The Best of New England

One of the greatest challenges of traveling in New England is choosing from anabundance of superb restaurants, accommodations, and attractions. Where to start?Here’s an entirely biased list of our favorite destinations and experiences. Over yearsof traveling through the region, we’ve discovered that these are places worth more thanjust a quick stop—they’re all worth a major detour.

1 The Best of Small-Town New England

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• Marblehead (MA): The “YachtingCapital of America” has major picture-postcard potential, especially in sum-mer, when the harbor fills with boatsof all sizes. From downtown, a shortdistance inland, make your waytoward the water down the narrow,flower-dotted streets. The first glimpseof blue sea and sky is breathtaking. See“Marblehead” in chapter 6.

• Provincetown (Cape Cod, MA): Atthe far tip of the Cape’s curl, inintensely beautiful surroundings, isProvincetown. Provincetown’s historygoes back nearly 400 years, and in thelast century, it’s been a veritable head-quarters of bohemia—a gatheringplace for famous writers and artists. It’salso, of course, one of the world’s topgay and lesbian resort areas. ButProvincetown is a place for everyonewho enjoys savory food, fun shopping,and fascinating people-watching. See“The Lower Cape” in chapter 7.

• Nantucket (MA): With grand 19th-century homes and cobblestonestreets, it looks as though the whalersjust left. Traveling to the island ofNantucket is like taking a trip to a par-allel universe; you get historic charmbut with 21st-century amenities. The

island also has shops full of luxurygoods, loads of historical sites open tothe public, and miles of public beachesand bike paths. See “Nantucket” inchapter 8.

• Oak Bluffs (Martha’s Vineyard,MA): Stroll down Circuit Avenue inOak Bluffs with a Mad Martha’s icecream cone and then ride the FlyingHorses Carousel. This island harbortown is full of fun for kids and par-ents. Don’t miss the colorful “ginger-bread” cottages behind CircuitAvenue. Oak Bluffs also has greatbeaches, bike paths, and the Vine-yard’s best nightlife. See “Martha’sVineyard” in chapter 8.

• Stockbridge (MA): Norman Rockwellmade a famous painting of the mainstreet of this, his adopted hometown.Facing south, it uses the southernBerkshires as backdrop for the sprawlof the Red Lion Inn and the other late-19th-century buildings that make upthe commercial district. Then as now,they service a beguiling mix of unas-suming saltboxes and Gilded Age man-sions that have sheltered farmers,artists, and aristocrats since the days ofthe French and Indian Wars. See “TheBerkshires” in chapter 9.

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• Washington (CT): A classic, with aCongregational church facing a vil-lage green surrounded by clapboardColonial houses—all of them withblack shutters. See “The LitchfieldHills” in chapter 10.

• Essex (CT): A walk past white-clap-board houses to the active waterfronton this narrow, unspoiled stretch ofthe Connecticut River rings all theright bells. There is not an artificial

note, a cookie-cutter franchise, nor acostumed docent to muddy its near-perfect image. Rides on a 1920ssteam locomotive or Mississippi-styleriverboat are options. See “The Con-necticut River Valley” in chapter 10.

• Woodstock (VT): Woodstock has astunning village green, a whole rangeof 19th-century homes, woodlandwalks leading just out of town, and asettled, old-money air. This is a good

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place to explore on foot or by bike, orto just sit and watch summer unfold.See “Woodstock & Environs” inchapter 12.

• Montpelier (VT): This is the way allstate capitals should be: slow paced,small enough so you can walk every-where, and full of shops that still sellnails and strapping tape. Montpelieralso shows a more sophisticated edge,with its Culinary Institute, an art-house movie theater, and several finebookshops. But at heart it’s a smalltown, where you just might run intothe governor at the corner store. See“Exploring Montpelier & Barre” inchapter 12.

• Hanover (NH): It’s the perfect col-lege town: the handsome brick build-ings of Dartmouth College, a tidygreen, a small but select shopping dis-trict, and a scattering of good restau-rants. Come in the fall, and you’ll betempted to join in the touch footballgame on the green. See “Hanover” inchapter 13.

• Castine (ME): Soaring elm trees, apeaceful harborside setting, plenty ofgrand historic homes, and a few goodinns make this a great spot to soak upsome of Maine’s coastal ambience offthe beaten path. See “The Blue HillPeninsula” in chapter 14.

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2 The Best Places to See Fall Foliage• Walden Pond State Reservation

(Concord, MA): Walden Pond is hid-den from the road by the woods whereHenry David Thoreau built a smallcabin and lived from 1845 to 1847.When the leaves are turning and thetrees are reflected in the water, it’s hardto imagine why he left. See p.158

• Mount Auburn Cemetery (Cam-bridge, MA): More than 5,000 treesspread across Mount Auburn’s 175acres. Each deciduous specimenchanges color on its own schedule,and at the peak of foliage season, eachseems to be a different shade of red,orange, or gold. See p. 131.

• Bash-Bish Falls State Park (MA):Head from the comely village ofSouth Egremont up into the forestedhills of the southwest corner of Mass-achusetts. The roads, which changefrom macadam to gravel to dirt andback, wind between crimson cloudsof sugar maples and white birchesfeather-stroked against banks of blackevergreens. The payoff is a three-stateview from a promontory above a 50-foot cascade notched into a bluff,with carpets of russet and gold

stretching all the way to the HudsonRiver. See p. 335.

• The Litchfield Hills (CT): Route 7,running south to north through therugged northwest corner of Connecti-cut, roughly along the course of theHousatonic River, explodes with colorin the weeks before and after ColumbusDay. Leaves drift down to the water andwhirl down the foaming river. See “TheLitchfield Hills” in chapter 10.

• I-91 (VT): An interstate? Don’t scoff(the traffic can be terrible on narrowstate roads). If you like your foliageviewing wholesale, cruise I-91 fromBrattleboro to Newport. You’ll beoverwhelmed with gorgeous terrain,from the gentle Connecticut RiverValley to the sloping hills of theNortheast Kingdom. See chapter 12.

• Vermont Route 100 (VT): Route 100winds the length of Vermont fromReadsboro to Newport, plying the MadRiver Valley for a stretch. It’s the majornorth-south route through the center ofthe Green Mountains, and it’s surpris-ingly undeveloped along most of itslength. You won’t have it to yourselfalong the southern stretches on autumn

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weekends, but as you head farthernorth, you’ll leave the crowds behind.See chapter 12.

• Crawford Notch (NH): Route 302passes through this scenic valley,where you can see the brilliant redmaples and yellow birches high onthe hillsides. In fall, Mount Washing-ton, in the background, is likely to bedusted with an early snow. See “TheWhite Mountains” in chapter 13.

• Camden (ME): The dazzling fall col-ors that cover the rolling hills arereflected in Penobscot Bay on the eastside, and in the lakes on the west.Ascend the peaks for views out to thecolor-splashed islands in the bay.Autumn usually comes a week or solater on the coast, so you can stretchout your viewing pleasure. See“Penobscot Bay” in chapter 14.

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3 The Best Ways to View Coastal Scenery• Strolling Around Rockport (MA):

The town surrounds the small harborand spreads out along the rugged,rocky coastline of Cape Ann. From theend of Bearskin Neck, the view is spec-tacular—fishing and pleasure boats inone direction, roaring surf in the other.The surf ’s the thing at Halibut PointState Park, at the tip of the peninsula.See “Cape Ann” in chapter 6.

• Getting Back to Nature on PlumIsland (MA): The Parker RiverNational Wildlife Refuge, in New-buryport, offers two varieties ofcoastal scenery: picturesque saltmarshes packed with birds and otheranimals, and gorgeous ocean beacheswhere the power of the Atlantic is evi-dent. See “Newburyport, Ipswich &Plum Island” in chapter 6.

• Biking or Driving the Outer Cape(MA): From Eastham through Well-fleet and Truro, all the way toProvincetown, Cape Cod’s outermosttowns offer dazzling ocean vistas anda number of exceptional bike paths,including the Province Lands, justoutside Provincetown, that are bor-dered by spectacular swooping dunes.See “The Outer Cape” in chapter 7.

• Heading “Up-Island” on Martha’sVineyard (MA): Many visitors neverventure beyond the port towns ofVineyard Haven, Oak Bluffs, andEdgartown. Though each has its

charms, the scenery actually getsmore spectacular “up-island,” intowns like Chilmark, where you’llpass moorlike meadows and familyfarms surrounded by stone walls. Fol-low State Road and the scenicMoshup Trail to the westernmost tipof the island, where you’ll experiencethe dazzling colored cliffs of Aquin-nah and the quaint fishing port ofMenemsha. See “Martha’s Vineyard”in chapter 8.

• Cruising Newport’s Ocean Drive(RI): After a tour of the fabulouslyoverwrought “cottages” of the hyper-rich that are strung along BellevueAvenue, emerging onto the shorelineroad that dodges the spray of theAtlantic is a cleansing reminder of thepower of nature over fragile monu-ments to the conceits of men. Toextend the experience, take a 3.5-milehike along the Cliff Walk that skirtsthe edge of the bluff commanded bythe largest mansions. See “Newport”in chapter 11.

• Sitting in a Rocking Chair (ME):The views are never better than whenyou’re caught unawares—such as sud-denly looking up from an engrossingbook on the front porch of an ocean-side inn. Throughout the Mainechapter, look for mention of innsright on the water, such as BeachHouse Inn (p. 604), Samoset Resort

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(p. 633), East Wind Inn (p. 633),and the Claremont (p. 659).

• Hiking Monhegan Island (ME):The village of Monhegan is clusteredaround the harbor, but the rest of this700-acre island is all picturesquewildlands, with miles of trails cross-ing open meadows and windingalong rocky bluffs. See “MidcoastMaine” in chapter 14.

• Driving the Park Loop Road atAcadia National Park (ME): This isthe region’s premier ocean drive.You’ll start high along a ridge withviews of Frenchman Bay and the Por-cupine Islands, then dip down alongthe rocky shores to watch the surfcrash against the dark rocks. Plan todo this 20-mile loop at least twice toget the most out of it. See p. 647.

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4 The Best Places to Rediscover America’s Past• Paul Revere House (Boston, MA):

We often study the history of theAmerican Revolution through storiesof governments and institutions. Atthis little home in the North End,you’ll learn about a real person. Theself-guided tour is particularlythought-provoking, allowing you tolinger on the artifacts that hold yourinterest. Revere had 16 children withtwo wives, supported them with histhriving silversmith’s trade—and putthe whole operation in jeopardy withhis role in the events that led to theRevolution. See p. 124.

• Old State House (Boston, MA):Built in 1713, the once-towering OldState House is dwarfed by modernskyscrapers. It stands as a reminder ofBritish rule (the exterior features alion and a unicorn) and its over-throw—the Declaration of Indepen-dence was read from the balcony,which overlooks a traffic island wherea circle of bricks represents the site ofthe Boston Massacre. See p. 122.

• Faneuil Hall (Boston, MA):Although Faneuil Hall is best knownnowadays as a shopping destination,if you head upstairs, you’ll be trans-ported back in time. In the second-floor auditorium, park rangers talkabout the building’s role in the Revo-lution. Tune out the sound of sneakers

squeaking across the floor, and youcan almost hear Samuel Adams (hisstatue is out front) exhorting the Sonsof Liberty. See p. 116.

• “Old Ironsides” (Boston, MA): For-mally named USS Constitution, thefrigate was launched in 1797 andgained fame battling Barbary piratesand seeing action in the War of 1812.Last used in battle in 1815, it wasperiodically threatened with destruc-tion until a complete renovation inthe late 1920s started its career as a floating monument. The staffincludes sailors on active duty whowear 1812 dress uniforms. See p. 124.

• North Bridge (Concord, MA):British troops headed to Concordafter putting down the uprising inLexington, and the bridge (a replica)stands as a testament to the Minute-men who fought here. The ConcordRiver and its peaceful green banksgive no hint of the bloodshed thattook place. On the path in fromMonument Street, placards and audiostations provide a fascinating narra-tive. See “Concord” in chapter 6.

• Plymouth Rock (Plymouth, MA):Okay, it’s a fraction of its original sizeand looks like something you mightfind in your garden. Nevertheless,Plymouth Rock makes a perfect start-ing point for exploration. Close by is

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Mayflower II, a replica of the alarm-ingly small original vessel. The jux-taposition reminds you of what adangerous undertaking the Pilgrims’voyage was. See “Plymouth” inchapter 6.

• Sandwich (MA): The oldest town onCape Cod, Sandwich was founded in1637. Glassmaking brought notori-ety and prosperity to this picturesquetown in the 19th century. Visit theSandwich Glass Museum for thewhole story, or tour one of the town’sglassblowing studios. Don’t leavewithout visiting the 76-acre HeritageMuseums and Gardens, which has a working carousel, a sparklingantique-car collection, and a wonder-ful collection of Americana. See “TheUpper Cape” in chapter 7.

• Nantucket (MA): It looks as thoughthe whalers just left, leaving behindtheir grand houses, cobbled streets,and a gamut of enticing shops offer-ing luxury goods from around theworld. The Nantucket HistoricalAssociation owns more than a dozenproperties open for tours, and theWhaling Museum is one of the mostfascinating sites in the region.Tourism may be rampant, but not itstackier side effects, thanks to strin-gent preservation measures. See“Nantucket” in chapter 8.

• Old Sturbridge Village (MA):Authentic buildings re-create a ruralsettlement of the 1830s. In the win-ter, the participatory “Dinner in aCountry Village” promotion letsguests stay after hours and prepare ameal of the era on a massive hearth bycandlelight, then enjoy the fruits oftheir labor—roast chicken, “beefolives,” gourd soup, trifle, and fresh-roasted coffee. See “Sturbridge & OldSturbridge Village” in chapter 9.

• Deerfield (MA): Arguably the best-preserved Colonial village in New

England, the historic section of thistown has over 80 houses dating backto the 17th and 18th centuries. Noneof the clutter of modernity hasintruded here. Thirteen museumhouses on the main avenue can bevisited through tours conducted bythe organization known as HistoricDeerfield. See “The Pioneer Valley”in chapter 9.

• Newport (RI): A key port of the clip-per trade long before the British sur-rendered their colony, Newportretains abundant recollections of itsmaritime past. In addition to its greatharbor, clogged with tugs, ferries,yachts, and majestic sloops, the Cityby the Sea has kept three distinctiveenclaves preserved: the watersidehomes of Colonial seamen, the hill-side Federal houses of port-boundmerchants, and the ostentatious man-sions of America’s post–Civil Warindustrial and financial grandees. See“Newport” in chapter 11.

• Plymouth Notch (VT): PresidentCalvin Coolidge was born in this highupland valley, and the state has done asuperb job preserving his hometownvillage. You’ll get a good sense of thepresident’s roots, but also gain agreater understanding of how a NewEngland village works. See p. 497.

• Shelburne Museum (Shelburne,VT): Think of this sprawlingmuseum as New England’s attic.Located on the shores of Lake Cham-plain, the Shelburne features not onlythe usual exhibits of quilts and earlyglass, but also whole buildings pre-served like specimens in formalde-hyde. Look for the lighthouse, therailroad station, and the stagecoachinn. This is one of northern NewEngland’s “don’t miss” destinations.See p. 530.

• Portsmouth (NH): Portsmouth is asalty coastal city that just happens to

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boast some of the most impressivehistoric homes in New England. Startat Strawbery Banke, a historic com-pound of 42 buildings dating from1695 to 1820. Then visit the manyother grand homes in nearby neigh-borhoods, like the house John PaulJones occupied while building hiswarship during the Revolution. See“Portsmouth” in chapter 13.

• Victoria Mansion (Portland, ME):The Donald had nothing on the Vic-torians when it came to excess. You’llsee Victorian decorative arts at theirzenith in this Italianate mansion builtduring the Civil War years by a pros-perous hotelier. It’s open to the pub-lic for tours in summer and also putson outstanding Christmas-seasonprograms in December. See p. 611.

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5 The Best Activities for Families• Exploring the Museum of Fine Arts

(Boston, MA): Parents hear “magnif-icent Egyptian collections.” Kidsthink: “Mummies!” Even the mosthyper youngster manages to take itdown a notch in these quiet, refinedsurroundings, and the collections atthe MFA simultaneously tickle visi-tors’ brains. See p. 119.

• Experimenting in the Museum ofScience (Boston, MA): Built arounddemonstrations and interactive dis-plays that never feel like homework,this museum is wildly popular withkids—and adults. Explore theexhibits, then take in a show at theplanetarium or the Mugar OmniTheater. Before you know it, every-one will have learned something,painlessly. See p. 120.

• Catching a Free Friday Flick at theHatch Shell (Boston, MA): Betterknown for the Boston Pops Fourth ofJuly concert, the Esplanade is alsofamous for family films (like Shrek orPocahontas) shown on Friday nightsin summer. The lawn in front of theHatch Shell turns into a giant, carlessdrive-in as hundreds of people picnicand wait for dark. See p. 140.

• Visiting the Heritage Museums andGardens (Cape Cod, MA): This sitewith museum buildings spread over76 acres will delight both children andadults. Kids will especially love thegleaming antique cars, the collections

of soldiers and Native American cloth-ing, and the 1912 carousel that offersunlimited rides. Outdoor concerts freewith admission take place mostSunday afternoons in season. See p. 199.

• Whale-Watching off Provincetown(Cape Cod, MA): Boats leaveMacMillan Wharf for the 8-milejourney to Stellwagen Bank NationalMarine Sanctuary, a rich feedingground for several types of whales.Nothing can prepare you for thethrill of spotting these magnificentcreatures feeding, breaching, andeven flipper-slapping. See p. 254.

• Deep-Sea Fishing: Charter fishingboats these days usually have high-tech fish-finding gear—imagine howyour kids will react to reeling in onebig bluefish after another. The topspots to mount such an expeditionare Barnstable Harbor or Rock Har-bor in Orleans, on Cape Cod; PointJudith, at the southern tip of RhodeIsland; and the Maine coast. Seechapters 7, 11, and 14, respectively.

• Riding the Flying Horses Carouselin Oak Bluffs (Martha’s Vineyard,MA): Some say this is the oldestcarousel in the country, but your kidsmight not notice the genuine horse-hair, sculptural details, or glass eyes.They’ll be too busy trying to grab thebrass ring to win a free ride. After yourride, stroll around the town of Oak

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Bluffs. Children will be enchantedwith the “gingerbread” houses, a carry-over from the 19th-century revivalistmovement. See p. 278.

• Biking Nantucket (MA): Short, flattrails crisscross the island, and everyone leads to a beach. The shortestrides lead to Children’s Beach, withits own playground, and JettiesBeach, with a skate park and water-sports equipment for rent; older kidswill be able to make the few miles toSurfside and Madaket. See “Nan-tucket” in chapter 8.

• Visiting Mystic Seaport and MysticAquarium (CT): The double-downwinner in the family-fun sweepstakeshas to be this combination: a visit tothe waterfront settlement of the Sea-port, which captures the look andfeel of a 19th-century seafaring vil-lage, and a trip to the Aquarium,with performing sea lions and a dis-play of glowing, fluorescent coral.These are the kinds of G-ratedattractions that have no age barriers.See p. 407.

• Visiting the Ben & Jerry Ice CreamFactory (Waterbury, VT): Kids andice cream are a great combination,and the half-hour tours that leaveevery 10 minutes in summer won’ttax anybody’s patience. Browse thesmall ice cream museum, enjoy theplayground and cow-viewing area,

and make sure to save room for thefree samples. See p. 514.

• Exploring the Shelburne Museum(Shelburne, VT): This museum con-tains one of the nation’s most singularcollections of American decorative,folk, and fine art. Kid favorites includethe Circus Building, with a 35,000-piece three-ring miniature circus; anoperating vintage carousel; a collectionof dolls and dollhouses; and automata,large (sometimes 3 feet tall), oftencomical wind-up toys. See p. 530.

• Riding the Mount Washington CogRailway (Crawford Notch, NH): It’sfun! It’s terrifying! It’s a great glimpseinto history. Kids love this ratchetyclimb to the top of New England’shighest peak aboard trains that werespecially designed to scale the moun-tain in 1869. As a technological mar-vel, the railroad attracted tourists bythe thousands a century ago. Theystill come to marvel at the sheeraudacity of it all. See p. 584.

• Exploring Monhegan Island (ME):Kids from 8 to 12 especially enjoyovernight excursions to MonheganIsland. The mail boat from PortClyde is rustic and intriguing, andthe hotels are an adventure. Leave atleast an afternoon to sit atop thehigh, rocky bluffs scouting the glim-mering ocean for whales. See “Mid-coast Maine” in chapter 14.

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6 The Best Country Inns• Hawthorne Inn (Concord, MA;

& 978/369-5610): Everything here—the 1870 building, the garden set-ting a stone’s throw from thehistoric attractions, the antiques,the eclectic decorations, the accom-modating innkeepers—is top of theline. See p. 160.

• Coonamessett Inn (Falmouth, MA;& 508/548-2300): Picture windowsoverlooking a pond and 7 verdant

acres make this former (from 1796)homestead a very special place to stay.Separate sitting rooms and knottypine walls add to its comfort andcharm. Plus, Sunday brunch is a realtreat. See p. 206.

• Captain’s House Inn (Chatham,Cape Cod, MA; & 800/315-0728):An elegant country inn dripping withgood taste, this is among the bestsmall inns in the region. Most rooms

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have fireplaces, elegant paneling, andantiques; they’re sumptuous yet cozy.Your British hostess serves a stupen-dous high tea. This could be the ulti-mate spot to enjoy Chatham’sChristmas Stroll festivities. See p. 235.

• Charlotte Inn (Edgartown, Martha’sVineyard, MA; & 508/627-4751):Edgartown tends to be the most for-mal enclave on Martha’s Vineyard,and this compound of exquisitebuildings is by far the fanciest addressin town. The rooms are distinctivelydecorated: One boasts a baby grand,another its own thematic dressingroom. The restaurant, Catch at theTerrace, is also top-notch. See p. 280.

• The Porches (North Adams, MA; & 413/664-0400): It may bestretching the definition of the“country inn” category, but this is toomuch fun to ignore. It was puttogether with six 19th-century work-men’s houses lined up opposite theMassachusetts Museum of Contem-porary Art, a new veranda runningacross their length. The wit of thedesigners is evident in the use ofpaint-by-the-numbers pictures andsublimely kitschy accessories, but lap-top rentals, DVD players, and Inter-net access ensure no 21st-centurydeprivation. See p. 358.

• Mayflower Inn & Spa (Washington,CT; & 860/868-9466): Not a toughcall at all for this part of the region:Immaculate in taste and execution, theMayflower is as close to perfection asany such enterprise is likely to be(although points off for whiffs ofexcess pretension). A genuine JoshuaReynolds hangs in the hall. See p. 375.

• Griswold Inn (Essex, CT; & 860/767-1776): “The Griz” has beenaccommodating sailors and travelersas long as any inn in the country, giveor take a decade. In all that time, ithas been a part of life and commercein the lower Connecticut River

Valley, always ready with a mug ofsuds, a haunch of beef, and a roaringfire. The walls are layered with nauti-cal paintings and memorabilia, andthey’ve even gotten up the nerve toadd a wine bar to the mix. See p. 400.

• The Equinox Resort (ManchesterVillage, VT; & 800/362-4747): Thisis southern Vermont’s grand resort,with nearly 200 rooms in a white-clapboard compound that seems togo on forever. The rooms are pleasantenough, but the real draws are thegrounds and the resort’s varied activi-ties—it’s set on 2,300 acres withpools, tennis courts, an 18-hole golfcourse, and even its own mountain-side. Tried everything on vacation?How about falconry classes or back-country driving at the Range Roverschool? See p. 474.

• Windham Hill Inn (West Townshend,VT; & 800/944-4080): Welcomeamenities such as air-conditioning inthe rooms and a conference room inthe barn have been added, while pre-serving the charm of this 1823 farm-stead. It’s at the end of a remote dirtroad in a high upland valley, and guestsare welcome to explore 160 privateacres on a network of walking trails. See p. 489.

• Twin Farms (Barnard, VT; & 800/894-6327): Just north of Woodstockmay be the most elegant inn in NewEngland. Its rates are a tad breathtak-ing, but guests are certainly pamperedhere. Novelist Sinclair Lewis once livedon this 300-acre farm, and today it’s anaesthetic retreat that offers serenity andexceptional food. See p. 493• The Pitcher Inn (Warren, VT; & 802/496-6350): Even though thisplace was built in 1997, it’s possessedof the graciousness of a longtime, well-worn inn. It combines traditional NewEngland form and scale with modernand luxe touches, plus a good dollopof whimsy. See p. 510.

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• Basin Harbor Club (Vergennes, VT;& 800/622-4000): Established in1886, this waterside gem is a classicfamily resort, with golf, tennis, boat-ing on Lake Champlain, jackets-required dining, stunning views, andevening lectures on the arts. Bringbooks and board games, and relearnwhat summer’s all about. See p. 532.

• White Barn Inn (Kennebunkport,ME; & 207/967-2321): Many ofthe White Barn’s staff hail fromEurope, and guests are treated with a

Continental graciousness that’s hardto match. Rooms, suites, and cottageshere are all a delight, and the meals(served in the barn) are among thebest in Maine. See p. 605.

• Claremont (Southwest Harbor, ME;& 800/244-5036): The 1884 Clare-mont is a Maine classic. This watersidelodge has everything a Victorian resortshould, including sparely decoratedrooms, creaky floorboards in the halls,great views of water and mountains,and a perfect croquet pitch. See p. 659.

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7 The Best Moderately Priced Accommodations• Newbury Guest House (Boston,

MA; & 800/437-7668): This lovelyproperty would be a good deal even ifit weren’t ideally located on NewburyStreet, Boston’s version of RodeoDrive. Rates even include breakfast.See p. 101.

• Pilgrim Sands Motel (Plymouth,MA; & 800/729-7263): The oceanviews and two pools (indoor and out-door) make this a great deal, whetheryou’re immersing yourself in Pilgrimlore or passing through on the wayfrom Boston to Cape Cod. See p. 193.

• White Horse Inn (Provincetown,Cape Cod, MA; & 508/487-1790):The very embodiment of Province-town funkiness, this inn has hostedsuch celebrities as filmmaker JohnWaters and poet laureate Robert Pin-sky. Rooms are short on amenitiesbut long on artiness. The apartments,cobbled together by innkeeper FrankSchaefer, are highly original and a lotof fun. See p. 258.

• Nauset House Inn (East Orleans,Cape Cod, MA; & 800/771-5508):This romantic 1810 farmhouse is likea sepia-toned vision of old Cape Cod.Recline in a wicker divan surroundedby fragrant flowers while the windwhistles outside. Better yet, stroll toNauset Beach and take a quiet walk

as the sun sets. Your genial hosts alsoprepare one of the finest breakfasts intown. See p. 241.

• Hopkins Inn (New Preston, CT; & 860/868-7295): This yellowfarmhouse bestows the top view ofLake Waramaug, and is at its best onsoft summer days when robust Alpinedishes can be taken out on the ter-race. The somewhat spartan roomsdon’t tempt winding-down guestswith either phones or TVs. The Hop-kins Vineyard is adjacent. See p. 377.

• Bee and Thistle Inn (Old Lyme, CT;& 800/622-4946): Known fordecades for its cuisine, this 1756house also has a detached cottage and11 pretty guest rooms, two of whichhave fireplaces. Easily one of the area’smost romantic weekend getaways, itsits on 5 acres beside the small Lieu-tenant River. See p. 399.

• Inn at the Mad River Barn (Waits-field, VT; & 800/631-0466): It takesa few minutes to adapt to the spartanrooms and no-frills accommodationshere. But you’ll soon discover that thereal action takes place in the livingroom and dining room, where skiersrelax and chat after a day on theslopes, and share heaping helpings atmealtime. See p. 510.

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• Legal Sea Foods (Boston, MA, andother locations; & 617/266-6800):Newcomers ask where to go for freshseafood, then react suspiciously whenI recommend a world-famous restau-rant instead of a local secret. No, it’sno secret—but it’s a wildly successfulchain for a reason. See p. 105.

• Mamma Maria (Boston, MA; & 617/523-0077): The best restaurant in therestaurant-choked North End is a farcry from the spaghetti-and-meatballsworkhorses that crowd this Italian-American neighborhood. The North-ern Italian cuisine at this elegant townhouse is something to write homeabout. See p. 108.

• 902 Main (South Yarmouth, CapeCod, MA; & 508/398-9902): Withfabulous service, an elegant atmos-phere, and to-die-for food, this is theplace to go for fine dining in the Mid-Cape. Entrees like filet mignon withportobello mushrooms, rack of lambwith truffle mashed potatoes, andhaddock with organic beets range willset you swooning. See p. 221.

• Atria (Edgartown, Martha’s Vine-yard, MA; & 508/627-5840): Thisfine-dining restaurant set in an 18th-century sea captain’s home gets ravereviews for its gourmet cuisine and itshigh-quality service. This is one ofthose places where you can just relaxand have a fantastic and memorablemeal, because the staff knows exactlywhat they are doing. See p. 285.

• Centre Street Bistro (Nantucket,MA; & 508/228-8470): Two of thebest chefs on the island, Ruth andTim Pitts, combine their talents atthis cozy little hole-in-the-wallrestaurant. The best part is that thisplace features wonderful, creative cui-sine at fairly reasonable prices, com-pared to other island fine-diningrestaurants. See p. 309.

• Zinc (Lenox, MA; & 413/637-8800): Setting the Berkshires culinarystandard ever since its opening, thisstylish, contemporary bistro impresseson every repeat visit. It looks great, forstarters, with its zinc bar, buffedwoods, and flowers everywhere. Mosteverything that arrives on a plate issupremely satisfying, joining familiar-ity with the French repertoire withcunning twists in execution. There are24 wines by the glass and an irre-sistible five-cheese tasting. See p. 350.

• Bespoke (New Haven, CT; & 203/562-4644): The preeminent new-ishrestaurant in Connecticut, Bespokehas been open since 2006. Food arrivesin one dazzling display after another:seafood chowder in a coconut milkbroth; roasted sea bass in a carrot-currybroth; and “Two-Way” duck, an Asian-style leg confit and breast withrhubarb-celery salad. The chef is fromthe late-lamented Roomba, a revela-tory exercise in the then-fresh NuevoLatino arena. See p. 386.

• Union League Café (New Haven, CT;& 203/562-4299): This august settingof arched windows and high ceilings ismore than 150 years old and was longthe sanctuary of an exclusive club. Itstill looks good, but the tone has beenlightened into an approximation of aLyonnaise brasserie. See p. 388.

• Scales & Shells (Newport, RI; & 401/846-3474): Ye who turn aside all osten-tation, get yourselves hence. There’snary a frill nor affectation anywherenear this place, and because the wide-open kitchen is right at the entrance,there are no secrets, either. What wehave here are marine critters merehours from the depths, prepared andpresented free of any but the slightestartifice. This might well be the purestseafood joint on the southern NewEngland coast. See p. 450.

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• Chantecleer (Manchester Center,VT; & 802/362-1616): Swiss chefMichel Baumann has been turningout dazzling dinners here since 1981,and the kitchen hasn’t gotten stale inthe least. The dining room in an oldbarn is magical, the staff helpful andfriendly. It’s a great spot for thosewho demand top-notch Continentalfare but don’t like the fuss of a fancyrestaurant. See p. 478.

• T. J. Buckley’s (Brattleboro, VT; & 802/257-4922): This tiny dineron a dark side street serves up outsizetastes prepared by a talented chef.Forget about stewed-too-long dinerfare; get in your mind big tastes blos-soming from the freshest of ingredi-ents prepared just right. See p. 487.

• Hemingway’s (Killington, VT; & 802/422-3886): Killington seemsan unlikely place for a serious culi-nary adventure, yet Hemingway’s willmeet the loftiest expectations. Themenu changes frequently to ensureonly the freshest of ingredients. If it’savailable, be sure to order a bowl ofthe wild mushroom and truffle soup.See p. 487.

• Arrows (Ogunquit, ME; & 207/361-1100): The emphasis at this ele-gant spot is on local products—oftenmany ingredients from nearbyorganic vegetable gardens. Prices are

not for the fainthearted, but the expe-rience is top-rate, from the cordialservice to the silver and linens. ExpectNew American fare informed by anAsian sensibility. See p. 602.

• White Barn Inn (Kennebunkport,ME; & 207/967-2321): The settingin an ancient, rustic barn is magical.The tables are set with floor-lengthtablecloths, and the chairs featureimported Italian upholstery. Thefood? To die for. Start with lobsterspring rolls, then enjoy entrees suchas roasted duck with juniper sauce orMaine lobster over fettuccine with acognac coral butter sauce. See p. 604.

• Fore Street (Portland, ME; & 207/775-2717): Fore Street is one ofnorthern New England’s most cele-brated restaurants. The chef ’s secret?Simplicity, and lots of it. Some of themost memorable meals are preparedover an apple-wood grill. See p. 614.

• Hugo’s (Portland, ME; & 207/774-8538): Chef Rob Evans has per-formed a CPR job on this once-proud bistro that’s been nothingshort of amazing; it now standsamong Maine’s finest restaurants.The tasting menus are especiallywonderful, and there’s an affiliatedBelgian-fries shop just down thestreet for guilty-pleasure dining aswell. See p. 614.

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9 The Best Local Dining Experiences• Durgin-Park (Boston, MA; & 617/

227-2038): A meal at this landmarkrestaurant might start with a waitressdropping a handful of cutlery in frontof you and saying, “Here, give theseout.” The surly service usually seemsto be an act, but it’s so much a part ofthe experience that some people aredisappointed when the waitresses arenice (as they often are). In any case,it’s worked since 1827. See p. 110.

• Woodman’s of Essex (Essex, MA; & 800/649-1773): This busy NorthShore institution is not for the faintof heart—or the hard of artery, unlessyou like eating corn and steamerswhile everyone around you is gob-bling fried clams and onion rings.The food at this glorified clam shackis fresh and delicious, and a look atthe organized pandemonium behindthe counter is worth the (reasonable)price. See p. 174.

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• Black Eyed Susan’s (Nantucket, MA;& 508/325-0308): This is extremelyexciting food in a funky bistro atmos-phere. The place is small, popular withlocals, and packed. Sitting at the dinercounter and watching the chef in actionis a show in itself. No credit cards, noreservations, and no liquor license areall an inconvenience, but if you can getpast all that, you’re in for a top-notchdining experience. See p. 309.

• Louis’ Lunch—The Very First(Well, Probably) Burgers (NewHaven, CT; & 203/562-5507): Nota lot of serious history has happenedin New Haven, but boosters claim itwas here that hamburgers wereinvented in 1900. This little lunch-eonette lives on, moved from its orig-inal site in order to save it. Thepatties are freshly ground daily, thrustinto vertical grills, and served onwhite toast. Garnishes are tomato,onion, and cheese. No ketchup andno fries, so don’t even ask. See p. 387.

• Pizza (New Haven, CT): The city’sclaim to America’s first pizza is awhole lot shakier than its claim to thefirst burgers, but New Haven has fewequals as purveyor of the ultrathin,charred variety of what they still call“apizza” in these parts, pronounced“ah-peetz.” Old-timer Frank Pepe’s,157 Wooster St. (& 203/865-5762),is usually ceded top rank among thelocal parlors, but it is joined by suchcontenders as Sally’s, 237 Wooster St.(& 203/624-5271), and ModernApizza, 874 State St. (& 203/776-5306). See p. 386.

• Abbott’s Lobster in the Rough(Noank, CT; & 860/536-7719):Places like this frill-free lobster shackabound along more northerly reachesof the New England coast, but here’sa little bit o’ Maine a Sunday drivefrom Manhattan. Shore dinners rule,so roll up sleeves, tie on napkins, and

dive into platters of boiled shrimpand steamed mussels, and dunk hotlobster chunks in pots of drawn but-ter. See p. 410.

• Johnnycakes and Stuffies (RI):Most worthy regional food faveseventually become known to thewider world (witness Buffalo wings).But the Ocean State still has sometaste treats that are mysteries beyondits borders. “Johnnycakes” are flap-jacks made with cornmeal, whichcome small and plump or wide andlacy, depending upon family tradi-tion. “Stuffies” are the baby-fist-sizequahog (KWAH-og or KOE-hog)clams barely known elsewhere inNew England. The flesh is choppedup, combined with minced bell pep-pers and bread crumbs, and packedback into both halves of the shell. Seechapter 11.

• Blue Benn Diner (Bennington, VT;& 802/442-5140): This 1945 SilkCity diner has a barrel ceiling, acresof stainless steel, and a vast menu.Don’t overlook specials scrawled onpaper and taped all over the walls.And leave room for a slice of deliciouspie, such as blackberry, pumpkin, orchocolate cream. See p. 470.

• Bove’s (Burlington, VT; & 802/864-6651): A Burlington landmarksince 1941, Bove’s is a classic red-sauce-on-spaghetti joint that’s athrowback to a lost era. The red sauceis rich and tangy, and the garlic saucepacks enough garlic to knock youclear out of your booth. See p. 534.

• Al’s French Frys (South Burlington,VT; & 802/862-9203): This iswhere Ben and Jerry go to eat frenchfries—as does every other potatoaddict in the state. See p. 534.

• Lou’s (Hanover, NH; & 603/643-3321): Huge crowds flock to Lou’s,just down the block from the Dartmouth campus, for breakfast on

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weekends. Fortunately, breakfast isserved all day here, and the sandwicheson fresh-baked bread are huge anddelicious. See p. 562.

• Becky’s (Portland, ME; & 207/773-7070): Five different kinds of homefries on the menu? It’s breakfast nir-vana at this local institution on theworking waterfront. It’s a favoredhangout of fishermen, high-school

kids, businessmen, and just abouteveryone else. See p. 616.

• Silly’s (Portland, ME; & 207/772-0360): Hectic and fun, this tiny,informal, kitschy restaurant serves updelicious finger food, like pita wraps,hamburgers, and pizza. The milk-shakes alone are worth the detour.See p. 617.

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10 The Best of the Performing Arts• Symphony Hall (Boston, MA;

& 617/266-1492): Home to theBoston Symphony Orchestra, theBoston Pops, and other local and visiting groups and performers, this is a perfect (acoustically and other-wise) destination for classical music.See p. 140.

• Hatch Shell (Boston, MA; & 617/626-1250): This amphitheater onthe Charles River Esplanade playshost to free music, dance perform-ances, and films almost all summer.Around the Fourth of July, the BostonPops provide the entertainment.Bring a blanket to sit on. See p. 140.

• The Nutcracker (Boston, MA; & 800/447-7400 for tickets): NewEngland’s premier family-orientedholiday event is Boston Ballet’sextravaganza. When the Christmastree grows through the floor, evenfidgety preadolescents forget thatthey think they’re too cool to be here.See p. 140.

• The Comedy Connection at FaneuilHall (Boston, MA; & 617/ 248-9700):Even in the Athens of America, it’snot all high culture. The biggestnational names and the funniest localcomics take the stage at this hot spot.See p. 143.

• The Berkshire Theatre Festival(Stockbridge, MA; & 413/298-5576): An 1887 “casino” and con-verted barn mount both new and

classic plays from June to late Augustin one of the prettiest towns in theBerkshires. Name artists on the orderof Joanne Woodward and Kevin Klineare often listed as actors and directorsin the annual playbill. See p. 340.

• The Jacob’s Pillow Dance Festival(Becket, MA; & 413/243-0745):Celebrated dancer/choreographerMartha Graham made this her sum-mertime performance space fordecades. Guest troupes are among theworld’s best, often including MarkMorris Dance Group, Les GrandsBallets Canadiens, and Twyla Tharp.The growing campus includes a store,pub, dining room, and tent restau-rant. See p. 343.

• Tanglewood Music Festival (Lenox,MA; & 617/266-1492): By far themost dominating presence on NewEngland’s summer cultural front, themusic festival that takes place on thismagnificent Berkshires estate is thesummer playground for the BostonSymphony Orchestra. Room is alsomade for such guest soloists as ItzhakPerlman and Yo-Yo Ma, as well aspopular artists including James Tay-lor, Bonnie Raitt, and WyntonMarsalis. See p. 346.

• Williamstown Theatre Festival(Williamstown, MA; & 413/597-3400): Classic, new, and avant-gardeplays are all presented during theJune-through-August season at this

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venerable festival. There are twostages, one for works by establishedplaywrights, the smaller second venuefor less mainstream or experimentalplays. See p. 357.

• Summer in Newport (RI): FromMemorial Day to Labor Day, only ascheduling misfortune will deny

visitors the experience of an outdoormusical event. In calendar order, thehighlights (well short of all-inclusive)are the Newport Music Festival, inJuly; the Dunkin’ Donuts NewportFolk Festival and JVC Jazz Festival,in August; and the Waterfront IrishFestival, in September. See p. 433.

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11 The Best Destinations for Antiques Hounds• Charles Street (Boston, MA): Bea-

con Hill is one of the city’s oldestneighborhoods, and at the foot of thehill is a thoroughfare that’s equallysteeped in history. Hundreds of years’worth of furniture, collectibles, andaccessories jam the shops along its 5blocks. River Street, which runs paral-lel to Charles (follow Chestnut St. 1block), is worth a look, too. See p. 138.

• Main Street, Essex (MA): The treas-ures on display in this North Shoretown run the gamut, from “one stepabove yard sale” to “one step belownationally televised auction.” FollowRoute 133 west of Route 128through downtown and north almostall the way to the Ipswich border. See“Cape Ann” in chapter 6.

• Route 6A: The Old King’s Highway(Cape Cod, MA): Antiques buffs, aswell as architecture and country-roadconnoisseurs, will have a field dayalong scenic Route 6A. Designated aRegional Historic District, this for-mer stagecoach route winds througha half-dozen charming villages and islined with scores of antiques shops.The largest concentration is in Brew-ster, but you’ll find good pickings allalong this meandering road, fromSandwich to Orleans. See chapter 7.

• Brimfield Antique and CollectibleShows (Brimfield, MA): The other-wise sleepy town west of Sturbridgeerupts with three monster shows

every summer, in mid-May, mid-July,and early September. Upward of6,000 dealers set up tented and table-top shops in fields around town. Call& 800/628-8379 for details, andbook room reservations far inadvance. See p. 315.

• Sheffield (MA): This southernmosttown in the Berkshires is home to atleast two dozen dealers in collectibles,Americana, military memorabilia,English furniture of the Georgianperiod, silverware, and weather vanes. . . even antique birdhouses. Most ofthem are strung along Route 7, with aworthwhile detour west along Route23 in South Egremont. See p. 334.

• Woodbury (CT): More than 30high-end dealers along Main Streetoffer a diversity of precious treasures,near-antiques, and simply funky oldstuff. American and European furni-ture and other pieces are most evi-dent, but there are forays into craftsand assorted whimsies as well. Pickup the directory of the WoodburyAntiques Dealers Association, avail-able in most shops. See p. 373.

• Newfane and Townshend (VT): Ahandful of delightful antiques shopsare hidden in and around these pic-ture-perfect towns. But the real drawis the Sunday flea market, held justoff Route 30 north of Newfane,where you never know what mightturn up. See p. 488.

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• Portsmouth (NH): Picturesquedowntown Portsmouth is home to ahalf-dozen or so antiques stores andsome fine used-book shops. For moremeaty browsing, head about 25 milesnorthwest on Route 4 to Northwood,where a dozen good-size shops flankthe highway. See “Portsmouth” inchapter 13.

• Route 1, Kittery to Scarborough(ME): Antiques scavengers delight inthis 37-mile stretch of less-than-sce-nic Route 1. Antiques minimalls andhigh-class junk shops alike are scat-tered all along the route, thoughthere’s no central antiques zone. See“The Southern Maine Coast” inchapter 14.

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