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1THE BEST OF SHÀNGHĂI

Featured prominently in the world’s newspapers and

business and travel magazines in 2010, Shànghăi, as

host of the 2010 World Expo, has once again

become the latest “It” city of the world. And yet, even

before the Expo shone the world spotlight on China’s larg-

est city, visitors have been steadily flocking here through-

out the first decade of the 21st century. Much like in the first

half of the 20th century, many are drawn by curiosity, a

sense of possibility, the lure of potential professional and

financial success, or perhaps simply a desire to be in the

coolest, brashest, and most exciting city in the new century.

Today, Shànghăi is all that and more. While the city lacks

the classical Chinese monuments of Bĕijīng, its colonial

legacy gives it a character all its own. This museum of East

meets West on Chinese soil is China’s capital of commerce,

industry, and finance, and the one city that best shows

where China is headed in the 21st century.

Following is a list of Shànghâi’s highlights, both the obvious and the more offbeat choices in this unique city. But don’t just take our word for it: Come and experience this dynamic, must-see city for yourself.

THE MOST UNFORGETTABLE SHÀNGHĂI EXPERIENCESW Strolling the Bund: The most widely known street in Asia, with its

gorgeous colonial buildings that were the banks, hotels, trading firms, and private clubs of foreign taipans (bosses of old Shànghâi’s trading firms) and adventurers past, deserves to be walked over and over again, especially now that it has been given a US$700-million face-lift. See

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1 up close the exquisite architectural details of the Peace Hotel, the Customs House, the former Hong Kong and Shànghâi Bank, and scores of other buildings, some lavishly restored, others closed and awaiting development. Then head across the street to the Bund Promenade, which has been widened and gussied up with new trees and park benches. Here you can mingle with the masses while admiring the splendor and grandeur of old Shànghâi on the one side, and the gleaming promise of new Shànghâi on the other side of the river. After you’ve seen it by day, come back again at night for a different perspective. See “Walking Tour 1” on p. 200.

W Admiring the Collections in the Shànghăi Museum: China’s finest, most modern, and most memorable museum of historic relics has disappointed almost no visitor since it opened in the heart of People’s Square. Make it a top priority, and allow a few hours more than you planned on. See p. 163.

W Surveying Shànghăi from Up High: After crossing the Huángpû River from old Shànghâi to the new Shànghâi, enjoy the ultimate panorama from either the sphere atop the Oriental Pearl TV Tower; the 88th-floor observatory of the J∫n Mào Tower; or the 100th-floor all-glass observation deck of the new Shànghâi World Financial Center. All three rank as some of Asia’s tallest structures. On a clear day, you can see forever. Alternatively, if you don’t want to be glassed in, climb the Lúpû Bridge in the southern part of the French Concession for a spectacular view of the 2010 World Expo grounds. See p. 188, 187, 190, and 188.

W Cruising the Huángpŭ River: A 27km (17-mile) pleasure cruise from the Bund to the mouth of the mighty Yángzî River, past endless wharves, factories, and tankers at anchor, gives substance to Shànghâi’s claim as China’s largest port and the fact that nearly half of China’s trade with the outside world travels these same waters. A shorter 1-hour cruise, and an abbreviated 30-minute cruise from the Pûd∂ng side, do not convey the full importance of the river, but they will suffice if you’re pressed for time. See p. 165.

W Shopping ’til You Drop: To paraphrase a local saying, if you haven’t shopped, you haven’t been to Shànghâi. Savvy locals know if you want greater choice and better deals, Huáihâi Lù, with its slew of international boutiques and large department stores, is the place to shop. Branching off and parallel to Huáihâi Lù, Màomíng Lù, Xìnglè Lù, and Chánglè Lù are also home to a number of delightful small shops. Even if you’re the kind of person who only shops once a year, a visit to Nánj∫ng Lù, the “Number One Shopping Street in China” is practically required, if only for a chance to marvel (or shudder) at the sheer numbers of people, people, people everywhere! A pedestrian mall makes strolling and browsing that much easier and that much more crowded. Finally, Tàikàng Lù, with its ever-growing block of small shops, artists’ studios, and outdoor cafes, makes for a delightful afternoon of shopping. See “Walking Tour 2: Nánj∫ng Lù” on p. 207, and see chapter 9 for shopping listings.

W Bargaining for Antiques & Fakes: Shànghâi has any number of antiques markets where you can hone your bargaining skills. Two of the top choices are the more touristy D∂ngtái Lù Antique Market and the slightly more ragtag but colorful Fúyòu Market in the old Chinese city (at the western end of Shànghâi’s restored old street, Shànghâi Lâo Ji√). Half the fun is in rifling through all the personal collections of memorabilia and antiques that the vendors seem to have scavenged; the other half is in dramatically protesting the high prices quoted, walking away,


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1then being called back by a vendor newly willing to deal. The same process and joys of bargaining apply when trying to purchase knockoff designer goods, but caveat emptor. See p. 228 for warnings about knockoff purchases, and see p. 227 for antiques markets.

W Rediscovering Shànghăi’s Jewish Past: In the mid–19th century, Sephardic Jews from the Middle East helped make Shànghâi a great city. In the mid–20th cen-tury, thousands of Jewish refugees flooded the International Settlement north of the Bund. Today, this history can be encountered at the former Ohel Moshe Synagogue, today renamed the Shànghâi Jewish Refugee Museum, with an exhibit documenting life in this little-known but important Jewish ghetto. The Ohel Rachel Synagogue has also been restored and is open for Shabbat prayers and meals. See p. 170.

W Soaking in Shànghăi’s Night Views: The night views of the Bund and Pûd∂ng are simply not to be missed. Viewing options include dining at one of the Bund res-taurants, such as M on the Bund or Laris, and then crossing the river to Jade on 36 in Pûd∂ng for a nightcap (you can also reverse the order). Better yet, savor the best of both worlds by finishing off the evening at Vue bar at Hyatt on the Bund where you can behold the nightlights on both shores of the Huángpû River, while soaking in an outdoor Jacuzzi! See chapter 6 for dining options and chapter 10 for bars.

W Watching the Acrobats: This has “TOURIST” stamped all over it, but it’s never-theless a totally worthwhile pleasure, especially since Shànghâi’s dazzling troupes are rightly considered China’s very finest at this ancient craft. See chapter 10.

W Sampling Shànghăi’s Jazz Scene: The famous Peace Hotel Jazz Band, decamped elsewhere for the past 2 years, has at long last returned to its original stomping grounds in the now-restored Peace Hotel. If the band’s nightly perfor-mances of New Orleans–style jazz, with some members who have been playing here since before the Revolution in 1949, are too tame or nostalgic for you, mod-ern and more improvisational jazz can be heard at a number of true-blue joints: the Cotton Club, JZ Club, and the House of Blues and Jazz. See p. 249 for jazz bars.

W Drifting in a Gondola Through a Water Village: There are any number of pictur-esque “water villages” near Shànghâi where you can be paddled in a gondola along streams and canals as you pass traditional arched bridges, quaint stone houses, and classical Chinese gardens. Two villages stand out: Tónglî and Nánxún. Also, both have additional sights worth seeing and considerably smaller crowds than at tourist traps like Zh∂u Zhu≈ng, but see them soon. See p. 276 and 273.

THE best SPLURGE HOTELSW The Peninsula Shànghăi (Zh∂ngsh≈n D∂ng Y∫ Lù 32, Huángpû; & 021/2327-

2888): The Peninsula Shànghâi marks the return of the Hong Kong and Shànghâi Hotels Limited to Shànghâi after 60 years (the company was originally founded in Shànghâi in 1866)—and what a welcome and glorious return it has been. From its enviable location at the top of the Bund, to its gorgeous Art Deco interiors, from its Rolls-Royce limousines to its standard-setting afternoon tea, from its unmatched in-room amenities to its award-winning fine dining, the Peninsula shows how it’s done. Don’t miss it! See p. 87.


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1 W Park Hyatt Shànghăi (Shìjì Dàdào 100, World Financial Center, Pûd∂ng; & 021/6888-1234): This exclusive, top-of-the-Hyatt-line hotel is the world’s tallest hotel, if height matters to you. It’s not the most conveniently located hotel, but the huge rooms (the largest in the city) with high ceilings, elegant decor, comfortable beds, unparalleled views (on a clear day, that is), and thoroughly modern bathrooms with state-of-the-art showers and automated bidets have all garnered high praise. See p. 103.

W Fairmont Peace Hotel (Nánj∫ng D∂ng Lù 20, Huángpû; & 021/6321-6888): Shànghâi’s most famous historical hotel was just reopening at press time (after being closed for the last 2 years), and was unavailable for our review, but we are preemptively including it here. We think (and hope), based on a ¥500-million renovation price tag, that the restorations will be faithful and perhaps even sur-pass our expectations, and that the new joint management by the Fairmont Hotels group and the local Jînji≈ng chain will once again make the Peace Shànghâi’s top destination hotel. See p. 86.

W Mansion Hotel (X∫nlè Lù 82, Xúhuì; & 021/5403-9888): If you want to be transported back in time to Shànghâi in the 1930s, then the exclusive boutique Mansion Hotel, right in the heart of the French Concession, is where you want to lodge. At this refurbished old mansion, you’ll get to experience all of today’s luxurious amenities in a nostalgic colonial setting. See p. 95.

W Amanfayun (Fâyún Nòng 22, X∫húji√dào, Hángzh∂u; (& 0571/8732-9999): This exclusive luxury resort (disguised as a traditional tea village) is alone worth making a trip to Hángzh∂u, especially if you’re looking for a quiet and private retreat. Guests stay in traditional (but restored and unmarked) village houses nestled in the hills west of Hángzh∂u’s famous X∫ Hú (West Lake). Rooms have daybeds, sofas, under-floor heating, and free broadband Internet, but no bathtubs or televisions. Yes, the whole of Hángzh∂u awaits your exploration, but if you’d just prefer to hike in the surrounding hills, or wake up early and join the monks in prayer at the neighboring Yôngfú Temple, or simply pamper yourself silly at the Aman spa, it’s just as good. See p. 272.

THE best MODERATELY PRICED HOTELSW Quintet (Chánglè Lù 808, Jìng ∑n; & 021/6249-9088): For those who want to

wake up in a typical 1930s Shànghâi lòngtáng (lane) house, and who don’t need a lot of hotel facilities, this delightful bed-and-breakfast in the French Concession will deliver the goods. You’ll walk on original hardwood floors, but sleep in com-fortable, modern beds and have access to Wi-Fi. You’ll also smell the aromas and hear the sounds of daily life in the lòngtáng. It’s nothing fancy, but it’s authentic, charming, and reasonably priced. See p. 100.

W Captain Hostel (Fúzh∂u Lù 37, Huángpû; & 021/6323-5053): Lodged in a 1920s Art Deco building just steps from the Bund, this popular maritime-themed hostel offers clean dorms and simple double “cabins” for around ¥400 after dis-count, a whopping good bargain for its location. After a hard day’s sightseeing, you can sip a cold beer on the rooftop bar (which has fabulous views of Pûd∂ng) and be grateful you weren’t shanghaied like a sailor of yore. See p. 90.


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1THE MOST UNFORGETTABLE DINING EXPERIENCESW Tackling Hairy Crab: The name says it all. The signature dish of Shànghâi is

absolutely scrumptious, but it’s seasonal (autumn) and best enjoyed at a big local restaurant. See chapter 6.

W Rooftop Dining on the Bund: Whether it’s savoring world-class cuisine on the open-air balcony of M on the Bund, or enjoying a romantic dinner for two catered by world-renowned chefs in the cupola atop Three on the Bund, dining high above Asia’s most famous street is a heady experience not to be missed. See p. 111.

W Eating Xiăolóng Bāo: Unless you’re a vegetarian, not trying Shànghâi’s favorite (pork) dumpling while you’re here is tantamount in some circles to not having visited Shànghâi at all. The “little steamed breads” spill broth in your mouth when you bite into them. You can find them everywhere, but Crystal Jade Restaurant (p. 116) serves up the best in the city. For tips on how to eat it without scalding your tongue, see “Shànghâi’s Favorite Dumpling” on p. 134.

W Savoring Shànghăi’s Street Food: This activity could well top all of the others in this category, so fun and delicious is it to snack your way through town on dishes that you’ll likely not find at home. You aren’t required to try the chòu dòufu (stinky tofu), but do have the sh√ngji≈n b≈o (pork-stuffed fried bread dumplings) and j∫dàn bîng (egg pancake). The more locals in the part of town, the more likely you’ll find it on any street. Or head to Sìpáilóu Ji√ in the old Chinese city or the corner of Chánglè Lù and Xi≈ngyáng Lù in the French Concession. See p. 118.

W Dining in a Colonial Mansion: These days, it’s easy to find a restored old mansion for dinner, but two standouts that combine just the right colonial ambience with delicious food are Fu 1088, serving excellent Shanghainese cuisine in private dining rooms in a restored mansion, and el Willy, dishing out tapas and paella in the loveliest of garden settings. See p. 130 and 120.

THE best THINGS TO DO FOR FREEW People-Watch: One of our favorite activities. It’s free, it’s fascinating, and you

may learn more about today’s China in an hour of people-watching than you would in a day spent on a tour bus. You can do this practically anywhere, at a park or a major intersection, but the best spots may be in People’s Square, along Nánj∫ng Lù Pedestrian Mall, on Huáihâi Lù, on the Bund Promenade, or at X∫nti≈ndì, where you are almost certain to see some wild and woolly mix of belea-guered tourists, both Chinese and foreign, along with newly minted business folk, trendy young fashionistas, uniformed school children, strolling seniors, and, of course, whistle-blowing traffic cops. One of the more interesting sights in recent years has been the “matchmaking market” that has sprouted in People’s Park (Rénmín G∂ngyuán) on weekends as parents show up in droves hoping to find matches for their still-single adult children.


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1 W Morning Exercises in the Parks and on the Bund: There’s no better way to greet the day than to join the thousands of Shànghâi residents in their morning tai chi exercises (and occasionally Western ballroom dancing) in Shànghâi’s parks and on the Bund. While the Bund is preferable (the first golden rays hitting the colonial facades are truly something to behold), the newly refurbished Bund promenade seems to have deterred residents from coming out as before. See chapter 7 for details on the Bund and on Shànghâi parks.

W Wander the Old Chinese City: The narrow winding alleys of the old Chinese city may strike some as mysterious and forbidding, but they are neither of these, and are worth exploring even beyond the walking tours in chapter 8. Here is a chance to come upon a wet market, or run into the increasingly rare sight of a night soil worker on his morning rounds (many houses in this part of town still lack indoor plumbing). See it before the bulldozer shows up. See “Walking Tour 3” on p. 214.

W Stroll the French Concession: This is the most interesting of the colonial districts left in Shànghâi, filled with the gorgeous villas, mansions, and apartment houses of the 1920s and 1930s when the French made their mark here. Plenty of Art Deco gems abound, hidden behind years of grime and buried beneath webs of laundry poles, and they await discovery, so keep your head up. See “Walking Tour 4: French Concession” on p. 218.


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