the best in anguilla destination guide - issue 8, winter 2016

E X C L U S I V E L Y F R O M T H E G U E S T V A N T A G E P O I N T

2016 C.M./AnguillaTripReports.com 1

Anguilla

Curated CollectionWhat's inside these pagesThe following pages were born out of a beach lover's curiosity. Before stepping foot on this beloved paradise, a dream travel folder labeled Anguilla started gathering information and insights from discerning travelers on various travel forums. When we finally landed ourselves, I took copious notes and began chronicling the trips in words and photos to share with those online "friends" who led us to becoming repeat guests. Years of research and trip reports evolved into this booklet. With a former background in the hospitality industry, you can expect extreme attention to detail and high standards reflected in these recommendations. This guide is not an exhaustive compilation of all island options, but rather a carefully curated selection of the very best places to stay, eat, and experience based on real-life guest experiences. These pages reflect the fruit of our hunt for

distinctive establishments with a track record of satisfied guests, comfortable beds, luxurious and clean surroundings, gracious hospitality, and delicious fare. There are no stock photos, no paid advertisements, and no commissions. This is simply shared information - by travelers, for travelers - in hopes that it leads to your own memorable getaway.

Share your storyWe'd love to hear about your Anguilla trips - and any tips you have for fellow guests!

Join the conversation at: Instagram.com/AnguillaTripReports Facebook.com/AnguillaTripReports

Don't know where to begin? It can be as simple as a "10 Things I Loved Best" list - or even just post a photo from your stay. Repeat guests love island dispatches of any length! AnguillaTripReports.com is a place for travelers to post and share memories to stay inspired in between getaways. Enjoy!

Pronounced An-gwil-a, this small and flat island (16 miles long by 3 miles wide) is known for stunning beaches and delicious fare. Travelers often make repeat visits due to local hospitality, low crime rates, and the absence of high rises, cruise ships, and plentiful nightlife. Tranquility abounds. All photos and text were created by travelers, for travelers. Share your story: AnguillaTripReports.com Issue N 8 Winter 2016

Island Overview On the island of Anguilla, you will meet tourists who have made 15, 20, and even 25+ visits to the island! Many stopped trying other Caribbean islands once they visited Anguilla. Their advice and repeat behavior illustrates what a captivating place Anguilla can be.

Is Anguilla a good fit for you?While planning any vacation, it is important to ensure that your expectations and desires match the destination. If you are looking for world famous turquoise beaches with kind locals and plenty of fresh seafood, then keep reading. If you enjoy varied nightlife, high adventure activities, serious snorkeling, and mountainous or lush islands, then you will want to look for a different place to visit.Any travel to a foreign country usually begs a question about safety. Anguilla has a low crime rate; just like any domestic city, be wise with your belongings and presence in certain areas after dark, but we do not worry here. The island is not impoverished, though you will see half finished homes since residents build in stages, given that mortgages are virtually non-existent in the local culture.

TransportationHow to get here, rental cars, island activities, travel websites, and businesses that are popular with travelers.Page 11-13

AccommodationsAn overview of some of the most popular and discussed properties online. Real life coverage includes photos and commentary regarding experiences at Cap Juluca, Viceroy, Covecastles, Las EsQuinas, Frangipani and more.Pages 3-10

DiningHighlights and contact information for top-rated restaurants on the island, as well as grocery item sources.Page 14-15

Travel TipsActivities, excursions, and random island details. As well as a packing list to use for traveling to the island with carry-on luggage only. (Which will help expedite transfer at the airport and get your feet in the sand faster!) Pages 2 and 11

H i g h l i g h t s I n s i d e . . .

The Best in

2 2016 C.M./AnguillaTripReports.com

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Activities and ExcursionsWhile Anguilla is known for its relaxing beaches and quality dining, if your personality prefers a little more action, there are a variety of ways to spend your time without a good book, comfortable chair, and a fruity cocktail in your hand. Pricing and availability varies, be sure to ask your accommodation's concierge staff for the most up-to-date information and recommendations. Popular suggestions:Boating, Water Sports, and Stand-up Paddleboard Rentals: Various resorts offer water sports, deep sea fishing trips, scuba diving lessons, and sunset cruises. Concierge desks can put you in touch with private boat and sport operators, but you can also contact the following companies directly. These operators receive positive feedback by travelers: Sea Pro for boat rides and SUP-board rental (264-584-0074), Tradition Sailing (264-476-7245) for sunset cruises, and Juniors Glass Bottom Boat (264-235-1008) for snorkeling tours. And Calvin at Crocus Bay for boat rides to Little Bay.Horseback Riding on the Beach: SeasideStablesAnguilla.com near Cove Bay.Day Trips: I cannot imagine leaving the island, but there are scheduled and charter flights to St. Barths and St. Maarten. Ferries run to St. Maarten daily. For shorter excursions including food and snorkeling, the Dining Section (page 14) mentions close outlying islands.Nature Trails, Bike Tours, and Historic Tours: Check with the tourist board for details at visitanguilla.com; Ronnie Bryan hosts bike tours: bryanscarrentals.com.Golf: Temenos is the islands only golf course; it was designed by Greg Norman and is owned and operated by Cuisinart Resort.Art/Shopping: Limin Boutique, Savannah Gallery, Cheddie's and Lynne Bernbaums Gallery are a few favorites. Lynne also hosts a painting class open to the public at Viceroy ($45). Contact her directly ([email protected]) for private parties.

Pharmacy/Sunscreen: If you need pharmacy supplies, Paramount Pharmacy has a variety of options, as do groceries for over the counter medications. If you dont bring it from home, four bottles of the pharmacys 4-ounce sunscreen (~$8/each) is the right amount for two sunburn-prone adults staying eight to nine nights. To get to the pharmacy: driving from the West End, after passing Jumbo Plaza, it is on the left at the bottom of the hill, set back in an area that looks a little more industrial.Massage Therapy: If you are looking for someone to come to your balcony instead of visiting a spa at one of the resorts, the following massage therapists are regularly recommended on travel message boards: Jill Walker ([email protected] or [email protected], 497-6066, 264-582-7780, 919-913-5077) and Susi ([email protected], 264-235-8399).Safety Info/Tsunami: The West End's highest elevations are near the Shell Gas and Malliouhana Resort. The islands highest point is Crocus Hill.Gratuities: Check your bills as most properties and restaurants include a standard 10-15% gratuity for staff; additional monies are your discretion.Public Book Exchange: Fat Cat GourmetMosquito Milk: Insect repellant is a must on the island. If you have sensitive skin and get deep red marks every single place you roll on the Mosquito Milk, try the spray version which is available at the pharmacy. Store it in a zip lock between uses or it will leak in your beach bag.Water: If complimentary bottled water is not included, a good rule of thumb is to buy enough to have 1 liter per day for each person. Some properties have filtered water with re-fillable bottles for guest use. Reservations: When choosing to stay at one of the larger resorts, be sure to check with a Virtuoso-affiliated travel agent before making your reservation. Often they can reserve the same specials found online, plus a complimentary upgrade, daily breakfast, and a welcome amenity.Cash/Credit cards: Dont forget to keep enough cash on hand to pay the departure tax, which is currently $20/person. You may want to ensure that your credit card is able to be used internationally without extra fees. Many restaurants no longer accept American Express.Trip Insurance: Having met tourists who had to rely on island medical care during an unexpected accident, and based on their feedback, be prepared. Purchasing trip insurance and/or medical evacuation products (such as Medjet Assist) is recommended on various travel forums.Books: Emily Crowes blog mixes entertaining Anguilla trip reports with book reviews. She also excels at making book recommendations based on your preferences and she can ship them to you from her bookstore prior to your travels. www.asthecrowefliesandreads.blogspot.com

Anguilla Forums and WebsitesMessage boards and helpful Anguilla-themed websites:- www.tripadvisor.com/ShowForum-g147238- www.anguilla-beaches.com (great aerial videos)- http://travelaol.yuku.com/forums/134/Anguilla- www.anguillaforum.com (currently offline, but it

was a useful and popular website by Gayle with MyCaribbean so it is listed in case it returns)

Details and Travel Tips


AccommodationsAll men, whilst they are awake, are in one common world: but each of

them, when he is asleep, is in a world of his own.

Plutarch

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A special Rhum Bake breakfast during a stay in Little Harbor.

Overnight PreferencesAs you plan a trip to Anguilla, there are a variety of accommodation types to match your needs. The options covered in this guide are not meant to be exhaustive, but merely highlight experiences, preferences, and research gleaned from message board forums and feedback from happy guests. Some things to keep in mind: you will find travelers that in general prefer to stay either on the East End of the island (Shoal Bay East is a very popular beach) or the West End, or places in between. The coverage contained in these pages is somewhat weighted toward the West End, as that is the side of the island with the most resorts and where we first fell in love with the island. For another perspective, I encourage you to dive into the popular Anguilla TripAdvisor forum and you will find people who equally love and repeat trips to the other areas. This booklet will be updated to include new upscale properties as they open.My criteria and standards, particularly as reflected in longer trip reports online, are admittedly high. Having worked in the hospitality industry, I tend to look closer at details than most travelers. This is

both a blessing and a curse! Even though such details will not make or break your day at the beach, since my eyes cannot help but notice such trivial aspects of a stay, rest assured that reviews are thorough and honest as to the state of affairs. And all photos are original (never stock photos) to give you the view of a genuine guest experience.No place is perfect, and we all have off days. That said, any place included on the following pages we have experienced firsthand or I have read enough about it to be a strong contender for future trips.There are definitely less expensive options on the island than you will find in these pages; check out TripAdvisor or other sites to find budget-friendly alternatives. Properties here are curated as the best in consistently providing a memorable stay, furnishings in good repair, comfortable beds, and cleanliness. (Great housekeeping can single-handedly make or break a first impression.)To date, we have not rented a stand-alone villa. If you seek more privacy, you may want to consider third-party websites such as wheretostay.com or islanddreamproperties.com to research villa options. One day we do plan to add villa content.


Moorish in architecture, Cap Juluca is a full-service resort on one of the most beautiful beaches in the world.70-Room Resort with all beachfront ocean views

Our initial impressions of Cap Juluca were stunning. The friendly greeting, rum punch, landscaping, and main building all made a positive impact. In room, the bed is comfortable and we liked the louvered doors and ability to hear the ocean and let sea breezes in. (Some rooms now have glass doors, so inquire based on your preference when making a reservation). It was a treat to see blue skies while getting ready each day with the natural sunlight coming through the bathroom solarium, available in select rooms. The real reason to stay at Cap Juluca is the stunning beach, with St. Maarten visible in the distance. And the complimentary beach service during the trip was first-rate: frozen fruit passed in the morning, ice cold towels around lunchtime, sorbet in the afternoon, cookies towards the end of the day, and bottled water was replenished throughout the day for guests.At night, the atmosphere is quiet and romantic. On clear evenings you can see thousands of twinkling stars in the sky. One trip, I journaled: I need more adjectives. How many words can adequately describe such beauty? And because of the great beauty, we gladly overlooked a few finicky details related to

items in need of maintenance or housekeeping, and on-site food experiences. Be sure to check out the variety of stellar restaurants within a short driving distance of the resort. To book, look for Cap Julucas occasional flash sales or special promotions if you want to offset the rising rates in light of some decline in value. The fact remains that Cap Juluca is a jewel, with the best beach and view on the island!

Cap Juluca has historically been the crown jewel among lodging properties on the island. With legal and financial problems in recent years and delayed renovations, guests may need to overlook occasional imperfections. However, all rooms are beachfront and share Maundays Bay, a exceedingly gorgeous crescent beach.

Keep Reading For a detailed trip report, contact us at

www.AnguillaTripReports.com Cap Juluca: (888) 858-5822 Website: www.capjuluca.com

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Cap Juluca


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Frangipani

Directly on Meads Bay, Frangipani is a boutique property with sunset views, warm hospitality, and water sports. 19-Room Beachfront Resort with varying room views

Frangipanis comfortable accommodations, unique personality and smaller size create a delightful option on Meads Bay beach. The queen bed provided sound sleep, housekeeping was fantastic, and the waves beckoned mere steps from the door. Pest control was impressive - an island first was never seeing a single inside ant throughout the entire stay!The property includes a beautiful infinity edge pool overlooking the beach. Cocktails are accessible from nearby Straw Hat restaurant, and a Straw Hat representative is even available to take lunch orders and deliver fare to your lounger so you can relax longer under your umbrella. Beach chairs dont go fully flat for naps if you are a stomach sleeper, however, a full-flat set of cushioned lounge furniture is expertly located by the pool if you like outdoor afternoon siestas. Complimentary water sports include skiing, tubing, and Hobie cat sailing. The boutique property is also environmentally conscious, providing refillable water bottles upon check-in and using solar power to heat water (short showers due to temperature were necessary on one occasion). While at Frangipani, my husband and I discussed its potential to be a contender

against top-tier resorts. Since the time of our stay, new managers have taken the helm and have perfected operations based on Trip Advisor reviews. The guest experience has been further refined with new work-out facilities, a conference room, and villa option. During one of Anguillas infamous holiday sailing races, we heard the new owners welcome guests on a special boat ride excursion to view the action from waterfront seats. That type of spontaneous hospitality sets Frangipani apart and has us eager to return.

Frangipani has built a solid following among guests looking for a smaller hotel experience on Meads Bay Beach. Guest rooms, suites, and a new villa are up-to-date; many include full kitchens, living rooms, and washer/dryers.


www.AnguillaTripReports.com Frangipani: (877) 593-8988 E-mail: [email protected] Website: www.frangipaniresort.com


Anguillas largest full-service resort, Viceroy is a stone behemoth with luxurious finishes and sunset views galore.166-Room Resort with garden or ocean views

Viceroy is a work of art. We stayed in an Ocean View Studio and the mattress and Sferra bedding led to dreamy sleep. The bathroom was a luxurious oasis with great shower pressure; especially loved how the shower was situated to see straight out to the expanse of ocean. A private plunge pool (aka square tub) is on the balcony.Viceroy excels in is its expansive breakfast buffet, which at press time includes hot options and is complimentary for bookings through select credit cards and travel agents.The width of the beach sand on Meads Bay varies seasonally, but loungers are plentiful (though several rows deep) and beach service is provided. Three pools are on the property, and the adult pool adjacent to the Sunset Lounge is a perfect setting for sunset views.Given TripAdvisor reviews (and our own experience), be prepared for potential lapses related to concierge and the front desk, but managers certainly aim to please.The layout of the resort requires garden and ocean view room guests to walk a good bit to the beach, but some villas are mere steps from the sand. I believe it is the only island resort with elevators, helpful if you need accessibility.

Several evenings Sunset Lounge DJs can be heard in the night air, so you may want to pack dancing shoes or ear plugs depending on your preference for evening music.During this trip, we split nights between two places. Quite a contrast as Viceroy felt like a hotel, more insulated versus traditional island accommodations. If not booked in a Viceroy beachfront villa, consider splitting time with another property for the best of both worlds.

Viceroy is undoubtedly a unique destination on the island of Anguilla. Tourists range from absolutely loving it (exhibited by numerous five-star reviews) to strong opinions about the Miami-like resort up on the perch. For a swanky stay, it is definitely one to consider on Meads Bay beach.


www.AnguillaTripReports.com Viceroy: (800) 578-0283 Website: www.viceroyanguilla.com

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Viceroy


Las EsQuinas

Anguillas best-kept secret, Las EsQuinas Boutique Bed and Breakfast is a luxurious escape unlike any other.4-Room Boutique Villa with stunning ocean views

Defying traditional descriptions, Las EsQuinas provides a truly unique experience on the island of Anguilla. With only four guest rooms, and a plethora of private nooks and crannies, guests can be as secluded or social as desired. Surroundings include exquisite furnishings and beautifully curated items from around the world.Housekeeping was immaculate during our stay, everything always clean and tidy. Bathrooms are well-equipped with natural stone, make-up mirrors, high quality soaps and shampoo. Features in each guest room include a spacious closet, desk, reading lights, and private balcony. Days begin with a bountiful (and delicious) homemade breakfast. There are plenty of cushioned spaces where you can lay outside to sun, read, nap, or simply gawk at all the beauty encircling you. Should more activity beckon, there is a closet with water equipment: float noodles, life jackets, snorkel equipment, and even water shoes if you need to borrow a pair. Being mere steps from coral reefs with bright colored fish and laying down on a deserted section of beach while listening to the waves was idyllic. When you are ready to cool off or swim laps, an on-site pool is waiting.

The rising moon is a beautiful sight to behold in the evening, along with St. Maarten and night stars in the distance.Robin is charm personified as the owner and host. She offers remarkable hospitality along with the propertys gifted caretaker, JR.As a fellow guest noted during our stay: Las EsQuinas is the kind of place you only dream of finding. It is sure to leave guests with new friends and lasting memories.

Las EsQuinas opened in 2013 as a boutique bed and breakfast property. All guest rooms have private balconies with breezes and vistas that are unparalleled. This sanctuary is sure to become a top destination in the Caribbean. It is a one of a kind experience.


www.AnguillaTripReports.com Las EsQuinas: (264) 498-3351 E-mail: [email protected] Website: www.lasesquinas.com

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Mere steps from the ocean, Covecastles combines the privacy of a private villa with on-site staff and amenities.16 Beach Houses and Villas with ocean views

Covecastles offers the seclusion of a private abode with resort-like amenities and service. At the time, we had never stayed anywhere with a building this physically close to the water, which led to truly awe-inspiring views. With only one other beach house occupied that week, it felt like a private sanctuary on the northern tip of Shoal Bay West.The attention to detail by housekeeping was extraordinary during our stay in a beach house (villas are a step up in size). Complimentary provisions and champagne were stocked in the refrigerator upon arrival. A large beachfront patio complete with hammock was an oasis. The trade winds coming in through the screens and the view out of the upstairs bedroom were magnificent. The mattress in the beach house unit was extra firm, but sheets on the bed were soft and beautiful with embroidered stitching that spoke of luxurious attention to detail.Walking the coast, listening to the waves on the back patio, and lounging in the hammock at sunset before dinner is equal to a slice of heaven on earth. Despite staying at other top-tier island properties, Covecastles remains the most serene and low key of the bunch, and has the distinction of being on our favorite beach.

Since Covecastles was built over 25 years ago, keep in mind that the beach houses have basic smaller bathrooms given the period, and the interior furnishings and exteriors may show wear. Additionally, price is steep in terms of value, but considering the uniquely memorable vistas, these details were minor. We later spent an afternoon with friends who annually stay in a Covecastles villa, and their interiors and panoramic sights were even more impressive.

Despite its tenure, Covecastles still seems a little-known secret on Shoal Bay West, yielding an unmatched combination of privacy and beautiful vistas. All houses and villas are beachfront, with spacious interiors and breathtaking views from bedrooms, living areas, and spacious patios.


www.AnguillaTripReports.com Covecastles: (800) 223-1108 Website: www.covecastles.com

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Covecastles


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Malliouhana

Malliouhana was Anguilla's first luxury resort, reborn in 2014 with a glamorous pool and stunning decor.46-Room Resort with garden and ocean views

Malliouhana reopened last year after a thorough refresh and positioned itself to take back top honors among Anguilla's luxury resorts. While we have not stayed overnight yet, our first impression in 2015 over breakfast was overwhelmingly positive, but in early 2016 the kitchen was going through a transition that was evident during a subsequent meal. A future stay with full review is postponed until tourist feedback improves. In the meantime, their skillful redesign with aesthetically pleasing art seamlessly weaves their past with the present. Their barefoot luxury moniker fits a place so harmoniously classy and comfortable.

Malliouhana is an iconic Anguilla resort perched on a cliff above Meads Bay Beach. Luxurious touches abound including a two-tiered infinity pool, ocean views galore, and beautifully refurbished surroundings.

Full Review Pending Malliouhana: (877) 733-3611 E-mail: [email protected] Web: malliouhana.aubergeresorts.com


Carimar Beach Club

Condos on Meads Bay

Carimar consists of two-bedroom units, but not all are beachfront. Units are spacious and recently refurbished with new kitchens and furniture. Air-conditioning is available in bedrooms only. A strength includes their goodwill among former guests, and a loyalty program. It is a solid option for families or couples traveling together, but beach chairs can be close together during full occupancy.Contact: (264) 497-6881E-mail: [email protected]: www.carimar.com

Blue Waters

Beach Apartments on Shoal Bay West

Blue Waters Beach Apartments include beachfront views and self-service privacy. One and two bedroom units are simple and air-conditioning is provided in the bedrooms. Daily housekeeping is included, and the kind staff gave us a fresh coconut. This is a place we enjoyed and plan to revisit in the future, especially given its proximity to our favorite lunch restaurant.Contact: (264) 497-6292E-mail: [email protected]: www.bluewatersanguilla.com

Turtle's Nest Beach Resort

Condos on Meads Bay

The phrase "don't judge a book by its cover" fits Turtle's Nest, for years we avoided its unattractive exterior. Then one trip it was the only place with last-minute availability and we were won over by the clean interiors and kind staff. Studio units lack a full-size water heater (expect cool showers) and have limited views, but this beachfront complex with one, two, and three bedroom units is a great value in summer.Contact: (264) 497-6378E-mail: [email protected]: www.turtlesnestbeachresort.com

Additional PropertiesOn a short list for future trips, CuisinArt Golf Resort on Rendezvous Bay and CeBlue Villa Resort near Crocus Bay are two more top resorts to consider. In addition, Meads Bay Beach Villas and the Villas at Sheriva are regarded positively by travelers. Shervia has the special benefit of sharing reciprocity with Cap Juluca (a golf-cart ride away), where guests sign for meals and enjoy the plush loungers on Maundays Bay.

Economical options: The following places lack features and amenities compared to the four or five-star properties previously covered. However, each offers a solid value with friendly staff and an excellent location. They are like self-service condos plus housekeeping, and a good fit for trips with a lower budget.

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After waiting in ridiculous lines on a Saturday morning to catch our return flight at the SXM airport, we took travel board members advice and switched to carry-on only during future trips. When making the airport transfer (Anguilla Air Services) with no checked luggage, you avoid the long lines and customs. The following list is a tried and true way to fit nine nights into two carry-on suitcases and one beach tote bag.

Clothes/Shoes (Male): Four linen shirts, three pairs of shorts, one pair linen pants, two white undershirts, undergarments for number of nights, two pairs of shoes, two pair socks for flights, swim-trunks and t-shirts (three sets), two ball-caps, pjs. (Wear outfit from list to airport.)

Clothes/Shoes (Female): Four outfits (i.e. black dress with cardigan, tank/sweater set with white pants, leggings and tunic, and nice top with linen pants), related jewelry, undergarments for number of nights, brimmed sun hat and visor cap, beach flip flops and one pair shoes, two pair socks for flights, three swimsuits, two to three cover-up sundresses, pjs. (Wear one outfit from list to airport.)

Toiletries: Hairdryer/hair appliances, prescription eyeglasses, toothpaste (3-ounce), two toothbrushes, floss, retainers, two deodorants, one bar soap, small can shave gel, two razors, nail file, nose strips, hair brush and comb, hair ties, q-tips, cosmetics and make-up sponge, contacts and spare pair, travel size contact case and solution (3-ounce bottle covers approximately nine nights), sunscreen (in 3.4-ounce or less sized containers or purchase on island; we use about 16 ounces over nine days), any personal items, medications (small packet hydrocortisone cream for bites), chapstick with sunscreen, and travel sizes of shampoo, hairspray, hair gel, face wash, face moisturizer, kleenex pack, airborne tablets. Tip: Use clean and empty flat contact cases to store small liquid/lotion amounts. REI also has excellent Nalgene travel bottles that do not leak in various sizes for toiletries.

Gadgets and Miscellaneous: Passport and travel documents (to include pen and paper), inflatable neck pillow/eyeshades, books and magazines, phone/nook/iPad and related chargers, earplugs for flights, headphones and spare battery, camera and charger, mini tripod for camera, sunglasses, small purse or sleeve for cards, cash and/or travelers checks, host/housekeeping gifts, and extra zip lock bags.

Plane picnic: small ice pack in tote with cheese, carrots, apple, chocolate squares, and/or mixed nuts. (This came in handy when a flight to SJU had a mechanical problem, which meant over six hours stuck on the same plane.)

C A R R Y - O N O N LY P A C K I N G L I S T

TransportationPreferred Island ConnectionsTourists from the United States usually fly into either San Juan (SJU) or St. Maarten (SXM) to access Anguilla. If flying into SXM, there will be more options to connect to the island if earlier flights are delayed. Pages 12-13 include transfer details for two airlines.If you arrive in San Juan, you will need a separate reservation on a connection carrier. Premium scheduled and charter services are offered by Tradewind Aviation (tradewindaviation.com), which includes complimentary beverages and a modern, air-conditioned cabin. Cape Air and Seaborne Airlines also fly this route. (Note: Plan ahead if booked on the last flight before Anguilla holiday observances - if delayed you could be stuck in SJU for days. This did happen to us while booked on an airline no longer in business; a Cape Air pilot saved the day by squeezing us on a last-minute flight.)

If you arrive in St. Maarten, you have a choice of getting to the island via water or a flight on Anguilla Air Services (AAS). Boat transfer choices include public ferry, various private ferries (shared shuttle), and/or private charters. We travel with carry-on luggage only, so we can avoid customs in SXM when connecting with Anguilla Air Services on a short 8-minute flight. Therefore I am not up-to-date with the water crossing options, but recommend the Anguilla Tourist Boards website for information (ivisitanguilla.com/by-sea).

Taxis and Car RentalsTaxi Rates are fixed across the island. Visit ivisitanguilla.com/taxi for more information.Renting a car is highly recommended, but on your first day consider a taxi to get your bearings. We rent from local Ronnie Bryan, who will deliver the vehicle to you personally. Contact information: 264-497-6407, 476-6407 (cell), www.bryanscarrental.com.


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Anguilla Air ServicesTo keep things simple and avoid the long lines in the SXM Airport, travel with carry-on luggage only and fly in/out of Anguilla. These steps (shown AXA to SXM) are to avoid customs/lines by using the transfer-only security station.

Start out taking the quick 8-minute Anguilla Air Services flight from AXA to SXM.

After deplaning, wait for your carry-on luggage so it doesnt end up on the carousal in baggage claim, which requires you to clear the main lines.

This quick transfer only works if you have your boarding pass already printed for your connecting flight in SXM to your final destination.

After deplaning, you will either walk from the plane to the terminal, or sometimes this brief shuttle is used.

The shuttle drops you off here; the walk may take you elsewhere to enter. Walk in, but do not follow the crowds!

Walk into the terminal (above left photo after the shuttle entrance) and follow the yellow signs related to Transferring flights - do NOT go straight with everyone else. Whichever way you are taken into the airport, follow the yellow signs that read, Transfer WITH boarding card... to avoid the main lines. (Signs are circled in blue above.) You are looking to end up on the right side of the glass in the short security lane above, right side photo. The right side photo is looking backward after going through the security line metal detector because photos are not allowed when entering. To help with your bearings, the trashcan above right is the same trash can as in the last photo on this page, but the last pic on this page is looking forward.

Go through this separate security area. (Photo is after going through the machine, looking back.)

This is the end of the security belt looking forward. Follow the yellow sign to Elevator for A/C gates, walk straight to B gates.


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Tradewind AviationThere is no expedited transfer line to avoid the chaos that can sometimes be found in the San Juan Airport (SJU), but these photos are of the process flying Tradewind Aviation, our favorite connection option from SJU to AXA.

We followed the directions Tradewind sent to their counter for check-in. After you check-in, look back the way you came across from the ticketing counters for this elevator to their waiting area.

In SJU, they have an upstairs loft reserved as a private lounge above the ticketing area for you to relax pre-flight with couches, plenty of windows, and a mini-frig with drinks too. Nice touch.

A Tradewind representative escorts passengers to the tarmac when the flight is ready to go.

Our flight was on their Pilatus, though they do have a Citation, Cessna, and Socata in their fleet; seating varies from 4 to 8 guests.

This is a quick shot of the help-yourself snack basket and beverage cooler in the back of the plane.

Arriving by plane is a great way to get your bearings and see an overview of the island, it never grows old.

Anguilla's AXA Airport. Have your passport ready. One form and their stamp is all it takes and then you are on your way.

We flew Tradewind Aviation for the first time in 2014 and had a great experience. In the spirit of full disclosure, since it was a new route for the airline I did ask for and receive a discount. The experience would have been the same had I paid the full fare, which was nearly the same as the Cape Air leg that day ($360). I like that two pilots flying up front provide added assurance in case of emergency, and it was more comfortable waiting in San Juan than other trips. Connecting via SXM is still our first choice when feasible, as you have more options if flights are delayed.


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Dining HighlightsMaps tend to show the island broken into various zones since taxi rates are set according to these geographic distinctions. Anguilla is known for its diverse dining options, and often its high prices. A few of our top favorites from previous trips are shown below. Restaurants frequently change hours and close seasonally, so always call ahead to verify availability.

Jacala

Zone 1 - West End264-498-5888

A French restaurant with beach chairs (on Meads Bay - view above) available gratis after lunch service and open for dinner. Known on travel boards for a cucumber soup, grilled watermelon salad, and steak tartar.

Closed: Monday/Tuesday

Straw Hat

Zone 2 - South Hill264-497-8300

Open for breakfast in addition to lunch and dinner. Live reggae music on Fridays. Beach chairs available for those eating at the restaurant. Dont miss the tomato pie in season, Seasoned Mahi Mahi sandwich, and the Ti Punch drink. Fries are tasty too.

DaVida Bayside Grill

Zone 6 - Valley264-498-5433

Located on Crocus Bay with some of the best beach chairs and umbrellas - gratis if eating lunch onsite. It is a favorite for Sunday afternoon live music by Omari Banks.

Closed: varies

Dolce Vita

Zone 5 - Sandy Ground264-497-8668

Owner has a longstanding island reputation running restaurants. Waterfront, the Sandy Ground location can be quite hot in June for lunch, so dinner may be preferred. Particularly enjoyed the pasta dishes.

Closed: [email protected]

Mangos

Zone 1 - West End264-497-6479

Known for fresh fish, the steamed whole snapper in a tomato broth was a dinner highlight. A travel board friend highly recommends Karens Espresso martini, they also have a tasty mocha coffee beverage.

Closed: Tuesdays

Helpful tips from the web: When making reservations, ask if the regular chef is cooking; some leave May - August and some restaurants close entirely August-October. We heard from a visitor that you need to be choosy about seafood during the low season as some chefs do not get fresh fish when business is so slow.

M U S T - D O F AV O R I T E SVeya and Meze Downstairs

Zone 5 - Sandy Ground264-498-8392

Dinner in a tree house-type setting with an expert chef, downstairs small plates. Live music select nights. Popular dishes: steak lettuce wraps, johnny cakes, pumpkin bread, shrimp cigars, and mango dessert. This is our favorite evening dining experience!

Closed: Saturday (low season) and Sunday

Trattoria Tramonto

Zone 1 - West End264-497-8819

Waterfront on Shoal Bay West, lunch includes gratis use of beach loungers and the best music playlist. It has warm service, a delicious bolognese, Leonardo cocktail, and lobster ravioli in truffle cream sauce at dinner. We go so often for lunch we call it our island-version of Cheers.

Closed: Sunday (low season) and Monday

Garveys Sunshine Shack


Waterfront on Rendezvous Bay, call ahead to make sure it is open. Garvey grills up fresh snapper, ribs, and chicken to order. Cocktails and beer available, loungers and picnic tables on-site. Garvey also caters special events and beachfront dinners by reservation.

Closed: varies

Picante

Zone 1 - West End264-498-1616

Not on the water, this Mexican food restaurant is charming for a lighter (and less expensive) night out. Hubby loves the churros for dessert and they carry several bourbons which can be hard to find away from home. Mojitos are also popular.

Closed: Tuesday

De Cuisine


Chef Denise is putting out some of the island's freshest and most creative cuisine. Keep in mind there are a small number of tables and it is a markedly different atmosphere than the lively beachfront places you may be used to visiting, but the food is the focus here and it shines.

Closed: varies


A N G U I L L A

Dining Highlights (continued)Below you will find a sampling of additional favorites, including a few nightlife destinations and grocery stores with positive online reviews. The listings shown are based on top travel experiences to date and are not meant to be exhaustive. Guests also sing praises for Barrel Stay, BBQ Roadside Stands (Ken's and B&D), Tastys, Dune Preserve (tourist dive) and Hungrys Food Truck, to name a few. New restaurants (not yet tried) include: Cafe de Paris.

Helpful tips from the web: You can check a large cooler filled with frozen food on the major airlines. However, the duty taxes have risen in the last year or two. You are allowed to bring two bottles of liquor on the island duty-free, so you many want to check out the shops in the SXM airport before your transfer.

A D D I T I O N A L F AV O R I T E S

Beverages: Tropical Flower Wholesale stocks case quantities of soft drinks, beer, and bottled water, in addition to liquor. Telephone: 264-497-4315.

Grocery Stores: The new Best Buy near Meads Bay is in a league of its own. Proctors and the former Best Buy are both well regarded on travel forums. The reported best time to go is Thursday late afternoon through Saturday, since this is after the container shipments arrive. Proctors, Albert Lake, Ashley and Sons, and Best Buy are noted as carrying some organic items. Merchants Market is a restaurant supply store in the Valley. Foods 95 grocery has a smaller selection, but is convenient to West End accommodations. Fruity Web is mentioned as a source for exotic Caribbean fruit.

Local Food/Gardens/Farms: Rainbow Farm in South Hill is supposed to be an excellent source for fresh produce. Notes from a Trip Advisor member about Island Cuisine: There is a young man, Jerome Richardson, who sets up in The Valley just up from Nurse Boy's Car Wash on Saturday mornings around 8:30am. The name of his greenhouse is Island Cuisine and its all organic. Last Saturday he had tomatoes, lettuce, spinach, bananas, eggplant, green peppers, etc. Nice young man and great stuff. Frankie's famous tomatoes are available at a roadside stand open on Saturdays mornings, and most Wednesdays. It is located past Proctors as you are leaving The Valley. Be sure to get there early.

Fresh Fish: I have been told to go to the Fishery first and The Fish Depot second, but we eat out for dinner so have not yet used this option.

Destination Dining: There are a variety of half and full day trips to outlying islands such as Prickly Pear and Scilly Cay that feature boat rides, rum punch, and grilled seafood. Guest satisfaction varies, so you may want to read up on them first and book through your hotel or accommodations contact/concierge.

G R O C E R Y S T O R E S

HiberniaZone 9 - Island Harbor

A favorite of many for both their inventive food and Mary Pats art gallery. Previous guests recommend smoked fish, Tam Ya Plah, and trio of homemade ice cream. Limited hours outside of high season, call to confirm for lunch or dinner. 264-497-4280

BlanchardsZone 1 - West End

Many tourists find Anguilla thanks to the Blanchards popular book, A Trip to the Beach and the restaurant is one of the islands most famous. Their next-door Beach Shack is like an economical "concession stand" during the day. 264-498-6100

Ferryboat InnZone 4 - Blowing Point Travel board members praise the rum punch, hamburgers, their wings night and lobster thermador. 264-497-6613

Le Bon Pain/GeraudsZone 9 - Le Bon PainZone 3 - Gerauds

Call before you visit for open/closed days of the week and to make sure certain items are available - they sell out quick! Both bakeries offer French pastries on two different sides of the island. Many people order to-go sandwiches from Geraud's for pick up before leaving the island to avoid airport food on the flight. Geraud's: 264-497-5559, Le Bon Pain: 264-497-4090

Viceroy's Sunset Lounge Zone 1 - West End

At least once stop here for drinks to watch the sun set. Beautiful spot for pictures just past the lounge and pool, near the spiral staircase. Bar service can be mediocre and slow, but what a view! Plenty of places to relax and take in the setting. 264-497-7000

Elvis Bar + PumphouseZone 5 - Sandy Ground

Two bars (separately owned, listed together for space). Closest to night life on the island, in addition to Dune Preserve. Contact for current music schedule. Elvis' Bar: 264-476-0101, Pumphouse: 264-497-5154

Pimms (Cap Juluca)Zone 1 - West End

Romantic setting, go if you can get a waterfront table on the edge. We have only eaten desserts since we found the resorts food to be quite mediocre during our visits. The view is the reason to go. 264-497-6666

CeBlue Bar Zone 6 - Valley Wood-fire pizzas up the hill from Crocus Bay. They also offer live music select evenings. 264-462-1000

SandBar Zone 5 - Sandy Ground Waterfront with small plates and cocktails. Some go on Fridays and then party in Sandy Ground at nearby bars. 264-498-0171

2016 C.M./AnguillaTripReports.com

A N G U I L L A

The Mediterranean Rooms sunrise view at Las EsQuinas, January 2014.

Issue N 8 Winter 2016

To:

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Updated versions of this guide are usually released twice a year and will be available for download at AnguillaTripReports.com.

Contact and FTC disclosurePlease contact [email protected] for inquiries regarding permission to use, reprint, or reproduce content.

FTC Disclosure: This guide written as a regular guest and researcher sharing travel experiences. I do not and have never had affiliate links or received commissions for recommending properties or establishments. Trips were paid using personal funds. On occasion reservations included discounts since I do search and book sales (and share them on the Anguilla TripAdvisor forum). Reservations have varied: we typically book rates directly with properties, but we once booked through a third-party flash sale site, a domestic travel agent another time, a local villa owner, and we once received a discount on a flight from SJU when it was a new airline route. None of these were advertisements. Over time we have made friends at places we patron, which could affect our experience and bias. Places we have not enjoyed were intentionally omitted from this guide, but exclusion should not be considered a negative review since there are many places left to try

Giving Back to Anguilla

Did this information help you plan a trip to Anguilla?

If so, my hope is that you will consider giving back to the local community who inspired the creation and sharing of this ad-free destination guide. A few notable organizations on the island to consider:

The Arijah Childrens Foundation (arijahcf.org and Facebook): a non-profit "whose mission is to serve Anguillas children with special needs"

Island Books for Kids (islandbooks.ai): a grassroots initiative founded in 2004 with the goal of filling the bookshelves of Anguillas primary schools

or another cause of your choice on the island, such as the Anguilla Animal Rescue Foundation (aarf.ai)

An Anguilla School

the best in anguilla destination guide - issue 8, winter 2016

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