The Best of Southeast Asia

To the Western visitor, Southeast Asia is an assault on the senses, an immersion intoa way of life utterly unlike that to which we’re accustomed. From bustling cities likeBangkok, Singapore, and Kuala Lumpur to tiny fishing villages and thatched ruralhamlets, from the jungles of Malaysian Borneo to the deluxe resorts of Bali, from thetemples of Luang Prabang in Laos to the bacchanal of Patpong in Thailand, SoutheastAsia offers a glimpse of the extraordinary, an explosion of colors, sounds, smells, tex-tures, and life that will send you home with a wider vision of the human experience.In this chapter, we share our picks of the region’s unrivaled highlights.

1 The Most Unforgettable Travel Experiences

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• Making Merit (Thailand & Laos):For centuries, the sangha, or monk-hood, has lived off the donations offood and money from the commu-nity. The tradition continues to thisday: Every morning, monks walk thestreets around their temple not just toreceive their daily food, but also toallow the giver to make merit. By giv-ing food in this lifetime, Buddhistsbelieve that they will not go hungryin the next lifetime. If you are inter-ested in making merit this way, talkto your hotel’s concierge. You mightbe able to join kitchen staff as theyhead to a nearby monastery in theearly morning or wait on the rightbyway to greet and feed a column ofmonks. In Luang Prabang, this tradi-tion has become a tourist attractionof sorts and is a must-see. See chap-ters 4 and 5.

• Staying in a Hill-Tribe Village nearthe China Border (Laos): They stillask visitors, “Why do you come here,anyway?” in villages along the NamHa River in northern Laos. Thanksto the folks who run the Nam Ha

Ecotourism Project, these vast tractsof pristine jungle won’t be overrun bytourists anytime soon, and the manyethnic minority groups who’ve livedhere in isolation won’t be turned intohuman zoo exhibits. It is hearteningto know that the money you spendon a trek goes to support a model ofsustainable eco-tour development ina fragile region. And it is good, heartyjungle trekking or river kayaking thattakes you through lush jungle terrainwhere you’re likely to see monkeysand exotic birds. You’ll arrive in vil-lages where kayaks are still an oddity,and spend fun evenings around thefire communicating by charades orstick figures in a notebook. It’s notabout the villages being “pristine”; it’sabout the fact that your visit is part ofa cultural exchange. You can have apositive effect on people with yourheart and your tourist dollars. Seechapter 5.

• Participating in a Baci Ceremony(Laos): The Baci is a touching Laoceremony used to say welcome orfarewell and to honor achievements.

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T H E M O S T U N F O R G E T TA B L E T R AV E L E X P E R I E N C E S 11

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Participants sit in a circle and receivegroup blessings, after which there istraditional dancing and lao lao, ricewine. It’s a chance for the ultra-friendly Lao people to express theirhospitality to you, their honoredguest. See chapter 5.

• Sailing the South China Sea (Viet-nam): With the sky above us a deep,red afterglow, we rounded a buoymarking the shipping lane off coastalNha Trang and, with the wind now atour backs, settled the Hobie Cat intoa perfect fan-tail, the mainsail and jib billowing on opposite sides as therudders gave a low moan and theboat gained speed. Riding low swells,we sped toward a coast where twin-kling lights might have belonged to achild’s train set, and the sky contin-ued its show, now in orange. Heav-enly. Opportunities for watersportsand sailing are many as you travelalong Vietnam’s coast. Most resortshave boats for rent, and Nha Trang isa good bet, as is the area off Mui NeBeach near Phan Thiet, which isbecoming a very popular wind- andkitesurfing spot. See chapter 6.

• Waiting for the Magic Hour atAngkor Wat (Cambodia): You’llwant to plan your day around it, andtemple aficionados all have theirfavorite spots; but whether from ahillside overlooking a glowing templefacade or from the heights of themain temple itself, with the horizonframed by the famed ancient towers,be sure to see an Angkor sunset. Sun-rise is equally worth the early-morn-ing ride. At the more popular viewingspots, like Bakeng Hill, you’ll oohand aah in concert with lots of othertravelers. Nobody likes crowds, butthere is a certain cool oneness here,and the odd didgeridoo player or

cross-legged character in meditationis a nice throwback to the old hippie-trail days in the region. See chapter 7.

• Sipping a Singapore Sling in theLong Bar at the Raffles Hotel (Sin-gapore): Ah, the Long Bar, home ofthe Singapore Sling. Come in theafternoon, before the tourist rush.Sheltered by long timber shutters thatclose out the tropical sun, the aircooled by lazy punkahs (small fansthat wave gently back and forthabove), you can sit back in an old rat-tan chair and have a saronged wait-ress serve you sticky alcoholiccreations while you toss back a fewdainty crab cakes. Life can be so deca-dent. Okay, so the punkahs are elec-tric and, come to think of it, the placeis air-conditioned (not to mentionthat it costs a small fortune), but it’sfun to imagine the days when Somer-set Maugham, Rudyard Kipling, orCharlie Chaplin would be sitting atthe bar sipping Slings and spinningexotic tales of their world travels.Drink up, my friend; it’s a lovelyhigh. See chapter 8.

• Walking the Streets of Georgetown(Penang, Malaysia): Evidence of for-mer British colonization and earlyChinese, Indian, and Arab immigra-tion is apparent in many major cities in Malaysia, but Penang has aspecial charm. In some ways, the citystill operates the way it did half a cen-tury ago. The shophouses are filledwith small businesses—bicycle-repairshops, hardware stores, Chinese med-icine halls, and coffee shops. Fromupstairs windows, you can still seelaundry hanging on bamboo poles.Life hums in these streets, and foranyone who has witnessed thehomogenization of Singapore or themodernization of Kuala Lumpur,

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Penang is a charming reminder ofwhat life might have been like inthese old outposts. See chapter 9.

• Observing Open-Air Public Cre-mations (Bali): Hindus believe thatcremation is the only way a soul canbe freed of its earthly body and travelto its next incarnation (or to enlight-enment), so cremations are joyousoccasions, full of floats and fanfarethat can resemble a Mardi Gras

parade. Complicated towers hold thebody, carried aloft by cheering men.At the burning ground, the body isplaced in a receptacle resembling awinged lion, a bull, or some otherfabulous creature, and is set on fire.It’s beautiful and awesome, a mar-velous show of pageantry and faith,and yet a natural part of everyday life.Western visitors are welcomed. Seechapter 10.

T H E B E S T TO W N S & V I L L A G E S 13

2 The Best Towns & Villages• Chiang Saen (Thailand): Crumbling

11th-century temples take you backto the birthplace of the Lanna King-dom, one of Thailand’s wealthiestand most influential. The nearbyGolden Triangle, a notorious tradepoint for the international opiumindustry, has a new museum andriverside views of Laos, Thailand, andMyanmar. See chapter 4.

• Luang Prabang (Laos): This town,proclaimed a World Heritage Site byUNESCO for its glorious Buddhisttemples, is also a charming retreat.Shady lanes are lined with French-stylecountry homes that have been restoredand converted to house cafes, galleries,shops, and some quaint guesthouses.The sunset over the lazy Mekong is theperfect end to a day spent in LuangPrabang. See chapter 5.

• Hoi An (Vietnam): The small size ofHoi An belies its importance to Viet-nam; it was once a major trading port,with canals leading right up to mer-chants’ quarters for easy delivery ofgoods. The canals are now peacefulstreets, but little else has changed.Almost every building in central Hoi An is a historic Vietnamese-,Japanese-, and Chinese-influenced res-idence or meeting hall. See chapter 6.

• Phnom Penh (Cambodia): Fewcountries’ capitals could be calledquaint or fall under the category of a“town,” and that’s the very charm ofthis riverside burg. They say youeither love it or hate it, that it’s a placefor expats and not tourists, but in ashort stroll through the town center,you’ll come across a unique mix. Firstyou’ll encounter a row of touristcafes, the streets buzzing with motor-bikes and choked with dust, but turnthe corner and you’ll find a quietalley, a row of colonials, a lone kidkicking a soccer ball, and a grim-looking grandmother breaking into asmile as you walk by. There’s some-thing special here. See chapter 7.

• Ubud (Bali): This is the culturalheart of Bali, bursting with art andgreenery and some of the best foodon the island. Even though it’sdependent on tourism and is far froma typical Balinese village, you still geta sense of a real town, with real lifegoing on around you. Ubud is therichest region in Bali for art produc-tion and, because of its central loca-tion, the town is the perfect base forexploring the rest of the island. Seechapter 10.

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3 The Best Beaches• Chaweng Beach (Koh Samui, Thai-

land): Chaweng is real fun in the sun.The beach itself is gorgeous, withbungalows nestled in the trees justbeyond the sand. Behind the beachlies a small town full of life, fromwonderful Thai and seafood eateriesto shopping and wild nightlifeoptions. See chapter 4.

• Mai Khao Beach (Phuket, Thai-land): Look to your right—nobody.Look to your left—nobody. Just17km (11 miles) of deserted beach-front, the longest beach on Phuket,with only one resort (which also hap-pens to be one of the island’s best)dotting its shores. Not a place tocome if you want to party, though,since the only excitement occurs dur-ing the Songkran festival in April,when hundreds of baby sea turtles arereleased into the ocean. See chapter 4.

• Mui Ne Beach (Phan Thiet, Viet-nam): Just a few hours from Ho ChiMinh City (Saigon), Phan Thiet isthe latest getaway in Vietnam.Oceanside development is in fullswing here, and there are some greatboutique resorts along the stunning

white sands of Mui Ne Beach.Golfers will enjoy the NickFaldo–designed course, the seafoodhere is good, and the town of PhanThiet itself is an interesting little fish-ing port worth a wander. There aresome great day trips to enormousremote dunes and smaller fishing vil-lages. See chapter 6.

• Tanjung Rhu (Langkawi, Malaysia):This huge, secluded cove has one ofthe longest stretches of private beachever. Wide with soft sand, the beachhas cooling shady spots provided bypalm trees overhead and beautifuldeep-blue waters for good swimming.Best of all, there’s only one resort here(and the beach is kept picture per-fect), so you won’t have to elbow forspace or suffer jet skis. See chapter 9.

• Lombok (off coast of Bali, Indone-sia): The pure white-sand beaches ofLombok, with clear aqua-blue waterlapping against them, are sometimesso private that you can have one all to yourself. And Lombok is just ashort hop from neighboring Bali. Seechapter 10.

4 The Best Outdoor Adventures• Exploring Phang Nga Bay (Thai-

land): From the island of Phuket, sea-canoe operators guide visitors throughthe caves hidden deep inside thecraggy island-rocks of Phang-Nga Bay.Outside, the islands thrust up to thesky, their jagged edges laced with scat-tered trees. Lie flat in your canoe toslip through the small cave openings,inside which you’ll find magnificentchambers believed to have once hid-den pirate operations. See chapter 4.

• Caving & Kayaking in Vang Vieng(Laos): Countless caves and caverns arehidden in the magnificent mountains

surrounding Vang Vieng, a small vil-lage along the Nam Song River. Someof them are well known and some arebarely on the map. Kayak tours on theNam Song include some fun caves thatyou’ll swim into; you can test yourmettle on natural mud slides. Spendyour days exploring and evenings talk-ing about it over drinks in this laid-back little backpacker town. Seechapter 5.

• Sea Kayaking in Halong Bay (Viet-nam): The more than 3,000 arrestinglimestone karst formations rising outof Halong Bay’s peaceful blue-green

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waters provide a natural obstaclecourse for paddling. Moving amongthem, you’ll pass in and amongintriguing grottoes and caverns.Nights are spent camping out in nat-ural parks or on the deck of a mothership. See chapter 6.

• Trekking to Hill-Tribe Villages inSapa (Vietnam): Dressed in elaboratecostumes of leggings, tunics, andheaddresses, Hmong and Yao people(among other groups) gather to selltheir weavings, fine dyed clothing, orcrude but intricate metalwork in thecentral market. In fact, the town ofSapa is famed for an ephemeral “lovemarket,” where people from sur-rounding villages converge to findthat special someone. A trip to Sapameans that the hill tribes come toyou, but don’t limit your trip to thetown; be sure to get off into thecountryside and trek in the shadow ofFansipan, the highest mountain inthe region. Among lush terraced ricefields, you can visit many villages oneven the shortest trek and experience

different hill-tribe traditions and cul-tures. See chapter 6.

• Jungle Trekking in Taman Negara(Malaysia): With suitable options forall budgets, levels of comfort, anddesired adventure, Malaysia’s largestnational park opens the wonders ofprimary rainforest and the creatureswho dwell in it to everyone. From thecanopy, walk high atop the forest onnight watches for nocturnal life. Thisadventure is as stunning as it isinformative. See chapter 9.

• Hiking Gunung Agung (Bali): Bali’shighest mountain/volcano, GunungAgung (3,014m/9,886 ft.), is sacredto the Balinese, whose traditions callit “the center of the world.” Climbingthe steaming peak is a serious trekthat calls for a guide and proper sup-plies. Most hotels can arrange for it,but you will have to start out in themiddle of the night or very early inthe morning to make the top by sun-rise. Nearby Gunung Batur is a lessstrenuous and no less rewarding half-day climb. See chapter 10.

I N T R I G U I N G T E M P L E S , S H R I N E S , PA L A C E S & A R C H A E O L O G I C A L S I T E S 15

5 The Most Intriguing Temples, Shrines,Palaces & Archaeological Sites

• Grand Palace & Wat Phra Kaeo(Bangkok, Thailand): These twoplaces are number one on every travelitinerary to Bangkok, and rightly so.The palace is indeed grand, with mix-tures of traditional Thai and Euro-pean Victorian architecture. Wat PhraKaeo, the royal temple that housesThailand’s revered and mysteriousEmerald Buddha, is a small city initself, with a dozen or more pictur-esque outer buildings and monu-ments that devour rolls of film. Seechapter 4.

• Ayutthaya (north of Bangkok, Thai-land): Before Bangkok, there wasAyutthaya. This was the thriving

capital of Siam that the first Euro-peans saw when they visited amazingThailand. Ruling a rich and powerfulkingdom of over a million inhabi-tants, the monarchy supported thearts, especially literature. As the citygrew, international trade was encour-aged. Today, all that remains are brickremnants of a grand palace and manytemples that were sacked during theBurmese invasion. It’s best to hire aguide who can walk you through andpoint out the significance of each site.See chapter 4.

• Sukhothai (central Thailand):Founded in the 13th century,Sukhothai (“Dawn of Happiness”)

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was the capital of the first unifiedstate in what is today Thailand. Itsborders grew to include parts ofBurma to the west and extended asfar as Luang Prabang to the east. Nowa UNESCO World Heritage Site, theSukhothai Historical Park encom-passes the ruins of the former royalpalace as well as over 20 temples. Bestenjoyed from the seat of a bicycle andin combination with a trip to nearbySri Satchanalai. See chapter 4.

• Wat Xieng Thong (Luang Prabang,Laos): The glittering Xieng Thong,built in 1560, sits grandly on a penin-sula jutting into the Mekong River.The facades of two of its buildings arecovered by glittering glass mosaics;another building contains an ornatechariot with the heads of seven drag-ons and the remains of a king. Abouta dozen English-speaking monksroam the premises; all are excellentconversationalists. See chapter 5.

• Plain of Jars (Xieng Khouang, Laos):How did hundreds of huge stone urns,some measuring 2.7m tall (9 ft.),come to be placed on a few meadowsin northern Laos? No one reallyknows, and that’s what’s fun here. Themost prevalent explanation is that theurns were made by prehistoric folks inthe area about 2,000 years ago to beused as sarcophagi, but there’s lots ofroom for conjecture. See chapter 5.

• Tomb of Khai Dinh (Hue, Vietnam):Khai Dinh was an egotistical, eccentricemperor who was bad for the peopleof Vietnam but great for the tomb heleft behind. A gaudy mix of Gothic,baroque, and classical Chinese archi-tecture, the exterior is remarkable. Thestunning interior is completely cov-ered with intricate glass and ceramicmosaic work. See chapter 6.

• Cao Dai Holy See Temple (TayNinh, north of Ho Chi Minh City,Vietnam): This is the spiritual home

base of the Cao Dai religion, a faithcharacterized by philosophical inclu-sion and influence gathered from allbeliefs, including the world’s greatscientists and humanitarians. Itsheadquarters is like a fantasyland ofcolored mosaic and elaborate paint-ing. Followers are dressed in colorfulrobes during the picturesque dailyprocession. It’s quite unique. Seechapter 6.

• Angkor Wat (Cambodia): One of theworld’s man-made wonders, AngkorWat is the Disneyland of temples inAsia. This ancient city was known tothe Western world only in myth untilit was rediscovered and hacked free ofjungle overgrowth in the late 1800s.The magnificent temples are arrayedover a 97-sq.-km (37-sq.-mile) com-pound that dates from the rise andfall of the mighty Angkor civilization(A.D. 802–1295). A visit here isunforgettable. See chapter 7.

• Thian Hock Keng Temple (Singa-pore): One of Singapore’s oldest Chi-nese temples, it is a fascinatingtestimony to Chinese Buddhismcombined with traditional Confucianbeliefs and natural Taoist principles.Equally fascinating is the modernworld that carries on just outside theold temple’s doors. See chapter 8.

• Jame Mosque (Kuala Lumpur,Malaysia): Built at the central pointof the city, this is one of the oldestmosques in Kuala Lumpur. It is theheart of Malay Islam, as evidenced bythe Muslim shops, eateries, and dailyactivities carried on in the streets sur-rounding it. See chapter 9.

• Jalan Tokong (Malacca, Malaysia):This street, in the historic heart of thecity, has a Malay mosque, a Chinesetemple, and a Hindu temple livingpeacefully side by side—the perfectexample of how the many foreignreligions that came to Southeast Asia

C H A P T E R 1 . T H E B E S T O F S O U T H E A S T A S I A16

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shaped its communities and learnedto coexist in harmony. See chapter 9.

• Uluwatu (Bali): This dramatic cliff-side temple overlooks the crashingwaves of Bali’s southern beaches.Watch the Balinese pray and performdances. The frolicking monkeys pro-vide comedic relief from all theromance at sunset. See chapter 10.

• Basakih Temple (Bali): Built inhomage of Gunung Agung, the

island’s feisty, smoke-belching cre-ator, the Basakih Temple does justiceto the awe and grandeur of the Bali-nese creation myths surrounding thevolcano. The spires of individualfamily shrines and temples are some-thing like Chinese pagodas, and theplace is always abuzz with local wor-shippers. You’re likely to get pulledinto a ceremony here. See chapter 10.

T H E B E S T M U S E U M S 17

6 The Best Museums• National Museum (Bangkok, Thai-

land): From prehistory to recentevents, this museum—the formerpalace of the brother of King RamaI—answers many questions aboutThai history and culture through theages. Inside buildings that are them-selves works of fine Thai design,you’ll find Buddha images, ancientartifacts, royal paraphernalia, andfine arts. Rama’s sister also lived here,and her house is decorated in thesame style as it was in the late 1700s.See chapter 4.

• Vietnam National Museum of FineArts (Hanoi, Vietnam): Proper artmuseums are few and far between inthe region, and this large colonialhouse has a nice collection of newerworks and historic pieces. You’ll findnothing too controversial or ground-breaking, but some good examples oflacquer and silk painting, wood-block, and folk and expressive workin oil. If you see anything you like, you’re sure to find good copies inany of the city’s many galleries. Seechapter 6.

• Cham Museum (Danang, Vietnam):This open-air colonial structurehouses the largest collection of Chamsculpture in the world. Not only arerelics of this ancient Hindu-inspiredculture rare, but the religious artwork

itself—more than 300 pieces of sand-stone—is also voluptuous, captivat-ing, and intense. See chapter 6.

• National Museum (Phnom Penh,Cambodia): Don’t miss this reposi-tory for the statues and relief sculp-ture that have been recovered fromthe Angkor temples and otherancient sites throughout Cambodia.Organized in a convenient chronol-ogy, it’s a short course in Khmer arthistory. Later pieces are particularlyexpressive. See chapter 7.

• Tuol Sleng, Museum of Genocide(Phnom Penh, Cambodia): Bewarned that a visit here is quiteintense—too much for some. Themuseum is simply the shell of Cam-bodia’s largest prison from 1975 to1979, when the entire country wasturned into a concentration camp.Originally a high school, Tuol Slengwas the site of horrible atrocities and,though there are some photo exhibits,the main experience of the museum isin wandering the small cells andlearning the tragic tale from experi-enced local guides. See chapter 7.

• Images of Singapore (SentosaIsland, Singapore): No one has donea better job than this museum inchronicling for the public the horrorsof the Pacific theater and Japaneseoccupation in Southeast Asia. Video

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and audio displays take you on achronological journey through Singa-pore’s World War II experience. Thegrand finale is the Surrender Cham-bers, life-size wax dioramas of the

fateful events. Other dioramas depicttraditional cultural festivals and his-torical figures throughout Singapore’searly development. See chapter 8.

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7 The Best Festivals & Celebrations• Songkran (Thailand): Every year

from April 13 to 15, Thais welcomethe New Year (according to their cal-endar). Because Songkran falls in themiddle of the hottest season in analready hot country, how do you thinkpeople celebrate? Every Thai heads outinto the streets with water guns andbuckets of ice water—sometimes lacedwith talcum powder, just to add to themess—and spends the next 3 dayssoaking one another—and you. For-eigners are especially favorite targets.Don’t get mad: Arm thyself! Waterbazookas are on sale everywhere. Havea ball! See chapter 4.

• Dragon Boat Races (Laos): Cele-brating the end of Buddhist Lent,dragon boat races are held in everyriverside town in Laos (and that’smost towns, really). The races areexciting, the betting is frenzied, andthere’s always a small carnival withhandmade rides and the standardrigged games of skill. See chapter 5.

• That Luang Festival (Vientiane,Laos): In early November, thousandsof Buddhist followers from all over thecountry, and even a few neighboring

countries, converge on the spectacular That Luang temple inVientiane. There are alms-giving cere-monies and flower processions, andthen the whole affair dissolves into acarnival that stretches over severaldays. See chapter 5.

• Chinese New Year (Singapore): Ifyou’re in Southeast Asia around theend of January or the beginning ofFebruary, hop up to Hong Kong ordown to Singapore for the festivities.It’s a 3-day party, with parades (com-plete with dragons and stilt walkers)and fireworks. See chapter 8.

• Thaipusam (Singapore & Malaysia):Around the end of January and thebeginning of February, Hindus cele-brate Thaipusam. Men give thanksfor prayers answered by carryingkavadis, huge steel racks attached totheir bodies with skewers piercing theskin. Cheeks are pierced, and fruitsare hung from the skin using sharphooks. A parade of devotees carrythese things in a deep trance—andthe next day they wake up virtuallyunharmed. See chapters 8 and 9.

8 The Best Resorts & Luxury Hotels• The Oriental, Bangkok (Bangkok,

Thailand): The original address inThailand, the Oriental has seen mod-ernization detract from its charms ofyesterday, but there’s still ambience allaround. See p. 98.

• JW Marriott Phuket Resort & Spa(Phuket, Thailand): One of the mostrelaxing resorts in Thailand, the JW

Marriott is set on a secluded 17km(11-mile) stretch of white-sand beachfar from the debaucherous din ofPatong. An ideal getaway. See p. 183.

• Four Seasons Resort Chiang Mai(Chiang Mai, Thailand): Set in thehills of the Mae Rim Valley north ofChiang Mai, luxurious Lanna-stylepavilions overlook working terraced

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rice paddies. Each suite has its ownsala from which to admire thegrounds and surrounding hills. See p. 210.

• La Résidence Phou Vao (Luang Pra-bang, Laos): Lording it over the townin boutique luxury, the gardens andlarge suites of the Phou Vao (formerlythe Pansea) are comfort, and theatmosphere is done to a T. This istypical of other Orient Express prop-erties in the region. See p. 263.

• Settha Palace Hotel (Vientiane,Laos): Once the address of note forvisitors to the French colony, the Set-tha Palace only recently returnedfrom obscurity and is now one of thefinest hotels in the region. It’s a nicemarriage of colonial elegance andmodern comfort. See p. 248.

• Sofitel Metropole Hanoi (Hanoi,Vietnam): The history of the Metro-pole, one of the country’s premiergrande dames, tells the history of thelast tumultuous century in Vietnam. Ifthe walls could only talk. Thougheverything is luxurious and comfort-able and you’re in a prime downtownlocation, you’ll certainly feel like you’vewalked into old Indochina. See p. 305.

• Evason Hideaway at Ana Mandara(Nha Trang, Vietnam): Earth-tonedprivate villas are secreted away in asecluded cove near Nha Trang thatcan only be reached by boat. Set intothe forested beach or rocky coast, andeach with a private pool, the Hide-away’s villas portend good things forVietnam’s luxury getaways. Nothingelse in the country comes close. Yet.See p. 360.

• Sofitel Dalat Palace (Dalat, Viet-nam): It’s real old-world opulence inthe king’s former castle in Vietnam’scentral highlands. Private spaces aredecorated in a cool colonial baroquestyle, while service is, in short, kingly.See p. 369.

• Amansara (Siem Reap, Cambodia):If there’s one place to splurge on ajaunt through Southeast Asia, this isthe one. Built around former KingSihanouk’s private guesthouse, theAmansara is flawless in detail andservice, making it a perfect base ofoperations for exploring the templesof Angkor. See p. 436.

• Raffles Hotel (Singapore): For old-world opulence, Raffles is second tonone. This is a pure fantasy of thedays when tigers still lurked aroundthe perimeters. See p. 469.

• Shangri-La Hotel, Singapore (Singa-pore): What sets this hotel apart fromother city properties is its sprawlinggrounds. The Shang is a meticulouslylandscaped tropical oasis, with lushgarden views from every angle. Threeindividual wings give you a choice ofaccommodations styles: urban con-temporary, natural resort, and Asianopulence. See p. 476.

• Hilton Kuala Lumpur (KualaLumpur, Malaysia): The coolest of thecool stay at the new Hilton. Therooms feel like suites, decorated inslickety slick contempo style with thelatest entertainment and IT built in—even in the bathrooms. See p. 558.

• Four Seasons Resort Langkawi(Langkawi, Malaysia): Raising thebar, this resort is an exotic Moorishparadise on the most gorgeous beachin Malaysia. Rooms and public areasdrip with the ambience of the Ara-bian Nights. Three words: To. Die.For. See p. 587.

• Four Seasons Resort at JimbaranBay (Jimbaran, Bali): With its indi-vidual bungalows and plunge poolsoverlooking the blue sea and itsfamous Four Seasons pampering, thisis one of the great hotels in the world.See p. 624.

• Amandari (Ubud, Bali): The Aman-dari offers another sybaritic Bali

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experience, with individual bunga-lows overlooking a deep-green gorge.If you can afford it (or the Four Sea-sons Resort at Jimbaran Bay), do it.Even if you can’t, do it. See p. 630.

• Chedi Club at Tanah Gajah (Ubud,Bali): The private villas offer plunge

pools, indoor and outdoor Bosespeaker systems, huge outdoor bath-tubs, butlers that cater to your everydemand, and plenty of complimen-tary services that make other hotelsseem stingy. See p. 630.

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9 The Best Hotel Bargains• Majestic Grande (Bangkok, Thai-

land): The Majestic could rightly becalled either a small-scale luxuryhotel or a bloated boutique hotel.Regardless of the label, it’s in a primespot off bustling Sukhumvit, withrooms going for half the price of thelarge chains. See p. 107.

• Tamarind Village (Chiang Mai,Thailand): If you’re going to travel ona budget, do it with style—and styleis what Tamarind Village haswrapped up in its quiet courtyard inthe middle of Old Town. Rooms arenew and rather spartan in concreteand rattan, but everything is tip-top.See p. 208.

• Day Inn Hotel (Vientiane, Laos): Soit’s just a few notches above youraverage guesthouse, but there’s acomfortable, laid-back feel here, andthis many long-stay visitors can’t bewrong. You’ll find rooms for US$32(£18). See p. 249.

• Spring Hotel (Ho Chi Minh City,Vietnam): Not especially luxurious,but rooms in this privately owneddowntown property (one of few non-governmental places in Saigon) startat US$36 (£20). It’s light on ameni-ties but very comfortable, conven-ient, and friendly. See p. 393.

• Goldiana (Phnom Penh, Cambodia):It’s no-frills, but friendly and cheap,set in a quiet neighborhood south ofthe town center. The hotel is popularwith long-staying visitors and NGOworkers. See p. 424.

• SHA Villa (Singapore): This bou-tique hotel is packed with SoutheastAsian charm. It has an attentive staffand an ideal location, close toOrchard Road. See p. 481.

• Swiss-Inn (Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia):Location, location, location! Right inthe center of Kuala Lumpur’s bustlingChinatown, the Swiss-Inn is theperennial favorite for travelers here. Acomfortable choice, plus it’s so closeto everything. See p. 560.

• Heeren House (Malacca, Malaysia):Bargain or no bargain, this boutiquehotel in the heart of the old city is theplace to stay in Malacca if you wantto really get a feel for the local atmos-phere. See p. 570.

• Telang Usan Hotel (Kuching,Malaysia): An informal place, TelangUsan is homey and quaint, andwithin walking distance of manymajor attractions in Kuching. See p. 592.

• The Losmen (Homestays) of Bali.These small-time accommodationswill give you a large, comfortable(though no-frills) room or bungalowwith a big, often fancy breakfast forabout US$5 a night for two. Seechapter 10.

• Ritz-Carlton Bali (Jimbaran, Bali):Okay, it’s certainly not cheap, but theresort—with spectacular amenitiesand massive grounds made forstrolling—offers great value formoney. See p. 625.

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T H E B E S T M A R K E T S 21

10 The Best Local Dining Experiences• Street Food (Bangkok, Thailand):

On every street, down every alley,you’ll find someone setting up a cartwith an umbrella. Noodles, salads,and satay are favorites, and somehawkers set up tables and stools onthe sidewalk for you to take a load off.This is Thai cafe life! See chapter 4.

• Kua Lao (Vientiane, Laos): Kua Laoserves traditional Lao cuisine in arestored colonial—it’s the premierLao restaurant in the country. Theextensive menu goes on for pages.There is an entire page of vegetarianentrees and another entire page ofsomething you don’t see often: tradi-tional Lao desserts. See p. 251.

• Pho (Vietnam): Don’t leave the coun-try without sampling one, if notmany, bowls of this delicate noodlesoup, made with vermicelli (thin ricenoodles), chicken (ga) or beef (bo),and several fresh accompaniments,according to the chef ’s whim or localflavor: basil, mint, chile peppers, andbean sprouts. See chapter 6.

• Ngon Restaurant (Ho Chi MinhCity, Vietnam): It may be a restau-rant, but it’s really like the classroomfor Vietnam Cuisine 101. It’s loud

and busy, but diners have their choiceof food from the many authenticstreet stalls that line the central court-yard. Locals eat here; and thoughthere is an English menu, go with aVietnamese friend or ask for a recom-mendation from the friendly (butalways busy) staff. See p. 396.

• Hawker Centers (Singapore): Thinkof them as shopping malls for food—great food! For local cuisine, whoneeds a menu with pictures when youcan walk around and select anythingyou want as it’s prepared right beforeyour eyes? See chapter 8.

• Gurney Drive Food Stalls (Penang,Malaysia): Penang is king for offeringa variety of Asian cuisines, from Chi-nese to Malay, Indian, and everythingelse in between. Visiting this largehawker center by the sea is like taking“Intro to Penang 101.” See p. 581.

• Warungs (Bali): Like a local cafe, theBalinese equivalent of the greasy-spoon diner in America, warungs canbe found on every street corner. Ifyou’re not put off by a bit of grime,you’ll discover the food can beauthentic, delicious, and cheap. Seechapter 10.

11 The Best Markets• Chatuchak Weekend Market

(Bangkok, Thailand): One worddescribes it: huge. You can easily getlost and certainly spend hours wan-dering this labyrinth. Don’t buy any-thing until you spend at least a halfday wandering down the endlessaisles eyeballing the multitude ofmerchandise available. See chapter 4.

• Night Bazaar (Chiang Mai, Thai-land): Most of those gorgeous handi-crafts you find all over Thailand aremade in the north, and at ChiangMai’s sprawling Night Bazaar, you’ll

find the widest selection, best quality,and best prices. See chapter 4.

• Morning Market (Vientiane, Laos):Laos’s famous market is three hugebuildings with traditional tieredroofs. Silver handicrafts, fabrics, jew-elry, electronics, books, and much,much more occupy each building’sseveral floors. The aisles are wide andmade for wandering and pokingthrough the wares, and the propri-etors are friendly, gentle bargainers.See chapter 5.

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• Central Market (Hoi An, Vietnam):On the banks of the busy PerfumeRiver lies this entire city block of nar-row, roofed aisles. Products of everydescription are for sale inside: handi-crafts, household items, and servicessuch as facials and massages. On theoutskirts, an entire warehouse isdevoted to silk and silk tailoring. Seechapter 6.

• Central Market (Phnom Penh,Cambodia): This is where it all hap-pens in Phnom Penh. The mainbuilding is a massive Art Decorotunda with wings extending in alldirections. It’s an anthill of activity on

any given day, and you can get someinteresting bargains and unique finds.See chapter 7.

• Arab Street (Singapore): Sure, Singa-pore is a shopper’s paradise, but itneeds more places like Arab Street,where small shops lining the streetsell everything from textiles to handi-crafts. Bargaining is welcome. Seechapter 8.

• Central Market (Kuala Lumpur,Malaysia): This is one-stop shoppingfor all the rich arts and handicraftsMalaysia produces—and it’s air-con-ditioned, too. See chapter 9.

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Everything Has a Price: Haggling

Prices are never marked in the small shops and at street vendors in South-east Asia. You must bargain. The most important thing to remember whenbargaining is to keep a friendly, good-natured banter between you and theseller. Before you start out, it’s good to have some idea of how much yourpurchase is worth, to give you a base point for negotiation. A simple “Howmuch?” is the place to start, to which the vendor will reply with the topprice. Check at a few vendors before negotiating, and never accept the firstprice! Try a smile and ask, “Is that your best price?” Vendors will laughinglyask for your counteroffer. Knock the price down about 50%—they’ll lookshocked, but it’s a starting point for bidding. Just remember to smile and befriendly, and remain willing to walk away (or fake it). Caveat: If it’s a larger,more expensive item, don’t get into major bargaining unless you’re seriousabout buying. If the shopkeeper agrees on what you say you’re willing topay, it’s considered rude not to make the purchase. See the individual coun-try chapters for more on shopping.

Tips

12 The Best Shopping Bargains• Antiques (Thailand): Before you

head out on vacation, visit someAsian galleries in your home countryand take a look at the prices of theitems you like. Once you’re here,you’ll be amazed at how little thesethings really cost. Most places will beglad to pack and ship purchases for

you, and you’ll still come out ahead.See chapter 4.

• Tailored Silk Suits (Thailand; alsoHanoi, Hoi An, and Ho Chi MinhCity, Vietnam): For a fraction ofwhat you’d pay at home, you can havea lined silk (or wool) suit tailored in aday or less, including a fitting or two.

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Bring pictures of your favoritedesigner outfits for a clever copy, plusan empty suitcase or two for the triphome. See chapters 4 and 6.

• Hand-Woven Textiles (Laos): TheLaos hand-weave textured fabricspiece by piece on primitive woodenlooms. Such painstaking work costsmore than a few dollars, but, rangingfrom sophisticated silk to gaily col-ored ethnic prints, the designs arepure art and uniquely Laotian. Seechapter 5.

• Silver or Lacquer Handicrafts (Viet-nam): The workmanship is tops andthe prices low throughout Vietnam,particularly for lacquerware. Bargainhard and make sure that the silver isgenuine. See chapter 6.

• Silver Filigree Jewelry (Malaysia):Silver is worked into detailed filigreejewelry designs to make brooches,necklaces, bracelets, and other finejewelry. See chapter 9.

• Pewter (Malaysia): Malaysia is thehome of Selangor Pewter, one of thelargest pewter manufacturers in theworld. Its many showrooms have allsorts of items to choose from. Seechapter 9.

• Fabric & Woodcarvings (Bali): Evenwith the “rich man’s tax” for touristsin Bali, just about anything you buyon the island is a bargain comparedwith the same stuff back home. Com-missioned fabric and woodcarvingsare a particularly good deal. See chap-ter 10.

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13 The Hottest Nightlife• Patpong (Bangkok, Thailand): Yes,

that Patpong. If go-go bars and sexshows aren’t your style, you’ll still findplenty to do. After you’re finishedshopping in the huge night market,you’ll see plenty of restaurants, pubs,and discos that cater to folks whoprefer more traditional nightlife. Seechapter 4.

• Disco Lives! (Laos): Go to a disco . . .any disco. It’s like a bad junior-highdance and just as innocent. In thebasement of Vientiane’s Lao PlazaHotel is a reasonable big-city facsim-ile, but ask around in any small townfor what’s going on. The music isAsian pop, but it’s refreshing to watchyoung gentlemen ask the ladies to thefloor with a bit of pomp and circum-stance, and then it’s cheek-to-cheekor stilted boogie until the big cheerwhen the music stops. It hearkensback to an America of the 1950s. Seechapter 5.

• Ho Chi Minh City (Vietnam): Fromthe tawdry to the socialite scene,

you’ll find it in Ho Chi Minh City(Saigon). With rooftop garden barslike Saigon Saigon and cool spots likeQ Bar, the city has a rollicking scene.Most evenings begin with an elegant(but very reasonable) French or Viet-namese dinner; then it’s bar-hoppingtime in the compact downtown, min-gling with trendy locals and fun-loving expats. See chapter 6.

• Singapore: Nightlife is becomingincreasingly sophisticated in Singa-pore, where locals have more moneyfor recreation and fun. Take the timeto choose the place that suits yourpersonality. Jazz club? Techno? Cock-tail lounge? Wine bar? Good old pub?It has it all. See chapter 8.

• Bangsar (near Kuala Lumpur,Malaysia): Folks in Kuala Lumpurknow to go to Bangsar for nighttimeexcitement. A couple blocks of con-centrated restaurants, cafes, discos,pubs, and wine bars will tickle anyfancy. There’s good people-watching,too. See chapter 9.

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