sustainable fur production technology
TRANSCRIPT
Sustainable Fur Production Technology
Xavier Casadesús (Stahl ibérica)
Challenges for Fur industry
Innovative and high performance
Sustainable and environmental
friendly ZDHC/MRSL
End consumer needs
Fashion & Function
§ Overview Stahl
§ Sustainability @Stahl
§ Sustainability fur production
§ Probiotics for Beamhouse
§ Stahl EasyWhite Tan™ § Fur dyeing process
Agenda/content
A brief history
Worldwide coverage ■ One headquarters ■ 9 R&D centers ■ 11 Manufacturing sites ■ 38 Application labs in 23 countries ■ 1800+ Employees
Stahl Business Services
Wet-End
Stahl Campus®
Automotive Leather
Chemicals
PielColor Polymers Performance Coatings
Central General Services
Stahl Management Team
Leather Finish
Design Studio®
Stahl Services and Business Units
Sustainability @Stahl
The most common definition of the Brundtland Commission describes Sustainability development as: “ Development which meets the needs of current generations without compromising the ability of future generations to meet their own needs”
Definition Sustainability
To become a more sustainable society we must eliminate our contributions to...
the systematic increase of concentrations of substances extracted from the Earth's crust (for example: heavy metals and fossil fuels)
the systematic increase of concentrations of substances produced by society (for example: plastics, dioxins, PCBs and DDT)
the systematic physical degradation of nature and natural processes (for example: over harvesting forests, destroying habitat and overfishing)
conditions that systematically undermine people’s capacity to meet their basic human needs (for example: unsafe working conditions and not enough pay to live on)
The 4 system conditions by The Natural Step
“For Stahl ‘Sustainability’ is not a department or a project, but a mentality. We want to make our products and services ‘future-proof’ to meet future wishes and requirements of our customers. Stahl’s answer is to be pro-active, outperform legislation and stimulate transparency and collaboration in the supply chain.”
The 6 steps of the lifecycle
Raw Materials
Production at Stahl
Packaging and Distribution
Product Application at Stahl customers
Product Use and Maintenance
End of Life
1 >
2 >
3 >
4 >
5 >
6 >
Sustainable Fur Production Technology
Target: Sustainable fur production
Sustainable and innovative Solutions by Stahl
Final product quality:
§ Probiotics® products § Stahl EasyWhite Tan™ § Mordanting § Oxidation dyes
Metal content. Chromium VI
Formaldehyde content
Solvents.
Waste water. COD, DOD. Reduction Salt content, NPO,…
Amine legislation. Disperse dyes.
Ageing properties. Physical properties.
Smell and whiteness of leather ….
Main enviromental questions:
Fur production
Dressing
Kicking
Killing
Dyeing
Soaking
Degreasing
Mordanting
Pickling
Stahl innovations
Mechanicals
Beamhouse
Dressing
Dyeing
Probiotics
EasyWhite Tan™
Friendly dyeing
Probiotics products for Beamhouse
Based on probiotic technology:
Technical Fundamentals
A natural technology with beneficial, healthy, and effective live microorganisms.
■ Proviera® leather biochemicals are metabolites derived from a proprietary fermentation and formulation technology using probiotic cultures and natural raw ingredients.
■ The products are not enzyme-based.
Technical Fundamentals
Probiotics Natural raw ingredients
Metabolites Fermentation
Technical Fundamentals
Chemical synthesis ▪ Traditional ▪ Carbon footprint; greenhouse effect ▪ Regulations (REACh) ▪ Dependence from crude oil industry ▪ Single chemical substances
Biochemicals from probiotics ▪ Innovative ▪ From a natural process ▪ Non-toxic; non-corrosive; non-hazardous ▪ 100% from renewable/sustainable sources ▪ Biochemical consortia
Product Range ProDegreaze™ Effects:
§ Solubilization fats § Degrease auxiliary
Operations:
§ Presoaking fatty fur skins § Degreasing
ProSoak ™ Effects:
§ Soaking fresh skins/hydrating Operations:
§ Main soaking, esp. fresh skins
ProSpread ™ Effects:
§ Dispersing organic material § Dispersing process chemicals § Cleaning
Operations:
§ Pre soaking, esp. dry skins § Retanning, fatliquoring, dying
DRY
On the environment: ▪ Reduced need for chemical consumption → lower carbon footprint, fewer
greenhouse emissions
▪ Lower effluent loads (COD,BOD, total and ammonia nitrogen, toxicity…)
▪ No VOC and no hazardous-concerning substances
▪ Lower waste water treatment cost
Value Proposition/Conclusions
On the Leather Quality:
▪ Reduction of smell. Not looseness of hair/ wool.
▪ Bactericide free process.
Stahl EasyWhite Tan™ (EWT)
2005
2012 - onwards
2007 - 2008
2009 - 2010
2010 - 2011
2006
§ Kickoff project
§ First trials run at laboratory stage give promising results § Further application test and formulation development
§ Test and production at several tanneries world wide, for all type of leathers
§ In vitro test follow by patch test in Europe and the US to test allergically reactions
§ REACh registration for over 100 tons/year
§ Full focus on article development and waste water treatment in cooperation with a European tannery
§ First production batch run for automotive leathers
§ Intensive research on health and safety, regarding the product it self and applications
§ Focus on internal application test and article development § Entry in to force REACh – pre registration 1 Dec 2008
Our Milestone in EasyWhite Tan development
Enviromental Advantages
Cleaner effluent. Less salt content.
Tannery Sustainability Physical properties Ageing properties
OEM/Brands Consumers concern about metal-, formaldehyde- and aldehyde-free Environmental awareness
End User
New sustainable metal and formaldehyde free leather.
Leather Advantages
Formaldehyde free
More fibers per square mm
White leathers
Metal free system
Tear strengths
High exhaustion rate diminishes any risk of remaining § > 98% rate § Low remaining active substance concentration
Risk assessment – Residual Tanning float
In Vitro analysis of the pro-sensitising potential on human dendritic: Residual tanning bath
Granofin Easy F-90 doesn't affect in this in vitro model the investigated markers expression in immunocompetent cells and hence it doesn't show any stimulating potential on the immune cellular response.
ü EU In Vitro analysis of the pro-sensitising potential on human dendritic: negative
ü EU 24h skin contact with 20 people: negative
ü USA: patch test to facilitate the detection of the irritation and sensitizing on human skin, 5 weeks with 120 people: negative
Test of crust on human skin
Environmental friendly fur dyeing
Mordanting avoiding dangerous metal complex ■ To improve fastness properties and shade depth a metal salt
mordant is applied before dyeing.
Fur Dyeing
Ecological mordant with iron and copper system proposal by Stahl it is a ecological solution to avoid dangerous metal. At the same time keeping most of the requests from the final conssumer.
Color formation happens upon mixture and involves complex reactions between precursors in the presence of an oxidizing agent . The precursors can be classified into two categories: oxidation basis or primary intermediaries, and the couplers or reaction modifiers . Stahl oxidation dyes. New developments of oxidation dyes to reduce the toxicity categorization in application.
Fur Dyeing
Environmental Compliance is a Key Differentiating Factor for Stahl
Stahl R&D is committed to environmental compliance, supporting tanneries and luxury goods businesses
Key Sustainability Issues For Tanneries
Waste / water management
Reduce emissions / discharge
Energy efficiency
Recycling materials Product innovation Chemical responsibility
Water-based systems
Thank you for your attention