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TextbookofFABRICSCIENCE

FundamentalstoFinishingSecondEdition

SEEMASEKHRIAssociateProfessor

DepartmentofFabricandApparelScienceLadyIrwinCollege

Delhi

Delhi-1100922016

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TEXTBOOKOFFABRICSCIENCE:FundamentalstoFinishing,SecondEditionSeemaSekhri

©2016byPHILearningPrivateLimited,Delhi.Allrightsreserved.Nopartofthisbookmaybereproducedinanyform,bymimeographoranyothermeans,withoutpermissioninwritingfromthepublisher.

ISBN-978-81-203-5239-1

Theexportrightsofthisbookarevestedsolelywiththepublisher.

Fourth Printing (Second Edition)$emsp$$ $emsp$$...$emsp$$...$emsp$$... $emsp$$ $emsp$$ May,2016

PublishedbyAsokeK.Ghosh,PHILearningPrivateLimited,RimjhimHouse,111,PatparganjIndustrialEstate,Delhi-110092andPrintedbyRajPress,NewDelhi-110012.

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Dedication

Inthelovingmemoryofmyfather

ProfessorRamNathChopra(October12,1928–October23,2007)

Whotaughtmehowtoholdapencil...Andsomuchmore...

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TableofContents

PrefacePrefacetotheFirstEditionAcknowledgementsPartI:Fundamentals1.Introduction1.1Evidenceofearlyuse:Whendidclothingoriginate?1.2Reasonsforearlyuse:whydidclothingoriginate?1.3TextilehistoryinIndia1.4CurrentScenario1.5Applicationsoftextiles2.ClassificationofTextileFibres2.1Naturalfibres2.1.1Animal/ProteinFibres2.1.2Plant/CellulosicFibres2.1.3NaturalRubber2.1.4NaturalMineral2.2Manufacturedfibres2.2.1RegeneratedFibres2.2.2SyntheticFibres2.2.3InorganicFibres2.3FibreIdentification2.3.1VisualExamination2.3.2MicroscopicEvaluation2.3.3BurningTest2.3.4ChemicalTests3.TextileFibreComposition3.1ThefoundationsofFabric3.2MonomersandPolymers3.4TypesofPolymers3.5Bondinginfibres3.5.1Intra-polymerBonding3.5.2Inter-polymerBonds3.6PolymerArrangement3.7Requirementsoffibre-formingpolymers4.FibreProperties

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4.1DIFFERENCEBETWEENPRIMARYANDSECONDARYPROPERTIES4.2PRIMARYPROPERTIES4.2.1HighLengthtoWidthRatio4.2.2Tenacity4.2.3Flexibility4.2.4SpinningQualityorCohesiveness4.2.5Uniformity4.3SECONDARYPROPERTIES4.3.1Morphology4.3.2SpecificGravity(SG)4.3.3ElongationandElasticRecovery4.3.4Resiliency4.3.5MoistureRegain4.3.6FlammabilityandOtherThermalReactions4.3.7ElectricalConductivity4.3.8AbrasionResistance4.3.9ChemicalReactivityandResistance4.3.10BiologicalResistance4.3.11SensitivitytoEnvironmentalConditionsPartII:Fibres5.NaturalProteinFibres5.1HISTORYOFSILK5.2SILKININDIA5.3PRODUCTIONandPROCESSINGOFSILK5.4CHEMICALCOMPOSITIONofSilk5.5PROPERTIESOFSILK5.5.1MicroscopicProperties5.5.2PhysicalProperties5.5.3ChemicalProperties5.5.4BiologicalProperties5.5.5OtherProperties5.6USESofsilk5.7CAREofSilk5.8SILKORGANISATIONSININDIA5.9HISTORYOFWOOL5.10WOOLPRODUCTIONININDIA5.11STEPSINWOOLPRODUCTION5.12SOMETYPESOFWOOLS

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5.13CHEMICALCOMPOSITIONANDMOLECULARSTRUCTUREofWool5.14PROPERTIESOFWOOL5.14.1MicroscopicAppearance5.14.2PhysicalProperties5.14.3ChemicalProperties5.14.4BiologicalProperties5.14.5OtherProperties5.15USESofWool5.16CAREofWool5.17ORGANISATIONSandCERTIFICATIONMARKSDEALINGWITHWOOL5.18SPECIALITYHAIRFIBRES5.19FUR6.NaturalCellulosics6.1HISTORY6.2COTTONININDIA6.3GROWTHANDPRODUCTION6.4CHEMICALCOMPOSITIONofCotton6.5COTTONPROPERTIES6.5.1MicroscopicAppearance6.5.2PhysicalProperties6.5.3ThermalProperties6.5.4ChemicalProperties6.5.5BiologicalProperties6.5.6OtherProperties6.6USESofCotton6.7CAREofCotton6.8SomeOtherCottons6.9INDIANORGANISATIONSFORCOTTON6.10HISTORY6.11GROWTHANDPRODUCTION6.12CHEMICALCOMPOSITION6.13PROPERTIESOFLINEN6.13.1MicroscopicCharacterisation6.13.2PhysicalProperties6.13.3ThermalProperties6.13.4ChemicalProperties

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6.13.5BiologicalProperties6.13.6OtherProperties6.14USESOFLINEN6.15CAREofLinen6.16OTHERCELLULOSICFIBRES6.17JUTE:PRESENTSTATUSandUSES6.18LISTOFORGANISATIONSINTHEJUTESECTOR7.RegeneratedFibres7.1HISTORY7.2WORLDPRODUCTION7.3MANUFACTURINGPROCESS7.3.1Rayon7.3.2Acetate7.4CHEMICALCOMPOSITION7.5PROPERTIES7.5.1MicroscopicCharacterisation7.5.2PhysicalProperties7.5.3ChemicalProperties7.5.4BiologicalProperties7.5.5OtherProperties7.6USES7.7CARE7.8ORGANISATIONSINTHISSECTOR8.SyntheticandInorganicFibres8.1HiSTORYandWORLDPRODUCTION8.2CHEMISTRYandMANUFACTURINGSTEPS8.3PROPERTIESOFNYLON8.3.1MicroscopicProperties8.3.2PhysicalProperties8.3.3ChemicalProperties8.3.4BiologicalandOtherProperties8.4USESOFNYLON8.5CAREofNylon8.6HISTORYandWORLDPRODUCTION8.7CHEMICALCOMPOSITIONANDMANUFACTURE8.8PROPERTIESOFPoLYESTER8.8.1MicroscopicProperties8.8.2PhysicalProperties

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8.8.3ChemicalProperties8.8.4BiologicalandOtherProperties8.9UsesofPolyester8.10CareofPolyester8.11HISTORYANDWORLDPRODUCTION8.12CHEMICALCOMPOSITIONANDMANUFACTURE8.13PROPERTIESofAcrylic8.13.1MicroscopicProperties8.13.2PhysicalProperties8.13.3ChemicalProperties8.13.4BiologicalandOtherProperties8.14USESofAcrylic8.15CAREofAcrylic8.16OLEFINS8.17SPANDEX8.18ARAMIDS8.19CARBONFIBRES8.20GLASSFIBRES8.21METALLICFIBRES8.22ORGANISATIONSINTHISSECTORPartIII:Yarns9.YarnProduction9.1TypesofYarns9.1.1SpunYarns9.1.2FilamentYarns9.1.3Tape,NetworkorFilmYarns9.2HISTORY9.3SPUNYARNPRODUCTION9.3.1Conventional/MechanicalSpinning9.3.2Non-conventionalSpinning9.3.3SpunYarnsfromManufacturedFibres9.4ProductionofFilamentyarns(chemicalspinning)9.4.1MeltSpinning9.4.2DrySpinning9.4.3WetSpinning9.4.4GelSpinning9.4.5EmulsionSpinning9.5Somevariationsinchemicalspinning

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10.YarnProperties10.1DIFFERENCEBETWEENATHREADANDAYARN10.2YARNTWIST10.2.1AmountofTwist10.2.2DirectionofTwist10.2.3DegreeofBalance10.3YARNNUMBER(YARNCOUNTORYARNSIZE)10.3.1DirectYarnNumber10.3.2IndirectYarnNumber10.4YARNSTRUCTUREORSUBPARTS10.4.1SingleYarn10.4.2PlyYarn10.4.3CordYarn10.5ONTHEBASISOFVISUALAPPEARANCE10.5.1SmoothFilamentYarns10.5.2TexturedFilamentYarns10.6BASEDonYARNFUNCTION:DURABILITYORDESIGN10.6.1SimpleYarns10.6.2ComplexYarnsPartIV:Fabrics11.Weaving11.1Loom:partsandmotions11.2Typesoflooms11.2.1HandloomsandPowerlooms11.2.2ShuttleandShuttlelessLooms11.3Wovenfabrics:someconcepts11.4Weaves11.4.1BasicWeaves11.4.2Fancyweaves11.5SOMEINNOVATIONSINWEAVING11.5.1TriaxialWeaving11.5.2CircularWeaving11.5.3MultipleShedWeaving12.Knitting12.1HISTORYOFKNITTING12.2KNITTING:SOMECONCEPTS12.2.1Stitches12.2.2GaugeorCut

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12.2.3TechnicalFaceandTechnicalBack12.2.4Needles12.3WEFTANDWARPKNITS12.4WEFTKNITSTITCHES12.4.1Plain,Single,Jersey12.4.2PurlFabric12.4.3RibFabric12.4.4InterlockFabric12.4.5VariationsinStitch12.5WARPKNITTING12.5.1Tricot12.5.2Raschel12.5.3MilaneseKnits12.5.4Simplex12.6VARIATIONSINKNITTING12.7COMPARISONOFKNITTINGWITHWEAVING12.8PROPERTIESOFKNITS12.9USESANDCAREOFKNITS13.Non-wovensandOtherMethodsofFabricConstruction13.1Introduction13.2Non-wovencategories13.3FELTS13.3.1WoolFelts13.3.2NeedleFelts13.4BONDEDFABRICS13.5OTHERMETHODSOFFABRICCONSTRUCTION13.5.1BraidedFabrics13.5.2Laces13.5.3LaminatedFabrics13.5.4Nets13.5.5StitchBondedFabrics13.5.6TuftingPartV:Finishing14.BasicandSpecialFinishing14.1CLASSIFICATIONOFFINISHES14.1.1OntheBasisoftheLifeofaFinish14.1.2OntheBasisofModeofAction14.1.3OntheBasisofAchievedResults

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14.2BASIC/ROUTINEFINISHES14.2.1Beetling14.2.2Inspection14.2.3Singeing14.2.4Desizing14.2.5Scouring14.2.6Bleaching14.2.7Stiffening,Weighting14.2.8BasicCalendering14.2.9Tentering14.2.10Mercerisation14.3FUNCTIONALFINISHESTHATALTER14.3.1SpecialCalendering14.3.2RaisedSurfaceFinishes14.3.3Delustrants14.3.4OpticalBrighteningAgents(OBAs)14.3.5AcidFinishes14.3.6Alkali(Basic)Finishes14.3.7SofteningFinishes14.3.8StiffeningFinishes14.3.9FadingFinishes14.4FUNCTIONALFINISHESTHATALTER14.4.1AbsorbentFinishes14.4.2AntistaticFinishes14.4.3AbrasionResistantFinishes14.4.4AntislipFinishes14.4.5StainandSoilResistantFinishes14.4.6DurablePressFinish14.4.7ShrinkResistantFinishes14.4.8FlameResistantFinishes14.4.9Water-repellentandWaterproofFinishes14.4.10AntipesticideFinishes14.4.11LightReflectantFinishes14.4.12MothProofFinishes14.4.13AntimicrobialFinishes14.4.14MicroencapsulationFinishes14.5NANOTECHNOLOGYINFINISHINGINDUSTRY14.6INTERRELATEDNESSOFFINISHES

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12.FinishingwithColour:DyeingandPrinting15.1INTRODUCTION15.2DYECLASSES15.2.1AcidDyes15.2.2AzoicDyesorNaptholDyes15.2.3BasicorCationicDyes15.2.4DirectDyes15.2.5DisperseDyes15.2.6ReactiveDyes15.2.7VatDyes15.3STAGESOFDYEING15.3.1SolutionorDopeDyeing15.3.2FibreDyeing15.3.3YarnDyeing15.3.4FabricDyeingorPieceDyeing15.3.5ProductDyeing15.4SCALESOFDYEING15.5COLOURVALUES15.6PRINTINGHistory15.7BASICSTYLESORPRINCIPLESOFPRINTING15.7.1DirectPrinting15.7.2ResistPrinting15.7.3DischargePrinting15.7.4MordantPrinting15.7.5TransferPrinting(SublimationPrinting)15.8METHODSOFPRINTINGORPRINTING15.8.1BlockPrinting15.8.2Rollerprinting15.8.3Tie-dye15.8.4Batik15.8.5StencilPrinting15.8.6ScreenPrinting15.8.7Miscellaneous15.9COLOURFASTNESS15.9.1ColourFastnesstoWashing15.9.2ColourFastnesstoCrocking15.9.3ColourFastnesstoPerspiration15.9.4ColourFastnesstoLight

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PartVI:ConsumerConcerns16.ChoosinganAppropriateFabric:GuidelinesforConsumers16.1Introduction16.2Appearance16.3Comfort16.4Performance16.5Durability16.6CareUniversityTestPaper1UniversityTestPaper2UniversityTestPaper3UniversityTestPaper4UniversityTestPaper5Index

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Textbook of Fabric Science :Fundamentals to Finishing

Publisher : PHI Learning ISBN : 9788120352391 Author : Seema Sekhri

Type the URL : http://www.kopykitab.com/product/10243

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