table of contents - internodemichaelsnoad/manual_v1-7.pdf · content of your plywood panels could...

Table of Contents

Suggested Tool List Page 2

Before You Start Page 3

Step 1 Join the Hull panels Page 4

Step 2 Fit the Sheer Clamps Page 7

Step 3. Stitch the Hull Panels Page 8

Step 4 Hull Alignment Checks 0

Step 5 Glue the Hull Page 11

Step 6 Fit the Deck Page 13

Step 7 Hatches and Coaming Page 16

Step 8 Fibreglass Sheathing Page 18

Step 9 Final Fit Out Page 20

Step 10 Finishing Page 23

Glossary Page 24

Suggested Tool List

You don’t need very many tools to build your kayak. Its generally a good idea to buy good qualitytools if you can afford them and are likely to keep using them in the future.

Power tools:• Battery Drill, 6.5 mm chuck capacity. Not essential but will save you a lot of time. There is a lot

of holes to be drilled. Make sure you also have a few spare 2mm drill bits.• Jig Saw/Sabre Saw: You will need this for cutting out the front hatch and cockpit openings in

the deck.• Orbital Sander: Buy a good one with a dust bag attachment if you can afford it. Wood dust is

not good for your eyes and lungs. The same applies to epoxy dust. Read your Bote Cote manualfor more details

Other Tools:• Trestles or carpenters saw benches. At least two. These are required for supporting your kayak

during construction.• Clamps: the more the better. You can never have too many. Your kit has sufficient fold back

clamps to build your kayak however more fold back clamps and a range of slide adjust G clampswill make the process much quicker and easier.

• Block Plane used for various tasks. It needs to be kept sharp so you will also need a suitable oilstone.

• Wood rasps half round for various shaping tasks including shaping the coaming.• Pliers: full size electrician’s pliers are the best. They are designed for working with wire and

that is what you will be doing with them.• Scissors for trimming glass fabric. Large size is best.• Screwdrivers: various sizes.• Wood rasps or files for shaping the cockpit coaming and the front and rear ends.• Panel Saw for various fine trimming tasks.• Hacksaw for trimming the deck after it is epoxy glued in place.• String Line for setting out the hull panel alignment.• Plumb Bob for checking the hull alignment.• Spirit level also for checking the hull alignment.• 80mm wide paint roller and tray• Large plastic drop sheet to catch epoxy drips.

Before You Start

The construction technique you will be using tobuild your kayak is commonly known as stitchand glue construction. This is a well provenmethod with examples of frequently used (andsometimes abused) small boats including kayaksmore than 20 years old still in reasonablecondition. These boats are typically light andstrong and are often finished with a clearpolyurethane coating that highlights the woodgrain. The fiberglass sheath on the outsideprovides good abrasion resistance but mostimportantly it increases the strength of thekayak considerably. For this reason it is veryimportant that the epoxy resin used in thefiberglass sheathing is well bonded to theplywood substrate. The moisture content of theplywood is a major determinant of this bond. Ifthe moisture content of the plywood is too highthe bond could be badly compromised.

The Bote-Cote Epoxy Systems manual (page 8)provided with your kit suggests that timbershould not be epoxy glued if the moisturecontent is above 18%. Providing you store yourplywood panels in a dry location and keep themdry you are unlikely to have a problem with themoisture content. However there are locationsin this country where seasonal conditions withconsistently high humidity could causeproblems. In these conditions the moisturecontent of your plywood panels could exceed anacceptable level. If you live in northernAustralia or even on parts of the south eastcoast it would be wise to check the moisturecontent of your plywood if you know thehumidity has been high for weeks on end.Materials testing laboratories are able to dothis for you but it is expensive. For this reasonwe have available for hire a small hand heldtimber moisture content measuring instrument.Contact us for details of the hire rates andavailability.

An alternative is to defer your constructionuntil a more favorable time of year.

The other environmental issue is ultra violetexposure from direct sunlight. It’s not good foryour skin in large doses and the same appliesfor your plywood panels. This is the reason thefinal finish of your kayak needs to have goodUV blocking properties especially if it is a clearfinish. Marine quality finishes are generallyformulated to provide a high level of UVprotection.

Exposure to high UV levels during constructioncan also cause a patchy discolouration of theplywood that only shows up after it has beencoated with epoxy. While this is unlikely toaffect the bond strength between thefiberglass sheath and the plywood it is anunwanted feature if you plan to have a clearfinish on your kayak.

Your Bote-Cote manual has more information(page 8) on working conditions including themoisture and temperature affects on the epoxyresin you will be using.

In summary, be aware of the seasonal humidityconditions. Keep your plywood panels dry andkeep them out of the sun. If in doubt wait formore favorable conditions or if this is notpossible measure the actual moisture content ofyour plywood If the moisture content is at orabove 18% you should not epoxy bond them.

It is also very important that before you useyour kayak all the plywood surfaces both insideand out have at least two and preferably threecoats of epoxy. This is essential for protectionof the plywood which will degrade andeventually rot if water gets into the woodfibres. All cut edges and drilled holes needspecial care to ensure a 100% seal. You will findmore information on this topic in the manualspecific to various tasks.

Step 1. Join the Hull Panels

The first task is to join the twelve hull panelswith the small plywood butt plates to form apair of long bottom panels and a pair of longside panels. You need a flat surface like thefloor of a garage or deck at least six metreslong for this job.

Firstly lay out the six side panels with matchmarks facing upwards on the flat surface withcling wrap or similar plastic under the joints.Set up a string line between the two sets ofside panels. Check the dimension between thestring line and the panels adjacent to the buttjoints is correct as per the drawing #1. Adjustif required.

Next place weights on the panels so they willnot move while the glue is curing. Lots of bricksor pavers will do the job. We also use small nails(brads) tapped into our deck along the sides ofthe panels to hold them correctly aligned.

Position the four plywood butt plates accuratelyover the butt joints. Note that diagram #1shows the butt plates set down 20 mm from top

or sheer line of the side panels. Pencil markaround the butt plates. Sand across the grainof the mating surfaces of the butt plates andside panels with a new 80-grit paper using yourmarked outline as a guide. This step isimportant to ensure a good bond.

Next mix 15ml. of epoxy using the 5ml teaspoonmeasure (resin to hardener ratio 2:1) and brushit on to the areas to be glued. This primer issometimes called the soak coat. It will soak inespecially on the end grain so go over it asecond time after about 15 minutes payingparticular attention to the end grain. You mayneed to lift up the panels a little to get at theends of the panels. Wipe any excess glue fromthe underside of the joints.

Tip: If you want really accurate close-fitting joints there is a bit more involved inthis step. The trick is to keep the jointsbutted hard up together with the outsidesurface of the ply in line. You will needextra clamps for this. Instead of usingbricks we clamp the joint areas of the sidepanels to an off-cut of chipboard or MDF.Don’t forget the cling wrap in between.Clamp up the joint dry (no epoxy) first tocheck the fit and alignment) You may needto carefully sand the edges of the plywhere they butt up to ensure a precise fitwith no gap. Remember to recheck andmaintain the offset dimension to the stringlie as per diagram #1 at all times. Whenyou are happy with the fit prime and gluethe joint as per next detail.

TIP: It is easy to waste epoxy by mixingmore than you need or can use before itstarts to cure. Start with small quantitiesand with experience you will get better atestimating how much you need to mix. As aguide for the thickened epoxy we mix halfthe quantity of epoxy that was needed forthe prime coat. The filler added to thethickened epoxy bulks it out a lot.

Diagram # 1. Side Panel Alignment Details

Diagram # 2. Bottom Panel Alignment Details

Mix up 7.5ml of epoxy using the 2.5ml half-teaspoon measure (2:1 ratio) and blend in somehigh strength epoxy filler to make a mayonnaiselike consistency.

Apply this thickened epoxy glue to all surfacespreviously primed and then accurately positionthe butt plates over the butt joints using yourpreviously marked outline as a guide. Carefullyplace a house brick or similar on top of each ofthe butt plates to hold or clamp the jointstogether while the epoxy cures. A small amountof the thickened epoxy glue should be forcedout to the sides of the butt plates by theweight. Re-check to make sure the butt strapsare still correctly aligned with the butt jointline in the side panels. It’s also a good idea torecheck the dimensions between the panels andthe string line at this stage.

Allow the glue to cure overnight or even longerin cooler weather before moving the panels.

The procedure for joining the six bottom panelsis similar to that described for the side panels.The only difference is that the butt plates areset equal distance from the edges of thepanels. The accuracy of the dimension from thestring line at the keel line is very important.You should get these measurements accuratewithin 1 to 2 mm otherwise the keel joint of thekayak may end up uneven. . Refer to Diagram #2 for the dimensions.

Step 2. Fit the Sheer Clamps

The sheer clamps are supplied in two or threepieces for each side panel with pre-cut anglecut (scarf) joints. These scarf joints are gluedtogether at the same time as the sheer clamp isglued to the side panels. Starting at the bowtemporarily fix the sheer clamp to the topinside of one of the side panels with the foldback clips supplied. (There are sufficient foldback clamps supplied to do one side panel at a

time) Make sure the sheer clamp extends 4 to 5mm above or outside the top of the side panelsas per diagram #3 and cut to length 50mm backfrom the front and 40mm from the back. Thescarf joints should be snug fitted at this stage.Mark along the bottom of the sheer clamp onthe side panel full length with a ballpoint pen.

Remove the sheer clamps and sand across thegrain of the mating surfaces of the sheerclamps and side panels with a new 80-grit paperusing your previously marked outline as a guide.

Mix up about 30 ml of epoxy and prime all thesurfaces to be glued as you did with the buttjoints. Mix about 15ml of thickened epoxy tostart with and carefully spread it on thesurfaces previously primed using your markedoutline as a guide. Clamp the sheer clamp to theside panel using your previously marked outlineas a guide. The fold back clamps should bespaced at about 150mm centres. Ensure thatthe scarf joints are snug and place an extra

Diagram #3

TIP: Sanding across the grain is not easy todo on such narrow sections so we prefer toscrape the area to be glued with the toothedge of a broken hacksaw blade. Thisresults in a series of parallel grooves whichprovide a very effective key for the glueand have the added benefit of effectivelydoubling the surface area of the glue line

clamp directly over the scarf joint. Re-checkthat the sheer clamp is above of the top of theside panels by the specified 4 to 5mm andadjust if required. Wipe excess thickenedepoxy from the underside of the sheer clampwith a disposable cloth.

Once again allow the epoxy to cure overnight oreven longer in cooler weather before moving thepanels.

After the epoxy has cured sand a strip about40mm wide along the inside of all of the edgesto be glued when the hull panels are wiredtogether (stitched). Use new 80 grit abrasivepaper.

Step 3. Stitch the Hull Panels

This is one of the most exciting stages inbuilding your kayak. In an hour or two you gofrom having two pairs of long flat plywoodpanels to an elegant three-dimensional formthat is obviously a kayak!

Lay the two long side panels together with thesheer clamps facing inwards. Tie them togetherat the front and back through the matchingsmall holes using short lengths of the copperwire supplied (firm but not tight). These pre-drilled holes are just to get you started. Markand drill all the tie holes 5mm from edge of thechine joint spaced about 200 mm apart.

Place the assembled side panels upside down ontwo carpenters saw horses or similar supports.

Separate and spread the panels and hold themapart at the mid point with the temporaryspreader stick supplied with the kit. Take amoment or two to admire your work. It’salready starting to look like a kayak.

With your tape measure make a pencil mark onboth sheer clamps 2800mm from the top frontof the side panels (the bow). Slide thetemporary spreader stick into line up withthese marks. This is the widest part of yourkayak.

Lay out the two bottom panels with the insideof one facing the inside of the other and tiethem together every second hole along thecentre or keel line. You will need to drill theseholes also at 200mm spacing. The wire ties mustbe fairly loose at this stage. Next lay twoscraps of thin timber (plywood off-cuts orsimilar) across the upside down kayak sidepanels.

The next step is a bit tricky for one person soget someone to help you if possible.

Gently place the pre wired bottom panels onthese supports with the wire ties at the top.Check that the front of the bottom panels arecorrectly oriented with the front of the sidepanels. If you are not sure which is the front ofthe bottom panels find the arrows marks on theinside. Spread the pre-wired bottom panelsnear the centres just enough to allow you tojoin the bottom to the sides with the copperwire ties starting at the front. The first fewwire ties at the front should be pulled up fairlytight once you are confident the alignment ofthe panels is OK.

Continue to loosely wire tie the side panels tothe bottom alternating one side then the otheruntil you reach the back end of the kayak. Re-check the bottom and side panels are correctlyaligned at the front end and that the spreaderstick is still in place at the widest point.Tighten all the ties starting at the front again.At this stage it is important to ensure theedges of the ply come together to form an eveninverted vee along the joint

You may need to push or tap the panels on theinside to get the joint to fit together correctly.Use a rubber mallet for this. Finish fitting thetie wires to the bottom panels at the keel jointand pull them up tight.

With the help of a friend gently turn the hullover so it is the right way up and sit it backdown on the supports. The bottom panels maygo flat as you put the hull down so get yourfriend to support one end while you clamp somesupports to the side panels about one third ofway from each end of the hull.

The next task is to install the bulkheads. Markthe position of the rear bulkhead 3150mm fromthe front top of the kayak. The bulkhead panelis designed as a loose fit so when you wire it indo not tighten the wires up fully or you willdistort the hull panels. There should be anominal 2mm gap all the way around. To achievethis gap use some short lengths of matchsticksas temporary spacers.

The front bulkhead position is determined bythe leg length choice made at the time ofordering. For example the bulkhead suitable forlong legs is positioned 1450mm from the rearbulkhead. The standard leg length bulkhead ispositioned 1350mm from the rear bulkhead.The short leg length bulkhead is positioned1250mm from the rear bulkhead. You may need

Tip: If you find you are breaking thecopper wire as you twist it up tight trythis. Put a new tie wire in and grab theloosely twisted ends in your piers and pullthem firmly away from the holes. Thentwist them until the tie is firm but nottight. Repeat this procedure until there isno slack in the copper wire. The tie is nowtight without excess twisting which tendsto break the wire.

Diagram #4

Tip: The thickness and stiffness ofindividual sheets of ply varies and canaffect the final fit of the joints. Theaccuracy and alignment of your butt jointsin the side and bottom panels will alsoinfluence the fit. You may need to installadditional wire ties where the alignment isnot ideal. If you end up with gaps of morethan 1 to 2mm contact us and we will adviseyou on how to correct this problem.

to move it a few millimetres in either directionto achieve an optimal fit. This bulkhead also hasa nominal 2mm clearance so follow theinstructions for the rear bulkhead when youwire it in. If you have ordered an optional footoperated pump kit this is a good time to drillthe four bolt holes required in the frontbulkhead. Follow the instructions that comewith the pump Kit

If you have ordered an optional rear day hatchkit now is the time to install the bulkheadincluded with that kit. Follow the instructionssupplied with the day hatch kit.

Dry fit the stern block into position in the veeat the back end of the side panels. Hold it inposition with tie wires drilled through at anangle on both sides. The back end of the sternblock should protrude about 5mm. The topshould be flush with the top of the side panels.When you have got that right take it out andepoxy prime it and the side panels beforerefitting it with a generous helping ofthickened epoxy.

Step 4. Hull Alignment Checks

Before you glue up the hull joints you need tothe get overall alignment of the hull straight.At this stage the wired up hull is quite floppyand depending on how it is supported willprobably have a twist in it. It’s simple enough tocheck and correct this twist and that isprobably all that is required for a first time kitbuilder. However for the fastidious we includeseveral other checks to ensure the hull isproperly aligned and symmetrical.

The first step is check and correct any twist.Place two straight pieces of timber or a spiritlevel at least 1.2 meters long across the hull atabout 1/3 & 2/3 distance from each end.

Stand well back from one end of the hull andcrouch down until you can sight across the topof these two straight edges. It should beimmediately obvious if they are sitting atdifferent angles caused by a twist in the hull.To correct this twist, raise or lower one of thesupports that you previously clamped to theside panels. Re-check and re adjust until thetwo straight edges are perfectly in line whenviewed from the end of the kayak.

As well as correcting any twist it’s also a goodidea to check the bow and stern alignment. Youcan do this by running your string line fulllength of the kayak at the centre line andattaching a plumb bob either end. Stand back toa position where you can see that the panels atthe bow line up with the vertical plumb line. Dothe same at the stern. Note: The kayak must belevel for this method to work so use your spiritlevel across the kayak and level it up first.

Diagram #5

If you detect any obvious misalignment loosenthe wire ties and twist the bow until theproblem is corrected before re-tightening thewire ties. If this is not effective it may benecessary to remove the ties and re-drill theholes to correct the misalignment. Do the sameat the back end of the hull panels.

The last task before you glue up the hull panelsis to press down the copper wire ties hard intothe corner of the joint. We use a bluntscrewdriver. This is done to ensure that thewires are fully covered by the epoxy fillet.(Refer also to the sketch on page 22 of yourBote Cote Epoxy Systems manual).

Step 5. Glue the Hull

Unless you are an experienced boat builder andhave done epoxy fillets before don’t try and dotoo much at once. Start with a small quantity ofepoxy and prime a section of the inside of thechine and keel joints near the centre of thekayak. Note you should have already sanded theareas to be glued before you wired the panelstogether. Mix up a small quantity of thickenedepoxy to a soft putty consistency. (Refer page11 of your Bote-Cote manual) The mix should bethick enough so that it does not slump whenapplied to the joint. Spread some of thethickened epoxy along the inside of the jointand work it to a smooth radius with no holes or

air bubbles. This is called a fillet. Scrape offany excess along the edges as you completeeach section. Refer to pages 14 to 16 of yourBote-Cote manual for more details.

Continue until you have completed all theinternal fillets. We use a piece of woodendoweling for the fillet at the ends of the kayakwhere it’s too tight to use your normal filletingtool.

Next cut to length the 50mm wide glass tapesupplied to suit the length of the keel and chinejoints. If the epoxy fillets have cured hard, (i.e.more than 12 hours) sand the top surface andthe adjoining primed ply with 80 grit abrasivepaper until you have removed the shiny surface.Note: the 100mm wide glass tape is for thecenter or keel joint in the cockpit where thefillet is relatively wide and flat.

Lay the 50mm glass tape along the fillets andwet it out with un-thickened epoxy.

Use only sufficient epoxy to wet out the fibreswithout filling the weave. Your Bote-Cotemanual has a good explanation of thisrequirement on page 18. You should also readthe whole section on laminating and sheathingstarting at page 18.

Note: The two short pieces of 50mm biaxialtape are not required at this stage. They are

Diagram #6

Tip: We use a 25mm disposable paintbrushwith the bristles cut short for wetting outthe tape. The resultant stiff brush is usedto press the epoxy into the glass weaverather than using normal brush strokes,which can move and stretch the glassfabric. The glass fabric takes a fewmoments to absorb the epoxy and lookspatchy at first. Just apply a light coat ofepoxy initially and go back over it later ifrequired.

for the outside of the center or keel joint isrelatively flat in the mid section of the kayak.

Find the 1500mm long piece of the heaviercoarse weave glass cloth supplied with the kitand use this to line the floor of the cockpit andup to the sheer clamps on both sides. Use thedry method to wet out the glass weave. Note wedo not recommend the wet method described atpage 17 of the Bote-Cote manual. The drymethod described on page 18 is a much easiermethod for most kayak builders. Use one of thefoam rollers supplied cut in half to spread andwet out the glass cloth. (Cut the roller in halfwith a hacksaw blade). If there are signs of airbubbles forming in the epoxy lightly brush thesurface with a brush or foam applicator. A cutsegment of the foam roller is ideal for thispurpose.

Next you need to plane down the top of thesheer clamps to match the curvature (camber)of the deck. We have included a ply template inthe kit to help you do this. Shave off theexcess sheer clamp material down to the top ofthe ply side panels. The front decks have a

different camber from the rear deck. Use theappropriate section of the template for thearea you are working on. There is also atransition in the deck camber between frontdeck and the rear deck adjacent to the cockpitopening. Getting the sheer clamp angle right atthis point involves some guesswork on your parthowever the accuracy is not critical.

Next fit the front deck beams. The shorterfront deck beam is positioned directly underthe scarf joint in the front deck 425mm fromthe front of the hull. The second and largerdeck beam is positioned a short distanceforward of the front of the cockpit opening.This dimension varies depending on the size ofthe cockpit coaming you have ordered. For thelarger cockpit coaming the dimension is2250mm from the top front of the hull panelsto the centre of this deck beam. For thesmaller size coaming this dimension is 2350mm.If you are not sure which coaming you haveordered check your copy of the Order Form &Waiver.

After trimming the deck beams to length(rebate) them into the sheer clamps on bothsides and epoxy glue them into place with thetop surface in line with the top of the sheerclamp. Use the sheer clamp template to checkthis.

The rear deck beams or stiffeners are fittedafter the deck is glued in place.

The next task is to reinforce the front or bowwith epoxy. This is some times called the “endpour” by other manufacturers and is usuallydone after the deck is on. Typically a cup full ofepoxy is poured into the front hatch openingwith the kayak standing on it’s nose. Needlessto say this can be a messy and imprecisemethod.

We prefer to do the end pour before the deckis fitted. First attach two short piece of ducttape across the top of the side panels right at

Tip: To achieve maximum possible bondstrength between the glass resin and theplywood substrate the plywood must bedry and freshly sanded to provide a keyfor the epoxy. Use new (sharp) abrasivepaper to sand across the grain at an angleof about 45 degrees one way then at 45degrees from the other direction. Thisresults in a crosshatched pattern thatprovides an excellent key and also raisesthe grain slightly which assists the epoxyto soak further in to the ply.

Tip: To minimize air or gas bubbles beingtrapped in the epoxy when it sets you shouldavoid applying epoxy to bare timbersurfaces when the ambient temperature isrising. It’s best to do this task late in theday.

the front. Do the same to the open vee in thefront of the side panels. Try and get it a goodfit with no folds or gaps. Reinforce this withmore duct tape around the front and thenwound around and over the top. This shouldprovide you with a leak proof pocket to pour insome runny epoxy thickened with some of thesanding filler supplied. With the help of yourfriend stand the hull on it’s end outside (we tieit to a tree) and pour in the epoxy until itreaches the front ends of the sheer clamps.When the epoxy has started to go hard checkto make sure none has leaked out. If it has topit up with more epoxy up to the ends of thesheer clamps.

Once the epoxy has cured sand the inside ofthe hull removing any sharp bit’s and epoxydrips paying particular attention to the cockpitarea. Apply two coats of un-thickened epoxy tothe bare timber on the inside of the hullsanding lightly between coats.

Step 6. Fit the Deck

The first task is to join the two panels of thefront deck with a scarf joint. It’s a good idea topractice this on some scrap ply first. On bothfront deck panels mark a pencil line 30mm backfrom and parallel to the edges to be joined.Note this line should be on the underside of thesmall front panel and on the upper side of thelarger panel. Identify which is the top byfinding our pencil marks on the panels. Clamp

the joint areas of the panels firmly to piece offlat chipboard.

With a very sharp plane start shaving downacross the grain on an angle between the lineand the edge. Your objective is to achieve aneven taper graduating from the full thicknessof the ply at the pencil mark to a featherededge at the adjacent outside edge. Check as youshave this down to ensure that all the plylaminations are uniform and straight.

Next epoxy prime and glue the prepared scarfjoint. Don’t forget to prime it a second timewith un-thickened epoxy after the first hassoaked in. We find it best to clamp the scarfjoint to a piece of chipboard in a manner similarto the that described in the tip box on page 3of this manual. You may also need to staple oruse some small nails (brads ) to keep the jointcorrectly aligned while you are clamping it up.

The deck panels are supplied oversize. You willneed to trim them later. These deck panels aretemporarily clamped down to the sheer clampswith the clear packaging tape supplied while theepoxy glue is curing. This is a proven method,which avoids the need to use permanent nails orscrews.

If you have ordered a rudder kit or areconsidering fitting one later, now is the time toinstall the plastic control line tubes that go

Diagram #7

under the deck. Read the instructions thatcome with the rudder kit for details.

Start by dry fitting the rear deck panel to therear of the kayak. Remember to identify thetop by the pencil mark. Lay this panel in positionon top of the sheer clamps and accuratelyposition it with the back flush with the sternblock and equal overhang on both sides. Drill a2mm hole and install a small nail through theback of the rear deck panel and into the sternblock. Next centre the cockpit end of the reardeck panel so that the overhang on each side iseven.

When you are sure the deck panel is correctlypositioned with no gap above the bulkhead drilland install another small nail through the deckand into the sheer clamp on both sides in linewith the rear bulkhead. of these temporaryscrews.

Mark the sheer clamps with a pencil at thefront edge of the rear deck panel beforeremoving it.

Thoroughly sand the complete underside of therear deck panel then apply a coat of un-thickened epoxy. Go over it again after about15 minutes if it has soaked in. Prime the top ofthe sheer clamp between the back and a pointabout 100mm back from the mark you made onthe sheer clamp. The front edge of the reardeck panel at the cockpit opening is not glued

down at this stage. Also prime the top of therear bulkhead. Prime the exposed edges of theply panels a second time after the first hassoaked in. Apply a generous layer of thickenedepoxy to the primed surface of the sheerclamps. This thickened epoxy needs to bethicker than normal to ensure it stays on thetop of the sheer clamps and does not run out ofthe joint. Test a small area by applying it about2mm thick to the top of the sheer clamp. If itstarts to run off and down the sides of thesheer clamp after a few minutes blend somemore filler into the mix to make it stiffer.Gently place the deck panel back on top of thehull as before and re-insert the nail at the rear.

With the help of your friend re-insert thetemporary nails at the front. Use a roof rackstrap again to pull the panel down over the rearbulkhead.

With the clear packing tape supplied start atthe front of the rear panel near the cockpitand tape the rear deck to the hull in a spiral.Work towards the back leaving a small gapbetween each successive wind of the tape. Youwill need to pull the tape down very tight to getthe joint closed up. Don’t be concerned if youhave a small gap in the joint at the place you aretaping. Each successive wind of the packagingtape will help close this gap. You should be ableto see some thickened epoxy extruding fromthe joint. If you find it difficult to close thejoint gap as you get near the back end of thedeck remove the rear temporary nail.

Tip: We use a roof rack strap to pull thisend of the panel down to the correctcamber over the rear bulkhead. Look underthe deck and make sure it is sitting on thetop of the bulkhead or close to it. If youhave the roof rack strap too tight it willtend to put excessive camber in the deckpanel and result in a gap at this point. Ifthis happens loosen the strap and try again.You may need to put some heavy weights onthe deck above the bulkhead or get yourfriend to push it down hard.

Tip: Finding the nail holes in the sternblock and sheer clamps can be a messy jobbecause of the epoxy. Use a long thin nailor piece of stiff wire to find the holes andline them up before you insert the screws.

Finally check that there are no gaps in the jointwhere the deck needs to be pulled down more.If there are, go over this area again with thetape and pull the deck down more until you closethe gap.

Remove any drips or runs of excess epoxy frominside the cockpit.

When you are finished, the rear of your kayakwill now look a bit like a bandaged mummy. Pullout the temporary nails before the glue setshard. Leave the tape on for at least 24 hours toallow the epoxy glue to cure to near fullstrength.

Fitting the front deck is a similar task.Remember to identify the top by the pencilmark. First dry-fit the front deck panel bylaying it on top of deck beams and pull the sidesdown to the sheer clamps with several roof rackstraps.

With the help of your friend slide the rearedges of the front deck panel under the frontof the rear deck several millimetres. You willneed to lift these edges up a little to do this.Get your friend to bump the front point of thefront deck panel with a rubber mallet while youhold the edges of the rear deck panel up. Nextequalize the overhang on the edges of the frontpanel. Find the centreline of the small deckbeam under the scarf joint in the front deckpanel and insert a temporary screw right in themiddle.

Check to see if there is a gap between theunderside of the front deck panel, the top ofthe front bulkhead and the top of the cockpitdeck beam. Correct the front bulkhead gap asyou did for the rear deck and do the same forthe deck beam. If you have trouble eliminatingthe gap above the deck beam install atemporary screw in the centre then pull it downwith a strap. If you do this use a small scrap ofplywood as a washer under the head of thescrew to protect the surface of the deck. Thendrill and fit a small nail through the deck intothe sheer clamp either side of the deck beam.Next scribe a line across front panel on bothsides where it is overlapped by the rear panel.

Remove the front panel and carefully trim offthe excess material up to this scribed line. Thisis the best method to get a close fitting joint.

Epoxy coat the underside of the front deckthen epoxy prime and glue the front deck paneldown the same as you did for the rear deckpanel. Start with the tape and work towardsthe front. You should also sand, epoxy primeand glue the front edges of the rear deck thatwere previously left unglued at the sheer line.

Tip: To ensure that these joints are neat,dry-fit the front deck a second time andcheck that these joints are a close fit.Clamp up the joints with the butt platessupplied and adjust the fit until you aresatisfied.

Diagram#8

It’s not easy to do this and you may not besatisfied with the result, however there is anextra epoxy fillet applied later to the inside ofthis area to reinforce it.

After you have finished taping the front deckdown epoxy prime and glue the butt platessupplied to the underside of the joints betweenthe front and rear deck panels. You may need toremove some of the packaging tape to do this.Take extra care with clamping this joint as it isdifficult to get an accurate alignment on thetop surface of the deck panels at this point.

As with the rear deck allow the epoxy to curefor at least 24 hours before you remove thetape, screws and clamps.

Trim off the excess material around the edgesof the deck. It’s best to do this with the kayakupside down to avoid damaging the side panels.We use a hacksaw fitted with a fine blade to dothis.

The next task is to round off the outside ofthe sheer line, keel and chine joints. Start withyour plane and trim down the joint area untilyou are about half way through the ply. You canjudge this by counting the number andthickness of ply layers exposed. You willprobably need to sharpen your plane severaltimes as the epoxy in the joint will dull the edgequite quickly.

Finish roughing down and rounding off theoutside of the joints with a #60 grit abrasive

paper. Be prepared to spend a few hours to getan even radius that looks consistent along thelength of the kayak. Any inconsistenciesespecially on the sheer line will be obvious whenyour kayak is finished. This is mainly an estheticconsideration.

Next shape the stern block and the bow toachieve a pleasing shape that has a smoothtransition to the side panels. You may need tobuild up the bow with some thickened epoxy toachieve this. If you are intending to fit arudder at any stage it’s a good idea to shapethe stern block to a half round radius.

Step 7. Hatches and Coaming

If you have ordered either or both of the VCPtype hatch accessory kit’s you can ignore thefollowing instructions relating to standardhatch installation. Use the instructions providedwith the hatch kit’s.

Find the five small holes drilled in the frontdeck in a cross pattern. Use these holes as acentreing guide for marking out the position ofthe front hatch. Sit the curved front hatch lidon the deck on top of the holes and line it up sothat none of these holes are visible. Mark orscribe a line around the lid then cut it outaccurately to the inside of the line with yourjigsaw. Clean up the cut line by sanding andround off the top corner a little.

Through this hole have a look at the jointbetween the front bulkhead and the deck. It’snot an easy task but it's important to prepareand epoxy fillet this joint. Do this with thekayak upside down. You will need lead light andpossibility a mirror. The fillet will probably beuntidy but it’s out of sight and will contributesignificantly to the strength of the frontbulkhead.

Sand and epoxy prime the underside perimeterof the new hatch opening back from the edge atleast 30mm. Epoxy glue the spacer ring suppliedto the underside of the opening. Clamp it inposition with the fold back clips supplied.Repeat with the wider landing ring ensuring thatit is concentric with the deck opening. The sawcut in these rings is to allow you to get them inthrough the deck opening. Position these cuts atthe sides at 180 degrees to each other whenyou glue them in.

When the epoxy glue has gone hard carefullyremove any excess epoxy from the hatchrecess with a sharp chisel. Trim and sand theedges of the curved hatch lid until it is a neatfit in the recess.

Before you fit the rear hatch the internal deckstiffeners need to be installed.

Lay them across the deck one in front and theother behind and about 50mm clear of the endsof rear hatch cut-out. Mark them and cut tolength remembering to allow for the thicknessof the sheer clamp. Dry-fit them into positionand mark their actual position. Sand the areamarked ready for epoxy primer.

Fully sand the two stiffeners including a smallradius on the underside and apply a coat of un-thickened epoxy. When they are touch dryepoxy prime them and the area on theunderside of the deck and epoxy glue them intoposition. You should be able to get at least one

clamp on them in the centre. Prop up the sideswith some short pieces of timber and wedges.If there is still a significant gap between thedeck and these stiffeners drill and installtemporary screws about 150 mm from each endof the stiffener and pull them up against theunderside of the deck. Wipe off any drips ofepoxy that you can reach.

Before you fit the rear hatch coaming do theepoxy fillet at the join between the rearbulkhead and the deck similar to the one youdid inside the front hatch. Try doing this filletwith the kayak propped up on it’s side.

Trial fit the pre-bent strip of ply that is therear hatch coaming. The coaming should be setwith 12mm protruding above the deck at the

Tip: An accurate fitting hatch lid isessential to ensure it does not leak. Trialfit the lid in the recess by pressing downon it with your fingers and trying to rock iton any high points. If you detect anyrocking movement greater than onemillimetre locate and sand off these spots.When you have got it right drill a smalldimple on the top of the deck panelalongside the recess and another on theadjacent top edge of the hatch lid. If youalways fit the lid with these marks lined upand the seal installed this hatch lid shouldnot leak.

front and the back of the deck cutout andabout 15 mm on each side. Make sure the cutends of the coaming line up with each other andput a fold-back clip over this joint to hold themin line. There needs to be a gap of about 2mmbetween the coaming strip and the deck cut-out. Use match sticks as temporary packers asyou did with the bulkheads. Fit several fold-back clips to the coaming strip to ensure it doesnot slip down. Sand and prime the joint surfacesready for an epoxy fillet on the outside and alsounderneath.

The outside fillet should be small (use a pieceof wooden dowelling about 12mm diameter. Dothe top fillet first and snip the matches off atdeck level as you go. When that is cured do thebottom, also snipping off the matches. Thisfillet is not easy to do; however it is important.

Use the templates supplied with the kit to markand drill the boltholes for the hatch hold-downstraps.

If you have ordered either of the day hatchkit’s now is the time to instal them. Follow theinstructions supplied with these kit’s.

Now is also a good time to drill any other holesin the deck if you have ordered any otheraccessory kit’s. Use the drilling templates andinstructions supplied with these kit’s.

Next trim to the correct shape the large holein the deck where the cockpit coaming goes.Use the top [flange] of the coaming to mark outthis opening. Temporarily tape this flange downon the deck following the deck camber and markthe cut line around the inside of the flange.Before you mark the cut line make sure theflange is accurately positioned. The backoutside rim of the flange should be directlyover the top of the rear bulkhead. Position thesides of the flange so that they are equaldistance from the sheer line on both sides. Thecentre front point of the flange should also beequally spaced from the sheer line on bothsides. Double check these dimensions beforeyou cut out the deck with your jig saw.

Dry fit the narrower spacer components to thedeck in the same sequence as they were packedand clamp them down with the fold down clipsprovided. Line them up with the cut out you justdid on the deck. Leave the top flange off atthis stage. Make sure the saw cuts at the frontof the two thicker spacers are facing down.These cuts are to assist bending the spacers tothe shape of the deck. When you have got themall lined up correctly drill small holes and loose-fit a small nail through the front and the backof these spacers. These temporary nails areused as guides to help you line up the spacerscorrectly when you epoxy glue them on.

You could glue all of the spacers on at the sametime however we find it easier and moreaccurate to glue them on one layer at a time.Remove the temporary nails before thethickened epoxy goes hard. If you forget grabthe head of each nail firmly with yourelectricians pliers and twist it back and forthuntil it is loose the pull it out. The top flange isnot fitted at this stage.

Once the spacers are all glued in place do anepoxy fillet around the outside of the spacerstack where it is glued to the deck.

Tip: Once the epoxy has cured check thatthe top surface of the coaming is flat byplacing a flat piece of chipboard over thetop of it and looking for gaps. If you findany, re-check to ensure the chipboard isactually flat. If there is a gap of more than2 mm mark the high points on the coamingwith some chalk and carefully shave themdown with your very sharp plane. If you getthis gap down to about 1mm you should nothave any problems with the rear hatchleaking.

Check to see that all the deck fitting work iscomplete with the exception of the cockpit topflange. Sand the deck thoroughly (use the crosshatch method we described earlier) and thenapply a coat of un-thickened NY epoxy (non-yellowing) to seal it. (Use the non-yellowinghardener supplied for the deck).

If the hull is to have a clear finish take carenot to get any spills or runs from the deck onthe side panels. It’s best to mask off the sidepanels to prevent this. Also mask up theunderside of any screw holes through the deckand ensure that the edges of these holes arethoroughly sealed with the epoxy.

Step 8. Fibreglass Sheathing

Set the hull up on your trestles upside down ata good working height. Make sure there issufficient space under the edges to allow you toapply epoxy to the glass cloth around theperimeter of the deck 20mm in from the edge.You may need to nail or screw some timberpackers to the trestles to achieve this. Makesure you have a drop sheet in place to catch anydrips of epoxy.

Thoroughly sand the hull and lightly finish offwith some fine sand paper using the crosshatchmethod described earlier. Also sand theperimeter of the deck at least 25 mm in fromthe edge. Brush off the excess dust and wipethe remainder off with a slightly dampenedcloth. Allow this to dry thoroughly and use thetime to re-read your Bote-Cote Manual including

the section on sheathing at page 16remembering that you will be using the drymethod to wet out the woven glass fibre.

Allow at least 3 to 4 hours for the sheathing.Don’t do this job if there is rain about or highhumidity. Get help from someone who has doneit before if possible.

Unfold the glass fabric from your kit along thelength of the hull taking care not to pull theweave open. If this happens spend some time toget it straight and even again. The glass clothshould drape nicely over the hull with no foldsor pleats except at the pointy ends. Later onyou will need to cut the glass cloth to fix this.

Mix up about 150ml of epoxy and start in thecentre spreading it with the foam roller andwetting out the epoxy. Remember you are nottrying to fill the weave only wet it out. Also theepoxy takes a while to penetrate the glassfibres and will look patchy at first. Graduallywork your way along towards one end doing bothsides as you go, ensuring that the glass cloth iseven and flat with no folds. When you get nearthe ends you will need to cut the glass cloth toget it to lay flat. There are several ways ofdoing this. We get a good result by cuttingdirectly along the top of the keel line at theends then lifting and folding the excess overand down the opposite side. This results in adouble thickness at the ends where the addedstrength and abrasion resistance is desirable.You will need to trim this overlap to achieve aneat result leaving only about 25mm overlap oneach side. Don’t be too concerned if it’sdifficult to get it right and bit’s stick up inplaces. This is unavoidable. Once the epoxy hascured you will have an opportunity to tidy thisup.

When you have wet out the bottom and sidesand the ends are reasonable, trim the excessglass cloth at the bottom so that about 25mm ishanging down all the way around. Wet this out

Tip: It is important to apply this seal coatnow rather than later if the final finish ofthe deck is to be clear. If the deck is notsealed now you may end up with unsightlypatches of discoloration under the clearfinish caused by differential UV exposure.For this reason it’s important to keep thekayak out of direct sunlight while you arebuilding it.

around the sheer line until is it attached to theunderside (the deck) and you are almost done.

In the unlikely event you end up with an areawith lots of little puckers that you can’t get ridof don’t panic. Let the epoxy cure like this andcontact us. This happens sometimes and it is nothard to fix.

Check the whole surface for dry lookingpatches especially along the exposed edges ofthe ply at the sheer line, keel and chine joints.Give these another application of epoxy. Theepoxy soaks in a long way at the edges and willalso soak well into the surface of the ply if it isdry and well prepared with the cross hatching.This means you should have an excellent bond.Do this again after about 15 minutes and againlater on until it has stopped soaking in.Remember you are not trying to fill the weavewith epoxy. The finished surface should betextured by the weave with the glass fibressaturated but obviously in need of another coatof epoxy. This is the time to quit. Plan to do thenext coat of epoxy within 12 hours if possibleto ensure the best possible bond.

Before you apply the second coat of epoxyconsider the option of using a coloured tint inthe epoxy. Consult the last section on finishingin this manual for details.

If you have some messy bit’s at the ends withexposed glass fibres and lumps of resin carvethem off with a sharp knife while the epoxy isstill only partially cured or green. Give theseareas an extra coat of epoxy. You may want tooverlay them with another layer of glass fabricif the area is extensive.

Step 9. Final Fit Out

Install the keel strip. This helps the kayak totrack in a straight line without slowing it down.This is an invaluable energy saver on longertrips. The tapered keel strip is installed at the

rear of the hull with the thick end in line withthe back end of the hull keel line. Sand andprime then glue it on with thickened epoxy.Hold it in place with packaging tape while theepoxy cures.

After the epoxy has cured shape this strip to arounded profile on the underside then shape itat the back to line up and make a smoothtransition into the cut-away stern. Next usethickened epoxy to fillet it on both sides. Thisfillet will be quite large at the back tapering toalmost nothing at the front. Use your spoon forthis fillet. Finish it off with a stiff mix ofepoxy and lightweight epoxy sanding fillersupplied.

Next install the pump kit if you have orderedone (follow the instructions included) then sandthe deck ready for the top coat you havechosen paying particular attention to theoutside of the coaming spacers.

If you have ordered a deck line kit withrecessed fittings now is the time to install therecessed anchor points. Follow the instructionssupplied with the deck line kit.

With care you will be able to remove excessfibreglass from the hull sheathing around theedges of the deck until you have an even lineabout 25mm in from the edge.

Sand the edges of the deck and down the sidesat least 30mm. With care you should be able tosand the glass fibre around the edge of thedeck to achieve a smooth straight overlap about25mm wide.

This next step glassing the deck only applies tothe standard and expedition weight kayaks.

Apply the light weight woven glass fibre to thedeck using the same techniques as you did forthe hull. Don’t cut the cockpit and hatchopenings until you have finished wetting out thetop surface. Trim the edges 25 mm wider thanthe deck and roll them out and down the sidesin an overlap of the hull sheathing. Thisprovides a very strong double thickness glassreinforcement at the sheer line joint.

Cut the glass fabric out around hatch openingsand cockpit coaming spacers. At the cockpitcoaming cut it undersize so that you have about20 mm to turn it up the sides of the coamingspacers right to the top. Do the same with thestandard rear hatch coaming. If you have fittedthe optional VCP type front hatch cut the glasscloth about 50 mm smaller than the outside ofthe recess and roll it down the sides of therecess and trim off any excess. You may needto snip it in several places to get it to sit flat.

If you have ordered a contoured rubber seatfollow the instructions that come with the seatand by pass this next step.

Prepare the seat base for installation by givingit at least three coats of epoxy then epoxy glue

it down at the sides to the floor of the cockpit.Position it with the back edge 120mm from therear bulkhead and centred. You could leave itflat but you will get better support and comfortif you push it down in the middle about 15mm.Use a prop with a timber cross brace from theunderside of the deck and wedges or packers tohold it in this position. Hold it in this positionfor at least 24 hours while the epoxy cures.

Now is also a good time to tidy up and finish offthe epoxy fillets inside the cockpit. Have a lookat the top of the front bulkhead. Clean up anddo that fillet. This is best done with the kayakupside down. Also do a new fillet along theunderside of the sheer clamp on both sides ofthe cockpit between the rear bulkhead and thefront deck beam. These can be done with thekayak on it’s side.

This is also a good time to finish off the rearhatch lid. Before you do the final shaping andsanding on the outside prepare the inside anddo a small epoxy fillet in the corner all the wayaround where the sides are glued to the top.We use a short piece of 12mm wooden dowelingfor this fillet. When the epoxy has cured andyou are doing the final shaping and sanding dothe same for the front hatch.

If you have ordered any accessory kit’s for thecockpit follow the instructions provided withthose kit’s and drill any bolt holes required butdon’t fit the items yet. Remember to seal upthe edges of these holes by priming them withun-thickened epoxy

If you have ordered a rudder kit now is thetime to install the stainless steel pivot tube inthe stern block. Follow the instructions includedwith the rudder kit.

When this is done fine-sand the floor and sidesof the cockpit (#240 grit) and give them aboutfour coats of polyurethane marine finish, Thisis required to protect the exposed epoxy andthe timber substrate from UV degradation. Dothe same for the deck. Check your Bote-Cotemanual for details of their low toxicitypolyurethane finish coatings.

Next finish off the coaming. First use maskingtape and paper to protect the deck finisharound the coaming. Dry fit the top flange tothe spacers already glued in place. Make surethe overhang is even at about 15mm on all sides.Clamp it in this position while you drill and fittwo temporary guide nails at the front andback. Sand, prime and epoxy glue the flange tothe spacers using the loose nails as your guidefor correct alignment. Use lots of clamps andfold-back clips and make sure the joint is closedwith epoxy extruding all the way around.Warning; pull the nails out before the epoxycures. You may not be able to get them outlater without damaging the coaming.

The next task is to shape the coaming. Takeyour time and get it right. Use diagram #12 as aguide. Use your spoke shave and wood rasps torough it down then sand it to the final shapewith coarse followed by fine abrasive paper.The profile of the outer edge is important. Itneeds to be fine so that the neoprene spraydeck that fit’s over it grips and stays on but notso sharp that it cuts the neoprene.

When this is done seal up the coaming with un-thickened epoxy remembering that the epoxywill soak in a long way on all of these exposedply edges. Place some newspaper down on thefloor of the cockpit to catch any drips. Give it atotal of three coats of epoxy followed a fewdays later after the epoxy is fully cured withthe same polyurethane coating you used on thedeck. If you have ordered a kayak kit withstandard hatches do the same for both of thelids supplied.

While the epoxy on the coaming is curing (whenit is touch dry) finish fitting the cockpitaccessory kit’s using the individual kitinstructions as a guide. If your kayak hasstandard deck hatches install the hold downstraps supplied and fit the seals to the lids.Where any screws go through the deck theyneed to be sealed by applying polyurethanemarine sealant to the holes and the screwthreads. After you tighten them up clean offany excess before it dries.

Take care to fit the seals accurately if youdon’t want the hatch lids to leak. The front sealshould be installed so that the ends butt upneatly. This front seal is positioned on thehatch opening flange close to and parallel to theinside edge. Leave the seal un-cut until you haveabout 90% of it stuck down in place and thencut the ends to the right length with a razorblade.

Tip: A round file is a good tool for roughingdown the irregularities around the coamingspacers. You can bend the tang of the file sothe handle is tilted up at an angle to helpimprove your access. Use some thickenedepoxy to fill any gaps.

Install the rear hatch seal on the underside ofthe hatch lid with some water resistant contactadhesive. Make sure you position this seal sothat it is hard up against the outside rim of thelid all the way around. The easiest way to dothis is to put the seal on while the contactadhesive is still tacky. You should be able tocorrect any misalignment at this stage. Thenput the lid in position on the coaming with aweight on the top for about 20 minutes. Takethe lid off and firmly press the rubber onto theunderside of the hatch lid.

Glue the rubber seat cushion down to the basepad with water resistant contact adhesive.

Step 10. Finishing

The end is in sight: almost. You could launch andpaddle your kayak at this stage. However it willbe much more satisfying when it’s all finished.

You have already applied a marine polyurethanefinish to the deck and inside of the cockpit.This is essential for UV protection of the deckand may be either clear or coloured.

The hull is much less likely to be affected byUV degradation so you have more choices. Someboat builders advocate a quick and dirty job i.e.paint the hull with ordinary house paint and beprepared to rub it down and repaint it regularly.At the other extreme is the very labourintensive approach of fairing and finishing thehull with expensive coatings to achieve a smoothhigh gloss finish. If that is the way you areinclined read the section on finishing at page 18of your Bote-Cote manual and get to work. Beprepared to spend many hours sanding.

The very last task is for you to read and theninstall the self adhesive safety label in thecockpit at the place marked. If you have mislaidthis label contact us and we will supply you witha new one free of charge. Clean the epoxycoating where the label goes with somemethylated spirit’s before you stick it on. Don’tdo this task on a hot day or in direct sunlight.Wet the area where the label goes with coldwater and a little liquid washing up detergent init. Peel the backing off the label and carefullyposition it on the wetted area. You should beable to slide it around to realign it if required.Carefully smooth out any wrinkles or air bubblesstarting at the center. Use a soft clothdampened with the water detergent mix forthis.

If you are proud of your kayak and like our kit’swe would appreciate it if you would also stickour logo label down on the deck.

Enjoy paddling your kayak and keep safe.

RegardsMike Snoad

Tip: Currently we are experimenting with acolored tint in the epoxy for the hullfinish. It’s not as smooth or as hard as thepolyurethane finishes but it is very easyto repair damage and it looks good. It hasan attractive gloss finish and is alsotranslucent so you can see some of thewood grain through it. There is some riskof UV degradation but in our opinion thisis a low risk providing the kayak is storedout of direct sunlight. When they arebeing used not much of the hull is in thesun. Contact us if you want moreinformation.

Glossary

Bond The strength of the connection between two or more parts of the kayak at ajoint

Bow the front end of any boat

Bulkhead the watertight panels between the cockpit and the other compartments

Butt joints a joint between two panels in the same plane where the square edges of thepanels are joined to each other

Butt plate a strip of plywood that is used to reinforce the inside of a butt joint

Camber the curvature of the deck that helps the water to run off

Chine the angle formed by the joint where the bottom and sides of the kayak meet

Coaming the raised rim around the cockpit and some hatches

Cockpit the place in a kayak where you sit and paddle

Cure the chemical reaction of mixed epoxy as it sets and gains strength

Day hatch a storage compartment accessible from the cockpit

Deck the top surface of any boat that keeps the water out

Fillet a curved infill of epoxy on the inside of joint

Flange the flat thin top part of the cockpit coaming

Green partly cured epoxy that is not full hardened

Hatch the deck opening used for access to various watertight compartments

Hull the main or lower part of the kayak that keeps the water out.

Keel the join along the underside of the kayak where the two bottom panels meet atthe centre.

Key preparation of surfaces to be glued by roughening them to increase thesurface area

MDF medium density fibreboard, like chipboard but more dense

Prime the first coat of epoxy that soaks into the surface to be glued

Scarf joint an alternative to a butt joint where the panels are joined by trimming theedges down at an angle and overlapping them

Sheathing the fiberglass skin on the outside of the kayak

Sheer clamps the long strip of timber attached to the inside top of the side panels to whichthe deck panels are bonded

Sheer line the angle formed by the joint between the top (deck) and the sides of thekayak

Spray deck a flexible nylon or neoprene cover that seals around your waist and is a tightfit over the rim of the cockpit coaming

Stern the back end of any boat

Stern block the solid piece of wood that fits between the side panels right at the back.

Template a pattern used to mark the position of holes to be cut or drilled in the kayak.

VCP Valley Canoe Products; a company who produce hatches for kayaks

Wet out saturate the glass fibres with epoxy resin

table of contents - internodemichaelsnoad/manual_v1-7.pdf · content of your plywood panels could...

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