sustained elegance (1) • most of the fabrics for garments are composed of various sources of...
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Traditional Way of Recycling Kimono may give a hint how to close a loop of fashionable life.
SUSTAINED ELEGANCE
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Gal (Sexy girl) Onei (Elegant sis)
Lolita (Pretty girl)
Individualistic Ageha(Butterfly)
2006
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KERA, March 2011CanCam, April 2011
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2017
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Main culture, pop culture and sub-culture
Sub-Culture(Lower Class)
Pop Culture(Middle Class)
Main Culture(Upper Class)
Popularization
Resistance
Dress up
Dress downSophisticated
play
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17A.D. 17A.D.
16A.D.
17A.D.
16A.D.
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19 A.D.Design attributed to Okyo Maruyama
(1733-1795)
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19 A.D.
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Edo Period Momoyama Period
1850- 1750- -1750 1688-1703 1673-1687 1658-1672 -1600 1600-1500
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Almost 100 % of the fabric is used.
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At most, 80 % ofthe fabric is used.
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Dress-up Shape a body
Wear Komono Wrap a body
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Mid-19 century
End-19 century
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高麗格子
斧琴菊三枡繋ぎ 三津五郎縞鎌輪ぬ
菊五郎格子 市村格子 亀蔵小紋
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SUSTAINABILITY• Reduce
• Reuse
• Recycle
1.Reduce2.Reuse3.Recycle
Material RecycleChemical RecycleThermal Recycle
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REUSE• The garments are composed of many parts made of various fibers, which are sewn together.
• By taking off sewn threads, each part of a garment is separated into respective pieces.
• Some pieces could be reused.
• Sewing thread which will be dissolved in hot water (over 130C) could be available.
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RECYCLE• Most of the fabrics for garments are composed of various sources of fibers, but cotton and polyester share over 80 % of
fabric resources.
• A priority is thus given to recycle cotton and polyester.
• No fiber-to-fiber recycling process is available.
• A hydrothermal process is capable of separating cotton/PET blends and recovering PET fiber without deterioration.
• This new hydrothermal process is considered as the intermediate between reuse and material recycling. No further chemical process is needed for recovered PET.
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FABRICS FOR MEN’S WEAR IN 2009
44.6
03.3
48.2
03.9
38.8
21.8
13.9
6.94
35.6
17.821.8
13.9
6.94
35.6
0
10
20
30
40
50
60
Cotton Wool Polyester Polyester/cotton Polyester/wool Others
%
Men's shirts Men's pants Men's jackets
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HOW TO LOOP• Designers’ challenge for easy recycling by standardizing each element composing a garment.
• A new design could be made by a variety of combination of elements.
• Sewing could be made by hot-water (over 130C) soluble thread.
• Collected old clothes are separated to respective elements, some of which could be reused for a new design.
• The rest could be recycled by a hydrothermal process and recovered PET be processed into yarn.
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THANK YOU FOR YOUR ATTENTION