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Memories, Old and New of the Tetons

Paolini Family Vacation September 2006

By

A. Rod Paolini

2006

Teton range and Snake River

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Telephone calls keep Kathy and me in touch with ourdaughter Nicole and son Jared, but dont enable usto share our lives together. Its sharing anexperience, both good and bad, that keeps people

together.

One of my most wonderful and memorableexperiences were two summers in the Grand TetonNational Park in Wyoming. Over the years, I oftenrelated my experiences, and Kathy often declaredthat she wanted to see it.

To be honest, I had some misgivings: Ihad a serious summer romance in thesecond year, one that went foolishly

beyond summer. Would memoriesoverwhelm the present? Then in 2003,the annual TKE reunion was held in theTetons, and while the memories cameback, I realized that the place was sospectacular that I wanted to share it withmy family and have new memories.

The Tetons range, Jackson Hole (valley) andtown of Jackson

Sky and Sage

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Thursday, September 21, 2006

Unless forced by necessity, the Paolini family does not set out early forits adventures; we finally were able to set out at noon for our hike

around Two Ocean Lake, a seeming misnomer but as the day evolvedand the weather turned foul, its size seemed to match its name.Turning off the main road (U.S. 26,89,191) on Pacific Creek Road andthen on to an unpaved stone road, we arrived at the trailhead only to bereceived by a gentle rain. The question arose in everyones mind aswhether or not to set forth on a hike, but Jared stated that a little rainshouldnt stop us; however, as he later explained, he meant only thatwe should wander about in the immediate vicinity. I, on the other hand,interpreted the remark that we should set forth on a 3.1 mile hike along

the lake shore.

My boots are covered mostly by a nylon mesh that allowed the

water from the grass and shrubs growing along the trail to drip onmy boots as well as my pant legs. Within a few hundred yards, mfeet were wet; but as my socks were wool which has thermalproperties even when wet, they werent cold. Others did not seeto have my extreme situation. We all had slickers.

About two-thirds of the way to the end of the lake, I thought I thaspied an animal across the lake but then thought it was a treetrunk. But a view through the binoculars proved it to be a bullmoose who obviously saw us quite clearly as it stared directly at

The rainfall increased, but as we were almost at the end of the

lake, we decided to forge ahead and return along the other side to make a loop; besides, the other sidelooked more level. And then it snowed! Not soft whiteflakes, but a shower! We sloshed through the puddles onthe path. I relinquished my lead position to Nicole whoseemed positively energized--or perhaps just earnest toget out of the wet.

It was notpleasant, but it

was somewhatenchantingbecause wewere experiencing the rawness of nature. The area was agrassland that had turned golden with fall; there were stanof cottonwoods and aspens together with large green shrubdown at the waters edge. The sky was overcast and hazywhite and the wind blew the snow flakes so they felldiagonally and swirled about.

Trail around Two Ocean Lak

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We had thought of stopping at Jackson Lake Lodge for a drink, but now we just wanted to peel off ourwet clothes, sip some hot tea, and sit by a fire. And so we did. Perhaps we were a bit too tired to talk, perhaps no mundane topic seemed appropriate. I suggested some poetry and used Jareds computer find Ovids Arethusa that had been read to Kathy and me when we were in Sicily.

Ovids ArethusaIn Elis first I breathd the living air,The chase was all my pleasure, all my care.None lovd like me the forest to explore,To pitch the toils, and drive the bristled boar.Of fair, tho masculine, I had the name,But gladly woud to that have quitted claim:It less my pride than indignation raisd,To hear the beauty I neglected, praisd;Such compliments I loathd, such charms as theseI scornd, and thought it infamy to please.

Once, I remember, in the summers heat,Tird with the chase, I sought a cool retreat;

And, walking on, a silent current found,Which gently glided o'er the gravly ground.The chrystal water was so smooth, so clear,

My eye distinguishd evry pebble there.So soft its motion, that I scarce perceivdThe running stream, or what I saw believd.The hoary willow, and the poplar, made

Along the shelving bank a grateful shade.

In the cool rivulet my feet I dipt,Then waded to the knee, and then I stript;My robe I careless on an osier threw,That near the place commodiously grew;Nor long upon the border naked stood,But plungd with speed into the silver flood.My arms a thousand ways I movd, and trydTo quicken, if I coud, the lazy tide;Where, while I playd my swimming gambols oer,I heard a voice, and frighted sprung to shore.

Oh! whither, Arethusa, dost thou fly?

From the brooks bottom did Alpheus cry;Again, I heard him, in a hollow tone,Oh! whither, Arethusa, dost thou run?Naked I flew, nor coud I s tay to hideMy limbs, my robe was on the other side;

Alpheus followd fast, th inflaming sightQuickend his speed, and made his labour light;He sees me ready for his eager arms,

And with a greedy glance devours my charms.

As trembling doves from pressing danger fly,When the fierce hawk comes sousing from the sky;

And, as fierce hawks the trembling doves pursue,From him I fled, and after me he flew.First by Orchomenus I took my flight,

And soon had Psophis and Cyllene in sight;Behind me then high Maenalus I lost,

And craggy Erimanthus scald with frost;Elis was next; thus far the ground I trodWith nimble feet, before the distancd God.

But here I laggd, unable to sustainThe labour longer, and my flight maintain;While he more strong, more patient of the toil,

And fird with hopes of beautys speedy spoil,Gaind my lost ground, and by redoubled pace,Now left between us but a narrow space.Unwearyd I till now o'er hills, and plains,Oer rocks, and rivers ran, and felt no pains:The sun behind me, and the God I kept,But, when I fastest shoud have run, I stept.

Before my feet his shadow now appeard;As what I saw, or rather what I feard.Yet there I could not be deceivd by fear,Who felt his breath pant on my braided hair,

And heard his tread, and knew him to be near.

Tird, and despairing, O celestial maid,Im caught, I cryd, without thy heavnly aid.Help me, Diana, help a nymph forlorn,Devoted to the woods, who long has wornThy livery, and long thy quiver born.

The Goddess heard; my pious prayr prevaild;In muffling clouds my virgin head was veild,The amrous God, deluded of his hopes,Searches the gloom, and thro the darkness gropes;Twice, where Diana did her servant hideHe came, and twice, O Arethusa! cryd.How shaken was my soul, how sunk my heart!The terror seizd on evry trembling part.Thus when the wolf about the mountain prowlsFor prey, the lambkin hears his horrid howls:The timrous hare, the pack approaching nigh,Thus hearkens to the hounds, and the cry;

Nor dares she stir, for fear her scented breathDirect the dogs, and guide the threatend death.

Alpheus in the cloud no traces foundTo mark my way, yet stays to guard the ground,The God so near, a chilly sweat possestMy fainting limbs, at evry pore exprest;My strength distilld in drops, my hair in dew,My form was changd, and all my substance new.Each motion was a stream, and my whole frameTurnd to a fount, which still preserves my name.

Resolvd I shoud not his embrace escape,Again the God resumes his fluid shape;To mix his streams with mine he fondly tries,But still Diana his attempt denies.She cleaves the ground; thro caverns dark I run

A diffrent current, while he keeps his own.To dear Ortygia she conducts my way,

And here I first review the welcome day.

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Friday, September 22, 2006

We awoke Friday to a glorious view of the mountains that were nowstreaked white with snow. Low, dark clouds hovered over the

valley, but there was also sunshine that provided some warmtheven though there was a steady wind.

We drove into the Park at Moose Junction andthen turned onto a gravel road called RiverRoad; the Park map annotated the name with4-wheel driver required. I had requested aJeep Grand Cherokee but had received aneven larger SUV: a Toyota Sequoia with 4-wheel drive. I forged confidently ahead until we came to a steep decline. This isgood enough, I said, and parked.

We descended onto the valley floor which had been carved

by the Snake River as it meandered over the valley in thecourse of thousands of years. We came upon a number oflog cabins which resembled a ghost town, but we laterlearned that it was an abandoned dude ranch called theBar BC.I read later that even without electricity and running water,the ranch attracted upscale guests who traveled here bytrain from as far away as the east coast. In operationbetween 1912 and 1986, the tumbledown woodenstructures are now owned by the park.

Nicole always seems tobeam out of a picture.We have several familyphotographs of the fourof us, but my eyes are immediatelydrawn to her as though a spotlight ison her. Only after studying her do Ithen focus on others in the photograph.

This photograph of Jared reminded meof the climbing bums that hung out aJenny Lake when I sojourned in 1962.

[There was a climbing school here because a mountain cliff provided aplace of instruction and practice.] Its always a surprise to see how Jared

looks as his head and facial hair are different from one month to the next.I dont know whether he is making a fashion statement or just a haphazardattitude about his appearance. This week he featured a beard that wasevenly trimmed so that he looked rather rakish.

Hiking along an elevated bank of the river, we spotted a bull moose, thennoticed his mate, much smaller and partially hidden behind anembankment. Unfortunately we did not get a picture.

View of Tetons from condo

Toyota Sequoia

Bar BC cabin

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Next we drove north to Jenny Lake, and we hiked along itssouthern edge. The path was right at the waters edge, anthe wind was whipping fiercely off the lake. Eventually we

reached the southeastern edge and the path moved awayfrom the lake so that it was quite pleasant.

Next we drove northto Jackson LakeLodge where I hadworked 46 yearsbefore in 1960. Iasked the desk clerkwhether or not I

could visit the dishroom, a question that provoked the mostquizzical expression. I worked her forty-six years ago in thedishroom, I explained, and I would like to see it again with my

family. My request was granted, and we escorted into theservice corridor and into the dishroom. Rather than collegestudents, the staff was entirely Mexican immigrants. Moreautomated equipment had been installed, and so I explained thevarious operational positions of the dishwashing operation along with their associated social status andthe actual persons who held them.

Our guide then mentioned a few people as though I would still remember them; and then opened acommemorative book and pointed to a list of people that indicated their beginning and ending dates ofemployment or at least I thought they were ending dates until I more closely read such captions such1958 to present! To present! I exclaimed. I was astounded.

The building had not changed significantly thought thereservation desk now had computers. The great readingroom or lounge was much the same with its great windowfacing the Teton range and its two huge fireplacescrackling even in the afternoon. The fountain grill lookedexactly the same with its 1950's design and decor. But anew lounge had been added to the rear, and we lunchedwhile resting and warming ourselves in sun under glass.

My second tour of duty in the Tetons was in 1962 atanother facility of the company, that of Colter Bay. Wefirst looked for the dormitories in which the guys and galswere housed for the summer along with a recreational hall;

and then the cabins for which I serviced the maid as acabin boy.

Jenny Lake and Mt. Teewinot

Trail around Jenny Lake

View from Jackson Lake Lodge

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We did a brief hike along the Bay, and then into theforest to a pond with the hope of spotting some moos

It

became evident that we had taken the wrong trail, and sowhen I found a trail that headed toward the pond, wedecided to take it even though it was labeled NotMaintained. It was a pretty trail though it required someagile climbing over fallen trees. We were at the crest of ahill when I spotted an owl sitting on a stump and facingaway from us. As we gathered, the owl heard us, turned,and then flew up, around and over the trees with a greatflutter of wings.

We headed home on the main highway that runs witthe valley (Jackson Hole) with the mountains to thewest and the hills of Bridger-Teton National Forest tothe east. The clouds were thick, and alternately darkand bright depending upon how the setting sun structhem.

The affect on the land was even more dramatic withdark shadows of the clouds and brilliant sunlit patcheson the hills. We were cold and hungry, and anxious toget home. But I think I could have stopped and gazedon this miracle for hours.

Colter Bay

Sneaking up on an owl

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Saturday, September 23, 2006

Having taken fairly long hikes the past three days, it was obvious that we needed to rest and just stroll.Our condo and other houses were scattered within a great grassland area that lies adjacent to the Teto

range. The country roads provided an easy walk with a great view of the mountains and picturesqueviews of farms, forests, fields and ponds.

After lunch, we droveinto the Park andtoured the area round the Visitors Center. In 1962, after thesummer season at Colter Bay, I worked for a month for the ParService transplanting trees from the forest to the then, newVisitors Center. And so I was able to enjoy the fruits of my laboso to speak, as we drove by the Center.We then visited the Chapel of the Transfiguration, an Episcopachurch built in 1925 and still in operation. Couples come here t

exchange vows with the TetonMountains as a backdrop, and true toform, preparations were underway fora wedding that afternoon. With thetemperature in the low 50's, we hopedthe bride and groom wore their longunderwear.

Chapel of the Transfiguration, Moose, Wyoming

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We walked down to the Snake River to Menors Ferry. The ferrywas a simple platform set on two pontoons. A cable strung acrossthe river kept the ferry from floating downstream, while allowing it tomove sideways. The pilot wheel was attached to a rope that

changed the angle of the pontoons toward the opposite bank. Thepressure of the current against the pontoons pushed the ferryboatacross the river in the direction the pontoons pointed.

A few yards from the bank at which the ferry, now a replica, was mytemporary quarters when I worked for the National Park Service.Of course nothing remains of those historic prefabs but there wasthe home of Maud Noble and the Menor General Store, the laternow in operation as a souvenir shop. Strangely, I recall noticingneither the home nor the store when I stayed that one month in October, 1962.

In the parking lot, Jared noticed two, old buses used by theGrand Teton Lodge Company for its sightseeing tours.

Looking for level groundon which to hike, wedrove to the north end ofJenny Lake and hikedalong String Lake toLeigh Lake.Each clearing along

String Lake brought into view anotherincredible vista: placid, perfectly smoothwater, almost black and opaque, goldencolored grass marsh, huge boulders,stately crags, and all against Mt.Teewinot with its gray rock and white streaks of snowas a backdrop.

We reached Leigh Lake and met a couple that were portaging their kayaksfrom Leigh to String Lake. Kathy and I recalled our expedition in the BoundaryWaters Canoe Area of northern Minnesota after we were married. It was awonderful experience, but now it seemed a great deal of effort that was notnecessary to enjoy the setting. A split-log bench did just as well.

Ferry in operation circa 1925

Tour bus for JLL Company

Sharing a park benchquietly

General Store at Menors Ferry

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Jared was proving to be the family chef. Kathy and I had intended to have Nicole and Jared prepare twof the seven dinners, but he decided the menu and cooked most of the evening meals, this Saturdaybeing curried chicken with carrots, potatoes and onions .

Until Saturday night, most the topics of dinner conversation were the activities and situation of everyonelife; but this evening, Nicole raised the issue of terrorism and the war in Iraq. Geo-political conflict is noNicoles major interest, and yet she asked a series of questions that, in my opinion, are too often ignoreor their answers assumed as known. Im fairly knowledgeable on these two topics, and I responded tomany of the questions as did Kathy and Jared. When Nicole made a statement at which Jared somewscoffed--a reaction that I too often have made but which I keep more in check as I get older--Nicole hadthe courage to call him on it. To Jareds credit, he didnt become defensive. These two children wereadults.

We had another, after dinner conversation on the same topic Monday evening, in the course of which Iwas asked why I had not served in Vietnam. I explained that I had been inducted into the Air Force in1963, and that the buildup of U.S. troops did not start until March 1965, to which Jared interjected that tU.S. had advisors in Vietnam as early as 1959. I wouldnt expect most people to know such a historic

fact, let alone someone born in 1982 and a graduate of an art school. When Jared was consideringcolleges during his senior year of high school, I had urged him to attend a liberal arts college and majorart so that he would gain a broader education. It has been obvious for sometime that art school (MarylaInstitute College of Art in Baltimore) met his artistic needs quite well, and now it was also obvious that hhad achieved a liberal education either from MICA and/or from his own initiative.

Sunday, September 24, 2006

Though the sun was shining, it was a cold, crisp morning with the temperature at 32

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Our raft trip terminated at the Visitors Center at the Moose Entrance, and we hadlunch at Dornans, a continuation of the commercial enterprise of Menors Ferrythat now includes restaurant, grocery store, gas station and souvenir shop.

Our next adventure was a bike ride in the area known as Antelope Flats. We metour guide, Walker, at the Visitors Center, and drove to a ranch in the area. Wewere outfitted with helmet, gloves, water bottle, and bicycle.

The first leg of the trip was a jarring ride on a dirt and gravel road that requiredone to maneuver around water puddles andavoid ruts while at the same time trying toview the scenery.

Our first stop was to view a herd of roamingantelope that were grazing. Walkerexplained that these antelope could achieve a speed of 60 miles phour, and so they were able to out run any predator given enough

time to reach their maximum speed. On the prairie, they couldusually spot approaching predators, but when they relocated out othe valley through the passes of Bridger-Teton National Forest, thwere vulnerable to attacks by wolves and mountain lions.

We then pedaled back past a house that was a faded pink surrounded by some dependent buildings.Some artists were painting the scene in the front yard. This place marked the start of Mormons Row, asettlement of homesteaders belonging to that faith that was established around 1900 but which is nowlargely abandoned. A few buildings have been restored including this barn which is often shown asrepresentative of Jackson Hole.

We finally hit hard pavement, and across the road observed a herd of buffalo.The was rutting season, and we witnessed two bulls jousting. Normally theseencounters last only a minute or two, but these combatants continued forseveral minutes. The cows seemed quite unconcerned, hardly looking up from

their grazing; but two other bulls came overto see the school yard fight, and obviouslythey were aroused as evidenced by theirraised tails. Still, they merely spectated.

Asked what sparks a joust, Walker answeredthat they are just testy at this time of year, and it usually is that one jgets in anothers space. We crossed over the main road and traveledown a side road adjacent to the grazing area and came to apicturesque pond at which a few buffalo were gathered. In a small

parking lot across the road, a few small pickup trucks and SUVs werparked with families perched on the hoods where they had settled foprolonged observation of the buffalo. A photographer had set his tripod inside the wood fence, and theinched forward. A few buffalo looked in his direction, but made no move towards him; still, had theycharged, he wouldnt have had time to retreat behind the fence.

Moulton Barn

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Walker explained that when a number of photographers approach a herd and form a line as they (thephotographers) tend to spread out, the buffalo sometimes sense that they are being surrounded in themanner in which predators such as wolves might do. Their inclination is to burst through the line, andneedless to say, anyone in their path is in danger.

Walker told us that the pond was fed my a warm spring, and that through the years, people have used as a swimming hole. Jared and I put our hands in the water, and indeed it was warm and clear; but wealso noticed rather large buffalo turds laying in the shallow water as well, and so the though of swimminin the pond seemed less appealing than first imagined.

We returned to the main road where we had to climb our one and only hill. Nicole, Jared, and Walkerclimbed swiftly and were soon out of sight. I changed to the lowest gear ratio, and though I had to peddfuriously, I steadily climbed the hill.

We reached the road that returned to our starting point. With a few pumps of the peddle, we could coaalmost the entire way, allowing ourselves to gaze at the surrounding vista.

Monday, September 25, 2006

We had done all the easy trails at the southern end of the Park, and so we choose to do some of theeasier hikes at the northern end, around Jackson Lake; besides, there were more grass and marsh landthat were picturesque and that afforded better chance of seeing moose.

We stopped along the highway at the Teton Lookout andtook some family photographs.

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Our first hike was to Christian Pond, just a half mile over a low ridWe then decided to hike to Emma Matilda Lake, but we couldntdetermine from the map which trail we were on, and there was sodiscussion as to how we should proceed.

We came to a rise where we saw water, and then Jared espied the highway, and we determined that wwere overlooking the Oxbow Bend of the Snake River: it was the most beautiful vista in the Park.

We returned by the road rather than the trail, which, while level, was a far longer walk. I was the onlyauthorized driver of the rental car, but I made a command decision by allowing Nicole and Jared to walkthe car and come back and pick us up.

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We lunched in a meadow next to the Oxbow Bend and then retiredto the lounge of Jackson Lake Lodge. I read, Jared dozed, andNicole and Kathy shopped for souvenirs for relatives and friends. hardly ever buy souvenirs for people; but I notice that women are

always thoughtful in this regard, and their recipients are alwaysappreciative. The last souvenir I bought was a bookmark in the foof a woven Turkish pattern in Istanbul for my boss Bob whose onlyremark was, I dont read books.

I informed the group that the next hike originated from the Lodge athat it was a self-guided tour. Obviously they felt that they had be

burned once too often, and interrogated me as to length, duration, degree of difficult, expected time ofreturn, etc. Dubious to a slight degree, we walked a short quarter of a mile up a hill that overlooked themarshland between the Lodge and Jackson Lake. Thankfully the self-guided trail met expectations, ansome of my credibility was restored.

We again returned to Colter Bay to hike to Heron Pond in order to see--what else--

herons, even though this specie is more likely to be seen in Virginia. Presented witha short route and a long route, we made the expected choice, failing to surmise theobvious, to wit, the path lay over a hill rather than around it. At the crest of the hill,Jared motioned us to halt and pointed to a grassy area only a few feet from the path:a female grouse. During our return, we encountered a male who proudly showed hisplumage, perhaps in difference to our female contingent.

We continued through the forest, watching for any wildlife, but I found myself singingthe little ditty from the Wizard of Oz: Lions and tigers and bears, Oh my!Thankfully we encountered a much smaller predator: a red tail fox. He was sittingnear the side of the path and looking straight at us. I thought that he would bolt anysecond as we continued to approach, but he challenged us to a game of chicken and he won: we veereoff the path and up a small hill. He must have paralleled our direction and was waiting for us when wereturned to the path, having encountered too many obstacles. We werent going to differ to him this timand when we came within twenty yards, he bolted across the path, along a log, and into the underbrush

It was about six-thirty in the afternoon, and everyone, especially Jared, wanted to return to LupineMeadows in the hope of seeing and hearing the bull elk we, sans Nicole, had seen on our first day. Wearrived at dusk, and charged along the path that ran in the woods but within sight of the meadow. Icouldnt maintain the pace, and I had to stop to use the mens room. I could hear the elk bugling, and sstepped the few yards down to the meadow thinking that I would see the elk and my family. I proceede

to walk parallel to the path but in the meadow.

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After about one hundred yards, I had seen neither (though I could hear the elk in the woods across themeadow) and decided to regain the path, and so ascended into the wooded hill. I climbed and climbedand climbed. It became obvious that the path had turned away. And now it was becoming quite dark. probably had only fifteen minutes of light, and then it would be pitch black. I knew enough not to make

matters worse, and so I descended in order to return by the meadowBut bush-wacking down hill is not as easy as bush-wacking up hill.Climbing down over a log is farther than climbing up and over log. Aplace to step up a hill is easy to see; a step down maybe hidden andcould result in a headlong plunge. I headed down rapidly and I starteto sweat. I could feel myself panicking. I stopped to calm myself.Initially I had descended rapidly in order to race back to the car beformy family so as not to appear foolish. No--too late for that. I neededproceed slowly so as to avoid injuring myself. Breaking a leg would me in trouble. Lions and tigers and bears, Oh my! I reached themeadow and walked what I thought was about the same distance ashad come. A short climb brought me to the path, and I reached justshort of the car park where I ran into Jared who obviously was worrie

about me. As we approached our car, the lights of another vehicle bore at us, and then ground to a haDid you find him? asked a fellow hiker. Year, hes back, said my wife. She was about ready to senout a search team for you. Well, I said, youre never too old to do something stupid.

Tuesday, September 26, 2006

Our shuttle from the car rental to the airport was scheduled to depart at 10:00am, and we arrived inJackson at 9:15am; a half hour to kill, so we decided to walk the town.

Through the arch of elk antlers of the town park, we studied the memorial to the towns citizens killed inwar. It was obvious that the cobblestone memorial had been built for a particular war as there was a labronze plaque along one side of the obelisk that listed the names of the fallen. As America continued tengage in wars, additional smaller plaques had been added that provided a visual representation to ourad hoc policy of sacrificing real people in the name of ethereal principles.

The sun was still blocked by giant fir trees, and with the temperature still in the low 30's, we sought themorning sun. Besides souvenir and clothing shops, the most numerous of storefronts are those of artgalleries, featuring photographs of the Tetons natural settings and those of animals. This type of art isanathema to Jared. While much of it is beautiful, it may be too perfect; its certainly is too repetitious

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We came to the Wort Hotel, an institution in Jackson that, for all its self-promoting, archival photographs and newspaper clippings prominently displayedin its hallway, still has the look and feel of a western-cowboy hotel, albeit one

that caters mainly to the well-healed cowboys. It wouldnt have surprised me tohave bumped into Vice-President Cheney in the lobby.

The lobby has a rather egregious anomaly: its staircase. Entirely out ofproportion and jutting immediately from the entrance to the second floor, itcrowds an otherwise stately yet warm and inviting lounge.

In addition to finely carved woodscapes, the major decorous element are the heads of large mammalsthe most impressive being that of a buffalo. Jared and I gazed at its enormity, and then Jared askedrhetorically to the effect, What would be the point of shooting thisanimal? I laughed with a shrug and replied that it certainly couldnt bethe challenge. I can understand the challenge of stalking an animal thatis difficult to locate and come into close proximity, though I still dontunderstand the desire to kill it; but as we had proven two days ago, onecould walk within fifty feet in plain sight of this animal and easily shoot it.Hardly a challenge nor an act of manly courage!

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We walked to the airplane and climbed the portable stairs. I turned for one more look at the mountainscould have been my last.

While the three of us returning to Washington Dulleshad a five hour layover in Salt Lake City, Nicole was tocatch her plane within a half hour. We ordered a quicklunch, then left Jared to hold our table while Kathy andI accompanied Nicole to her boarding gate.

I suppose all parents worry about their childrenregarding their success in the goals they have set forthemselves. Nicole and Jared have not chosen easyand safe paths as their parents did by taking clearlymarked trails in an organizational structure. These twoare relying on their pluck and their talent in professions

that expose them to definite rejection, are highlycompetitive with only a small percentage of highachievers, and little in the way of a financial safety net.I often feel helpless watching their struggle, and I can only marvel at their courage. I embraced Nicoleand said softly in her ear: Nicole, we are very proud of you. Her sparkling smile dissolved, and shebegan to tear as did Kathy and I.

Returning to the question posed at the outset of this trip, had I been haunted by ghosts? Did I look bacand think sadly of things that might have been? I certainly thought of the past, but I enjoyed thememories and embraced them for enriching my life. And now I had new memories with my family--thepeople that are the most important part of my life. Im so happy that we shared this magnificent placetogether.

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Appendix AFurther Update on Snake River Boat Accident in Grand Teton National Park

On Friday morning, June 2, 2006, at 10:53 a.m., Teton Interagency Dispatch Center received a phone

from the Grand Teton Lodge Company reporting that one of their scenic raft trip boats had tipped over the Many Moose area of the Snake River, one-half mile downstream of the historic Bar BC dude ranchTwelve passengers were spilled out of the raft and into the Snake River as the boat became lodgedagainst a root ball of a live tree that had recently flushed into that section of the river during spring run-oThe 15- passenger raft, carrying 12 people and one boatman, had launched earlier that morning to floaten-mile stretch of river within Grand Teton National Park.

Boatmen from four commercial float trip raft companies, who were in the vicinity at the time of theaccident, assisted in getting nine passengers out of the water and onto the riverbank. As previouslyreported, three people drowned in this accident: Elizabeth and John Rizas from Beaufort, South Carolinand Linda Clark from Shreveport, Louisiana. Park rangers, a Teton Interagency contract helicopter,Jackson Hole Fire/EMS, and Teton County Search and Rescue volunteers also assisted in the search arescue operation.

The section of the Snake River below Bar BC ranch braids into three narrow channels. The centerchannel, where the accident occurred, takes a slight curve to the right, making it challenging to get a cledownstream view until a boat has fully entered into the channels flow. A live tree had recently beenuprooted and flushed into this channel, where it was temporarily snagged on a submerged gravel bar. Ttree was swept away with the rivers flow by the following morning.

The force of the river current pushed the raft toward the tree, where it bumped into the exposed root baand became pinned by the current. The swift flowing water then pushed the boat up and into a verticalposition, leaving the passenger compartment facing the upstream flow. As the boat tipped onto its sidethe passengers fell into the water.

The Snake River is a natural, multi-channeled river with woody debris deposits and gravel bars scattereacross along the length of its route. Along the 25-mile river corridor from Jackson Lake Dam to the MooBridge, there are only four river landings, spaced several miles apart. Much of the river course lies remofrom any road access. The river current can be strong enough to push debris and load debris at riverbends or gravel bars.

The investigation of this boating accident is continuing. Statistic update: After further research intoprevious river accidents resulting from swimming, fishing, hiking, and boating activities it is estimatethat there have been 20 fatalities associated with recreation on the Snake River in Grand Teton NationaPark since record keeping began in the 1930s.

Posted: 6/6/2006