Amundsen-Scott South Pole Station, Antarctica

Gazing into the 60 centimeter concavemirror of the Spirex infrared tele-

scope, Fred MrozekÕs eyes burn with curiosity.Dismantling the telescope he built with hisown hands, Mrozek speaks in space-age versewith tales of mapping the Magelantic Cloudsin the galactic center and of tiny galaxies beingpulled and stretched as if by an ocean current.

MrozekÕs world may sound like sciencefiction, but with the help of the NationalScience Foundation, they have become sciencefact.

Just eight years ago modern astronomymade its debut at the South Pole. For astro-physicists like Mrozek, the experiment hasbeen an unabashed success.

ÒThis is the best place in the world fornear infrared astronomy,Ó said Mrozek. ÒTheconditions here are close to ideal and betterthan any other place on earth for this kind ofastronomy.Ó

Dr. Tony Stark, an astronomer from theSmithsonian Astrophysical Observatory inCambridge, Mass., was equally enthusiastic.ÒThis is the next place where astronomy willtake off,Ó said Stark. ÒThe observing here isjust too good.Ó

Stark should know. A denizen of the astro-nomical world, heÕs been probing the universefor a quarter century, the last decade of whichhas been focused on the South Pole.

...cont. on page 5

Published during the austral summer for the United States Antarctic Program at McMurdo Station, Antarctica.

DECEMBER 13, 1997Every Two Weeks

Three skydivers plunged to theirdeaths last Sunday while attempt-

ing what is believed to have been the firstcivilian skydiving attempt over the SouthPole.

The six-person team was organized byAdventure Network International (ANI), acompany that has been assisting privateadventurers in the Antarctic since 1988.

All six members of the team jumpedfrom a single Twin Otter aircraft from anelevation of approximately 18,000 feet.The South Pole rests at 9,500 feet above

Tragedy at SouthPole: Skydivers Fatal Jumpby Alexander Colhoun

...cont. on page 8

Fred Mrozek makes adjustments to the Spirex infrared telescope, which he built by hand. SPIREX is one ofthree telescopes at the South Pole, a location some Astronomers are calling the next place where astrophysicswill take-off.

View to the Heavens,View to the Past:South Pole Astrophysics Comes of Agestory and photos by Alexander Colhoun

INSIDERebuilding the Pole A massive

reconstruction project kicks off atSouth Pole Station.

PHI over Antarctica Bayou-basedPetroleum Helicopters, Inc. provesyou donÕt have to be cold-blooded towork on the ice.

Women In Antarctica: SelfHealth is the Key Staying healthyin the Antarctic environment beginswith basics: nutrition, balance andrest.

Stitch and Bitch Pickers are pick-ing, throwers are throwing, newfolks are learning, and occasionallysomeone is bitching.

The Traverse That DidnÕt MotherNature proves once again that shewill decide who comes and goes inAntarctica.

Perspective The tragedy at the SouthPole prompts one woman to rethinkher understanding of the quest foradventure.

Profile: Five who Survived Thecaptivations and passions of fivemen and women who spent one yearat the South Pole.

2 December 13, 1997 The Antarctic Sun

Amundsen-Scott South Pole Station, Antarctica

From the sky, the first visible sign ofmanÕs presence at the South Pole is a

silver dome glistening in the spectral Antarcticlight. Up close, it looks like a massive globe,covered to the high latitudes in snow, reveal-ing only its bald, glistening cap.

Completed in 1975 and designed to house18 men in the winter and 33 in the summer,the South Pole Station has come to symbolizeAmericaÕs presence at the South Pole, a siteprized as a scientific platform and a geopoliti-cal stabilizer.

The United States in Antarctica, a 94-pagereview of the United States Antarctic Programincludes a letter from the Department of Statewhich summarizes AmericaÕs interest in theSouth Pole. ÒUnited States presence at theSouth Pole Station demonstrates the UnitedStates commitment to assert its rights in

Antarctica, its basis of claim, and its commit-ment to conduct cutting-edge scientificresearch there.Ó

Thus regarded as the most visible symbolof AmericaÕs presence in Antarctica,Amundsen-Scott South Pole Station, so namedfor the first two explorers to reach the Pole,has come to the end of its 20-year design life.Several primary aspects of the stationÕs infra-structure, including the fuel system and thepower plant, need replacement.

In October, 1997, President Clinton signeda bill authorizing 70 million dollars for therenovation of the South Pole. In addition,Congress has authorized 25 million for theSouth Pole Safety and Environmental Upgradecurrently being carried out. Both projectsleave John Rand, the National ScienceFoundation Project Engineer for the SouthPole, with the challenge of a lifetime.

ÒI canÕt imagine a more severe construc-tion environment,Ó said Rand, a veteran withmore than 20 years of cold-weather construc-tion experience. ÒThere are many constraintsto the project. We have a very short buildingperiod each summer; we need to finish pro-jects [each summer] for them to survive thewinter; and we are at the tail end of a verylong logistics train.Ó

Long indeed. The South Pole is arguablythe worldÕs most remote outpost. Simply get-ting there is a battle. Four separate flights,

8,000 miles of ocean and ice and 10,000 feetof elevation separate the Pole from the closestAmerican city. In winter it is entirely inacces-sible.

Imagine then, transporting equipment,materials, workers and all their related needsto this isolated, windswept slab of ice. Overthe next eight years more than 1600 flightswill be made to the South Pole fromMcMurdo. Every item carried there, fromsolar panels to toilet seats, must go through aseries of hurdles fit for an Olympian, includ-ing design, procurement, pre-deploymentassembly and disassembly stateside, travel toPort Hueneme and on to McMurdo by shipand finally to the Pole by air.

It is a logistics juggernaut inextricablylinked to unpredictable weather patterns.

Despite a twelve-day delay in opening thestation this summer, caused by unseasonablycold temperatures at the South Pole (too coldfor LC-130 Hercules aircraft to attempt land-ing), this seasonÕs objectives have not beendiminished. Besides maintaining a world classscience program, the station will build a mas-sive new garage arch, will move a summercamp of ten Jamesway tents to a new location,and will raise the existing garage arch fivefeet. All of which calls for more personnelthan ever before.

Dave Fischer, Antarctic SupportAssociatesÕ South Pole Station Manager, treatsthe station like a race car, red-lining theengine for maximum performance while close-ly monitoring all functions. ÒI want to pushthe limit and see what we can do,Ó saidFischer. ÒBut I donÕt want the system tobreak.Ó

While Fischer keeps an eye on the big pic-ture, Tom Verville, a New Hampshire native,is keeping a close eye on the front end of aCaterpillar D-7 bulldozer. In the last fewweeks, Verville has helped move tons of snowto make way for a new garage arch.

ÒItÕs a mountain of snow,Ó said Verville.ÒThe depressing part is that it is a never-end-ing game. There are days when you thinkyouÕll never get it all done.Ó

ThatÕs a concern on the minds of manySouth Pole workers as they race against theweather and time. ÒWeÕre about 20 flightsbehind schedule due to the late opening,Ó saidJerry Marty, The National Science FoundationConstruction Manager. ÒBut weÕre still plan-ning to get it all done. Things are movingwell.Ó

If anyone has the experience to lead theteam, itÕs Marty, whoÕs been involved in theUnited States Antarctic Program off and on

Rebuilding the Polestory and photo by Alexander Colhoun

Carlton Walker, ASA Construction Supervisor, watches as D-7 bulldozers move thousands of pounds of snowto make room for a new 200-foot long, 64-foot wide, and 34-foot high garage arch at South Pole Station.

The Antarctic Sun, part of the UnitedStates Antarctic Program, is funded bythe National Science Foundation.Opinions and conclusions expressed in

The Sun are not necessarily those of theFoundation.

Use: Reproduction and distribution is encouraged withacknowledgement of source and author.

Editor: Alexander ColhounPublisher: Valerie Carroll, ASAContributions are welcome. Contact The Sun at

sun_news.asa@asa.org. In McMurdo, visit our office inBuilding 155 or dial 2407.

Web address: http://www.asa.org

NATIONAL SCIENCE FO

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...cont. on page 7

The Antarctic Sun December 13, 1997 3

The bayous of the south area long way from Antarctic

ice, but that hasnÕt stoppedLouisiana-based PetroleumHelicopters, Incorporated (PHI)from making its mark on thisfrozen continent.

ÒI must admit, when I heardthat some Louisiana Company gotthe Antarctic Helicopter Contract,I was a bit concerned,Ó remem-bers Robin Abbott, ASAÕs SeniorHelicopter Coordinator. ÒTheyassured me that these guys hadflown all over the world. It hasworked out well.Ó

PHI is the worldÕs largest andmost experienced helicopter oper-ator. Boasting 315 aircraft, almost2000 employees, 45 domestic and11 foreign bases, it currently fliesabout a quarter million hours ayear. Since its founding in 1949,PHI has operated in 39 countriesand flown over 8.5 million hourswith an enviable safety record.They currently provide helicopterservices to the National ScienceFoundation as a contractor similar to ASA.

Taking over a mission performed from1955 until the end of summer 1996 by the U.S.Navy, PHIÕs contract is the first of its kindawarded to a civilian helicopter company. Intheir second year of operation out ofMcMurdo, they provided transport for over 50projects, 650 scientists and workers, and all ofthe associated cargo to field camps within 150nautical miles of McMurdo. TheyÕve also pro-vided round-the-clock Search And Rescue(SAR) coverage for the USAP and AntarcticaNew Zealand.

The transition from civilian to militarywent smoothly last year despite cutting backon the number of pilots and support staff.Experience contributes a lot. The seven pilotsin McMurdo bring thousands of hours of expe-rience along with them.

Of seven PHI pilots, four are here for theirsecond year. ÒItÕs what we like to do,Ó remarksJack Hawkins, PHIÕs Program Manager. ÒWeenjoy it, but its a long time away from home,Óhe continues. ÒQuite a few PHI pilots wereinterested in flying here, but the requirementswere a stopper for many of them.Ó 1500 hourstotal helicopter time, 200 of which must be inmountainous terrain is specified in the contractthat NSF holds with PHI. ÒItÕs hard to findanyone except ex-military pilots with that kindof timeÓ said Hawkins. Six of the seven PHIpilots are ex-military.

Hawkins is also quick to credit the five

PHI mechanics that deployed in WINFLY (thefirst flight period after the winter) and per-formed all checks and maintenance on the air-craft. PHI holds an admirable fleetwide aircraftreadiness rate of 98%. PHI MaintenanceManager Everett Fouts says the key to thatsuccess is the support from the companyÕsheadquarters. PHIÕs worldwide maintenancesupport system handles much record keepingand supply problems. ÒIt lets the mechanicspend his time on what heÕs supposed to, fix-

ing helicopters,Ó said Fouts.The 5 maintenance personnelboast a combined 87 years ofPHI experience doing justthat.

Hawkins also compli-ments the scheduling work ofASA Senior HelicopterCoordinator Robin Abbott forhis companyÕs achievements.ÒItÕs a real team effort. Shematches the right load withthe right helo, coordinates acomplex series of pickupsand drop-offs and keeps thehelicopters moving and work-ing.Ó Four other ASAHelicopter Coordinators pro-vide cargo and passengerhandling duties, keeping upwith the daily details that letthe bigger plan work.

Flying in Antarctica hassimilarities with PHIÕs homestate of Louisiana. ÒFlying inthe hot, humid Gulf summer,power is as much an issue asup on top (on the plateau or

high peaks) here,Ó says Hawkins. ÒWeather isweather wherever you go. ItÕs harsh here, wedonÕt take it lightly, but as long as we adhereto minimums and use good judgment, wealways have an out.Ó

ItÕs a job the PHI team seems to enjoy.When asked why he keeps coming back, pilotRichard Dipboye echoes the sentiments ofmany of us when he smiles an answer:ÒAdventure.Ó ✹

PHI helicopters are a familiar sight above McMurdo; but without the unheralded work of a dedicatedgroup of mechanics working on this helicopter, these helos would never get off the ground.

PHI Over Antarcticastory by Terri Watson

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4 December 13, 1997 The Antarctic Sun

Women inAntarctica:Self Health is the Keyby Carol Savage, Nurse at Mac General

DidYouKnow...

A Scott sledge was used to haul food in ablizzard in New Zealand in 1939. The sledgewas used originally on an expedition to theSouth Pole and was an exhibit for 26 years ina museum in Dunedin. It was used to carryfood to a radio station isolated by the worstsnowstorm in the cityÕs history. The rescuersgot within a quarter of a mile of the stationand were met by the station staff on a hilloverlooking Dunedin.

Cows came to Antarctica with Byrd. In1933, Admiral Byrd took three Guernseysaboard the Jacob Ruppert supply ship to pro-vide fresh milk for the expedition. Theyrequired sand and straw for bedding and atwo-year supply of hay, beet pulp, grain andbrand. At Little America there was a CowBarn complete with an electric milkingmachine. One cow contacted frostbite aboardship on the return voyage and had to bedestroyed. The cattle returned after 22,000miles of sea travel with a new bull calf chris-tened ÒIcebergÓ, born just outside of theAntarctic circle.

Shackleton trained for Antarctic expedi-tions in Norway. Camping at Lake Finse in1914, the explorer tested his air-propelledsledge, motor crawler and round tents on thenearby glacier.

Nathaniel B. Palmer became a traderin China. After ÔdiscoveringÕ Antarctica, theyoung whaling Captain went on to become amerchant, designer and owner of some of thegreatest clipper ships involved in the Chinatrade.

Scott's wife sculpted statues of theexplorer. One is in Christchurch, NewZealand and the other is in England atWaterloo Place. She also produced a landmarkbronze statue of E.A. Wilson, the Artist andZoologist who died with Scott on the GreatIce Barrier in March, 1912. WilsonÕs monu-ment stands in on the Promenade inCheltenham, his birthplace.

Kennels built by Scott for his sled dogscan still be visited in Lyttelton, New Zealand.Quail Island, near the head of LytteltonHarbor, was used as a quarantine station fordogs and ponies by both Scott and Shakletonprior to departure to Antarctica.

by Brenda Joyce

Without cooking for ourselves, dri-ving in commuter traffic or even

cleaning our own bathrooms, Antarctica canstill be a harsh place to live. Many womenare aware of stress and its effect on our bod-ies while living in the United States, but thefactors affecting stress levels and how to dealwith stress are somewhat different inAntarctica.

Environmental, emotional, and physicalstress impact individual health.Acknowledging what is stressful will allowyou to make changes toward optimum health.Some stress is unique to Antarctica, includingworking in extreme temperatures, living withnoise of heavy equipment and machinery, andlack of personal space. Work related pressuresare compounded by fatigue and potential forinjury.

Spiritual and emotional stress mayinvolve taxed interpersonal relationships, iso-lation and loneliness. In addition, high alco-

hol intake can affect choices we make andalso depress our immune system.

The key then, is working to prevent sick-ness before it happens.

Impact to body, mind and spirit is multi-factorial, and strongly influenced by ournutritional choices. For example,Premenstrual Syndrome symptoms anddepression can be affected by our intake ofcarbohydrates, protein, and fat. Nutrition isjust one factor that helps regulate our health.Imbalance of work, play and rest can createsusceptibility to cold viruses, muscle tensionand sometimes leads to accidents.

The galley offers a selection of nutrientseach of which need to be eaten in balancedamounts. While fresh food isnÕt always avail-able, avoid substitutions with all too easy-to-find sweets.

The absorption of the foods you eat isinfluenced by exercise, another important

Between her martial arts classes and days spent skiing, Erika Kassop, a McMurdo resident, keeps busy andhealthy while living in McMurdo.

...cont. on page 9

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The Antarctic Sun December 13, 1997 5

ÒEight years ago we set up our observato-ry on the snow, nailed a floor down, set up ourtelescopes beside a preway heater and tookmeasurements,Ó said Stark. Conditions havechanged dramatically.

Today the South Pole boasts a growingastronomical observation platform, enhancedthis season with the completion of the Vipertelescope observatory, rounding out a team ofthree scopes situated at the Pole. ViperÕs quar-ters, elevated on stilts to limit snow build-up,are the envy of many a South Pole worker.With its carpeted floors, central heating andskylight windows, the new facility is as hand-some as it is cutting edge.

ViperÕs presence at South Pole is an indi-cation of things to come as astronomersworldwide begin to appreciate the potential forground-breaking research in Antarctica. ÒAdecade ago our goal was simply to prove itwas possible to operate a telescope in the win-ter,Ó said Stark. ÒWeÕve succeeded unequivo-cally.Ó

What makes the South Pole so special forastronomical research is as starkly obvious asthe Antarctic winter: it is cold, it is dark and itis isolated.

In other words, the atmosphere above theSouth Pole is nearly transparent, allowing asignificantly greater amount of light wavesthrough to earth than most other geographiclocations. That doesnÕt mean Stark and his fel-low researchers will be getting a better tan.

The vast majority of this light is not visi-ble. Contrary to popular opinion, astronomydoes not always entail a bearded scientistlooking through a small viewfinder and pan-ning the galaxy.

In reality, astronomical research is carriedout across the electromagnetic spectrum, fromshorter wavelengths just above visible light, tolonger wavelengths, such as millimeter light,which is similar to a radio wave.

The point is simply that differentresearchers often look at the same phenome-non, but on different wavelengths, thereforebuilding a greater understanding of the com-plete picture. At the South Pole, the Spirextelescope searches a band of light in the nearinfrared zone while Viper and the Astro tele-scope search the submillimeter and millimeterranges respectively.

According to Stark, the only rival to theSouth Pole observatory is located atop 14,000-foot Mauna Kea in Hawaii, and even there,observations can be made only ten percent ofthe time due to moisture in the air.

That leaves space missions as the only

alternative, one thatMrozek dispatches withcommon sense budget talk.ÒWorking here costs one-tenth of one-percent of asatellite mission,Ó saidMrozek. ÒYou just canÕtbeat that.Ó Other drawbacksto space-born technologyare time and size.

Putting a telescope intospace can take from 10-15years, during which timethe technology is ÔfrozenÕin the launch vehicle due topayload constraints. At theSouth Pole, key telescopeelements can be replaced orupgraded with the latesttechnology over the sum-mer season. In addition,telescope size is severelylimited on space missions,while Antarctic instrumentshave few size constraints.

By his own admission,Mrozek considers theSpirex telescope, whichfills a canvas covered struc-ture the size of a typicalAmerican living room,modest in size. WhatÕsremarkable about the instru-ment, however, is what itcan see. ÒDown here thesky is so much darker, it glows so much morefaintly, even a pea-shooter like this can dohigh quality astronomical research.Ó

Pea shooter or not, Spirex has drawn a tal-ented team of researchers to the desert-likePole.

With nothing but a tweed jacket and a t-shirt reading ÔData WranglersÕ between himand 30 below (Celsius) temperatures, Dr.Nigel Sharp, an astronomer from the NationalOptical Astronomy Observatory in Tuscon,Arizona, heads outside to speak with his asso-ciate, Mrozek, as he dismantles Spirex.

ÒWe should be able to see more stars thanever before,Ó explained Sharp as he made hisway up to the roof that Spirex calls home.ÒBut what weÕre really trying to understandare the details of star formation.Ó

Astrophysical research, while new to theSouth Pole, has an ancient tradition. Most ofthe basic structures of the universe are under-stood, leading astronomers into more andmore specialized fields within their own disci-pline. ÒThe field is so subdivided,Ó saidMrozek. ÒThere are nearly as many objects ofinterest as there are astronomers to study

them. This is a sign of an advanced field ofstudy.Ó

All of which has scientists like Stark,Mrozek and Sharp hankering for a biggerpiece of glass. Ten meters in diameter, the mir-ror of a world class observatory would almostcertainly reveal secrets to the origins of theuniverse.

For the uninitiated, itÕs not an easy con-cept to comprehend, but the essence is this:astronomers interested in the creation anddynamics of the universe have to look out intospace as far as they can. The further out theylook, the further back in time they are view-ing. Give or take a billion years, Stark dreamsof exploring the first seven billion years afterthe Big Bang, which occurred 15 billion yearsago.

For that heÕll need a world class telescope,which he hopes is no longer a pipe dream.

ÒCARAÕs (Center for AstrophysicalResearch in Antarctica) mission was todemonstrate the quality of this site and the fea-sibility of working here,Ó said Stark. ÒWeÕve

Astrophysics ...cont. from page 1

Matt Newcomb, a recent computer science and math graduate of CarnegieMellon University, stands inside the new Viper telescope observatory plat-form.

...cont. on page 7

6 December 13, 1997 The Antarctic Sun

McMurdo Station by Stan Wisneski

The move from the Ice Runway toWilliams Field was completed on 6 DecemberÐa week earlier than scheduled due to the deteri-orating conditions of the transition leading to thesea ice. Moving the buildings took approximate-ly 12 hours to complete.

Preparations are under way for the arrivalof the R/V Nathaniel B. Palmer (NBP) on orabout 16 December. The NBP will nose into theice edge as close to McMurdo as possible. Allpersonnel and cargo will be transferred by heli-copter.

South Pole Station by David Fischer

Lots of volunteers helped prepare dinnerand desserts all week as South Pole celebrated atraditional Thanksgiving with a traditional din-ner, including an elite corps of wineservers whopoured wine purchased by the stationÕs grantees.

South Pole is reaching significant mile-stones in a busy season. ASA completed the con-trol and pump rooms for VIPER, and turned thebuildings over to the science group during theweek. Despite the late station opening, these pro-jects have been completed ahead of schedule. Inaddition the VIPER communications and com-puter installation is complete.

PICO continues setting up camp to drillthree more holes for the AMANDA project;CARAÕs numerous projects are underway; andS-208Õs effort to analyze halos and ice crystals isin full-swing.

Snowclearing of the existing garage archand building a pad for the new garage arch iscomplete. Core samples of the new garage archarea indicated the snow was not dense or uni-form enough to begin setting the footers for thenew arch, so a good deal more work was neededto build this pad.

Palmer Station by Ron Nugent

December will be a busy month for the sta-tion. We expect visits from four ships this month:one resupply ship and three cruise ships. We arealso preparing for the early January arrival of theR/V Laurence M. Gould (LMG). The stationwill be receiving cargo from the Gould and someof the grantees now working on station willboard the ship and continue their research on theLong Term Ecological Research cruise.

The weather in the past few weeks has been

outstanding. This has been very favorable to theresearch community who depend on goodweather for boating operations. Along with thegood weather there are hoards of new animals inthe area. Our snow cover is melting off very fastnow exposing a completely different landscapeof rock and soil.

R/V Nathaniel B. Palmerby Janet Barnes and Marian Moyher

The NBP research vessel has been busytowing the Sea Soar in a grid pattern with hopesof examining patterns of the phytoplanktonbloom conditions using this type of mesoscalesurvey.

Several people have been lucky enough tosee Orcas recently. Very little is known about theKiller whales in the Antarctic. They, along withthe Leopard Seal, are the top predators. They arefound all around the continent and tend to followtheir prey. Killer whales usually live in groups orpods numbering from 5 -20. Sometimes thesepods combine into groups of 100 or more. Thepods exhibit a high degree of group cooperationin activities such as hunting. Squid, fish, seals,penguins, birds, and even other whales make uptheir diet.

Last month, during a cruise of the U.S.Joint Global Ocean Flux Study (JGOFS), theNBP received images from a newly operationalsatellite called Sea-viewing Wide Field-of-viewSensor (SeaWiFS). From slight changes in theocean's color as noted in the satellite images,researchers can locate concentrations and typesof marine phytoplankton (microscope plants) liv-ing in the water column.

When a promising site was located recently,the Chief Scientist on the cruise, Walker Smith,adjusted the cruise schedule to sample theseareas. Sampling is carried out to understand theprocesses and conditions that allow the phyto-plankton to thrive. The data will also be invalu-able in assisting scientists to interpret futuresatellite images. SeaWiFS is part of NASA'sMission to Planet Earth, and you can visit theirweb site to see some of the current images. Theaddress is: http://seawifs.gsfc.nasa.gov/SEAW-IFS.html.

R/V Laurence M. Gouldby David McWilliams and Dawn Scarborro

The LMG went through it's science sea tri-als on December 5th and 6th. A total of 36 hourswas spent at sea testing all the science equipmentaboard the vessel. The majority of the ship's sci-ence systems were functional and all the peoplein Marine Science were quite pleased with howthe science suite functioned. There are still out-standing contract issues which are delaying the

departure of the LMG to Punta Arenas. An earlyDecember departure is anticipated.

Following successful sea trials the LMGwill transit southbound to replace the ABEL-J.The ABEL-J is the recently chartered vessel thatis transporting scientists, staff, and cargobetween Punta Arenas, Chile, and Palmer Stationuntil the arrival of the LMG. To date, the ABEL-J has successfully transited to Palmer Station andhas sailed into COPA and Cape Shirreff, thusallowing camp openings.

Christchurch, NZ by Brian Stone

Dr. Polly Penhale, the Program Managerfor Polar Biology and Medicine and the sec-ond of the four National Science Foundationpersonnel acting as NSF Representative, NewZealand, will be returning to Washington,D.C. shortly before Christmas. Christchurchoperations will temporarily be without an act-ing NSF Rep. NZ during the holidays untilBill Bryant from the NSF Division ofContracts, Policy and Oversight assumes therole just after the New Year.

The National Guard Bureau hasannounced the selection of five additionalpersonnel for Air National Guard Detachment13, Christchurch, New Zealand, leaving onlythe Detachment Commander position yet tobe named. These additional personnel will bejoining LtCol Richard Saburro, the ViceCommander/Operations Officer inChristchurch during the first quarter of 1998.The selectees are: Capt. Dorine LeBlanc,Executive Officer; SMSgt Art Bleich, AircraftMaintenance Superintendent; MSgt RobertLaFaye, Logistics Plans NCO; MSgt PaulMcMillan, Logistics Supply Superintendent,and SSgt Carol Gehm, Information Manager.The seven personnel from Detachment 13 willsupport OPERATION DEEP FREEZE flightoperations in Christchurch following thedeparture of the US Navy in March 1998.

USCGC Polar Starby LCDR Steve Wheeler

A handful of researchers will ride theUSCGC POLAR STAR down from Hobart tostudy the population, size and colony distributionof Adelie penguins and the polarization and dis-tribution of sunlight. And then, with helicopters,they will work on Beaufort Island, FranklinIsland, Cape Irizar and Cape Roberts. ThePOLAR STAR is expected to arrive in the RossSea to start 1997-98 Antarctic operations, some-time around the day after Christmas and beginwork on the ice channel to Hut Point.

fromAntarcticstationsandships

... cont. on page 7

The Antarctic Sun December 13, 1997 7

since 1969. ÒI was part of the team that finished this station,Ósaid Marty, tapping his desk. ÒAnd I hope to be here whenthe new one is finished.Ó

The South Pole Modernization Program, which became areality with ClintonÕs signature last month, will see the con-struction of a space age facility, complete with berthing for110 people (men and women this time), science facilities, agreenhouse, a medical center and an arts and crafts room aswell as other facilities.

For now, however, Marty, Rand, Fischer and the SouthPole summer staff have more pressing concerns, like findingbeds for 190 people as construction and science move for-ward. With 41 years of South Pole experience to draw upon,the hearty few that accept the challenges of living and work-ing at the South Pole are sure to succeed. ✹

Rebuilding the Pole ...cont. from page 2

Due for completion in fiscal year 2005, the new South Pole Station facility has a space agedesign and will be elevated off the ground to minimize snow build-up.

Pick daisies every day andkeep Antarctica clean

ASA, Denver by Jim Chambers

Much of the emphasis of the DenverAntarctic support staff remains centered onexpediting procurements for the annualresupply ship. Loading of the vessel at PortHueneme remains on schedule to start on 4January 98 with a scheduled sailing date of 9January 98. The R/V LAURENCE MGOULD sea trials continue with an anticipat-ed departure date from Louisiana toAntarctica of 8 December 97.

ASA received the first cycle of fundingfor the South Pole Station Modernization(SPSM) project. The SPSM project followsimmediately on the heals of the new powerplant, garage, and upgraded fuel storage pro-jects.

National Science Foundationby Guy Guthridge

The 43 Antarctic Treaty nations contain66 percent of the world's population, and theygenerate 79 percent of its economic output, anew NSF tally showed. Of the 43, the 26consultative ones--those with a vote atAntarctic Treaty meetings--represent 61 per-cent of the world's population and 72 percentof its economy. Ten of the 26 are smaller thanthe average nation, and six of the 26 earn lessper capita than the world average. These data,updated from time to time, establish againthat it's not just the world's privileged fewthat participate in Antarctic affairs. A countryneedn't be big and rich to meet the treaty's"substantial scientific activity" threshold forconsultative (voting) membership. ✹

Updates ...cont. from page 6

done that and more. This is a turning point inAntarctic Astronomy.Ó

Clearly turning points have their price tag.A ten meter telescope and its associated costswould run close to 23 million dollars. ÒWeÕrewilling to call it the Bill Gates telescope,Ó saidStark with a chuckle. ÒItÕs a bargain at twicethe price.Ó

Skeptics may question this allocation ofresources, but Stark is well-armed with a replyto those disinclined to support science.ÒResearch pushed the envelope of technology,Ósaid Stark. ÒWork that astronomical researcherswere doing 25 years ago led to the develop-ment of the World Wide Web and GPS (Global

Positioning Systems),Ó explained Stark. ÒNowyou can buy a $200 satellite dish for yourhome.Ó

Clearly however, South Pole astrophysicalresearch is driven by a more innate desire forknowledge. ÒIt is the question of the origin ofus,Ó said Dr. Jim Jackson, assistant director ofCARA. ÒWhere do we come from? It is theultimate history book. What is in our bodieswas once in the stars.Ó

Describing the galaxies as a work of artÐan organic and interconnected worldÐ Jacksonsounds more like a poet than a scientist, but hisvision and desire to understand the universe isone that may eventually turn more of our sci-ence fiction dreams into science facts. ✹

Astrophysics ...cont. from page 5

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houn

sea level, putting the parachutists nearly eightthousand feet above the snow-packed surface.

The deceased were found within a mile of thestation, two parachutes never having deployedand a reserve chute on a third person only partial-ly opened. The South Pole doctor along withmembers of the trauma team were able to locatethe bodies after a brief search.

Three other skydivers, including twoNorwegians and an American landed safely.

Circumstances leading to the accident are stillunclear. ÒThe three guys were very experienced,with many hundreds of jumps each, skydivedaround the world and at the North PoleÓ saidMichael McDowell of Adventure Network, in anAssociated Press interview.

Many South Pole workers were distraught bythe accident, having watched the tragedy unfoldfrom outside the tent structures they call homethrough the Austral summer.

ÒI think more than anything there is a senseof disbelief at what happened,Ó said one AntarcticSupport Associates (ASA) employee. ÒAdventurenetwork's Twin Otter landed at around seven andthey were in the air preparing to jump by aroundnine. By ten the accident had happened, and bytwo they were gone. Just like a big black clouddrifted over the station.Ó

Adventure Network flew the bodies and sur-vivors back to their base camp at Patriot Hills,located on the side of Antarctica closest to SouthAmerica.

Remorse among South Pole staff was height-ened by the knowledge that one of their own,Steve Mulholland, who worked with ASA forthree seasons as a carpenter, had died in the acci-dent.

ÒSteve is one of those people that will beremembered here in our shop for many yearsbecause of who he was, he was definitely one ofa kind,Ó said Jay Burnside, Science ConstructionCoordinator for ASA. Ò If that isn't enough, PaulaAdkins, out at Lake Hoare named the freezerafter Steve a few years ago. The freezer is calledthe Mulholland and I suspect that name will carryon as a prelude to one of those great Antarcticstories.Ó

The story of this tragedy is sure to be carriedfor many years by staff at the South Pole this sea-son, particularly as they work through the rest ofthis summer season.

No nation has ownership of the South Pole orany location in Antarctica, thus private expedi-tions of this kind are entirely legal; however, theNational Science Foundation and ASA offer noassistance to these groups.

With no other organizations to turn to intimes of crisis, the United States AntarcticProgram has, over the years, become concernedabout of private expeditions, the rescue of whomcuts into valuable resources, including flight timeand risk to rescuers themselves.

ÒFrom the point of view of the Antarctic pro-gram, [private expeditions] have the potential tohugely impact what we do,Ó said Steve Dunbar, asearch and rescue expert. Dunbar sighted thepotential drain on resources (already being usedat maximum capacity) that rescues often involve.

Dunbar speculates that adventuring inAntarctica will only continue to grow in the yearsto come, an idea he perceives as a double edgedsword. ÒThe more people who get to see it, themore this place will be protected,Ó said Dunbar.ÒBut the more they come, the higher the chanceof us getting involved.Ó ✹

SkyDivers ...cont. from page 1

by Mark Perry

Twenty buildings were hauled six milesfrom the ice runway to Williams

(ÒWillyÓ) Field on Saturday, December 6th. Theice runway closed about a week earlier thanusual this year due to warmer temperaturesmaking the ice weaker and unsafe to hold theweight of the planes.

The operation was completed in one day.According to Don Ferris, ASA Senior AreaManager, many departments throughoutMcMurdo were responsible in helping with themove, including Fleet Operations, the VehicleMaintenance facility, Fuels, the power plant,and Information Systems. ÒIts a daisy chainaffect throughout the communityÓ NSFA DeputyCommander Chuck Young said.

Three runways are used throughout theyear. The ice runway operates from approxi-mately the first week of October to around themiddle of December. Willy field is used fromDecember until the station closes at the end ofFebruary, and Pegasus is used in January,February and August.

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was a friend andco-worker to many

participantsin the United

States AntarcticProgram.

He will be missedand remembered.

SteveMulholland

The Antarctic Sun December 13, 1997 9

facet in maintaining your overall health.Exercise provides chemicals to the brain thatincrease feelings of well being. In McMurdo,hiking or skiing the Castle Rock loop is anexcellent way to get outside and revitalizeyour spirit.

While exercise is vital to good heath,other daily choices can have a strong impactas well. One suggestion is taking vitaminsupplements. Alcohol, caffeine and birth con-trol pills each increase your need for B vita-mins while cuts and sores may heal fasterwith additional vitamin C supplement.

Balancing all these ideas with adequatesleep will round out your health on the ice.Sleep will come easier if you darken yourroom early, an hour or more before you planto end the day. Finally, exercise earlier in theevening rather than right before bed, and cutdown on alcohol and caffeine consumption,all of which can keep you awake.

Illness is a reminder to pay attention toour bodies and create balance in our lives. Ifyou do get sick, medications may relieve

symptoms but women can add to the ground-work for health with adequate sleep, diet,exercise and attention to spirit. To a greatextent we have control over our bodyÕshealth.

These suggestions are a place to start todo your part. Sometimes women become illeven with their best efforts to take care ofthemselves. Remember to nurture yourselfwith support, not criticism. Take small stepstoward change.

The staff at Mac General is available forprevention of illness as well as treatment. Ifyou are having difficulty sleeping, feelings ofdepression, fatigue, experience an assault, orhave questions about menstrual, sexual, orbreast health, call or come by the clinic.

Colds are best treated as you would athome in the states. If you have unusualsymptoms or concerns about the duration ofyour cold virus, feel welcome to come by theclinic or give us a call.

Hours at Mac General: M-F 0800-1100,12:30-3:00, and 6:00-8:00. Telephone: 2551.

✹

self health ...cont. from page 4

We drown in informationwhile thirsting for

knowledge.

ÐHugh Arscott

-- EDITORIALS -- Here at the Antarctic Sun we strive for descrip-

tive writing. Whether it be the blonde hair of awoman (Antarctic Sun, Nov. 29, 1997 Pg.7,Paragraph 4); strands of gray hair running over amans chin (Antarctic Sun Nov.1, 1997, Pg.14,Paragraph 9); or slender ice cores drilled frombeneath the ocean (Antarctic Sun Oct.18, 1997,Pg.5, Paragraph 11); we feel powerful writing cap-tures the imagination. We welcome your thoughtsat the Antarctic Sun.

[W]hen I was reading the November 29,1997 issue there were two references thatgave me pause. I wish to call your attentionto the Nematode article by AlexanderColhoun, page 1, paragraph 1: Ò...AmyTreonis, a blonde-haired graduate student,...Ó Also, the Happy Camper article byAlexander Colhoun, page 7, paragraph 4,Ò...said Leah Thompson, a red-haired 22year-old world traveler with an alluringsmile.Ó

Now, I wouldn't describe myself as anunreasonable person, but to me these sort ofreferences to women in Alexander's articlesseem gratuitous at best and definitely ontheir way to being condescending or evensexist. Things that made these statementsstand out in my mind were that there wasmore than one occurrence and that none ofthe men in these articles were described insuch physical terms.

Katy QuinnCambridge, MA

At eleven p.m. last Tuesday night,John Hunt found himself sitting

quietly in the South Pole library. He was-nÕt there to conduct research. True toform, AntarcticaÕs unpredictable weatherplayed its hand, delaying HuntÕs return toMcMurdo for several hours.

No one, not even the acting directorof the Office Of Polar Programs (OPP),escapes Mother NatureÕs grasp inAntarctica.

It was a whirlwind tour for Hunt. Onthe ice for five days, he ranged as far asthe South Pole and as close as theMcMurdo Galley to get a first hand feel-ing for the Antarctic experience.

ÒThe National Science FoundationAntarctic Program is extremely wellrun,Ó said Hunt. ÒAll the individuals Icame into contact with knew their jobswell and did them well.Ó

Though this was HuntÕs first visit toAntarctica, he is no stranger to science,

having served as an executive officer forthe Mathematical and Physical Sciencesdivision of the National ScienceFoundation. An Arkansas native with amild mannered voice and a wide, disarm-ing grin, HuntÕs career has focused on thecomplex world of chemistry.

Speaking as a researcher himself,Hunt stressed how fortunate scientistsworking at American facilities inAntarctica are. ÒIt seems to me that sci-entists working here really get a lot ofhelp,Ó said Hunt. ÒI have never seen anoperation supporting science that did itbetter.Ó

Joining Hunt on his tour were threemembers of the National Science Board:Dr. Diana S. Natalicio, Dr. Vera C. Rubinand Dr. Warren M. Washington. Membersof the board are Presidential appointeeswho serve in an oversight role forNational Science Foundation operations.

✹

Hunting For Science:Office Of Polar Programs DirectorVisits the Continent

story and photo by Alexander Colhoun

MCMURDO SOUNDINGS:A locally produced newsmagazine, covering scienceand science support will re-airMonday, December 15th at 6:30.

10 December 13, 1997 The Antarctic Sun

Pickers are picking, throwers are throw-ing, new folks are learning, and occa-

sionally someone is bitching. These Wednesday evening gatherings,

know as Stitch And Bitch, are an opportunityfor folks to work on that special knitting pro-ject and spend a pleasant evening chattingwith friendly people.

Two methods of knitting, picking andthrowing, are a typical topic of discussion.Picking is the European way, and tends to bemore difficult to learn, while the Americanmethod of throwing is easier.

You donÕt have to be a knitter to partici-pate, just show up. Someone will get youstarted. That is exactly what Joel Frank, acargo handler at McMurdo Station, did, figur-ing it was time to learn. ÒEverybody in cargoon the night shift knows how to knit,Ó Franksaid.

Frank is learning the European method of

picking, a methodthat tends to be moredifficult. ÒIt hurtÕs,ÓFrank exclaimed.ÒMy arms hurt; myfingers hurt; this isnot very relaxing.Ó Astandard ÒbitchÓ bynew knitters.

Another subjectof conversation isknitting lore. Onerumor says neverknit a sweater for aman before he isyours, because hewill dump you.

Knitting hasbeen a part of KellyMontgomeryÕs lifefor the last seven years. She learned to knit asan exchange student in Sweden, includinglearning to read patterns in Swedish. ÒWhen Igot home and bought a pattern in English, Ihad no idea what it said,Ó she said, laughing.

In 1991, living in the north woods of Ely,Minnesota, where winters were harsh, DawnNeedham, was an environmental educationteacher by day, and a student of knitting bynight. Now a knitting teacher, Dawn shares

her talents with anyone who wants to learn. A new knitter, Anna Meade, a Hazardous

Waste worker, learned to knit as a thrower,despite her motherÕs efforts to teach her topick, although she didnÕt realize that she was athrower. ÒI just thought I learned it wronguntil I came here,Ó she said.

Working on the first of a pair of socks,Terri McLain wasnÕt sure who would be therecipient of the special gift. ÒItÕs kind of like

Cinderella,Ó she explained. ÒYouhave to go around and find outwhose foot itÕs going to fit.Ó

Not everyone who shows upknits. Carolyn Doe, a courier, spinsthread and yarn while she visitswith friends. ÒBecause I like to knit,it sort of made sense to make myown yarn,Ó she said.

No one is quite sure when orhow Stitch and Bitch started. Itseems to have evolved from a groupof people who got together someyears ago and began sharing pat-terns, ideas and techniques, and itgrew from there.

In 1987, when women lived inthree jameways connected with acommon area, McMurdoÕs KnittingCircle, as it was called then, wasgoing strong. This was a time wheneveryone had a once-a-week liquorration, and women would gettogether, drink wine, stitch andbitch. It hasnÕt changed much. ✹

Stitch& Bitch

story and photo by Chief Jacqueline Kiel

Dawn Needham gives Joel Frank a few pointers as he learns to knit. ÒIt hurtÕs,ÓFrank exclaimed. ÒMy arms hurt; my fingers hurt; this is not very relaxing.Ó

ÒIt was beach-eriffic baby,Ó said Brian Sundberg of the annual McMurdo beach party. Despite temperatures well belowzero, many partyers dressed for the occasion, clad in bikini tops and speedo swimsuits.

phot

o by

Ale

xand

er C

olho

un

The Antarctic Sun December 13, 1997 11

Your questions and comments are welcome here.WeÕll publish responses in each issue. Contact us atSun_News.asa@asa.org.

YourTurnÐ

Talk about a government waste. Forget about$500 toilet seats. Why do we buy new equip-ment in the galley, floor dryers for example,when we work on the worldÕs driest continent?And what about the new juice dispensers Ðtheold ones still work fine!

The simple answer to your question onfloor dryers and new juice machines is person-nel safety. The floors in Building 155 must beswept and mopped several times a day due tothe great amount of traffic they receive. Sincewe canÕt close down hallways for any length oftime, the dryers are used to dry the floors asrapidly as possible to minimize the possibilityof people slipping on them while they are wet.

The safety of the food service staff is myfirst priority. The new Vitality Juice machineswere purchased and installed to increase safetyamong the dining facility staff. They are thelatest state-of-the-art juice dispensers. Theyrequire no open mixing, a health concern, ofjuice concentrate and water. A simple plug-inthree-liter cartridge of juice concentrate and anempty spigot is back in business.

The old machines, although still opera-tional, require a person to mix the juice in afive-gallon milk can. These milk cans areheavy when full approximately 35/40 lbs.Many of our dining room staff are not used tolifting heavy loads. Handling the old juice canshas caused back injuries to our staff when lift-ing them to pour the contents into the juicemachines not to mention the mess made to thedining room floor and carpeting when theydrop one.

The old milk cans also take up too muchroom in the chill box. This has always been aproblem for the kitchen staff to work around.Another side benefit of the the three-liter car-tridges is consistency of product. Unlike theold method of free mixing concentrate andwater, if handled correctly, you will get thesame good tasting product every time.

-thanks to Warren Hoy

NavyÕs Top Dogby Chief Jacqueline Kiel

He stands 24 inches tall, weighs 65pounds, is covered head to tail, with

black hair and loves bananas. And, he's thetop dog of Naval Antarctic Support Unit(NASU).

Sam, a nine year-old black labradorretriever and New Zealand native, is the drugdog for NASU in Christchurch, NewZealand. He has been with the program sincehe was two years old. ÒEverybody who goesdown to Antarctica goes through Sam andme,Ó said Master At Arms Second ClassRichard Eckles, SamÕs current handler. ÒHesearches passengers luggage, then cargo onthe outgoing aircraft and finally the aircraftitself.Ó

When not working, he is often in train-ing. Eckles and Sam train with New ZealandPolice and Customs, because they have thenecessary drug training aids. ÒWe donÕtmaintain the drugs here, New Zealand does-nÕt allow it,Ó Eckles said.

Sam was trained as an aggressiveresponse dog, thus when he detects one ofthe four drugs heÕs been trained to respondto, he bites, scratches and barks at the con-tainer holding the drugs.

Aggressive response dogs are differentfrom passive response dogs in that passivedogs simply sit when they detect drugs,explosives, or whatever they are trained to

detect. Additionally, passive dogs are trainedusing food as a reward.

As an aggressive response dog, Sam wastrained using a rubber tube toy. ÒWe play tug-of-war with it and give him lots of praise,ÓEckles said. ÒHe comes back for more. Wemake the job a game.Ó

Sam is so well trained, when Ecklesbrings out the training harness, Sam raiseshis left paw to easily slip into it. This trickimpresses both children and adults alikewhen Eckles and Sam do demonstrations fortour groups.

During the time Eckles has worked withSam, the handler has become very fond ofthe dog. ÒHeÕs one of the best dogs IÕve everworked,Ó he said. ÒThe NavyÕs losing a greatdog,Ó he added, referring to the dogÕs retire-ment when NASU disestablishes in March.

A very gentle dog, Sam belies his docili-ty if you happen by the car he rides in. HeÕllbark at passersby. ÒHeÕll take ten years offyour life because of this barking,Ó Ecklessaid, smiling. ÒThatÕs his space.Ó

To prove how gentle Sam really is,Eckles describes SamÕs banana eating behav-ior. Eckles peels a bit of the banana at a time,and each time Sam will gently take bite. Ittakes Sam only three chomps to finish histreat, but they are very careful bites. ÒThatway I keep all my fingers,Ó Eckles said,laughing.

SamÕs time with the Navy is windingdown, but donÕt fret, heÕll stay in NewZealand where heÕll be quite happy. ÒWehave a home lined up for him,Ó Eckles said.ÒHeÕs going to be spoiled rotten.Ó ✹

MILITARY NEWS:

by Brenda Joyce

Sam, a nine-year old black labrador retriever and New Zealand native, sniffs luggage headedfor Antarctica in search of drugs.

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12 December 13, 1997 The Antarctic Sun

Parallel ribbons of clouds are a fairly reg-ular occurrence in the skies over

Antarctica. These clouds are known by severalnames. Two of the most common are ÒwaveÓand Òlenticular.Ó The first term relates to howthe clouds are formed. The second describes thecharacteristic lens shape of the cloudsÕ cross-section.

A number of ingredients, in perfect propor-tion, have to come together in the recipe forwave clouds. Stable air flow, in which parcelsof air tend to remain at a fixed level as theymove along, is a must. Now add a dash of mois-ture. Too much moisture yields a solid layer ofclouds. Too little generates no cloud at all. Theideal combination is to sandwich a moist layerof air between two drier layers. Now move thealternating dry and moist layers over a mountainat just the right speed. Too slowly, and cloudswill just cap the mountains. Too quickly, and thepattern will break down in turbulent chaos.

As the layers move up and over the moun-tains, the air cools causing water droplets (acloud) to form within the moist layer. As the airdescends on the other side of the mountains, itwarms and evaporates the droplets. In itsdescent, however, the air dives below the levelof its origin. As it rebounds toward equilibrium, it once more over-shoots to form the next cloud in a pattern that resembles the ridges ofa washboard. The distance between successive clouds can range any-where from 5 to 25 kilometers.

While the up and down drafts associated with these clouds mayhave aircraft passengers reaching for the air distress bag, those of uson the ground can marvel at the special set of circumstances naturebrings together to create these washboards in the sky. Clouds form at the crest of each wave in the undulating airflow

over, and downwind of rugged terrain (cross-section view).

Caprice Stevenson and Matt Lindell take a break while climbing Castle Rock as wave clouds form downwindof Mount Erebus.

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Washboards in the Sky WEATHERby George Howard, MAC WeatherMcMurdo Station, Antarctica

The Antarctic Sun December 13, 1997 13

Aunt Arctica is written by a clinical psychotherapist from Washington statewith eight years experience working in individual counseling, specializingin cognitive and transpersonal psychologies for personal growth. Pleasewrite with any questions you may have. You need not include your name.All queries will be confidential.

Question: I feel lifeÕs challenges are so much more intense down here. In talking withfriends of mine last night Ðwe are all in our late 30Õs and 40ÕsÐ I find myself somewhatconfused about my direction in life. YouÕd think, as mature adults, we would have it fig-ured out already. Here I am in a seasonal job, not sure where to go from here, no kids, noÒcareerÓ, I'm ambling as if IÕm in my twenties and fresh out of college! IÕve recently comeout of a divorce Ðfinding myself with a freedom IÕm not sure what to do with. In part, itÕsexciting, but itÕs also at times overwhelming.

I like to think of life as a series ofbeginnings and endings. Before you cansuccessfully move forward, it is important tocontemplate what your past has taught youÐwhat worked for you and what didnÕt. Thisreflection will bring greater clarity aboutwhere you want to be heading in the future.

ItÕs helpful to acknowledge that you aremoving through a major life passage thatrequires a crashing down of the structureyou built to contain your dreams. This peri-

od of transition is one of great vulnerability.ItÕs not uncommon to feel confused aboutwhat to do next. Realizing this makes it pos-sible to be kinder to oneself while stumblingthrough this process.

Living on the ÔiceÕ, surrounded by peo-ple living more transient lifestyles, whohave all left something of greater permanen-cy back home, it is no wonder these feelingsof instability are intensified. Creative newmovement in your life will emerge as you

explore the foundation that yourlifeÕs choices arise from. This is theplace where your Ôcore selfÕresides.

Take some time to explore thevalues that have dictated this deep-est part of you and recognize thismay be very different from thedirection someone else has led youto believe is ÔcorrectÕ.

One way to better understandthe nature of your own Ôfounda-tionsÕ is to write out a narrative ofyour values. This exercise ofassessing your own beliefs will helpyou separate your own characteris-tics and those of the transition. Thiswill help you to assess how muchthe transition has altered your roles,relationships, and life assumptions.

It is important that you writedown what you would value if therewere nothing in your way. Explorewhat you care about and what youwould want in the best situationsÐimagine that magic happened andthat anything is possible.

Bearing these thoughts in mindas you complete the value questionsfollowing should help you find the

foundations of your spirit and lead you togreater clarity in your life.

1) Marriage/couples/intimate relations.In this section write down a description ofthe person you would like to be in an inti-mate relationship. Focus mostly on yourrole.

2) Friendships. Write down what itmeans to be a good friend. Describe howyou would treat these people if you were theideal you in these relationships.

3) Employment. In this section, describewhat type of work you would like to do.What is it about this work that appeals toyou?

4) Education. If you would like to pur-sue an education or specialized trainingwrite about how this would effect you.

5) Family Relations. Write about thetype of brother/sister, son/daughter,father/mother you would want to be.

6) Spirituality. IÕm not necessarily refer-ring to organized religion. This might be assimple as communing with nature, or as for-mal as participation in a group.

7) Physical well-being. Write aboutmaintaining your health through sleep, dietand exercise.

Ask AuntArctica...advice for staying healthy on the Ice

SnowJobs by Ben Mann

Me and the boys have been talking... and until wesee winter-over contracts, youÕre stuck in Jersey.

Chapelof the

Snows

Sundays:Catholic Service 9:30 AM

Protestant Service 11:00 AMWednesdays:

Prayer and Praise at 7:30 PM

14 December 13, 1997 The Antarctic Sun

Departing McMurdo for Black Island intwo massive Deltas vehicles, our

three-person team felt invincible. In just a fewhours we would be humbled by fate and gain anew appreciation for the toll exacted by theAntarctic environment on these seeminglyindestructible vehicles.

With tires standing five feet tall, Delta 6x6flatbed trucks are considered reliable beasts ofburden, capable of traversing through condi-tions few other land vehicles can muster.

Our mission called for just such a vehicle.We were headed for Black Island, McMurdoÕssatellite communicationssite 30 miles acrossMcMurdo Sound. Thetrip by land, however, isa 70-mile loop whichgoes behind Black Islandto avoid dangerous seaice.

An exposed traverse,no matter how you sliceit, the flags en-routewere stripped bamboopoles with remnants offlags tied to their tops.Many were splinteredand bent over due to the100 plus mph winds thatblast through the area. Iwas glad to be safe in aDelta.

A Delta is steered byhydraulics that link thecab and bed of the truck.All six tires have powerto them, but they are notmoved by the steeringwheel, the cab is. In deep snow, this steeringmakes the Delta move like a crab.

After four hours and a mile of climbingup the Ross Ice shelf, we hit snow that madeus look like a pair of very lost, over-sized seacreatures. Another 30 minutes of crawlingpassed before it was apparent something waswrong.

We got out and realized the rear left wheeldidn't have power, causing the right side to digin and get stuck. We pulled the lead Delta

around and tried to tow it. No soonerhad we towed it out than it got stuckagain. We were in a bind.

After a group huddle and a radiotalk with MacOps, communicationscentral in McMurdo, we decided toleave the troubled Delta behind andcontinue on in the other, nicknamedFlipper. We loaded our survival bagsand Extreme Cold Weather gear ontothe working Delta and trekked on.

A half hour later we entered the DarkZone. This is an area where there is little to noradio communications with McMurdo becauseit is on the opposite side of Black Island. Wechecked in one last timebefore heading into radiosilence. At that point,though down to one Delta,things seemed fine.

At 3:30 p.m. Flipper hitdeep snow and we startedÔcrabbing outÕ when we

looked back and saw that the back wheelswerenÕt engaging. I climbed out to take a look.The drive shaft from the first set of rearwheels to the second set was hanging unat-tached from the rear axle.

Now this was a pinch: no communicationsand no vehicles.

We'd have to wait at least ten hours foranother traverse to come get us. MacOpswouldnÕt send out a search and rescue missionuntil we failed to report in as scheduled in two

hours time. Then it would take another eighthours to reach us in a slow moving bulldozercalled a Challenger.

It could have been worse. With niceweather, a box of peanut butter and jelly sand-wiches and survival bags, we werenÕt con-cerned about freezing or starving.

Eventually we contacted MacOps, andafter 20 minutes of repeating our messages,they finally understood our situation and toldus to hang tight for further instructions.

I had replaced the drive shaft on aTriumph Spitfire so, I took a close look anddecided to give it a try on a 20-ton Delta.There was a tool box on board so, we climbed

under and in about 30 minuteshad removed the drive shaft andreattached it to the rear axle. Wewere feeling pretty proud ofourselves as I tightened the lastof the bolts. I crawled out fromunder the Delta to find grimac-ing faces.

ÒI think we have biggerproblems,Ó said Terry Billings.He was right. The weld thatheld the axle in place was bro-ken off. If we tried to move, thedrive shaft would just pop outagain.

Another 20 minutes of gar-bled transmissions followed andwe patched together their mes-sage, ÒHello... you.... 30 min-utes... you.... McMurdo...Ó Ahelicopter was en route.

This was a much betteralternative than spending thenight and waiting a long timefor a ride home. We staged ourbags and equipment about 100meters from the disabled deltaand laughed that we had sabo-taged two Deltas to get a heli-copter ride.

Forty minutes later weloaded into a helicopter andenjoyed a very scenic flightacross the Ross Ice Shelf, Black

Island, the Ice Runway and back to McMurdo.It was 5:45 p.m. The drive to where the lastDelta broke down took seven hours, the flighttook 20 minutes. Put me on a helicopter anyday.

Follow up: Both Deltas delivered their cargoto Black Island and have been returned toMcMurdo. Radios in the all Deltas have beenreprogrammed to a radio repeater which elimi-nates the Dark Zone behind Black Island.

Shaena Muldoon and Terry Billings take stock of their predicament as they realize one of twoDeltaÕs they were driving to Black Island is unable to continue.

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The TraverseThat DidnÕtstory and photo by Chuck Kramer

I had replaced the driveshaft on a Triumph Spitfireso, I took a close look anddecided to give it a try on

a 20-ton Delta.

The Antarctic Sun December 13, 1997 15

Last Sunday I woke not to my alarm,but to the sound of excited voices out-

side my door. A group of six skydivers andtheir staff had arrived to make a jump overthe South Pole. Through my window, I couldsee them removing excess weight from theirplane and doing a photo shoot.

My heart raced with excitement as I puton all my extreme weather gear, I knew atÐ25F it could be a long, cold wait. I joggedout to the plane just as the final hero shotswere being taken. I almost called out forthem to wait, but assumed I would take pho-tos of them later, after the jump. In the shad-ow of itÕs wing, I could just barely see theirsmiling faces.

A crowd of 30 people had formed by nowand we made our way across the runway to abright orange tarp they had laid out as a tar-get. We were given some brief instructions,and then we watched.

The plane climbed in a wide circle aboveus, through the clear sky. As it climbed Ithought back to my own experiences of jump-ing from a perfectly good plane.

As I was waiting to jump, I thumbedthrough a skydivers magazine and withshock, studied the largest obituary section Ihad ever seen. Later, I followed my friend outof the plane, for her first jump.

Not until I was safe on the ground did Ilearn that her primary chute did not openproperly. She had to pull her backup chute.She had sprained her ankle, and we felt noneed to pursue that sport again.

These thoughts filled my head as theplane climbed higher into the sky. I was notvery attentive to the planes progress. It stillseemed too far south and downwind from thetarget. I was waiting for what I thought wouldbe the right position, but then someone calledout that they saw a chute.

Slowly, a billowing blue chute cametowards us. As it approached we could seetwo people Ðit was the tandem jumpers. Theylanded about 400 ft. south of the target andabout 50 ft. from our housing. I watched withconcern because there was no movement.Slowly they righted themselves. We saw noother chutes and assumed they had notjumped yet.

It was then that the radio calls began. Avoice from the communications center asked,ÒWhere are the chutes? There should befive.Ó Someone answered, ÒThere is onlyone.Ó Now frantic, the voice exclaimed, ÒButthere should be five!Ó After a number of theseexchanges, a stern voice said, ÒIf there areany other chutes, me and about 50 other peo-ple are blind!Ó

A third jumper was found. His backupchute had self-deployed at 800 ft., but theothers were still missing. A search began andthe trauma team was summoned, so I went tothe appointed meeting place in the dome.

While waiting for instructions, communi-cations made the announcement, ÒWe haveconfirmed three dead.Ó

I decided to return to the staging site, tooffer my assistance. I assumed the jumperswould have heard the news via the radio bynow. I was wrong.

Arriving back at the site was surreal andtime took on new dimensions. The threejumpers were standing, looking outward at ascene in the distance. Their twin otter hadlanded about a mile away with a spryte, andsnowmobiles beside it.

The silence was broken by occasionalconversation. Deciding to let the scene unfoldby itself I said nothing. I was integrated intothe scene and found myself involved in smalltalk.

How odd. In time, the question I dreadedcame from the American, ÒDo you have anyinformation?Ó Slowly, considering how toword the news, I regretfully said, ÒYes, I do.ÓThe Norwegians turned and the three formeda semi-circle facing me. ÒComms has con-firmed three deadÓ.

The American quickly responded, ÒWeexpected thatÓ. What more can be said attimes like this? They turned from the sceneout in the snow field and broke off into theirown worlds. None of their eyes were skywardnow.

The moment was broken when thejumpers were invited into the dome forwarmth and food. Solemnly, as they walked,they drew one another close, until they werewalking arm over shoulder, in ahug. Their lives now having atie that was quite unwelcome.

Less than five hours aftertheir plane arrived, it left ourhome.

Our home. Most peoplewho have heard of this stationdon't think of it as someoneÕshome. It's a station, or aresearch facility, or a workcamp, or just a tourist attrac-tion, but we were home, andour home had been hit bytragedy.

We spent the rest of the dayworking through what had hap-pened. We talked about theemotions, we asked those whoresponded for details, we theo-rized why the chutes didn'topen, and we cried.

Another valid emotion

arose, anger. A plane had come to our home,let six passengers out at an altitude of 18,000ft. and three fell to their death. Friendsresponded, dug broken bodies out of four-footgraves of snow and then placed the remainsinto body bags. These friends lives are nowaltered, and our community is in pain.

A small group of friends decide to purgeour tears by watching the move, ÒInto ThinAir, Death on EverestÓ. Following the moviewe discussed the value of adventure.Although adventure is a big part of our lives,I couldnÕt help thinking of how thoughtless itcan be. Not only to loved ones, but tobystanders, as well.

A quote of Tom Robbins fit my mood atthe moment: ÒYou risked your life, but whatelse have you ever risked? Have you everrisked disapproval? Have you ever risked abelief? I see nothing particularly courageousin risking one's life. So you lose it, you go toyour heroÕs heaven and every thing is milkand honey Ôtil the end of time, right? You getyour reward and suffer no earthly conse-quences. ThatÕs not courage. Real courage isrisking something that you have to keep onliving with, real courage is risking somethingthat might force you to rethink your thoughtsand suffer change and stretch consciousness.Ó

In time this will be another memory ofmy home at the Pole. In time we will passthrough all the stages of grieving. In time Iwill be doing grand adventures. But for now Iam pausing and considering my values,responsibilities and mortality. ✹

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TragedyUnveiled

by Laurell Toeppen

Just moments before their fateful flight above the South Pole, mem-bers of the Adventure Network South Pole skydiving expedition posefor a hero shot. Ray Miller, top left, Hans Rusack, second from left,and Steve Mulholland, front row center, did not survive.

Perspectives

16 December 13, 1997 The Antarctic Sun

Spending three consecutive seasons atany United States Antarctic Program

station is frowned upon by Antarctic SupportAssociates and TheNational ScienceFoundation. Issues ofextended isolation andmental well-being are pri-mary concerns.Occasionally, however, afew individuals are calledupon to assist the pro-gram and continue offer-ing their services. Mostrecently, five South Poleworkers completed three consecutiveseasons: Summer 1996, Winter1996-97 and Summer 1997.

One thing you recognize ratherquickly when speaking with thesepeople is their easy-going, acceptingnature. With so much time spent onthe ice, they seem to have adjustedto a polar rhythm of life. In addition,they are, one and all, full of goodcheer and smiles --all one can specu-late is that thePoleÕs rarefied airhas touched theirspirits deeply.

Dawn Laprete.Despite a bankaccount in Vail,Colorado, a stor-age locker onOrcas Island inWashington andhaving grown up in New Jersey, Dawn Lapreteis happiest calling the South Pole her home.After 13 consecutive months there, she has theright to do so.

Laprete worked as a cook through theentire experience, feeding all 29 peoplethroughout the long, dark winter. ÒMy favoritewas chocolate decadence,Ó said Laprete.ÒChocolate, sugar and cream is all you need,plus a special event, like the sunset party.Ó

Each night after work, Laprete would headout into the darkness for walks. Those walksseem to have a special place in her spirit. ÒThesky here is one of the most beautiful things IÕveever seen,Ó says Laprete. ÒI felt like I was onthe moon. It was so isolated and desolate out-

side the station. But in the end there isnÕt muchto look at, its just the little things which arebeautiful, like patterns in the snow.Ó

Lisa and Ken Lobe. Lisa Lobe and herhusband Ken Lobe, hailing from Cordova,Alaska, passed their silver wedding anniversaryat the South Pole over the winter. ÒIt was justgreat,Ó said Ken. ÒIÕm from a small town, welive in a small town. This is no different.Ó

ÒIÕm always look-ing for a new chal-lenge,Ó said Lisa Lobe,a communicationsworker by summerand inventory controlspecialist in winter.ÒThe winter sky is so spectacular Ðthe auroras,the starsÐ theyÕre always changing. The moonis so bright. It just chokes me up thinking aboutit.Ó

The two were the only married couple thatspent the winter at the South Pole and are quickto add theyÕd do it all again. ÒCome backagain?Ó inquired Lisa. ÒOf course, in fact IÕdstay the winter if I could.Ó

John Paul McMullan. John PaulMcMullan, better known as ÔJPÕ is an Antarcticveteran with five working seasons under hisbelt before his latest run. Like many long-timers, JP started as a general assistant, or GA,and worked his way through the system, fromPalmer Station and eventually to the SouthPole.

For McMullan, like many people who win-ter at the South Pole, the experience is difficultto incapsulate in a few words. ÒYou can onlydescribe the winter so far. ThereÕs nothing torelate it to, just stars, darkness and the auroras.I hiked the Appalachian Trail for 2,200 milesover seven and a half months, and that experi-ence is tough to describe, too. Really, so fewpeople have the opportunity to experience thisplace, itÕs little things like that which are impor-tant to me.

Three consecutiveseasons on the ice havedone little to curtailMcMullans passion forthis world which hasbecome his home. ÒOnSaturday, I went out forthree hours, North ofthe ski-runway. Thewarmth of the sun wason my face and it wasdead quiet. Even after ayear here, I thought

about my relationship to other peo-ple on the planet. ItÕs still powerful.Ó

Brian Ellspermann. Raisedamidst the heat of Nashville,Tennessee, the South Pole seems anunlikely home for BrianEllspermann. A glimpse at his rang-ing beard and contented smile con-firms, however, that the polarextreme matches EllspermannÕscharacter.

ÒThe winter is an unforgettableexperience,Ó said Ellspermann. ÒThefull magnitude of my winter experi-ence has not really had time to sinkin, but little things hit me everyday,and I think often of the friends madeduring the long dark night.

ÒOne of my favorite things wasthe night sky. The polar night is a truly magicaltime. IÕll miss the dark sky full of stars, auro-ra's, and the full moon lighting up the area andthe walks outside to see all the new driftsaround summer camp and the station.

ÒThis winter brought me for the challenge,and it was. Would I do it again? Hell yes, if itseemed like the trail I should follow! IÕm stillliving the dream.Ó ✹

Holding DownThe Polestory and photos by Alexander Colhoun

Profile

Lisa Ken

Dawn

BrianJ.P.