TTERRONIMAGAZINE

9219

ISSUE Nº5SUMMER / FALL 2013

Featured Region: Le who?

LE MARCHE!

CALIFORNIA CORRESPONDENTS! OUR LA COLLEAGUES—AND WORDSMITHS—SHARE THEIR SUNSHINE, EDITORIALLY SPEAKING

Why we love URSA

Terroni staff styles, Adelaide edition

Take some fennel seeds, add five chefs and boom: five recipes #thereyouhaveit

How we make bread (and the surprising story behind the men who showed us how)

Speaking of hashtags, don't forget to include #terroniregulars to your Terroni-themed pics for a chance to have it featured in our next issue

Printed in Canada

Kat KaplanKat has been bartending at Terroni LA since Day One. She’s been writing and entertaining most of her days, specializing in comedy hip-hop (she’s a rapper!), dance, stand-up, sketch, stunts, music and live theatre. She also volunteers at the local animal shelter, shoots fun videos and studies Italian. Her full list of credits and performance resume is stapled to the back of this magazine… just kidding.

David AlfanoWhen he isn’t serving wine as part of the sommelier team at Terroni LA, David is acting in improv and sketch comedy theatre—and waiting for the next audition for “18-to-play-younger, ethnically ambiguous.” His interest in wine began when he started bartending to finance his degree in TV produc-tion. The best part of David's job is telling customers what they aren't going to drink. Whether you ask him for malbec, oaky chardonnay, or even a wine from Terroni's list you've previously tasted, he’ll make sure you try some-thing new. Also, he's a bit older than he looks, so please don't make the joke of asking for his ID when he asks to see yours before serving you.

Cindy GalvaoThe Terroni Queen veteran started her fashion blog, True North Style, in the fall of 2007 as an outlet for her love of fashion. These days her web life also includes a fashion and beauty YouTube channel, a personal "mood board" on Tumblr and daily doses of Instagram. When she's not at Terroni, or on the In-ternet, you can find her travelling around North America, blasting music way too loud, reading anything fantasy/supernatural and, naturally, shopping or as she calls it "research for the blog". You can find her online, everywhere.

Rick and Sandra KangWhen he’s not tossing up a circus shot or procrastinating, Rick Kang is writ-ing ads to pay for his jerk chicken and sneakers. When she’s not shopping for a genuine Gordon Gartrelle, Sandra Kang is designing ads and making fashion a li’l less ugly.

Jessica BrooksWhen she isn't in the kitchen baking up a storm, or working as an associate producer for the CBC’s In the Kitchen with Stefano Faita and Best Recipes Ever, Jessica is reading and tweeting about food. She received her formal journalism training at Humber College, from where she holds a postgraduate degree. She's also worked as an assistant producer for iCast News at the United Nations in New York, as an online producer at the Canadian Press in Toronto and, of course, as a Terroni server. Follow her on Twitter: @Brookscooks.

Stephanie PalmerPassion and a belief in magic is what makes the world go round for this Toronto born and bred photographer who artfully balances her time between raising a young family, photo shoots and managing Terroni Adelaide. In this issue, one assignment in particular left its mark in her heart: spending an early Sunday morning photographing master breadmakers Guiliano and Fabio in the still-under-construction Terroni Bakery ended up feeling more like a gift than work.

CONTRIBUTORS

Publisher Elena di Maria

Editor-in-Chief Jessica Allen

Design Small

Director of Photography Stephanie Palmer

Copy Editor Michael Barclay

Columnists Giovanna AlonziGianna Sami

Contributors David Alfano Jessica Brooks Taylor Dickie Cindy Galvao Kat Kaplan Rick Kang Sandra Kang

Admin. Managers Patti Shaw Karina Watsone

Many thanks to Davide della Bella Marco Bruno Nic Carlino Simon Gadke Carlo Lazzarino Albion Macleod Anna Mammoliti Cosimo Mammoliti Vince Mammoliti Fabio Moro Cosimo Pagliacolo Armando Palmieri Giuliano Pediconi Fabio Papa Francesca Sarti Max Stefanelli

T Magazine Headquarters 720 Queen St. W. Toronto, M6J 1E8

For inquiries and comments please email: jessie@terroni.ca

Follow us on Twitter

(@terroniTO)

Facebook (Terroni and Terroni: Los Angeles)

2

Date we opened: Nov. 12, 2007§

Date Los Angeline jaws began to drop when told we would not cut their pizza: Nov. 13, 2007

+Date LA Magazine, in their Best of LA issue,

named us ‘Best Pizza with a Seat’: August 2008‡

Number of Italians working here: 6×

Of Canadians: 4~

Of actors: 13‡

Number of marathoner medals Matt the bartender has nailed to the bar wall: 9

+How many different colours the bartender

Kim’s hair has been this year: 4

×How many times Maite, a server/bartender,

has been on TV: 24§

Percentage of hot, male celebrities that come in here who server/bartender Danielle has already

met and is pretty good friends with: 99.3 %‡

How many people Terroni LA co-owner Max has kicked out of the restaurant: ≈30

×On a scale of 0-10, kitchen

fluency in Span-talian: 9.93~

Percentage of employees that sport tattoos: 98.7%+

Highest wave John the bartender has caught on the Malibu Coast: 15ft/4.57m

‡Goals scored on the Terroni Foosball

table by the bus staff: 43,689§

Combined weekly, how many customers ask if Dita and Andrea are single: ≈41

~How many Bruce Springsteen concerts manager

Enrico has attended in his lifetime: 17×

Number of '80s songs on our playlist: ∞~

Number of World Series the LA Dodgers have won: 5

+Number of Major League Soccer

Championships LA Galaxy has won: 4

Number of awards Terroni LA’s Wine Program has won: 4

Year that David Beckham joined the Galaxy: 2007

§Percentage of the staff who wouldn’t kick

David Beckham out of bed: 100%×

Number of medicinal marijuana dispensaries registered in LA: 762

‡Estimated 2011 population of LA County

(largest in the US): 9,889,056~

Estimated 2011 population of Greater Toronto Area: 5,583,064

×Percentage of Canada’s entire

population the GTA makes up: 18.1%×

Number of cars registered in LA County: >5,000,000

+Days spent in traffic delay per year for

the average commuter driving in LA and neighbouring Orange County: 3.88

~Number of avid bicyclists, motorcyclists,

scooter-ists working at Terroni on Beverly: 11§

Average inches of rain per year in LA: 18 inches/457 mm

×In Toronto (including snow):

31 inches/793 mm‡

Number of Starbucks “coffee” shops within a four-mile radius of our restaurant: ≈50

~How many “skinny lattes”

have been ordered here: >560+

How many we’ve served: 0~

How far Terroni is from the ocean: 11.4mi/18.3km

‡From the Hollywood Sign:

7mi/11.3km§

From the Mexican border: 142mi/229km

~From the Price Is Right stage: 2 blocks

×Year that Terroni Downtown

LA will open: 2013+

How long it will take to drive to Vegas from the front door of the new restaurant: 4hr 15min

THE TERRONI INDEX LA EDITION

VIVA ANGELENO Compiled by Kat Kaplan

EMPLOYEE OF THE MONTH, LA EDITION: BOBBY MOYNAHAN

I'M A HYPER-VIRGO WITH MILD OCD, AND THAT

PROBABLY HEIGHTENS MY EFFICIENCY

interviewed by David Alfano

4

FADE IN:EXT. TERRONI LA - DAY

A restaurant stands on a street corner across from Pan Pacific Park in the heart of Beverly Blvd.'s restaurant row, its patio awnings dotted with holiday lights. Ter-roni LA stands as a bastion of authentic, unapologetic Italy within a city known for its fusion and sometimes-bastardization of culture.

DISSOLVE TO:INT. TERRONI LA - BAR – DAY

BOBBY MOYNAHAN, Terroni LA server and rock band frontman, mid 30s?, actual age undisclosed, strides in sporting five o'clock shadow at 11 a.m., his straight dark hair halfway to his shoulders. He's wearing faded fitted jeans, a red-hooded sweatshirt, dark sunglasses and an infectious smile.

DAVID ALFANO, part of a team of Terroni LA sommeliers, late 20s yet looks 16, sits next to a leg lamp by the window. Also an actor/comedian, he's an interviewer for the day.

DAVIDHey, brother. You look haggard.

BOBBYWe played a sick show at the Troubador last night and the after-party never ended. How was your improv show?

DAVIDIt was a solid show. We had a great house... but I'll ask the questions today. When did you get home?

BOBBYI didn't.

CUT TO:

How did you get your start at Terroni LA?

It was over five years ago, before the place had opened. I worked for Shereen at anoth-er restaurant, and she was looking for wait-ers for a new location. She told me to talk to a guy named Max, and that they "needed a rock star." I walked into Terroni LA, the place still under construction, and found Max talking to Fabio, the chef at that time. I was wearing ripped jeans and a paint-splat-tered shirt. After Max showed me around he asked me why he should hire me. I told him that he wasn't going to find a better waiter in Los Angeles.

Did you really believe that?

I knew I was a hard worker, maybe unortho-dox—

You're avoiding the question.

Well yeah, I always put 100 per cent into ev-erything I do, whether it's my art or a part of my life that facilitates it.

② “He's always been a great friend and sometimes thinks too much for others before himself. He's the type of guy that will be impulsively jumping up on a streetlight pole to attach a sticker for his band, yet have a buddha book hang-ing out of his back pocket. He also has a huge collec-tion of shoes.” – Enrico Bortoluzzi, manager

EMPLOYEE OF THE MONTH

5

What would Max say about that claim to-day?

I reminded him about that story recently. He just smiled. From a guy who doesn't bulls—t, I'll take that as positive feedback. After five years I still love this place. I love that everyone here has a supreme passion for what they do, and they carry that over into their work here.

What, for the record, do you do when not working here?

I'm a musician and singer/songwriter in an LA-based band called Ballerina Black. I started the band and basically book all of our gigs and rehearsals. Being in a band with these guys is like organizing a daily kickball game full of lunatics, knowing full well that you're crazier than all of them put together. But I can't—and I wouldn't—choose any other outlet for what goes on inside me.

What "goes on inside you?" Indigestion? Heartburn?

Ha. No. In life it may seem like you're dealt a bad hand, but for me that has been fertile ground for art, in my case that's the music I write.

You may be employee of the month, but have you ever almost been fired or thought of quitting?

We had a manager a long time ago, who for some reason really liked to test me. During a staff meeting she made a new rule that anyone with long hair would have to wear it up in a ponytail while working. I get it, it's a restaurant and there are standards. After I walked out of the meeting, Shereen fol-lowed me and asked what was wrong. I said, "I'm bummed. I guess I have to quit. I'm not exactly comfortable with the whole ponytail situation."

She laughed and said, "Honey, you can wear your hair however you want. We love you for you; that's why we hired you." Co-simo and Max were laughing about it later and I basically laid it out for them like this: "A pony tail? You might as well give me a pair of roller skates and some daisy dukes and ask me to wait tables." That's one of the reasons I love this place; love and respect. Max and everyone allow me to be me.

What do you think of LA?

It's kind of a tumultuous relationship. I do feel at home in LA after being here so

many years, and it does give me a lot of inspiration. Any unrest that I feel here is creatively healthy.

What about last night's bender?

Sometimes…not so healthy.

Dealing with the entertainment industry is such a common part of our job in LA. How do you feel about serving celebrities?

I don't own a TV, and half the time if I vaguely identify someone as a celebrity, I couldn't give a s—t... and I mean that in the best way. I treat everyone the same—regard-less of their public popularity.

Really? What about that time I introduced you to my friend Maynard Keenan, wine-maker and lead singer of the band Tool?

Yeah, I nearly pissed my pants. The man's an inspiration. I never said I didn't own a radio.

You've put Ballerina Black graffiti posters all over this city. Isn't there even one on this roof?

They're called snipes, and I actually did have permission for that one. Cosi gave me the green light and it's been there since.

Why am I spending my time interview-ing you today? What makes you a good server?

I'm a hyper-Virgo with mild OCD, and that probably heightens my efficiency. I also try to be as real with every customer as I can. I think it's refreshing to have someone to come to your table that gives you an injec-tion of honesty. Creating a personal rela-tionship with customers is something that keeps them coming back, and that's what all of us try to do here.

Any final thoughts about Terroni before I seal your fate?

I like that there are no compromises here. Sometimes in life you don't have to. There's a lot of soul and integrity that goes into what they do here, and what is presented to people. Even though Terroni is one of the most popular, talked-about restaurants in LA, I feel like it's a black sheep in a sense. I have always identified with that. In musi-cal terms, we're on the same frequency. It's perfect harmony.

① "Bobby is a total charac-ter. He's really quick and witty, a little crazy, and hilarious. He sometimes makes me laugh to tears. People love him because he is so 'out there,' but also because of his positive out-look on life. I can't imagine Terroni LA without him.” – Kayleen Arazm, manager

③ “He's a good server, but basically he's f—ked up.” – Antonio Giordano

EMPLOYEE OF THE MONTH

6TRE RAGAZZI

WHEN VINCE, ALEX AND CURLY AREN’T EATING AT TERRONI, YOU CAN FIND

THEM AT SELECT RESTAURANTS AROUND THE CITY. JESSICA

BROOKS REPORTS ON THEIR LATEST FAVOURITE SPOT.

What they’re eating now:

Ursa (924 Queen St. W) run by Jacob and Lucas Shar-key-Pearce, two Terroni alumni.

<<Vince>> It's unique and there's no one else doing stuff like this in the city. And you leave feeling like you ate something healthy. The funny thing is, some of the best dishes here don't have any meat in them. And coming from us, where everything we eat is protein, protein, protein, that says something.

Best Appetizer:

Hen & Maitake: boudin blanc, cockscomb, black truffle, celery root.

<<Curly>> The house-made tofu is good too. [Pointing to Alex] He had two servings. He's doing yoga tomor-row, that's why.

Best Main:

Georgian Bay whitefish with confit hen, salsify potato, cedar, pickled juniper.

<<Curly>> And the kale. That's JJ's [Cale’s] favourite vegetable. [Moans from the other ragazzi]

Best Dessert:

Single origin chocolate chantilly, pear, ginger, hazelnut.

<<Alex>> Chocolate is so cliché [after one bite]. Okay, I'm not a chocolate dessert guy but this is really good.

Best Digestivo:

House-made limoncello, made with white rum and served in mixed-matched vintage glasses sourced on trips to vintage and antique shops.

<<Vince>> These glasses are fantastic.

Best Server:

Emiko Sekiguchi [also the only server on that night].

<<Vince>> She was trained at Terroni.

7

HOW WE MAKE BREAD

AND THE SURPRISING STORY BEHIND THE MEN WHO MAKE IT

by Jessica Allen photos by Stephanie Palmer

“Would you like to meet the yeast?” This is the first thing master baker Giuliano Pedi-coni asks when I arrive at the soon-to-open Terroni bakery, Sud Forno, on a chilly De-cember morning. The 46-year-old is in To-ronto for two weeks from Le Marche, Italy, to experiment with recipes and help train staff before the new bakery, just a few doors east of the Terroni on Queen St. W., opens this spring. “The history of yeast is made by the person who works with it,” he explains. “It doesn’t matter if it’s 100 years old be-cause it changes every day. What matters is the person who works with it. It’s a rela-tionship.”

The yeast lives in a box that looks like an old-timey safe. He pulls the nozzle on the front clockwise and out pours a greyish bubbling sludge that best resembles banana pudding. It’s an oozy mess that looks pri-mordial, probably because it is.

With him is Fabio Papa, 36, who arrived in Toronto in early November from a small town in Campania called Casale di Carinola. He will stay on to run the bakery. Before I arrived, the pair prepared dough for bread they call pane Canadese: it’s made from Red Fife flour, an old Canadian wheat va-riety whose origins stretch back over 170 years. They work in unison—Giuliano break-ing chunks off while Fabio rolls them into

27 small balls between his hands and then drops them lightly on the cool stainless steel to help redistribute the yeast, which is alive, after all. After each ball drops, Fabio pats it a few more times for good measure. “It is important to give the first shape of the bread,” explains Giuliano, “because it will be the final shape.” Then they place the formed balls into little baskets that look like straw bassinets lined with linen that are stacked onto a rolling shelf, which eventually gets wheeled into a temperature-controlled room where the bread will rise a little more.

The two have been experimenting with over 15 types of bread in the spotless white-tiled bakery. The round and crusty Pugliese bread, or pane di Altamura, is the size of two heads and can last up to 10 days. They’ve also made a fennel sourdough—that may be the best singular bite of bread I’ve ever tasted—and an oat bread with raisins that Giuliano says is nice for breakfast. How many they end up making daily will depend on Terroni owner Cosimo Mammoliti. “But hopefully it will be as many as possible,” says Giuliano.

Giuliano was a panettiere for 23 years in Italy, baking bread every single night. He first learned the trade with the help of books and took plenty of courses to study the art, all the while picking up what he could

from master bakers with whom he worked. Recently, he gave up baking to consult for a Italian flour company. He also consulted for and taught at San Patrignano, a drug rehabilitation centre in Emilia-Romagna that has taken in over 18,000 addicts since 1978. The one-of-a-kind facility not only of-fers residents a home, health care and legal assistance, but also job skills, from furniture design and viticulture to the art of baking bread.

That’s where he met Fabio in 2006, when the former addict was 29. “Working with these people is a kind of emotion you cannot describe,” says Giuliano. “These people have such weaknesses but they are so strong. It’s beautiful because with these kids you get a relationship where there is an exchange of emotions. And there is a loyalty that develops that you don’t usually find in the outside world. A true relationship.”

As Giuliano, whose kind face is as soft as Fabio’s is hard and angular, turns out baguette-looking loaves from baskets onto long canvas planks, Fabio inserts the planks into the five-tiered oven, which can cook up to 100 kilos of bread at a time. When the planks are pulled back out, the loaves are perfectly placed and ready to bake—like an effortless magic trick.

When Fabio first met Giuliano at San

Patrignano, he didn’t like him: “Because I didn’t care about anyone then and here was Giuliano trying to instill passion in me,” he says as he tosses just-baked loaves onto a cold marble counter. He pauses, and then wipes his eyes with the corner of his white chef’s jacket’s sleeves. “But in the end, he won.”

Giuliano puts his arm around Fabio for a brief moment and then continues to fuss with a dough made from a slightly burnt wheat from Puglia called grano arso. “By feeling the dough you can tell what it needs or what’s wrong with it,” he explains. “This is the beauty of this job: you have to use your senses to understand what needs to be done. And then, without looking at Fabio, who is studding the dough with bits of can-died orange peel and anchovy, he says, “We both won.”

Tomorrow they are going to experi-ment with stirata romana (stretched pizza.) They’ll prepare classic combinations, like rosemary and potato, and tomato and moz-zarella. Other variations may be topped with herbs or stuffed with prosciutto. Fabio has no interest in going back to San Patrignano to teach, like Giuliano did. “I want to be put back in the outside world; to make my way on my own,” he says. “That’s what Giuliano taught me.”

11TASTING LE MARCHE

CHEF GIOVANNA ALONZI WRANGLES FIVE OF HER COLLEAGUES TO COME

UP WITH RECIPES USING A CLASSIC LE MARCHE

INGREDIENT: FENNEL SEEDS

photos by Stephanie Palmer

12TASTING LE MARCHE

I pride myself on always having detailed, distinct memories of everything I have

ever tasted. I rely on my palate and I can always place a dish at a specific time and place.

Things are different when it comes to the foods of Le Marche. I can't place a single morsel without confusing it with memories of the foods from its neighbouring regions. Le Marche, being at the heart of the Ital-ian peninsula, precisely where the north meets the south, borders six other regions and is dominated by the Apennines and 173 km of Adriatic coastline. Its traditional fare is a conglomeration of dishes from sur-rounding regions; its food is a mosaic of its geography. Brodetto di pesce, originat-ing in Abbruzzo, finds variations all along Le Marche's coast. Cappelletti, truffled ta-gliatelle, hearty legumes, grain and mush-room soups originally native to Emilia Ro-magna, Umbria and Tuscany can be found throughout Le Marche as local specialties. Here, these dishes are remade, perfected

and turned marchigiani; hence food from Le Marche has been defined as the confed-eracy of Italian foods. Vincis Grassi is the most famous example (see page 23 for its origin story.) It is very similar to lasagna Bolognese. Of course, you won't find one singular version in all of Le Marche. From province to province it may feature the typi-cal ragu, ham or chicken livers, mushrooms or truffle. Vincis Grassi offers clues into understanding that truffle production in Le Marche represents a third of Italy’s pro-duction or that hams, chickens and mush-rooms are all part of the peasant culture of the region. Food from Le Marche has al-ways been profoundly committed to being deeply local.

Pecorino di Fossa is the only thing that offered me a clear memory of travelling through Le Marche. I remembered visit-ing what seemed a medieval ghost town, perched on a steep mountain. We encoun-tered two people our entire visit there. The first was an old lady that lived at the top of

① When many of the small craft workshops scattered throughout rural Le Marche began to modernize in the 1980s, they began to produce everything from footwear and leather goods to designer kitchen wares on an industrial scale. Today, you can still find small family-run factories with big multinationals, like Tod’s, Prada and Guzzini. (And yes, there are factory outlets aplenty.)

13 TASTING LE MARCHE

a hill on top of the mountain. She seemed absolutely ancient and was still able to walk home to the top carrying a heavy pail of wa-ter, with the strength of a goat. She declined our offer to help her but did give us direc-tions on where to get the prized and argu-ably best of Italian cheeses. She directed us to the second person, a farmer who sold us an incredible piece of pecorino di Fossa for only 30 euros! The pecorino had been aged in century-old "fosse," caves deep in the ground traditionally used for aging the cheese. It was very sharp, salty, grassy and sulfuric and reminded me of tuff—om-nipresent in all of the caves. We used it in pretty much everything we made until it was all gone. It is also an ingredient in a couple of the recipes we feature in this is-sue. I strongly recommend using it as it can make any dish seem authentically from the Marche.

All of Le Marche’s different traditions and characteristics are weaved into its food and bound by a commitment to simplicity

and honesty. In this issue they are bound by one of the most popular ingredients of the area: Fennel. It grows bountifully through-out the region and our chefs have used it exceptionally. Olive Ascolane are one of the typical stuffed foods of the peasantry, com-bining olives with meats from three differ-ent animals, pecorino di Fossa, lemon zest and fennel seeds. Savoury and fried, they are the perfect bite to have with a glass of verdicchio this summer. The zuppa Marchi-giana, a rich stew of chickpeas, porcini and dandelion, is also finished with fennel and pecorino di Fossa. The rabbit is brightened with guanciale and flavoured with perfumed herbs, including fennel. Scroccafusi are a traditional dish popular during carnival. It is a fried dumpling dipped in honey and Sambuca with a hard texture that captures all of the rusticity of Le Marche. Last but not least we have a sweetly sensual roasted pineapple carpaccio that will bring all of the warmth of a summer in the Marche to your Canadian kitchen. Enjoy.

② Le Marche is separated from the rest of central Italy by the Apennines. They make a killer brodetto, a rich fish stew made with seafood from the Adriatic. Both black and white truffles, wild mushrooms and fennel make their way into regional dishes, too. And some say their porchetta is the best in all of central Italy.

14

Ingredients:400 g lean ground beef 150 g lean ground pork 50 g lean ground chicken 500 g green Ascolane olives 80 g of mire poix (diced onion, carrot and celery in equal amounts) 1 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil 100 g grated pecorino 50 g grated parmigiano flour 4 eggs bread crumbs white wine frying oil 8g crushed fennel seeds 10g lemon zest

Method:Remove the pits from the ol-ives by making a spiral inci-sion through the olives. Keep the olives in salted water for a couple of hours. Sauté the mire poix in olive oil. Add all of the meats and brown. Deglaze with white wine. Adjust the salt. Put the meat mixture, grated parmigiano and pecorino, 1 egg, fennel seeds, lemon zest, pepper in a food processor and blitz. Take a bit of this mixture and form a meatball in your hands. Wrap the olive spiral around the little meatball (the olive should be 40 per cent of the total weight). Dust the olives in flour, toss in the remaining eggs (lightly beaten) and then in the bread crumbs. Deep-fry the olives and serve.

Olive all'Ascolana by Marco Bruno

Ingredients:1 kg flour 3 eggs 80 ml olive oil 30 g dry yeast dissolved in 1/2 cup water 150 g grated pecorino 150 g grated parmigiano 20 g salt Pinch of nutmeg and pepper

Method:Grease and line a tall round baking pan, about 9 inches in both diameter and height. Mix the flour, eggs, yeast, grated pecorino, parmigiano, salt, pepper and nutmeg. Add the oil, and then knead the dough for 10 minutes. Place the dough in the baking dish and allow it to rise, nearly doubling in size. Bake at 360F for 17 to 20 minutes. Then, lower the tempera-ture to 320F and bake for another 17 to 20 minutes. Cover the bread with foil if it gains too much colour too quickly while baking.

Crescia, a traditional savoury bread by Armando Palmieri

Ingredients:1 pineapple 100 g water 400 g sugar 400 g water 40 g fennel seed – toasted 1 tsp vanilla extract

Method:Peel and core the pineapple and divide into quarters. Meanwhile, bring 100 g water and all the sugar to a boil. Continue to cook until it becomes a caramel. Add the fennel seed and stir for 30 seconds. Deglaze with the 400 g water, then add the vanilla and submerge the pineapple in the caramel solution. Refrigerate over-night. The next day empty all of the ingredients into a roasting dish, cover with foil and roast in a 400F oven for 10 – 14 minutes, until pineapple is soft. Let cool, and then slice as thinly as possible just before plating.

Fennel roasted-pineapple carpaccio by Carlo Lazzarino

Minestra di Ceci alla Marchigiana by Fabio Moro

Ingredients:200 g dry chickpeas 1 large cooking onion 100 ml tomato purée 100 g dandelion greens (blanched) 50 g prosciutto 50 g guanciale 3 tbsp olive oil 10 parsley leaves 2 tbsp of chopped parsley 6 Italian bread slices

1 garlic clove 15 g toasted, minced fennel seeds Pecorino di Fossa shavings (Pecorino Romano may be substituted) Chili 100 g chopped porcini mushrooms, sautéed with garlic, parsley and wine (optional)

Method:Soak the chickpeas in water for 24 hours before preparing the dish. Mince the peeled and chopped onion, prosciutto, guanciale and parsley leaves in a food processor. Sauté this mix-ture in olive oil in a large stock pot. Add the drained chickpeas and sauté for five additional minutes. Add 2.5 L of water and bring to a boil. Then add the

tomato purée and porcini mushrooms, lower to a simmer, cover and cook for three hours. Adjust the salt, parsley and desired amount of chili. Before serving, sauté the dandelion with garlic, add to the soup and bring everything to a slow boil. Toast the bread and place a slice in the serving bowl, ladle soup onto it and finish with pecorino shavings.

Coniglio in Porchetta by Davide Della BellaIngredients:1 deboned rabbit 80 g minced thyme 80 g minced rosemary 80 g minced dill 2 cloves garlic, minced 15 g minced fennel seeds 50 g minced guanciale Salt, black pepper, coarsely ground

Method:Place the rabbit on its back and open bilaterally on a cutting board. Season the entire surface in the follow-ing order: salt, pepper (a generous amount, almost to completely cover the entire surface), guanciale, garlic, fennel seeds, remaining herbs. Roll the rabbit length-wise and tie it tightly with butcher string. Roast on a grill at 480F for 10 minutes, and then lower the tempera-ture to 280F until the roast reaches 153F at its heart. Allow the roast to cool for five to 10 minutes, remove the butcher string, slice to about 1 cm and serve.

RECIPES

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16HE SAID, SHE SAID

1. What was the best meal you had in the last week? And who cooked it?I did a cleanse last week so that’s no good. But this week, I’m going to be really bad and say Monday night when I had dinner at Bar Centrale. Davide made this spaghetti with cozze (mussels) that was really good. That was the best meal this week. [Pause] But then I ate at La Bettola and it was really good too. This is tough. It was a Cum-brae’s pork chop and a duck breast. So I gotta say, if you really want to know my best meal this week it would be the spaghetti with cozze from Davide as my best primo and the pork chop and duck breast from Bettola as my best secondo. It was f—king phenomenal.

2. What was your most important professional ac-complishment of 2012?Well, am I allowed to include something from the end of 2011 and the beginning of 2012? Because it was the year that I finished Terroni Price and that took a lot. Wait, to be honest with you, I can say it was all fin-

ished in 2012 because that’s when we finished—in the summer, when the patio opened. We probably started in 2009, when I was still doing the lease, then we did the work, Centrale opened in April of 2011, then Price opened up December 2011 but the patio opened up Au-gust 2012 and so that was just amazing because it was a three-year project. So I guess for me that was pretty big.

3. What’s your favourite meal that Elena cooks at home?She makes a wicked plate of prosciutto and mozzarella. [They both laugh.] No, my favourite thing that Elena makes for me is when I’m sick; she makes a stracciatella that just blows me away. She taught me that one. And I’m going to have say her carbonara, too. We have bat-tles over it because she taught me how to make it really good, but I kind of perfected it. But her carbonara kicks ass. And her zucchini trifolate ( just sautéed zucchini and garlic with parsley.) Actually, there are about four or five things: She also makes this fontina soufflé and it’s world famous. And her flourless chocolate cake, it’s just unbe-lievable. So essentially, a perfect dinner would be strac-ciatella, carbonara, the zucchini, the soufflé—and I don’t like to mention chicken, I don’t cook it: I don’t think it’s worthy (that’s what the Colonel Sanders is for, right?)—but she makes a mean roast chicken, so that would be the main. And then flourless chocolate cake for dessert.

4. What are you most looking forward to in 2013?Oh, lots! For starters, I’m super excited about the bak-ery. And now we even have this kick-ass pastry chef, Armando Palmieri, so I’m very excited about that. It’s going to be beautiful. And LA is going to be beautiful—hopefully we’ll open up our second location there at the end of May. I want to be there for the opening. All I care about is that the food is coming out, and coming out good. I want to be on the line, at the pass, and I’ll make sure that all the plates are coming out the way that they should be. I have to say, the more openings we do—I’m not going to say it gets easier—but I expect all the f—k-ups that are going to happen and I’m ready for them. The food is the most important, and the service. And that there’s a flow to the restaurant and that flow gets off on the right foot.

5. What are you least looking forward to?It hit me today actually. The fact that by the end of November 2013, our little girl, Simona, has to put her applications in to universities and it’s not going to be anywhere in Toronto. That’s a fact. She’s made that very clear, which is good. I’m happy. But today, we had school interviews and her teacher said that we’d be talking about the transition and it was like, she will have this fig-ured out by November 2013. That’s going to be tough.

6. You have four kids. Which one is your favourite?Oh get out of here! Well Matteo is my favourite son, Si-mona is my favourite oldest daughter, Sofia is my favou-rite middle daughter and Olivia is my favourite youngest.

HE, COSIMO MAMMOLITI, IS THE BOSS MAN, THE HEAD HONCHO,

THE BRAINS BEHIND TERRONI.

17 HE SAID, SHE SAID

1. What was the best meal you had in the last week? And who cooked it?Well, Cosi went out every night and I stayed home, but that’s not normal—it’s because Max was here. Last week I made this pasta al forno for the kids that was so good. It was made with these big paccheri stuffed with ragù and then I made béchamel and then layered it all

vtogether. It’s a very homemade, home-style sort of meal. And I made an apple cake too and the morning after it was all gone.

2. What would you say was your most important pro-fessional accomplishment of 2012?For sure it was getting involved with Free the Children [an organization dedicated toward eliminating the ex-ploitation of children around the world, by encourag-ing children to volunteer and create programs] and going to Africa as a family. We had the most amazing experience: it was all so fulfilling and beautiful. And it was an eye-opener. It had a huge impact on us as indi-viduals and as a family. It really brought us closer to-gether and gave us a different perspective on the way you look at things, so much so that when we came back, we wanted to stay involved. That’s why we we want to try and work with them as a company—to partner up somehow, in some way. So Terroni can give back to a good social cause.

3. What’s your favourite meal that Cosi cooks at home?Cosimo doesn’t cook all the time but when he does go into the kitchen he puts so much love and passion into it that he always pulls out something good. It doesn’t matter if you have a full fridge or an empty fridge, something good results. But I do have a few favourite things: one is a spelt risotto and he prepares it like a risotto alla trevigiana, which is with radicchio and scamorza. It’s so good, crunchy and chewy. The other thing is linguine with clams.

4. What are you most looking forward to in 2013? For me, and this is something that’s always on my mind, it’s just trying to be better: a better role model for my kids, and for my husband as well. I always hope that through my actions and through my way of being that they are inspired to be decent people, considerate people, giving people, and to be concerned and to con-tribute back. I like to be a great friend to them—not to be best buddies, mind you—but to be able to give them meaningful advice and guide them through their life decisions because now they are becoming teenagers. So for me, this is my main mission these days: to show them, by example, how to be decent. This is something that I do with my kids, but I also try to do with my hus-band and with my friends. [Pause] Basically, I like to

give advice to people! [laughing]. So that’s what I’m focused on…more on the human side of things and less involved with business.

5. What are you least looking forward to?Many times, because of the restaurants and our big family, our lives get so stressful and hectic. So I want to step away from that level of stress that makes you walk away from enjoying life. So I’m really hoping that won’t happen in 2013. To stay in peace and harmony, for a little while at least.

6. You have four kids. Which one is your favourite?What he said.

by Jessica Allen

photos by Stephanie Palmer

SHE, ELENA DI MARIA, IS THE PUBLISHER, THE MUSCLE AND THE BRAWN BEHIND THIS MAGAZINE. AND THEY ARE MARRIED.

19

Good old Le Marche…you know, that wine region you’ve

never heard of? Perhaps juicy, life-altering, ode-worthy porchetta (stuffed suckling pig) might ring a bell, but the still-slightly-eso-teric oenological offerings of this unassum-ing area smack dab in the middle of Italy’s Adriatic coastline remain to be discov-ered by the masses. The region serves as a bridge between the north and the south, melding together the influences from either end of the country to produce a freakishly good hybrid. History’s biggest conquerors knew the value of this sweet spot and the area passed through the hands of everyone from the Greeks to the papacy to Napoleon himself. These days Le Marche stays out of the limelight and focuses its energy on pro-ducing quality wine with a few key grape varietals.

Verdicchio is undoubtedly the most sought after white wine from the area. This mineral-driven, stainless-steel-fermented white is punctuated with notes of sour ap-ple, fresh pine needles, and almond skin, creating a quality that is unmistakably ver-dicchio. The two DOCs that produce this white can essentially be classified as either Gossip Girl character Blair Waldorf or a Ser-ena van der Woodsen: Verdicchio dei Cas-telli di Jesi DOC, located at a lower altitude near the sea, makes the plusher, loose-knit version, while the mountainous area of Ver-dicchio di Metalica DOC is more austere with firmer structure. Either one would be a great choice for a summer BBQ, just de-pends on which Gossip Girl you like best.

Though more of a rarity, Banchello del Metauro IGT, produced with a grape of the same name, also deserves some recogni-tion. Hailing from the northern coast, this refreshing and aromatic wine has notes of peach, herbs and melon, rounding off with a zesty finish. In fact, this ancient wine is so good that it helped the Romans defeat

Hannibal’s brother, Hasdrubal, in 207 B.C.: his army got so drunk off the local refresh-ment that they were all either cut down in battle or where they happened to pass out.

The reds of the area are focused on the sangiovese and montepulciano grapes, with the latter taking centre stage. Rosso Pi-ceno DOC is a blend of the two and makes a lovely medium-bodied wine driven by juicy red fruit, likened to a softer version of Chi-anti. The dry maritime climate and lime-stone soils of Le Marche prove to be the perfect breeding ground for montepulcia-no, as seen with the two most sought-after production areas: Rosso Cònero DOC and the Cònero DOCG. Both are made primar-ily of the montepulciano grape and with their tannins and firmer structure they even rival montelpulcianos coming out of Abru-zzo. Grab a fireplace and a bearskin rug and you’re golden.

So, now you know, and there are no excuses for not drinking these little gems. Get your Le Marche fix at Terroni from pro-ducer Claudio Morelli. His Bianchello del Metauro and Suffragium (a red wine made from the aleatico grape) will knock your socks off. Just don’t do like Hasdrubal and company did, okay? Okay.

La Vigna Terrazze Bianchello 2011This lively white comes alive on the nose with notes of candied pineapple, Meyer lemon, and chalky minerality. On the pal-ate, the Bianchello is bright and refreshing, with ample citrus and a creamy lingering finish. Drink Now!

Suffragium Marche IGT Rosso 2008This dark and brooding red is full of blue-berry and plum notes, with hints of nut-meg and dried herbs. In the mouth this medium-bodied wine sings with its smooth, fine-grained tannins and its plush lingering finish. Drink now!

TASTING LE MARCHE

TERRONI WINE PRO GIANNA SAMI LIGHTS UP LE MARCHE

② The city of Urbino in Le Marche is the birthplace of two Italian Renaissance gi-ants: Raphael and Bramante, not to mention home to one of the greatest patrons of the arts, Federico da Mon-telfeltro, Duke of Urbino. Duke Federico left such a mark on his hometown—his palace in the centrepiece of the old city centre is recog-nized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site—that the townsfolk still hold a yearly festival in his honor.

① Le Marche’s name is derived from the Frankish word for “frontier,” on ac-count of the region being the boundary between papal and imperial lands.

③ Attention opera lov-ers: the city of Pesaro in Le Marche is the home of Gioachino Rossini, of The Barber of Seville fame. If football is more your speed, then get this: Massimo Ambrosini, the 35-year-old midfielder and captain of AC Milan, is also a native of Pesaro.

20

CLASSIC LOOKS, FROM A PRETTY DARN CLASSY CREW

TERRONI-ST YLE

Photographs by Stephanie Palmer Edited by Cindy Galvao

①  Coloured denim, a little unexpected: the perfect way to stand out from the masses.

②  Borrowed from the boys, a button-down shirt dresses up jeans in an instant. And keeping it fitted or in a soft fabric helps it from actually looking like you took it from a guy.

③  The skater dress is an outfit in itself. But edge it up with ankle boots and a red lip.

④  When in doubt, side braids and side parts. Much more unex-pected than a ponytail and, dare I say it, sexier?

①① ②

③ ④ ④

21

THE ADELAIDE STAFF IN ALL THEIR SARTORIAL SPLENDOUR

TERRONI-ST YLE

⑤  Blazers don't have to be conservative. Choose a pattern or un-expected colour, roll the sleeves, add a fun pocket square and make it fresh.

⑥  Mix and match your patterned pieces: the bolder and bright-er, the better

⑦  Boys in stripes. Is this Adelaide's answer to Queen St.'s plaid?⑧  Cuff your jeans, show off those boots, socks or ankles. It's one

of those things that takes an outfit from average to interesting.

⑤ ⑥

⑧ ⑧ ⑧

⑦

22PAST TENSE / FUTURE TENSE

September① Terroni participated in the all-night post-modern art-a-palooza Nuit Blanche! Their installation: pasta making, of course—the most appetite-curbing of all the arts.

② Ben Affleck’s Oscar heavyweight Argo hosted their premiere party during TIFF. A-list guests, like Jennifer Garner, John Goodman and Alan Arkin, revelled into the wee hours of the morning. Bryan Cranston showed everyone how a suit is meant to be worn, and John Krasinski adorably piggy-backed wife Emily Blunt to their car after-wards. Ben and Matt (Damon) won cutest BFF award, obviously.

October③ LA Weekly honoured Max Stefanelli of Terroni Los Angeles with the award for Best Wine Program 2012, praising Stefanelli for his celebration of Italian wines, and his de-votion to standouts from other nations.

× Two much-loved Toronto restaurants run by Terroni alumni, Ursa and Grand Electric, make enRoute’s best new restau-rant list

WHERE WE’RE GOING (AND WHERE WE’VE BEEN)

November× Writer Meagan Albrechtson, who also serves at Queen Street, launched her very own online magazine, Lolita, which is “aimed as an outlet for like-minded women to share, vent, learn, and be entertained.” With everything from essays on modern quarter-life crises and how-tos on how to butcher a chicken, we say, Brava! And mis-sion accomplished.

× Queen Street server Mark Venturi di-rected a hauntingly beautiful music video that looks like a moving Caravaggio paint-ing set in and around Toronto’s west end for Canadian composer and musician Tim Isherwood.

④ Carvinea (the Pugliese winery owned by the publisher’s father) won Tre Bicchieri (three glasses, the highest nod) from Gam-bero Rosso for their 2008 Frauma and 2009 Sierma.

× Osteria Ciceri e Tria gets a nod in the CNN Insider Guide: Best of Toronto, where it is described as “Best of Toronto done right, comfort food drenched in olive oil best ac-companied by a glass or two of wine.” It shared the honour with Black Hoof, Canoe and Acadia.

⑤ Canadian fashion legend Jeanne Beker knows good style and it shows. When she spotted our striking Price Street hostess Igho Diana Itebu and was “bowled over by her hairstyle,” she profiled the fascinating Nigerian native in her Toronto Star column.

× James Taylor—the Terroni Price St. mix-ologist, not the singer—was asked by The Globe and Mail to come up with a holiday cocktail and they made a video out of it. The result? Taylor twisted up the classic Snowball.

23 PAST TENSE / FUTURE TENSE

By Taylor Dickie

December× After six years of serving at Terroni, Hana Lukac retired her apron and set off on a Balinese adventure in April, 2011. Since then, she’s pursued yoga full-time, teaching in Belgrade, Oslo, Bournemouth and Den-pasar. In December 2012 she returned to the Queen St. W. neighbourhood and opened Mula Yoga—a spacious and bright studio where practitioners and the curious can hear underground music and explore new positions. In Sanskrit Mula denotes base, source and foundation—and the studio has become something of a foundation in the neighbourhood since it opened its doors.Visit Mulayoga.ca to find out more.

January⑥ Terroni got a shout-out in Where Chefs Eat, a beautiful 633-page Phaidon book that details restaurants around the world frequented by world-famous chefs. Claudio Aprile of Colborne Lane’s go-to comfort meal? Insalata Nizzarda and Pizza Mari-nara.

February⑦ The Osteria launches its prix fixe lunch. At $20 for an antipasto, primo or secondo, plus a dolce, it’s got to be the best deal in town.

× Brazilian songstress Luanda Jones, the always-smiling hostess at Adelaide, par-ticipated in the Queen’s Diamond Jubilee, where she was honoured for her contribu-tion to the Brazilian music scene in Toronto.

× All-star Queen Street server Jill Riley—and accomplished filmmaker—got herself a coveted spot at the Banff Centre for the Women in the Director’s Chair workshop.

March× Genna Gingerich, one of our favourite cooks, showcases her cakes, cookies, and other delights at 101 Markets in Toronto’s Junction every third Sunday of the month. Look for her “Club Sandwich” booth among the vintage and antique vendors.

April× VinItaly, the annual international cel-ebration of Italian wines, will take place in Verona from April 7-10 and we’ve got an ace Terroni team of five assembled on the ground. Their mission? To track down new and interesting wines that will eventually end up on our wine lists back home and at our wine agency, Cavinona.

May/June⑧ Our new bakery, Sud Forno, opens up a couple of doors east from Terroni on Queen. Ciabatta for all!

May⑨ Terroni LA 2.0! Our second location—a beautiful 6,000 sq. feet inside an historic building in the heart of downtown—opens on the 14th.

OngoingJust Funnin’, a weekly event hosted by DJ Edwin Hubble (Bettola and Osteria’s bar manager extraordinaire Chris Evans) takes place every Monday at Handlebar in Kens-ington Market. Check it out for all your funk, soul, R&B and post-disco synth pop needs! 159 Augusta Ave.

Coming In 2014Stephen Alexander, the former cover model of this magazine, not to mention the owner of Cumbrae Farms…okay, and our fantastic butcher, will open up a new location right be-side our bakery, Sud Forno, on Queen St. W.

24SAPEVI CHE by Rick & Sandra Kang

Some say I was named after Windisch-Graetz,

an Austrian general...

Ok, Vincisgrassi. We know you’re a lasagna from Le Marche with suspicious

origins, packin’ pork, mushrooms, tomato… and full of bechamel and truffles. But

where’d you really come from?

…stationed in Ancona* battling Napoleon in 1799.

Sure, that sounds

convincing…

‘cept Windisch-Graetz would’ve been

12 at the time…

...about a “salza per il princigras” - a cream sauce

with truffles and prosciutto.

What the heck is

princigras?

It means “fat for the

prince”…

So we both got truffles and similar

names. So what?

So this: about 100 years later, in the Cuoco Perfetto

Marchigiano…

…is a recipe for visgras - layered

like lasagna…

...and gatto alla misgrasse - an

elaborate baked dish with vincisgrassi

sauce.

Huh?!Now I’m

confused.Yeah!

me, too.

What it means is that you’re older

than you think…

And still part of the rich traditions of Le Marche - especially

in Macerata.

That’s it! I’ve had enough!

Had enough?

Almost…

’

*Ancona is the capital of marche

’

A comic by rick & sandra Kang

All I knows is Antonio Nebbia wrote

Cuoco maceratese in 1781…