone.$17.95
Butterflies ofWest Texas Parksand PreservesNew from former BigBend Chief NaturalistRoland Wauer, this bookdescribes and illustratesthe 50 most common but-terflies of the region with
glorious photographs, along with 11 “spe-cialties” unique to the region. Includes achecklist. 78 pages $17.95
Big Bend Natural History Association
Thanks for your generous support,Mike BorenExecutive Director
After America was attacked on September11, 2001, many people involved with tourismfeared that the public would not travel andrevenues would suffer. Here in Big Bend Na-tional Park we didn’t know what to think.Would people travel less, or wouldpeople travel more domestically?Would our visitation be hurt orwould it increase? Would there besecurity fears because we share aborder with Mexico?
Well, the answer is in, and thenews is encouraging. Big Bend Natu-ral History Association operates thebookstores in all the visitor centers atBig Bend National Park and Amistad Na-tional Recreation Area, and our sales are up!Revenues increased almost 35% in thefirst quarter of our fiscal year (Octo-ber through December) and bothJanuary and February sales are alsoup over the same months last year.
What a wonderfully diverse andresilient country we live in! In a coun-try wise enough to set aside naturalwonderlands such as these for the en-joyment of future generations, we nowsee a whole range of behaviors ex-pressing optimism, not fear, and hope,not despair. Beginning even as soon as
October, visitors flocked to Big Bend, perhapsas a place to collect their thoughts and ponderwhat had happened.
Big Bend Natural History Association ap-plauds the American public and the heroes who
have risen from their ranks to meet thischallenge: the policemen, firefighters,rescue workers, military personnel,Border Patrol agents, National ParkRangers, politicians, and, yes, eventhe visitors to our parks. Our visitorsare more than our lifeblood; they are
our friends and neighbors and fellowcitizens. Their refusal to be cowered
by mad threats of violence tells me weare as good as we ever were and answers
once and for all any questions that may havelingered about the strength of diversity.
In this place, one need look no farther thanthe desert which surrounds us to see that a di-verse community is a strong and resilient com-munity. In this nation one need look no farther
than one’s neighbors to see thatstrength on display
Surround yourself with the abundant and diverse natural and humanhistory of Big Bend. Our bookstores offer a wealth of books, maps,checklists, and field guides carefully selected to help you enjoy yourvisit to Big Bend National Park.
Stop by any visitor center, or order these online at www.bigbendbookstore.org
Featured Publications
April 5 Colors of Big BendDana Schoppa
April 6 WildflowersJohn Mac Carpenter
April 7 Big Cats in Big BendGilbert Guzman
April 14 WildflowersJohn Mac Carpenter
April 20 Trans-Pecos ReptilesAlan Tennant
April 26-28 Desert BirdsRoland Wauer
April 30-31 Cacti of Big BendRoland Wauer
May 3-5 Desert ButterfliesRoland Wauer
May 11-12 Birding Big BendKelly Bryan
May 18 Big Bend BatsJana Higgenbotham
May 26 Desert SurvivalTBA
Sept. 28-29 Birding Big BendKelly Bryan
October 12 Big Bend 101Sam Richardson
November 9 Black BearsRaymond Skiles
November 10 Tracking in the DesertBilly Pat McKinney
November 16 Geology Jeep TourBill Bourbon
November 17 Dinosaurs!Anthony Fiorillo
March 23-24 ArcheologyJoe Labadie
May 4-5 Living off the LandDr. Phil Dering
To register for a seminar or to receive acomplete catalog , contact BBNHA at POBox 196, Big Bend National Park, TX, 79834or call 915-477-2236. You may also e-mailus at [email protected]
Geology, Birding, Snakes, Wildflowers,and Lions are some of the highlights of the2002 Big Bend Seminars Program. Now inits 14th year, the immensely popular pro-gram conducted by BBNHA continues togrow and improve. This year, a total of 21seminars in Big Bend National Park, and 2 atAmistad National Recreation Area will bepresented by experts in a variety of fields.
Big BendSeminars
2002 Seminar Schedule
Average cost for a seminar is $50 per daywith most seminars running 1-2 days. Classsize is limited to 15 participants to ensureindividualized instruction. Seminar partici-pants may also take advantage of free camp-ing in one of Big Bend's group campgrounds.
Big Bend National Park
Amistad National Recreation Area
Take A Closer Look!
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When black bears naturally returned to Big Bend from Mexico inthe late 1980s, there were many unanswered questions that arose.Which Mexican mountains did they come from? What population sizecould the park hold? Were they all related? Was there enough geneticdiversity to ensure their longterm survival? For the last four years,researchers from the National Park Service, US Geological Survey, and
Oklahoma State University have delved into the secrets ofthis remote population of bears. Upon carefully trapping,radio-collaring, tracking, and conducting genetic tests,
many of these questions are finally being answered.The analysis of mitochondrial DNA is now com-
plete. This genetic "fingerprint" is passedon from mother to cubs and has allowedresearchers to recreate a family tree forpark bears. The study determined the
number of haplotypes. Haplotypes areDNA indicators of relatedness. The more
haplotypes in a population, the more ge-netically diverse it is. Tissue samples weretaken from 144 bears in seven differentpopulations from the Chisos and nearbymountain ranges in Mexico.
Of all bears studied, five haplotypeswere identified. Big Bend bears included
representatives of only two types. Inter-estingly, all Big Bend females and theiroffspring were of only one type. This in-dicates the Big Bend population could bedescended from as few as one or twofemales. The same type was found only
in bears from the Serranias del BurroMountains, in Coahuila, Mexico. Thisconfirms that the female founder(s)came from Northern Coahuila. Thesecond lineage identified in Big Bend
National Park News
Magnificent sunsets, fierysunrises, and the continuouslychanging play of light on theD e a d h o r s eMountains arenow visiblefrom yourhome com-puter!
Log ontothe official BigBend NationalPark Website andyou can see whatpark employees get to seeeveryday...the view lookingsoutheast from park headquar-ters, updated every 15 minutes.
Although invaluable inbringing Big Bend's scenery intoyour home, the purpose of this
Live Park WebcamA new view every 15 minutes!
webcam goes way beyond justp r o v i d i n g pretty pictures.
There are greatconcernsoverBig Bend's de-teriorating airquality. Thiswebcam is oneof many in-s t r u m e n t snow con-t i n u o u s l ymonitoring
visibility in the park. Site visi-tors can now access real-timereadings on visibility, ozone lev-els, and even archived images ofeach day.
Click over to www.nps.gov/bibe and check it out!
Help Us To Protect Your Falcons
Peregrine
The jet-fighter of the birdworld, a peregrine falcon wheels
through the sky at speeds ap-proaching 200 miles per hour
and many park visitors hopefor even a glimpse of thismajestic aerialist. Once at thebrink of extinction, falconsare staging a comeback inmany areas. In Texas,however, there are lessthan twelve nesting pairs,and the birds remain on
was found only in adult males that were not offspring of residentfemales and were probably migrants born elsewhere.
Big Bend bears in the study were highly related. In fact, the north-ern Tex/Mex population includes fewer haplotypes than reported inany other regional black bear population. This may not necessarily bea cause for alarm. Park bears appear to be relatively mobile. During lastyear's drought conditions, the majority of park bears migrated back toMexico and later returned after the rains came. This migration to andfrom Mexican mountains, if uninterrupted in the future, should en-sure the genetic health of the park population.
More than anything else, these results prove the importance ofeach isolated “island” population to the future of the Tex/Mex bearpopulation. To maintain the small, isolated populations in Big Bendand Mexico, protection is required and bear movements must not beimpeded by human activity and development. Results from this studywill help Big Bend National Park successfully provide a home for bearslong into the future .
the state's endangeredspecies list. Last year, onlyseven young fledgedfrom Big Bend nests.Falcons are known toabandon active nests ateven the smallestamount of human dis-turbance. To ensure dis-turbance-free nesting, the parkhas temporarily closed certain ar-eas to all public entry.
www.nps.gov/bibe
Surf Big Bend Official NPSWebsite
Live Web-camDaily WeatherRiver LevelsCampgroundsResearch
Live Web-camDaily WeatherRiver LevelsCampgroundsResearch
BackcountryPark MapsPress ReleasesRoad ConditionsRanger ProgramsWhat's Blooming?Bird SightingsPhoto Gallery
BackcountryPark MapsPress ReleasesRoad ConditionsRanger ProgramsWhat's Blooming?Bird SightingsPhoto Gallery
...and more!
View the Sierra del Carmen...
LIVE!
The National ParksPass costs just $50 andcovers entrance feesinto all National ParkService areas for 12months from the dateof purchase.
Black Bear GeneticsA Family Affair
Get Your Passports Here...Already paid $10 to enter Big Bend NP? You may exchange your current validentrance receipt for a variety of passports:
All U.S. citizens aged 62 or older are eligible for the Golden AgePassport which costs $10 and allows free entry into all National ParkService areas and 1/2 price camping.
If you visit Big Bend several times each year, you may want toconsider purchasing a $20 Big Bend Annual Pass which covers allentrance fees to Big Bend National Park for 12 full months.
• Casa Grande above 6,600'• Southeast Rim Trail• Northeast Rim to campsite NE-4
• 1/4 mile of the Santa Elena Cyn Rim• 1/4 mile of the Mariscal Canyon Rim
Feb 1 - Jul 15
Falcon nesting Zones:shhh...nesting in progress
The Big BendThe Big BendThe Big BendThe Big BendThe Big Bend PAISANOPAISANOPAISANOPAISANOPAISANO Page 5Page 5Page 5Page 5Page 5
thorny mesquite bushes, anotherresult of pre-park agriculturalpractices, are being thinnedthrough active removal and pre-scribed burning to allow the re-establishment of wetland grasses.
Thus far, the wetland resto-
Big Bend Mosquitofish
A Special Little Fish
The Big Bend mosquitofish(Gambusia gaigei) is not a
particularly impressive fish at firstglance. This small, minnow-sized creature seems rather ordi-nary. Nothing could be furtherfrom the truth, however. Themosquitofish is actually an en-dangered species whose onlyhabitat in the wild is a few warm-water springs at Rio Grande Vil-lage in Big Bend National Park.No where else in theworld is this animalfound naturally.So precarious isits existence,that at one pointthe entire mos-q u i t o - f i s hpopulation wasdown to justthree individuals.The fight to savethis special fish hasbeen going on for decades,culminating in a current habitatrestorationproject thatwill hope-fully in-crease itschances for survival.
The decline of themosquitofish can be attributedto both natural and human-caused factors. Scientists thinkthe fish thrived long ago whenBig Bend had a much wetter cli-mate. As this area dried out overtime, its habitat was severely lim-ited. Early farming efforts beforethe park was established alsocontributed to the decline. Cropfields, irrigation ditches, androads eliminated the wetlandhabitat. Even early Park Servicepractices hurt the situation withthe development of paved roads,a picnic area, and a maintenanceyard in prime mosquitofish habi-tat. It wasn’t until the 1960’s thatthe Park Service realized that themosquitofish was on the verge ofextinction and began efforts tosave it.
Today, a 10-acre wetland areacontaining two springs, runoff
channels, a beaver pond,and two constructedponds constitutes thecore mosquitofish habi-tat. The fragile fish arehighly adapted to warm waterspring conditions not found inother water sources of the region.It is essential to restore and en-hance as much available habitat aspossible. To that end, in 1999 BigBend began a wetland restora-
tion project funded by theNational Park Service
Water ResourcesDivision. The pri-mary goal of theproject is to in-crease surfacespring water toprovide additional
mosquitofish habi-tat. To do that, the
park began by remov-ing an asphalt road and
picnic area and recontouring thesoil to better retain water. A water
p i p e l i n e ,power line,and a main-tenance fa-cility were
also relocated out of the wetlandarea. Aerial photos, detailed to-pographic mapping, and soilanalysis were key to understand-ing the former extent of the wet-lands and determining the scopeof the current project.
The next phase in the habitatrestoration is revegetation. Thisincludes transplanting plantsfrom nearby areas and also grow-ing new plants from seed. Thepark elementary school operatesa greenhouse to propagate nativeplants for restoration projects andhas played an integral role in thewetland revegetation effort. Forthis project, transplants includewetland grasses, cottonwoods,willows, baccharis, and cattails.In addition to replanting, non-native plant species like tamarisk,palm trees, buffelgrass, andrabbit’s-foot grass must be re-moved to avoid over-running thenative species. Dense thickets of
Following an afternoon rain,the thunder rolls away and thewarm Big Bend night fills with asymphony of chirping sounds.In the Chisos Mountains, this
chirping noise may not only be the sound of insects, but may also bethe territorial and mating call of the elusive spotted chirping frog,Syrrhophus guttilatus.
This small frog spends most of its life nestled deep inside rockcrevices where it finds pockets of moisture. With a somewhat flat-tened head and body, this frog can really squeeze deep into remotecracks and out of the hot sun. Unique among park amphibians, thisfrog develops from tadpole to adulthood within the protection andmoisture of its egg membrane. This direct development allows thefrog to be independent ofwater sources. It is an idealadaptation for the dry con-ditions of Big Bend NationalPark.
Although this spottedchirping frog has historicallybeen considered a relict spe-cies, recent research mayprove otherwise. A relictspecies is one that once hada larger distribution due to a past climate that was quite different thanthe present one. Eight thousand years ago, the climate of Big Bendwas wetter and cooler than it is today. As the area gradually warmed,plants and animals that were better adapted to the cooler conditionswere restricted to higher elevations. The spotted chirping frog, thequaking aspen, the Douglas fir, and the Carmen Mountain white-tail deer are examples of relict species found in the Chisos Moun-tains.
Since the spotted chirping frog is also found in the mountains ofDurango, Mexico, it is thought that the distribution of the spottedchirping frog once extended to the lower elevations that joined thesetwo mountain ranges. However, there has been recent speculationthat the frogs in the Chisos may not be Syrrhophus guttilatus, butactually the mottled cliff chirping frog, Syrrhophus marnockii, com-monly found throughout the Texas hill country. At the moment,researchers are looking at the similarity of the calls, the geneticmakeup, and the morphology of the animals to consider the rela-tionship of the frog to either species.
Regardless of the name, this chirping frog isone of many reasons why the Chisos, a moun-tain island in a desert sea, is a valuable outdoor laboratory for furtherresearch, and a valuable refuge for relict species.
Park elementary school studentsplanting native grasses at the
restoration site
The ChisosChirper
by Park RangerAngelina Yost
by Park RangerGail Fox
...at one point the entiremosquitofish population was
down to just three individuals.
Back Fromthe BrinkWetland Project RestoringVital Habitat
ration project has been very suc-cessful and the park has great hopefor expanding the mosquitofishhabitat in the future. Threats tothe fish still abound, however,and constant vigilance is requiredto keep them safe. Because thepopulation is so small and clus-tered, a seemingly minor envi-ronmental change could exter-minate the species from the wild.Because of its highly endangeredstatus, the park must continue tobe actively involved with the BigBend mosquitofish. Habitat res-toration is an important part ofproviding sanctuary for the con-tinued recovery of a species that istrying to return from the verybrink of extinction.
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Big Bend Bears
If Big Bend had a symbol, it might well be themountain lion--the embodiment of free-
dom and wildness. Solitary and secretive, thismighty creature is the unquestioned lord ofits natural world. As one of Big Bend’s toppredators, Felis concolor—"cat all of onecolor"—is vital in maintaining the park’s bio-logical diversity. Within the delicate habitatsof the Chihuahuan Desert, mountain lionshelp balance herbivores (animals that eatplants) and vegetation. Research shows thatcats help keep deer and javelina within thelimits of their food resources. Without lions,the complex network of life in Big Bend wouldcertainly be changed.
Encountering a mountain lion, however,can lead to conflicts in maintaining the bal-ance between natural processes and visitorenjoyment and safety. Since the 1950s, therehave been more than 800 sightings of moun-tain lions by visitors. While over 90 percent ofthese sightings were along park roadways,encounters along trails have also occurred.Since 1984, three lion and human encountershave resulted in attacks on people. In all cases,those attacked recovered from their injuriesand the aggressive lions were killed, prevent-ing them from playing out their importantnatural roles. The more we know about lions,and the less we seek an encounter, the betterable we will be to make life easier for them andfor us.
How much do you really know about thispowerful and wild cat? Mountain lions livethroughout the park, including the ChisosMountains where they prefer to use trails.Your chances of encountering an aggressivelion are remote. What can you do to minimizethe consequences of an encounter? Avoidhiking alone or at dusk or dawn. Watch chil-dren closely; never let them run ahead of you.If you encounter a lion, we suggest:
Living Safely with Black Bears
Like all predators, the lion’s role is a partof the health and welfare of the entire ecosys-tem. Research and further human under-standing of the cat’s habits pave the way forconservation efforts in its behalf. As we dis-cover more about the lion, we fear it less andappreciate it more. For many visitors, justseeing a track, or just knowing lions are outthere, will be reward enough.
DON'T RUN!• Do not crouch down; the lion has seen you
long before you saw it.• Hold your ground, wave your hands, shout!
If the lion behaves aggressively, throwstones.
• Convince the lion that you are not prey andthat you may be dangerous yourself.
• If you have small children with you,pick them up anddo all you canto appear large.
• Report allsightings toa park ranger.
Keep Wildlife Wild
The return of black bears to Big BendNational Park is a success story
for both the bears and the park.Native to the Chisos Mountains,bears disappeared from this areaduring the pre-park settlement era.After an absence of several decades,bears began returning to the park fromMexico in the early 1990s.
Today, wildlife biologists estimatethat up to 12 black bears may live in thepark. Though they prefer the woodedChisos Mountains, bears also rangealong the Rio Grande and throughoutthe desert, particularly when droughtdries up their regular water sourcesin the mountains.
Black bears are omnivorous. Theyeat large amounts of nuts, fruits, sotoland yucca hearts, insects, and smallerquantities of eggs, small mammals, rep-tiles, amphibians, honey, and carrion.Their strong sense of smell also leads them tohuman foods, and they can quickly opencoolers, backpacks, and trash cans when en-ticed by food odors.
Bears normally avoid humans, but bearsthat learn to get food from human sourcesoften become ag-gressive in their at-tempts to get more“people” food.When humansdisobey the rules ofboth the park andnature by feedingbears, it is the bearsthat end up payingthe ultimate price.Park staff may haveto kill bears thatlose their fear ofpeople and endan-ger humans in theirattempts to get ourfood. Fortunately,Big Bend has nothad to kill anybears, but someother nationalparks destroy sev-eral bears each sea-son; we hope thatthrough educatingpark visitors aboutproper behavior inbear country, wecan avoid thistragic outcome.
Big Bend hasmade it easy to keepedible items awayfrom bears. Camp-ers at the ChisosBasin Camp-ground, at HighChisos backpack-ing sites, and atsome primitiveroadside campsites
In the Basin Campground•Store food, beverages, trash, toiletries, petfood, and dishes in the bearproof storagelocker provided at your site.•Keep your campsite clean. Take trash andfood scraps to a dumpster.•Dump liquids in restroom utility sinks, not onthe ground.•Ice chests and coolers are not bear-proof;store them in your vehicle.
Cyclists•Use food storage lockers where provided.At the lodge•Leave nothing outside your room, on thebalcony, or on the porch.When hiking•Never leave packs or food unattended.•Avoid carrying odorous food and toiletries.•Leave excess food and beverages in yourtrunk or food storage box if not taking themwith you.
•Carry out all trash, including orange peels,cigarette butts, and left-over food.
If you see a bear...•Keep a safe distance.•Do not approach, follow, or feed a bear.•If a bear approaches, scare it away byshouting, waving arms, or throwing objects.
•Look for cubs. If present, back away slowly.•Report all bear sightings and incidents to a Ranger.
Living With BearsLiving With BearsLiving With BearsLiving With BearsLiving With BearsLiving With BearsLiving With BearsLiving With BearsLiving With BearsLiving With Bears
Regulations arestrictly enforced!
Keep them wild
will find bearproof storage lockers for storingall edibles. Hard-sided vehicles are also suit-
able for storing ed-ible items. Alldumpsters in theChisos Mountainsdeveloped areas arebearproof, as well.And remember, abear’s definition ofan “edible” is farbroader than ours;lock up sunscreen,skin lotion, tooth-paste, soap, andother toiletrieswhose odors mightattract wildlife.
There really areno problem bears-only problempeople. Careless-ness can kill. Don’tbe responsible forthe death of a bear.Follow the guide-lines at left in the“Living WithBears” box. Payclose attention tothe food storagerules posted in theBasin campgroundand on your back-packing permit.Your actions affectboth Big Bend’swildlife and futurepark visitors. Withyour help, bears andhumans CAN livesafely together.
Mountain LionCountry
The Big BendThe Big BendThe Big BendThe Big BendThe Big Bend PAISANOPAISANOPAISANOPAISANOPAISANO Page 7Page 7Page 7Page 7Page 7
Rare Bats
Wings in the NIGHTRare bats depend on Big Bend NP
Big Bend National Park ishome to more species of bats
than any other national park. Infact, almost half of the 45 speciesof bats found in the U.S. can befound here. Many are fairly nu-merous, easily seen and some-times even heard as they fly onwarm nights. Of the twenty spe-cies of bats found in Big BendNational Park, three are of spe-cial concern to researchers. Parkstaff and bat biologists pay closeattention to Mexican long-nosed bats, Townsend’s big-eared bats, and western yellowbats.
Mexican long-nosed bats(Leptonycteris nivalis) are fed-erally listed as an endangeredspecies because of the threatsthey face in Mexico, wherepeople often disturb or evendestroy their roosting caves inmisguided attempts to eradicatevampire bats. Confusing theseharmless nectar-feeding batswith vampires, people there of-ten kill these bats and other ben-eficial bats. Loss of food sourcesalso imperils the long-nosedbats, as people harvest centuryplants , the bats’ primary nectarsource , for human and livestockconsumption.
Mexican long-nosed batsare the only nectar-feeding batsfound in Big Bend National Park.They are the primary pollinatorsof the park's century plants, sincethey carry pollen from flower toflower as they feed on the richnectar. Researchers estimate thatwithout these bats, century plantreproduction in the park mightdrop to 1/300 of what it is today.Century plants play importantroles in the high desert ecosys-tem; in addition to providingfood for the bats, they also pro-vide food and shelter for nu-merous species of insects andbirds. None of these thingswould be possible without thenectar-feeding bats and theirpollination services.
Long-nosed bats visit BigBend National Park only during
the summer, when the centuryplants bloom. While here, theyroost in a single large crevice highin the Chisos Mountains. This isthe only known roosting site inthe U.S. Protecting this site from
disturbance is vitally impor-tant to the survival of the
bats, the centuryplants, and every-thing else that de-
pends on the century plantsfor survival. Park staff monitorboth the bats and the centuryplants each summer, trying to es-timate the status of the bats andthe food available to them.
Townsend’s big-eared bats(Corynorhinus townsendii) arefound throughout Big Bend Na-tional Park. These bats are highlysensitive to disturbance. If awak-ened during their hibernation,they will use up vital body fat nec-essary to their winter survival andmay starve to death before spring.Any disruptions to maternitycolonies may even cause femalesto abandon their offspring.
One of the largest maternitycolonies in the entire U.S. existsdeep within the shafts and tunnelsof the Mariscal Mine. In the late1970s, park staff began to closemany of the mine entrances withfencing to protect adventurouspark visitors from unstable walls,deep pits, and mercury dust, butlittle thought was given to the batsthat relied on the mines for roost-ing. Poorly designed closuresmade it difficult for bats to enterand exit their roosting sites.
In the early 1990s, park man-agement recognized the need tochange the closures on the mineshafts to improve both visitorsafety and bat access. Park staffworked with bat biologists to de-
Western yellow bats, however,prefer to roost under the deadhanging branches of palm trees.Here in Big Bend National Park,these bats have switched toroosting under the dead hang-ing leaves of yuccas. These batsseem to have adapted quite wellto using yuccas in place of palmtrees.
The presence of this new batspecies in the park leads re-searchers and park staff to won-der what prompted these ani-mals to expand their range intothis area. Perhaps their numbershave increased beyond whattheir traditional habitat can sup-port, so they are searching fornew suitable habitat. Perhapstheir habitat is declining due todevelopment, prompting themto flee that area and resettle intomarginal areas in west Texas. Ithas even been suggested thatglobal warming will cause an in-crease in the number of tree-roosting bats moving into westTexas.
There is still much that wedon’t know about some of theserare bats. Their nocturnal activ-ity, their hidden roosting sites,their migratory habits, and thechallenging terrain in which theyoften live make them difficult tostudy. Here in Big Bend NationalPark, all three of these bat speciescan find the necessary food, shel-ter, and other habitat compo-nents that they need to survive.Outside the park, where they maybe subject to disturbance and lossof habitat, they face a more un-certain future.
sign and install “bat gates” acrossthe multiple entrances of this mine.These gates prevent humans fromentering, but allow the bats to flyin and out relatively unimpeded.These were among the first batgates installed in any national park,and they serve as an excellent ex-ample of both visitor and resourceprotection.
The western yellow bat(Lasiurus xanthinus) has only re-cently been found here. Its tradi-tional range is in western Mexicoand southern parts of Arizona and
California, but in 1996, bat re-searchers caught one flying over aspring in Big Bend National Park.This established a new species notonly for the park but also for Texas.Prior to this find, the closest thesebats were known to occur to thepark was 120 miles away in Mexico.As of winter 2002, ten western yel-low bats have been found in thepark, as well as five more in otherparts of west Texas.
Most bats found in the parkcan be found roosting in caves,mines, buildings, or under bridges.
January 61/35 .46February 66/34 .34March 77/45 .31April 81/52 .70May 88/59 1.50June 94/66 1.93July 93/68 2.09August 91/66 2.35September 86/62 2.12October 79/53 2.27November 66/42 .70December 62/36 .57
How Hot?
Temperatures in the Chisos Basin vary 5-10 degrees below these readings, while day-
time temperatures along the Rio Grande average 5-10 degrees warmer.
Avg.High/Low Avg.Rainfall"
79/47 15.34"yearly average:
Panther Junctionelevation 3,750 feet
by Park RangerMary Kay Manning
Bat Gate over a deep shaft at Mariscal Mine
Nectar Lovers
A Maternity Ward
A New Arrival
Bat Gates
with special thanks to Mike Dixon,Loren Ammerman, and Brian Keeley
Page 8Page 8Page 8Page 8Page 8 The Big Bend The Big Bend The Big Bend The Big Bend The Big Bend PAISANOPAISANOPAISANOPAISANOPAISANO
You've driven many miles to get here, and have finally arrived at your destination:Big Bend National Park. But now what? Now that you’re here, how do you spend your
time? Where should you go? What should you explore? The park is big, and often visitors havea limited amount of time to explore.
If time allows, drive to the ChisosMountains to take in the spectacularmountain views. Walk the 0.3-mile self-guiding Window View Trail to get a feel forthe mountain scenery.
A trip along the Ross Maxwell ScenicDrive will give you a taste of the Chihua-huan Desert and will lead you to the RioGrande. There are scenic overlooks andexhibits along the way. Sotol Vista, MuleEars Overlook and Tuff Canyon are allworthwhile stops. The short walks to theSam Nail (Old) Ranch and Homer Wilson(Blue Creek) Ranch and a visit to theCastolon Historic District will give you aglimpse into Big Bend’s past.
A highlight is the short (1.6-mile roundtrip) walk into Santa Elena Canyon—oneof Big Bend’s most scenic spots. Drive tothe end of the Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive toaccess the trailhead. You may return to themain road by returning on the Ross Max-well Drive or on the Maverick Road, a 13-mile gravel road linking the Ross MaxwellDrive to the Maverick (west) Entrance. Al-ways check on road conditions first.
With three days to spend in the park, youcan explore the major roads more thoroughlyand still have time for hiking. In the Basin area,consider hiking the Window Trail (5 milesround trip) or the Lost Mine Trail (4.8 milesround trip); consult the Hiker’s Guide to Trailsof Big Bend National Park, for sale in parkvisitor centers, for trail descriptions.
In addition to the Basin and Ross Max-well Scenic Drive (see suggestions for “oneday”) you can drive to Rio Grande Village,perhaps stopping at Dugout Wells along theway to walk the short Chihuahuan DesertNature Trail. The Rio Grande Village VisitorCenter offers a brief introductory slide pro-
gram. Walk the Rio Grande Village NatureTrail which begins near site #18 in the camp-ground. The bluff overlooking the Rio Grandeat the end of the nature trail is a particularlybeautiful spot at sunset.
Boquillas Canyon road will take you to anoverlook of the small village of Boquillas,Mexico, and to the border crossing. At theend of the road is the Boquillas CanyonTrail, which takes you to the entrance of thisspectacular canyon.
With a week or more to spend in BigBend, endless possibilities are open to you.You’ll have plenty of time to explore ther o a d sm e n -t i o n e din thep r e v i -o u ss e c -t i o n s ,and willalso have time to hike or to drive some of the“unimproved” dirt roads. For these, you’llneed a high clearance or four-wheel drivevehicle; don’t forget to check at the visitorcenters for current road conditions. TheRiver Road, Glenn Springs Road and OldOre Road are some of the more popularbackcountry routes. A visit to Ernst Tinajanear the south end of the Old Ore Road is aBig Bend highlight.
If you don’t have high clearance or four-wheel drive, gravel roads such as DaggerFlat, Grapevine Hills and Maverick will getyou “off the beaten path.” Hike the Chim-neys Trail, Mule Ears Trail, or GrapevineHills Trail for a closer look at the desertenvironment. If you'd like to explore theChisos Mountains, trails to Boot Canyon,Emory Peak and the South Rim offer goodviews of the park and take you into anotherworld which seems far removed from thedesert. There are plenty of opportunitiesfor overnight backpacking along these trails.A free backcountry use permit is requiredand can be obtained at park visitor centers.
One Day
Seeing The Park
Now That You'reHere, What Can
You Do?
Three Days One Week
If you have the time and a spirit ofadventure, you may want to con-sider a river trip. Seeing the park’scanyons from the middle of theRio Grande is both fascinatingand gratifying. There aremany possibilities, fromhalf-day floats to ex-
Float the Rio Grande
Grapevine Hills
tended seven-day excursions. ParkRangers can recommend a trip thatmeets your abilities and interests.Rafting and equipment rental
companies are listed on page15. See "BackcountryPlanning" on page 13 foradditional information onriver trips.
FloatingBoquillas Canyon
No matter how limited your time in BigBend, remember that you will enjoy the
park more if you stop your car and exploreon foot. That doesn’t mean that you have tohike miles on steep grades; there are manyshort, easy walks and roadside exhibits whereyou can stretch your legs and enjoy the sights,smells and sounds of the Chihuahuan Desert.
Hiker’s guides and road guides are avail-able at book sales areas throughout the park,and they offer more detailed information
about Big Bend’s trails and roads. Attendingranger-led activities and evening programsis also a good way to learn more about BigBend; check at the visitor centers and parkbulletin boards for current activities.
Remember, you don’t have to see every-thing this trip. You will probably enjoy thepark more if you choose a few spots andexplore them thoroughly to get a taste ofwhat Big Bend has to offer. Then, come backagain to see the rest!
Rio Grande Village
Here are some suggestions for seeing the park if you haveonly a limited amount of time to enjoy Big Bend.
Chisos Mountains
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Big Bend TrailsFrom the 7,825 foot summit of Emory Peak, to the banks ofthe meandering Rio Grande, visitors will find over 200 milesof hiking trails in Big Bend National Park. Trails range fromstrenuous primitive routes through rugged desertbackcountry to short handicapped-accessible pathways. What-ever your style of hiking, you can find it in abundance in Big Bend.
Experience Your America!
Chisos Mountains- Basin Area
Panther Junction -Rio Grande Village Area
Ross Maxwell Scenic Dr. -Castolon Area
Boquillas CanyonBoquillas CanyonBoquillas CanyonBoquillas CanyonBoquillas CanyonTrai lTra i lTra i lTra i lTra i l
Mule Ears PeaksMule Ears PeaksMule Ears PeaksMule Ears PeaksMule Ears Peaks
The Chisos Mountains form the ruggedheart of Big Bend National Park. High ridgesand summits coax moisture from passingclouds. The result is a forested mountain "is-land" surrounded by a desert sea.
When the lower desert trails become un-comfortably hot, enjoy the shady, pine-scented trails of the Chisos Mountains. AllChisos trails begin from the Basin area in thecenter of the park.
For a good introduction to the sceneryand wildlife of the Chisos, hike the WindowTrail. From the Basin Campground, this trailwinds two miles through colorful Oak CreekCanyon to the top of the Window pouroff.Wildlife is abundant along this trail. Look andlisten for javelina, white-tailed deer, andMexican jays. On the return trip, hike .25 milealong the Oak Spring Trail for one of thepark's best views.
Between Panther Junction and Rio GrandeVillage lies a vast sweep of scrub desert, rockyridges, and river floodplain. Sprinkledthrough this massive area are trails that high-light the fascinating natural and human his-
District. Drift back in time and imagine whatlife was like during the early 1900s when J.O.Langford developed this natural hot springinto a tiny health resort. A one-mile looptakes you past the old motel, post office,homestead, and foundation of the hot springbathhouse.
The Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive skirts therocky ramparts of the Chisos Mountains anddescends through the spectacular west side ofBig Bend National Park. Many of the park's
best viewpoints and desert hikes are along thisroad.
The Ross Maxwell Drive ends at thetrailhead to Santa Elena Canyon. There is nobetter trail to experience the sights and soundsof the Rio Grande. From the parking area, thegiant chasm is in full view before you. Hike to
the river's edge and follow it upstream into aworld of superlative cliffs and dense thicketsof riverside vegetation. Enjoy the sounds ofmoving water and the descending song of thecanyon wren.
Take A Hike!
Below are descriptions of many of the most popular easy and moderatehiking trails. Most of these trails are perfect for shorter day hikes of up toseveral hours. For information on longer, more difficult routes, or to plan anextended backpacking trip, stop by any park visitor center. A large selection ofmaps and trail guides are available and park rangers can assist you in trippreparations and backcountry permits.
tory of Big Bend. Discover Indian mortarholes in Boquillas Canyon and the early pio-neer settlements of Dugout Wells and HotSprings. Enjoy the diverse birdlife along theRio Grande and the rich geology at GrapevineHills.
One of the more popular areas in BigBend's east side, is the Hot Springs Historic
CommentsLength LocationTrail CommentsRoundtrip TrailheadLocationLength
Window View
Basin Loop
The Window
Lost Mine
0.3mile1.6
miles
5.6miles
4.8miles
Level, paved, handicapped accessible. Greatsunsets and mountain views.
Connects the Laguna Meadow and Pinnacles Trails.Climbs 350 feet through pine/oak woodland. Niceviews of the Basin area.Descends to the top of the Window pouroff. Greatscenery and wildlife viewing. Climbs 800 feet onreturn.
This magnificent hike climbs 1,100 feet to excellentmountain and desert views.
Chisos Basin Trailhead(near the Basin Store)
Chisos Basin Trailhead(near the Basin Store)
Chisos Basin Trailheador Basin Campground
Basin Road mile 5(at Panther Pass)
Trail CommentsRoundtrip TrailheadLocationLength
Grapevine Hills Roadmile 6
Follows a sandy wash through boulder field. A shortclimb at the end takes you to a large balanced rockarchway
2.2miles
Boquillas Canyon
Rio Grande VillageNature Trail
Hot Springs
Chihuahuan DesertNature Trail
Grapevine Hills
0.5miles
0.75miles
0.75miles
1.4miles
A flat desert path near a cottonwood oasis. Signsinterpret Chihuahuan Desert plant life.
Walk past historic buildings to the riverside hotsprings. 105oF water. Take a bathing suit and soak a while.
Cross a boardwalk and climb 125 feet to a greatpanoramic view of the river floodplain and distantmountains. Good birding and sunrise/sunset views.Begins with a short climb, then descends via asandy path to the river. Ends near a huge sand“slide.”
Dugout Wells PicnicArea
End of Hot SpringsRoad (unpaved)
Rio Grande VillageCampground (site 18)
End of BoquillasCanyon Road
Trail CommentsRoundtrip TrailheadLength
Ross Maxwell Dr.mile 11(at Burro Mesa Road)
8 miles west ofCastolon
Ross Maxwell Dr.mile 20
Ross Maxwell Dr.mile 15
Ross Maxwell Dr.mile 13
A flat, sandy trail up a canyon to the base of a drypouroff. Interesting geology and desert plants.
Flat desert trail to prominent rock formations. Lookfor rock art. No shade.
A beautiful desert hike to a small spring. Spectaculargeology and mountain/desert views.
Balconies overlook this scenic canyon. A short trail leadsinto and through the narrow gorge carved out of softvolcanic tuff.Crosses creekbed, climbs stairs, then descends alongthe river into a magnificent 1,500 foot deep limestonecanyon.
Burro MesaPouroff
The Chimneys
Mule Ears Spring
Tuff Canyon
Santa ElenaCanyon
1.0mile
4.8miles
3.8miles
0.75miles
1.6miles
Location
Page 10Page 10Page 10Page 10Page 10 The Big Bend The Big Bend The Big Bend The Big Bend The Big Bend PAISANOPAISANOPAISANOPAISANOPAISANO
WANTEDWANTEDWANTEDWANTEDWANTED
Each year, large numbers ofEach year, large numbers ofEach year, large numbers ofEach year, large numbers ofEach year, large numbers ofcactus and other plants arecactus and other plants arecactus and other plants arecactus and other plants arecactus and other plants are
from Big Bend National Park.from Big Bend National Park.from Big Bend National Park.from Big Bend National Park.from Big Bend National Park.Help us stop the loss ofHelp us stop the loss ofHelp us stop the loss ofHelp us stop the loss ofHelp us stop the loss of
irreplacable desert plants...irreplacable desert plants...irreplacable desert plants...irreplacable desert plants...irreplacable desert plants...
Report Cactus Thieves ToA Park RangerAt Once!
CCCCCACTUSACTUSACTUSACTUSACTUS
RRRRRUSTLERSUSTLERSUSTLERSUSTLERSUSTLERS!!!!!
Local nursuries sell native desert plants.If you would like to legally acquiredesert plants, ask at a visitor center formore information.
STOLENSTOLENSTOLENSTOLENSTOLEN
from the ground into backpacks,boxes, or bags. Removed fromtheir desert environment, all dugup cactus will eventually die. BigBend’s rare cacti are highly prizedby collectors, not just for their aes-thetic value, but also because of
their rarity. The rarer the cactus,the higher the price. Unfortu-nately, rarity is also associated withthe danger of extinction. Duringthe 1970s and 80s, widescale, sys-tematic collecting on privateranchlands denuded many areasof cactus. Freshly dug piles of cac-
tus represent-ing every spe-cies within 100miles were afrequent sightalong localroadsides. Indi-viduals sold for.10 cents andwholesale priceswere listed perthousand. To-day, with in-creased aware-ness and protec-tion, the cactusharvest is not asblatant-but stillcontinues.
Within BigBend NationalPark there arethree species ofcactus listed asthreatened u n -
der the en-dangeredspecies act.This means
by Park RangerSharon Collyer
Conservation Alert
With a plethora of user-unfriendly characteristics,
logic would lead us to believe thatcacti would be pretty low on thepopularity scale. However, comespring, even the homeliest cactiundergo a sensational transfor-mation, making even themost botanically apatheticvisitor stop and take no-tice. . . they flower! Ex-quisite blossoms attractnot only pollinators, butalso visitors from everystate. Park visitation in-creases drastically duringthe March and April flow-ering season, stretchingranger resources to the limit.Unfortunately, many of thepark's cactus species arevanishing. Why?
Many reasons contrib-ute to disappearing cactus.Encroachment by exoticplants minimizes the amountof space cacti have within theirideal habitat. Trespass live-stock can trample and destroythe delicate soils, sometimesleaving entire areas barren.Desert organisms are particu-larly sensitive to changing en-vironmental conditions. Whenexternal factors stress an alreadyrestrictive habitat (try survivingon ten inches of rain a year orless), the "fabric" that holds thesystem starts to unravel and theecosystem deteriorates. Plantsvanish. Animals perish. Thedesert, as we know it, dies.
The main threat faced bysome of Big Bend’s cactus spe-cies is poaching. Cacti are morevulnerable to theft than otherplant species because whole in-dividuals are easily transported
Look. . . But Don't Touchtimes, and the impact becomesmonumental.
What does the park do to con-trol cactus poachers? Big Bend is1,252 square miles of some of the
most remote and ruggedland in the U.S.. We do ourpart by preserving and pro-tecting the fragile deserthabitats in which rare cactispecies live. We also expectvisitors to share the re-sponsibility of maintainingthe integrity of their na-tional park by reportingsuspicious activity, and bynot taking part of the parkhome with them.
Preservation of natu-ral habitat is the best wayto protect threatened andendangered species; butwhat if these species con-tinue to disappear? Na-tional Parks have become
refuges form a n yo r -g a n -i s m sl i v i n gon thebrink ofe x t i n c -tion. Na-t i o n a lparks havealso be-come livingl a b o r a t o -
ries for the study of endangeredspecies. However, simply creat-ing protected areas does not guar-antee survival for the organismsthat live within. Through inter-pretive programs and park lit-erature, we are attempting to in-still a sense of urgency in our visi-tors: extinction is now and ex-tinction is forever.
Please help us maintain yourfragile Chihuahuan desert eco-system by not removing any ofthe plants and animals that livewithin, and by taking the time toteach your children, and yourchildren’s children, that life is ir-replaceable. So look, but don'ttouch, and with your help we canpreserve Big Bend National Park’suniqueness in its original state,one spiny, flowering cactus at atime.
Chisos Mountain Hedgehog
Bunched Cory
that they are likely to suffer thedanger of imminent extinctionwithin the forseeable future.Therarest cactus in Big Bend is theChisos Mountain Hedgehog.Found nowhere else in the world
but for a few locations in the park,this species usually grows undercreosote bush and is hard to find.This natural camoflauge vanisheswhen the magnificent pink blos-soms appear-usually duringspring break-the busiest time ofthe year. Every year, a few moreChisos Hedgehogs end up in theclutches of cactus poachers.
Two other threatened cacti,Lloyd's Mariposa Cactus andBunched Cory Cactus, are alsotargeted by cactus hobbyists.Both were once very commonthroughout the Big Bend coun-try on limestone soil. Today,rampant overcollecting has re-duced their populations to pro-tected lands within Big Bend Na-tional Park and the Black GapWildlife Management Area.
For every individual cactustaken out of the park, we get alittle closer to losing that speciesforever. Perhaps it seems like theloss of one or two won't do ir-reparable damage to the desertecosystem. However, in nature,nothing stands alone. By remov-ing one cactus plant, we delete:one source of food, one sourceof shade, one source of moisture,one habitat for small organisms,one topsoil stabilizer, and oneintrinsic part of the desert eco-system. Multiply this a thousand
Disappearing CactusLife
For every individual cactustaken out of the park, weget a little closer to losing
that species forever.
The Big BendThe Big BendThe Big BendThe Big BendThe Big Bend PAISANOPAISANOPAISANOPAISANOPAISANO Page 11Page 11Page 11Page 11Page 11
What can kidsdo here?
The Rio Grande is a surprisingly strongriver with unseen undertows and debris onthe bottom. Swimming is not recommended.Stay with your children as they explore theriver shore, make them keep their shoes on,and don’t let them drink the river water.
Please see page 14 for additional safetyinformation.
Because Big Bend is mountain lion coun-try, it’s important for parents to keep closewatch over their children. Lions are mostcommon in the Chisos Mountains, but havebeen sighted at all elevations and could ap-pear anywhere. While lions are rarely a threatto adults, young children who are unac-companied by adults could be in danger.
Require your children to walk withadults, rather than by themselves. If you seea lion, pick up your smallest child. Keep allyour children with you and stand as a group.DON'T RUN! Shout and wave your armsabove your head. Mountain lion sightingsare unusual and exciting, and most peoplesee lions while travelling in their cars. How-ever, be sure you talk to your children aboutsafe behavior before you begin hiking orexploring the park.
The Junior Ranger Activity Book costs$1.00 and is available at park visitor centers.
Hike a Trail!
Many park trails are suitable for families.Consult the "Easy and Moderate Hikes" charton page 9. For children in strollers, considerthe Window View Trail, a paved ¼-mileloop trail that begins at the Chisos Basintrailhead.
Big Bend is a special place! We hope youenjoy Big Bend National Park and that youlearn to value its resources. If you have anyquestions, ask a park ranger for help.
Mountain Lions
Swimming
ConcernsParents
Safety for
The Big Bend Junior Ranger program isdesigned for kids of all ages. Through activi-ties, games, and puzzles, kids can have fun asthey learn about the park. They can also earnstickers, badges, patches, and certificates.
Kids
Become a Junior Ranger!
Imagine visiting alocal restau-
rant where the spe-cialty is fillet of cat-fish, proudly adver-
tised as, “Local fare, straight out of the RioGrande!” Would you be inspired to order?Not many people get excited about eatinganything that comes out of this river, muchless jumping in for a swim. Are these fearsr e a l l ygroundedin fact?Accord-ing to thedata, theR i oG r a n d ehas beenon adownslidefor de-cades.
D u r -ing by-g o n edays, theRio was adynamicriver, ex-perienc-ing high floods during the rainy season. Thiscreated fertile bottomlands and diverse riv-erside habitats. Beginning in the 1950s, largedams were built to satisfy irrigation and hu-man consumption demands. These block-ades reduced the wide range of flows andnutrients, altering the conditions that nativespecies had adapted to. Consumption de-mands have only increased, turning the RioGrande into more of an irrigation canal thana natural free-flowing river.
Beginning in 1994, the watchgroupAmerican Rivers officially began rating theRio Grande as an endangered river, citingseveral threats: land development, excessivediversion and overuse of water, agriculturalrunoff, mine waste, and industrial pollution.Today, the only water that flows downstreamof El Paso is irrigation runoff and dischargesfrom city wastewater treatment plants. Thiswater, though wet, is not necessarily helpful;it is highly concentrated with chlorides andother salts.
Sometimes the river below El Paso is noth-ing more than a dry wash. Where does thewater come from that flows through the park?It is mostly from the Rio Conchos whichoriginates in the mountains of Chihuahua,Mexico, and enters the channel of the RioGrande near Presidio, Texas. This river hasalso been reduced due to growing agricul-tural and municipal use in Mexico. Wheredoes that leave the quality of ourNational Park waters? Believe itor not, this is the light at the endof the gloomy tunnel.
Anyone who is familiar with the RioGrande will tell you that the stretch betweenPresidio and Langtry (through the park) is thehealthiest part. The Rio Conchos, althoughfar from pristine, provides dilution for theconcentrated trickle out of El Paso and pointsnorth, and numerous fresh water springs inthe Lower Canyons of the Rio Grande Wild
and Scenic River contribute even more. Theisolation and remoteness from pollutionsources contributes to better water quality.Part of that remoteness comes from havingsuch a large area of land protected under stateand federal law.
The National Park Service mission is topreserve and protect resources undisturbedfor future generations. This ensures that theriver here will ideally be protected from futurehuman-induced degradation. This doesn’tmean that everything is perfect here—thereare several fish, mussel, reptile, and amphib-ian species federally listed as threatened, en-
dangered,or are un-der reviewfor thesed e s i g n a -t i o n s .There areeven ex-t i r p a t e dspecies, orones thatonce livedin thesewaters butare nowo n l yf o u n de l s e -where.
P r o -t e c t i n g
what river habitat is left can provide specieswith some stable foundation. The Blue Sucker,Cycleptus elongatus, for many years was con-sidered a species of concern and probablyheaded for the endangered species list. Recentstudies, however, discovered abundant popu-lations of this fish in the Lower Canyons, morethan anyone would have imagined. This pro-vides hope that not all is lost and more may besurviving than we have research dollars todiscover.
This protected stretch of river also pro-vides hope for extirpated species. Just as theMexican Black Bear recolonized Big Bend'smountains, the river habitat within the parkmay provide other once-resident species witha future home. The Silvery Minnow,Hybognathus amarus, was last seen here in the1960s. Today, the only known population is inNew Mexico. This population is currentlybeing temporarily removed from the riverwhen water levels become too low to supportthe fish. Big Bend may be an ideal spot toreestablish this species.
With ever-increasing competition be-tween humans and our wild counterparts,maintaining suitable habitat for all is becom-ing more difficult. As systems like the RioGrande become more and more degraded weneed to act. If maintaining a functioning eco-system is a priority, we should identify appro-priate sites where not only endangered spe-
cies can recover but where allnatural inhabitants can find theirniche and thrive. National andState protected lands may be the
best hope for conserving suitable habitats.We can all take part in protecting and con-serving our future by understanding and sup-porting our land management agencies inthese efforts.
The RioGrande
by Park RangerJoselyn Fenstermacher
An Endangered Refuge for Aquatic Life
River Ecosystems
Page 12Page 12Page 12Page 12Page 12 The Big Bend The Big Bend The Big Bend The Big Bend The Big Bend PAISANOPAISANOPAISANOPAISANOPAISANO
With its proximity to Mexico, diversity ofhabitat types, location on a major migrationpath, and checklist of almost 450 species, BigBend has much to offer to those who plantheir vacations around the potential for view-ing birds.
The spring migrationbegins in late February orearly March. Through
March and April the num-ber of migrants increases
steadily until peaking the lasttwo weeks of April and the first
week of May. In this rush of birdsare many migrants returning from winteringranges in Latin America on their way tonorthern nesting grounds. Most passthrough, but some remain through the sum-mer to nest and raise their young. Among theexpected migrants come the occasional rareand accidental species who have wandered,or are pushing the extreme edge of their nor-mal range. To observe the many migrant andresident species, and perhaps have the chanceto find that once-in-a-lifetime rarity, pa-tience and knowing where to look are thekeys.
The park bird checklist is a valuable tool infiguring out where to look. Nearly 75% of allthe listed species have been observed in ri-parian areas, including the corridor of the RioGrande and desert springs (Sam Nail Ranch,Dugout Wells). The pinyon-oak-juniper belt(Upper Green Gulch, Lost Mine Trail, and theChisos Basin) is another productive habitat,particularly for acorn woodpecker, Mexicanjay, and tufted titmouse. If Colima warbler isa goal, then hikes to the moist woodland can-yons of the high Chisos (Pine and Boot Can-yons) are necessary. The grassland/shrubcommunity along the lower slopes of theChisos, and the lower desert areas can yieldmany species, including Lucifer humming-bird, once yuccas, sotol and agaves bloom.
While you are enjoying the birds, keep inmind that many of the migrants you mayobserve are members of populations in de-cline. Beset by habitat destruction on boththe wintering and breeding grounds, andcritical stopover areas along the migratorypath, these birds that bring us so much plea-sure could soon fade from our skies. You canhelp: tread softly and don’t damage watersources; don’t disturb nesting birds with noiseor intrusive attempts at photography. Shareyour observations with us, particularly of rareor accidental species. Your detailed reportsbecome part of the record and may aid re-searchers. Enjoy the birds of spring, and helpus ensure their return next year.
Lodging
Camping
RangerPrograms
Camping in Big Bend NationalPark is on a first-come, first-served
basis with no advance reservations taken.The National Park Service operates camp-grounds at Rio Grande Village, the ChisosBasin, and Castolon. The cost is $8.00 pernight for a site.
Camping is also available at primitivebackcountry campsites in the ChisosMountains and along backcountry roads.High-clearance or 4-wheel drive vehicles arenecessary to reach most road sites.Backcountry permits are required and can beobtained in person at park visitor centers upto 24 hours in advance.
Camping areas are often full during theThanksgiving and Christmas holidays, as wellas during spring break in March or April.
The only public showers and laundryfacilities in the park are located at the RioGrande Village store.
Bird Watching
General Information
Tent Camping Trailers & RV's
The Chisos Mountains Lodge,operated by Forever Resorts Inc.,is located in the Chisos Basin at5,400 feet elevation. The lodge
offers a variety of rooms and cottages, plus agift shop and dining room. For reservations,please call (915) 477-2291 or 2292.
Join a park ranger for aguided hike, evening slideshow, talk, or workshop onBig Bend's natural and cul-
tural history. These free pro-grams are offered daily. Consult the Inter-pretive Activities Schedule posted on visitorcenter and campground bulletin boards formore information.
BankingThere are NO banking facilities inBig Bend National Park. Thenearest banking/ATM services arelocated in Study Butte, 26 miles
west of park headquarters. Most stores ac-cept major credit cards; however, campingfees must be paid in cash. It is advisable to havesmall bills ($1, $5, $10, $20) since larger bills areoften difficult to change. Small bills are alsoadvised if you plan to travel to the nearbyMexican villages.
$
All park campgrounds can accom-modate trailers and RVs, but ve-
hicle lengths have a great deal to do with safelyreaching the campground and finding a suit-able space.
The only hookups available in Big BendNational Park are at Rio Grande Village in the25-site, full-hookup campground operatedby Big Bend Resorts, Inc. Although there is nosize restriction, your vehicle must be equippedwith water and electrical hookups as well as athree-inch sewer connection. Register at thestore. No advance reservations are taken.
Near the RV park is the 100-site RioGrande Village Campground operated bythe National Park Service. Although there areno hookups, water, flush toilets, and a dumpstation are available. Set in a large grove ofcottonwoods, the campground is adjacent tothe Rio Grande. Many of the sites are pull-throughs. Generator use is limited: from8:00 am to 8:00 pm daily. A no-generatoruse area is also designated.
The 65-site Chisos Basin Campgroundis rugged and hilly. The sites are small andmost are not suited to recreational vehicles ortrailers. The road to the Basin is steep andcurvy, especially at Panther Pass—the road’shighest point. The road into the campgroundis a 15 percent grade. Trailers longer than 20feet and RVs longer than 24 feet are not rec-ommended.
Cottonwood Campground, nearCastolon, offers pit toilets and potable water,but no hookups or dump station. Cotton-wood is a NO-generator campground.
Big Bend's unpaved roads are generallyunsuitable for RV's and trailers. Overnightcamping in any primitive site requires abackcountry permit, obtained in person atpark visitor centers up to 24 hours in advance.
Groups of 10 or more are eligible to re-serve a spot in one of the park's group camp-sites. Reservations may be arranged up to 90days in advance by calling (915) 477-2251.
CottonwoodCampground
* 50% discount with Golden Age or Golden Access Passport
Chisos Basin
Cottonwood
Rio GrandeVillage RV
Rio GrandeVillage
Elevation# of
SitesCost Per
Night Facilities Registration
5,401 ft
2,169 ft
1,850 ft
1,850 ft
65
35
100
25
$8.00*
$8.00*
$8.00*
$14.50
Flush Toilets,Dump Station
Pit Toilets,No Generators
Flush Toilets,Dump Station
Full Hookups
Self-pay station
Self-pay station
Self-pay station
Inquire at RGVCamper's Store
Park Campgrounds
The Big BendThe Big BendThe Big BendThe Big BendThe Big Bend PAISANOPAISANOPAISANOPAISANOPAISANO Page 13Page 13Page 13Page 13Page 13
The Rio Grande follows thesouthern boundary of Big BendNational Park for 118 miles. In thisdistance it has carved three major
canyons, Santa Elena, Mariscal, and Boquillas,which have rapids varying in difficulty fromClass I to Class IV. Between the canyons, theriver is generally slower-paced. The RioGrande Wild and Scenic River extends down-stream beyond the park boundary for an ad-ditional 127 miles.
If you plan to take a river trip in Big BendNational Park, you may bring your ownequipment, or you can hire a guide service.Four local companies (see page 15 for tele-phone listings) provide guide service in thepark—you may reserve a trip by contactingthem directly.
If you plan to use your own equipment,you must obtain a free permit at a park visitorcenter. Permits are issued up to 24 hours inadvance of your trip, in person only. Stop bythe Panther Junction Visitor Center for yourpermit and for current river condition infor-mation prior to your trip.
Permits for the Lower Canyons of theRio Grande Wild and Scenic River may beobtained at the Persimmon Gap Visitor Cen-ter, when open; a self-permitting station isalso located at Stillwell Store, 5 miles south onFM2627 on the way to La Linda, Mexico.Permits for floating Santa Elena Canyon maybe obtained at the Barton Warnock Center inLajitas. Only permits for Santa Elena Canyonmay be written there. However, we encour-age all parties to get their permits at a parkvisitor center when possible, to obtain themost up-to-date river information and con-ditions.
River guide booklets are available forpurchase at park visitor centers. If you wouldlike to order them in advance of your trip, callthe Big Bend Natural History Association at(915) 477-2236 or visit the ir online internetbookstore at www.bigbendbookstore.org
Weather
Floating theRio Grande
Hiking andBackpacking
HorsesVisitors are welcome to bring anduse their horses in the park. A freestock-use permit is required andmay be obtained in person at any
of the park's visitor centers up to 24 hours inadvance of the trip.
While horses are not permitted on pavedroads or road shoulders, all gravel roads areopen to horses. Cross-country travel is per-mitted in the park, except in the Chisos Moun-tains where horse use is limited to the LagunaMeadow, Southwest Rim, and Blue Creektrails.
Horses are not permitted on nature trails,the Santa Elena and Boquillas Canyon Trails,or the Pine Canyon Trail, nor are they permit-ted in picnic areas.
Grazing within the park is not permitted,so you must bring your own feed. Stock maybe watered in the Rio Grande and at springsthat are not used for domestic water supply.Be prepared to haul water for your stock assprings are unreliable, especially during win-ter months. Check current spring conditionsat a visitor center when you arrive. All horsemanure must be removed from the park, ordeposited at a designated location near theNPS horse corral at Panther Junction (ask aranger for directions).
You may camp with your horses at manyof the park's primitiveroad campsites. Theseare available on a first-come, first-served ba-sis through a free
backcountry use permitavailable at park visitor centers.
These campsites are especially dif-ficult to obtain during holiday peri-
ods, especially spring break.Camping with horses is not permitted in
any of the park's developed campgrounds.Government Springs campsite, located
3½ miles from Panther Junction, is a primitivecampsite with a corral large enough for 4-8horses.
If you plan to bring horses to the park,you may reserve this campsite up to 10 weeksin advance by calling (915) 477-1158.
Big Bend National Park offersover 100 miles of hiking trails. Afree permit is required for all over-night trips, and can be obtained
in person only up to 24 hours in advance of thetrip. Because of the unreliability of desertsprings, it is difficult to plan an extended back-packing trip prior to your arrival in the park.Decide how much distance you want to coverand how much time you have. Park staff canassist you with trip planning based on yourneeds and current trail conditions. The Pan-ther Junction Visitor Center is open daily from8:00 a.m. to 6:00 p.m.
Backpacking sites in the Chisos Moun-tains are difficult to obtain during the Thanks-giving and Christmas holidays, and duringspring break in March and early April.
You may purchase maps and hiker’sguides at park visitor centers, or you mayorder them in advance from the Big BendNatural History Association by calling (915)477-2236.
Pets are not allowed on trails or inbackcountry areas. Please leavepets at home if you plan to hike.
The Southeast Rim of the Chisos Moun-tains, Mariscal Rim, and Casa Grande areclosed during the peregrine falcon nestingseason (February 1 - July 15).
Backcountry Planning
Elevational differences in Big Bend meanthat temperatures can be vastly different indifferent areas of the park. The lower areasalong the Rio Grande are very hot during thesummer months, while the Chisos Moun-tains are considerably cooler. Winter weathergenerally occurs between November andFebruary, with temperatures dropping dra-matically as cold fronts move through thearea. Between June and October thunder-storms and flash floods may occur. Bringclothing for both warm and cool weather, aswell as rain gear, when visiting Big Bend anytime of the year. See "how hot?" on page 10.
Top of the World: View from the summit of Emory Peak
phot
o by
L.D
avis
Casa GrandeCrown Mtn.
Lost Mine Peak
Toll Mtn.
Chisos Basin
Sierra del Carmen
Juniper Canyon
Boot Canyon
Pulliam Ridge
Mexico
Emory Peak
7,325' 7,415'
7,535'
7,010'
5,400'
6,870'
7,825'
Page 14Page 14Page 14Page 14Page 14 The Big Bend The Big Bend The Big Bend The Big Bend The Big Bend PAISANOPAISANOPAISANOPAISANOPAISANO
SSSSSAFETYAFETYAFETYAFETYAFETY T T T T TIPSIPSIPSIPSIPS
avoid ridges during thunderstorms. Carry aflashlight and a first aid kit. Let someone knowwhere you’re going and when you expect toreturn. If you get hurt or lost, stay in one placeto conserve water and energy. Signal for help;three blasts on a whistle is a well-recognizeddistress call. In remote areas, a large "X"marked on the ground by any means visiblefrom the air will signify that help is needed.Carry a signal mirror. Remember to obtain afree backcountry use permit before headingout overnight.
Venomous snakes, scorpions, spiders,and centipedes are all active during thewarmer months. Inspect shoes and sleepingbags or bedding before use and always carrya flashlight at night. While snake bites are rare,they usually occur below the knee or elbow.Pay attention to where you walk and placeyour hands.
Big Bend is mountain lion country, espe-cially the Chisos Mountains. While lion at-tacks are rare, three have occurred in the last10 years. Should you encounter an aggressivemountain lion, hold your ground, wave yourarms, throw stones, and shout. Never run.Keep groups together and consider hikingelsewhere with young children if you comeacross a special mountain lion warning signposted at a trailhead.
Safety is the Starting Point for a Great Visit
Black bears, javelinas, skunks, coyotes,and raccoons frequent Big Bend's camp-grounds. Although they sometimes appeartame, all of the animals in the park are wild,and could pose a threat to your health andsafety if you attempt to approach or feedthem. Never feed any of Big Bend's wildlife.
To prevent thesecreatures from becom-ing habituated to people,store all food, coolers,cooking utensils, andtoiletries in a hard-sidedvehicle, preferably in thetrunk of your car. Foodstorage lockers are avail-able for hikers and camp-ers in the Chisos Moun-tains. Dispose of garbageproperly. At the ChisosBasin Campground,throw away garbage inthe special bear-proofdumpsters and trashcans provided. Remem-ber to report all bear orlion sightings to a ranger.
Fire danger is alwaysan important safety con-sideration in Big Bend.Wood or ground fires arenot permitted in thepark, and you must ex-ercise caution in the use
of gas stoves, charcoal grills, and cigarettes.Big Bend has experienced drought condi-tions in the past several years and some re-strictions may apply to the use of these heatsources. Check with a ranger for the latestinformation about fire safety in the park.
Big Bend truly is wild country. In fact,many people visit Big Bend precisely becauseit is remote and rugged. But remember, as youenjoy the splendor of this great wildernessarea, to make safety a priority. By giving fore-thought to your actions you can have a safe,exciting, and rewarding vacation in Big BendNational Park.
Safety Tips
Many accidental deaths in Big Bend resultfrom car accidents. While driving is a greatway to see the park, it can also be dangerous,particularly if you are tired or are going toofast. Drive within the speed limit, 45 mphmaximum in the park, and watch for javelina,deer, and rabbits grazing along road shoul-ders, especially at night. Seat belts are re-quired at all times. Remember, too, that youshare the road with bicyclists and pedestri-ans. Some park roads,such as the road into theChisos Mountains Ba-sin, are steep and wind-ing and require extracaution. The BasinRoad is not recom-mended for RVs over24 feet or trailers over20 feet. Finally, alwaysselect a designateddriver before drinkingalcoholic beverages.
Desert heat can killyou. Carry plenty ofwater (at least one gal-lon per person, per day)and wear a hat, longpants, long-sleevedshirt, and sun screenwhen hiking. Springsare unreliable and of-ten dry up for a portionof the year, despite whatmaps indicate. Avoidhiking during mid-dayin summer; travel aswild animals do, in theearly morning or late evening hours ratherthan during the heat of the day.
Exploring this desert and mountaincountry on foot requires both mental andphysical preparation. Trails vary from wellmaintained in the Chisos to primitive andbarely visible in the desert. Plan hikes withinyour ability. Take along a map and compassand know how to use them. Flash floods mayoccur following thunderstorms so avoid nar-row canyons or dry washes. Stay low and
Heat
Driving
Hiking
Poisonous Animals
Mountain Lions
Fire
Desert Wildlife
Swimming
Reading This Could Save Your Life!
Keep your pet on a leash (or in a cage) at all times. Never leave them unattended atany time. Predators such as owls, coyotes, javelinas, and lions CAN and DO kill pets here. Even large dogs cannot
defend themselves against predators. Remember, desert heat is deadly. Do NOT leave your pet alone in a vehicle. Pets arenot allowed on trails, off roads, or on the river. The nearest kennel service is in Terlingua, 30 miles away.
Keep TheWild in Wildlife!
NeverFeed A Javelina!
National Park ServiceU.S. Department of the Interior
Big Bend National Park
Regulations are strictly enforced!
Javelina are wild and can be dangerous...
Pet Owners:Pet Owners:
Hot weather makes the muddy RioGrande look very inviting, but swimming isnot recommended. Water borne micro-or-ganisms and other waste materials can occurin the river and cause serious illness. The rivercan be hazardous, even in calm-looking wa-ter. Strong undercurrents, deep holes, andshallow areas with sharp rocks and large treelimbs are common and make the Rio Grandeunsafe for swimming. If you do choose toswim, wear a life jacket and avoid alcohol.
Big Bend is unfamiliar country to mostvisitors yet it need not be dangerous.
Whether hiking the highcountry, rafting theRio Grande, observing wildlife, or simplydriving the scenic roads of this wildernesspark, let safety be your constant companion.Spend a moment reviewing these commonsafety concerns so that you may have an en-joyable visit.
The Big BendThe Big BendThe Big BendThe Big BendThe Big Bend PAISANOPAISANOPAISANOPAISANOPAISANO Page 15Page 15Page 15Page 15Page 15
Local Facilities & Services
(Calls to 371, 424, and 837 prefixes are long-distance)
Road to the Basin and Ross MaxwellScenic Drive just beyond Sotol Vista
Overlook not recommended for trailerslonger than 20 feet and RVs over 24 feet
because of sharp curves and steep grades.
To Marathon
PersimmonGap
Stillwell Storeand RV Park
Dagger Flat Aut
oTr
ail
BLACK GAP
WILDLIFE MANAGEMENT AREA
Harte
Ranch
RosillosRanch
PRIVATE LAND
RO
SILLO
S M
OU
NTA
INS
Fossil Bone Exhibit
Panther JunctionPark Headquarters
Santa ElenaJunction The Basin
DugoutWells
Rio GrandeVillage
Boquillas CanyonTrail
HotSprings
Castolon
Mule EarsViewpoint
Blue CreekRanch
CH
ISO
S M
OU
NTA
INS
Burro MesaPouroff
Santa Elena
Santa ElenaCanyon
Trail
MESA DE ANGUILA
Maverick
UNITEDSTATES
MEXICO
UN
ITE
DS
TAT
ES
ME
XIC
O
385
2627
118
118
170
Rio
Grande
Rio
Gra
nde
Gra
nde
LaLinda
TerlinguaRanch
Boquillas
Ros
sM
axw
ell
Scenic
Driv
e
DE
AD
HO
RS
E M
OU
NTA
INS
StudyButteTerlingua
(Ghost Town)
Lajitas
To Alpine
To Presidio
BIG BEND RANCH
STATE PARK
Old
Mav
eric
kR
oad
Ranger Station/Information
Picnic area
Lodging
Food
Unpaved Road
Primitive road(four - wheel drive,high clearancevehicles only)
Private land withinpark boundary
Campground
Gas Station
Mountains
Big Bend National Park
N
10 Miles
Rio
Heath Canyon
Inside the Park (Area Code 915)Reporting Emergencies Parkwide ....................................... Call 477-2251.After the automated system answers, press 9.
If no answer, please hang up and call 911.National Park Service
General Information ............................................................................. 477-2251Big Bend Natural History Association
Seminar programs and book sales ...................................................... 477-2236Visitor Centers and Ranger Stations
Castolon Ranger Station ...................................................................... 477-2225Chisos Basin Visitor Center .......................................... 477-2264 or 477-2392Panther Junction Visitor Center .......................................................... 477-1158Persimmon Gap Visitor Center .......................................................... 477-2393Rio Grande Village Visitor Center ................................ 477-2271 or 477-2356
LodgingChisos Mountains Lodge (Chisos Basin) ......................................... 477-2291
CampgroundsRio Grande Village, Basin, and Cottonwood ............................ (NPS operated)Rio Grande Village RV Park (full hookups required) ... (concession operated)............................................ All are operated on a first come, first served basis
RestaurantsChisos Mountains Lodge (Chisos Basin) ......................................... 477-2291
Park Gasoline ServicePanther Junction (also diesel) ............................................................ 477-2294Rio Grande Village (also propane) .................................................... 477-2293Tow Service ........................................................................................... 477-2291
Campground StoresRio Grande Village ............................................................................... 477-2293Chisos Basin .......................................................................................... 477-2291Castolon ................................................................................................. 477-2222
Medical Services (outside the park)Terlingua Medics (business #) ............................................................. 371-2536Big Bend Family Health Center (Study Butte) ................................... 371-2661Big Bend Regional Medical Center (Alpine) ................................... 837-3447
Banking Services (outside the park)Quicksilver Branch Bank & ATM, Terlingua ...................................... 371-2211
Kennel Service (outside the park)Terlingua Creek Kennels ..................................................................... 371-2348
Guide Services (outside the park)Big Bend Touring Society, Terlingua ................................................ 371-2548Texas Jeep® Expeditions .................................... 371-2633 or 1-800-839-7238Texas Jeep® Rentals, Terlingua ................................................. 877-839-JEEP
Outside the Park (Area Code 915)Lodging (Call ahead for reservations)
Badlands Hotel, Lajitas ......................................................................... 424-3471Big Bend Motor Inn, Study Butte ..................... 371-2218 or 800-848-BENDEaster Egg Valley Motel, Study Butte ................................................. 371-2254Gage Hotel, Marathon ........................................................................ 386-4205Heath Canyon Ranch, FM 2627 .......................................................... 376-2235Longhorn Ranch Motel, Hwy 118 ........................................................ 371-2541Marathon Motel, Marathon ................................................................ 386-4241Terlingua Ranch Resort ........................................................................ 371-2416
CampingBig Bend Ranch State Park, Lajitas ...................................................... 424-3327Big Bend Travel Park, Study Butte ....................................................... 371-2250BJs RV Park, Terlingua .......................................................................... 371-2259Easter Egg Valley Motel ....................................................................... 371-2254Heath Canyon Ranch, FM2627 ........................................................... 376-2235Lajitas on the Rio Grande ................................................................... 424-3471Ocotillo Mesa Scenic RV Park, Study Butte ............................. 800-729-1406Stillwell Trailer Park, FM2627 ............................................................ 376-2244Study Butte RV Park ............................................................................. 371-2468Terlingua Oasis RV Park (tents & cabins) ....... 371-2218 or 800-848-BENDTerlingua Ranch Resort ........................................................................ 371-2416
Service Stations and Grocery StoresBig Bend Motor Inn, Study Butte (gas & diesel)..371-2483 or 800-848-BENDLajitas Trading Post (gas) ................................................................... 424-3234Stillwell Trailer Park, FM2627 (gas) ................................................... 376-2244Study Butte Store and Station (gas, diesel & propane) ......................371-2231Terlingua Auto Service, Study Butte (towing & repair) ................... 371-2223
Rio Grande Float Trip OutfittersBig Bend River Tours, Study Butte ....................... 371-3033 or 800-545-4240Desert Sports, Terlingua ....................................... 371-2727 or 888-989-6900Rio Grande Adventures, Study Butte ................... 371-2490 or 800-343-1640TX River Expeditions/Far Flung, Study Butte ... 371-2633 or 800-839-7238
Equipment RentalsDesert Sports , Terlingua ...................................... 371-2727 or 888-989-6900Rio Grande Adventures, Study Butte........................371-2490 or 800-343-1640Big Bend River Tours, Study Butte............................371-3033 or 800-545-4240
Horseback RidingLajitas Stables, Lajitas.......................................................................................424-3238Big Bend Stables, Study Butte ..................................371-2212 or 800-887-4331Spring Creek Remuda, 23 mi. south of Marathon....................................376-2260Ben's Hole Creek Ranch, Terlingua..........................................................371-2954
MariscalMine
GlennSprings
Pine Canyon
Juniper Canyon
Old
Road
Ore
R iver Road
The road to the Basin is not recom-mended for trailers longer than 20 feetand RVs over 24 feet because ofsharp curves, steep grades, andlimited parking.