the beginning of japonisme in italian fashion · the japonisme, which originated in the late 19th...

DRESSTUDY, Vol.63, 2013 Spring THE BEGINNING OF JAPONISME IN ITALIAN FASHION Laura DIMITRIO, University of Bologna The Japonisme, which originated in the late 19th century in France, reached Italy at the end of the same century. The Japanese aesthetics and art influenced the various areas of Italian culture. Its influence on fashion, which began with the kimono boom in the 1880s in France, arrived in Italy in the early 20th century. Because it was comfortable to wear, kimono was favored by women of the upper class as a housedress. At first there was no store in Italy that directly imported kimono from Japan, and ready-made kimono were imported from France. However from the beginning of the 20th century, housedresses that imitated the kimono silhouette and decorative patterns were produced in Italy. Later, Japanese patterns started to be reproduced on Western fabrics. Woven fabrics that had Japanese-style decorative patterns were produced in Italy, and dresses from such fabrics were produced. In addition, new clothing using kimono-specific linear silhouettes and flexibility was designed. In Italy, Mariano Fortuny and Monaci Galenga were leaders of such production. Especially Fortuny researched into the silhouette of Eastern clothing, including Japanese decorative patterns and techniques of stenciling, and designed clothing based on this knowledge. The Japonisme in Italian mode faded away near the end of 1920s as it did in other countries. It was not until the 1970s that Japan made an impact on the western fashion next, specifically when Kenzo Takada, Issey Miyake and Kansai Yamamoto appeared.

Upload: others

Post on 28-May-2020

12 views

Category:

Documents

1 download

Report

Download

Embed Size (px):

TRANSCRIPT

DRESSTUDY, Vol.63, 2013 Spring

THE BEGINNING OF JAPONISME IN ITALIAN FASHION

Laura DIMITRIO, University of Bologna

The Japonisme, which originated in the late 19th century in France, reached Italy at the end of the same

century. The Japanese aesthetics and art influenced the various areas of Italian culture. Its influence on

fashion, which began with the kimono boom in the 1880s in France, arrived in Italy in the early 20th

century. Because it was comfortable to wear, kimono was favored by women of the upper class as a

housedress. At first there was no store in Italy that directly imported kimono from Japan, and

ready-made kimono were imported from France. However from the beginning of the 20th century,

housedresses that imitated the kimono silhouette and decorative patterns were produced in Italy.

Later, Japanese patterns started to be reproduced on Western fabrics. Woven fabrics that had

Japanese-style decorative patterns were produced in Italy, and dresses from such fabrics were produced.

In addition, new clothing using kimono-specific linear silhouettes and flexibility was designed. In Italy,

Mariano Fortuny and Monaci Galenga were leaders of such production. Especially Fortuny researched

into the silhouette of Eastern clothing, including Japanese decorative patterns and techniques of

stenciling, and designed clothing based on this knowledge.

The Japonisme in Italian mode faded away near the end of 1920s as it did in other countries. It was not

until the 1970s that Japan made an impact on the western fashion next, specifically when Kenzo Takada,

Issey Miyake and Kansai Yamamoto appeared.

Page 2: THE BEGINNING OF JAPONISME IN ITALIAN FASHION · The Japonisme, which originated in the late 19th century in France, reached Italy at the end of the same century. The Japanese aesthetics

DRESSTUDY, Vol.63, 2013 Spring

Page 3: THE BEGINNING OF JAPONISME IN ITALIAN FASHION · The Japonisme, which originated in the late 19th century in France, reached Italy at the end of the same century. The Japanese aesthetics

DRESSTUDY, Vol.63, 2013 Spring

Page 4: THE BEGINNING OF JAPONISME IN ITALIAN FASHION · The Japonisme, which originated in the late 19th century in France, reached Italy at the end of the same century. The Japanese aesthetics

DRESSTUDY, Vol.63, 2013 Spring

Page 5: THE BEGINNING OF JAPONISME IN ITALIAN FASHION · The Japonisme, which originated in the late 19th century in France, reached Italy at the end of the same century. The Japanese aesthetics

DRESSTUDY, Vol.63, 2013 Spring

Page 6: THE BEGINNING OF JAPONISME IN ITALIAN FASHION · The Japonisme, which originated in the late 19th century in France, reached Italy at the end of the same century. The Japanese aesthetics

DRESSTUDY, Vol.63, 2013 Spring

Page 7: THE BEGINNING OF JAPONISME IN ITALIAN FASHION · The Japonisme, which originated in the late 19th century in France, reached Italy at the end of the same century. The Japanese aesthetics

DRESSTUDY, Vol.63, 2013 Spring

Page 8: THE BEGINNING OF JAPONISME IN ITALIAN FASHION · The Japonisme, which originated in the late 19th century in France, reached Italy at the end of the same century. The Japanese aesthetics

DRESSTUDY, Vol.63, 2013 Spring

Page 9: THE BEGINNING OF JAPONISME IN ITALIAN FASHION · The Japonisme, which originated in the late 19th century in France, reached Italy at the end of the same century. The Japanese aesthetics

DRESSTUDY, Vol.63, 2013 Spring

ualresearchonline.arts.ac.uk · Web viewkeeps the sound picture of the word in tune. Here the term . Japonisme. wouldn’t work. Goncourt brothers’ Journal. for 23 February 1878

Yone Noguchi’s Introduction of Noh and Kyogen to the West ...urbanscope.lit.osaka-cu.ac.jp/journal/pdf/vol009/01-hori.pdfThis was because Japonisme emphasized the erotic element,

Avec Roland Halbert, le japonisme éclaire les Mauges Halbert.pdf · le japonisme éclaire les Mauges En 1868, l’ère Meiji ouvre le Japon au monde et le pays du Soleil-Levant imprègne

Shades of Japonisme in Hungarian Set and Costume Design ... · Shades of Japonisme in Hungarian Set and Costume Design 169 lively paint:/Our attitude’s queer and quaint,/You’re

The Fur Trade The sixteenth century to late nineteenth century

THE 21st CENTURY AS WHOSE CENTURY? David Scott …“our Pacific Century has begun…as far as the United States is concerned, the 21st Century is its Pacific Century” (Gardner 1987)

The 21st Century Century Digital Learner and The 21st Century Skills

M ary Cassatt: an Intimate Japonisme · 14/11/2017 Mary Cassatt: an Intimate Japonisme | Micheline's Blog https: ... [iii] in 1874, Cassa also received guidance from painter, printmaker,

Japonisme in Print...after Snow, 1855 From the series Famous Sights of the Fifty-three Stations, also called the Vertical Tokaido Color woodblock print on paper Publisher: Tsutaya

Introduction to Bioinformatics · Introduction to Bioinformatics “If the 19th century was the century of chemistry and 20th century was the century of physic, the 21st century promises

THE 21ST CENTURY: THE CENTURY OF BIOLOGY...THE 21ST CENTURY: THE CENTURY OF BIOLOGY ON EARTH AND BEYOND Astrobiology Science Strategy for the Search for Life in the Universe January

Australian English Pronunciation into the 21st Century Century

„Közel, s Távol”honlap.eotvos.elte.hu/wp-content/uploads/2016/07/27... · 2016. 7. 11. · 3 Jann Pasler, “Japonisme and the problem of assimilation” = Arthur Groos (ed.),

Japonisme and Japanese works on paper: Cross-cultural ......introduced to Japanese prints through Edgar Degas and the two attended the exhibition of Japanese art in April 1890, held

The 20 th Century: The people’s century

Ressò de japonisme: Relíquies de col·leccions …...Ressò de japonisme: Relíquies de col·leccions privades i dels temples budistes de Nara i Kyoto IV Part Rebeca Pujals Cobo

The 20th century was the century of physics, the 21st ... · The 20th century was the century of physics, the 21st century will be ... -Polishing Most expensive step:

In the 20th century, capital. In the 21st century, the

art history scholarship in Japan and East Asia (the …publications.nichibun.ac.jp/region/d/NSH/series/nike/...Keywords: globalization, art history, orientalism, primitivism, japonisme,

The ATlAnTic cenTury ii - ITIF · The ATlAnTic cenTury ii ... competitiveness, and globalization that the twenty-first century demands. ... ENTREPRENEURShIP

Forgotten Japonisme, London, 2010.07 - NICHIBUNaurora/ppt/100709london.pdfForgotten Japonisme, London, 2010.07.09 3 伊勢専一郎Ise Sen’ichiro （1891-1948） Painting in China

The Century Mark a Century Later NYC 999

The belgian congo THE BELGIAN CONGO The Late 19 th Century The Early 20 th Century The Late 19 th Century The Early 20 th Century

The Eleventh Century BCE to the Fifth Century CE: Translation, … · 2020-02-02 · The Eleventh Century bce to the Fifth Century ce 7 the psalms celebrating God’s kingship (for

Ressò de japonisme: La selecció d’obres mestres de l ... · Ressò de japonisme: La selecció d’obres mestres de l’escola Ukiyo-e per Shimbi Shoin III Part Rebeca Pujals Cobo

17th Century 18th Century 19th Century - … Century 18th Century 19th Century The Great Awakenings 1600 1650 1600 Enlightenment Important Events Important Religious Individuals Government

0 o 0 The Making of Hokusai's Reputation in the Context of ...aurora/pdf/98hokusai.pdf0 o 0 The Making of Hokusai's Reputation in the Context of Japonisme, The Third International

THE AMERICAN CENTURY THEATER presents · The American Century Theater presents About The American Century Theater The American Century Theater was founded in 1994. We are a professional

The Century

6. Firmin-Girard et le Japonisme II. Japonisme, Collin, la peinture

CREATING CLOTH, CREATING CULTURE: THE INFLUENCE … · creating cloth, creating culture: the influence of japanese textile design on french art deco textiles, ... and japonisme through

Architecture of the 19 century and the Turn of the century

one reverse JaPonIsme anD the struCture of moDern art In …one reverse JaPonIsme anD the struCture of moDern art In JaPan It was Oscar Wilde who first observed, as early as 1891,

Japonismes / Impressionnismes - mdig.fr · Japonisme en peinture. Au-delà de l'intégration d'accessoires exotiques tels qu'ombrelles, éventails, etc., c'est désormais ... Vincent

Ressò de japonisme: Una representativa selecció d’obres de ... · Ressò de japonisme: Una representativa selecció d’obres de Kano Motonobu V Part Rebeca Pujals Cobo A més,