Textile Spinning to Textile Spinning to Finishing Process.Finishing Process.

M.Tauqeer –

Cotton Silk

Linen

Wool

Viscose

Polyester

Lycra

NylonAcrylic

Basic Fibers

Fiber typesClassification based on physical nature

• Staple fibers– Cotton, Wool, Linen, VR, PSF

• Filaments– Silk, PFY, VR– Micro deniers

Staple Fiber & Filaments

Fiber Properties

Wool- Comfortable, Good to feel, Versatile, Lightweight, Good insulator, Wrinkle-resistant, Absorbent, Durable(Like TWEED).

Cotton- Comfortable, Breathable, Machine-washable, dry-cleanable, Good strength, Drapes well, Soft hand, Absorbent, Wrinkle.

Silk- Soft & Crisp hand, Luxurious & Drapes well, Thinnest of all natural fibers, Hand-washable or dry-cleanable, Poor resistance to prolonged exposure to sunlight

Fiber Properties .. contd

Polynosic - Drapes well, Excellent luster, Breathable, Can be dyed in bright colors, Characteristic: Hazy appearance.

Polyester - Strong, Crisp, soft hand, Resistant to stretching and shrinkage, Washable or dry-cleanable, Quick drying, Resilient, wrinkle resistant, excellent pleat retention (if heat set), Easy care.

Woven Fabric Manufacturing Cotton system

Spinning Yarn

WeavingGreige fabric

Wet ProcessingFinished fabric

Inspection Packed fabric

Spinning

Plucking & Cleaning Blow room Carding Combing Draw frame Simplex Ring frame Yarn

Plucking.

At this stage cotton bales are manually opened and are put in Pluckers are machines which mix the cotton and separate the bales into smaller denominations. The separated cotton is then transferred into the Blow Room.

Blow Room

The Blow Room is a facility, which is primarily used for the Cleaning, Mixing and Opening of cotton for yarn production. Cotton is processed through various stages in this area through different machines and the main objective is to refine the cotton being used in yarn production.

Carding Department

The main function of this department is to transform the cotton into Sliver. The main objective here is to maintain the uniformity, alignment and stretch ability of the fiber as per the desired standards

Combing

The main function of this department is to transform the cotton Sliver in to more fine and inject the raw material and also putting short fiber to get more longer fiber for durability.

Draw Frame

The function of the Draw Frame is to create a roving consistent in size over its entire length. The draw frame blends multiple roving into one fiber.

The draw frame results in strong, uniform roving of a size that can be easily managed at the spinner

Simplex

Simplex is the process of shaping the Sliver into Roving. The main processes involved are Grafting, Twisting and Winding the sliver and shaping it like a thin rope.

Ring frame

This is function where the yarn is finally produced. The Roving are put on the machines used here and passing the roving through the machine produces yarns. The main objective of the machines here is again Grafting, Twisting and Winding. Once the cotton thread is produced it is collected in the form of Bobbin.

Spinning Laboratory

The second important section of the spinning facility is the Test Laboratory which is mainly responsible for the inspection and testing of the cotton samples and monitoring

Yarn Count Yarn Strength Sliver Test Check Machinery Faults

etc.

Yarn types & Characteristics Spun - carded, combed Long staple spng - Worsted, Spun Silk Filament - Mono & Multifilament Doubled yarn - single & 2-ply

Stronger, Uniform, blending

Yarn twist - S & Z, TPI, High Twist, Knit yarns.

Stretch yarns - Lycra, Mechanical Slub Yarns, Lurex

Yarn Finishes

Singeing = Singing is the process of removing the uneven fibers

Mercerizing = The treatment caused the fibers to swell, the process shrunk the overall fabric size and made it stronger and easier

to dye. Bleaching, Dyeing Synthetics

Texturising Anti Static

Blending

Fiber blending can be carried out at all the foll stages of fabric manufacturing :

at Spinning at Doubling at Weaving

Advantages - To get the best properties of both Natural and Synthetic fibers.

PolyesterCotton

Polyester Cotton

67%33%

Material-Blending

Chief Value Cotton (CVC) /Cotton Rich

Polyester (40%)+Cotton(60%) Cotton

•Comfort, Soft handle Polyester

• Crease resistance, Easy care

Polyester Cotton (PC)

Polyester (67%) and Cotton (33%) Cotton

•comfortable to wear •greater strength

Polyester

•Resistance from creases, Quick dry, ETI

Yarn numbering systems

Indirect system Ne - English Count (Cotton, P/V) 140s,

120s, 100s, 80s, 60s, 50s, 40s, 30s, 20s, 16s, 14s, 12s, 10s, 9s, 6s, 1s

Nm - New Metric (P/W Worsted) Direct system

Tex - Universal system Denier (All filament yarns) 22D, 44D, 75D,

150D, 300D Fine & Coarse yarns - Handle, Luster,

Uniformity, Dye Uptake, Drape

Doubled yarns

2 ply 2/80s = 40s equivalent

3 ply 3/60s = 20s equivalent

Advantages - Stronger & Durable Improved Hand feel, Cleaner look, Luster Reduced tendency to pill, abrasion resistance

Weaves

Fabric

Finishes

Weaving

Interlacement of Warp & Weft on Loom Preparation for weaving Warping, Sectional Warping Sizing Warp beam preparation Gaiting & Doffing

Warp n Weft

Yarn on 2 sides of Fabric end Warp (Vertical)

Weft (Horizontal)

pick

Fabric-Weave representation.

Weft yarns(Red)

Warp yarns(Blue)

Selvage(Yellow)

Fabric Construction

Blend ratio - C/P 60/40

Count - 2/40s Ne x 2/20s Ne

Construction (epi x ppi) - 130x60 (fin.)

Weave - 3/1 RHT

Weight - 270 GSM

Fabric-Weaves

The most commonly used weaves are : Plain weave - Poplin, Tussore

•Hopsack, Matte weave•Oxfords - PPO, Classical

Twill weave

•Herringbone, Chino, Gabardine, RHT, LHT

Satin/Sateen Other - Mock leno, Honeycomb, Dobbies,

Jacquards, Pique, Corduroy, Double Cloth Non-Woven

Plain weave - Max no. of interlacements

Types of Twill weave- Diagonal patterns on surface

Twill (LHT) Herringbone (Broken Twill)

Gabardine

Matte Weave Also known as BASKET WEAVE It’s a variation of plain weave. Uses doubled yarn to produce a basket like

design on the face of the fabric

Chambray

Gives a two tone look Used in : All types of garments

History : Named after Chambray province in France

Colour Warp Yarn

White Weft Yarn

Fil-a-Fil

Gives two tone look Used in : All types of garments

Alternate Colour & White Warp Yarn

White Weft Yarn

Oxford

Matt feel fabric

1.Classical (Larger heads) 40sx2/30s

2. PPO (Small heads), 2/80sx2/80s

Used in :Shirts - light weights Trousers - heavy weights

Benefit :Hard wearing History :Popularized in the US, as proper executive

wear by Brooks Brother’s

Classical PPO

Corduroy

Used in : Bottom wear and outerwear Benefit : Hardwearing fabric for outdoor wear

Warmth providing fabric History : Named after Corde Du Roi,

French for - Cloth of King

Denim

Twill Chambray - Indigo dyed Warp & Undyed Weft Used in: Jeans - heavy weights

Outerwear - heavy weight Shirts / Tops - light weight

Benefit: Hard wearing

Trendy History: Named after a place in France called Diemes.

What You Need To Know About Trousers

Finishes

Fabric

Weaves

Wet Processing

Desizing Scouring, Singeing Bleaching Mercerising Padding & development - types of Dyes Stenter & Finishing Calendaring, Peaching, etc

Types of Dyeing

Top dyeing - P/V, Melanges

Yarn dyeing - Beam Dyeing - Denims

Fabric dyeing – Piece dye, Cross dye Dispels Dye for CVC fabrics Reactive Dye Sulfur Dye ( blocked due to Azo free)

Garment dyeing Printing - Block, Screen, Rotary, Flocking, Burn outs,

Laser

Finishing : Chemical & Mechanical

Softener Enzyme Micro sanding, Peaching Resin, ETI, Non-iron Stain repellent / Soil release Anti Bacterial Absorbent / Quick dry Denim washes - Bleach, Stone, Acid, Sandblasting Anti-static, Flame retardant

Fabric Properties - tech analysis for testing performance

Count, Construction, GSM, Blend %, TPI Pilling Tear & Tensile strength Shrinkage % Color fastness - Wash, Light, Rub, Wet Alkali

in both dry & wet conditions Iron ability,

Washes and Finishes

WashesA process by which finished garments are put

into huge washers and treated with chemicals to get the required effect.

Garments are washed to influence: • Physical properties like:softness, drape,absorbency

and creasing• The appearance of fabric by changing the colour or

luster• Shrinkage

PrintingPrinting

Pigment Printing. Pigment printing include the application of pigment dyes on the surface of the fabric. These dyes form a thin film on the surface of the fabric. The fixation of the dyes is then done through curing.

Reactive Printing. Reactive dyes react with the fibers of the fabric, once applied to give the desired shades. The fabric is then dried and washed so the dyes are fixed and the unfixed dyes are removed

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