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TEAM THREE
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Topchic Permanent Haircolor
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Topchic Permanent Haircolor combines powerful optimum grey coverage shades with superior conditioning, shine and a pleasant fragrance
Key Benefits: Coenzyme Technology Color Equalizer System TRAP - 2,5,6-Triamino-4 Pyrimidinol Sulfate
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The Integrated Protect System is a combination of the patented:
Coenzyme Technology* neutralizes potentially harmful free radicals reducing oxidizing damage
Equalizer Polymer balances structural differences at the surface of the hair for more even color result and smoother hair with better combability
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Topchic Permanent Haircolor Formulation
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Determination of Color in mid-length and ends
Hair Analysis
Take swatch from the tableau, fan it and place at the clients hair, repeat until the correct shade level is determined
In case of uncertainty choose the darker strand
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Tips for accurately determining existing color and levels
Always use manufacturer’s swatch chart
Use a natural swatch for re-growth or new hair area
Determine natural level in the crown area of the head
Fan out the swatch, integrate into hair in mid-lengths and ends to determine existing shades
Hair Analysis
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Blueprint for Formulation
STEP 1: IDENTIFY THE EXISTING LEVEL OR LEVELS = XLUse swatches from the Color Tableau or Universal Shade Chart to determine the existing level (s). (It is essential to know the existing level and base shade (s), so a starting point can be determined and if the target color can be achieved in a single or double process)
STEP 2: DETERMINE THE TARGET LEVEL = ↕→Consider: Hair to be lighter, darker or maintain the same level, only adjusting the tone
STEP 3: DETERMINE THE TARGET COLOR = TCConsider: Fashion tones with gold or reddish tones or a natural brown tone (choose a desired shade)
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Blueprint for Formulation
STEP 4: DETERMINE NATURAL CONTRIBUTING PIGMENT = NCPFrom the NCP Chart, choose the NCP at target level. Decide whether you want to control or enhance the end result.
STEP 5: DETERMINE THE GREY PERCENTAGE = %Use the three categories of grey percentage, also consider whether the client prefers grey coverage or grey blending. When there is grey in the natural hair, the formula must contain a portion of the N-Series for optimum coverage.
NOTE: Step 1 & 2 determine the volume of Topchic Lotion needed Step 3, 4 & 5 determine the Topchic Shades needed.
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* When adding Blonding Cream
Target is ... H2O2
Darker than Base Level
Same Level or 1 level lighter than Base Level
2-3* levels lighter than Base Level
3-4* levels lighter than Base Level
3% -
(10 volume)
6% -
(20 volume)
9% -
(30 volume)
12% -
(40 volume)
Topchic Permanent Haircolor
Selection of Lotion
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Conventional Color1 Part Lotion + 1 Part ColorH2O2: 3% - 10 volume, 6% - 20volume 9% - 30 volume, 12% - 40 volume
Recommended Mixture – Full Head Application40ml – Topchic Lotion40ml – Topchic Shade
Process: 30 minutes no heat 20 minutes with open air system
Mixing
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Topchic Application
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Formulation Guidelines
Formulation can be broken down into 2 categories:
Natural Formulation
Fashion Formulation
Characteristics of Fashion formulation:
EASIEST formulation Diffusion of natural pigment ENHANCES end result Deposit or same level coloring
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Topchic Fashion Formulations
Formula Formula
XL 5 6TC 6KRNCP% 0
40ml 20 volume40ml 6KR
Color Balance ends w/6KR
XL 5 7TC 7KGNCP% 0
40ml 30 volume40ml 7KG
Color Balance ends w/7KG
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Topchic MIX Tones
Formula Formula
XL 5 6TC 6KRNCP% 0
40ml 20 volume20ml 6KR10ml RR Mix10ml KK Mix
Color Balance ends w/6KR
XL 5 7TC 7KNCP% 0
40ml 30 volume20ml 7K20ml KK Mix
Color Balance ends w/7K
Tips for Concentrates: Concentrates should not be used alone For additional Intensity in fashion shades Additional control in Highlift (P Mix only)
Product Usage: A maximum of 50% or 1/2 of the color formula can be substituted with a concentrate
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Formulation Guidelines
Natural Formulation
Characteristics of Natural formulation: Any time the hair is lightened, NATURAL PIGMENTS are diffused
ALL NATURAL haircolor is a form of brown containing varying dominance of yellow, red and blue
LIGHTENING the hair will contribute a warm tone to the end result
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Natural Contributing Pigment Chart
Natural Level Activating Pigment Controlling Color
2 Darkest Orange Green Ash, Ash Ash, A
3 Dark Dark Orange Green Ash, Ash Ash
4 Dark Orange Blue Ash, Ash Ash
5 Medium Orange Blue Ash, Violet Ash, MB, A
6 Light Orange MB, SB, A, NA, NP
7 Extra Light Orange MB, SB, A, NA, NP
8 Medium Gold (yellow-orange) SB, A, NA, NP
9 Light Gold A, NA
10 Extra Light Gold or * yellow possible A, P, V*
* Yellow may appear as the underlying pigment at level 10 after decolorization, in this case, use 10V (violet) as the controlling color toner
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Topchic Natural Formulations
Formula Formula
XL 5 7TC 7BNNCP - Orange% 0
40ml 20 volume20ml 7B20ml 7SB (MB, A, NA) may also be used Color Balance endsw/ 7BN
XL 6 8TC 8GBNCP – Med. Gold% 0
40ml 30 volume20ml 8GB20ml 8SB( NA, A) may also be usedColor Balance endsw/8GB
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Grey Formulation
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a) Natural hair with 50% grey hair
a) b) c)
b) Fashion shade on 50% grey hair
c) Fashion- + Natural Shade on 50% grey hair
Grey Coverage
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Grey Hair Amount
Topchic-Lotion
Amount
N-Shade
Amount
Fashion
Shade
up to 30%
up to 60%
up to 100%
40ml
40ml
40ml
15ml
20ml
25ml
25ml
20ml
15ml
Topchic Permanent Haircolor
Grey Formulation
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Conventional color (2-10)
30 Minutes no heat
20 Minutes with heat, open air processing, such as Olymp HairMaster
Processing time – Grey Coverage
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Resistant Grey
Topchic NN Series should be used in place of the N Series on resistant grey hair
Replace existing N shade, or a portion of, with NN shade on the same level. This gives a higher pigment concentration and therefore better grey coverage
A higher pigment concentration may cause the end result to appear slightly darker. An explanation should be given to the client in advance
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Pre-Softening for Grey StreaksMinimizes the contrast between grey area and the pigmented hair
10ml Distilled Water+
10ml N-Series at target level
Process 5-10 minutes, blot and start in these areas first
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Formula Formula
XL 6 6TC 6KGNCP% 50
20 volume 40ml6KG 20ml6N 20ml
Color Balance ends w/6KG
XL 4 6TC 6BKNCP% 20
30 volume 40ml6BK 15ml6MB 10ml6N 15ml
Color Balance ends w/6BK
Grey Formulation
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Formula Formula
XL 6 6TC 6KGNCP% 50
20 volume 40ml6KG 20ml6NN 20ml
Color Balance ends w/6KG
XL 4 6TC 6BNCP% 20
30 volume 40ml6BK 15ml6MB 10ml6NN 15ml
Color Balance ends w/6BK
Resistant Grey Formulation
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Pre-soften with 10 ml of distilled water and 10 ml of N-series
Use a brush application working across or against the hair shaft
Use N-series at the target level for optimum grey coverage
9N is the lightest N shade that will cover grey
When hair is oily or has heavy styling products; cleanse first, dry hair on a cool setting before application
Tips for Grey Formulation
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Triflective Naturals
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A desire for youthfulness, with your expertise that satisfies their needs
A purpose in mind: To cover grey hair, while maintaining or improving their overall appearance
Want to retain their youthfulness with a modern, natural color service
Triflective Clients
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Up to 100% grey coverage is fully desired
More natural type of coverage
Not as opaque, more reflective
Dimensional color with fashionable reflects
Lighter reflection that compliments their skin tone
Brilliant and shiny hair
TriFlective Naturals Consumer Needs
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TriFlective Naturals vs. N/NN-shades
TriFlective Naturals are final shade creations with a defined assortment
N and NN shades can be mixed with the entire assortment for ultimate variety
TriFlective Naturals provide a lively and shimmering color result, N and NN shades allow you to achieve also a more solid grey coverage result if desired.
TriFlective Naturals do not replace the existing N and NN shades but they are an extension of grey coverage service offer.
Depending on the clients wish the most suitable product can be chosen.