tc times may-june 2013

1The TC Times May - June 2013

TexTiles CommiTTee’s monThly CommuniCaTionVol 1, issue 4 may - June 2013

TEXTILES COMMITTEE1 9 6 3 - 2 0 1 3

years

com

mitt

ed to

the growth of Indian Textiles

TC Newsletter May 2013 Working for News.indd 1 23/07/13 4:17 PM


News & Events

Cover Story

Ginners’ Speak

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Indian Technical Textile Association extends to Coimbatore,

Textiles Committee enters into an MoU with Government of Kerala

Visit of Indian Delegation to Brussels for the India-EU Joint Working Group and Bilateral Meetings.

Star Rating of Ginning & Pressing Factories,

Program on Handloom Mark Scheme

Textiles Committee to formulate Textile Policy for Odisha,

Online Report Status Through LIMS

Lucknow Zardozi, Agra Durrie & Farrukhabad Prints of Uttar Pradesh get GI recognition

Review Meeting of Handloom Mark Scheme

Business meet on ‘Confedera business model at Karur

Secretary (Textiles), Government of India reviewed the activities of Textiles Committee

Workshop on Quality and Compliances for Wool Export

Development of Mandatory Standards For Textiles And Clothing in India: Status, Procedure And Way-Forward

Shri Anand Bhai Popat, Managing Director, Jalaram Cotton & Proteins Ltd., Rajkot, Gujarat,

Shri Ashok Agrwal, Managing Director, Mulchand Phulchand Krishi Udyog Pvt. Ltd, Jalna, Maharashtra

Contents

Editor: Mr. Ganesh Bangar, Assistant Director, EP & QA Division Associate Editor: Mr. S. Krishna Kumar, Field Officer, Market Research Wing

For your valuable comments & any queries please write to us at [email protected]



From The Secretary’s DeskTextiles Committee as a facilitator to the textile trade & industry, through its activities such as

testing, consultancy services, cluster development activities, market research studies, quality

appraisal of textile products, handloom mark scheme and assessment & rating of G&P units.

As part of keeping the stakeholders of the industry informed about these activities, Textiles

Committee is publishing a newsletter, The TC Times. The current issue covers the activities

undertaken by Textiles Committee for the last two months. This issue features a lead article

on a different subject which describes the development of mandatory standards for the Textiles & Clothing sector in India.

I am sure that this issue will be interesting to the readers.

(Dr P. Nayak)Secretary, Textiles Committee

Chairman’s MessageThe fourth issue of the Textiles Committee’s newsletter, The TC Times, is coming out with an

article of an interesting subject to the stakeholders of the textile industry, ‘the Status, Procedure

and Way-forward of Development of Mandatory Standards’ for the Indian Textiles and Clothing

sector. Textiles Committee has always been in the forefront of introducing new technology

into the system for the benefit of the industry in the country. The ‘Laboratory Information

Management System (LIMS)’ introduced by Committee is one such initiative of this kind. The

details of the LIMs are also featured in this issue.

I hope this issue of the Newsletter will be informative and interesting to the readers.

(S. P. Oswal)Chairman, Textiles Committee

Shri A.B. Joshi, Textile Commissioner exchanging pleasantries with Mr. Petros Sourmelis, who is leading the seventh EU-India Joint Working Group at Brussels.



News & eveNts

The inaugural function concluded with vote of thanks by SIMA Chairman Mr S Dinakaran.

Indian Technical Textile Association extends to Coimbatore

The Indian Technical Textile Association (ITTA) with 200

members based at Mumbai had opened its regional office

in the premises of The Southern India Mills’ Association in

Coimbatore on April 20, 2013. The inaugural function was

presided by CITI Chairman Mr S V Arumugam and the Chief

Guest of the function was Mr Sujit Gulati, Joint Secretary,

Ministry of Textiles. Guest of Honour was bestowed on Mr

uA B Joshi, Textiles Commissioner. Mr S Senthilkumar,

Vice-chairman of ITTA welcomed the dignitaries and

gatherings. ITTA Chairman Mr Mohan Kavire and SIMA

Chairman S Dinakaran delivered Special Addresses.

Textile Commissioner Shri A B Joshi, Guest of Honour

at the inaugural function said about 30 percent of the

requirement for Technical Textiles in India is now met

through Imports adding; around 3000 intentions for

Investment in the Sector have been registered so far.

With a market size of 60,000 crores, the sector has

recorded 11 to 12 percent growth in the last five years

and with domestic demand growing at a robust pace, it

should touch 18 to 20 percent in 12th Plan period, said

Shri Sujith Gulati, Joint Secretary, Ministry of Textiles. The

market for Technical Textiles is expected to cross Rs.1.5

lakh crore by 2016-17, he added.

The inaugural function concluded with vote of thanks by

SIMA Chairman Mr S Dinakaran.

20th April, 2013

TexTiles CommiTTee enTers inTo an moU wiTh GovernmenT of Kerala

Textiles Committee as part of its commitment to facilitate the Intellectual Property Rights Protection

of traditional products of the country is on the verge of signing a MoU with the Directorate of

Handlooms & Textiles, Government of Kerala. As per the agreement, Textiles Committee will extend

technical support to establish ‘Kerala Handlooms’ as a niche brand for the hand-woven products

of Kerala by Trade Mark registration and hence place it in the global map. Textiles Committee

has already placed four traditional handloom products of Kerala, namely, Balaramapuram Sarees

and Fine Cotton Fabrics; Kasaragod Sarees; Kuthampully Sarees; and Chendamangalam Dhoties

and Set Mundu on the GI map. Under the current MoU, Textiles Committee with its expertise

in Geographical Indications (GIs) and Trade Marks will register an exclusive Logo for Kerala

Handlooms.



May 28th -29th, 2013

An Indian delegation from the Ministry of Textiles visited Brussels during May 28-29, 2013 for

the Joint Working Group meeting and bilateral meetings on May 28 & 29, 2013. The delegation

comprised of Shri V. Srinivas, Joint Secretary (Exports), MoT, Govt. Of India; Shri A.B. Joshi, Textile

Commissioner; Dr. P. Nayak, Secretary, Textiles Committee;

Shri Vijay Mathur, Secretary General, AEPC and Shri

Siddhartha Rajagopal, Executive Director, TEXPROCIL. The

EU delegation was headed by Mr. Petros Sourmelis, Head of

Unit, Market Access, Industry and Raw Materials.

Some of the areas deliberated during the meetings are (i)

Cotton and cotton yarn export policy; (ii) two subjects on

the conformity assessment issues such as India’s Marking

and Labeling Regulation Order of 2003 and EU’s REACH

legislation; (iii) trade facilitation; and (iv) GSP benefits.

The delegation had a meeting with the representatives of

European Apparel and Textile Confederation (EURATEX) on

28th May 2013 on the sidelines of the annual convention of EURATEX. The EURATEX representatives

were joined by Eurocotton and Turkish Textiles and Clothing Exporters Association. The discussion

centered on compliance standards in Indian apparel industries, cotton yarn exports policy for 2013-

14. EURATEX welcomed the progress made in the “Disha” program and appreciated that the program

would be scaled up to cover 3000 factories in the 12th Plan period.

The Indian delegation held bilateral meetings with the senior officials of the EU along with their

respective Policy Officers on May 29, 2013. The issues covered in the discussions were (i) India’s

cotton and cotton yarn export policies, India achieving global competitiveness in textiles exports

and phasing out of export subsidies, both issues which had figured in WTO discussions; (ii) India’s

continued benefits under GSP and the guidelines that are to be put in place for GSP benefits from

2014-17 period; (iii) the modalities of technical assistance for enabling Indian apparel exporters to

improve compliance standards under REACH legislation; and (iv) the pace of growth of Indian textiles

industry and possible areas of collaboration in testing and laboratory standards for compliance.

The Indian delegation called on H.E. Ambassador Dinkar Khullar at the Embassy of India to the EU.

The meeting was also attended by DCM EOI Brussels Smt. Renu Sharma and Counsellor Commerce

EOI Brussels Ms. Nausheen J Ansari. The delegation briefed Ambassador of India on the progress

made in the Joint Working Group and the bilateral meetings.

Following the discussions, the roadmap for future engagement was identified as (a) review of India’s

textiles laboratories be taken up for testing azo-dyes and a comparative statement with criteria

prescribed under REACH may be drawn up; (b) paper on Technical Assistance for REACH will be

prepared by the Ministry of Textiles for sharing with European Union; (c) Given the potential for

expansion of Apparel Exports to EU in the backdrop of revival of demand in the EU markets, a

business to business forum between AEPC and representative associations in EU member countries

to be coordinated through the Embassy of India EU could be pursued; (d) The feasibility of cotton

fabric imports may be carefully assessed if relaxations are provided under the Marking and Labeling

Regulation Order of 2003.

visiT of indian deleGaTion To BrUssels for The india-eU JoinT worKinG GroUp and BilaTeral meeTinGs.

The delegation had a meeting with the representatives of

European Apparel and Textile Confederation (EURATEX) on

28th May 2013 on the sidelines of the annual convention of

EURATEX.



Ministry of Textiles has entrusted the work of assessment and rating of

modernized ginning & pressing factories to the Textiles Committee. The

Ginning and Pressing factories are assessed and Star Rated as per the

scheme on “Assessment and Rating of Ginning and Pressing Factories”.

The Star Rating awarded between single star to five star to a ginning &

pressing factory depends on type of machinery available, civil infrastructure

and quality of management practices followed.

The Technical Rating Award Committee (TRAC), which awards a specific

star rating to the ginning & pressing factory, in its 9th meeting held on 6th

June 2013, awarded Star Rating to 99 fresh assessed and 17 re-assessed

ginning & pressing factories.

The ginning & pressing factories are voluntarily coming forward for re-assessment to upgrade their star rating status, shows

their interest towards clean cotton production.

state no. of applications

Received

5 star 4 star 3 star 2 star 1 star single star (For

limited Period)

ProvisionallyRated units

Total no. of units Rated

Andhra Pradesh 156 5 20 22 88 6 7 5 153

Gujarat 340 7 26 88 87 11 79 25 323

Haryana 3 2 1 3

Karnataka 29 2 3 4 11 4 2 26

Maharashtra 322 5 24 64 100 31 51 32 307

Madhya Pradesh 50 2 6 18 4 6 7 43

Orissa 13 1 5 5 11

Punjab 11 1 1 1 8 11

Total 924 19 76 191 311 53 148 79 877

Star Rating of Ginning & Pressing Factoriesu

Program on Handloom Mark Scheme was conducted at University Institute of Fashion Technology and Vocational Development, Punjab University, Chandigarh on 4th April, 2013 by Weaver Service Center with active support of Regional Office, Textiles Committee, Panipat.u



Textiles Committee (TC), a statutory body, under the Ministry of Textiles, Govt. of India, was set up to promote quality in Textile Trade & Industry. TC provide services like Textiles Testing & Technical Services, Quality Appraisal of textiles & Export Promotion, Consultancy on ISO 17025 (QMS), 9000, ISO 14000, SA 8000, and Training to industrial & Educational institutes, through its vast network of 30 regional offices and 16 Laboratories scattered all over major textile clusters of India. The TC has, since then, been serving the textile industry and trade in the country with the objective of promoting quality with special emphasis to export sector.

TC always strives to be customer friendly and transparent in most of its activities. All 16 laboratories of TC are committed to the timely disposal of testing activities and also maintain the confidentiality of test results. Wherever required, the laboratories invite the customers to witness tests and have indisputably demonstrated the repeatability of test results. 9 of TC Laboratories are notified by DGFT for testing of import consignment received from different customs. The payment need to be made to TC by either importer or their agents towards testing fee. After receipt of payment the test results are forwarded to respective custom authorities. Laboratories of TC, in order to become more efficient in its routine activities, have initiated a pass book system wherein any customer can deposit certain amount as advance payment depending upon their volume of transactions. Test charges of a pass book holder will be deducted as soon as tests are over and the test report will be automatically forwarded to respective customs. This will reduce the effort of customers to wait till the test is over to ascertain and make the payment for further action.

Laboratories of TC, in order to become more transparent in its routine activities are implementing Laboratory Information Management System (LIMS). The Mumbai laboratory of Textiles Committee has already implemented LIMS and is now working on it. In this system samples received from any sources are registered on LIMS. Then the sample is taken for testing and for further action. Status of samples at any stage can be monitored by designated officials. Along with this, laboratory has also initiated a digital display of information related to receipt of sample, status of sample such as testing, dispatch, payment, etc. This information is helpful to the customer to know the status of the sample. This display system was inaugurated by Hon’ble Chairman of Textiles Committee, Shri S.P. Oswal on 8th May ’13 at Textiles Committee’s Sample Counter.

While inaugurating the new facility, the Hon’ble Chairman appreciated the efforts taken by the Textiles Committee. He urged Textiles Committee to be more customer friendly and linking of LIMS information on to Textiles Committee website. The Secretary, Textiles Committee Dr.P. Nayak and other members of the Committee also graced the occasion.

Hon’ble Chairman of Textiles Committee Shri S P Oswal inaugurating the LIMS Display facility

Online Report Status Through LIMS(from the date of Receipt of Samples to the Dispatch of Test Reports)u 8th May, 2013

TexTiles CommiTTee To formUlaTe TexTile poliCy for odisha

Textiles Committee has prepared a proposal on the “Roadmap for Development of Textiles Industry in Odisha” as

part of the efforts of the Government of Odisha to formulate a Textile Policy for the state. The proposal has been

submitted to the Government of Odisha and subsequently presented by Dr. P.Nayak, Secretary, Textiles Committee

to a group of senior officers of the state government, in the presence Smt Aparajita Sarangi, IAS, Principal Secretary,

Handlooms &Textiles, Government of Odisha on 13th June 2013, at the Conference Hall of the Directorate of

Textiles & Handlooms, Bhubaneswar. The H&T Commissioner accepted the proposal of the Textiles Committee to

formulate a Textile Policy for Odisha. As part of this project, a group of senior officers of the state government will

associate with Textiles Committee in the process of policy drafting. The proposed policy document will be submitted

to Government of Odisha by first week of November 2013.



Lucknow Zardozi, Agra Durrie & Farrukhabad Prints of Uttar Pradesh get GI recognition

Coupattia, Tambaku Mandi, Bibignaj, Zazirbagh, Ambarganj,

Yasingaj, Thakurganj, Musahebganj, Muftiganj, Hussainbad

Khadra, Dargah, Kazmain, Niwazganj, Baba Hazarabagh,

Gullu Ka Takia, Kakori, Malihabad, Nigohan, Mal, Bakshi

ka Talab, Rahimabad, Itaunga etc. The other places which

are more or less associated with the Zardozi activities are

Bababanki (Haidergarh) Hardoi (Sandila), Unnano (Mohan),

Sitapur (Sidhuli, Biswan, Misriksh and Laherpur), Sultanpur

(Musafirkhana), Kanpur, Khiri Lakhimpur (Lakhimpur urban)

etc.

A range of products are produced by the weavers in these

production centres. The products are scabbards for swords

and daggers, canopies, coats, caps, ghagras, covers for

boxes, combs and mirrors, umbrellas, fans, shoes, bags,

belts, saddle cloths, seat covers, carpets, bolsters, etc. and

a variety of other objects such as embroidered saris, suits,

dupattas and lehangas, Jackets, shirts, long skirts, and

longer scarves.

Zardozi as a technique is understood to be a distinctive style

of stitching as it differs from other traditions of embroidery

like kantha, kasuti, phulkari, etc. where the movement of the

threaded needle is guided by a variety of stitches. In other

embroideries silk, cotton or woolen threads are used, which

are pliable enough to move freely. However, in zardozi, the

Textiles Committee has extended technical support to the

state government for the registration of these products under

GI which involves preparation of the application, the statement

of case and its submission to the GI registry, defending the

case in the Consultative Committee meeting and preparing

compliance to the Examination Report.

The Lucknow Zardozi produced in the historical city of

Lucknow of Uttar Pradesh and the adjacent districts is

famous all over the country. The craft is not only providing

employment to about 2.50 lakh artisans but also people

from non- craft base are also earning their livelihood by

associating in the process of marketing of the product.

The number of non-artisan persons getting their bread and

butter from this craft is about one million. They are either

contractors, manufactures, retailers, raw material providers

or those employed by the manufacturers. Both urban and

rural folk of the region are largely depends on the activities

associated with the Zardozi craft. The places associated with

the production of Zardozi in Lucknow are Kashmiri Mohalla,

uThe well known products of Uttar pradesh namely, lucknow Zardozi, agra durries & farrukhabad prints have now been awarded the Geographical indication (Gi) recognition by the Geographical indication registry of the Government of india. The Gi registration is provided to those products which are manufactured in the territory of a region where a given quality, reputation or other characteristics of such products is attributable to its geographical origin. The registration of a product under the Geographical indications act (Gi act) helps a community of producers to differentiate their products from other competing products in the market and build goodwill around their products, which often fetches a premium price. for the consumers, the Geographical indications (Gis) are acting as a signaling device, which help them to identify the original and genuine products and protect them against counterfeit ones.

luCKnoW ZaRDosi



thread only acts as a binding medium, whereas the body of

the design is completed by laying varieties of metallic threads

in several shapes and forms along with beads, stones, beetle

wings, etc. The whole process is more indicative of appliqué

rather than embroidery. Thus it may be called metal appliqué.

This is further corroborated by the fact that zardozi always

get payments from amount of wire stitched on the cloth by

weight. They never use the word kadai, the Hindi word for

embroidery, instead refer to it as salme sitar eke kam ka

takna which means laying of the salma, sitara on the body

of the fabric.

Zardozi as a technique is understood to be a distinctive style of stitching as it differs from other traditions of embroidery like

kantha, kasuti, phulkari, etc. where the movement of the threaded needle is

guided by a variety of stitches.

The weaving of Agra Durrie is mainly centred on the Agra

district of UP. With the growing demand for the product, the

production has been extended to the neighbouring areas,

namely, Etmadpur, Khandauli, Shamshabad, Fatehabad,

Jagner, Kheragarh, Sainya, Achanera, Akola, Bichpuri,

Fatehpur Sikri, Barauli Ahir, Bah, Pinahat and Jaitpur Kalan.

A durrie is a flat woven pileless rug having a rich variety of

designs and colours. It is essentially a thick cotton woven

fabric meant for spreading on the floor. It is a weft-faced

fabric on both its sides as warp is completely covered by the

weft. In its simplest form it is made in plain weave and in

simple stripes in different colours running from side to side

or broken into rectilinear sections or with simple patterns in

single colour. The main products of Agra Durrie are Chindi

Durrie, Cotton/Hemp/Jute Durrie and Woolen Durrie. Agra is

known for natural vegetable dyes. In the past, many colours

were used in a durrie which were produced with natural

dyes. Maddar, which grows almost everywhere, was the most

important colourant of vegetable origin. Its root provided the

whole range of pinks and reds. Apart from Maddar other wild

vegetables, was the most important element of dying process.

Other natural elements used to make Dyes are turmeric root

(light yellow), pomegranate skins (darker yellow), rhubarb

(dark red and copper red), grass or kusa (green) and kikar

tree leaves (brown). These natural dyes were usually prepared

by the weavers in their home. However, presently most of the

weavers prefer to use mainly two or three colours and the

dyes used are synthetic direct dyes.

Specimen of GI Certificate

SAMPLE

aGRa DuRRie



The well known

Bhagalpur Silk of Bihar

has been registered

under the Geographical

Indications (GI)

Act 1999 by the

Government of India.

The technical support

for registering the

product under the GI

Act has been extended

by Textiles Committee.

Bhagalpur Silk is the

fifth product from

Bihar to be registered

under the GI Act after

Madhubani Paintings; Applique- Khatwa Patch Work; Sujini Embroidery

Work; and Sikki Grass Work. A logo for this product has also been registered

under the act.

The district of Bhagalpur of Bihar has been famous for its cottage industries

since long. Tussar Silk, dyeing, glassware etc. were some of the main

industries of the district. Bhagalpur, which is more famous for Silk, has been

a well known product of the place from time immemorial. Bhagalpur known

as Champa in the days of yore, produced abundantly Tussar and Mulberry

categories of silk. The industry enjoyed a royal patronage and silk, the best

in the world, was exported to the countries bordering the Mediterranean Sea

under the protection of royal troops. Then, it used to be exchanged for gold. In

the international market, Bhagalpur is specially recognized for the production

of silk furnishing, both heavy and light textures. Tussar spun out of different

stages/ wastes like Jhuri, Danti, Katiya, Balkal etc. are regional names used

for manufacturing silk fabrics. The Mulberry silk yarns of varied range are

also used here. The use of heavy coarse Jhari Tussar, Hand Spun Jattam

to finest filament yarn are used to produce the varieties like dress materials,

upholstery, scarf, stoles etc.

The silk weavers in the region are apt in blending the fine and coarser yarns

for producing quality silk fabrics. They are skilled to use cotton (fine to coarse),

Jute, Linen (flax), Viscose, wool, acrylic and polyester yarns in blending/ mixing

with silk yarns in producing silk blends and other varieties.

BHAGALPUR SILk GETS GEOGRAPHICAL INDICATION TAG

The industry enjoyed a royal patronage and silk, the best in the world,

was exported to the countries bordering the Mediterranean Sea under the

protection of royal troops.

Hindustan - April 30, 2013 Hindustan - April 30, 2013

Dainik Jagran - April 30, 2013



Farrukhabad in Uttar Pradesh is famous for the artistic and

intricate hand-block printing. In many cases, the printing

centres as well as its special methods and practices are

extinguished. Those that survived, on the other hand, appear

to have readily inducted modern innovations such as printing

tables, synthetic dyestuffs and new finishing processes into

their technique. Farrukhabad is a veritable treasure house of

traditional designs ranging from the classical butis (dots) to

the famous ‘Tree of Life’ to modern print. The butis are restful

even though sparkling when tinted in solid colours. Mango,

‘paisely’ as it is known in the West, is made in a vast variety of

shapes, and used in bold, medium and in even fine designs.

The artisans of Farrukhabad use a distinct production

process for producing block printing. The process starts with

the procurement of raw material. Fabrics are most important

raw materials of the textile printing. The traditional fabrics of

printing were fine cotton and silk. The fabric used for printing

is collected from across the country. The artisans are using

cotton fabrics of different qualities, silk fabrics, viscose and

different dyes for performing their artistic skills. Earlier the

artisans used natural dyes derived from plants, animals and

minerals in the process of printing. Normally, all the regions

use primary colours like yellow, blue, red and the combination

colours of those like brown, green and orange.

The artisans of Farrukhabad use two different procedures

for printing i.e. (a) Printing through Block and (b) Printing

through Screen. The block printing is the oldest and the

simplest method of printing. Because of its artistic and

decorative value and the purity and richness of colour

produced by it, the method is still used in many countries

in the world. The blocks used in this method are made of

several layers of common timber which are cemented

together and the portions to be printed are carved or raised

in relief on a thick block of wood. Metallic blocks such as ‘T’

japs are used for a special work in a Batik printing. Designs

with fine lines which are too fine to be cut on a wooden block

are made by inserting short pieces of copper stripes and pins.

For obtaining an overall design of coloured dots, a block like

instrument containing 10 to 40 needles is used. The fabric

is stretched over the printing table and fastened with small

pins (in the case of saris the pallu is printed first then the

border). The printing starts form left to right. The colour is

evened out in the out in the tray with a wedge of wood and the

block dipped into the outline colour (usually black or a dark

colour). Colour in the form of a thickened paste is applied to

the raised parts of the block and the impression of the design

is obtained by stamping the block by hand with a wooden

mallet (or hammer) on the cloth to be printed. Since the block

has to be lifted and stamped on to the cloth repeatedly, its

size as well as weight should not be unduly excessive so that

it can be manipulated easily. Each fresh portion of the cloth

has to be printed by a separate application of the block and

the successive impressions have to be adjusted accurately to

the block and in very large patterns, each individual colour

may require more than one block. Thus in a design called

‘Dutch Bouquet’ which has 23 colours in it, 126 blocks are

used for printing the design.

These traditional textile products of the country are national

heritage and socio-culturally related to the stakeholders of the

products and also to the consumers. It is also contributing

immensely to the economic development of the artisans

associated in the process of production and marketing of

the products. The legal protection through GI registration

will provide much needed protection against infringement

and provide ownership rights as well. At the same time,

the protection will also make the consumers secure from

infringed products.

The block printing is the oldest and the simplest method of printing. Because of its artistic and decorative value and the purity and richness of colour produced by it, the method is still used in many

countries in the world.

FaRRuKhaBaD PRinTs



A review meeting of the Handloom Mark scheme was

convened by the Development Commissioner (Handlooms)

on 16th April 2013 at New Delhi. The meeting reviewed the

physical and financial performance of the Scheme during the

11th Five Year Plan and also during the financial year 2012-

13. In the meeting, the Director (EP & QA) informed with

the help of statistics that the Scheme is performing well and

progressing as per the planned targets in terms of registration

and the label sales. The strategies to be adopted for the

promotion of the Scheme during the 12th Plan period was

also discussed and finalized. Some of the main activities to

be taken up during the 12th plan period are:

n Engaging professional advertising agencies for creating

publicity in an effective manner, as major part of the

budgetary provision is allotted for publicity measures. The

publicity campaign organized through these professional

agencies will comprise media plan for print and electronic

media at strategic locations such as railway stations, bus

stations, trains, buses, airports and for promotional events

like fashion shows, cultural events and other means of

publicity.

n Exploring the possibility of utilizing the Handloom Expos SASMIRA’S INSTITUTE OF MAN-‐MADE TEXTILES ‘SASMIRA’, Sasmira Marg, Worli, Mumbai 400 030

Tel: 022-‐24935351, 24935352, 24918201. Fax: 022-‐24930225 e-‐mail: [email protected]

Sasmira/SIMMT/DMTC /2013 13th May, 2013.

To,

Dr. P. Nayak, Member Secretary, Textiles Committee, Government of India, Ministry of Textiles, P. Balu Road, Prabhadevi, Mumbai – 400 025.

Sub: Report on the Union Budget 2013.

Dear Sir,

I acknowledge the receipt of Textiles Committee Monthly Communication “The TC Times” February – March 2013 issue. The article on Report of Union Budget 2013 has aptly analysed the attempts made by the Ministry to revitalise the textile sector and has also suggested appropriate interventions to be made in order to meet the expectations.

This report is informative which will be shared with the students thereby updating their understanding about our Textile Industry. I am thankful to you for forwarding a copy to me.

Looking forward to your support and co-‐operation in all future endeavours.

Thanking you,

Yours faithfully,

ANAND P. MODGEKAR Head, Textile Chemistry Dept. SIMMT, SASMIRA. Mobile-‐ 9869 210 958.

Review Meeting of Handloom Mark Schemeu 16th April, 2013

FeeDBaCK

organized across the country under Market Incentive

Scheme as one of the major platform for creating publicity

of Handloom Mark Scheme. The State Handloom

Departments, Apex Societies, Weavers Service Centers,

NHDC etc who are organising Handloom Expos under

Market Incentive Scheme will advise the participants to

display only handloom products duly fixing the handloom

mark labels and monitoring the use of labels on the

handloom products.

n The Handloom Mark Labels will be distributed at free of

cost to the organizers to enable the participants to affix

the labels on the handloom products and popularize the

Handloom Mark Scheme among the public. The Cluster

Development Executives of the handloom clusters will be

asked to actively promote the Handloom Mark Scheme in

all their Handloom promotional activities and events.

n Linking the Handloom Mark Scheme with other Schemes of

the office of the Development Commissioner (Handlooms)

to encourage display of promotional material / signboards

at retail outlets, licensing system for bulk users, sticker /

fusing type labels etc.



A business meet on ‘Confedera business model - a tool for

improving competitiveness factors in Home textile MSME

units’ was organized by Karur Textile manufacturers and

exporters association (KTMEA) at

the KTMEA Hall on 27th March

2013. The objective of the meet

was to create awareness on

the ‘Confedera or consortium

business model’ for the textile

MSME units, that consolidates

their capacities, functions,

processes and services into a

single requirement and enables

them to function like a single entity

without losing their individual

identity for gaining cost, differential and niche advantages.

It is felt that the present day business environment is not

conducive for the Micro, Small and Medium Enterprises/

MSME units to do business in isolation without a proper

support system. The unstable prices of raw material, power

shortage, non-availability of skilled man-power are some

of the main causes that make the manufacturing units

uncompetitive. Being small, they are not able to handle big

orders and hence big customers avoid them. The increasing

new compliance requirements from customers abroad also

create additional expenditure to these units. The lack of R &

D results in the MSME units adopting the ‘Cut, Make & Trim’

methodology, which doesn’t fetch good margins. In order

that the MSMEs take advantage of the various competitive

factors like cost, size, compliance and value addition – a

support system in the form of a ‘Confedera’ or a consortium

would help in leveraging the power of federated cooperation

of MSME units in all areas of business functions provided,

they are willing to work together.

Through this confedera model,

the MSME units will be brought

under one advanced planning

and scheduling system of

order inflow for better capacity

utilisation. It will consolidate the

procurement of yarn, fabric, trims

& packaging material for gaining

bulk advantage on price. Increase

in productivity is achieved through

sustained training, improvement in workplace conditions and

application of Information Technology. Normal and high-

speed lanes are set in the production process for improved

price realisation. The confedera will also involve designers

from abroad to develop collections according to the season to

mobilise orders. This support system will also foster various

government schemes for their benefits in market development,

technology up-gradation, prototype development centre etc.

Textiles Committee extended technical support to the business

meet which was inaugurated by Shri. N. Rajasekaram,

Chairman of CII (Karur Chapter). Shri. D. Dhandapani,

Deputy Director, Textiles Committee and Shri. G. Venugopal,

Cluster Development Executive, Textiles Committee were the

two resource persons in the programme.

Business meet on ‘Confedera business model at karuru 27th March, 2013

The unstable prices of raw material, power shortage, non-availability of skilled man-power are some of

the main causes that make the manufacturing units

uncompetitive.

Shri D. Dhandapani, Deputy Director during his special address. Sampath Kasirajan during his presentation



Secretary (Textiles), Government of India reviewed the

ongoing activities of the Textiles Committee on 1st May 2013

at New Delhi. Senior Officers of the Textile Ministry and

Textiles Committee were present during the review meeting.

The major focus area of the review was the Government

Schemes implemented by Textiles Committee specially the

Handloom Mark Scheme.

hanDloom maRK sChemeAs the main objective of the scheme is to create a brand

value and secure a niche market thereby ensuring a decent

earning to the weavers with an year-long and continuous

work flow, it was decided the continuance of the scheme in

the twelve plan also with the following:

(a) Exploring the possibility of carrying out bar-coding on the

handloom mark labels;

(b) Hiring of a professional agency for development of a

media plan for better execution of the publicity measures

and visibility;

(c) All Weaver Service Centres (WSC) to erect Hoardings of

handloom mark;

(d) Ensure mandatory use of the labels by the handloom

societies/individual handloom weavers participating in the

government sponsored exhibitions;

(e) The Indian Institute of Handloom Technology (IIHT) to

impart training on the handloom mark scheme. Textiles

Committee officers, wherever available, to participate in

the handloom mark training programme at IIHT;

(f) Handloom Export Promotion Council to arrange and

provide an exclusive stall to Textiles Committee free of

cost for publicity of the handloom mark scheme invariably

in all overseas exhibitions and Buyer Seller Meets (BSM)

in order to provide visibility to the foreign buyers;

(g) Pooling the funds available with other programmes for

publicity for synergy and effective utilization.

sTaR RaTinG oF GinninG & PRessinG FaCToRiesTextiles Committee has so far assessed 707 Ginning factories

and is planned to assess more than 200 units in the current

year under the scheme for star rating of Ginning and Pressing

factories. The Global Cotton Conference has conferred

‘Excellence Awards’ to Textiles Committee for promoting

excellence in cotton through Star Rating Scheme. In order

to bring vibrancy into the scheme, it was also decided to

(a) organize more awareness programmes to increase the

visibility so that high rated factories receive premium price

for their cotton; and (b) bring the scheme to the notice of

foreign buyers.

inTeGRaTeD sKill DeVeloPmenT sCheme (isDs)Textiles Committee has been implementing the scheme by

imparting training on the “Textiles Committee Certified Quality

Professionals”. 4500 industry personnel were proposed to

be trained over the period of five years. The scheme is now in

its third year of operation. So far 1094 personnel have been

trained. Regarding ISDS Secretary (T) desired to focus more

on industry personnel and employability. Joint Secretary has

advised to restructure the scheme considering the objectives

to train more industry personnel.

Secretary (Textiles), Government of India reviewed the activities of Textiles Committee

u1st May, 2013

Textiles Committee has so far assessed 707 Ginning factories and is planned to assess more

than 200 units in the current year under the scheme for star rating of Ginning and Pressing factories.



ClusTeR DeVeloPmenT PRoGRammeRegarding the Cluster Development Programmes, it was

decided that (a) an implementation model in the line of

Shantipur Cluster of West Bengal to be developed by Textiles

Committee so that similar action could be initiated by other

clusters in the country; (b) the Dye House, Effluent Treatment

Plant (ETP) and Common Facility Centre (CFC) of the Bijnore

cluster of Rajasthan to be inaugurated for operation at the

earliest.

TexTiles TesTinG seRViCesLaboratory Information Management

Systems (LIMS) has been established

by Textiles Committee at Mumbai

and is planned to extend to all the

17 laboratories within a period of 4

months. The LIMS is aimed at providing

quick service to the customers. The

Registration Evaluation and Assessment

of Chemicals (REACH), a new

compliance standard brought in by

EU has affected the exports for non-

availability of adequate test facilities in

India. Textiles Committee has developed

test methods for 5 phthalates and 5

banned amines under REACH besides

formaldehyde. Textiles Committee

is also planned to (a) increase the

customer base; and (b) to publicize the

laboratory services in all domestic and

international exhibitions.

exPoRT PRomoTion anD QualiTy assuRanCe seRViCesExport Promotion and Quality Assurance (EP & QA) division of

Textiles Committee has been issuing 75% of the Generalised

System of Preferences (GSP) and Certificate of Origin (Non

Preferential) for the textiles sector. EP & QA Division of

Textiles Committee has been accredited as per ISO 17020

standard by NABCB (National Accreditation Board for

Certification Bodies & Inspection Bodies) and providing its

third party inspection services to the industry including some

foreign countries. Classification of textiles and textile material

in Harmonization Coding System (HS Classification) is the

forte of the Textiles Committee and is the only organization

to providing such services in India. Textiles Committee has

been assigned development of HS lines for the technical

textiles (specialty fibers). In this regard, 272 subheadings in

respect of technical textiles have been developed and sub

group has been submitted in the Ministry of Textiles.

Secretary (Textiles) desired that parallel work should be

carried out along with DGFT, Ministry of Commerce on the

finalisation of HS lines developed by the Textiles Committee

for the specialty fibers.

ToTal QualiTy manaGemenT seRViCesTextiles Committee has been providing

Total Quality Management services in

ISO 9000, ISO 14000, SA8000 and

other compliance related consultancy.

More than 650 units have been certified

through the consultancy of the Textiles

Committee; the single largest in India.

Textiles Committee also extended

training to more than 17500 personnel

of the industry in understanding the

quality and infusing quality culture to

the Industry. The Ministry, Office of the

Textile Commissioner and Texprocil are

some of the clients for implementation

of ISO 9000 system management

standards.

maRKeT ReseaRCh seRViCesTextiles Committee has developed a

Compendium of Non-Tariff Barriers

(NTBs) by countries and by products.

Action will be taken to revise this

compendium on the basis of the inputs

received from the Capacity Building Programmes which

are planned to be organized across the export centres in

the country. The first NTB capacity building programme

was conducted in Delhi and another 9 programmes will be

organized this year with the support of Export Promotion

Councils.

The report ‘National Household Survey: Market for Textiles

and Clothing’ will be put on the web-portal for online

availability to the users in the near future. In order to restrict

the import of counterfeit products into the country, Textiles

Committee will submit the details of the products registered

under the Geographical Indications (GI) Act to the office of

the Director General of Foreign Trade (DGFT) and Customs.

The report ‘National Household Survey: Market for Textiles and Clothing’ will be put on the web-portal for online availability to the users in the near

future.



Textiles Committee in association

with Central Wool Development

Board (CWDB), Wool Research

Association (WRA) and Indian

Woollen Mills Federation (IWMF) have

organized a workshop on “Quality and

Compliances of Wool” at Hotel Fortune

Park Klassik, Ludhiana on 15th May

2013. The objective of the workshop

was to discuss and deliberate issues

on the quality of wool and woolen

products for export purposes and

also to create capacity of the industry

to understand compliance issues for

export. The workshop was attended

by stakeholders of the industry and

representatives of research and

development organisations of the wool

industry.

Ms Monika S. Garg, Jt. Secretary

in the Ministry of Textiles, Govt of

India chaired the workshop as the

Chief Guest. Ms Mridula Jain, Vice

Chairperson of the Shawl Club and Shri

Virendra Sharma, President, Oswal

Woollen Mills, Ludhiana attended the

workshop as the representatives of the industry. Besides,

Shri M. K. Bardhan, Director, Wool Research Association,

Shri Mahesh Sanil, Executive Director, Wool Industry Export

Promotion Council also attended the workshop and made

their presentations on issues relating to development of

research in wool testing and on the compliance requirements.

Shri Kartikay Dhanda, Director (Lab), Textiles Committee

presented the laboratory facilities available in India specially

focusing on laboratory services provided to industry in

Ludhiana. Dr P. Nayak, Secretary, Textiles Committee and

Shri K. K. Goyal, Executive Director,

CWDB coordinated the programme.

The Chief Guest, Ms. Monika S. Garg

in her interaction with the stakeholders,

opined that since the international

business is undergoing significant

transformation in terms of business

environment and methods, it is necessary

to remain updated on those issues to

remain competitive. She informed the

stakeholders that in view of the depressing

tariff levels, the major trading partners of

India are instituting non-tariff barriers

to restrict their markets. These barriers

many often create major impediments to

our exports than the tariff restrictions. It

is, therefore, necessary to be compliant

with the non-tariff measures to remain

competitive in the global market. In this

regard, she informed the House that

Textiles Committee is planning to organise

Capacity Building Programmes on Non-

Tariff Barriers in nine export centres of the

country including Ludhiana. The booklet

on “Demystifying Non-Tariff Barriers”

published by the Textiles Committee is a

useful source of information for the industry in this regard.

The Compendium of Non-Tariff Barriers compiled by the

Textiles Committee would be revised on the basis of the

feedback received from the industry and be made a useful

document for preparing ourselves to become compliant to

the real non-tariff measures.

After detailed deliberations, it was decided that there would be

regular interaction programme between Textiles Committee,

industry and other organizations to evolve strategies on

The objective of the workshop was to

discuss and deliberate issues on the quality of wool and woolen products for export purposes and also to create capacity of the industry to understand

compliance issues for export.

Workshop on Quality and Compliances for Wool Exportu 15th May, 2013



issues such as (i) upgrading laboratory facilities matching

with the requirements of the modern day; (ii) strengthening

the Textiles Committee Laboratories at Ludhiana and Jaipur

to offer best services for wool testing; (iii) drawing a special

program by Textiles Committee along with WRA to train

man power under the Integrated Skill Development Scheme

(ISDS) to bridge the gap of technical man power availability

to the industry; (iv) Organizing industry capacity building

programmes on Non-Tariff Barriers (NTB) so as to help

the industry to comply with the emerging barriers to remain

competitive in the international market; (v) Creating a brand

for Indian Woollen products and to those who have developed

brands are to be supported from the Market Development

Assistance (MDA) and other such schemes already available

in Ministry of Commerce and Ministry of Textiles; and (vi)

to enhance the trade facilitation issues, the industry and the

Government would work together with synergy.

The workshop was attended by more than 130 delegates

from the industry and from research fraternity. Ludhiana is

the largest production centre of wool and acrylic yarn in the

country with more than 11000 units, provides employment to

more than 2.5 lakhs with a total a turnover of Rs.15000 crores.

The industry representatives appreciated the initiatives taken

by Textiles Committee and sought similar capacity building

programs in the future.

Textiles Committee convened its 111th Management Committee Meeting on 8Th May 2013 to discuss & deliberate issues related to organization & trade



COveR stORY

development of mandatory standards for Textiles and Clothing in india:Status, Procedure And Way-Forward

Technical Barriers to Trade (TBT): A Global Perspective

TBTs have come to the fore in recent years due to increasing

globalization and the relative decline in traditional tariff

measures. Today, standards-related measures (standards,

technical regulations, and conformity assessment procedures)

play a critical role in shaping the flow of international

trade. While tariffs still constitute an important source of

distortions and economic costs, the relative role of tariffs in

shaping international trade has declined due to large part to

successful rounds of multilateral tariff reductions in the WTO

and its predecessor, the General Agreement on Tariffs and

Trade (GATT 1947). With these declines in tariffs, the role

of non-tariff barriers in international trade has become more

prominent.

The WTO agreement on Technical Barriers to Trade clearly

recognizes that international standards can contribute in

improving efficiency of production and facilitating the conduct

of international trade. They serve as an important function

in facilitating international trade, including by enabling small

and medium-sized enterprises (SMEs) to obtain greater

access to foreign markets. They also enable governments to

pursue legitimate objectives such as protecting human health

and the environment and preventing deceptive practices.

Standards-related measures also play a vital role in enabling

greater competition by conveying information to producers

and consumers about the characteristics or performance

of components and end products they purchase from a

wide variety of suppliers. These measures also enable more

widespread access to technical innovations. Standards-related

measures can offer particularly pronounced benefits to SME’s

from this perspective. Uniform standards and product testing

procedures established under a common set of technical

requirements that producers can rely on in manufacturing

components and end products, can facilitate the diffusion of

technology and innovation, contribute to increasing buyer-

FiG a: memBeRs ThaT mosT FReQuenTly launCh TBT sTC’s

Oth

ers

4.6

18.23

306

76 6945

8738 59

27 26 25

EU USA BRAZIL Canada China India SouthKorea

Australia Indoneisa Vietnam0

50100150200250300350

FiG B: memBeRs ThaT mosT FReQuenTly FaCe TBT sTC’s

by Ms. Deepti Lahane

Ms. Deepti Lahane, MBA (Marketing and International Business) Research Associate, Market Research Wing, Textiles Committee, Mumbai

(The views expressed by the author are purely personal and in no way reflect the official position of Textiles Committee to which the author is presently affiliated)



seller confidence, and assist SMEs to participate in global

supply chains. Conversely, outdated, overly burdensome,

discriminatory, or otherwise inappropriate standards related

measures can reduce competition, stifle innovation, and

create unnecessary obstacles to trade. Even when standards-

related measures are used appropriately, firms – particularly

SMEs can face significant challenges in accessing information

about, and complying with, diverse and evolving technical

requirements in major export markets. The following graph

depicts the ten most active members raising specific trade

concerns (STC’s) in WTO TBT committee. As is clearly seen

European Union and The United States of America lead the

list (Refer Fig A).

200177

53 52 50 49 39 38 31

EU USA Japan EU China Mexico South Korea

Australia Argentina EU

150

100

50

0

150

FiG a: memBeRs ThaT mosT FReQuenTly launCh TBT sTC’s

Source: IFN Working Paper No.960, 2013: In the Shadow of the DSU; Addressing specific trade concerns in the WTO SPS and TBT Committees, Henrik Horn, Petros C. Mavroidis and Erik N. Wijkström, Research Institute of Industrial Economics, Sweden.

Oth

ers

4.6

18.23

306

76 6945

8738 59

27 26 25

EU USA BRAZIL Canada China India SouthKorea

Australia Indoneisa Vietnam0

50100150200250300350

FiG B: memBeRs ThaT mosT FReQuenTly FaCe TBT sTC’s

Source: IFN Working Paper No.960, 2013: In the Shadow of the DSU; Addressing specific trade concerns in the WTO SPS and TBT Committees, Henrik Horn, Petros C. Mavroidis and Erik N. Wijkström, Research Institute of Industrial Economics, Sweden.

measuRes iniTiaTeD FRom 1-4-2010 To 31-3-2013

1Q2

Safeguard

2010 2011 2012 2013Q3 Q4 Q1 Q2 Q3 Q4 Q1 Q2 Q3 Q4 Q1

10

100

1000

Countervailing Antidumping

Technical Barriers To Trade Sanitary and Phytosanitary

Source: http://i-tip.wto.org/Forms/GraphView.aspx

measuRes iniTiaTeD FRom 1-4-2010 To 31-3-2013

1Q2

2010 2011 2012 2013Q3 Q4 Q1 Q2 Q3 Q4 Q1 Q2 Q3 Q4 Q1

10

100


On the other hand shown in Fig B is the graph that depicts

the top ten countries that most frequently face specific trade

concerns in WTO TBT committee. Although European Union

dominates here as well but majority of eastern nations also

come into picture:

The following graph shows the trend of Non -tariff measures

adopted by WTO member countries:

In comparison to the WTO member countries, India has not

been able to develop technical regulations at the same pace

as depicted below:

The numbers of TBT notifications have consistently

increased during last five years, as also the modifications

done to the introduced notifications. It is clearly seen that the

trend has changed from tariff barriers to non-tariff barriers

in international trade. It is necessary for India to develop

certain stringent technical regulations in order to protect and

promote the T &C sector.



arising out of disposal of packaging material such as

recyclability.

n marking and labeling requirements: labeling needs

to include ingredients, intended use and shelf life. For

example: CE marking

n administrative provisions: inspection, testing, certification

and approval from competent authorities.

prodUCT sTandards

n For products, standards that contain specifications are

the most common; they cover the requirements for a

material or product in a comprehensive manner. These

specifications provide a complete guidance for producing,

processing, selling, purchasing and using the product.

They may also include requirements for dimensions,

performance, packaging, labeling, methods of sampling

and test methods.

050 51 52 53 54 55 56 57 58 59 60 61 62 63

100000

200000

300000

400000

500000

600000

IMPO

RT V

ALU

E

HS-CODE

700000

800000

900000 2008

2009

2010

2011

2012

Source: Calculations done on data reported by ITC, Geneva


0

500

1995 1996 1997 1998 1999 2000 2001 2002 2003 2004 2005 2006 2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012

1000

1500

2000

2500

Noti�cations Addenda/Corrigenda

Need for developing standards:

a. To rationalize quality issues in textile trade

b. To tackle the consistent increase in import of T&C products

c. To improve the competitiveness of domestic producers in

international market

d. To address issues pertaining to environment, fair trade,

fulfillment of social objectives etc.

TeChniCal reGUlaTions/sTandards enCompass The

followinG imporTanT aspeCTs:

n Product characteristics: Dimensions, Design criteria,

Performance criteria, Materials used

n Process and production methods: when they affect the

safety and health requirements of the product

n Packaging: to ensure that the product arrives intact at

its destination and may also include environmental issues



idenTifyinG exisTinG indian Bis

sTandards and ClassifyinG The

sTandards:

The national standards forming

body in India is the BIS. There are

about 1135 voluntary standards

developed by BIS for the T&C

sector. Out of these are about

636 product related standards,

328 methods of test, 33 codes

of practice, 57 terminology,

11 dimensions and 70 in others. A detailed description is

available on the BIS website-http://www.bis.org.in/sf/pow/txd.

pdf

linKinG These sTandards To 6 diGiT hs Code:

It was a tedious task to link the HS code at 6 digit to the

available standards by BIS. Not only the end user had to be

considered but also the fact that the existing standards by

BIS give a wide view of the situation but our aim is to arrive

at precise standards for crucial products. About 143 IS

standards have been linked to the HS product line.

sTUdyinG The speCifiCaTions of The linKed sTandards:

All the specifications of these 143 standards have been

thoroughly studied to improve/alter the same. The IS

standards are available both for product specification

standards, physical methods of test and chemical methods of

test. To prepare a comprehensive specification it is essential

to streamline the product specifications, physical methods of

test and chemical methods of test in to one precise standard.

At the same time keeping in mind that our own industry will

have to be ready to abide by these standards.

The specifications are further

classified into three categories:

a. Obligatory requirements-

essential characteristics

needed to ensure the

usefulness of a product

b. Optional or recommendatory

requirements-which help to

improve the serviceability of

a product

c. Informative requirements-necessary to make the

consumer aware of the contents of the product

n International standards forming organizations issue new

product standards or revise older ones to keep pace

with market requirements and changing technologies.

With new technologies emerging in the textile industry,

new standards need to be in place and should be made

mandatory. In India, the surge in import of few products

over last few years has been exceptionally high; to counter

this surge in imports and to rationalize the quality issues

in textile trade we need to introduce product standards.

These standards would also contribute towards making

our domestic producers internationally competitive. The

following is a graphical representation of the import

figures of India from the world for T&C for last 5 years (in

USD 1000)

Analysis and classification of BIS developed standards

sTUdyinG The world wide sCenario in mandaTory

TexTile sTandards:

Almost all the developed nations have some or the other

technical regulations in T&C products to restrict the amount

of imports and using Non-Tariff Barriers rather than tariffs

in order to do so. Majorly the mandatory standards exists in

the segments of baby clothes, technical textiles, products

with direct skin contact like apparels and home textiles like

curtains, bedspreads, textile wall fabric etc.

International standards forming organizations

issue new product standards or revise older ones to keep pace with

market requirements and changing technologies.

sr.no. desCripTion no. of

sTandard

1 Product related standards 636

2 Methods of test specific standards 328

3 Codes of Practice 33

4 Terminology 57

5 Dimensions 11

6 Other 70

Total 1135



s. no hs Code desCripTion of prodUCTs imporT valUe 2012 inTo

india in 1000 Usd

Top exporTers To india

1 500720 Other woven fabrics of silk (silk content 85% or more)

69369 China, USA, Italy

2 500790 Other woven fabrics of silk or of silk waste

3735 China, USA, Republic of Korea

3 510129 Other degreased wool (not carbonized; not carded or combed)

77014 Australia, New Zealand, China

4 540210 High tenacity yarn of polyamide filaments

83963 China, Germany, USA

5 540233 Textured yarn of polyester filaments 49907 Republic of Korea, China, Indonesia

6 590320 Textile fabrics impregnated, coated, covered with polyurethane

65401 China, Republic of Korea, Italy

7 590390 Textile fabrics impregnated, coated, covered with other plastics

140381 China, Republic of Korea, China

8 590310 Textile fabrics impregnated, coated, covered with polyvinyl chloride

115220 China, Chinese Taipei, Turkey

9 550320 Polyester staple fibers, not processed for spinning

42760 China, Republic of Korea, Chinese Taipei

10 540410 Synthetic monofilament of 67 decitex or more

17421 China, Germany, USA

11 540269 Multiple or cabled yarn of polyester filaments

9329 Republic of Korea, China, Vietnam

12 560811 Made up fishing nets of man-made textile materials

4401 China, Malaysia, Thailand

13 560750 Twine, cordage, rope and cables of other synthetic fibers

4049 France, China, Thailand

14 591131 Textile fabrics and felts, weighing less than 650g/m2

3764 China, France, UK

15 591140 Straining cloth of a kind used in oil presses and the like

2867 France, USA, Germany

16 520851 Plain woven fabrics of cotton (cotton 85% or more, printed, not more than 100g/m2)

2606 China, Pakistan, Republic of Korea

prodUCT wise sUGGesTion for mandaTory sTandards:



s. no hs Code desCripTion of prodUCTs imporT valUe 2012 inTo

india in 1000 Usd

Top exporTers To india

17 520833 Twill woven fabrics of cotton (cotton 85% or more, dyed, not more than 200g/m2)

2590 China, Pakistan, Italy

18 520819 Other woven fabrics of cotton( cotton 85% or more, not more than 200g/m2; unbleached)

1485 China, Singapore, Pakistan

19 590610 Adhesive tape of a width not exceeding 20 cm

1426 Germany, China, Republic of Korea

20 611710 Shawls, scarves, mufflers, mantillas, veils, knitted or crocheted

1179 China, Italy, Austria

21 560900 Article of yarn, strip or the like of artificial textile materials, rope

1047 China, Germany, UK

22 540500 Artificial monofilament of 67 decitex or more

1007 UK, USA, Thailand

23 610711 Men’s or boy’s underpants, briefs, of cotton, knitted or crocheted

892 China, Sri Lanka, Thailand

24 621410 Shawls, scarves, mufflers, mantillas, veils of silk or silk waste

887 Italy, France, Nepal

25 590800 Textile wicks; Incandescent gas mantles

850 Germany, USA, China

26 560749 Twine, cordage, rope and cables of polyethylene or polypropylene

704 China, Germany, South Africa

27 621430 Shawls, scarves, mufflers, mantillas, veils of synthetic fibers

622 China, Spain, Germany

28 611593 Stockings, socks of synthetic fibers, knitted or crocheted

617 China, Switzerland, Israel

29 610821 Women’s or girls briefs, panties, knitted or crocheted

572 Sri Lanka, China, Republic of Korea

30 520821 Plain woven fabrics of cotton (cotton 85% or more, not more than 100g/m2, bleached)

554 China, Singapore, Italy

31 580810 Braids in the piece 517 China, Hong Kong China, Turkey

Source: ITC, Geneva and WITS database

Note: The first seven products in the list above have been notified by the ministry for mandatory standard development. The specifications of the standards developed by Bureau of Indian Standards (BIS) are available on their priced CD-ROM.



s.no parenT aCT provision

1 Textiles Committee Act, 1963 Textiles Committee Act; functions of the committee:

1*(c)- establish or adopt or recognize standard specifications for

textiles and packing materials used in the packing of textiles or textiles

machinery, for the purposes of export and for internal consumption

and affix suitable marks on such standardized varieties of textiles

and packing materials.

2 BIS Act, 1986 BIS act, Chapter IV; powers and functions of the bureau

10.(1) a- establish, publish and promote in such a manner as may be

prescribed the Indian Standard, in relation to any article or process;

10.(1) b- recognize as an Indian Standard, in such a manner as may

be prescribed, any standard established by any other institution in

India or elsewhere, in relation to any article or process

10.(1) (i)- undertake research for the formulation of Indian Standards

in the interests of consumers and manufacturers

14. If the central government after consulting the bureau, is of

the opinion that it is necessary or expedient so to do, in the public

interest, it may, by order published in the official gazette-

a. Notify any article or process of any scheduled industry which shall

conform to the Indian standard and;

b. Direct the use of the standard mark under a license as compulsory

on such article or process.

3 The Central Silk Board Act, 1948 The Central Silk Board (Amendment)act, 2006; Powers to make

regulations:

13A.2(ii) laying down of various standards relating to kinds or

varieties, production, testing, supply, distribution, trade and

commerce and export and import of silk worm seed under sub-

section (2 )of section 8B

Simultaneously developing a possible maneuver for introducing these standards:

Apart from trying to develop new standards, it is being explored how to evolve and introduce these standards. Since,

currently no mandatory standards exists in T&C sector, it is required that a suitable manner of introducing these

standards to the industry must be developed in a systematic and sustainable manner. The developed standards might

be introduced under the existing acts and orders pertaining to textiles. Given below, the existing provisions to introduce

these standards:



Textiles Committee

MOT validates the list through discussions with

trade & industry, TXC, EPC’s etc.

MOT validates it and a second round of discussions begin with trade & industry

opinions

On mutual consent MOT may notify itself or

authorize TC, TXC, to notify concerned authorities

MOT informs WTO of the newly developed

regulations, WTO informs all member countries

Implementation process takes place through

Department of Customs

Identi�cation of products for which mandatory standards have to be

developed

BIS develops thestandards and noti�es

MOT

MOT may ask BIS todevelop certain mandatory

standards for textiles

Textiles Committee

TC requests BIS to develop standards for

identi�ed products

MOT may assign TXC/TC to notify the new

regulations

MOT informs WTO of the newly developed

regulations, WTO informs all member countries

MOT/TXC/TC may implement regulations

and coordinate with the department of customs to

enforce them and bring into practice

Identi�cation of products for which mandatory standards have to be

developed

MOT approves as per the provision

TC receives the developed standards from BIS and

submits to MOT for validation or BIS noti�es

MOT directly

The followinG maneUvers are sUGGesTed:

maneUver-1

maneUver-2

Conclusion and way forward

The due diligence requirements for developing standards

have been carried on by Textiles Committee (TC). Bureau of

Indian Standards (BIS) has requisite expertise in developing

voluntary as well as mandatory standards for various products.

To develop mandatory standards and specifications for T&C

products, it is required that a joint committee must be made

among the two organisations to work closely on standard

development for specific T&C products. It is also necessary

to involve the industry and trade people in the process of

development of standards as they can validate with a better

required insight of the specifications in a standard and

also the crucial products for whom developing mandatory

standards is of utmost importance. These discussions would

also bring out the possible constraints that the industry might

face in order to comply with the mandatory standards. Once

the standard development process is over, the ministry can

further strengthen the approach by taking necessary actions

for implementing it in a systematic and sustainable manner.



Shri Anand Bhai Popat, Managing Director, Jalaram Cotton & Proteins Ltd. Rajkot, Gujarat & General Secretary, Saurashtra Ginners Association

Shri Ashok Agrwal, Managing Director, Mulchand Phulchand krishi Udyog Pvt. Ltd. & Ex-President, Cotton Ginning & Pressing Association, Jalna, Maharashtra

Cotton Trade & Industry should look into the overall set up of Ginning & Pressing factories and

not just the quality of cotton while procuring bales of the Ginners. High star rated units are

definitely well equipped in terms of improved technology and better work practice and thereby

capable of producing quality cotton. Therefore market should privilege star rated units and also

pay premium price to their products. There should be periodic training programme to Ginners

to improve their star rating and enhancing the bargaining capacity.

u

u

GiNNeRs’ speak

Star rating is a unique system introduced by Textiles Committee through which the Ginners

could be able to know the existing status of their factories with regard to the level of infrastructure

such as Machinery, Civil structure and their work practices. Based upon the star status we can

find out the scope for further improvement and enhance their capacity to face the competitive

market with greater confidence”.

“Textiles Committee should continue the scheme of grading the G&P units in the country. At

the same time, there should be wide publicity about star rated Ginning & Pressing factories

among the Textiles Trade & Industry so that the Spinners and other stakeholders in the cotton

supply chain would look for star rated units. Besides, the high star rated units should be given more benefits such as

concessions in insurance premium, allocation of more export quota for cotton and also preference in reaping the policy

benefits. Government should introduce best ginners award among star rated units with a view to increase modernization

and ethical work practices. It is also necessary to modify the rating system periodically in accordance with introduction of

new technology”.

sTar UniT

sTar UniT

T ee ex tt tiile ms mCo

T ee ex tt ti ile ms m oC

Concept 5

15



Amit Cottons Pvt. Ltd.

Mahabubnagar,

Andhra Pradesh- 509 202

Lezend Cotton Corporation,

Andhra Pradesh- 506 001

Swathi Ginning Mills Pvt. Ltd.

Medak, Andhra Pradesh- 502 277

Aditya Cotton & Oil Agrotech Industries,

Karimnagar, Andhra Pradesh- 505 122

Sri Kailasanadha Cotton Syndicate (P) Ltd.

Guntur, Andhra Pradesh- 522 007

Jalaram Cotton & Proteins Ltd,

Rajkot, Gujarat- 360 050

Shiv Cotton Industries,


For detailed information about all Rated Ginning & Pressing factories please contact:

EP & QA Division, Textiles Committee, Mumbai. Tel. 91-22-66527600/603/604/610, 66527507 Email: [email protected], [email protected], [email protected]

T ee ex tt tiile ms mCo

T ee ex tt ti ile ms m oC

Concept 5

15

lisT oF 5 sTaR RaTeD GinninG & PRessinG FaCToRies

Raghuvir Cotex Pvt. Ltd.

Gondal, Gujarat- 360 311

Giriraj Cotex Pvt. Ltd.


PCK Cotton Pvt. Ltd,

Dist. Jalgaon, Maharashtra

Jayshri Ginning & Spinning Pvt. Ltd.


Rimtex Engineering Pvt. Ltd.

(Unit Cotton Ginning & Pressing),

Surendranagar, Gujarat

Mep Cotton Ltd.

Gujarat- 360 311

Tungabhadra Ginning & Pressing

Factory, Bellary, Karnataka

Loknayak Jayprakash Narayan Shetkari

Sahakari Soot Girni Ltd.

Nandurbar, Maharashtra

Gima Manufacturing Pvt. Ltd.

Maharashtra- 442 301

Shri Balaji Fibers,

Yavatmal, Maharashtra- 445 304

Shrigopal Rameshkumar Sales (P) Ltd.

(Ginning & Pressing Factory), Nagpur,

Maharashtra

Classic Knits India (Pvt.) Ltd;

Dist. Dharwad, Karnataka- 580 004

Textiles Committee has launched an Assessment and Star Rating System for Ginning & Pressing Factories

leading to a Rating Certificate. Each factory is placed in any one of the 5 grades ranging from “Single

Star “to “5 Star”. The rating methodology involves objective assessment of the quality of machinery, civil

structures and management practices.

The BeneFiTs oF The sTaR RaTinG FoR:

sPinninG mills

• Easier selection of ginnery for sourcing cotton.

• Undertake own ginning by choosing factories of desired rating.

• Select ginneries for contamination-free cotton.

CoTTon TRaDeRs & meRChanTs

• Can choose ginneries of modernized facility quality with culture.

• Greater confidence to get the best returns on investment in cotton.

• Maximize output in the ginning process.

Star Rating of Ginning & Pressing Factories


1) AHMEDABAD “Ankur” Building, 2ND Floor, Shanti Sadan Estate, Opp. Dinbai Tower, Mirzapur Road, Lal-Darwaja, Ahmedabad- 380 001

Gujarat Telefax- 079-25507612 [email protected]

2) BENGALURU FKCCI, WTC Building, 1st Floor, Kempegowda Road, Bengaluru- 560 009 Karnataka Tel- 080-22208010 Telefax- 080-22261401 E-mail- [email protected]

3) BHUBANESWAR Hastatanta Bhawan

Unit-IX, Janpath Bhubaneswar- 751 022 Odisha Telefax- 0674-2543723 E-mail - [email protected]

4) CHENNAI Old No.212, New No.130,

R. K. Mutt Road, Mylapore, Chennai- 600 004 Tamilnadu Telefax- 044-24615901 / 24610887 / 24640740 [email protected]

5) COIMBATORE Raj Chambers, 978-A,

Thadagam Road, Coimbatore – 641 002 Tamilnadu Tel-0422-2473094

0422-2478758 Telefax- 0422-2472689 [email protected]

6) GUNTUR Sai Ram Complex, Door No-25-1-9,

Near Mastan Darga, G. T. Road, Guntur- 522 004 Andhra Pradesh Tel- 0863-2218951 [email protected]

7) GURGAON Showroom No. 205, Apparel House,

Institutional Area, Sector-44, Gurgaon- 122 003 Haryana Tel- 0124-2572564

8) GUWAHATI Quality Control Office Building, 2nd Floor, Industrial Estate, Bamunimaidan, Guwahati- 781 021 Assam

Tel- 0361-2653020

9) HYDERABAD D. No.: 10-1-1200, 1st Floor,

UNI Building, A. C. Guards, Masab Tank Road, Hyderabad – 500 004, Andhra Pradesh Telefax- 040-23327153 [email protected]

10) ICHALKARANJI Hall No.1, Ward No.10,

Rajaram Stadium, Near Shivaji Putala, Ichalkaranji- 416 115 Dist- Kolhapur Maharashtra Tel- 0230-2420838 [email protected]

11) INDORE C-1/F, “Vikas Towers”,

Indira Complex, Navlakha, Indore- 452 001 Madhya Pradesh Tel- 0731-2401243 Fax- 0731-4230381 [email protected]

12) JAIPUR NGR-1, Nehru Place, Tonk Road,

Jaipur - 302 015 Rajasthan Tel- 0141-2743453, 5105234 Fax PP- 0141-2740141 [email protected]

13) KANNUR 2nd Floor, Platinum Centre, Bank Road, Kannur - 670 001 Kerala Tel- 0497-2706390 Fax- 0497-2706390 [email protected]

14) KANPUR Ground and First Floor, 117/48, Near Bank of Baroda Sarvodaya Nagar Kanpur- 208 005 Uttar Pradesh Tel- 0512-2212548, 2240066 Fax- 0512-2212548 [email protected]

15) KARUR II Floor, K. V. R. Complex,

21-J, 80 Feet Road, Karur- 639 002 Tamilnadu Tel- 04324-238610 Telefax- 04324-274871 [email protected]

16) KOCHI Office No. 52, 4th Floor, Marine Drive Commercial Complex, Shanmugam Road, Kochi- 682 031 Kerala Tel- 0484-2360814

17) KOLKATA Block- GN, Plot– 38/3, Sector– V,

Salt Lake, Kolkata- 700 091 West Bengal Tel- 033-23575155/ 23571008 Telefax- 033-23575202 [email protected]

18) LUDHIANA 48-B, Tagore Nagar, Civil Lines, Ludhiana- 141 001 Punjab Tel- 0161-2305635 Telefax- 0161-2304906 [email protected]

19) MADURAI 11-B, Jawahar Road, Chockikulam,

Madurai- 625 002 Tamilnadu Tel- 0452-2535758 Telefax- 0452-2535748 [email protected]

20) NAGPUR “Brindavan” 1st Floor,

744, West High Court Road, Dharampeth, Nagpur- 440 010 Maharashtra Land Mark: Near Laxmi Bhawan Chowk, Besides State Bank of India. Telefax- 0712-2561564 [email protected]

21) NEW DELHI(EoK) 39, Community Centre,

East of Kailash New Delhi- 110 065 Telefax- 011-26483476 [email protected]

22) NEW DELHI(N) 40, Community Centre, Phase I, Naraina Industrial Area, New Delhi- 110 028 Tel- 011-65496570/ 25791380 Telefax- 011-25896150/3241 [email protected]

23) PANIPAT SCO 32, First Floor, HUDA , Sector 11,

Near R. P. Stone Clinic, Panipat- 132 103 Haryana Tel- 0180-2668325 Telefax- 0180-2668324 [email protected]

24) SALEM S. K. Complex, 2nd Floor, 54/598,

Trichy Main Road Gugai , Salem- 636 006 Tamilnadu Tel- 0427-2467740 E-mail- [email protected]

25) SOLAPUR 162/11, Railway Lines, Solapur- 413 001 Maharashtra Telefax- 0217-2312698 [email protected]

26) SRINAGAR Raj Baugh, Opp. Radio Colony,

Srinagar- 190 008, Jammu & Kashmir

27) SURAT Block No. 2(A), 2nd Floor, Resham Bhawan,

Lal Darwaja, Surat- 395 003, Gujarat Tel- 0261-2423167 [email protected]

28) TIRUPUR Plot No. 8, 9,Thiru Vika Nagar, 1st cross,

College Road, Tirupur- 641 602 Tamilnadu Tel- 0421-2201402/2237935 Telefax- 0421-2202500 [email protected]

29) VARANASI C/o Eastern U. P. Exporters’ Association

B-2, Gurukripa Colony, Nadesar, Varanasi- 221 002 Uttar Pradesh Tel- 0542-2500616 [email protected]

Textiles Committee - Regional Offices

Printed & Published by:The SecretaryTextiles Committee, Government of India, Ministry of Textiles P. Balu Road, Prabhadevi, Mumbai – 400025 T:022 +66527507 F:022 +66527509 E: [email protected] W: www.textilescommittee.nic.in / www.textilescommittee.gov.in


tc times may-june 2013

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